Next Steps in Shuttle Tatting with Marilee Rockley
MATERIALS, TOOLS & RESOURCES
MATERIALS
• Lizbeth crochet cotton thread,
size 10, at least three different
colors
• Toho large hole seed beads,
size 11, one package
• Seed beads, size 8, one
package
• 1 round bead, 8 mm
• 1 round bead, 6 mm
• 5 bicone or round beads, 6 mm
TOOLS & NOTIONS
• Tatting shuttles, any kind, at
least three
• Narrow Celtic tatting shuttle
• Small sharp scissors
• Steel crochet hooks, size 12 (1
mm) and size 14 (0.75 mm)
• Wide-eye or collapsible-eye
beading needle
• Embroidery needle to sew in
ends, size 3
• 7 jump rings, 6 mm - 7 mm
• 7 jump rings, 4 mm
• 2 jewelry pliers (chain nose)
• Satin ribbon, 10 yards, 1/8" wide
• Necklace chain (optional), 3
yards
• 6 necklace clasps (if using chain)
• Toggle clasp, 10 mm
• Small paper clips
© Craftsy
RESOURCES
Books
• Celtic Tatting Knots and
Patterns by Rozella F. Linden
(Handy Hands, Inc., 2003)
• Tatting Artistry in Thread
by Helma Siepmann (Lacis
Publications, 2004): Shows
the encapsulation technique
• Tatting Adventures with Beads,
Shuttle, and Needle by Judith
Connors (Lacis Publications,
2000)
• Just For Fun Tatted Jewelry
by Iris Niebach (Self Published,
2008)
• Tatting Jewellery by Lyn
Morton (Guild of Master
Craftsman, 2010)
• Marilee’s Beaded Tatting
Finery by Marilee Rockley (Self
Published, 2014)
• Viktorianisches Occhi (Books
On Demand, 2009): German
tatting book of Victorian
patterns, as well as several
for Maltese and pearl tatting;
clearly diagrammed
CONTINUED > 1
 Next Steps in Shuttle Tatting with Marilee Rockley
Websites
• hhtatting.com: Supplies,
including Celtic shuttles
• tattingcorner.com: Supplies,
including Celtic shuttles
• be-stitched.com: Supplies
and free patterns
• lacis.com: Supplies for
lacemaking, including tatting
• roseground.com: Supplies,
including Celtic shuttles;
located in the U.K.
• tatting.co.uk/products.htm:
Supplier located in the U.K.
© Craftsy
MATERIALS, TOOLS & RESOURCES
• craftree.com: Forum to Marilee Rockley’s Sites
connect with other tatters • yarnplayertats.blogspot.com
• janeeborall.freeservers. com: • facebook.com/yarnplayer
Excellent tutorials and patterns • yarnplayer.etsy.com
by Jane Eborall • youtube.com/user/yarnplayer
• tattingcentral.com: Guide to • flickr.com/photos/yarnplayer
tatting designers, suppliers and • twitter.com/marileerockley
guilds
• georgiaseitz.com: Techniques,
including Spanish tatting
• bellomodo.com: Bead shop;
source of Toho large hole seed
beads (size 11)
2
Next Steps in Shuttle Tatting with Marilee Rockley

I M A G E G O E S H E R E

Patterns, Instructions
& Diagrams
© Craftsy
3
Shell Pendant by Marilee Rockley
This design uses Catherine Wheel joins for a smooth outlining
curve.

Techniques used: chain, floating ring, picot, bead in center of

self-closing mock ring, Catherine Wheel join, bead on core
thread.

Supplies needed for one pendant:

 2 tatting shuttles
 Size 10 Lizbeth thread, about 5 yards
 Steel crochet hook about size 14/0.75 for
joins
 7 seed beads size 8°
 1 round bead, 6mm
 1 jump ring, 6mm to 7mm
 Jewelry pliers to attach the jump ring
 Wide eye beading needle to string beads
 Embroidery needle to sew in ends
 Ribbon or chain for wearing finished
pendant
Abbreviations:
Ch chain
Preparation: CWJ Catherine Wheel join
ds double stitch
String seven size 8° seed beads onto the thread before winding the shuttles. Wind 3
FR floating ring
yards onto Sh2, then cut about 2 yards from the ball and wind Sh1, putting all the LJ lock join
beads on Sh1, keeping the beads a few turns back on the shuttle, so they’ll stay out of + join
your way until needed. - picot
Center: R ring
Begin with SCMR, leaving a large loop at the RW reverse work
beginning. SCMR self-closing mock ring
Sh1 shuttle 1
SCMR 10 ds, slip 6mm bead over beginning loop
Sh2 shuttle 2
and put Sh1 through loop. Put a paper clip ( ) repeat instructions for
between the tatting and the bead as a space number of times given
saver, and then pull loop up snug to bead.

