Editor: Michael MacCaskey LOWE'S COMPANIES, INC.

Photo and Conrribwing Editor: Lynn Ocone Bob Tillman. Chairman/CEO/President

Karena Bailey, Merchandise Manager

Project Dir ector: Rene Klein Melissa S. Birdsong, Director, Trend Forecasting and Design
Robin Gelly, Merchandiser

Art Director: Bill Harvey Bob Gfeller, Senior VP, Marketing

Page Makeup: Eugenie Delaney, Michele Fairchild, Sylvie Vidrine Jean Melton, VP, Merchandising
Mike Menser, Senior vP, General Merchandise Manager

Writers: Steven Cory, Scott Gibson, Doug & Karen Jimerson, Diane Gregg Plott, Director. Marketing

Slazik, A. Cort Sinnes, Lance Walheim, Ann Whitman Dale Pond, Executive VP, Merchandising
Senior editor: Tere Drenth Mary Taylor, Marketing Manager

Consulting editor: Margaret McKinnon Amanda Dillard. Merchandising Assistant

Technical review: Denny Schrock

Indexer: Kathy Barber Be sure to visit our web site at www.lowes.com

Principal Illustrators: fuk Olson and Mark Pechenik 10 9 8 7 65 4 3 2 1

Additional Illustrations: Anthony Davis, Debra Lambert, Lois Lovejoy, First Printing January 2002
Jane McCreary, Mimi Osborne, Erin O'Toole, Lucy Sargeant, Wendy Copyright © 2002 Sunset Publishing Corporation, Menlo Park, CA
Smith-Griswold, Catherine M. Watters 94025. First edition. All rights reserved, including the right of
reproduction in whole or in part in any form. LibraI)' of Congress
Photographers: See page 432 Control Number: 2001099253. ISBN 0-376-00913-6.
Printed in the United States.
Cover design: Vasken Guiragossian
Cover photos: Top left, Susan A. Roth; Top right, Marion Brenner; Readers note: almost any do-it-yourself project involves risk of some
Middle, Karen Bussolini; Bottom left, courtesy of Southern Living; sort. Your tools, materials, and skills will vary, as will conditions at
Bottom right: Greg Ryan and Sally Beyer. Spine: Mark Rutherford. your project site. Lowe's Companies, Inc., and the editors of this book
have made every effort to be .complete and accurate in the instructions.
Production: Lory Day We will, however, assume no responsibility or liability for injuries,
damages, or losses incurred in the course of your landscaping projects.
Special thanks to Danielle Javier, Marianne Lipanovich Always follow manufacturers' operation instructions in the use of tools,
check and follow your local building codes, and observe all standard
safety precautions.
 Preface
A merica's Home Im provemenr
Warehouse, where you'll find
everyth ing you need for your land­
scaping projects, including the best
selection of planrs for your region,
i s pleased to bring you a p ractical
guide to making your garden dreams
a reality. Lowe's Complete u/I1dscaping
Book was written by landscaping
experts around the counrry. It cov­
ers the subject from top to botto m .
Whether you wanr to beautify an
underused side yard, build a deck
or privacy fence, raise award-win­
n in g roses sheltered from the kids'
play areas, or wind an inviting path
to a secluded corner of the garden,
this book will give you the tools,
tips, tricks, and techniques you
need.
With fuil-color photos and
landscape plans, you can take a n
inspiring w a l k through s o m e of
America's most beautiful home gar­
dens, borrowing a patio design
from one, a soothing fish pond
from another, and a pergola from
a third. All of the gardens i n this
book are lushly planted with a vari­
ety of ann uals, perennials, bulbs,
shrubs, vines, t rees, grasses. ground
covers, vegetables, herbs. and wild­
flowers, and all offer ideas for you r
own garden .
Every plant in this book is
idenrified by both its common and
botanical names, so it should be no
problem to spot them at your local
Lowe's n u rsery departm ent. When
you see a plant you think may be
weil suited for that hard-to-grow
shady spot b y the front door or
that sun -blasted wall next to the
barbecue, stop by and get further
advice from our gardening experts.
Our professionals are ready to
help you, whether you're planting
your first annual or designing and
building an entire patio surrounded
b y planrs. Lowe's is known across
the country for the very best selec­
tion of landscaping products-from
lumber for arbors, decks, and
fences to the tools and materials for
irrigation systems, outdoor lighting,
and do-it-yourself garden ponds.
You ' ll also find a wide variety of
pavers, concrete blocks, grilling
equipment, even outdoor furniture.
And if you want to dress up an
existing fence, trellis, or arbor, only
your imagination can limit the paint
colors we can create for you.
But even if you only stop by
for a box of galvanized nails, take
advantage of one of our learn-by­
doing classes. I f you don't have
time for a class, check out the
Lowe's web site at w\Vw.lowes.com
and click on the How-To Library
tab. Under the Outdoor Projects
category, you'll find an extensive
list of step-by-step instructions on
everyth ing from building a deck
to installing a m ailbox and main­
taining your outdoor furniture.
You'll also find a category called
Lawn & Garden that may add
a few tips to all that you find in
this book.
Lowe's is proud to assist you in
every way possible to make your
property as beautiful, unique, and
livable as it can be. Enjoy!
 Contents
� 6 CHAPTER 4 114
_ What Makes a Great Landscape? Creating Privacy
All great gardens share certain traits. You've got to have some, even in the
Include them in your plan and success is outdoors. Will yours come from a screening
guaranteed. fence, a hedge, or some combination of both?

C ? 22 CHAPTER 5 144
- Landscape Styles for Today _ Making Your Plan
Searching for an overall look for your garden? We demystify the process and guide you
Here are some favorites. step-by-step.

CHAPT 68 CHAPTER 6 176

_ Places to Sit, Walk, and Play - Landscape Plans
What could be more essential? Here are some Actual landscape plans from great gardens
ideas to consider. around the country, including detailed plant lists.
 CHAP D 204 272
_ Laying the FOW1dation _ Artful Touches
These are the jobs that come first-grading, It's those details-a brightly colored wall,
drainage, and sprinklers. attractive furniture-that make a garden
livable and personal.

CHAP 220
_ Building Patios, Decks, and Paths
Every garden needs such structures.
Here's what you need to know to get started.
296
_ Choosing Plants
eed plant ideas? We got 'em, more than
500 in fact, our favorites in aU catgories.

CHAPTER d 252
_ Landscaping Projects r: i PTE 1? 386
These are some of our favorites projects for _ Gardening Basics
weekend builders. What you need to know about watering and
mulches, fertilizers, pruning, lawns, and pests.

I DEX 424
IN THIS CHAPTER
Keep It Private but Open
1 \ � I UR I)HI \ ,\C\, 13l T OT rOE TOO MUCI-J
In whole or in part, well-planned landscapes contain the
right combination of private and open space.
Visually and literally, a fence, wall, hedge, or a
planting of shrubs and trees transforms a space into
a guiet, restful retreat. They also do practical jobs like
keeping your chiJdl'en and pets in and unwanted intru­
sions out.
Depending on its height, location, and screening
properties, an enclosure can also provide privacy-an
increasingly valuable comlllo dity. The right amount of
privacy allows you to live and work in the garden just as
you wish-frolll singing to yourself as you sow seeds or
stretching out on a chaise longue in the sun.
Does enclosing a garden always mean you're keeping
the rest of the world away? Yes and no. Even i f your
landscape includes the most gloriously unlimited natural
vista-whether a forest, mountain range, canyon, coast­
line, or desert-you'll need to enclose a portion of it.
Maiden grass partially screens and softens the edges of a meandering
path, drawing visitors to a private garden bench. Tall p lants behind the
bench and upright columns along the path frame this retreat.
Conversely, if it's on a Manhanan roofrop, you'U want to
leave a view of the city or a glimpse of neon.
Walk around your property, identifying areas that
require covers or screens. Also try to evaluate how plant­
ings and additional structures will affect your neighbors,
the panerns of sun and shade in your garden, and any
views you want ro p reserve.
TOP LEFT: An arbor, covered with climbing roses, provides just enough
privacy while not completely blocking the neighboring view.
TOP RIGHT: The most beautiful screen of al l-an artful combination of
flowering trees and plants-a llows some privacy for front-porch loungers.
BOTTOM LEFT: Classic picket fence and covered gate at the front of this
house create a charming division between public and private spaces.
BOTTOM RIGHT: Gate set within a tall hedge marks a threshold between
garden areas, adding an air of mystery and an invitation to explore.
KEE P I T P R I V ATE BUT OPEN 9

Be Comfortable
M A K E YOUR L A N D SCAPE AN E A S Y PLACE TO R E L A X
Landscape designers think about outdoor space j ust how
architects and interior designers think about indoor
space: The needs, desires, and comfort of their clients
come first. In an outdoor setting, this means providing
just enough shade in summer and sun in winter and
convenient places for sitting and lounging.
Because walls, ceilings, and floors are such an essen­
tial part of any home, architects and interior designers
10 WHAT M A K ES A G REAT L A N OS C A P E?
Set off in a secluded corner of the garden, this small patio features
a vine-covered arbor. When in bloom, the long panicles of Japanese
wisteria create a fragrant bower, perfect for shady alfresco dining.
don't need ro discuss the importance of these structural
elements with their clients. But people may have diffi­
culty thinking about elements they associate with indoor
spaces as essential to an outdoor space. Yet every well­
designed landscape, large or small, has "walls," "ceilings,"
and "floors" that must be considered from the very
beginning of the design.
Beyond structural elements, landscape designers
have concerns thar are typical for indoor spaces-furni­
ture, lighting, traffic parrerns, and cooking equipment­
i n addition to the kind of style the homeowner desires.
When you think of landscaping, don't think only of
plants. Instead, think first about how you and your fam­
ily and friends want to live outdoors. Put your own
needs ahead of the plants you want to grow. Once you've
taken care of those needs, go ahead and plant.
TOP LEFT: A lantern illuminates a romantic dining nook, creating a
private space in an evening garden. A leafy trellis defines the ceiling.
TOP RIGHT: A fireplace creates an inviting focal point in this stone·paved
outdoor dining room. Sturdy pillars support the lath ceiling.
BOTTOM LEFT: Striking red Adirondack chairs have a high visual impact
on a grassy lawn. Under the trees, a hammock invites a shady nap.
BOTTOM RIGHT: Commanding the best view, this· combination of arbor
and old·fashioned swing makes a comfortable place to relax.
BE COMFORTABLE 1 1
Develop Your Style
AfTER ALL, ITS YOUR LANDSCAPE
Keep in mind that your landscape belongs to you and
that the best outdoor landscapes reflect the personalities,
tastes, and interests of their owners. Wouldn't it be bor­
ing if people used only one standard to j udge a success­
ful landscape? Luckily, many people feel freer to express
themselves in their outdoor surroundings than they do ill
their interior spaces, perhaps because the outdoor canvas
is larger and has looser boundaries. And even if you're a
little timid about expressing your own taste in the front
yard, ill the relative p rivacy of your backyard, your only
rule may be that anything goes.
You're allowed to say, "It's my garden, and
you don't h ave to like it." A treehouse with a rope
ladder� Brightly painted garden walls? Patio trees
festooned year-round with little twinkling lights?
A Victorian fretwork design on the deck railing?
A pathway enlivened with a mosaic of bits of broken
crockery? Why not?
Visitors pass a collection of unusual potted dwarf conifers at the entry
arbor before seeing the plants beyond the gate. The potted plants
demonstrate a restrained color palette and variegated foliage.
TOP LEFT: Annual flowers and colorful foliage plants surround a n BOTTOM: A school of fish carved from weathered wood appears to
old·fashioned r e d metal chair, flanked b y matching gazing balls. swim over waves of foliage below a wall of cedar shakes.
TOP RIGHT: Spring flowers and ivy spill from whimsically planted
garden boots. Stuff crumpled newspaper into the bottom of the
boots and then fill with potting soil.

DEVELOP YOUR STYLE 13

Embrace Nature
I N VITE IT IN, B U T � fRIVE FOR B A L A NCE
Great landscapes embrace nature. They borrow certain
practicalities from their indoor counterparts, but t h ey
effortlessly m ak e the most of all that nature offers.
Do what you can to bring in the natural world­
the sky, clouds, birds, butterflies, a breeze, shadows,
stars, and views of the surrounding hills or of water.
The trick is finding the right balance. Practically
speaking, this may mean reducing the size of a patio
14 W H AT MAKES A G REAT L A N D S C A P E?
and screening i t , or m a k ing an overhead structure
more open, to bring creature comforts into balance
with the natural setting. Does this m ean that you may
This stucco wall encloses a private garden but a l lows views of the
hillsides beyond it. A shallow birdbath, al ong with yellow coreopsis and
purple Spanish lavender flowers, attracts butterflies. The vine-covered
arbor shades a cozy bench swing.
srill experience rimes of rhe day rhar are roo hor ro sir
ourside or roo windy for an ourdoor meal? Yes, bur
you may feel rhar's a small price ro pay for all rhe orher
joys of ourdoor living.
Findi.ng rhe righr balance goes for wildlife, roo.
Encourage birds and bunerflies by providing food.
shelrer, and warer and by growing rhe planrs rhey prefer.
Bur also provide rhe righr kind of barriers or deren'enrs
ro mosquiroes and deer, for example.
TOP LEFT: A rich tapestry of shapes and colors-from chartreuse
lady's mantle to burgundy Japanese maple-nearly envelops
this natural-looking miniature pond.
TOP RIGHT: Where natural woodland is in short supply, wrens,
bluebirds, and chickadees are among birds that may decide
to nest in well-placed birdhouses.
BOTTOM LEFT: This simple arbor, soon to be cloaked by flowering
vines, provides a Quiet refuge to watch hummi ngbirds drawn to the
hanging feeder.
BOTTOM RIGHT: In a backyard pond, a northern leopard frog surfaces
among the water plants. It helps keep insect pests in check.
EMBRACE NAT U R E 15
Celebrate the Seasons
REI\1C"IBER Ir� r\ G \RDLN FIRST N O T A L I V I N G R OO M
One thing is certain: A landscape shows off the seasons
in ways interior rooms cannot. To get the most enjoy­
ment, design for year-round interest. Trumpet spring
with a display of flowering bulbs and annuals i f you l i ke,
bm don't neglect the beauty of a crab apple in fall.
Place a dogwood prominently for its spring flowers,
but also to h ighlight its bare braDcbes in winter.
Changing the look of your interior rooms to matcb
the seasons is doable and even fun , but really only sensi­
ble for a few of us. But outdoor spaces are another mat­
ter. Nature is in charge, and the landscape will change
whether you're ready or not. So make tbe most of it,
from the profound seasonal changes of the Northeast
16 WHAT M A K ES A G R E AT L A N DS C A P E ?
and Midwest to the more subtle but equally command­
ing variations of the South and Far West.
Imagine how your use of the landscape will vary
from season to season. I n spring, you'll want to be
outdoors as much as possible. Summer is for enter­
taining and perhaps quiet times in the sbade. A n d
during winter, more often t h a n n o t you'll be inside
looking out.
Pink cosmos, purple coneflowers, and towering phlox practical ly
shout, "Summer!" This blend of annuals and perennials promises
a long season of butterfly-attracting blossoms, while seeds of
coneflowers and cosmos draw finches.
TOP LEFT: A mix of trees and shrubs of varying densities and heights BOTTOM: Fiery autumn foliage of liquidambar and maple trees
gives this snow·covered garden plenty of shape and visual interest. glows behind the bent·stick loveseat. Beside it, golden grasses
TOP RIGHT: Red, golden, white, and pink zinnias bloom in autumn against cascade over the patio stones.
a backdrop of orange pumpkins ready for Halloween carving.

C E LE B R A T E THE S E A S O NS 17

Be Practical
A C C O M M O D AT E Y OUR F A M I LY'S N EE D S
The best landscapes address the practical needs of their
owners. Just as indoors, people need room for their
clutter, tools, equipment, and supplies. Every home­
owner has to deal with trash cans and yard waste bins
and find a place to store them. And then there are the
nuts-and-bolts aspects of accessories, like pool equip­
ment, irrigation timers, air conditioning units, and out­
door lighting systems.
Side yards offer one of the most logical spots to
locate these practical necessities, especially if they can
be grouped in one area. Bear in mind that pool and air­
conditioning equipment can be annoying when running
so try not to locate them under a bedroom window, or
where they could ruin an outdoor dinner party.
Plan for safety and ease of movement. Gates, fences,
18 WHAT M A K E S A G R EAT LAN D S CAP E?
A shed designed in harmony with the garden can serve several functions.
This one shelters a seating nook and provides enough room for tool
storage, counter spaces, and trash Dr compost b ins-Dr even firewood.
and railings safeguard people against dangers posed by
swimming pools, driveways, busy streets, and elevated
decks. Ramps and graded paths with smooth, firm sur­
faces will ease passage for the disabled and elderly. Night
lighting permits safe movement and discourages intruders.
How much tinle are you willing to invest in mainte­
nance? Lawns, swimming pools, hedges, and rose and
vegetable gardens all need frequent upkeep. To ease
watering chores, an automatic irrigation system can cut
many hours of hand-watering from your schedule.
While practical concerns may seem relatively
minor in the overall scheme of things, you'll be glad you
addressed them early in the planning stage instead of
trying to figure out how to deal with them after the
landscape is completely installed.
TOP LEFT: This gracefully curved stone path is wide and smooth enough
for two people to walk side by side on its firm surface.
TOP RIGHT: In regions where lawn irrigation is a regular task, invest in
an underground sprinkler system to save time and energy.
BOTTOM LEFT: A fenced service area hides trash cans from view of this
well-planned deck. Shrubs screen the service area and provide a
pleasant backdrop for the deck seating.
BOTTOM RIGHT: Built-in storage on this arbor is cleverly concealed
behind a lattice-covered door. When the door is closed, the
compartment is completely invisible.
BE PRACTICAL 1 9

Let Beauty Reign
F I N D I NG WAYS TO A D D T H AT E XTRA S O M E T H I N G
Beauty in the garden takes many forms. Most often, it
is conceived as colorful flowers, and rightly so. The
diversity of flowers guarantees the possibility of endless
fascination.
Leaves are also a rich source of garden color, usually
lasting longer than flowers. Besides a host of remarkably
diverse greens, you can find plants with shades of yellow,
red, purple, blue, or gray.
Perhaps you assume that beauty is derived mostly
from artfully chosen and combined plants. That may be
so, but not necessarily: A single plant displayed in a
special container can be stunning.
To be beautiful, plants don't need to be exotic or
rare. Sometimes the most ordinary plants become
20 W H AT M A K E S A G R E AT L A NOS C A P E ?
Water tumbles from a terra-cotta jug i n this leafy oasis. Shade-loving
ferns, mosses, and pink impatiens illumi nate the small pool.
extraordinary when grown o r presented well. A common
but vigorous ivy is more beautiful than a rare plant that
struggles to live.
Some landscapes are beautiful by virtue of their
details, such as an artfully finished deck railing, a care­
fully laid pathway, or a well-placed sculpture. Brightly
painted walls and fences can elevate a simple landscape
to a memorable one.
Great landscapes can take many forms and styles,
but in the end, all are an unabashed celebration of
beauty. \'V'herever it occurs, beauty is the reason you
want to relax on the deck in the morning and linger
outdoors as long as possible in the evening.
TOP LEFT: Foliage of evergreen shrubs, Japanese maples, and grasses
provides both color and texture in this Asian-influenced garden.
TOP RIGHT: A few dramatic plants, such as New Zealand flax and
bold b l ue-green agave against airy lavender, add beauty to a
Mediterranean-style poolside garden.
BOTTOM LEFT: Flamboyant 'Pink Impression', 'Holland Glory', and
'Orange Emperor' tulips echo the colors of this brick-walled garden.
BOTTOM RIGHT: 'Pink Crysta ls' ruby grass with p i nk-and-silver
flower heads glows against a backdrop of ornamental grasses
and wil dflowers.

LET BEAUTY REIGN 21

IN THIS CHAPTER
Creating Curb Appeal
IF IT L O O K S G O O D , IT IS G O O D
Landscaping that enhances your house's curb appeal i s
one o f t h e best investments you can make. Yet for most
homeowners, the front yard is far from ideal. I t may be
a virtual blank slate, with neither personality nor charac­
ter, or be outdated, with a narrow walkway, a ring of
shrubs around the foundation, and a concrete slab at
the door. Conversely, your front yard may be so over­
grown with foliage that the house is hidden.
To transform your front yard, focus first on the
entry walkway. Make it so clear and obvious that guests
are never confused about the best route to the front
door. Also make the path wide enough for two adults to
comfortably walk side by side (see the diagrams on page
95 ) . In addition, use materials for the path and driveway
that complement and enhance your house's fa�ade.
All landscapes should be a mixture of permanent
24 L A N O S C AP E S T Yl E S FOR TODAY
and short-lived plants, b u t i n the front yard, this mix is
doubly important. Permanent plants, such as conifers,
look l ush and green from season to season. They create
structure and provide a stage for showier annuals and
perennials. Be sure to select low-growing or dwarf
conifers and broadleaf evergreens that are i n scale with
your home and won't soon block paths or windows.
Define the front entryway with accents of bold,
colorful annuals, in containers or i n a small planting
bed; replant seasonally. Containers also make the
most of tight quarters, on the steps of a front porch,
for example.
Create a show-stopping entrance to your front yard with an arbor of
climbing 'Phyllis Bide' roses, as in this garden. Blooming all season
long, the apricot blooms greet visitors and passersby.

• Provide clear and easy access to the front door.
• Don't hide the house With large shrubs.
• Use color accents up close where they'll have major Impact.
TOP: A robust planting of favorite perennials forms a mosaic of flowers
and foliage in this sunny driveway border and entrance garden.
BOTTOM LEFT: In place of a street-side lawn, a profusion of perennials
greets passersby and creates a favorable lirst impression.
BOTTOM RIGHT: This crisp, clean entry is defined by a brick path and
tidy Japanese holl ies. Bricks are laid in a herringbone pattern.
C R E A T I NG CURB A P P E AL 25

A Passion for Roses
T H E Y O F F E R B EAUTY, VAR I E T Y, A N D L USCIOUS SCEN T S
With the recent introduction o f the so-called landscape
roses-low-maintenance, disease- and pest-free varieties
that bloom more or less continuously throughout the
growing season and demand little pruning-roses can
now be considered easy-care plants.
If, however, you favor the familiar long-stemmed
hybrid tea or other types such as grandifloras, floribun­
das, and English roses, you'll pay a price for all that
beauty and fragrance.
To do what they do so well-namely, produce quanti­
ties of beautiful, often fragrant flowers-these roses need
special attention. ,AJthough hybrid teas can be planted
among other plant:" it's far easier to lavish them with the
attention they require if they grow in a small bed of their
own. Ten to twelve hybrid teas make a magnificent dis-
26 lANDSCAPE STYlES fOR T O D AY
I n a formal rose garden, align structures and ornaments along well­
defined sight l i nes. Plant roses together in their own beds, so it's easy
to give them the extra care they require.
play, provide plenty of flowers for cutting, and require a
bed only 8 by 12 feet or so. Any shape of bed will do, but
generations of gardeners have favored the formal look of
square, round, or rectangular beds edged with stone,
brick, or clipped boxwood. Often, a birdbath or sunclial
is placed in the center for added interest.
Nearly all roses demand a location that receives at
least 6 hours of sun each day_ Ideally, the bed will pro­
vide good air circulation and receive morning sun to
help dry the plants' leaves early in the day (damp leaves
invite disease).
Before planting, pay special attention to improving
the soil with organic matter. The extra effort you put
into improving the soil now will pay off in superior
growth for years to come.

• Choose varieties sUited to your climate and landscape needs
• Amend soil before planting.
• Provide 6 to 8 hours of sunshille daily and good air CIrculatIOn.
• For more information about roses. see page 354.
TOP LEFT: Double your rose-gardening pleasure by planting sprawling
landscape roses at the feet of tall, single-trunked standard roses.
TOP RIGHT: Arching over a split-rail fence, the 6- to 1 O-foot canes of
'Zephirine Orouhin' rose explode with fragrant cerise pink blooms.
BOTTOM LEFT: Just 3 feet tall, 'The Fairy' landscape rose shows off pale
pink flower clusters and glossy leaves from spring through fall.
BOTTOM RIGHT: Old-fashioned shrub roses domi nate the borders along
this gravel wa l kway, creating a del ightfully fragrant garden scene.
A Formal Look
I T'S U N D ERSTATED A N D E L E G A N T
Formal gardens may be large o r small; rural, suburban,
or urban; filled with plants or featuring practically none.
What defines a formal garden is a predominance of
straight lines, geometric shapes, and classical symmetry;
that is, what appears on one side of the garden is mir­
rored, sometimes with near perfection, by what appears
on the other. The outermost dimensions are frequently
rectangular, and this shape is repeated elsewhere in
pools, patios, flowerbeds, and borders. Often a single
object, such as a statue, sundial, or large urn, serves as
the center of interest. It's placed for optimum effect, usu­
ally toward the rear of the garden and directly in the line
of sight from a favored viewing spot.
H formal landscapes seem to be governed by rules,
they are. The precedents of today's formal gardens
stretch back to ancient Greece and Rome. Interestingly,
28 LANOSCAPE STYLES fOR T O D AY
while other garden styles come and go, formal gardens
have remained popular.
Formal gardens are well suited to Georgian-,
Mediterranean-, French-, and Victorian-style houses,
though they can also suit the geometric style of some
modern houses.
• Rely on sym m etry and geometric shapes for the overall design.
• Keep the design simple, clean, and spare.
• Choose plantings that e n h a nce the geometry of the design.
Perfect symmetry marks this tidy planting. The carefully c l ipped creeping
fig vine against a gray wall fools the eye, enlarging the cozy garden. The
low boxwood hedge encloses the classical-style fountain.
TOP LEFT: Close-clipped boxwood hedges and strict symmetry, hallmarks BOTTOM: Designed to be viewed from above, lormally clipped evergreens
of the formal style, give this entryway timeless appeal. offer year-round appeal, while the flowering border changes with the
TOP RIGHT: A birdbath provides a focal point for the garden bench i n this seasons. A sundial marks the garden's center.
formal arrangement. Note the geometric shapes of the beds and paths.

A FORMAL LOOK 29

Asian Style
TAP I NT O C E NTURIE S OF G A RD E N - M A K I N G K N OW-HO W
Inhabitants o f Asian countries have one o f the world's
most ancient gardening traditions. What has taken thou­
sands of years to refine and perfect would be impossible
to capture in just a few words. It's enough to say that
one of the most important underlying tenets of Asian­
style gardens is a reverence for nature.
Today's most successful and authentic Asian gardens
embody the same spirit that led early Chinese garden
makers to study and contemplate tbe beauty and mys­
tery of wild landscapes. Returning to civilization, these
early landscape designers attempted to re-create that
beauty and mystery, essentialJy by miniaturizing it.
Along the way, design ideas developed that included a
system of profound symbolism: a rock of a certain shape
depicts male energy, a placid pool represents female
30 LAND S CAP E S T YLES FO R T O D AY
A sheltered bell and weathered fence give this garden a Japanese look.
Creeping plants and moss·covered boulders surround large paving
stones that form a meandering path between rhododendrons, Japanese
maples, and evergreens.
attributes, a crooked path deters the passage of evil, and
a turtle-shaped rock represents nothing less than ten
thousand eons.
Given this reverence for the natural world, it's not
surprising that Asian cultures revered gardens. An
important part of any Asian-style garden, grand or
smalJ, is a place to sit and contemplate and appreciate
beauty. If you intend to create a garden in this style,
don't forget this important component. And remember
to keep the design simple. Like any formal landscape,
much of the alJure and beauty of Asian-style gardens
relies on simplicity and purity of vision. Avoid the temp­
tation to overdo it; instead, ask yourself at each turn,
"Will this add to or take away from the scene I'm trying
to create?"

• Take cues from nature; don't be afraid to Imitate.
• Learn about the symbolism contained In Asian gardens.
• Simplify at every step in the design process
TOP LEFT: Water is an important feature in Asian gardens. Red azaleas·
accent this overflowing stone basin fed by a traditional bamboo spout.
TOP RIGHT: Simple l i nes and angles of this wooden deck give it an Asian
flair. Stones l ine the edge of a pool that flows under the wa l kway .
BOTTOM LEFT: A rustic fence with a pagoda-style roof is complemented
by the weeping Atlas cedar growing next to it. Note how the elements of
the house and garden present a unified vision.
BOTTOM RIGHT: Small details are important. Here, a diminutive bamboo
gate echoes the living bamboo l ining the pathway.
ASIAN S T YlE 31
Easy-Care Landscapes
lOCV) O[\J MINIivIIlll"<C UPKEEP
An unkelllPt landscape makes both gardener and guests
ullcomfortable. The patio furniture may look romantic
when littered with a few fallen leaves, but if the planrs
appear uncared for, the atmosphere is depressing.
One way to keep up with main tenance is to install
a garden that essentially takes care of itself, with auto­
matic irrigation, large areas of paving, and tough
evergreen shrubs. However, if you love to use a hose
and to see the garden change dramatically with the
seasons, this low-maintenance solution won't appeal.
One alternative is to develop a garden that reduces the
tasks you hate-pruning vigorous vines, perhaps-and
i ncludes tasks you enjoy, such as raking oak leaves off
a gravel path or deadheading roses with llluch-ioved
old pruners.
Excellent soil combined with plants that are well
suited to your climate and conditions will get the garden
off to an good start. Mulching will reduce the need for
weeding, and an automatic irrigation system will reduce
the need for hand-watering. If you dislike sweeping and
raking, avoid planting trees and shrubs that drop messy
fruits, flowers, and leaves. Unless you enjoy pruning,
choose plants that won't outgrow their space. Group
plants that have similar needs so they are much easier t o
111aintain.
In place of a lawn, a tranquil "streambed" of gravel meanders around
the garden, punctuated by a few well-chosen, low-maintenance
flowering annuals and perennials. Prominent plants incl ude annual
pink cosmos and purple Russian sage, a perennial.

• Amend a nd prepare weed-free sOil before planting.
• Choose well-adapted plants that fit your space.
• Suppress weeds and save water with mulch.
• Install an automatic irrigation system (details on page 212).
TOP LEFT: Paved patio and path surfaces reduce yard maintenance;
low-growing evergreen ground covers eliminate the need for mowing.
TOP RIGHT: Easy care 'Autumn Joy' sedum offers masses of deep rose
flower clusters that turn coppery as autumn advances.
BOTTOM LEFT: A brick mowing strip not only makes trimming lawn edges
easier but also provides strong definition and a sense of order.
BOTTOM RIGHT: Bold and simple plantings, including river birches,
grasslike l i riope, and sedums, make for easy upkeep of this garden.
E A S Y- C A R E LA N D S C A P E S 33
Family-Centered Backyards
M \ �r S PAces f O R P L AY I N G , G RO W IN G , A N D L O U N G I N G
Landscapes designed with the needs o f a busy family around t h e barbecue. S u n and wind control, a s well
in mind take into consideration the full range of activi­ as areas for dining, entert aining, p laying relaxing, and
,

ties that occur outdoors, with the accent on fun. working, became primary considerations. Along t he way,
Anything and everything-from swimming pools, built­ a new definition of landscaping emerged, one that
in kitchens, tree houses, sport courts, gazebos, children's included all these elements for out door li ving .

play areas, dining areas, saunas, swings, and spas-can

and should be considered as a part of a landscape that's
designed for active outdoor l iv ing . Fun and function mix company in this backyard flower and vegetable
The popularity of such landscapes began in subur­ garden. The whimsical scarecrow and casual c h i ld-sized chair set the
ban neighborhoods in t he 1 950s and was cent ered tone, inviting young gardeners into a space designed for their needs.

34 LANDSCAPE STYlES FOR T O D AY


• Locate areas designated for outdoor cookmg and dining close
to the house.
• A well-maintained lawn IS one of the most versatile surfaces
for outdoor living and playing.
• Ask your children what they'd like In the garden. Listen to their
answers.
• For a sample landscape plan created with families In mind.
see page 186.
TOP LEFT: Broad benches in this arbor create a poolside space that's
perfect for sharing a board game, a cool drink, or a conversation,
TOP RIGHT: A vine·covered arch divides garden spaces. Potato vine
scrambles up a pair of gateposts and across sturdy timbers.
BOTTOM LEFT: Surrounded by a carpet of wood chips, a carved and
cushioned stump makes a comfortable chair for reading or reflecting,
BOTTOM RIGHT: Eye·catching lattice paneling and wooden shingles make
this doghouse a charming and functional addition to any yard,
F A M l l Y · C E NT E R E O BACKYAROS 35

Just Add Water
EVEN A LITTLE GOES A L O N G WAY
Water gardening is booming because homeowners have
discovered the big impact that even a small pond can
make-and also how easy it is to include one. Because
of this popularity, options are increasing. Fountains and
ponds are the most common choices, but even some­
thing as simple as a birdbath adds a little of water's
reflective charm to the garden, while at. the same time
doing something nice for the birds.
If you decide on a fountain or pool, the choice is
largely a matter of personal preference and the layout
of your garden. Many terra-cotta and cast-concrete wall
fountains come with recirculating pumps. Vinyl pond
liners and fiberglass shells are available in many shapes,
sizes, and depths, and they make installing a pool almost
as easy as digging a hole (see pages 262 through 265 ) .
And you always have the option of adding a custom-
36 L A N DS C A P E S T Y l E S FOR TODAY
Nestled i n a private garden, this cobble and concrete pool offers a
tranquil place for reflection. Small rocks, flagstone, and boulders add
textural interest and blend with the muted tones of surrounding plants.
designed pool, which is formed from reinforced poured
concrete. Keep in mind that geometrically shaped pools
look best in formal gardens, while free-form pools and
waterfalls are best suited to informal landscapes.
Goldfish and koi add an exotic shimmer of life to
the water. Both live for decades. Even in cold-winter
climates, they can dwell year-round in the pool as long
as it is outfitted with a pool heater.
• Place a water feature where it can be easily viewed and
enjoyed.
• Remember that waterlilies require at least 6 hours of
sunlight to bloom.
• Protect goldfish and koi from predators.
TOP LEFT: Placed among colorful flowers and foliage, a mossy stone
basin invites birds to drink and bathe.
TOP RIGHT: Splashing water from a reproduction antique lountain BOTTOM: Water bubbling from a lountainhead inside a boulder
enlivens this garden retreat and masks intrusive noises. cascades down its sides, sending soothing sounds across the patio.

JUST ADO WATER 37

Outdoor Rooms
CI\EATE [NTIMATE NOOKS fI\OM BIG , OPEN S PA C E S
When a fence, hedge, o r masonry waU encloses an
outdoor space, the space becomes, essentially, an out­
door room. The question, then, for homeowners and
landscape designers is whether they want one big multi­
purpose room or a series of rooms designed for specific
needs. For example, you may want separate areas for
outdoor cooking (and eating) and a vegetable garden.
Or you may want a divider between a patio area and a
utilitarian cuning garden or dog run .
You can separate one area from another i n a variety
of ways. Fences, hedges, low walls, rows of shrubs, and
lanice screens serve well. Being able to catch a glimpse
of the adjoining room through an opening i n a hedge or
fence adds to the mystery and appeal, and beckons
visitors from one room to the next.
Although you might not think of garden areas as
outdoor rooms, many landscapes already employ the
concept to shield a utility area for trash cans and garden
equipment from view. They can also hide a vegetable
garden behind a vine- covered lattice. How far you take
the idea is up to you, but it can add usefulness and
livability to any size of garden.
Dividing this cramped, steep yard into outdoor rooms made creative use
of a difficult site. A sunny din ing terrace offers low walls for comfortable
seating and overlooks a colorfu l , cozy flower garden below.

• To unify a garden of rooms. repeat matenals throughout the
landscape.
• On a flat site. even minor grade changes add drama.
• A series of well-designed garden rooms makes even a small
garden seem large.
TOP LEFT: This arbor-covered gate creates the impression of
entering an outdoor room. On the gate, note the weighted chain
that makes it self-closing.
TOP RI GHT: Steps and angled hedges suggest distinct spaces i n this
small garden. Its wel l -arranged design offers smaller nooks for relaxing
and entertaining.
BOTTOM: Four simple plaster columns create the impression of an
outdoor room with little intrusion. Trees provide an airy enclosure.
OUTOOOR ROOMS 39

Courtyard Sanctuaries
W H ERE I T ' S HOT A N D DRY, T H E Y C O O L A N D REFRE S H
From their origins in arid climates, courtyard gardens
contain the tradition of blocking out harsh surroundings
while enclosing a bit of a cool, welcoming paradise.
These oases are wonderful gardens ro live with and in,
functioning much like outdoor rooms.
Because they are enclosed, courtyard gardens are
like distilled versions of larger landscapes. All of the
elements are there-the floors, ceilings, and walls;
the flowers, trees, and shrubs. But because the space
is confined, each element is brought out in high relief,
combining to make an impact out of proportion to
its size.
40 LANOSCAPE S TY l E S FOR TODAY
Showing the character of years, this Mediterranean-style courtyard
blends terra-cotta tile squares with diagonally set blue-glazed accents;
it also features a vibrantly tiled fountain. A small flowering tree
provides dappled shade.
The peace and calm afforded b y these special land­
scapes invites people to linger, but without plenty of
comfortable seating as a part of the plan , that invitation
is no better than a tease.
If you're considering a courtyard garden, don't fall
prey to the " bigger is better" notion. For courtyards,
small is beautiful-and comforting. You won't need ro
go overboard with plantings. A couple of well-chosen
small trees ( possibly even in containers), a few vines for
the wall, perhaps a small boxwood hedge surrounding a
fountain ( don't forget the fountain ! ) , and a pot or two
of flowering annuals are all you need.

• Small courtyards are Intlmate--don't make yours too large.
• Don't try to crowd in too many plants
• Include comfortable seating.
• For a desert courtyard design, see page 1 92 .
LEfT: Arched entry frames view o f private courtyard a n d issues invitatio'n
to come i nside and visit. Dappled shade and cooling brick create
comfortable summer retreat.
TOP RIGHT: This narrow, L·shaped side yard has all the charm of a
more traditional, square courtyard. Note the space·saving wall
fountain and comfortable seating.
BOTTOM RIGHT: Complete with koi pond and ample seating, this
courtyard garden was created in a narrow space, It includes a rill
set i n the middle of the stairs,
C OU RTYARO SANCTU ARIES 41
Small Spaces
THE) C t\ ".J STILL PA C K A L A N D S C A P E P U N C H
The average size o f home landscapes i s shrinking.
Instead of expansive open spaces, most gardens are
pocket-sized-perhaps just a balcony or rooftop-in
which to create a private paradise.
Size is relative. What matters most is not the physical
dimensions of the space, but a commitment to create a
good design and to invest ingenuity in the effort.
Small gardens have certain advantages. Condensed
spaces are natur<llly cozy and inviting. They bring each
planr into sharper focus, making even a common red
geranium in a terra-cotta pot seem special. Although
weeds, dead leaves, and other· garden debris stand out
in a small space, the effort to keep a small garden tidy is
minimal, leaving more time simply to enjoy it. And
42 LANDSCAPE STYlES FOR TODAY
because there is less t o buy, you can create a great small
landscape on a modest budget.
Scale is perhaps the most important element to
consider in small spaces. Choose plants that are naturally
compact and fine-textured and furniture that is smail but
comfortable. Likewise, choose features, such as a foun­
tain or pool, that are small in scale without sacrificing
their function. The fact is that you can shoehorn all the
elemenrs of a larger landscape inro the smallest of spaces
if you pay careful attenrion to the size of every element.
The painted trompe l'oei l gate at the end of this small courtyard fools
the eye into believing that a larger garden lies ahead. The curved path
and repeating flower colors also move the eye and create interest.

• Don't skimp on planning. Use the same process In a small
space as you would i n a large one.
• Borrow a view of a distant tree or mounta in by aligning the
garden's axis with it.
• To accent the garden's length. make a focal point, such as
an arch, at one end.
TOP LEFT: This pocket-sized patio seems large, with inviting old brick
pavers, mature vines, plenty of comfortable seating, and beautiful views.
TOP RIGHT: The angled patio and gently curving pathway make this small
garden look larger than it is. A koi pond adds a swirl of motion.
BOTTOM LEFT: A place to get away from it all, this small corner garden
provides seclusion and relaxation. The wal l planting of geraniums and
ivy takes advantage of vertical growing space.
BOTTOM CENTER: A clever design divides the garden in diagonals,
disguising the narrowness of the space while creating intrigue.
BOTTOM R IGHT: An inviting path leads to a small stone patio-just the
place to stop and smell the roses. No space is wasted here, where
plants fill every nook and cranny.
SMAll SPACES 43

The Cottage Garden Ideal
I T ' S A STYLE THAT ' S L I G H T A N D L O O S E
A landscape with the personality o f an English cottage
garden has great charm. Plants are grown and added at
the taste and whim of the gardener, and the only guiding
principle is to include the gardener's favorite plants.
The effect is likely to be kaleidoscopic, with an old
climbing rose, a clump of daylilies, a mat of nasturtiums,
and a towering stand of hollyllocks surrounded by spots
44 L A NO S C A P E STYlES -0. TODAY
The charm of this c ottage garden starts with the strong structural
elements of a white p icket fence and an arbor that gives glimpses of the
flowering perennial gardens beyond. 'New Dawn' roses cover the arbor.
of color from cottage pinks, basket-of-gold, veronica,
poppies, and other plants. The true cottage garden has
a wild and woolly look, but it is also an engaging spot in
which to lose onesself.
While this loose design approach may appeal to
you, the more random and chaotic the plantings, the
more important it becomes to have a strong skeleton
u nderly tng everyrhing and co n rrib ur ing ,I s u b r le , bur
discernable, sense of order ro rhe scene. As wirh anv
arher landscape, srarr rhe design by defining urilirari'lIl
areas-parhways, parios, decks, and so on. Bear in m ind
rhar because ca r rage gardens are narurally unruly, parhs
need ro be exrra-wide ro accommod<He planrs' exuber­
ant growth. Leave enough room for ourdoor dcriviries,
such as cooking, dining, and lou nging, and rhen decide
the shapes and sizes of rhe flower beds and borders.
The p rofuse, bounriful look associared wirh corrage
gardens depends on planrs rhar are nor merely growing
but thriving, and in order ro thrive, rhey need rhe besr
possible soi.!. Improve it before planring. You'll prob'lbly
never get a second chance ro do ir righr, so be s u re ro 'ldd
generous amOWlrs of organic marrer ro the soil, till ir in
deeply, and add whatever amendmenrs may be necessary.
• Design beds with bold lines and curves.
• Use roses as landscape plants, fll lll1g In around them with
billowy com panIOn plants.
• Arrange plants to create drifts of flower colors.
TOP LEFT: There are no strict rules for planting a cottage garden.
Include as many plants with as much variety as you like. The more
variety of blooms and colors, the better.
BOTTOM LEFT: Morning glories frame the windows at the end of the this
exuberantly planted path. Roses punctuate the planting beds.
RIGHT: Pink b l ossoms cover 'Ballerina' rose. Across the path, dianthus,
catmint, and scabiosa mingle beside yellow 'Sun Goddess' rose.
When Plant Lovers Garden
If PI \ I S .\ RL Tlf[ 1 ()( (' \ , I I I L RES L LT S A RE ,\ L\'('j\Y S I N TERESTING
If you're , 1 plant lover-if you b u y plants a t nurseries,
garden centers, plant sales, garage sales, and grocery
stores without having the faintest idea of where you
intend to plant them-you need a special kind of
landscape.
You might assume this approach would result in a
chaotic landscape, bur usually the opposite is true. Plant
lovers constantly pinch, tweak, rearrange, and reorder
their gardens. It's that constant fussing that, in the end,
creates a beautiful garden.
The examples on these pages show that you can be
a plant lover and still leave some room in the garden for
human inhabitants.
• Well-defined beds and edged paths keep an overflowering
garden from looking unkempt.
• Choose plants that Interest you and label them so you can
keep track.
• Rearrange and reorder plants frequently: there's no such
thing as too m uch trial and error.
Borders are bigger and lawns smaller when plant lovers garden. This
border combines perennials, such as phlox, heliopsis, coreopsis, salvia,
sedum, and speedwell, with oakleaf hydrangea.
TOP: Stepping-stones lead to a bentwood chair from which to contemplate
the eclectic mix of flowering plants and grasses i n this casual garden.
BOTTOM LEFT: Plant lovers can always find room for one more, even if it
has to be wedged into a terra-cotta container. Here, a variegated agave
accents the planting.
BOTTOM RIGHT: Without apparent rhyme or reason, self· sown pink
foxgloves pierce the air in a beautiful spring display. Neatly clipped
yew hedges contain them.

W H E N P L A NT LOVERS GARDEN 47

A Cook's Garden
WAYS TO KEEP HERBS A N D VEGETA B L E S C L O S E BY
Nothing is quite so satisfying to cooks as being able to
walk out the back door to grab a sun-ripened tomato
for a salad or snip a sprig of parsley or basil for a pot
of simmering soup. While a sprawling vegetable garden
may work for some, those with smaller spaces can
enjoy the convenience of home-grown vegetables and
herbs, too.
Even if you're a novice gardener, creating a garden
that's both edible and attractive is well within your
reach. You can mix edibles with flowering perennials
48 LANOSCAPE STYlES FOR TOOAY
Both kids and vegetables thrive in this packed kitchen garden overseen
by a scarecrow. Just step out the back door for baskets of summer
vegetables. Fragrant herbs and bouquets add to the mix.
and annuals, essentially using vegetables a s ornamentals.
This allows you to enjoy small amounts o f home-grown
produce without a big commitment of time and space.
Use herbs, with their clistinctive fragrances and inter­
esting colors, to line pathways and use long-lived vegeta­
bles, such as cabbage, to fill decorative containers. The
colors and textures of leafy greens, such as Swiss chard,
brighten late-season borders, while the shapes of dra­
matic plants, such as artichoke o r rhubarb, lend an
sculptural touch to a border.

o Choose a location close to the kitchen that receives at least
6 hours of sunlight a day.
o Make sure there is a supply of water near the garden.
o Include flowers for color.
o For an edible garden plan, see page 184.
TOP LEFT: Easy-to-build raised p lanters provide perfect conditions for
golden sage, basil, rosemary, and other fragrant and culinary herbs.
TOP RIGHT: The shapes, colors, and textures of leafy lettuces and
'Purple Vienna' kohlrabi brighten both the garden and the salad bowl.
BOTTOM LEFT: Free-blooming gold signet marigolds wind among
b l ue-green, red, and curly-leafed cabbages and smoky-colored kale.
BOTTOM RIGHT: In compact landscapes, use vegetables as edible
ornamentals. Plant them among flowers in borders and containers.
A COOK'S GAROEN 49
Container Gardens
BALC O N I E S , ROOFTOPS-EVEN ON STAIRWAYS A N D F E N C E S
Plants in containers, long a staple in city gardens, lend
versatility to any garden. Containers can go almost any­
where-into sun or shade-to provide a bright splash
of color or fill out a bare spot. They can become a focal
point in their own right if the container has sufficient
presence. Moreover, during a long winter, you can move
them to a protected spot and perhaps prolong bloom.
Container gardening allows you to display plants
where the soil is poor or even nonexistent. Place them
along paths, on stairs, in sitting areas, and even on the
tops and sides of walls and fences.
Among shade plants suitable for containers, some of
the most striking effects come from those with unusual
leaf markings and colorful foliage. Purple, red, and yel­
low foliage, such as that found on coleus, caladium, and
Persian shield (Strobilal1thes dyerial1us), makes a stun­
ning foil for bright flowers and lush green leaves.
Bold leaf shapes, such as those of hostas, can contrast
handsomely with fine-textured foliage, such as that of
50 l A NO S C A P E STYlES FOR TOOAY
fringed bleeding heart (Dicentra eximia). Strap-leaved
plants, such as agapanthus, can add drama and soften
the harsher lines of other plants.
Choices for sunny locations are practically unlim­
ited. Try flowering annuals, such as rosy pink petunias,
with erect blue mealycup sage (Salvia /aril1acea 'Victoria')
and white African daisies. Or match the pink floribu n da
rose 'Nearly Wild' with red-and-pink maiden pink
( Dianthus deltoides) . For large mixed plantings, select
the central plant first, then choose plants with flowers
that complement its growth habit and color. Annuals are
perfect for containers, thanks to their shallow roots and
vigorous growth, but most plants perform well as long
as the container is large enough to accommodate the
plant's roots.
Conta iners hold cushions of flowering plants, rambling vines,
bamboo, and sma l l trees i n this small concrete and brick-paved
courtyard. Water spilling from a lion mask on the wall cools the air.

• Make sure containers allow for good water drainage.
• In containers, use a l ightweight soil mix, not garden soil.
• Water and fertilize container plants on a regular basis.
• For a collection of container gardening ideas, see the garden
plan on page 194 .
TOP LEFT: Native prairie grasses rub shoulders with blanket flower,
gloriosa daisy, and purple coneflowers in this stone bowl composition.
BOTTOM LEFT: Bottomless culvert pipes lend an architectural element and
give billowing annual flowers a place to take root on this sunny deck.
RIGHT: Annuals and sculptural desert plants fill pots on both sides of this
courtyard fountain, softening the brick and stucco surfaces.
C O NT A I N E R G A R D E NS 51
An Artist's Garden
Ql I RK\ P Ll\Hi\P� , B L T ALWAYS FU N A N D A LWAY S I N TERESTIN G
Whether their owners are actually artists or not, the
landscapes pictured on these p,lges are certainly works
of self-expression. Their creators let loose in their own
backyards.
Strong forms and bold colors alternate with soft tex­
tures and quiet corners. No surface is sacred. The door
of a garden shed might be Day-Clo green, a patio may
be made from an intricate mosaic of broken bits of
crockery, or an old wheelbarrow might recall a Currier &
Ives painting. Whimsy abounds, and simply delighting in
the results is reason enough to enjoy these gardens.
It's interesting to note that artists' gardens are
usually the expression of a single personality. Rare is
the couple who can agree on what ornament goes where
in the garden or whether fluorescent purple is a good
color to paint a lawn chair.
• Be willing to experiment-and fail.
• Trust your own eye and experience.
• Look at familiar materials in new ways.
The trompe l'oei l gate, painted on an otherwise blank wall, welcomes
visitors to an imaginary land beyond the wall. The painted scene visually
enlarges the landscape, while planting up to the wall adds to the illusion,
TOP LEFT: A colorful mosaic of square blue, purple, orange, pink, and BOTTOM LEFT: Dymondia carpets the ground between paving stones,
red tiles marks the points of the compass in this flagstone path. surrounding an artistic sofa made from fieldstone and cement.
MIDDLE LEFT: Dramaticafly painted stucco walls provide a foil for plants RIGHT: With its yellow door and contrasting eaves, this artist's garden
with bold foliage and sculptural form, such as red-leafed kalanchoe. is bright with color even when no flowers are in bloom.

AN A R T I S T ' S GAROEN 53

Wildflowers Unleashed
BEAUTI F U L LY FREE SWEEPS O F STU N N I N G COLOR
When many people think o f wildflowers, they see them
as suitable only for large plantings-ones measured in
acres instead of square feet. Wildflower mixes, however,
are delightful, low·maintenance additions to landscapes
of any size, whether planted in traditional borders, in a
rough area out back. or ,1S a replacement for a lawn.
For the greatesl Sl tcceO' with wildflowers, pay atten·
tion to regional recot11 ,nc:nciatioL1s. Wildflowers that
54 lANOSCAPE STYl " TOOAY
A vibrant planting of spri ngtime wildflowers under a palo verde tree
includes reddish spikes of Parry's penstemon and gold Mexican poppies,
a simple yet powerful combination.
grow well i n some regions are utter failures i n another.
For example, California poppies return year after year
in the desert Southwest but are quickly overwheL" ed by
weeds and tall grasses in the rainy Southeast.
Also, take time to prepare the soil properly before
planting. Remove all weeds from the planting bed by
hand, by tilling, or by using an herbicide.

• Select a seed mixture specifically formulated for your region
• Start with a weed-free planting area.
• In all regions. planting In the early fall IS best: early spring
is second best.
TOP LEFT: Red poppies glow in a casual meadow planting, reflecting the
brilliant setting sun. Comfortable chairs invite visitors at day's end.
TOP RIGHT: For drama, choose wil dflowers with complementary colors,
such as orange California poppies and blue love-in-a-mist.
BOTTOM LEFT: A peeled board fence is the background for fescue and
wildflowers, including red poppies, purple penstemon, and yellow sundrops.
BOTTOM RIGHT: A cheery welcome begins at the curb where orange
California poppies predominate i n this casual entryway planting. The
poppies provide a surprisingly long season of bloom.

Shade Gardens
GOT S H A D E ? H ERE ARE WAY S TO U S E IT
As forests age, a whole new microclimate is created,
along with a unique set of plants that flourish in the
protection provided b y the canopy overhead. An amaz­
ing variety of ferns, the nodding bluebells of early
spring, the lyrical beauty of a dogwood tree in bloom,
and azaleas. Rhododendrons and camellias add their
resplendent blossoms to the spring green, and these are
just a few of the extraordinary plants associated with
woodland landscapes.
If you ' re interested i n creating a woodland garden
(and are lucky enough to have the natural conditions
that would foster one), your best bet is to mimic
56 l A ND S C A P E STYlES F O R T O D AY
D i m inutive irises rise early in spring and are attractive planted in
clusters around the base of pine tree and among mossy rocks.
nature's own designs. If possible, at different times of
year take as many walks as you can through natural
woodland areas i n your region. Take along a notebook
and a camera to record what you see. If plants catch
your eye but are unknown to you , take photographs
of them to a n u rsery where staff should be able to help
you identify them. Don't be tempted to dig up plants
from the wild-not only is it bad form, but it's illegal in
many areas.
Add a patio or deck where the view is particularly
pleasant. You'll undoubtedly want to spend as much
time as possible enjoying your plants at close range.

• Choose plants adapted to shade conditions under trees.
• Never collect woodland plants from the wild.
• For more Ideas, see the plan on page 196.
TOP LEFT: Drifts of bleeding heart, accented with primroses and
bluebells, make a naturalistic spring display in this shaded garden .
TOP RIGHT: Bold, white-edged hosta, purple hebe, and chartreuse lady's
mantle light up the shade under Douglas fir and myrtle trees.
BOTTOM LEFT: Snowdrops emerge in late winter as snow recedes from
under leafless trees. These flowers signal the beginning of spring.
BOTTOM RIGHT: Mature trees shade a carpet of w ildflowers and ferns.
This woodland slope makes a smooth transition from lawn to house.
SHAOE G A R O E NS 57
Backyard Habitat
\\ I , L U )MI f\J (, 'v I S IT I N C ( , RCf\TU1\E�
While some people dream of planting a rose garden or
vegetable patch, wildlife gardeners have visions of butter­
fly gardens and bird sanctuaries. Often, this type of land­
scape has no lawn, or it's only a small one. Gone, too, are
neatly trimmed shrub borders. In their place are informal
plantings of annuals and perennials and meandering
LEFT: This naturalistic Southwestern garden features red·flowering
autumn sage and bunny ears cactus, plus a visiting bunny.
TOP RIGHT: When snow covers the ground, cardinals enjoy red
hawthorn berries and other persistent fruits, such as crab apples.
BOTTOM RIGHT: Trumpet honeysuckle, a favorite of humm ingbirds,
clambers over a birdhouse intended for other feathered friends.
walks covered with pine needles or bark. Most contain at
least one birdbath, fountain, or small pool for the fresh
water that's essential to alJ forms of life.
All landscapes require regular upkeep, but informal
planting that attract wildlife are far less demanding than
more traditional ones. Allow plants to find their natural
forms instead of trimming them into tidy shapes. A weed
here or there isn't such an eyesore when it's growing amid
a profusion of billowing plants. And birds and butterflies
won't notice whether it's a weed or a cultivated plant.
Even though wildlife landscapes are informal, be
sure to define places to sit, relax, and rake in the sights
and sounds of your private sanctuary. A wooden bench
under a spreading tree, a couple of chaise longues on a
patio overlooking a small pond, or a clearing in a grove
of trees for a picnic table and benches will provide
human comfort and a vantage point.
TOP lEFT: Adult monarch butterflies are attracted to a variety 01
sun-loving Ilowers, incl uding these purple coneflowers.
BOTTOM lEFT: A rustic homemade bird feeder is right at home i n this
wildlife-Iriendly garden planted with an appealing assortment of annuals
and perennials.
RIGHT: When you create a wildlife habitat, be sure to leave room lor the
garden's human i nhabitants, too. That way, you'll have a ringside seat.
o Choose plants that proVide food and shelter for the Wildlife
you want to attract.
o Don't keep the landscape too tidy.
o ProVide a source of fresh water.
o For an example of a landscape planned with wildlife in mind,
see page 182.
BACKYARO H A B I T AT 59

Rock Gardens
IF Y O U ' V E GOT ' E M , USE ' E M
Rock gardens are landscapes i n miniature, simulations
of boulder-strewn mountain slopes, rocky outcrops of
coastal bluffs, or windswept high plains-all created
with diminutive Rowering and evergreen plants. Your
property may be suitable for a rock garden if it contains
natural outcrops of rock or slopes with thin, gravelly soil
that makes landscaping difficult.
Traditional rock gardens rely on plants from high
altitudes. CaUed alpine plants, they grow beneath a
winter blanket of snow on high mountain slopes. Low
and ground-hugging, they send roots deep into rocky
crevices and put forth brilliantly colored-and often sur­
prisingly large-Rowers. Modern rock gardens use any
type o f plant, as long as it is relatively delicate in scale.
60 L A ND S C A P E STYlE' fOR T O DAY
Perched on the slope, this garden blends dwarf conifers and low-growing
perennials, such as red penstemon, blue catmint, apricot poppies, and
yellow alyssum, that echo the wildflower fields of the Rocky Mountains.
Strict practitioners of alpine gardening insist upon
using plants and rocks that are native to alpine regions.
Casual rock gardeners insist only that a plant look right
in its rocky surroundings, caring little for the origin of
the plant and even less about where the rocks might
have come from.
The best rock gardens attempt to re-create a natural
rocky landscape, whether from the mountains or by the
shore. Most plants adapted ro rocky sites are naturally
dwarf and low-growing. Most rock gardeners avoid
annuals, such as petunias, dahlias, and zinnias; p referred
are low-growing junipers, dwarf conifers, compact
ground covers, and various mosses.
 TOP: Colorful conifers and flowering perennials, such as lady's mantle
with chartreus� blooms, offer a perfect contrast to the muted boulders.
• Make your garden about 40 percent rock and 60 percent BOTTOM LEFT: Crevices in l ichen-covered rocks are home for hen-and­
plants. Plant around stone steps or along the tops of chickens, which thrives on neglect in poor, rocky soil.
retaining walls. BOTTOM RIGHT: Variegated sedum dominates this rockery plante� with
• For a realistic look, copy nature. High mountain meadows succulents, each tumbling over the next for a natural-looking display.
usually have one type of stone and only two or three kinds of
wildflowers.
• To make a rock outcropping on a flat site, mound soil Into a
berm and place jagged rocks onto the face of It so they look
as if they've been forced u pward out of bedrock.

ROCK GAROENS 61
Tropical Flair
\,\/ HEN THE CLIMATE ' S RIG HT, B RI N G T H E TROPI C S HOME
More than a n y other landscape style, tropical landscapes
are about plants. Swaying pallTIs, neon-flowered
bougainvillea spilling over the top of a roof, cannas
rising rocket-like beside a garden pool, and aptly named
elephant's ears putting forth leaves the size of a table­
cloths are just a few of the treasures.
A mainstay of gardens in the Lower and Tropical
South, as well as the mild-winter West, tropical plants
are hot items for gardeners just about everywhere.
Tropical and semitropical plants revel in long hot SUITI­
mers. In addition, many of these plants bloom nearly
nonstop through warm weather with flowers that are
nothing short of spectacular.
Combining the different shapes and sizes of leaves of
these plants is as rewarding as combining different colors
of flowers. Try juxtaposing large-leaved plants with ones
that have small, delicate foliage or combine plants with
different -colored leaves.
Don't let the prospect of cold winters keep you
from trying tropicals in your garden. I n marginal cli­
mates, gal-deners can often p reserve tropicals just by
mulching them heavily in the autumn. Where this isn't
enough, grow them in containers, bring them indoors
before the first fall frost, then back outdoors the fol­
lowing spring.
This miniature tropical paradise was created from an assortment of
palms, tree ferns, and an angel's trumpet, with its large, wonderfully
fragrant hanging blossoms. The small pond makes room for exotic
water l i l ies and adds the soothing, cooling sound of water.
 • Mix and match textures, colors, and sizes of tropical plants .

• In cold-winter regions. grow tropicals in containers

.

• Check out the plan for a tropical oasis on page 202.

TOP LEFT: A tall canna 'Grande' and vari egated ficus tree preside over
this lush planting of colorful caladiums and sweet potato vine, bringing
a little bit of the tropics to the city.
TOP RIGHT: The finely cut fronds of the Mediterranean fan palm provide
intri cate tropical texture i n this entryway garden.
BOTTOM LEFT: Slate tiles set off a grove of sculptural palms, a
planting of tall horseta ils, and furniture draped in tropical colors.
BOTTOM RI GHT: Nothing succeeds like excess. Green-and-white
variegated caladiums makes a bold, exotic statement.

TROPICAL FLAIR 63

Waterwise Landscapes
HER[ ' S PROOF T H AT D RY DOESN ' T M E A N BORI N G
Where rain is scarce or reservoirs easily overtaxed­
whether from a temporary weather condition or the pre­
vailing climate-more and more gardeners are becoming
conscious of thei r water usage.
Many homeowners are forgoing large lawns and
sprawling beds of annuals that demand more in water
than they return in pleasure. Good alternatives are
water-conserving plants that are well adapted to the
region's natural conditions. These gardeners group
plants wisely, placing drought-resistant plants together,
and putting only the plants that need regular watering
on a separate irrigation system and schedule.
64 LANOSCAPE STYlES fOR TOOAY
Drought tolerant sedums and grasses i n this California border provide
textural contrast throughout. Blue-green agave adds drama to the top of
the wall; golden poppies add splashes of color. All take heat in stride.
The good news i s that Lowe's stocks plants that are
well adapted to your particular region-plants more or
less content to survive on the area's natural rainfall (or
occasional lack of it). To make the most out of what
water you have, choose less-thirsty plants.
Make sure your watering practices and devices
deliver water as efficiently as possible (see page 2 12 )
an d routinely incorporate organic matter t o i m prove
your soil's ability to resist evaporation and retain mois­
ture. Don't forget the value of mulch . A layer of organic
material over soil and around plants reduces moisture
loss, reduces weeds, and slows erosion.
 • Select plants that are native to your region or to a region with
a similar climate .
• Water only when plants Ileed it, not by the clock.
• Keep the landscape free of weeds; mulch liberally
• For good examples of waterwise landscapes, see pages 188
and 190.
TOP LEFT: Thyme happily creeps between the crevices of this
flagstone patio, demanding little care or water. Scarlet penstemon
brightens the foreground.
TOP RIGHT: Early spring, when intense blue pride of Madeira and
golden California poppies are i n bloom, is the showiest period for this
Mediterranean garden.
BOTTOM LEFT: Spiky yucca (far left) and purple Outch irises rise over
flowering perennials i n a Colorado garden. These drought-tolerant plants
withstand harsh winters.
BOTTOM RIGHT: Weeks of drought won't faze yellow fernleaf yarrow or
red-and-yellow blanket flower, but too much water can kill them.
WAT E R W I S E l A NO S C A P E S 65
Fire Safety
ll( ) \,\1 L A N D SC A PI N G M I G H T S AV E Y O U R H O U S E
Wildfires are a fact of life i n the West and are becoming
so in other regions of the country. One of the most
important steps you can take to prevent losing your
house to fire is to landscape it properly. Fire officials
believe that clearing the brush within 30 to 400 feet of
the house can halve the odds of losing your house to fire.
That's a big range, but the exact distance is determined
by slope, wind, neighborhood density, and your house's
architecture and materiais.
For years, C01111110n wisdom was to landscape with
fire-retardant plants. Fire specialists now say this prac­
tice is misleading. The 1991 fire in the hills of Oakland,
California, showed that fire-retardant plantings gave a
false sense of security, especially when those plants were
affected by drought, poorly maintained, or adjacent to
a house with a wooden roof. I n a high-intensity fire,
everything burns. But some landscapes are safer than
others. The following guidelines offer the best informa­
tion to date.
Above a fire-prone canyon, this garden has been landscaped with fire
safety in mind. The lawn acts as a buffer between the house and any fire
that may travel up the canyon. As added protection, low-growing
fire-resistant plants surround the lawn.
• Eliminate fire ladders-plants of different heights that
form a continuous fuel supply from the ground up to
the tree canopy.
• Create a transition zone, if your lot size allows, 30 to
50 feet out from the house. In this area, leave only
enough shrubs and low-growing plants to stabilize
a slope.
• Regularly clean up leaves and other plant litter and
remove overgrown brush.
• Clear all vegetation and debris from your roof and
gutters several times during the year.
• Keep plants well watered (assuming water supplies
permit), especially those within 30 feet of the house.
Keep grasses watered and green year- round.
TOP LEFT: Sprinkler system keeps lawns and landscape trees from drying
out and becoming fire hazards. Water as needed, not by the clock.
BOTTOM LEFT: A defensible landscape helped these firefighters save a
rural home from wildfire in San Diego County, California.
RIGHT: A professional pruner, secured by ropes and harnesses, thins the
deadwood from crown of this tree to make it more fire resistant.
• Thin crowns of clustered trees, trim limbs to 20 feet or
more off the ground, and cut back any branches to 1 5
t o 2 0 feet from the house. Prune out all dead
branches.
• Clear out overhanging tree branches along the drive­
way and prune back bushy shrubs to ensure that fire
trucks have easy access.
FIRE SAFETY 67
Patio or Deck?
\\'HI C l l \"\'ORKS FOR YOU ;>
First things first: Do you p refer patios or decks?
Sometimes, this decision is simply a matter of style or is
dependent on your site.
Decks .have a number of advantages. Deck lumber is
durable and resilient underfoot, and it won't store heat
the way stone, brick. or concrete does. Hardwoods add
a furniture-like elegance, and choices of man-made and
recycled products are also on the rise. Decks can also
tame sloping, bumpy, or poorly draining sites.
Patios, on the other hand, lend an unmatched sense
of permanence and tradition to a for111 al garden or house
design. You might choose traditional brick or tile or ele­
gant stone. Concrete pavers are rising stars, and they're
easy to install yourself. And don't rule out concrete­
you may be amazed at the jazzy techniques for coloring,
retexturing, and softening the concrete slab. Loose mate­
rials, such as pea gravel, bark, or wood chips, are still
other options.
Or why not combine both patio and deck in one
design;> A blend of masonry and wood allows great flexi­
bility in space, texture, and finished height.
Bricks placed diagonally fill a path leading to a col or-matched garden
seating area paved in traditional fieldstone. The path jazzes up the
fieldstone and echoes the brick wall of the house and entry steps.
TOP LEFT: The soft tones of this wood deck blend with the natural BOTTOM LEFT: Built above a mist·filled valley, this wooden deck
landscape. The built·in seating and gazebo encourage outdoor living. provides a scenic overlook and a front·row seat to a stunning view.
TOP RIGHT: This house·attached deck features stained 2·by-4 cedar BOTTOM RIGHT: Tightly fitted bluestone provides flooring for a formal
decking, built·in benches, planters, and a bridge over river rocks. patio, which serves as a foreground for a reflective garden pool.

PAT I O OR OECK? 71
Outdoor Living Takes Many Shapes
U S E YOUR H O U S E SHAPE FOR D E S I G N I N S P IR ATION
Many people regard a patio or deck as .a simple rectan·
gle outside the back door. But why not consider a suc­
cession of patios and level changes, connected by steps,
L- and U -s h a ped h o u se A house with this shape
ahnost cries out for a patio or deck. The surrounding
house walls already form an enclosure, so a privacy screen
and a decorative overhead structure, such as an arbor, per­
gola, or even a simple roof, complete the room. Often,
such a site can be reached from several different parts of
the house.
Wraparou , ld A flat lot is a natural candidate for a
wraparound patio, which enlarges the apparent size of
the house while allowing access from any room along its
course. If your lot has a gentle grade, rise above it with a
slightly elevated wraparound deck, which the Japanese call
an engawa.
72 PLACES TO S I T, WALK, AND PLAY
o r design a secluded deck i n a n attractive corner o f your
property? Perhaps you could even reclaim a forsaken
side yard. Here are some of the possibilities.
Detached s i te Perfect for serving as a quiet retreat, a
detached patio or deck can be built on a flat or a sloping
lot and looks very much at home in a cottage garden.
Reach it with a d irect walkway or a meandering path.
A roof, privacy screen, or small fountain can make such
a detached patio or deck even more enjoyable.
M u lt i level d e c k a n d patio A large lot, especially one
with changes in elevation, can often accommodate decks
and patios o n different levels, linked by steps or path­
ways. Such a scheme works well when outdoor space
must serve several purposes.
Rooftop a n d balcony s i te No open space in the yard)
Look up ! A garage rooftop adjacent to a second-story
living area may be ideal for a sunny outdoor lounging
space_ Or consider a smail balcony patio with a built-in
bench and planter box. Before building, consult with an
architect or structural engineer to make sure the existing
structure can take the additional weight of wood or
masonry and to plan for adequate drainage.
Entry patio Pavers, plantings, and perhaps a trickling
fountain enclosed by a privacy wall can transform an
ordinary entry path or front lawn into a private oasis.
If local codes prohibit building solid wails, try using a
hedge, arbor, or trellis to let in light and air while
screening off the street.
S i de yard space A neglected side yard may be just
the spot for a sheltered outdoor sitting area to brighten
and expand a small bedroom or master bath. And what
about a container herb garden or sunny b reakfast deck
off a cramped kitchen, reached through French or slid­
ing doors? If there are restrictions on fence height, pro­
tect your privacy with an arbor or overhead structure.
I nterior courtyard If you're designing a new home,
consider incorporating an interior courtyard, into your
design. If you're remodeling, perhaps your new living
space can enclose an existing patio area.
Porc h \1&'here summers swelter, the classic porch evokes
traditional indoor-outdoor living. In bug country, how­
ever, screened porches or sun rooms make sense. Some
porches can be shuttered when hard winds blow.
Reclai med driveway A driveway can double as a
masonry patio. Concrete turf blocks can support car
t raffic but yield a softer appearance than plain asphalt or
concrete. Planting smail spaces between pavers achieves
the same result. Enclosed by a gate, the front drive
becomes an entry courtyard.
OUTDOOR L I V I NG T A K E S M A NY S H A P E S 73
Deck Basics Storage bin can
CONSTRUCTION E S S E NTIALS be concealed under
a built-in bench.
A deck c a n be freestanding or, a s sllo\vn here, attached
to the house with a horizontal ledger. Concrete footings
secure precast piers or poured tubular pads, which
in turn support vertical wooden posts. One or more
horizontal beams span the posts; smaller joists bridge
ledger and beams. The decking itself, typically 1.; -by-6
or 2 - by-6 1umber, is nailed or screwed to the joists.
The design shown, while standard, is but one of
many options.
Overheads, benches, railings, and steps are often
i ntegral to a deck's framing. While you can often add
these extras later, it's simplest to design and build the
whole structure as a unit. While you're planning, think
about whether you'll need to install plumbing pipes
for running water or wiring for electric outlets and out­
door light fixtures. And i f you need extra storage space
or planters, build them into the deck as permanent
features.
When you build a deck as a do-it-yourself project,
much of the engineering work has already been done for
you. Standard span tables ( listing safe working spans by
dimension for each of the common lumber species) are
available at most lumberyards. Remember, however,
that these are minimum guidelines. For firmer footing,
choose beefier lumber or reduce the spacing between
them.
Posts taller than 3 feet may require bracing, espe­
cially in areas prone to high winds. Elevated decks must
be surrounded with railings for safety, with slats no more
than 4 to 6 inches apart (check building codes). Fascia
boards, skirts (see page 258), and other trim details can
d ress up the basic structure.
A low-level deck is the simplest kind to build, but
you may also be able to build a simpre raised deck,
like the one shown here. Generally, a deck that i s can­
tilevered out from a n upper story or over water or a
promontory must be designed by a qualified structural
engineer and installed by a p rofessional. A deck on a
steep hillside, unstable soil , or more than a story high
should receive the same professional attention. Fascia (trim)
For details on building a basic deck, see pages 234
and 2 3 5 .

74 PLACES TO S I T, WALK, AND PLAY

Planters on deck require adequate drainage; deck Doors to deck lead from dining or living Electric lighting and outlets
must support weight of soil and ptants. room. kitchen. or bedrooms. French or may be 120 volt or 1 2 volt and

Ledger secures deck to

house framing.

Beams bridge posts; they may be single

timbers or twin 2-by members that sandwich

Joists are Iypically spaced 1 6 or 24 inches

(center to center) and secured to ledger with
joist hangers.

IIIJ__---;;--,--,--- Posts are secured to piers with post anchors.

Local building codes set minimum post sizes and
spacings.

Piers are made of precast concrete

Rim joist secures and embedded in poured footings.

joist ends.
Poured concrete footings extend
below the frost line.

OECK BASICS 75
What's New with Lumber?
Lumber grades vary greatly in appearance and price, Grades Lumber is sorted a n d graded a t the mill.
so you have to determine the least expensive l umber for Generally, lumber grades represent several factors:
decking and trim that's acceptable to you. Whatever the natural growth characteristics (such as knots) ; defects
species and gt'ade of visible wood, use pressure-treated resulting from milling errors; and commercial drying
lumber for the substructure. I t stands u p to weather and preserving treatments that affect strength, durability,
and in-ground conditions and is less expensive, too. and appearance. The higher the grade, the better the
Because wood comes in so many sizes, species, wood-and the more you have to pay. One way to save
and grades, a visit to a Lowe's can be a daunting money o n your project is to choose the most appropriate
experience for the unin itiated . But after you under­ grade ( not necessarily the highest grade) for each ele­
stand a few basics, you can more easily get help with ment ( flooring, posts, trim, and so o n ) .
the fine points. Redwood is usually graded for its appearance a n d
for the percentage of heartwood versus sapwood it con­
Softwood or hardwood? All woods are one or the other. tains. Among pure heartwoods, clear all heart is the best
The terms don't refer to a wood's relative hardness, but grade, followed by B heart, construction heart, and mer­
to the kind of tree from which it comes. Softwoods come chantable heart. Cedar grades, starting with the highest
from evergreens (con ifers ) , hardwoods from broad­ quality, are architect clear, architect knotty, and custom
leaved ( deciduous) trees. Decks are generally built from knotty. These grades don't indicate whether the lumber
softwoods, such as coast redwood, red cedar, pine, and is heartwood or sapwood.
Douglas fir. However, economical offerings of hard­
woods, such as angico, mahogany, nyatoh, and planta­ R o u g h and s u rfaced l u m ber Most lumberyards handle
tion-grown teak (the boat builder's favorite), have both rough and surfaced lumber. Rough IW11ber tends to
recently entered the market. be available only in lower grades, with a correspondingly
greater number of defects and a higher moisture content.
Heartwood or sapwood? A wood's properties are Surfaced lumber, the standard for most construction and
determined by the part of the tree from which it came. a must for formal decking, comes in nearly all grades.
The inactive wood nearest the center o f a living tree is
called heartwood. Sapwood, next to the bark, contains
CONSTRUCTION
the growth cells. Heartwood is more resistant to decay;
sapwood is more porous and absorbs preserva­
tives and other chemicals more efficiently.
Among heartwoods, the most decay­
resistant and termite-proof species you can
buy are redwood and cedar. This durability,
combined with their natural beauty, makes them
favorites for decking. On the other hand, they are
softer, weaker, and more expensive than ordinary
structural woods, such as Douglas fir and southern
pine. To get the best of both worlds, most profes­
sional designers use fir or another structural wood for
a deck's substructure, but redwood or cedar for deck­
ing, benches, and railings. For any wood nearer than
6 inches to the ground or on concrete foundations,
however, choose decay-resistant heartwood or pres­
sure-treated wood.

76 PLACES TO S t T, WALK, AND PLAY

N o m i n a l and s u rfaced sizes Be aware that a finished Compared with redwood and cedar, which are easy to
2-by-4 isn't 2 inches thick by 4 inches wide. The nominal cut and nail or screw, treated wood is often hard and
size of lumber is designated before the piece is dried and brittle and more likely to warp or twist. Moreover, some
surfaced, so the finished size is smaller. Here are some people object to its typically greenish brown color
examples: ( applying a stain can conceal it) and the staplelike inci­
sions thar usually cover pressure-treated wood in the
2 -by-3 = 1 V, inches by 2V, inches \Xlest. Because the primary prese,·vative used cont" ins
2-by-4 = IV, inches by 3V, inches toxic chemicals, chromium and arsenic, never burn
2 -by·6 = IV, i.nches by 5V, inches treated lumber and always wear gloves, safety glasses,
4-by-4 = 3 V, inches by 3 V, inches and a dust mask when cutting it.

You may also encounter decking boards with thick­

ness designated i.n fractions-for example, 5;' . This tradi­
tional hardwood term means five-quarrer or a nominal ECO-SMART ALTER NATIVES
l Y.. inches (-Y., indicates a I - inch thickness) . The actual
thickness of these surfaced boards is usually abour Y..
inch less than the nominal measurements.

Treated l u m ber Although redwood and cedar heart·

wood are naturally somewhat resistant to decay and
termites, other woods that contact the ground or trap
water may quickly rot and lose their strength. For this
reason, southern pine and western hem/fir (a commer­
cial designation for wood of either western hemlock
or one of several true firs) are often factory-treated with
CCA (chroma ted copper arsen ate) preservative to pro­
tect them from rot, insects, and other sou rces of decay.
These woods are generally less expensive and in many
areas are more readily available than redwood or cedar.
They can be used for su rface decking as well as for
structural members, such as posts, beams, and joists.
Working with treated lumber isn't always a pleasure.
Shrinking forests and dwindling supplies of quality lumber
have encouraged the development of both environmentally sen­
sitive wood products and engineered materials suitable for
decks and other garden structures. To protect the environment,
consider woods other than the best grades of redwood and
cedar, which generally come from the oldest trees. Instead,
seek out plantation-grown woods or those from certified forests
or look for suppliers of salvaged lumber from orchards or
demolished buildings.
Some manufacturers are also combining landfill-bound
wood with waste plastic to produce wood-polymer composites.
These weatherproof products can be used for decking and rail­
ings. Available in several colors, they can also be painted or
stained and cut, drilled, and shaped the way standard lumber
can. For families with young children, these synthetic boards
have the additional advantage of being splinter-free.

DECK BASICS 77
Hardware and Finishes
Nails, screws, and metal framing connectors are essential t o b e damaged
for building projects. Without them, it would be difficult d u ring installation,
to hold anything together. and using them
eliminates hammer
N a i l s For outdoor construction, use hot-dipped galva­ dents i n your deck-
nized, aluminuIll , or stainless steel nails because they ing. Moreover, they are
resist rust. Common and box nails are similar. The surprisingly easy to drive into
thicker shank on common softwoods, such as cypress
nails makes them more diffi­ and cedar, especially if
EQUIVALENTS IN cult to drive but increases you use an electric drill
INCHES their holding power. Both o r screw gun with an
FOR THE MOST
types are sold in boxes adjustable clutch
COMMON NAILS
0 , 5 , or 50 pounds) or loose and a Phillips tip.
ARE AS FOLLOWS:
in bins. Standard nail sizes Screws are
= 4d rY:>-inch are given in " pennies" (penny not rated for shear
6d 2-inch
is abbreviated as " d , " from (or hanging) strength,
=

= 8d 2Y:>-inch
the Latin denarius) . The so use nails, lag screws, or bolts to fasten
IOd 3-inch
=

1 6d 3Y:>-inch
=
higher the penny number, the heavy members such as joists to
20d 4-i n c h
=
longer the nail. beams. The heavy-duty lag screw
Choose nails whose has a square or hexagonal head
length is two to three times that you tighten with a wrench o r
the thickness of the material th rough which you will be a ratchet and socket.
nailing. Most decking, fence, and overhead framing For decks, choose screws that
should be secured with 8d and 1 6d nails. are long enough to penetrate
joists at least as deep as the
Dec k screws Although they're more expensive than decking is thick (for 2 -by-
nails, galvanized deck screws have several advantages: 4 o r 2 -by-6 decking, buy
They don't pop up as readily, their coating is less likely 3 -inch screws ) .

LEFT: Bolts/nails include (left to

right): carriage bolt, lag screw,
stainless-steel screw, deck
screw, ring shank nail, common
nail, finishing nail.
RIGHT: Framing connectors
and hardware include (from top):
post anchors, deck post ties,
earthquake straps, rigid tie
corner, decorative post
tops, rigid flat tie, and
joist hangers.

78 PLACES TO S I T, WALK, A Na PLAY

Fra m i ng con nectors At left are several
framing connectors. Galvanized metal con­
nectors can help prevent lumber splits
caused by toenailing [Wo boards together.
To attach connectors, be sure to use the
fasteners specified by the manufactu rer.
To eliminate visible fasteners, deck
clips can be nailed to the sides of decking
lumber and secured to joists. In addition
to remaining hidden between the deck
boards, these clips also elevate the boards
slightly off the joist, discouraging the rot
that wood-to-wood contact may breed.
Unfortunately, the clips are more expensive
to buy and take more time to install than
nails or screws.
Bolts For heavy-duty fastening, choose
bolts. Most are zinc-plated steel, but alu­
minum and brass ones are also available.
You need to predrill holes for the bolts,
and then secure them with nurs.
Machine bolts have square or hexago­
nal heads that must be tightened with a
wrench. Carriage bolts have self-anchoring
heads that dig into the wood as you tighten
the nut. To secure wooden ledgers to
masonry walls, use expanding anchor bolts.
Bolts are classified by diameter (Ys to 1
inch) and length (% inch and up). To give
the nut a firm bite, select a bolt Y, to 1 inch
longer than the combined thickness of the
pieces to be joined.
D E C K F I N I S H ES
Where deck members come in contact with
soil or are embedded in concrete, there's
no substitute for decay-resistant wood like
heart redwood or pressure- treated lumber. Applying a
water repellent, a semitransparent stain, or a solid-color
stain can, however, protect other parts of a deck and
p reserve the wood's beauty.
Whatever product you choose, try it on a sample
board before committing your entire deck to it. Always
read labels. Some products should not be applied over
new wood; others may require the application of a
sealer first.
Water repellents Also known as water sealers, these
products protect wood decking. Clear sealers won't color
wood, but they darken it slightly. They allow the wood to
gradually fade to a neutral gray. They
come in either oil- or water-based versions.
Many formulations include protection
against sun damage and mildew. Some
brands come in slightly tinted, dye-color
verSions.
Don't use clear surface finishes, such
as spar varnish or polyurethane, on decks.
They wear quickly and are hard to renew
after a year or two. They're also expensive.
Clear wood preservative with UV
protection These protect your deck from
water and prevent graying. Clear wood
preservative is often used on cedar and
redwood decks to preserve the original
color. Oil-based preservatives can last for
up to [wo years.
S e m i transparent sta i n s These stains
contain enough pigment to tint the wood's
surface but not enough to mask the natu ­
ral grain completely. You can find both
water- and oil-based versions. UsuaUy
the application of one coat is sufficient.
Besides stains in traditional gray and wood
tones, you'll find products for reviving a
deck's color or for dressing up pressure-
treated wood.
When choosing a stain, remember that
finished color varies depending on the
kinds of stain and wood. If applying a new
stain over an old one, choose colors that
are similar to or darker than the original.
Test the color in an inconspicuous area to
ensure proper color. Redwood and cedar
contain pigments that may bleed to the
su rface. On these woods, use a dark stain
that makes the bleeding less noticeable. These stains
require recoating every two to three years.
S o l i d -color sta i n s These are essentially paints; their
heavy pigments cover the wood's grain completely. You
can usually get any available paint color mixed into a
solid deck-stain base. But even though these products
are formulated to withstand foot traffic, you'll probably
have to renew them frequently.
Shown from top to bottom are four wood finishes on redwood: unfinished
redwood, clear water sealer, tinted-oil-base repellent, semitransparent
gray stain, and red solid-color stain.
DECK BASICS 79

Making it Practical, Liveable, and Safe
Don't forget the custom touches that can turn a deck
into a comfortable outdoor room. For lllore ideas and
information about furnishing a deck, see Chapter 1 0
beginning on page 272.
L i g h t i n g Safety, security, and decor can all be improved
with good outdoor lighting. The only restriction i.s to
keep both glare and wattage at a low level. Because the
contrast between darkness and a light source is so great,
glare can be a problem at night. Follow three rules:
choose shielded fixtures, place fixtures out of sight lines,
and lower overall light levels, because a little light goes a
long way at night. YO I l (":In choose a standard 1 20-volt
system or use a low-voltage scheme.
80 PLACES TO S I T. WA ANO PLAY
Built for entertaining large crowds, this two-level redwood deck features
a built-in sofa. The edge of the upper deck forms the seat; the planter
provides back support. Verticals in the ra i l ing are copper pipe.
F u r n iture When arranging for seating o n your deck,
opt for portable patio furniture, built-ins, or both .
Built-ins supplement portable patio furniture and free
up floor space for other uses. Build benches into wide
steps or t ransitions between levels. Make them from
nonslip masonry, wood, or metal and plan carefully for
drainage. For fun, add overhead support for a porch
swing or hammock.
Pla nters Portable containers can bring annuals and
perennials, shrubs, and even vegetables to your most
favorable location. On the other hand, built-in planting
spaces lend a custom look to your structure. Add formal
masonry beds or leave planting pockets between paved
areas ( ru n drip tubing below the surface for irrig,ltion ).
Incorporate planters inro steps or level ch'1I1ges.
R a i l i ngs Well-designed railings provide safetv and
enhance a deck's appean1l1ce. To coordinate railings with
the house, use similar materials and detailing and per­
sonalize them by adding decorative details. RaLiings are
generally required for decks over 30 inches high and for
flights of stairs 5 feet or narrower. However, rails are a
good addition ro any deck above grouncl level, especially
if it will be used by small children. Railings are generally
at least 36 inches high. However, a higher railing-up ro
-12 inches-feels safer. Code generally requires that -rhe
structure have no gaps big enough to accept a -1-inch
sphere: this ensures that an infant can't slip through.
TOP LEFT: With a saber saw and a great imagination, the owner of this
deck gave whimsical shapes to alternating 1 Y2- by 4-inch cedar rails.
TOP RIGHT: Next to a redwood deck, a water garden is fed by a built-in
fountain. Annuals billow from surrounding planters.
BOTTOM LEFT: An added safety feature, deck lights turn on
automatically at dusk, illuminating steps and other deck surfaces.
BOTTOM RIGHT: A protective gate matches the wooden ra i l i ng style of
this narrow deck while creating a safety barrier for a steep stairway.
OECK BASICS 81
Patio Planning
( l{( )O',J r-..; c; s u m AU :-" S "I YLE S , A N D A C C E S SORIES
The first step in planning a patio is to focus clearly on
your family's needs and habits. Think about the way you
spend your leisure time. Consider your lifestyle. Do you
frequently entertain outdoors) If so, do you p refer casual
or formal entertaining? How much time do you want to
spend gardening and maintaining your yard? Do you
h<lve pets that m<ly damage fr<lgile patio plants and furni ­
ture) You r answers t o these questions will determine
some basic design elements for your patio.
Next, evaluate your garden's assets and liabilities.
Even if you plan to enlist the services of a landscape
architect or other professional, you need to have a good
understanding of your existing landscape. Can the patio
capitalize on a beautiful view? Is your property bounded
by woods? Perhaps the design can take advantage of a
sunny southern exposure, mature plantings, or one
worthwhile element, such as an attractive tree.
Also consider potential handicaps. Is your lot on a
steep slope? How much of the lot is exposed to street
traffic and noise? Does your present patio open off the
A private patio offers i nformal seating and quiet views among small
trees and shrubs and plants i n raised and i n-ground beds. Brick,
fieldstone, and gravel surfaces set off the different areas.
wrong room, get roo much sun or shade, or lack suffi­
cient space? You'll want ro plan a patio that minimizes
your yard's special problems.
The patio's exact location will depend largely on
the size and conrour of your lot, the way your house is
sited, your preferred uses for the patio, and your climate.
For details on how to build a basic patio, see
pages 224 and 2 3 2 .
S U C C E SS F U L PAT I O D E S I G N
Regardless o f the size o f your lot and the landscaping
problems your property may present, successful patio
design depends ro a large extent upon the following five
key elements:
Flex i b i l ity You r design needs ro accommodate activities
important to your family.
Privacy As an extension of your indoor space, the
patio should offer a similar feeling of privacy (see
page 1 17) .
Comfort You'll be most comfortable on a patio designed
with your area's climate in mind.
LEFT: Small-scale furniture and flowering plants transform a small front
entryway into a welcoming brick patio.
TOP RIGHT: Indoor comfort outdoors! An elegant brick fireplace provides
a dramatic backdrop to a seating area and doubles as a barbecue.
BOTTOM RIGHT: Locating a patio and seating area away from the house
but still visible from it creates a relaxing focal point i n the garden.
Safety Paving materials have different properties.
Some, for example, become slippery when wet; others
are too sharp or uneven for children or for playing
games. Consider the safety of traffic patterns from
house to patio and from garden to patio. Provide
adequate lighting at steps and along garden paths.
Beauty Successful patios create a balance in an overall
garden scheme. Materials should blend with those in the
house, and colors and textures should harmonize with
the landscaping and other decorative accents.
PAT I O P L A NN I N G 83

Setting a Style
When choosing a patio environment, decide whether
you want something formal or informal. Formal land­
scapes are typically symmetrical, with straight lines,
geometric patterns, and near-perfect balance. They often
include neatly sheared hedges or topiaries and a foun­
tain, pool, or sculpture. In addition, formal patios are
always well maintained. Small rectangular plots are
suited to the medieval knot-garden style, with brick or
stone pathways and formal plantings radiating from a
central foundation or sculpture. By replacing the brick
or stone with adobe and tile, the style becomes Spanish.
Concrete lends a slightly industria'! look to a formal patio
garden. Seeded aggregate, smooth-troweled, and tex­
tured concrete are modern in feel.
Informal styles, on the other hand, tend toward
curves, asymmetry, and apparent randomness. These
84 PLACES TO SIT, WALK, ANO PLAY
Contemporary style can b e achieved with little effort-ground-Ievel
recessed lights highlight color-washed patio walls. Mini malist
accessories accentuate the simple lines of the table and chairs.
patios are often easier to maintain. Adjacent plantings
are usually more informal, as well. Contemporary
designs may feature multilevel surfaces, planters,
overheads, a swimming pool, or low-maintenance
plantings. I rregular flagstone or mossy bricks laid in
sand offer a softer cottage garden look, as do spaced
concrete pavers, especially if you plant ground cover
between the pavers.
Raked gravel that imitates swirling water, carefully
placed boulders, a fountain, and a hidden garden bench
or bridge are all trademarks of a Japanese garden.
In desert climates, the patio can function as a
retreat from heat and noise. To keep the air cool and
moist, incorporate overheads and screens, and a foun­
tain or a waterfall. Keep plants lush with drip or
spray emitters.
LAN D S CA P I N G P R I N C I P L E S
Whatever type o f outdoor surface you choose, let basic
landscaping p rinci ple s guide your thinking. These
p rinciples are abstract concepts, such as unitv. variety,
proportion, and balance. Return to these principles
repeatedly as your plan develops. For more examples
of how these concepts affect landscape design, see
Chapter 5, beginning on page 1 -1-1 .
Here are examples of how some of these ideas
apply to the design of your p a t io
.
U n ity Unity means that everything looks as if it belongs
together. Paving, overhead structu res, and screens com · TOP RI GHT: Different paving materials and lIower-fi lied planting pockets
plemem each other; furniture suits the patio's architec·
tural style; and the patio's plants relate to each other and
t o other plams in the landscape.
Unity between the patio and house is an important
consideration, too. If, for example, your patio is b u i l t
off a casual-style kitchen, the patio shou l d h ,lve the
same feeling.
Variety Variety keeps unity from becoming monoto·
nous. A good design offers an element of surprise: a
path that leads from a large main terrace to a more
intimate one, a plant display that brings the g'lrden
TOP LEFT: An outdoor hearth with sofa and chair drawn u p to it makes
an idyllic sanctuary i n all seasons, both day and night.
create a private area adjacent to an active swimming pool.
BOTTOM: Colorful squash and potted plants add an autumn touch to this
patio, tiled in earthy tones to match the house.
i n t o the patio, a subtl e wall fo u n t ain that gives dimen­
sion t o a s m all Since, or t rees that provide varying
degrees of ligh t at diFferent times of day.
You can make use of variety on vertical planes, [00.
Patios that step up or step down, low walls, raised beds,
privacy screens, and container plants of varying heights
help d nl\v the eye away from a vertical expanse.
Proportion Proportion demands that the patio's structure
be in scale with your house and garden. Keep in mind that
'IS outdoor rooms, patios are built on a different scale than
indoor rooms. Although many patios are scaled to the
size of the living room, don't be afraid to design some­
thing larger. Ou tdoor furniture usually rakes u p more
86 PLACES TO S I T, WALK. ANO PLAY
room than indoor pieces, and you may want room for
containers of plants, [00. (Choose plants with their
mature sizes in mind.)
There are sensible limits, however. I f your lor is so
big that you need a large patio [0 keep everything in
scale, try [0 create a few smaller areas within the l a rger
whole. For example, squares of plants inset in paving
LEFT: Overhead timbers, supported on massive posts, harmonize with the
natural surroundings, softening and shadi ng the patio's hard surfaces.
TOP RIGHT: Formal brick patio mirrors the traditional lines of this stucco
house. Even the handrails match the house trim.
BOTTOM RIGHT: Mossy stone patio blends almost seamlessly with its
shady surroundings. The plantings mimic Mother Nature, too.
break up a monoronous surface. Use plantings or
fences to divide one large area inro one or more
functional spaces.
To maintain proportion in a small patio, keep
the design simple and uncluttered-clean lines make
elements seem larger. Stepped planting beds lead the eye
up and out of a confined area. Tall vertical screens used
to enclose a small area actually make it appear larger, as
does such a solid paving material like brick, with its
small-scale repetitive pattern.
Balance Balance is achieved when elements are artfully
combined ro produce the same visual weight on both
sides of a center of interest. For example, if a mature
tree shades one side of your patio, balance the tree's
weight with perimeter benches on the other side.
O R I E N TAT I O N TO T H E S U N
Another consideration as you plan your patio is weather.
Exposure to the sun is one of the most important factors
in your enjoyment of outdoor space. Knowing the sun's
path may prompt you ro adjust the site of the patio,
extend its dimensions, or change its design in order to
add a few weeks or months of sun or shade to your out­
door room. Often, the addition of a patio roof can mod­
erate the sun's effects.
Reflecting the fa9ade of the house, this patio of brick set in sand has an
informal look. Despite the patio's expansiveness-which means no grass
to mow-the herringbone pattern lends a sense of containment.
Theoreti cally, a north-facing patio is cold because it
rarely receives the sun. A south -facing patio is usually
warm because, from sunrise ro sunset, the sun never
leaves it. A patio on the east side is cool, receiving only
morning sun. And a west-facing patio is often unbearably
hot because it receives the full force of the sun's midafter­
noon rays. In addition, late-afternoon sun often creates a
harsh glare.
Generally, the patio temperature will foUow this
north-south-east-west rule. Exceptions occur in climates
where extreme summer or winter temperatures are pre­
dictable. For example, mid-J uly temperatures in Phoenix
regularly climb above 1 00"F, and a north-facing patio
there could hardly be considered cold. In San Francisco,
on the other hand, a patio with a southern or western
exposure could hardly be considered hot because chilly
fogs and stiff ocean breezes are common during the sum­
mer months.
For more about planning your landscape and its
orientation to the sun, see page 1 5 2 .
PAT I O PLANNING 87
 This wood-fired outdoor oven sees plenty o f pizza baking and chicken
roasting. The carefully crafted granite structure houses a prefabricated
oven insert, a chimney, a wood bin, and even a digital timer.

Dining Outdoors
An outdoor dining area is often the centerpiece of an
attractive patio o r deck and can double as a sewing spot
or as a perfect place to play board games and enjoy other
leisurely activities.
A functional and inviting outdoor dining area
incorporates a careful balance of many of the site con-
siderations and structural and design elements described
in this book. For example, ensuring privacy, sufficient
shade, and shelter from the elements-with shade trees,
overhead structures, screening, and fences-will add
significantly to your enjoyment of the space. Defining the
area with colorful plantings also adds appeal. In general,

88 PLACES TO S IT. WALK. AMD PLAY

cool colors are relaxing and medirarive, while warm
colors creare an energized, acrive space,
Furnirure is also imporranr and is available in a wide P LAN N I N G YO U R D I N I N G SPACE
variery of marerials, From wroughr iron to wicker, vour
Whatever your choice of
choices should fir rhe space and blend well wirh the Sur­
furniture, you need to figure
roundings. For sunny spots, a large umbrella is likely a
out how best to use available
necessity.
space. Be sure to leave
Outdoor dining rooms are most useful when loca ted
enough room
within easy access of the house. If you have a large prop­
for people to
erty, however, you may decide 10 create yours in a more
maneuver
remote location for secluded and private functions.
around the
dining table
and other
furniture to serve and
TOP LEFT: In mild climates, a tiled outdoor kitchen is a colorful
remove food. The i l lustration
alternative to wood or stone. This kitchen has a built-in gri ll.
here shows one exa mple of how
TOP RIGHT: Board fence and mature shrubs and vines lend privacy to
to calculate clearances around
this dining area.
BOTTOM LEFT: Stone hearth is the focal point of this outdoor kitchen and
furn iture.
Side passage t
dining room, which incl udes wood storage, a sink, and a refrigerator. 22" t
BOTTOM RIGHT: Brightly colored tablecloth accents cozy di ning nook
(handicapped 32")
hidden i n a brick-paved rose garden. Potted plants add soft accents.
Paving Options
OPTION S E N O UG H TO S U IT E V E RY S ITUATION
Patios, steps, paths, and other paved ar_eas a r e often
defined by their surface material, and with good reason.
Whether gentle, rustic adobe; warm, traditional brick;
or sleek, stamped concrete; a patio's surface is its defin­
ing characteristic, giving it its style. The illustrations at
right show how the same patio area can take on a differ­
ent look, depending on what material is used.
Although the surface is what most people first
notice about a path or patio, there are other essential
elements, too. Most patios have an edging, which serves
both to visually define the borders and to physically
contain the su rface material. Edgings allow various
effects. For example, you can subtly define the borders
of a brick patio by using bricks placed on end or, to
boldly emphasize the patio's outline, choose wood
stained in a contrasting color to the bricks. Some mate­
rials, such as stone, are structurally stable without
edgings so that a patio can blend seamlessly into the
surrounding lawn or garden. For more on edgings, see
pages 92 and 93 .
A ptoperly constructed foundation is also essential
to a well-constructed patio. Depending on the surface
material you choose, an appropriate foundation may be
a sand bed, compacted gravel, a concrete slab, or even
stable undisturbed soil. No matter what type of founda­
tion, careful preparation is crucial for a long-lasting
patio.
In some cases, steps and walkways are a necessary
part of a plan. A walkway is basically j ust a long, narrow
patio and may be all you need to unify other structural
elements. For example, an existing deck near the house
can connect with a new water garden planned in a far
corner of the yard.
Steps may be crucial elements, espe}:ially on a
sloping lot. If you decide to level an area for a patio,
you may need steps to lead up or down to it. Sometimes,
the easiest way to tame a slope is to build a terraced
walkway, which is a series of narrow patios connected
by steps that rise up the slope one level at a time.
S E L E CT I N G T H E S U R FA C E
T h e style of y o u r patio, whether formal or casual,
depends a lot on the surface material. Choose a material
90 PLACES TO S I T, WALK, ANO PLAY
i n keeping with the style o f your house a n d garden. Here
are some factors to keep in mind when choosing paving
materials.
S u rface texture Smooth, shiny surfaces can be slippery
when wet. Rougher surfaces are too absorbent for use
where spills are likely, such as near a barbecue. Smooth
surfaces are best for dancing, while games require mate­
rials with more traction. A soft surface is fine for foot
t raffic , but a hard-wearing one is a must if furniture m a y
be dragged across it.
Appeara nce Consider your p references in color, texture,
pattern, and reflective quality. Dull surfaces mean less
glare on the sunny side of the house; shiny ones can
catch the light on the shady side.
M a i ntenance Most surfaces can be simply hosed down
or swept, but some show dirt more than others and
need more frequent attention_ Large mortar joints may
trap debris but have the advantage of shedding water
easily. Sand joints are easy to maintain but may allow
weeds to grow.
D u ra b i l ity While bricks are extremely resistant to wear
from norma] use, consider the effects of climate. On sta­
ble soil in regions where soil doesn't freeze, bricks set in
sand make a permanent patio. But for sinlilar durability
in areas where soil regularly freezes, add a 4-inch-deep
base of compacted gravel below the sand . Without that
extra gravel base in cold climates, bricks will move in
winter and need resetting in spring.
Cost It's not just the cost of the materials that affects
the cost of paving. If you want a material not common
in your area, for example, you'll have to include the
expense of having it shipped from elsewhere. Labor
costs may vary for the different installation methods. For
some materials, doing all or some of me work yourself
may save labor costs.
S ix Favorite Pavers
In this corner of a hypothetical patio you can see how origin (or that look like they might be). As you might
paving is likely to effect a patio's look and feel . The imagine, many variations of each of these six types is
best advice is to pave with materials that are local in available.

STONE: Depending on the color and shape chosen, stone can provide BRICK: This traditional surface harmonizes with many garden styles.
various effects, from rugged and rough-hewn to more formal.

, . .....

LOOSE MATERIALS: Very casual in feel, loose materials (such as smooth INTERLOCKING PAVERS: These easy-to-install units, made of concrete,
stones, gravel, and wood chips) are usually less expensive, but also less are available in contemporary patterns and colors.
permanent, than more solid materials, and they're harder to keep clean.

CAST CONCRETE: Modern finishing techniques, such as coloring and ADOBE: The rounded, massive blocks lend a casual feel, especially when
stamping, give concrete a variety of looks, from i mitation stone to a softened with crevice plantings.
sleek architectural finish.

PAT I O P L A NNING 91
Edges for Paths and Patios
SOMETIMES AN OPTI O N , B U T O F T E N E S SE N T I A L
Although edgings m a y n o t be t h e most obvious part o f the heartwood o f cedar o r red­
a path or patio, they are an important element . Edgings wood, is your best choice
serve three main purposes: They contain the patio or for edgings that will last
path material, they serve as a transition between the as long as the patio
paving and surrounding landscaping, and they're a dec­ surface material.
orative element in their own right. To make curved
Some sur- edgings, use
face materials, flexible bender­
such as bricks board. Very tight
or pavers laid curves can be
in sand or loose formed with
surface materi­ pieces of sheet
als, require an metal or plastic. WOODEN POSTS
edging. But Heavy timbers make strong, sho,vy edgings and
even when interior dividers, especially when drilled and held in
they're not place with steel pipe, as illustrated for railroad ties on
structurally nec­ this page.
essary, edgings I n addition t o rustic timbers, wood posts or logs
add an attractive i n diameters ranging from 2 t o 6 inches can form a
finish to a project. series of miniature pilings. Set them vertically, butted
They can define edges tightly together, with their ends set underground in a
and perhaps visually u nify the area with other landscap­ concrete footing. Pack soil around the pilings. A hori­
ing features. zontal 2 -byA or 2 -by-6 cap across the top prolongs the
Edgings can also visually link disparate elements in life of the edging b y keeping water out of the end grain
the landscape. Using brick to edge a lawn, an exposed­ of the posts.
aggregate patio, or a gravel path, for example, unifies BRICKS IN
the overall design. Edgings can also connect different B r i c k edgings The SOIL
areas of a garden: A brick-edged patio, for example, easiest masonry
may taper off to a brick path that leads to another patio edgings to build
area, again edged with brick. are of bricks in
STEEL PIPE ANCHOR soil. Bricks are
Wood edgings set in a narrow
The most trench around the
common type edges of the patio
of wood edg­ area. As much of
ing is made the brick as possi-
of dimension ble should extend
lwnber, such below the surface level of
as 2-byAs or the patio. Set the bricks verti-
2-by-6s. Wood cally or angle them slightly for a toothed effect.
that's resistant Unfortunately, only very firm soil will hold the bricks in
to rot, such as pres­ place without mortar, so brick-in-soil edgings are not
sure-treated lumber or possible ever)'\vhere.

92 PLACES TO S I T, WALK, ANO PLAY

 Another option FORM SCREEO
IS LENGTH
stones directly on the soil, filling the spaces between
is invisible edg­ OF BRICK with smaller rocks. Pack the area with soil and add
ing, actually a ��;;:::-J����:J� plantings for a more natural look. Irregularly shaped
small under­ stones blend well with loose materials. More formal
ground concrete paving units will probably need to be cut to fit around
footing that the boulders.
secures paving
units without Plastic edgings
any visual support. Manufactured plastic
Paving units set into the edgings are an easy­
surface of freshly cast concrete to-install option. The
conceal the footing. The completed patio appears to strips secure bricks
have no edging at all. or concrete pavers
When using bricks set in sand as the patio surface, below the level of
you can create an invisible edging by simply setting the the finished paving.
edge bricks in wet mortar. This allows you to continue After the paving is
the pattern for the patio at a small fraction of the work completed, the
and expense. strips can be con­
Casting footings for invisible edgings is relatively cealed with soil or
easy. The forms are small-just wide enough to take one sod, creating a patio
b rick-and the amount of concrete you'll need is fairly or path that has no visible edging. Flexible sections are
easy to mix and place. available for tight curves, but rigid strips can be made
to hancUe gentle curves if you kerf ( partially cut) their
Stone edgings A rustic or edges. Secure plastic edgings with 1 0- to 1 2 -inch spikes
woodsy landscape or follow manufacturer's installation instructions.
may provide a
good setting for Concrete edgings Similar to invisible edgings (see Brick
edgings made edgings, facing page), these create a patio area with well­
of cut flag­ defined limits. These edgings might be a good choice if
stone or concrete is used elsewhere in the garden, such as on a
a more infor­ path leading up to the patio.
mal edging of Concrete edging serves
rocks and boul­ to retain the paving units, 1-'-
··-
��·"""'''''I\.\t-.
�l!.ul!Jl!.:
ders. If your but it also functions as a
design includes a mowing strip for a
garden pond, a patio that's adjacent
stone edging around to a lawn. Running
both the patio area and the lawn mower's
the edge of the pond can integrate the two areas, even if wheels along the con­
the project itself is surfaced with another material. crete edging allows
Before laying flagstone or other small stones, cutting the grass right
arrange them in a pleasing pattern, cutting them, if nec­ up to the edge of the
essary. Lay the stones in a l -inch-thick bed of mortar. patio, reducing the need
Usually, large uncut rocks and boulders look best in for trimming the edges. CONCRETE MOWING STRIP
edgings if they're at least partially buried; dig a hole to
the appropriate depth for each stone. Otherwise, lay the

EDGES FOR PATHS AND P AT I O S 93

Paths Lead the Way
THEy 'RE PRACTICAL E S S E N TI A L S , B U T E N T I CI N G , TOO
Paths give structure t o the garden a n d direction t o i t s visi­
tors. They also invite you into a garden or through it, per­
haps for a look at some roses that have just opened near
the birdbath or for a sniff of the honeysuckle whose scen t
wafts from a sunny spot by the pond. And when tufts of
moss or creeping thyme grow between their pavers, paths
urge you to slow down for a look underfoot.
Even if you do nothing, paths will even tually make
themselves. Cut across the lawn enough times to get to
the mailbox, the compost pile, or the gate, and soon a
path of flattened grass marks a trail. Before that hap­
pens, map out the circulation patterns in your garden
and draw a plan-one that allows j ust enough twists
and rurns to reveal the garden slowly, area by area. A
garden can do with a little mystery, which serpentine
paths provide.
94 PLACES TO S I T, WALK, ANO PLAY
F o r details on how to build a basic path, see
instructions on page 248.
Keep the following rules in mind when planning and
building paths.
Choose the right m a teria l s The most durable paths
are designed for use in all weather. This means good
drainage when it's wet and good traction when it's icy.
G ravel and crushed rock are nearly perfect for varied
conditions, as are loose-laid b rick and pavers, and
slightly crowned ( h igher in the center) paths of textured
concrete, brick, or stone.
A gravel path leads through a n arbor and disappears around a bend,
lending an a i r of mystery and beckoning visitors. The loose surface
suits the garden's informal style in which plants crowd the path.
TOP: The wide, even surface of this flagstone path eases walking
through the landscape, lighting allows for nighttime strolls,
BOTTOM RIGHT: The path itself is the focal point here, Its mix of shapes,
textures, and materials draws the eye through the garden,

Use solid paths Use brick, concrete, pavers, or s[Qne

for routes that you're likely [Q travel barefoot (the path
from hot rub to house, for example), so your wet feet
won't pick up din, Use bark or gravel in places that call
for a more natural look.

Make it wide enough Main paths should be wide

enough for two people [Q walk side by side: 4 [Q 5 feet
is about right. Small subsidiary paths should be wide
enough for a wheelbarrow (handles have a 24- [Q 30-
inch spread): 2 feet is a generous minimum, as long as
plants don't crowd the edges, Organize a nerwork of
paths like a river system, with smaller paths branching
off larger ones,

Add plants wherever poss i b l e Allow some space

benveen pavers, stones, or bricks in which [Q plant
thyme or orher low creepers, Amend the soil well so
that plants can establish roots; it should be on the sandy
side, so it won't become packed down wirh foot traffic
and kill the plant's roots, Don't ruck plants in paths
used for main walkways or where snow removal will be
necessary.

PATHWAY CLEARANCE BENCH CLEARANCE

<.

MAIN PATHWAY SIDING WALKING

PATHS LEAO THE WAY 95


Brick Paths and Walkways
Brick is pL'Obably the most adaptable and frequently
used patio su rfacing material available. Set in sand o r
mortar, brick pL'Ovides a handsome s urface that blends
with nearly any architectural style and looks at ease in
almost any setting.
Bricks are available in a range of colors, sizes, and
finishes and can be laid in a number of patterns, fL'Om
basic to complex. You can combine patterns in striking
combinations to put an individual stamp on your patio
or path. Some patterns and combinations are shown on
page 99.
Brick does have disadvantages, however. Cost per
square foot runs higher than for most alternative materi­
als. I f you lay bricks i n sand, you may have to rework the
96 PLACES TO S I T. WALK. ANO PLAY
Bricks are extremely versatile. They can be mortared or laid on sand and
arranged i n a wide variety of patterns and colors. This garden path was
made with used brick pavers laid in a basket·weave design.
patio from time t o time i f frost heave ( i rregular buckling
o r swelling) raises some of the bricks. Also, you may
occasionally need to spend time pulling weeds that
have pushed thL'Ough the joints. This problem can be
reduced by laying landscaping fabric beneath the bricks.
I f the bricks are poorly installed, the s urface can be
j arringly uneven. Also, bricks i n moist, heavily shaded
garden areas can become slick with moss.
B R I C K TY P E S
Although brick's basic form a n d composition have
remained unchanged for thousands of years, today's
builder can choose from an almost bewildering variety
of colors, textures, and shapes.
 Bricks are made of various clay and shale Illixtures
that are forced through a die and cut to size with wires.
The kiln-firing process, although Illuch im proved over B R I CK SAM P L E R
the last century, still produces some bricks, called
clinkers, that have irregularities caused by inappropriate
firing. They Illay have an uneven su rface and flashed
patches from overburning. Use them for paving or as
accents to give a rough cobblestone effect.
People like the familiar color and texture of cOllllllon
building brick. They are reasonably uniforlll in size and Molded i s made 10 Flashed has
color (length may vary by as Illuch as Y; inch) and Illost look like cobblestone color patterns
economical. The rough faces of cOlll lllon brick create a
nonglare surface with good traction. The su rface is
porous and readily absorbs water. As the water evapo­
Repressed chamfered
rates, it cools the air and gives a cool feeling underfoot.
Unfortunately, it will just as readily absorb spilled bever­
ages, oil, grease, and paint-all of which may be difficult
to remove. In addition, in freezing climates, the Illoisture
the bricks absorb can crack thelll.
Paver or hard-burned bricks are baked at a higher Used is getting Common is rough and
temperature for a longer time so are harder than COIll­ hard to find provides good traction
mon building brick. They make a metallic sound when
struck by a hammer, compared to a dull, wooden sound
produced by striking common brick.
Wire-cut brick is square cut and has a rough texture

LEFT: Walkway of salvaged brick curves past oakleaf hydrangea, hostas, Replica used is Bullnose is for pool
and lady's mantle and under an arbor on the way to the backyard. made 10 look old coping or stair treads
RIGHT: Brick paving laid in geometrical patterns is interplanted with
creeping perennials. Flowers, ferns, and water plants soften the edges.

P A T H S LE A D THE WAY 97
with little pit marks on its face. If you want a smooth
surface, lay it to expose the edge. Face brick is more
consistent in size and color but is also more expensive.
Use them for attractive accents, edgings, and raised
beds-anywhere that its smooth surface doesn't present
a safety hazard.
Used brick, which may be common or face, has
uneven surfaces and streaks of old mortar that can make
an attractive informal pavement. Taken from old build­
ings and walls, these bricks are usually in short supply.
Many manufacturers are now creating new bricks that
look like used bricks by chipping them and splashing
them with mortar and paint. Man ufactured replica
bricks cost about the same as the genuine article but are
easier to find. They're also more consistent in quality
than most older bricks.
Precut bricks in special shapes are a boon for you if
you're venturing into more complicated bricklaying pat­
terns. Tacks, quoins, bats, sinkers, traps, and spikes are
just some of the traditional names for these. Expect to
pay about the same price per precut brick as for a full­
size brick, but keep in mind that if you had to cut bricks
to these shapes, you'd need the expertise of a highly
skilled mason.
98 PLACES TO S IT, WALK, AND PLAY
BRICK S IZES
Most brick i s made i n modular sizes-that is, the length
and width are simple divisions or multiples of each other.
This simplifies planning, ordering, and fitting. The stan­
dard modular brick measures 8 inches long by 4 inches
wide by 2 YJ inches high. Many other modular sizes­
from 4 by 12 inches to 12 by 1 6 inches in various thick­
nesses-are available. Note that all these dimensions are
nominal. They include the width of a standard Y, - inch
mortar joint , so the actual dimensions of the brick are
reduced accordingly.
It's common for bricks to vary somewhat from speci­
fied dimensions. Different- colored bricks, even from the
same man ufacturer, may differ in size. Keep these varia­
tions in mind if you're planning a complicated pattern
with more than one color. Your Lowe's associate can
help you calculate the quantities of brick you'll need for
your project.
Today, you can find many units larger or smaller
than the standard dimensions that are excellent for
Generous plant pockets teeming with annuals, perennials, and herbs
border the meandering brick-in-sand paths. Container plants and garden
ornaments add a touch of order to the cottage-style setting,
 B R I C K PATT E R N S

JACK-ON-JACK RUNNING BOND BASKET WEAVE

PINWHEEL HALF BASKET HERRINGBONE

A brick path or patio can h a rmonize with al most any

style, thanks i n large part to the range of patterns in
which the bricks c a n be laid. A simple pattern, such a s
r u n n i n g bond, h a s a timeless, understated look. A more
intricate pattern c a n make the surface the focal point.
Intricate patterns can a lso add i nterest to the view of
the project from a bove, such a s from a n upstairs window
or deck.
When choosing a brick pattern, consider the degree
of difficulty i nvolved in laying it. Some req uire greater
accuracy than others, and some more brick cutting.
After they're laid, brick pathways are v i rtua l ly maintenance free. This
decades-old brick path will remain for decades more.

paving. Such pavers are roughJy half as thick as standard
bricks. "True" or "mortarless" pavers are a standard 4 by
8 inches (plus or minus Y8 inch) and are a big help when
you're laying a complex brick pattern with tightly butted
joints.
important, and NX, for interior applications. Bricks are
also classified according to the expected traffic load.
Residential paving applications usually aren't subjected
to heavy traffic, so bricks classified for low t raffic loads
should be fine.

B R I C K G RA D E S
All outdoor bricks are graded b y their ability t o with­
stand weathering. If you live where it freezes and thaws,
buy only those graded SX for use as pavers. Other
grades recognized by the Brick Institute of America are
MX, for applications where resistance to freezing is not
• One hundred square feet of path or patio laid in running bond
requires about 500 bricks.
• Running bond and jack-on-jack are the simplest patterns to lay.
• Experiment with patterns to check their look and installation.

P AT H S LEAO THE WAY 99

Concrete Pavers for Paths
If your idea of a concrete paver is a gray 12 -inch square,
you haven't seen the new generation of these versatile
paving units. Manufacturers have transformed this patio
material from a functional but aestheticaUy limited
option into an elegant choice for outdoor paving. Like
brick, these precast concrete pavers are an ideal do- it­
yourself material. A weekend or two of work can result
in a d ramatic patio or garden walkway.
Pavers are available in two types, regular noninter­
locking, which have smooth edges, and interlocking,
which look somewhat like puzzle pieces and fit together
in almost the same way.
Nonin terlocking pavers are basicalJy like bricks,
although they're usually only 1 Y2 inches thick. They can
be laid in sand, in dry mortar, or in wet morrar. Their
main advantage over bricks is that they come i n a wider
variety of colors, shapes, and sizes.
Aside from the basic rectangular shape, you'U find
circles, squares, triangles, hexagons, and speciaUy shaped
small pavers needed for complicated patterns. SmaU
Shaded by mature trees, this concrete-paver path and patio is an
island of calm-a perfect place to while away the hours o n a weekend
afternoon . Concrete pavers work well i n formal and informal settings.
pavers with interesting shapes can be used in combina­
tion with larger ones. Simple squares can be part of a
grid or even a gentle arc. Pavers can butt together to
create broad, unbroken surfaces, or they can be spaced
apart and surrounded with grass, ground cover, or gravel
for interesting textural effects.
Of course, you can also buy concrete pavers made to
look like bricks, in classic red as well as replica used or
antique finish. I n many areas, they may be sign ificantly
less expensive than the real thing.
Interlocking pavers, made of extremely dense
concrete that is p ressure-formed in machines, have con­
toured edges that fit into each other. When laid in sand
(sand is also used to fill the butted joints), they form a
surface more rigid than bricks. No paver can tip out of
place without taking several of its neighbors with it; thus,
TOP LEFT: Concrete pavers come i n many styles and shapes. This group
includes turf blocks, puzzle-like shapes, and interlocking kinds.
TOP RIGHT: Checkerboard path of square pavers alternating with grassy
turf provides a transition from the cobbled patio to the shady border.
BOTTOM LEFT: Contemporary masonry creates an edging of interlocking
pavers that match the patio floor. A compact pond mirrors the sky.
BOTTOM RIGHT: like brick, concrete pavers can be laid i n sand or
mortar. They're weather resistant and work well i n any region of the
country.
the su rface remains intact even under substantial loads.
Interlocking pavers are available in a number of
colors, including tan, brown, red, and gray. SpeciaUy cut
pieces are usually available to fill in the pattern at edges
and corners. These modern "cobblestone" patterns are
popular for casual gardens.
PATHS lEAO THE WAY 101
Offset concrete steps make a grand entry. The steps were "antiqued"
with a rock salt finish, leaving irregular pits i n the surface.
Cast Concrete and Adobe Paths
Sometimes the simplest paving options are the most
effective. Cast concrete, for example, is inexpensive
and can be customized to a wide variety of garden styles.
Regional materials, such as adobe, which is readily avail­
able in the Southwest, are equalJy versatile and reflect
the style of the landscape.
Cast concrete As a paving material, cast concrete is
very adaptable. This mixture of san d , cement, gravel,
and water is even more variable in appearance than
brick. Cast in forms, it can take on almost any shape.
It can be lightly smoothed or heavily brushed, surfaced
with handsome pebbles, swirled, scored, tinted, painted,
patterned, or cast into molds to resemble other paving
materials. If you get tired of the concrete surface later
on, it provides an excellent foundation for brick, stone,
or tile set in mortar.
Concrete does have some disadvantages. In some
situations, it can be a harsh, hot, and glaring surface.
Smoothly troweled concrete can be slick when wet. If
you're planning to lay concrete yourself, remember that
1 02 PLACES TO S I T. WALK. AND PLAY
Subtle yet substantial, this cast concrete path is tinted to blend with
stucco garden wall and border plants.
creating a top-quality, good-looking cast concrete patio
that will wear well and not crack is more difficult than it
may appear. The concrete must be mixed carefully to
exact specifications; there's little room for error. After the
ingredients are combined and water added, work must
p roceed quickly and accurately; mistakes will require
extensive, and perhaps costly, removal and replacement.
If the concrete isn't cured correctly or if drainage needs
are ignored, the surface may buckle and crack.
Concrete paths are typicalJy given some type of
s urface treatment, both for appearance and for traction.
Washing or sandblasting concrete paving exposes tile
aggregate, or you can em bed colorful pebbles and stones
in it. Other ways to modify tile standard smooth surface
include color-dusting, staining, masking, acid-washing,
and salt-finishing. Concrete can also be stamped and
tinted to resemble stone, tile, or brick.
Adobe The Southwest's version of the mud brick, adobe
is one of the world's oldest building materials. With its
warm, earthy color, adobe creates a friendly, informal
 FANCY F I N I S H ES

Finish the surface of a concrete patio to give it a person­

a lized look that is tailored to its function. Here a re some
options: 1) Semismooth texture is achieved with a
wooden float. 2) Smooth, troweled surface is a ppropriate
for covered areas where it won't get wet and slippery.
3) Broomed surface provides maximum traction. Popular
decorative finishes include: 4) Rock salt. 5) Travertine.
6) Seeded aggregate. Coloring concrete, either a lone or in
combination with other decorative finishes, adds a
distinctive note.

A rustic stepped walkway combines red adobe blocks with railroad ties.
The ties hold the blocks in place; sand fills in the joints.

tone in an outdoor living area the way few other paving

materials can. Because the blocks are large, laying the
paving proceeds quickly, and your efforts yield immedi­
ate results. Adobe looks best when used in generous,
open gardens, where the large size of the bricks will be
in scale.
If set on a sand base and spaced with l -inch-wide
joints packed with sand or earth, adobe makes an excel­
lent outdoor floor. Plant low-growing ground covers and
moss in the joints ro further soften the paving and blend
it with the surrounding garden.
Today's adobe bricks are stabilized with Portland
cement or asphalt emulsion that keeps them from dis­
solving over time. Blocks stabilized with asphalt have a
darker color than traditional adobe blocks; those stabi­
lized with Portland cement are closer in color to the addition, a nonstandard block has been designed specif­
original mud-and-straw bricks. icaUy for paving use. Available in face sizes of 12 by 1 2
Adobe bricks used for building are generally 4 inches o r 6 b y 1 2 inches with a 2 Y,-inch depth, paving
inches thick by 1 6 inches long, with widths varying blocks may contain more stabilizer than is used for
from 3 Y, to 12 inches. The most common block is 4 by blocks in walls.
7 Y, by 1 6 inches. Blocks can weigh 1 2 to 45 pounds. In

PATHS LEAO THE WAY 1 03


Loose Materials
For economy, good drainage, and a more casual look,
pea gravel, bark, or wood chips are good alternatives.
You needn't opt for the large, uninteresting expanses
that can give these materials a bad nanle. Gravel can be
raked into patterns or used as a decorative element with
other paving materials. You can set off different gravel
types with dividers. Or combine gravel or wood chips
with concrete pads, concrete pavers, or other stepping­
stones. Because gravel or other loose material comple­
ments plants, it can also be used effectively i.n transition
zones between patio and garden.
The main problem with loose paving materials is that
1 04 PLACES TO S I T, WALK, ANO P L AY
A circular gravel path, edged in brick, leads strollers to a lattice
summerhouse tucked into a corner of the backyard. The brick edging
keeps the gravel from scattering into the nearby flowerbeds.
they're loose; that is, they move around, into planting
beds and even indoors. Lightweight organic materials
may wash away or relocate during downpours, and any
organic material will need periodic replenishing.
Wood c h i p s a n d bark Wood chips and shredded bark,
byproducts of lumber mills, are springy and soft under­
foot, generally inexpensive, and easy to a pply. They're
ideal for informal paths that get light use, and they can
create an earthy, casual look and feel. These come i n a
wide variety of colors and textures. To work successfuJJy
on a path, wood chips and bark should be confined
inside a grid with headers. Wood chips also make a good
cushion under swings and sEdes in children's plav areas.
Choose a material that fits its environment-a bark­
mulch path i n a woodland landscape o r pine needles
through a planting of evergreens, for example.
Rock Gravel is collected o r mined from natural deposits.
Crushed rock is mechanically fract u red and then graded
to uniform sizes. If the rock su rface has been naturally
worn smooth by water, it's called river rock. Frequently,
gravels are named after the regions where they were
quarried.
The irregular sh apes of crushed rock allow it to pack
well and make a firm su rface that can easily support a
wheelbarrow. G ravel with rounded edges resists packing,
1l1 aking wheelbarrow navigation-cllld even \vi:d kil� g­
more awkward.
When making a choice, consider color, sheen, tex­
ture, and size. Take home samples, as you would paint
chips. Keep in mind that gravel color, like paint color.
looks more intense when spread over a large area.
LEFT: Resembling a dry streambed, this wal kway is a winning mix of
coarse gravel , river rocks, and drought-tolerant native plants.
TOP RIGHT: In a woodland garden, :;hredded bark makes a natural paving
material that blends perfectly with the shady surroundings.
BOTTOM RIGHT: A river of adobe-colored gravel flows through curving
flowerbeds overflowing with ornamental grasses, perennials, and shrubs.
P A T H S LE A O T H E WAY 1 05
Stone Paths
This durable, natural material, which comes in many
forms, blends well with almost any paving project. Flat
flagstones and cut stone tiles are ideal for formal paving,
while i rregularly shaped rocks or cobblestones create a
more informal, relaxed setting.
G ranite is an example of volcano-formed rock;
these are usually the toughest, longest-wearing options.
Limestone, sandstone, and other sedimentary stones are
more porous and usually have a chalky or gritty texture.
Dense, smooth slate, on the other hand, is a fine-grained
metamorphic rock. Im itation stones come in many types
1 06 PLACES TO S IT, WALK, ANO PLAY
and offer a n inexpensive but attractive option where
stone is hard to come by. The selection of rock available
depends on your area.
General ly, preparing stone for use as paving is a
labor-intensive process-it takes a lot of time and effort
to quarry, trim, haul, and store it, so the price to cover
a given area may be higher for stone than for other
Mortared flagstone path bordered by easy-care purple-flowering
catmint, mounding lavender cotton, and pink- and white-flowering
Santa Barbara daisies result i n colorful and low-maintenance garden.
LEFT: Rules don't exist when designing a stone path. This one includes
flagstone, two colors of old brick, and blue tiles.
CENTER: A smooth cobblestone path resembles a bubbl ing stream. The
slightly raised planting beds add to the i l l usion.
RIGHT: Flat stones form landings surrounded by low-growing burgundy
alyssum and herbs. Pink petunias and geraniums echo stones' col or.
materials. However, stone's beauty, elegance, and per­
manence make it well worth the extra expense.
Flagstone Technically, flagstone is any flat stone that's
either naturally thin or cut from a rock that splits easily.
Flagstone work in almost any setting. Its natural, unfin­
ished look blends well with plants, and it's one of the
few paving materials that can, if thick enough, be placed
directly on stable soil. Its subdued colors-buff, yellow,
brownish-red, and gray-add warmth to a patio, and its
irregularly shaped slabs contribute pleasing texture.
Flagstone does have some less-favorable attributes. It
is much more expensive than brick or concrete, and
because of its irregularity, it's not a good surface for out­
door furniture, games, or wheeled toys. Snow removal
can also be challenging. Also, some types of stone are
easily soiled and are difficult to clean. Ask your Lowe's
associate about the characteristics of the flagstone you're
considering.
Flagstones generally range in thickness from 1 Y, to
2 inche . They must be laid out so there are no uneven
SpOts and the final pattern is pleasing. Withom proper
planning_ including dry-laying the stones, the finished
look may be an unattractive patchwork.
Stone t i l e s Many types are available, from precut to
rectangular shapes. You can also find hand-cut squares
and rectangles in random sizes. Slate, which is available
in many colors, and granite are both popular, though
expensive, choices.
Other stones Fieldstone and river rock offer alternatives
to the high cost of flagstone. These waterworn or glacier­
ground stones produce rustic, uneven paving that makes
up in charm what it may lack in smoothness underfoot.
River rocks are available in a wide range of shapes
and sizes. They are impervious to weather, and are virtu­
ally maintenance-free. Smaller stones can be set or
seeded in concrete; large stones can be laid directly on
the soil as raised stepping-stones. An entire surface can
be paved solid with cobblestones set in concrete or
tamped soil.
Keep in mind, however, that natural stones, like river
rock and smaller kinds, are smooth and can be slippery,
especially in wet weather. Because their shapes are irreg­
ular, they may be uncomfortable to walk on-this is
especially true of rounded cobblestones.
Laying the surface, particularly when you're working
with small pebbles and stones in mortar or concrete, is a
slow process. Confine this surfacing to a limited area.
PATHS lEAO T H E WAY 1 07
 Wooden paths can't be beat for uneven terrain or special situations,
such as spanning this man-made waterfa l l and stream. Here, the
walkway also blends well with the traditional gazebo.

Making Paths of Wood

Few materials can match the natural, informal quality of
wood. Its warm color and soft texture bring something
of the forest into your landscape, and if stained or
painted, wood can hold its own in even the most formal
company.
A wooden pathway provides a solid, relatively
durable surface requiring little or no grading and a
minimum of maintenance. Because wood decking is
raised above the ground and can dry quickly, it's a
natural choice wherever drainage i s a problem. For
even less maintenance and a lower environmental
impact, consider decking that's made from recycled
materials (see page 7 7 ) . You ' ll still need wood or
another material for structural members, but such
decking is an option for pathways that won't be subject
to heavy traffic.
\'V'hether new or old, natural or man-made, a
wooden path feels right at home in aLllost any setting.

1 08 PLACES TO SIT, WAlK, ANO PLAY

Wood can link a house and garden ar flower-head heighr,
smoothing our bumps and ridLng over dramage p roblems
that may preclude masonrv paving.
Keep m m in d rhar codes require any walkwav more
than 30 inches above rhe ground ro have a railing or
similar barrier. Beyond safety, railings conrribure an
important design elemenr, roo. Use rhem ro frame or
block a beautiful view. Fill gap s wirh vertical slats, safety
glass, or screening.
TOP LEFT: A boardwalk built over marshy ground provides access to a
larger part 01 the garden. Flowers are a l lowed to spill over the phnks.
TOP RI GHT: Wooden boardwalk offers clean, secure footing even in wet
weather. Varying the d i rection of the boards on the meandering path
adds to the dramatic design.
BOTTOM LEFT: In this small, narrow garden, a diagonal walkway divides
the garden in half, making the space seem larger than it really is.
BOTTOM RIGHT: Mixing paving materials, as in this winning mix of
wooden decking and tile steps, makes this path more interesting.

Landscape Steps
ON A PATIO O R D E C K , Y O U ' L L L I K E LY N EE D T H E M
I n addition t o their obvious practical function a s a
transition between different levels or from one garden
feature to another, steps set the mood for an entire
landscaping scheme. Most dramatic are wide, deep
steps that lead the eye to a garden focal point. A set of
stairs can also double as a retaining wall, a base for
planters, or additional garden seating space.
Materials influence step styles. Poured concrete and
masonry block usually present a formal, substantial
look. Unglazed tiles and concrete pavers have a similar
effect . Natural materials, such as stone and wood, add
1 10 PLACES TO SIT, WALK, AND PLAY
Massive stone slabs match the natural materials and follow the curve of
the adjacent boulder-strewn watercourse. Planting pockets give plants a
place to sprawl and blend into the landscape.
informality and fit into a less-structured garden.
Matching steps to the material used for a patio or
garden wall helps unite a garden's overall landscaping.
On the other hand, contrasting materials draw attention
to the steps and the areas of the garden they serve.
Combining materials can create a transition bet\veen
unlike surfaces; for example, steps of concrete treads
(horizontals) and brick risers (verticals) can link a brick
patio to a concrete walk.
To soften the edges of a series of steps and help
walkers find them without difficulty, place containers or
flower beds along their borders. You can even add plant­
ing pockets within a wide series of tiers, as long as the
greenery won't impede smooth travel.
Regardless of the material you use, put safety first.
Treads should give safe footing in wet weather, and steps
should be adequately lit at night with unobtrusive non­
glare path lights or fixtures built into risers or adjacent
step waUs.
Scale is another important consideration. Your
home's entry requires steps that are inviting and thar
allow several people to climb them at one time. Service­
yard steps (ones not used by visitors ) , on the other hand,
can be scaled down to fit a more limited space.
You r landscape layout and the steps' function will
influence decisions about width. Simple utility steps can
be as narrow as 2 feet, but 4 feet is usually recom­
mended for outdoor steps. To allow two people to walk
side by side, steps should be at least 5 feet wide.
When designing steps, make the sum of the tread
depth plus twice the riser height equal 2 5 to 27 inches.
The standard dimensions are a 6-inch riser and a I 5 - inch
LEFT: Mortared brick steps have a formal look, but these are softened by
a curved layout and flat adobe edgings that support potted plants.
TOP RIGHT: Wide wooden steps, flanked by exuberant and colorful
annuals, easily accommodate two walkers side by side.
tread. These dimensions can vary somewhat, but don't
make risers lower than 5 inches or higher than 8 il;ches
and don't make treads narrower than 1 1 inches. Besides
getting the tread-riser relationship right, it's important to
make all the risers and treads in any one flight of steps
the same. To design your steps, work out a detailed plan
on graph paper. Try different combinations of risers and
treads, widths, ,md configurations to achieve the neces­
sary change of level. You'll find more det,rils about
building steps on page 2 3 8 .
If your slope is t o o steep even for 8-inch risers,
remember that steps needn't attack a slope head-on:
Sometimes the most appealing solution is an L - or u­
sh aped series of multiple flights of steps. Consider plac­
ing a wide landing between nights. using the transition
for a l'eading nook, a rose bed, or a wall fountain.
Rarely will the steps fit exactly into an existing slope.
You may need to cut and fill to accommodate them . If
you have questions about your site or if your steps will be
connected to a building or touch a public access area,
such as a sidewalk, check with your building department.
BOTTOM RIGHT: The beautiful grain and warm color of plantation-grown
teakwood enhances this simple yet elegant walkway and steps.
LANOSCAPE STEPS 1 1 1
Play Areas
S Xn � r Y I N G KI D S ' N E E D FOR F U N
Kids love the outdoors and need a place [ 0 expend
their energy. Yet young children ( and somewh at older
ones) have litrie sense of danger, so play areas must be
as safe as they are fu n. The first decision [0 make when
planning a play yard is where [0 place ir. Preschoolers
feel safer-and can be more easily watched-if the
play area is close [0 the house. You may prefer [0
corral older, noisier children father away, although
still within view.
Take inro account sun, wind, and shade. Hot sun
increases tbe risk of sunburn and can make metal slides,
monkey bars, and concrete walks b u rning hor. Instead,
install slide surfaces facing north . I f your property is in
the path of strong winds, locate the play yard inside a
win dbreak of fencing or dense trees. Dappled shade is
ideal. If you have no spreading foliage, position the play
yard on the north side of your bouse, construct a simple
canopy of lath or canvas, or somehow plan to shade a
portion of the structure.
Many public playgrounds feature metal or plastic
play structures rather than timber, because wood rots
and breaks. Still, wood is a warmer and friendlier
material-and a good-quality wooden structure will last
as long as your children will be using ir.
Gangplanks, turrets, and ramparts, all coated in electric colors, ensure
plenty of fun. Forgiving wood chips and ground cover link this structure
with the garden. A see-through fence contains the activity.
 Perhaps you'll want a play structure scaled beyond
your youngster's present abilities. Some structures allow
you to add or change components as your child grows.
Before you buy, view an assembled srructure to evaluate
its safety and design. Look through the instructions to be
sure you can carry out the assembly.
Allow at least 6 feet of space for a fall zone around
all sides of swings, slides, and climbing structures, and
then cushion it well. A 3 -inch layer of wood chips is one
choice; increase the depth to 6 inches under a swing.
Shredded bark (1<- to I -inch particles of Douglas or
white fir bark) holds up well, even in windy areas or on
slopes. Sand p rovides another safe landing for falls. For
children, the more sand the better-a depth of 12 inches
is not too much. Building a low wall around a play yard
helps contain loose materials, keeping the cushion thick
and reducing the cost of replenishing.
Turf grass also makes a functional play surface (but
avoid mixtures that contain clover, because its flowers
LEFT: Protected from the elements by a fence, trees, and an umbrella,
this handsome play space includes a sandbox at patio level.
TOP RIGHT: Play structures don't have to be elaborate. This playhouse is
made from cut tree branches lashed together with rope.
BOTTOM RIGHT: Climbing ropes and a wooden pirate ship inspire the
imaginations of these sailors. A soft surface underfoot prevents mishaps.
attract bees). For maximum cushioning, keep grass
about 2 inches high.
If your child will be pedaling a riding toy or tricycle,
plan a smooth concrete path at least 24 inches wide.
Gravel paths are frustrating for kids on wheels and for
very young walkers.
The need for property-line fencing is probably obvi­
ous. Securely fence the play area from the driveway, as
well as from the pool, spa, or other body of water (such
as a water garden) . YOLI may need to fence off sharp or
heavy tools, garden supplies, and garbage cans, too.
PLAY AREAS 1 1 3
I N THIS C HAPTER
Planning for Privacy
BASIC L A N D S C A P I N G T E C H N I Q U E S A RE Y O U R B E S T TOOL S
Privacy can be hard to come by, especially in neighbor­
hoods devoid of natural separations, such as hills and
woods, and in housing developments where one yard
blends into the next without any interruption. B u t
wherever y o u live, y o u can create private spaces with
a little careful planning.
Rather than planting dense hedges or erecting tall
fences around the entire perimeter of your garden
(which will shrink the size of a garden and cover it with
deep shade) , study where you need privacy the most.
Consider the seasonal use of each area: Perhaps a patio
needs screening only in summer because it's not usable
in the cooler seasons, or maybe a vegetable garden needs
no screening at all i n summer i f you've created a private
seating area behind rows of corn or sunflowers.
For each part of the garden, think about what you're
seeking privacy from. Are you trying to carve out a place
away from the sights and sounds o f traffic, your neigh­
bors' backyard, or an uninspiring (or unpleasant) view
farther away)
Solutions can be both natural and purchased: tree
canopies, awnings, umbrellas, potted plants, walls,
fences, hedges, gates, pergolas, trellises, and vines.
Deciduous plants become light screens i n winter, fences
can let the light through, hedges have openings cut into
them, or low walJs can alJow views over them when
you're standing but allow you to eat i n privacy when
you're seated.
A single row of bright pink crape myrtles creates a colorful partition
between two driveways. Even in winter when their branches are bare,
trees and shrubs can provide privacy.
LEFT: Wisteria-covered arbor transforms a simple wooden deck into a
private retreat that's hidden from view and the hot summer sun.
TOP RIGHT: Stucco wal l with a wooden gate screens the house front
from street traffic. Plantings help blend wall into the landscape. �""'""--===�_ Soften the appearance of a
BOTTOM RIGHT: Tall flowering perennials against the white picket solid (but plain) barrier
fence separate this secluded yard from neighboring houses. with plantings.

.-it'/-
Create a screen of cl ipped hedge to block wind and ----;7" .
views of neighbors. Prune trunks to add height
?Jir.
and still allow room for beds below. Conceal bare trunks of mature
trees with low-level shrubs.
�, ) �
Use a vine-covered arbor for overhead Prune shrubs and hedges to
protection and enclosure. waist or chest height to form
a partial screen for a pool.

Cover a berm in front of your

house with low-growing shrubs,
trees, and ground cover.
Use a fence with a
gate for security.

Place a single tree at the front

corner of your driveway to block
a view of the entrance.

PLAN N I N G FOR PRIVACY 1 17


Fence Basics
THEY COME IN M A N Y STYLES A N D S I Z E S
When well designed, fences filter the sun's glare, turn a
raging wind into a pleasant breeze, and help muffle the
cacophony of street traffic, noisy neighbors, and barking
dogs. As partitions, they divide the yard into separate
areas for recreation, relaxation, gardening, and storage.
Although fences serve many of the same p urposes as
walls, they are generally less formal in appearance, easier
to construct, and-when you calculate labor costs-less
expensive to build.
Most communities have regulations restricting fence
height. In many places, the maximum allowable height is
42 inches for front-yard fences and 6 f�et for backyard
ones. Tall fences are also more difficult to build . An
alternative way to gain more height is to clothe the top of
the fence with a vine o r to grow narrow shrubs adjacent
to it and then allow them to grow beyond the height of
1 18 C R E AT I N G PRIVACY
This fence encloses a vegetable garden and provides a backdrop for a
flower-filled perennial garden bursting with yellow l i l ies. An adjoining
birdhouse invites birds to take up residence in the garden.
the fence. Before you begin construction, check the
building code of your community. Some locales have
height and design covenants that may affect your project.
Normally a boundary fence is owned and maintained
by both neighbors. Make every effort to come to a
friendly agreement with your neighbor on the location,
design, and construction of the fence. (One option is a
"good neighbor" fence with crosspieces mounted in alter­
nating directions.) If you can't come to an agreement, you
can circumvent the problem by building the fence entirely
on your p roperty, just a few inches inside your boundary.
Before installing your fence, check the terrain. Few
lots are perfectly smooth, flat, and free of obstructions.
If your fence line runs up a hill, build the fence so that
it follows the contours of the land o r construct stepped
panels that will maintain horizontal lines.
 Most fences are built enrireiy of wood. Wood's
versatility as a fencing material is reflected in its wide
variety of forms-split rails, grape stakes, dimension
lumber, poles, and manufactured wood products sLlch as
plywood and tempered hardboard.
Wooden fences have th ree parts: vertical posts,
horizonral rails (or stringers ) , and siding. Posts are
usually 4 -by-4s and should be made of pressure-treated
TOP LEFT: Low picket fence improves the view by acting as a visual
barrier between the flower-fi lled front yard and the drab driveway.
TOP RIGHT: Rounded plaster pilasters match the house wall and provide
solid support to fence of lashed, un peeled logs.
BOTTOM: Built with natural materials, this split-rail fence with a
herringbone design blends well with its surroundings.
fENCE BASICS 1 19
 or d ec n y-resi s ta nr redwood or cedar heartwood.
Redwood can be left [0 weather naturally, but fir o r pine
should be painted or stained. R'lils are usually 2 -by-4s.
Fence siding can vary from preassembled picket sections
to plywood panels.
Alternative materials beyond boards, slats, and
timbers include vinyl, galvanized wire, plastic mesh, and
ornamental i ron . I f wire fen cing is the right choice but
you don 't like the look of it, plant annual vines, such as
morning glories or climbing nasturtiums, for quick
cover o r add plantings for permanent cover.
Although the d esign p os s i b iliti es are endless,
wooden fences fall into one of three basic types: post­
,md-rail, p ick e t , and solid board. Your choice depends
on the fen ce's intended function; a board fence may be
the best choice for a full privacy screen, for example.
To in crease seclusion and wind protection, look to a
closed design, such as solid board, face panel, or grape
stake fen cing. \Vhen you want to break up a l arge
expanse, in a solid panel fence, for example, a simple
oval oI' square window or cutout, especially when fram­
ing a view, lends a sense of mystery and discovery.
1 20 C R E AT I N G PRIVACY
Shrubs planted along a fence also soften the look of
solid fencing.
For some degree of privacy without compromising
ventilation, vertical lath ( narrow strips of wood) or
lattice is a good choice, as long as the space doesn't
require complete protection. Vines trained on[O lattice
trellises or wire frames can block wind and sun without
destroying the ai ry, open feeling of your patio. Fences
can also be designed to edit views; louvers, slats, lattice,
or see-through trellises provide a glim pse of what lies
beyond.
• Fences that a llow some wind to pass through provide more
protection than solid fences that create a solid barrier
Alternating boards of this fence screen a patio from view but
allow light and air to pass through. Narrow, h i gh-branched trees
extend the height of the fence to b l o c k intruding v iews from the
ne ighboring home.
Fe n c e Sty l e s
Whatever your choice of fencing, coordinate the fence glass house wOLJd look wonderful with a colonial brick
with the style and materials of your house. A picket fence or clapboard structure. Louvered or board fences,
that may be too dainty for a contemporary stone-and- however, complement a variety of house styles.

SOLID BOARO fence offers maximum privacy but requires more lumber POST-AND-BOARD fence encloses space with less wood and less privacy.
and can create a boxed-in feeling. The diagonal pattern adds visual interest.

III

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PICKET FENCE is used with any style of house architecture, though tradi- ALTERNATING-BOARD FENCE provides privacy without compromising ven-
tionally associated with colonial. tilation, and shows the same pattern on both sides

. . t ;. ,. ' ." .

.f "

POST·AND·RAIL fence encloses space with little wood. This one features GRAPESTAKE fence is made of the rough·split redwood stakes tradition­
mortised posts with overlapping rails (inset). ally used in vinyards. It's suitable for hillside and curved fencing.

FENCE BASICS 121

Bamboo poles affixed to sturdy wood frames suggest solidity and suit the
garden's Asian style, matching the fencing on either side.
Gate Basics
CREATING A N E NTRAN C[' TO Y O U R PRIVATE YARD
Place a gate for access, to frame a view, or to make a
design statement in tandem with the fence. You may
want to build the gate in a style and material that match
the fence, but you can also choose a contrasting material
or design, such as a wooden or wrought-iron gate within
flanking brick columns or pilasters. A low picket gate or
one made of airy lath invites people in with its open,
friendly appearance. A high, solid gate guards the
privacy and safety of those within.
The minimum width for a gate is usually 3 feet, but
an extra foot creates a more gracious feeling. If you
anticipate moving gardening equipment (such as garden
carts or wheelbarrows) or other equipment (such as
tillers or riding lawn mowers) through the gate, make
the opening wider. For an extra-wide space, consider a
1 22 C R E AT I N G PRIVACY
This moon gate serves as an attractive focal point from both inside
and outside the garden. It beckons visitors from both directions.
two-part gate o r even a gate o n rollers th at's designed to
span a driveway.
The components of a gate are shown on the opposite
page: a rectangular frame of 2-by-4s and a brace running
from the bottom corner of the hinge side to the top cor­
ner of the latch side. Complete it with the sieling.
Choose strong hinges and latches (see page 246).
It's better to select hardware that's too hefty than too
flimsy. Plan to attach both hinges and latches with long
galvanized screws that won't pull out and be sure to use
galvanized hardware, which resists rust.
• For maximum impact, focus on design details or finishing
touches for your gate, whicil is the entrance to your landscape.
A B a s i c G a te A diagonal brace prevents
the gate from sagging

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���=--
Pickets may have
decorative tops, and Hinges musl he
posts may be capped strong enough to
with decorative finials. support the gate.

Rails are 2-by-4 lu m ber.

A gate's frame is
generally built from
Swing clearance 2-by-4s
between a gate and
fence posts is usually
Y2 inch.

The footing (which the A gravel base aids

post sits in) is poured drainage; rock helps keep
concrete, typically one-third the posts from rotting
the post depth.

TOP LEFT: Traditional pic ket gate creates a pleasing contrast

with dense, gray stone wall around this informal seaside garden.
TOP RIGHT: Mixed materials, such as this rusted iron gate framed with
wooden posts, make a memorable garden gateway.
BOTTOM LEFT: Massive stucco pil lars frame this high wooden gate and
clearly signal the entrance to the enclosed space within.
BOTTOM CENTER: Informal wooden gate welcomes family and friends
with its low, widely spaced, spindles and cheerful yellow pai nt.
BOTTOM RIGHT: Crisp white stacked panels give a contemporary look to
a traditional picket fence and are an ideal foil for the blue door beyond.

GATE BASICS 1 23
Wall Basics
f'H[Y FOHM A PERMANENT STRU CTURE
Walls bring ,111 unmatched sense of permanence to a
g,u-den. In fact, some of the world's oldest structu res
are walls. After you've determined a wall's function and
location, you C,1I1 choose its height, width, and degree of
openess. You'll also need to select materials that coordi­
nate with the style and design of your house and existing
garden structures.
Among the typical materials for garden walls are
masonry units or blocks, uncut stone, and poured con­
crete. The easiest materials to use yourself are brick or
concrete block, which are uniform Ll11i ts with modular
proportions that you assemble piece by piece. You can
choose a decorative pattern for laying the courses, incor­
porate a solid or openwork face, vary the thickness, and
employ combinations of Illaterials. Glass block sections
let light pass through, as do upper edgings of lath,
lattice, and trellises.
In the hands of an experienced mason, stone creates
walls that integrate with many landscapes. Stone that's
prominent in your region will look the most natural in
your garden, but poured concrete offers more design
possibilities because surface texture and shape are
established by wooden forms. Most of the work goes
into constructing and stabilizing these forms. The actual
"pour, " for better or worse, is accomplished quickly.
Consult a contractor for any poured concrete wall more
than a few feet high.
Before beginning any wall, ask your building depart­
ment about regulations that specify how high and how
close to your property line you can build, what kind of
foundation you'll need, and whether the wall requires steel
reinforcement. Many municipalities require a building per­
mit for any masonry wall more than 3 feet high. Some may
also require that the wall be approved by an engineer.
This low, lattice-style brick wall encloses a perennial garden, yet the
spaces between the bricks allow air and light to pass through-and give
passersby a sneak preview of the spectacular plantings beyond.
R ETAI N I N G WA L L S
You can tame a gentle slope with a low retaining waU or
a series of garden steps tllat hold the surface soil in place.
Bur if your slope is long and steep, consider building [wo
or three substantial walls to divide it into terraces, which
you can men enhance with ornamental plants.
Engineering aside, you can budd a retaining wall
from any of the materials discussed in the preceding
section. \'(Iood is another easy option, whether you use
various-sized boards, railroad ties, or wood timbers set
vertically or horizontally.
On a low slope, uncut stones or chunks of broken
TOP LEFT: A low concrete retaining wall set against a bank of fragrant
flowers doubles as a space-saving seat in this tiny backyard retreat.
TOP CENTER: The pleasing texture of this mortared stone wall, set into
a gentle slope, blends well with the creeping flowers growing above it.
TOP RIGHT: Plain walls, if occasionally interrupted by openi ngs, can
provide a welcome sense of shelter without being overwhelming.
concrete can be laid without mortar or footings. Fill the
soil-lined crevices with colorful plantings.
New systems for building concrete retaining walls
don't require that you to mix a single bag of concrete.
These walls are built with p recast modules that stack or
lock together with lips, pins, or friction. They are icleal
for 3 - to -f-foot-high walls.
Where engineering is critical. poured concrete may
be your only solution, but the labor required can make
a concrete wall a costly project. To make concrete more
interesting, use rough form boards to texture the finish
or apply a su rface veneer.
BOTTOM LEFT: Stone retaining wall built into a slope is as beautiful as
it is functional, appearing to meld with both earth and plantings.
BOTTOM RIG HT: To save time and money, build a low wall, and then let
trees and shrubs add height for privacy.
WAll BASICS 1 25

WA L L FO U N DAT I O N S
Regardless o f the type o f wall you plan t o raise, it
requires the support of a solid foundation. Poured con­
crete is about the best because it can be smoothed and
leveled better than other materials can. Usually, wall
foudations, also called footmgs, are twice the width of the
wall and 1 2 inches deep or as deep as the frost line. But, as
always, consult local codes for exceptions before building.
For walls no more than 1 2 inches high or for low
raised beds, the base of the wall can rest directly on
tamped soil or in a leveled trench.
In most cases, a freestanding wall more than 2 to 3
feet high should have some kind of reinforcement to tie
portions of the wall together and to prevent it from col­
lapsing. Steel reinforcmg bars, laid with the mortar along
1 26 C R E AT I N G PRIVACY
Plastering stucco creates a clean, contemporary veneer atop a concrete
block wall. Apply two coats of plaster; the final coat may be precolored
or painted when dry. Decorate the wall with plates and pots.
the length of a wall, provide horizontal stiffening. Placed
upright (for example, between double rows of brick or
within the hollow cores of concrete blocks), remforcmg
adds vertical strength that can keep a wall from topplmg
under its own weight.
Special steel ties of various patterns are made for
remforcing unit masonry and attaching veneers to sub­
structures. See the illustration at the far right.
Vertical masonry columns, called pilasters, can be
tied into a wall to provide additional vertical support.
Many building departments require that they be used at
least every 1 2 feet. Also consider placing pilasters on
each side of an entrance gate and at the ends of free­
standing walls. When you're building the foundation,
make the pilaster footing twice the width of the pilasters.
LEFT: A winding fieldstone wall encloses a broad patio. The wall's stones BOTTOM RIGHT: Herringbone-patterned brick paving meshes easily with
were applied with mortar over a base of concrete blocks. steps and low retaining walls that are also made of brick.
TOP RIGHT: Exterior plaster veneer softens the plain, strict look of a
concrete block core. This curved wall steps up to a bold entry gate.

A B r i c k Wa l l A C o n c rete B l oc k Wa l l
Header course (every
fifth, sixth, or seventh Bond-beam block adds strength
course) spans front to back; at the top of the wall.
helps lock the wall together.
Concrete block core i s set
with % -inch mortar joints
Reinforcing bars
strengthen structure
A1-_---- Grout fills
(check local codes) .
the gaps

Poured footing i s
typically twice the wall's
width and 12 inches deep
(or as deep as frost line).
Gravel base ensures
good drainage.
Common-bond wal l has
staggered joints from
course to course. Double
thickness is much stronger
than a single row of bricks.
Wall ties help
connect veneer to
Stone veneer the block core.
set in mortar covers
the block core.
Corners overlap
with Yo- a n d Yo -inch
"closure" bricks. Poured footing i s typically
twice the wall's width and 12 inches
Reinforcing bars strengthen
deep (or as deep as frost line).
structure (check local codes).

WALL BASICS 1 27
Arbors and Gazebos
P[lZM A N E N T O V EEHEADS S U PP L E M E N T L EAFY S H E LTER
There's nothing quite like an arbor or gazebo [0 enhance
your enjoyment of the garden. Both structures furnish
sh<lde during the day and shelter during cool evenings,
yet are always open [0 breezes and the emicing scent of
flowers. Both give you a pl<lce [0 sit and relax, host a
party, or simply mingle with family and friends. And
these garden structures play other, more practical roles,
as well. They link your house to tbe garden, define dif­
ferent areas of your landscape, direct foot traffic through
the garden, mask an unattractive feature, or frame a
spectacular view.
Gazebos come in a variety of styles, from old­
fashioned Victorian designs [0 comemporary or rustic
motifs. Altbough typically built with open, airy framing,
a gazebo lends a feeling of enclosure to those sitting
inside because of the solid roof overhead. By comrast,
arbors frame the walls and ceiling of an outdoor room
and can be embellished witb fragrant or colorful vines.
You can build a n arbor in almost any style, from simple
archways ro elaborate neoclassical pavllions.
As you tbink about wbere [0 put a new gazebo or
arbor, take a walk around your property under different
weather conditions. Glance back at the house often.
Look for a vantage poim that marries a good view of the
house with a view over tbe entire property. Unless the
structure will conceal any unsightly areas, avoid such
spaces. Also consider exposu re-if your main deck or
patio is in full sun, you may p refer to locate an arbor or
gazebo in a shady corner. Finally, don't give u p on a
garden structure j ust because your yard is small. Tiny
spaces often profit from the focus created by a small
arbor or gazebo.
Late-afternoon sun warms this traditional gazebo, which was assembled
from a kit. Nestled i nto a garden corner, the gazebo rema i ns a private
retreat, accessible only by the meandering fieldstone path.
TOP: Matching the adjacent roof, weathered split ra ils perch atop solid BOTTOM RIGHT: To maintain privacy, locate a gazebo where at least tlVO
pillars, defining and enclosing a private outdoor space. sides of the structure will be hidden from view by shrubs or trees.
BOTTOM LEFT: Arbors can be more than supporting characters in a
garden. Here, a golden hop vine climbs the fire-engine-red arbor.

ARBORS ANO GAZEBOS 1 29

Arbor Basics
The first step in design ing '1Il arbor is taking a good,
long look >1t your house . Repe>1t
. ing interesting a rchitec­
tural detaiJs you find there-a rail ing pattern, the pitch
01' a g>1ble. or even a paint color-visually ties the house
and arbor together and u n i fies the garden .
Arbors vary in height, but 8 to 1 0 feet is about rig h t
for most. This provides p lenty of headroom b u t also
makes i t easv to prune any vines growing on the arbor.
When deciding upon you r arbor's length and width ,
remember th,l[ a roof overhead always makes the floor
space below seem smaller t h >1n it is.
TOP LEFT: Framing a pathway, cedar arbor un ites the house with a n
adjacent shade house. Widely spaced rafters l e t t h e s u n s h i n e through.
TOP RIGHT: Brick-and-concrete terrace sheltered by a lath arbor and
cedar breezeway creates a transition between house and garden.
BOTTOM LEFT: Simple arches give height to a colorful planting bed and
frame a view of the pool beyond. For quick color, rely on annual vines.
BOTTOM RIG HT: When possible, use an arbor to frame a view. This
dramatic structure frames the distant garden and seating area.
A C l assic Arbor Rafters sit atop beams and are spaced
for plant support or shade. Orientation
determines the extent of shade cast below.

Beams bridge posts;

and spans. --_ "",-.J

Posts are 4-by-4 lumber or larger; the posts, arbor, and

post-to-beam connections may need plants. In colder areas,
lattice screen adds
bracing. Metal anchors secure posts to they should extend
privacy and shade; it
piers or to a concrete slab. below the frost line.
doubles as a trellis.

Piers of cast concrete

are embedded in poured
concrete footings.

The key to arbor construction is to think of a criss­
cross of materials, with each new layer placed perpendi­
cular to the one below it. Whether freestanding or
attached to a building, the structure is supported by
posts or colunms, which in turn support horizontal
beams and rafters. (With an arbor attached to a house,
a ledger takes the place of an end beam, and the rafters
are laid directly on the ledger.l Although building an
arbor starts from the bottom up, design it from the top
down. Decide first on the spacing and size of rafters,
because this will dictate that of the support members.
Wooden rafters can be as plain or fancy as you like,
ending in curves, notches, or elaborate scrollwork. You
can leave them uncovered or cover them with shade­
cloth, plants, lath, or lattice.
Arbors are typically built from standard dimension
lumber; use only pressure-treated pine or naturally
decay-resistant cedar. Make sure the arbor can support
the weight of any vining plants. For added strength, add
crossbraces where the posts meet the beams.

ARBORS AND GAZEBOS 131


Gazebo Basics
Although gazebos (also called belvederes or summer­
houses) can have many forms, most adhere to the same
basic design. All require a fou ndation, posts, beams,
rafters, and some type of roofing. Cramped quarters are
no fun, so make your gazebo at least 8 feet tall with
enough floor space to accommodate several pieces of
furniture-at least 8 feet wide and deep.
1 32 CREATING P R I VACY
This formal six-sided gazebo looks at home i n its lush, green setting.
Open framing forms a seating area beneath a random ly patterned
shingled roof. Brick paving forms the floor of the structure.
With few exceptions, support for a gazebo comes
from a simple post-and-beam frame built of sturdy
pressure-treated lumber. The roof may take a variety of
forms. By far tbe trickiest shape to lay out is the most
traditional one-a six- or eight-hub style. A roof with
four sides is mucb simpler. Remember also that if the
roof is made of solid materials ( an d most are ) , it must be
 A n E l e g a n t G a zebo

Roofing may b e siding,

shakes, or shingles.

Rafters run from posts

to hub, supporting the
roofing members.

Posts are 4-by-4

or larger lumber.

Knee walls are formed

from prefabricated panels.
supports ground-level gazebo. Other
foundation options include wooden
framing, piers, and concrete footings.

pitched to allow water to run off. If the structure is far
from the house, it's good idea to run electrical lines for
lighting. Framing connections are most easily made by
means of readily available p refabricated metal fasteners.
I f building a gazebo from scratch seems overwhelm­
ing, consider ordering a set of plans with complete
instructions or building one from a kit. The kit usually
contains everything but the foundation: The gazebo
must sit on a concrete slab, deck, concrete piers, or bed
of crushed stone. For most gazebos, assembly will take a
weekend or two and require only basic tools and
skills-but it's a job for at least two people.

ARBORS ANO GAZEBOS 1 33

Trellis Know-How
U S I N G n�A M ES TO S UPPORT PLANTS
A trellis i s essen tially a two-dimensional frame for
plants, made with verticals and horizontals fastened
together. The traditional model is a rectangular wooden
grid that gives plants a good foothold, allows air circula­
tion , and holds itself together. But just about anything
flat or round that stands up to the elements, supports
the weight of mature plants, and can be nailed, screwed,
or wired together can serve as a lightweight trellis, espe­
cially if it will be supported by a wall or fence.
Whether it flanks a patio door, props up a riot
of roses, cages tomatoes or pole beans, or livens u p a
large, boring lawn, a trellis can add a sense of drama to
any garden. Walls, fences, and arbors perform this func­
tion, too, but trellises do it with a superbly open feel­
and the resulting dappled sunlight, breezes, and patches
of blue sky counter any potential "prison-wall" effect.
1 34 C R E AT I N G P R I VA C Y
Trellises range from h umble t o grand , utilitarian to
sculptural. You can opt for a gridlike, symmetrical style
or a more whimsical, gnarled look. What's important is
that the trellis suits the rest o f the garden and easily
shoulders the weight o f the plants you choose for it. A
lightweight trellis may back a modest container plant,
while a large, sturdy frame can dress u p a garage wall or
form a backdrop for an entire garden.
LEFT: One way to dress up a garden shed is to add a trellis over the roof.
Here, roses are the crowning glory of this quaint cottage.
TOP RIGHT: Made from twisted concrete reinforcing rods, this trellis
doubles as garden art. It also provides a vertical accent in the garden.
BOTTOM RIGHT: Rough and rustic fan trellis looks right at home i n an
informal garden. It's an ideal support for annual vines.
 The trellis's scale should suit its setting. A 2 Y ,.[00t­
high grid may overpower a small patio container, while
even a 7 -foot-tall rower can look smaJJ in the center of a
large, open space. The landscape also determines how
finished the treJJis should look. A formal landscape may
cill for a treIJis that's sanded, fiJJed, and painted ro
match the house trim . In more casual surroundings, a
rough redwood cage or a frame of crooked branches
lashed rogether may be right at home.
TOP LEFT: A permanent trellis, such as this handsome cedar lattice
structure, i s a focal point i n the garden, even during the wi nter.
TO P RIGHT: Camouflaging an old shed is easy with a lath tre llis. Just be
sure the trellis can be easily removed for building maintenance.
BOTTOM LEFT: This neighborly fence is actually a series of trellis panels
linked together down the property line. Roses bloom between the panels.
BOTTOM RIGHT: This twiggy trellis, shaped l i ke a four-paneled
screen, has horizontal grids built from birch branches screwed into
the house wall.
TRELLIS KNOW-HOW 1 35
Shrubs for Privacy
C RO\\;' ING \N LNCLO S U RE
Fences and walls work well between neighboring proper­
ties, but often , especially where lots are small, standard
6-Eoot-tall fences don't block nearby views of unsightly
rooflines or a looming multistory building. In addition,
building codes generally don 't allow construction of any­
thing t,dler than 6 feeL And these facts don't even touch
on the expense and labor of building a fence or wall .
This is where plants come to the rescue.
Hedges, trees, and vines define garden boundaries
the same way a fence or wall does, but less rigidly and a t
far less expense. They c a n make a small space feel
enclosed but also lush , and some can be clipped into
narrow or creative shapes.
Shrubs are j ust about the most versatile group of
plants in size, shape, and foliage. Some, such as roses
and rhododendrons, are noted for their profusion of
spectacular flowers; others, like yew and box, for their
handsome foliage; and some, such as pyracanth a and
cotoneaster, for colorfu l berries.
The style and ambience of your house and garden
should also be a factor in your plans. Massing large and
small umril1ll1led shrubs can give your garden a sense of
A ta l l hedge provides a high degree of privacy without being as imposing
as a fence of the same height. The shrubs also visually soften and cool
the area and provide food and shelter for birds and butterflies.
wild, untamed nature, while neatly shaped and clipped
hedges have a much more formal appearance.
Think about your needs for privacy in particular
areas of your garden. Must the plam barrier be solid, or
would a light screen be enough? I f you wish merely to
diffuse a di rect view from the street to your front door,
a large open shrub, such as rhododendron, may do well.
But i f you want to completely block the view of an out­
door sitting area that abuts a neighbor's swimming pool,
a closely sheared p rivet hedge may be your best bet.
Shrubs are either deciduous or evergreen. What kind
of shrubs you choose depends on whether privacy is
desirable year-round or just during the growing
season. A patio that isn't used during the cold \\rinter
months could be sheltered spring th rough faU by lilacs,
which lose their leaves during the winter. For screening a
view into a bedroom window, though, a fast-growing
evergreen would be p referable.
TOP LEFT: When choosing plants for privacy, look for species with
four-season interest. Pink and white flowering dogwoods are perfect.
BOTTOM LEFT: Photinias growing in 24-inch-wide pots block out the
ne ighbor's roofline in this hil lside deck garden.
RIGHT: Bil lowy mountain laurel protects the house's front entrance from
sidewalk traffic and softens the briCk wall that shelters it.
U S I N G S H R U B S AS H E D G E S
Hedges are shrubs that have been planted t o form a solid
barrier or define a boundary. Although hedges also have
three dimensions, their primary emphasis in garden design
is their height and form . Besides transforming shrubs into
a linear barrier, clipping can also in crease the density of
the planting. Trimming the growing shoots on both sides
of the hedge encou rages the shrubs to grow toward each
other, knitting the plants into a continuous row that can
effectively block the view into or out of your garden.
SHRUBS FOR PRIVACY 1 37
TOP LEFT: A garden seems larger when some spaces are secluded from
others. A clipped hedge can hide a sitting area from view.
TOP RIGHT: Screens needn't be evergreen to be effective. Here, a row 01
crape myrtles with lower l imbs removed helps hide a neighbor's house.
Hedges generally come in two forms: formal and
informal. Formal hedges take up less space than informal
ones, making them ideal for small lots. But to maintain
their more rigid shape, formal hedges require regular
pruning-a chore you may not want to deal with. In gen ­
eral, plants with sm all, tight branching habits are best for
formal hedges: boxwood, barberry, or holly are good
choices.
Informal hedges, where plants are allowed to
spread out naturally, are better sui ted to open spaces.
Almost maintenance-free, they provide an effective
1 38 CREATING P R I VA C Y
BOTTOM LEFT: Removing the lower branches o f common boxwood allows
light and air to pass under and reveals the plants' structural qualities.
BOTTOM RIGHT: Hedge of Japanese anise d i vides two front yards.
Behind it is a second, taller hedge of 'Nellie R. Stevens' hol ly.
easy-care screen . For an informal hedge, try viburn u m ,
forsythia, honeysuckle, o r spiraea. Higher hedges,
especially dense ones, make very good insulators
against street noise.
M AS S I N G S H R U B S
Trees often are the most notable feature in a landscape,
but shrubs usually p rovide organization, offer a sense of
enclosure and give a garden its form and structure. L1
fact, you might think o f shrubs as the skeleton of the
garden.
 Shrubs offer a tremendously wide and varied
palette of leaf textures, growth habits, shapes, seasonal
leaf colors, and flower color and display. In fact, you
may have to resrrain yourself from choosing 100 many
differenr kinds for your garden. Because shru bs are
such strong srructural elements, maintain unity in the
design by limiting your selections 10 a few species and
varieries. Try to keep rhe same varieries roger her in
clumps or srrerches. If rhe same shrubs are dOlled all
over rhe garden, rhe eye will be busily drawn from one
to anorher, leading 1 0 a choppy effecr and chearing rhe
shrubs of rheir chance 1 0 sh ine.
Think also of uniry over rime. You may wish ro
choose evergreen shrubs for your major planrings so
thar you will have a green backdrop rhroughour the
year. This backdrop will give you visu'll privacy all year
long and can be enlivened wirh planrings of annuals
and perennials during rhe growing season. Deciduous
shrubs can be used along wirh rhe evergreens as accenrs
for their flowers, autumn foliage, and inreresring wimer
forms.
Like all planrs. sh rubs need pleI1lY of room 10
grow. To ensure rheir furure healrh, avoid the tempta­
tion 10 overplaI1l and be sure to take seriously the
mature dimensions of your plants. (To judge their ulti­
mate size, visit public parks and botanical gardens to
see mature specimens . ) Overcrowded shrubs wilfh ave
,I difficult time attaining their natural form and shape.
Besides, intertwined shrubs look messy and are hard
to comrol.
If planring other shrubs or large plants in froI1l of a
hedge, allow 12 10 1 8 inches or even more between the
hedge and the foreground plantings. This access is
importanr when the hedge needs clipping. It also allows
some visual depth between the foreg round and the
hedge, and the play of light and shadow against the
hedge can be very attractive.
LEFT: For a low-maintenance landscape, you can't beat drought-tolerant
plants, such as dwarf evergreens or deciduous, gold-leafed barberry.
RIGHT: Shrub roses make a colorful, easy-care hedge. These rugged
plants require only an annual pruning to keep them in good shape.
SHRUBS FOR P R I VACY 1 39

Trees for Privacy
TALL AND LEAFY S CREEN S
I f you live deep within a forest , privacy is probably no
problem. But even if space constraints don't allow you to
surround your home with groves of trees, trees singly or
in groups can create a sense of privacy and enclosure.
Use large trees to blot out a view or smaller t rees
with shrubs to achieve a lush effect. Trees provide the
vertical element in a garden design, while shrubs lend a
lower, more horizontal feeling. Because most tree
branches don't grow all the way to the ground, they
provide a screen from about eye level on up; for com­
plete visual protection, use them in tandem with shrubs,
fences, or walls.
Most t rees contribute more than j ust privacy to your
landscape. They can provide shade, fruit, and brilliant
fall color. Some can withstand-and even require-freez­
ing winters, while others enjoy baking summers. Some
trees retain their foliage year-round, and others let winter
sun th rough their bare branches.
140 C REATING P RIVACY
LEFT: Blazing canopy o f crape myrtle trees frames the entrance t o this
house and helps block the view into the courtyard.
RIGHT: Mulberry trees provide an umbrella of shade over this French­
style terrace i n summer but lose their leaves to admit winter sun.
With all these choices, deciding which trees will best
fiJI your needs is not an easy task. This section provides
the information you need to select trees that will give
you the most p rivacy.
Trees create privacy barriers around your home in
th ree main ways. One or two large trees can block an
unattractive view or screen views into your yard, a grove
of smaller trees can screen a larger area, and a row of
small t rees can achieve a hedge effect.
For more about trees and choosing the right one for
your landscape, see page 3 08 .
SKYLI N E TREES
Trees, such a s sugar maple, coast redwood, o r sycamore,
that have a large mature size will effectively create pri­
vacy. But they need a large area ro grow in so they won 't
overwhelm their surroundings. I f you're faced with a
view of a freeway or multistory apartment complex at
the end of your lot, one or two such trees may provide
just the visual barrier you need. Again, use these big
trees in your landscape with caution.
Remember that trees grow out as weLl as up.
The shape of a mature tree depends on its branching
structure and the rate of spread relative to upward
growth.
G R OV E S OF S M A L L T R E E S
Groupings o f moderate-sized o r small trees, such a s red­
bud, ginkgo, or snowball, can be placed at appropriate
spots to shelter the view from a neighbor's upstairs win­
dows or to screen undesirable views. Smaller versions of
these trees-particularly those with a smaller spread­
give you more flexibility to design and plant around
them, and they don't grow to dominate a garden.
H E D G E S O F T R E ES
A row of moderate- or small-sized trees can achieve the
effect o f a hedge, although i n most cases the screen will
not grow all the way to the ground. Some good candi­
dates for this treatment are hawthorn, crab apple, and
£lowering plum. You might use this kind of hedge
along a boundary line or across the front property line.
If you're willing to keep larger trees clipped back,
you can also use them as a screen. A row of podocarpus
makes an attractive lacy screen. Larger, faster-growing
trees, such as sycamore, can grow into a thick screen in
Tall, narrow trees are ideal for small lots where garden space is at a
premium. Here, columnar pines help block out unwanted views.
S HAPES O F TR EES
FASTIGIATE Thin a n d tapering a t the top a n d bottom , like the
Italian cypress ( Cupressus sempervirens). A row of these co u ld
create a tall, elegant hedge to block or frame a view.
COLUMNAR The shape of a narrow cylinder, like the Lombardy
poplar (Populus nigra 'Italica'). Trees of this shape can be
planted to achieve a hedge effect, or a single one may block
the view of a radio tower, utility pole, or another tall, slender
eyesore.
CONE-SHAPEO Tall-growing fir (Abies) or coast redwood
( Sequoia sempervirens) fits this category. A small grove of
these trees will conceal any large structures beyond them.
GLOBE Globe also means spherical, like beech (Fagus). Trees
of this shape are best used singly.
WEEPING The pendulous branches of this form, such as the
weeping willow (Salix babylonica), can create a soft visual
screen that breaks up a view rather than blocking it.
two or three years. Heading them back and giving
them a trim at front and back will encourage the side
branches to grow densely. This kind of clipping goes
against the true form of the tree, so it will be a constant
process, but your hedge will be thick and dense.
River birches provide cooling shade and add texture and color with their
flaking bark and dark green leaves with silvery undersides.
Vines for Privacy
U S E Tl {ESt: S C R A MBLERS TO COVER A N D CLOAK
These remarkably versatile plants can b e a boon to any
gardener who desires privacy. The fast growth rate of
many vines makes them perfect candjdates for temporary
screens as well as permanent plantings. Vines and
climbers are adaptable ro gardens of any size. They can
cover a broad area in a large garden or add thei r charm
ro a nook in small plOL Trailing vines can be planted
even in hanging c011lainers on a small deck or balcony to
shield the space from view.
Vines soften fences, walls, and freestanding screens,
,md can be used to accentuate o r ro break up the hori­
zontal line of these structures. A vine supported by a
crisscross of wires or latticework can create a leafy screen
to block the gaze of neighbors or passersby; it can also
set off or enclose different parts of your landscape. Many
vines, such as Virginia creeper and American bittersweet,
grow so rapidly that they cover a large expanse within a
single season. Others, such as wisteria, grow more slowly
but are still particularly effective when grown along a
high treUjs and alJowed to drape downward ro create a
light, delicate screen.
Some vines can provide a dense screen for privacy,
completely cover unsightly structures, or add height to a
constructed barrier. Less rampant or less densely grow­
ing vines can soften the contours of constructed barriers
and integrate them with the rest of the plantings in the
garden.
There are literalJy hundreds of vines from which to
choose-depending on your climate-ro obliterate a
view, weave a delicate tracery on a waU or trellis, create
a spectacular display of flowers, p roduce frui t , or cast
shade. To help find the one right for you, see the section
about vines, beginning on page 328.
Woody vines of Chinese wisteria cover this sturdy, weathered wood per·
gola. Its dramatic flower clusters dangl e u p to 3 feet in length, deli·
cately screening the porch without obstructing the view.
Evergreen or d e c i d u o u s A vine-covered arbor is the per­
fect way to obtain some overhead privacy and a bit
of shade during the summer. However, a deciduous vine
that loses its leaves in winter allows more sunlight to
penetrate during the winter. Most deciduous vines have
the added attraction of colorful foliage in the fall, and
the tracery of bare stems on a stone wall can be attrac­
tive during the winter, as well.
A n n u a l o r pere n n i a l Annual vines, such as sweet peas
and morning glories, can quickly create a light, colorful
screen from spring to autumn. Use them to augment the
screening effect of slower-growing plants. Because they
die back naturally at the end of the growing season, you
needn't worry about their overwhel mi.ng and stunting
the growth of neighboring plants. Peren nial vines, how­
ever, do not require replanting each year but likely need
studier supports and occasional pruning. Examples of
long-lived perennial vines are fiveleaf akebia, clematis,
climbing roses, and wisteria.
Flowers a n d fruit Many vines are grown primari.ly for
their flowers or fruit, but they can also serve as screens
TOP LEFT: Rugged perennial vines, such as clematis, grow bigger and
better each year. Established clematis requires little maintenance.
BOTTOM LEFT: In milder climates, climbing roses can grow to great
heights, smothering a trel l is, arbor, or screen with fragrant flowers.
RIGHT: This wrought iron trellis, cloaked with a climbing 'Dortmund'
rose, extends upward on the privacy of the wall behind it.
or adornments for privacy structures. Among vines
grown for flowers are clematis, jasmine, morning glory,
rose, and wisteria. The selection of vines with edible fruit
is much smaller, grapes being the most outstanding
example. Pole beans, such as ' Kentucky Wonder', create
a lush annual screen with the bonus of delicious fresh
produce.
Fast- or s l ow-growing Most vines are relatively fast­
growing. As with other types of plants, your initial
impulse may be to plant the fastest-growing kinds in
order to have the most coverage in the shortest amount
of time. This isn't necessarily a bad idea, but a rampant
vine will continue to grow at the same rate year after year
and will require a great deal of space, as well as annual
heavy pruning.
VINES FOR PRIVACY 1 43
IN THIS CHAPTER
Deciding What You Need
BEGIN BY ASKIN G-A N D A N S\x'ERI N G- B A S I C Q U E S T I O N S
\'(1hen you want to create a beautiful and functional
place for relaxing outdoors, the reality of your bare or
overgrown yard may seem daunting, Before getting down
to work, close your eyes and picture your dream garden,
Well-designed landscapes begin with decisions made
before the first spadeful of earth is turned, Do you want
an elegant, formal landscape or an outdoor room for
casual living and entertaining?
Do you want a plant-filled garden or a durable one
that C,1I1 withstand tricycle wheels and a game of tag?
Do you like to read and sunbathe or play badminton or
croquet? Do you enjoy gardening, or do you prefer a
minimum of effort) Do you want to produce fresh
fruits and vegetables) Is privacy a priority) Answering
these questions and carefully evaluating your lifestyle
will help determine what you want in your outdoor
space, Keep in mind that there are limits to what any
landscape can include , Make a checklist of items that
are essential to you and your family and include them i n
your plan , b u t b e prepared t o compromise o n t h e less
important elements or create a timetable for including
them later.
Like most homeowners, you probably have both
aesthetic and practical aims in mind, You may wish to
Picket fence encloses this welcoming entry garden, where colorful
annuals and perennials mix with culinary herbs and vegetables,
replacing a traditional lawn, Meandering path leads to a restful bench,
beautify your property with colorful flower borders and
beds. You may want space for growing fruits, vegeta­
bles, or herbs for use in your kitchen , or you may want
to show off roses or rock garden plants. Beauty and
functionality can also be incorporated into the garden
structures you choose. Well-designed decks, pathways,
and patios can increase the value of your house. In
addition, some structures, such as benches that hide
storage beneath, can serve dual purposes.
Your family's needs will also dictate other aspects of
your design. If children, elderly, or disabled persons use
the landscape, you may value safety and ease of move­
ment. Secure fences are a safeguard against the potential
dangers of swimming pools, driveways, and roads.
Similarly, graded paths and ramps, night lighting, and
stable deck and stair railings make a garden accessible ro
all who use it.
To make your landscape more comfortable, you may
slightly modify the climate. Trees or shade structures
offer respite from the heat, walls or dense plantings
TOP LEFT: Taking its cue from the surrounding naturat woodland, this
beautiful landscape features dogwood trees and azaleas.
BOTTOM LEFT: A weathered cedar arbor, covered i n grapes, provides
a cool, shady resting spot from which to view bordering meadow.
RIGHT: An arbor encloses a private space, a perfect spot to relax.
A path from the arbor leads through meticulous beds of perennials.
buffer strong winds, sun pockets collect warmth, and
overheads provide cover on rainy days.
Consider, also, how much upkeep you're willing to
take on. To reduce the amount of time and effort
required, avoid high-maintenance features such as lawns,
sheared hedges, or trees that drop autumn liner. And
installing an automatic irrigation system not only saves
time but also delivers water most efficiently.
Fin ally, think about the range of activities you wish to
enjoy in it. Do you frequently entertain outdoors with
dinners and special events? Do you pursue activities such
as swimming or tennis? Or do you find enjoyment in sim­
ply relaxing in a quiet outdoor retreat? Be realistic about
O E C I O I NG W H AT Y O U NE E O 1 47
tbe- SPJCc required for each purpose and about your s ite's
potcmial. Most sports are difficult on a sloping lot, for
ex ample. You will also want to be considerate of your
neigJlbors. Raising llam'ls may not be appropriate (or
legaD in a residential ser.ting, and few neighbors would
appreciate a noisy skateboard ramp adjacent to their
bedroom window.
As illustrated at right, a garden can be designed to
incorporate its occupants' various goals. This garden plan
will appear in various stages throughout this chapter, as
you foUow the process of landscaping from start to finish.
o Create privacy The walled patio is really an extension of the
living room. It creates an enclosed space 'a nd conceals the
front yard from passersby. A pond with a bubbler helps mask
traffic noise.
o Invite entertaining A broad deck wraps around the fam ily
and dining rooms to offer plenty of outdoor space for d i nner,
parties, or simple relaxation in view of (but removed from)
the swi m m i n g pool.
G Provide recreation The swimming pool is a great way to
cool off on hot s u mmer days. (Solar water-heating panels on
the roof could extend the season of use.) An arbor shelters
the spa.
1 48 MAKING YOUR PLAN
G Modify the climate Clothed with vines, this a rbor shades
southern exposures from the sum mer sun, while allowing in
the low winter sun to warm the house. Around the pool,
screen plantings filter the strong s u m m er winds.
G Beautify the property Lush plantings between the sidewal k
and front patio w a l l create an attractive view from t h e
street, soften t h e l i n e s o f t h e h o u s e and w a l l , a n d add color.
o Grow a kitchen garden Raised beds along the south side of
the rear yard offer an ideal s pot for raising herbs and
vegetables and are convenient to both the kitchen and the
garden work area next to the garage.
e Attract wildlife Plantings-native and otherwise-a nd a
bird bath l u re birds a n d butterflies. The deck is a secluded
viewing spot.
4) Reduce water use The s i mplest way to reduce landscape
water is to a pply m u l c h libera lly t h roughout the garden.
Reducing the size of your lawn a lso has a n i m m ediate and
sign ificant positive i m pact on water consu m ption.
Bird's-eye view from the second-story roof shows wide stone-edged paths
that separate color-themed garden beds. In a quiet nook, Adirondack
chairs and a small table invite conversation.
A We l l - D e s i g n e d La n d s c a pe . ,\",

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DECIDING W H AT YOU NEED 1 49

Assessing What You Have
Every property presents unique opportunities, but along
with them come unique challenges. As you begin the
process of planning your ideal landscape, you need to
realistically assess both pluses and min uses before find­
ing a way to balance them with the features you want i n
your landscape. You will also need to evaluate any man­
made features in your garden and any existing plantings,
especially trees and large shrubs. Sketching these fea­
tu res on paper gives you a base plan-a working docu­
ment for the design stage.
You'll save yourself hours of measuring if you can find
any of the foilowing: a deed map that gives actual dimen­
sions and the orientation of your property; a topographi­
cal plan, with contour lines showing the exact shape of
your site; or architectural plans that depict the site plan
wid1 the location of ail buildings. If none of these is avail­
able, you will need to measure your property yourself and
transfer the dimensions to the base plan, preferably on
graph paper, using a scale of Y; inch to 1 foot.
Later, slip this base plan under a sheet of tracing
paper and sketch designs to your heart's content. This
gives you a chance to try out a variety of ideas before
laying out everything on site-or worse, installing a
structure or planting and finding it doesn't suit the
Y O U R B A S E P LAN
Show the following o n your base plan:
• Compass directions to help you identify exposures and
patterns of sun and shade.
• Boundaries and dimensions of the lot and the outlines of
the house and other structures.
• Location of all windows and doors on your house. Note
the height of their sills above the exterior grade.
• Eaves, overhangs, downspouts, and drains.
• Existing paved areas, as well as their condition and
usefulness.
• Existing steps or ram ps, as well as their condition and
usefulness.
• Location of util ities, easements, and setback boundaries.
• Existing plants, including the sizes, sha pes, and general
health of all pla nts, especially trees.
e Topography, including high and low points and slope
gradients.
• Soil conditions, including areas that have been raised or
filled, soil texture,
fertility, and pH.
Direction of
•

prevailing
space, the p roperty's microclimates, or your needs.
winds
throughout
START I N G TO PLAN
the year.
Identify those aspects of the landscape that you wish to
keep, as weil as those you want to change. I f you have
just moved into your home, don't pick u p a shovel and
start digging just yet. Try to live with a new property for
a full year; you will get to know your garden th rough the
seasons and can experiment with various plants. A
design you make with a thorough knowledge of your
property will fit your needs better.
After you have an intimate knowledge of the exist­
ing landscape, you can confidently go about removing
or changing certain features. Don 't feel that you have to
design your landscape around an existing feature, living
o r nonliving, just because it is there. If you're lan dscap­
ing just one problem area of your garden, consider the
impact the upgrade will have on the rest of the site.
Keep in mind the landscape as a whole, both for the
present and the future.

1 50 MAKING YOUR PLAN

A n a Iyzi n g Yo u r P ro p e rty
Here are some of t h e problems a n d opportunities
p resenred by this site. Compare this illusrration [0
me one on page 149 [0 see how the final design
deals wim mem.

Front view from the living room is of noisy street traffic,

passersby, and parked cars. o
Damp pockets of soil can limit plant choices.
� Warm air blows in summer from the southwest (C);
winter winds blow from the north (D).
G
.'

Concrete terraces reflect excessive heat into the home ':

-;ir G_
and are too small for enterta ining. , j -'
'; ,'J'--t
o

�
Neighbors' homes are close to the property line, thus
limiting privacy. l,

O Gently sloping land and existing trees could be incorpo- «)

rated into the garden design.

===-=-
1-
«) Open, sunny areas in the rear and on the south side L=:= _________ - �
-
_

yard offer space for a swi mming pool or for sun-loving NORTH . - -
-

plantings .
.. Rear views from the patio are pleasant in one d i rection
(I) but unpleasant in another (J).

STAY I N G L E G A L • Tree or historic preservation ordinances

Local zoning or omer laws may restrict or prohibit your
planned construction. Consult me following documenrs,
agencies, or individuals before proceeding and note any
relevant restrictions on your base plan.
Your property deed
• Exact location o f property lines
• Easemenrs or rights-of-way
• Building permits for fences, retaining walls above 3 0
inches in height, other garden structures, and electrical
or plumbing work
Your u t i l ity company
• Location and depth of underground utility lines
• Building or planting limitations under power lines

• Building restrictions Your water company

• Tree-removal restrictions • Restrictions on water use for irrigation, pools, and
water features
Your b u i ld i ng or p l a n n i n g department • Lm
i itations on lawn size
• Setback requiremenrs
• Height limitations for fences, buildings, or other Your neighbors
structures • Their views into your property (and your view into
• Lot coverage guidelines theirs) and your mutual need for privacy, quiet, sun­
• Safety codes for pools and spas light, and air flow
• Requiremenrs for fire walls between adjacenr buildings • Their concerns about existing trees and other plants,

• Open-burning restrictions for firepits structures, and shared walks or driveways

• Building codes for all construction • Homeowners' association restrictions

DECIDING W H AT Y O U NEED 151

Making the Most of Microclimates
I n planning your landscape, consider the climate and
weather variations in both your region and your own
landscape. The sun's path and angle, the seasons, and the
wind patterns around your property ali affect opportuni­
ties for outdoor living, the choice and placement of
plants, and the overall design of the landscape.
A tender plant freezes in one garden, while its twin
thrives in a garden just down the street. A ground cover
blooms heavily in the sun but grows thin and sparse a
few feet away in the shade. Microclimates are responsi­
ble. Most gardens have several microclimates-areas that
are a little warmer or cooler, wetter or d rier, calmer or
windier than others. Microclimates are created by a COJll ­
bination of factors, including sun angle, wind direction,
and the site's exposure and topography.
A I R T E M P E R AT U R E A N D M OV E M E N T
Because warm air rises and cold air sinks, cool a i r tends
to pool in low places and back up behind obstacles, such
S u n Angles
.,
WINTER SUN ANGLE
1 52 MAKING YOUR PLAN
as hedges and houses, creating frost pockets. Slopes are
the last features in a landscape t o freeze, because cold air
constantly drains off them , mixing with nearby warmer
air as it flows. Flat areas, b y contrast, cool off quickly as
heat radiates upward, especially during nights when the
air is stili and skies are clear. Any overhead protection
reduces this loss of heat.
I f you check your garden on a morning when the
temperature is around 32°F, you 'l l see where frost has
collected. Keep tender plantings away from these areas
or provide the plants with extra frost protection.
Wind can be a factor, too. During the daytime,
heated air rises, pulling in surrounding cooler air. At
night, as the land cools off, air flow is reversed.
Gardens near the ocean generally lie in the path of
winds. I f you live at the base of canyons, the effects can
be even more pronounced, leading to wind tunnels and
strong breezes.
STR U CT U R A L I N F L U E N C E S
Keep i n mind that structures and materials influence
microclimates on your property. The presence of water­
a swimming pool, pond, or water fearure-moderates
the air temperature. Certain hardscape m a terials reflect
sun and heat better than others. Light-colored masonry
paving and walls spread sun and heat and can be uncom­
fortably bright; wood surfaces are a little cooler. On the
other hand, dark materials, such as asphalt, retain heat
even after dark. Plants and buildings also
filter or block wind.
parr of your landscape in shade during the dormant sea­
son and more of it in the sun when plants are growing.
The pattern of sun and shade also varies depending on
the time of day; at noon, when the sun is highest, there is
little shade to be found.

S U N AND SHADE EXPOS U R E

I n summer, the morning sun rises i n the northeast, arcs
high across the southern sky, and sets in the evening to
the northwest. This long passage means extra hours of
daylight. By contrast, the winter sun rises in the south­
east, p asses low across the southern sky, and sets to the
southwest. Days are much shorter at the winter solstice
i n December.
That shifting sun angle means longer shadows in
winter when the sun is low in the sky-leaving a greater
Slopes that drop to the south or southwest get more
heat during the day than those that drop to the north or
northeast. Similarly, walls that run east-west reflect extra
heat and sunlight onto plants on their south sides. Walls
that run north-south reflect extra heat to plants growing
on their west sides, but cooler l11icroclimates are created
on their east sides. Sunny locations are best for heat­
loving plants, but the soil also dries out faster and
requires extra watering.

S h a d ows C h a n ge w i t h Sea s o n s
SUMMER WI NTER

10 AM

�
In summer, Winter shadows
only those areas are much longer
immediately .,� and can shift

/
beside the house dramatically within
HOUSE
are shaded. Note the space of a few
'<-----,/ HOUSE /
\
how features of / hours. Compare
the house, such NOON the shadow cast
as the roof, "- at noon to that
"-...
affect the shad­ cast at 2 pm.
NORTH �
ows below.
, Iz�'
2 PM
NORTH �

CO LD-A I R P O C KETS
THIS AREA IS
PROTECTEO
/

COLO AIR
POOLS HERE

OECIOING W H AT Y O U NEEO 1 53

Making the Most of Slopes
There's a good reason why real estate agents are eager to
poim out a flat lot when selling a home. The more
steeply sloped a lot is, the less usable space it has. But
that doesn't mean you can't turn a potentially negative
situation into a positive one.
As the illustrations at right demonstrate, how you go
about dealing with a slope depends on how much slope
you have. A slightly sloped lot is actually advantageous,
because it's easy to direct rainwater away from the house,
and your usable space is almost the same as with a flat lot.
1 54 MAKING YOUR PLAN
Terraced plantings connected by grass wal kways lead visitors gently
around a steep grade in a Minnesota garden. Grass walkways are level,
making mowing safe and easy. The elevated deck provides a vantage
point to enjoy both the garden and the scenic st. Croix River.
Steeply sloped lots, however, present a challenge.
Creating level, usable spaces, such as lawns, play areas, a
pool, and garden beds, requires liberal use of retaining
waJls. Construction costs can be considerable. An easier
and less expensive alternative is to dedicate steep slopes
to native vegetation that controls erosion, maintains
privacy, and needs little maintenance (see top center
photo on opposite page). Forget about growing grass on
steep slopes. Mowing on an angle is the easiest way to
hurt yourself.
LEFT: A series of landings breaks up a set of stairs. Changing the haven by planting native grasses and butterfly-attracting coneflowers
direction of the walk at each landing makes the climb less daunting. that blend into the surrounding prairie landscape.
CENTER: A steep, unmowable slope has been transformed into a wildl ife RIGHT: Soft masses of cranesbill, silver artemisia, and bright b l ue
larkspur and spiderwort fill stone retaining walls l i ning a brick path.

Th ree D e g rees of S l o pe
e Shallow slope: To create a level lawn area in front, the
grade has been raised at the street and lowered i n front of
the house. Ground cover has been planted on the slopes Streetside
edging the driveway and entrance walk. In the backyard, ter­
races with steps between create level areas for a lawn, play
yard, and planting beds.

G Medium slope: Low reta i n i n g walls in front create five d if­

ferent levels; four levels solve the slope problem in the
backyard. The lawn has a gentle slope, so the mower
need not be lifted or pulled up and down steps.

G Steep slope: The sim plest and least expensive

way to create level space on a steep lot is to
build a deck. Planting to bring foliage to
deck height lessens the feeling of Tree roots
being perched above ground
level.
Containers permit
Terraced retaining walls

serves as seat

Steps need
frequent landings
,,;#'---__ Landing interrupts
flight of stairs

DECIOING W H AT YOU NEED 1 55

Planning on Paper
DEVELOPING T H E B I G P I CTURE
Now that you've identified the basic features and found
a garden style, you're ready to put your creativity to
work. The first step is site planning-creating and
arranging the activity spaces in your garden. Carefully
study how ali these spaces relate to the rooms inside
your house and try to locate the outdoor activity spaces
near their indoor counterparts. For example, if young
children are a part of the family, place their outdoor play
space near a room in the house where you spend a lot of
time, so that you can keep an eye on them. Organize veg­
etable and herb gardens near the kitchen, if possible, to
make an easy chore of bringing the harvest to the table.
Decide whether some areas of the garden should serve
multiple functions-whether a sheltered walkway could
also house a composting area, for example.
Look at your entire garden and lay our spaces that
o Small 101 G Irregular 101
1 56 MAKING YOUR PLAN
will flow logically and easily from one to the other. Plan
a path, for example, that won't require walking through
a work area or past the trash cans to get from a sitting
area to the swimming pool. Settle on an arrangement of
planted areas that allows you to group plants according
to their irrigation needs. As you sketch, you'll begin to
make general decisions about the plants and structures
you'll need and where they should go. Even if you don't
use bubble planning (far right) to help you mock up
some designs, refer frequently to your base plan to
remind you of site features and conditions.
O D D-S H A P E D LOTS
Don't be concerned if your property doesn't resemble
the simple rectangle shown in the previous pages. Not ali
urban and suburban properties are laid out on a grid
t.... ) ..I i.
pattern with rectangular lots. Many properties, because
of topography or the street pattern, have an irregular
shape or are carved out of uneven terrain. A cul-de-sac B U B B LE D IAGRAMS
subdivision, for example, results in pie-shaped lots with
minimal street frontage and plenty of private backyard
space, while in some older commLUlities, deep, narrow
lots are common. And, of course, sloping lots present a
different set of challenges from those on flat ground (see
pages 1 5 4 and 1 5 5 ) . Whatever your lot size and shape,
the tips and techniques described here will help you
make the most of it.
Before getting carried away with the excitement of
crearing a whole new garden, now is a good time to con­
sider the tinle, effort, and financial implications of your
decisions. Like many homeowners, you may want to
approach the landscaping process in stages. If so, iden­
tify features you'd like to have right away and those that
can be added as tinle and money allow.

T H R E E LOTS, T H R E E S O L U T I O N S
G Avoid the feel o f a bowling alley i n a long space by
dividing it into smaller units, each for a different func­
tion. Staggering the spaces disguises the linear character
of the lot. Here a hedge separates a large dining terrace
from a secluded bedroom retreat and from the swim­
ming pool. The pool terrace merges into a graveled herb
garden. Behind the pool house is a small vegetable patch
with a work area under the arbor.
o Don't be discouraged by a small lot. Make it seem
larger by concealing the property line with dense shrub­
bery, emphasizing long diagonal lines, and hiding parts
of the garden from view. Here, the focal point at the end
of the angled deck is a bench that looks toward a curved
bench beyond the pond, not visible from the main deck.
A tall, angled hedge screens a functional vegetable gar­
den, and the fences support berries and vines, making
use of every possible gardening space.
G Opportunities abound in odd-shaped properties
such as this corner lot, which has plenty of room for a
series of different garden areas. Terracing the gentle
slope of the fenced side yard creates a generous veg­
etable, herb, and cutting garden within easy reach of the
kitchen. A continuous patio area that unites all parts of
the garden widens at the rear to provide ample space for
entertaining. A small circular lawn nestles into one cor­
ner. A secluded terrace and shade-loving plants fill the
narrow side yard.
To experiment with various arrangements o f space in your
proposed landscape, try the designer's trick of using simple
"bubble diagrams." These quick studies can be drawn on trac­
ing paper over the base plan you've made of your property
(page 1 50). Each bubble (actually a rough circle, square, or
oval) should represent a particular activity or outdoor space
that you hope to incorporate into your design, and each should
be approximately the size and shape needed. You can even
make the bubbles different colors to distinguish them from
each other (use green for planting areas, blue for a pool, and
brown for decks and patios).
Let the bubbles overlap where activity spaces will merge
with each other. Where spaces need to be separated, draw a
line to suggest a screen or barrier. Simple cross-hatching can
designate areas that need overhead protection from the sun.
Show steps as sets of parallel lines and roughly indicate
entrances to your house or front yard.
Sketch several versions, considering with each one the
microclimates, potential views, and existing features identified
on your base plan. Note how well the placement of activities in
each diagram takes advantage of the warm spots and shady
areas in your garden. Look for smooth transitions from one
space to the next and address practical issues by including
spaces for work, storage, and service areas.
After you've completed several diagrams, lay them out and
compare the different arrangements of spaces, and then settle
on the one that will form the basis for your final design.

PLANNING ON PAPER 1 57
Working with Shapes and Lines
When your experiments with bubble diagrams (see page
157) have resulted in a rough sketch, lay a clean sheet of
tracing paper on top of it. On this sheet, begin drawing in
the various elements of the final design-hard-surfaced
areas, walls or hedges, arbors or trees for shelter, gardening
spaces, and perhaps a pool, hot tub, potting table, compost
pile, or dog l"Wl. This schematic drawing will be rough at
first, but it will take shape as you continue.
At this point, keep in mind two tricks of the landscape
designer. Work with clear, simple shapes and relate those
shapes to the lines of your house. A design that's made up
of familiar shapes, such as squares, rectangles, triangles, or
circles, is easier to understand than one filled with abstract
lines. Repeating a familiar shape brings simplicity and
order to the design, unifying beds, borders, paving, walls,
arbors, and other features. To add interest, vary the sizes of
the shapes you work with and allow them to overlap or
G Rectangular plan
1 58 MAKING YOUR PLAN
interlock. But don't use too many little shapes, o r you'll
end up with a very busy design.
W O R K I N G W I T H G R I DS
After playing with simple geometric patterns, you may
feel that a little more variety is necessary. A curving line
may be needed to connect two rectangular spaces, or a
diagonal line may emphasize the longest dimension in a
small garden. As you become more adventurous in your
design, you may find it easier to work with a grid module
( 4 , 5 , or 6 feet on a side) repeated over and over, like the
squares on a checkerboard or the bricks in a wall. Fit the
garden's structures and plantings to the dimensions of
that module, allowing some elements to intersect or
interlock with each other, while letting others split a
module in half. The dimension of one or two modules
can form the radius for a curved line.
G Triangular plan
e Circular plan
o Visualizing a grid
e Spacious lawn
The grid system speeds the decision -making process
as you determine the dimensions of decks, pathways, and
planting beds. It also aJJows you to quickly calculate
quantities for paving, decking, or soil amendments, and
it simplifies do-it-yourself instaJJation by lening you
pave, pour, or plow only one module at a time.
O N E LA N D S C A P E , FO U R WAYS
S These simple plans were created for the same basic
lot using one of three different geomerric shapes (square,
triangle, rectangle, or circle) [0 guide the design. Each
design presents a similar arrangement of paved
terrace, small lawn area, and planting beds with a mix of
ground covers, shrubs, and trees. The repetition of a
different geomerric shape gives each design a distinct
character, but all share a contemporary feeling.
To follow this approach in your own landscape,
select a shape that appeals to you and use it for the
largest element i n your design-perhaps the terrace,
lawn area, or swimming pool. Repeat the shape in
smaller elements, such as the flower beds, vegetable gar­
den, and pond. Shapes that emphasize the diagonal­
offset squares or triangles-make a garden appear larger.
Long rectangles or circles, especially when symmetricaJJy
placed, appear more formal. Whatever shape you use,
o large trellis
4) Circular lawn
play with the alignment and position of elements in a
symmetrical or asymmetrical arrangement. Eventually,
you'll settle on a balance that pleases you.
VISUALIZING A GR I D
o Connect the garden to the architecture of your
house with grid lines that run out to the landscape from
major features of the house. Here, lines marking the
doorways, windows, and corners of wings have been
drawn on the plan of the garden. Elements, such as
flower beds, paved terraces, and pools, can then be
placed within this irregular grid pattern.
T H R E E P LA N S FOR A R ECTA N G U LA R LOT
� The gardens use the simple 5-by-5 - foot grid to show
very different design solutions for a rectangular prop­
erty. Garden 0incorporates a large overhead trellis or
arbor to shade a portion of the paved terrace, while an
L-shaped fence and planting bed screen a vegetable
garden, compost area, and work area from view. Garden
e allows more space for a sweeping lawn, backed up
by a curving line of trees [0 enclose the garden. A round
pond echoes the curve of the lawn. Garden 4) places a
bold, circular lawn just off-center, almost surrounded by
a paved surface of varying width.
PLANNING ON PAPER 1 59
Learning from the Pros
U S I N C PROVEN TEC H N I Q U E S
Experienced landscape professionals work with several
basic design principles. After years of practice, they have
absorbed these guidelines so completely that they apply
them automatically when designing a garden. Design
principles apply at all levels of landscaping, from the
most elaborately constructed feature to the simplest of
planting compositions.
You can learn a lot by studying gardens that you
visit or see in magazines, as well as fwm those illus­
trated throughout this book. In a well-designed land­
scape, no one plant, structure, or feature stands out too
much. Instead, all the parts work together to establish a
1 60 MAKING YOUR PLAN
sense o f unity. Note how plants o r construction materi­
als are used with repetition or placed for d ramatic
emphasis. AJJ the elements should be in p roportion to
the rest of the garden and in scale with the size of the
house, and the property. Also, note how h a rmony is
achieved by balancing simplicity {in form , texture, and
color} and variety ( i n materials and plants) .
Repetition and emphasis are featured in this border dividing garden from
lawn. Conical, evergreen arborvitae unify the border and give depth to
the rhododendrons.
TOP: Harmony of colors is the theme of this poolside patio, where BOTTOM RIGHT: Simplicity reigns in a garden nook surrounded by shade­
similarly toned surfaces are a foil for brightly flowering perennials. loving hostas. An evergreen tree shelters the sun-warmed bench.
BOTTOM LEFT: Unity of design marks this drought-busting garden of
grasses and stone. Path and plants echo soft blue and tan colors.

LEARNING FROM THE PROS 161

TOP LEFT: In this formal garden, the path is an axis line that divides the
lawn and symmetrically cl ipped hedges.
BOTTOM LEFT: An accent draws attention to itself by contrasting boldly
with its surroundings, as this bright yellow chrysanthemum does.
The Language of Landscape Design
Whatever landscape style you choose, your plan will be
most successful if you observe some simple principles o f
design, which i n [ u r n requires [hat y o u become familiar
with [he terms used by landscape p rofessionals. Some
of these terms are used throughout [he broad field of
design. Focal point and symmetry, for example, are used
1 62 MAKING YOUR PLAN
RIGHT: Textures may be fine or coarse, delicate or bold. Here, the bold
form of a variegated century plant adds variety to the garden.
b y architects, imerior designers, and graphic artists
alike. Other terms, such as borrowed scenery, are spe­
cific to landscape design. In this book, these terms are
used to describe [he features of various gardens.
Knowing these terms, you'll find it easier to communi­
care with professionals.
TOP LEFT: A focal point, such as this jar at the end of a path, draws the
eye by its placement or the distinctiveness of its features.
TOP RIGHT: Symmetry exists when matching elements, such as these BOTTOM: Borrowed scenery incorporates views from beyond the garden
crape myrtles, are balanced on either side of a central axis. to make it seem larger. See·through fence panels reveal the city.