Resume SCMR (continuing around other side of bead) with 10 ds. Pull SCMR up snug,
then remove paper clip and join to base of bead using a normal down join (not a lock
join) to give a smooth swirl to the curve.
Do not RW.

Chain with floating rings:

Note: the floating rings are made using
Sh2.
Ch 7. FR 3 - 3.
Ch 3. FR 4 - 4.
Ch 4. FR 5 - 5.
Ch 4. FR 6 - 6.
Ch 4. FR 7 - 7.
Ch 4. FR 8 - 8.
4
Continuing chain with core beads:
Ch 4 ds, very small picot, 2 ds, core bead, 2 ds.
(Ch core bead, 2 ds) 4 times.
FR 8.
Ch core bead, 2 ds, core bead, 1 ds.

Catherine Wheel joins:

Note: I did not include the CWJ in the stitch count. Count the ds
only.

CWJ to picot of nearest FR.

Ch 4. CWJ to next FR.
Ch 6. CWJ to next FR.
Ch 8. CWJ to next FR.
Ch 9. CWJ to next FR.
Ch 10. CWJ to next FR.

Ending off:
Ch 10. Tie to the very
small picot, sew in
thread ends, and cut.

Finishing:
Block the tatting with
steam. Use jewelry
pliers to attach jump
ring to top tatted ring,
and add a ribbon or
necklace chain for
wearing as a pendant.

5
Daisy Picot “Key” by Marilee Rockley
The directions are for a pendant, but this design would also work well for
earrings. Size 20 thread can be used with the same beads for daintier
results.

Techniques used: ring, picot, chain, join, lock join, bead picot, daisy picot.

Supplies needed for one pendant:

 2 tatting shuttles
 Size 10 Lizbeth thread, 2 colors, about 2 yards each color
 Steel crochet hook about size 12/1.00mm for joins
 26 Toho large hole seed beads size 11°
 1 jump ring, 6mm to 7mm
 Jewelry pliers to open and close the jump ring
 Wide eye beading needle to string beads
Abbreviations:
 Ribbon or chain for wearing finished pendant
bp bead picot
Ch chain
Preparation: ds double stitch
Shuttle 1 (dark thread): String 22 beads onto the thread (I used DDS daisy double stitch
Lizbeth Charcoal #606) and then wind Sh1 with about 2 yards. Keep FR floating ring
the beads just a few turns back on the shuttle, so they’ll stay out of + join
your way until needed. Then, cut the thread from the ball. - picot
LJ lock join
Shuttle 2 (light thread): The 2nd color will be for the daisy picots (I
R ring
used Lizbeth English Rose #700). String 4 beads and wind Sh2 with
RW reverse work
about 2 yards in the same way. Cut the thread from the ball.
Sh1 shuttle 1
Sh2 shuttle2
{} daisy picots in between the brackets

Center ring with daisy picots:

Hint for hiding ends: Hide the light thread tail under a few DDS as you
make them. The dark thread tail can be hidden in the outer round.

R 2ds, {5DDS} (Photo A),

2ds (Photo B), {4DDS - 4DDS}, 2ds, {5DDS - 5DDS},
3ds, slide a bead from Sh2 into place, {5DDS - 1DDS, 4ds (Photo C),
1DDS - 5DDS}, 3ds, slide a bead from Sh2 into place (Photo D),
{5DDS - 5DDS}, 2 ds, {4DDS - 4DDS}, 2ds, {5DDS}, 2ds, close ring.
Do not RW.

6
 Outer round:
Switch shuttles (light thread will now be Sh1).
Ch 12ds. LJ to nearest picot, bp with 3 beads (Photo E).
Ch 6ds. LJ to next picot, bp with 3 beads.
Ch 5ds. LJ to next picot, bp with 3 beads.