LEARNING fROM THE PROS 1 63

Landscape Design Tricks
In addition to basic design principles, p rofessionals have
an array of tricks at their disposal-techniques that help
overcome typical challenges or simply make the garden
more attractive and livable for occupants and visitors.
Some of these ideas are very basic, such as under­
standing the dimensions of the human body in designing
the height and size of structures in the garden. For
example, the best ratio for stair risers and treads is based
on dimensions that are the most comfortable for people
to climb (see page 1 1 1 ) . Similarly, pathways are the most
comfortable when they are more than 4 feet wide, and
built-in seating for decks or benches should be 16 to 1 7
inches deep. Other techniques involve altering the per­
ception of space by manipulating materials, colors, and
A large element in the foreground enhances depth. Framed by the cherry
tree, the background appears deeper than it is. The strong forms of the
conifers in the midground add perspective, as does the curving path.
textures; by taking advan tage of changes in the garden's
elevation; or by placing elements to mask the size and
shape of a space.
Bring your garden design to life by illcorporating
some of these tricks. They can be particularly helpful if
you're renovating or upgrading all existing landscape or
i f a particular area of your garden has never pleased you.
As you develop your ideas, refer to your bubble plall
(see page 1 5 7 ) alld to basic design principles to make
sure you haven't forgotten your original intentions amid
the flurry of other considerations. There will be plenty of
opportullity to add whimsy and interest to the garden as
you choose plants, structures, and accessories to com­
plete your garden's design.
LE FT: Steps up to the white arch, as well as the arch itself, suggest
that this area leads to a larger garden beyond. In fact, the garden ends
at the hemlock hedge i n the background.
TOP RI GHT: Concea l i ng part of the garden makes even a small space
feel larger. Here, winding paths lead past a bed of col orful conifers
that hide a granite basin fountain hidden.
BOTTOM RIG HT: Contrasting levels enlarge the apparent space,
espec ially if emphasized by steps or planting beds. Even a change
of a few inches is effective.
LEARNING fROM THE PROS f 65
Designing Structures
Focus next on creating structure i n your garden, defining
spaces with horizontal and vertical planes and creating
privacy i n the process.
E N C LO S I N G YO U R LA N D S C A P E
Just as the rooms i n your house have walls and ceilings
to give them form and function, so should the space in
your landscape be designed with enclosing fences, walls,
or hedges and ceilings of tree canopies, arbors, or
aWlllllgs.
Wa l l s a n d fences These serve several functions in a
landscape. They can shade areas that are too warm or
reduce the chilling effects of strong winds. They can col­
lect the sun's rays to warm a cozy spot or direct cooling
b reezes to moderate the temperature. A well-placed
fence or wall can screen unsightly views while framing
those you wish to enjoy. It can also enhance the feeling
of privacy by blocking a neighbor's view into your land­
scape. Low walls, perhaps with built-in benches, define
but don't confine a garden space. Both green and nonliv­
ing walls add beauty and expand the gardening space on
a small lot by supporting c1inlbing plants.
Ceil i ngs and canopies Although it may seem odd to
consider ceilings or roofs i n the out-of-doors, both create
comfortable and functional spaces i n a landscape. While
a swimming pool or vegetable garden needs only the sky
for a cover, other outdoor activities benefit from more
intimate overheads. Sitting and dining areas need over­
hanging tree branches, arbors, or vines on taut wires to
block excessive sunlight.
Rain won't interrupt a n otherwise perfect day i f your
dining terrace has a solid roof over it. A partial or
retractable cover is ideal where the climate can change
measurably in one day or through the seasons. Carefully
placed, a tree or overhead structure can also screen out a
tall building nearby or block views from your neighbor's
second-story windows into your private garden. A n over­
head can also support a collection of hanging potted
plants, thereby increasing gardening space.
Plants or structures? Structures, such as walls, fences,
and overheads, are generally more expensive than hedges,
1 66 MAKING YOUR PLAN
shrub borders, o r vines for trellises, but you should
balance the additional cost against how quickly you want
your landscape to take shape. Plants usually take several
years to achieve as much screening and enclosure as a
fence, and trees may take 1 0 years or more to provide the
shade created by an arbor built i n a weekend. I f neither
money nor time is an object, space may be. Hedges take
up more room than does a 6-i.nch-thick fence.
C h oo s i n g E n c l o s u res
o A fence around t h e rear and s i d e yards defines the garden's
boundaries while s u p porting vertical gardening (vines,
espa l iers, or hanging pots). To unify the garden with a
common backdrop, maintain the same fence design
throughout. C hoose a material that suits your house's archi­
tecture.
o Extending the fence into the front yard creates a small,
private sitting area next to the living room. Use the i nside
wall for a collection of i nteresting sculptures or hanging
baskets fi lled with colorful a n n uals. The large native oak
provides a generous but open canopy overhead.
G Hedges and trellises on the property line a re generally not
subject to zoni n g restrictions. Here, a s i m ple wire trellis for
vi nes extends a bove the maxi m u m fence height to i ncrease
privacy and the sense of enclosure. Citrus trees form a tall,
unsheared hedge for the same purpose.
G Lattice screen along the south side of the m a i n deck
provides seclusion from neighbors as well as a support for
flowerin g vi nes. Its open structure a l lows cooling breezes to
flow through.
o Overhead a rbor coveri ng the deck protects people and
pla nts from the heat of the midday s u n . The a rbor's wooden
crosspieces run from east to west to provide maxi m u m
s h a d i n g.
o Existing deciduous trees create a shady roof over the tiny
wild garden retreat. Bare branches a l low warming sun light
t h rough i n winter, encourag i n g year-round use.
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1 61
Flooring the Outdoor Room
T ust as indoor floors serve many purposes, those in the
'
landscape also meet di fferent needs, The most obvious
is as a su rface for walking, playing, or placing fu rn i ­
t u re, G a rden floors c a n also modify the climate: A
large concrete slab will reflect t h e s u n 's heat into w i n ­
dows and under arbors, w h i le d a r k pavement, such as
asphalt, will collect heat during the day a n d release i t
at n i g h t . In contrast, a l u s h ground cover w i l l reduce
the air temperature by several degrees. Garden floors
can be decorative as well as functional, provi d i n g an
unbroken carpet of green foliage or an elaborate p l a n t ­
i n g of b r i g h t l y colored flowering plants. T h e y a l s o play
a protective role, covering the soil and p reven ting ero­
sion from exposure to the rain and w i n d .
F L O O R I N G MATE R I A L S
Outdoor floors c a n b e m uch more varied i n character
than those indoors. They can be permeable or paved to
make them i mpervious to water. Areas where traffic is
heavy require a firm su rface; paving u n i t s of concrete
slabs or brick, block, or stone can be laid on sand or
mortar. Wood is a serviceable material, particularly
when raised above ground level as a deck. Softer, more
permeable materials able to h andle fairly heavy traffic
incl ude gravel and crushed stone i n varying grades,
organic m ulches of redwood bark, and sawn tree
rounds.
L I V I N G S U R FA C E S
Where a sports or p l a y area c a l l s f o r a soft b u t sturdy
cushion-l ike floor, a turf grass lawn i s about t h e only
sol ution . These grasses tolerate the often i n tense activ­
i t y of children a n d athletes. To keep a well- used lawn
i n top con dition, however, you'll need to schedule reg­
ular m a i n tenance. Although other living gro u n d covers
will tolerate a small amount o f foot t r affic, most will
not take any more t h a n occasional wear.
Turf grasses most commonly used in lawns origi­
nated i n regions with steady moisture, either in north­
ern Europe or the subtropics. Most respond poorly to
arid clim ates without tremendous amounts of water
wh ich i s often a l i m i ted resource. Give serious thou h t
1 68 MAKING YOUR PLAN
t o the p u rpose o f the lawn you are considering. I f i t i s
not to be used as an acti v i ty surface, i n vestigate other
ground covers or su rfaces that will conserve water better
than common turf grasses.
C h oo s i n g S u rfa c e s
o Main deck, raised above ground level, offers a generous a n d
f i r m surface f o r outdoor enterta ining. It serves w e l l for
games, parties, cooking, and si mple relaxation.
o Tiny deck in the wild garden m a rks a q u iet retreat, with j ust
enough space for two or th ree chairs with i n view of the pool
and m a i n deck. Its rough wood suits the rustic corner.
G Flat lawn of dwarf tall fescue offers a soft surface for you to
relax in the sun, kids to play, or for a dog to cavort. It also
serves as a low foreground to both the rose garden a n d the
wild garden
G Pool deck has nonskid footing and a n ea sy-to-clean
surface. It is broad enough for s u n bathing without see m i n g
to domi nate t h e r e a r o f t h e yard.
o Paved side yard is wide enough to move equipment i n a n d
o u t of the rear yard T h e pavement's smooth surface is easy
to keep clean around the com post pile and the potting table.
G Graveled side yard a l lows passage between the front court­
yard a n d the rear yard. Informa l plantings of ferns a n d other
shade-loving plants, as well as vines that screen the bed­
room windows, thrive.
e Front paving of brick presents a gracious entrance walk a n d
extends i n t o the private courtya rd. This hard surface is safe
in a l l weather conditions, and the s m a l l pavers make the
walk and co urtyard appear bigger than they are.
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NOR"l\
Hiring a Pro
E N LIST£NG EXPERT H E L P
Before drawing up your final plan, you m a y wish t o con­
sult a landscape professional to assist with some element
of the design or its implementation. Although many
homeowners prefer to tackle the entire design and con­
struction process themselves, others rely on various pro­
fessionals to help with some of the steps along the way.

TH E R O L E OF A LAN DSCA P E A R C H I T EC T
Creating a landscape c a n call for t h e addition of patios,
decks, dining areas, play yards, shade structures, drainage
systems, and perhaps a pool or spa. Designing such struc­
tures and relating them to a coherent plan for your lot is
where a landscape architect comes in.
In addition to determining the most effective use of
paving, planting, and lighting, landscape architects are
licensed to design exterior structures, solve site problems
(such as ungainly slopes and poor drainage), and give OTH E R P R OFESS I ONALS
advice on siting a house and locating service lines, Landscape architects aren't t h e only professionals
entries, driveways, and parking areas. A landscape archi­ involved in the creation of fine gardens. The terms land­
tect is familiar with landscape and building materials and scape designer and garden designer apply to profession­
services and can suggest cost-saving options. als who may be self-taught or may have the same acade­
For individual services or for simple consultation, mic credentials as landscape architects, but may lack a
landscape architects usually work at an hou rly rate. More state license. The focus of their work is more likely to be
commonly, however, he or she provides a complete pack­ residential gardens, and if you aren't in need of a com­
age, from conceptual plans to construction drawings and plex deck construction or high retaining wall, they may
supervision of the installation. Fees depend upon the well serve your needs. Their fees may be lower than
complexity of the project, its length, and the degree of those of a landscape architect.
supervision required. A landscape designer usually works in conjunction
with a Hcensed landscape contractor, an important p rofes-

There are many ways to plan a landscape and

many ways to make a plan. Whether you use a
pencil or a mouse, the result
is the same.
sional, especially when major construction that's beyond
the limits of do-it-yourself projects is involved. A licensed
contractor is trained in methods of earthmoving, construc­ C O M PUTER-A I D E D D E S I G N
tion, and planting� You may work directly with a contrac­
tor, or your landscape a rchitect or designer may select and
supervise the contractor. In either case, the contractor will
submit a bid, either as a lump sum or as a figure based on
the estimated time and materials. The latter approach
allows more modifications during construction.
Finally, you can hire professionals who work primar­
ily with plants. Horticulturists are trained in the selection
and care of garden plants; many also have some design
training. IT you're looking merely for plants to complete
a design, you can work with a horticulturist. Arborists
are trained in the care of trees and other woody plants;
although not usually able to prepare a design for your
garden, they can guide you in the handling of existing
trees on your site, identifying healthy ones and those
needing pruning, shaping, or removal.

F I N D I NG TH E R I G HT PR OFESS I O NAL
Begin by identifying t h e professional services you need.
Be realistic in assessing the amount of work you want to
do yourself. Collect names from friends and neighbors­
even if it means knocking on doors when you spot a
good design. Call each of the designers or contractors
whose work you like in order to set up an interview
either at your home (they may charge an hourly fee for
this) or at their offices ( often freel. Inquire about the
nature of their work, their workload, and their fees.
Most important, ask for references-other residential
clients whose gardens may give you an idea of the range
and quality of the designer's work or the caliber of the
contractor's construction. Above all, you must feel a
rapport between yourself and the professional. You'll
be working closely on the design and installation of
your garden and need someone with whom you feel
comfortable.
Before the first visit, prepare in advance a list of
wishes, needs, and problems to deal with in the design,
making sure everyone in the household has had a chance
to participate in this step. Give serious consideration to
your b udget and time schedule. When a design is com­
plete, meet with the contractor and the designer to make
certain the contractor understands the design and is
comfortable working with the materials proposed.
To p rotect yourself from any surprises, be sure to
request a contract from any p rofessionals you hire. This
legal agreement should spell out the services to be pro­
vided, the schedule to be followed, and the fees to be
charged.
Of the dozen o r so landscape software programs currently on
the market, most are for Windows-compatible computers. The
formats vary. In some, you use the program's computer-aided
drafting tools to electronically draw your site. In others, you
import digital photos or scanned images of your site. Some
add modules that also allow you to design a deck, house
fa�ade, or irrigation system. A few offer tutorials for planning
a beautiful and functional landscape.
After you render your existing landscape into digital form,
you place various structures, plants, and accessories in the
landscape. Some programs can also manipulate elements,
such as slopes and topography, or provide a three-dimensional
view or walk-through of the design.
Many programs offer plant libraries of up to thousands of
perennials and annuals, trees and lawns. They allow you to
select plants for your garden based on specific search criteria,
such as flower color, bloom time, growing conditions, or
regional adaptability. Some even include templates of sample
designs and special effects, such as lighting, shade patterns,
growth simulation, or seasonal changes. As you design, some
will generate shopping lists of plants and materials that you
can print out.
Landscape programs can be fun to play with, but most
require patience to learn to use effectively; they also vary sig­
nificantly in complexity, sophistication, and price. Choose the
simplest one that meets your needs. For complex and expensive
designs, you are better off consulting a landscape professional
before finalizing your digital plans.

HIRING A PRO 171

Getting Ready to Build and Plant
MOVIN G FROM P L A N TO REALITY
Whether you've completed the design of your garden
yourself or have in hand a professionally rendered land­
scape plan, the next step is to translate the design to
your property. If you're having difficulty visualizing the
finished landscape or can't quite decide on the specifics
of certain elements, you may wish to mock up the design
on your property. Seeing an approximation of the layout
in the form of stakes, strings, and markihgs may help you
to determine the exact dimensions necessary for some
features, such as decks, terraces, and walks. Even if you
feel your paper plan is final, be prepared to make some
adjustments as you lay out the design on your site until
the arrangement of spaces and elements feels just right.
You can use a variety of methods to stake out your
design. Choose the one that works best for your situa­
tion. The choice will likely depend o n which features
predominate: straight lines or curving lines, geometric
forms, or free forms. Use materials that you have on
1 72 MAKING YOUR PLAN
h an d o r that can b e found a t Lowe's o r your grocery
store, such as bamboo or wooden stakes; kite string,
clothesline, or garden hose; and powdered gyps u m ,
l i m e , or even flour.
Live with your design layout for a few days before
making any final decisions or begi n n in g construction.
Walk through or sit i n your mock garden several times
to be sure that it p rovides you with the spaces you
need, circulation paths t h at are comfortable, and gar­
den areas that suit your interests and the time you h ave
to spend maintaining them. When you ' re ready to
begin construction, mock-up techniques will also come
i n h a ndy. Staking i s often used to m a rk an area of con­
crete to be poured, colored powder can show the true
boundaries of planting areas i n borders and beds, a n d
a h o s e snaked along a pathway can help g u i d e t h e
placement of pavers o r b ricks.
A FLEXIBLE BOUNDARY: Where your design is mostly curving l i nes and
free-form shapes, snake a garden hose to lay out the lines to your liking.
The hose can be curled at nearly any radius, especially if it is warm. As
an alternative, use PVC pipe that later can be used for your irrigation
work. For ease of use, the pipe can be softened i n the warm sun and
gently bent to mark your design.
STRINGS AND STAKES: For straight or gently curved lines, mark each
corner with a short stake and connect them with strings to outline paving
areas, deck construction, pathways, hedges, and planting beds; use
taller stakes to mark fences and walls. Test how the outlined areas
affect traffic circulation through the garden and whether they block any
important access points or views.
COLORED POWDER: limestone or gypsum, common soil amendments,
can be used to lay out free-form designs, such as the outlines of beds
and borders. Powdered chalk of various colors is useful if you have
overlapping el ements. Measure corner points or end points, and then
dribble a line of powder along the outlines. To make changes, simply
turn the powder into the soil and start again.
A MOCK GAROEN: Tall stakes can stand in for trees or elements like
fountains, sculpture, or posts for overhead construction. Large pieces
of cardboard on the ground can indicate paving or decks; cardboard can
also represent fences and walls. Note any shadows cast by your planned
vertical barriers. The neighbors may stare, but you will get a much
better sense of how your design is shaping up.
GETTING REAOY TO B U I LO ANO PLANT 1 73

Do-It-Yourself Landscaping
PROOF IT C A N BE D O N E
Visiting Eric a n d Mary Holdeman's home in P uyall u p ,
Washington, is l i k e stepping i n t o a forest meadow.
Towering fir, spruce, and cedar trees su rround the
landscape, m aking it private and shady. Across the
lower portion of the lawn, a perennial bed sends up
blooms througlloul the seasons. J ust outside the back
door, tidy vegetable beds h ug the house. Colorful
shrubs clamber u p a trellis near the front door.
None of this was in place when the Holdemans
moved into their house. " Th i s was m y first true
attempt at buildi ng a garden from scratch , " says Eric.
1 74 MAKING YOUR PLAN
Ferns, b u lbs, evergreen shrubs, and perennials combine in a long,
narrow border above the rock retaining wall in the Holdeman's
backyard. Tall trees shade the back of the yard.
" All topsoJ was gone, and we had lots o f rocks."
Before starting the p roject, h e drew a rough dia­
gram of the site, and then paid a n u rsery $ 1 5 0 for a
customized list of plants and combinations that
worked well in the N orthwest. "That [plan] gave m e a
starting point , " he says. " A little professional help goes
a long way. " Then the Holdemans set a few basic goals:
to build b rick-on-sand walkways, to plant trees and a
perennial bed, and to continue with square- foot gar­
dening (growing vegetables in small spaces ) .
BAR E D I RT TO S H ADY R ET R EAT
Eric, M ary, and their two children devored the first year
ro installing the garden's bones-the brick paths, rock
walls along the hill in the back, and areas of grassy lawn.
These projects consumed the family's first summer in
Puyallup. "For the kids, 'How I spenr my summer vaca­
tion' was more like 'How I helped Dad with the yard,'"
notes Eric. "This was our Disneyland. "
The next year, the Holdemans piamed perennials, a
vegetable garden near the house, and more trees. Then
came the refinements: a rockery, an arbor, stairs next to
SOUTH SlOE YARD, BEFORE: On the back of the house, porch steps lead
to an empty side yard. The proximity of the side yard to the kitchen calls
for easy access to vegetable beds. Some color is needed to brighten the
area beyond the porch.
BACKYARD, UNDERWAY: By the end of the first year, this is what the
walks and back flower border looked like. First, the owners installed a
brick-on-sand wal kway. The rock retaining wall at the base of the slope
required almost 10 tons of rocks. A lawn went in before the owners deter­
mined which plants would grow best in the garden. Only spring-blooming
bulbs were put in the ground at this point.
the rock waJl, low-voltage lighting, a garden bench, and a
sundial.
Even now, the garden continues ro evolve. "I spend a
lot of time just looking around the garden from different
angles," Eric says. " Figuring out what to tackle next is
borh a challenge and a joy. "
The initial work cost several thousand dol.lars, includ­
ing b ricks for [he walkways, srones for the rock wall, and
plants. The Holdemans' best advice ro those who want ro
begin from scratch? "Don't be afraid ro make mistakes. If
a plant is not working in one place, dig it out and move ir."
SOUTH SIDE YARD, AFTER: Seen from the front, the side yard is now
filled with well-mulched plants, Concrete rounds are a temporary,
meeting up with brick path to the back of the house.
BACKYARD, AFTER: Ferns, bulbs, evergreen shrubs, and perennials combine
in a long, narrow border above the rock retaining wall, where they offer a
succession of blooms throughout the year, Beyond the lawn, shrubs and
more perennials create a woodland garden beneath tall trees, Where the
side yard meets the backyard, a sundial, one of the later additions, rises
from surrounding leafy carpet bugle (Ajuga replans).
D O - i T-Y O U R S E L F LANDSCAPiNG 1 75
Taking Sides
RETHI N K U N U S E D S PA C E
While you can recapture square footage b y capitalizing
on the often neglected space in your side yard, these
long, narrow spaces are design chaUenges. In this garden,
space is a premium.
The landscape designer's goal for this garden in
Charleston, South Carolina, was to squeeze out every last
inch of usable space. On the sLU1ny east side of the house,
the side yard measures a slim 6 feet wide:except for an
alcove off the kitchen. There, the design takes advantage of
tlle morning light and situates a cozy alfresco breakfast
nook large enough for a table and a passageway.
The seating area is su rfaced with sturdy water-washed
flagstone. The remainder of the space is paved with brick
that also matches an existing brick wail. The two surfaces
are tied together by bluestone insets in the wail. To bring
FOUNTAIN RAISED PLANTER
1 78 LANDSCAPE P LA N S
foliage to eye level, raised brick planters are filled with
eye-catching plants, such as bright-blooming (and shade­
tolerant) impatiens. A Japanese maple ( Acer palmatum
'Arakawa') provides a graceful focal point with its finely
etched leaves. Large trees supply dense shade to the west
side of the house, where a serene shade garden flourishes
(illustrated at righ t ) .
French doors o p e n from t h e living room and face
symmetrical wrought-iron arches to create a m irror
image. Stone fountains spout water into limestone bowls,
creating the restful sound of moving water both indoors
and out, while a raised bed that edges the fence overflows
with lush plants, including sasanqua camellias, ferns,
yaupon, and Japanese spurge. Dark green creeping fig
softens the stucco wall.
FOUNTAIN
Plant List
TREES D. Bigleaf hydrangea GRO U N D COVERS, K. Impatiens
Hydrangea macrophylla PERENN IALS, AND Impatiens walleria na
A. Japanese maple
A N N U ALS
Acer palmatum 'Arakawa' E. Yaupon L. Japa nese spurge
lIex vomitoria H. Ja panese anemone Pachysandra terminalis
SHRUBS Anemone hybrida
B. Japanese boxwood VINES
I. Mother fern
Buxus microphylla japonica F. Creeping fig Asplenium bulbiferum
C. Sasanqua camellia Ficus pumila
J. Cranesbill
Camellia sasanqua G. Primrose jasmine [rodium reichardii
lasminum polyanthemum

TA K I N G SIDES 1 79
Cutting Loose
\'{'AN T COLOR? HERE'S LOTS O F IT
Imagine having freshly c u t flowers at y o u r fingertips all
season long. This cutting garden provides bouquets nearly
year- round, thanks to a creative selection of blooming
plants and shrubs.
This Richmond, Virginia, landscape design employs
traditional cut-nower favorites and supplies nontradi­
tional flora and foliage from colorful shrubs and trees.
The plantings were selected for both their in-garden
beauty and their use i n fresh and dried arrangements.
This garden is a seasonal color show. The flowers
grow in two large beds facing the house and are separat­
ed by a grape arbor. At the back of the beds, roses help
screen the raised vegetable beds from view. Beyond the
beds, fruit trees, pussy willow, and nowering bulbs color
the corners of the yard. Tightly trimmed feverfew defines
the front of the beds.
Spring favorites include forsythia, azalea, weige/a,
rhododendron, lilac, French pussy willow, and nowering
dogwood. Summertime features the blooms of flowering
perennials: hollyhock, roses, coneflower, and yarrow. I n
autumn, the colorful foliage a n d berries o f viburnum and
dogwood and the curly branches of corkscrew willow
supply materia] for inventive nora] displays.

GAZEBO

.. NORTH

1 80 LANDSCAPE PLANS
Plant List
TREES H. Shrub roses VINES sunflower (Heliopsis),
A. Flowering dogwood Rosa: 'Ballerina', 'Dolly M. 'Concord' grapes hollyhock, hosta, IriS, peony,
Comus florida 'First Lady" Parton', 'Chrysler Imperial', salVia, speedwell ( Verofilca) ,
'French Lace', ' Gold Badge', N. Honeysuckle and yarrow
B. Kousa dogwood 'Graham Thomas', 'La Reine Trumpet Honeysuckle
Comus kousa 'Milky Way" (Lofilcera sempefVIrens P. Annuals
VictOria', 'Queen Elizabeth' Bells-of-Ireland (Moluccella
'Magnifica'), Goldflame
C. Pink mountain silverbell I. Climbing roses laevis), cosmos, helIOtrope,
Honeysuckle (L. heckrottll)
Halesia monticola 'Rosea' 'CI. Cecile Brunner', larkspur, scented geranium,
'Golden Showers', 'America' D. Raspberries and zinnia
D. Himalayan pine
Pinus wallichiana J . French pussy willow PEREN N I ALS, A N N U ALS, P. Bulbs
E. Autumn Higan cherry SaliX caprea AND BULBS Daffodil, Dutch iris,
Prunus subhirtella P. Perennials tulip (spring); crocosmia,
K. Corkscrew willow
'Autumnalis' Bellflower ( Campanula), gladiolus, dahlia (summer)
Salix matsudana 'Tortuosa'
coreopsis, pinks ( Dianthus),
F. Sorrel tree l. Mixed shrub border purple coneflower
Oxydendrum arboreum Azalea, butterfly bush ( Echinacea), feverfew
( Buddleia), chaste tree ( Chrysanthemum
SHRUBS
( Vitex), forsythia, lilac, parthenium), foxglove,
G. Sweet mock orange rhododendron, spiraea,
Philadelphus coronarius
geum, gloriosa daisy
weigela, viburnum ( Rudbeckla hirta), false

CUTTING lOOSE 181

Wild About Wildlife
I , f'O THE M , A N D THEY W I L L C O M E
Food, shelter, 'lnd water-provide these in your garden, moist, damp areas and rocky places for basking. Birds
and you'Ll enjoy the natu ral addition of color and motion need shelter (plantings as well as housing) and flowers
as birds and buttedlies flock to your yard. This wildlife that supply nectar, seeds, and berries. Set up nesting
garden in Madison, Wisconsin, featu res a smorgasbord of boxes in spring, feeders in fall, and a dean water source
plant combinations that create a tasty and welcoming all year long. Water features appeal to all wildlife but
habitat. particularly entice frogs, toads, and winged beauties,
Butterflies prefer sunny, sheltered spots with plenty such as dragonflies.
of long-blooming, nectal'-rich flowel's. They also enjoy To welcome wildlife, this landscape design features
beds filled with colorful perennials and annuals; these
flowers are attractive in their own right. At the border's
edge grow the shortest plants, such as gayfeather
and giant hyssop. Taller species, such as musk
mallow, are used to attract b utterflies that
love to feed i n sunny spots between 1 1 in
the morning and 3 in the afternoon.
Like all nature gardeners, these
homeowners follow three major rules:
First, they don't use insecticides,
which may kill desirable butter­
flies, caterpillars, and birds
that eat insects and spi­
ders. Second, they foil
predators, such as cats,
by keeping feeders and
birdbaths u p high or
otherwise inaccessible.
Finally, because
the best wildlife habi­
tats are not the most
manicured, they aren't
too fussy about keeping
the garden neat. The less
you rake under bushes,
the better it is for birds.
Whenever possible, leave
small brush piles i n out-of-
the-way places for nesting
and overwintering
species of birds and
butterflies.

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1 82 LANDSCAPE PLANS
Plant Lists
For butterflies and moths G. Gayteather M. European mountain ash GROUND COVERS
Llatns splcata 'Kobold' Sorbus aucuparia
PERENNIALS S. Bearberry
H. Musk mallow 'Cardinal Royal' Arctostaphylos uva-ursi
A. Yarrow
Malva moschata 'Rosea' SHRUBS
Achillea taygetea T. Stonecrop
I. Garden phlox N. Dwarf saskatoon Sedum 'Matrona'
B. Butterfly weed
Phlox paniculata Amelanchier alnifolia
Asclepias tuberosa PERENNIALS AND ANNUALS
'Orange Perfection' 'Regent'
C. Italian aster U. Giant hyssop
Aster amellus 'Violet Queen' For birds O. Redtwig dogwood Agastache rupestris
Comus stolonifera 'Kelseyi'
D. Turtlehead 'Pink Panther'
TREES
Chelone obliqua
P. Five-leaf aralia V. Sunflower
J . Saskatoon Eleutherococcus
Amelanchier alnifolia Helianthus annuus
E. Blanket flower sieboldianus 'Valentine'
Gaillardia grandiflora K. Honey locust
'Mandarin' Q. Mapleleaf viburnum W. Sweet alyssum
Gleditsia tricanthos inermis
Viburnum acerifolium
'Imperial' Lobularia maritima
F. Dame's rocket
VINES
'Carpet of Snow'
Hesperis matronalis L. Red pine
Pinus resinosa R. Japanese honeysuckle X. Dwarf cattail
Lonicera japonica Typha minima

WILD ABOUT WILDLIFE 1 83

The Edible Landscape
rRE � H rOOD A N D B E AUTY
This landscape blends beauty with good taste-litel·al l y.
Every plant in this Kansas City, Missouri, garden is edible.
[ n just 40 by 60 feet, the homeowners grow more than
two dozen kinds of vegetables and herbs, as well as fruit
trees and grape vines. The grassy walkways give physical
and visual access to the entire garden. Overall, however,
the garden's design draws visitors to its center, whether
for a moment of reflection or to set up a barbecue and
create a garden meal on the spot.
The garden is productive for a long season; some
root vegetables and hardy greens are h a rvested in late
autumn, and early spinach and peas may be planted as
soon as the ground can be worked in spring. To save
space, the dwarf apple trees, which reach only 5 to 6
feet, are espaliered. Likewise, grapes and berries are
trained on trellises of 4-by-4 posts with horizontal
heavy-gauge wire (2 -by-2 crosspieces would also work ) .
Concentric semici rcles contain beds of perennial and
annual herbs in the center, with tomatoes, eggplant,
melons, and sunflowers toward the outside. TalJ crops,
such a s corn and pole beans, grow i n long beds at each
Plant List
corner, where they won't shade other plants. The design FRUITS A N D B E RRIE S G. Carrots
allows for new crops each year ( last year's salsa garden A. Apples 'Earlibird Nantes', 'Nevis'
could be replaced with this year's pesta garden ) , so the 'Cortland', 'Mcintosh' H. Corn
garden truly reflects the tastes of the gardeners.
B. Berries 'Earlivee'
A compost bin behind the apple trees converts most
'Darrow', 'Northland' blue­ I. Eggplant
garden and kitchen waste to rich mulch that's lavishly
berries; 'Heritage' raspberry; 'Black Bell', 'Dusky'
spread around the beds. To make the garden easy to main­
'Sweet Delight' strawberry
tain, the double-dug mounded beds are drip-watered. J . Greens
In-line emitters are used for the circles, while perforated C. Grapes 'Buttercrunch' and 'Skyline'
tubing is used for the straight beds. 'Marechal Foch' (red, mid­ lettuce; 'Bright Lights'
season), 'Seibel de Swiss chard
Chaunac' (blue, late season)
K. Herbs
VEGETABLES AND H E R B S Basil, dill, English thyme,
D. Bush beans French tarragon, Greek
'Goldkist' (yellow), oregano, parsley, purple
'Provider' (green) sage, sweet marjoram

E. Pole beans l. Muskmelon

'Kentucky R un ner' 'Earliqueen'

F. Beets M. Onions
'Chioggia', 'Golden Beet', 'Alisa Craig Exhibition',
'Red Ace' 'Norstar'

1 84 LANDSCAP E PLANS
N, Hot peppers U, Turnips
'Big Chile' 'Purple-Top White Globe',
'Seven Top'
0, Sweet peppers
'Ace' (green), 'LIpstick' V, Perennial and late
(red), 'Purple Bell' (purple) vegetables
'Victoria' rhubarb; 'Roulette'
p, Potatoes
cabbage;
'Kennebec', 'Yukon Gold'
'Snow Crown' cauliflower:
Q, Radishes 'Laura' leeks
'Cherriette', 'White Icicle'
FLOWERS
R, Summer squash
W, Sunflower
'Yellow Crookneck',
'Mammoth Russian' (tall),
'Raven' green zucchini
'Teddy Bear' (short)
S, Winter squash
'Black Forest' buttercup,
'Waltham Butternut'
T, Tomatoes
'Beefmaster', 'Brandywine',
'Sweet Million' (need
staking); 'Sungem' ...

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(bush type)

THE EDIBLE LANDSCAPE 1 85

Family Garden
PLAN N I N G FOR F U N
This landscape evolves with the family needs. Although
just 5 5 by 65 feet, this NashviLle, Tennessee, garden suits
a range of family interests, minimizes maintenance, and
allows for changes as the children grow.
Brick and neutraJ-toned washed concrete create an
entry area that leads to the lawn and pool, which is fenced
off from the rest of the yard for safety. The design allows
an open area-a swath of lawn that's large enough for
romping with kids or pets or for a SLUllmer barbecue with
guests. Rimmulg the lawn are evergreen rhododendrons
that offer cascades of blooms Ul late spring, while beneath
the shrubs grow leafy mOLUlds of hosta.
A long flowerbed cloakulg the pool's fence is planted
with sun-lovulg annuaJs and perennials. Starting in spring,
NORTH
1 86 LANDSCAPE PLANS
t h is bed glows with color for
nine months of the year. Framing
the design are trees that have
been chosen for their durability,
beauty, and potential for kids to
play on. The red oak is a favored
climbing tree and can serve one
day as a sturdy base for a tree
house. The weeping m ulberry
offers a perfect hide-and-seek
location, too.
The swillg set with slide and
cliJnbulg bars is close to the play­
house. When the children outgrow
this area, the playhouse can be
transformed into a storage shed for
garden tools or sports equipment.
After the kids have outgrown the
swing set, the area can be tilled
illto a vegetable garden or land­
scaped with low-maintenance
flowering shrubs.
Nearly indestructible rugosa
roses nestle against the right side of
the playhouse. D u ring late spring and
summer, these shrubs provide fragrant blooms. Bright
red rose hips that grow up to an inch across make these
plants equally attractive during the fall and winter.
For color where it's needed, the design illcorporates
containers filled with seasonal annuals or mini vegetables
and fruits (such as strawberries or pati-o-type tomatoes)
that are always ready t o yield a quick snack. For fruit
lovers in the family, three blueberry varieties (at least two
must be planted for good fruit production) form an
attractive low hedge behilld the swing set. These midsize
shrubs flower delicately i n spring, set delicious fruit in
summer, and blaze into orange and yellow glory in
autumn.
Plant List
TREES SHRUBS ANNUALS AND PERENNIALS M. Mixed annuals
J. Plantain lily
Marigold, geranium, petunia
A. Weeping mulberry E. Honeysuckle
Morus alba 'Pendula' Lonicera sempervirens Hosta va rietles N. Mixed perennials
K. Strawberry Coneflower ( Echinacea), iris,
B. White pine F. Rhododendron 'Blue Peter'
Fragaria 'Tri-Star' or
fountain grass
Pinus strobus G. Rhododendron (Pennisetum), phlox, Sedum
'Ever Red'
C. Sa rgent cherry 'Boule de Neige' telephium
Prunus sargentii L. Container plants
H. Rugosa rose
Petunia, portulaca,
D. Red oak Rosa rugosa
impatiens, 'Tumbler' tomato
Quercus rubra I. Highbush blueberry
Vaccinium corymbosum
'Jersey', 'Patriot', and
'Bluecrop'

FAM ilY GARDEN 1 87

Going Native
GETTIN G I N SYNC WITH N ATURE
Go native in your landscape and reap the many benefits
that hardy plants bring to any garden. Gardeners who
have weathered a season of drought are easy converts to
the water-saving benefits of native plants, as well as to
their beauty in home landscapes. In Seattle, Washington,
this garden uses predominantly local plants in settings
that take their cues from nature-with stunning results.
An angled walk and gentle berm give form, p rivacy,
and an element of surprise to the garden's shallow entry.
Approached from the driveway ( top of the plan) , the
garden reveals itself slowly. Its 3 5 -foot-deep, 60-foot­
wide area offers meandering paths, pockets packed with
native plants, and a shaded private patio. The berm's
natural look is created by a base of large, low boul ders
interplanted with the area's native multistemmed vine
maples. Other Northwest native plants cover the berm
to create privacy and a woodsy atmosphere.
1 88 LANDSCAPE PLANS
The garden was designed with the dual purpose of
viewing and cutting. Beneath the tall maples, midsize
understory shrubs provide both screening and color;
azaleas, lilacs, Oregon grape, and rhododendrons all
offer seasonal bloom and bouquet-quality flowers. Plants
offer a wide range of leaf textures-columbine, euphor­
bia, false spiraea, ferns, hostas, lamb's ears, sedge, and
Siberian iris all provide flowers, as well as textural leaves.
L ush sweet woodruff and redwood sorrel fil l the spaces
between.
As a contrast to the garden's soft foliage and
Northwest palette, the paths are hard-edged and neutral
in tone. Precast squares of buff-colored concrete are set
on a bed of compacted gravel and sand.
Plant List
TREES I. Oregon grape O. Sedge X. Redwood sorrel
A. Vine maple Mahonia aquifofium Carex Oxafls oregana
Acer circinalum 'Compacta' P. Common bleeding heart Y. Japanese spurge
B. Japanese maple J . Azaleas and rhododendrons Dicentra spectabilis Pachysandra terminalis
Acer palma tum Rhododendron
Q. Bishop's hat Z. Oriental poppy
C. Madrone K. Sweet box Epimedium Papaver orientale
Arbulus menziesii Sarcococca
R. Euphorbia AA. Solomon's seal
D. Flowering plum L. Common lilac Ferns
Polygonatum
S.
Prunus blireiana Syringa vulgaris
B B. Lamb's ears
T. Sweet woodruff
E. Japanese flowering cherry GROUND COVERS AND Slachys byzan/ina
Galium odoratum
Prunus serrulala 'Shirotae' PERENNIALS CC. Meadow rue
U. Hellebore
F. Douglas fir M. Columbine Thallclrum
Helfeborous foelidus
Pseudolsuga menziesii Aquilegia
V. Plaintain lily
N. False spiraea Hosla
SHRUBS
As/ilbe
G. Enkianthus W. Siberian iris hybrids
Iris sibirica
H. Lavender
Lavandula

GOING NATIVE 1 89
Taming a Slope
AN UNRULY H I L L S I D E BECOMES A GARDEN
S a n Francisco landscape designers k n o w a thing or two
about gardening on a slope. The design of this south­
west-facing hillside garden borrows heavily from the
natives of California's coastal chaparral. Evergreen
shrubs, such as ceanothus, flannel bush, and manzanita,
dominate this ocean-i nfluenced region of winter rains.
Scrub oak is the main deciduous tree here. Existing
large trees ( coast redwood, magnolia, and deodar cedar)
around the edges of the garden create a temperate
microclimate suitable for perennial shade dwellers, such
as Lemen rose.
The landscape incorporates a broad palette of
California natives, as well as ones from similar climates
i n Europe (bush germander, herbs, salvia, and santolina)
and New Zealand (Cordyline australis). Wide beds slope
down between low retaining walls covered with a
chaparral -like m i x o f plams that explode i n alternating
hues of red , yellow, and blue throughout s p ring and
summ er.
The garden's hardscape fits in as well as the n ative
plants d o . Stairs that lead from the h ouse t o the street
weave between the beds, allowing a wonderful mean­
dering walk through the garden ( as well as the more
practical reason o f b reaking u p the cli mb ) .
Semicircular viewing areas at t h e center o f t h e walls
are framed by tall A rctostaphlos manzanita ' Dr. H u r d ' .
San dstone paves the pathways , a n d a c o a t of stucco
softens the garden walls. This landscape design clearly
illustrates that n ative plants work j us t as well r ucked
imo broad beds with neatly edged walks and walls as
they do i n the wild land o f their original homes.

Plant List
TREES
A. Deodar cedar
Cedrus deodara

B. Saucer magnolia
Magnolia soulangiana

C. Coast redwood
Sequoia sempervirens

SHRUBS

D. Monterey manzanita
Arctostaphylos hooked
'Wayside'
E . Arctostaphylos 'Lutsko Pink'
F. Ma nza nita
Arctostaphylos manzanita
'Dr. Hurd'
G. Fort Bragg manzanita
Arctostaphylos nummulada

H. Bearberry
Arctostaphylos uva-ursi

1 90 lANDSCAPE PLANS
I. Ceanothus maritimus O. Evergreen huckleberry GROUND COVERS, VINES, W. Rosemary
VacclnfUm ovatum AND PERENNIALS Rosmarinus officinalis
J. Blue blossom
Ceanothus thyrsiflorus P. Shrub mix Q. Beschorneria yuccoides X. California blue sage
'Skylark' Saffron buckwheat 'San Diego Salvia clevelandii
R. Bougainvillea
(Eriogonum crocatum); Red' 'Winifred Gillman'
K. Dracaena
silver lupine (Lupinus Y. Bush germander
Cordyline australis S . Eriophyllum nevinii
albifrons collinus); scarlet Teucrium fruticans 'Azurea'
L. Pine Hill flannel bush bugler (Penstemon centran- T. Lenten rose
Fremontodendron thifolius); P heterophyllus Helleborus orientalis Z. Herb mix
decumbens purdyi; germander sage
Round leaf, golden and
U. Lavender common oregano; common
M. loyon (Salvia chamaedryoides);
Lavandula intermedia sage; lemon and common
lavender cotton (Santolina
Heteromeles arbutifolia 'Grosso' thyme
neapolitana 'Lemon Queen');
N. Coffee berry California fuchsia V. Lady banks' rose
Rhamnus californica (Zauschneria californica) Rosa banksiae
'Seaview'

TAMING A SLOPE 191

Inviting Nature In
L ET T H E DESERT BE ITS ELF
A selection of native plants allows t h i s garden t o
blend naturally intO t h e surrounding desert, y e t the
concentration of plants and the choreography of
their blooming times keep the garden attractive in
all seasons.
A courtyard nestled between two sections of
a 1 920s adobe house in Phoenix , Arizona, func­
tions as an outdoor living room d u ring the mild
winters. To accentuate this roomlike feeling, the
courtyard is paved in brown concrete, while the
paths are made of compacted decomposed
granite. Stone from the site was inlaid into the
concrete around a simple stOne bowl fountain
hand carved in Mexico. Blue palo verde and
Mexican bird of paradise create a floral ceiling.
Beyond the courtyard walls, plantings of
creosote bush, desert ironwood, and littleleaf
palo verde create pockets of shade. Their textural
branch patterns make a visual transition from the
oasis-like courtyard to the native desert. Below and
around the trees grow flowering perennials and
succulents, including Baja rueUia and sage in the
courtyard and desert marigold, globe mallow, and moss
verbena outside. The result is a lush garden with lots of
shade and year-round color that m i rrors the
natural Ol1oran Desert.

Plant List
TREES S H R U B S AND GROUND H_ Texas ranger P E R E N N IALS
A_ Saguaro COVERS Leucophy//um frutescens
K_ Smooth-edged agave
Carnegiea gigantea E_ Woolly butterfly bush 'Green Cloud'
Agave weberii
B_ Blue palo verde Budd/eia marrubifo/ia I. Chihuahuan sage L Desert marigold
Cercidium f/oridum F. Yellow Mexican bird of Leucopl7y//um /aevigatum
Bai/eya mu/tiradiata
C_ Litlleleaf palo verde paradise J. Prickly pear
Caesa/p(nia mexicana
M_ Mexican honeysuckle
Cercidium microphy//um Opuntia ficus-indica
Justicia spicigera
D_ Desert ironwood G_ Creosote bush
N. Baja ruellia
O/neya tesota Larrea tridentata
Rue//ia peninsu/aris

1 92 LANDSCAPE PLANS
O. Sage
Salvia coccinea and S. greggii

P. Globe mallow
Sphaeralcea ambigua

Q. Moss verbena
Verbena pulchel/a gracilior

NORTH
...

INVITING NATURE IN 1 93
Up on the Roof
GH[EN I N G THE CITY, O N E ROOFTOP A T A TIME
For plant lovers with just a sma.lJ area to call a garden,
container plants are the remedy. In a pot, you can grow
nearly everything-from smail trees to hanging vines­
with success. The added flexibility of containers is that
you can change rJle look of the garden just by rearranging
the pots.
This New York City rooftop retreat can be adapted
for a balcony, deck, or patio. Seating can be either built­
in banquettes or movable outdoor chairs. The choice of
containers establishes the garden's theme. Choose ones
in any style, from traditional terra-cotta or concrete urns
to galvanized washtubs, upended drainpipes, or wooden
barrels.
Increase privacy (and add to your growing area) by
adding lath trellises for vining plants. Here, the over­
head lath structure provides something most rooftop
gardens don 't have: shade. This cool spot is the perfect
environment for shade-loving ferns and flowers, such as
coral bells and impatiens. The vertical green
accents of ornamental grasses and small ever­
greens offer balance to the garden and contrast
pleasantly with trailing nasturtiums and flower­
filled hanging baskets. Most of the perennials
specified here, including the water lily, are
winter-hardy in most of the Northeast. Keep
in mind, however, that container plants are
more vulnerable to the elements than the
same plants would be when grown in the
ground.
Container gardens need wind and
frost protection, as well as extra water­
ing. Make sure you move frost-sensi-
tive plants, such as the potted palms
and the smallest container plants,
indoors from late fall u ntil weather
warms in spring.

Plant list
TREES G R O U N D COVERS,
A. White spruce PERENN IALS, FERNS , AND
Picea glauca 'Conica' GRAS S ES
E. Lavender
SHRUBS
La vandula angustifolia
B. Butterfly bush
F. Silvergrass
Buddleia davidii
Miscanthus sinensis
'Nanho Blue'
'Morni n g Light'
C. Dwarf hinoki cypress
G. Silver feather grass
Chamaecyparis obtusa
Miscanthus sinensis
'Nana'
'Silberfeder'
D. Hydrangea serrata 'Diadem'
H. Lam b's ears
Stachys lanata

1 94 LANDSCAPE PLANS
I. Fountain grass VINES P. Mixed annuals WATER PLANTS
Pennisetum setaceum Geranium (Pe/argonium),
l. Trumpet honeysuckle U. Hardy water lily
'Rubrum' Lonicera sempervirens mealycup sage (Sa/via) Nymphaea 'Helvola'
J. Potted ferns M. Ornamental grapevine Q. Mixed shade annuals V. Pickerel weed
Spinulose wood fern Vitis vinifera 'Purpurea' I mpatiens, coleus, begonia Pontederia cordata
(Dryopteris carthusiana);
R. Potted annuals
lady fern (Athyrium A N N UA L flOWERS
Petunia or verbena
filix-femina) N. Nasturtium
Tropaeolum majus
S. Potted tuberous begonias
K. Mixed shade perennials
Japanese painted fern O. Hanging baskets FROST· TENDER SPECI M E N S
(Athyrium niponicum Geranium (Pelargonium); T. Potted palm
'Pictum'); coral bells Scaevola Howea fosteriana
( Heuchera 'Palace Purple')

U P ON THE ROOF 1 95
Made in the Shade
EXPLORI N G THE P O S S IB L I T I E S OF W O O D L A N D L A N D S C A P I N G
Take a walk in the woods-in your own backyard-but
don't think that you must sacrifice bright, blooming
flowers. This Pittsburg, Pennsylvania, landscape takes
advantage of the grandeur of both native and imported
trees. When paired with carefully selected perennial
species, the garden is also a colorful spot.
Large deciduous t rees-oak, maple, tulip, and a
·
Kentucky coffee tree that's hardy well n orth of
Kentucky-rim the garden and provide shade. Beneath
these majestic t rees lies a connected group of beds that
are filled with spring-blooming shrubs. Many of these,
including rhododendrons, laurels, daphne, and mahonias,
are evergreen and offer a base of green color i n the
garden all year.
For color, the viburnum bears leaves that brighten to
orange i n the autumn and produces bright-scarlet berries
that attract birds. The leucothoe's pink-green-white
foliage looks attractive in both winter and summer.
Low-growing ground covers and perennials spread a
carpet beneath the shrubs. Pink-and-white-flowering
epimedium and white-flowering wintergreen (which
offers red berries later i n the season) both spread
understory color and texture throughout this woodland
wonderland .
Flowering perennials create a changing color parade
throughout the seasons, starting i n the spring with pink­
blooming bieeding heart and blue-hued iris. Coral bells,
white snakeroot, and hostas, which bloom later in the
summer, were chosen as m uch for their attractive foliage
as for their flowers.
Delicate fern foliage creates a striking j uxtaposition
against the large, sculptural leaves of oakleaf hydrangea.
Shin y, stiff hellebores hold their leaves erect beside the
arching, green-gray fronds of bleeding heart to the left
of the paving, and slender iris leaves adjoin broad, pleated
hostas. Bold, flowing swaths of plants accent the placement
of the trees and create quiet vistas of bloom from many
different vantage points i n the garden.
Plant List
TREES I. Leucothoe walteri Q. Bleeding heart Y. Lenten rose
A. Paperbark maple 'Girard's Rainbow' Dicentra spectabllis Hel/eborus orientalis
Acer griseum J. Oregon gra pe R. Bleeding heart Z. Coral bells
B. Kentucky coffee tree Mahonia aqulfolium Dicentra eximia Heuchera 'Persian Carpet'
Gymnocladus dioica 'Compacta' 'Adrian Bloom'
AA. Hosta 'Frances Willia ms'
C. Tulip tree K. Deciduous azalea S. Autumn fern
BB . SI. Johnswort
Liriodendron tulipifera Rhododendron Dryopteris erythrosora
Hypericum calycinurn
Knap-Hill-Exbury Hybrid T. Bishop's hat
D. White oak CC. Crested iris
Quercus alba l. Rhododendron yakushi- Epirnedium grandiflorurn
Iris cristata
manum 'Yaku Princess' 'Rose Queen'
E. Red oak DO . Dalmatian iris
Quercus rubra M. Rhododendron 'Scintillation' U. Epimedium youngianum
Iris pal/ida
'Niveum'
N. Tea viburnum EE. Japanese roof iris
SHRUBS
Viburnum setigerum V. White snakeroot
Iris tectorum
F. Daphne burkwoodii Eupatorium rugosum
'Carol Mackie' GROUND COVERS A N D 'Chocolate' FF. Virginia bluebell
PERENN IALS Mertensia pllimonarioides
G. Oakleaf hydrangea W. Wintergreen
Hydrangea quercifolia O. Maidenhair fern
Gaultheria procumbens
Adiantum pedatum
H. Mountain laurel X. Bear's foot hellebore
Kalmia latifolia P. Japanese pa inted fern
Hel/eborus foetidus
Athyriurn niponicum
'Pictum'

MADE IN THE SHADE 1 97

Always in Season
C H A N G E A N D S URPRI S E THROU G H T H E Y E A R
You can enjoy the beauty of a garden all year long-even
in climates with freezing winters. A well-chosen group of
plants keeps the color show going from early spring
through winter.
The Chicago, Illinois, design featured here starts with
good structure. All year, two elegant evergreen pine trees
provide shape and restful color. In late winter, the brave
blooms of spring-blooming bulbs and early perennials start
to show up in the garden. Hellebores, winter aconite, and
crocus bloom, even through snow, and scented yellow
Rowers appear on bare witch hazel branches.
I n spring, crab apple boughs swell with clouds of
bloom, catkins appear on the birch, and late-season
flowering bulbs spread color across the garden.
Rhododendrons burst into bloom i n late spring, followed
by perennials that con t i n ue to flower throughout the
summer. The hydrangea dresses the seasons i n color as
its pure white pani cles mature to pinkish purple.
Come autumn, tall clumps o f blue fescue brighten
to gold, and red fruits cover the crab apple, hollies, and
viburnu m . Yellow birch leaves shower down, revealing
peeling bark o n the tree's trunk. The coming o f winter
exposes branches, berries, boulders,
and statuary.
The first snow frosts the landscape into soft
shapes. Snow and ice outline the evergreens
and contrast with berries and bark.
Year-round, the garden is easy to
maintain. Evergreen ground covers
minimize weeding throughout the
garden, and the central lawn is
large enough for a modest garden
party but compact enough to
mow quickly.

Plant List
TREES

A. River birch
Betula nigra 'Heritage'
-c- -." ..-
-
B. Crab apple 1 .. ..

Malus 'Donald Wyman'

C. Tanyosho pine F. Oakleaf hydrangea
Pinus densiflora Hydrangea quercifolia
'Umbraculifera' 'Snow Queen'
D. Japanese black pine G. Evergreen holly
Pinus thunbergii Ilex meserveae (male and
'Thunderhead' female plants)

S HR U B S H. Winterberry
/lex verticil/ata 'Red Sprite'
E. Witch hazel
Hamamelis intermedia I. Rhododendron
'Arnold Promise' yakushimanum 'Ken Janek'
J. Rhododendron
yakushimanum 'Sambi'

1 98 LANDSCAPE P LANS
K. Rhododendron O. Christmas rose and S. Japanese spurge V. Mixed perennials and bulbs
yakushimanum Lenten rose Pachysandra term i nalis Coreopsis 'Moonbeam'; Aster
'Yaku Princess' Heffeborus niger and frikartii 'Monch'; Scabiosa
T. Sedum
H. orientafis columbaria 'Butterfly Blue';
l. Cranberry bush Sedum telephium
Colchicum speciosum;
Viburnum trifobum P. Coral bells 'Autumn Joy'
crocus, spring varieties;
'Compactum' Heuchera 'Palace Purple'
U. Indian grass Lilium varieties; Narcissus
GROUND COVERS AND Q. Hosta 'Sum and Substance' Sorghastrum nutans 'Tete-a-Tete', 'Suzy',
PERENNIALS 'Sioux Blue' 'Barrett Browning';
R. Japanese blood grass
Imperata cylindrica 'Red TUlipa 'Apricot Beauty'
M. Blue fescue
Festuca glauca 'Elijah Blue' Baron'
N. Bear's foot hellebore
Heffeborus foetidus

ALWAYS IN SEASON 1 99
The Power of Scent
I T ' S 1\ PAfH\X'AY [0 T H E PAST
The sense of smell is so powerful that it can make you
instantaneously recall memories of the past. A single
whiff of a flower in bloom can transport you back in
time to the place you first encountered the fragrance.
I t 's little wonder that fragrant plants have always
ranked high among gardeners' favorites.
Where do scented plants have the most power in
the garden� The obvious places are where you ' re most
likely be o n a regular basis. You can wake up to the
perfume of a gardenia growing outside your bedroom
win dow or spend a moment i n noontime repose
beneath a blooming Southern magnolia. And what
better end to a busy day than to drift
back and forth on an old porch swing

. ----

, , .

200 LANDSCAPE PLANS

and enjoy the sweet evening scents of four o'c1ocks?
So that you can enjoy each flower's fragrance in its
own time, plan for a succession of bloom ( and scent ) .
This Birmingham, Alabama, landscape plan includes a
range of fragrant favorites. Others to consider are
Carolina jessamine, confederate jasmine, Phlox paniw­
lata, lavender, butterfly bush, peony, sweet Will iam,
and Oriental lily.
Don't make the mistake of thinking that only flow­
ers provide a luscious scent. Many herbs, including
rosema ry, thyme, lemon balm, and scented geraniums,
have aromatic !e,lves that you'll notice as you lightly
brush by. A favorite trick is planting mother-of-thyme
( Thymlls praecox arcticus) between stepping-stones so
that every time you tread on their tiny leaves, their
aroma envelops you.

Plant List
TREES VINES M. Four o'clock
A. Southern magnolia G. Wood bine honeysuckle Mirabiiis jaiapa
Magnoiia grandiflora Lonicera periciymenum N. Rose-scented geranium
'SI. Mary' 'Graham Thomas' Peiargonium gra veoiens

SHRUBS GROUND COVERS AND O. Peppermint-scented

PERENN IALS geranium
B. Winter daphne
Peiargonium tomenlosum
Daphne odora 'Marginata' H. Grand crinum
Crinum asiaticum
C. Gardenia
Gardenia jasminoides I. Common ginger lily
'Golden Magic' Hedychium coronarium

D. Banana shrub J. Golden butterfly ginger

.'
Micheiia figo Hedychium flavum

E. Rose K. Lemon daylily

Rosa 'Sun Flare' Hemerocaiiis iiiioasphodeius

F. Korean spice viburnum l. Fragrant plantain lily

Viburnum cariesii Hosla pianlaginea

THE POWER OF SCENT 201

A Tropical Oasis
( 0 0 1 P L ANTS P O R HOT TIMES
Compared t o gardeners in most o f the country, those in
the coastal and tropical Southeast are really lucky. They
can grow plants that revel in heat and humidity and that
bloom nearly aU year. This Miami garden shows a luxuri­
ant backyard in south Florida awash in tropical and
semitropical plants. For your landscape, select two or
three to fill out a border or act as focal points.
Tropical plants i nclude flowering banana, cabbage
palm, Chinese hibiscus, canna, lily-of-the- N ile, and
creeping fig. Gardeners love the lush , bold foliage that
tropicals offer-either as a n accent o r combined with
the leaves of other plants to give any garden an exotic
202 LANDSCAPE PLANS
look . I n fact, combining different shapes and sizes of
leaves can be dramatic and every bit as rewarding as
combining d i fferent kinds of flowers. Try j uxtaposing
plants that have large, coarse leaves with those having
small, delicate foliage. O r p ai r plants with b u rgundy or
dark green foliage to complement those with light
green or variegated leaves.
Gardeners in the South can often p reserve tropicals
just by mulching them heavily in autumn. Northern
tropical lovers can grow the plants in containers that
move indoors for the winter ( after all, many o f these
plants are used in northern climates only as houseplants) .
Plant list
TREES SHRUBS VINES S. Impatiens, New Guinea
A. Pindo palm G. Mexican heather M. Common allamanda hybrids
Butia capitata Cupilea hyssopifolla Allamanda cathartica T. Dwarf mondo grass
B. Madagascar dragon tree H. Sago palm N. Creeping fig Ophiopogon japonicus
Dracaena marginata Cycas revoluta Ficus pumila 'Gyoku Ryu'
'Tricolor' U. Golden bamboo
I. Shower of gold PERENNIALS AND ANNUALS
C. Flowering banana Galphimia glauca Phyllostachys aurea
O. Lily-of-the-Nile
Musa coccinea V Coleus
J. Chinese hibiscus Agapanthus 'Peter Pan'
D. Silver date palm Hibiscus rosa-sinensis Solenostemon
P. Shell ginger scutellarioides
Phoenix sylvestris 'American Beauty'
Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata' 'Alabama Sun'
E. Cabbage palm K. Yellow shrimp plant
Q. Canna 'Red King Humber!' W. Peace lily
Sabal palmetto Pachystachys Jutea
R. Parrot heliconia Spathyiphyllum 'lasson'
F. Golden trumpet tree l. Shrubby yew pine
Heliconia psittacorum X. Persian shield
Tabebuia chrysotricha Podocarpus macrophyllus
'Suriname Sassy' Strobilanthes dyeria nus
maki

A TROPICAL OAS I S 203

IN THIS CHAPTER
Getting Started
\\' O RKI N G WITH C O D E S , CO NTRACTORS , A N D RENTA L YARDS
Before your plans a re too fal" along, consult the local B u i l d i n g permits Before you pur shovel to soi l , get the
building department for any legal restrictions. These needed permits. Have the building department check the
include applying for a building permit and complying plans before construction begins to ensure that you don't
with building code requirements. Also be aware of zon­ get off to a substandard start. Negligence may come
ing or-dinances, which may govern r-egulations, such as back to haunt you. Officials can fine you and require
whether a deck can be built and where it can be located. that you bring an illegally built structure u p to standard
or dismantle it enti rely.

B u i l d i ng codes Code requirements vary from region

to regio n . They set minimum safety standards for materi­
B U I LD I N G A G O O D
als and construction techniques: depth of footings, sizes
W O R K I N G R E LATI O N S H I P of beams, and proper fastening methods, for example.
Code requirements help ensure that any structures you
• Search for a contractor by build will be well m a de and safe for your family and any
collecting recommenda­ future owners of the property.
tions from friends and
neighbors who are Z o n i n g o r d i na nces These municipal regulations restrict
satisfied clients. the height of residential buildings, limit the proportion of
• Before you meet with one, the lot a building and other structures may cover, specify
write down all your how close to the property lines you can build, and-in
Questions. some areas-stipulate architectural design standards.
• If a magazine or brochure

photograph captures what Va riances I f the zoning department rejects the plans,
you're aiming for, bring it you can apply for a variance a t the city or county
to the meeting. planning department. It's your task to prove to the
• Have some idea of your department that the zoning requirements would create
budget, both for consulta­ "undue hardship , " and that the structure you want to
tions and for the entire build will not negatively affect neighbors or the com­
project. Keep in mind m u nity. If you plead your case convincingly, you may
that professional help be allowed t o build.
need not be costly, espe­
cially if you hire on a D e e d s Your property deed can also restrict the project's
short-term basis. design, construction, or location. Review the deed care­
• Be as precise as you can fully, checking for easements, architectural restrictions,
about your expectations. and other limitations.
• Look for evidence that the

contractor listens care­ W O R K I N G S A F E LY

fully to your ideas and
respects your needs.
• Ask for references so that you can see some of the
person's work and talk to former clients.
Although the garden is not generally a hazardous place,
any time you pick up a tool, climb a ladder, or start
moving heavy materials, you can injure yourself-
or someone else. If you're planning to carry out a n y of
the l a ndscape projects shown in this book follow the
guidelines given here.

206 LAYING THE F O U N O AT I O N


For protection
from flying parti­
cles of dust or rock
when cutting stone
or brick, wear safety
goggles or a full face
mask. Look for comfortably
fitting, fog-free types made
of scratch-resistant shat­
terproof plastic. Dry
portland cement i s irri­
tating to the eyes, nose,
and mouth; wear a dust
mask when mixing
concrete.
Wet concrete and mortar are caustic to the skin, so
wear heavy rubber gloves and tuck sleeves into them. If
you must walk in the concrete to finish it off, wear rub­
ber boots.
When working with lumber, protect your hands
from wood splinters with all-leather or leather-rein­
forced work gloves. If you're sanding wood, wear a dis·
posable painter's mask. For work with solvents, finishes,
or adhesives, wear disposable rubber or plastic gloves. If
you're using a rental equipment, be sure to ask the staff
about safe operation first and read printed instructions
carefully.
R E N TA L YA R D SAVVY
Renting gives you the chance to use professional-grade
tools and tackle projects you couldn't otherwise. Rental
companies offer a wide range of specialized tools, such
as tractors, trenchers, and rotary tillers.
To make sure the process goes smoothly, think
through the project carefully. Assemble everything you
need to complete the job. If you have to stop work and
run out for supplies, you risk either not finishing or not
getting the tool back on time, which will cost you a late
charge.
Resist the impulse to rent more elaborate tools than
you can safely handle. Rental yards will review safe use
and run you through operation, but they will assume
you're capable. They won't prevent you from renting any
kind of equipment.
MAKI N G A C ONTRACT
Make sure you sign a written contract with any landscape
professional. You'll be better protected if the contract is
specific about what you expect, so make sure your contract
includes the following:
THE PROJECT ANO PART I C I PANTS Include a general
description of the project, its address, and the names and
addresses of both you and the professional.
CONSTRUCTION MATERIALS Identify the grade of materi­
als, the quality of fasteners, and, in the case of lumber, the
species and grade. Indicate brand and model number of any
accessories, such as lighting systems. Avoid the clause "or
equal" that will allow for substitution of other materials.
WORK TO BE PERFORM EO Specify all major jobs from
preliminary grading to finishing.
TIME SCHEDULE The contract should include both start and
completion dates.
METHOD OF PAYMENT Payments are usually made i n
installments as phases o f work are completed. You want to
insist on a fixed price bid, although some contractors want a
fee based on a percentage of labor and materials costs. Final
payment is withheld until the job receives its final inspection
and all l iens are cleared.
WAIVER OF LIENS If subcontractors aren't paid for materi­
als or services delivered to your home, in some states they can
place a mechanic's lien on your property, tying up the title.
Protect yourself with a waiver of liens, signed by the general
contractor, subcontractors, and major materials suppliers.
EXHIBIT "A" It's a good idea to attach a copy of the
property's site plan, drawn to scale.
If you don't have a truck or a trailer hitch on your
car, you may need large tools delivered. Most rental
yards will deliver and pick up, for a fee-$5 0 is typical.
Rental prices vary widely, but expect to pay about
$65 a day for a large, rear-tined garden tiller and about
$200 for a trencher or small backhoe/loader.
Be prepared to pay a cash or credit card deposit
plus the tool-rental fee. Most rental companies require
two forms of identification, such as a driver's license
and a credit card. Most won't charge you for typical
wear but will charge i f they see obvious signs of abuse
when you return the equipment. If you expect to give
the tool extra-hard use, ask about damage coverage,
usually covered by a 1 0 percent surcharge.
GETTING STARTED 207
Grading
R E S H A P I NG THE LAND
Moving soil from one place to
another so it's at the proper height
and slope ensures adequate
drainage. More specifically, grad­
ing adds contours to flat landscapes
and provides the necessary foun­
dation for walks and patios.
Start with a plan, being
sure to take into account
drainage and any paving you're
adding. If your house isn't connected to a
sewer, locate the septic tank and drainage field.

T H R E E STAG ES OF G R A D I N G
The work o f grading progresses hand in hand with
the other aspects of installing your landscape. The first
step, rough grading, brings the areas of your yard to the
desired finished level. Then, after the completion of
underground systems and any construction projects,
you'll need to reestablish the rough grade. The final
stage is the finish grading.
Adequate surface drainage requires a minimum slope of 1 inch per
8 feet of paved surface, and 3 inches per 10 feet of unpaved ground.
Rough gra d i ng The goal i s to remove or add enough
soil in each area of your lot to b ring the soil surface
to the height and slope you want. Rough grading can
include reshaping the soil and making mounds and
berm s , as well as digging foundations for patios and
walks. Be advised though, that i t i s always p referred
to install paving of any kind on firm, undisturbed
soil. Fill soil, n o matter how carefully tamped, will
settle.
Start b y eliminating high and low spots. Save the
soil you remove in two separate piJes-one for topsoil
( the top 2 to 6 i n ches) and one for subsoil-so that it
can be reused. Then dig foundations for patios, walls,
and other paving. You may be able to use the soil from
these excavations as filJ in other areas. After the rough
grading is complete, tamp the soil. Also tamp the
soil each time you add a layer of fill soil to a deeply
filled area.

Per i o d i c a l l y reesta b l i s h the rough grade You'll

A layer of crushed gravel is used to level this site in preparation
for paving. The front-end loader comes i n handy for excavation and
hauling soil, stone, and gravel.
probably need to do this several times while you're
installing your landscape. For example, you may have
to fill trenches dug for underground systems or low
spots caused b y the movement of heavy equipment.
Mound the soil over the trench a n d tamp it firmly until
it's at the same level as the soil aroun d it.

208 LAYING THE F O U N D AT I O N

F i n i s h gra d i n g This is the last step after construction
work is done, underground systems are installed, and the
rough grade has been reestablished. The goal is to make CONTO U R I N G WITH
the surface smooth enough for planting. M O U N D S AN D B ER MS
M A K I N G TH E G R A D E These two landscape features let you make changes in the
You need a reliable method t o ensure that you get the grade for privacy, wind and noise control, or the sake of -
rough grade you need. Estimate the grade visuaLly or, for bea uty. The chief difference between them is their size.
greater accuracy, use a carpenter's level. Mounds are small-perhaps just a few feet long and a foot
or so tall. Berms can be several yards long and quite tall.
Visua l l y esti mating Make sure the grade slopes away An amateur can construct a mound, but building a berm
from structures and toward ,lreas where water can generally requ i res heavy machinery and professional skill.
quickly drain away. Also check for high and low spots on Both mounds and
the lawn and other areas that need an even surface. berms require lots of
soil; it's most eco­
U s i n g a carpenter's leve l Set the level on an 8·foot­ nomical to use the
long 2 -by-4 placed on the ground. With a tape measure, soil from an excava­
determine how far you have to raise one end of the tion in your own yard.
board to center the bubble in the level. That will give a To build a
rough idea of how much the ground slopes. mound, take care
that it won't interfere
G R A D I N G A S LO P E with good drainage
I f your property slopes s o steeply that without skillful channels and that
grading and terracing it would remain unstable and vir­ it's back far enough
tually useless, consider constructing one or a series of from a patio, deck, or
walk so water run­
ning off the mound
Berms deflect wind and noise , and won't flow onto the
provide inleresting contours. paving. Remove any
sod covering the soil
where you want the mound. Break the soil's surface crust
before you bring in any new soil. Then spread a layer of soil

� FILL for the mound and, using a shovel or tiller, mix it with the

- - y- -
- - ..:. I underlying soil to ensure good drainage. Continue this
CUT
process as you shape the mound.
Tamp the soil lightly and smooth the sides with the back
of a rake. To prevent erosion, make sure the sides aren't too
steep. Plant as you would any other hillside.

the stability of the soil. Otherwise the hill can be held

Grading slopes requires cutting and lilling. The best solution depends
upon the slope's grade, how much space is available, and the
planned use.
retaining walls. The safest way to build the wall is to
place it at the bottom of a gentle slope, if space permits,
and fill behind it with soil. That way, you won't disturb
either with a single high wall or with a series of low
retaining walls that form terraces. All three options are
shown at left.
Whenever terracing or a high retaining wall are
needed, contact a landscape architect or soils engineer
who can foresee problems, who is familiar with legal
requirements, and who can calculate the strength
needed. In short, rely on a pro.

GRAOIN G 209
Drainage Basics
M A N AG I N G EXC E S S WATE R
You need t o p l a n for ways to channel water draining a roof) a n d hori­
away from your house foun d ation, patio, zontal pipes (those serv­
d riveway, and low-lying garden areas. Drainage ing a lawn or patio)
is obviously im portant in high rainfall areas. depend o n three main
It's also important in arid regions, where you want factors: the square
to retain as much water as possible to recharge footage o f the area to be
ground water. drained, the pitch of the drainage
Complex grading and drainage schemes, espe­ pipe (you need about Y. inch per foot ) , a n d
cially for slopes, are jobs for a professional . But the a m o u n t of rainfall expected (couched
with a shovel and some basic pl umbing in terms of the worst I -hour storm in a
skills, you can likely han dJe some I OO-year peri od ) . Plumbing codes
smaller tasks; see the following sec­ may include charts specifying
tions. A hypothetical drainage these values. Sound confusing?
plan for a front yard is shown Consult a building inspector.
at far right. Couplings, elbows, Ys,
and Ts to match each pipe type
C H OO S I N G YO U R are available to link sections.
MATE R I A LS There is also a wide selection
Solid drain pipe directs o f both plastic and concrete
water toward a dry well, drains, catch basins, matching
storm drain , street, or other low grates, drainage channels, and
spot where the water can be safely dis­ downspout fittings available.
charged. These pipes may be rigid plastic
(typically PVC) or ribbed, flexible plastic. LAY I N G P I P E
Perforated drainpipe absorbs rising runoff from Place the pipe in a 1 2 -inch-deep trench
the areas around it and either channels water to a ( d eeper in frost areas) , slanting it downward at
central point or gradually releases the excess as it trav­ least I inch for every 8 feet. Put coarse gravel or
els through the pipe. small stones about 2 inches deep i n the trench a n d lay
What size pipe d o you need? Strictly speaking, the the pipe o n top. I f you use perforated pipe, lay i t with
minimum sizes for both vertical pipes (like those for the holes downward so that soil won't seep in a n d clog
it. Line the trench with landscape fabric, a n d then refill
the trench wi th gravel. If you like, cover the gravel with
soil or river rocks.
B EF O R E Y O U D I G Simply laying a long perforated pipe i n a trench will
solve many drainage problems. To handle heavy r u noff,
As you plan, make sure runoff will find its way to a sewer or or if there isn't room for a long pope, have the pipe end
storm drain and not to your neighbor's property. Before you in a dry well or a catch basin (opposite ) .
dig, check with the utility company and have all under­
ground services marked. If your house isn't connected to a
sewer, locate the septic tank and drainage field. Contact
your building department for any permits you' may need.

210 LAYING THE F O U N D AT I O N

 A S a m p l e D ra i n a ge S c h e m e
A CATCH BASIN drains water from a low-lying
a rea. Dig a hole at the lowest point and set
a ready-made plastic or concrete box into it
(many sizes a re available). Set a match ing
grate on top and dig a sloping trench for a
drainpipe to direct water from the basin
toward a storm drain (if permitted) or to a
dry well.
A GRAVEl-FILLED T R E N C H is used where runoff
is light to catch and deflect water running off
hillsides, roofs, or paved surfaces (such as a
patio or around a swimming pool). Dig the
trench I foot deep and 6 to 12 inches wide,
depending on the volume of water the trench
will have to hand le. Fill the trench with gravel
or small stones, not with soil.
A DRY WELL provides a final destination
for runoff in a low area with no drainage
alternative. Accumulated water gradually
seeps into the ground. To build a dry well, dig
a 2- to 4-foot-wide hole at least 3 feet deep.
Cover the hole's sides with landscape fabric.
Dig trenches for the pipes that will carry the
water into the dry well. Fill the well with
coarse gravel or small rocks, then cover it
with impervious material, such as heavy roof­
ing fell. Conceal it with a thin layer of soil.
DRAINAGE BASICS 21 1

Sprinkler and Drip Systems
ENOUGH WATE R AT T H E RIG HT TIME
Designing a successful sprinkler or drip system requires
some app reciation of hydraulics, soil types, plant growth
and needs, and irrigation equipment. But don't be
discouraged-planning and installing sprinklers is well
within the ability of most home plumbers.
P LA N N I N G YO U R SYST E M
Planning o n paper helps you think the system through,
guides you in ordering materials, and serves as a perma­
nent record of where pipes are buried. Begin by gather­
ing inform ation.
212 LAYI NG THE FOUNDATION
This cutaway of an underground sprinkler hookup shows the horizontal
sprinkler line and the T-fitting that connects it to the sprinkler.
You'll need a scale drawing showing all o f the parts
of your property to which your irrigation system will
extend, including where the pipe will be b u ried a n d
where t h e timer will be located. S u c h a m a p ( op p osite
page, top) typically includes at least a part of the house
and garage, the driveway, walkways, fences, lawn,
p l a nting beds, trees and other large i n dividual plants,
outdoor faucets, your h ouse water-service line, and any
additional b uried pipes ( i f you're planning to trenc h ) .
I f y o u h a v e a septic t a n k a n d leach field, n o t e their
locations and dimensions, as well. Use the b ase m a p of
your property ( see page 1 5 0 ) to determine the soil's
water-retaining characteristics. Measure water
pressure and water flow rate and add the infor­
mation to the plan.

As you plan your system, be sure to do the

following:

Determ i ne the hydrozones On an overlay of your

scale drawing, break the planting areas that wiLl be irri-

C O N N ECT I N G VALVES A N D T I M E R S
Connect control valves t o a timer with low-voltage insulated
cable (typically AWG-14 or 18) that's approved for direct
burial. A different color w i re joins each valve to a station on
the timer, and another color wire (usually white) links a l l the
valves to the t i mer.
Thus, if you have four
valves, you'll need OVERLAY the base
five-strand wire. map with tracing paper to
Run the w i re sketch out the irrigation plan.
underground to the
timer location, leaving gated into hydrozones, groups of plants that have similar
plenty of slack as you moisture needs. Take into account exposure, because
lay the wire; loop the plants in hot, sunny spots will need more frequent water­
wire at each valve and ing than those in cooler, shadier locations. Also consider
at turns i n the trench. soil types. Plants growing in a porous container mix, for
When you get to the example, should be watered more often than those in
timer site, bring the clay soil. Decide on the type of watering system you'll
wire a bove the ground employ for each hydrozone, for example, sprinklers or
and sta ple it along drip emitters.
walls, joists, and other Timer, above, combines electronic When you actually plan an irrigation system, you'll
surfaces as needed. and mechanical controls. Each solenoid be using this drawing as an aid in plotting the circuits,
valve has two wires. One is the common which are groups of watering devices connected to their
Connect as shown at
wire that connects valves (below) and
right. own separate control valves. Only plants with the same
the common-wire terminal. The other
basic watering requirements should be on the same cir­
wire connects each individual valve to
a numbered station on the timer. cuit-hence the reason for initially hydrozoning your
diagram. If a hydrozone is small enough, you may be
able to include all of the watering devices in it on a sin­
gle circuit. I f your home's water supply is insufficient for

:��
all of the devices to work at the same time, you'll have
2 VALVES ' -4 to break the hydrozone into two or more circuits.

y
.
, '" Dete r m i n e your soil type Sprinkler systems work well
COMMON in sandy soil and in loam. Clay soil absorbs water so
WIRE
slowly that low-flow sprinkler heads are needed to avoid
; excessive runoff. For more information about soil and
soil types, see pages 300 through 303 .

SPRINKLER ANO DRIP SYSTEMS 213

Check the water pre s s u re Water jxessure is measu red
i n pound,� per square inch ( psi ) . Most sprinklers won't
wL,rk ellicicnrly if the psi is too low. To measure your
house's water pressure, screw a water pressure gauge
onto an outdoor faucet and, with all other water outlets
turned off, rum the faucet on at fuJI blast. Record the psi
at each outside faucet location ( if you have more than
one), taking several readings th rou g hout the day. Use the
lowest reading as a conservative basis when calculating
sprinlJer output.
C h e c k the water f l o w rate The flow rate, the amount
of water that moves through pipes in a given period of
time, is measured in gallons per hour (gph ) or gaJlons
A S p r i n k l e r Syst e m O v e rv i ew
ELECTRIC CONTROL VALVE
ANTI SIPHON CONTROL VALVE
FLEXIBLE RISER
SIDE-OUTLET
ELBOW
� T-FlnING
SWING JOINT
214 LAY I N G THE F O U N D AT I O N
per min ute (gp m ) . To determine flow rate, count how
many seconds an outdoor faucet takes to fill a gallon
container. Divide the n u m ber of seconds by 60 to
determi n e the gpm . (Note that for this method of
illeasuring gpm to be accu rate, the outdoor faucet
must be the same diameter as the supply pipe. ) Write
this figure on your plan; you'J] use it when plotting
circuits.
Generally, the total output of a circuit of sprinklers
should not ex ceed 75 percent of the gpm. Otherwise, the
heads won't work properly and household water pressure
may clip. If the sprinkler circuit requires a higher flow rate,
create several separate circuits, each directed by its own
control valve.
HITTING
NEW SUI)PL'Y-�
PIPE
SCHEDULE 80 PVC RISERS
� SCHEDULE 40 PVC PIPE
�
ELBOW FIniNG
U N D E R G R O U N D S P R I N K L E R SYST E M S
Before you begin your installation , you need to
famiIiarize yourself with valves, sprinkler heads,
and timers; thei r cha racteristics are described below.
Understa n d i ng valves The system begins at a cold­
water supply pipe, where you connect the new supply
line with a T-fitting. I nstall a new shutoff valve on the
new supply pipe (or at the end of the old pipe) so you
can shut off the sprinkler system without turning off the
water to your house.
The new supply pipe carries water to control valves
with integral antisiphon devices ( which create an air gap
at a high point in the system which prevents irrigation
water from contaminating house water ) . Each valve
operates a circuit, a separate set of sprinklers. Place the
valves in a convenient, inconspicuous place, grouping
them into what's called a manifold to avoid extra dig­
ging and to make operation easier.
In an automated system, low-voltage wires run from
the manifold to a controller, which may be anything
from a simple mechanical timer to a complex digital sys­
tem. The controller directs the watering cycle by auto­
matically activating the control valves for the different
circuits so that they turn on for a preset time period.
S p r i n k l e r H e a d S ty l e s
BUBBLER
SPRAY HEAD
Choos i n g s p r i n kler heads The two broad categories of
sprinkler heads are spray and rotary. Spray heads operate
at relatively low water pressu re-from 1 5 to 3 0 psi-so
they're a good choice for precise, controlled watering of
shrubs, irregular landscaping, and fairly small lawns.
Rotary heads need more pressure to operate ( from 3 0 to
70 psi) and throw water substantially farther-up to 90
feet-which makes them economical for very large lawns
and landscaped areas.
Sprinkler heads also come in many different spray
parterns, including full, half, and quarter circles, as well
as rectangular shapes. Some heads have adjustable
patterns and throw distances. Low-flow nozzles reduce
runoff, improve spray uniformity, and allow a larger area
to be irrigated with a given amount of water.
For open lawn areas where foot traffic and mowing
will occur, install pop-up heads that automatically rise
when the water goes on and drop down when watering
is finished.
Detail your proposed sprinkler system on a copy of
the base map of your property. Note where you need to
locate sprinkler heads. To determine the spacing and the
radius (or throw) for each head, check the manufac­
turer's workbook. Next, break your system into separate
circuits, called stations, keeping in mind the output rates
just discussed. Avoid placing rotary and spray sprinklers,
shrub and lawn sprinklers, or low-flow and standard
sprinklers on the same circuit. Note that a T- or H­
shaped circuit will deliver water more evenly to all heads
than a straight-line circuit wiJ.l because the last head in a
line typically receives less water pressure.
Choos i n g a t i m e r The heart of an automated watering
system is a timer, also caJ.led a controller, a mechanical or
electronic clock that automatically regulates the operation
of each sprinkler circuit connected to it. For all but the
smallest system, choose an electronic timer that aJ.lows you
to set watering frequency and duration.
You'll probably need a multistation
model--one that has a circuit for
each control valve. Dual- or
multiple-program controllers let
pop-up HEAD you water a lawn on a more
frequent schedule than that
needed for ground covers,
trees, and shrubs. A rain- or
moisture-sensing shuroff
will override the program­
ming if a certain amount of
rain has fallen or if the soil
is sufficiently moist.
SPRINKLER AND DRIP SYSTEMS 215
I N STA L L I N G S P R I N K L E R A N D D R I P SYST E M S
The benefits o f a n irrigation system are well known­
water and time savings, healthier plants, and reduced
maintenance. The installation procedure for the main
type of system-underground sprinklers.
Permanent un derground sprinklers, with their
network o f u n dergro u n d pipes l i nking sp rin kler heads
that spray on command, are the t raditional way to
water lawns in regions where rainfall is skimpy or
sporadic. Some people use sprin klers throughout the
I n st a I I i n g U n d e rg ro u n d S p r i n k l e rs
o Dig 8-inch-deep trenches for p i pes (deeper i n where so i l s
freeze). To keep trench l i n es stra i g h t , r u n stri n g between two
sta kes.
o Assemble pipes from the control valve �utward, fitting ris­
ers and sprinkler heads to el bows, Ts, and side outlets. Joi nts
may screw together or require PVC cp.ment.
216 LAYING T H E fOUNDATION
garden, b u t others prefer more water-conserving d ri p
irrigation beyo n d t h e lawn a n d perhaps t h e ground
covers.
Most systems can be attached to a n existing water
supply pipe ( I -inch diameter or larger is best) . Because
d rip systems require only low water volume an d
pressure, you may be able to connect the system to a
convenient outdoor faucet; check the manufacturer's lit­
erature. Also pick out some possible locations for the
valves. Consider how they might be concealed (they can
MAIN WATER
SUPPLY
f) Connect pipes to the water su pply p i pe, a n d then attach a
control valve (with a b u i l t - i n a nt i s i phon va lve) at least 6 inches
a bove grou n d . Use th ick-walled % - i n c h PVC p i pe.
SPRINKLER HEAD
o Flush out pipes with heads removed. Replace heads. Fill i n
trenches, m o u n d i n g loose soil along center o f t rench. Ta m p t h e
s o i l firm ly. Avo i d striking the s p r i n k l e r heads.
be unsightly) and, if your system will be automated, M i l d c l i mates

ir uc:::ID Q_I
where to put the timer and how far it will be from an
"-oQl1
D�:': ��. SERVIHOUSELINE�CE
electrical connection.
Drip systems also require a proper filter, pressure
if
regulator, and backflow device. Filters ensure that
emitters don't clog. Pressure regulators prevent too
FAUCET /�
much water pressure from building up in the system, SHUTOFF VALVE �
possibly forcing off the emitter heads. Backflo\\'
devices, usually required by law, prevent irrigation TOVALVES
CONTROL ��
water from backing into your home's water supply. �
Whether or not your system is automated, check it
often for broken or clogged sprinklers or emitters.

TY I N G I N TO Y O U R WAT E R S U P P LY
A small drip system (see page 2 1 8 ) can be screwed
directly onto an outdoor faucet. But for larger, multicir­
cuit irrigation systems, you'll have to tap into the water
pipes at a faucet or in the service line, either outdoors or
at a basement meter. Install a shutoff valve so that you
can turn off water to the irrigation system without inter­
rupting the water flow to the house. From the shutoff
valve, run pipe to the comrol valves you'll be putting in
for your irrigation system.
Remember to shut off the main water supply first,
before the point of connection. If you're apprehensive
Connecting at an outdoor faucet avoids cutting pipe.
Remove the faucet and install a 1> - or Y. - inch brass or
galvanized T ( a T-shaped fitting) ; choose one with dif­
ferent-size ourlets if you want to connect '/,- inch irriga­
tion pipe to 1> -inch faucet pipe. Reattach the faucet,
and then install a nipple in the stem of the T and con­
nect a shutoff valve to that.
Co l d c l i mates

SERVIHOUSE
about tapping into your water pipes, leave this aspect of

\1
the job to a professional.
CE LINE r
� L OOM,"""",
:rf�
m
A l l reg ions

Ta pping i nto t h e service l i n e outdoors may be most
convenient. After shutting off the water, remove a shorr
section of pipe, leaving just enough of a gap to slide on a
compression T. Slip the T over each end of the cut pipe,
and then tighten the compressio n nuts. Install a nipple of
a convenient length in the stem of the T and attach a
shutoff valve to it. For access to the valve, place it in a
valve box.
�?'�=����=�=VO:=F::::rIi!Dr !
�===
===:Jf1 . �
WATER METER
U s i n g a basement connection is necessary where frost
reaches deep into the soil. Cut out a short piece of the
service line just beyond the water meter. Install a
compression T and a shutoff valve, as for the outdoor
service l i ne connection, above. Then drill a hole
through the basement wall above the fou ndation for
the outgoing pipe, making the hole just large enough
to accommodate the pipe. To be able to drain the sys­
tem before winter, install a drain cap at the lowest part
of the assembly.

SPRINKLER AND DRIP SYSTEMS 217

I N STA L L I N G A D R I P SYST E M
Drip irrigation is the most practical, efficient way to
water garden plants. In a typical system, water flows
th rough lengths of flexible tubing and delivers water just
where you want it-over plant roots-in a gradual flow
adjusted for each plant's requirements. Here are the
essential components of a drip system.
Control valves turn the water on and off. If you h ave a
single drip line attached to an outdoor faucet, that faucet
is the control valve. If your drip line is attached to a bat­
tery-operated timer at hose connection, your control valve
is built into the timer. If the drip line connects directly to
your water line, a separate manual or remote-control valve
is required for each circuit.

H ead asse m b l y Backflow preventer keeps outside water from flowing

The components that connect t h e water source t o the
drip system are known collectively as the head assembly.
This includes a manual control valve or timer, backflow
preventer, filter, and pressure regulator.
A u t o m a t e d D ri p Syste m H o o k u p
back into the water supply. One common type is an anti­
siphon valve, which creates a n air gap at the high point
i n the system .
Fi Iters prevent the small openings on the emitters from
becoming clogged. Small in-line filters are the least expen­
sive and are usualJy fin e for small systems and clean water
supplies, but you have to take apart the lines to wash the
screens. Larger Y-filters allow for easy cleaning.

Pressure regulator adjusts household water pressure

downward, allowing your drip system to run at its ideal
1 5 to 3 0 pounds per square inch (psi) .

Fert i l izer i njector, connected between the control valve

and the pressure regulator, puts fertilizer directly into the
plant's water supply. Some filters have built-in injectors.
SCHEDULE
PVC RISER
80
Tu b i ng and Fitti ngs
These carry water from the head assembly to the

MIANDCROSPRAY
STAKE
different parts of the landscape.

PRESSURE
REGULATOR Basic Hooku p
HOSE BIBB
Y," POLYETHYLENE TUBING

ANTIVALVE
SIPHON
SHUTOFF
VALVE Y." SPAGHETTI
TUBING 1III....
II � . _------::7 DRIP EMITTERS PRESSURE
REGULATOR
IN-LINE EMITTER END CAP
MISTER
218 LAYING T H E FOU N DA T I O N
Drip t u b i n g is made of flexible black polyethylene. It
comes in ;/'-inch (standard) and % -inch diameters and is
flexible enough ( especia1ly if warmed in the sun) to be
snaked through plantings and looped around trees and
shrubs. You can inserr emitters directly into the tubing
or instaH them in smaHer tubing (micrQ[ubing) that
branches off the main line.
M icrotu b i n g is sma1l-diameter (usua1ly ;0 -inch ) , flexible
polyethylene used to link individual sprayers or emit­
ters to the larger drip tubing. Use stakes to hold
microtubing i n place.
Fittings connect the system. Couplings aHow you to join
two sections of tubing, T-fittings let you branch off in
different directions, and L-shaped fittings are useful for
making sharp turns. End caps close off the ends of drip
tubing, and goof plugs are indispensable for sealing
holes you've punched in the wrong place.
WAT E R I N G D E V I C E S
Most watering devices let water drip o r ooze onto the
root zone, while some spray water into the air like minia-
ture sprinklers. Ooze tubing, laser tubing, and other
porous tubing types double as pipes and emitters.
Drip em itters drip water directly onto the soil. Most
have barbed ends that snap into the waJl of the drip tub­
ing or that push into the ends of microtubing. Drip emit­
ters typicaJly dispense 1" 1, or 2 gallons per hour (gph),
and manufacturers color-code them to make their output
obvious. For help in choosing the right emitters for your
soil type and plants, see the chart below.
M icrosprays are available in quarter-, half-, and full-cir­
cle patterns, as well as a bow-tie shape. These little heads
are useful for covering tight or irregular spaces.
M i n i s p r i n klers, also called spinners, cover larger areas
than microsprays can, throwing water in circles measur­
ing from 10 to 30 feet across.
M i sters are used to raise the humidity or to water hang­
ing plants or bonsai. Misters are often positioned above
hanging plants so that the spray is directed downward.
For in-ground plants, aim misters upward.

D R I P EM ITTER S E LECT I O N G U I D E

This list provides general OUTPUT NU MBER OF PLACEMENT

guidelines for the number RATE EM ITTERS OF EM ITTERS
and output of emitters for
various types of plantings. Vegetables, closely spaced Y2-1 gph Every 12 in.
The goal is to wet at least
60 percent of the root lone, Vegetables, widely spaced 1-2 gph At base of plant
so you may need to make
adjustments depending on Flower beds 1 gph At base of plant
your soil type. Water tends to
drip mainly downward in Ground covers 1 gph At base of plant
sandy soils but spreads
wider before it goes deep in Shrubs (2-3 ft.) 1 gph l or 2 At base of plant
loam and clay soils (see
page 390). Wherever a range Shrubs and trees (3-5 ft.) 1 gph 6-12 in. on opposite sides
is given for the emitters,
choose the higher number if Shrubs and trees (5-10 ft.) 2 gph 2 or 3 2 ft. from trunk
your soil is sandy, the lower
one if it has a lot of clay. To Shrubs and trees ( 1 0-20 ft.) 2 gph 3 or 4 3 ft. apart, at drip line
avoid runoff on a slope, you
may need more emitters of a Trees (over 20 ft.) 2 gph 6 or more 4 ft. apart, at drip line
lower output.

SPRINKLER AND DRIP SYSTEMS 219

 IN TH IS CHAPTER

/
 Stained and embossed concrete patio with inset boulders-also
fashioned of concrete-makes an elegant space for entertaining.
Fireplace and counter base are formed with blocks made of recycled
plastic foam and cement.

Concrete Basics
M A K I N G A N D SHAPING I T
Although sometimes d isparaged a s cold and for forms and 12-inch 1 -by-3s or
forbidding, pou red---Dr. more accurately, 2-by-2s for stakes. If you leave
cast-concrete can be more varied in the lumber in place as per-
appearance than brick. And if you manent edgings and
eventually get tired of the con­ dividers, use rot-resistant
crete surface you've chosen, you can cedar or pressure­
use it as a foundation for a new pave­ treated lumber. For
ment of brick, stone, or tile set in mortar. curved forms, choose
The standard slab for pathways and patios is tempered hardboard, ply­
4 inches thick. In addition, allow for a 4- to 8-inch base in wood, or, if edgings will be
most areas ( i n frost-free areas, 2 inches is· sufficient). Forms permanent, metal.
for concrete are built in the same way as for wood edg­ To prevent buckling and cracking, reinforce a con­
ings. For standard paving, you will need 2-byAs on edge crete area more than 8 feet square with 6-inch welded

222 B U I LOING PATI O S . OECKS. AND FENCES

A series of individually formed concrete squares forms this courtyard
floor. Beach pebbles set in mortar fill the gaps between squares.

wire mesh; install it after the forms are ready. If you're

not sure whether your slab will need this reinforce­
ment, consult your building department or a landscape
architect or contractor.
Although many people think concrete is just cement,
it is actually a combination of ponland cement, sand,
aggregate (usually gravel ) , and water. The cement, which
is a complex, finely gtound material, undergoes a chemi·
cal reaction when mixed with water, and becomes a kind
of glue that binds everything together. It also gives the
finished ptoduct its hardness. The sand and aggregate landscape timbers serve as both forms and edging for steps
act as fillers and control shrinkage. made of concrete with exposed aggregate.
Buying bagged, dry ready- mixed concrete is expen·
sive but convenient, can be hard work. Use a power mixer, which can be
especially for smaLl rented, for large forms that must be filled in a single pour.
jobs. The standard Use this formula for regular concrete (the proportions are
90-pound bag by volume):
makes Y; cubic foot
of concrete, enough 1 part cement 2X parts aggregate
to fill one posthole 2)0 parts sand )0 part water
or to cover a 1 6-
inch-square area 4 Some dealers also supply trailers containing about
inches deep. 1 cubic yard of wet, ready-mixed concrete (about
[f your project is enough for an 8- by l O-foot patio ) . These trailers have
fairly large, order either a revolving drum that mixes the concrete or a
materials in bulk and simple metal box into which the concrete is placed.
Mix small amounts of concrete by hand in mix them yourself, Both types are designed to be hauled by car.
a wheelbarrow. Measure the sand, cement, either by hand or For a large patio, plan to have a commercial transit­
and aggregate; dry-mix them. Make a with a power mixer. mix truck deliver enough concrete to allow you to fin­
depression in the center and pour water For small projects, ish your project i n a single pour. To locate concrete
into it. Mix, then repeat the process until hand mixing is less plants, look i n the Yellow Pages under "Concrete,
the consistency is right. compllcated, but it Ready Mixed . "

CONCRETE BASICS 223

 A sunny veranda is clothed in nonslip concrete that stays cooler in direct
sun. The concrete's color and texture complement the house's exterior.

Casting a Concrete Patio

PREPA RATION IS K E Y
Pouring a sim ple concrete s l a b is nothing magical as H o w to p o u r a s l a b
long as you make the proper preparations. But for
more elaborate projects, a contractor with a crew m ay
be needed to achieve the desired results.
To start, lay out stakes and mason's lines to mark
the outline of the slab, allowing for at least a I - inch
drop for each 10 feet away from the house for
drainage. If the exposed soil is soft, wet it and then
tamp it firmly.
Use wood, steel, or copper dividers as permanent
partitions. They also serve a s control joints to prevent
cracking and help break u p the job into several man­
ageable pours.
Before pouring, be s u re to add any required rei n ­
fOI·cement t o t h e formwork. Check local b u ilding
codes; usu ally, 6-inch-sq uare welded wire mesb is the
best cboice for paving. o For rough grading, dig deep enough to a l l ow for 4 i nches
Pour large areas i n sections and be s u re to have of concrete plus 2 to 8 i nches of gravel. Construct form s from
helpers on hand to assist with hauling and s p reading 2-by-4s secu red to 1 2 - i nch stakes, placing the form tops at
the wet concrete. Wear gloves to protect your hands fin ished s l a b height. Add welded w i re mesh for reinforcement.
from the concrete's caustic ingredients a n d rubber
boots if you have to walk o n the wet m i x .

224 BUILDING P AT I O S , DECKS, AND FENCES

• Begin pouring concrete at one end of a form while a helper
spreads it with a hoe. Work concrete up agai nst the form and
tamp it into corners, but don't press it down too hard. A splash­
board or ramp lets you pour the concrete where you want.
o Initial floating smooths high spots and fills small hollows
left after screeding. As shown, use a darby for small jobs and a
bull float with an extension handle for larger s labs .
• c
- ' /'
/-
JOIN!tR
o U se a jointer to m a ke grooves, called control joints, to
reduce slab crackings. Joint spacing varies, but is usua lly 1 2
times the slab's thickness, i n inches.
e W i t h a helper, move a 2-by-4 screed across the form to
level concrete, using a ra pid zigzag, sawing motion. A third per­
son c a n shovel concrete into any hollows.
e Run the edge of a trowel between concrete and form. Then
run a n edger back and forth to create a smooth, c u rved edge.
/
o Before the surface stiffens, give it a final floating with a
wooden float. For a smoother surface, follow with a steel trowel.
For a nonskid surface, drag a broom lightly across the concrete,
without overlapping strokes.
CASTING A CONCRETE PAT I O 225
Working with Concrete and Mortar
THREE B A S I C T E C H NI Q U E S
Not only versatile, concrete i s one o f the most essential
tools of outdoor construction. For instance, a strong con­
crete footing is basic to masonry walls whether they're
built of man ufactured bricks or blocks, or stone.
Or perhaps the practicality of a poured slab appeals to
Po u r i n g a Foot i n g
Garden walls need a solid concrete base called a foot­
ing. Very low walls (no more than 1 2 inches ) , modular
block walls, and dry-stone walls may require only a lev­
eled trench or a rubble base, but other walls require a
footing made from concrete that's twice as wide and at
least as deep as the wall's thickness. I n cold-weather
o Prepare a base for the floating by leveling and t a m ping t h e 8 Build forms and set any req u i red reinforc i n g b a rs on a
bottom o f the trench a n d a d d i n g a 6 - i n c h layer of gravel.
e Pour concrete and insert any vertical reinforcing b a rs
req u i red by codes.
226 BUILDING P AT I O S , DECKS, AND FENCES
you, but not the look. Here there are many options, but
one of the simplest ways to dress up a slab is to embed
stones in it. Or for a more naturalistic look, pave it with
flagstones. Basic techniques for both are shown on the fac­
i.ng page.
areas, extend the footing below the frost line. Add 6
inches to the trench depth for a bottom layer of gravel.
If you need to pour post footings for a deck, fence,
arbor, or other small jobs, use bags of ready-mixed
concrete.
BRACE
layer of broken bricks or other rubble.
G Smooth the surface. Screed until level with tops of forms
a n d cover with a pl astic sheet; let c u re for two days, a n d then
str i p forms and sta rt b u i l d i n g the w a l l .
Sett i n g F l a g sto n e i n M o rt a r Over C o n c rete
Flagstone is a versatile paving material you can use in
many ways. One to consider is placing flagstone in a
bed of morral' over a concrete slab . For this method,
you can either starr with an existing concrete slab ( it
must be clean, in good condition, and at least 3 inches
thick) or pour a new foundation. Ask your Lowe's
associate whether you need to use a bonding agent on
the slab's su rface. If the stones are porous, wet them a
few hours before setting them to prevent them from
absorbing too much water from the mortar. Sponge off
any surface moisture before you place them in t-he
morral', to be cerrain you're getting a good bond.

o Use a mason's trowel to • Set each stone firmly in

spread enough mortar onto place, bedding it by tapping
the slab for one or two stones it with a rubber m a l let. To
at a ti me. Vary the thickness maintain an even surface, use
of the mortar bed to m a ke u p a carpenter's level on a
for variations i n stone thick­ straight piece of 2-by-4. As
ness, but it should be at least you work, clean the stones
1 i nch deep. Furrow the mor­ with a damp sponge.
tar with the trowel.

e let the mortar set for 24 o Smooth the joints with

hours, then grout the joints the trowel and clean up spills
with mortar. Make the same with a d a m p sponge. Keep the
mix you used for the setting grout damp for the first day by
bed, plus a n optional Y:! part sprinkling it with water or by
fireclay to improve workabil ity. covering it with plastic sheet­
If the stone is a sta ining type, i ng. Keep off the paved area
use a mortar bag to squeeze for three days.
the grout into the joints;
otherwise, use the trowel.

Sett i ng Sto n es i n Wet C o n c rete

Jazz up a concrete patio or path with pebbles pressed
into the freshly poured su rface. Level the poured
concrete about Y, inch lower than the form boards.
Sprinkle pebbles evenly i n a single layer. Using a block
of wood, a float, or a darby, press the pebbles down
until they lie j ust below the su rface of the concrete.
Refloat the concrete, smoothing down high spots and
filling hollows.
When the slab begins to harden , gently brush the
surface while wetting it with a fine spray until the tops
of the stones show. Any cement left on the stones can
be removed with a 1 0 percent muriatic acid solution.
Push larger stones into the concrete one by one, sink­
ing more than half the stone.

WORKING WITH CONCRETE ANO M O RTAR 227

Building a Block Wall
STRON G , DURABLE, AND SOLID
For fast, inexpensive construction of a masonry wall,
concrete blocks are ideal. They go up quickly and are
rugged. However, a block wall must rest on a strong,
level concrete footing. Find a contractor to do this work
for you.
First, lay out a dry course, or row, of blocks, spacing
them is inch apart, and try to plan the wall so that no
o Spread a bed of m o rtar, 2 i nches thick and wide enough
for three blocks, over the footing. Then place the f i rst-course
corner block carefully and press it down to form an accurate
% -inch joint with the footing. Mortar the ends of the next
blocks, a n d then set each one % inch from the previous block.
e Fi l l in blocks between the leads, keepi ng % -inch joint
spacing. Freq uently check a l ign ment, level, and plumb. To fit
the closure block, butter all edges of the ope n i n g and the ends
of the block, and then press the block f i rm ly into place.
228 BUILDING PAT I O S , DECKS, AND FENCES
block cutting is necessary (you can also draw a plan on
graph paped. If cutting is unavoidable, use the method
described for bricks on page 2 3 3 .
Build the wall with standard wall-building mortar,
but keep the mix slightly stiff. Otherwise, the weight of
the blocks may squeeze it our of the joints. A running
bond pattern is the simplest to construct.
f) Check level often as you b u i l d up leads (at least t h ree
courses high) at both ends. Strin g a mason's line between
corner blocks as a guide to keep blocks straight. Sta rt each
even-num bered course with a half block. Mortar all edges.
o As you work, finish joints with a joi nter or a wooden dowel.
Solid cap blocks, ava i l a ble in various t h i c knesses, provide the
s i m plest way to top off the last course. Sim ply mortar them in
place on full bed joints, as show n . Tap i nto place and level.
Ad d i n g a Ve n ee r of Sto n e
Walls built of concrete blocks are good for holding
steep or unstable hillsides, and they can be veneered
with natural stone to look like a solid stone wall. Unless
you're an experienced do-it-yourselfer, have a qualified
contractor build the block waU, reinforcing as necessary
to meet the building department's specifications, and
then do the veneering yourself
Make sure that noncorrosive metal wall ties, spaced
2 to 3 feet apart, are inserted in the mortar joints in every
other row of blocks. Bend them into the joints between
the stones to anchor the stones to the wall (as shown) , or
attach them with masonry screws. Alternatively apply a
1-INCH
MORTAR
LAYER
VENEER
STONES
o Place 1 inch of mortar on the wall footing a n d lay the
first stone 1 inch from the wall. Check the mortar; it should be
d ry enough to hold the stone. Com pletely fill the space
between the stone and the wa l l with mortar. Then conti n u e to
lay the first course of stones along the length of the wa ll a s
you wou ld f o r a freesta nd i n g w a l l .
concrete bonding agent to the wall instead of using ties.
If you're mortaring stone onto an existing concrete
block wall, excavate to the concrete footing, clean the
surface of the wall and footing, and let it dry before you
start. Pur metal wall ties in place as described above,
nailing them into the blocks, not the joints. Be sure to
buy veneer stone, which is cut to a uniform thickness,
and face the rougher side outward.
Make a dryish mortar mix, about the consistency of
oatmeal, from 1 1.. part portland cement, Y, part fireclay,
and 3 or 4 parts sand. A dry mortar will dry more
quickly, and it won't easily run out of the joints.
METALTIE
WALL
CONCRETE
BLOCKS
G Lay the second course of stones, followin g the stone­
m a son's rule of "one stone over two, two over one." Mortar
each stone to the stones beneath it and to the wall, f i l l i ng
the spaces completely. Fit the stones so that you c a n bend
the wall ties i nto the joints between the courses. Cap the
wa ll with flat stones, mortared together, with the edges
overh a n g i n g a bout a n i n c h .
BUILDING A BLOCK WALL 229
Building Stone and Modular Block Walls
H E AVY AND P E RM A N E N T P L U S A C L A S S I C L O O K
The key t o building a n attractive stone wall i s careful 1 0 square feet of wall surface.
fitting. Properly placed, the stones make a harmonious A wall should slope on both sides, so that its bottom
and pleasing pattern, and the finished wall looks like a is thicker than its top. This tilting of the faces is called
unit rather than a random pile of rocks. batter and helps secure the wall, because the faces lean
Mortarless stone walls are usually laid up in on each other. The amount of batter will vary. A good
two vertical stacks, with rubble fill between them . rule is to plan 1 to 2 inches of batter for each 2 feet of
Bond stones, equivalent to headers in brickwork, run rise-more if stones are very round and less if they are
across the width of the wall, tying it together. Use well· trimmed ashlar.
as many bond stones as possible-at least 1 for every
BATTER GAUGE
o Lay 8 Lay
foundation stones atop
stones in a the first
trench course, being
.� \' ��\
a bout 6 ;: ./
� ,.. s u re to
������,.v . r " f'" inches stagger vertical
.r""-lU�� �I : . ' deep. Place joi nts. Select stones
.idfJ.P, · a bond stone (one that fit together solidly.
as deep as the wall) at Tilt the stones of each face inward
BOND STONE each end; then start the two
face courses at both edges of the trench.
toward one a nother. Use a batter gauge
(see facing page) on the faces a n d ends of the w a l l .
Choose whole, well-sha ped stones for the face courses. To tie the faces o f the wall together, p l a c e b o n d stones every
Fill in the space between the face courses with tightly packed 5 to 10 square feet. Agai n , pack the center with rubble a n d
rubble (broken pieces of stone) s m a l l stones.

MASON'S HAMMER e C o ntin u e o Finish the top

to a d d with as many
courses, flat, broad
staggering stones a s
vertical possi ble. I f
joi nts a n d y o u l ive in a
m a i nt a i n ­ frost-prone
ing the a rea, mortar
i nward slope, the cap as
so that gravity shown. T h i s
and the friction will help hold the wall together. Gently ta p w i l l a l low water
s m a l l stones i nto any gaps with a ma son's,h a m me r, b ut don't to drain off the wall and help prevent ice from form i n g between
overdo it; driving them i n too tight may d islodge stones you've the stones and p u s h i n g them apart. Don't i ndent these j oi nts.
a l ready set. Use a scrap of wood to m a ke them flush with the face of the top
stones and thus prevent water from collecting.

230 BUILDING PAT I O S , DECKS, AND FENCES

 U S I N G A BATT E R GAU G E
To check the tilt on a wall,
make a batter gauge by taping
together a 2-by-4 board, a
scrap block, and a carpenter's
level. When using the gauge,
keep the outer edge plumb with
the level.
If you're a beginner, give
the wall a broad base-for a
wall 3 feet high, make the base
at least 2 feet wide and consid­
erably wider if the stone is very
round. Usually, only skilled
stonemasons can construct a narrow dry-stone wall with faces
that are almost vertical.
Place the stones near the site and sort them out before
you begin. Use the largest ones for the foundation course,
longer ones for the bond stones, and reserve broad, flat stones
to finish oH the capping row.
B U I LD I N G A M O RTAR E D WALL
A mortared wall must be
set atop a concrete
footing. Spread a
l-inch-thick mortar bed
at one end of the foot­
ing and set the first
bond stone. Start the
face courses at both
edges of the footing,
spreading a mortar bed as you work. Pack joints with mortar;
solidly fill the space between the front and back faces with
rubble and mortar. For each course, build a mortar bed over
the previous course; then set the new row of stones in place,
placing a bond stone every 5 to 10 square feet and offsetting
vertical joints. Dry-fit the stones before spreading the mortar
bed and fill large gaps with small stones. As you work, check
the stones' align ment and the plumb of the wall faces. After
laying a section, use a piece of wood to rake out the joints to
a depth of \.'2 to % inch.

B u i l d i n g a M o d u l a r B l o c k Wa l l
For a modular system, such as the one shown at right, dig
a trench 2 feet wide and 6 inches deeper than the thickness LANDSCAPE
FABRIC
of the block. String mason's twine to mark the front edge
of the wall. Pour a concrete footing or 6 inches of gravel
GRAVEl
into the trench and compact it firmly with a hand tamper. BACKFILL
Check that the base is level.
PERFORATED

o Lay the foundation row of blocks on the gravel footing. If

DRAINPIPE

the blocks have a rea r lip, i n sta ll this first row upside down a n d
backward, so t h a t the block surface t h a t rests on t h e gravel i s
f l a t a n d the l i p is f a c i n g u p at the front o f t h e w a l l . C heck that GRAVEl DR
CONCRETE
the blocks are level, a ligned with the twine, and entirely below FOOTING
ground. Lay the second row of blocks, staggerin g the joints .

• Backfill the space behind the wall with gravel a n d tamp

the gravel firmly with a hand tam per. Place the next a n d subse­
quent rows of blocks in the s a m e m a n ner, backfilling and com­
pacting the gravel after laying each row.
o Lay landscape fabric over the gravel backfill before you
replace the topsoil and p l a nt behind the wall. The fa bric will
help prevent soil from clogging the gravel backfill.
For low retaining walls, modular masonry units are available in various
styles and weights. Some use cast lips, as shown above, to establish the
setback and resist outward·pushing forces. Other types are tied together
with fiberglass or steel pins that drop through holes in upper blocks and
stop in grooves on units.

BUILOING STONE ANO MOOULAR BLOCK WALLS 231

Patio Paver Essentials
\'V ORKI N G WITH mUC K AN D C O N C RETE PAVERS
Interlocking pavers provide a stable surface f o r large, artistic clay
planters. The Japanese-style torii (gate) is a transformed swing set.
The average patio hosts a wide variety of out­
door activities. With the right amenities, it can
be a breakfast nook, living area, reading room,
and play area all in one. Before you get to the
stage of choosing amenities, however, you ' ll
want to select the patio's more basic
elements: its surface material, edging,
and any stairs or walkways required to
join the patio to the garden or to link
different patio areas. Your decisions
about these essentials will largely determine
232 BUILOING P AT I O S . DECKS, ANO FENCES
the style and cost of you r project. For more about patio
planning, see pages 82 and 8 3 .
With careful preparation a n d installation, a brick-in­
sand path or patio will prove ro be as durable as bricks
set in mortar. In addition, if you decide to change the
surface later, you need only to chip out one brick ro
remove the rest in perfect condition.
Typically, you prepare a bed of 1 1,- to 2 - inch-thick
sand or rock fines (a mix of grain sizes) and lay the
bricks with closed joints. If your garden's drainage is
poor, you may also need to add a 4-inch gravel base (in
areas where the growld freezes, 6 to 8 inches is advis­
able ) . An optional layer of landscape fabric will suppress
the growth of weeds.
To hold both the bricks and sand firmly in place,
b u i ld permanent edgings around the perimeter. Install
the edgings first: They serve as good leveling guides for
preparing and laying the bricks. If you have to do a lot
of cutting or shaping of complex angles ( along curved
edgings, for example) , rent a brick saw from a masonry
supplier or tool rental outlet.
Concrete pavers can also be laid in sand much like
bricks. With interlocking types, alignillent is nearly auto­
matic. After laying these units, make several passes with
a power-plate vibrator to settle them. You can probably
rent a vibrator locally; if not, use a heavy drum roller
instead. Spread damp, fine sand over
the surface; when it dries, sweep it
into the paver joints. Additional
passes with either vibrator or
roller will help lock the pavers
together.
Layi n g B r i c k s o r P a v e rs i n S a n d

o Typical brick-in-sand patio includes a gravel bed, a layer 8 String mason's l i n e s from stakes to serve as guides, first
of landscape fabric, packed sand, and rigid edgings, which hold to m ark edgings at the desired level a n d slope. Later, edgings
the bricks in place. Install edgings first. can serve as a reference for leveling sand and bricks.

1.<7"-_-_--F'-
SCREED?�::J
--- - ' -

• lay down a l Y1- to 2-i nch-thick layer of d a m pened sand o Another mason's line will help align courses. Begin at
and level it with a bladed screed, as shown. If necessary, use a one corner; lay bricks tightly, tapping each into place with a
tem porary guide on which to rest one end of the screed. hand sledge or m a l let. Check the level frequently.

e To cut bricks, score a line on all four sides (left) and m a ke G Throw fine sand over finished pavement, let dry for a few
the cut with one sharp blow (right). To cut angles, n i bble at the hours, and then sweep it with a stiff broom into joints. Spray
waste a rea in several passes, a little at a time. lightly with water, so that the sand settles com pletely.

P AT I O PAVER ESSENTIALS 233


Deck Making
BUILDING A BASIC ONE
A low-level, house-attached deck extends the indoor living
space. It is also a manageable and economical do-it-your­
self project. Before you begin, review the advice given on
pages 74 through 8 1 and check builcling codes. This type
of deck can be completed in a few weekends' time, but it
will require the work of at least t\vo people.
B u i l d i n g a Low - Le v e l D e c k
o Determine the position of the ledger and prop it i nto place
with 2-by-4 blocks or braces. Drill staggered,holes for l a g
screws every 1 6 i nches, and then fasten ledger i n p l ace, making
s u re it's level. To prevent rot, either space the ledger off the wall
with blocks or washers or add meta l flashing, as shown.
234 BUILDING PAT I O S , OECKS, ANO FENCES
Deck steps open wide to backyard. Both steps and railings match the
traditional style of the house. Trellis screens enhance privacy.
Think ahead about benches or other items that may
need to be integrated with the deck's framing. Be sure
the completed deck wiU be at least 1 inch below adj acent
access doors. If you're planning a freestanding deck,
substitute an extra beam and posts for the ledger shown;
extra bracing at the corners may also be necessary.
90' ANGW �
��'"'-
�" oS:-.
�
BATTER BOARDS
8 Batter boards mark the height of deck; b u i l d them at
outside corners, level with the ledger top. To m a rk the deck's
edges, strin g m a son's l i ne from the batter boards to the ledger.
To m ake corners square, use the 3-4-5 triangle method shown.
 PRECAST PIER

o Dangle a plumb bob from the mason's li nes to m a rk the o U nless piers have integral post anchors, add them now.
footings. Dig holes to depths requ i red by code; add gravel and Measure and cut posts-for this design, a joist's depth below
fill with concrete. Push piers into the concrete, level their tops, the top of ledger. Check p l u m b on two sides of each post,
and let the concrete set overnight. temporarily brace each in place, and fasten to piers.

e Position 2-by beams on each side of post tops After o Position joists at predeterm i ned span intervals; secure to
leveling them with post tops, c l a m p in place. Drill staggered ledger with framing con nectors. Set one beam and toenail in
holes; fasten beam s to posts with bolts or lag screws. place. Brace joists with spacers at open ends. Add posts for any
raili ngs or benches or an overhead anchored to deck fra m ing.

8 Align decking boards atop joists, staggeri ng joints (if any). o Finish decking e n d s and edges as desired with fascia
Space boards, leaving about 116 inch-or the thickness of a boards or other trim. If you plan benches, pla nters, steps, or
16d nail-for dra i nage. Fasten decking to joists with 1 6 d railings that aren't tied to the substructure, add them now.
common nails or deck screws. Trim edges w i t h a circular saw.

DECK MAKING 235

Deck Care
Even decks made of redwood, cedar, or nearly
indestructible pressure-treated wood need
maintenance and occasional restoration. The
process is pretty straightforward. First make
repairs, such as resetting nails and replacing dam­
aged boards. Next, apply a deck cleaner, followed
by a water-repellent finish.
The entire job usually takes only a couple of
days: one to repai r and clean the surface, and another to
apply a su rface treatment. But it's a good idea to wait
three to five days after cleaning to allow the deck to dry
thoroughly. Otherwise the finish won't penetrate fully.
Before you choose a cleaning product, determine
which problems apply to your deck.
To know if your deck is simply dirty, mix a sudsy solu­
tion of water and laundry detergent and use a stiff fiber
brush to scrub this into a small area of the deck. If the
deck is clean when you rinse the solution off, the problem
is dirt, and you can continue to wash the deck this way,
rinsulg it with a garden hose.
To test for mildew, apply undiluted household
liquid bleach to a small, inconspicuous area of the
deck. Let it stand for about 30 seconds, and then rinse
it off with water. If the deck comes clean , mildew is at
least part of the problem.
To test for stains caused by weathering or iron
( from ungalvanized nails or other metals ) , use an
oxalic acid-based cleaning product. Apply it to an
inconspicuous area, let it stand for 5 minutes, and then
scrub with a stiff fiber brush. If the deck comes clean,
weathering is the problem.
C H OO S I N G A C L E A N I N G P R O D U CT
Products with chlorine bleach will remove mildew, but
they may also affect the structure of the wood. A deck
cleaned with bleach will have a surface layer of loose
fibers, which may keep any finish you then apply from
adhering properly.
Acid-based cleaning products, including those with
an oxalic-acid base, can be used to clean decks discol­
ored b y iron or chemicals in the wood. These don't kill
mildew but may brighten a mildewed surface.
Ali-purpose deck-cleaning products deal all at once
236 BUILDING P AT I O S , DECKS, AND FENCES
with dirt,
mildew, stains,
and grayed cel­
lulose. Choose
a commercial
product and
follow the
manufacturer's
directions. Note that some of these products may darken
the wood, especially redwood and cedar.
Also consider less-toxic alternatives: Many environ­
mentally friendly products have a sodium percarbonate
base (similar to what's used in nonchJorine bleach).
Some products can dissolve old wood cells without dam­
aging healthy cells, and the c1eanulg solution itself, when
dissolved in water, becomes innocuous.
C H O OS I N G A F I N I S H
Whatever kind of finish you choose, it will be either a
sealer or a stain. Sealers have no pigment, while stams
have a little to a lot.
Oil-based finishes provide longer-lasting protection,
but you'll have to balance that agamst the convenience
of water cleanup. Water-based finishes also have the
advantage of being more forgiving when applied to
damp wood.
SAFETY FI R ST
• When applying cleaner or finish, wear safety goggles, rubber
gloves, a long-sleeved shirt, long pants, and closed-toed
shoes to minimize the chance of skin irritation.
• If product directions specify doing so, use a respirator when
you're scrubbing or using a pressure sprayer.
• Never mix different commercial cleaners. In particular, bleach
and a mmonia combine to make a lethal substance.
• If you use rags to apply a finish, spread them out to dry. Heat
generated by evaporating finish on a pile of rags can burst
into fla mes.
R estori n g a D e c k
o Use a strong spray of water t o blast
away most of the obvious debris a n d
gri me. If y o u u s e a pressure washer, don't
use more than 1 ,500 psi ( m ore could
damage the wood surface).
G Back-roll the finish to work it i nto the wood. Brush or roll over any pudd les.
G Apply a deck cleaner with a wide­
bristle broom and a llow it to soak in for
about 10 m i nutes. Note that some
pressure washers a l low you to apply
cleaner through the wand.
e Use a clean garden sprayer (or
power sprayer for large decks) to a pply
the finish. If you use a power sprayer,
as shown here, check the finish la bel for
the correct size of sprayer tip.
e Use a brush to protect the end gra i n
o f p l a n k i n g and joists. T h i s is the area
most vulnera ble to moisture penetration.
DECK CARE 237
Making Steps
B U I L D I N G B A S I C O N E S OF WOOD A N D BRICK
Laying o u t low, s i ngle back-garden steps doesn't
involve as much time and effort as planning runs of
well-designed formal steps; the latter requires an
understanding of proper proportions.
The flat part of a step is called the tread and the
vertical element is the riser. Ideally, the depth of the
tread plus twice the riser height should equal 25 to 27
inches. Based on an average length of stride, the ideal
outdoor step should have a 6-inch-high riser and a 1 5 -
inch-deep tread, b u t riser and tread dimensions can
vary. Risers should be no lower than 5 inches and no
h igher than 8 inches; tread depth should never be less
t h an 1 1 inches. The overall riser-tread relationship
should remain the same. All the risers and treads in
any one flight of steps should be uniform in size.
To fit steps evenly, you must calculate the degree of
slope. Using the drawing as a guide, first calculate the
distance fr0111 A to B : This is the rise, or change in
HOW MANY STEPS WILL YOU NEED?
TAPE STRAIGHT BOARD
THE TREAD-RISER RELAT I O N S H I P
TREADS
5 Y2�
� T I M B E R S OR T I E S
.:Jr
6 Y2 1N.
I
1 3 IN.
7�
238 BUILDING P AT I O S , DECKS, AND FENCES
level, of the slope. The horizontal distance from A to C
is called the run.
To determine the n u mber of steps you will need,
divide the desired riser height into the total rise of the
slope (in inches) . I f the answer ends in a fraction ( an d
it probably wil! ) , drop t h e fraction a n d divide the
whole number into the rise; the resulting figure will
give you the measurement for each of the risers. Then
check the illustrations (below left) to see if the corre­
sponding minimum tread will fit the slope's total run.
Rarely do steps fit exactly into a slope. More than
likely, you will have to cut and fill the slope to accom­
modate the steps. I f you r slope is too steep for even
8 - inch risers, remember that steps need not r u n
straight up a n d down. C u rves a n d switchbacks make
the distance longer b u t the climb gentler.
Plan on a minimum width of 2 feet for utility steps
and 4 feet for most others. If you want two people to
be able to walk abreast, allow 5 feet.
Both railroad ties and pressure-treated 6-by-6 timbers
make simple but rugged steps. To begin, excavate the
site and tamp the soil in the tread area firmly. Lay the
ties or timbers on the soil, and then drill a hole near
both ends of each tie or timber. With a sledge, drive BASKET-WEAVE PATTERN
NEEDS NO BRICK CUTTING
either )/, - inch galvanized steel pipes or Y.;-inch reinforc­
ing bars through the holes into the ground. For extra
support, pour smail concrete footings and set anchor
bolts i n the slightly stiffened concrete. When the con­
crete has set ( after about two days ) , secure the ties to
the footings with the bolts.
After the tie or timber risers are in place, fill the
tread spaces behind them with concrete, b rick-in-sand
paving, gravel, grass, or other material.

GRAVEL

WOO D E N STAI R S
Formal wooden steps are best for a low-level deck or
for easy access to a doorway. Make stringers from 2 -by­
lOs or 2-by- 12s. If the steps are more than 4 feet wide,
a third stringer will be needed in the middle.
Use galvanized bolts or metal joist hangers to
secure stringers to a deck beam or joist; if you're run­
ning stringers off stucco siding or another masonry
surface, hang them on a ledger, as shown. Note that
when bolts are used, the first tread is below the surface
of the house floor or deck; when joist hangers are the
fasteners, however, the first tread must be level with
the floor.
Attach the stringers at the bottom to wooden nail­
ing blocks anchored in a concrete footing. Build risers
and treads from 2 -by or � decking material cut to
width; treads should overlap the risers below and may
hang over slightly.
M A SO N R Y S T E P S
Steps can be built entirely of concrete or, for a finished
look, the concrete can be used as a base for mortared
masonry units.
First, form rough steps in the earth. Allow space for
at least a 6-inch gravel setting bed and a 4-inch thickness
of concrete on both treads and risers. ( In cold climates
you will need 6 to 8 inches of concrete, plus a footing
that reaches below the frost line.) Add the thickness of
any masonry units to tread and riser dimensions. Tamp
filled areas thoroughly.
With 2-by lumber, build forms like those shown on
page 226. Lay the gravel bed, keeping it 4 inches back
from the front of the steps; you will pour a thicker layer
of concrete at that potentially weak point. Reinforce with
6-inch welded wire mesh.
Pour and screed the concrete as for a poured con­
crete footing. To make treads more weather-safe, run a
broom over the wet concrete to roughen its surface, and
then cure it as for a concrete footing.

MAKING STEPS 239

Making Fences
B U I LD I N G A BASIC B OARD F E N C E
I n general, fence-building i s a straightforward task. The
hardest part is sinking the posts. If you have a long fence
run, use a power auger to make the job easier.
Before you set a post or pound a nail, check local
building and zoning codes, which may influence style,
material, setback, and other requirements. Then tackle
the building stages: plotting the fence, ius.ralling posts, and
finally, adding rails and siding. For fences 3 to 6 feet tall,
plan to set posts at least 2 feet deep-12 inches deeper for
end and gate posts. For taUer fences, the rule for post
depth is one-third the post length. Either dig postholes to a
uniform depth or cut the posts after they are in the
ground, After the posts are installed, the rest of the job is
easy, especially if you have a helper or two.
If you're planning to hang a gate, see pages 244
through 247 for construction and design pointers.

MASON'S LINE
-�
\ '.��::ix-fY
I __. �

t', PLUMB ". � , ,,;;;"'>'

; ,'"
,.: �"
� c:::
7
.�::::-
: //
'� I ;/
. .

�� -
.
,

. :--:;:;'��
� .
o Mark each end or corner post location with a stake. R u n
a mason's l i ne between the stakes, as shown. W i t h c h a l k, mark
the rema i n i n g post locations on the line. U s i n g a level or plumb
bob, transfer each mark to the ground a n d drive in a d d itional
stakes. Then d i g holes 6 i nc hes deeper than post depth a n d 2Y:>
to 3 times the post's d i a meter.
G Place a rock at the base of each hole a n d add 4 to 6
i nches of grave l . Place a post in a hole a n d shovel in concrete,
ta m p i n g it down with a broomstick or ca pped steel pipe Adj ust
the post p l u m b with a level . Conti n u e f i l l i n g until the concrete
extends 1 to 2 i nches a bove gro u n d level, a n d then slope it
away from the post to d i vert water,

BUTTED JOINT NOTCHED JOINT LAP JOINT

LINE
POSTS

o To align posts, first position two end or corner posts
so their faces are parallel, then p l u m b them a n d set them
permanently. Use spacer blocks a n d a mason.'s l i ne to locate
l i ne posts, spa c i n g each a block's t hickness from the l ine, After
setting posts in fresh concrete, you have a bout 20 m i n utes to
a l i gn them before concrete hardens. Let cure for two days,
o Brush on wood preservative where ra i l s and posts will
meet. Then fasten one end of each rail; check level with a hel per
and sec u re the other end. You can b utt them a ga i nst the post
and toe n a i l them, notch them in (cut notches before setting
posts), or l a p them over the sides or top of each post. If m a k i n g
l a p joi nts, plan t o span at least three posts f o r strengt h .

240 BUILDING P AT I O S , DECKS, AND FENCES


RAilS
e Cut siding boards to the same lengt h . Stretch and level a
line from post to post to m ark the bottom of the s i d i ng. Check
the first board for p l u m b, and then secure it to rails with
galvan ized nails t h ree ti mes as long as the board's th ickness.
Secure additional boards, checking a l i gn ment as you go.
H I L LS I D E F E N C E O PT I O NS
On a h illside, post-and-rail and solid fences with pickets
or grape stakes make good contour fences. Board, louver,
basketweave, and panel styles work better for stepped
fences, which are more d ifficult to build. For both kinds,
make sure that the bottoms of boards 6 inches or wider are
cut to follow the contour of the h i llside; otherwise, gaps will
remain.
PLANT I N G POSTS
PRESSURE-TREATED POST
V3 OF POST CONCRETE
IN GROUND ----'-;&"+,
Fill
When building an outdoor structure with posts, you'll likely use
concrete to keep the posts firmly anchored in the ground. Start
by d igging a hole that is 2 Y2 to 3 times the post diameter (for
example, 12 inches for a 4-by-4 post). For maximum stability,
plan to sink a full third of the post into the ground. Dig down
an additional 6 inches to allow for a layer of coarse gravel at
the bottom, which will help water drain away from the base of
the post.
For the strongest construction, undercut the posthole
slightly so the diameter at the bottom is slightly larger than at
the top. Use a section of post to tamp the bottom and sides of
the hole. After dumping gravel in the hole, insert the post, cen­
tering it in the hole. With a level, check that the post is exactly
vertical, and then temporarily brace it in position.
Finish up by mixing the concrete and pouring it in the hole.
Tamp with a metal rod to eliminate air bubbles. Slope the top
of the concrete so water will drain away. Before removing the
braces, allow the concrete to cure completely. A sheet of plastic
placed over the concrete will prevent it from drying out too fast.
MAKING FENCES 241
Building a Lattice Fence
Larr.ice screens and fences are ligbt, airy structures, com­
monly associated witb Victorian architecture. They can
serve several pmposes. A tightly woven lattice can screen
out an objectionable view while allowing air to flow into
the yard, wbile a widely spaced latticework can preserve a
view, serve as a traffic director, or provide a backdrop for
tall plantings. For details on how to build a lattice porch
skirt, see page 258.
Latticework usually consists of thin latb, crisscrossed
horizontally and vertically or diagonally, that's beld within
frame. Because of their light weight and open design, lat­
tice fences and screens can be built as tall as 8 feet without
requiring heavy framing members or bracing.
The screen sbown uses lath 1 1;, incbes wide and y"
inch thick. For every 8 feet of screen, you'll need nine
pieces 8 feet long and 17 pieces 65 1;, inches long. Tbe
2-by-4 posts posts are 8 feet long and set 2 feet in tbe
ground, 4 feet on center. The top rails are 8-foot-long
2 -by-4s nailed across tbree posts, and the bottom rails
are 2 -by-4s cut to length to butt between the posts.
Use galvanized nails three times as long as the thick­
ness of the lath.
LATH COVERING
E N D VIEW
END JOINTS
s!/,"
.1 I
:
I I
I I
, I I
242 BUILDING PAT I O S , DECKS, AND FENCES
You can buy p reassembled 4-by-8-foot lattice panels
for which you build a frame. Use posts about 6 1;, -feet long
and set tbem 2 feet deep, leaving 6 inches of space
between the ground and the bottom of the panel.
o Plot t h e fence line a n d lay out post locations. I nstall the
posts and join the rails to them. For a p a i nted finish, p a i nt the
frame a n d i n d ividual lath strips before j o i n i n g them. Cut lath to
length with a backsaw and m iter box for s q u a re, clean cuts.
a
• Attach the first vertical lath strip to the face of the f i rst
post. Space successive vertical strips 6Yz inches a p a rt, measur­
i n g a n d marking their locations on the top a n d bottom rai l s with
a combi nation square and a penci l . Attach each stri p with a
n a i l at top and bottom .
8 Attach the first horizontal lath strip a l o n g t h e face o f the
bottom rai l , overl a p p i n g the vertical stri ps. S pace successive
horizontal strips 6Yz i n c hes apart, measuring and marking their
locations on the posts. Use one nail at each end to attach the
strips to the posts. The last strip should end up d i rectly over the
face of the top ra i l , as shown at left.
G To protect lath ends, nail vertical strips over the joi nts.
VERTICAL LATH
Building a Wood and Wire Fence
Wire mesh has OLU11erous applications in fencing. Heavy
wire mesh provides security and offers support for plants
without completely blocking a \riew. Chain-link fencing is
popular for residential security.
Most wire and chain-link fences use metal posts and
are best if professionally instaUed. However, using the
insttUctions given here, you can construct a wood-and-wire
fence \\rith the aid of a strong helper. This fence consists of
2-by-4-inch welded-wire mesh attached to a wood frame of
4-by-4 posts and 2-by-4 rails.
Wire mesh comes in 50- and 1 00-foot rolls, and in a
number of widths 0 , 4, and 6 feet, for example); the width
of the wire corresponds to the height of the fence. The
fence shown here uses the 4-foot width, but you can adapt
the design [Q a 3- or 6-foot fence. You may also want to
substiwte a tighter mesh.
Fasten framing members with galvanized nails three
times as long as the thickness of the wood. Use Y.-inch gal­
vanized staples to hold the wire [Q the posts and rails.
o To prepare the frame, plot the fence line and post
locations. Cut 6-foot lengths of 4-by-4s for the posts and set

(f4'
them 18 inches deep, 6 feet on center. For the top rail, use 2-by-
STAPLE CUT END OVERLAPPING
SECTIONS 4s about 12 feet long (they'll span three posts); for the bottom
rails, cut 2-by-4s to butt between the posts, level them, and
toenail them i n place. Center a l-by-6 cap ra il over the top ra il
and nail it i n place.

�r , 8 Attach wire starting at one end of the fence and u n rolling

U, r {I
enough to cover two sections-about 1 2 feet. Align the top of
the wire with the u n derside of the l-by-6 cap rail. Tack the wire
_
to the first post, h a m meri ng staples at the top, center, and bot-
'-'"
tom. While a hel per stretches the wire taut,
i1"
l -BY-6 CA � RAIL
....
1E------ --
tack the wire to the next two posts at the
__
top, center, and bottom , checking often
;;;;==
;: =====-�"':""' __ --...-., to make sure that it stays in align­

ment. After the wire is tacked in place

over the first two sections, go back and
secure it to the posts and rails by driv­
ing staples every 6 i nches. Staple wire
i n place as shown (top left detai l).

o Repeat t h e whole process u ntil

the fence is covered. If you run out of
wire before reaching the end of the
fence, splice a new roll by overlapping
the meshes on a post. Cut the old
piece so that it ends at the edge of the
post (top center i nset). Lay the new
piece on top of it, overlapping two ver­
I tical wires if possible. Fasten both
I I I
pieces to the post with staples every 6 inches
: (top left i nset). Final ly, fasten kickboards to the
KICKBOARO

r � 4- BY-4 POST Ibottom of the fence. To give the fence a more finished
I
I appearance, cover the staples by nailing l -by-4 strips to the
I posts and l -by-2 strips to the top rail.

MAKING FENCES 243

Building Gates
MAKIN G A STURD Y E NTRY
A gate takes much more abuse than the rest of a fence, so
make sure it's solidly constructed and attached with hard­
ware that's sufficiently strong. The latches and hinges
should be rust and corrosion resistant.
For the most part, these procedures are quite simple,
but they do require precise workmanship. A few miscalcu­
lations in gatepost alignment or in measuring, cutting, and
assembling gate components will result in a gate that won't
open and close smoothly. The g� te must be built solidly
and attached firmly to the post with heavy-duty hinges, or
it will likely start to sag and bind soon after installation.
If you feel the required carpentry is beyond your abil­
ity, especiaUy if your design calls for detailed joinery work,
you might prefer to have this part of your fence erected by
a contractor or a carpenter with gate-building experience.
Inadequate hinges are the usual cause of gate failure.
It's better to use an overly strong hinge than one that's not
strong enough. Many packaged hinges include fasteners
that are too short for a heavy gate. Use screws that go as
far into the wood as possible, without coming out the
o Set 4-by-4 gateposts at least 3 feet deep in concrete and
gravel for extra sta b i lity. Add sloping concrete collars to d i rect
water away from the wood. (For more i nformation on i nsta l l i n g
posts, see p a g e 241.) Carefully p l u m b and vertica lly a l i g n posts.
244 BUILDING PAT I O S , DECKS, AND FENCES
other side. Unless you use heavy-duty hinges, it's best to
put three hinges on gates over 5 feet tall or more than 3
feet wide.
If a fence is used to confine small children or a pool,
use hinges that will automatically close the gate by
springs in the hinge mechanism.
B U I L D I N G A B A S I C WOOD GATE
The illustrations in this section show how to build a gate
with board siding, but you can use whatever type of sid­
ing complements your fence. To build a basic gate, you
must set and align the gateposts, build the frame, add
the siding, hang the gate, and attach the latch. You'll also
need to add a gate stop to keep the gate from swinging
past its closed position.
Unless you're using existing posts, your first job is to
set the gateposts. These must be set deeper into the
ground than ordinary fence posts because of the added
stress placed on them. The spacing of the posts deter­
mines the width of the gate.
2-8Y-4 FRAME
CARPENTER'S
SQUARE
G Build the frame of 2-by-4s, working on a table or other flat
surface. You can use either si mple butt joints or rabbet joints, as
shown. Join pieces with water-resistant glue and galvan ized
nails. Use a square to keep the fra me corners at right a ngles.
 Measure the distance between the gate posts at both
top and bottom. (If it varies greatly, you'll have to
straighten the posts, if possible, or else build a lopsided
gate to fir.l The gate frame width should allow at least Y,
to Y. inch benveen the latch post and the gate frame to
o To cut the diagonal brace, place the fra me on top of the
2-by-4 brace and mark sawing angles with a pencil. For a tight
fit, saw j ust outside the pencil m a rks. Glue a n d nail the brace
to the frame, and then nail on the siding of your choice.
e To fit the gate into place, prop it on wood blocks to hold it
in position. If it's too close to the posts to swing freely, trim the
latch side until the gate fits. Attach loose ends of the hinges to
the h inge post. Attach the latch with long screws or bolts.
give the gate room to swing freely. Allow a ;';-inch hinge
space between the frame and hinge post. The gate's height
depends on its design and on the height of the fence.
Measure and cut the lumber as precisely as you
can. Make sure you cut perfectly square corners when
G Attach the hinges firmly to the fra me. Drill screw holes
with a bit slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw. For
holding power, use long screws. If the gate is over 5 feet high
or 3 feet wide, use three h inges.
o Attach a vertical l -by- l , I-by-2, I-by-4, or 2-by-2 strip
of wood to the latch post. This stops the gate when it closes,
keepi n g it from swinging past its closed position and loosening
the hi nges. (The stop should run from top to bottom.)
BUILDING GATES 245
Install a self-closing latch by holding the latch in place on the
post and marking the screw holes. Remove the latch, drill pilot
holes, and fasten the latch. Insert the strike into the latch,
m a rk and drill holes, and screw the strike to the rail.
you saw, and check any ends that have been cut at the
l umberyard to make s ure they're square, too. As you
build, check corners carefully to see that they ' re
square.
R E PA I R I N G A SAGG I N G GATE
Many gates aren't overly strong to begin with and may
sag out of shape over time. A gate may start to sag long
before it begins binding: Correcting the problem early
may save major repairs later. Hinges, posts, or the gate
itself may be the cause of the problem. Here's how to
adjust hinges and latches, reset leaning gate posts, and
correct problems with the gate itself.
If your gate binds in wet weather but works properly
when it's dry, plane a little wood off the latch post or the
latch side of the gate frame to give at least a Y< -inch clear­
ance for expansion. Conversely, if the gate shrinks in dry
weather so that the latch will not catch, you will have to
either relocate the latch or replace it with one having a
longer reach. If the gate has sunk so much that latches are
246 BU ILDING P AT I D S , DECKS, AND FENCES
Thumb latch installation req u i res a vertical notch cut t h rough
the s i d i ng and fra me of the gate, but allows opening the latch
easily from either side.
no longer aligned, the simplest fix is to reset the hinges
and the latch .
Adjust a tilting post that's in concrete by digging
around it to a depth of several inches above its bottom.
Break up the concrete Witll a sledgehammer or a pick and
remove the pieces. Realign the post, and then shovel con­
crete i.nto the hole.
If the post is leaning over from the weight of the
gate, you can straighten and secure i t with a t urn­
buckle and heavy wire or threaded-steel rod running to
the bottom of another post along the fence line. This
straightening method also works on the latch-side post.
If the gate has a wood brace, square u p the frame
and renail the brace, frame, and siding. I f the gate still
sags, add a wire-and-turnbuckle assembly to pull the
gate back into place. The wire and t u rnbuckle should
run from the top of the hinge side to the bottom of the
latch side; this is opposite of the existing diagonal
wood brace.
I N STA L L I N G A T H U M B LATCH
Measure from the edge of the gate [0 where the hole
for the thumbpiece will go. The hole must be long
enough to enable the bar [0 clear the strike plate's
notch when the thumbpiece is raised. Mark the top
and bottom of the hole on the gate, drill holes at these
marks, and use a keyhole saw or compass saw [0 cut
out the wood between the holes.
Next, slip the thumbpiece through the hole, hold
the handle against the front of the fence, and mark the
screw holes in the handle on the fence. Remove the
handle, drill pilot holes for the screws, and then fasten
the handle in place.
N ow, position the bar and faceplate on the gate and
G a t e Latc h es
SELF·LATCHING HASP LATCH
SELF·LATCHING
WITH BENT STRIKE
mark the screw holes. Remove the pieces, driLl pilot holes,
and screw the bar and plate [0 the gate. If necessary, fas­
ten a wood block [0 the gate behind the pivoting end of
the bar so you'll have something to screw it [0.
Final ly, position the strike plate against the gate with
the bar in its notch and resting on the bot[Om of the
faceplate slot. Holding the plate in place, open the gate
and mark the screw holes. Remove the plate, drill pilot
holes, and fasten the plate [0 the gate.
Latches serve [0 keep a gate closed, but some types
can also hold the gate open. These drawings illustrate
the most commonly used gate hardware. More ornate
styles of latches can be special ordered or cus[Om made
by a metal worker.
TOP LATCH
THUMB LATCH
B U I LD I N G GATES 247
Laying a Pathway
WORKI N G W I T H STONE AND G RAVE L
Path features flagstones set i n Salmon Bay gravel. Edging plants (blue
fescue and petunias) create a graceful, soft edge.
Irregularly shaped flagstone is versatile, and can be laid in
several different ways. The most pleasing designs result
from carefully fitting and trimming the stones.
F i tt i n g a n d C utt i n g F l a g sto n e
o Lay the stone u nder its neighbor a n d
trace t h e cutting l i n e w i t h a pencil.
248 BUILOING P AT I O S , OECKS. AND
Flagstones can be laid in a bed of sand with sand­
packed or dry-mortared joints, in wet mortar over a con­
crete slab, or directly in stable soil. The last, obviously the
easiest, is an option only if the stones are large and thick
and not prone to breaking, and your soil is stable. Consult
the stone supplier before deciding on this option.
The sand-bed method with sand-packed joints pro­
vides a flexible surface that allows for easy repair should
tree roots or frosts cause the underlying surface to buckle;
you can also plant in the joints. The wet-mortar method
provides the best protection against frost heaves and weed
mvaSlOn.
FLAGSTO N E B A S I C S
Because most flagstones are irregularly shaped, they'll
probably need trimming before they are set. Mark out
the perimeter of the path or patio, then lay out the
stones, shifting them around until you achieve a pleasing
design that requires a minimum of cutting. If the stone
is brittle or thin, don't step on it until it's bedded
secu rely, or it may snap.
Chip off edges with a mason's hammer or a sharp
brick set. To make a major cut, follow tbe steps below.
Consider renting a portable saw with a masonry blade or a
portable grinder fitted with a 4 Y, ·incb diamond wheel. It's
often difficult to keep a stone from splitting or shattering
beyond the cut line, so have some extra stone on hand.
, G Score a Ys-i n c h -deep groove along e Place a wood scrap or a metal p i pe
the line with a brick set (or a % -inch­ under the stone so that the waste portion
deep groove if u s i n g a portable circular and scored l i ne overha n g it. Strike
saw or grinder). s harply along the l i ne.
fENCES
Layi n g a F l a g sto n e P a t h

o Install benderboard edging, then o Smooth a 2-inch layer of sand over o As you rake, moisten the sand with
put down la ndscape fabric to prevent the landscape fabric. Where soil freezes, a fine spray from the hose.
weeds. Secure fabric edges under edging. lay 4 i nches of gravel first.

o Firm the sand using a drum roller or e Add flagstones and wiggle them in o Fill cracks between stones with
a hand t a m per. Pass over the moist sand so they're firmly e m bedded. gravel, or-to hold flagstones-use
several times to pack it down. something smal ler, like decom posed
granite.

M a k i n g a G ra ve l P a t h w a y
Gravel-smooth river rock or more stable crushed
rock-makes a low-cost, fast-draining path that can com­
plement a wide variery of planting schemes. The first step
is to install wooden or masonry edgings to hold the loose
material in place. Then put down landscape fabric to dis­
courage weeds. Gravel surfaces tend to shift when walked
on, but tbe movement will be minimized if you use a com­
pacted base of crushed rock or sand.

LANDSCAPE
FABRIC EDGING

o Install edgings first, then l a ndscape o Rake the base material evenly over o Spread gravel at least 2 inches thick
fabric or plastic s heet i n g. Pour decom­ the path u ntil it is a u niform I-inch and rake it evenly over the base. Place
posed gra n ite or sand over the site, thickness. As you rake, wet the material stepping-stones on the base so that tops
taking care not to d i slodge the l i n er. with a fi ne spray. protrude slightly a bove the gravel.

LAYING A PATH WAY 249

C u t Sto n e B a s i c s
A small section of path
intentionally left unpaved is even-
tually reclaimed by nature.
C u t stone laid on a bed of
sand makes a d u rable
sturdy path or patio, pro­
vided the edgings are
strong, the stone is laid in
a tight pattern, and the
joints are kept tightly
packed with sand.
Occasional weeds in
the joints can be kept
down with a contact weed
killer, and landscape fab­
ric laid- beneath the sand
Q u ring the installation
process helps suppress
weeds. Sand-bedding the
stones provides a flexible
surface that allows for
easy repair should tree roots or frosts cause the under­
lying surface to buckle. Also, if a stone is damaged, it
can be replaced easily.
Secure the edge of the path or patio by installing a
2 -by-6 edging fl ush with the cut stone surface. For
invisible edgings, lay the stones around the edges of
the path or patio on a concrete pad.
To form the pad, build temporary forms around
the path or patio perimeter as if for a concrete foot­
ing. Make the forms the width of one stone, and make
the trench deep enough to allow for a 4 -inch concrete
bed (deeper where the ground freezes ) . Pour in con­
crete and, using a bladed screed, level it one stone's
thickness below the top of the forms, as shown at left.
Place the edging stones in the wet concrete and set
them with a rubber mallet. Remove the forms the next
day. After the concrete has cured, lay the sand bed for
the patio or path and the rest of the stone.

Lay i n g C ut Sto n e
To start, dig out the area to be paved to a 4-inch depth­
assuming 2 inches of sand and 2-inch-thick stones-and
install the edgings. If your soil drains poorly, dig deeper
and lay 4 i.nches of compacted gravel below the sand (6 to
8 inches if the ground freezes) .
I f you're layi.ng a thin cut stone, like a % -inch-thick
stone tile, use just 11 inch of sand; otherwise the stones
may tilt when stepped on. Also, buy large pieces of stone,
for example, 2 -foot squares, which will be less likely to tilt
than smaller pieces.
To help suppress weeds, lay landscape fabric on
the ground ( or between the sand and gravel if you're
laying gravel ) .
Spend tinle screed-ing (leveling) and tamping the moist
sand so that it is thoroughly compacted. The firmer the
base, the more stable the finished surface will be.

o G e ntly set the stones 8 When all the SAND

i n position. Vary stones are in

the size 01 the place, throw
joints between sand over them
stones to and sweep it
accom mod ate i nto the joints.
the variance Wet the a rea
i n the stone with a l i ght
cutting. Try not s pray so the
to slide the s a n d settles.
stones onto the Repeat the
sand-you'll displace sand lrom the process several
bed and tra p it between the stones. Lightly t a p each stone i nto t i m es until the
place with a rubber m allet. II a stone is twisted, realign it with s a n d is com pletely
a trowel blade. To check that it's level, place a c a rpenter's level settled a n d a bout 14 i nc h below the tops of
atop a piece of straight 2-by-4; if necessary, pry the stone out, the stone. To keep the stones tight, add sand to the joi nts
then add more sand or scoop some out. period ica l Iy.

250 B U I LDING P AT I O S , DECKS, AND FENCES

Layi n g Step p i n g-St o n e s
Stepping-stones are easy to lay. Arrange t11em different
ways-spaced generously to quicken people's pace through
a storage area or laid close together to slow people down.
Raise the stones above grade to show them off or set t11em
£lush in a lawn so the mower cruises over them.
Stepping-stones in gravel Raising stepping-stones
above surrounding gravel helps keep gravel from skittering
over the stones. L1 an existing path, excavate holes for the
stones and lay them as you wOLud in soil, by excavating
around the stone's shape I -inch deeper than its thickness.
If you're starting the path from scratch, excavate the area
to the needed depth and lay landscape fabric, followed by
sand. Then settle the stepping stones on the base before
spreading the gravel. Be sure to buy stepping-stones that
are at least 3 inches thick so they will protrude above the
minimum 2-inch layer of gravel.
A l -inch-thick sand base is sufficient in most situa­
tions. In cold-winter climates or poorly drained soils,
install 4 to 8 u1Ches of gravel below the sand. Be especially
careful to make a proper base if
the path is used regularly
throughout the year. You don't
want to be continually checking
stones and resettling any wob­
bling ones. On sloping sites, con­
sider setting the stones in mortar.
Large, heavy stepping-stones
don't get dislodged as easily as
small, thin ones. In fact, if the
stones are large and sturdy and
the soil is stable, stepping-stones
can sit directly on the soil.

Stepping-stones in lawn or soil

o lay out stepping-stones on top of the
soil in a pleasing l i ne. Arrange them so
that the spaces between them provide
comfortable, regular pace.
o Excavate a hole for the stone with a
straight-edged spade as deep as the stone's
thickness, of plus I inch.
8 Cut around each stone with a spade
(or a knife) to m a rk its shape, and then
move the stone to one side.
G Spread 1 inch of sand i n the hole,
and moisten it. Place the stone in the hole
and twist it until the stone is level and firm.
In flower or vegetable gardens
or woodland paths, lay stepping­
stones so that they sit 1 to 2
inches above grade. Water will
drain off, and su rrounding soil
and fallen leaves won't wash
onto them. They are also more
handsome set above grade.
Stepping-stone paths across
a lawn are often laid flush with
the soil so you can run the
mower right over the stones. If
you lay the stones raised, you'll
need to trim the grass around
each stone by hand.
Cut around each stone with
a straight-edged spade, peel off
the turf, and excavate to the full
depth of the stone plus 1 inch.
Spread 1 inch of sand in the
hole and settle the stone into the
sand until it's flat, firm, and
flush with the soil surface.

L AY I N G A PAT H W AY 251
IN THIS CHAPTE R
Building Arbors
A S U N S HELTER A N D V I N E S U PP O RT
Control the degree of shade by how you attach the top boards. Here,
2-by-2 lattice is spaced 2 inches apart. Because of the roof pitch, they
create more surface area to block sunlight than if the roof were flat.
An arbor can be freestanding or it can be attached to
the house with a ledger board. For posts, use extra­
high deck posts that rest in a concrete slab or are sunk
i n concrete-filled post holes.
Overhead beams support rafters. If the arbor is
attached to the house, the ledger takes the place of one
beam. You may want to leave rafters open so that you
can train a vine over them, or you can cover them with
any one of a number of materials-for example, lath,
wire, bamboo, shadecloth, lattice, tree or grape stakes,
woven reeds, or poles.
254 LANDSCAPE P R OJ ECTS
C H OO S I N G M AT E R I A L S
A good design takes i t s c u e from you r house architec­
tural style. Choose materials (and colors) that comple­
ment the style. If the arbor will attach to the house,
consider how i t will affect the view from indoors.
Beams that are too low m ay block a pleasing view.
Generally, the lowest beam should not be less than 6
feet 8 inches above the outdoor floor surface. A taller
arbor gives vines room to grow and lends a spacious
feel to the area. If you plan to place an outdoor dining
table under the arbor, allow at least 4 :0 feet of clear­
ance all around the table and provide additional room
for a barbecue area.
For the longest-lasting posts, beams, a n d rafters,
choose pressure-treated wood or natu rally decay­
resistant materials, such as redwood or cedar heart­
wood . You can use 4 - by-4 posts for most arbors u p to
12 feet tall. Use 2 -by-6 beams and rafters for spans up
to 6 feet; 2 - by-8s for spans up to 9 feel'.
LAY I N G R A FT E R S A N D I N STA L L I N G POSTS
Control the amount of shade your arbor casts with the
rafters. For example, running the rafters east-west pro­
vides midday shade. But if you plan on enjoying the
arbor more in the early morning and the later after­
noon , run the rafters north-south to maximize sun at
those times.
How you attach the top boards also affects shade.
If you stand 1 -by-2s or 1 -by-3 s on edge, they will give
little shade at midday when the sun is overhead, b u t
plenty o f shade in the morning and afternoon when the
sun is at an angle. Lay them flat, and t h e result will be
exactly the opposite.
I f you ' re adding a n arbor to a new deck, lengthen
the deck's posts, making them tall enough to support
the arbor. B u t when adding an arbor to an existing
deck, bolt the posts to the deck's substructure, placing
the posts directly above or adjacent to the deck posts.
If the arbor will span an existing patio, you can set
the posts in post holes outside the edge of the patio or
attach them to post anchors, as shown in step 1 on the
opposite page.
B u i l d i n g a n A r b or
The following steps give a general idea o f the building
sequence for a freestanding arbor. Also take a look at
the more detailed step-by-step instructions for build­
ing a deck ( p ages 234 and 2 3 5 ) . Constructing an arbor
is a similar process, from laying out the footings to
attaching the lath or other covering material, except
you'll probably spend a lot more time on a ladder.

o Cut the posts to 8 Check that

length and set them I n each post is verti­
metal anchors cal by plumbing it
embedded in with a level on
concrete foot­ two adjacent
ings or atop sides or by using
precast piers. a post level. With
Have a helper a hel per holding a
hold each post post in position, secure
upright and nail the each post with temporary braces
anchor to the post. nai led to wooden stakes that are driven i nto the ground.

., Position each
beam on top of the
posts; you'll need a
�_� o S e t and
space the
rafters on

I �11 �I�r('
II, • • •
helper. Check that the I - ; top of the

r
.

posts are still vertical beams.

and the beam is level
(adJust, I f necessary, with
shims), and then secure
� I' .
TOENAI D FRAMING
CONNECTORS
the bea m to the posts with
framing connectors or by toe n a i l i n g the bea m to the posts.

ATTAC H I N G AN A R B O R

Although most arbors employ the same basic components

e For shade, cover the rafters with l - by-2 or 2-by-2 lath.
Space the lath to achieve a specific amount of shade.
(posts, beams, rafters or joists, and some type of roofing),
there are many different ways to assemble them.
To attach a n a rbor to a house, install a ledger, much like
a deck ledger, usually a 2-by-4 or a 2-by-6. Connect it with lag
screws to wall studs, to second-story floor framing, or to the
roof. If your house wall is brick or stone, drill holes and install
expanding anchors to bolt the ledger in place.
Set rafters on top of the ledger or hang them from it with
anchors, joist hangers, or rafter hangers. If the roof will be
flat, square up rafter ends. (Sloped rafters, require angled
cuts at each end, plus a notch where rafters cross the beam.)

BUILDING ARBORS 255


Trellis-Building Basics
M A K I N G PRIVA C Y WITHOUT O V E RD O I N G I T
A trellis i s essentially a two-dimensional frame for plants,
made with vertical and horizontal elements fastened
together. The traditional model is a rectangular wooden
grid that gives plants a good foothold and allows air cir­
culation. But just about anything flat or round that
stands up to the elements, supports the weight of mature
plants, and can be nailed, screwed, or wired together can
serve as a lightweight trellis, especially if it will be sup­
ported by a wall or fence.
A freestanding trellis provides both a privacy screen
and a growing place for vines, and it can be moved
around the garden seasonally as needed.
I n many cases, you can convert a two-dimensional
trellis to a three-dimensional arbor simply by building
one or more m atching frames, placin g them parallel to
each other, and bridging them with horizontal braces
that create "walls " and a " roof. "
C H OO S I N G M AT E R I A L S
Most trellises a r e m a d e from milled wood: standard
dimension lumber, lattice and lath, moldings, dowels, or
256 LANDSCAPE PROJ ECTS
A lattice panel suspended i n a sturdy frame makes a simple trellis for a
raised-bed garden, next to an umbrella-shaded dining area.
tree stakes. Wood i s easy to work with. It's strong, and,
if chosen and prepped properly, it should stand up to
many years of water, wind, and summer heat.
The most durable structures are made from
naturally decay-resistant woods, such as redwood or
cedar heartwoods, or from pressure-treated l u mber.
Most trellis pieces are lightweight-typically 12- by
l 12 -inch lath, I -by-2s, 2-by-2s, and sometimes 2-by-4s.
Occasionally, larger freestanding frames are held up with
stout 4-by-4 posts or 6-inch diameter poles. You can let
redwood or cedar weather naturally, paint, or seal it with
an exterior finish. Pressure-treated lumber can be hard
to find in small sizes, and you'll probably want to paint
or stain it to conceal its typical greenish cast.
Most trellis joinery is simple. Butt joints, such as
those in the project at right, are the norm ; they are held
together by nails, screws, or wire, and sometimes with
waterproof glue, as well. For a more formal look, some
projects call for more intricate lap joints. You'll want
rust-resistant galvanized fasteners and hardware for
these outdoor projects.
M a k i n g a Fra m e d Tre l l i s

o Lay the uprights on a flat surface, face down, and lay out
crosspieces one at a time. This grid u ses %- by l Y:>-inch red­
wood pieces spaced on 8-inch centers. Before assembly, add a
dab of waterproof glue where pieces cross. Then nail or screw
each i ntersection. When the finished grid is fli pped over, the
nail or screw heads are out of sight.
o If a simple standard trellis is all you're after, stop here. But
if you'd l ike to add a frame, here's how. This frame has 2-by-2
verticals; the top piece was shaped from a 2-by-8. To be on the
safe side, wait until you have built the grid before sizing the
frame. Countersunk deck screws and glue hold sides to top piece.
Don't put the bottom rai l on just yet, however.

o Grid meets frame. Slide the trellis grid inside the three­
sided fra me, and then snug the bottom 2-by-2 ra i l up agai nst Completed trellis is
the grid's bottom edge. The grid is not as thick as the frame­ distinguished by its
for a nice design touch, l i ne the backs up, leaving a reveal at frame with chamfered
the front. Screws and glue hold the bottom rail in place; more edges, and the
screws, d riven from the outside in, keep the grid in place. detailed top.

TRELLIS-BUilDING BASICS 257


Building a Lattice Porch Skirt
ITS A G RO U N D · L EV E L TRELL I S
I n between cosmetic touch-ups and major renovations,
you can tackle small improvements to keep a porch look­
ing great. Here's how to hancUe one of the most common
of all porch repairs: building a new lattice skirt.
Keep in mind that these techniques can also be
adapted for replacing lattice on a deck, fence, gate, pri­
vacy screen, or trellis.
M A K I N G TH E F RA M E
First remove the old lattice with a flat pry bar. Measure
the openings between the columns or posts. The com­
pleted frames must be Y, inch narrower than the overall
width and 1 inch shorter than the height.
The porch shown here had five 26-inch-high open­
ings that ranged between Sy, and 9 Y, feet long. The lat­
tice panels are S feet long, so a vertical brace was
258 lANOSCAPE P ROJECTS
Hinged lattice panels dress up the skirt of this front porch while still
allowing good air circulation and easy access.
installed i n the middle of each frame to conceal the seam
between the two lattice pieces. If your porch has frames
that are less than S feet long, eliminate this center brace.
Make the four perimeter pieces of each frame out of
a pressure-treated l -by-6 trimmed down to 4 Y, inches;
use a pressure-treated I -by-4 for the center brace. When
buying the lumber, choose the straightest, driest boards
with the fewest knots. (If you can't find I -by pressure­
treated lumber, use I -by-6 heart redwood or cedar or ';-'; ­
by-6-inch pressure-treated decking.)
Cut the frame parts to length and assemble them
face down on a flat su rface. Strengthen the frame with
steel reinforcement hardware. At each corner j o i n t ,
3 Y, - i n ch flat cor­
i n s t a l l a 6 - inch m e n d i n g p l a t e and a
ner brace (see step 2, opposite page). Position the
hardware pieces about 1.. inch from the edge of the
frame a n d secure them with 1,-inch - long flathead
screws.
Connect the center brace to the frame with two
4-inch T-plates. Be sure the leg of the T-shaped plate is
centered on the I -byA brace. After the frames are
assembled, apply a coat of primer, followed by two coats
of gloss enamel trim paint to match your porch or deck.
ATTAC H I N G T H E LATT I C E
Shown is forest green, diagonal-panern plastic lanice.
Made of high-density polyethylene, it is resistant to
decay, splining, and m ildew. It comes in 4- by 8-foot
sheets in six colors and three basic panerns: square and
basket weave in addition to diagonal. \\7ood lanice is
widely avaiJable and also pain table so easier to match
with other colors.
First cut the lanice panels down to size using a
sabre or circular saw. Lay the frames face down and
attach the lattice to the frame with I - inch pan head
screws driven through washers ( step 4 ) . Be sure to drill
holes slightly larger than the screw shanks so that the
lattice can expand and contract without buckling. If a
frame has a center brace, secure the seam between the
lattice pieces with two rows of screws.
I N STA L L I N G T H E PA N E LS
Hang the framed lattice panels from the porch with a 3 -
o r -I-inch strap or T-hinges. Two hinges are sufficient for a
panel 8 feet or shorter, but use three hinges on one longer
than 8 feet. Shown (step 6) are 3 - inch galvanized T-hinges.
Screw the hinges to the frames first, and then set the
panels in the openings under the porch. Slip a pry bar
under the panel and raise it up tight against the porch
fascia. Use a drill/driver to screw the hinge to the porch.
Check to make sure the panel swings up and down
smoothly. If it drags on the ground, use a shovel or rake
to remove some dirt from in front of the panel. If there's
a large, uneven gap beneath the panel, add some soil,
and then smooth it out to create a consistent space
between the panel and ground.

o Remove the old lattice skirt with a G Hold together each corner joint of 8 Use two T-plates to secure the I-by-
pry bar. If necessary, first cut it i nto the fra me with a 6-i nch mend ing p late 4 center center brace to the fra me.
pieces with a rec i procating saw. and flat corner brace. Fasten the plates with 14 -inch screws.

o Secure the seam between two lat­ e Screw the plastic lattice to the o To hang the lattice panel, screw the
tice panels with panhead screws that are back of the frames after dri l l i n g h inge to the porch fascia; then lift and
driven through washers. oversized clearance holes. attach the panels to the h i nges.

BUILDING A LATT I C E PORCH SKIRT 259

Making a Window Box
IT'LL BE T H E RIGHT S I ZE A N D STYLE F O R Y O U R H O U S E
When you want herbs and flowers close a t hand, try
building a window box. One big advantage to making a
window box instead of buying one is that you get exactly
the right size, and you can stain or paint i t to match your
house or trim.
Designers recommend that a window box be about
HAN G I N G A W I N DOW B OX
Some houses may have window s i l l s wide enough to accommo­
date flower boxes. If so, set the box on spacers so water can
d rain freely from the bottom . More often, a window box m ust be
attached d i rectly to the side of the house or held in place by w i re
attached to the window casing.
A pair of sturdy metal brackets should be enough to su pport
most wi ndow boxes. On houses s ided with wood, attach the
brackets to the house either with galvanized or stai nless steel
wood screws. For heavy boxes or when the siding is thin, drive
screws 1 \-2 inches into studs beneath the sheathing. For masonry
walls, wedge or sleeve anchors will safely support the weight of
the box. When installing a window box, however, be careful that it
doesn't trap water against the house. A wood box in d i rect con­
tact with wood siding i s l i kely to encourage rot.
260 LANDSCAPE PRDJECTS
the same width as the window where it will be installed,
including trim. To allow enough room for plant roots,
make the box about 8 inches deep (slightly less for
short-lived annuals) and 8 inches wide. To be sure the
box has well-drained soil, install drain holes in the bot­
tom of the box.
B U I L D I N G A W I N DO W BOX
The box shown here is 32 inches long, 8 inches high,
and about 8 inches deep. I t is made from a single
1 0-foot, l -by- l O board of clear white pine. Although
you pay a premium for clear pine, it's a pleasure not to
deal with knots that can bleed through paint finishes.
Boxes can be plain or elaborate, but remember that
they'll mostly be hidden when full of plants. This box
has only five pieces of wood: two sides, two ends and
a bottom. The ends of the outer side are tapered at a
1 0 ° angle from 7 inches at the bottom to 8 YI6 inches at
the top. The dimensions aren't critical. The taper makes
the finished box a little more interesting to look at.
After the pieces have been cut, they are assembled
with an exterior-grade glue and l Y, -inch trinl-head
Vinyl-sided houses present a special problem. The siding
needs to be free to move slightly with changes in tem perature.
When instal l ing brackets to the wall, enlarge the screw hole
slightly, allowing YS-inch clearance between the siding and the
screw, and seal the gap with s i l icone ca u l k to keep water out.
Instead of s n ugging the bracket tightly to the wall, a l low a space
of a bout li S-inch so the siding can move. Another method of
attachment is to set the back edge of the window box on the s i l l
and secure it with steel c a b l e attached to t h e window casing. A
third option is to attach the box to the front edge of the s i l l with
T-shaped galvanized brackets. The long edge of the bracket is
screwed to the back of the box, and the short leg is attached to
the sill.
screws. The box could just as easily be nailed together
with galvanized box or finish nails or assembled with
galvanized, stainless steel, or brass screws. When set
below the s u rface, however, trim heads are easy to con­
ceal with exterior puny. Choose a good-quality puny,
such as a two-part polyester filler that holds up well
outdoors.
One trick to making the box fit together well is to
make sure that edges are square and corners are 90°.
If you want the box to last more than a couple of
years, finishing it inside and out is crucial. A top-quality
primer and two coats of 1 00 percent acrylic latex paint on
the outside and a dear wood preservative on the inside
protect this one. And don't forget the drain holes in the
bottom. This one has three pairs of V, -inch holes spaced
along its length.

o Tapering the fronts of the end
pieces ma kes the box more i nteresting.
Mark the cut with a straightedge, then
cut along the l i ne. If necessary, smooth
the cut with a block plane.
f) Predrill to avoid splits. Make the e Glue and screw the pieces together.
hole i n the top piece of wood the same Screw heads should be set sl ightly below
size as or slightly larger than the the surface of the wood .
screw shank.

o Fill screw countersinks with a n o U s e top-quality primer and paint to protect wood from the elements. A finish coat
exterior-grade filler. After t h e filler h a s of 1 0 0 percent acrylic latex is more d urable than oil-based paint.
cured, s a n d it flush.

MAKING A WINDOW BOX 261

 Stones covering the edge of the finished preformed pond give it a natural
appearance. Low-growing perennials and grasses complete the scene.

Making a Garden Pond

U S E A RIG I D L IN E R A N D S T O N E BORDER
A d d a pond t o your garden in a d a y or less by starting
with a preformed plastic shell from Lowe's. Installing
one is easy, but it does require gloves, a good shovel, and
a strong back. You dig a hole, drop in the shell, and fill
it with water and plants. Edged with stones and low­
growing plants, the pond becomes graceful and inviting.
Preformed pond shells come in a variety of shapes,
sizes, and depths. Some have smooth, vertical sides
(which discourage raccoons ) ; others have textured walls.
Some have shelves around the sides to hold containers of
water plants. Despite their bulk, most shells are light­
weight, made of a heavy-duty UV-stabilized polyethyl­
ene. Shapes range from tidy ovals to free-form; volume
ranges from about 30 gallons to several hundred. Costs
increase with size. The pond shown here is available in
42- and 85-gallon sizes.
To help keep the pond clean, you'll need a p u m p .
Submersible models a r e fine for a s m a l l p o n d like
this one. Consider a pump powered by a small photo­
voltaic collector, but i t runs only when sunlight hits the
collector. Position edging stones around the pond so that they hide the lip from
Water plants also help keep ponds clean. As a rule, view. Cantilever them beyond the lip of the shell, but keep most of their
they should cover about two-thirds of the water's surface. weight on surrounding soil, not on the lip.

262 LANOSCAPE PROJECTS

I n sta l l i n g a R i g i d L i n e r

o Select the site; trace the shell. Open areas are better than
a reas beneath trees whose leaves or need les will build up
debris on the pond's bottom. To install a pond in a lawn, remove
the sad and keep it moist and protected in a shady area so you
can reuse it later. Set the pond shell on the cleared, level site, G Remove the pond shell and trace the soil outl ine with sand
adjusting it to face the d i rection you want. With a yardstick (as shown) or use a hose or length of rope.
vertica l ly against the outside edge, trace around the pond shell
to outl ine it i n the soi l .

o D i g t h e hole inside the outline. M a k e the h o l e 2 i nches
deeper and wider than the shell to accommodate a layer of
sand. With a carpenter's level, m a ke sure the bottom of the
hole is flat. Remove protruding stones or roots, then cover the
bottom with 2 inches of packed damp sand. Recheck flatness
with a level.
o Place the pond shell in the hole slightly h igher than the
surrounding ground, with the top lip level. (To check, place the
level to span the pond.) Adjust the shell as necessary. Start
filling the pond from a slow-running hose. Backfill around the
shell with moist sand, ta mping as you go. Period ica l ly recheck
that the top is level. Continue u ntil pond and hole are filled;
backfil l to slope soil away from the pond's edges.

MAKING A GARDEN POND 263

Fountains and Falls
ADD THE S O U N D OF M O V I N G WATE R TO Y O U R G A R D E N
Water i n motion, whether spiLling gently, gurgling, o r
rumbling energetically, i s always enchanting. Both foun­
tains and waterfalls help bring falling water's sparkle and
the musical sounds into the garden.
Fountains are of two types: the kind that spray
water up ( in different parrerns) and the kind that cas­
cade water down ( for example, from a statue or chute ) .
In t h e first case, water sprays up from a nozzle screwed
onto a pump. In the second, \� ater cascades down plas­
tic rubing running up from an outlet on the pump and
to the top of the fo untain. To create a waterfall, aim
the tube at a pile of tocks, configured so that the water
runs down them and back into the pool.
Fountains and waterfalls require a pump, which is
hidden in the bottom of the pond or in a reservoir that's
out of sight. An electrical cable, which can be buried in
a shallow trench, extends from the submerged pump to a
ground-fault interrupt (GFI ) outlet. Have an electrician
install a GFI outlet, if necessary, and make sure you buy
a pump with a cable long enough to reach from the bot­
tom of the pond or water reservoir to the outlet. Where
the cable crosses the garden, keep it safe from the blade
of a spade or any other sharp object by running it
through a l -inch PVC pipe and b urying the pipe in the
ground.

A Po n d i n a Pot
Water features don't have t o b e expensive. The simple a drain hole in the bottom. Coat the inside of the pot
one shown below cost less than $400 and took a week­ with water sealer to keep the concrete from absorbing
end to make. Start by purchasing a concrete planter with water. This will prevent cracking during a freeze.

o Set a small submersible pump i n
t h e pla nter a n d r u n t h e cord through the
d ra i n hole. Concea l and protect the cord
by running it through %-inch plastic
conduit to a grounded outlet.
o Set the pump at the desired height, o Fill with water, and then plug in the
, level the planter, a n d use a cork to p l u g cord . S urround the fou nta i n with flowers
t h e d r a i n hole and hold the cord i n place. and enjoy.
Seal both sides of the hole with s i l icone.

264 LANDSCAPE PROJECTS

A Wa l l Fo u n t a i n
This founrain decorares a dull
wall and provides rhe soorhing
sounds of splashing warer. Many
kirs are available, or you can
make your own wirh any spour
and warer rrough.
Stone masks and lion heads
are popular spours, bur a sim­
ple metal or bamboo spour
may be easier to work wirh.
Any kind of bowl or basin
will do for a rrough. If
it's large, it will catch
mosr of the founrain
warer, and you won't
need to refill it as ofren
when water evaporares
in hot or windy
weather.
The fountain's mechan-
ics are simple: Water rises through
flexible tubing from a pump in the trough up to the
spout and spills back down to the trough. If you're
building the wall that the founrain is to be mounred on,
you can install the water delivery pipe out of site behind
the wall. For an existing wall, you can hide rhe pipe by
planting a vine around the fountain or placing a tall
water plant in the trough.
The pump's electrical cable needs to be plugged into a
nearby GFI outlet. The simplest arrang�ment is to take the
cable out over the rim of the trough, hiding it in foliage.
To make a fountain like the one shown here, follow
these steps:
o Attach the mask to the wall below eye level with screws
and expanding anchors. If you're taking the water del ivery pipe
u p the face of the wall, mount the mask a l ittle away from the
wall on wood spacer blocks to a llow room for the pipe to pass
behind it.
8 Place the pump in the reservoi r on top of a clean brick; this
way, silt that collects on the reservoir bottom won't enter the
pump. Attach the water p i pe to the pump and take it up behind
the mask i nto the spout. Where the pipe enters the mask, attach
a right-angle con nector so the p i pe doesn't kink.
o F i l l t h e trough with water, plug the electrical cable into the
GFI outlet, and adjust the water flow so that the water returns
reliably to the reservoir. Watch the water level in the trough on
windy days; it mustn't fall below the pump's water i ntake.

A Pe b b l e Fou n t a i n
In a pebble fountain, water rises from a reservoir through
a fountainhead nozzle on a pump, spi l l s over a tray of
pebbles, and trickles back down to the res ervo ir.

o Make the reservoir with a black liner, a preformed
shell, or any watertight conta i ner at least 15 i nches deep. If
the reservoi r is s m a l l , you'll need to add water freq uently
during hot or windy weather so the water level never drops
below the p u m p. In a windy site, choose a low, bubbling foun­
tai n head so the water doesn't blow away.
8 Dig a hole for the reservoir and set it in place. Place the
pump on a clean brick so silt that collects on the reservoi r
bottom won't enter t h e p u m p . F i t a rigid extension p i pe t o the
p u m p outlet; screw the fou nta i n head to the top of the pi pe.
The fou ntainhead should just clear the top of the reservoi r.
o Cut a piece of strong wire mesh to fit over the reservoir
and hold the stones in place. Overla p the surrounding area by
at least 6 inches. If necessary, cut a hole in the mesh to m a ke
room for the
founta i nhead.
Position the mesh
over the reservoir, and
then cut a square out of
the mesh, big enough to put your
hand through comfortably, so that you can reach the pump to
adjust the water flow or clear the filter screen. Cover the hole
with a larger square of mesh that won't sag i nto the hole after
it's covered with pebbles.
o Fill the reservoir. Place a few large pebbles on the edges
to hold it in place and cover the rest. Mark the access to the
p u m p with a few uniquely colored or glass pebbles. Plug in the
p u m p, check the jet spray, and adjust, if necessary, to ensure
that the spray drips back i nto the reservoir.

FOUNTAINS ANO FAllS 265


Building Raised Beds
MAK[ CARDEN I N G EASIER, N EATE R , AN D MORE E F F I C I E N T
A raised bed i s just what the name implies: a planting
bed elevated 8 to 12 inches above soil level. In its most
basic fo rm, it's simply a raised plateau of soil. More
often, though, you'll encounter raised beds surrounded
by a low wall of wood (such as 2-by lumber or railroad
ties), concrete, brick, or stone.
Although making a raised bed takes a bit of effort,
the bed gives 3 number of advantages. If you have prob­
lem soil-impenetrable clay, nutrient-deficient sand, a soil
that's highly acid or alkaline or one that's compacted
from constru ction-a raised bed filled with good soil may
be your best shot at raising healthy plants. Particularly
where drainage is slow to nonexistent, a wised bed is the
easiest way to provide a well-drained root run. And even
if your garden soil is good enough for what you want to
grow, a raised bed m3Y be worth installing. It will help
you prepare a " powerhouse" plot for top production, a
defined area where you can add topsoil, amendments,
and fertilizer to make the finest possible soil.
In cold-winter regions, soil in raised beds warms
earlier than that in regular garden plots, allowing you to
plant and harvest earlier, as well. When it comes time
pick flowers or veggies, the elevated soil level makes the
job a bit simpler. And the fact that plants and soil are
contained makes the entire operation neat and tidy:
Water, fertilizer, and soil remain within the bed.
266 LANDSCAPE PROJECTS
Herbs thrive in two-tiered raised bed_ Blooming marigolds surround basil,
fennel, mint, and chives in the bed.
\'lfhen planning a raised bed, choose the site care­
fully. Most vegetable, flower, and herb plants are sun lov­
ing, so the bed should receive at least 6 hours of sun
daily. Select a spot that has good air circulation but isn't
exposed to frequent winds. Be sure, too, to locate it at
some distance from trees and large shrubs; if they're too
close, their roots will infiltrate the soil of the bed . Also
make sure that a hose bibb or other water source is near
enough to make watering easy.
To the extent that you can, loosen up the soil where
S C R EE N I N G O UT G O P H E R S
If pocket gophers or ground squirrels are a problem i n your
area, consider a screen-bottomed bed that will prevent them
from getting to your plants. Make a wooden framework as
shown on the facing page, and then staple 1/1-inch-mesh
hardware cloth to the bottom before setting the frame into
the soil. Be aware that you must dig quite carefully in screen­
to bottomed beds, and, of course, you can't dig below the depth of
the bed. For this reason, it's best to make these beds a bit
deeper-up to j l/1 feet.
the raised bed will be. This way, you'll be able to mix the
existing soil with whatever you use to fill the bed, creating
some transition between d1e native soil and that of the bed.
And of course, loosening the soil below the bed will make
it easier for roots ro penetrate as deeply as possible.
Now you're ready to build the bed. No matter what
material you use as a border, the base should extend
about 2 inches below soil level. If you construct a wood
frame like the one below, you can assemble it off-site and
move it into place. Dimensions are important: you
should be able to reach into the bed's center easily from
its long sides.
With the border in place, you can fill the bed with
additional soil. If your soil is good, you may just add soil
from somewhere else in the garden. Another option is to
use purchased topsoil. (Be aware, though, tbat this prod­
uct varies gready, depending on the supplier. Some top­
soils are raw dirt, while otbers are mixtures of soil and
organic amendments.) Fill the bed in stages: Add several
inches of new soil and dig it into the naJive soil beneath,
and then add several more inches and dig it into the pre­
viously dug soil.
Spread organic amendments over the soil and sprin­
kJe on fertilizer if needed, digging these in thoroughly.
The settled level of tbe finished bed should be about 2
inches below the top edge of the border.

o Cut 2-by-6 lumber and 4-by-4 end­ 8 Atta c h boards for one end, then set o Set the fully assembled bed in
and m i dposts to length. With a n electric that section u pright. Nail or screw on place. Before i nsta l ling it, loosen the soil
drill make pi lot holes for n a i l s or screws. boards for the sides, being sure they and dig shal low trenches for recessing
cover the butt ends of end boards. the sides.

o Use a shovel to dig and fill to adjust o After bed is in place and leveled, use o For a finished appearance, cap the

bed's position. Use a level to ensure that a sledgeha m mer to drive a Yz-inch steel bed with 2-by-6 finished l u m ber. Miter
the finished bed is properly a l igned. stake up against each side and end to the corners and use a n electric drill to
a nchor the bed in place. m ake pilot holes for nails or screws.

BUILDING RAISED BEDS 267

Compost Bins
T H RE E TIME-TESTE D SYSTEMS
There are numerous references to compost in this book,
and for good reason. It's the secret ingredient of many of
the best gardens. Using it to amend soil prior to planting
or spreading it around established plants as a mulch is
one of the best things you can do for plants. Compost is
T h ree- B i n C o m poster
This classic three-sectioned container allows you to
always have "fully cooked" compost on hand. The bin
on the left holds new material; the one in the center con­
tains partly decomposed material; and the bin on the
o Dig eight post holes, about 3 feet deep, in two rows. The
holes should be a bout 3 feet apart. Shovel a couple of i nches of
gravel in each hole a n d set a 6-foot-long post in each hole. Use
a level to check each post for plumb and brace the posts tem­
pora rily. Mix and pour concrete into the holes. Allow a day for
the concrete to set.
G Have your lumberyard rip-cut pieces of l -by lumber to
1 � inches wide. (Or rip it yourself with a table saw or rad i a l-
268 LANDSCAPE PROJECTS
also the most practical way t o recycle garden and kitchen
waste. You can read more about mulching with compost
on pages 3 00 and 3 0 1 , and more about making it on
pages 3 93 through 3 95 . But on these pages is how to
make three of our favorite compost bins.
right holds finished compost. Material is forked from bin
to bin as composting progresses. Side boards are spaced
for air penetration and slide out for easy turning and
removal of compost.
arm saw.) Cut the pieces so they're long enough to reac h from
the top of a post to the grou n d . Attach them to the posts, a s
s hown, b y d ri l l i n g pilot holes a n d driving 1 18 -inch deck
screws. There should be a I-inch g a p between t h e I-by pieces.
o Cut pieces of l -by-6 to fit loosely between the posts, so
you can easily slide them i n a n d o ut. Attach a l-by-2 s pa ce r
to the bottoms o f the l - by-6s to g i ve the com post breath i n g
room.
Single B i n with
R e m ov a b l e Fra m e
A compost maker need not be com­
plicated; all you really need is a con­
tainer with plenty of ventilation and a
removable side so that you can eas­
ily mix the ingredients with a
spading fork.
Construct four frames out
of 2-by-2s, all the same size. Cut and
St a c ka b l e C o m post B i n s
This design is simply five 36-inch-square boxes without
bottoms. Set one box on the ground, perhaps with
another box stacked on lOp, and start the com post piJe
by filling it. Stack on the other sections as you add
more compostable material. You'U have a load of fin­
ished compost in about six weeks.
o Saw ten l -by-6s i nto 36-i nch lengths and ten to 34Y2-inch
lengths; saw twenty 2-by-2s into 6-i nch lengths. Lay each of
34Y2-inch boards over two 2-by-2s, with one 2-by-2 flush with
each end but offset from the top edge by I inch. Drive two
screws through the I -by-6s i nto each 2-by-2.
attach a piece of chicken wire or hard­
ware cloth to the inside of each frame.
Fasten three of the frames together in
overlapping fa�hion, as shown.
Elsten the remaini.ng frame with
eyehook latches so that it can be
easily removed. You can build a floor
for this bin or simply rest the bin on the
ground.
36-INCH
l -BY-6
�---
�
f) Place one 34 Y2-inch board u pside down with 2-by-2s
extending upward. Place a 36-inch board against one end, flush
with the top, bottom, and outside edge. Attach with two wood­
screws through the I-by-6 into the 2-by-2. Add a second 34-inch
board at the other end of 36-inch board. Complete the section
with other 36-inch board, making a 36-inch square. Repeat the
process for each of the remaining four sections. Apply two coats
of wood sealer.
COMPOST BINS 269
 Climbing up or skidding down, a gang of kids turns this simple
structure into a perpetual-motion machine.

Building a Backyard Gym

TWO KID FAVORITES COMB I N E : S A N D B O X A N D S L I D E
This modest gym takes u p I n the plan, each square
little space b u t provides a equals approximately 2
variety of activities for young feet, and the dimensions
ones. Not only can they slide, apply to the pictured
climb, and play in the sand­ gym. Your plan will vary
box, but the area below the if you use a manufac­
platform makes an ideal tured slide, for instance,
hideout. or you may custom ize
At Lowe's, you'll find an the gym in other ways.
array of gym components, Once your own plan is
including slides (plastic or established, carefully
metal) , ladders, rope swings, L. plot out post placement
monkey bars, and net ladders. and mark each one's
These parts can be bought separately or in kits that location with a stake
save money and come with complete instructions. before digging.

270 lANOSCAPE PROJECTS

o Determine the positions of all the posts (see the dia­ e For the sandbox,
gra m , facing page). Check that everything is sq uare. Dig attach J-by-8 sides to
post holes at least 3 feet deep. Set the posts in the holes, each post with three
brace them so that they are p l u m b, and check again that 3-inch deck screws.
they a re square i n relation to each other. Pour concrete M iter-cut 2-by-6s
into the holes and a llow the concrete to set for a couple for the top tri m .
of days. Use a level to m ark and cut the posts to Attach the s l i d e to
height; you may want to add a decorative post cap or the platform, fol­
decorate the posts tops yourself with bevel cuts. lowing the manu­
facturer's instruc­
G To build the platform, install the front and rear tions.
joists at the correct height for the slide you have
chosen, using %-by 3 Y2-inch lag screws with o Attach 2-by-6
washers. Add the rem aining joists and attach horizontal ra i l s
them with 3-inch deck screws. Cut 2-by-6 about 3 feet above
deck boards to fit and anchor them with the platform. Taper­
two 3-inch deck screws driven i nto each cut 2-by-4s to serve
joist. as rai l ing u prights.
Space them evenly,
o Set one ramp support a bout 5 inches apart,
against the platform at and attach them with 3-
the desired a ngle, inch screws.
scribe the angle
onto the face of a o For the hanging bar, have a
4-by-4 ra m p sup­ I - i nch galvan ized pipe cut to length.
port, a n d cut a long Anchor it at the desired height (depend­
this line. Cut a m atch ing ing on the size of your c h i l d ren) with a
angle i n the other 4-by-4 ra m p sup- pipe fla nge at either end.
port. Cut twelve or so 2-by-6 ra m p boa rds to
46Y2 i nches a n d attach them from behind with %-by- o S a n d all t h e edges smooth and a pply a coat
3 Y2-inch lag screws. Screw the ra m p boards to the supports, of sealer to a l l surfaces. Fill the sand box with
and then attach t h ree 2-by-6 ra m p cleats for easy cli mbing. playground-grade sand.

4-BY-4 POST
2-BY-4 RAILING CAP
2-BY-6 RAMP
2-BY-6 RAILS CLEATS

2-BY-6
RAMP
2-BY-4 RAILING BOARDS
UPRIGHTS

4-BY-4 RAMP
G SUPPORTS

BUILDING A BACKYARD GYM 27 1

Furnishing the Landscape
EVERY OUTDOOR ROOM N E E D S F UR N I T U RE
Furniture takes up a lot of space in the garden. I t 's
easy to underestimate j ust how much space, so before
you buy, get the dimensions of the furniture p i eces and
mark them out on your patio or garden floor with con­
struction chalk. Visualize these marks as solid objects
and leave plenty of space for people to walk around
them. Factor i n room for plants, for serving or side
tables, or for a barbecue, i f you're planning one. For
handy guidelines about how n;uch space to allow for a
dining table, see page 89.
To save space, build i n seating wherever you can .
For example, p u t benches into a deck rail, cap a low
wall or raised bed with planks wide enough to sit or
place food trays on, and make garden steps wide
enough for seating. A cheap folding table i s useful if
274 FINISHING TOUCHES
you have n o space for a permanent table; store i t i n the
garage and p u t a pretty cloth over it when you need it
for the garden.
F U R N I T U R E M AT E R I A LS
With so many styles available, the choice of garden furni­
ture can bewilder even decisive shoppers. One good way
to narrow the field is to choose one of a range of materials.
LEFT: Elegant wicker furniture embellishes a simple patio.
TOP RIGHT: A Victorian-style cast-iron bench may seem old-fashioned,
but the blue color reveals its contemporary aspirations. Accents include
p otted white nicotiana and silvery licorice plant.
BOTTOM RIGHT: A stylish metal rocking chair gleams against a more
traditional setting.
Metal If you like heavy metal but
your budget doesn't, you can buy
cast aluminum or steel that looks
like wrought iron. Also consider
enameled or powder-coated
aluminum-frame furniture. It
won't rust, and it's durable and
lightweight.

Synthetics Wicker and rattan made of

natural fibers are less durable than other
Matching table and chair
materials and are better suited to shel­
are rolled steel. Perforations
tered patios or enclosed porches. Synthetic prevent water from pooling. Nyatoh wood
wicker looks and feels like the real thing,
steamer chair
but it's made of cellulose, resin, or latex­ folds for storage.
coated fibers and is undaunted by
weather. The quality, texture, and color of
plastic or resin furniture are improving,
and tables and chairs made from these
materials are colorful and inexpensive
outdoor furnishings.

Wood Teak and redwood are favored

for their beauty, strength, and resistance
to insects and rot. Other woods include
jarrah, which performs and weathers like
Nyatoh wood lutyens bench
teak; Honduran cedar, the pink-brown offers formal look.
wood with the distinctive "cigar-box"
smell; and nyatoh, a tight-grained, cher­
rylike wood from Indonesia. Willow is
Ornate and durable
less durable, but a yearly application of cast iron and oak chair
water sealer will extend its life. As
woods weather, they turn gray unless
you seal them with marine varnish or
semitransparent stain. Purchase only
plantation-grown or recycled wood to
avoid depleting natural supplies.

PROTECTI NG WOOD
F U R N I TU R E ..:: :::=. Weatherproof wicker is more practical
Water and sunlight are your furni­
E;,. � for outdoors than traditional wicker.
ture's worst enemies. Penetrating
oils, varnishes, and paints are the Teak steamer chair
finishes most often chosen to pre­ folds for storage.
vent water damage. Paint offers the
most protection from the sun.
Generally, the higher the gloss, the
greater the sun protection. Some • I,.
varnishes, such as spar varnish, con­ Folding
tain U V filters that protect wood bistro chair Classic chaise longue sports
from the sun. adjustable backrest.

FURNISHING THE LANOSCAPE 275

 Furniture built from decay-resistant woods, such as
redwood or cedar heartwood, may be left unfinished.
They turn gray over time but require little maintenance
other than scrubbing away dirt and mildew. Exposure
can cause these woods to crack, however. To protect
tllem and prevent graying and mildew, use a clear
water repellent with U V protectors and a mildewcide.
I f you prefer the natural gray color, use a product with
no UV protectors.
The most common choices in finishes are listed
below along with their advantages and disadvantages.
If you choose a less decay-resistant wood, finishing
is vital to protect and beautify it. Finishing also keeps
insects from eating your furniture, and a colored top­
coat conceals mismatched grain. Teak, for example,
requires only periodic cleaning. Use a solution of dish
soap with a small amount of bleach to clean away dirt.
Restore (or maintain) like-new teak color with a sealer
product make specifically for teak.

N I N E WAYS TO P R OTECT W O O D

TYPE ADVANTAGES DISADVANTAGES GENERAL TRAITS

CLEAR
Penetrating resin Easiest to apply. Gives a natural, Provides little surface Soaks into wood pores and darkens
no-finish look. protection. the wood grain.

Polyurethane Simple to brush on. It's tough Slow-drying. You can't coat Protects with a thick coating and
and resistant to alcohol, heat, other finishes with it. enhances the grain with a slight
and water. darkening effect.

Varnish Seals and protects with four or Tends to yellow with age. Shaking it creates bubbles, which
five coats. may mar the finish.

STAINS
Pigmented oil stain Simple to wipe on and off with a Often obscures pores and Colors don't fade or bleed and are
rag. Useful for changing and grain. available ready"mixed in a wide
matching wood colors. range of hues.

Penetrating oil stain Similar to a penetrating resin, but Penetrates irregularly on Soaks into wood; colors by means of
with color; pores and grains show. softwoods and plywoods; not dyes, not pigments.
good for matching colors.

Water-based stain Bright, clear, and permanent. Thins Water swells the fibers, so you Comes in a powdered-mix form,
easily, is odor free, and cleans up need to resand; slow drying; dyeing the wood.
with water. hard to apply.
PAINTS
Oil-based enamel Durable, washable; good adhesion Slow-drying. All gloss, semigloss, and flat colors
and coverage. totally conceal the grain.

latex enamel Thinned and cleaned with water; Slightly less coverage than All semigloss and flat colors are
is quick-drying. oil-based. available. Completely conceals grain.

CLEAR WATER Do not color wood; sea I a nd protect Require yearly reapplication; Also known as water sealers; cause
REPELLENTS with one coat. cause wood to darken slightly. water to bead on surface of wood.

276 FINISHING TOUCHES

 J O I N ERY 1 0 1

Pay close attention to

the joinery when shop­
ping lor wood furniture.
A good joint-where a
chair leg or arm meets
the seat, for example­
looks nearly seamless.
And it is strong: It gives
a chair, bench, or table
the strength needed to
withstand weight and
side-to-side movement.
These photographs
show three types of
quality joinery on wood
furniture. Brass hex­
agonal-head bolts and
barrel nuts (top)
reinforce joints at
critical points. Mortise­
and-tenon joints held in
place with dowels
(middle) create a strong
interlocking bond.
Screws and blocking
join and reinforce a
redwood chair (bottom).

TOP: Quartet of soph isticated wicker chairs painted deep red and placed
near a low table creates intimate gathering spot.
TOP CENTER: A white porch swing sparkles among cascading geraniums.
BOTTOM CENTER: A secluded seating area uses brilliant begonias and
salmon-colored geraniums to accentuate the warm brick of the patio and
the patina of the wood furniture.
BOTTOM: A sense of tranquill ity surrounds this shaded arbor swing and
fountain tucked among ferns, liriope, begonias, and impatiens.

FURNISHING THE LANDSCAPE 277

 Blue paint connects otherwise mismatched outdoor furniture set. The
cool color and casual arrangement welcomes visitors to a comfortable
place to enjoy a view of a sculpture garden.

The Magic of Paint

COLOR C A N TRAN S FORM A G A R D E N
O n e of t h e easiest a n d most versatile ways
to add color [Q a garden is with paint. You
might enliven the scenery with painted
chairs, brighten a path with vivid
orange paving stones, or paint an entire
wall pale pink or robin's egg blue.
Color can highlight any area of the
garden, such as painted pots tucked
into a flower bed or a terrace paved
with brightly painted tiles. Painting an
ordinary door or gate a bright color
turns it into a focal point.
As with any painting
project, start with sample chips from the
paint store. Also begin b y painting just a
small portion of your project to gauge the
effect . When in doubt, choose one shade
lighter than you'd planned. That way, you
can easily darken the color or change it
completely.
To achieve the best finish, paint i n
fair weather, out of direct s u n , after
morning dew, and at least 2 hours
before evening dampness arrives.
Prepare the su rface by removing
dirt, grease, rust, and paint flakes.

278 fiNISHING TOUCHES

 For new wood, prillle the sur­
face with one or two coats of
latex or exterior wood prilller.
Then paint with flat latex
acrylic , vinyl exterior enallleL or
house paint in the desired finish.
For plaster and s[Ucco,
use exterior latex or acrylic paint.
roller will give Illore uniform coverage.
For cast-iron fu rniture, relllove every speck
of rust (using steel wool, sanding blocks. o r a
rust-removing substanc e ) , and then coat with a rust­
resistant paint.
TOP LEFT: The blue washed terra-cotta jar and
concrete wall harmonize with each other and make
greens and bronze plants pop.
TOP RIGHT: Brilliantly colored gate in an otherwise
earthtone scene invites entry.
BOTTOM LEFT: A river of concrete meanders past block
walls covered with colored stucco.
BOTTOM RIGHT: Di lapidated barn becomes art with a coat
of bright color for the door and ramp, and a fern that has
obligingly grown through ramp slats. Completing the vignette is a
Japanese hydrangea vine climbing at left.
THE MAGIC Of PAINT 279
Dining Outdoors: Options and Accessories
I N S U MM E R . M O V E C O O K I N G A N D D I N I N G O U T S I D E
Barbecues range frol11 basic u n i ts t o more elaborate,
high-tech models. Your choice wiLl depend on factors
such as the numbe r of people you'll be serving and the
kinds of food you'll be preparing. Outdoor cook i n g
need not be limited to h a m b u rgers a n d steaks. With
options like built-in gril l s , ovens, and smokers, you can
prepare dishes ranging from smoked salmon to stir­
fried vegetables to fresh bread.
The most popular charcoal-fired barbecues are
open braziers, covered kettles, a n d boxed units with
lids. Open kinds vary from tabletop portables to large
freestanding models. Covered kettles and boxes with
h inged lids can be used covered or open for
cooking with direct or i n d i rect heat.
Most gas a n d some electrical models use a brig uet­
shaped material, such as lava rock, above t h e b u rner.

T h e We l l - E q u i p p e d G ri l l Hood (cover) Sha pes a n d

The defi n i n g feature of a ba rbecue is its gri l l , h i n g i n g action va ry.

suspended a bove a fire. B u t m a ny modern b arbecues I

can do more than j ust gri l l-their various features
often rival an indoor ra nge top. This gas ba rbecue
has the elements for virtually any a p p roach to
cooking. Rotisserie Clip-on
electrical motor and
skewer rest on fixed
brackets.

Shelf Handy swing-up or Burners Cast­

fixed shelves are available iron b u rners rest
on most units. in double-wall
stainless-steel
Side burner One or two are available for enclosures.
most grills. These high-output, commercial­
grade burners are particularly good where
wind can dissipate heat.

stainless-steel trays support

Controls Sturdy knob controls the brass rocks in some grills and keep
valve wit h i n . Each burner has its own drippings off burner outlets.
spark igniter

Grates Heavy steel racks retain heat;

porcelain coating makes cleanup easy.
Smoker Pull-out drawer holds wood chips. This
grill has a long, narrow burner lust for the smoker
drawer so foods such as salmon and cheese can be
cold-smoked.
Rock layer Rocks absorb heat from
burners and radiate it to food. This
unit uses lava rock, favored by
Cart Heavy-duty coated professional chefs. Other u n its use
steel. Also available in ceramic disks or squares.
stainless steel.

280 FINISH IN G TOUCHES

Feamres such as smokers, auxiliary bu rners, and rotis­
series allow extra flexibility, Smokers, for example, can
me rely add smoke flavoring ro grilled food or can be
designed ro cold-smoke food . Barbecues with the same
capabilities as gas ranges allow you ro prepare sauces
and other dishes outdoors. Rotisseries allow the slow
roasting of larger cuts of meat. Instant-on grills and
other built-in conveniences make the barbecue as easy
to use as a kitchen range.

B a rbec u e E s s e nt i a l s
PROPANE-POWERED
BARBECUE

SMOKER BARBECUE ELECTRIC CHAR BROILER PORTABLE GAS GRILL

TURKEY FRY POT

FORK-THERMOMETER
COMBINATION
AND DRIP PAN

DINING O UTOOORS, OPTIONS AND ACCESSORIES 281

D I N I N G A L F R E S CO
ror many homeowners, c ookin g outdoors is one of sum­
Iller's great plea s ures. While creating an outdoor kitchen
can be as s im pl e as setting up a portable barbecue or
hib'l chi next to a picnic table, it can also involve much
more elaborate preparations.
If you't-e a dedicated outdoor chef with enough
s p a ce-es pec i'lll y if you live in a climate that allows year­
round outdoor cooking-you may want to pl a n a more
permanent outdoor kitchen. In addition to built-in cook­
ing facilities, other amenities include preparation and
serving counters, storage cabinets, and perhaps a refr ig ­
erator and a sink. A great advantage of these permanent
282 FINISHING TOUCHES
installations over portable barbecues is that they usually
run on piped-in natural gas rather than containers of
propane or charcoal.
In colder, windier climates, your outdoor kitchen­
like th e nea rb y dining area-should have good protec­
tion from the wind and sun. Your site should take advan­
tage of existing protection, such as the side of the house
or walJ of [he garage, potting shed, or corner where a wing
TOP: Wal l-attached cooking counter includes built-ins.
BOTTOM LEFT: Stuccoed fire pit repeats patio's rectilinear lines and is
perfect for making 'smores.
BOTTOM RIGHT: A brick counter matches the brick patio.
meets the main house. Fences or natural wind screens, like
hedges, can reduce the influence of prevaili.ng winds and
provide late-afternoon shade. In warm cLmates, open the
area to breezes to help ensure cooler temperatures.
Remember that no matter how well appointed your
outdoor kitchen is, some of the food cooked outside will
be prepared or stored inside, and the leftovers wiJJ be
returned there later. With this i.n mind, the outdoor area
should be accessible to the indoor kitchen. Smooth,
well-tended paths leading from the house are crucial for
shuttLng back and forth. Use the base plan you created
(see page 150) to place the outdoor kitchen, as well as
dining and other outdoor Lving areas, in the best locations.
To help keep outdoor cooking facilities clean, choose
LEFT: Grill base is built of concrete block and faced with replica used
brick. Grill, side burners, and storage doors are all stainless steel.
TOP RI GHT: Tile-covered wooden countertop, protected by overhang,
needs protective sealer applied each season.
BOTTOM RIGHT: Screening the deck retains the advantages of an outdoor
room, but without insects.
materials carefuJJy. Glazed ceramic tiles, for example, are
an exceJJent choice for countertops. Wood, on the other
hand, should be avoided. Materials used for counters, fire­
places, or fire pits should also complement house and patio
building materials. For example, if YOLi plan to build with
bricks, match the bricks used in walls and paving in other
parts of your house and landscape.
OINING OUTOOORS, OPTIONS ANO ACCESSORIES 283

Light Up the Night
EVEN A L ITTLE WORKS W O N DERS
There's n o need to leave your patio i n t h e evening j ust
because it's dinnertime and getting too dark to keep an
eye on the kids. Good outdoor lighting can extend your
time outdoors for dining and play.
Outdoor lighting fixtures are either decorative or
functional. Decorative lights-lanterns, hanging and
post- or wall-mounted units, path lights, and strip
lights-can add some fill light, but they're primarily
meant to be seen, to set an architectural tone, and to
highlight landscape elements.
A functional fixture's job is to light the garden with­
out drawing attention to itself. It gives you the right kind
of light for entertaining, outdoor cooking, or a lively
evening volleyball game. Although some manufacturers
284 FINISHING TOUCHES
Path lights i l luminate entrance to the terrace and path into garden, while
upfacing floodlights wash light over stone wall.
make attractive versions, the less visible these fixtures
are, the more successful your lighting will be.
Outdoor lighting also enhances safety. When it illumi­
nates paths and steps, lighting decreases the possibility of
missteps, and a well-lit yard is less attractive to ultruders.
LIGHTING BASICS
Although the principles are the same for both mdoor
and outdoor wiring, some materials used outdoors are
specially designed to resist the weather. Driptight sub­
panel boxes and watertight switch boxes, for example,
remain safe in damp and wet locations. U nderground
electrical cable has a thick solid plastic covering that
makes it watertight when buried directly in the ground.

STA N DA R D C U R R E NT O R
LOW-VO LTAG E ?
Outdoor lighting can b e powered b y
standard 120-volt current or by low-voltage
systems with transformers that reduce household current
to 12 volts.
Standard c u rrent Well suited for large projects or for
lighting tall trees, standard-voltage fixtures are often
better built and longer lasting than low-voltage models.
However, they're also larger, harder to hide, more costly
to install, more difficult to move, and harder to aim.
Any standard-voltage installation requires a budding
WEATHERPROOF
JUNCTION BOX
permit, and codes require thar
circuits be wired through GFIs.
Wires must be encased in rigid con­
duit unless they're ar least 18 inches
underground, and aU junctions must
be encased in approved outdoor
boxes.
Low voltage Advantages include
energy conservation, grearer safety,
easier installation, portability, and
more control of light beams. Some
are solar powered.
On the down side, low-voltage fix­
tures are often simply staked in the
ground and can be upset easily.
They're expensive. And the
number of lamps thar can be
attached to one transformer is
limited.
DIRECT BURIAL
CABLE
TOP LEFT: Wall-mounted swivel spot casts a narrow beam.
BOTTOM LEFT: Copper cap on this stake-mounted path light hides the
source of light.
MIDDLE: Handcrafted low-voltage copper lantern hangs from curved staff.
TOP RIGHT: Wall-mounted decorative spot makes a narrow, vertical shaft
of light.
BOTTOM RIGHT: Craftsman-style copper lantern lights garden entrance.
LIGHT UP THE NIGHT 285
D EC I D I N G W H E R E Y O U N E E D L I G H T
Whatever your garden's size, start b y determining how
much of it you want to light. Most lighting designers
divide the garden into three zones: a foreground,
which is usually given midlevel b rightness; a middle
ground, with low-level light and an interplay of shad­
ows; and a backgroun d-often the brightest of all-to
draw the eye th rough the garden.
Lighting should never be spotty. It should define,
not disguise. For example, uplighting gives the mantle of
a tall tree a dramatic form, but it can also make the top
appear to hover ghostlike above the earth. To visually
anchor the trunk, have that light (or an additional one)
illuminate the trunk near ground level. Also, be aware of
how your lights may affect your
neighbors. Some communities
even have ordinances regulat­
ing "light trespass . "
Here are some common
garden situations and how to
light them:
lEFT: By lighting different points o f interest, night lighting stretches the
view and expands the garden.
RIGHT: Path l i ghts bring the walkway into easy view, an important safety
feature on dark nights.
BOTTOM: Placed low to illum inate pathways, steps and driveways, path
lights direct a small amount of light downward and without glare.
fixtures that s p read soft pools of light are effective. By
incorporating them into plantings along the edge of
the path, you can show off elements of your garden
and camouflage the fixtures d u ring the day. Steps can
also be lit by these fixtures, o r by fixtures built into
the risers of the steps themselves o r into a retaining
wall alongside the steps.

W a l k s and steps Light

walkways softly to avoid
detracting focus from nearby
decorative lighting. Low

286 FINISHING TOUCHES

D i n i n g areas a n d l i v i n g spaces Dim lighting is usually
appropriate for quiet conversation or outdoor dining.
Soft, indirect lighting provides enough visibility to see O UT D O O R L I G HT I N G TEC H N I QU ES
without robbing the evening of its mood. Cooking and
other activity areas require brighter lighting. Here are several standard
outdoor lighting techniques
Fol iage Uplighting, downlighting, and spread lighting to use for interesting results.
are common techniques for illuminating foliage. Using For example, achieve a moon­
separate s\vitches and dimmers allows a greater variation light effect by placing both
of lighting effects. uplights and down lights in a
For a dappled "moonlight" effect, place both large tree. Remember that in
uprights and downlights in a large tree to highlight some cooking areas, you'll need
of the foliage and create shadows on the ground. To silo
stronger lights than you will
houette a tree or shrub, aim a spotlight or wall washer at Backlight a lacy shrub to
for lounging.
a fence or a wall behind the plant. make it glow.
Decorative minilights can be used to outline trees
and other features while lending sparkle to the garden.

AVO I D I N G G LA R E
Avoiding glare, either through light placement or fixture
selection, is important for both functional and decorative
lighting. Glare is responsible for the discomfort you feel
when looking at a light that's too bright or that's aimed
straight at your eyes.
Use path lights to flank walks Sidelight dense trees to
Placing a n d d i recting fixtu res The best way to avoid or shine high under eaves. define their details.
glare is to place fixtures out of sight lines, either very low
or very high-along a walk or up in a tree, for example.
Direct the fixtures so that only the effect of the light is
noticed. Avoid creating bright spots of light.

U s i ng more f i xtures It's less glaring and more inviting

to use a few strategically placed lower·wattage lights out·
side a door than to use one high·wattage Light.

U s i n g sh i e l ded f i x t u res In a shielded fixture, the bulb

area is completely hidden by a shroud that directs the Shadow plants to magnify Cast soft light downward to
light away from viewers' eyes. The eye instead sees the their silhouettes on walls. simulate moonl ight.
warm glow of a lighted object rather than a concentrated
hot spot of light.

• Fixtures of bronze, copper, and a luminum alloy are most

weather and temperature resistant.
• Make sure the low-voltage transformer's capacity matches the

number of lamps you need.

• Remove lamps once a year and coat sockets with a Aim floodlights upward to Up light trees to reveal
silicone-based lubricant. highlight architecture. their form.
• Replace dead lamps promptly to protect other lamps in

the circut.

L I G HT UP THE NIGHT 287

Water Features
TI IEY MAKE (�ARDENS COME A L I V E
A water feature, such a s a fountain or a small pool, can
add m uch to a garden. I t can be a mesmerizing focal
point-a piece of garden art that delights both eyes
and ears. And the quiet m usic of b urbling, trickling, o r
splashing water brings a certain t ranquillity to a space;
even the smallest water feature can calm you r sur­
roundings and soothe the soul. As a bonus, the sounds
of falling water can mask unwanted t raffic noise and
other neighborhood hubbub, creating a sense of the
countryside in the middle of suburbia.
A pleasing water fea t u re can be as modest as a
wall-moun ted fountain that trickles water into a basin
o r as elaborate as a 6-foot granite sculpture that sends
a graceful arc of water into a pool. You can convert a
wooden planter box, metal basin, or large pot into a
small, informal fo untain. Sim ply coat the inside of a
wooden container with asphalt emulsion or epoxy
paint o r use a liner of heavy-gauge plastic sheeting. If
you're using an unglazed pan o r clay pot, coat the inte­
rior with asphalt emulsion, epoxy, o r polyester resin.
Then add a submersible p u m p and water.
Any container that's watertight can make a
TOP LEFT: The orb shimmers with a thin sheet of water while the del icate
sound of water over rocks fills air. Copper sphere and box assume a
more pronounced patina over time.
BOTTOM LEFT: Galvanized watering can pours gentle arc into half barrel.
RtGHT: Detailed lead gray fountain is actually made of molded plastic,
yet adds formal touch to a garden. Coleus and impatiens
surround the fountain.
LEFT: An antique hand pump turns a simple barrel into an
easy·to·manage water garden.
RIGHT: Gently circulating water overflows cast·in·place concrete
container and falls into catch basin hidden beneath rocks. 'Regal G R OW I N G WATER L I LI ES
Mist' deer grass provides shelter, and penstemon an accent.
A 3D-inch glazed and watertight ceramic pot makes a simple,
reflection pool. For the best reflections, find a con· handsome water feature. Fill it about two-thirds full with water,
tainer with an extra·wide opening at the tOP and a then add plants-each in
dark interior. Aluminum and glazed ceramic containers its own pot (set piants on
are beautiful because they gleam when wet. Stone and bricks to raise them). The
unglazed bowls develop an interesting patina with age. size of the container dictates
Experiment to find the best places in your garden the number of plants you
for water bowls. Set Lip a bowl somewhere and check need. Start with water lilies
the reflection as you app roach it along the path or look and water irises. After
down on it from the deck. If it's too cumbersome to they're in place, fill the tub
keep filling and emptying the bowl as you move it with water. To control
around the garden, test the reflection by simply put· mosquitoes, add mosquito
ting a mirror across the top of the bowl in different fish or goldfish. They'll a lso
locations. feed on algae. A 3D-inch·
After the bowl is in its final position, use a carpen· diameter tub can accom
ter's level to check that the rim is perfecrly even before modate about six fish.
filling the bowl with water. If it isn 't, adjust it by shim· Once a year, without emp­
ming u p the container o r moistening the soil under· tying the water, scrub the
neath i t and screwing the container into the ground plant pots and the inside of
until the rim is level. Fill the bowl with water only the tub with a stiff brush.
then. When a bowl is full, even a slight tilt will be Remove loose algae. Drain
evident in the water line, and a large container will be when 2 inches of decom­
too heavy and awkward to reposition. posed matter accumulates
See pages 262 through 265 for information about on the bottom (every few
more fountains and ponds like these that you can years). Scrub the inside sur­
make. faces and divide plants.