Lower part:
Ch 6ds. Do not RW.
Ring with daisy picots: Slide up 2 beads from Sh1 into the
working circle before starting to tat the ring.
R 2ds, {6DDS}, 2ds, {3ds, bp, 3ds} (Photo F), 2ds,
{5DDS, FR (slide up 3 beads from Sh2 into the working circle), 4ds,
bp with 3 beads in the picot and 1 bead on the core thread (Photo
G), 4ds, close the FR, 5DDS}
2ds (Photo H), {3ds, bp, 3ds}, 2ds, {6DDS}, 2ds, close ring.
Ch 6ds.
LJ to next picot of center, bp with 3 beads.

Continue outer round:

Ch 5ds. LJ to next picot, bp with 3 beads.
Ch 6ds. LJ to next picot, bp with 3 beads.
Ch 12ds. LJ before 1st chain of outer round.

Top ring:
R 12ds, close ring.

Finishing:
Sew in any remaining thread
ends. Block the tatting with
steam. Use jewelry pliers to
attach jump ring to top tatted
ring, and add to a ribbon or
necklace chain for wearing as a
pendant.

7
Maltese Ring “Echo” by Marilee Rockley
The directions are for a pendant, but this design would also work well for
earrings. Size 20 thread can be used with the same beads for daintier
results.

Techniques used: ring, picot, chain, join, lock join, bead picot, bead on
core thread, maltese ring.

Supplies needed for one pendant:

 2 tatting shuttles
 Size 10 Lizbeth thread, 2 colors, about 2 yards each color
 Steel crochet hook about size 12/1.00mm for joins
 25 Toho large hole seed beads size 11°
 1 jump ring, 6mm to 7mm
 Jewelry pliers to attach the jump ring
 Wide eye beading needle to string beads
 Ribbon or chain for wearing finished pendant

Preparation:
Abbreviations:
Shuttle 1 (light thread): This color will form the outside of the central maltese ring,
Ch chain
and will carry the beaded picot of the smaller maltese ring at the bottom. String all
ds double stitch
25 beads onto this thread and wind Sh1 with about 2 yards. Keep the beads just a
few turns back on the shuttle, so they’ll stay out of your way until needed. Cut the + join
- picot
thread from the ball.
LJ lock join
R ring
Shuttle 2 (dark thread): This color will form the inside of the central maltese ring,
RW reverse work
and the chains of the outer round. Wind Sh2 with about 2 yards. Then, cut the
Sh1 shuttle 1
thread from the ball.
Sh2 shuttle2
Maltese Ring:
Form the working circle for the ring (ring thread) with Sh1, and tat 1 ds. Then move the ring thread aside, and wrap the
core thread (Sh1) over your hand.

Pick up Sh2 and work 2 unflipped ds on the core thread,

making the stitch halves in reverse order (2nd half, then 1st
half).

Pick up Sh1 and tat 2 ds normally.

Continue alternating sets of 2 ds from each shuttle in this

manner, until you have 4 picots on the inside.

Small inner ring:

Remove the current working circle from your hand, and turn
work over to tat the inner ring. Using Sh2, tat 7 ds, close inner ring. Then turn work and put the working circle for the
maltese ring onto your hand.
Continue alternating sets of 2 ds from each shuttle until you have 4 more picots on the inside (not counting the picot
that the inner ring comes from). Finish by tatting 1 ds with Sh1, and then put Sh2 through the ring from top to bottom.
Close the maltese ring. Do not RW.

8
 Outer round:
(Tip: thread ends can be tatted over in this next chain.)

Ch 9 ds. LJ to 2nd outer picot of the maltese ring.

Ch 7 ds, [slide a bead up from Sh1, 1 ds] 3 times. RW.

R 4ds, skip 1 picot and join to next outer picot of maltese ring, 4 ds, close ring.
Ch 1 ds, [slide a bead up from Sh1, 1 ds] 6 times. RW.

R 8 ds, join to next outer picot of maltese ring, 1 ds, join to next picot, 8 ds, close
ring. RW.

Maltese ring at bottom, with outward

facing picots:
Form the working circle for the ring with Sh2, and
beginning with Sh2, tat 1 ds.
(Tip: pick up Sh1 from under the working circle
when starting this maltese ring, for a neater
finish.)
With Sh1 make 1 unflipped ds, but this time work
in the usual order of 1st half followed by 2nd half.
Continue alternating 1 ds from each shuttle 4
times, keeping all the stitches facing to the
outside, ending with Sh1 (light thread).

Beaded picot:
Slide up 7 beads into the next picot.
Continue the maltese ring alternating 1 ds from each shuttle 4 more times,
keeping all the stitches facing to the outside.
Finish with 1 ds with Sh2, then close the ring.

Continuing outer round:

With Sh1, LJ into the space at the base of the bottom maltese ring.
Ch 1 ds, [slide a bead up from Sh1, 1 ds] 6 times. RW.
R 4ds, join to next outer picot of maltese ring, 4 ds, close ring. RW.
Ch 1 ds, [slide a bead up from Sh1, 1 ds] 3 times, 7 ds. Skip 1 picot and LJ to
next outer picot of maltese ring.
Ch 9 ds. LJ to beginning.

Top ring: 12 ds, close ring.

Finishing:
Sew in any remaining thread ends. Block the tatting with steam. Use
jewelry pliers to attach jump ring to top tatted ring, and add to a ribbon or
necklace chain for wearing as a pendant

9
Pearl Tatted Bracelet “Meander”
By Marilee Rockley

The center of this bracelet has a doubled core thread covered with unflipped double
stitches that alternate on each side. A ring is thrown off each side and joined to the
center, creating the curves. The finished tatting measures about 6.25 inches (15.5 cm),
the clasp adds extra length.

Techniques used: ring, picot, join, bead picot, bead on core thread, pearl tatting.

Supplies:
 2 tatting shuttles
 Size 10 Lizbeth thread, about 6 yards
 Size 8° seed beads: 36 or more for a longer bracelet. Toho
large hole seed beads size 11° may be used instead.
 Steel crochet hook for the joins, about size 12/1.00mm
 Wide eye beading needle to string beads
 2 jump rings, 5mm to 6mm to attach clasp Abbreviations:
 A few jump rings 4mm to add an extender if needed ds double stitch
 Jewelry pliers to attach the jump rings R ring
 10mm toggle or clasp of your choice for fastening the Sh1 shuttle 1
bracelet Sh2 shuttle2

Preparation:
String all 36 beads onto the thread before winding the shuttles. (This is more beads than you need, just in case.)

Then, wind Sh1 with about 3 yards, and unwind another 3 yards from the ball, cut, and wind Sh2. Put half of the beads
(18) on each shuttle, keeping the beads just a few turns back so they’ll stay out of your way until needed.

Note: if you want to use 2 different colors, just wind each shuttle separately and cut from the ball.

Start: R 24 ds. Close the ring only partway for now, to leave room for adding a 3rd thread, which will become the core
for the pearl tatting.

10
Add the pearl tatting core: Cut another piece of thread from the same
ball, about 1 yard long. Fold the thread in half. Bring the folded end
over and down through the partially closed ring to form a loop. Pull
both ends of this thread down through the loop, and tighten to form a
Lark’s Head knot on the core of the ring (it will look the same as a
double stitch). Close the ring. This new thread will be the core for pearl
tatting. It is longer than needed because the extra is used to wrap
around your hand for tensioning.

Hold the doubled core thread over your hand as for tatting a chain.
Shuttle 1 is on the right. Shuttle 2 hangs to the left, over your hand
when not in use.

The shuttles will be used alternately to tat sets of unflipped double

stitches over this core.
Sh 1 will tat unflipped ds in reverse order – second half, then first half.
Sh 2 will tat unflipped ds in the normal order of first half, second half.

Pearl tat 5 sets of 2 double stitches on each side.

Ring on left: Note: Turn work as needed to tat the ring, and after the
ring always turn work to the front side to continue the pearl tatting.

Slide up 3 beads from Sh2, R 8 ds, join to the 4th pearl loop (photo A), 8
ds, bead picot with 3 beads plus 1 bead on the core of the ring (photo B),
8 ds, close ring (photo C).

Pearl tat sets of 2 double stitches until there are 4 pearl loops on each
side after the ring (photo D). Do not count the loop that the ring comes
from.

Ring on right:
Note: Turn work over as needed to tat the ring, and after the ring
always turn work to the front side to continue the pearl tatting.