WATER FEATURES 289


Artful Touches
I NTRI G U I NG G A RD EN A C C E S S O RI E S
A garden's personality comes from more than its plants
and structures. Much depends on the gardener's knack
for adding finishing touches-a copper lantern, a
brightly glazed pot, a collection of folk-art b i rdhouses.
From a teak bench to a lacy hammock or a well-placed
boulder, these decorative elements can create a focal
point, complement a grouping of foliage and Rowers, or
simply delight the eye.
290 FINISHING TOUCHES
TOP LEFT: Frozen i n time, sculpted birds are a winter focal point.
BOTTOM LEFT: Terra-cotta beehive and glass hurricane lamps add light
and a pleasing touch to a palio.
RIGHT: Tilted containers show off hydrangeas, licorice plant, and
petunias.
The traditional pineapple symbol of welcome in
Colonial Williamsburg still appears in many gardens, but
you can opt for more obvious and personal invitations.
Place a carved stone or painted wood or metal sign at
the main entrance to your garden or use a sign to point
the way to a more hidden path. Don't be afraid to add a
little hwnor or fun to your garden, either. Just the right
personal touch makes the garden your own.
 Fasteners on the garden
gate, finials on the fence
posts, or brass hose guides can
add a pleasing rouch. Or your
details may be less eviden t , such as
the careful selection of just the right
flat srones ro place at the end of a
downspout, the use of a section
of old iron fence as a trellis for
a pea vine, or the choice of a
translucent dragonfly that
floats on a copper stake
above a perennial bed.
By definition,
details are nor the focal
point of the garden, but
they can provide great
pleasure when selected in
thoughtful counterpoint ro a garden's themes. Se,lrching
for just the right detail can continue the adventure of gar­
dening long after the main plan is accompLished.
Luckily, garden accessories have never been as
plentiful and as varied as they are roday. Furniture is
available in a variety of styles. umbreLlas come fitted with
lights or with c an vas waLls thar block the wind, and
birdbaths range from rustic ro sculptural in form.
Resourceful g ardene rs are turning humble boulders into
striking sculptures and adding flair with birdhouses, stat­
uary, outdoor lighting, and painted fences. Giving your
garden a di stin c t ive look is as simple as letting your imag­
ination lead the w ay.
In styl e spirit, and materials, you have a tremendous
, RIGHT: Gazing globe reflects golden daylilies.
choice of garden decor.
\\(/harever ornaments you use,
they will look best if they're
pan of a unified and harmo­
nious design based on princi­
ples similar ro those for interior
decor.
In a unified design, plants,
structures, and decorative objects
all share one style and character,
and all work rogether ro convey the
garden's mood. No one plant,
structure, or object stands out too
much; rather, all of the pans work
rogether ro establish a sense
of unity.
Ornaments in the garden
must also be to scale if they are to
be blended attractively. A monumental
sculpture will tend ro overwhelm a smaLl garden, just as a
towering tree will. Conversely. a small stone figure will
look lost in a spacious serring. GeneraLly, the ornaments
you choose should be in proportion to ri,e house, the
plantings, and ,my nearby garden structures. You can give
a smaller object or statue more importance by placing it
arop a pedestal or other support. This will usually look
best if the support is surrounded by foliage or flowers that
mask ri,e distance berween the ground and the ornament.
LEFT: Cast·stone pineapple finial marks the axis point of c l ipped
boxwood hedges.
ARTFUL TOUCHES 291
For the Birds
\TT R A C T I N C T H O S E S P E G A L G A RD E N V I S ITORS
To emice birds t o you r yard. you'll need t o provide them
with the three elements they need most: food, water, and
shelter. These necessities of life will be supplied in part
by your selection of plants (see page 5 8 ) , but you can
make your garden irresistible by supplementing the natu­
ral resources the plams provide.
Supplememal feeding increases you r garden's pow­
ers of attraction simply because nature can't usually
match the concentrated supply of food that you can
provide. Birds often remember where they had a good
meal many months before, and they will return to the
same spot for more.
Whether birds flock to your feeders seasonally or
year- round, catering a banquet for them can be wonder­
fully satisfying, bringing life and color to the garden.
Most people assume birds need supplemental feed­
ing most in the winter, especially where winter is snowy.
But it turns out that bird feeding is less an act of charity
than indulgence, like raising a perfect rose.
S O RT I N G O U T B I R D S E E D
For vegetarian birds, seeds are nutritious meals, conve­
niently packaged. The oil in the seeds helps birds mai.ntain
body fat to sustain themselves Ul wmter weather and fur­
nishes calories for their constant activity. Seed protem is
Ullportant for birds' strenuously worked muscles.
S unflower seeds delight seed-eatmg birds almost any­
where, but other seeds vary in appeal from one locality to
another. To find out what the birds m your neighborhood
like best, experiment wim small amounts of different seeds
to see what disappears first.
TOP LEFT: Satell ite-style feeder offers sugar water to hummingbinrds.
TOP LEFT CENTER: Nut feeder captures attention of a tufted titmouse.
TOP RIGHT CENTER: Spring-loaded perches deter raiding squirrels
and large birds.
TOP RIGHT: Goldfinch feasts on black oil sunflower seeds.
BOTTOM LEFT: Western scrub jay dines at dressed-up platform feeder.
BOTTOM RIGHT: Concrete feeder includes sculpted versions of visitors.
F E E D E R B AS I C S
Locate feeders at varying levels to atrract different
birds, close enough to cover to allow escape from B I R D - FE E D I N G G U I D EL I N E S
predators but not right next to shrubs where cats
could lie in wait. Use feeders designed to protect seed • Set u p feeders i n September o r October to attract birds as
from rain, snow, and garden sprinklers. Situate them they begin to establish winter feeding territories.
where the wind won't blow seed away and birds will • Continue feeding through early spring, the time when natural
be p rotected from winter's chill. Keep suet out of food supplies are lowest.
direct sun, especially in warm weather, or it may turn • Use commercially prepared suet cakes through winter.
rancid. • Place feeders on the south side of your house, if possible, to
You can choose traditional feeders of wood or catch winter sun. Moist food will dry faster in sunlight.
more modern designs of sleek acrylic or lightweight • Leave feeders in place during summer months. Many birds
metal-and all sorts of design styles, from whimsical to appreciate a year-round source of food.
high tech. Just keep in mind the kind of food you'll be
offering and the species of birds you want to arrract
(or discourage ) . Some feeders are designed for certain
birds; by offering more than one type of feeder, you're
bound to attract a wider clientele.
When selecting a feeder, evaluate how easy it will
be to fill and clean it. Keeping feeders clean is impera­
tive for the health of the birds you'll be feeding, so you
want feeders that open easily for cleaning.

Platforms The most basic kind of feeder is a platform or

tray-a flat surface on which food is scattered. This is a
good way to begin, because this type of feeder is quickly
noticed by birds and appeals to many species, thus
giving you a good snapshot of the birds in your
neighborhood.
Platform feeders need frequent cleaning because seed unwanted kinds of seeds will just be discarded. Tube feed­
hulls and bird droppings are deposited on the surface. ers with metal perches and openings are the most durable.
Large birds tend to dominate these feeders, and birds are A globe feeder atrracts small clinging species, like
more vulnerable to predators on an open platform. chickadees and titmice, giving them their own private
diner, because larger birds can't get a toehold on the
Hoppers, t u b e s , a n d globes A longtime favorite, the feeder.
hopper feeder has a storage bin so that seed automatically
flows as it is needed. This kind of feeder attracts a varied Other feeders Acrylic seed feeders that attach to win­
following of bird species. Some hoppers have separate bins dows with suction cups are fun to watch from indoors,
for different kinds of seed, or suet or fruit holders in although they usually have limited capacity. Most are
addition to seed bins. best suited to small birds. Window feeders for suet and
The tube feeder, usually SUET WITH NUTS hummingbird nectar are also avail­
plastic, is a popular way to BLACK OIL
able. Some window feeders
dispense black oil sun­ SUNFLOWER SEED have one-way backs so
THISTLE (OR NIGER) that birds can't see
flower seed or thistle SEED
(niger) seed, depending through and won't be
on the size of the holes. frightened away by
Tube feeders attract indoor bird-watch­
small birds, such as ers-or you can buy
SEED
finches, c1Uckadees, and MIXTURE SAFFlOWER a separate sheet of
nuthatches. Don't fill them SEED one-way screening
with mixed birdseed-the material.

FOR THE BIROS 293

 '
LEFT: A robin and brown-headed cowbird share a' drink and a dip in
terra-cotta bath with glazed bottom.
RIGHT: English birdbath fountain of cast stone is fitted with a plug-in
pump. Water bubbles out from the bowl's top.
T H E L U R E OF WAT E R
Water holds a powerful attraction for birds. B y offering a
place where they can drink and bathe, you'll greatly
increase the number of resident and visiting birds in
your garden. Birds will happily frolic in a puddle, but a
birdbath in the right spot-kept full and clean-is the
ultimate backyard watering hole for all kinds of feath­
ered frien ds.
The vessel itself isn't critical, as long as it's shallow,
slopes gently, and has a roughened surface to give birds a
good foothold. Even an upside-down garbage can lid or a
simple terra-cotta plant saucer can make a fine birdbath.
Birdbaths can be made out of practically anything­
concrete, glazed ceramic, metal, plastic,
terra-cotta, stone, fiberglass,
even wood. Plastic and metal
withstand lots of weather
variations, but su rfaces can be
slippery, and some plastic
cracks with age. Metal should be
rust-resistant.
Provide a gradual transition from
shallow to deeper water-no more than 3 inches
deep.
A birdbath might deepen from the edges to
the center or from one end to the other. A bird
won't plunge into water of unknown depth but
will instead wade in until it finds a level to its lik­
ing. If the bath has steep sides, birds may have dif­
ficulty judging the water's depth, so position a flat
rock or two in the center.
294 FINISHING TOUCHES
To allow room for more than one bird at a time,
choose a bath that's at least 24 inches in diameter.
To create the necessary traction in slick-bottomed
baths, you can add gravel to the bottom, although that
does make cleaning more difficult. Lightweight bird­
baths need secure pedestals to keep them from being
tipped over.
For your own enjoyment, position a birdbath where
you can see it from your house or patio. For the birds'
sake, choose a location sheltered from strong winds
where the bath will get morning sun but midday shade
(so the water doesn't get too warm ) .
N E ST I N G S T R U CT U R E S
Birds can suffer from a housing shortage, especially in
developed areas where natural vegetation has been
removed and gardens aren't mature enough to provide
desirable nesting sites. Even rural farmland may not be
hospitable: As woods are cut, brush is cleared, and tree
crops are tended, the number of good
nesting areas is reduced. Man­
made nesting structures can
provide a remedy-and lure
birds into your garden.
Only cavity-nesting birds
(those that nest in holes in trees)
use birdhouses; these include chick-
adees, nuthatches, wrens, bluebirds, and
some swallows, among other backyard birds. To
accommodate species such as barn swallows, robins,
and phoebes, that don't nest in cavities, you can put
up nesting shelves. These open-sided structures offer
a bon us-they let you observe the activities of your
tenants.
All birdhouses aren't created equal, and different
kinds of houses appeal to different birds. House
dimensions, tlle size of the entrance hole, and the
mounting height need to be tailored to the partiCLilar
species you're trying to attract. These aren't hard-and-fast
rules, but your odds of attracting tenants will be improved B I R D H O U S E BAS I C S
if you come close to following them. Remember that even
Make sure your houses are installed i n plenty of time for the
though a birdhouse may be designed for a wren, chick­
nesting season. Migrant birds start returning in some areas as
adee, or bluebird, it will be fair game for any bird of simi­
early as February and look for nest sites soo� after they arrive.
lar size.
Also keep the following pointers in mind:
Nowadays, you'll find an abundance of decorative
birdhouses representing a range of materials and artistic o Remove any perch that came with your birdhouse-it's
fancies. Such houses make fine garden art, but they may unnecessary, and house sparrows may use it to heckle birds
not work as living spaces for birds. Most functional nest­ inside.
ing boxes are made to handle all sorts of weather, and o Birdhouses should be made from materials that insulate
they're usually unpainted-birds tend to shy away from well, like wood that's at least Y. inch thick.
the cute, colorful houses that am'act humans. o One side or the top should open for cleaning (before the
Whether you're buying or building, wood is the old next nesters arrive) and monitoring the nest box, and there
standby and has good insulating properties, but you can should be drain holes on the bottom and ventilation holes
also find birdhouses made of ceramic, metal, acrylic, high u p on the sides.
PVC pipe, gourd, and other materials. Aluminum purple o Add a textured surface on the i n side wall below the entry to
martin houses are popular and easier to hoist than allow hatchlings to climb to the hole.
wooden versions. o Angle the roof and extend it well beyond the entry, both to
In bird real estate, as in the human kind, location keep rainwater out and to discourage predators. Double­
is everything. Know the kinds of birds that frequent thick entry holes help keep predators, such as raccoons,
your locale and tailor your accommodations to their from reaching in.
habitat p references. o lf you hang a birdhouse, keep the chain short to minimize
Keep birdhouses away from feeders-mealtinle bus­ swinging.
tle makes nesting birds nervous. If you put up more than
one nest box, keep houses well separated and out of
sight of one another-nesting birds like privacy. Face
house entrances away from prevailing weather. To keep
nest boxes safe from raccoons and cats, mount them on
metal poles. If you want ro put a birdhouse in a tree,
hang it from a branch that's partially protected from the VICTORIAN-STYLE
elements and the watchful eyes of predators. NESTING BOX
CEOAR
BLUEBIRO HOUSE BLUE BIRO OR TREE
ALUMINUM SWALLOW HOUSE
PURPLE MARTIN CONOO

CEOAR WREN
HOUSE

FOR THE BIROS 295

Where Plants Grow
I T S MOSTLY D ETERM I N E D BY LOW T E MP E RATURES
Quirky octopus cactus takes the heat in this Tucson, Arizona, garden, but
northern winters would surely kill it.
When you're trying to determine if a certain plant will
grow in your garden, begin by thinking about your typical
winter minimum temperatures. While it's not the only fac­
tor that determines a plant's hardiness, it's usually the
most crucial. But while winter cold is a key consideration,
other climatic features are j ust as important.
W H AT ' S YO U R ZO N E ?
Gardeners have a variety o f plant zone maps they use to
determine whether plants are well adapted to the climate
in which they live. While none is perfect, the one used
most widely is the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map.
Based on average annual minimum temperatures, it
indicates the ability of plants to withstand cold tempera­
tures. The plants described in this chapter include the
USDA zones in which they can b e grown.
But cold hardiness is not all that influences plant
298 CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLANTS
adaptation. Heat, h u midity, intensity o f summer sunshine,
and many other factors also determine how well a plant
will grow in a given area. While most garden centers
carry only plants that are adapted locally, investigate
regional sources (garden books and cooperative extension
b u lletins, for example) that offer more precise informa­
tion about how plants perform in your area and the
growing conditions under which they grow best.
Some areas are perpetually windy; in others, windy
weather is associated only with certain seasons. Wind
dries out plants and soil, and it's hard on plants with del­
icate foliage and flowers. You may be able to compensate
by providing windbreaks and extra water and b y choos­
ing plants that withstand wind s uccessfully.
Many plants are accustomed to receiving a certain
amount of rain at a particular time of year, depending on
the conditions prevailing in their native regions. In gen­
eral, the eastern half of the United States has rainy sum­
mers, while summers in the West are dry (though early
summer can be wet in the Pacific Northwest). Many
plants native to the East require extra summer water if
planted in the West ; conversely, some western natives
will die in eastern gardens, drowning in the summer rain.
(For an example, of these differences and how they
affect zone recommendations, see "Plant Samplers" on
the opposite page.)
Mountains interfere with basic wind patterns and the
movement of air masses. Depending on their height and
alignment, they either
block the wind's
progress or direct it.
They also cause moist
air to rise and cool, so
that more rain is
deposited on one side of
a mountain than on the
other. I f you live near
hills or mountains, your
clinlate may differ from
that of a neighbor living
on the opposite slope.
You may live on the Many deciduous shrubs survive ice,
west side of a mountain snow, and temperatures below -30'F.
USDA ZONES

·40.0 10 -34.5 3 -40 10 ·30

-34.3 10 -26.9 -30 10 ·20
28. 8
- 10 -23 . 4 -20 1 0 - 1 0
-23.3 1 0 - 1 7 . 8 6 · 1 0 10 0
-1 7.7 10 -1 2.3 0 '0 10
-12.2 10 -6.7 10 to 20
-6.6 10 -1.2 9 20 10 30
- 1 . 1 10 4.' 10 30 to '0
4.5 and above , 40 and above

and receive 4 0 inches o f rain per year. for example, while

someone on the eastern side, just 20 miles away, gets
only 12 inches.
If you live near the ocean or a large inland body of
water, your climate will differ from the climate at the
same latitude some miles inland. In Buffalo, New York,
for example, the nearby Great Lakes produce extremely
snowy winters. In San Francisco, California, the Pacific
Ocean makes for cool, overcast summers. You'll need to
account for these conditions in choosing plants for such
ocean- or lakeside regions.
Microclimates also affect plant adaptation. Around
your house or neighborhood are small areas that, due to
factors such as elevation, shade from buildings or trees,
or reflected light, differ from the general climate of the
region you live in. For more details about identifying and
exploiting these microclimates around your house on
pages 1 52 and 1 5 3 .
• Choose long-lived plants, such a s trees and shrubs, known to
be both winter- and summer-hardy in your area.
PLANT SAMPLERS
Descriptions o f plants and advice o n their care is in the plant
sampler sections. Each entry begins with the plant's common
name (if it has one), followed by its botanical name i n italics.
Plants are listed alphabetically by their more standard botani­
cal name. The index, beginning on page 424, includes both
common and botanical names. The information varies slightly
according to the needs of the particular group of plants.
Usually you find a reference to the type of plant, such as "ever­
green" (meaning it has green leaves all year) or "deciduous"
(meaning leaves fall or the plant dies to the ground in winter).
In all cases, you'll find a recommendation of USDA Zones
where the plant grows well , and those zone numbers, from 2
through 1 1 , refer to the map shown above. Because zones 9
through I I in the mild-winter West are different from those in
the South, the recommended zones for that region follow in
parenthesis. An example is the zone recommendations for
Japanese maple on page 3 1 0: "".zones 5-8 (5-I IW)."

WHERE PLANTS GROW 299

Improving Your Soil
DEVELOP GOOD SOIL B Y A D DI N G O RG A N I C M ATTER
A rich brown color, crumbly texture and sponge-like ability to hold
moisture are sure signs of good soil. Create it by adding organic matter
before planting and by periodically adding an organic mulch.
While you can't do much to change the cllmate you live
ill , you can improve the soil in which your plants will
grow. In fact, the most important task you can undertake
to ensure the health and longevity of your new landscape
is to properly prepare the soil before you plant.
A M E N D I N G YO U R S O I L
Most gardens have soil that provides a less-than-ideal
environment for many plants. Perhaps the soil is rocky
or scraped bare from new construction; perhaps it's too
c1aylike or too sandy to suit the plants you want to grow.
While changing a soil's basic texture is very difficult, you
can improve its structure-making clay more porous or
sand more water retentive-by adding amendments.
The best amendment for soil of an'y texture is
organic matter, the decaying remains of plants and
animals. As it decomposes, organic matter releases nun-i·
ents that are absorbed by soil-dwelling microorganisms
300 CHOOSING T H E RIGHT PLANTS
and bacteria. The combination o f these creatures' waste
products and their remains, called humus, billds with
soil particles. In clay, it forces the tightly packed particles
apart, so drainage is improved and the soil is easier for
plant roots to penetrate. In sand, it lodges in the large
pore spaces and acts as a sponge, slowillg draillillg water
so that the soil stays moist longer.
You want organic matter to make up at least 5
percent of your soil. Commonly available organic
amendments include compost, well-rotted manure, and
soil conditioners ( composed of several ingredients).
These and others are sold ill bags at many full-service
nurseries or i n bulk (by the cubic yard) at supply cen­
ters. Byproducts of local industries, such as rice hulls,
cocoa bean hulls, or mushroom compost, may also be
avallable.
Finely ground tree trimmings (wood chips) a n d
sawdust a r e also used, but because t h e y a r e h i g h in car­
bon will use nitrogen as they decompose, taking much­
needed n itrogen from the soil . To make sure your
plants aren't deprived of the nitrogen they need, add a
fast-acting nitrogen source, such as ammonium sulfate,
along with the amendment ( use about 1 pound for each
I -inch layer of wood chips or sawdust spread over 1 0 0
square feet of ground ) .
Although t h e particular organic amendment you
choose is often decided by what's available at the best
What I s Soi I ?
Air = 20-25% ----�="ifI>d'l_-c-'-
Water = 20-25%
Organic matter = 5% or less*
Mineral particles = 45-50%
*An ideal garden soil has a h i gher
percentage of organic m atter ::��.:
than this average.
Ad d i n g O rga n i c So i l A m e n d m ents
, --')
o Spread a mendment layer even ly over 8 M i x a mend ments i nto soil, using
surface of soi l . either a rotary tiller or spade.
price, many experts favor compost over all other
choices.
Amend new beds before you put any plants into
the ground. For long-term benefits, choose an amend­
ment that breaks down slowly. Shredded bark and peat
moss hold their structure the longest, taking several
years to decompose. Include compost in the mix, as
well; although i t breaks down in just a few months, it
bolsters the initial nutrient supply available to soil
microorganisms-and these will contribute humus to
the soil, increase the soil aeration, or amount of air in
the soil, and help protect your new plants from certain
diseases.
In beds earmarked for vegetables and annual flow­
ers, amend the soil before each new crop is planted.
Compost and well-rotted manure are p referred by
most gardeners, because they dramatically imp rove the
soil's structure, making it hospitable to the fine, tiny
roots of seedlings. Unamended soil may dry into hard
clods that small roots can't penetrate, and plants may
grow slowly, be stunted, or die as a result. Manure and
compost break down rapidly-m anure in a few weeks,
compost in several months-so be sure to replenish
these amendments before you plan t each crop.
To add a m e n d m e nts to unplanted beds, spread the
material evenly over the soil, and then work it in by
hand using a spade or with a rotary tiller to a depth of
about 9 inches. If your soil is mostly clay or sand,
spread 4 to 5 inches of amendment over it; after you
work this in, the top 9 inches of soil will be about half
original soil, half amendmen t . I f the soil is loamy or
has been regularly amended each season, add just a
e Rake tilled soil smooth to break up
clods, remove stones, and level surface.
2- to 3 -inch layer of amendment; you'll have a 9-inch
top layer of about three-quarters original soil, one­
quarter amendment.
Permanent or semipermanent plantings of trees,
shrubs, or perennials benefit from soil amendments,
too, but you need to do the job without damaging
plant roots. It's often sufficient simply to spread the
amendment over the soil su rface as a mulch; earth­
worms, microorganisms, rain, and irrigation water will
all carry it downward over time, gradually improving
the soil's top layer. If the plant isn't shallow-rooted
( that is, if it doesn't have many roots concentrated near
the soil level ) , you can speed up the improvement
process by working the amendment into the top inch
or so of soil, using a three-pronged cultivator. In a
lawn use a core aerator to pull plugs of soil out. Then
refill the holes with compost. ( See page 4 1 3 . )
I f your climate i s generally mild and winters are
rainy, amend the soil around established plantings
annually after fall cleanup. In cold-winter regions with
spring and summer rainfall, do the job as you begin
spring gardening.
• Amend soil before planting.
• If you suspect your soil is poor ask your cooperative extension
service how to get it tested.
• If you need more than a few bags of amendment, buy in bulk.
I MPROVING YOUR SOil 301
Solving Soil Problems
DRA I N AGE A N D A C I D - A L K A L I N E B A L A N C E ARE C O M M O N O N E S
Improving soil structure is important, but you may also
need to correct other problems if your garden is to
thrive. Soil may drain poorly, it may be roo acid or alka­
line, it may suffer from chlorosis or excess salts, or it may
be underlain by a cementlike layer of hardpan. This
section describes these conditions and offers solutions.
POOR D R A I N AG E
Poor drainage causes myriad problems. If water simply
stands in the soil's pore spaces rather than draining away,
not enough air is available for roots and beneficial soil­
dwelling microorganisms, and both may die. The
reduced root structure can't adequately support the
plants' leaves and stems, and the resulting stress makes
plants more susceptible to insect infestation or disease.
Below ground, molds develop and the normal balance of
fungi is disrupted, so the weakened root structure is
more prone ro invasion by water-mold fungi.
Fortunately, many drainage problems are easily
solved once you become aware of them. Keep your soil's
texture in mind. If the poor drainage is due ro heavy clay
soil, amend it thoroughly with organic matter. You may
302 CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLANTS
also want t o mound the amended soil sLghtly, and then
grow plants on the mounds. This can be pleasing ro the
eye as well as beneficial to plants.
Many gardens drain poorly only in some spots. To
pinpoint problem areas, inspect your garden after a
beavy rain ro see where water is standing. You may be
able to simply slope the soil in those areas so tbat water
drains away. If that doesn't do the trick, you may need to
dig a sloped trench, install drainage pipe perforated
along the top and sides, and refill the trench. Wben
heavy rain comes, water should flow down tbrough tbe
soil, go into the pipe, and be carried away.
If certain areas in your garden are always slightly
boggy and don't lend themselves ro structural change,
your best tactic is ro give in graciously. Accept the situa­
tion and choose water-loving plants for those locations.
LEFT: Create raised mounds of soil above grade for sensitive plants
where drainage is poor.
RIGHT: Dig a 2-foot-deep hole and fill it with water to check drainage.
After it drains, refill it. If the second filling drains in a n hour or less,
drainage is good.
AC I D O R A L K A L I N E SO I L
The pH scale indicates acidjty or alkalinity. A soil with a
pH number below 7 is acidjc, while one with a pH
above 7 is alkaline. Garden plants typically grow best in
neutral or slightly acidic soil, with a pH 7 o r slightly
below. Most won't thrive in highly acidic or highly alka­
line soil, although a few have adapted to such extremes.
Certain nutrients can't be efficiently absorbed by plant
roots if the soil pH is too high or too low.
Local climate gives you a clue to the likely soil pI- I . I n
hjgh-rainfall areas, soils are often acidic, and YOLI tend to
find acid-loving plants like azaleas, rhododendrons,
camellias, and blueberries. Alkaline soils, in contrast, are
typically found in low-rainfall areas. Many of the plants
popular for waterwise gardens-plants that neecl little
water after they are established-do well in alkaline soil.
The olive, native to the Mediterranean basin, is one
example of a plant that thrives in alkaline soil; oleander
(Nerium oleander) and pomegranate also perform well.
If you're not sure about your soil's pH, you can test
it yourself with a kit that tells whether your soil is alka­
line, acidic, or neutral. Some also test for nutrients, such
as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.
To raise the pH of your soil, use ground dolomitic
limestone. Look for the kind formulated into small pills;

CJ
it is much easier to handle and apply accu rately. The THE P H SCALE
amount needed depends on the soil texture (more is Acid
needed for clay than for sandy soil, for example) and
other factors. 3 pH range
Common sulfur is the least expensive material avail­ preferred by
Extremely*
able that will lower pH. Ferrous sulfate is sometimes rec­ acid-loving
4 acid soil
ommended instead. Ferrous sulfate, which also adds iron plants

D
to the soil, is of the most help to plants that show vellow
5
leaves as well as overall poor health. You can also lower

1
pH range
the pH of alkaline soil over time by regularly applying in high-
organjc amendments, such as compost and manure. 6 pH range
rainfall
To determine how much of these products to add, regions preferred by
'"
y
follow the advice included with your test results. Also, if
<>
Neutral 7 most garden

1
E
your soil is extremely acidic or alkaline and you need to
pH
plants
range i n
change the level by more than one point on the pH 8
arid
scale, check with a p rofessional.
regions y
If amending the soil just isn't feasible, choose only ::c
c. 9
native plants that thrive in the kjnd of soil that you have. *Soils nearing
You can also build raised beds and fill them with Extremely* extremes
10
problem-free, well-amended topsoil. alkaline soil require
professional
II
intervention
TOP RIGHT: To use a pH test kit, mix a sma l l amount of soil with the to modify pH.
provided solution and compare to color chart. Alkaline
BOnOM RIGHT: Most plants grow best in neutral or slightly acidic soils,
where pH is just below neutral.

SOLVING SOIL PROBLEMS 303


Creating Planting Beds
GETT I N G PLANTS START E D RIG H T
Garden beds are o f two basic types. Some are dug
directly in the ground, while others are located in frames
that sit on the soil surface (see pages 266 and 2 67 ) .
When making new in-ground beds, some gardeners
always raise them, even if just by a few inches, using
decorative stones, bricks, or benderboard as an edging.
These gardeners wiH tell you that by time they amend
the bed's soil, it's "fluffed up" higher than its original
boundaries anyway. The raised soil gives plant roots a
few more inches of growing room, and the edging keeps
the soil in place.
Other gardeners make mounds as they dig. In this
304 CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLANTS
Create a n instant colorful border with annuals and perennials. To
experiment with color combinations, arrange blooming plants over the
planting area while still i n their nursery containers.
case, the bed's edges are close to the original soil s urface,
while the center is elevated; plants can grow both on top
of the mound and on its sides. You may want to create
several mounds, adding large decorative stones for
accents so that the mounding forms part of the landscap­
ing. As is true for slightly raised beds, the mounded soil
ensures plenty of depth for root growth as well as excel­
lent drainage.
When you ' re getting ready to dig, the soil should be
neither too wet nor too dry: A handful squeezed in your
fist should form a baH that crumbles apart, yet stiH feel
moist. If you dig into soil that's too wet, you'll compact it
R e m ov i n g Seed l i n gs fro m C o n t a i n e rs
upside down and
Turn cel l - p a c ks Hold rootba l l around stem with
press on the bottom to push rootballs out. fingers, and turn individual pots over.
la p l i ghtly if necessary.
(making it difficult for air to penetrate throughout the
soil after it dries) and destroy beneficial microorganisms.
You can't work amendments evenly into wet soil, either.
If the soil is too d ry, water the area thoroughly.
When you dig, clear most of the debris from
the soil. Then use a sharp, square-bladed spade or a
spading fork to break up the soil to a spade's depth­
typically 8 to 1 2 inches. Don't turn each spadeful com­
pletely over; if you do, roots and debris remaining on
the soil surface may form a one-spade-deep barrier
that cuts off air and water. Instead, turn the loosened
spadefuls of soil only onto their sides. After you've
broken up the soil, change to a round-point shovel for
mixing in amendments and evening the su rface.
If you're digging a large bed, consider using a
power-driven rotary tiller. If the soil hasn't been
worked in a long time, go over it first with the blades
set to a shallow level. S p read amendments over the
surface, then rotary till again with the blades set
deeper into the soil.
After a bed is ready for planting, don 't walk on it.
Following this rule will be simpler i f you can easlly
reach all parts of the bed from its borders; if it must be
wider, add board paths or stepping-stones to control
foot traffic.
Select your plants wisely and plant them correctly,
and you'll be on your way to a successful landscape.
Many kinds of plants-an nuals, vegetables, and some
perennials and ground covers-are sold as seedlings in
small containers o r in flats during the growing season.
Larger plants, such as shrubs, trees, and certain vines
and perennials, are offered in various ways: as bare-
Use a putty kn ife to cut through
soil and roots of flat-grown plants,
and to l ift them out.
root plants during the dormant season; in I -gallon,
5 -gallon, or larger containers ar any time during the
growing season; or with the rootball enclosed in burlap
from late fall to early spring. In this section, you'll
discover how to choose and plant each type.
S E L ECT I N G A N D P LA N T I N G S E E D L I N G S
Nurseries offer young seedlings o f both annuals and
perennials, giving you a head start over sowing seeds
you rself. Frost-tender summer annuals, such as marigold
and petunia, and warm-season vegetables, such as toma­
toes and peppers, should be planted after the last spring
frost in your area. Hardy annuals, including pansy and
calendula, and cool-season vegetables, like lettuce and
broccoli, can be set out three to four weeks before the
last frost date. They also can be planted in late summer
and will p rovide flowers and vegetables in fall or ( in mild
climates) in winter. Plant perennials from pots o r cell­
packs in spring or early fall.
At the nurselY, choose stocky plants with good leaf
color. It may be tempting to buy plants already in bloom,
but younger ones perform better in the long run. Be sure
to keep the plants moist until you're ready to set them out.
Soil should be moist but not soggy.
• Shop for freshest plants. Ask your nursery when new plants
are delivered.
• Add compost or fert i lizer to soil before planting; mulch
afterward.
• Fertilize annuals again six to eight weeks after planting.
C R E AT I N G PLANTING BEDS 305
 Landscape plants, meaning long­
l i ved trees, sll rubs, ground covers,
and vines, are available bare-root,
balled-and-burla pped, and in con­
tainers. Here's what you need to
know to get each kind off on the
right start.

PLAN T I N G C O N TA I N E R
P LA N T S
Plants i n contai ners a r e popular and
convenient-and in fact, many
kinds o f shrubs and trees are sold
only this way. Such plants offer cer­
tain advantages. They are sold
throughout the growing season ,
they are relatively easy to transport,
and, unl ike bare-root and balled­
and-b urlapped plants, they don't
have to be planted immediately. o Dig a rough-sided, bell-shaped planting G Set p lant and container in the hole; lay
Furthermore, these plants can be hole tWice as wide as the original rootbalL Fill a shovel handle across the hole to check rootball
purchased with their flowers, fruit, hole twice with water to check drainage (see height. One-gallon plants should be about 12 inch
or autumn leaf color on displ ay, let­ page 302) above grade.
ting you see exactly what you're
getting.
When selecting these plants,
look for healthy foliage and strong
shoots. Check the leaves and stems
to be sure no insects are present .
Inspecting the root system i s more
difficult, but healthy roots are vital
t o successful establish ment of con­
tainer plan t s . A relatively small
p l a n t in a 5 -gallon container may
not be well rooted, usually because
it has recently been moved to the
larger con tainer from a I -gallon
pot. If you buy such a plant, keep it
growing in the container until it
develops a good root system.
A plant that looks large for the
size of its pot is often rootbound.
Try to avoid such plants, but if you o F i l l the hole with water to soak the • F i l l the hole ha lfway with backfi ll,
do buy one, loosen its roots bebre surrou nding soil, then knock the plant out of its then water. Finish backfi l l ing; water again.
planting. conta iner, loosen tightly knit roots, and set the Double-check the elevation of the rootball top.
Container plants are available in plant in the hole.
several sizes, with 1- and 5 -gallon
the most common. Whicb of these you buy depends quickly; witbin three years of planting, a I -gallon plant
on how m u ch immediate im pact you want the plant to will usually have reached the same size as a 5 - gallon
have and on how long you ' re will ing to wait for i t to one set out a t the same time.
grow. Keep i n mind, though, that smaller plants grow

306 CHOOSING THE RIGHT P LANTS

P LA N T I N G B A L L E D-A N D- B U R LA P P E D P LANTS
Some woody plants and evergreens have root systems
that won't survive bare- root transplanting or just can't be
bare-rooted. Such plants are dug from the growing field
with a ball of soil around their roots, and the soil baJi is
then wrapped in burlap or a synthetic material. These
are called balled-and-burlapped (or B-and-B) plants.
Some deciduous trees and shrubs ( large ones, in particu­
larl, evergreen shrubs (such as rhododendrons and azal­
eas), and conifers are sold this way in fall and early
spring.
When buying B-and-B plants, look for healthy
foliage and an even branching structure. The covering
should be imact so that the roots aren't exposed, and the
roorball should feel firm and moisr. If you have any
doubts about the condition of the rootball, untie the
covering and check for healrhy roots and a soLid,
u ncracked rootball.
When moving the plant, always support the bortom
of the roorball. Don't pick the plam up by the trunk or
P l a nt i n g B - a n d - B P l a nts
o Measure the rootball from top
to bottom . The hole should be a bit
shal lower t h a n this d i sta nce, so
th at the top of the rootba ll is
a bout 2 i nches above the sur­
rou n d i n g soil. Adj ust the hole to
the proper depth; then set in the
p la nt.
8 Untie the covering. Burlap will
eventually rot and need not be
completely removed (remove syn­
thetic material entirely) If planting
i n a windy site, drive in a stake
beside the rootball. Fill the hole to
within 4 i nches of the top, and
then water.
o Continue to fill the hole, firm­
ing the soil as you go. Make a berm
of soil to form a watering basin;
then water the plant. If you staked
the p lant, tie it loosely to the stake.
As the p l a nt becomes established,
keep the soil moist but not soggy.
drop it, which may sharrer the roorball. Because a B-and­
B planr is usually quite heavy, have the nursery deliver it
or have a friend help you load and unload it in a sling of
stout canvas. At home, slide the plant onto a piece of
plywood and pull it to the planting spor.
P LAN T I N G BAR E- ROOT P LANTS -
Retail nu rseries and mail-order companies sell these
plants in late winter and early spring. Many deciduous
plants are available including fruit and shade trees,
flowering shrubs, roses, grapes, and cane fruits.
Look for strong stems and fresh-looking, well-formed
roor systems. Avoid plants with slimy roots or dry, withered
ones; also reject any that have already leafed our.
Plant as soon as possible after purchase. If bad
weather delays planting, plant them in a temporary
trench in a shady spot and cover the roots with moist
soil. The day before planting, soak the roots overnight
in a bucket of water. Just before planting, cut off any
damaged roots.
P i a n t i n g B a re-R oot P i a nts
o Make a firm cone of soil i n
the planting hole. Spread the
roots over the cone, positioning
the plant at the same depth as (or
slightly h igher than) it was in the
growing field. Use a shovel handle
or yardstick to check the depth.
8 Ho l d the plant as you firm
soil around roots. When backfill­
i n g is almost com plete, add
water to settle soil and eliminate
air pockets. If the plant settles
too low, raise it to the proper
level while the soil is saturated .
o Finish filling the hole with soil;
then water again. Don't water
again u ntil soil dries. Later, make
a ridge of soil around the hole to
form a watering basin; water only
when the top 2 inches of soil are
dry.
CREATING PLANTING BEDS 307
Landscaping with Trees
fOR S HA D E , BEAUTY A N D P E RM A N E N C E
Whether they are palms rustling near California beaches
or sugar maples coloring New England mountain slopes,
trees help define the general character of a landscape.
They serve so many purposes-both aesthetic and practi­
cal-that few homeowners would consider doing with­
out them. Trees offer cooling shade, provide shelter, and
establish perspective. They can also frame special vistas
and block ou[ unattractive ones. Trees can make dra­
matic sta[emems, enhance [he landscape with sculp[ural
effects, and be [he dominant feature of a landscape.
308 CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLANTS
Although [rees are often [he most expensive individ­
ual plants [0 buy, [hey can be relied on to give perma­
nence to any landscape. No[ surprisingly, [hey are partic­
ularly valued in new housing developments.
Often overlooked is the role trees play in a house's
energy conservation. For example, a [ree-shaded house
wiJi require less air conditioning in summer [han an
Grand old sycamores shade this California house through hot summers,
but let in sun during winter.
STAKI N G
Stake a young tree if it is planted i n a n extremely windy location o r if
the main trunk is too thin to stay upright. Use wide strips of canvas or
rubber that won't bind or cut into the bark, and fasten around the tree
and stakes in a figure-8 pattern_ Tie at the lowest height at which top
remains upright, and remove once no longer necessary.
exposed one. And if deciduous trees, which lose their
leaves in wimer, are planted around the south side of a
house, the warmth of winter sunshine will be able to
penetrate the interior of the house, helping to reduce
heating and lighting costs.
Your choice of t rees will be determined largely by
their purpose in your landscape. To block the sun, for
example, select only trees that develop widely spreading
branches. If you need a screen, look for t rees that pro­
duce branches on their lower trunks, or combine shrubs
or walls with trees that have bare lower trunks. For a
focal point, choose a tree that displays flowers or fruits
or one with attractive foliage, bark, or a striking winter
silhouette.
Trees usually live for decades, even centuries. Each
year, new growth springs from a framework of last year's
branches to form a gradually enlarging structure. Tree
silhouettes vary greatly from one species to another, and
a tree's ultimate shape is usually not obvious i n young
nursery specimens_
Although the range of shapes is enormous, all t rees
are classified as either deciduous or evergreen . Most
deciduous types produce new leaves in spring and retain
them throughout the summer. In the fall, leaf color may
change from green to warm autumnal tones, and the
trees then drop their foliage for the winter, revealing
bare limbs. Broad-leaved evergreens, such as many mag­
nolias, have wide leaves similar to many deciduous trees,
but these cover the plant year-round. (Older leaves drop,
however. ) Needle-leafed evergreens include trees with
needlelike foliage-firs, spruces, and pines, for exam­
ple-and those with leaves that are actually tiny scales,
such as cypresses and junipers. Becaus-e they keep their
foliage in winter, conifers retain their appearance
throughout the year, although their colors may change
slightly during cold months.
TRAI N I N G
A young tree develops a strong trunk faster if its lower branches
are removed gradually. At first, allow lower branches to grow (left).
Gradually shorten lower branches as the tree matures (center) and
ultimately remove them (right)_
STA K I N G A N D T R A I N I N G YOU N G T R E E S
Avoid trees that are too weak t o stand upright o n tlleir
own. If you have such a tree, cut it back so that a new,
stronger shoot is encouraged to develop. Ll general, stak­
ing prolongs the time a tree is too weak to stand on its
own. The type of staking depends on the size of the tree.
For trees with trunks up to 2 inches thick, place two stakes
on either side of the tree, and sec ute the tree to them at
about breast height (as shown at top left). Use three stakes
to support trees that have trwlks 2 to 4 inches thick.
Ll a windswept site, a yOWlg tree's roots may need
anchoring to keep them in firm contact with the soil; use
stakes and ties only a foot above ground level for this kind
of staking (top right). In both cases, sink stakes at right
angles to the prevailing wind. Remove iliem after about a
year or as soon as the tree appears to be self-supporting.
• Look for a tree with a strong, slightly tapered trunk.
• Al low lowest branches to remain the first year or two;
they' ll add strength to the trunk.
LANDSCAPING WITH TREES 309
 A Sampler of Deciduous Shade Trees
Japanese maple (Acer palma/urn)
J a panese m a p l e (Acer palmatum)
Zones 5-8 ( 5- 1 1 W ) , 5-25 feet,
depending on variety. Regular water.
Small, graceful tree with dimin utive
habit and bright red, orange, or yel­
low fall color. Excellent for small
spaces and pots. Prefers some shade
in hot summer areas. Many named
varieties are available, incl uding
those with lacy foliage, red or varie­
gated leaves, or weeping h<lbit.
Red maple (Acer rubrum) Zones
3-9, 50-70 feet . Regular to moderate
water. Fast growing, upright tree
with lobed leaves that turn glorious
shades of red in fall. 'Armstrong',
'October Glory', and 'Red Sunset'
are popular varieties. Good shade
tree over a wide range of growing
conditions.
Red h o rsechestnut (Aesculus
carneal Zones 4-8, 30-40 feet .
Regular water. Round-headed with
large, dark green leaves that cast
dense shade. Bears 8-inch-long
plumes of soft pink to red flowers
310 CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLANTS
Red maple (Acer rub rum)
in late spring. Useful as a specimen
tree. Popular varieties include
' B riotii' and 'O'Neill Red ' .
S i l k tree (Albizia julibrissen)
Deciduous, zones 6-9 ( 6- l O W ) ,
3 0 -4 0 feet. Regular water. Finely
divided, fernlike foliage folds up at
night. Flat-topped, spreading canopy
makes it a good patio tree. Fragrant
fluffy pink flowers bloom from late
spring through summer. Hardier
variety 'Rosea' has darker flowers.
S e rv i c e b e rry (Amelanchier) Zones
3-7 , 20-40 feet. Regular to moderate
water. A graceful, airy tree with
drooping clusters of white or
pinkish flowers in early spring fol­
lowed by edible berries. Foliage
casts light shade and turns fiery
orange to red in autumn. Bark is
smooth and silvery.
, River birch ( Betula nigra) Zones 3-9
( 3 - 1 1 W), 40-80 feet. Ample water.
Bark is pinkish on young trees,
brown and flaky on older ones.
Eastern redbud ( Cercis canadensis)
Bright yellow autumn foliage.
Tolerates poor or slow drainage
and hot, humid climates. Good
shade tree, which is usually sold in
multitrunk clumps. 'Heritage' is a
popular variety.
European white b i rch ( Betula pen­
dula) Zones 2-6 (2- 1 1 W ) , 3 0-4 0
feet. Ample water. Upright growth
with weeping side branches on
mature trees. Casts light shade
and has yellow fal.l foliage. White
bark on trunks and main limbs.
'Dalecarlica' has deeply cut leaves
and a weeping habit, 'Purpurea'
purplish twigs and leaves.
Eastern redbud ( Cercis canadensis)
Zones 5-9 ( 5 - 1 1 W ) , 25-35 feet.
Regular water. Attractive horizontal
branching and round-headed habit.
Pink to white early-spring flowers,
depending on va riety. Yellow
autumn foliage. 'Forest Pansy'
has purple foliage on reddish
branches. A n excellent patio or
specimen tree.
Flowering dogwood ( Comus florida)
Chitalpa ( Chitalpa tashkentensis)
Zones 6-9 (6-1 1 W ) , 20-30 feet.
Moderate to little water. Clusters of
frilly pink, white or lavender trum­
pet-shaped flowers from late spring
to fall. Good in desert areas and as a
patio tree where it casts light shade.
Varieties include 'Morning Cloud'
and 'Pink Dawn'.
Flowering dogwood ( Comus florida)
Zones 5-9, 20-30 feet. Regular
water. Horizontal branching with a
flat crown. White or pink flowers in
spring followed by red berries. Red
fall foliage. Many named varieties
offered differing mostly in flower
colors. Best in small spaces and in
partial shade.
Hawthorn ( Crataegus) Zones 4-8,
1 5-30 feet, depending on species.
Moderate water. Small trees known
for pretty white, pink, or red flower
clusters in spring and for showy,
small applelike fruit that persist into
winter. Many species are available,
most are multi-trunked and have
Hawthorn ( Crataegus viridus 'Winter King')
thorny branches, and orange to red
or purple aUlUmn foliage. The east­
ern U .S. native green h'lwthorn
( c. viridis), is one of the best.
Russian olive ( Elaeagnus angustifolia)
Zones 2-8, 20 feet. Regular to little
water. Fast-growing tree with silvery­
green foliage that tolerates seashore
and dry conditions. Often thorny and
can be pruned into an excellent hedge
or barrier. Fragrant, small greenish
yellow flowers in early summer. Can
be invasive.
Green ash (Fraxinus pennsylvanica)
Zones 3-9, 50-60 feet. Regular to
moderate water. Moderately fast·
growing shade trees that tolerate hot
summers and cold winters. Oval to
upright pyramid shape and glossy
divided leaves. Varieties include
'Marshall', 'Patmore', and 'Summit'.
In the West, use F oxycarpa
'Raywood. '
G i nkgo ( Ginkgo biloba) Zones 4-8
(4- 1 1 W), 3 5-80 feet. Regular to
A SAMPLER
Ginko ( Ginkgo biloba)
moderate water. Fan-shaped leaves
turn gold in autumn. Form and
growth rate vary by variety from
narrow and upright to broad and
spreading. TI·ouble-free for use as a
street tree or in lawns. Good vari­
eties include 'Autumn Gold',
'Fairmount', and 'Princeton Sentry'.
Thornless honeyloc ust ( Gleditsia
triacanthos inermis) Zones 4-9,
3 5-70 feet. Regular to moderate
water. Grows quickly upright with
spreading branches. Bright green,
fernlike leaves cast light shade.
Tolerates a wide range of growing
conditions. Good varieties include
'Shadel11 aster' and 'Skyline'.
Goldenrain tree ( Koelreuteria
paniculata) Zones 5-9, 30--40 feet.
Regular to moderate water. Open
branching pattern and 1 5 -inch-long
divided leaves provide light shade.
Very showy, fragrant yellow flower
clusters appear in early to midsum­
mer followed by lantern-like fruits
that mature from red to buff or
O F DECIDUOUS SHADE TREES 31 1
 A Sampler of Deciduous Shade Trees
Crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica)
brown. Chinese flame tree (K. btpin­
nata) is showier but hardy to zone 8.
Crape myrtle ( Lagerstroemia indica)
Zones 6-9, 20 feet, but variable.
Moderate water. Habit varies from
shrublike to tree depending on vari­
ety and pruning. All have dark green
leaves, which often turn orange or
red in fall, and clusters of crinkled,
crepe-papery white, pink to purple,
or red flowers. Smooth bark is
attractively mottled.
Sweet gum ( Liquidambar
styraciflua) Zones 5-9 ( 5-1 1 W ) ,
60-7 5 feet. Regular to moderate
water. N arrow and erect when
young, becoming more rounded
with age. Lobed leaves turn purple,
yellow, or red in autumn. Attractive
branching pattern and bristly fruits
add winter interest. Plant where
shallow roots won't in terfere with
lawn or raise pavement. 'Cherokee'
doesn't make seedpods; 'Burgundy'
and 'Palo Alto' offer bright red
fall color.
312 CHOOSING THE RIGHT
Flowering crabapple ( Malus)
Tu l i p tree ( Liriodendron tulipifera)
Zones 4-9 (4- 1 1 W ) , 60-90 feet.
Regular water. Straight, columnar
trunk with spreading branches that
[oml a tall pyramidal head. Tuliplike
flowers appear in the branches in
late spring. Glossy green leaves tum
bright yellow i n autumn. Useful as a
shade tree.
S a u c e r m a gn o l i a ( Magnolia soulan­
giana) Zones 4-9, 20-30 feet.
Regular water. White, pink, or pur­
ple goblet-shaped flowers bloom
before the large leaves unfurl in
early spring. Late frosts frequently
damage buds and blossoms. Choose
late-blooming varieties such as
'Alexandrina' o r 'Lennei'. Star mag­
nolia (Magnolta stellata) has spread­
ing star-shaped flowers and grows
up to 20 feet tall. Many varieties.
Flowering craba p p l e ( Malus) Zones
4-8, 6-40 feet, depending on variety.
Regular to moderate water. White,
pink, or red spring flowers and per­
sistent red to yellow fruit make iliese
P LA N TS
Tupelo ( Nyssa sylvatica)
valuable for specimens, lawn trees,
and street trees. Hundred of vari­
eties exist, some with reddish
foliage. Growth habit ranges from
weeping to tound-headed to col­
umn-shaped. Choose disease-toler­
ant varieties, such as 'Donald
Wyman', 'Profusion ' , or 'Snowdrift'.
Sargent's crabapple and Japanese
flowering crabapple are natural
dwarfs, growing only about 8 to
10 feet tall and spreading up to
twice as wide.
Tupe l o ( Nyssa sylvatica) Zones 4-9,
3 0-50 feet. Regular to moderate
water. Pyramid-shaped when young,
becoming spreading and dramatic
with age. Glossy dark green leaves
tum yellow and orange, and then
bright red in autumn. Birds enjoy
the small fruits. Excellent specimen
or shade tree.
C h i n ese p i sta che ( Pistacia
chinensis) Zones 7-9 (7-10W),
3 0-60 feet. Moderate water. This
broadly rounded tree has good
Flowering cherry ( Prunus serrulata)
orange to red fall color even in mild
climates and tolerates a wide range
of soils, including alkahne types.
Very drought tolerant after it's estab­
lished. A reliable choice for street,
lawn, or patio plantings.
London p l a n e tree ( Platanus
acerifolia) Zones 5-8 ( 5- 1 1 \YJ),
30-70 feet . Regular water. Smooth,
cream-colored bark on upper trunk
and limbs look handsome in winter.
Grows somewhat slowly and toler­
ates city conditions, but drops messy
fruits. Disease-resistant varieties
include 'Columbia' and ' Liberty' .
Flowering cherry ( Prunus) Zones
4-9 (varies with species ) , 1 0-50 feet
(also variable). Regular to moderate
water. Prized for glorious spring
blossoms; many also have attractive
horizontal branching habits and
mahogany red bark. Many kinds are
available. Popular flowering cherries
include sargent (P sargenlii),
Japanese (P serrulala), and Higan
(P subhirlella).
P i n oak ( Quercus palustris)
Purplel eaf p l u m ( Prunus cerasifera)
Zones 5-9, 1 5-30 feet. Regular
water. Popular for its p u rplish red
leaves and small light pink to white
flowers. Form varies from upright
to round to spreading. Common
varieties include the dwarf 'Purple
Pony' and dark-leaved 'Krauter
Vesuvius'.
Flowe r i ng pear ( Pyrus calleryana)
Zones 5-8 (5-9\YJ l , 25-50 feet.
Regular water. Horizontal branching,
white flowers in early spring and
glossy green leaves that rurn purplish
red in fall combine to make this a
popular street and shade tree. Best
varieties include 'Aristocrat' and
'Chanticleer'. Evergreen pear ( P
kawakamiil h a s drooping branches
and white flowers in late winter. It
grows to 12-30 feet in zones 9-1 1 .
White oak ( Quercus alba) Zones
3-9, 5 0-80 feet. Regular water.
Pyramidal in youth, then grows
slowly to a round-headed or widely
spreading form . Leaves with
A SAMPLER
little-leaf linden ( Tilia cordata)
rounded lobes turn red to brown
in autumn. Other popular landscape
oaks include scarlet oak ( Q. coe­
o'n ea l , which has bright autumn
foliage, pyramid-shaped pin oak
( Q. paluslris), and narrow-leaved
willow oak ( Q. phellos).
G o l den trumpet tree ( Tabebuia
chrysotrichal Deciduous to partly
evergreen, zones 9-1 1 , 25-30 feet.
Regular water. Showy, trumpet­
shaped flowers in clusters appear in
spring. Use as patio or specimen
trees. Pink trumpet tree (T helem­
phyllal blooms later and is some­
times grown as a large shrub.
Little-leaf l i nden ( Tilia cordata)
Zones 3-8, 60-70 feet. Regular
water. A popular shade and street
t ree that forms a dense pyramid of
deep-green leaves. Fragrant white
flowers in early summer. Very toler­
ant of city conditions; takes pruning
to form large hedges. Improved
varieties include 'Chancellor',
'Glenleven ', and 'Greenspire'.
Of DECIDUOUS SHADE TREES 313
 A Sampler of Evergreen Trees
Deodar cedar (Cedrus deodara)
White fir (Abies concolor) Needled
evergreen, zones 4-8 (4- 1 1 W), 5 0-70
feet. Regular to moderate water.
Symmetrical, pyramid-shaped tree
with 2-inch-long, bluish green needles.
Good large screen. Best in cold-winter
climates.
Deodar cedar ( Cedrus deodara)
Needled evergreen , zones 7-8
(7-1 1 W ) , 40-80 feet. Moderate
water. Fast growing with a spread
of up to 40 feet at ground level.
Graceful pyramid shape with soft
texture. Needles may be green or
have a blue, gray, or yellow cast.
Suitable for hot, humid climates.
Citrus ( Citrus) Broadleaf evergreen,
zones 9-1 1 , 6-20 feet, depending on
variety. Regular water; full sun. One
of the finest ornamental edibles for
mild climates. Fragrant, white spring
flowers are followed by colorful,
edible fruit that hangs among deep
green foliage. Choose from oranges,
mandarins, grapefruit, lemons, and
limes, depending on local adaptation.
314 CHOOSING T H E R I G H T PLANTS
Leyland cypress ( Cupressocyparis leyandil)
Useful small trees for the patio.
Excellent in containers. Can be
clipped as hedges. Plant in well­
drained soil and fertilize regularly.
Ley l a n d cypress ( Cupressocyparis
leylandil) Needled evergreen, zones
6- 1 0 , 60-70 feet. Regular to moder­
ate water. Very fast growing with an
upright form. Useful for hedges and
screens. Varieties offer differing
foliage colors.
Arizona cypress ( Cupressus
arizonica) Needled evergreen, zones
7-9 (7- 1 1 W), 40-50 feet. Moderate
water. Broad pyramid shape with
green to blue-gray or silvery scale­
like leaves. Thrives in hot, dry cli­
mates. Useful windbreak and screen.
Italian cypress ( c. sempervirens)
grows very tall and narrow and is
useful in formal gardens.
Gum ( Eucalyptus) Broadleaf ever­
green, zones 9- 1 1 (varies with
species), 20-80 feet (also varies).
Regular to little water. Fast-growing
Southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora)
trees for hot climates. Many are
drought tolerant. Species with
attractive flowers include coral gum
(E. torquata) and red-flowering gum
(E. /talolia). Many have aromatic
ornamental foliage, including silver
dollar tree (E. clnerea and E.
polyantbemos) and willow-leaf
peppermint (E. nicbolii).
American h o l l y ( /lex opaca)
B roadleaf evergreen, zones 5-9
(5- 1 0W), 40-50 feet. Regular water.
Slow-growing pyramid to round­
headed tree has dark green leaves
with spiny margins. Bright red berries
appear on female trees and persist
into winter. Use as a specimen tree or
large screen. HlUldreds of varieties
exist, some with variegated leaves or
yellow berries.
S outhern magn o l i a ( Magnolia
grandiflora) Broadleaf evergreen,
zones 6-9 ( 6- 1 1 W), 60-80 feet.
Regular water. L a rge, glossy, green
leaves and huge, fragrant, white
flowers offer year-round beauty. A
Colorado blue spruce ( Picea pungens glauca)
popular tree that varies in shape
from spreading to upright, depend­
ing on variety. Its shallow roOts and
dense shade may defeat lawn
grasses.
Colorado b l u e spruce ( Picea
pungens glauca) Needled evergreen,
zones 3-7 0-9\X1) , 30-60 feet.
Regular to moderate water. Sttff.
horizontal branches spread up to 20
feet across at the base formtng a
broad pyramid. Needle color ranges
from dark green to steely blue. The
related dwarf Alberta spruce (Picea
glauca 'Conica') has softer, greener
needles and grows to only 7 feet.
Eastern white p i ne ( Pinus strobus)
Needled evergreen, zones 3-7,
50-100 feet. Regular water. Fast
growing with 4-inch-long, blue-green
needles and horizontal branChtng
that give the tree a soft texture.
Becomes broad and irregular with
age. Intolerant of salt and air pollu­
tion. Some varieties remain dwarf or
have weeping habits.
Eastern white pine ( Pinus strobus)
Japanese black pine ( Pinus
thunbergiana) Needled evergreen,
zones 5-8 ( 5-1O\XI), 20-40 feet or
more. Regular to little water.
Spreading branches form a broad,
conical tree that becomes irregular
and picturesque with age, often with
a leaning trunk. Dwarf varieties are
suitable for containers and bonsai.
Tolerates seacoast conditions.
Southern l i ve oak ( Quercus
virginiana) Broadleaf evergreen to
partly deciduous, zones 8-10, 40-80
feet. Regular water. Heavy-limbed
crown may spread twice as wide as
the tree's height. Commonly used as
a street tree and in parks and estates
throughout the South. Sheds old
leaves in spring before new leaves
emerge. Tolerates salt sp ray.
Coast redwood ( Sequoia
sempervirens) Needled evergreen,
zones 7-9 (7- 1 1 \XI), 60-90 feet or
more. Regular water. Forms a sym­
metrical pyramid of soft-looking,
feathery foliage. Straight trunk with
A SAMPLER
Japanese black pine ( Pinus thunbergiana)
horizontal limbs that curve up at tips
with drooping branchlets.
English yew ( Taxus baccata)
NeecUed evergreen, zones 6-7,
25-40 feet. Regular to moderate
water. Soft, flat, dark green needles
on wide-spreading branches that
form a low crown. Tolerates shade
and pruning; useful for hedges and
screens. Other common yews
include cold-hardy Japanese yew
(T cuspidata) and many hybrids.
Tall varieties include 'Capitata' and
'Fastigiata'.
Eastern arborvitae ( Thuja
occidentalis) Needled evergreen,
zones 3-7, 40-60 feet. Regular to
moderate water. Feathery juvenile
foliage becomes flat and scale-like,
forming sprays with age. Trees have
scaly brown bark and an open,
rounded canopy. Use for large
screens or prune into taU hedges.
Western red cedar (T plicata) grows
taller and retains its dark green color
through winter.
OF EVERGREEN TREES 315
Palms
S I G N AT U RE TREES OF THE T ROPIC S A N D N EAR-TROPI C S
Compared t o tall, single-tunked palms, clump-forming European fan palm
is low and graceful.
Few plants reflect the mild climates of
Florida and California the way that
palm trees do. But except for cabbage
palm in the Southeast and a few others,
most of the palms you see aren't native
to the United States. Canary Island
date palm, for example, comes from
the islands off northern Africa.
Surprisingly, many palms are cold-hardy.
Windmill palm, one of the hardiest, tolerates
temperatures as cold as 5°F. Many others can
withstand brief periods of freezing tempera­
tures, making them good candidates not only
for Florida and southern California, but also in
milder areas of the deep South and northern
California.
316 CHOOSING T H E RIGHT PLANTS
Although palms aren't suited t o every landscape,
they can shine in the right setting. They can line an
avenue, shade a deck, serve as accents, o r form an ever­
green backdrop. Some, such as lady palm and European
fan palm, stay shrublike for many years, thriving under
taller trees as well as in entryway plantings, mixed bor­
ders, and courtyards.
Palms are especially effective near swimming pools,
because they don't drop leaves and their roots don't
buckle paving. Fronds, whether fanlike or feathery,
reflect beautifully in the water, as do the curved trunks
of the Senegal date palm, which creates an atmosphere
reminiscent of the tropics.
When carefully placed, palms produce dramatic
effects. Night lighting, in particular, shows off their state­
liness and spectacular leaves. You can backlight them,
shine spotlights up on them from below, or direct lights
to silhouette them against a pale wall. Sunlight also casts
evocative shadow patterns onto walls.
So many different palms exist for the garden, it's
hard to keep up with them all. The modest array here
represents tried-and-true choices for just about anywhere
palms can be grown.
Palms are one of the few plants that can be easily
transplanted as large, mature specimens. Even tall plants
can be dug up, placed in relatively
small boxes, and transplanted with
almost certain success. Planting
specimen palms still usually requires
heavy equipment and expert help, but
it's one of the best ways of instantly
converting an empty garden into a
tropical paradise. Although expen­
sive, it may be worthwhile around a
large new pool or patio or as a stunning
focal point in the front yard.
• The best time for planting palms is in late
spring or early summer.
• When removing dead leaves, cut just above leaf
base and take care to not cut into the trunk.
 A Sampler of Palm Trees
K i n g p a l m (Archontophoenix cunninghamiana)
King p a l m (Archontophoenix
cunninghamiana) Zones t o-l l ,
20-40 feet but may grow u p to 60
feet in mildest climates. Eight- to
to-foot dark-green leaves; purple
flowers. Fast growing. Takes sOllle
frost when established. G rows best
out of wind; needs abundant water.
Not suited to desert landscapes.
Bamboo p a l m ( Chamaedorea) Zones
1 0-1 1 , 5-10-feet. Several species,
IllOSt with clumping, bamboolike
growth. All grow slowly. Frost tender;
needs ample water and a shady spot.
European (or M e d iterranean) fan
palm ( Chamaerops humi/is) Zones
8-1 1 , 20 feet. Blue-green or silver­
green leaves make this palm out­
standing. Forms clumps if not
pruned; endures baking sun and
drought. G rows slowly. Leaf stems
carry sharp spines.
C h i nese fan p a l m ( Livistona chinen­
sis) Zones 9- 1 1 , 1 5 feet. Strongly
drooping, dark green leaf tips resem-
Canary Island date palm ( Phoenix canariensis) Windmill palm (Trachycarpus fortunei)
ble a fountain. Remains trunkless for
years; develops a broad head. Makes
a fine patio palm when sheltered
from the wind and hot afternoon sun.
C a n a ry I s land date palm ( Phoenix
canariensis) Zones 9-1 1 , 60 feet.
Big, heavy-trunked plam with grace­
fully arching fronds that form crown
up to 50 feet wide. Young plants do
well in pots.
Senegal date palm ( Phoenix
rec/inata) Zones 9-1 1 , 20-30 feet.
Clumps grow from offshoots, with
several curving trunks. Remove
offshoots for single-trunked tree.
Pygmy date palm ( Phoenix roebe­
/eni!) Zones 9-1 1 , 6-30 feet. Soft,
feathery leaves; stem grows slowly to
6 feet. Wind resistant but tender and
suffers below 28°F. Silver date palm
( P sylveslris) is similar in shape, but
hardier and grows to 30 feet.
Lady palm ( Rhapis) Zones 9-1 1 ,
5 - 1 8 feet. Multiple stems bear dark
green, glossy le'lves. Makes good
screen but grows slowly. Requires
little pruning. R. excelsa grows 5-12
feet; R. bumzlis to 18 feet. Prefers
rich, moist soil and protection from
sun and drying winds.
Cabbage p a l m ( Saba/ palmetto)
Zones 9-1 1 , 90 feet. Single-trunked
and slow growing. Dense, round head
formed by leaves 5-8 feet across.
Tolerates wind, salt spray, and sand;
ideal for coastal gardens in the South.
Queen palm ( Syagrus romanzoffi­
anum) Zones 9- 1 1 , 30-50 feet. Lush
plumelike leaves 1 0- 1 5 feet long.
G rows quickly. Shelter from winds;
needs abundant water and fertilizer.
W i n d m i l l palm ( Trachycarpus
fortune!) Zones 7-1 1 , 3 0 feet. Stiff,
upright shape; hairy brown trunk.
Reaches 30 feet in warm-winter
areas; shorter elsewhere. Looks best
in groups of th ree or more. Fronds
get shabby in wind and must be
trimmed.
A SAMPLER Of PALM TREES 317

Shrubs
T H E G AROf N ' <'; B A C K BO N E
Just as a large sofa or bulky upholstered chair fills a
room, shrubs can add weight and substance to a land­
scape. They are permanent fixtures, altering t raffic flow
and framing views. Planted near a wal l , they create
attractive backdrops; set close together, they form a
living fence.
Like trees, shrubs are either deciduous or evergreen .
They grow in a variety of rounded, tapered, or fountain-
318 CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLANTS
Deciduous azaleas and rhododendrons combine with spring-flowering
bulbs i n a showstopping Pacific Northwest garden.
like shapes. Many shrubs, with their showy flowers,
fruits, or autLUllll fol iage, offer seasonal appeal. Some,
however, have decorative foliage throughout the growing
season. Others, such as daphnes, lilacs, and viburnums,
are valued primarily for their fragrance_
With hun dreds of shrubs available, one key to
success is to select only ones that suit your landscape's
climate, soil conditions, avaiJable sunlight, and water
resources. Azaleas and rhododendrons, for example,
thrive i n semishade and i n acidic soil that both retains
moisture and drains excess water fast.
M A I NTA I N I N G S H R U B S
Prune most flowering shrubs after their blossoms fade.
For example, prune a May.flowering lilac in June. Other
deciduous shrubs bring forth long stems each year from
the base and benefit from an early-spring removal of
some older stems. Most evergreens, however, can be
pruned at any time of year; exceptions are bloomers,
such as camellias, and pines such as mugho pine.
Shrubs that grow directly from the base, sending
up stems from the roots, can withstand severe pruning.
These include glossy abelia (Abelia grandt/lora ), bar­
berry (Berberis), forsythia, oleander, mock orange
( Philadelphus coronarius), spiraea, and common privet
(Ligustrum vulgare). Cut all growth back to the ground
before new spring growth begins. If the treatment is
successful, the plant will usually achieve its normal
height within several years. If you're not sure whether
a shrub can take such drastic pruning, carry out a four·
year program. Do no cutting the first year-just water
and fertilize well to make the plant as healthy as possi·
ble. Over the next three years, remove about a third of
the oldest stems in spring, pruning them back to the
ground just before growth begins.
S A LVAG I N G O L D S H R U B S
If you move into a house with a landscape filled with
overgrown shrubs, try a salvage operation before just
taking them out.
Pr u n i n g a M o c k O ra n ge
o S hr u b is overcrowded a n d needs 8 Cut out the oldest and weakest
stems at their base, in spring after
thinning to rem a i n vigorous.
flowering.
Transform a farge shrub with upright main stems (left) into a multi·
trunked small tree (right) by removing side stems.
If a shrub has one or more upright stems and a
framework of side branches, convert it to a small tree by
removing the lower side branches. Remove side stems on
the trunk up to the point where you want the branching
to begin, and then thin those that remain to form an
uncluttered crown. If the shrub has several good stems,
you can leave them all.
If you don't want to t ransform an overgrown shrub
into a tree, you can lower it. Each year, cut about a third
of the highest branches back halfway. Most will sprout
new growth at the lower level. After you've achieved a
smaller shrub with vigorous young growth, thin out any
weak, badly placed, or crowding shoots.
• Maintain best flowering of most shrubs by selectively
removing a few of the oldest stems each year.
• Prune spri ng-floweri ng shrubs after flowers fade.
• Prune sum mer-flowering shrubs i n early spring.
e Remove least productive canes
every year, and the shrub will produce
more flowers and be more attractive.
SHRUBS 319
 A Sampler of Shrubs
Japanese barberry ( Berberis fhunbergil)
G l o ssy a b e l i a (Abelia grandiflora)
Evergreen [0 semievergreen, zones
6-9 (6- 1 1 W) , 5- 1 0 feet . Regular
water; full sun to light shade. White
to light pink flowers in summer and
fall. Small, oval, glossy leaves cover
graceful, arching branches. Use in
borders and near houses.
J a panese a u c u b a (Aucuba japonica)
Evergreen, zones 7 - 1 0 (7- 1 1 W ) ,
6-1 0 feet. Moderate water; shade t o
deep shade. Grown for i t s attractive
green or variegated gold leaves and
ability to grow in deep shade, even
under trees. Useful in patio tubs or
indoors. Popular varieties include
'Gold Dust' and 'Mr. Goldstrike'.
J a pa nese barberry ( Berberis
thunbergit) Deciduous, zones 4-8
(4- 1 1 W ) , 4-6 feet. Regular to mod­
erate water; full sun to light shade.
Slender arching branches are
covered with sharp spines and small
oval leaves that turn yellow to crim­
son i n autumn. Red berries persist
into winter. Many varieties with
320 CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLANTS
Butterfly bush ( Buddleia davidi/)
differing leaf colors and growth
habits, such as golden ' Aurea' and
bronze 'Crimson Pygmy'.
Butterfly bush ( Buddleia davidil)
Deciduous, zones 5-9 (5- 1 1 W),
5 - 1 5 feet. Regular to moderate
water; full sun to light shade. Spiky
6- to 1 2 -inch clusters of small, fra­
grant, white to p urple blooms
appear in midsummer, attracting
many butterflies. Vigorous with wil­
lowlike leaves. Many varieties,
including 'Nanho Blue' .
J a p a n es e boxwood ( Buxus micro­
phyl/a) Evergreen, zones 5-8
(5-1 1 W), 1 5-20 feet. Regular water;
sun or shade. One of the most widely
planted shrubs for formal hedges and
edging. Dense foliage of lustrous,
dark green oval leaves. Many vari­
eties and hybrids, including 'Winter
Gem' and 'Winter G reen ' .
Lemon bottlebrush ( Callistemon citri­
nus) Evergreen , zones 8-1 1 , 1 0- 1 5
feet. Regular t o moderate water; full
Lemon bottlebrush (Callisfemon cifrinus)
sun. Massive shrub that can be
trained into a small tree. Bright red, 6-
inch-long brushy flower spikes attract
hummingbirds throughout the year.
S c otch heather ( Cal/una vulgaris)
Evergreen, zones 4-7, 1-3 feet.
Regular water; full sun. Spikes of
purple, pink, or white flowers from
summer [0 fall. Foliage color is
mostly dark green, but can vary.
Many varieties turn reddish in cold
winters. Prefers cool, moist summers
and acidic soils. Can be used as a
ground cover.
C a m e l l i a ( Camellia japonica)
Evergreen , zones 7-9 ( 7- 1 1 W), 6-12
feet. Regular to moderate water;
light shade. Large showy blooms
from autumn through spring and
leathery, deep green glossy foliage
make these very popular shrubs for
patio containers and display gardens.
Many species and thousands of vari­
eties with differing flowers and
growth habits. Especially useful are
the sasanqua camellias (c. sasanqua),
California lilac ( Ceanothus 'Julia Phelps')
upright or spreading plants that
bloom from fall inro winter. Flower
form and color are similar ro
Japanese camellia. Use low-growing
varieties as ground covers.
Nata l p l u m ( Carissa grandifJora)
Evergreen, zones 1 0- 1 1 , 2-7 feet.
Little ro regular water; full sun ro
light shade. Dependable flowering
shrub for mild-winter areas. Srar­
shaped, fragrant, white flowers
bloom nearly year-round, followed
by edible bright red fruit. Can be
used as a low hedge or ground cover.
Varieties differ in habit and height.
B l uebeard ( Caryopteris clandonen­
sis) Deciduous, zones 4-9 (4-1 1 \Y!),
2-3 feet . Moderate water; full sun.
Compact, mounding shrub with a
long season of summer flower color
in various shades of blue that lasts
into fall. Some varieties have grayish
leaves. Fine as a small border or
mixed with perennials. Keep plant
compact by cutting back ro 6 inches
in winter.
Flowering quince ( Chaenomeles)
C a l ifornia l i l a c ( Ceanothus)
Evergreen, zones 9-1 1 \Y!, 1-12 feet or
more, depending on species. Little or
no water; full sun. Mosrly California
natives valued for their blue or white
spring flowers, dark green foliage,
and ability to thrive with lirrle water.
Excellent for slopes and native gar­
dens. Many species and varieties to
choose from. Shrubby types include
'Dark Star' , (6 feet high, rich blue
flowers) 'Joyce Coulter', (5 feet
'
high), and 'Julia Phelps' (7 feet tall,
dark indigo flowers).
Flowering q u i n c e ( Chaenomeles)
Deciduous, zones 5-9, 3- J 0 feet.
Regular water; full sun. One of the
earliest shrubs ro bloom in spring.
Mostly red or pink flowers are borne
on upright, thorny bare branches.
Can be clipped as a hedge. Many
varieties to choose from, varying in
height and flower color.
Rockrose ( Cistus) Evergreen, zones
9-1 1 \Y!, 2-5 feet, depending on
species. Moderate ro little water; full
Redtwig dogwood ( Comus slolonifera)
sun. Carefree shrubs that bloom
profusely in spring and require
little water. Tolerant of seaside and
desert conditions.
Redtwig dogwood (Comus stolonifera)
Deciduous, zones 2-7 (2-9\Y!), 7-9
feet. Regular water; full sun to Light
shade. Vigorous, bright-red stems
contrast in winter with snowy land­
scape. Creamy white flowers in sum­
mer, bluish fruits, red autumn
foliage. Good for informal borders
and barriers. Some varieties have
yellow stems or variegated leaves.
Smoke tree ( Cotinus coggygria)
Deciduous, zones 4- 1 0 (4- 1 1 \Y!),
12-15 feet, sometimes taller.
Moderate to little water; full sun.
Tiny green flower clusters transform
into purplish puffs, giving the whole
plant the look of a cloud of smoke in
summer, hence the name. Most vari­
eties also have purplish foliage that
turns yellow, orange, or red in fall.
Usually grown as a tall, upright
shrub but can be kept small.
A SAMPLER OF SHRUBS 32 1
 A Sampler of Shrubs
Parney cotoneaster ( Cotoneaster lacteus)
Parney c ot o n e a ster ( Cotoneaster
lacteus) Evergreen , zones 7-9
(7-1 1W), 8-1 0 feet. Moderate water;
fuU sun. Graceful, arching habit with
dark green leaves, clusters of white
flowers, and persistent red fruit. Use
as informal hedge or screen.
W i nter d a p h ne ( Daphne odora)
Evergreen, zones 7-9 ( 7-1 1 W ) , 4-8
feet. Regular to moderate water; full
sun with midday shade. Prized for
fragrant clusters of pink to red flow­
ers and neat growth habit. Narrow
glossy leaves. 'Aureo-marginata'
has gold-edged foliage.
S l e n d e r d e utzia (Deutzia gracilis)
Deciduous, zones 5-8, 2-5 feet high.
Moderate water; fuJi sun to light
shade. Showy, fragrant, white flowers
on gracefully arching stems in spring.
Can be clipped as a hedge. 'Nikko'
bears double flowers on a dwarf
shrub and has burgundy faJi color.
H o p bush ( Dodonaea viscosa)
Evergreen, zones 8-1 1 W, 12-15 feet.
322 CHOOSING T H E RIGHT P L A N TS
Slender deutzia (Deutzia gracilis)
Regular to little water; full sun to
light shade. Rugged, dependable
shrub with a billowy habit. Most
widely grown are pu rple-leaved
varieties, such 'Purpurea ' , which
need full sun to retain color. Can
get by with little water. Very USeflU
screen or accent.
S i lverb erry ( Elaeagnus pungens)
Evergreen, zones 6-9 ( 6- 1 1 W J , 6-1 5
feet. Regular t o little water; full sun
to part shade. Gray-green leaves
with wavy edges on spiny branches.
A tough shrub useful in containers
and hot, windy areas. Seve raJ
varieties have variegated foliage.
Heath ( Erica) Evergreen, zones 4-8,
6-1 8 inches. Consistent, careful
watering; full sun except in hottest
climates. SmaJl, needlelike leaves and
abundant smaJI flowers throughout
the year, depending on species.
Many hardy, low-growing varieties
good for borders an d ground covers.
Larger species range i n size up to 1 0
feet or more.
Heath ( Erica cinerea)
Esc a l l o n i a ( Escal/onia exoniensis)
Evergreen, zones 7- 1 1 W, 5 - 1 0 feet.
Regular water; full sun in cool
summer climates, part shade in
warmer areas. A colorful shrub
particularly useful in coastal areas
of the western United States. Rosy
pink flowers a ppear among glossy,
dark green leaves almost year­
round. Can be trimmed as a hedge.
' Frades' and other varieties have
more compact habit, rarely growing
over 6 feet tall.
Evergreen e u o n ymus ( Euonymus
japonicus) Evergreen, zones 7-9,
8-10 feet. Regular to moderate
water; full sun. Very glossy, smaJl,
leathery, deep-green leaves. Upright
growth often prwled into formaJ
hedges. Many varieties with varying
leaf color and size, such as
'Microphylla Variegata' and 'Silver
King'. Evergreen wintercreeper
(E. !ortzmei), has a creeping o r low
shrubby habit and is hardy to zone
4. Many varieties with yellow or
white variegated leaves like
Burning bush (Euonymus alatus)
'Emerald 'n' Gold ' . Some rurn pur­
plish in fall and winter.
B u r n i ng bush ( Euonymus alatus)
Deciduous, zones 4-8, 1 5-20 feeL
Regular [Q moderate water; full sun .
Stems have corky ridges, leaves rurn
flaming red tn autumn. Growth is
upright with horizontal branching.
Use for hedges, screens, near houses.
'Compacta' stays smaller and more
compact. Can be invasive.
Forsythia ( Forsythia intermedia)
Deciduous, zones 4-8 (4-9W), 7-10
feet. Regular [Q moderate water; full
sun. Fountain-shaped shrubs are
covered in bright yellow flowers in
early spring. Use in informal bor­
ders and for screens. Many varieties
with varytng hardiness. Most cold­
hardy include 'Meadowlark' and
'Nonhern Sun'.
Gardenia ( Gardenia augusta)
Evergreen, zones 8- 1 0 (8- 1 1 W), 1-8
feet. Regular water; light shade.
White, intensely fragrant flowers
Forsythia ( Forsythia intermedia)
contrast with shiny, dark green
leaves. Grow in pots on patios and
in green houses. Popular varieties
include 'Golden Magic' and
'Mystery'.
Witch hazel ( Hamamelis
intermedia) Deciduous, zones 5 -9,
12-15 feet or more. Regular warer:
sun [Q light shade. Delicate, wonder­
fully fragrant, yellow to sometimes
reddish flowers appear on bare
branches in early spring. Leaves rurn
gold in fall. Looks best with a dark
green background. Plant where the
fragrance can be enjoyed.
Tro p i c a l h i biscus ( Hibiscus rosa­
sinensis) Evergreen, zones 10-1 1 ,
4-15 feet. Regular water; full sun.
Showy trumpet-shaped flowers in
all colors p roduced throughout the
summer. Glossy dark green foliage
in all seasons. Use for hedge or
accent planting. Hundreds of vari­
eties. Deciduous rose of sharon
( H. syriacus), has smaller flowers
and is hardy in zones 5-8.
Oakleaf hydrangea ( Hydrangea quercifolia)
Garden hydrangea ( Hydrangea
macrophy/la) Deciduous, zones 6--9
(6--1 1 W), 4-12 feeL Regular water;
full sun [Q parr shade. Large, thick,
coarsely toothed leaves and rounded
growth habit. Round or flat-topped
pink, blue, or white flower clusters
up [Q 12 inches across. Many varieties
available for containers and land­
scape accents. Oakleaf hydrangea
(H. quem/olia) grows 3-6 feet and
has very attractive oaklike foliage that
turns crimson in fall.
Ch inese h o l l y ( /lex cornuta)
Evergreen, zones 7-9 ( 7- 1 1 W),
6-20 feet, depending on variety.
Regular to moderate water; full sun
to partial shade. Leathery, glossy
leaves with spines and large, bright
red, long-lasting berries. Varieties
that produce berries without a male
polJinator include 'Burfordii',
'Dazzler', and 'Dwarf Burford ' .
Many varieties a n d hybrids with
differing growth habits, hardiness,
berry abundance and color, and
foliage. Popular hybrids include
A SAMPLER OF SHRUBS 323
 A Sampler of Shrubs
Winterberry ( /lex vertici/lata)
'Foster's', 'Nellie R. Stevens', and
the Meserve varieties 'Blue Girl'
and 'China Girl' (zone 4 ) . Other
important species lack spiny leaves,
including Japanese holly (1. crenata),
yaupon holly (1 vomltorlal, and
inkberry (I. glabra \
W i nterberry ( flex verticil/ata)
Deciduous, zones 3-9 (3-8W), 6-1 0
feet. Regular water; full sun to light
shade. Large crops of very showy
red berries persist on female plants
into winter and are prized by birds.
Tidy oval, dark green leaves. Plant
one male for every few female
shrubs and choose varieties adapted
to your climate. Good female
varieties include 'Afterglow',
'Sparkleberry', and 'Winter Red'.
J u n i per (Juniperus) Needled ever­
green, zones 2-9 (2- 1 1 W ) , 1 - 1 0
feet. Regular t o moderate water; full
sun to light shade. Widely used and
diverse group of landscape shrubs
prized for ground covers, borders,
planting near houses, and large
324 CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLANTS
Juniper (Juniperus chinensis)
groupings. Many kinds with varying
foliage color and growth habits.
Popular shrubs include Chinese
j uniper (]. chlnensis) 'Hetzii', 'Old
Gold', 'Pfitzerana', and 'Sea Green';
Rocky Mountain juniper (T. scopulo­
rum) 'Wichita Blue'; and singleseed
juniper (]. squamata ' Blue Star') .
Columnar types grow strongly
upright and narrow and include ].
chlnensis 'Spartan' and ]. vlrglnlana
'Skyrocket' .
Wax leaf privet ( L igustrum
japonicum) Evergreen, zones 7-9
( 7- 1 1 W ) , 1 0- 1 2 feet. Regular water;
fuiJ sun to partial shade. Compact
growth and thick, glossy leaves make
it useful for hedges and screens.
Deciduous privets (L. amurense,
L. ovalz/ollum, and L. vulgare) are
popular hedge plants in zones 4-7.
Growth habit and leaf color varies.
Vicary golden privet (L. vicaryl) has
yeiJow leaves.
C h i nese fringe flower ( Loropetalum
chinense) Evergreen, zones 7-9
Wax leaf privet ( L igustrum japonicum)
(7-1 1 W ) , 5-1 0 feet. Regular water;
full sun to part shade. Neat, compact
habit with arching tiered branches.
Delicate-looking white flower clus­
ters appear throughout bloom sea­
son, especiaJly in spring. Variety
'Rubrum' has pink bloom and
purplish leaves.
Oregon grape ( Mahonia aquifolium)
Evergreen, zones 5-9 ( 5- 1 1 W), 3-6
feet. Moderate to little water; full
sun to shade. Long, spiny-toothed
leaves turn purplish to bronze in
winter. Clusters of flowers mature to
edible blue-black fruit. 'Compacta'
grows to only 2 feet but spreads into
broad colonies.
Wax myrtle ( Myrica cerifera)
Evergreen, zones 8-1 1 , 1 0-20 feet.
Regular water; full SWl to partial
shade. Glossy, dark green leaves are
aromatic. Waxy grayish white berries
used for candle-making. Deciduous
bayberry (M. pensylvanlca) is similar,
but hardy in zones 3-6. Use for
hedges and screens.
Mock orange (Philadelphus virginalis)
Heavenly bamboo ( Nandina
domestica) Evergreen , zones 6-9,
6-8 feet. Regular to moderate water;
sun or shade. Lightly branched,
canelike stems and fine· textured,
lacy foliage. Excellent leaf color
from pink to red when young, soft
green changi.ng to bronze and purple
in fall. White flower clusters in early
summer. Dwarf purple ' Nan a', vari·
ety grows only 1-2 feet tall.
O l eander ( Nerium oleander)
Evergreen, zones 8-1 1 , 8-1 2 feet.
Regular to little water; full sun.
Narrow, 4 · to 1 2 . inch.long, dark
green leathery leaves are attractive
year· round. White, yellow, pink, and
red flower clusters from spring into
autumn. Many varieties. Use for
screens, borders, and contai.ners. All
plant parts are poisonous.
Sweet o l ive ( Osmanthus fragrans)
Evergreen, zones 9-1 0 , 6-1 0 feet.
Regular to moderate water; fu.ll sun
to partial shade. Tiny white, power­
fully fragrant flowers in spring to
Japanese pieris ( Pieris japonica)
early summer. Glossy, oval- to hoUy­
shaped .:J-inch leaves. Forms a broad,
dense hedge or screen with pruning.
Also good in containers.
M o c k orange ( Philadelphus
virginalis) Deciduous, zones 4-8,
6- feet. Regular to moderare
water; panial shade in hottest
areas. White, very fragrant flowers
in early summer. Fountain-sh aped
growth habit with medium green
foliage. Use as background plant
or choose smaller va riety, such as
' Dwarf Snowflake', for foundation
plantings.
Red tip photinia ( Photinia frasert)
Evergreen, zones 7-9 (7-1 1 \XI), 1 0-15
feet. Regular to moderate water; full
sun. Five-inch, bright bronzy oval new
leaves mature to dark green. Valuable
as a foliage plant and for clusters of
white flowers.
Japanese pieris ( Pieris japonica)
Everg reen, zones 5-8, 9- 1 0 feet.
Regular water; shade, especially in
Mugho pine ( Pinus mugu mugo)
afternoon. Whorls of leathery nar­
rowly oval leaves are red to bronze
when new, maturing to green .
Drooping clusters of white to nearly
red flowers emerge from red buds.
Use in containers and shady wood­
land landscapes. Varieties include
'Mountain Fire' and 'Tem ple Bells' .
M ugho pine ( Pinus mugo mugo)
Needled evergreen, zones 3-7
(3-1 1 W), 4-20 feet, depending on
variety. Regular water; full sun. Stiff,
1 - to 2-inch-long needles densely
cover the branches of this slow­
growing mounded shrub. Use in
containers and borders.
Tobira ( Pittosporum tobira)
Evergreen, zones 8-1 1 , 1 0- 1 5 feet.
Regular to moderate water; full
sun to partial shade. Leathery, nar­
rowly elliptical, shiny dark green
leaves form dense whorls. White
flower clusters in spring. Tolerant
of seacoast conditions. 'Variegata'
has gray-green white-edged foliage.
A S A M P LE R O F S H R U B S 325
 A Sampler of Shrubs
Cinquefoil ( Potentilla fruticosa)
Yew pine ( Podocarpus macrophyllus
makt) Evergreen , zones 8-1 1 , 6-8
feet. Eegular to moderate water; full
sun or partial shade. Grows slowly
into a dense, upright form. Narrow
3 - inch leaves. Excellent in containers
and for low hedges.
Cinquefoil ( Potentilla fruticosa)
Deciduous, zones 2-6 (2-9W) ,
1-4 feet. Moderate water; afternoon
shade in hot climates. Yellow, pink,
or white single or double roselike
flowers bloom from late spring to
early fall. Trouble-free shrub with
divided, green to gray-green
leaves. Popular varieties include
'Abbotswood' (white) , 'Floppy
Disc' ( double pink ) , and
'Goldfinger' (yellow) .
English l a urel ( Prunus
laurocerasus) Evergreen, zones
7-10, 5 - 1 2 feet but often taller.
Eegular water; full sun to partial
shade ( in hot sUlll m er areas). Very
useful hedge, screen, or background
plant with clusters of small, fra-
326 CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLANTS
Firethorn ( Pyracantha)
grant , white flowers and rich green
leaves. Bears small black fruit.
Dwarf varieties, like ' Nan a' and
'Ono Luyken' , are most widely
grown.
Fi rethorn ( Pyracantha) Evergreen,
zones 5-9 (5- 1 1 W ) , 2-1 5 feet ( both
zone and height depending on
variety) . Moderate water; full sun .
Grown for its spring flowers and
bright red, orange, or yellow fruits
and its deep green foliage. All
forms have small, glossy leaves, and
most have needlelike thorns. Cold
hardiness varies, so ask before pur­
chase. Grow or train against a wall
or fence.
Indian hawthorn ( Rhaphiolepis
indica) Evergreen, zones 8-9
( 8- 1 1 W ) , 3-5 feet. Regular to mod­
erate water; full sun to light shade.
Clusters of smail, white to pinkish
blooms from early winter to late
spring. New growth is bronzy red,
maturing to glossy dark green.
Grow as a low hedge.
Rhododendron ( Rhododendron 'PJM')
Aza l ea s a n d r h o d o d e n d rons
( Rhododendron) Evergreen and
deciduous, zones 3-9 ( 3 - 1 0W),
2-1 5 feet. Regular water, filtered
shade. A large and variable group
that includes more than 800 species
and countless varieties. All are
grown for their spectacular clusters
of blooms in white and many shades
of pink, red, purple, yellow, salmon,
and peach. Evergreen types have
thick, glossy leaves. Deciduous
species often have red to orange fall
foliage. Nearly all demand moist,
acidic soii. Grow in containers, near
houses, and in woodland landscapes.
Roses ( Rosa) Many roses make
excellent landscape shrubs which are
useful in borders, and as edgings
and hedges. For more information,
see page 354.
Rosemary ( Rosmarinus officinalis)
Evergreen, zones 7-8 (7- 1 1 W ) , 2-8
feet. Moderate to little water; full
sun. Dense, needlelike, 1 - inch-long
highly aromatic leaves are useful in
Spiraea ( Spiraea vanhouttei)
cooking. Trailing to upright growth
habit varies with variety. Useful as a
ground cover, low border, or hedge,
depending upon variety.
Sweet box ( Sarcococca) Evergreen,
zones 6-8 ( 6- 1 1 \'<1), 1-5 feet.
Regular to moderate water; partial to
full shade. Prized for handsome dark
green, waxy foliage and tiny but very
fragrant white flowers that bloom in
late winter to early spring. Slow
growing and needs rich soil. Useful
in shaded areas under trees and
house overhangs, or on the north
side of your house.
S p i raea ( Spiraea) Deciduous, zones
3-8 (3-1 0\'<1), 1-6 feet, variable.
Regular to moderate water; full sun
to light shade. Popular for clusters
of white, pink, or reddish flowers in
spring, summer, or sometimes, fall.
Bridal wreath forms have long, arch­
ing branches covered with white
flowers. Mounding types form lower,
rounded shrubs. Most common
species are 5. japonica and 5. van-
lilac ( Syringa vulgaris)
bouttei. Popular varieties include
'Anthony \'\Iaterer', 'Froebel' ,
'Goldflame', 'Little Princess' , and
'Shi tobana'.
L i l a c ( Syringa) Deciduous, zones
3-9, 6-20 feet. Regular water; light
shade in hot areas. Multistemmed
shrubs cherished for showy, usual.ly
fragrant flowers clustered at stem
tips in early to late spring. French
lilac (5. vulgarts) has hundreds of
varieties differing in cold- and heat­
hardiness, flower color, and bloom
period. Lilacs with smaller leaves
and more compact habits include
meyer (5. meyeril, littleleaf lilac
(5. micropbyllal, and 'Miss Kim'
(5. patula). I n mild winter regions of
California, choose Descanso hybrids.
Vi burnum ( Viburnum) Deciduous
and evergreen; zones and height
variable. Regular water; ful.l sun or
part shade. A large and diverse
group, including more than 1 50
evergreen and deciduous species
and countless varieties. All bear
Viburnum ( Viburnum plicatum tomentosum)
clustered, sometimes fragrant flow­
ers often followed by brightly col­
ored fruits. Some have attractive
horizontal branching or colorful
autumn foliage. Useful near patios
and as screens, hedges, and speci­
mens. Popular deciduous species
include Burkwood viburnum
( V burkwoodii), Korean spice
viburnum ( V carlesii), Japanese
snowball viburnum (V plica/um),
doublefile viburnum ( V plica/um
/omel1/osum), tea viburnum ( V
setigerum), and dwarf cranberry ( V
trilobum 'Compactum'). Evergreen
species include sweet viburnum
( V awabukii), leatherleaf ( V rby/ido­
pbyllum), and laurustinus ( V linus).
Xylosma ( Xylosma congestum)
Evergreen, zones 8-1 1 , 1 0- 1 2 feet
tall. Moderate water; full SWl to par­
tial shade. Attractive foliage shrub
with bronzy-green new growth that
gradually turns shiny light green.
Arching natural habit makes an
attractive screen; can be clipped
as a hedge.
A SAMPLER OF SHRU BS 327
Vines
FOR TREL L I S E S , ARBORS , A N D WAL L S
Cloaking brick walls o f Ivy League colleges o r low stone walls around a
house, Boston ivy is noted for brilliant fall colors.
Whether framing an entry, draping a pillar, or j ust
rambling along the ground, vines can bring dazzling
color to any landscape. The fast growth of many vines
makes them ideal plants for temporary screens and per­
manent structures alike. They can cover a large area,
such as a fence, or weave a delicate tracery on a wall in
a small garden. Trailing vines can be planted in hanging
containers on a small deck or balcony to shield the space
from view. And because many vines are evergreen or fea­
ture variegated foliage and decorative fruits, they can
provide year-round interest.
Not only do vines have a softening effect on walls,
but they also greatly improve the appearance of other
landscape structures, such as arbors, gazebos, and
spa surrounds. Keep in mind that plants climbing on
328 CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLANTS
vertical supports need less frequent pruning than those
that are trained horizontally. The latter tend to bloom
more heavily, however, because their stems are more
exposed to sunlight.
Other than the fact that all have long, pliable stems
(when they're young, in any case), vines differ greatly. They
may be evergreen, semievergreen, or deciduous; they may
be modest in size or rampant enough to engulf trees or
scale high walls. Many grow well in ordinary garden soil
with an annual springtime application of fertilizer, but a
few need rich, well-amended soil and regular fertilizer
throughout the growing season. Some require ample
moisture, but a great many perform well with little addi­
tional water after they're established.
Climate preferences vary, too, so always match your
climate zone (see page 299) to the vines you want to grow.
Many are native to semitropical parts of the world and
cannot tolerate cold temperatures. Some remain lush and
green all year where winters are mild, but drop their
foliage or die to the ground during winter in colder areas.
Some vines are well behaved in temperate zones but grow
with great vigor in warmer regions, overwhelming their
support (and possibly the entire garden).
H O W V I N ES C L I M B
The particular way each vine climbs determines what
sort of support you'll need to provide.
Twi n i ng v i n e s As these vines grow, their stems twist and
spiral. They coil too tightly to grasp large supports, such
as posts, so give them something slender, such as cord or
wire. To cover a wood fence with fiveleaf akebia (Akebia
quinata), for example, string wire up and down the fence
through eyes crews attached at 6- to 8-inch intervals.
V i n e s w i t h tendri l s or c o i l i n g leafsta l k s Tendrils are
specialized plant parts growing from the end of a leaf or
the side of a stem. They grow straight until they contact
something they can grasp-wire or cord, another stem
on the same vine, another plant-then reflexively con­
tract into a spiral and wrap arowld the support. Vines
that climb by tendrils include grape and sweet pea
( LathJlrus odoratus) .
 TWINING STEM TENDRILS
C l i ng i n g vines If any kind of vine gives the whole group
a bad name, it's the clinging sort, which adhere tena·
ciously to almost any flat surface. Specialized structures
let them grip their supports. Some, such as trumpet vine
(Campsis) and ivy ( Hedera), have stems equipped with
aerial rootlets; others, like Boston ivy (Parlhel7ocisslls
Iricuspidata), have tendrils that terminate in tiny suction
cup-like disks called hold/asts.
Scra m b l i ng v i nes Some vines have no means of attach­
ment; they climb only in the sense t11at their stems will
proceed on a vertical path if secured to a support. Left
to themselves, they'll simply mound, sprawl, and scram­
ble, although a few, such as climbing roses and most
bougainvilleas, can hook their thorns th rough adjacent
shrubs or trees. To p rovide appropriate attachment, many
gardeners cover flat surfaces with eyescrews and wire, and
tieing the plant in place at various points as it grows.
Attach wires for training vines to wooden walls with eyescrews or to
masonry walls with expanding anchor bolts.
CLINGING WITH CLINGING WITH SCRAMBLES;
HOLDFASTS AERIAL ROOTS NO MEANS OF ATTACHMENT
T R A I N I N G A N D PR U N I N G V I N ES
Until a vine gets a firm hold on its support, you may
need to tie it in place with twine or plastic garden tape.
For heavy vines, you can use thin rope or strips of
canvas or rubber. For clinging vines, you might tack
plastic mesh over the stems until you see the aerial
roodets or holdfast discs adhering. After the stems of
twining and scrambling vines gain some length, you can
weave them through any openwork support, such as a
trellis or wire fence.
To encourage bushy growth on young vines, pinch
out the stems' terminal buds. If you want just a few
vertical stems, though (for a tracery of growth around a
column, for example), don't pinch. Instead, remove all
but one or two long stems at the base.
After a vine is established, you'll need to prune
it periodically to keep it in bounds or to clear out
unwanted or dead growth. The job is often done late
in the dormant season, just before new growth begins,
although you may want to wait to prune early-spring
bloomers, such as Carolina jessamine (Gelsemium sem­
peruirens), until t10wering has finished. Some vines are
so vigorous they can pruned at any tin1e.
Vines that twine, climb by tendrils or coiling leaf­
stalks, or scramble are pruned by similar methods. Start
by removing dead and damaged growth. If the stems
are so tangled that can you can't tell what to remove,
snip through the mat of stems here and there; later on,
remove those that have died. If the problem is really
severe-if the vine is such a haystack of growth that you
can hardly find the support, for example-make head­
ing cuts low enough to reduce the vine's length by half.
After you've done that, you can usually untangle the
stems and make thinning cuts to remove unwanted
growth at ground level. As a last resort, cut the entire
vine to the ground in late winter or early spring and
start training it all over again.
VINES 329
 A Sampler of Vines
Bougainvillea
Fiveleaf akebia (Akebia quinata)
Semievergreen or deciduous, zones
5-1 1 . Regular water; full sun or
partial shade. A lush yet delicate
clinging vine. Foliage is fine tex­
tured, with each leaf consisting of
five small leaflets radiating from the
stem tip. The small, purplish spring
flowers are a bonus (some say they
smell like chocolate) . The vine
ascends rapidly to 1 5-30 feet, pro­
viding shade and hiding less-than­
lovely structures from view.
Bougainvillea Evergreen, zones
1 0- 1 1 and protected parts of zone 9.
Regular to moderate water; full sun
or partial shade. Gloriously colorful,
shrubby vine. Summer blooms in
bright shades of purple, red, orange,
yellow, and white. Must be tied to a
strong support. Vigorous varieties
will grow to over 1 5 feet. Train to a
warm, sunny wall or sturdy fence.
Can also be used as sprawling
ground cover.
330 CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLANTS
Deciduous clematis ( Clematis)
M a d a m e G a l e n trumpet creeper
( Campsis tagliabuana 'M a d a m e
G a l en') Deciduous, zones 5-1 1 .
Regular t o moderate water; full sun
to light shade. Vigorous climber
attaches to almost anything with
rootlets. Can reach 30 feet tall, so it's
suitable for large areas. Large
salmon red flowers are held in loose
clusters. Prune to keep compact and
within bounds.
Evergreen c l ematis ( Clematis
armandii) Evergreen, zones 8- 1 1 .
Regular water; leaves i n sun, roots in
shade. Clusters of shiny white, fra­
grant flowers in spring. Attractive,
deep green, divided foliage. Clings
with tendrils, climbing to 20 feet.
Perfect growing on eaves, trellis,
fences, or a small arbor.
D e c i d u o u s c l ematis ( Clematis)
Zones 4-10. Regul ar water; leaves in
sun, roots in shade. Huge family of
lovely, delicate vines. Large-flowered
hybrids, most widely grown, bloom
in every shade but green. Clings by
Caro l i na jessamine ( Gelsemium sempervirens)
tendrils, climbing about 1 0 feet.
Grow on trellis or allow to sprawl
among other plants.
Creeping fig ( Ficus pumila)
Evergreen, zones 8- 1 1 . Regular
water; full sun, partial shade. Clean­
looking, leathery foliage clings to
anything it touches. \XIill damage any
surface other than stone or masonry.
C a r o l i n a jessamine ( Gelsemium
sempervirens) Evergreen, zones 7-9
(7 - 1 1 \XI ) . Regular water; full sun to
partial shade. Cascading clusters of
fragrant yellow flowers in late winter
to early spring. Glossy green foliage
on a shrubby, nvining plant to 20
feet. Lovely trained to sunny trellis,
arbor, fence, or wall.
Hardenbergia violacea 'H a p py
W a n d e rer' Evergreen, zones 9-1 1 \XI.
Moderate water; full sun to partial
shade. Long clusters of sweet pea­
shaped, small pinkish purple flowers
late winter to early spring. Hand­
some divided leaves. Twines to 1 0
Hardenbergia violacea 'Happy Wanderer'
feet. Ideal for trellis and in large
containers. Cut back after bloom.
Ch inese j a s m i n e (Jasminum
polyanthum) Evergreen ( partially
deciduous i n cold areas ) , zones
8-1 1 . Regular water; partial shade.
Intensely fragrant white and pink
flowers i n spring. Bright green leaves
on twining stems up to 20 feet high.
Best in hot summer areas. Grow on
a trellis, arbor, fence, or sprawling
over a bank.
Honeys u c k l e ( L onicera) Evergreen
and deciduous, zones vary by
species. Regular water; full sun to
partial shade. Tubular, white to
yellow fragram flowers mostly in
summer. Rampant twining plants
that can grow over 4 0 feet, depend·
ing on species. Two popular ones are
goldflame honeysuckle (L. heckrattii)
and trumpet honeysuckle (L. semper·
virens). Avoid the seriously invasive
L. japanica. All need sturdy sup·
ports, lots of room, and heavy prun·
ing. Can be used as ground covers.
Chinese jasmine (Jasminum polyanthum)
Boston ivy ( Parthenocissus
tricuspidata) Deciduous, zones 4-9
( 4- 1 1 W). Regular water; full sun,
partial shade, or full shade. Glossy,
green, lobed leaves up to 8 inches
wide turn to red, yellow, or orange
in autumn. Stems cling tightly with
rootlike disks called holdfasts,
quickly climbing as high as 30 to 5 0
feet. For a finer· textured, smaller·
leafed vine than the species, look for
P t. 'Veitchii'. Its foliage is burgundy
red when new, and many believe it
has the finest fall color. Virginia
creeper ( P quinque/alta) is similar
but has more open growth.
S i lver lace vine ( Polygonum
aubertiJ) Deciduous to partially
evergreen, zones 5-9 (5-1 1 W ) .
Regular water; full sun t o partial
shade. Silver white, frothy flower
clusters spring to fall. Attractive
glossy foliage on twining stems.
Incredibly vigorous; can grow 1 00
feet in a year. Grow only on sturdy
fences or a large arbor. Prune heavily
to maintain size.
Honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens)
C l i m bing roses ( Rosa) The diverse
rose family includes many c1inlbing
roses. For more information, see
page 354 in this chapter.
Star jasmine ( Trachelospermum
jasminoides) Evergreen, zones 8-10
(8- 1 1 W ) . Regular water; full sun to
partial shade. White, sweetly scented
summer flowers born in showy c1us·
ters. Lustrous dark green leaves.
Twines to 20 feet high. Excellent on
fen ces, trellises, and posts. Widely
used ground cover.
Ch inese wisteria ( Wisteria sinensis)
Deciduous, zones 5-10 (5-1 1 Wi.
Regular water; full sun. Grape·like
clusters of fragrant violet·blue flowers
in spring. Twining branches eventually
become woody and classically
gnarled. Can climb over 50 feet.
Needs annual pruning for best flower·
ing. Delicate divided leaves cast won·
derful shade when grown on an arbor.
Also beautiful when trained to eaves.
Japanese wisteria (W /la ribunda) is
more cold hardy but less showy.
A SAMPLER OF VINES 331
 Combining ground covers that bloom a t the same time produces a
tapestry of color. Here red sunrose (Hefianthemum) is accented by
purple salvia, p i n k phlox, and yellow yarrow.

Ground Covers
THE G A RD E N ' S C ARPET
You can count on these dependable plants to blanket the spread more quickly if you prepare the planting area
soil with dense foliage, adding beauty and variety to the carefully. Dig out weeds, amend the soil with compost or
landscape and suppressing weeds at the same time. Lawn well-rotted manure, and broadcast a complete fertilizer
is the best-known ground cover, unsurpassed as a surface over the area ( follow package directions for amounts ) .
to walk or play all. But in areas where foot traffic is Work in amendments a n d fertilizer with a shovel or tiller,
infrequent and in sites inhospitable to lawn grasses-in and then rake to level the soil. (Shrubby plants from gal­
the shade under large trees or on hot, steep banks, for lon can tainers are an exception to this advice; these are
example-ground covers offer the nearness and u nifor­ often planted in the native soil, without amendments.)
mity of a lawn for considerably less maintenance and
water. These plants run the gamut of foliage textures and
colors, and many are noted for their bright flowers.
Heigllt varies, too. Some are low mats, while others are
knee-high or even taller. Some spread by underground
runners or root on top of the ground as they grow.
Others form clumps and should be planted close
together to produce a tight cover. For a sampler of
ground cover choices, see pages 3 34 to 3 3 7 .

P LA N T I N G G R O U N D COV E R S
Where winters are cold, plant i n spring t o give the
ground cover an entire season to become established
before it must face the rigors of winter: In areas with hot,
dry summers and mild winters, plant in fall; winter rains
will help get the plants off to a good start. Plant ground covers in a diamond pattern. This spreads the plants
Although ground covers are tough, they'll grow and efficiently and gives any size of bed a neat, natural look as plants fill in.

332 CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLANTS

S PAC I N G G R O U N D COV E R P LANTS
How much spacing to allow between ground cover
plants depends on the particular plam and, to some
extent, on how quickly you w,mt the growth to cover
the area.
When planting ground covers from smaller pots or
flats, set them in holes just deep enough for and slightly
wider than the rootball. To plant from gal.lon contain­
ers, dig a hole that tapers outward at the bottom to
accommodate the loosened roOts, leaving a plateau of
undisturbed soil in the middle. The root ball rests on
the plateau; the crown of each plam should remain
slightly above the soil smface to prevent rot. (See
page 3 06 ) .
S e t plants i n staggered rows when planting a slope
where erosion is likely. Make an individual terrace for
each plant and create a basin or low spot behind each
one to catch water.
After planting, water the plants thoroughly. As they
become established over the next several weeks, water
every few days, keeping the soil moist but not soggy.
To help maintain soil moisture and prevent weed seeds
from growing, spread a 2- to 4-inch-thick layer of an
organic mulch between the young plants, taking care
not to cover the plants' crowns.
G ro u n d Cover M a i n te n a n c e
Use hedge shears to cut
back vigorous ground
covers. This removes old
growth and keeps plants
from spreading out of
bounds. Rake up the
cli ppings and com post
them.
A mower set to cut 3 to
4 i nches high makes fast
work of tri m m i n g large
expanses of spreading
ground covers, such
as English ivy, creeping
St. Johnswort, and
periwin kle.
Rejuvenate perennial ground covers by digging them up, dividing each
clump, and then replanting strongest divisions.
CA R I N G FOR G R O U N D COV E R S
Most ground covers require little attention beyond
routine watering, mulching, fert ilizing, and grooming.
In many cases, maintenance takes very little time­
especially when compared to the hours typically i nvested
in lawn care. However, in a few cases, some special
attention pays dividends.
Wee d i n g One of the primary reasons for pl anting a
ground cover is to eliminate weeding. However, don't
expect to be freed from the job starting from the
moment the plants are in the ground; until they fill i n ,
some weeding i s usually necessary. Getting rid of weeds
before they set seed is important to prevent ongoing
problems. Replenishing the mulch as it decomposes also
aids in weed control. For serious weed problems, you
may be able to use a selective herbicide-one that will
kill weeds but not yom ground cover. For more on her­
bicides, see page 423 .
Edging If not restricted, many ground covers will
advance beyond the area you've allotted for them. If the
plant spreads by underground stems or by rooting along
stems that touch the soil, you may be able to control it
by trimming the planting's edges with pruning or hedge
shears or with a mower.
Pru n i ng Some shrubby ground covers that are normally
low-growing may occasionally send out upright stems
that spoil the evenness of the planting; cotoneaster is one
example. When you see such stems, cut them back to
their point of origin or to a horizontally growing stem
within the foliage mass.
GROUNO COVERS 333
 A Sampler of Ground Covers
Carpet bugle (Ajuga reptans 'Variegata')
B is ho p's w e e d (A egopodium
podagraria) Zones 4-9 (4- 1 1 W), 12
inches. Moderate water; sun or shade.
Divided leaves are light green or
variegated with white edges. Spreads
vigorously-often too vigorously-by
underground stems, forming dense
colonies. Contain with underground
barriers of wood or concrete.
Carpet b u g l e (Ajuga reptans)
Evergreen perennial, zones 3-9
(3-1 1 W), 4-5 inches. Regular water;
full sun or partial shade. Spreads
quickly by runners covered in dark
green leaves and 4- to 5 -inch blue­
flower spikes in spring to early sum­
mer. Will invade lawns unless
contained. Some varieties have pur­
plish or yellow variegated leaves or
white flowers.
B e a r b e rry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursJ)
Evergreen shrub, zones 2-6 (2-1 1 W ) ,
6-1 2 inches. Moderate water; s u n o r
light shade. Small, glossy oval leaves
on spreading stems that root as they
grow. Leaves turn red or purplish in
334 CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLANTS
Bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi)
winter. White flowers followed by
attractive red or pink fruits. Use on
banks and near seashore, especially in
sandy to gravelly soil.
C a p e w e e d (Arctotheca calendula)
Zones 1 0-1 1 W, 20 inclles. Moderate
water; full sun. Spreads by under­
ground runners. Six-inch leaves with
woolly undersides form rosettes.
Yellow flowers in spring to early
summer. Use on banks or for edging.
H eather ( Gal/una vulgaris)
Evergreen shrub, zones 5-7 (5-SW)
4-24 inches. Moderate water; full
sun. Neat clump-forming shrubs
with tiny scalelike leaves and very
showy spikes of bell-shaped flowers
in summer to fall. Many varieties
with differing flower and foliage
colors, hardiness, and growth habits.
Best in cool, moist climates.
C a r m e l c r e e p e r ( Geanothus griseus
horizontalis) Evergreen shrub, zones
9-1 1 W, I S-30 inches. Little water,
full SWl or light shade. Handsome,
Heather ( Cal/una vulgaris)
glossy leaves on stems that spread
5-15 feet wide. Light blue flowers.
Best on West Coast. Point Reyes
ceanothus (C glorlosus) has similar
habit with spiny, dark green leaves.
Dwarf p l u m ba g o ( Geratostigma
plumbaginoides) Deciduous, zones
5 - 1 0 (6- 1 1 W ) , 6-12 inches.
Moderate water; sun to partial
shade. Dwarf plumbago provides a
spot of vivid blue from midsummer
to mid-autumn, when cool tones are
most welcome in the garden. Loose
, clusters of intense blue flowers top
wiry stems. Leaves turn bronzy red
with frost. Shear after bloom.
C h a mo m i l e ( Ghamaemelum nobile)
Evergreen, zones 3 - 1 0 ( 3 - 1 1 W ) ,
3 - 1 0 inches. Moderate water; full
sun to partial shade. Soft-textured,
spreading mat of bright, light green,
aromatic foliage. Buttonlike yellow
flowers in summer used to make
herb tea. Useful as a lawn substitute
or between stepping-stones. Mow or
shear to keep compact.
Bearberry cotoneaster ( Cotoneaster dammefl)
B ea r b e rry cotoneaster ( Cotoneaster
dammeri) Evergreen shrub, zones
5-7 (5-1 1 W ) , 3-6 inches. Moderate
water; full sun. Bright glossy green
leaves with bright red fruit. Prostrate
branches spread 10 feet wide,
rooting as they grow. Creeping
cotoneaster (c. adpressus) is decidu­
ous and spreads to 6 feet. Rockspray
cotoneaster (c. hortzontalzs) grows
quickly to 2-3 feet tall and 15 feet
wide. Its stiff, horizontal branches
form a flat herringbone pattern. Use
on banks and retaining walls.
I c e p l a nt ( Delosperma) Succulent
perennial, zones 6-1 0 ( 6- 1 1 W), 1-5
inches, depending on species. Little
water; full sun. Fleshy, bright green
leaves. Brightly colored golden
yellow or purple flowers in spring or
summer. Plant i n rock gardens and
areas with excellent drain age.
I n d i a n m o c k strawberry ( Duchesnea
indica) Evergreen to semievergreen
perennial, zones 4-9, 6 inches.
Moderate water; sun or shade.
Ice plant ( Oelosperma floribundum)
Looks and grows Lke strawberry,
with trailing, rooting stems.
Produces yellow flowers and orna­
mental red fruit carried above the
leaves and enjoyed by birds. Useful
under trees and open shrubs. AJpine
strawberry (Fraga ria chiloel1sis) is
similar with white flowers.
E p i m e d i u m ( Epimedium) Perennials,
zones 4-9, 6-12 inches. Moderate
water; partial shade. Creeping
underground roots supporr thin ,
wiry stems holding leathery, divided
heart-shaped leaves. Foliage is
pinkish in spring, turning green,
then bronze in autumn. Airy spikes
of white to yellow or pink to red
flowers in spring. Excellent under
trees and open shrubs.
Wintercreeper ( Euonymus fortunei)
Evergreen shrub or vUle, zones 4-9,
1-3 feet. Regular to moderate water;
sun or shade. Spreads up to 20 feet
and cLmbs by rooting, cLnging stems.
Dark green, oval 1- to 2-inch leaves
with scalloped edges attractive in all
A SAMPLER
Epimedium ( fpimedium rubrum)
seasons. Many varieties with white
or yellow variegated foliage, including
'Coloratus', 'Emerald Gaiety', and
'Emerald 'n' Gold'. Use to cover
banks, control erosion, spacing
3 feet apart.
B l u e fescue ( Festuca glauca) Zones
4-8 (4-1 1 W ) , 10 inches. Moderate
to little water; full sun. Fine, thread­
like blue green leaves form mounds.
Pale gold flowers come in summer.
'Elija Blue' is an improved variety.
Sweet woodruff ( Galium odoratum)
Zones 4-8, 6-12 inches. Partial to
full shade; regular water. Quickly
forms a mat of stems bearing whorls
of dark green leaves. Clusters of tiny
white flowers appear from spring
Ulto summer. Use under trees and
tall shrubs. Space plants 1 foot apart.
Tra i l i n g gaza nia ( Gazania rigens leu­
colaena) Evergreen perennial, zones
8-1 0 (8-1 1 W), 6-1 0 inches. Regular
to moderate water; full sun. Spreads
rapidly by trailing stems, and has
OF GROUND COVERS 335
 A Sampler of Ground Covers
English ivy (Hedera helix 'Buttercup')
clean silvery gray leaves; flowers
in yellow, white, orange, bronze.
Varieties have larger flowers, greener
leaves, more clumping habit. Use on
banks and cascading over walls.
B igroot cranesb i l l ( Geranium
macrorrhizum) Zones 4-8 (-1 1 W ) ,
8-1 0 inches. Regular ( 0 moderate
water; full sun , afternoon shade in
hot regions. Large, fragrant lobed
leaves smother weeds. Spreads by
underground stems, forming tidy
clumps. One-inch-wide m agenta,
pink, or white flowers come in
spring, depending on variety. Deer
resistant .
Engl i s h i v y ( Hedera helix)
Evergreen vine, zones 5-8 (4-1 1 W),
4-6 inches. Regular ( 0 moderate
water; partial to full shade. Lobed
leaves on long, trailing stems that
root deeply as they grow. May
climb trees and buildings, clinging
with aerial rootlets. Trim to control
spread and density. Many varieties,
some with variegated leaves and
336 CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLANTS
Dead nettie ( Lamium maculatum)
differing foliage shapes and sizes.
Good on banks to control erosion.
Creeping SI. J o h n sw o rt ( Hypericum
calycinum) Evergreen shrublet, zones
5-9 (5-1 1 W), 12 inches. Regular to
moderate water; sun to partial shade
in hot areas. Spreads vigorously by
underground stems to form large
colonies of medium yellow green
leaves. Bright yellow blooms through­
out summer. Use to control erosion
or compete with tree roots. Mow
every two to three years to renew.
J u n i pers (Juniperus) Needled ever­
green shrub, zones 4-9 (4-1 1 W),
6-24 inches. Regular to moderate
water; sun to light shade. Widely
used for mass plantings on banks and
level ground. Many species and vari­
eties: Creeping types grow very low,
rooting along their stems and include
varieties of blue carpet juniper
'(J. chinensis 'Wiltonii'), shore juniper
(J. conferta), sucll as 'Blue Pacific';
and Bar Harbor juniper (J. horizon­
taizs), like 'Blue Rug', 'Plumosa', and
lantana ( Lantana montevidensis)
'Prince of Wales'. Spreading types
grow low, horizontal branches
and include varieties of sargent
(j. c. sargentii), tamarix (j. sabina
'Tamariscifolia'), and Virginia juniper
(j. vil'giniana 'Silver Spreader') .
D e a d nettle ( Lamium maculatum)
Zones 4-8 (4- 1 1 W ) , 6-1 2 inches.
Regular water; partial to full shade.
Gray green to white or silvery varie­
gated leaves light up shady areas.
Shorr spikes of small pink or white
flowers in early summer. Popular
varieties include 'Beacon Silver',
'Pewter Pink' , and 'White Nancy'.
Lantana ( Lantana montevidensis)
Evergreen shrub, zones 10-1 1 , 2-3
feet. Moderate water; full SLU1.
Branches trail to 3-6 feet. Dark green
toomed leaves, often red- tinged in
cold weamer. One-inch clusters of
white, pink, lavender, purple, or
orange £lowers. Many varieties.
L i l y turf (Liriope a n d Ophiopogon)
Evergreen perennials, zones 5 - 1 0
Lily turf (Liriope a n d Ophiopogon)
( 5- 1 1 W ) , 6-1 2 inches. RegLilar to
moderate water; partial sun or
shade. Clump-forming perennials
with grasslike leaves and spikes of
white or lavender flowers in summer.
Especially useful in borders and
around pools and trees. Mow or
cut back old foliage i n winter to
rejuvenate ragged plantings. Many
varieties with differing leaf and
flower colors.
Tra i l i ng Afr i c a n d a i s y
( Osteospermum fruticosum) Zones
1 0- 1 1 , 6-12 inches. Regular to
moderate water; full sun. Spreads
rapidly by rooting branches, cover­
ing 2--4 feet per year. Lilac to purple
daisylike flowers appear throughout
the year, most heavily in fall and
winter. Good in mass plantings and
on slopes.
Japanese s p u rge ( Pachysandra
term ina/is) Evergreen perennial,
zones 4-8 (4-9W), 8- 12 inches.
Regular water; partial to full shade.
Shiny, toothed dark green leaves i n
Tra i l i n g African daisy (Osteospermum
fruticosum)
neat whorls form large colonies
under trees and near buildings.
Spreads by underground runners.
'Silver Edge' has variegated leaves.
C i nquefo i l ( Potentilla) Evergreen
perennial, zones 3-8 0-1 1 W), 4-12
inches. Moderate water; sun , shade in
hot climates. Bright green to gray
green divided leaves form low­
growing carpets. Roselike I -inch flow­
ers in white, yellow, or pink to red
bloom in spring and summer. Many
species and varieties thrive, especially
in cool climates.
Roses ( Rosa) Among the many rose
varieties are several that make useful
ground cover. For a listing of them,
see page 356.
Baby's tears ( So/eiro/ia so/eiro/ii)
Zones 9-1 1 , 1--4 inches. Regular
water; partial to full shade. Creeping
plant with tiny round leaves spreads
aggressively to form large mats. Use
under ferns and other shade-loving
plants.
Japanese spurge ( Pachysandra termina/is)
Star jasmine ( Trache/ospermum
jasminoides) Evergreen vine, zones
9- 1 0 ( 9- 1 1 W), 1 8-24 inches (as
ground cover). Regular water; sun
to shade in hot areas. Glossy green
foliage on spreading, twining
branches. Will climb supports. Pro­
fuse, I -inch sweet-scented white
flower clusters attract bees. Use as
edging or under trees and shrubs,
pruning frequently to control growth.
Periwinkle ( Vinca minor) Evergreen
perennial, zones 4-9 ( 4 - 1 1 W ) , 6
inches. Moderate water; sun or par­
tial shade. Trailing, arching stems
with shiny I - inch oval leaves and
bright blue, lavender, o r white flow­
ers in spring to summer. ExcelJent
under trees and for edging. Varieties
have various flower and leaf colors,
including white-flowering 'Alba' and
variegated 'Ralph Shugert ' . Greater
periwinkle (V major) has larger
leaves to 3 inches long, spreads
rapidly in zones 7-1 1 , and is
extremely invasive in sheltered,
wooded areas.
A SAMPLER OF GROUNO COVERS 337

Lawns
THE P ERFECT G RO U N D COVER
Although the lawn i s usually the most conspicuous
feature of a home landscape, it need not be large to
enhance the overall beauty of the property. A well­
designed small lawn can be j ust as functional and hand­
some as a big expanse of grass, and because both must
be regularly fertilized, irrigated, and mowed, a small
lawn requires m uch less work.
New, lightweight push mowers make it easy to keep
a small lawn trimmed. Hybrid grasses being developed
for every climate grow more slowly than their predeces­
sors-and thus require less frequent mowing.
Some water-conscious gardeners question the need
for a grass lawn at all, but it does have advantages.
Grass is one of the best planting materials to keep the
ground attractively covered, and it provides a uniquely
safe and inviting s urface for children's play and for
recreational activities.
T H E LAW N I N YO U R LA N DS C A P E
Lawns combine handsomely with flower borders, natura­
listic plantings, and paved entertainment areas. Don't
think of a lawn as a simple rectangle or square; a small
circle of lawn ringed by trees and flowers, for example,
can be the centerpiece of a formal garden, while a
curved or kidney-shaped lawn can direct the eye to a
focal point, such as a tree or sculpture. A grassy patbway
338 CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLANTS
A freshly mowed lawn of tall fescue makes a lush carpet and
comfortable lounging spot. Brick mowing strip surrounding the lawn
reduces maintenance by elim inating the need for edging.
can lure a visitor around a stand of shrubs to a secret
garden waiting beyond. Squares of turf alternated witb
paving can create a cool and interesting space for patio
tables and chaises.
When designing or redesigning a lawn area, give
some tbought to the amount of care tbe grass will need.
A sbady spot under a tree may be better planted with a
ground cover, such as sweet woodruff. To eliminate
tedious hand-trimming, install mowing strips along the
perimeter of your lawn. A ribbon of concrete, brick, or
flat pavers, just wide enough to accommodate the wheels
of a mower, will allow you to cut right to the edge of tbe
grass. Lawns with rounded or simple geometric shapes
are quicker to mow than ones with irregular or rectangu­
lar shapes.
If you don't use mowing strips, use edgings (plastic,
metal, or wood benderboard) to contain your lawn, as
well as any plantings on the other side. If you plant a
grass that spreads by runners, 8-inch-deep edging will
keep it from invading nearby flower beds.
Especially in the arid West, make sure you have a
plan for irrigating your lawn. Will a simple hose and
hose-end sprinkler serve your purposes? Do you have an
existing system that needs upgrading or repair? A built­
in automatic sprinkler system is simplest to install before
the turf is planted.
G RASS ZONES A C l i m ate M a p for La w n s
Lawn grasses fall into two
general categories: northern
cool-season grasses, and
southern warm-season grasses.
Water and fertilizer needs differ
between the two groups, and sus­
ceptibility to some pests and
diseases varies, as well. Where
you live usually dictates the
type of grass you can grow.
The map at right is divided
into seven regions, each charac­
terized by particular climate
conditions. Grasses that grow
well in each zone are listed.
Keep in mind that the map is
only a guide. Specific areas within
a zone vary in rainfall, tempera­
ture, altitude, terrain, and soil.
Areas near the dividing lines
are transitional: Grasses that
flourish in those areas may
be different from those that
do well throughout the rest
of the region. For help, consult your Lowe's associate or M i dwest, Northeast, a n d Eastern Canada
nearest cooperative extension office. Summers are hot and humid, winters cold and snowy.
Rainfall is abundant, and soils are often acidic. Colonial
West, Pacific Northwest, and Western Canada and creeping bent, Kentucky and rough-stalk bluegrasses,
Climate is cool and humid along the coast, but hot and and perennial and annual rYegrasses are common; fine
dry in inland valleys. Rain comes in winter; summers are fescues are used throughout this region.
dry. Lawns seeded from cool-season grasses-bent, fine
and tall fescue, Kentucky blue, and perennial rye-do U pper South Summers are warm and humid, with
well throughout the region. Use tall fescue or bermuda in abundant rainfall throughout the growing season.
inland regions. Winters are relatively mild but can be severe. Bermuda,
tall fescue, and zoysia grasses perform well. Kentucky
• Southwest Summer high temperatures and little and rough-stalk bluegrass, and perennial and annual
rain put pressure on lawns. Most grasses require supple­ ryegrasses are also widely planted.
mental irrigation. Bermuda is the primary lawn grass,
with some zoysia and St. Augustine. Given adequate Centra l South Climate is warm and humid with
irrigation, t all fescue provides year-round green turf. abundant rainfall; winters are mild. Bermuda, centipede,
Perennial rye is excellent for overseeding dormant tall fescue, and zoysia do well. Kentucky bluegrass is
bermuda in the fall. used in cooler areas, St. Augustine in southern areas.

M o u n ta i n s , G reat P l a i n s , and Central P l a i n s of Florida, G u l f Coast, a n d H a w a i i Climate is sub­

Canada Climate is dry and semiarid, with wide tempera­
ture fluctuations. Drought-tolera nt native grasses-buf­
falo, crested wheatgrass, and blue grama-do well. With
irrigation, fine fescues and Kentucky and rough-stalk
bluegrasses succeed in northern areas, and tall fescue,
bermuda, and zoysia in southern areas.
tropical to tropical with a year-round growing season.
Rainfall is generally very high. Bahia, bermuda, cen­
tipede, St. Augustine, and zoysia grasses grow well
throughout most of the region. Use cool-season grasses
for winter overseeding of dormant warm-season lawns.

LAWNS 339
 With a rotary tiller, work organic amendment deep into the soil. After
tilling, remove any large stones, level , and rake smooth.

P L A N T I NG A N EW LAW N that is lacking in alkaline soils. Your n ursery advisor or

Establishing a new lawn takes advance planning and
work. Sowing seed or laying sad is only the final step .
When preparing the area to be planted, make sure it
h as a gentle slope away from buildings and other areas
that could be damaged by standing water. I n general,
allow a 3 - inch of slope for every 10 feet, or about 2 '/,
feet for every 1 00 feet (see page 208). As you measure
for slope, you may find that some areas are higher or
lower than others; grade these for an overall even
appearance. If you need to bring i n additional soil, buy
the same type as your existing soil (to the extent this is
possible) and m i x it with the existing soil as you prepare
for planting.
If you're installing a n underground sprinkler
system, allow enough time i n your schedule
to design it carefully for complete, even
coverage. Otherwise have a licensed land­
scape contractor do the design, installation,
or both.
cooperative extension office can recommend amowlts and
types of amendments that are best for adjusting soil p H in
your area.
Add orga n i c s o i l a m en d m e nts Nitrogen-stabilized soil
amendments derived from sawdust and ground bark are
available at most garden supply stores. Although more
costly, these materials are easier to use than raw sawdust
or bark products, which require additional nitrogen to
hasten breakdown.
Always sow hulled bermuda and buffalo grass seed because it will
germinate much better than unhulled seeds. Grasses prone to seedling
disease have a better chance of success if coated with fungicide.
UNHULLED
BERMUDA
FESCUE COATED

Test t h e soi l See page 3 03 for information o n

h o w to determi.ne your soil's acidity or
alkalinity. If tests indicate a highly acid soil
.
(pH below 6.0) , add ground li.111estone .
If the soil is highly alkaline (pH above
8.0), add iron sulfate or elemental sulfur. Iron
sulfate is fast acting and will supply the iron

340 CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLANTS

How to Sow G ra ss Seed
o After the site is prepared, scatter G Lightly rake seed i nto soi l .
seed and lawn fertilizer.
Smooth t h e seed bed Usually you have ro conform ro
surrounding paving, but if you have a choice, try to have
a slight pitch away from the house. Because grass fo rms
a thick mat about 1 inch high, the prepared planting area
should finish out about an inch lower than surrounding
areas. After raking and leveling, firm the seed bed with a
full roUer, making passes in two directions. If
necessary, level again.
Starting from seed Seeding applies primarily ro cool­
season grasses; most warm -season kinds are starred from
S E E D O R S O D ? W E I G H COST AND C H O I C E AGAI NST C ONVEN I E N C E
The greatest adva ntage seedi n g has over sod is cost. Although
i m p roved growing, ha rvesting, and distribution have made sod
less expensive than in the past, seeded lawns remain m uch
cheaper to p la nt. Also, while sod offers a wider choice than it
once did, seed still provides the most va riety. You can easily
find hybrid seed m ixtures that thrive in shade, for exa mple,
but these a re h a rder come by i n sad. Sod also has occasional
problems bon d i n g to the soil beneath; if it fails do so, you'll
get a shal low-rooted lawn at best-or, at worst, one that
fa i l s completely.
e Spread 1. i n c h o f m ulch, then roll with
an empty roller to press seed into soil.
sprigs or plugs. Lawns starred from seed are best
planted in faU, early enough in the season to give the
grass time ro establish before cold weather comes. The
next best time is spring, as soon as soil can be worked
( cool -season ) ; after all danger of frost is past and before
the weather turns hot (warm season ) .
\'\fhen you prepare the soil, don't cultivate i t too
finely-it may crust, forming a hard surface that emerg­
ing seedlings cannot penetrate. Ideally, aim for pea-sized
ro marble-sized soil particles. Do the final leveling with a
garden rake. Choose a windless day and sow the seeds
On the other hand, many gardeners ca n't stay at home to
keep a newly seeded lawn consta ntly moist for weeks, and not
everyone has an automatic sprin kler system that a llows for
watering several times per day. Sodded lawns m u st be kept
moist, too, of course, but they don't d ry out as fast as seeded
lawns; watering j u st twice a day (before and after work, for
exa m ple) is often enough to do the job. Sod a lso provides an
i n stant reward for your labors-a morale booster if the entire
garden is brand new, with only small trees and shrubs dotting
the landscape.
LAW N S 34 1
evenly, using a d rop or been mowed four times. By this
rotary spreader. Apply a stage, many weeds will have been
complete d ry granular fertilizer,
<llso using a spreader. Several manu­
� killed by mowing or crowded out
by the growing lawn . I f weeds
facturers offer fertilizers formulated are still a problem after fou r
especially for starting new lawns. mowings, many gardeners p re­
Water tho roughly, taking care not fer to treat the lawn with a n
to wash away the seed. Keep the seeded herbicide; unlike hand pulling,
area moist for about three weeks or until it kills weeds without the risk
all grass is sprouted, watering briefly (in of disturbing the root systems
5- to l O- m inute spells) and frequently. of the grass.
During warm periods, you may need to Try to avoid walking on the
water three, four, or more times a day. lawn too m u ch d uring the i n itial
Mow for the first time when the grass is four to six weeks.
one-third taUer than its optimum height. Mow
slowly to keep from disturbing the barely set I BUFFALO GRASS
roots. After the initial mowing, continue to PLUG
water frequently; the top inch of soil should
not be allowed to dry out until the lawn is
well established (this usually takes about
six weeks and four mowings ) .
I f weeds emerge, don't attempt to
control them until the young lawn
BERMUDA GRASS SPRIG

H ow to P l a n t Sa d
Sod lawns can b e started almost any time
of year, except when weather is very cold. It's
also best to avoid installation during a summer heat
wave. The following are the basic steps.
Water the planting area thoroughly the day before
the sod is delivered. Time the delivery of sod so you can
cover the whole area in a single d ay, beginning early in
the morning. When you lay out strips, stagger them so
the ends aren't adjacent; butt the sides tightly together.
With a sharp knife, cut the sod to fit it into odd-shaped
areas. Roll the entire lawn with a roller h alf-filled with
water to smooth out rough spots and press the roots of
the sod firmly against the soil. Water once a day ( more
often if the weather is hot), keeping the area thoroughly
moist for at least six weeks.
Mow for the first time when the grass is a third taller
than its optimum height. When mowing during the ini­
tial six weeks, be very careful not to disturb the seams.

o To install sod, moisten prepared soi l, 8 Use a knife to trim sad to fit snugly e Roll the lawn with a roller ha lf-filled
then u nroll strips a n d lay i n brick-bond a round paving and obstacles. with water to press roots firmly i nto the
fashion, pressi n g edges together f i rm ly. soil. Water every day (more often in hot
weather) for s ix weeks.

342 CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLANTS

LEFT: Circular lawn, just big enough for romping toddlers and
perhaps a picnic basket, is a green island surrounded by shrubs,
perennials, and herbs.
RIGHT: Antique mi l lstones make stepping-stones in a turf-covered path.
How to P l a n t P l u g s a n d S p r i gs
Many warm-season grasses are sol d HS sprigs or plugs.
A sprig is a pie ce of grass stem with roots and blades. A
plug is a small square or circle cut from sad. Early spring
is the best rime to plant.
Plugs are usualJy 2 to 3 inches actoss and are often
sold 18 to a tray-enough to plant 1 8 square feet on
Plugs Two-inch plugs of buffalo grass, planted at 8-inch
interva ls, will grow together in a year.
I -foot centers. Plant in the prepared area, spacing
them 8 to 12 inches apart. Sprigs are usualJy sold by
the bushel; the supplier can tell you how much area a
bushel will cover. The fastest way to plant them is to
scatter them evenly by hand over the prepared area, and
then roll them with a cleated roller.
S p rigs Torn to pieces by a machi ne, sprigs of hybrid berm uda
grass will root and spread quickly i n wel l-prepared soil.
LAWNS 343
 A Sampler of Lawn Grasses
Creeping bent grass (Agrostis st% nifera)
C r e e p i n g b e nt grass (Agrostis
stolonifera) Cool-season. Fine tex­
tured grass requires more water and
care than other lawn grasses. Grow in
acidic soil, in sun or light shade. Mow
at Yz to % inch. Sold as seed, sod.
Varieties include 'Penneagle',
'Penncross', and 'Seaside'.
B l u e gra m a grass (Souteloua
gracilis) Warm -season. Tolerates
drought, extremes of temperature,
and a wide range of soils. Does best
in sun. Makes a better-quality turf
when blended with buffalo grass.
Mow at 2 to 3 inches, three or four
times a year. Sold as seed.
Buff a l o grass ( Suchloe dactyloides)
Warm-season. Very drought-tolerant
lawn for sun; slow upright growth.
Mow at 3 inches, four or five times a
year. Sold as seed, sod, plugs. Several
improved varieties are available. The
best seed varieties are 'Cody',
'Tatanka', and 'Topgun ' . Best sod
varieties are '609', 'Prairie', and
'Stampede'.
344 HOOSING THE RIGHT PLANTS
Buffalo grass ( Such/oe dacty/oides)
Bermuda grass ( Cynodon dactylon)
Warm-season. Hybrid bermuda is
similar to common bermuda, but it's
finer textured and does not self-sow.
Mow at Yz to % inch. Sold as sad,
sprigs, plugs. Val-ieties available as
seed include 'Cheyenne', ' N u Mex
Sahara', and 'Sundevil ' . The softest­
and finest-blade bermudas are sterile
hybrids that come as sad, plugs, or
sprigs including ' Tifgreen', 'Tiflawn',
and 'Tifway'. Use them for golf or
putting greens in southern regions.
Plant 'Santa Ana' sad for hardy,
attractive play lawn.
Centipede grass ( Eremochloa ophi­
uroides) Warm-season. Light green
medium- to fine-textured grass
spreads by underground stems. A
chief virtue is its ability to thrive in
acidic, poor soils. Very little mainte­
nance is required; it's even resistant
. to chinch bugs. But cool tempera­
tures push it into dormancy and
below 5°F, it dies. Look for varieties
'Centennia l ' , 'Centiseed', or
'OkJawn '.
T a l i fescue ( Festuca arundinacea)
Ta l l fescue ( Festuca arundinacea)
Cool-season. Tolerates heat and
some drought, and flourishes in sun
or shade. It freezes out in the coldest
climates. Newer selections (dwarf
tall fescue) are finer bladed, deeper
green. Mow at 2 to 4 inches. Sold
as seed, sad. A few varieties-
such as 'Rebel Ill', 'Earth Save',
'Shenandoah', 'Titan I I ' , and
'Tarheel'-have endophytes, a pest­
repelling fungus bred into them.
The many named varieties include:
'Aztec I I ' , 'Bonsai 2000' , 'Cochise',
'Crewcut', 'Falcon III', 'G uardian',
'Jaguar 3', 'Millennium', ' Mustang
II', 'Ninja', 'Pixie', 'Plantation',
'Rebel 2000', 'Rembrandt',
'Shenandoah II,' and 'Tar Heel'.
Fine fescue ( Festuca rubra and
others) Cool-season. Fine-bladed
grasses succeed in well-drained soil
in shaded sites. Fairly drought toler­
ant. Sometimes blended with
Kentucky bluegrass or perennial
ryegrass or to overseed warm-season
grasses. Mow at 1Yz to 2 inches. Sold
Perennial rye grass ( Lalium perenne)
as seed. Chewlngs fescues include
'Ambassador', 'Jamestown I I ' , and
'Longfellow II'. Hard fescues include
'Bighorn', 'Defiant', and 'Scaldis.'
Creeping red fescues include 'Boreal'
and 'Shademaster'. All are often
mixed with Kentucky bluegrass and
perennial ryegrass, addlng greater
shade and drought tolerance.
Pere n n i a l ryegrass ( Lo/ium perenne)
Cool-season. Deep green grass does
best in sun. Needs frequent watering.
Used as year-round lawn in cooler
regions or to overseed winter-dor­
mant grasses. Mow at 2 to 3 inches.
Sold as seed or sod. Look for
'Applaud' , 'Charismatic', ' Exacta',
'Dlmension', 'Manhattan I I ' ,
'Palmer', 'Pennant', 'Pick 7 1 5 ' ,
'Pizzazz', 'Riviera', a n d 'SR-4 1 00'.
'Manhattan II' has pest- repelling
endophytes (see tall fescues) .
B a h i a grass ( Paspa/um notatum)
Warm-season. A tough, low-growing,
coarse grass used in the Southeast for
a low-maintenance lawn. It is drought
Kentucky b luegrass (Paa pratensis)
and shade tolerant, but requires fre­
quent mowing. Improved varieties
include 'Argentine', 'Paraguay', and
'Pensacola'.
Seashore paspa l u m ( Paspa/um
vaginatum) Warm-season. A glossy,
deep green, medium-textured grass,
and an alternative to Bermuda in
coastal areas where soil is too salty. I t
takes heat, drought, and salty soil in
stride, and sh rugs off pests. Plant i t
b y sprigs. plugs, o r sod. Look for the
,'arieties 'Adalayd' (same as
Excalibre ) , or 'Sea Isle 2000'.
Kentucky b l uegrass ( Poa pratensis) .
Cool-season. Classic blue-green grass
for cooler, northern regions. j eeds
regular water. Takes sun, light shade.
Mow at 1 to 3 inches. Widely avail­
able as seed or sod. Usually mixed
with other cool-season grasses. Top
varieties include 'A-34', 'America',
'Award', 'Blacksburg', 'Chateau',
'Eclipse', 'Glade', 'Liberator',
'Midnight', 'Princeton 1 04', 'Rugby
II', and 'Showcase.'
SI. Augustine ( Stenataphrum secundatum)
SI. Augusti n e grass ( Stenotaphrum
secundatum) Warm-season. Coarse­
textu red grass adapted to wide range
of soils but does best along coast.
Dark green blades have rounded tip.
G rows best in sun but tolerates
shade. Needs regular water. Spreads
fast by surface runners that root at
joints, and can invade other parts of
the garden ( but shallow roots pulJ
up easily). Mow at 1 1, to 3 inches.
Sold as sod, sprigs, plugs. Top vari­
eties are 'Bitterblue', 'Floratine',
'Floralawn', 'Jade', 'Palmetto',
'Raleigh', and 'Seville'.
Zoys i a (Zoysia matrel/a) Warm­
season. Tolerates dtought and heat;
takes sun or shade. Mow at 1 to 2
inches. Sold as sod, sprigs, plugs.
Fine textured with stiff, wiry blades.
It's deep rooted and slow to spread.
A tough grass, a downside is its long
wlnter dormant season. Varieties
such as 'Cashmere', 'De Anza',
'Emerald', and 'Victoria', minimize
dormancy. Plant 'Zen 300' and
'Zenith' from seed.
A SAMPLER OF LAWN GRASSES 345
Perennial Flowers
G L O RI O U S C O L O R Y E A R A F T E R Y EAR
Long-lived bloomers, perennial flowers are prized
because they come back year after year. Most are easy to
grow, although it may take a few years to get them estab­
lished, and they vary in the length of time they can grow
in one spot without revitalization.
You can find perennials suitable for every location
and condition. Some are hardy i n the snowiest mountain
areas; others live in the driest deserts. Some die down to
the ground after blooming, o n l y to reappear the follow­
ing year. Others are evergreen in mild-winter climates,
including Iily-of-the- N ile and some daylilies. A few, such
as coral bells, live most of the year as low-key foliage
plants, and then explode in brilliant color. With dead­
heading ( removing old flowers), many perennials offer
repeat shows throughout the season. Becoming familiar
with the val·ious characteristics of perennials will help
guide your selections.
M a n y gardeners like to create a mixed border, which
can include small trees and shrubs, bulbs, roses, orna­
mental grasses, and ann ual £lowers i n addition to peren­
nials. The perennials sup ply successive color throughout
the year, lengthening the border's period o f attraction
and lending it enormous variety i n color and form.
Before buying, always consider how wide and high
a perennial will ultimately grow. Some reach 7 to 8 feet
tall, while others are quite low. Plants only a few inches
across when brought home from the n u rsery may even­
tually form mounds 3 to 4 feet wide. To avoid crowding
problems, space plants and choose planting locations
with an eye toward each plant's mature size.
Perennials incl uding lavender Russian sage, purple coneflower, black­
eyed Susan, light purple Joe Pye weed, l i ght pink sedum 'Autumn Joy'
and ornamental grasses combine to create col orful late-summer disp lay.
H ow to D i v i d e C l u m p i n g Pere n n i a l s

o lift overgrown plant from the ground G Slice through clump with a trowel, o I m mediately plant d ivisions i n
after loosen i n g soil a ro u n d a n d u nder the dividing it i nto four sections. Break each prepared bed. Water new divisions
c l u m p with a spading fork. section by hand i nto 4- by 4-inch pieces. regularly until established.

P LA N T I N G A N D CAR I N G FOR P E R E N N I A LS (see illustration below) [0 encou rage bushier growth; [0

Most perennials are purchased in -l-inch [0 I -gallon
containers; mail-order sou rces often also ship them
bare-root. Plant [hem as directed on pages 3 07 .
Soi l , water, a n d fert i l izer I n general, perennials prefer
soil that is well amended with organic matter, but a sur­
prising number do well in ordinary or even poor garden
make plants bushier stiJJ, cut back entire branches by a
few inches rather than just pinching the top bud.
D i v i d i n g Gardeners divide perennials for at least two
reasons: [0 improve the health and flower production of
overgrown, crowded plantings and [0 gain new divisions
[0 increase a planting. Note that division is usually feasi­

soil. Some thrive in full sun; others need SOllle shade,
especially in hot-summer climates. Water needs differ,
[00: Some perennials are thirsty, while others succeed
with little water. Most perennials app reciate an annual
feeding, either in the form of organic amendments
worked into the soil in spring or fall or with a complete
fertilizer applied in spring. Some, however, need regular
fertilizing throughout the growing season.
ble only for perennials that grow in clulllPs with an
expanding root Ill a ss. It is not practical [0 divide those
thar grow from a taproot; if you try [0 divide the taproot,
you'll probably kill the plant.
P r u n i n g tec h n i q u es

G R OW I N G S EA S O N C A R E
Perennials look their best with regular maintenance dur­
ing the growing season.

Dea d h e a d i n g keeps the landscape looking neat and can

prolong blooms for several weeks. For many flowermg
perennials, trLmmmg and pmching also improve appear­
ance. After a sprmg-flowering plant's bioolllmg period
ends, cut back all stems and foliage by a third; a healthy
mound of new growth soon fills in and reillams through­
out the growing season. To prevent lanky, floppy growth Pinch growing tips t o make Cut back to i m prove appear­

on some summer- and fall-bloommg peren nials, control plants more com pact a n d a nce and promote cont i n ued
growth early m the season. Pmch mdividual termmal buds bushy. flowering.

PERENNIAL FLOWERS 347

 A Sampler of Perennials
lady's mantle (Alchemil/a mol/is)
C o m m o n yarrow (Achillea mille­
folium) Zones 3-9 (3-1 1 W ) , 24
inches. Moderate water, full sun.
Large, flat-topped flower clusters
on l - to 3 -foot stalks from clumps
of lower-growing fernlike foliage.
White, yellow, pink to red flowers
throughout summer. Choices include
Summer Pastels and Debutante
strains. Other yarrows include fern­
leaf yarrow (A jilipendullna),
A. 'Moonshine', A 'Taygetea'.
Lady's mantle (A lchemilla mo/lis)
Zones 4-7 ( 4- 1 1 W ) , 12 inches.
Regular water; sun to deep shade.
Neat mounds of rounded, scallop­
edged pale green leaves appear
silvery, especially after rain or dew.
Airy clusters of tiny yeLlow-green
flowers above the foliage in summer.
Excellent for edging, front of
borders, lightly shaded landscapes.
C o l u m b i n e (Aquilegia) Zones 3-9
( 3 - 1 1 W), 6-30 inches. Moderate
water; full sun to filtered shade.
Lacy, divided gray-green leaves and
348 CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLANTS
Columbine (Aquilegia)
colorful spurred flowers in nodding
or upright dusters. Single and
double yellow, red, white, purple,
blue, pink flowers often bicolored.
Self-sows readily. McKana Giants
are a popular hybrid strain.
Wormwood ( Artemisia) Zones 4-9
(4- 1 1 W ) , 6-60 inches. Moderate
water; full sun. Many species and
varieties, all prized for silvery gray
to white aromatic foliage. Feathery
'Silver Mound' and deeply lobed,
white-leafed ' Silver Brocade' are
good for edging. 'Silver Queen' and
'Powis Castle' grow to 3 feet.
Butterfly w e e d (Asclepias tuberosa)
Zones 4-9 (4- 1 1 W ) , 3 feet. Moderate
water; full sun. Clusters of bright
orange to yellow flowers in summer.
Narrow lance-shaped leaves on
straight, unbranched stems. Monarch
butterflies lay eggs on the leaves.
New England aster ( Aster novae­
angliae) Zones 4-8 ( 4- 1 1 W ) , 1-5
feet. Regular water; full sun. Forms
New England aster (Aster novae-angliae)
clumps of strong, hairy stems topped
by brightly colored clusters or
plumes of flowers in late summer to
autumn. Hundreds of varieties of
varying growth habits and with
flower colors ranging from white to
blue to deep p u rple, most with yel­
low centers.
Asti l b e (Astilbe arendsii) Zones 4-8
(4- 1 1 W ) , 1-4 feet. Regular water;
full sun to partial shade. Deeply
divided, fernlike leaves are attractive
in all seasons. White, pink, red,
purple flower plumes grow above
the foliage in summer. Mainstay of
shady borders. Varieties include
white 'Deutschland', dark red
'Fanal', and pink 'Glow' and
A simpliet/olia 'Sprite'.
Bergenia ( Bergenia) Zones 3-8
( 3- 1 1 W), 1 2- 1 8 inches. Regular
water; full sun in cool clinlates or
partial shade. Large, glossy evergreen
leaves form attractive colonies in bor­
ders, edges, under trees. \'V'hite, pink,
or rose flowers in spring.
Painted daisy ( Chrysanthemum coccineum)
Carpath ian bel lflower ( Campanula
carpatica) Zones 3-7 (3-1 1 \XI ) , -1-12
inches. Regular to moderate water;
full sun to partial shade. Small heart­
shaped, toothed leaves form neat
mounds. Covered \\'ith white or blue
to violet bell-shaped flowers in sum­
mer. Varieties include 'Blue Clips'
and 'White Clips'. Over 300 other
campanula species and many vari­
eties vary widely in height. form , and
flower habit. Other popular bell­
flowers include spreading clustered
bellflower (C glomera/a) , trailing
Italian bellflower (C isophylla), and
upright peach-leaf bellflower
(C perslci/olla).
Pai nted d a i s y ( Chrysanthemum
coccineum) Zones 4-9 (4- 1 1 W ) ,
1 8-30 inches. Regular to moderate
water; full sun. Upright clumps of
stems with finely divided leaves,
topped by brightly colored pink,
crimson, or white daisy flowers with
yellow centers. Varieties include
'James Kelway', 'Snow Cloud'.
Shasta daisy ( C superbum) is
lanceleaf coreopsis ( Coreopsis lanceolata)
similar with large white flowers. Use
in mixed borders.
Lanceleaf coreopsis ( Coreopsis
lanceolata) Zones -1-9 ( 4-1 1 \XI ) ,
12-24 inches. Moderate water;
full sun. Profuse I V,- to 2-inch
yellow daisylike blooms all summer.
Narrow, often lobed leaves form a
loose clump. Thread-leaf coreopsis
(C ver/icl!la/a) has finely divided
leaves on clumps of erect 18- to
30-inch stems topped by bright yel­
low flowers summer through fall.
D e l p h i n i u m (Delphinium elatum)
Zones 3-6 O-l l \XI), 3-7 feet.
Regular water; full sun to part
shade. Tall spires of showy white,
pink, blue to purple flowers for the
back of the border. Divided to
lobed foliage clumps at base and
partway up flower spikes. Give sup­
port in wind-prone areas. Popular
hybrids include Belladonna, Magic
Fountain Mix, and Pacific Giants.
Easiest in cool climates.
Bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis)
Cottage p i n k ( Dianthus plumarius)
Zones 3-9 ( 3- 1 1 \XI), 12-16 inches.
Regular water; full sun to light
shade. Flowering stems hold
fragrant single or double fringed
blooms in shades of white, red, or
pink above narrow gray-green
foliage. Hundreds of species and
varieties, including maiden pinks
(D deltoldes), cheddar pinks
(D gratial1opo/i/al1us), and biennial
sweet William (D barba/us). Plant
under open shrubs, in rock gardens,
and along edges.
B l e e d i n g heart ( Dicentra
spectabilis) Zones 3-9 (3-1 1 W),
2-3 feet. Regular water; partial
shade. Stems bearing pendulous
pink and white, heart-shaped flowers
in spring. Soft green, fernlike foliage
dies down by mid to late summer.
Long-time favorite. 'Alba' has white
flowers. Other popular species and
varieties include ' Adrian Bloom',
'Luxuriant', eastern bleeding heart
( D. eximla) , and western bleeding
heart ( D. /ormosa).
A SAMPLER Of PERENNIALS 349
 A Sampler of Perennials
Purple coneflower ( Echinacea purpurea)
P u r p l e c o n eflower ( fchinacea
purpurea) Zones 3-9 (3- 1 1 W ) , 3-5
feet. Moderate water; full sun. Very
showy daisylike flowers with droop­
ing purple petals and bristly cone­
shaped centers from mid- to late
summer. Large, stiff, coarse-textured
plant with hairy leaves and stems.
'Bright Star' has rosy pink flowers,
'Magnus' grows to 3 feet, and 'White
Swan' has white flowers.
B l a nket flower ( Gaillardia
grandiflora) Zones 3-8 ( 3 - 1 1 W),
8- 1 8 inches. Moderate water; full
sun. Flowers in warm shades of red
and yellow with maroon or orange
markings bloom from early spring to
autumn frost. Rough gray-green
foliage. Often short-lived, but self­
sows. Many varieties with differing
flowers, habits.
Cranes b i l l ( Geranium) Zones 3-9
( 4- 1 1 W), 6-36 inches. Regular
water; sun to afternoon shade.
Over 3 00 species and many varieties.
Rounded, lobed, or divided leaves
350 CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLANTS
Blanket flower ( Gaillardia grandiflora)
form neat mounds to sprawling
carpets, depending on species.
Five-petaled flowers in white, blue,
pink to purple in spring to fall.
Popular cranesbills include 'Claridge
Druce', 'Johnson's Blue', and
'Wargrave Pink'.
Baby's breath ( Gypsophila
paniculata) Zones 4-9, 2-4 feet.
Moderate water; full sun. Many­
branched sprays of small white
flowers used in bouquets. Slender,
pointed leaves. Varieties include
'Bristol Fairy' and 'Pink Star'.
Creeping baby's breath (G. repel1s)
forms a 6- to l O-inch-tall mat of
white to pink flowers.
H e l l eb o r e ( Helleborus) Zones 4-9
( 4- 1 1 W ) , 12-3 0 inches. Regular to
moderate water; partial to full shade.
Many species and varieties form
clumps of thick, long-stalked divided
leaves. Large green to pink or purple
flowers bloom over a long period
from winter through spring. Elegant
woodland plant.
Oayl i l y ( Hemerocallis 'Ta h itian Sunrise')
Day l i l y ( Hemerocallis) Zones 3 - 1 0
(3-1 1 W), 1-4 feet. Regular t o moder­
ate water; full sun to light shade.
Long, arching, straplike leaves form
spreading clumps. Branched stalks in
summer hold trumpet-shaped blooms
in shades of yellow, orange, red, pink,
and cream. Use for borders and
edges. Thousands of varieties, includ­
ing 'Eenie Weenie', 'Mary Todd',
'Pardon Me' 'Stella de Oro', and
'Tahitian Sunrise'. Lemon daylily
(H. lilioasphodetus) has fragrant
yellow flowers in early summer.
Coral b e l l s ( Heuchera) Zones 4-8
(4- 1 1 W ) , 12-24 inches. Regular
water; sun to light shade in hot
areas. Prized for low mounds of
ornamental foliage and tall stalks
of airy white, pink, or red flowers.
Leaves vary from round with scal­
loped edges to mapleleaf-shaped;
colors from glossy green to purple to
silvery gray. Many varieties, includ­
ing 'Palace Purple', 'Persian Carpet',
and 'Pewter Moon'.
Hosta
Hosta ( Hosta) Zones 3-8 0-1 1 \'\f),
3-36 inches. Regular water; partial
to full shade. Hundreds of varieties
with wide range of foliage colors,
shapes, and sizes. Heart-shaped to
rounded to lance-shaped leaves form
neat, spreading clumps. Colors vary
from yellow to aLI shades of green to
blue gray, many variegated white or
yellow. Often-showy stalks of white
to purple flowers in summer.
Popular varieties include 'August
Moon', 'Aureo-marginata', 'Frances
Williams', 'Golden Tiara', 'Gold
Standard', 'Halcyon', 'Honeybells',
'On Stage', 'Sum and Substance',
and '\'\fide Brim ' .
Lavender (Lavandula) Zones 5-9
(5- 1 1 \'\f ) , 12-36 inches. Moderate
water; full sun. Prized for fragrant
lavender or purple flowers used for
soaps and perfumes, and aromatic
gray to gray-green needlelike foliage
that forms spiky clumps. Use for
edging, massing, mixed borders.
Many varieties and species.
Beebalm ( Monarda didyma 'Cambridge Scarlet') Peony ( Paeonia)
Gayfeather ( L iatris spicata) Zones
-/-9 (4-1 j \'\f), 3-5 feet. Regular to
moderate water; full sun. Tall stalks
of fluffy purple flowers emerge from
tufts of narrow, grasslike leaves in
late summer. Very showy in mixed
borders, good for bouquets.
'Kobold' has magenta flowers,
'AJba' white flowers.
V i rginia b l ue b e l l s ( Mertensia
virginica) Zones 3-7 0-9\'\f), 1 8-24
inches. Hegular water; partial to fLLIJ
shade. Loose clusters of nodding
I -inch pink to blue flowers in early
spring. Blue-green leaves die back by
midsummer. Plam with spring bulbs
and ferns in woodland landscapes.
Beebalm ( Monarda didyma) Zones
3-9, 2-4 feet. Hegular to ample water;
fulJ sun to light shade in hot areas.
Fragrant, dark green leaves in vigor­
ously spreading clumps. Tubular
flowers of red, pink, white, or purple
attract hummingbirds in summer.
Many varieties, including 'Cambridge
Scarlet' and 'Marshall's Delight'.
Catm i nt ( Nepeta faassenil) Zones
3-9 0-1 1 \'\f ) , 12-36 inches. Moder­
ate water; sun to light shade in hot
areas. Clump-forming to spreading,
aromatic-leaved plants with blue to
purple, pink, or white flower spikes.
Downy foliage, often gray-green . Use
in mixed borders and along edges.
Popular catmints include 'Six Hills
Giant' and 'Dropmore Hybrid ' .
P e o n y ( Paeonia) Zones 3-8
(4-10\'\f), 20-40 inches. Hegular
water; full sun to light shade in hot
areas. Large, showy, often fragrant
blossoms, white to pink to deep red,
in early summer. Several flower
forms, from single with prominent
yellow centers, to double with many
crowded petals. Divided leaves on
long stalks form attractive, shrublike
clumps that die to the ground in
autumn. Hundreds of varieties. Tree
peonies have woody stems and
flower colors that include yelJow
and apricot. Plants need at least 2 to
3 years in the garden to reach flow­
ering size.
A SAMPLER OF P E R E N N I ALS 351
 A Sampler of Perennials
Russian sage ( Perovskia atriplicifolia)
Ori enta l p o p py ( Papaver orientale)
Zones 3-9, 2--4 feet. Regular to mod­
erate water; full sun . Bowl-shaped
flowers with silky petals on leafy
stalks above a low mound of long,
narrow, notched foliage. Red,
orange, white, or pink flowers with
black centers bloom in early summer
followed by attractive seedpods.
B e a rd tongue ( Penstemon) Zones
3 - 1 0 ( 3 - 1 1 W ) , 12-3 0 inches.
Regular to moderate water; sun to
afternoon shade. Spikes of tube­
shaped flowers in white, pink to red
in summer above sprawling clumps
of narrow, pointed foliage. Many
varieties, including 'Elfin Pink' and
' Husker Red'. U seful in mixed bor­
ders and hum mingbird gardens.
R u s s i a n sage ( Perovskia atriplici­
folia) Zones 4-10 (4- 1 1 W ) , 3--4 feet.
Drought resistant; full sun. Woody­
based clump with many grayish
white, upright-growing stems
clothed in gray-green foliage.
Lavender-blue flowers come late
352 CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLANTS
Garden phlox ( Phlox paniculata)
spring and summer in sprays atop
branched stems creating a soft p u r­
ple haze above foliage. Varieties
include 'Blue Spi re' (also sold as
'Superba' and 'Longin ' ) , lighter blue
' Blue Mist' and ' Blue Haze', and
silver leaved 'Filagran'.
G a r d e n p h l ox ( Phlox paniculata)
Zones 3-8 (4-9 W ) , 3--4 feet . Regular
water; full sun. S howy dome-shaped
clusters of fragrant flowers atop tall,
leafy stems in mid- to late summer.
Colors from white to deep pink to
blue to orange, often with contrast­
ing centers. Other phlox include
spring-blooming creeping phlox
(P subulata) with needlelike leaves,
and thick-leaf phlox (P maculata) ,
which blooms i n early summer.
Pri mrose ( Primu/a) Zones 2-8
(2- 1 1 W ) , 4-18 inches. Regular to
ample water; full sun to shade in hot
climates. Rosettes of rounded to
tongue-shaped foliage, often toothed
or puckered. Leafless stalks carry
clusters of rounded five-petaled
Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia 'Goldsturm')
flowers in many differing colors,
usually in spring. Use at front of
borders, in woodland landscapes,
near water, or in rock gardens.
Hundreds of species and hybrids.
Lungwort ( Pulmonaria) Zones 4-8
( 4- 1 1 W ) , 1 2- 1 8 inches. Regular
water; partial to full shade. Hairy,
ornamental foliage, often spotted
with silver, forms neat, spreading
clumps. Drooping clusters of funnel­
shaped blue or pink flowers in
spring. Excellent with spring bulbs,
in shady borders, and under trees.
Varieties include ' M rs . Moon' with
blooms that turn from pink to blue.
B l a c k-eyed S usan ( Rudbeckia)
Zones 3-9 ( 3 - 1 1 W ) , 1--4 feet.
Regular to moderate water; full sun.
Masses of large bright yellow to
orange or rust daisylike flowers with
brown, black, or green centers in
summer to fall. Useful in mixed
borders and bouquets. Many popu­
lar strains and varieties including
'Goldsturm', and 'Rustic Dwarfs'.
Spiderwort ( Tradescantia)
Sage ( Salvia) Zones -1- 1 0 (-1- 1 1 W),
1-8 feet. Regula r water; fuiJ sun.
Over 60 species and manv varieties
of prized landscape perennials . ing S. ' Vera Jameson'.
annuals, and shrubs. Very showv
spikes of white, blue, scarlet, or pink
flowers in summer. Foliage varies
widely, from smooth to hairy. lance­
shaped to rounded, green to pu rple
to silvery. Excellent for borders,
edges, and massing. Most need fuiJ
sun good drain age, and little p run­
, rosettes. Flower stalks bear small
ing_ Popular perennials include
pineapple sage (5. elegans), S.
nemorosa 'East Friesland', common
sage (5. officinalis ' Trico lor' ) , and
clary sage (5. scla rea).
Stonecrop ( Sedum) Zones 3 - 1 1 ,
2-24 inches. Moderate t o little
water; full sun to light shade.
Growth habits vary from creeping
or spreading to upright. Fleshy
leaves from bright green to blue
green or gray green to red or plum.
Many species and varieties have
brightly colored, showy flower clus­
ters. Favorites include trailing gold -
Speedwell ( Veronica 'Crater Lake Blue')
moss sedum (s. acre), S. spectabile
'Autumn Joy', two-row stonecrop
(5. splirilllJl 'Tricolor' ) , and spread­
lamb's ears ( Stachys byzantina)
Zones -1- (-1-1 1 W ) , 12-18 inches.
Moderate water; sun to light shade
i n hot are,lS. Popular for its tongue­
shaped, s i lvery g reen to white,
- green to silvery gray. Varieties
wooly leaves that form clumps of
purple flowers in early summer.
Foliage contrasts n icely with more
brightly colored perennials. Use in
borders , as edging, and for ground
cover.
S p i d e rwort ( Tradescantia) Zones
4-9 (4-1 1 W), 1 8-36 inches. Tough
plants with long stems. Am ple water;
sun or shade. Long, deep-green,
arching, grasslike foliage; three­
petaled flowers in clusters. Bloom
varies from white to pink to purple
in spring through summer. Many
varieties and other species. Use for
edging and ground cover.
Violet ( Viola)
Speedwell ( Veronica) Zones 3-8
(3-9W), 6- 1 8 inches . Regular to
moderate water; full sun. Spikes of
small bright blue, white, or purple
to pink flowers bloom over a long
period in summer. Shapes range
from upright clumps to creeping
mats. Narrow to rounded, toothed
foliage varies from bright, glossy
include 'Crater Lake Blue',
'Goodness G rows', and creeping
V pros/rata H eavenl y Blue'.
'
V i o l et ( Viola) Zones 4-9 (4-1 1 W ) ,
2 - 1 2 inches. Regular water; s u n to
shade. ScalJoped round to heart­
shaped or narrow leaves. Smooth
stalks hold colorful, often fragrant
flowers in spring through fall,
depending on species. Blooms in all
colors, including bicolors. Popular
kinds in clu de Australjan violet ( V
bederacea) and sweet violet ( V odor­
ala). Some violas, such as the Sorbet
series ( V cornu/a) , are perennial two
zone 8. Use in borders containers,
,
and edges.
A SAMPLER OF PERENNIALS 353
Roses
Q U E E N OF FLOWERS
'Dortmund', a large, vigorous climbing rose, covers a chain-link fence. It
is repeat-blooming and virtually disease-free.
Long a gardener's favorite and America's national flower,
roses still suffer from a reputation of being difficult to
grow. In reality, roses are tough and long-lived. No plant
is more flexible or more versatile than this flowering
shrub.
R O S E S I N T H E LAN D S C A P E
Roses offer much more than simple beauty. F o r example,
climbing roses on trellises can form the walls of outdoor
rooms or create a passageway underneath a series of
arched arbors. Thorny shrub roses ca n' function as
protective hedges. Roses clambering atop an arbor can
supply needed summer shade. And roses that form
colorful hips can attract birds and other wildlife.
354 CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLANTS
There's a rose for every garden situation. Miniature
roses can be used to edge beds and pathways, climbing
roses can take the place of vines, standard roses can
work as accents or focal points in place of flowering
shrubs or ornamental grasses, and many shrub roses
can be mixed in with other plants to form spectacular
borders or foundation plantings. Use drifts of roses in
place of annuals and long-flowering perennials or mix
them with a single plant, such as lavender or clematis,
for dramatic contrasts. Roses can even bring color into
a vegetable or herb garden.
P L AN T I N G A N D C A R I N G FOR R O S E S
The best time t o buy roses i s Ul late winter, when they're
available as dormant bare-root plants, or during the first
bloom flush of spring, when they're sold as flowering con­
tainer plants. Shop early for the widest selection.
Roses need well-amended soil. If you know you'll be
planting bare-root roses in winter, clean up the area and
amend the soil in fall or early spring. That will leave you
with less work to do come planting time, when the
weather is often cold and Wlpredictable, and planting
may have to be rushed in between storms.
Because most modern roses put out new growth and
flowers throughout the growing season, they need regu­
lar water and consistent fertilizing during that time. In
general, keep soil moist (but not soggy) to the full depth
of the roots. This can take u p to 5 gallons of water per
rose in sandy soil, almost 8 gallons in loam, and u p to 1 3
gallons in clay. Water again when the top few inches of
soil are dry-usually within a week for sandy soi.l, 1 0
days for loam, and up t o two weeks for clay. To enhance
moisture retention, mulch around plants.
Roses are heavy feeders. Many gardeners prefer to
work a controlled-release complete fertilizer into the top
few inches of soil at the start of the growing season,
before applying a mulch. If you don't use a controlled­
release kind, feed repeat-flowering roses every six weeks
with a dry granular fertilizer or every month with a liq­
uid fertilizer. Stop ferti.lizing about six weeks before the
first frost date or in September if you live in a mild-win­
ter climate.
With repeat-flowering roses, remove old flowers
from spent blooms regularly. cutting back several inches
to a five-leaflet leaf. If the rose bears attractive hips. Stop
deadheading in September. You'll be able to enjoy the P LANT I N G B A R E - R O OT R O S ES
brightly colored hips during autumn, and you'll also be
sending a signal to the plant that it's time to slow down
and prepare for dormancy. There's no need to deadhead
roses that flower just once a year.

PR U N I N G
Prune repeat-blooming roses just before dormancy ends in
late wimer or early spring. But prune roses that bloom only
once a season, such as many old-fashioned types, just after
the bloom period ends. Strong new growth produced
after bloom will bear flowers the following spring.
The amount of pruning you'll do depends on the
rose. Most old garden and modern shrub roses need lit­
tle pruning; prune simply to remove dead or damaged
limbs or to lighdy control growth . Other roses, such as
hybrid teas and grandifloras, usually get more extensive
prun.ing; they tend to produce larger blooms on longer,
stronger stems if a portion of the previous year's growth
is shortened, and weak and old wood is removed. When
you prune, first remove any weakened or winter-dam­
aged stems, then cut out stems growing at odd angles
(see the illustrations below). Dig a planting hole broad and deep enough to accommodate the
After you have removed all unwanted growth, roots easily without cramping or bending them to fit. Make a
reduce the length of the remaining stems. In mild-winter firm cone of soil in the hole and position the plant at the same
regions, cut them back by about a third to a half. In depth it grew in the field (or slightly higher) with the bud union
cold-winter regions, cut out dead and damaged stems above the surrounding soil; use a stick to check the level. Fill
after you remove protection; the final size of the bush in with backfill nearly to the hole's top, firming it with your
depends on the severity of the past wimer. fingers. Then add water. If the plant settles, raise it to the
proper level. Fil l the hole with remaining soil.

P ru n i n g R o s e s

fJ

GROWTH
BUD

o Pruning shears with bypass (scissor­
action) blades m a ke the clea nest c uts.
Hold them with the cutting blade lower­
most a nd the hook a bove.
G A good pruning cut sla nts at a bout
a 45° angle. Its lowest point is opposite
to and slightly higher than the growth
bud on the stem.
o When removing an entire cane, cut
it flush with the bud union or growth
from which is sprang. If you leave a
stub, it will die back into the union,
allowing entry for disease.

ROSES 355
 A Sampler of Roses
'Margo Koster'
S m a l l hedges , borders , a n d c o n ­
t a i ners Little roses that bloom con­
stantly will never go out of fashion;
they're just too effective in too many
senings. Use them in drifts like
perennials, as color accents in
containers, and as low hedges or
borders along a bed, path, or
driveway. Expect these roses to form
bushy plants 1 Y, to 3 feet high.
Superb choices include miniatures,
polyanthas, and f1oribundas, such as
' Magic Carrousel' or 'Sweet Vivien'
( pink and white) , 'Green Ice' ( green
and white), 'Fairhope' or 'Rise 'n'
Shine' (yellow), 'Sweet Chariot'
( mauve), 'Katharina Zeimet' or
'White Pet' (white), 'Margo Koster'
or 'Millie Walters' (coral), 'China
Doll' or 'Pinkie' (pink), or 'Jean
Kenneally' (pale apricot), 'Impatient'
or 'Pride 'n' Joy' (orange), 'Beauty
Secret' or 'Martha Gonzales' (red) ,
'Show Biz' (scarlet) .
M e d i u m hedges , borders , a n d
s p ec i me n s These grow 4-5 feet tall
and wide: ' Iceberg' (white) ,
356 CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLANTS
'Ballerina'
'European a' ( red), 'La Marne' (pink
and white) , 'Perle d'Or' (apricot) ,
'Valentine' ( red) , 'Carefree Wonder'
(pink), 'Ballerina' (pink and white),
' Belinda's Dream' (pink) , 'Archduke
Charles' (red and pink), and 'Bonica'
(pale pink) .
Ta l l hedges a n d borders Big
bushes that grow 6 feet tall and wide
include 'Sally Holmes' (pale peach) ,
'Sparrieshoop' ( light salmon pink),
' Mutabilis' ( multicolored), 'Hansa'
( mauve) , 'Westerland' (orange) ,
'Graham Thomas' (gold yellow) ,
'Heritage' (pale pink) , 'Queen
Elizabeth' (salmon pink), ' Mrs. B .R.
Cant' (soft crimson) , and 'Linda
Campbell' ( red ) .
G r o u n d covers Some roses sprawl
on the ground or form low, graceful
mounds. They cover banks, cascade
over walls, or fill large containers:
'Ralph's Creeper' (red and white),
'Magic Carpet' (mauve ) , 'Alba
Meidiland' (white), 'Pearl Drift'
(pale pink) , 'The Fairy' (pink) ,
'Double D e l ight'
' Memorial Rose' (white), 'Red
Cascade' ( red), and 'Flower Carpet'
(pink, white, and red ) .
S u per fragra nt Distinctively
scented roses are a double delight.
Place them where you can enjoy the
beauty and perfume close up. Good
choices include 'Hermosa' (blue­
pink) , 'Mrs. Oakley Fisber' (apricot) ,
'Souvenir d e l a Malmaison' ( p ale
pink), 'SWl Flare' (yellow ) , 'Fair
Bianca' (white), 'Ambridge Rose'
(pale peach) , ' Bayse's Blueberry'
(dark pink ) , 'Kronprincessin
Viktoria' (white), 'Clotilde Soupert'
(creamy pink) , 'Belle Story' (creamy
peach) , 'La France' (silvery pink),
'Rose de Rescht' (dark pink ) , 'Angel
Face' ( lavender), 'Fragrant Cloud'
(orange ) , 'Madame Isaac Pereire'
(dark pink ) , 'Oklahoma' (dark red) ,
and 'Double Delight' ( red and
white ) .
S hort c l i m bers f o r p i l l a rs These
are tall roses that produce long, 8-1 0
foot stems that are perfect for train-
'Abraham Darby'
ing around posts and columns. ' Don
Juan' { dark red}, 'Abraham Darby'
(apricot pink), 'Golden Showers'
(yellow), 'Prosperity' {white}, 'Aloha'
(pink), 'Maggie' ( soft crimson ) , and
'Madame Isaac Pereire' (dark pink).
M e d i u m -s ized f lex i b l e c l i m bers
for fences and t re l l ises Limber­
limbed roses have stems 1 0-12
feet long: 'Red Founrain' { red},
'Sombreuil' (white ) , 'Compassion'
(peach), 'Buff Beauty' ( apricot) ,
'Climbing Angel Face' {lavender},
'Parade' (pin k ) , and ' Yellow Blaze'
(yellow) .
Large, vigorous c l i m bers for
arbors a n d w a l l s These are the
biggest, to 20 feet, for situations
where you have a lot of space to
cover: 'Climbing Queen Elizabeth'
(salmon pink), 'Climbing Iceberg'
(white), 'Madame Alfred Carriere'
(cream), 'Climbing Crimson Glory'
(red ) , 'Dortmund' (red) , 'New
Dawn' (pale p ink), and 'Mermaid'
(yellow) .
'Heritage'
Thornless roses These include
Lady Banks ( white or yellow
chmber), 'Aimee Vibert' {white
climber ! , 'Cn§puscule' ( a pricot
climber), 'Zepherine Drouhin'
{ deep pink climber ! , 'Climbing
Pinkie' ( pink climber!, 'Heritage'
( light pink bush ) , 'Paul Neyron'
( cerise pink bush ) , 'Reine des
Violettes' ( purple bush ) , 'Mrs.
Dudley Cross' ( yellow and pink
bush ) , 'Marie Pavie' (white bush),
'Smooth Prince' ( red bush ) , and
' Veilchenblau' ( purple rambler) .
Roses t h a t bloom i n l ight shade
Look for 'Lavender Lassie' (lavender
pink climber), 'Climbing Cecile
Brunner' ( pale pink ) , 'Old Blush'
(pink bush or chmber ) , 'Marie Pavie'
(white bush), 'Penelope' ( pale apri­
cot bush ) , and 'Eutin' (red bush ) .
Hardy roses I f you live i n zones 3-5
you need roses that are cold-tolerant.
These are some of the best, grouped
by color with the type rose noted in
parenrheses.
'Graham Thomas'
Pink: ' Belle Poitevine' (hybrid
rugosa), 'Celestial' ( alba ) , ' Delicata'
(hybrid rugosa), 'Frau Dagmar
Hartopp' (hybrid rugosa), 'Great
Maiden's Blush' {alba } , 'Jens Munk'
(hybrid rugosa), 'John Cabot'
(shru b ) , 'The Fairy' ( polyantha) ,
'Therese Bugnet' (hybrid rugosa) ,
'William Baffin' (shru b ) ,
White: 'Blanc Double de
Coubert' (hybrid rugosa), 'Henry
Hudson' ( hybrid rugosa ) , 'Madame
Plantier' ( alba ) , Rosa rugosa alba
(species) .
Red: 'Champlain' {shrub},
'Dortmund' (shrub ) , 'F. J.
Grootendorst' (hybrid rugosa) ,
'Hansa' (hybrid rugosa), 'Roseraie
de I'Hay' (hybrid rugosa) , 'Rugosa
Magnifica' (hybrid rugosa) .
Yellow: 'Golden Wings' (shrub ) ,
'Graham Thomas' {shrub}, 'Sun
Flare' ( f\oribunda) .
A SAMPLER OF ROSES 357
Annual and Biennial Flowers
FAST A N D F U R I O U S B L OO M S
U S I N G A N N U A LS
Flowering annuals provide quick and showy color that
can bring instant drama to an otherwise quiet corner of
the landscape. Use annuals to fill spaces berween shrubs
in mixed borders, set them out for temporary color in a
newly planted rose garden or perennial flower border,
and put them in pots or window boxes where you want
continuous color.
For the best effect in beds and borders, group at
least three plants (six are better) of a single color. Certain
annuals, however, seem to look most natural in a confetti
mix of colors-pastel cosmos and the State Fair strain
zinnias for example.
Where you would like broad sheets of color, limit
annuals to a single shade and species. A long, sweeping
bed of pink petunias or bright red salvias can be an
attention-getter in front of an evergreen hedge or along
a brick patio.
Consider seeding annuals in a kitchen garden;
they will add color and fragrance. And many annuals
provide a supply of cut flowers for indoor arrangements.
Those that keep their color when dried-sea lavender
( Limonium) is an example-are ideal for floral crafts.

P LA N T I N G A N N U A L S
The best time t o plant annuals depends o n t h e specific
plant and your climate. Annuals are designated as cool­
season or warm-season, based on their hardiness and
Rosy 'Dreamland' zinnias and white and b l u e types o f annual sage ability to grow in cool soils.
produce a carpet of color from midsummer to fa l l . Cool-season annuals, such as pansy ( Viola), p rinlrose
(Primula), and calendula, grow best in the cool soils and
Annuals fill the landscape with quick, dependable color
in every imaginable hue. These are plants that germi­
nate, flower profusely, set seed, and die, all in a single RECOMMENDED SPACING AREA PLANTS WILL COVER
growing season. In contrast, biennials take two seasons BETWEEN PLANTS 48 PLANTS' 64 PLANTS'
to complete their life cycle, while perennials (pages 346 4 in. 4Y1 sq. It. 6 sq. It.
through 3 5 3 ) can live and bloom for many years. 6 in. 10 sq ft. 13Y1 s q ft.
Although the annual-biennial-perennial distinction 8 in. 18 sq ft. 24Y1 sq. ft.
seems clear on paper, it's somewhat bl�lrred in the 10 in. 28Y1 s q . It. 38Y1 s q . ft.
garden. For example, some tender perennials-such 12 in. 41Y1 s q . ft. 55Y1 s q . ft.
as geranium ( Pelargonium), some kinds of salvia, and
verbena-flower year after year in mild-winter climates *Typical number of plants in a nursery flat
but are grown as annuals where winters are cold.

358 CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLANTS

mild temperatures of spring and fall. Most withstand B ro a d c a st i n g S e e d s
fairly heavy frosts. \Xlhen the weather turns hot, they set
seed and deteriorate. If you live in a cold-winter area i n a Pre pa r e d B e d
(zones 3 through 7 ) , plant these annuals in very early
spring, as soon as the soil can be worked. To bloom
vigorously, they must develop roms and foliaO'e durinO'
"
cool weather. L1 mild-winter reaions (zones S throu a h
1 1 ) , plant cool-season annuals i� fall for bloom in \� nter
and early spring.
Warm-season annuals include marigold ( Tagetes),
zinnia, and impatiens. These plants grow and flower best
in the warm months of late spring, summer, and early
fall; they're cold-tender and may perish in a late frost if
planted too early in spring. In cold-winter climates, set
out warm-season annuals after the danger of frost has o Outline the areas for each o For more even cover,
passed. In warm-winter areas, plant them in midspring. kind of seed with gypsum, shake each kind of seed in a
Careful soil preparation helps get annuals off to a good flour, or stakes and string. covered can with several
start and keep them growing well all season. Dig out any times its bulk of sand.
weeds on the site and add a 3 - inch layer of compost, well­
rotted manure, or mher organic amendment. It's also a
good idea to add a complete fertilizer; follow the package
directions for amounts. Dig or till amendments and
fertilizer into the soil, and then rake the bed smooth.
Start annuals from seed sown in pots or directly in
the garden (the steps for this are outlined at right ) , or
buy started plants at a n ursery. For best results, choose
relatively small plants with healthy foliage. Plants with
yellowing leaves and those that are leggy, rootbound, or
too big for their pots will establish slowly in your garden,
and they'll usually bloom poorly. o Scatter the seed-sa nd o Spread a very t h i n layer of
For even spacing, measure the distance between m ixture evenly over planting mulch over the bed to reta in
plants with a piece of wood of the desired length. The areas. Rake lightly, barely moisture, keep surface from
table of recommended spacing on the bottom of the covering the seeds with soil . crusting, and hide the seeds
facing page shows the area that will be covered by a from birds.
particular number of plants set out at various spacings.
Plant in a diamond pattern as shown for ground covers
on page 3 3 2 .
After planting, water thoroughly. Apply a 2 - t o 4 -
inch layer of mulch (such as compost, ground bark, o r
p i n e needles) t o conserve moisture a n d help p revent
weeds from becoming established.

db
Wait until late spring or early summer to sow seeds of zinnias
e Water with a f i n e spray to o After seedlings have two
•

and marigolds. They'll languish or fail in cool soil.

• Where winters dip rarely or briefly below freezing, plant cool­ keep the soil surface barely sets of true leaves, t h i n those
season annuals in fall. d a m p u ntil the seeds sprout. that are too closely spaced.
• When you have a choice, choose bedding plants that are not Gradually decrease watering Transplant thin ned seedlings
yet flowering rather than ones that are. frequency after they sprout. to fill e m pty spaces i n bed.

ANNUAL AND BIENNIAL FLOWERS 359

 A Sampler of Annuals
Floss flower (Ageratum houstonianum)
WAR M - S EA S O N A N N U A LS
Floss flower ( Ageratum houston i­
anum) Full sun or partial shade.
FI uffy flower tassels come in azu re
blue, lavender, pink, or white on
plants 1 to 2 V, feet tall. Blooms early
summer to fall. Space dwarf varieties
6 inches apart, tall ones, 1 to 1 V, feet
apart.
Amethyst flower ( Browallia) Partial
shade. Choice plants for connois­
seurs of blue flowers. Bears one­
sided clusters of lobelialike blooms
ill brilliant blue, violet, or white;
blue and violet flowers are accented
by contrasting white center. Grows
1-2 feet taU . Easy from seed. Plant
9-1 2 inches apart.
M a dagascar p e r i w i n k l e
( Catharanthus roseus) Full sun or
partial shade. Phloxljke flowers bloom
in shades of pink, rose, lavender, and
white on plants 4 to 24 inches tall,
depending on the variety. Thrives in
hot conditions, whether dry or humid.
Space 8-1 2 inches apart.
360 CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLANTS
Madagascar periwinkle ( Catharanthus roseus)
C e l o s i a ( Celosia argentea) Full sun.
Un usual blooms in electric shades of
yellow, orange, pink, red, and pur­
ple. Flowers come in two forms:
C a. plu1120sa has blossoms resem­
bling ostrich plumes. while C a.
crlstata has velvety crested flowers
that resemble the vivid combs of a
rooster. Both types make excellent
dried flowers. Plants range in height
from 1-3 feet, depending on variety.
Space plants 9-1 2 inches apart.
Coreopsis ( Coreopsis tinctorial
FuJJ sun. Daisylike flowers in yellow,
orange, and reddish; some forms are
banded with contrasting colors.
Grows 1 )1,-3 feet tall. May need
staking. Easy to grow from seed.
Thin seedlings to 6-8 inches apart.
Thrives in heat. Can take some
dryness. ( Don't confuse it with
perennial lanceleaf coreopsis; see
page 349.)
C o s m o s Full sun or partial shade.
Showy daisyljke flowers nod above
lacy foliage from summer through
Yellow cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus)
faU. Fast growing plants range from
2-7 feet; tall kinds are good for
background planting. C blpinnatus
has flowers in white, bicolors, and
shades of pink, lavender, purple,
and crimson. Yellow cosmos
(C sulpiJureus) , has bold yellow to
deep orange blossoms. Both grow
best in soil that is dry and not very
fertile. Space 1 foot apart.
G l o b e a m a ra nth ( Gomphrena) Full
sun. Cloverlike blossoms in red,
pink, orange, purple, and white are
borne on plants 9 inches to 2 feet
tall. Easy to dry for winter bouquets.
Space plants 8-12 inches apart.
S u nfl ower ( Helianthus annuus)
Full sun. Huge radiant blooms in
yellow, orange, maroon, creamy
white, and bicolors. Depending on
variety, plants grow 2-12 feet taJl,
with flower heads 4- 1 2 inches
across. The flowers are followed by
edible seeds that are relished by
birds. Stake the tallest varieties.
Plant I V, feet apart.
Impatiens ( Impatiens wafferiana)
Strawflower ( He/ichrysum bractea­
tum) Full sun. Flowers have straw­
like petals with velvety centers in
shades of yellow, orange, red, pink,
and white. They hold their color
indefinitely when dried. Grows
12-36 inches tall, depending on
variety. Easy from seed or trans­
plants. Space 1 2 inches apart.
I m patiens ( Impatiens waIJeriana)
Partial to full shade_ Invaluable for
providing months of color in sites
too shady for most other annuals.
Single or double flowers come in
every color but blue. Dwarf varieties
grow 4-12 inches tall; space these 6
inches apart. Tall kinds reach 2 feet;
space 1 foot apart.
Morning gl ory ( Ipomoea tricolor)
Full sun. Large trumpet-shaped
flowers, mostly in shades of blue,
pink, and white, are borne on a fast­
growing, climbing vine. Individual
flowers last only one day. Needs a
trellis or fence to climb on. Can also
be grown among corn or sunflower
Monkey flower (Mimulus hybridus)
stalks. Grow from seed, which
should be nicked and soaked
overnight before sowing. Reseeds
easily and can become weedy. Space
plants 12 inches apart.
Sweet a lyssum ( Lobu/aria maritima)
FuU sun to partial shade. Masses of
tiny Howers in white, pink, or violet.
Low-growing, spreading plants reach
6-12 inches tall. Use as a quick
ground cover in bulb bed or as a low
border. Space 6-8 inches apart. Easy
to grow from seed.
M o nkey flower ( Mimu/us hybridus)
Partial to fuU shade. Showy, velvety
blooms in bright shades of red,
yellow, and orange. The two-lipped
flowers are often spotted and give
the impression of a smiling monkey's
face. Neatly mounded plants grow
12- 1 8 inches high. Space plants 6-8
inches apart.
Flowering tobacco ( Nicotiana a/ata)
FLJJ sun to light shade. Upright,
open plants topped with tubular
Petunia ( Petunia hybrida)
flowers in shades of white, pink, red,
purple, and green. Some are fragrant
at night. Grow 12-48 inches taU.
Space seedlings 12-24 inches apart,
depending on the Lutimate height of
variety.
Petunia ( Petunia hybrida) Full sun.
Richly colored flowers come in red,
pink, blue, purple, yellow, cream,
white, and bicolors. There are two
main flower types, single and dou­
ble; single blossoms are simple trum­
pets, while double ones are ruffled
blooms resembling carnations.
Plants range from 8-27 inches tall.
Space 7-10 inches apart.
Phlox ( Ph/ox drummondil) Full sun.
Clusters of colorful, slightly fragrant
I - inch flowers in shades of lavender,
pink, red, white, and yellow. Profuse
bloom is best used in masses and is
great in containers. Flowes are also
ideal for cutting. Grows 6-20
inches tall . Space transplants 1 0
inches apart.
A SAMPLER Of ANNUALS 361
 A Sampler of Annuals
Scarlet sage (Salvia splendens)
Moss rose ( Portulaca grandiflora)
FulJ sun. An old-fashioned favorite
that flourishes in sunny, dry areas
where few other annuals will thrive.
Silky-petaled roselike blossoms in
shades of white, yelJow, orange, red,
and pink cover the sprawling, succu­
lent plants. Flowers open in sun and
close in late afternoon . ExcelJent in
pots and hanging baskets. Start from
seed or transplants, spacing plants
9- 1 2 inches apart.
S c a r l et sage ( Salvia splendens)
Full sun or partial shade. Red,
salmon, purple, lavender, or white
flowers on gray-green plants 8-30
inches talJ. Use as a talJ border or
background plant. Space transplants
8-1 2 inches apart. Perennial mealy­
cup sage (S /aril1acea) is usually
grown as an annual. Tall spikes of
deep blue or silvery white flowers
bloom spring until falJ.
P a i nted tongue ( Salpiglossis
sinuata) Full sun. Brilliant display
of trumpet-shaped flowers i n an
362 CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLANTS
Marigold ( Tageles)
unusual combination of velvety tex­
ture, delicate veining, and muted,
rich colors. Blooms in shades of
white, yellow, pink, red, purple, and
brown are held i n loose clusters on
wiry stems. Grows 12-3 6 inches tall,
depending on variety. Does best in
cool-summer climates. Space trans­
plants 1 2 inches apart.
C r e e p i n g z i n n i a ( San vitalia procum­
bens) Full sun. Tiny, bright, zinnia­
like flowers and creeping habit make
an attractive edging for a border,
clumped in a rock garden, or cas­
cading from a window box or hang­
ing basket. Produces masses of
single or double blooms in warm
shades of orange, yellow, and white
with p u rplish brown centers. Easy
to grow from seed. Space plants
3 -6 inches apart .
M a r i g o l d ( Tagetes) Full sun. Robust,
fast growing, and virtually trouble­
free, with flowers in vibrant shades
of yellow, orange, and orange red, as
well as white and bicolors. Foliage
Black-eyed Susan vine ( Thunbergia alala)
has a pungent scent. T erecta, called
African marigold ( although all gar­
den marigolds are descended from
species native to Mexico), has large
blossoms-fully double i n most
varieties-on plants 20-3 6 inches
tall. T patula, the French marigold,
bears single or double flowers and
grows 6-1 8 inches tall. Space dwarf
varieties about 6 inches apart, taller
kinds 1-2 feet apart. Stake tall
marigolds early in the season to keep
them from toppling.
B l a c k-eyed S u s a n v i n e ( Thunbergia
alata) Full sun to light shade. This
t\vining vine is studded with flaring
I -inch flowers in shades of white,
yellow, and orange with the name­
sake dark center. A perennial i n mild
winter climates, it is usually grown
as an annual. Looks great on fences
and trellises, and dwarf types are
attractive when trailing from hanging
baskets and window boxes. Can
climb up to 10 feet high. Space
transplants 12 inches apart.
Zinnia (Zinnia elegans)
G a rd e n verbena ( Verbena hybrida)
Full sun. Small, richly colored flow­
ers in shades of white, pink, red, pur­
ple, blue, and bicolor are borne in
flat clusters 2-3 inches wide. Plants,
available in mounded, trailing, and
dwarf forms, cover themselves with
bloom. Leaves are bright green and
serrated. Can be used as a small-scale
ground cover. Perennial in mild
winter climates. Space transplants
12-18 inches apart.
Z i n n i a ( Zinnia elegans) Full sun.
On plants 1-3 feet rall, colorful
daisylike flowers bloom in shades
of yellow, orange, red, pink, and
purple, as well as white and bicol­
ors. Excellent cut flowers. These
are bot weather plants that don 't
benefit from early planting. Easy
from seeds sown where you want
plants to grow. Space 6-12 inches
apart. Favorite cutting variety is
4-foot-tall Blue Point strain. Zinnias
are susceptible to mildew; to pre­
vent it, water at ground level rather
than sprinkling.
Snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus)
COOL-SEASON A N N U A LS
Snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus)
Full sun. Bright colors, pastel
shades, and white flowers bloom on
plants that range from 6- to 8-inch
dwarfs to 3 - foot-tall giants. Sevet'al
flower forms including double, bell­
shaped. and azalea-shaped flowers.
Space dwarf plants 9 inches apart.
taller kinds 15 inches apart. Choose
rust -resistant varieties.
C a l e n d u l a ( Calendula officinalis)
Full sun. Bushy, upright plants with
pungently scented foliage reach I to
1 y, feet rall and bear abundant blos­
soms reminiscent of double daisies.
Colors include orange and bright
yellow as well as white and more
subtle shades of cream, apricot, and
soft yellow. The edible petals have a
s l ightly tangy flavor. Space plants
12-14 inches apart.
Bachelor's button ( Centaurea
cyanus) Full sun. Lovely blue, red,
or white flowers atop wiry stems
1-2 feet tall. Great fresh or dried cut
Calendula ( Calendula officinalis)
flower; blue is the classic bouton­
niere. Easy from seed, and self sows.
Thin seedlings to 12 inches apart.
M i n i ature marguerite
(Chrysanthemum paludosum) Full
sun. Perfect miniature daisylike
flowers on compact, mounded plants
6-12 inches high. Ideal edging or
pot plant. Grow from seed or trans­
plants, spacing 12 inches apart.
larkspur ( Consolida ambigua)
Partial shade. Delicate flowers in
blues, lilac, rose, and white on 4-
foot-tall stalks. May need staking.
Chill seeds in refrigerator for a week
before sowing. Thin seedlings 1-2
feet apart.
Cal ifornia poppy ( Eschscholzia
californica) Full sun. California state
flower. Brilliant-colored silky flowers
in shades of gol d , orange, pink, red,
and white dance above ferny foliage.
Easy from seed. Grows 8-24 inches
tall. Thin seedlings to 6-8 inches.
A SAMPLER OF ANNUALS 363
 A Sampler of Annuals
Sweet pea (Lathyrus odoratus)
G l o b e c a n d y tuft (lberis umbel/ata)
Full sun to partial shade in hot areas.
Clusters of white and pastel blooms
on compact plants reaching 6-1 5
inches tall. Edging or cover for
spring blooming bulbs. Easy from
seed. Thin to 6-9 inches apart.
Sweet pea (Lathyrus odoratus) Full
sun. Fragrant blooms in shades of
pink, purple, blue, salmon, red,
white, cream, and bicolors. Bush
types grow 1-3 feet high; vines can
reach 5 feet or taller. Space seeds or
plants 6- 1 2 inches apart. Provide a
treLLis for climbing types at planting
time.
Lobe l i a (Lobelia erinus) Full sun
to partial shade. Tiny white or blue
flowers on low-growing t o trailing
plants. Reach 6-8 inches tall.
Excellent low border. Space plants
6-8 inches apart.
Stock ( Matthiola incana) Full sun or
partial shade. These old-fashioned
favorites bear 1 - to 3 -foot spikes of
364 CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLANTS
Stock ( Matthiola incana)
clustered single or double flowers
with a wonderful spicy-sweet scent.
Colors include white, cream, pink,
lavender, purple, and red. Long, nar­
row leaves are soft gray-green. Space
plants 9-1 2 inches apart.
Forget-me- not ( Myosotis sylvatica)
Partial shade. Sprays of tiny blue or
white flowers on plants to 2 feet tall.
Good planted under shrubs or as a
bulb cover. Best sown directly where
you want plants t o bloom. Comes
back year after year.
N e m e s i a Full sun. Wide range of
brightly colored flowers on sprawUng
1 0- 1 8 inch talJ plants. Great in pots
or hanging baskets. Start from seed or
transplants. Space 6-8 inches apart.
I c e l a n d p o p py ( Papaver nudicaule)
Full sun. Cupped, slightly fragrant
flowers up to 4 inches wide come in
'shades of white, cream, yellow, and
pink. Borne on hairy stalks 1-2 feet
tall. Space transplants 1 2 inches
apart.
Forget-me-not ( Myosotis sylvatica)
Nasturti u m ( Tropaeolum majus)
Full sun ro partial shade. Broad,
2 Y2-inch-wide spurred flowers in
shades of red, orange, maroon, and
white are lightly fragrant . Roundish
dark green leaves are edible (as are
flowers ) . Climbing varieties reach
about 6 feet high; there are also
smaller bush varieties. Climbs on
string or wire. Can also be used as
a sprawling ground cover i n full sun
or partial shade. Sow seeds where
you want plants to grow.
Pansy a n d v i o l a ( Viola) Full sun or
partial shade. Pansies ( V wittrock­
iana) are much hybridized, and
numerous strains are available.
Most have 2 - to 4 -inch flowers i n
white, blue, mahogany, rose, yellow,
apricot, and purple; the petals are
often striped or blotched. Viola
( V comuta) has blossoms about
l Y2 inches across, in bicolors as well
as in many clear solid colors. Both
pansy and viola grow 8-10 inches
tall; space both 6-8 inches apart.
 A Sampler of Biennials
Hollyhock (Aleea rosea)
H o l lyhock (Alcea rosea) Full sun.
Old-fashioned favorite has 3- to 6-
inch-wide single to double flowers
on stems that range from 2 Y, feer
to a towering 9 feet tall. Blossoms
appear i n summer; colors include
yellow, cream, white, pink, red,
and purple. Rust can be a serious
problem; choose rust-resistant vari­
eties, remove any infected leaves you
see, and avoid overhead watering ( it
can spread rust spores). Plants self­
sow freely. Space 1 1, feet apart.
Canterbury b e l l s ( Campanula
medium) Full sun or partial shade.
Another choice for an old-fashioned
garden, plants send up leafy 2 Y,- to
4-foot stems bearing loose clusters
of bell-shaped flowers 1 -2 inches
across. Blossoms come i n late spring
or early summer. Besides the tradi­
tional blue, colors include purple,
violet, lavender, pink, and white.
Space 1 5 - 1 8 inches apart.
Sweet W i l l i a m ( Dianthus barbatus)
Full sun. With clumps of narrow
Canterbury B e l l s ( Campanula medium)
leaves and fringed flowers, sweet
\'\1i lliam bears an obvious resem­
blance to its perennial relative,
cottage pinks (D p!umaI'Zus) . But
its leaves are green rather than blue
gray, and V,-inch flowers come in
large, dense clusters rather than
singly. A number of named strains
are available, including some with
double flowers; heights range from
6- 1 8 inches. Flowers come in white,
pink shades, red, and purple, and
in striking bicolor combinations,
usually with concentric bands of
color. Space transplants 12-18
inches apart.
Foxglove ( Digitalis purpurea) Light
shade. This cottage garden staple
forms clumps of large, furry leaves
from which tall flowering spikes (to
4 feet or taller) emerge in spring to
early summer. Pendulous, tubular,
2- to 3 -inch-long flowers bloom in
white, lavender, pink, or purple.
Volunteer seedlings often have white
or light-colored blossoms. The leaves
are a source of digitalis, a valuable
Foxglove (Oigitalis purpurea)
medicinal drug (but all parts are
poisonous if ingested). Space plants
1 y, feet apart.
M o n ey p l a nt ( Lunaria annual Full
sun to partial shade in hottest areas.
Old-fashioned plant grown for coin­
like, translucent seed pods that hang
on flower stalks. Small white to pur­
ple flowers appear in spring on l Y,
to 3 foot stalks. Best used in an out­
of-the-way area; reseeds and can
become weedy. Space plants about
12 inches apart.
S i lver sage ( Salvia argentea) Full
sun. Silver sage provides highly
ornamental foliage to admire even
when it's out of bloom. Each plant
is a 2 -foot-wide rosette of 6- to 8-
inch-long, gray-white leaves covered
with silvery, woolly hairs. In the
summer of the plant's second year,
branched, white, woolly flowers rise
to 3 feet, bearing pink- or yellow­
tinted white flowers that are l Y,
inches long. Space plants 12-24
inches apart.
A SAMPLER OF B I E N N IALS 365
Flowering Bulbs
BIG C O L O R rROM S MA L L PAC K A G E S
Some of the best-loved garden Rowers, such as tulips
and daffodils, arise from bulbs-or from corms, tubers,
rhizomes, or tuberous roots. Although traditionally asso­
ciated with spring, some bloom in late winter, summer,
or fal l , making bulbs ideal for single displays and for
mixed borders.
Bulbs are inexpensive, and to get a good splash of
color, you should plant them b y the dozens. Bulbs that
multiply and spread from year to year, such as grape
hyacinths, can be naturalized under t rees or in meadows.
I n naturalized settings, grassy cover disguises bulb
foliage, which must be left until it has yellowed and can
easily be pulled away. I n formal landscapes, plant annu­
als over newly planted bulbs. The flowers will bloom
simultaneously, but the long-blooming annuals will
camouflage the wilting bulb foliage.
In fall, plant bulbs in containers, in Rower boxes,
or along a walkway or path for spring color. Spring­
planted bulbs, such as gladiolus, can be set out at four­
week intervals to provide an ongoing source of cut
Rowers. Autumn-blooming bulbs, such as autumn cro­
cus, saffron crocus, and spider lily, offer special b u rsts
of late-season color.

Spring-blooming bulbs in full display include various tulips,
pale blue anemones, a wash of dark blue grape hyacinths, and lofty
red-and-orange crown imperial (Fritiflaria).
H OW B U L B S G R OW
All these plants grow from underground structures that
serve as storage organs, accumulating a reserve of nutri­
ents to supply energy for growth and bloom in the year
to come. Although gardeners typically call all such struc­
tures "bulbs, " botanists divide them into five types: true
bulb, corm, tuber, rhizome, and tuberous root.

F i ve Types of B u l b s

TRUE BULB CORM TUBER RHIZOME TUBEROUS ROOT

( LEUCOJUM) ( WATSON/A) (TUBEROUS BEGONIA) (CALLA LILY) (DAHLIA)

366 CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLANTS

B U Y I N G B U LBS
When you shop, look for plump, firm bulbs thar feel
heavy for their size. Avoid soft or squashy bulbs; they
may have some sort of rot. Also steer clear of liohtweioht
"
or shriveled bulbs, because these may have los/ too m � ch
moisture to recover well.
Large bulbs are likely to give the most impressive
performance. The biggest tulip and daffodil bulbs, for
example, produce larger flowers on taller, thicker stems.
But if you're willing to give bulbs a year or two to build
themselves up in your garden, you'll get fine results with
smaller sizes of most kinds of bulbs-and their lower
cost makes them a good buy.
PLANTI N G B U LBS
T o speed up planting, use a bulb p l ante r (left) or excavate the
entire planting area to the correct depth ( r ig ht) .
Like most plants, bulbs need good drainage. If your soil
drains very poorly, it's best to plant on a slope or in
raised beds. You can prepare an entire bed for bulbs
alone, or intersperse bLJbs among existing plants. To
plant a bed, remove weeds and other vegetation. Spread
1 to 3 inches of an organic amendment over the soil and
sprinkle on a complete fertilizer, following the label
directions for amounts. Dig or till in these additions,
rake the soil smooth, and you're ready to plant.
In most soils, bulbs should be planted about three
times as deep as the bulb is wide. In hot climates or
sandy soils, plant slightly deeper; in heavy soils, plant
slightly shallower. Most bulbs can be set quite close
together to provide a mass of blooms, but keep in mind
that closely spaced bulbs will need dividing sooner than
NATU RALIZ I N G B U LBS
Some bulbs, corms, a n d tubers c a n b e planted i n meadows,
fields, or sunny woodlands, where they will perform year after
year as though they were wildflowers. By choosing bulbs that
adapt to naturalizing
and that thrive in
your climate and
location, you can
enjoy a n annual dis­
play without much
work. However, if
bulbs aren't likely to
receive enough water
naturally, be pre­
Partly because burrowing rodents and pared to supply it
deer avoid them, daffodils are among the through irrigation.
most prolific naturalizers. The traditional
naturalizing method
is to broadcast a handful of bulbs over the desired planting
area, and then plant them where they fal l . To achieve a more
rea listic effect, you may need to adjust the pattern slightly;
the drift should be denser at one end or near the center, as if
the bulbs began to grow in one spot, and then gradually
spread to colonize oullying territory. After you have the pat­
tern you want, use a trowel or bulb planter to set the bulbs at
their preferred depths.
Following bloom, fertilize the bulbs and a llow the foliage
to remain until it withers. After number of years, overcrowd­
ing may cause a decrease in the number of flowers. When
this happens it's time to dig, divide, and replant.
ing depth. Add a handful of compost, set in the bulb,
and cover with soil.
After planting, water thoroughly to establish good
contact between bulb and soil and to provide moisture
to initiate root growth.
• Buy bulbs early for best selection .

those given more room to grow. For spacing, see the • Buy the largest-size bulbs available.
individual descriptions starting on page 368. • Water thoroughly after planting.