Slide up 3 beads from Sh1, R 8 ds, join to the 4th pearl loop, 8 ds, bead
picot with 3 beads plus 1 bead on the core of the ring, 8 ds, close ring.

Pearl tat sets of 2 double stitches until there are 4 pearl loops on each
side after the ring. Do not count the loop that the ring comes from.

Continue in the same way, alternating sides, until the tatting is about 2
inches shorter than you want the finished bracelet to be, stopping
after a ring.

Ending off:
Pearl tat one more set of 2 double stitches on each side.
Using Sh1 and both of the core threads, tat 1 lock stitch (1st half
flipped, 2nd half unflipped). This secures the core. The tails of the core
can be hidden in the final ring.
R 24 ds, close ring. Tie, hide remaining ends, and cut. Block with steam. Using jewelry pliers, attach clasp to the ends of
the bracelet with the larger jump rings. Add smaller jump rings as needed to form an extender chain.

11
 Encapsulation
“Garden” Necklace
By Marilee Rockley

This design uses multiple threads as a core for an

encapsulated chain, with core threads being pulled out
at intervals to tat rings and more chains branching out.

Techniques used: ring, chain, picot, join, lock join,

encapsulation, folded ring, onion ring, Josephine knot,
single shuttle split ring, bead picot.

Supplies needed for one necklace:

 3 tatting shuttles
 Size 10 Lizbeth thread: 1
multicolor, 1 green, 1 dark color,
about 5 yards of each color
 Steel crochet hook about size
12/1.00mm for joins
Preparation:  7 seed beads size 8°
Wind 4 yards of green thread onto a shuttle, and leave attached to the ball.  Wide eye beading needle to
Wind 4 yards of multicolor thread onto another shuttle, and cut a half yard string beads
from the ball. String 7 seed beads onto the dark thread, then wind 3 yards  Ribbon or chain for wearing
onto another shuttle, keeping all the beads on the shuttle, and cut a half finished necklace
yard from the ball.

Start:
With green, R 18 ds, but before closing the ring attach the other 2 colors of
thread using a Lark’s head knot, as follows:

Fold the thread, bring the folded end over and down through the partially closed
ring to form a loop. Pull both ends of this thread down through the loop, and
tighten on the core of the ring (it will look the same as a double stitch). Do the
same for both the multicolor and the dark thread. Close the ring. These threads
will be the core for the encapsulated chain. Photo A.
Abbreviations:
Note: the short tails are only for getting started. After a few stitches, abandon
a first half of a double stitch
the cut ends one at a time, leaving one multicolor, one dark, and two green b
nd
2 half of a double stitch
threads to work with. Ch chain
ds double stitch
Encapsulated Chain: JK Josephine knot
Note: the term “wrap” means to make LJ lock join
unflipped double stitches over the core. + join
- picot
R ring
Using the shuttle with green thread, RW reverse work
wrap (b, a) 4 times. SSSR single shuttle split ring
vsp very small picot
Bring out a ring: / separates stitches on either
With multicolor, R 7. Photo B. side of a split ring
With green wrap (b, a) 4 times. RW. ( ) repeat instructions for
number of times given
12
Folded Ring:
With green, Folded R 7, vsp, 2 second halves, 4 - 1 - 1 - 12. RW.

Note: the very small picot is formed between the previous double stitch and
the 2 second halves. The purpose of the vsp is to provide slack so that the fold
can be made easily. The 2 second halves create a twist, so the ring will
naturally fold there. Fold the first 7 double stitches up and over, towards your
right, before closing the ring. Photo C.

Onion ring:
With multicolor, R 5 - 5. Outer R 10 + 10, joining to the picot of the previous
ring, enclosing it. Photo D.

Reversing chain:
Note: bring the shuttle under the core, to the side that you want the “caps” of
the stitches on when changing the stitch order. Changing the order makes the
chain curve in the opposite direction.
With green wrap (a, b) 4 times. Do not RW.

With green, Folded R 7, vsp, 2 second halves, 4-1-1-12.

With green wrap (a, b) 3 times. Do not RW.

Josephine knots:
Each Josephine knot is a ring made of the same half stitch repeated. Either
the 1st half or the 2nd half may be used.
With dark thread, JK 9. JK 11. JK9. Photo E.