To plant bulbs among other plants, use a trowel or • To extend flowering, mix early, m idseason, and late-blooming

bulb planter to dig a hole for each bulb, making the hole varieties.
a couple of inches deeper than the recommended plant-

FLOWERING BULBS 367

 A Sampler of Bulbs
Ornamental o n i o n (Allium)
Ornamental o n i o n (Allium) Bulb.
zones 3 - 1 1 , depending on species.
Regular water during growth and
bloom; full sun or partial shade.
Bears roundish clusters of small
flowers at ends of leafless stems that
range in height from 6 inches to 5
feet taU. Many are delightfully fra­
grant. Bloom in spring or summer
with flowers in white and shades of
pink, rose, violet, red, blue, and
yellow. In spring or fall, plant as
deep as their height or width,
whichever is greater. Space smaller
ones 4-6 inches apart, larger ones
8- 1 2 inches apart.
B e l la donna l i l y (Amaryllis bel­
ladonna) Bulb, zones 8-1 1 . Regular
water while leaves grow in winter;
dry during summer. Best in areas
with warm, dry summers and wet
winters. Straplike leaves grow from
clump becoming about 1 foot tall,
2 feet wide. Leaves die back by early
summer. About six weeks later,
2-3 foot flower stalks rise from
bare earth, each topped by cluster
368 CHOOSING THE RIGHT
Anemone (Anemone blanda)
of 4-12 fragrant, trumpet-shaped
pink flowers. Plant dormant bulbs
after bloom, about 1 foot apart. All
parts of this plant a re poisonous
if consumed.
A nem one (Anemone blanda) Tuber,
zones 6-1 0. Regular water; partial
shade. Sky blue flowers held above
a low mat of soft, hairy leaves in
spring. Plant in fall or spring, setting
tubers 1 -2 inches deep and 8- 1 2
inches apart. Great ground cover
under trees.
Tuberous begoni a ( Begonia hybrida)
Tuber, zones 9- 1 1 (or dig and store
over winter} . Regular water; light
shade. Spectacular summer- to fall­
blooming bulbs most often grown in
pots. Available in every flower color
except blue, including many multicol­
ored types. Flower form also varies
from single to double and from frilly
tb roselike. Plant form is upright to
pendulous (ideal for hanging bas­
kets ) , 1 2- 1 8 inches tall. Plant in
early spring.
PLANTS
Crocus
Fancy-leaved c a l a d i u m ( Caladium
bicolor) Tuber, zones 1 0- 1 1 , or dig
and store over winter. Regular water
during growth. Grown for large and
colorful leaves, especially in southern
U . S . and Hawaii. Many varieties;
most are 2 feet high and wide. All
need rich soil, high humidity, and
warmth ( rarely below 60°F ) . Out­
doors, plant in spring, knobby side
up so tops are level with soil surface.
Keep moist and fertilized.
Crocus Corm, zones 3-1 1 . Regular
water during growth and bloom; full
sun or partial shade. Most crocuses
bloom in late winter or early spring,
bearing tubular 1 Y2 - to 3 - inch-Iong
flowers in a rainbow of colors.
Others, including saffron crocus
(C sativus) and C speciosus, bloom
in fall, with flowers rising from bare
earth weeks or even days after plant­
ing. Plant corms of both spring- and
fall-blooming types as soon as they
are available in autumn, setting them
2-3 inches deep and 3-4 inches
apart in light, porous soil.
Freesia
D a h l i a Tuberous root, all zones.
Regular water d u ring growth and
bloom; full sun ( partial shade
where summers are hor ) . Blooming
from s u mmer through faU, dahlias
are available in n umerous colors
and floral forms. Flowers range
from 2-12 inches across; plant
height varies from 1-7 feet or more
(stake varieties that grow more than
4 feet tal! ) . Plant after the last frost
in spring, setting roots 4-6 inches
deep. Space tall varieties 4-5 feet
apart, shorter ones 1 to 1 y, feet
apart. Although roots can be left in
the ground where win ter tempera­
tures remain above 20°F, gardeners
i n most areas prefer ro dig them
a n n ually.
Freesia Corm, zones 8-1 1 . Regular
water during growth and bloom; full
sun or partial shade. In spring, wiry
1 - to 1 Y"£oot stems bear spikes of
tubular flowers i n aLllost all shades
but green. Plant in fall, 2 inches
deep and 2 inches apart. Freesia
naturalizes readily.
Snowdrop ( Galanthus nivalisl
S n owdrop ( Galanthus nivalis) Bulb,
zones 3-9. Regular water during
growth and bloom; full sun or par­
tial shade. Among the first bulbs ro
bloom as winter draws to a close.
Plants grow 6-8 inches tall, bearing
one nodding bell-shaped white
flower on each stalk. Best suited to
cold-winter climates. Plant bulbs in
fall, setting them 3-4 inches deep
and 3 inches apart.
G l a d i o l u s Corm, zones 6- 1 1 . Regular
water during growth and bloom;
full sun. These long-time favorites
have sword-shaped leaves and flar­
ing funnel-shaped flowers borne in
slender spikes. Large summer-flow­
ering garden kinds (grandiflora
hybrids) grow 3-6 feet tall and
come in a wide variety of colors.
Plant corms in spring after soil has
warmed; they'll bloom in 65-100
days. To enjoy an extended flower­
ing season, plant corms at one- to
two-week intervals over a period of
four to six weeks. Set each corm
about four times deeper than it is
Dutch hyacinth ( Hyacinthus)
thick; space 4-6 i n ches apart. [n the
zones listed, corms can overwinter
in the ground, although many gar­
deners p refer to dig them up. In
colder regions, they must be dug
and stored in a frost-free location.
Dutch hya c i nth ( Hyacinthus) Bulb,
zones 4-1 1 . Regular water during
growth and bloom. Dutch hyacinth
is a spring bloomer with I -foot-tall
spikes densely packed with waxy,
bell-like fragrant flowers in shades
of blue, purple, red, pink, buff, and
white. It grows best in cold-winter
areas, where it lasts from year to
year; in these zones, plant in
September or October. In mild
areas, bulbs will not persist and are
best treated as annuals; plant from
October to December. Set bulbs 4-5
inches deep, 4-5 inches apart.
I ri s Rhizome, zones 3-1 1 , depending
on type. Full sun or light shade.
Regular water during growing sea­
son. The most widely grown irises
are bearded kinds that grow from
A SAMPLER OF B ULBS 369
 A Sampler of Bulbs
Bearded iris
rhizomes. Bearded irises come in a
dazzling array of colors and color
combinations; plant sizes also vary
widely. Plant in July or August in
cold-winter zones, in September or
October where summers are hot.
Space rhizomes 1-2 feet apart,
setting them with their tops just
beneath the soil surface and spread­
ing out the roots.
Afri can corn Ii Iy ( lxia maculata)
Corm, zones 8-1 1 . Regular water
during growth; keep dry once leaves
begin to fade. Leaves are narrow and
grasslike. Spikes bearing 2-inch
flowers come on wiry stems in late
spring. Plant in fall, setting corms
4 inches deep, then mulch .
S n owflake ( Leucojum aestivum)
Bulb, zones 3 - 1 1 . Regular water
during growth and bloom; full sun
to light shade. Small, nodding white
flowers with green-tipped segments
reach about 1 Y, feet tall in late win­
ter to spring. Prefers shade in hot
climates. Great for naturalizing
370 CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLANTS
Snowflake (Leucojum aestivum)
under trees. Plant in fall, 3-4 inches
deep and 4 inches apart.
H y b r i d l i l i e s ( L ilium) Bulb, zones
4-1 1 . Keep soil moist; full sun or par­
tial shade. Asiatic hybrid Wies bloom
in early summer on strong, stems 1 y,
to 4)1, feet tall. The 4 - to 6-inch blos­
soms come in colors ranging from
white through yellow and orange to
pink and red. Oriental hybrids bloom
later, in midsummer to early fall.
Their 2- to 6-foot stems bear big (up
to 9-inch) , fragrant Howers with pink
or white petals marked with center
stripes and speckles. Plant as soon
as possible after you get them. Space
1 foot apart. Cover smaller bulbs with
2-3 inches of soil, medium-size ones
with 3-4 inches, and larger ones with
4-6 inches.
Grape h ya c i nth ( Muscari
armeniacum) Bulb, zones 3 - 1 1 .
RegLJar water during growth and
bloom; full sun or light shade. Grape
hyacinth's narrow, grassy leaves
emerge in fall and live through
Hybrid l i l ies ( Lilium)
winter's cold and snow. Small, urn­
shaped blue flowers with the scent
of grape juice are carried in 8-inch
spikes, bloomillg in spring. Plant
bulbs in fall, setting them 2 inches
deep and 3 inches apart.
Daffod i l and narcissus ( Narcissus)
BLJb, zones 3 - 1 1 . Regular water
during growth and bloom; hill sun
to part shade. Easy to grow and gen­
erous with their spring flowers, daf­
fodils are classified into 12 divisions,
based in part on differences in
Hower form. Divisions include the
familiar trumpet daffodils, large- and
small-cupped types, and double
forms. Besides yellow and white, col­
ors include shades of orange, apri­
cot, pink, and cream. Plant bulbs
twice as deep as they are tall, spacing
them about 6-8 inches apart.
R a n u n c u l u s ( Ranunculus asiaticus)
Tu ber, zones 8-1 1 . Regular water
during growt.h and bloom; full sun.
Peonylike blooms held above fresh
fernlike foliage on ) )I,- foot stems in
Ranunculus (Ranunculus asiaticus)
early spring. Many shades of white,
cream, yellow, orange, red and pink.
Plant i n fall, 2 inches deep and 6-8
inches apart. In cold-winter areas,
plant i n spring and grow as an
annual, or dig and store in the fall.
H a r l eq u i n flower ( Sparaxis tricolor)
Corm, zones 9-1 0 . Regular water
during growth and bloom, dry after;
full sun. Brilliant blooms above
clumps of swordlike leaves over a
long period in late spring; 1 2 - to 1 8 -
inch-tall flower stems bear spikelike
clusters of small, funnel-shaped
blossoms. Each flower has a yellow
center, surrounded by a dark color,
and another color-red, pink,
orange, or p urple-on the rest of
the petals. Plant corms 2 inches
deep, 3-4 inches apart: in fall where
corms are hardy in the ground, in
early spring i n colder regions. Dig
and store the bulbs in fall in cold­
winter climates.
Tiger flower ( Tigridia pavonia) Bulb,
zones 8 - 1 1 , 1 )1;,-2)1;, feet. Regular
Harlequin flower ( Sparaxis tricolor)
water; full sun, partial shade in hot
summer areas. Flashy summer
blooms are up to 6 inches across.
The three outer segments of each
triangular flower are red, pink,
orange, yellow, or white; the cuplike
center and three smaller inner seg­
ments are usually boldly blotched
with contrasting hues. An individual
flower lasts only one day, but because
each stem carries a number of buds,
bloom lasts for several weeks. Plant
in spring after the weather warms.
Set bulbs 2-4 inches deep, 4-8
inches apart. Dig and store in fall
in cold climates.
Tu l i p ( Tu/ipa) Bulb, zones 3-1 1 .
Regular water during growth and
bloom; full sun to part shade. Hybrid
tulips come in a multitude of colors,
including bright shades, pastels, and
even nearly black. Eleven categories
are early- to late-blooming, 6 inches
to 3 feet tall. Flowers very widely in
form, too, from the classic egg­
shaped blossoms to those that look
like lilies or peonies. Bloom season
Tu l i p ( Tulipa)
ranges from mid- to late spring,
depending on variety. Most need an
extended period of winter chill for
best performance. In mild climates,
refrigerate tulip bulbs for six weeks
before planting (never near apples)
and treat the plants as annuals.
Otherwise, plant bulbs in fall, setting
them three times as deep as they are
wide, spaced 4-8 inches apart.
C a l l a l i ly (Zantedeschia aethiopica)
Rhizome, zones 8-1 1 , 2-4 feet .
Moderate to ample water; full sun,
light shade in hot-summer climates.
Large, white to cream cornucopia­
shaped flowers held beautifully
above shiny rich green arrow-shaped
leaves in spring and early summer.
Excellent cut flower. Plant from fall
through early spring; set rhizomes 4
inches deep, 1 foot apart. Needs
moist soil year-round. Can become
weedy. Semievergreen, does not dig
and store well. Several other callas
may also be available, including
shorter-growing hybrids with cream,
pink, orange, or lavender blooms.
A SAMPLER OF BULBS 37 1
Ornamental Grasses
l ,,\ \L \TCH[ D TEXT U IU:, AND A REF I N E D , N ATURAL LOOK
If you're looking for special effects in your garden,
consider planting ornamental grasses. These versatile
plants offer beauty and grace while demanding minimal
care in return. Once used almost exclusively in prairie
or native gardens, they are now finding their way into
elegant and even fOfmal landscapes.
Ornamental grasses bring new dimensions of
texture, color, height, and graceful motion to the border,
highlighting and enlivening groups of more traditional
perennials. Varying ill size from low tufts to giants rising
to 8 feet or taller, the many choices can serve as edgings,
mix with midsize perennials, and provide accents or
focal points; most are also excellent for containers. Many
have variegated or colored leaves as well as interesting
blooms, and the foliage and flowering stems often persist
into autumn and winter.
Massed groups of clumping grasses can create the
same color impact as landscape shrubs. The taller
plants, such as zebra grass (M'iscal1thus sinensis
'Zebrinus'), can make effective hedges and privacy
screens. In small gardens, use ornamental grasses as
specimens or as accents in borders. In large gardens, fill
wide borders with grasses that have airy textures and
interesting colors. If you have a pond in your garden,
try planting some moisture-loving grasses, such as
Showy and p l umelike flower clusters of maiden grass lend an
imposing presence to a summer border garden.
purple moor grass (Mo/inia caeru/ea), close to the
water's edge, where they will help [0 esrablish a natura·
listie sening.
Early spring is rhe best time for both planting and
dividing ornamental grasses. This is also the time [0 tidy
up the clumps before new growth begins, cutting back
dead foliage.
Of course, grasses aren't perfect. While many are
well·behaved, others can be invasive. For example,
maiden grass variety 'GraciUimus' self sows prolifically.
Giant reed and ribbon grass (Pha/aris arundinacea)
spread quickly through the garden by underground
rhizomes. Research these grasses before adding them
them to your garden.
LEFT: Containers filled with btue fescue and annuat red fountain grass
boost these shorter grasses to new heights.
TOP RtGHT: light of setting sun catches upright seed statks of feather
reed grass. Arching stalks in right foreground are from blue oat grass.
MIODLE RIGHT: Fuzzy, smoke·like seed stalks of pink muhly grass
( Muhlenbergia capillaris) trap autumn light.
BOTTOM RIGHT: Clumps of blue fescue (foreground) and Mexican feather
grass accent ground cover of blue star creeper.
• Avoid planting invasive grasses that produce either viable
seeds or underground runners. Check with local native plant
society.
O R N AMENTAL G R A S S E S 373
 A Sampler of Ornamental Grasses
Bulbous o a t grass (Arrhenafherum elafius
bulbosum 'Variegatum')
Ye l l o w foxta i l grass (A lopecurus
pratensis 'Aureus') Zones 5-10
(5- 1 1 W) . Regular water; full sun,
partial shade .in hottest areas.
Translucent 12-inch-long blades
range from green striped with gold to
almost entirely yellow; in part shade,
it is chartreuse. To keep foliage
attractive and prevent seedlings, shear
flowerheads when they form in mid­
spl-ing. Grows best in cool weather.
B u l b o u s oat grass (Arrhenatherum
elatius bulbosum 'Variegatum')
Zones 3 - 1 0, sun or partial shade.
Blooms in summer; height under 2
feet. White-striped foliage. Showy,
erect, oatlike flower spike. Short­
lived in hot inland areas. Dormant in
summer. Effective as accent in peren­
nial borders and large rock gardens.
Quaki ng grass ( Briza media) Zones
3-9 ( 3 - 1 1 W ) , sun or partial shade.
Blooms in spring; height under 2
feet. Heart-shaped florets resemble
rattlesnake rattles; good for cutting.
Green foliage.
374 CHOOS ING T H E RIGHT PLANTS
Feather reed grass (Calamagrostis acufiflora
'Karl Foerster')
Feath e r reed grass ( Calamagrostis
acutiflora 'Karl F o e rster') Zones 4-9
(4- 1 1 W ) , full sun. Blooms late
spring to fall; height under 5 feet.
Bright green foliage. Erect flower
spikes; blooms vary depending on
climate. Good for cutting.
Deciduous in colder areas. Makes
strong vertical accent plant; plant in
groups or at rear of a border.
Leath e r leaf sedge ( Carex
buchananii) Zones 6-9 (6- 1 1 W ) ,
sun or partial shade. Height under
2 feet. Coppery red-brown foliage
with curled leaf tips. May be short­
lived. Evergreen. U se as accent, in
groups, or combined with blue, gray,
or dark green foliage.
Goldband J a p a n e s e sedge ( Carex
morrowii 'Variegata') Zones 5-9
( 5- 1 1 W ) , shade or partial shade.
Height under 2 feet. Lustrous,
. white-striped foliage. May be short­
lived. Evergreen. Use as accent,
alone or in groups, in borders, or
spilling over rocks or walis.
Goldband Japanese sedge ( Carex morrowii
'Vari egata')
Sea oats ( Chasmanthium latifolium)
Zones 5-1 1 , 2-3 feet. Regular water;
full sun, partial shade in hottest
areas. Broad, bamboolike leaves form
a 2-foot-wide clwnp topped in mid­
summer by arching 2- to 5 - foot flow­
ering stems. The stems carry showers
of silver green spikelets that resemble
flattened clusters of oats. Leaves turn
brown in wimer, when plant should
be cut back to the ground. May need
staking; potentially invasive.
Ye l l ow p a m p a s grass ( Cortaderia
selloana) Zones 8-1 1 , full sun.
Blooms summer to fall; height over 4
feet. Evergreen. Yellow-green leaves
with yellow stripes. Erect, creamy
white flower spikes; good for cutting.
Plant only noninvasive types, such as
'Gold Band' and 'Sun Stripe'. Use as
a dramatic accent with shrubs or in
background plantings.
B l u e fescue ( Festuca) Zones 3-1 1 ,
full sun o r partial shade. Blooms in
spring; height under 2 feet. Ever­
green. Foliage may be green, blue, or
Blue oat grass ( Helictotrichon sempervirens)
gray. F amethystina 'Superba', with
blue-green weeping foliage and pink
flowers, is the best bloomer. Use as
ground cover or as a single accent.
Makes good edging for borders.
B l u e oat grass ( Helictotrichon
sempervirens) Zones -1-9 (-I- I I WJ),
full sun. Blooms i n late summer to
fall; height 2-4 feet. Evergreen.
Blue-gray foliage with poin ted tips.
Showy flowers; blooms best in cool
areas. In hot areas with wet, heavy
soil, root rot may occur. Makes a
good accent alone or in groups, in
borders and rock gardens.
Japanese blood grass ( imperata
cylindrica 'Red Baron' or ' Ru bra' )
Zones 5-1 1 , full sun but afternoon
shade in the hottest regions. Height
under 2 feet . Leaves are bright green
with blood red tips, these turn red­
dish brown in fall. Spreads slowly.
B l u e Iyme grass ( L eymus arenarius)
Zones 4-1 1 , 2-3 feet. Little to mod­
erate water; full sun to light shade.
Japanese blood grass (/mperata cylindrica
'Red Baron')
Attractive, vigorous (spreads by
underground runners), low clump
of gray-blue leaves topped with
tlower heads 3-4 feet tall. Looks
best in cool weather. Cut back just
as flowers begin to form to maintain
crisp blue color. Also sold as
Elymus glaucus.
M a i d e n grass ( Miscanthus sinensis)
Zones 4-1 1 , sun or shade. Blooms
late summer; heighr 2-4 feet.
Narrow, green foliage. Showy beige
flowers; good for cutting. Use as a
specimen or plant at back of a bor­
der. Recommended varieties include
'Cabaret ' , with cream and green
leaves, and 'Suicra', with green
leaves with horizontal yellow stripes.
Avoid invasive varieties.
Variegated moor grass ( Molina
caerulea 'Variegata') Zones 5-9, 1-2
feet. Regular to ample water; full to
partial shade. Green leaves broadly
edged with creamy white are topped
with wispy flower spikes in summer.
Beautiful fountain-like effect.
A SAMPLER
Giant feather grass ( Stipa gigantea)
Purple founta i n grass ( Pennisetum
setaceum 'Rubrum' ) Zones 8-1 1 , full
sun. Blooms summer to fall; height
2-4 feet. Evergreen or deciduous
according to climate. Noninvasive
type. Purple foliage topped by red­
purple plumes; good for cutting.
Cold-hardiness varies greatly.
Effective as accent or in groups in
perennial or shrub borders.
G i a nt feather grass ( Stipa gigantea)
Zones 6-8, full sun. Blooms in
summer; height 2-4 feet. Evergreen.
Gray-green foliage, golden flower
spikes dangle from stems; good for
cutting. Use as a specimen or in
groups, particularly in perennial
borders.
Mexican feather grass ( Stipa
tenuissima) Zones 7-1 1 , sUl ( or
panial shade. Blooms in summer;
height under 2 feet. Fine-textured
green foliage clumps. Tali , tan in
winter. Flowers fine textured, filmy,
green turning tan. Can become
ll1VaSlve.
OF ORNAMENTAL GRASSES 375
Wildflowers
N AT U Re ' S C AREFREE C O L O R
G rowing wildflowers i s purely a regional affair, wim
different parts of tbe country planting locally adapted
favorites. Specialty seed companies offer regional mixes
that work well in most areas. Local native plant societies
can provide additional information on growing wildflow·
ers in your area.

I n t h e West , miner's lettuce, m i l k maids, sugar·scoops,

baby blue eyes, California poppies, farewell·to·springs,
lupines, a myriad of penstemons, and shooting stars are
j ust a few of the many wildflowers that tbrive. AJtbougb
wildflowers are often naturalized in the garden, don't be
afraid to include sucb flowers as the delicate western
columbine (Aquilegia formosa ) in formal borders. And
feel free to intersperse native species with their modern
hybrid offspring ( such as Pacific Coast i rises, bybrids of
Iris douglasiana) and other garden flowers.

I n the South, reseeding annuals, including caliiopsis,

Drummond phlox, Indian paintbrush, Indian blanket,
and bluebonnets, can be grown in great sweeps in sunny
naturalized areas, sucb as fields, roadsides, billsides, and
informal lawns. The drier and leaner the soil, the better
these flowers seem to grow. Other wildflowers find a
good home in traditional perennial borders. Orange
coneflower, purple coneflower, and goldenrod are
rough, carefree, dependable performers that come back
year after year.
Many native flowers prefer the moist, rich soil and
dappled shade of a woodland garden. Tbey bloom bet·

Rather than lawn in a l o w desert front yard, orange California poppies

and red Shirley poppies race into bloom instead.

With their evocative names and b rilliant colors, wild·

flowers offer you a chance to bring Native American and
pioneer history and ecological conservation into the gar·
den. For example, you can sow wildflowers in a 4· to
8·foot border to create a cheery transitiqn between
lawn and woods, you can sprinkle wildflowers in gaps
between ground covers, or you can simply designate a
corner or circle of your property as a "wild" patch wbere LEFT: Iris douglasiana hybrids are a natural for Western gardens.
cbildren can explore and play. RIGHT: I n the South, pink columbines reseed and sprout where they will.

376 CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLANTS


Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia), a drought-tolerant prairie wi ldflower,
needs no supplemental water in most home landscapes.
ter beneath limbed-up trees or at the edge of a stand of
trees than the center of a thick, dark forest . Favorite
woodland wildflowers include blue phlox, Virgin i a blue­
bells, and wild columbine.
In the M i dwest and Northeast, doll's eyes, Quaker
ladies, rattlesnake master, sneeze\\,eed, and tickseed
thrive. Good candidates are coneflowers ( Ecbinacea pur­
purea) and t h readleaf coreopsis ( Coreopsis verlici!!olo)
Include natives and their modern hybrid offspring­
such as bee balm (Mollardo clidYl7lo) and its varieties
'Cambridge Scarlet', 'J acob Kline' , and ' Marshall 's
Delight ' , or spike gayfeather ( Liatris spicata) and its
varieties 'Alba', 'Floristan Violett ' , and ' Kobold'-
with exotic garden flowers.
G R OW I N G W I L D F LOW E R S
Weeds are the primary cause of fai lure for wildflower
gardens. So whether you're seeding a wildflower
border or painstakingly pLlI1ting an area with small
starts of perennial grasses and flowers, prepare the
planting bed as carefully as you would for any flower
border. With luck, you'l! get a good d isplay the first year.
Kepp an eye out for weed seedLings and remove them as
they starr to emerge.
After the plants have finished blooming, your natu­
ral meadow may take on ,\ ragged, or even weedy,
appearance. Let all the plants set seeds; allowing them
to d ry out on the plants. The seeds will spill onto the
ground and sprout new plants (and attract wild birds)
the following year. You can gather some seeds by hand,
too, and save them for later plantings or to fill out any
bare spots.
In early winter or very early spring, mow or cut
the dry stems down to 6 to 8 inches. At the same time,
pull out any weeds, such as oxalis or dandelion. This
once-a-year t rim will give perennial wildflowers room
and light to spread before the next crop of annuals has
emerged from their seeds. In regions that typically have
a lot of rain in wimer, irrigate a wildflower patch only
when rains are l ight.
LEFT: Blue flax (Unum perenne) in West Virginia is punctuated by
naturalized daisies and coral verbena.
MIDDLE: Butterfly weed (Asclepias) and purp le coneflower are both
widely adapted,
R I GHT: Showy beard tongue ( Pensfemon cobaea) is a favorite in
the South.
WILOFLOWERS 377
American Native Plants
S E L F -RELIANT T O UG H , LOW M A I N T E N A N C E
I n the Northeast, ferns and wildflowers carpet the forest floor under a
canopy of maple trees.
Every region of the United States has its own distinct
climate and recognizable palette of native plants that
create the area's unique natural landscape. Whether it's
cactus of the desert Southwest, the aromatic scrub of
California's chaparral, or the delicate woodland plants of
the Northwest, native plants are supremely adapted to
areas in which they grow naturally, which makes them
exceLlent landscape choices.
Native plants give your garden a sense of place, mak­
ing it part of the overall landscape of the region where
you live. They attract wildlife, drawing birds, butterflies,
lizards, and insects to your garden. And because they are
so naturally suited to the climate, they're generally self­
sufficient, needing little care after they'rt; established.
P LA N T I N G A N D C A R I N G FO R N AT I V E P LA N T S
If y o u take care in getting native plants established,
they'll thrive in your landscape. When setting out con-
378 CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLANTS
tainer plants, start with young ones that are not
rootbound-they may not be much to look at when first
planted, but they'll adapt more successfully than larger
plants. Water immediately after planting, being sure to
saturate the soil. Then water carefully and steadily
during dry weather in the first summer or rwo; don't
inundate your plants but don't let them dry out, either.
After you've taken care to establish your natives
through their first rwo years ( and assuming you have
planted them where natural conditions suit them) , they
should do weLl with little or no supplemental watering.
In general, natives don't require fertilizing (and some are
naturally weakened by it). A light m ulch is beneficial,
but to avoid rot, keep it away from plant crowns.
To whet your appetite for native plants, here are
three regional profiles that provide a quick glance of the
possibilities.
In the Northeast: natives of the woo d l a n d As winter
releases its grip, the snow cover melrs, the ground begins
to thaw, and spring ephemerals that have been dormant
since the previous summer stir into growth. Overhead,
the tree canopy is open to the sky, allowing the sun to
reach the ground. Tiny frogs, called spring peepers,
fill the night with sound. Small bulbs and tubers,
such as bloodroot (Sanguinaria) and dogtooth violets
( Erytbronium), as well as sweet violets, come into bloom.
Later come the taller bulbs and perennials: mayapples,
trilliums, white foamflower ( Tiarella), Solomon's seal,
meadow rue ( Tbalictrum), and red-and-yellow
columbines. And tender, green ferns are everywhere.
As the deciduous trees fill in their foliage, the middle
story of the woodland comes into bloom. White-flow­
ered dogwood and redbud join viburnums, native azal­
eas, spicebush (Lindera), mountain laurel ( Kalmia), and
c1ethra to fill the woods with color and fragrance. Spring
rains give way to dry summer, and in clearings and on
the woodland's edges, the stately bloom of native Canada
and Turk's cap lilies join with cardinal flower and scarlet
bee balm (Monarda). Asters, goldenrod, and sweet
autumn clematis, with its cloud of white flowers, follow
in fall.
But it is probably autumn's fireworks that most
distinguish the northeastern woodland. Every plant is a
player in the autumn pageant, but probably none more
than the deciduous trees and shrubs, flashing deep
orange and gold, scarlet ro burgundy, lemon yellow, and
lush purple ro deepest mahogany. The white trunks of
the birches, the colorful stems of shrubby willows and
dogwoods, and vermilion sumac berries sparkle in the
winter woodland.
Feathery plumes of prairie smoke (Geum tril/orum) produce a rose pink
mist above a sea of grasses in a midwestern garden.
In the M i dwest: jewe l s of the prairie Prairie flowers
that are tough enough ro compete successfully with
native grasses need no coddling in the garden. In early
spring, the single lavender blooms of pasque flower
(Pulsatilla paten s ), South Dakota's state flower, open
above their low, clumping leaves. Soon after, the deep
blue flower spikes of false indigo ( Baptisia minor) appear.
In midsummer, giant red-violet blossom spires rop
Kansas gayfeather (Liatris pycnostachya). Drooping yel­
low petals surround the prominent brown centers of
gray-headed coneflowers ( Ratibida pinnata). Butterflies
float and dart around vivid orange butterfly weed
(Asclepias tuberosa). Bright purple flower clusters appear
on fountainlike plants of purple prairie clover
(Petalostemon purpureum).
Many prairie gems bloom for months. Deep blue
blooms cover tiny prairie skullcap (Scutellaria resinosa)
throughout the summer. Sprawling Missouri primrose
( Oenothera macrocarpa and 0. missouriensis) blooms all
summer, roo, flaunting its many showy saucer-shaped
yellow blooms. A profusion of cup-shaped wine red
flowers of poppy mallow ( Callirhoe involucrata) stand
above their creeping leaves, blooming continuously for
several months from spring through fall.
In fall, lavender-blue blossoms cover 3-foot-tall
smooth asters (Aster laevis), one of the latest-blooming
prairie wildflowers. And as the flowers bow out, prairie
grasses dominate the landscape. Indian grass (So rgha strum
nlltans), topped with silky seedheads, turns orange or
yellow. The russet red of little bluestem (Schizachyrium
scopariu m ), \X!iJla Cather's beloved red grass, persists
throughout the winter. Fine-textured switch grass
( Panicum virga/ um) turns from burgundy or gold to beige,
adding its subtle beauty to the winter landscape.
In the West: stars of the chaparra l Chaparral plants
are brilliant in spring. Smothered with yellow flowers,
flannel bush ( Fremol7todendron )-native to the Sierra
Nevada foothiLls and the inland slopes of southern
California's mountains-is almost its own parade float.
And lavender Salvia clevelandii provides much of
chaparral's pungent fragrance.
The qualities that make these plants survivors in
the wild also make them some of the best choices for
western gardens. Several-such as Matilija poppy
( R o l12l1eya coulleri) and some ceanoth us-also do well
in the Northwest. Take your design cues from nature.
You'll need the conditions that embrace these plants in
the wild-gritty, sun-baked soil, well drained slopes,
and full sun. Give them room ro grow; many, such as
woolly blue curls ( Trich ostema lanattim), hate to be
crow ded. Use them rogether or mix with plants from
other Mediterranean climates. Plant in fall, letting
winter rains establish them.
Flannel bush (Fremontodendron) l ights up California's chaparral in
spring with golden flowers,
AMERICAN NATIVE PLANTS 379

Vegetables
N UT RI T I O U S A N D B E A U T I F U L
To make your vegetable patch a success, d o a little
planning before you plant.
If you're new to vegetable gardening, start small. An
area of just 1 00 to 1 3 0 square feet can provide a substan­
tial harvest. As you gain experience, you may want to
expand the plot.
List tile vegetables your family really enjoys, and
then consider how much room each kind requires. If
space is limited, raise plants tbat give a good yield for the
area they occupy. Beans, tomatoes, and summer squash,
for example, can overwhelm you with tI;eir bounty from
a postage-stam p-sized plot. At the other extreme are
melons, corn, and some other kinds of squash, which all
require a great deal of space relative to their yield.
380 CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLANTS
Shoulder-to-shoulder planting i n deeply dug, fertile soil del ivers an
abundant harvest. Vegetables combine with herbs and flowers, and low
plants (basil, sage) grow in front of tall ones (sunflowers, beans) i n rear.
V E G ETA B L E S EA S O N S
Vegetables are designated a s warm-season o r cool-season,
depending on the weather they need for best growth.
Warm-season vegetables, such as peppers and tomatoes,
are summer crops; they require both warm soil and high
temperatures to grow and produce fruit. They are killed
by frost. Plant them after the last frost in spring.
Cool-season vegetables grow steadily at average tem­
peratures 1 0° to 1 5°F below those needed by warm­
season types. They can be planted in very early spring
for early-summer harvest or in late summer for harvest in
fall and (in mild regions) winter. Many will endure short
spells of frost, but in hot weather they become bitter and
often bolt to seed rather man producing edible parts. In
areas with short growing seasons ( fewer than 1 00 days) and then rake the area
or cool, foggy summers, cool-season vegetables can be smooth. If your soil is poor
gro\vn in SUl11mer. or doesn't drain weU, you
may elect to grow vegeta­
W O R K I N G W I T H T H E G R OW I N G S EA S O N bles in raised beds filled
After you've chosen a site and decided which vegetables with a mixture of compost
it can accommodate, you'll need to consider your climate and good topsoil.
and the length of your growing season. To calculate the You can starr vegeta­
length of your growi.ng season, count the number of days bles either by planting
between the average last-frost date in spring and the first seeds outdoors in the
frost date in fall (your cooperative extension office or a garden or by setting out
nursery can give you these dates). transplants you have
Last-frost dates let you know when it's safe to set started yourself Or pur- Plant tomatoes deep enough to
out tender vegetable plants or sow seeds; first-frost chased from a nursery. bury the rootball and part of the
dates tell you when you'll probably have to provide Vegetables that require a stem.
protection for tender kinds late in the season. Aim to long growing season-pep-
select vegetables that can mature and bear a good crop pers and tomatoes, for example-need many weeks of
in the interval between these two dates. For example, warm temperatures before they produce fruit, and are
if the seed packet says a certain variety of winter squash best set out as transplants. Other vegetables, including
requires 1 2 0 days from seed to harvest but your growing broccoli, cabbage, and lettuce, can be seeded directly or
season lasts only 1 00 days, look instead for a variety transplanted. Some vegetables, especially beans, carrots,
adapted to shorr growing seasons or plan to use season­ corn, and peas, grow better when started from seed
extending techniques, such as cold frames or row sown directly in the garden. For more on starting and
covers. setting out transplants, see page 305.

C H OOS I N G A LOCAT I O N CA R I N G FOR YOU R V E G ETA B LE S

Vegetables grow best with a t least 6 hours o f full sun For the best possible harvest, keep your vegetables
each day. To avoid both shade and root competition, growing steadily through­
locate the vegetable patch away from trees and large out the season. Thin those
shrubs. It's also in1portant to choose a spot protected started from seed sown
from cold winds in the spring and hot, dry winds in directly in the ground so
summer. Steer clear of frost pockets-low-lying areas that each plant will have
that may experience frosts later in spring and earlier in enough space to develop
fall than other parts of the garden. Watering and other properly. Thin plants
routine tasks are easier on a level site; if only sloping when a few inches tall,
land is available, try to find a south- or southeast-facing spacing them as indicated
slope to take full advantage of the sun. in the descriptions begin­
ning on page 3 82 or on
P LA N T I N G V E G ETA B L E S the seed packet. Water
Before actually digging your plot, draw a rough plan on and fertilize regularly; any
paper. Be sure to place tall vegetables to the north, so disruption in soil moisture
they won't shade short ones. or a lack of nutrients will
Start with careful soil preparation; you'll be repaid reduce the harvest. Apply
wi.th faster growth and a substantially larger harvest. a thick mulch of organic Raking draws weed-free straw
Remove any weeds from the plot and spread the soil matter. mulch over root zone of squash.
with a 3- to 4-inch layer of compost or well-rotted
manure. If you're planting a wide bed, scatter a complete
fertilizer over the area, following package directions for
amounts. If you're planting in rows, apply fertilizer in • Plant vegetables in rich, loose soil.
furrows alongside the rows after planting. Work in • Keep soil moist so that plants never suffer from drought.
amendments and fertilizer by hand or with a rotary tiller, • Most vegetables adapt readily to containers.

V E G ETAB L E S 381
 A Sampler of Annual Vegetables
Beans, Snap
WA R M - S EA S O N V E G ETA B L E S
Beans , snap Snap beans have tender,
fleshy pods. Besides the familiar
green, pods ('an also be yellow or
purple. Choose self-supporting
(bush) or climbing (pole) varieties.
Plant seeds of bush types 2 inches
apart in rows spaced 2-3 feet apart;
thin seedlings to 4 inches apart. Space
pole types 4-6 inches apart and allow
3 feet between rows; support the
plants on a trellis or plant them
around a tepee. Thin seedlings to 6
inches apart. Begin h arvest 50-70
days after sowing seeds.
Corn Most kinds of corn do best in
hot-summer areas, but early-matur­
ing hybrid varieties will grow even in
regions with cool summers. Sow
seeds directly in the garden, spacing
them 4-6 inches apart in rows l V, to
3 feet apart. Thin seedlings to 1-2
feet apart. Harvest 60- 1 00 days after
sowing.
C u c u m bers In spring, sow groups of
4 seeds in hills 4-6 feet apart; thin
382 CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLANTS
M e l ons
seedlings to 2 or 3 per hill. Or sow
2 or 3 seeds in groups spaced 1 V,
feet apart at the base of a trellis, and
then thin seedlings to 1 per group.
Harvest begins 50- 1 00 days after
sowing; harvest frequently to keep
plants producing.
M e l o n s Cantaloupes are the easiest
melons to grow, because they ripen
the fastest. Planting through black
plastic speeds harvest. In spring, sow
4 or 5 seeds per hill; space hills 4-6
feet apart. Thin seedlings to 2 per hill.
Harvest 70- 1 15 days after sowing.
P e p p e rs Sweet peppers come in a
range of colors, shapes, and sizes­
from bell types to long, slender
frying peppers, in b ues from green
to bright yellow and purple. Hot
peppers likewise offer a range of
sizes, colors, and pungencies. Start
seeds of sweet or bot peppers in flats
indoors 6-8 weeks before planting
tinle or buy transplants. Set plants
out in spring, spacing them l V, to 2
feet apart in rows 2 V, feet apart.
Tomatoes
Harvest 60-95 days after setting out
plants.
S q uash Summer squash (zucchini,
crookneck, pattypan) are eaten when
the fruit is small and tender; harvest
5 0-60 days after sowing. Winter
squash form hard shells; they are har­
vested in fall (80-120 days after sow­
ing) and can be stored for winter use.
Sow seeds of both types in spring,
bush types 1 foot apart in rows 3-5
feet apart; thin seecllings to 2 feet
apart. Sow vining squash about 5 feet
apart, placing 4 or 5 seeds in each
hill; thin to 2 per hill.
Tomatoes Start seeds in flats indoors
six weeks before planting time; or
buy transplants without buds or
flowers. Cover the leafless stem with
soil. Stake large, sprawling varieties.
Water and weed regularly. Harvest
when tomatoes have reached desired
size and color, before first frost in
autumn. Set out in spring, spacing
plants 2-4 feet apart in rows 3-4
feet apart.
Cabbage
COOL- S EA S O N V E G ETA B L E S
Beets Besides basic red beets, look
for seeds of golden yellow and white
varieties. The tender young leaves
are edible. Sow in early spring for
an early summer crop, or in late
summer for a fall crop. Plant seeds
1 inch apart in rows spaced 1 Y, feet
apart or broadcast them in wide
beds; thin seedEngs to 2-3 inches
apart . Harvest 45-65 days after
sowmg.
Brocco l i and cabbage Start seeds
indoors six weeks before planting
time or buy transplanrs. In early
spring (in mid- t o late summer for a
fali crop), set out plants 1 5-24
inches apart in rows spaced 2-3 feet
apart. Cut the heads before the buds
begin to open. After the central head
is harvested, side shoots will pro­
duce additional smaller heads.
H arvest shoots or heads 50 to 1 00
days after transplanting.
Carrots Plant seeds in early spring
(or for a fall crop, in late summer ) .
Swiss chard
Sow 1 inch apart in rows 1-2 feet
apart, or broadcast seeds in wide
beds. Thin seedlings to 2--4 inches
apart. H,lrvest baby carrots 30--40
days after sowing, mature carrots
50-80 days after sowing.
Swiss chard One of the most orna­
mental vegetables with bright red,
white, and green leaves. Plant seed
in early spring ( in late summer for a
fall crop) in rows spaced 2 feet
apart. Thin seedlings to 1 foot apart.
Harvest leaves about 60 days after
sowing seeds, through summer and
into winrer in mild-wimer climates.
'Bright Lights' is particularly decOl·a­
tive variety with leaves ranging from
green to burgundy and stalks in
shades of orange, red, pink, purple,
green, and wbjte.
Lettuce Start seeds in flats indoors
about four weeks before planting
time, or buy transplants. Set out
transplants (or sow seed directly in
the garden) in early spring; make
successive plantings or sowings until
A SAMPLER
Peas
daytime temperatures reach
75°-80°F. Harvest leaf lettuce 40 to
55 days after sowing seed. Plant
again in late summer and early
autumn for fall crops.
Peas Some kinds of peas are for
shelling, some have edible pods, and
some can be harvested eitber way.
Bush and vining types are available.
In early spring (in early faU for a fall
crop), sow seeds 1 inch apart in rows
spaced 2-3 feet apart. Thin seedlings
to 2--4 inches apart. Set up stakes or
trellises for vining types at planting
time. Begin barvesting 55-70 days
after sowing.
S p i na c h Spinach bolts quickly into
flower if the weather gets too warm
or the days too long. For best
results, sow seeds in early spring (in
early fali for a fall crop ) . Space them
1 inch apart in rows 1 to 1 Y, feet
apart or broadcast them over wide
beds. Thin seedlings to 3--4 inches
apart. Harvest 40-50 days after
sowing.
OF A N N U A L V E G E TA B L E S 383
Kitchen Herbs
GOOD F L AVORS AND GOOD L O O K S
DRYI NG H ERBS
Harvest herbs for drying just as the first flower buds begin
to open. The oils in the leaves are most concentrated at
this time, and the herbs will maintain their flavor when
preserved. Cut sprigs or branches in the morning after the
dew has evaporated. Tie them together at the cut ends and
hang them upside down in a warm, dry, well-ventilated
place out of direct sunlight. When the leaves feel crisp,
strip them from the stems and store in airtight jars.
You can also dry herbs by removing the leaves from
the stems and spreading them on screens placed in a
warm, dry, airy place out of direct sunlight. Stir the
leaves in the trays every few days. When they feel crisp
and crumble easily, store them in airtight jars.
For herbs grown for their seeds, harvest seed heads
or pods when they tum brown . Dry them in paper bags
until you can shake the seeds loose, and then store seeds
in airtight jars.

Basil pot includes pesto favorites 'Sweet' a n d 'Profuma di Genova' i n

b a c k , pungent ' R e d Rubin', a n d compact 'Windowbox'.

For thousands of years gardeners have known the culi­

nary and medicinal value of herbs. Today, herbs are
equally val uable as adornments-planted in a kitchen
window box, mixed with other plants in a scented
garden, or used as hedges along a garden path. Most
herbs are easy to grow, and many develop a more
intense flavor and fragrance when given little water.

P L A N T I NG H E R B S
Perennial herbs are easier t o start from purchased
transplants than from seed. N u rseries offer many sorts
in spring, typically i n 2- or 4 - inch pots. Rosemary and
sage are also sold in gallon containers. Annual and
biennial herbs, such as basil, cilantro, dill, and parsley,
can be started from seed. All perennial herbs can be
grown as annuals in areas where they aren't cold-hardy.
Water herbs after planting to get ; hem established.
After they're growing steadily, though, most will need
only occasional irrigation; exceptions are basil, chives, Bright yellow-green leaves of common sage 'Icterina' are flanked by
and parsley, all of which prefer evenly moist soil. lavender-flowered thyme (foreground), marjoram, and rosemary.

384 CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLANTS

 A Sampler of Herbs
BASIL DILL
B a s i l This fragrant annual needs
warm weather to grow well. Plants
typically reach 1 Y, to 2 feet tall.
Besides varieties with large green
leaves, you'll find p urple basils and
dwarf or small-leaved sorts.
Ch ives A hardy perennial in all
zones, chives make a pretty addition
to an ornamental garden. Each plant
forms a clump of narrow onion­
flavored leaves up to 2 feet high.
Rosy purple flowers are also edible.
D i l l The fresh or dried leaves and the
seeds of this versatile annual herb
are a popular seasoning for many
foods-including, of course, dill
pickles. The plants grow 3-4 feet
high, sporting soft, feathery leaves
and flat clusters of small, yellow
flowers.
M i nt These perennials (hardiness
varies by type) spread rapidly by
underground stems. Spearmint is the
preferred kind for cooking; it has
shiny, bright green leaves and
M I NT
reaches 1-2 feet tall. Peppermint,
great for flavoring tea, grows to 2
feet or taller. Unlike most other
herbs, mint thrives not only in sun
but also in partial to full shade.
Orega n o A perennial herb that grows
well in all zones, oregano is popular
in Italian, Greek, and Spanish cook­
ing. Use its leaves fresh or dried.
Many kinds are available; of these,
Greek oregano is considered one of
the most flavorful. Plants reach 2
feet tall and spread at a moderate
rate by underground stems.
Parsley A biennial that's usually
grown as an annual, curly-leaf pars­
ley is an attractive edging for herb,
vegetable, or flower gardens. In
cooking, it's prized for garnishes.
Flat-leaf parsley (also called Italian
parsley) has a stronger flavor and is
favored for seasoning many dishes.
Both sortS grow 6-12 inches tall.
Rosemary A shrubby perennial with
aromatic needlelike foliage, rosemary
OREGANO PARSLEY
is available in numerous varieties, in
heights ranging from I V, to 6 feet.
Most are hardy in zones 8-1 1 , but
'Arp' has survived temperatures as
low as - 1 0° F. Rosemary is widely
used as a ground cover or low hedge
and needs little water. Set plants 2-3
feet apart.
Sage A perennial adapted to zones
5-1 1 , but not picky about where it
grows. Strong-flavored sage comes
not only in the traditional soft gray­
green variety, but also in decorative
forms with yeIJow-and-green, purple,
or tricolored (gray, white, and pur­
plish pink) foliage. Plants form
dense bushes to 3 feet tall.
Sweet marjoram Sweet marjoram is
a perennial in zones 9-1 1 ; elsewhere,
it is treated as an annual or grown in
containers and moved indoors for
winter. Plants reach 1-2 feet tall; the
tiny gray-green leaves have a sweet
floral scent and a milder flavor than
oregano (to which sweet marjoram is
closely related).
A SAMPLER OF HERBS 385
IN TH I S CHAPTER
Watering and Composting
\X/IIEN , HOW, A N D HOW M U C H
ing soil texture, the plants themselves, their ages, and the
weather.
Your soil's ability to absorb and retain water is close­
ly related to its composition. Clay soils absorb water
slowly and also drain slowly, retaining water longer than
other soils. Sandy soils, in contrast, absorb water quickly
and drain just as quickly. Loam soils absorb water fairly
rapidly and drain well, but not too fast. You can work in
organic amendments to help clay soils absorb water
faster and drain better and to make sandy soils more
moisture retentive. For more on soil texture and organic
amendments, see pages 3 00 and 3 0 l .
After their roots are established, different sorts of
plants have widely differing water needs. Plants native to
sem iarid and arid climates, called xerophytes, have
evolved features that allow them to survive with little
water and low relative h u midity. They may have deep
root systems, for example, or leaves that are small, hairy,
or waxy.
The majority of familiar garden plants, however, are
Watering with a watering can o r hand-held nozzle i s j ust right for seed adapted to moist soil and high relative h u midity. Called
beds and seedlings but is usually inadequate for mature plants. They mesophytes, they usually have broad, thin leaves. Keep
need enough water to really soak in and do the plants good. in mind that all young plants, including xerophytes,
require more frequent watering than mature plants until
How m uch water do plants need? How often should you their root systems become well estabLished. And many
water, and what's the best way to do it) How can you annuals and vegetables require regular moisture through­
conserve water? This section addresses these and other out the growing season if they are to bloom well or pro­
important-and often perplexing-questions. duce a good crop.
Weather affects water needs, as well. When it's hot,
WATE R I N G G U I D E L I N E S dry, and windy, plants use water very rapidly, and
Plants, like animals, need water to live. A seed must young or shallow-rooted ones sometimes can't absorb
absorb water before it can germinate. Roots water fast enough to keep foliage from wilting. Such
can take up nutrients only when plants need frequent watering to keep mois­
water is present in the soil; ture around their roots at all times.
water transports n utrients During cool, damp weather, on
throughout plants. And the other hand, plants require
water is essential to m uch less water. Water needs
photosynthesis. are lower during winter,
But how much water too, when the days are
your plants need and short and the sun is low
how frequently they need on the horizon.
it depend on a number of Because soil tex­
interrelated factors, includ- ture, plant type and

388
 A soil sampling tube allows you to see and
feel soil moisture several inches into
the soil without making a large hole.
age, and weather are all
variable, following a fixed
watering schedule year­
round (or even all summer)
isn't the most efficient way to
meet your plants' needs. Always
test your soil for moisture and look
at the plants before you water. To
check the soil around new trans­
plants and in vegetable and Flower
beds, dig down a few inches with
your fingers or a trowel; if the top 1
to 2 inches are dry. you probably need
to water. In a lawn or around estab­
Lished trees and shrubs, a soil-sampling
tube ( left) is useful. It allows you to test
moisture at deeper levels without dig­
ging a hole that could disturb roots.
Leaves can also can tell you when it's
time to water: Most will look dull or roll
in at the edges just before they wilt.
\':(Ihen you do water, aim to soak the
plants' root zones. As a general guideline,
the roots of lawn grasses grow about I foot
deep; roots of small shrubs and other plants
reach 1 to 2 feet deep. While the taproots of
some trees and shrubs may grow more
deeply into the soil, most roots concentrate in
the top 2 to 3 feet. Watering below the root
zone only wastes water.
To check how far water penetrates in your
soil, water for a set amount of time (say, 3 0
minutes ) . Wait for 24 hours, a n d then use a soil·
sampling tube or dig a hole to check for moisture.
You ' ll soon learn to judge how long to water each plant
to soak its root zone thoroughly.
WAT E R I N G M ET H O DS
Methods for applying water to your landscape range from
simple hand-held sprayers and hose-end sprinklers to more
complex drip systems and underground rigid-pipe systems.
The method{s) appropriate for you depend on how often
you need to water a landsc:i'p e of the size of yours and how
much equipment you want to buy.
S p ri n k l i ng
Watering with a hand-held nozzle or fan may be enjoy­
able for you, but it takes too long to truly soak the soil.
H O S ES
A hose can make the task of watering your garden easy or diffi­
cult. If you buy an inexpensive hose that's prone to kinking,
you'll spend more time cursing than watering. But if you pur­
chase a durable, kink-free type, it will last much longer and
work more efficiently.
U n reinforced vinyl hoses a re i nexpensive and lightweight,
but they're also the least d u rable and most prone to kinking.
Reinforced vinyl hoses are less l i kely to kink and are l ight­
weight, which is important if you have to move the hose
around a lot. Rubber
hoses, which have
dull surfaces, are
the heaviest and
toughest types. They
kink in hot weather
but work well in cold
weather. Reinforced
rubber-vinyl hoses
are flexible, kink
resistant, moderately
heavy, and durable.
Hoses are sold by length and have various i nside diame­
ters (%-inch, Yo-inCh, and I-inch hoses are common).
Although the difference i n hose dia meter may seem slight,
the water volume each carries varies greatly. If you have low
water pressure or if you must run your hose uphill, you'll
need all the pressure and flow you can get. Buy the largest
dia meter, shortest hose that's practical for your situation.
Hand-watering is, however, useful for new transplants,
seedlings, and container plants, because you can apply
the water gently and exactly where it's needed.
Hose-end sprinklers, which essentially produce
artificial rainfall, offer the simplest way to apply water
over a large surface. Many plants, particularly those
that like a cool, humid atmosphere, thrive with this
sort of overhead sprinkling. This method also rinses
dust from foliage and discourages certain pests, espe­
cially spider mites. But sprinkling has some negative
aspects, as well. First, it's wasteful. Wind can carry off
some water before it even reaches the ground, and
water that falls or runs off onto pavement is lost, too.
In humid climates, sprinkling encourages some foliage
diseases, such as black spot and rust, although you can
minimize this risk by sprinkling early in the morning,
W AT E R I N G A N D CDMPOSTING 389

A portable sprinkler with an adjustable watering pattern lets you
select the size of the area covered and, to some degree, the shape.
Some incl ude built-in timers.
information on installing a rigid pipe irrigation system,
see pages 2 1 2 through 2 1 7 .
To use water effectively, you need t o know how
fast water penetrates your soil and the delivery rate of
your sprinklers. As the illustration below left shows, 1
inch of water (from sprinkling or rainfall) moistens
about 12 inches in sandy soil, 7 inches in loam, and 4
to 5 inches in clay. Thus, if you want to water to a
depth of 1 2 inches, you'll need to apply about 1 inch
of water to sandy soil, 2 Y2 to 3 inches to clay soil.
To determine delivery rate, place a number of
equal-size containers ( straight-sided coffee cups, for
example) at regular intervals outward from the sprin­
kler, as shown below. Then turn on the water and note
how long it takes to fill a container with an inch of
water. This test will also show you the delivery pattern,
because the containers will typically fill at different
rates. To ensure that every area ultimately receives the
same amount of water, you'll need to move the sprin­
klers so that the coverage overlaps.

so that leaves dry quickly as the day warms. Another Soa ker hoses
potential drawback is that plants with weak stems These hoses, the forerunners of drip-irrigation systems,
and/or heavy flowers bend and can break u nder a are still quite useful for slow, steady water delivery to
heavy load of water. plants in rows. They're long tubes made of perforated
Traditionally used for watering lawns, under­ or porous plastic or rubber, with hose fittings at one or
ground pipe systems with risers for sprinkler heads both ends. When you attach a soaker to a regular hose
remain the best system for watering medium-sized to and t u rn on the water supply, water seeps or sprinkles
large lawns and low-growing ground covers. For more from the soaker along its entire length. You also can
water wide beds by snaking soakers back and forth
around the plants; trees and shrubs can be watered
How soil texture affects with a soaker coiled in a circle around the plant. You ' ll
watering: Applied to sandy probably need to leave soakers on longer than you
soil (left), 1 inch of water would sprinklers; check water penetration with a trow­
penetrates about 12 inches el or soil-sampling tube.
deep. In loam soil (center),
the same amount of water
reaches a depth of 7 inches.
One inch of water penetrates
only 4 inches in clay soil.
/'
Check a sprinkler's delivery rate and pattern by
/ placing equal-size containers at
/'
,
regular distances from
\ the sprinkler.
"
./
\ \ /
\
\
\
"-
/

390 PLANT MAINTENANCE AND CARE


Soaker hoses are either perforated plastic, or porous rubber, like this
one. Attach it to a hose, and water seeps out along its entire length.
Fl ood wate r i n g
Flooding (soaking) is an effective way t o supply enough
water to the extensive, deep root systems of large shrubs
and trees. Make a level basin for the plant by forming a
ridge of soil several inches high around its drip line.
You'll usually need to fill the basin more than once to
ensure that water penetrates throughout the entire root
zone. If the soil in the basin hasn't absorbed all the water
within a few hours, make a channel in the ridge around
it to let the excess drain away.
If you grow vegetables or flowers in rows, you can
build adjoining basins for large plants, like squash, or
make furrows between rows (see illustration at above
righ t ) . To minimize damage to roots, construct the fur­
rows when the plants are young, before their root sys­
tems have spread. Broad, shallow furrows are generally
better than deep, narrow ones: The wider the furrow, the
wider the root area you can soak, because water moves
primarily downward rather than side to side. And a shal­
low furrow is safer for plants-nearby roots are less like­
ly to be disturbed when you scoop out the furrow, and
they're likewise less apt to be exposed if a strong flow of
water goes through it.
Like drip, furrows work well for plants prone to leaf diseases. Use a
bubbler attachment on a hose to break the water's flow.
D r i p wate r i n g
For the greatest water savings, use drip irrigation for
trees, shrubs, perennials, and vegetables. The opposite of
flood watering, drip watering means applying water
slowly, drip by drip. Drip sprinklers, called emitters,
operate at low pressure, and they deliver a low volume of
water compared to standard sprinklers. Because the
water is applied slowly on or near the ground, there is no
waste from runoff and little or no loss to evaporation.
You position the emitters to deliver water just where the
plants need it, and you control penetration by varying
the time the system runs andlor varying the emitters'
delivery capacity, rated in gallons per hour-gph. You
can also regulate the volume of water delivered to each
plant by varying the type and number of emitters you set
up for each.
Besides water conservation, the chief advantage of drip
systems is flexibility. You can tailor them to water individ­
ual plants by providing each with its own emitter(s), or you
can distribute water over larger areas with microsprays. A
standard layout may include hookups to two or more
valves. Because the lines are on the ground (they're easily
concealed with mulch) and are made of limber plastic,
changing the system is simple: ] ust add or subtract lines
and emitters, as needed.
Your drip system can be attached to a hose end or
screwed into a hose bibb. Or, if you prefer, you can con­
nect it permanently to your main water source. For more
information on how to install a drip-irrigation system,
see page 2 1 8 .
M U LC H SAV ES WAT E R , R E D U C E S W E E D S
Like any other seeds, most weed seeds require sunlight,
warmth, and moisture to germinate and grow. Mulches
block light from the soil below, thus preventing the
W AT E R I N G ANO COMPOSTING 391
seedlings from becoming established. They also help keep
soil moist and modLuate its temperatme. You can choose
from organic or inorganic m ulches.
Organic mulches gradualJy decompose, adding humus
to the soil and giving it a loose, crumbly texture (thus mak-
C O N S E R V I N G WAT E R
ing it easier to pull any weeds that do appear). Before lay­
ing down any organic mulch, clear existing weeds from the
soil, because those that are already established can grow
right through the mulch. Use a 2- to 4-inch-thick layer on
paths and around plants, but take care not to cover the
plants' crowns. Too much moisture near the crown will rot
many plants.
Llorganic mulches include gravel and stones, black
plastic, and landscape fabrics.

Water i s a limited resource everywhere. Alhough the eastern G ra ve l , river roc k , and other kinds of stones make per­
half of the U n ited States typically receives enough (or some­ manent mulches that can suppress weeds effectively-as
ti mes too much) precipitation, droughts do occur, and parts of long as you install them over weed-free soil to begin with.
this area sometimes go for several years without enough water Many gardeners place landscape fabric under gravel.
to meet the needs of the local population. Most low-elevation
areas of the western United States have low rainfal l rates and
a long dry season-and although the overall western water
supply remains virtually fixed, ever more people are putting
demands on it. Thus, conserving water is (or should be) a con­
cern everywhere. Here are a few tips for waterwise gardening.
USE WATER-CONSERVING PLANTS Some plants need a lot of
water to survive; others perform better with less. You can find
water-thrifty trees, shrubs, flowering plants, ground covers,
and even some grasses for your garden. Some provide seasonal
color, others year-round green The key is to choose plants that
are well adapted to the natural conditions of your region.
GROUP PLANTS WISELY Place thirsty ones together and
drought-resistant plants elsewhere. Put plants that need regu­
lar watering on a separate irrigation system and schedule.
LIMIT TURF AREAS A lawn requires more irrigation than a l most
any other landscape feature. L i m it its size to j ust what you
need for your purposes and choose a grass or grass mix LEFT: Use a drip emitter to deliver water at a precise rate and place.
ada pted to your c l imate (see pages 339). Consider replacing RIGHT: Weed-tree straw makes an excellent and attractive mulch.
at least part of your lawn with ha rdscape materia ls or a lter­
native plants.
IRRIGATE EFFICIENTLY Make sure your watering practices and
devices use water as efficiently as possible. WATE R I NG TR E ES
IMPROVE THE SOIL Routinely cultivate your soil and incorpo­
rate organic matter. You'll improve the soil's ability to resist Water trees and shrubs by
evaporation and retain moisture. soaking soil up to and just
MULCH Place a layer of organic or mineral material over soil beyond the drip line, the area
and around plants. Mulch greatly reduces moisture loss below outermost branch tips.
(because it reduces evaporation), reduces weeds, and slows Feeder roots are normally
erosion. concentrated here because
MAINTAIN YOUR GARDEN Tighten faucets so they don't drip. rain usually collects here. As
Water plants only when needed, not by the clock or calendar. plants grow and roots extend
Avoid runoff, which wastes water. beyond the canopy, irrigation
CONTROL WEEDS These garden intruders consume water need­ must too.
ed by more desirable plants.

392 PLANT MAINTENANCE AND CARE

 B la c k plastic, avail­
able in rolls, is espe­
cially helpful in a
vegetable garden.
Besides effectively
preventing weed
growth, it warms the
soil early in the sea­
son, speeding the
growth of heat­
loving plants like
melons. Place the
plastic over the soil,
then cut slits in it
where you want to
Mulch of black plastic conserves moisture plant seeds or trans-
and prevents weed growth. plants. Remove the
plastic at the end of LEFT: Spread landscape fabric or mufch over the planting area and
the growing season, because by this time it will usually secure corners and sides with heavy wire staples or soil.
have degraded too much to use again. RIG HT: Use a knife to cut openings; tuck flaps back around plant base.

Landscape fabrics, sold in nurseries and garden sup­ your parr. This type of composting is called slow or cold
ply centers, are made of woven polypropylene, spun­ composting. With a little effort, however, you can speed
bonded polyethylene, or a combination of other syn­ up the process. If you create optimum conditions for the
thetic materials. Unlike plastic sheeting, they are organisms responsible for decay (by giving them the mix­
porous and allow air and water to reach the soil. ture of air, water. and the carbon- and nitrogen-rich
Density and porosity vary; denser fabrics are better for nutrients they need), the compost piJe will heat up
suppressing weeds. quickly and decompose in a few months. Such hot com­
Landscape fabrics are available in various widths posting also destroys many (though not ali ) weeds and
and lengths. They're best used in permanent plantings disease pathogens.
around trees and shrubs. Install them around existing You can make compost in a freestanding pile, such
plants or cut slits in them to accommodate new ones. as shown in the photo at top of page 3 94 , or use some
Before you instaLl the fabric, eliminate weeds.
U n roll the fabric and estimate where to cut it. Overlap
seams by at least 3 inches to avoid gaps through which H OW M U C H M U LC H ?
weeds can grow. Anchor the outer edges of the fabric
with plastic pegs, nails, or heavy wire staples. Bulk quantities of organic mulch are sold by the cubic yard.
After instaLlation, cover the fabric with 2 to 3 inches Determine how many square feet you want to cover (multiply
of organic mulch, such as bark chips, or with a thinner the area's length by its width). then consult the chart to
layer of pea gravel. The mulch protects the fabric from determine the approximate a mount of m ulch you need.
ultraviolet degradation and improves its appearance.
TO COVER
CO M PO ST I N G THIS AREA 2 I N. DEEP 3 IN. DEEP 4 1N. DEEP
This natural process converts raw organic materials into
a valuable soil conditioner. Use it to imp rove a soil's tex­ 100 square It. YJ cubic yard 1 cubic yard 11\ cubic yards
ture, boost its nutrient content, and make it more water
250 1YJ 211 31\
retentive. Besides benefiting the garden, composting
lightens the load at the landfill: You recycle garden 500 3 1\ 61\
debris at home rather than consigning it to the dump. 6YJ 10 131\
1,000
A pile of leaves, branches, and other garden trim­
mings will eventually decompose with no intervention on

WATE R I N G ANO COMPOSTING 393

sort of enclosure {see below } . Regardless of which
method you choose, though, the fundamentals of com­
posting are the same.

Gather mate r i a l s You'U need approximately equal

amounts by volume of brown matter and green matter.
Brown matter is high ill carbon and includes dry leaves,
hay, sawdust, straw, wood chips, and woody prunings.
Green matter is high in nitrogen; it includes grass clip­
pings, fruit and vegetable scraps, coffee grounds, tea
bags, crushed eggshells, and manure from cows, horses,
goats, poultry, and rabbits. The compost will heat up
faster if you coLlect all the ingredients in advance and
assemble the pile all at once. Don't use bones, cat or dog
waste, dairy products, meat scraps, badly diseased or
insect-infested plants, or pernicious weeds {such as
bindweed, quackgrass, and oxalis} that might survive
composting.

Chop materials Shredding or chopping large, rough
materials into smaller pieces {ideally no larger than 1 to 2
inches} allows decay-producing organisms to reach more
surfaces and thus speeds up the entire composting
process. Shredder-chippers and lawn mowers are good
tools to use for this purpose. You can also chop the
materials with a machete on a large wooden block.
Shredding dry leaves is a good idea, too; collect leaves in
an open area and just run a lawn mower over them.
B u i l d the p i l e Building the pile like a layer cake makes
it easier to judge the ratio of brown to green materials.
Start by spreading a 4- to 8-inch layer of brown material
over an area at least 3 feet square; then add a layer of
green material about 2 to 8 inches deep. Layers of grass
Composting proceeds somewhat faster and neater in a contained bin, but
otherwise it's the same as i n a freestanding compost pile like this one.
clippings should be only 2 i.n ches deep; less-dense green
materials can be layered more thickly. Add another layer
of brown material and sprinkle the pile with water. Mix
these first three layers with a spading fork.
Continue adding layers, watering, and mixing. To
heat up efficiently, the pile should be about 3 feet tall,
giving it a volume of 1 cubic yard.
Turn the p i le In j ust a few days, the pile should have
heated up dramatically. In time, it will decompose on its
own, but you can hurry things along by turning the con­
tents to introduce more oxygen-which is needed by the

compost bins with tops that close and keep pests out are suitable for
kitchen scraps. Add only yard waste to open bins.

STATIC BIN TUMBLER WIRE CYLINDER

394 PLANT MAINTENANCE AND CARE

organisms responsible for decomposition. \'(lith a spad­
ing fork or pitchfork, restack the pile, redistributing it so
that the materials originally on the outside are moved to
the pile's center, where they'll be exposed to higher heat.
If necessary, add water; the pile should be as moist as a
wrung-out sponge. Turn the pile weekly, if possible, until
it is no longer generating internal heat and most of the
materials have decomposed.
Use the c o m post Finished compost is dark and crum­
bly, with a pleasant, earthy aroma. Mix it into your plant­
ing beds or use it as a mulch. If some of the material
from the compost pile's exterior is stiLi coarser than you
p refer for either a soil amendment or mulch, simply
incorporate it into your next compost pile. To obtain a
finer-textured compost to use as poning soil for contain­
ers or for starting seeds, sift the finished compost
through a screen with Y,-inch mesh.
M a n ufactured com posters These include various sorts
of tumblers, which make it easier to turn materials and
produce finished compost quickly. Most are turned with
a crank, but some roll on the ground or are turned with
foot treads. Such devices provide a tidy way to make
compost, especiaLly in small gardens._
Another manufactured composter is the static com­
post bin, in which the contents sit without turning
( though occasional aerating with a spading fork is help­
ful ) . You add new materials at the top; the finished com­
post is removed through a door at the base. Though tidy,
these units produce only fairly small amounts of com­
post-and they do so rather slowly.
C O M POSTI N G WITH WO R M S

CO M PO ST I N G SYST E M S
You can make compost i n a freestanding pile o r i n a
homemade structure, or use a purchased manufactured
com poster.

Freesta n d i n g com post p i l e s These piles should be at

least 3 feet high and wide; at this size, their mass is great
enough to generate the microbial activity needed for
heating the materials. The upper size limit is about 5 feet
high and wide; a pile larger than that may not receive
enough air at its center. When you decide where to make
the pile, allow space alongside for turning.

W i re c y l i nders or hoops For these, use welded wire,

chicken wire, or snow fencing, supporting it with stakes
if necessary. The cylinder or hoop should be about 4 feet
in diameter and 3 to 4 feet tall. To turn the pile, lift the
cylinder and move it to one side, and then fork the mate­
rials back into it.
T h ree-bi n systems Bin systems are more complex than
freestanding piles or those corralled with wire, but they
also offer a more flexible way to make compost. One bin
holds new green and brown material; the center one con­
tains partly decomposed material; while a third bin holds
finished or nearly finished compost. Turn the material in
each bin weekly, moving decomposed material to the
right. (The bin for nearly finished compost will be empty
for a few weeks at the start.)
For a picture of a three-bin compost system and con­
struction details, see page 268.
Worm composting, o r vermicomposting, is a n efficient way to
compost fruit and vegetable scraps from the kitchen in a
small aillo unt of space. Many nurseries sell red wiggler
worms and bins for housing them; you can also use a cov­
ered homemade wooden bin (about 2 feet square and 8 to 1 6
inches deep). F i l l the b i n with bedd ing made from shredded
newspaper, then place it i n a shaded, rain-protected location
where it won't freeze or overheat from sun exposure. Feed the
worms kitchen scraps; 2 pounds of worms will process about
7 pounds of fruit and vegetable scraps each week. After
three to six months, you can begin harvesting the compost,
which looks l ike dark, rich soil.

WAT E R I N G AND CDMPDSTING 395

A Guide to Fertilizers
\\ H f N , H O \X', A N D H O \X' M U C H
shelves are piled with boxes and bottles, the floors
covered with bags stacked high. Labels identify the
package contents as rose food or vegetable food, lawn
fertilizer or general-purpose fertilizer. You may also
find bins filled with bonemeal, blood m eal, or hoof­
and-horn meal-all labeled " n at ural fertilizer. "
Choosing the right products to keep your plants healthy
may be more than a bit confusing.

Use a siphon attachment t o pull concentrated liquid fertilizer
from a bucket or container, dilute it into the water stream,
and apply through the hose.
In order to thrive, plants need light, air,
water, and a place for their roots to grow.
They also need a continuous supply of nutri­
ents, most of which come from the soil. When
the natural supply of nutrients isn't adequate,
gardeners add fertilizer to make up the __!@!!i:
difference.
The nutrients plants need for
good health are typically divided into
th ree groups: macronutrients,
secondary nutrients, and micro­
nutrients.
Fertilizer sections at garden
centers may befuddle you. The
C H EC K I N G O U T N U T R I E N T S
Nitrogen (N), phosphorus ( P ) , and potassium ( K ) are
the primary plant nutrients. They are always listed on the
labels of packaged fertilizers, usually in prominent type.
The three numbers are also called the guaranteed analy­
sis and the N - P - K ratio. For example, a fertilizer that's
labeled 1 0-8-6 contains 1 0 percent nitrogen, 8 percent
phosphorus, and 6 percent potassium. Any fertilizer that
contains all three primary nutrients, such as 1 0-8-6, is
called a complete fertilizer.
Of the three primary n u t rients, nitrogen is general­
l y in shortest supply, so it needs the most frequent
replenishing. Fertilizers supply nitrogen in water-solu­
ble ( fast- release) or insoluble (slow-release) forms.
Soluble nitrogen becomes available to plants quickly.
Insoluble nitrogen must be broken down b y soil
microorganisms before plants can use it. Most fertiliz­
ers contain both forms of nitrogen, although labels
don't always specify the percentages.
Plants also need smaller amounts of sec­
ondary nutrients-calcium, magnesiu m , and
sulfur-and trace amounts of micronutrients,
including iron, manganese, and zinc. These
secondary and micronutrients are already
present in most garden soils, so they're not
always included in general-purpose
fertilizers but are often sold as separate
supplements.
Wel l-stocked garden centers offer all of
the basic kinds of fertilizer: controlled
release (foreground), soluble crystals (left
center), and liquid (right center), as well
as organic (rear).

396 PLANT MAINTENANCE ANO CARE

N AT U R A L O R C H E M I C A L ?
You can buy fertilizers in either natural or chemical
form. Plants can't distinguish nitrogen that came out of
cow from nitrogen that came out of a factory. People, on
the other hand, have their preferences. and for good rea­
sons. For example, many natural fertilizers take good
advantage of materials that would otherwise be waste
products and disposal problems. Another good reason to
choose one over the other is cost. On a pound-far-pound
basis, manufactured fertilizers are usually much less
expensive than natural ones. Applied properly, both
kinds have their uses.
Natural fertilizers are derived mostly from animal
waste and dead organisms. These include all kinds of
animal manures, fish emulsion, and meals made from
blood, bone, alfalfa, cottonseed, kelp, and soybeans.
Most natural fertilizers contain lower levels of nutri­
ents than chemical products do. Because they tend to
release nutrients over a longer period of time, they're less
likely to burn plants (although some fresh manures can
do so). However, because they depend on soil organisms
to make the nutrients available, they don't contribute
much to plant needs when the soil is cold and the key
organisms are less active. Natural fertilizers also improve
the texture of the soil and increase the amount of benefi­
cial microorganisms. For best results, apply natural fertil­
izers in late fall or early spring.
Chemical fertilizers are mass-produced by industrial
means. They usually have higher levels of nutrients and a
larger percentage of soluble nitrogen than do natural fertil­
izers. The fast release of soluble nitrogen is often a plus in
chilly weather, when cool-season crops and spring-flower­
ing shrubs and trees can use a boost. To avoid burning
plants, apply chemical fertLlizers to soil that's moist, and
then water thoroughly after application.
fertilizer granules and
a cultivator to work them into soil.
F E RT I L I Z E R S CAN POLLUTE, TOO
W h i l e m a n y gardeners are aware that improper u s e of
pesticides can harm the environment, they may not realize
that fertilizers pose some of the same ris�s. Plants can
absorb only a certain amount of nitrogen at one time; when
you fertilize with synthetic nitrogen fertilizers, excess nitrates
remain in the ground
to be washed away
by rain or watering.
They drain into
rivers, lakes, and
bays, either directly
(through runoff) or
indirectly (by pene­
trating the ground­
water-deep
beneath the soil)
Excess fertilizer washes off lawns into They increase algal
storm drains ultimately collecting in growth in the water,
nearby waterways. disrupting the
ecosystem.
To make sure you don't unintentionally contaminate water
sources, determine how much nitrogen is actually needed to
keep plants and lawns healthy. Start out by using a low-nitro­
gen fertilizer, and then gradually increase the percentage of
nitrogen until you see satisfactory growth. You might consider
switching to natural fertilizers. With few exceptions, natural
fertilizers typically have low percentages of nitrogen, and their
nitrogen is released slowly, more closely matching the plants'
needs and leaving l ittle excess to be washed away.
L I Q U I D OR S O L I D ?
You can buy natural and chemical fertilizers i n liquid
or solid form .
Liquid fertilizers, including fish emulsion and water­
soluble crystals, get nutrients to the roots immediately.
But because the nutrients usually last only a couple of
weeks in soil, liquid fertilizers need to be appLied more
often. Liquids are useful for feeding plants
1I1 containers and hanging baskets.
Solid fertilizers are usually sold as gran­
ules or pellets. They can be broadcast or spread over
lawns and ground covers or dug or forked into soil
around the root zones of trees, shrubs, and perennials.
Other solids include controlled-release fertilizers.
These are sold as spikes or beadlike granules that
A GUIOE TO FERTILIZERS 397
release nuu'ients over a period o f time, assuming cer­
tain temperature and moisture conditions. Because
they release nitrogen slowly and steadily, most of it is
Llsed by the plant, and very little is washed away by
rain or irrigation.
W H E N TO F E R T I L I Z E
To get your plants off to a good start, fertilize when the
growth cycle of plants begins. Many gardeners use a
general-purpose fertilizer at this time (an evenly balanced
formulation or one slightly higher in nitrogen); others

F E RTI L I Z E R S E L E CTI O N G U I D E

The chart below describes several common natural and chemical
fert i l izers. The N-P-K ratios l i sted are typical, but they vary widely
among manufacturers. In general, fertilizers form ulated for lawns
and other plants grown for their leaves have h igher n itrogen
levels; fertilizers that maxim ize flowering and fru it i ng have h igher
phosphorus. When you shop, you'l l also see specia lty fertil izers
formulated for specific plants, such as roses, fruits, vegeta bles,
and (of course) lawns. While these fertilizers a re not necessarily
unique, the directions on the l a bel are specific to the featured
plants, so they're more useful for those plants than a re the
general d i rections on a general-purpose fertilizer.

NATU R A L

FERTILIZER TYPE Blood meal Cottonseed meal Fish emulsion Fish pellets

N-P-K RATIO 1 3-0-0 6-2-1 5-1-1 8-5-1

BENEFITS, USES Good source of nitrogen
in both solu ble and
insoluble forms. Scratch
it into the soil a round
pia nts. Store away from
cats and dogs.
Acidifies soil a s it
fertilizes, making it useful
where soils are commonly
alka line and for plants,
such as azaleas, that
require acidity.
Acts fairly q u ickly and
gently. Excellent for con-
tainer plants and leafy
vegetables. Fishy odor
can attract cats and
raccoons.
Blend the pel lets into the
soil of vegetable beds at
planting time. Fish odor
can attract a n i mals.

C H E M I CA L

FERTILIZER TYPE Liquid (including Solid gra n u les or pellets (above) or spi kes
water-soluble crystals) (right)

N-P-K RATIO Varies. 20-20-20 is common.
BENEFITS, USES Works wel l for most kinds of
plants, but requ i res frequent
a p p lication.
10-10-10 (all p urpose); 6-10-4 (flowers);
29-3-4 (lawns); 1 0-20-20 (vegetables)
Generally more nutrient per pound of
fertilizer than organic fertilizers and often
tailored to benefit specific types of plants.

398 PLANT MAINTENANCE AND CARE

Use a spading fork to work a dry granular fertilizer deep into a new Apply dry ferti lizers over the root area and use a cu ltivator or water it
garden bed where nutrients will do the most good. Water afterward. into soil. Be careful to not damage surface roots.

add only nitrogen. How often you fertilize later in the A P P LY I NG F E R T I L 1 Z E R

year depends on the plant. Heavy feeders benefit from Use a spading fork ro work a dry gr,lIlu,
regular applicarions of general. purpose fertilizers lar fertilizer into a new garden bed.
and extra nitrogen throughout the growing This rechnique puts phosphorus and
season. Others-ofren rhose that evolved in porassium at a level where they can besr
nutrient· poor environments-may need be absorbed by plant roors. Warer rhoI"
only one annual feeding with a general. oughly afrer incorporating rhe fertilizer.
purpose fertilizer, or rhey may flourish Around plants with roors close ro rhe
with no feeding at all. surface, gently scrarch rhe soil wirh a culrivaror.
Apply a dry granular fertilizer and warer rhor·
oughly. Because roors may exrend several feer
beyond rhe drip line, be sure ro spread fertilizer our
wide enough ro reach all rhe roors.
Liquid fertilizers can be applied wirh a watering can.
You can also use an injector device ro run rhe fertilizer
through your warering system. A simple siphon attach·
ment (page 396) draws a measured amounr of fertilizer
into a hose from concentrate.

• Walt two to three weeks after planting to apply liquid fertlizers.

• Controlled· release fertilizers are more convenient and less
Applying fertilizer accurately polluting than others.
to a lawn requires a drop spreader. • Organic fertilizers I mprove SOil structure as they release

n utrients.

A GUIDE TO FERTILIZERS 399

Pruning
K E E P P L A N T S H E A LT H Y A N D GOOD - LO O K I N G
Most trees, shrubs, a n d vines need pruning from time t o time. Make
most pruning cuts just above a bud, as shown here.
In a well-planned, well-pruned garden, you' re rarely
aware of pruning. Trees and sh rubs grow in perfect
proportion to each other, complementing your house
and other strLlctures rather than overwhelming them.
In fact, most people notice pruning only when it's
done badly.
This section discLlsses how and when branches
grow-information that will help you understand how
and when to prune. You'll also review the four basic
pruning cuts and learn when each should be used .
400 PLANT MAINTENANCE ANa CARE
WHY P R U N E?
If you choose the right plant for the right location and
give it plenty of room to expand, you probably won't
need to prune too often. You may have to cut back a few
stems or branches now and then as the plant matures,
but pruning won't be a major task.
Sometimes, however, circumstances make pruning a
necessity. A tree's branches may block your view as you
back out of your driveway, creating a safety hazard, or you
may move into a house with a garden so woefully neglect­
ed that it has turned into a jungle. These and several other
key reasons to prune are listed here.
To m a i nta i n safety Remove low-growing branches if
they impede passing vehicles or obscure oncoming
traffic from view. You m ay also need to take out split
or broken branches before they have the chance to
come crashing down on a person, car, or building. It's
wise, too, to prune out low-hanging, whip-like branch­
es (especially those with thorns) that may strike
passersby.
To a lter or rejuvenate growth Neglected, overgrown
shrubs can sometimes be turned into small multitrunked
trees if you remove their lower limbs; this may be a bet­
ter approach than digging out the shrub and planting
another in its place.
To d i rect growth Pruning influences the direction in
which a plant grows: Each time you make a cut, you stop
growth in one direction and encourage it in another. This
principle is important to keep in mind when you train
young trees to develop a strong branching structure.
To remove u n d e s i ra b l e growth Prune out unwanted
growth periodically. Cut out wayward branches, take
out thin growth that's too dense, and remove suckers
(stems growing up from the roots) and water sprouts
( u p right shoots growing from the trunk and branches).
To promote plant health Trees and shrubs stay healthi­
er if you remove branches that are diseased, dead, pest­
ridden, or rubbing together.
Th ree D s of P r u n i n g
--.. -----
To create part i c u l a r shapes You can prune a line of definite winter chill. In warmer-winter areas, timing will
closely planted trees or shrubs as a unit to create a
hedge_ If you're a hobbyist who practices topiary, you
can prune trees and shrubs into fanciful shapes.
To produce more flowers or fru its Flowering plants
and some fruit trees are pruned to increase the yield of Pru n i ng i n late dormancy Many plants, especially
blossoms and fruit and to improve their quality. You'll
need, for example, to remove spent flowers from
roses throughout their bloom time. For some fruit
trees, you'll make many small, precise cuts each dor­
mant season. Although this sort of pruning sometimes
ranks as a tedious chore, remember that your efforts
will pay off in lavish bloom and generous crops of fruit Deciduous plants are still bare, so you can easily spot
at harvest time.
Begin any pruning job by getting rid of the three Ds­
dead, damaged, and dysfunctional growth. Here, a
broken limb, hanging branches, crossing branches,
and water sprouts are shown to be removed.
W H E N TO P R U N E
Learning when to prune a particu­
lar plant is every bit as important
as knowing how to do the actual
job. The timing is easier to
understand if you know a little
about plant metabolism. Most
plants produce new leaves and
stem growth from spring
through midsummer. Photo­
synthesis proceeds IllOSt
intensively during this time,
producing food (in the form
of sugars) for the plant.
As full summer heat sets in,
the sugars are gradually trans­
ferred to the plant's woody
parts and its roots, where
they're stored during the wimer
dormant period. When spring
arrives, the stored sugars are used
to start new growth. Pruning is
timed to harmonize with this cycle;
it is typically done either late in dor­
mancy or during summer. For some
plants, a combination of both late-dor­
mancy and summer pruning often yields
the best results.
Note that these guidelines are most per-
tinent to climates with four distinct seasons and
vary depending on the particular plant's native climate. If
you have any doubts about the best time to prune a par­
ticular plant, ask your Lowe's nursery personnel or your
cooperative extension office for advice.
deciduous trees and shrubs, are best pruned in late win­
ter or early spring, just before they break dormancy.
Heavy frosts have abated, so the plants are less likely
to suffer cold damage at the point where you make
your cuts. Sugars are still stored in larger branches,
trunks, and roots, so little food will be lost to pruning.
broken and awkwardly growing branches and decide
PRUNING 401
P ru n i n g a s h a d e t re e

I n winter, a n overgrown hawthorn tree is Early spring after pruning, the crown of the The following summer, the pruned tree is much
dense and twiggy. tree is more open and airy. more attractive.

how to direct growt h . And because growth will soon branches are still thickly foliaged. An d because growth is
start, your p runing cuts will stimulate new growth in slower at this time of year, prlmi.l1g is less likely to stimulate
the direction . you wan t . new growth-an advantage when you're thinning. In cold­
For flowering trees a n d shrubs, you'll need t o know winter regions, don't do SW11mer prWling later than one
whether the flowers are produced on old or new growth. month before the first frost; if you do, an early frost may
If early spring flowers come on last year's wood-as in damage the plant at the point of the cuts.
the case of forsythia, flowering quince ( Cbaenomeies),
and flowering trees, such as peach and plum ( Prunus)­ P r u n i ng evergreens
you'll lose many flowers by pruning before plants break Although evergreen trees and shrubs don't drop their
dormancy. It's best to wait until flowering has finished leaves, they approach a near-dormant state during the
before pruning. But plants such as cinquefoil winter months. The group includes broad leaf ever­
( Potentitta ) , that bear flowers on leafy new greens-such as boxwood (Buxus) and camellia-and
growth formed in spring can safely be conifers, among them spruce ( Picea) and pine.
pruned while dormant. Broad-leaved evergreens are usually best
pruned in late dormancy or in summer,
Pru n i ng in s u m m e r A second as outlined above. For flowering
time to prune is in late SUlllmer, broad·leaved evergreens, however,
when sugars needed for the timing is a bit m o re p recise; you'll
next year's growth need to prune with an eye
are 1110ving toward preserving flower
into large buds. Prune after
SCISSORS-CUT
limbs, SHEARS bloom for
trunks, and evergreens
roots and will not be seriously depleted b y flowering
pruning. Some gardeners like to thin plants on last sea­
in summer, because it's easier to see how son's growth;
much thinning is reaLly needed when prune before spring

402 PLANT MAINTENANCE AND CARE


Shorten new spring growth to control the size and shape of
whorl-branching conifers, such as this pine.
growth begins for those that bloom on new growth.
Most conifers are pruned only in their first two or
three years in order to direct their basic shape; from then
on, they're best left alone. Some of the most badly botched
pruning you'll see is on conifers that have been pruned too
severely, usually to keep them confined to a too-small loca­
tion-a1though a few conifers, including arborvitae
(Platycladus and Thu;a) , yew ( Taxtls), and hemlock ( Tsugal.
lend themselves t o shearing into hedges. When you do
need to prune a conifer. the tinling will depend on whether
the plant is a whorl-branching or random-branching type.
In whorl-branching conifers, the branches radiate out
from the trunk in whorls. Members of this group include
fir (Abies), spruce (Picea) , and pine (Pillus). These trees
produce all their new growth in spring; buds appear at the
tips of new shoots as well as along their length and at their
bases. On pines, the new shoots are called candles, because
that's what they look like until the needles open out.
Prune whorl-branched conifers in early spring. To
induce branching, you can pinch or cut anywhere along
the new growth, being sure to do so before the shoots
harden. When the tree is still relatively small, you can nip
back the pliant new growth of the leader (the central
upward-growing stem) and all side b ranches to make a
denser, bushier plant. If you cut into an older stem, howev­
er--even at a point where it bears foliage-no new growth
will sprout from below the cut.
Unlike whorl-branching sorts, random-branching
conifers have branches that grow randomly along the
R E M O V I N G A B RA N C H
When removing heavy branches, avoid ripping the bark by
shortening the branch to a stub before cutting it off at the
branch collar. Use a sharp pruning saw and make these three
cuts as described below:
1. About a foot from the branch base, make a cut from the
underside approximately a third of the way through
2. About an inch farther out on the branch, cut through the top
until the branch rips off. The branch should split cleanly
between the two cuts.
3. Make the final cut by placing the saw beside the branch
bark ridge and cutting downward just outside of the branch
col lar. (If the branch angle is very narrow, cut upward from
the bottom to avoid cutting into the branch collar.)
trunk. These plants don't limit their new growth to spring,
but grow in spurts throughout the growing season. Trees
of this type include cedar (Cedrus), cypress ( Cupressus) ,
dawn redwood (MetasequoIa) , redwood (Sequoia) , giant
sequoia (Sequoladendron) , bald cypress ( Taxodium), and
hemlock ( Tsuga) . Prune these as you would deciduous and
broad-leaved evergreen trees. New growth will sprout from
below the prunulg cuts as long as the remauling branch
bears some foliage; in general, no new growth wili develop
from bare branches, but hemlock is an exception. It's best
to prune random-branchulg conifers right before new
growth begins in spring.
PRUNING 403
G rowt h B u d s o n a B ra n c h C u tt i n g A b o v e t h e B u d
CORRECT INCORRECT

TERMINAL
GROWTH BUD

45° ANGLE TOO ANGULAR TOO LOW TOO HIGH

growth that makes a plant bushy. These buds stay

dormant until the shoot has grown long enough to
diminish the influence of the hormones produced by the
terminal bud or until the terminal bud is pruned off-then
they begin their growth. If you remove lateral buds, you'll
redirect growth to the terminal bud; the shoot will
lengthen dramatically and tend to grow upward.

1III__!!,.ii1I1==_I!II�breaks or is cut off just

Latent b u d s lie dormant beneath the bark. If a branch
U N D E R STAN D I N G G R OWTH B U DS
Pruning makes sense when you u nderstand the role and above a latent bud, the
locations of growth buds. Select the bud you want to bud may develop a
keep and cut just beyond it. The resulting growth new shoot to replace
will vary depending on the bud. If your pruning the wood that has been
is to have the effect you want, you'll need to removed. If you need to
learn to recognize three different kinds of repair a damaged plant,
growth buds. look for a latent bud
and cut above it.
A term i n a l bud grows at the
tip of a shoot and causes P R U N I N G CUTS
the shoot to grow There are four basic
longer. These buds pruning cuts, each
produce hor­ aimed at producing a
mones that move different effect. For cuts
downward along that involve cutting
the shoot, above a growth bud,
inhibiting the m ake your cut as shown
growth of other at left above. Angle it at
buds on that about 45°, with the
shoot. lowest point of the cu t
opposite the bud and
Lateral buds grow along even with it; the highest
the sides of a shoot and point about � inch above
give rise to the sideways LOPPERS HEDGE SHEARS
the b u d .

404 PLANT MAINTENANCE AND CARE

P i n c h i ng is one of the easiest " cuts " to make without
cutting: You simply pinch off a terminal bud with your
thumb and forefinger. This stops the stem from elon­
gating and encourages bushy growth. It is typically
done on ann ual and perennial flowers and on some
vegetables. Also use it to direct growth of small-leaved
shrubs and give the plant an even shape.
HEADING
Head i n g means cutting farther back
on the shoot than you would for
pinching. I n most cases, the later-
al bud has already grown a leaf, and
you cut right above the leaf. Usually done
with hand-held pruners, heading stimulates the
buds just below the cut, encouraging dense growth.
SHEARING
S hearing, customarily used to create a hedge or a bush
with spherical or square form, i s a form of heading
that makes no attempt to cut back to a bud. However,
because plants chosen for this treatment typically have
many lateral b u ds close together, you'll usually end up
cutting near a bud. Shearing stimulates many buds to
produce new growth, so you'll be repeating the job
regularly after you start . Because this method cuts
right through leaves, it's best done on small-leaved
plants, where damage is less noticeable. Use hand-held
or electric hedge shears for this kind of pruning.
T h i n n i ng reduces the bulk of a plant with minimal
regrowth : Each cut removes an entire stem or branch,
either back to its point of origin on the main stem or
ELECTRIC
HEDGE
SHEARS
to the
point where it
joins another
branch. Because you remove
a number of lateral buds along with the
stem or branch, you're less likely to wind up with
clusters of unwanted shoots than you are when making
heading cuts. (A common mistake of inexperienced gar­
deners is to make a heading cut when a thinnulg cut is
needed.) Use hand-held pruners, loppers, or a pruning
saw to make thUlning cuts, depending on the thickness of
the branch being cut.
Ida
• Use scissors-cut hand shears for precise cuts on branches u p
to 111 inch thick.
• Use long-handled loopers for the extra leverage needed to cut
branches up to 13/4 inches.
• Use bow saws to cut large limbs quickly.
PRUNING 405

Lawn Care
WATERI N G , MOWI N G , A N D FERT I L I Z I N G
T h e k e y to a great lawn-one t h a t is dense, evenly
green, and has few pests o r weeds-is not doing just
one thing righ t ; i t 's doing a combination o f things
right. A great lawn results from a balanced program of
proper watering, fertilizing, mowing, and aerating.
And that's assuming you've planted a type o f grass
that's well adapted to your area (for more about choos­
ing the right grass, see pages 3 3 8 to 3 45 ) . But assuming
you've got a reasonably healthy lawn to start with,
here's how to keep it beautiful.
WAT E R I N G
Although lawns do need lots of water, many gardeners
are too generous, often providing twice the amount the
lawn really needs. Overwatering does more than just
waste water. I t leaches fertilizer and nat�ral soil n u tri­
ents from the root zone and creates perpetually wet
conditions that can encourage disease. A n d a heavily
watered lawn grows faster and requi res more mowing.
406 PLANT MAINTENANCE AND CARE
A sma ller lawn means big savings in water use and mowing time,
especially if you choose a drought-tolerant, low-maintenance grass,
such as this buffalo grass lawn in San Antonio, Texas.
I n general, warm -season grasses require less mois­
ture than cool-season types; the tall fescues are among
the least needy of the cool-season ones. On average,
however, most grasses need 1 to 2 inches of water per
week, whether from rainfall, i rrigation, or both. To
encourage roots to grow deep, water infrequently,
adding the 1 to 2 inches all a t one go. If you simply
sprinkle on a little water each day, the roots will stay
near the su rface. I f there is then a prolonged dry spell
o r i f you forget to water, the root system won't be able
to draw enough water from deeper i n the soil to
survIve.
After watering, wait until the top inch or two of soil
has dried before watering again. To check, probe the soil
with a thick piece of wire or a long screwdriver. I t will
Illove easily through moist soil but stop when it reaches
firmer, dry soil. You can also use a soil-sampling tube
(see page 3 89 ) . A n even faster way to determine whether
a lawn needs watering is simply to walk across it. If your

Where rain does not reliably sustain lawn growth, an underground
sprinkler system is essential. Maximum effi ciency is achieved by
proper operation and maintenance.
footprints remain for several minutes, it's time (0 water
(a well-watered lawn springs right back) .
Water early in the day, when there's less moisture
loss due ( 0 heat evaporation, and when wind is less
likely (0 blow water away. If you need (0 water later in
the day, do so well before dusk so the grass wiLl dry
before nightfaLl. Grass that stays damp for long periods
i s typically more susceptible to disease.
Most lawns are watered by sprinklers-either the
hose-end son or those that are part of a fixed system.
U s i ng hose-e n d s p r i n k l e rs AvaiJable kinds include
oscillating sprinklers, machine-gun pulsating types,
revolving-arm sprinklers, and walking sprinklers that
move along a laid-out hose. Delivery patterns and
amounts vary from one model (0 another. The shape and
slope of your lawn will affect the type you choose; kinds
that deliver water relatively quickly, for example, may
cause runoff on slopes.
Be aware that all hose-end sprinklers have some
uneven distribution, providing more water to some
areas than to others. I f you end up overwatering most of
the lawn just to get enough moisture (0 those few areas
mat receive less water, consider changing the type of
sprinkler or where you place it. This may be all that's
Rotating and other types of portable sprinklers are convenient if you live
where lawns need supplemental watering only occasionally.
needed (0 conserve a fair amount of water each week.
To get a good idea of your current setup's water dis­
tribution pattern, foLlow the method shown on the bot­
tom of page 390.
Using u n dergrou nd s p r i n k lers I f lawns in your area
require regular watering-or if you'd just rather not
bother with manually placing and moving sprinklers­
consider installing an underground sprinkler system. If
planned carefuLly, these systems virtuaLly eliminate the
problem of uneven water delivery. In fact, the design is
the most important parr of the job. You'Ll need to deter-
U S E ET TO WATER YO U R LAWN
No, this isn't about extraterrestrial lawn care. Here, ET stands
for evapotranspiration. This mouthful of a word is the amount
of water that transpires through a plant's leaves combined with
the amount that evaporates from the soil in which the plant is
growing. Measured i n inches, ET is an accurate guideline for
how much water a lawn needs.
Appropriately enough, ET varies from place to place, day to
day, season to season, and year to year. But if you know the
average for your general area and make adjustments to fit your
lawn and the weather, you can water much more efficiently
than you would without this information.
Many communities have guidelines based on ET figures to
help gardeners determine how long to water. Rates are lower in
spring and fall than they are during the summer. To find out
whether ET guidelines exist for your area, contact your county
cooperative extension office.
LAWN CARE 407
mine the p l acement of pipes and sprinkler heads, making Warm-season grasses grow fastest in hot weather;
sure that the water patterns from each head overlap for cool-season grasses i n spring. A t the peak of the growing
even coverage. For more about underground sprinkler season, mowing may be needed more than once a week.
systems, see pages 2 12 through 2 1 9 . A t other times of year, every two weeks or even once a
month may be enough. Mow cool-season grasses higher
M OW I N G during hot weather.
Even if you're somewhat cavalier in the care of your
lawn, you'll probably be able to maintain it fairly well Lawn mowers Hand-pushed mowers were once the only
i f you water regularly and follow this one rule: Never type of mower sold. The original models were cumber-
mow off more than the topmost third of a b lade of
grass at one time. Even i f the lawn is overgrown, mow
ofF j ust a third; wait a few days and mow another third.
Because each blade of grass provides food for the
en t i re plant, continual scalping will cqmpromise the
health of the lawn. Roots may die, and it will be less
able to withstand heat, drought, and i n cursions b y
pests a n d diseases.
The optimum heights of various grasses differ. Under
normal conditions, these heights are as follows:

• Creeping bent grass: � to 1 inch

• Blue grama grass: 3 to 4 inches
• Buffalo grass: 2 to 4 inches

• Hybrid bermuda: � to 1 inch

• Centipede grass: 1 to 2 inches Self-propelled electric mower Self-propelled gas-powered mower

• Tall fescue: 2 to 3 inches

• Fine fescue: 1 � to 2 Y2 inches some, and their popularity declined with

• Perennial ryegrass: 1 � to 2 inches the advent of self-propelled gasoline and
• Bahia grass: 2 to 3 inches electric mowers, which are easier to use:
• Seashore paspalum: � to 1 inch You just walk along beh i n d them, guid­
• Kentucky bluegrass: 2 to 3 inches ing their direction. But older gas mow­
• St. Augustine grass: 1 � to 2 inches ers-like car engines-require regular
• Zoysia: 1 to 2 inches maintenance, can be fussy about start­
ing, and spew fWlles into the air. And
older electric mowers, although
fume-free, can cause problems too.
You need to have a n outdoor outlet
=-��
and, i n order to n10W a large
yard, a very long cord.
In recent years,
improvements have been
made in all types of
mowers. The new
hand-pushed
types, suit­
able for
small to
med i u m ­
s i z e lawns,
Aim to cut of: no more than the top third of grass blades with each mow- are more
ing-removing more than that slows regrowth. Leave clippings on lawn.

408 PLANT MAINTENANCE AND CARE

LEFT: Using a drop spreader overlap wheels so that swaths just touch. To
ensure even coverage, cut appl ication rate in half and cover lawn this
way i n perpendicular directions.
compact and lighter in weight than their predecessors;
many can easily be carried in one hand. Their blades
cut cleaner and stay sharper longer than those of self­
propelled mowers. ( M ost models have four or seven
blades; a four-bladed mower is a good choice for most
home lawns, while a seven-bladed model will cut a
bent grass lawn to putting-green perfection . ) And, of
course, these mowers don 't fill the air with gas
fumes.
The pollution problem is certainly one drawback
of gas mowers. lr has been postulated that they con­
tribute significantly to poor air quality, and in many
cities, gardeners are asked not to use them on spare-me­
air or ozone-action days. Still, the newest gasoline
mowers offer an improvement over older types. The
simple two-cycle kinds have more efficient engines
and require less mechanical know-how to stay in
running order. Many are fairly light and small­
good choices for maintaining a medium to
large lawn.
Electric mowers have changed dramati­
cally. They still offer self-propelled power
without gas fumes or noise, but me cord
is gone, replaced by a battery with
enough power to cut most
lawns on a single charge.
Most gasoline and elec­
tric mowers include so­
called mulching mowers
that chop the cut grass
blades into tiny pieces and
deposit them back on me STRING TRIMMER
CENTER: II you include wheels in swath width, unfertilized tracks will
appear later as light green stripes.
RIGHT: Avoid inadvertently covering the same area twice. Overdoses of
fertilizer can cause burned looking dead areas.
lawn. While it's always a good idea to leave grass clippings
on the lawn-they decompose and return n utrients to the
soil-m ulching mowers result in a partiCLuarly neat look
( because the clippings are so fine) and
speed up the decomposition process.
Mower blades should be sharp­
ened at least once a year, more fre­
quently if the grass begins to look
chewed rather than sharply cut.
Edging a lawn can take as much time as
mowing it. Concrete or brick mowing strips
( like the one shown in the picture on page 3 3 8 )
reduce the need for edging. For edging small areas,
hand-held shears are effective. For larger lawns, how­
ever, battery-operated or gas-powered trimmers are
more efficien t. But avoid using these for edging around
large shrubs or trees, however, because the nylon string
can easily whip into the bark and damage it badly.
They're also risky around annual and perennial beds.
Angle the trimmer the wrong way for even a split sec­
ond, and you'll decapitate your plants.
F E R T I L 1 Z I NG
To grow well, lawns need some fertilizing each year. If
unfed, they'll grow sparsely, allowing weed seeds to ger­
minate and flourish. Grass that's insufficiently nourished
is also more susceptible to pests and diseases.
What your lawn doesn't need, however, is year-round,
Flexible-line trimmers are the quickest way to trim grass along
wal kways, fence lines, and other places mowers can't reach.
LAWN CARE 409
overenthusiastic feeding. In fact, some say the greatest
threat to water supplies comes not from pesticides or
industrial runoff, but from excess nitrogen applied ro
lawns by home gardeners and landscape maintenance com­
panies. Extra nitrogen fosters algal overgrowth ill lakes and
rivers, thus upsetting their ecosystems. Beyond this, it
doesn't even help the lawn that much in Lhe long run.
More thatch develops, roots don't grow as weU, and more
water is needed.
Fertilizing just once or twice a year is sufficient for Dog urine
most lawns. If you're growing a cool-season grass, fertil­
ize in fall. Roots will be nourished, and the stored nutri­
ents will give new growth a boost in spring. Depending
on the lawn's overall health and growth, you may want to
fertilize again in late spring or early su·n;mer. Warm­
season grasses should be fertilized in summer, at the
height of their growth period. Fertilize once in June and
a second time in August.
For ,Uly grass, use a fertilizer formulated especially for
lawns, choosing a controUed-release formula. Some fertiliz- Uneven fertilizing
ers are mixed with herbicides to control weeds in the lawn;
such a product may be a good choice if your lawn is infest­
ed with a weed susceptible to the particular herbicide
( check the label to see which weeds the product kills).
To ensure even distribution, use an applicator, such
as the one shown on page 3 99. Uneven distribution often
results in fertilizer burn or unevenly green grass.

S O LV I N G LAWN P R O B L E M S
The best way t o solve many lawn problems i s to Chinch bugs
prevent them from occurring in the first place, by
watering, mowing, fertilizing, aerating, and dethatch­
ing regula rly. Some of the more common problems are
described in this section. I f you' re not sure what's
causing the symptoms you see, consult a Lowe's store
or your cooperative extension office or h i re a
professional to inspect your lawn and make an
assessment. For more about products or remedies, see
pages 4 1 4 through 424.
Sod webworms
Gaso l i n e s p i l l s or dog urine can cause round patches
of dead grass. To remedy the problem, drench the area
thoroughly with water, and then gently rake away the
dead grass. If the bare patch doesn't fill in on its own,
reseed it or replace it with a patch of sod.

U n even fert i l izer a p p l ication can result in dead or

yellow patches. Parts of the lawn that received the right
amount of fertilizer turn dark green, areas that didn't get
enough are pale green or yellow, and those that received White grubs
roo much fertilizer burn and turn brown. Remove me

410 PLANT MAINTENANCE ANO CARE

dead patches and water well. If the grass doesn't come
back on its own, reseed or resod.
C h i n c h bugs are Y4 -inch-Iong, gray black insects that
suck juices from grass blades. They cause brownish
yellow patches in lawns, primarily in St. Augustine and
zoysia grasses (and sometimes in bluegrass and creep­
ing bent grass) , especially in hot or drought-stressed
conditions. To diagnose, sink an empty can (open at
both ends) into the ground at the edge of a patch. Fill
the can with water. If chinch bugs are present, they'll
float to the sLu·face. To minimize spread, keep the area
well watered. Chemical controls include insecticidal
soap, pyrethroids, and sevin.
green grass surrounding areas of dead or light-colored
grass; mushrooms may or may not be present at the
perimeter of the green area. The rings result from a
fungal disease common in lawns growing in soil high in
organic matter. To control the problem, aerate the soil,
apply a nitrogen fertilizer formulated for lawn care,
and keep the lawn wet for three t6 five days.
Rust is a fungal disease. Among lawns, it affects prima­
rily bluegrass and ryegrass. Grass blades tu rn yellowish
to reddish brown throughout, small reddish pustules
form in groups on older blades and stems, and the

Sod webworms aren't worms at all, but small, hairless

gray caterpillars-the larvae of tiny buff-colored moths
that, i f present, can be seen flying close to the lawn's
s urface in the evening. Sod webworms feed on grass
blades. Symptoms are small dead patches of lawn that
appear in spring and enlarge during summer. To diag­
nose, drench an area of lawn near the dead spots with
Dandelion Crabgrass
a solution of 1 tablespoon liquid dishwashing deter­
gent diluted in 1 gallon of water. The larvae will come
to the s urface. If you find more than 15 larvae in a
square yard, treat the lawn. For chemical control, use
Bacillus thuringiensis, insecticidal soap, neem,
pyrethroids, or sevin. I f you don't want to use chemi­
cals, you may be able to reduce the pest population by
improving lawn care. Don't overwater or overfertilize;
dethatch and aerate (page 4 1 2 ) regularly.