Reversing chain:
With green wrap (b, a) 4 times. RW.

Single shuttle split ring:

With multicolor, R 4, stop, and then pull out more thread from the shuttle.
Fold that thread to form a loop. Tat 4 ds using the loop as if it were a shuttle,
flipping all the stitches normally. Photo F. Close the ring using the part of the
loop thread that tightens the ring. Put the loop over the shuttle and the ring
that you just made, and then pull the shuttle to tighten the loop around the
base of the ring.

R 14.
SSSR 4/4. RW.

13
Continuing:
With green wrap (b, a) 4 times. RW.
With green, Folded R 7, vsp, 2 second halves, 4-1-1-12, close. RW.
With green wrap (b, a) 4 times. RW.

Onion ring from back side:

With multicolor, tat onion ring using “back side” tatting (b, a):
R 5 - 5. Outer R 10 + 10 (put the inner ring on top while joining). RW.
With green wrap (b, a) 2 times.

Branching:
Using the green ball thread and the multicolor
shuttle, tat normal, flipped stitches: Ch 10 + 4 (join
to last picot of nearest folded ring). Do not RW.
With multicolor, JK 9. R 6 - 6. JK 9.
Ch 3. RW.
R 6 - 6. RW.
Change the color of the next chain by wrapping (a,
b) 6 times, picot, (a, b) 6 times.

Connecting to main chain:

Using the threads remaining in the main chain, with
green wrap (a, b) 4 times. Join to picot of previous
ring. Wrap (a, b) 4 times.
Now you have reached the other threads that you
used when branching off. Put them back into the
core of the main chain. Photo G.

Bottom center:
With green wrap (b, a) 3 times. RW.

Large Folded Ring: With green, Folded R 9, vsp, 2

second halves, 5 - 1 - 1 - 14, close. RW.
With green wrap (b, a) 2 times. RW.

Beaded flower (from back side): Using the dark

thread as shuttle 2, and green as shuttle 1, tat
flipped stitches (b,a):
SCMR 6. (Note: Tat like a chain, but pull out a loop
of the core thread when starting, for putting the
shuttle through later.)
With purple, R 6 - 6. Slide the 7 seed beads into the
working circle before beginning the next ring.
R 8 - 1 - 1 - 1 + (to picot of inner ring, keeping the inner ring on top), bead picot with all 7 beads, 1 - 1 - 1 - 8, close,
encircling the smaller ring inside. Photo H.

Resume using green as shuttle 1. Ch 6. Put shuttle through the loop that you left at the beginning, and pull to close the
SCMR. RW.

14
Half of the necklace is now completed. Photo I.
The second half has some changes to make it a mirror-image of
the first half.

With green wrap (b, a) 2 times. RW.

Large Folded Ring: (Note: the folded rings on this side of the
necklace face the opposite way.)
With green, Folded R 14 - 1 - 1 - 5, vsp, 2 first halves, 9, close,
folding towards your left, put shuttle through before closing.
Photo J. RW.

With green, wrap (b, a) 3 times.

Using the green ball thread and the multicolor on the shuttle,
wrap (a, b) 6 times. Join to picot of adjacent chain by pulling a
loop from the shuttle thread and putting the ball through.
Photo K.
Wrap (a, b) 6 times. RW, Shoelace trick.
R 6 - 6. RW.
Ch 3. Do not RW.

With multicolor, JK 9. R 6 + 6 (joining to picot of adjacent ring).

JK 9.
Ch 4 - 10.

Connecting to main chain: Using the threads remaining in the

main chain, with green wrap (a, b) 4 times.
Join to picot of adjacent ring. Photo L.
Wrap (a, b) 4 times.
Now you have reached the other threads that you used when
branching off. Put them back into the core of the main chain.

With green, wrap (b, a) 2 times. RW.

Onion ring from back side:

With multicolor, tat onion ring using “back side” tatting (b, a):
R 5 - 5. Outer R 10 + 10 (put the inner ring on top while joining).
RW.
With green, wrap (b, a) 4 times. RW.

Folded Ring: With green, Folded R 12 - 1 - 1 - 4, vsp, 2 first

halves, 7, close, folding towards your left, put shuttle through
before closing. RW.
With green, wrap (b, a) 4 times. RW.

Single shuttle split ring: With multicolor SSSR 4 / 4. R 14.

SSSR 4 / 4. RW.
With green, wrap (b,a) 4 times. Do not RW.

Josephine Knots: With dark, JK 9. JK 11. JK 9. Note: this is the

last time the dark thread will be used, so after a few more
wrapped stitches abandon the tail, to trim off later.

15
With green, wrap (a, b) 3 times. Do not RW.
Folded Ring: With green, Folded R 12, join to picot of adjacent chain, 1 - 1 - 4, vsp, 2 first halves, 7, close, folding towards
your left, put shuttle through before closing.
With green, wrap (a, b) 4 times. Do not RW.

Onion Ring (front side): With multicolor, R 5 - 5. Outer R 10 + 10, joining to the picot of the previous ring, enclosing it.
RW.

Folded Ring: With green, Folded R 12 - 1 - 1 - 4, vsp, 2 first halves, 7, close, folding towards your left, put shuttle through
before closing. RW.
With green, wrap (b, a) 4 times.

With multicolor, R 7.

With green, wrap (b, a) 4 times.

Final Ring: R 20, hiding remaining ends in this ring.

Finishing:
Block the tatting with steam. Attach your choice of ribbon, cord, or necklace chain to the first and last tatted rings to
wear as a necklace.

16
Glorious Blossom
Pendant by Marilee Rockley

This motif is completed in 3 continuous rounds.

Techniques used: ring, chain, picot, join, lock join, bead

inside ring, bead inside self-closing mock ring, bead picots,
join between beads, beads on core thread.

Supplies needed for one pendant:

 2 tatting shuttles
 Size 10 Lizbeth thread, about 9 yards
 Steel crochet hook about size 14/0.75 for
joins
 100 Toho large hole seed beads size 11°
 1 round bead, 8mm
 5 round or bicone beads, 6mm
 1 jump ring, 6mm to 7mm
 Jewelry pliers to attach the jump ring
 Wide eye beading needle to string beads
 Embroidery needle to sew in ends
 Ribbon or chain for wearing finished
pendant

Preparation: String all 100 seed beads onto the thread before winding
the shuttles. Wind 5 yards onto Sh2, then cut about 2 yards from the ball
and wind Sh1, putting 55 beads on Sh2, 45 beads on Sh1, keeping the
beads a few turns back on each shuttle, so they’ll stay out of your way until
needed.

Round 1:
(Note: the bead picots should be slightly loose, leaving a bit of room
between the beads for joining later.)
Begin with a self-closing mock ring (tatted like a chain), leaving a large loop
at the beginning.

SCMR 2 ds, bp of 3 beads and one core bead, 2 - 2, bp of 3 beads and one
core bead, 2 - 2.
Slip the 8mm bead over the starting loop (a paper clip is helpful as a space
saver between the start of the tatting and the bead). Then, put the shuttle
through the loop. Tighten the loop up snug to the bead by pulling on the
shuttle thread. (You have tatted halfway around the bead at this point.)

Resume the SCMR with bp of 3 beads and one core bead, 2 - 2, bp of 3

beads and one core bead, 2 - 2, bp of 3 beads and one core bead, 2 ds.
Pull the core thread to tighten, and then remove the paper clip and LJ to
the base of the bead.

Following that, leave space to equal the size of a picot, and LS (to form a
mock picot). Do not RW. Do not cut. Continue with round 2.

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Round 2:
*Ch 2, LJ between beads, Ch 5.

Note: Prepare for bead in center of next

FR by pulling loop of Sh2 thread through
6mm bead, then secure loop with paper
clip and tighten. Tat ring as usual,
keeping bead below work.

FR 9 - 2, remove paper clip and join

(normal join) to end of loop sticking out
of bead. Then continue FR with 2 - 9.
Close around bead.

Ch 5, LJ between beads, Ch 2. LJ to center, make a small picot. Repeat from * a total of 5 times, ending with LJ to center.
Do not RW. Do not cut. Continue with round 3.

Round 3:
Ch 9.
(Bead picot with 1 bead and one core bead, 1ds) 4 times.

LJ to picot of FR. Ch 7. LJ to next picot of FR.

(1 ds, bead picot with 1 bead and one core bead) 4 times.
Ch 9. LJ to next open picot of round 2. This completes one “petal” of the
blossom.

Repeat until all 5 petals are formed. Tie, hide ends, and cut.

Finishing:
Block the tatting with steam. Use jewelry pliers to attach
jump ring to one of the Ch 7 loops, and add a ribbon or
necklace chain for wearing as a pendant.

Abbreviations:
bp bead picot
Ch chain
ds double stitch
FR floating ring
LJ lock join
+ join
- picot
R ring
RW reverse work
SCMR self-closing mock ring
Sh1 shuttle 1
Sh2 shuttle 2
( ) repeat instructions for number
of times given

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Celtic Triangle by Marilee Rockley

This 2 sided motif is made in 4 sections. A Celtic shuttle is needed only for the 2nd section; the rest can be tatted using
any shuttle.

Techniques used: ring, picot, chain, join, Catherine Wheel join, bead picot.

Supplies needed for one pendant:

 1 Celtic tatting shuttle and 1 more
tatting shuttle, any kind
 Size 10 Lizbeth thread, 2 colors, about 8
yards each color
 Steel crochet hook about size
12/1.00mm for joins
 9 seed beads size 8°
 1 jump ring, 7mm
 Jewelry pliers to attach the jump ring
 Wide eye beading needle to string beads
 Embroidery needle to sew in ends

Center Trefoil:
String 9 beads onto the thread, and wind about 3 yards onto any shuttle, putting all the beads on the shuttle. Keep the
beads just a few turns back on the shuttle, so they’ll stay out of your way until needed. Cut the thread from the ball.

Slide up 3 beads into the working circle around hand before beginning the ring. R 15 ds, bead picot with 3 beads, 15 ds,
close ring. Repeat to make 3 rings. The rings are not joined, and there should be no gap between them.

Do NOT cut the thread; just unwind it to put onto a Celtic shuttle.

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Small interlocking rings:

A. Bring the shuttle down through the ring that

you just made from top to bottom.

B. Then down through the next ring from top to

bottom, keeping the shuttle outside of the
loop that’s forming.

C. Then again down through the first ring from

top to bottom.

Small R 8 - 8, begin closing the ring, and bring the

shuttle down through the second ring of the trefoil,
turning the motif over to finish closing the small ring.

Then turn the motif to the front to begin the 2nd small ring.

The 2nd and 3rd small rings are made the same way, except that since you’ve already done step A (when you brought the
shuttle through while closing the small ring), only steps B and C need to be done.

When all 3 small interlocking rings are done, tie, cut, and hide
ends.

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Clovers motif:
Wind about 2 yards of the 2nd color onto any shuttle, and leave
attached to the ball.

*R 4 - 2 - 2.
R 2 + 6 - 6 - 2 (join to last picot of previous ring).
R 2 + 2 - 4 (join to last picot of previous ring). RW.
Ch 14.
Repeat from * 3 times. Tie, cut, and hide ends.

Outer round:
Place the center trefoil with
interlocking rings onto the
clovers motif. Bring the rings of
the clovers motif through the
rings of the center trefoil, as
shown.

Wind about 2 yards of the 1st color onto any shuttle and leave attached to the ball -- or, if you prefer to use a 2nd shuttle,
cut an additional 2 yards from the ball and wind it onto shuttle 2.

**R 4 + 4 (to picot of small interlocking ring). RW.

Ch 7. RW.
R 4 + 4 (to same picot of small interlocking ring). RW.

Note: I did not include the CWJ in the stitch count. Count
the ds only.
Ch 11, Catherine Wheel Join (see tutorial on next page),
11 (to picot of center ring of clover). RW.

Repeat from ** 3 times.

Tie to beginning, cut, and hide ends.

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 Tip: when tatting using one shuttle and the ball thread, pass
the ball through the loop as if it were shuttle 2.

The Catherine Wheel Join (CWJ) is useful in designs that have a

smooth outlining curve. It gives the appearance of a double
stitch from both sides of the work, and allows the core thread
to slide.

Finishing:
Block the motif with steam, but to keep the 3
dimensional textures do not press. Use jewelry
pliers to attach a jump ring to center tatted ring
of any clover along with the chain of the outer
round. Add to a ribbon or necklace chain for
wearing as a pendant.

Abbreviations:
Ch chain
ds double stitch
+ join
- picot
R ring
RW reverse work
CWJ Catherine Wheel Join

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