Wh ite grubs is a catchall name for the soil-dwelling

larvae of various kinds of beetles, including June bugs
(named for the month when they are usually noticed) , rose
chafers, and Japanese beetles. The larvae of all these
beetles feed on lawn roots. They're typically white with
brown heads; when exposed, they curl up in a C-shape.
Signs of their presence include distinct, irregularly
shaped btown patches in the lawn; damage is usually most
severe in late summer. Because the roots have been eaten,
the dead patches pull up easily. Remove a patch and dig
into the soil; if you find more than one grub per square
foot, treat the soil. Correct identification of the grubs will
help you choose the best means of treatment; for help in
identifying them, take a few to a Lowe's, or a cooperative
extension office. Nematodes control many kinds of grubs.
Chemical controls include halofenizide and
imidacloprid.
Fairy ri ngs are small to large circular patches of dark
Bermuda grass Yellow oxalis
blades eventually die. The best solution for rust is to
apply a nitrogen fertilizer formulated for lawn care,
water regularly, and mow more frequently.
Weeds infesting the rest of your garden will also attempt
to establish themselves in the lawn. A healthy lawn isn't at
high risk. Its grass stems grow thickly together, making it
diIficult for weed seeds to reach soil, germinate, and take
root. But if the lawn is in poor condition and patchy soil is
exposed, weed infestation is likely.
Some warm-season grasses-bermuda and zoysia,
in particular-can themselves be weeds if accidentally
introduced into a lawn of a different grass type. The
controls noted for bermuda grass noted on page 423
are also effective against zoysia. Other lawn weeds
include common mallow, crabgrass, dandelion, oxalis,
plantain, quack grass, and spotted spurge.

LAWN CARE 41 1
o Check your lawn for thatch, acc u m u lated dead stems,
roots, and other debris that i m pedes the penetration of water. A
small amount of thatch, less t h a n V2 i n c h , is norma l .
R e n ov a t i n g a L a w n
Dethatc h i n g a n d aerat i n g Controlling thatch is one of
the most important-and most overlooked-parts of lawn
care. Thatch is simply the layer of dead grass, roots,
and debris that accumulates ben,veen the soil surface
and the green grass blades above. Over time, it forms a
thick mat, hin dering water and air from reaching the
soil and providing an environment that can encourage
pests and diseases. Dethatching can help prevent these
problems.
Almost every lawn needs dethatching about
once a year or whenever the thatch reaches a
thickness of about 1,12 inch. To check, j ust work
your fingers into the grass a n d note the
depth of the thatch layer. Dethatch cool­
season grasses in fall, warm-season types
i n early spring.
I f your lawn is small, you can
detbatch it witb a special
detbatcbing rake. The sturdy,
very sbarp, crescent-shaped
412 PLANT MAINTENANCE A N D CARE
f) Dethatching machine slices through m at of old t u rf s o new
seeds can reach soil. Dethatc h i n g a lso promotes air circu lation
and elim i nates h i d i n g places for pests.
tines slice into tbe thatch, and you tben rake it up.
For larger lawns, you may prefer to rent a dethatching
machine. Similar in appearance to a large, beavy gas
mower, it has knifelike blades tbat slice tbe turf verti­
cally. Make several crisscrossing passes to cut a n d
loosen t h e tbatcb, a n d then rake u p a n d remove all
debris.
Dethatching m achines have several settings. For
most grasses, adjust tbe blades to a high setting and 3
inches apart; for tougher grasses, such as bermuda a n d
zoysia, s e t t h e blades lower a n d about an i n ch apart.
Aerat ion, a method of punching holes i n to the
lawn to allow moisture, oxyge n , and nutrients to pene­
trate the soil, also helps b reak u p thatch. I ts primary
goal is to loosen compacted soil; it's often needed for
lawns grown i n clay soils and those subject to heavy
foot traffic. You can d o the job more than once a year,
if necessary. If you aerate once ann ually, d o it in fall for
cool-season grasses, in spring for warm -season sorts.
You can aerate soil with a hand tool. Press tbe cut­
ting end into the soil with your foot, and then lift it
out along with a 2 - inch, cylin d rical plug of sod. Hand
aeration is certainly good aerobic exercise, but i t can
b e time consuming i f you have a large lawn. For good­
sized areas, a gas-powered aerator does tbe job faster;
rent one from supply centers offering garden-machine
rentals. (You may also see spike-soled sandals sold as
aerating tools: You walk back and forth over the lawn
wearing this footgear, and the spikes will supposedly
e Power aerators remove cyl indrical plugs of grass and soil,
leavi ng small holes i n the lawn where turf seeds can germinate.
Aerating also i m proves air and water circu lation .
o Rake up and remove soil and debris brought t o t h e surface
by the dethatching and aerating process.
penerrare rhe soil. Unfortunarely, rhe spikes are both roo
short and roo rhin ro do an efficient job. Save your money. )
Afrer rhe lawn has been aerared, clear away rhe
plugs and spread a layer of organic marrer, such as
composr o r soil con dirioner, over rhe lawn. Warer the
organic marrer in, and i r will seep into rhe holes lefr by
rhe plugs, improving rhe soil's rexture.
LAWN R E N OVAT I O N
A r some point, you may move into a home with a rired,
worn lawn. Before you decide rhar you need ro remove ir
and start over from scrarch, see if ir can be renovated.
As a firsr srep, give rhe lawn good care. Check for
diseases and pesrs, conrrol any you find, and ger ri d of
weeds. A r rhe besr time of year for your type of grass,
e Scatter seeds of a top-quality lawn seed over the aerated
and dethatched lawn. Follow up with fertilizer, a light m u lch,
and water.
derhatch and aerare, being sure you do a rhorough job.
You want ro be certain thar grass seed will be able to reach
rhe soil ro germinate. Rake up and remove all debris.
Buy a grass seed comparible with your climare and
rhe use rhe lawn will receive (see pages 3 3 8 ro 345 ) .
Apply borh seed and a complete granular controlled­
release fertilizer over rhe lawn . Top-dress rhe area wirh
an organic amendment, such as composr or soil condi­
rioner. I t will seep inro the holes made during aerarion,
improving rhe soil, and wilJ also provide some prorec­
rion for rhe germinaring grass seeds.
Water rhe lawn lightly and evenly and conrinue to
warer ofren enough to keep ir consrantly moist until
rhe seeds are fully sproured and the new blades are
abour a rhird raller rhan their optimum height (rhis
usually works our ro 2 to 3 inches tall ) . You may need
ro warer rhree, four, or more rimes a day if rhe wearher
is warm. Afrer rhe new grass is rall enough, you can
mow it, raking off only rhe top rhird. At rhis rime,
begin a regular watering program, bur avoid walking
on rhe lawn for anorher four to six weeks.
lAWN CARE 413

Managing Garden Pests
KNO\XTIN G W H E N- A N D WHEN N OT-TO TAK E A C T I O N
T h e notion of pest control-where control implies
eradication-has been superseded by the concept of
pest management. The management concept acknowl­
edges that many perceived " p roblems " are n atural
components o f gardens, a n d the presence of pests
doesn 't necessarily spell trouble. I n a diversified gar­
den , most insect pests are kept i n check b y natural
forces ( s uch as predators and weather) . If pests reach
damaging levels, however, temporary intervention may
be needed to restore a balance.
Because o f this natural system of checks a n d
balances i n a garden , it makes sense to determine
which form of intervention will return the situation to
a normal balance with the least risk o f destroying
helpful ( as well as harmless ) organisms that maintain
the equilibrium. Action choices range' from doing
nothing (giving nature a chance to correct the imbal­
ance) , to using restraints (washing plants, thereby
repelling or physically destroying the damagers ) , to
414 PLANT MAINTENANCE A N a CARE
Pests are rare in this garden because the plants are appropriate
to the climate, and because the diversity of plants encourages
beneficial insects and birds, essential partners i n pest control.
i mplementing biological controls ( i m p roving the help­
ful side of nature's control system ) , or, as a last choice,
using chemical controls.
T H E I N T E G R AT E D A P P R OA C H ( I P M )
More and more gardeners are turning to physical restraints
and biological controls as a first line of defense against gar­
den pests because they want natural gardens that are safer
for children, pets, and wildlife. Yet garden experts
acknowledge the need for at least occasional trearnlent
with chemical controls. This approach-the preferred use
of natural and mechanical controls, plus chemicals as a dis­
cretionary second choice-is called integrated pest man­
agement, or IPM for short. I ncreasingly, IPM is being used
in parks, city landscapes, and greenhouses.
The following points e x plain how to i mplement
IPM i n your own garden. Most are just good common
sense, but it helps to see how basic gardening practices
influence pest problems.
Select w e l l -adapted pla nts Choose plams that are
adapted to your area and that are resistant to your
region's pest and disease problems. Plams stressed by SYNTH ETIC I N SECTI C I DES
inhospitable climate or from lack of water or nutrients
are more vulnerable to damaging organisms than are Here are the most common insecticides, listed b y active
their healthy, weU-cared-for counterparts. ingredient, with the most common trade names in parentheses.
Broad-spectrum insecticides kill a wide-variety of insects. Use
Adjust p l a nt i n g time If by planting early you can them only as a last resort as their victims usually include many
avoid a pest, do so. For instance, a common pest of non pest insects. SystemiC insecticides are absorbed by plants,
beans, spider mites, are most troublesome when the rendering all parts toxic for days or weeks.
weather t urns hot. By planting beans early. as soon as ACEPH ATE (ORTHENE) A synthetic pOison (one absorbed by the
soil warms, you can avoid them . Keep records of plant and i ncorporated into its tissues), this broad-spectrum
planting dates and temperatu res so you can make product is used against aphids, beetles, caterpillars,
adjustments from season to season. grasshoppers, leaf m iners, mealybugs, thrips, root weevils,
whiteflies, other pests. Don't use on edible crops. Toxic to
Try mechanical controls honeybees and birds.
Handpicking, traps, barri­ CARBARYL (SEVIN) Broad-spectrum contact insecticide.
ers, floating row covers, or Controls most chewing insects but is not effective against
strong water sprays can many sucking types. In fact, it often increases problems
reduce or thwart many with the latter by destroying natura l predators. Registered for
pests, especially in the use on edible crops. Highly toxic to honeybees, fish, and
early stages of a potential earthworms.
problem. Cleanup of plant IM IDACLOPRID (MERIT) Systemic. Controls a variety of pests in
debris can remove the lawns and ornamentals. Particularly effective against hard­
environment in which cer­ to-control pests like scale and borers. Toxic to fish.
Pick large pests l i ke tomato horn­ tain pests and d i seases MALATHION Broad-spectrum contact insecticide that controls
worm b y hand (or with a tool). breed or overwinter. aphids, beetles, caterpillars, mealybugs, scales, thrips,
whiteflies, other pests. Registered for use on edible crops.
Accept m i nor damage A Toxic to honeybees, birds, and fish.
totally pest- free garden is PYRETHROIDS SynthetiC versions of plant-based pyrethrins,
neither possible nor desir­ pyrethroids are increasingly being used i n pesticides and are
able. Allow natural con­ effective against many household and garden pests. Active
trol methods to play the ingredients include permethrin, cyfluthrin, esfenvalerate, and
major role in maintaining others. Less hazardous to humans, birds, and mammals than
a healthy balance between many other pesticides; toxic to honeybees and fish.
pests, beneficial insects,
and the many harmless
Yellow sticky card attracts and insects and creatures that
traps tiny whiteflies. are normal in gardens. Use chemicals prudently on those rare occasions you
need one. Before you buy a chemical control and apply
Use less-toxic alternatives Release or encourage bene­ it, be sure you have cor­
ficial insects; use soaps, horticultural oils, botanical rectly identified the prob­
insecticides (such as n atural pyrethrins and neem), and lem. Use a pesticide only to
one of several packaged forms of Bacillus thuringiensis. solve a problem if both the
Realize that beneficial insects may take a while to pest and the plant it is
reduce the pests they prey upon and that you may have preying on are listed on the
to use n o n chemical controls at more frequent intervals pesticide's label. If you are
than you would chemical controls. And although many at all uncertain, ask a
natural insecticides have a relatively low impact on the Lowe's nursery associate or
environment, they can be harmful to humans if used Ladybugs earn their good name by your nearest cooperative
carelessly. FoUow instructions exactly. consuming common pests. extension office.

MANAGING GARDEN P E S TS 415

CO M M O N I N S ECT P E ST S
The following insects a r e fami liar garden troublemakers
through most of N orth America.
A p h i d s are tiny green, yel­
low, black, or p i n k
i nsects-soft and some­
times winged. They cluster
thickly o n new growth ;
heavy infestations will
stunt new growth. I n
trees, t h e secretions o f the
sticky " honeydew" they
produce will drip on
everything 'beneath the
b ranches.
Controls Hose them off or spray with insecticidal soap,
illlidacloprid, neem , pyrethrum products, malathion,
or acephate.
Beetles are hard-shelled
insects that chew holes in
leaves and Howers; in larval
phase, they're ground­
dwelling grubs that often
feed on lawns. Japanese
beetles are a major summer
foliage pest in the eastern
United States.
Contro l s Hand pick, use
pheromone traps, or spray
with i midacloprid, neem,
pyrethrum products,
carbaryl, or malathion.
Borers are b u rrowing
insects that cause l i m bs
and b ranches to die.
Tel l tale signs may be small
holes in a tree or shrub branch accompanied by bits of
sawdust nearby. Those borers that tunnel beneath bark
may show n o entry holes but may leave bits of sawdust
in bark crevices. Young softwood trees and p l ants
stressed from i m p roper care are particularly vulnera­
ble. For prevention, wrap trunks of newly planted
specimens with special protective wrap. Adult moths
lay eggs on bark, so the best time to i n tervene is when
larvae are newly hatched a n d before tHey enter the
wood . Reduce plant stress b y providing better care,
such as more water.
Contro l s Drench soil with imidacloprid.
416 P LANT MAINTENANCE A N D CARE
Caterpil lars and worms
include many multilegged,
crawling larvae of moths
and butterflies. They range
from the relatively innocu­
ous inchworm to the vora­
cious, highJy destructive
gypsy moth caterpillar.
Contro l s Handpick or
spray with Bacillus thuringiensis, neem, carbaryl, or
acephate.
M ites are tiny spider
relatives fou n d o n leaf
u n d ersides (webbing is
often p rese n t ) ; leaf surface
is pale and stippled.
Foliage eventually dries
out a n d turns brown .
Contro l s Wash mites from
foliage with a strong blast
of water. Use native preda­
tory mites. Spray with insecticidal soap, swnmer oil,
neem oil, or sulfur.
S c a l e i n sects begin life as
tiny crawlers, but their
adult stage attaches to
stems and leaves, covering
their bodies with protec­
tive, waxy shells. Typically
they congregate in
colonies.
Contro l s Adult scale can
be rubbed off b y hand ( for l ight i n festations) or
sprayed with a dormant o i l ( for deciduous plants in
winter only ) . For the j uvenile, crawler stage, spray with
summer oil, carbaryl, malathion, imidacloprid, or
acephate.
S n a i l s a n d s l ugs are
night-feeding pests. Snails
have shells, slugs don't.
They feast on leaves, stems,
and flowers, leaving telltale
trails of silvery slime.
Contro l s Handpick a n d
destroy. Containers filled
with beer and set at
ground level attract the pests, which then fall ill and
drown. Use barriers: S u rround plants or beds with
rings of diatomaceous earth or enclose containers and garden centers sell lady beetles, but once released they
raised beds with copper strips. Use b'lits con taining often fly away rather th'1I1 sl<1ying in your garden.
nontoxic iron phosphate. Apply metaldehyde bait (but Freeing them at night or keeping them contained for the
keep i t away from children, pets, and b i rd s ) . first few days may encourage them to rem ain.

Wh iteflies are tiny white
pests that fly up in a cloud
when disturbed; they suck
plant j uices from leaf
undersides. Damaged
foliage is sometimes stip­
pled and may eventually
curl and turn brown.
Controls Hose off plants
frequently with water jets; spray di rectly with insecticidal
soap. Or try neem, pyrethrum products, and horticultur­
al oil. Stronger insecticides kill beneficials, often increas­
ing problems.
CO M M O N B E N E F I C I A L I N S ECTS
Some of the creatures described here are naturaLly pres­
ent in gardens; others, as noted, can be i ntroduced to
reduce various pest populations. Spiders and centipedes
are also important predators, as are toads, frogs, and
birds.
Ground beetles range from 11 to1 inch long; most are
shiny black, though some are also marked with bright
colors. The smalJer species eat other insects, caterpillars,
cutworms, and soil- dwelling maggots and grubs. Some
larger species eat slugs and snails and their eggs.
Lacewings An adult
lacewing is an inch-long,
flying insect with lacy, net­
ted wings and long anten­
nae. The immature or lar­
val form looks something
like a l1 -inch-long alligator;
it has visible legs and is
equipped with pincers at
the mouth end. Lacewing
larvae devour aphids, leafhoppers, mealybugs, mites,
psyllids, thrips, whiteflies, and other insects; adults of
most species feed only on nectar, pollen, and honeydew
from garden plants. Larvae are commercially available.
Parasitic nematodes include several species of micro­
scopic worms. Also known as beneficial or predatory
nematodes, they're effective against several hundred
kinds of insects, including cucumber beetles, cutworms,
flea beetles, grubs, root weevils, and sod webworl11s.
They attack the larvae, releasing a toxic b'lCteriul11 that
kills the host. Can be purchased. Effectiveness depends
on proper soil conditions and release techniques.
Soldier beetles are nar­
;
row, /; -inch-long, typicalJy
red or orange insects with
leathery-looking black ,
gray, or brown wing cov­
ers. Adults eat aphids and
other soft-bodied insects;
the tiny soil-dwelling
larvae attack smaller
insects. Adults also feed on pollen and nectar.
Syrp h i d f l i es , also known
as flower or hover flies, are
important naturally occur­
ring beneficials. Adults have
bodies banded with yellow;
they look a bit like bees but
..... have only one set of wings.
- _ While adults feed only on
nectar and poUen, the larvae
( tapered green or gray maggots with small fangs) consume
dozens of aphids each day.
Tac h i n i d fly adults are
gray and, bristled, look
something like houseflies.
They feed only on nectar,
but their tiny, spined, green
larvae parasitize pests such
as armyworms, cutworms,
stinkbugs, and smaller bee­
tle larvae. Many species, each attacking specific insects.

Ladybugs are familiar garden helpers and their larvae

(which look like � -inch-long six-legged alligators with
orange and black spots or stripes) feed on aphids, mealy­
bugs, and the eggs of many insects. Mail-orde r and

MANAGING GARDEN PESTS 417

AN I M A L P E S T S
A n u m b e r of a n i m a l s , including gophers, moles, squir­
rels, field mice, and deer can dam age gardens and
plants. You may be able
to keep tunneling moles,
gophers, and ground
squi rrels out of gardens
and beds by surrounding
them with underground
fencing 3 to 4 feet deep.
But that's not very prac­
tical. You can also use
barriers for raised beds,
o r plant bulbs and land­
scape plants in wire bas­
·kets. As a last resort, try
traps or poison baits,
Deer are thriving throughout North following the manufac-
America, and a pair like this can turer's instructions.
decimate a garden i n one evening. The best way to
keep aboveground
animals out o f your garden is to b u ild a strong fence.
Deer fen cing should be at least 7 feet high. Fencing to
keep out rabbits should be a few feet high b ut also
extend 6 inches below ground. To keep mice and other
anim als from feeding on bark, wrap trunks with pro­
tective mateoals. For more information on keeping
animals out o f your garden, consult your local coopera­
tive extension office.
i n great quantity. Spores o f some fungi enter plants
through the roots; others land on leaves, where they
attach and complete their life cycle. A single fungus­
infected leaf m ay release 1 00 million spores, which
drift through the garden and onto new hosts with even
the slightest breath o f air.
Bacteria need water and warmth to multiply, so the
diseases they cause tend to be more prevalent in warm, wet
climates. These single-celled organisms are easily transmit­
ted by rain, splashing irrigation water, and gardeners work­
ing among plants. They enter plants through a wound or
natural opening.
Viruses are even smaller than bacteria; they can repro­
duce only within the actual cells of the host organism.
Some viruses are transmitted by insects, such as aphids,
leafhoppers, and thrips; others are carried by infected
seeds and pollen. Viruses also enter plants through wounds
and cuts.
D I S EA S E P R EV E N T I O N
You can't always prevent a disease from attacking a
prized plant. The bacterial infection fireblight, for exam­
ple, can enter blossoms readily i f there is rain just at the
time of bloom; you'd have to control the weather to stop
it. A mosaic-virus-infected bare-root rose won't exhibit
symptoms until it leafs out.
Luckily, good gardening practices will fend off many
diseases. To keep plant problems under control, take the
following steps.

D I S EA S E S Keep p l a nts healthy by giving them the water, light,

A healthy plant, like a healthy human being, is better
able to resist the microorganisms that cause disease.
Focus on keeping your plants strong and vigorous, and
you'll have already taken an important step toward pre­
venting problems. Sometimes, though, diseases will
appear despite your best efforts. But if you're familiar
with their symptoms and the controls that can be used
against them, you'll have a better chance of stopping
them before they can get established.
Fungi, bacteria , and viruses are the pathogens most
often responsible for plant diseases. Unlike green
plants, these organisms are incapable o f m a n ufacturing
their own food and m ust instead take it from a host
plant. Fungi can live i n the soil, but the bacteria and
viruses that cause plant problems can't survive outside
thei r host.
Fungi multiply by tiny reproductive bodies called
spores ( their equivalent o f seed s ) , which they produce
and fertilizer they need to flourish.
Buy d i sease-resistant p l a nts You'll find tomatoes that
are resistant to verticillium wilt and flowering pear t rees
less likely to succumb to fireblight, for example. Vege­
table seed packets are labeled to indicate the particular
plant's disease resistance; plant tags on fruit trees or
ornamental trees and shrubs sometimes also include this
information. Your cooperative extension office can often
provide information on plants resistant to diseases that
may cause problems in your area.
Tra n s p l a n t caref u l l y to minimize root damage. When
broken, roots are susceptible to certain soilborne diseases.
Avoid i nj u r i n g p lants when you work in the garden. An
Continued on page 420

418 P LANT MAINTENANCE A N D CARE

 P R O D U CTS FOR D I S EASE P R EVENTI O N AND CONTR O L
A n u m ber o f products are aimed a t disease prevention or
control. These include preventives, products that prevent diseases
from occurring but can't control them after they become estab­
lished; eradicants, which help control diseases after they have
appeared (many s i mply protect new growth); and systemics,
materials that are taken up by plant roots and act as preventives,
eradicants, or both. Controls described here are the most useful
and commonly available ones. Other less widely sold products are
NATU RAL F U N G I C I DES A N D BACTE R I C I DES
Natural fungicides and bactericides are products whose active
i ngredients originate in a plant, animal, or m i neral, or whose
action results from a biological process (as in a product contain­
ing live bacteria that combat harmful fungi) "Natural," however,
does not mean "harm less:" Some of these products can harm
people or plants if not used properly. When using any product,
read l a bel d i rections carefully and follow them exactly. The pack­
age will clearly state the plants and diseases for which the con­
trol product is registered for use, and it is illegal to use it on a
plant or to control a disease not so listed.
BAKING SODA, SDDIUM BICARBONATE
You can buy baking soda sprays, but it's easy to make your own by
mixing 2 teaspoons each of baking soda and fine-grade horticul­
tural oil with 1 gallon of water. This solution helps to control pow­
dery m i ldew on roses. Commercial versions contain a sticky ingre­
d ient to help keep the spray on the plant.
COPPER COMPOUNDS (BORDEAUX MIXTURE)
General-purpose fungicides and bactericides used to prevent
SYNTH ETIC FU N G I C I DES
Synthetic fungicides are manufactured compounds that don't nor­
mally occur in nature. Here are the ones most useful for home
gardeners.
CHLOROTHALONIL (DACONIL, OTHERS)
Broad-spectru m liquid fungicide used to prevent powdery mildew,
leaf spots, gray mold, scab, and a variety of lawn and other
diseases. Toxic to fish.
MYCLOBUTANIL (lMMUNOX)
Liquid system ic for prevention and eradication of many common
mentioned i n the descriptions of specific plant diseases.
The products below are listed by the accepted common name of
the active ingredient; that is, the actual che_m ical that prevents or
controls the disease or diseases listed on the package label. Some
widely used trade names, if they differ from the common name, are
noted in parentheses. Before you buy, read the label to make sure
you're getting the active ingredient you want. Always dispose of
pesticides in a safe manner.
fireblight, peach leaf curl, shot hole, brown rot, and other foliar
diseases. Toxic to fish.
COPPER SOAP FUNGICIDE
Broad-spectrum fungicide used to control many plant diseases,
including rust, black spot, and powdery mildew.
LIME SULFUR, CALCIUM POLYSULFIDE
Used as a spray in winter (when plants are dormant) to prevent
various leaf spots and peach leaf curl. Very caustic; wear goggles
and plastic gloves when applying.
NEEM OIL (ROSE DEFENSE AND OTHERS)
Used to prevent and control black spot, powdery m ildew, and some
other foliar diseases. (Also used as an insecticide and miticide.)
Toxic to fish.
POTASSIUM BICARBONATE (REMEDY, OTHERS)
Used to control powdery mildew. May not be registered in all states.
SULFUR (SULFUR DUST, OTHERS)
Controls powdery mildew, rust, and other diseases. Do not use i n
conjunction with horticultural o i l sprays or when the outdoor tem­
perature is above 85°F.
diseases of lawns, roses, and fruit trees.
TRIADIMEFON (FUNGI-FIGHTER; FORMERLY BAYLETDN)
Wettable powder; systemic used for the prevention or eradication of
powdery mildew, rust, and some lawn diseases. Toxic to fish.
TRIFORINE ( FUNGINEX)
Liquid systemic for prevention and eradication of powdery mildew,
rust, black spot, and a variety of other diseases. You must wear
goggles and a face mask during application. Keep animals out of
treated areas.
MANAGING GARDEN PESTS 41 9
COl'lliilUed /rom page 4 18
open wound on a plant stem or tree trunk readily admits
bacteria and fungi.
Avoid wet-weather garden work You Illay unwittingly
spread waterborne pathogens as you move about from
one spot to the next.
Keep the garden c l ean Do a thorough fall cleanup
each year. Remove weeds, because pathogens may over­
winter on them. In mild-winter areas, strip off any dis­
eased leaves remaining on plants; rake up and discard all
diseased leaves on the ground. You may also want to
rake up other garden debris; although it can serve as a
good mulch ( if undiseased), it also shelters ground­
dwelling pests.

I nsta l l a d ri p- i rrigati o n system (see pages 2 1 8 and CO M M O N D I S EA S E S

2 1 9 ) o r use soaker hoses t o minimize the splashing water Anthrac nose is a fungus
that can spread waterborne diseases. that attacks new shoots
and leaves in spring,
causing them to turn
brown and die; in older
leaves it causes large,
irregular brown patches
and premature leaf
drop. Spores are spread
b y rainfall and sprin­
kling, so the disease is severe in wet springs but disap­
pears i n warm, dry weather. I t overwinters i n cankers on
twigs it has killed, only to reinfect new growth i n spring.
To prevent, cut out all dead twigs and branches.
Contro l s Spray with lime sulfur during the dormant sea­
son. Use chlorothalonil in spring (check with your coop­
erative extension service for timing in your area ) .

B l a c k spot is a fungal
disease that thrives in
high-humidity areas with
ample SWlUl1er rain. It
attacks roses exclusively.
Young leaves show black,
irregular circles, some­
times surrounded with a
Raking is more than a fall ritual that keeps the garden neat. It also yellow halo, that then
removes diseased leaves so they can't infect new growth next spring. drop from the plant.
Heavy infestation can
defoliate a plant, th us
R e m ove d i seased pla nts If certain plants are constant­ preventing it from build­
ly afflicted by disease, eliminate them from the garden ing up nutrient reserves.
and replace them with less trouble-prone choices. This In cold-weather regions, badly infected plants can become
solution is simpler than attempting to control the so depleted that they may not survive the wimer.
disease, and it removes sources of further infection. Contro l s Prevent the disease by planting resistant rose
varieties. Remove and destroy aU diseased foliage i n
D i s pose of i nfected pla nts and plant parts right away. fall. S o m e gardeners have had good luck controlling
Throw them out with the trash; don't compost them. black spot with weekly applications of a baking soda
Some pathogens may be killed by the heat generated dur­ and summer oil spray; to make the solution , mix 2 tea­
ing decomposition, but it's better not to take the chance. spoons baking soda and 2 teaspoons summer oil with a
gallon of water. Others report success with soap sprays

420 PLANT MAINTENANCE ANO CARE

or sulfur. Chemical controls include chlorothalonil
'
myclobutanil, and triforine. Repeat applications of
spray will be needed as long as the weather conditions
favor the development of the fungus.
Powdery m i l dew shows
up as a powdery white to
gray coating on leaves,
stems, and flower buds. It
attacks a wide variety of
plants, including beans,
clematis, dahlia, grape,
hydrangea. rose, strawber­
ry, tomato, clnd zinnia, as
well as apple, maple, oak,
peach, and sycamore trees.
Heavy infestations debili­
tate and disfigure plants.
Favored by moist air, poor
air circulation, and shade but needs dry leaves to
become established.
Controls To prevent powdery mildew, plant resistant
varieties and routinely spray plants with jets of water
to wash off fungus spores. I ncrease sunlight to plants
b y avoiding overcrowding. I n the fall, discard infected
flowers, fruits, and plants. Sulfur may help; on roses
and other flowering plants, try a baking soda and sum­
mer oil spray (see the preceding entry on black spot ) .
Some gardeners report success with anritranspirant
sprays sold to protect tender plants from cold. Such
sprays keep the surface temperature of treated leaves
somewhat higher than that of the surrounding air;
apparently they also prevent m ildew spores from
attaching to foliage. Chemical controls include tri­
forine and myclobutanil.
Root rots are caused by
fungi and are mostly active
in warm, wet, or poorly
drained soils. Young leaves
turn yellow and wilt; plants
may be stunted or may wilt
and die, even in moist soil.
Trees and sh rubs may die a
branch at a time.
Controls Plant resistant
varieties. Keep soils moist
but do not overwater.
Improve drainage. No
chemical management. Consult local cooperative exten­
sion service for additional information.
R u st is a fungus of many
different types, and each
type is specific to a certain
plant. Yellow, orange, red,
or brown pustules appear
on leaf undersides; the
powdery spores are spread
by wind and water.
Controls Buy resistant
varieties. Because rust
spreads fastest in wet con­
ditions ( leaves must be
wet for at least 4 to 5 hours for spores to germinate ) ,
you can minim ize spread b y curtailing overhead water­
ing. Remove and discard most affected leaves; dispose
of infected leaves that drop to the ground and clean up
all debris in fall. Sulfur and summer oil may help ( do
not apply them simultaneously; the combination is
toxic to plants ) . Chemical controls include
chlorothalonil, myclobutanil, triadi mefon, and triforine
(especially on roses ) .
Sooty m o l d i s caused b y a
number of different fungi.
This disease can afflict any
plant. It shows up as a
powdery dark brown or
black coating on leaves,
hence the name. The
responsible fungi live on a
plant's natural secretions and on the honeydew excret­
ed by aphids, mealybugs, and scale. While fairly harm ­
less on its own, sooty mold may weaken a plant if C0111-
bined with extensive insect damage.
Controls Reduce the population of honeydew-excreting
insects. Rinse small, o rn amental plants by hand; hose
down larger infected areas (such as trees or expanses
of ground covers ) . There is no chemical control.
CONTRO L L I N G WEEDS
Weeds are wild plants ( and some invasive cultivated
plants, like bamboo, English ivy, and honeysuckle) that
compete with your garden plants for water, nutrients,
and space. They're inevitable, but you can manage
them . Prevention through mulches, landscape fabrics,
and blanketlike ground covers is the first line of
defense. Hand-weeding before weeds set seed is also
critical. If you're vigilant for a few years, you'll be
rewarded with a sharp decline in your garden's weed
population.
Because they develop extensive root systems, perenn ial
MANAGING GARDEN PESTS 421
Two common weeds often require repeated treatments to eliminate; they with fertilizers, which increase the
are yellow nutsedge (left) and bindweed (right). vigor of the lawn a n d i m p rove its
ability to compete against weeds.
weeds are more diffi cult to manage after they've grown ( S uch dual-purpose prod ucts
past the seedling stage-to get rid of the plant, you have should not be treated solely as fer­
to dig out the roots. Hasten their demise by repeatedly tilizers and reapplied whenever
cutting back the tops, which stresses the plants, but it the lawn needs feeding-for that
may take several seasons to eradicate the weeds. Annual p urpose, use a regular lawn fer-
weed seeds can be windborne or delivered b y birds, tilize L ) Some p re-emergence
arrive in n u rsery containers, or be present i n certain prod ucts must be watered into
mulches ( so use only mulches that are weed- free) . the soil, while others are
Herbicides are powerful chemicals that can dam­ incorporated i n to it. Some
age desirable plants and contaminate water and soil. may also harm seeds you sow
Before buying one, always read the label to ensure later i n the season. Check
you have the correct product for the weeds in your the label to learn how long
garden. the product remains active
Herbicides are classified according to what in the soil.
stage of weed growth they affect, as well as by
bow they damage weeds. Posternergence herbi­
c i des act on growing
Pre-emergence herbicides work by inhibiting weeds rather than on
tbe growth of germ inating weed seeds and seeds. They damage
very young seedlings; they d o not affect plants in different
establisbed plants. To be effective, they ways. Those that are
m ust be applied before the seeds sprout. translocated must
Before applying these chemicals in orna­ be absorbed by tbe
mental gardens, remove any existing
weeds. Some p re-emergence products Simple hand
are formulated to k i ll germi - cultivators remain
n ating weeds in lawns; these the best all-round
may be sold i n combination weed control.

422 PLANT MAINTENANCE ANO CARE

plant through its leaves or stems; they then kill it
by interfering with its metabolism. Conract herbi­
cides kill only the planr parts on which they are
sprayed; regrowth can still occur from roots or
unsprayed buds.
When using any herbicide, read the
label directions carefully and follow
them exactly. The package wiU
dearly state the weeds that the
product conrrols and the other
plants, i f any, around which it can
be safely used; it is illegal to apply
it to any plam not designated as a
target. Always dispose of
pesticides in a safe manner.
The foUowing products are listed
alphabetically by the accepted common
nanle of the active ingredienr- the actual
chemical that conrrols the weed or weeds
NATU RAL H E R B I C I D E S
Common natural herbicides include the following:
CORN GLUTEN MEAL (SUPPRESSA, OTHERS) Pre-emergence. Used
to control some germinating weed seeds in lawns. This product is
also a fertilizer, serving to thicken lawns and thus suppress weed
growth (some research shows that this may be its primary contribu­
tion to weed control).
SYNTH ETIC H E R B I C I D ES
Common synthetic herbicides include the following:
FlUAZIFOP-BUTYl Postemergence. A translocated herbicide that
controls actively growing grasses. Can be sprayed over many
broad-leaved ornamentals without damaging them; check the label.
GlUFOSINATE-AM MONIUM (FINALE) Postemergence. Contact herbi­
cide that damages or kills many kinds of weeds. Take care not to
apply to desirable plants.
GlYPHOSATE (ROUNDUP) Postemergence. Translocated herbicide
that kills or damages any plant it contacts. Effective on a broad
range of troublesome weeds, but must be used with care to avoid
contacting desirable plants.
ORYZALIN (SURFlAN) Pre-emergence. Used to control annual
grasses and many broad-leaved weeds in warm-season turf grass­
es and in gardens.
listed on the package label . Some widely used trade
names, if they di ffer from the common name, are
noted in paremheses. Before you buy, read the
label to make sure you're getting the active ingre­
dient you want.
Synthetic herbicides are manufactu red com­
-
pounds that don't normally occur in nature.
Natural herbicides are products whose active
ingredients originate in a plant or mineral .
One-gallon pressure sprayer is commonly used
10apply herbicides.
HERBICIDAL SOAP (SUPERFAST, OTHERS) Postemergence. Contact
herbicide that degrades Quickly. Kills top growth of young, actively
growing weeds; works most effectively on annual weeds. Made from
selected fatty acids (as are insecticidal soaps).
PENDIMETHALIN (PROWL) Pre-emergence. Used to control many
grasses and broad-leaved weeds in turf and in ornamental plant­
ings. Toxic to fish.
SETHDXYDIM (GRASS-GETTER) Postemergence. Translocated herbi­
cide that controls many grasses growing in ornamental plantings;
check the label.
TRIClOPYR (BRUSH-B-GON, TURFlON ESTER) Postemergence.
Translocated herbicide. Depending on formulation, used on cool­
season turf to control broad-leaved weeds and Bermuda grass; also
used to control hard-to-kill woody plants. Use with care to avoid
damaging desirable plants.
TRIFlURAllN: Pre-emergence. Controls many grasses and broad­
leaved weeds in turf and ornamental plantings. Toxic to fish.
MANAGING GARDEN PESTS 423
 Index
P;'lge numbers in italic ind icate photographs archit'ccts and designers, 170- 1 7 1 Berbens thunbergii (Japanese barberry), 320,
.md ill uslrarions. Arc/Jol1/ophoenix ClIl1llingbamiallo (king palm), 320
3 1 6, 3 1 7 , 3 1 7 Bergel1la, 348
A rctostaphyLus spp. (bearberry, manzanira), berms and mounds, 209
A 1 83 , 190, 1 9 l , 334, 334 Bermuda grass, 344, 4 1 1
Abe;'" grnm"llora (glossy abelia). 320 Ilrctotbeca calendula (cape weed), 3 34 Beschorneria yuccoides, 1 9 1
Abies collcolor (white fir), 3 1 4, 3 1 4 ArrbcllalbemfJl eta/ius bllibowm (bulbous oat Betula
llccenrs, 162 grass) , 3 7 4 nigra (river birch), 33, 1 4 1, 1 98 , 3 1 0
il(cessories ,mel ornaments, 12-1. 3 . 290-291 Artemisia (wormwood), 1 55) 348 pendula ( European white birch), 3 1 0
Acer (l11aple), 1 7 anist's gardcns, 52-53 biennials, 3 5 8-359, 365
circinolllnl (vine maple), 189 '/hclepias II/berom (butterfly weed), 1 8 3 , 348, birch. See Betula (birch)
grt�'iellm ( paperbark maple), 1 97 3 77 birds
/lalma/lIn! (Japanese m,lpie), 15, 2 1 , 30, ash, 3 11 bi rdhouses, 294-295
179, 189, 3 1 0 Asian·style gardens, 21, 30-3 1 , 122 feeders and seed, 292-293
rubmm (red maple), .3 L O AspLenium blllbl/erum (mother rern ) , 1 79 landscaping for, 1 4 - 1 5 , 58-59, 182-183
Achillea (yarrow), 65, 1 8 1 , 1 8 3 . 3 32, 348 A.rter providing water, 294
acid soil, 3 0 3 ameLLu.r ( Italian asrer)' 1 8 3 bishop's hat, 189, 197
!ldianlum pee/atum (maidenhair Fern ) , 197 jiikartli 1 99 bishop's weed, 3 3 4
adobe, 91, 102-103 IIovae-flllgliae (Ncw England asrcr), 348, black· eyed Susan, 3 4 6, 3 5 2 , 352, 3 7 7
l1egopodiun! poc/agmria (bishop '$ weed), 3 3 -l 348 black·eyed Susan vine. 3 6 2 . 362
Aescuilis Cllmen (red horsechestnud. 3 1 0 !l.rtilbe (false spiraea), 1 89, 348 black spot, 420--12 1
African corn lilv, 370 Athyrium spp., 1 9 5 , 197 blanket flower, 5 1 , 65, 1 83 , 3 50 , 350
African daisy. 50 . 3 3 7 . 3 3 7 I-\ucub(/ japonic(/ Uapanese aucuba), 320 bleeding heart, 50. 57, 189, 1 97 , 349, 349
AgapalltiJlls (Iily·of·the·Nile), 203 autumn fern, .1 97 blood meal, 398
Agastacbe rupe.rtris (gianr hyssop ) . 183 axis, 162 bluebeard. 3 2 1
Agave spp., 21. 47, 64, 192 azalea, 1 4 7, 1 8 1 , 189, 1 97 . 326 bluebells. 5 7
Ageratum boustolliollllm ( floss flower), 360, blueberry, 1 84 , 1 8 7
360 blue blossom. 1 9 1
Agrosti� slalom/era (creeping benr grass), 344, B blue fescue, 199, 3 3 5 , 3 7 3 , 374-375
344 baby's brearh, 3 5 0 blue flax, 3 7 7
Ajuga reptalls (carpet bugle), 3 34 , 334 baby's tears, 337 blue gramma grass, 3 4 4
Akebta quiuat" (fiveleaf akebia), 330 bachelor's button, 363 bluegrass, 345, 345
Alb!'"" julibrissen (silk tree). 3 10 backyard gym project, 270-27 1 blue Iyme grass. 375
Alcea I'osea ( h ollyhock), 1 8 1 . 365. 3 65 bactericides. 4 1 9 blue oar grass, 3 7 5 , 3 7 5
AlclJClnil!1/ llIollis ( lady's m,mrle), 15, 57, 60, Bahia grass, 3 4 5 blue star creeper, 3 7 3
97, 348, 348 Baileya llZulliradiata (desert marigol d ) , 192 bolts, 7 9
alkaline soil, 303 balance, landscape principle, 87 borers 4 1 6
Alfamanda co/bartlca (comlllon aUamanda), 203 ballecl·and·burlap plants, selecting and �
borrO\ 'ed scenery, 1 63
AlliulII (ornamental onion), 368, 368 planting, 307 Boston ivy, 328, 3 3 1
Il/opecurus pm/ellsis (foxtail grass) , 374, 374 bamboo Bougail7viilea, 1 9 1 , 3 30, 3 3 0
Alpillia zerumbet (shell ginger), 203 gates and fences, 3 1 , 1 22 Bouteloua graciLis (blue gramma grass), 344
alyssum, 60, 1 07, 1 8 3 , 3 6 1 goldcn, 203 boxwood, 138, 1 79, 320
/lmal'yl"s belladOilna (belladonn" lily), 368 heavenly, 3 2 5 brick, 96-99
Amelollcbier spp. (serviceberry), 183, 3 L O bamboo p a l m , 3 1 7 curting, 2 3 3
amethyst flower, 360 b,mana, flowering, 203 edges for paths and patios, 92-93
Anemone (anemone), 179, 368, 368 banana shrub, 2 0 1 laying in sand, 2 3 3
angel's trumpet, 62 barbecue griJls, 280-2 8 1 patios, 9 1 , 2 3 2
annllal flowers, 3 5 8-364. See also specific barberry, 1 3 9, 320, 320 patterns, 9 9
annuals bare- root plants, selecring and planting, 307 sizes, 98-99
planting, 3 5 8-359 basil, 49, 384, 3 8 5 steps, 1 1 1 , 2 3 9
sampler of, 3 60-364 batter gauges, 23 1 types of, 96-97
using, 3 5 8 bayberry, 324 walls, 124, 127, 1 2 7, 1 3 7
anth racnose, 420 beans, 1 84, 382. 382 13riztt media (quaking grass), 374
Alltirrbillum majuJ (snapdragon), 3 6 3 , 363 bearberry, 1 8 3 , 190, 3 3 4 , 334 broccoli , 383
aphids, 4 1 6 beard tongue, 3 5 2 , 3 7 7 Browallta (amethyst flower), 360
apple, 184, 198, 3 1 2 , 3 7 2 bear's foot hellebore, 1 89, 197, 1 99 bubble diagrams, 1 57
Aquilegla (columbine), 1 89, 348, 348. 376 beebalm, 3 5 1 , 35 1 Buchloe dactyloides (buffalo grass), 344, 344
arborists, 1 7 1 beecles, 4 1 6, 4 17 Buddlela spp. (butterfly bush), 1 8 1 , 192, 194,
arbors, 9 , 7 0, 1 1, 12, 1 4 , 1 5 , 1 9, 22, 24, 35, 39, ,beets, 184, 383 320, 320
44, 94, 97, 99, 147. 149 Begol1la, 1 9 5 , 368 buffalo grass, 344, 344
building instructions, 1 3 1 , 254-255 belladonna lily, 368 bugs, 4 1 4-4 1 7
designing, 1 2 8- 1 3 1 , 166, 167 bellflower, 1 8 1 . 349 building codes, 1 5 1 . 206
arborvitae, 3 1 5 bdls·of-Ireland, 1 8 1 building permirs, 1 5 1 . 206
Arbutus menziesii ( Ill a drone), J.89 belvederes. See gazebos bulbous oat grass, 374

424 LOWE'S COMPLETE GUtOE TO LANDSCAPING

bulbs. 1 8 1 , 3 66-3 7 1 . See also specllic bulbs Chamaedorea spp. (bamboo palm), 3 1 7 cont ractors, hiring, 170- 1 7 1 , 206
burning bush, 323, 323 Chomtlellle/um nobile (chamomile), 3 3 4 contracts, 207
Butia capilala (pindo palmi, 203 Cbamaerops hun"hs ( Europe.m fan palm), 3 1 6, cook's garden, 48-19
butterflies, 59, 59, 182-183 317 conti bells. 1 95 . 1 97 . 1 99. 350
butterfly bush, 1 8 1 . 192, 194. 320, 320 chamomile, 3 3-t Cordvlille olls/mlis (dracaena), 1 9 1
butterfly weed. 1 8 3 . 348. 377 chaparral phlntS, 379 coreopsis. 14, �6
BuxlIJ microphylla (japanese bm.\\'ood), 320 Cbasmal1//;ium /at/folium (se�1 O,l[S), 37.t annual. 360
chaste tree. 181 perennial. 1 8 1 . 1 99, 349. 349
Chelollc obhqutl ( rurtleheadl. 183 corkscrew willow. 1 8 1
C cherry. !lowering, 1 8 1 . 187. 189. 3 1 3 corn, 184. 382
cabbage, 383, 3 3 Chihuahuan s.lge. 1 92 Comus (dogwood)
cabbage palm, 203. 3 1 7 children. See family-cemered landscaping florida ( flowering dogwood ). 1 8 1 . 3 1 1 . 3 I I
cactus, 58, 192 chinch bugs, � I I koma, 1 8 1
Caesolpinia mex;cono ( iV lexican bird of Chinese fan palm, 3 1 7 stololllfern ( redtwig dogwood), 1 8 3 . 3 2 1 ,
paradise), 192 Chinese fringe Rower, 32� 32 1
Calodium, 50, 63, 368 Chinese hollv. 323-324 Corladeria sel/ofllla (yellow pampas grass), 3 7�
Colamagrostis Delli/flora (feather reed grass), Chinese jasll1ine, 3 3 1 , 33 I COJIIIOJ, 1 6, 32, 1 8 1 . 360. 360
3 73, 374 Chinese pistache. 3 1 2 - 3 1 3 COlillllJ coggygria (smoke tree), 321
Calendula offiCillalis (calendula), 363, 363 Chinese wisteria, 1 12, .. 33 1 Cotoneaster spp. (cotoneaster), 322, 322, 3 3 5 ,
California fuchsia, 191 Clutalpa ttlshkelltellSis khitalpa), 3 t 1 335
California lilac, 32 1 , 32 1 chives, 385 cortage gardens. ��-I5, 98
California poppy, 55, 65, 363. 376 Christmas rose, 199 cotronsecd meal, 398
calla lily, 3 7 1 Ch l1lsall/hemum courtyard gardens, 40-1 1 . �2, 50
Col/frteman a/rinu! (lemon bonJebrush) , 320, 'cocelllelllll (painted daisy), 349. 3� 9 crabapple. 1 98. 3 1 2 . 3 1 2
320 pt1ludosulJ/ ( miniature marguerite). 363 crabgrass. 4 1 1
Calluna vulgaris ( heather), 320, 334, 33� partheJ7//lfI/ ( feverfew)' 1 8 1 cranberry bush, 1 99
Camellia spp., 179, 320 cinquefoil, 3 2 6 . 326, 337 cranesbill, 1 55, 179, 336, 3 5 0
Campanula (bellflower), 1 8 1 Cmlls ( rockrosel. 32 1 crape myrtle, 1 1 7, 1 38, I�O, 3 12 , 3 1 2
carpalica (Carpathian bellflowerl. 349 Cllrus, 3 1 4 Cralaegus (hawthorn), 58, 3 1 1 , 3 1 1
medium ( Canterbury bells). 365, 365 Ciclllalis spp . . 1�3, 330, 330 creeping bem grass, 344. 34�
Campsis tagliabuana ( t rumper creeper), ) 3 0 climate and plant selection, 298-299. See a/so creeping zinnia, 362
Canary Island date palm, 3 1 7 . 3 1 7 microciimaces creosote bush. 1 92
candytufr, 3 64 coffeeberr \', 1 9 1 Crillum asialicum (grand crinum), 201
Canna, 63, 203 Colchicum- SpeciOSll1l1, 199 crocosmia. 1 8 1
Canterbury bells, 365, 365 coleus, 50, 195. 203. 288 Crocus spp. (crocus), 199, 368, 368
cape weed, 3 3 4 Colorado blue spruce. 3 1 5 , 3 1 5 cucumbers, 382
Carex spp. (sedge), 1 8 9 , 3 7 4 , 37� columbine, 1 89. 348, 348, 376 Cllphea byssoPllolio U"lexican heather), 203
Cariss gralldi/lora (Natal plum), 3 2 1 comfon, designing (or, 1 0- 1 1 Cupressocypflri.r leY/flndii (Leyland cypress),
Carmel creeper, 3 34 compost and composting. 393-395 3 14
Carolina jessamine, 3 3 0 , 330 compost bins, 268-269, 39�, 395 CupressllS arizonica ( Arizona cypress) , 3 1 4
Carpathian bellflowet, 349 computer-aided design. 1 7 1 cutting garden plan, 180- 1 8 1
carpet bugle, 3 34, 33� concrete block walls, 124. 125. 126. 126, 127, Cycos revolllla (sago palmI. 203
carrotS, 184, 383 127. 228-229, 23 1 CYllodon daclyloll (bermuda grass) , 344. 4 ] I
Caryopleris clondonensis (bluebeardl. 3 2 1 concrete, cast cyp ress, 3 1 �
catch basins, 2 1 1 , 2 1 1 edges for paths and patios, 92, 93
caterpillars, 4 1 6 finishes. 103, 223, 227, 227
COlharon/hus rDSetiS (Madagascar periwinkle), foundationsffootings, 124, 226 D
360, 360 mixing, 222-223 daffodils and narcissus, 1 8 1 , 199, 370
catmint, 45, 60, 1 06, 3 5 1 paths, 102-103 DaMn, 1 8 1 , 369
cattail, 1 8 3 patios, 91, 222, 224-225 dame's rocket, 183
Ceanolhus spp., 1 9 1 , 3 2 1 , 3 2 1 , 3 3 4 pouring a slab, 224-225 dandelion, 4 1 1
cedar, 3 1, 190, 3 1 4, 3 1 4 safety, 207 Daphne spp., 197, 2 0 I , 322
Cedrus spp. (cedar), 3 1, 190, 3 1 4, 3 1 4 steps, 239 date palm, 203, 3 17
Celosia argentea (celosia), 360 surface treatments, 102, 103 daylily, 2 0 1 , 350, 350
cement, 207, 223 tools, 225 deadheading, 347
Centaurea cyanus ( bachelor's button), 363 concrete pavers, 91, 100-1 01, 100- 1 0 1 , dead nettle, 336, 3 3 6
centipede grass, 344 232-233 decks, 3 1, 7 1
coneflower, 1 6, 51, 58, 155, 1 8 1 , 1 87, 346, 350, building instructions for basic, 234-235
Ceratosligma plumbagi1lOides (dwarf
350 cleaning, 236, 237
plumbago), 3 3 4
conifers. See evergreens construc[ion basics, 74-75
Cercidium spp. (palo verde), 192
Consollda ambigllo (larkspur), 1 55, 1 8 1 , 363 designs, 72-73
Cercis canadensis (eastern redbud), 3 1 0, 3 1 0
container gardening, 72, 50-5 1 , 194-195 finishing and preserving, 79, 236, 237
Chaenomeles (flowering quince), 32 1 , 3 2 1
container nursery plants, seJecting and hardware, 78-79
chairs, selecting outdoor, 274-277
planting, 306 lighting, 80, 8 1
Chamaecyparis obtusa (hinoki cypress) , 194

INDEX 425
 Index
lumber choices, 76-77 Escallonia exoniellsis (cscaUonia), 322 Aoss flower, 360, 360
railings, 80, 8 1 , 81 Eschscbolzia call/onuca ( California poppy), 55, flowering quince, 3 2 l , 321
steps, 1 1 0- 1 1 1 65, 363, 376 /:lowering tobacco, 3 6 1
Vii. parios, 70 Eucalyptus, 3 1 4 focal points, 1 63
decorative detai.ls, 1 2 - 1 3 , 290-291 EuonYllltis footings and foundations, 1 2 4 , 226
deer grass, 289 alata (burning bush), 3 2 3 , ]23 forget-me-not, 364, 364
Delosperllla (ice plant), 3 3 5 , 3 3 5 fortunei (wintercreeper), 3 3 5 formal gardens, 28-29
Delpi.uiliunt datuIJI, .349 japonicus (evergreen euonymus), 322-323 Forsythia spp., 1 8 1 , 3 2 3 , 323
deodar cedar, 190, 3 1 4, 3 1 4 Eupatorium rugOSlllll, 1 9 7 fountain grass, 187, 1 9 5 , 3 73, 375
desert garden, 1 92- 1 9 3 Euphorbia, 1 8 9 four o'clock, 2 0 1
desert ironwood, 1 9 2 European fan palm, 3 1 6, 3 17 foxglove, 47, 1 8 1 , 3 6 5 , 365
desert marigold, 1 9 2 evaporranspiration (ET), 407 foxtail grass, 374, 374
design. See bndscape design evergreen huckleberry. 1 9 1 Fraga!'ia (strawberry), 1 87
detharching and aerating lawns, 4 1 2-4 1 3 evergreens. See also speczfic evergreens fragrant garden, 200-201
Dculzia gracilis, 322 , 322 dwarf conifers, 12, 60, 6 1 framing connectors, 78, 78-79
Dianthus spp., 45, 50, 1 8 1 , 349, 365 pruning, 402-403 Fraxinus pennsylvanica (green ash), 3 1 1
Dicentra spp. (bleeding heart), 50, 57, 189, saillpler of, 3 14-3 1 5 FreeSta, 369 , 369
197, 349, 349 Fremantodendron (Danne! bush), 1 9 1 , 379, 3 79
Digital,,' purpurea ( foxglove), 47, 1 8 1 , 3 6 5 , 365 fungicides, 4 1 9
di.II, 385 F furniture, selecting outdoor, 80, 274-277
dining outdoors fairy rings, 4 1 1
barbecue grills, 280-281 false spiraea, 189
dining spaces. 1 0, 1 1, 22, 38, 70, 7 1 , 82, family-centered landscaping G
83, 84, 88-89, 129, 1 30, 222 building a backyard gym, 270-27 1 Gaillardia (blanker 80wer), 51, 65, 1 8 3 , 3 5 0 ,
outdoor kitchens, 88, 89, 282-283 designing for family activities, 34-35 350
diseases, prevention and control. 4 1 8-4 2 1 family garden plan, 186-187 Galanthus nivaiis (snowdrop), 57, 369, 369
dividing perennials. 347, 347 play areas, 1 1 2- 1 1 3 Calium adoratum (sweet woodrufD, 189, 3 3 5
Dodonaea v/:rcosa (hop bush), 322 fan pal Ill , 63, 3 1 6, 3 1 7 Gaiph,,,tia glauca (shower of gold), 203
dogwood. See Comus (dogwood) feather grass, 373, 375, 375 Gardellla spp. (gardenia), 2 0 1 , 323, 323
Douglas fir, 57, 189 feather reed grass, 373, 374 gates, 9, 12, 3 1, 39, 4 1 , 44, 122-123, 244-247
Dracaeno margillota, 203 fences, 1 1 8- 1 2 1 , 1 66 Gaultheria procumbens (wintergreen) , 197
drainage, 210-2 1 1 , 302 in Asian-style gardens, 3D, 3 1 gayfeather, 1 8 3 , 3 5 1
drip irrigation systems, 2 1 2-2 1 4 , 2 1 7 , 2 1 8-219, basic board, building instructions, Gazania rigens leucolael1o {trailing gazania},
391 240-241 3 3 5-336
Dryopteris spp. (woodfern) , 1 9 5 , 197 lattice, building instructions, 242 gazebos (summerhouses, belvederes), n, 104,
dry wells, 2 l l , 2 1 1 pans of, 1 2 0 1 08, 128- 1 3 1 , 1 3 2 - 1 3 3
OuciJesnea indica (Indian mock strawberry), picket, 9 , 1 6, 44, 1 1 9, 1 2 1, 146 Getsemillm sempervirens (Carolina jessamine),
335 regularions regarding, 120 330, 330
dust masks, 207 sening posts, 241 Geranium ( cranesbill), 1 55, 3 3 6 , 3 5 0
Dutch hyacinth, 369, 369 split-rail. 27, .1 1 9 geranium (Pe/argonium), 4 3 , 1 07, 1 8 1 , 1 8 7 ,
dymondia, 53 styles, 1 2 1 1 95 , 2 0 1
wood and wire, building instructions, 243 germander, 1 9 1
ferns, 20, 62, 179 , 189, 1 95 , 1 97 germander sage, 1 9 1
E fertilizers and fertilizing, 396-399. 409, GeluJl (prairie smoke), 1 8 1 , 379
Echiuacea (coneflower), 1 6, 5 1, 58, 155, 1 8 1 , 409-4 1 0 ginger lily, 20 l
187, 346, 350, 350 fescue. See Festuca ( fescue) Ginkgo bi/aba (ginkgo), 3 1 1 , 3 1 1
edges for paths and patios, 92-93 Feltuca (fescue) gladiolus, 1 8 1 , 369, 3 69'
edible landscape plan, 184-185 llrundinllcea (tall fescue), 3 3 8, 344, 344 Gleditsia t.riconthos il1 enm�r (holleylocusr), 1 8 3 ,
Elaeagnus glauca (blue fescue), 199, 3 3 5 , 373, 311
angusti/olia (Russian olive), 3 1 1 374-3 7 5 globe amaranth, 360
pllligem (silverberry), 322 rubra ( fine fescue), 344-345 globe maliow, 193
Eleutherococc-us sieboldianus (five-leaf aralia), feverfew, 1 8 1 gloriosa daisy, 51, 1 8 1
183 Ficus s p p . (fig), 63, 179, 203 , 3 3 0 goldband Japanese sedge, 374, 374
English ivy, 336, 336 fig, 63, 179, 203, 3 3 0 goldenrain (ree, 3 1 1-3 1 2
English laurel, 326 lif. S e e Abiel golden rrumpet tree, 203, 3 1 3
Enklanthus, 189 fireplaces, 9, 83, 85, 88, 89, 222 Gomph,ena (globe amaranth), 360
entryways, 1 9, 24-25, 29, 55, 83, 102 fire safety, 65-67 grading, 208-209
Epimedium spp. (bishop's hat), 189, 197, 3 3 5 , firethorn, 326, 326 grape hyacinrh, .370
335 fish eilluision and pellets, 398 grapes, 147, 1 8 1 , 184
Eremocbloa opbiuroides (centipede grass), 344 five-leaf aralia, ] 83 grapevine, ornamental, 195
Erica (heath), 322, 322 flagstones, 19, 95, 106- 1 07, 227, 229, 248-249 grasses, ornamental, 1 7, 21, 51, 64, 372-373,
Eriogonum crocn/tlm (saffron buckwheat), 1 9 1 flannel bush, 1 9 1 , 379, 379 379. See also specljzc grasses
Eriopbyllulll nevinil� 1 9 1 flax, 2 1, 3 7 7 grasses, turf. See lawns
Erodium reicbarclii (cranesbill), 179 800rs, outdoor, 168-169 gravel paths, 27, 32, 94, 105, 249

426 LOWE'S COMPLETE GUIDE TO LANDSCAPING

ground covers qllerci/ob" (oakleaf hydrangeal. 97, 197. Jill/lperus spp. ( j u niper). 324. 32{ 3 3 6
planting and maimen<1nce, 332-.3 3 3 1 98, 32 3 . 3 2 3 jll!Jlietl spicigera ( Mexican honeysuckle), 192
roses, 3 5 6 serraltl, 1 9 -4
sampler, 33�-337 hydrozones. 2 1 3
grubs, lawn, -4 1 1 Hypericum ea/ycilllllJl (Sr. Johnsworr), 1 97 , 3 3 6 K
gum, 3 1 � hyssop. 1 83 blanchoe. 5 3
Gymnocladus dioca ( Kemucky coffee tree), 1 97 F\tllmit1 lallfo/1O (mountain laurel), 1 97
Gypsophila pallleulaia ( baby's brearhl. 350 Kentucky bluegrass. 3�5 . 345
Kentucky coffee free, 1 97
Iberir IIII/bellata (globe candytufr). 3M kids. See family-centered landscaping
H iceland poppy. 3M king palm. 3 1 6. 3 1 7 . 3 1 7
Halesia mon/icola (mountain silverbellL 1 8 1 ice plalll, 3 3 5 . 335 kirchens. ourdoor. 88. 89. 282-283
Hamamelis in/ermedia (witch hazel). 198, 323 lIex spp . . 25, 138 Koe/reu/erio pal/iell/alll (goldenrain tree),
Hardenbergia violacea, 330. 3 3 1 camilla (Chinese holly). 323-32� 3 1 1-3 1 2
hardware, deck, 7 , 78-79 meserveae ( evergreen hotty), 198. 32-4 kohlrabi. �9
harlequin flower, 3 7 1 , 3 7 1 opaca ( American holly). 3 1 �
ha\\�horn, 58, 3 1 1 . 3 1 1, 326 Llerticillola (winterberry), 198, 32-4. 32.J
hearh, 322, 322 vOllliloria (yaupon), 179, 32-4 L
heather, 203, 33�. 334 Impaliells. 20, 1 79. 1 8 7 . 1 9 5 . 203, 288, 36 1 . lacewings, 4 1 7
Hedera helix ( English ivy), 328, 336, 3 3 6 361 ladybugs. � 1 5, 4 1 7
hedges, 39 Imperato cy /indrica U a panese blood gnlss), 1 9 9 , lady fern. 195
defining spaces, 1 66, 167 375 , 3 75 lady palm, 3 1 7
formal, 28, 29 r ndian grass, 199 lady's mantle. 15. 57, 60. 97, 348. 348
for privacy, 1 3 7 - 1 3 9 Indian mock strawberry. 335 Lagerslroemia indica (crape myrtle), 1 1 i, 1 38,
rose, 1 3 9 , 3 5 6 insecticides, -4 1 5 140. 3 1 2 . 3 1 2
shearing, �05 insects Iamb's ears. 189. 194. 3 5 3
Hedyehium eoronarium (common ginger lily), beneficial, � 1 7 Lamium maw/tllUm (dead nenle), 336, 336
201 pests. � 1 6--4 1 7 landscape design. 1�4- 1 7 5
Helian/hemuln, 332 integrared pest management (!PM). � 1 �--4 1 5 basic decisions, 146-1�9
Heliallihus alllluus (sunflower), 1 8 3 . 1 8 5 , 360 Ipomoea /rieolor ( morning glory), .J5, 3 6 1 computer software. 1 7 1
Helichrysum brae/ea/lim (strawflower), 3 6 1 Iris, 56, 1 8 1 . I 7 . 369-370. 370 crearing rooms, 38-.39, 166-169
He/ieonia psiltaeorum ( parrot heliconial. 203 crislala (crested iris), 197 do-ir -yourself. 174- 1 7 5
Helietotriehon sempervirens (blue oat grass), douglaSlana hybrid, 3 7 6 drawing rhe plan. 150. 1 56-159
375, 375 D ur ch, 65, 1 8 1 hiring professionals. I70- I 7 1 . 206. 207
heliopsis, 46, 1 8 1 palltda ( Dalmatian iris). 197 principles, 85-87. 1 6 0- 1 63
heliotrope. 1 8 1 slbiric(l (Siberian iris), 1 89 sire analysis, 1 50- 1 5 5
Helleborus spp. (hellebore), 1 9 1 . 197, 199, 350 teelorulJI (japanese roof iris), 1 97 staking o u t t h e design. 172-173
Hemerocallis (daylilyl. 201. 350, 350 irrigation systems, planning and installation rerms. 1 62- 1 63
hen-and-chickens, 60 drip. 2 1 7 . 2 1 8-2 19, 3 9 1 tricks, 1 6�- 1 65
herbicides, 422--423 misters, 2 1 9 landscape fabrics. 393
herbs, 48-49, 1 84 . 1 90- 1 9 1 , 38�-385 planning. 2 1 2-2 1 � landscape plans. 1 7 6-203
Herperis malronalis (dame's rocker ) . 1 8 3 sprinkler. 2 1 5-2 1 7 . 407-408 Alabama fragrance garden, 200-201
Heleromeles arbuli/olia (royon), 1 9 1 rimers. 2 1 3 . 2 1 5 Arizona desert landscape. 192-193
Heuchera s p p . ( coral bells), 1 9 5 , 1 9 7 , 199, 3 50 ivy, �3, 328. 3 3 1. 336. 336 California hillside garden. 190- 1 9 1
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, 203. 323 Ixia moculala ( African corn lily), 370 Florida tropical garden, 202-203
hillsides. See slope I llinois all-season garden. 198-199
hinoki cypress, 19� Missouri edible landscape. 184-185
Holdeman, Eric and Mary, 17�-175 J Northeast roofwp garden. 194-195
holly, 25, 1 38, 198, 3 1 �. 323-32� Japanese anemone. 179 Pennsylvania shade garden, 1 96-197
hollyhock, 1 8 1 , 365, 365 Japanese anise, 138 South Carolina side yard, 178-179
honeylocust, 1 8 3 , 3 1 1 Jllpanese aucuba, 320 Tennessee family garden, 1 86-187
honeysuckle. See Lonicera (honeysuckle) Japanese blood grass. 199. 375. 375 Virginia cutting garden. 1 80-- 1 8 1
hop bush, 322 Japanese boxwood, 179, 320 WashingwI1 native plant garden, 1 88-189
horsechestnut, 3 I O Japanese holly. 25 \Xlisconsin wildlife garden. 182-183
horsetail, 63 Japanese maple. 15, 2 1 . 30, 1 79, 189, 3 1 0. 3 1 0 landscape professionals, hiring, 1 70-1 7 1 , 206,
horticulwrists, 1 7 1 Japanese painted fern, 1 95 , 1 97 207
hoses, 389, 390 Japanese pieris, 325. 325 Lantana monlevidensis, 336
Hosta spp. (plantain lily), 50, 57, 97, 3 5 1 , 3 5 1 Japanese spurge. 179, 1 89. 199, 3 3 7 . 3 3 7 larkspur, 1 55, 1 8 1 , 363
i n landscape plans, 1 8 1 , 1 87 , 1 89. 195, jasmine, 179, 33 1 , 3 3 1 Ltlrrea tridenl.ata (creosote bush), 1 92
1 97 , 2 0 1 jasminum polyan /hemum (jasmine), 179, .3 3 1 . latches, 246, 247, 247
Howea 10S/eriana, 195 331 Lalhyrus odorata (sweer pea), 364. 364
Hyacinthus (Dutch hyacinth), 369, 369 Joe Pye weed, 346 lattice fence, 242
Hydrangea joints, wood furnirure, 277 laniee panels, 259. 259
macrophylla (big leaf, garden hydrangea), juniper, 324, 324, 336 lattice porch skirt, building inslructions,
179, 323

INDEX 427
 Index
258-259 M N
Lavandliia (lavender), 14, 2 7, 189, 1 9 1 , 194, Madagascar d ragon tree, 203 nail sizes, 78, 78
351 Madagascar periwinkle, 360, 360 Nandina domestica ( heavenly bamboo), 325
lavender, 7�, 2 7, 1 89, 1 9 1 , 194, 3 5 1 macirone, 1 89 Narcissus (daffodil, narcissus), 1 8 1 , 1 99, 370
lavender cotton, 106) 1 9 1 MagllOlia nasturtium, 195, 364
hlwllmowers, 408-W9 grandt/lora (Southern magnolia), 2 0 1 , 3 1 4, Natal plum, 3 2 1
lawns, 338-345, 406-4 1 3 3 1 4-3 1 5 native plants, 378-379. See also wildflower gar­
designing lawn areas, 168, 769, 3 3 8 soultlngiana (saucer magnolia), 1 90, 3 1 2 dens
dethatching a n d aerating, 4 1 2-4 1 3 Mabolllo aqul/aliu In (Oregon grape), 189, 197, in landscape plans, 1 88-189, 190- 1 9 1 ,
fertilizing, 409, 409-4 1 0 324 J 92-193
mowing and [rimming, 408-409 maiclen grass, 8, 372, 375 naturalizing bulbs, 367
plugs and sprigs, 343 maidenhair fern, 197 nature in the landscape, 14-15. See also
problems, 410-4 1 2 maintenance, minimizing, 32-33 wildlife
regional grass selections. 3 3 9 , 3 3 9 Malus, 184, 198, 3 1 2 , 3 1 2 nematodes, parasitic, 4 1 7
seeding, 340-342 Malva moschala (musk mallow), 1 8 3 Nemesio, 364
sod, 3 4 1 . 342 manzanita, 1 90 Nepela (catmint), 45, 60, 106, 3 5 1
turf grass sampler, 344-345 maple. See Acer (maple) Nerium oleander (oleander), 3 2 5
watering, 406-408 marguerite, 363 New England aster, 348, 348
leather leaf sedge, 374 marigold, 49, 1 87 , 362, 362 New Zealand flax, 2 1
legal considerations, 1 5 1 , 206 marjoram, 384, 385 NlcOlltIna alala (flowering robacco), 2 74, 3 6 1
lemon borrJebrush, 320, 320 Mattbiola incalla (srock), 364, 364 nursery stock, selecting a n d planting, 305-307
Lenten rose, 1 9 1 , 197, 199 meadow rue, 189 Nympbaea (water lily), 195
lerrllce, 383 Mediterranean fan palm, 63, 3 1 7 Nyssa sylvallca (tupelo), 3 12 , 3 1 2
Leucojum ae.rtivum (snowflake), 370, 370 Mediterranean-style gardens, 2 1, 40, 65
Lelicophyllul1l spp" 192 melons, 1 84, 3 82 , 382
Leucotboe walten; 197 Merlen"a (Virginia bluebell), 197, 3 5 1 o
Leymus arel10riuJ (blue lyme grass), 375 Mexican bird o f paradise, 192 oak, 1 8 7 , 197, 3 1 3 , 3 1 3, 3 1 5 , Also see Quercus
Llalris splcala (gayfeather), 1 8 3 , 3 5 1 Mexican heather, 203 oakJeaf hydrangea, 46, 97, 197, 198, 3 2 3 , 323
licorice plant, 274 Mexican honeysuckle, 1 92 oat grass, 374, 375, 375
lighting fixtures and techniques, 80, 81, Mexican poppy (Argemone), 54 oleander, 3 2 5
284-287 Michelia /lgp (banana shrub), 2 0 1 Olneva tesota (desert ironwood), 1 9 2
Ligustrum japoniclInt (wax leaf privet), 324, microclimates, 1 5 2- 1 5 3 , 299 ophiopogon, 203 , 3 3 7 , 3 3 7
324 Mimulus hybrids ( monkey flower), 3 6 1 , 3 6 7 Opunlia /lius-illdica ( prickly pear), 1 9 2
lilac, 1 8 1 , 1 89, 327, 327 mint, 385 oregano, 3 8 5
Liliulll (hybrid lilies), 1 .1 8, 199, 370, 370 Mirabilis;fdapa (four o'clock), 2 0 1 Oregon grape, 1 89, 1 97 , 324
lily-of-the-Nile, 203 Miscantbus sinensis (maiden grass, silver gnJss), organic mauer, adding to soil, 300-3 0 1
lilyturf, 33, 3 3 6-3 3 7 , 3 3 7 8, 194, 3 72, 3 7 5 ornamental onion, 368, 368
linden, 3 1 3 , 3 1 3 mi(es, 4 1 6 ornaments and accessories, 1 2- 1 3 , 290-291
LimoJl perelllle (blue flax ) , 377 mock orange, 1 8 1 , 3 1 9, 325, 325 Osmanthus /ragralls (sweet olive)) 3 2 5
Liquic/ambar styroCl/lua (sweet gum), 1 7, 3 1 2 Molina coeruleo (moor grass), 375 OSleospermum (African daisy), 50, 3 3 7 , 3 3 7
Lil'lodendroll lulipl/era (tulip tree), 197, 3 1 2 Moluccella laevis (bells-of-Ireland), 1 8 1 Oxalis (sorrel), 189, 4 1 1
Liriope [lily turf), 33, 336-337, 3 3 7 Monarda ,lid),,,," (beebalm), 3 5 1 , 351 Oxydendrum arboreum (sorrel tree), 1 8 1
Livistolla ciJillen.l'is (Chinese fan palm), 3 1 7 monclo grass, 203
Lobelltl erilllls, 364 money plant, 365
Labu/aria maritima (sweet alyssum), 1 83 , 3 6 1 monkey flower, 3 6 1 , 3 6 l p
LoLium perenne ( perennial ryegrass), 3 4 5 moor grass, 3 7 5 Pachysandra terminalis Oapanese spurge), 179,
London plane tree, 3 1 3 morning glory, 4 5, 3 6 L 189, 199, 3 3 7 , 3 3 7
LOllicera spp. (honeysuckle), 3 3 1 , 331. MoruJ alba 'Pendula' (weeping IT! ulberry), 187 Pachyslachys luletl (yelJow shrimp plant), 203
beckraltt!' (Goldflame honeysuckle), 1 8 1 , moss rose, 1 8 7 , 362 Paeonia (peony), 1 8 1 , 3 5 1 , 3 5 1
331 mother fe rn , 1 7 9 painted daisy, 3 4 9 , 349
;llponica (Japanese honeysuckle), 1 8 3 , 3 3 1 mounds and berms, 209 painted tOngue, 362
periclymenum (woodbine honeysuc.kJe), mountain ash, European, 183 paints and painting, 42, 52, 53, 276, 278-279
201 mountain laurd, 1 3 7, 197 palms, 63, 1 95 , 203 , 3 1 6-3 1 7
sempervirens (trumpet honeysuckle), 1 8 1 , mountain silverbell, 1 8 1 palo verde, 54, 192
187, 1 9 5 , 3 3 1 , 3 3 1 mowers, 408-409 pampas grass, 374
Loropetalum chillense (Chinese fringe flower), mowing strips, 33, 338 pansy, 3 64
324 Mucsari armeniacum (grape hyacinth), 370 Papaver
lot sizes ancl shapes, 156-159 Muhlenbergia capillaris (muhly grass), 373 nudicaule (iceland poppy), 364
love-in-a-misr, 55 )11Ulberry, 140, 1 87 orienlale (oriental poppy), 189, 352
I,"TIber, types and gracles, 76-77 mulches and mulching, 3 9 1-393 paperbark maple, 197
Lunarill aniwa ( money plant), 365 Musa coccinea (flowering banana), 203 Parney CQ(oneaster, 322
Illllgwort, 352 musk mallow, 183 parsley, 385
Lupinus albi/crons collinus (silver lupine), 1 9 1 tVlyosolis Iylvalica (forget-me-not), 364, 364 ParliJeliocisHls Iricuspidala (Boston ivy), 3 3 1
Myrica spp, (myrtle), 324 Paspalum spp" 345
myrtle, 57, 324 paths, 53, 94-109, 148

428 LOWE'S COMPLETE GUIOE TO LANOSCAPING

 brick, 25, 70, 95, 96-99 Pho/inio spp. (phorinia)' 1 3 7, 325 gazebos; trellises.: walls)
cast concrete, 102-103 Phyl/os/ncbys aurea (golden bCl11lboo), 203 using trees. 1 7 6, 140- 1 4 1
concrete pavers. 100- 1 0 1 Picea spp. (spruce), 194. 3 1 5 , 3 1 5 using vines, 1..J2-1�3
corrage g arden, -! 5 , -J 5 pickerel wced, 195 privet, wax leaf, 32�. 32-1
cur stone, 250 PierisjaponiclI Uapanese pieris), 325, 325 property analysis, l50-156
designing, 94-95, 1 62, 1 6.J, J 65 pilasters, 1 1 9 property deeds, 1 5 1 , 206
edges for, 92-93 pindo palm, 203 prop�Jrt ion, landscape principle, 86-87
flagstone, 1 9, 95, 106-107. 248-249, pine, See PillllS (pine) prunmg
248-249 Pine Hili llannel bush, 1 9 1 basic cuts, 404-405
gravel, 27, 32, 94, 105, 2.J9 pinks, 5 0 , 1 8 1 , 349 branch removal, 403
lighting, 284, 285, 286. 286 Pinus (pine), 1 4 / evergreens, �02-403
stepping-stones. 2 5 1 densiflora (Tanyosho pine). 198 ground covers, 3 3 3
stone, 106-107 llIugo mugo (mugho pine), 325, 325 growth buds and, 404-405
wood, 108-109 resinosa ( red pine), 183 perennials, 347, 347
wood chips and bark, 105-106 stroblls ( white pine), 187, 3 1 5 . 3 1 5 roses. 3 5 5 , 355
panos, 70-7 3 . 8 1 -93 tbllnbergii (Japanese black pine), 198. 3 1 5 , shrubs, 3 1 9, 3 1 9
brick, 86, 87, 232-233 315 trees, 67, 67, 400--105
cast concrete, 9 1 , 222, 22-1-225 waltichiana ( Himalayan pine), 1 8 1 vines, 329
concrete pavers, 232-233 Pistacia chinensis (Chinese pistache), 3 1 2-3 1 .3 why and when, �00-402
design, 72-7 3 , 82-87 Pittospomm tobira (robira), 325 Pnm us, 3 1 3
dining areas, 88-89 plans. See landscape design; landscape plans hlireialla (flowering plum), 189
edges, 92-93 plamain lily. See Hosta cer(w!ero (purpleleaf plum), .3 1 3
landscaping principles, 85-87 Pial/tolllls acel'l/olia (London plane tree), 3 1 3 laurocemslis (English laurel), 326
paving options. 90-91 plaming sargentii (Sargenr cherry), 187
small, 43 annuals, 358-359 ser/'lliata (japanese tlowering cherry), 189
steps, 1 l 0-l l l grass seed, plugs and sad, 340-343 subbirtella 'Aurumnalis' (Autumn Higan
stone, 71, 86, 9 1 ground covers, 322-3 3 3 cherry), 181
VS. decks, 70 perennials, 306, 3 3 6 Pseudotruga ( Douglas fir), 57, 189
pavers. See concrete pavers roses, 35�-355, 355 Pulmonaria OungwortL 352
paving choices, 90-91 rrees and shubs, 305-307 purpleleaf plum, 3 1 3
peace lily, 203 planring beds, 304-305 pussy willow, 1 8 1
pear, flowering, .3 1 3 plant -lover's gardens, -t6-l7 pygmy date palm, 3 17
peas, 3 8 3, 383 plasric edges for paths and parios, 93 Pyracantha ( firethorn ) , 326, 326
Pei4rgonium (geranium), 43, 107, 1 8 1 . 187, plastic mulch, 393 Pyrus callerytll1a (flowering pear), 3 1 3
195 , 2 0 1 pl a y areas. 1 1 2- 1 13
penetrating resins, 276 plumbago, dwarf, 33-!
Pennisetum (fountain grass), 187, 1 9 5 , 373, 375 plum, flowering, 1 89 Q
Penstemon spp., 54, 55, 60, 65, 1 9 1 , 289, 3 5 2 , Poa pratensis ( Kentucky bluegrass), 345 , 345 quaking grass, 374
377 Podocd/pur spp., 1 4 1 , 203, 326 queen palm, 3 1 7
peony, 1 8 1 , 3 5 1 , 3 5 1 Polygonatum ( Solomon's seal), J 89 Quercus spp., ) 1 3 , 3 1 3
peppers, 1 8 5 , 382 Polygonum aubertii (silver lace vine), 3 3 1 alba (white oak). 197, 3 1 3
perennial flowers, 346-.3 5 3 . See also specific polyurethane, 276 rub!"a ( red oak), 187
perennials POl/tederia cordata ( pickerel weed ), 1 95 virginiana (Southern live oak), 3 1 5
planting and caring for, 346-347 popp),, 55, 60, 64 quince, flowering, 3 2 1 , 32 .1
sampler of, 348-353 California, 55
perennial ryegrass, 345, 345 lceland, 364
periwinkle, 3 37, 360, 360 Mexican, 54 R
Perovskia a/riplia/olia ( Russian sage), 32, 346, Oriental, 189, 352 railroad ties and timbers
352, 3 52 Shi rley, 376 edges for paths and patios, 92
Persian shield, 50, 203 porch skirt, building instructions, 258-259 steps, 223, 238-239
pests, 4 1 4-423 Portulaca grandi/lora ( moss rose), 187, 362 raised beds, 49, 256
animals, 266, 4 1 8 posts, serting, 240, 24 1 building instructions, 266-267
diseases, 4 1 8-421 potato vine, 35 screening out gophers and ground squir-
Potentilto (cinq uefoil), 326, 326, 337 rels, 266
insecticides, 4 1 5
insects, 4 1 6-4 1 7 powdery mildew, 421 Ramlllcl/ius asialicus, 370-3 7 1 , 371
prairie plants, 379 raspberries, 181, 1 84
weeds, 421-423
Petunia hybrida (petunia), 50, 107, 187, 1 95 , prairie smoke, 379 redbud, Eastern, 3 1 0. 3 10
pre-cast piers, 2 3 5 red maple, 3 1 0, 3 10
3 6 1 , 361
prickly pear, 192 redwood, coast, 190, 3 1 5
Philadelphus
pride of Madeira, 65 regional landscape plans. See landscape plans
corol1arius (sweet mock orange), 1 8 1
primrose, 57, 3 5 2 rental yards, 207
virginalis (mock orange), 3 1 9, 325, 325
Prim"la (primrose), 57, 3 5 2 retaining walls, 125, 125, 1 55, 174, 209, 2 J 1
Phlox, 1 6, 46, 187, 332
privacy, 8-9, 1 1 6- 1 I 7 Rhamnus cali/ornico koffeeberry), 19 1
drummondil; 3 6 1
using shrubs, 136-139 RhaphioLepis indica (Indian hawthorn) . 32(1
panieulata, 183, 3 5 2, 352
using structures (See arbors; fences; Rhap,:r spp. (lady palm), 3 1 7
PhoeniX spp. (date palm), 203, 3 1 7, 3 1 7
 Index
Rhododendron spp .. 30, 147, 181, 1 87 , 189, saskatoon, 183 Sorbus aucuptlritl ( European mountain ash),
1 97 , 199, 326, 326 Scabiosa, 45, 199 183
rock gardens, 60-6 1 Scaevola, 195 Sorgbtlstrum nt/tans (Indian grass), 199
rockrose, 3 2 1 scale insects, 4 1 6 sorrel, 189
rooftop garden phln, 194-1.95 scarecrows, 34, 48 sorrel tree, 1 8 1
rooms, crearing outdoor, 38-39, 166-169 scarlet bugler, 1 9 1 Southern live oak, 3 1 5
root rots, 421 Scotch heather, 3 2 0 Sptlrtlxis tricolor (harlequin flower), 37 1 , 3 7 1
rose screws, deck, 78 Spatbyipbyllu1!l (peace lily), 203
'Abrahal11 Darby', 357 sealers, wood, 79, 276 speedwell, 46, 1 8 1 , 3 5 3 , 353
'Ballerina', 45, 356 sea oars, 374 Spbaera!cea ambigua (globe mallow), 193
c1imbing, 9, 24, 143, 1 8 1 , 356, 357 se.ashore paspalum, 345 spiderwort, 155, 353, 353
'Dortmund', 143 seasons, 16-17 spinach, 383
'Double Delight', 356 all�season landscape plan, 198-199 spinulose wood fern, 195
gardens, 26-27 changing sun and shade patterns, 152-153 Spiraea spp., 1 8 1 , 327, 327
'G rahal11 Thomas', 357 sedge, 189, 374, 374 sprinklers, hose�end, 3 89-390, 407, 407
hedges, 1 3 9, 356 Sedu", (stonecrop), 46, 61, 64, 353 sprinkler systems, 2 12-217, 407-408
'Heritage', 357 'Autumn Joy', 33, 346, 353 head styles, 2 1 5 , 2 1 5
Lady banks' rose, 191 'Matrona', 183 installing, 2 1 6-217
'Margo Koster', 356 telepbium, 1 87 , 199 planning, 2 12-2 14
'Nearly Wild ' , 50 seedlings, selecting and planting, 305 timers, 2 1 3 , 2 15
'New Dawn', 44 Senegal date palm, 3 1 7 valves, 2 1 4, 2 1 5
'Phyllis Bide', 24 Sequoia sempervirens (coast redwood) , 190, spruce, 194, 3 15, 3 1 5
planting and caring for, 354-355 3 15 spurge,]apanese, 179, 1 89, 199, 3 37 , 3 3 7
rugosa, 187 service areas, 18-19 squash, 185, 382
sampler, 356-357 serviceberry, 3 10 Stacb)'s b),zantina (lamb's ears), 189, 194, 353
'Sun Flare', 201 shade gardens, 20, 50, 56-57, 196-197 stains, wood, 79, 276
'Sun Goddess', 45 sheds. See storage star jasmine, 3 3 1
'The Fairy', 27 shell ginger, 203 Sf. Augustine grass, 345, 345
'Zephirine Drouhin', 27 shower of gold, 203 Stenotapbrum secundatum (St. Augustine
rosemary, 49, 1 9 1 , 326-327, 384, 385 shrimp plant, 203 grass), 345, 345
ruby grass, 2 1 shrubs, 3 1 8-327. See also spea/,c shrubs Stepping�srones, 250-2 5 1
Rudbeckia hirta (black�eyed Susan, gloriosa maintaining, 3 1 9 steps, 1 10-1 1 1 , 223, 238-239, 286
daisy), 1 8 1 , 346, 352, 352, 3 7 7 for privacy, 136-139 Stipa spp. (feather grass), 3 73, 3 7 5 , 3 75
Ruellia penillSularis (Baja ruellia), 192 pruning, 405 Sr. ] ohnsworr, 197, 3 3 6
Russian olive, 3 1 1 sampler, 320-327 srock, 3 6 4 , 364
Russian sage, 32, 346, 352, 352 side yards and gardens, 1 75, 178-179 srone
rust, 4 1 1 , 42 1 silk tree, 3 10 cuning, 248, 248
silverberry, 322 edgings, 93
silver dare palm, 203 paths, 1 06- 107, 248-2 5 1
'
S silvergrass, 194 patio surface, 9 1
Sabal palmetto (cabbage pall11) , 203, 3 17 silver .lace vine, 3 3 1 steps, 1 1 0
safety, 206-207 site preparation walls, 124, 1 25, 127, 229, 230-23 1
reducing wildfire danger, 66-67 analysis, 150-155 stonecrop. See Sedu!!I (stonecrop)
using wood preservatives, 237 drainage, 2 10-2 1 1 storage, 18, 1 8, 1 9
saffron buckwheat, 1 9 1 grading, 208-209 strawberry, 184, 187, .335
sage. See Salvia (sage) slopes, 154-155, 1 9 1 , 209, 24 1 srrawflower, 3 6 1
sago palm, 203 slugs and snails, 4 1 6--l1 7 Strobilanthes dymcJ/2us ( Persian shield), 50,
saguaro, 192 small gardens, 42-43. See also courtyard gar- 203
Salix spp. (willow), 1 8 1 dens; side yards and g'Hdens structure, creating, 166-167
Sa/pig/oIsis sinuata (painted tongue), 362 smoke tree, 3 2 1 stUCco, 14, 1 ] 7, 279, 279
Salvia (sagel, 46, 49, 1 8 1 , 1 9 3 , 332, 3 5 3 , 358 snails a n d slugs, 4 16-4 1 7 style, developing personal, 12-13
argentea (silver sage), 365 snapdragon, 363 , 363 submersible PUI11PS, 264-265
autumn sage, 58 snowdrop, 57, 369, 369 summerhouses. See gazebos
chanzaedryoides (germander sage), 1 9 1 snowflake, 370, 370 sun angles and exposure, 87, J 52, 1 5 3
clevelandii (California blue sage) , 1 9 1 soaker hoses, 390, 3 9 } sundrops, 5 5
/arinacea (mealycup sage), 5 0 , 195 sad, 3 4 1 , 342 sunOower, 1 8 3 , 1 85 , 360
o//icinalis (col11mon, culinary), 384, 385 sod wcbworms, 4 1 1 sunflower, false, 1 8 1
splendens (scarlet), 362, 362 soil, 300-303 sweet alyssum, 1 8 3 , 3 6 1
sandbox and slide project, 270-2 7 1 soldier beecies, 4 1 7 sweet box, 189, 327
Santa Barbara daisy, 1 06 Soleirollo soleirolii (baby's tears), 3 3 7 sweet gUIll. 3 12
Santolina neapolitana (lavender cotton), 1 06, Solenostemoll .�cutellarioides (coleus), 195, 203, sweet olive, 325
191 288 sweet pea, 364, 364
Sanvitalia procumbens (creeping zinnia), 362 Solomon's seal, 189 sweet potato vinCI 63
Sarcococca (sweet box), 189, 327 sooty mold, 42 1 sweet \X/illiam, 365

430 LOWE'S COMPLETE GUIOE TO LANOSCAPING

sweet woodruff, 189, 3 3 5 USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map, 298-299 water lUy, 1 95 , 289
Swiss chard, 3 8 3 , J8J util ities, locating. 1 5 1 , 2 1 0 waleI' sealers, 79
Syagrus romanzofJianum ( queen palm), 3 1 7 wax leaf privet. 32--1. 324
symmetry, 1 6 3 weed control, 4 1 1-4 1 2 , 42 1-423
Syringa vulgaris ( common lilac), 1 8 1 . 189. 327, V weigel a, 1 8 1
327 Vacciniu m white fir. 3 1 - L 3 1 4
syrphid llies, 4 1 7 cOrylllbOSUfll (blueberry ) , 184, 187 whitetJies, --117
ova/UJII (evergreen huckleberry), 191 white snakeroot, 197
variances. 206 wildflower gardens, 54-5 5 , 57. 376-379. See
T variety, landscape principle, 85-86 a/so native planrs
Tabebuia chrysolricha (golden trumpet tree), vegetables wildlife, 1 4- 1 5 , 58-59. 182-183, 292-295
203 , 3 1 3 cook's garden of vegetable and herbs, windmill palm, 3 1 7 , 3 1 7
tachinid flies, 4 1 7 48--19, 1�6 window box. building instructions, 260-261
Tage/es (marigold) , �9, 187, 362, 362 garden plan, 184-185 winrerberry, 198, 324, 324
Taxus spp. (yew), 3 1 5 planting and caring for, 380-3 8 1 winrercreeper. 3 3 5
terraces, 38, 1 54, 1 55 sampler of, 382-383 wintergreen, 197
Teucrium/rut.icans (bush germander), 1 9 1 Verbella spp., 1 93 . 363 , 3 77 IViSima sp p. , 1 0, 142, 3 3 1
Texas ranger, 192 VerOllica (speedwell), 46, 1 8 1 , 353 , 353 witch hozel, 198, 323
textures, 1 62 Viburnum spp . . 327, 327 wood
Thaliclrum (meadow rue), 189 in landscape plans, 1 80, 183, 197, 199, 201 alternatives, 77
Thujo occidentalis (Eastern arborvitae), 3 1 5 VinClI minor (periwinkle), 337 fences, 240-243
Thunbergla alala (black-eyed Susan vine), 362, !
v ne maple, 189 finishing and preserving, 79, 236-237.
362 vmes 275-276, 279
thyme, 65, 384, 385 for privacy, 142-143 lumber types and grades, 76-77
tiger flower, 3 7 1 sampler, 3 3 G--3 3 1 paths. 108-109
Tigridia pavollia (tiger flower), 3 7 1 training and pruning, 329 steps, 1 1 1, 239
Tilia cordata (li ttle-leaf linden), 3 1 3 , 3 1 3 types of, 328-329 wood chips, 35, 104-105
timbers, landscape. See raiJroad ties and rim- Viola ( vio let, pansy), 3 5 3 , 353, 364 woodland gardens, 56--57, 57, 105, 196--197,
bers violer. 3 5 3 , 353 378-379
tobira, 3 2 5 Virginia bluebells, 197, 3 5 1 worm composting, 395
romaroes, 1 8 5, 382, 382 Vilex (chaste tree), 1 8 1 wormwood. 155, 348
royon, 1 9 1 \Iitis vim/era 'Purpurea' (ornamental
Trachelospermum ja5milloides (star jasmine), grapevine), ! 95
331 X
Trachycarpus jorttlnei (windmill palm), 3 17 XyLosma congestum, 327
Tradescan/ia (spiderwort), 1 55, 3 5 3 , 3 5 3 W
tree fern, 62 walls, 124-127
trees. See also specIfic trees brick, 124, 127, 1 2 7, 1 3 7 y
deciduous shade sampler, 3 10-3 1 3 buiJding instructions, 228-2 3 1 yarrow, 65, 1 8 1 , 1 8 3 , 332, 348
evergreen sampler, 3 1 4-3 1 5 concrete block, 124, 125, 126, 126, 127, yaupon, 179. 324
landscaping with. 3 08-309 127, 228-229, 2 3 1 yew, 47, 3 1 5
planting, 3 06--3 07 foundations for, 124, 226 yew pine, 203, 326
for privacy, 14G-- 1 4 1 funerions of, 38, 39, 166 yucca, 65
pruning, 6 7 , 67, 400--405 modular block, 2 3 1
shapes, 1 4 1 painted, 42, 52, 5 3 , 279
staking and train ing, 309 retaining. 125. 125, 1 55, 174, 209, 2 3 1 Z
watering , 392 stone, 29, 1 55, 1 74. 23G--23 1 ZantedesciJla aethiopica (calla lily), 3 7 1
t rellises stone veneer, 127, 229 Zauschneria cab/ornica (California fuchsia), 1 9 1
building instructions, 256--2 57 Stucco, 14, II 7, 279. 279 Zillllla elegans (zinnia), 1 7, l 8 1 , 358, 363, 363
uses and designs, 134-1 3 5 , 143, 166, 167, water conservation, 3 9 1 , 392. See also mulches zone maps
234 and mulching lawn grasses, 3 3 9
trompe l'oeil gates, 42, 52 water-conserving plants, 64-65 USDA hardiness, 298-299
Tropaeolum majus ( nas[U[[ ium ) , 1 95 , 364 water gardening, 36--37. 262-265 , 288-289 zoning ordinances, 1 5 1 ) 206
tropical gardens, 62-63, 202-203 fountains and basins, 26, 28, 3 1, 3 7, 40, Zoysia malreli" (zoysia), 345
trumpet creeper, 3 3 0 41, 50, 81, 264-265 , 288-289
Tulipa (tulip), 2 1, 1 8 1 , 199, 3 7 1 , 3 7 1 installing a rigid pond liner, 262-263
tulip tree, 197, 3 12 pebble fountain project, 265
rupelo, 3 1 2 , 3 1 2 pond in a pot, project, 264
rurrlehead, 183 ponds and pools, 15, 20, 3 1, 36, 4 1, 43, 62,
Typha minima (dwarf cattail ) , 183 101, 182-183, 262-263,
288-289
streams, 108, 1 1 0
U wall fountain project. 265
unity, landscape principle, 85 walering, 388-3 9 1 , 406--408. See also irrigalion
systems

INDEX 431
PHOTOGRAPHY CREDITS
Ellch image is identified by i t s position on [ h e p.lge:
B (boltom); Be ( bo l tom center); BI (bollom i nset ) ; BL
(bollom left); BR ( bottom righ t ) ; C (cenrer); CR
(cC!1lcr right); L (left); LL (lower left ); LM (lower
midJleL LNIR ( lowe r middle figh t ) ; LR (lower righd:
1 1 I ( m idd le inser); ML ( midd le left); J\I\R (middle
\ 399 TL 403. Andrew Howard: 99. Jean-Claude
righd: R (righd: T (top); TC (lOp center); Tel (10 1'
center left ) ; TeR (top centcr ["ighd; T1 (top inset!: TL
((OP l eft ) ; TR ( W I' righ t ) ; UM (upper middle); UlvlR
(upper middle righd : UL ( u p per le h ) ; UR ( u p per
right!. A page number with no direcrionals indicates
the photographer made all the picrurcs on that pllg e.
Bill Aaron: 320 R. Ian Adams: 97 L; 162 TL. La ..;y
Albee, Longwood Gardens: 206. TillJl Alben: 1 1 2
Jean Allsopp: 13 TR: -14: 1 1 7 BR: 330 C 3 -U TR. R.
Anderson: [ 1 3 BR. Scon Atkinson: 68: 77 T; 79: 267:
303: 3 -n: 385. Max E. Badgley: 4 1 0 81. Pafl"ick
Bennel1: 35 BL. R. Botanica: 5. Marion Brenner: I: 3 3
TL; 53 BL; 107 R ; 109 B l ; 1 63 B; 3 1 5 l ; 320 C; 3 5 3 C;
>62 C: .363 R: 37 I R: 376 C: 41.3 TL. Kathy Brenzel:
29-1 L. Judith Bromley: 12. Todd Bryant: -t 12 TIt � 1 3
SL. R. GllY Bumgarner: 58 TR: 1 1 8: 252; 277 UL. LL,
BL. Karen Bussolini: 9 TL: 5 3 R; 57 TL; 11 I TR, BR;
[23 TL; ! �8; 279 13K 3 5 1 R. Ka.·en Bussolini courtesy
Heliotrope Garden Design: .346. Karen
BussolinilJackson Scofield: 170 T. Campbell
Hausfeld: 2.37. David Cavagnaro: �9 BL; 165 TR; 294
R; 328: 3 5 1 L 37-1 R; 383 R. Waite.' Chandoha: 86 BR;
1 1 9 B; 124; 125 TC; 126; 288 R. Van Chaplin; 13 Tl;
17 TR; 19 TL, Bl; 26; 28; 29 B ; 3 J BL; 34; 3 5 Tl; 37
TR; 3 9 TL. B; 47 BL. 48; 50; 56; 57 Bl; 63 BR; 65 BR;
95 T; 104; 109 TR. BR; 1 1 3 TR; 1 1 6; 1 1 9 Tl; 123 TR;
1 3 0 TR, BR; 1 3 8 Bl, BR; 147 Tl; 208; 220; 223 TL;
286 TR; 3 1 0 C; 3 1 4 R; 32J C; 337 l; 356 C; 37) M.R;
376 R: 386: 406. Robert Charlier: 97 TR. Carolyn
Chatterton: 4! 8. Peter Christiansen: 95 B; 280; 292
Bl; 393 C; 402 Tl, TC. j"k K. Clack/Comstock; 42 1
TR. Connie Coleman: 296. Glenn Cormier: 381 B. R.
Cowles: 4 1 0 S. Crandall & C.·andall: 1 1 3 L: U5 TR;
282 BR; 283 TR; 407 L; 4 10 UM, lM, MI; 4 1 5 TL.
Clai.·e CUI'ran: 8: 162 R; 3 1 2 R; 324 C; 361 R; 365 C.
Robin Cushman: 57 TR. Cheryl Sales Dalton: 19 SR.
Janet Davis: 87; 1 4 3 TL. R. Todd Davis: 324 R; .348 L;
3 5 1 C. Richard Day/Daybreak Image.·y: 292 TL. Alan
& Linda Detrick: 352 R: 375 C. Christol}her Dew: 1 4 1
L. Laurie Dickson: 55 T L . K e n Druse: 1 6 ; 4 1 S R ; 43
BC; 57 BR; 63 Tl; 368 L . Colleen Dufney; 254. Clyde
Elmore: 4 1 1 TR. Thomas E. Eltzroth: 420 BR; 421
TR. Linda Enger: 5 3 ML. Derek Fell: 1 5 BL; 164; 3 1 .3
C, R; 3 15 R; 320 L; 322 C; 3 3 I L; 369 L. Cheeyl
Fenton: 275 TR. LR, BL. William E. Ferguson: 4 1 6
ML, B R Rog. .· Foley; 1 7 TL; 8 3 BR; I l4; 128; 1 6 1
B R . Scott Gibson: 260. Fiona Gilsenan: 400. Da"id
Goldbeeg; 397 T; 4 1 1 BL; 412 TL; 422 TL. jay
Graham: 82; 140 L. Geoffrey Gross: 2 6 1 . Steven
Gunther; 42; 58 l; 65 TR; 85 TL; 140 R; 274 l; 3 1 6;
3 4 3 Tl; 345 R jamie Hadley; 89 TIl. Mick Hal.s; JJ4
L. Eric Hanson: 258; 259. Jerry Harpur: 21 TR; [ 17 L.
Marcus Harpur: 127 BR; 129 BR. Lynne Harrison: 2 1
TL; 3 7 B ; 43 Tl; 274 TR; 279 Tl; 291 L ; 292 BR; 349
l; 353 L . Ph;lip Harvey; )8; 5 1 Bl; 63 BL; 71 TR, Bl;
76; 77 B; 78; 80; 85 B; 86 TR; 88; 89 TL; 103 L; 108;
127 L; 157; 1 7 1 ; 172; 1 7 3 ; 207; 222 B; 224; 275 Tl;
279 BL; 283 L; 302 R. Marijke Heuff/Garden Pictut'e
432 LOWE'S COMPLETE GUIOE TO
Librm'Y: 138 TL. David Hewitt! Ann Garrison: 89 BL.
Erik Holdeman: 174; 1 7 5 . Sa)(on Holt: 20: 25 T; 27
BR; 36; 3 9 TR; 45 Tl; 47 BR; 49 Tl, BR {31; 59 TL:
65 Tl; 71 IlR; 1 1 9 TR; 129 T: 132; 142: 1 6 1 T, BL;
209; 272; 286 Tl; 3 1 0 R; 3 1 8; 3 19; 321 l; 326 C; 327
C; 349 R; 357 l; 358; 367 l, C; 368 R; 379 R; 392 R:
Hurni: 83 L: 1 00; 1 36. Arthur Lee Jacobson/Photo
Garden: 3 1 5 C. Dency Kane: 3 J BR. Philip Wegener
Kantor: 234. Lynn Karlin: 105 TR: 298 R. Dennis
Kennedy/Craig Anderson Photography: ! 70 B; 232 C.
R: 236; 278 B: 275 UL, UR, Ll; 279 TC; 28 1 ; 285 T
( 2 1 , 286 B, 2 9 1 T 293 294 B, 295 R 388 B 396 Il, 397
B: 399 B; 402 B; 404; 405: 409: 422 Il: 423. Ben
Klaffke: 67 TL. Bert Klassen: 147 BL; 160. B . Knopp:
4 1 0 T. Lynn Kopp: 2-1. A. M. Leonard: 408 B . David
Duncan Livingston: 8-1. Janet Loughrey: 1 5 TL; 9�;
3 1 3 L; 3.36 R; 364 L. Renee Lynn: 3 3 3 . Maggie
Maclaren: 137 R Peter Malinowski/In Site: 285 BL.
Allan Mandell; 2 1 BR: 3 I Tl; 134 TR; 266; 325 R: 350
R; .357 R; 373 TR. Charles Mann: 1-1: 22; 27 TR: 29
Tl, TR; 32: 55 BL. BR; 6 1 BR; 65 Ill; 70; 102 R; 105
BR; I 10: 123 Bl: 125 TR; 127 TR; 134 IlR; lJ9 R; 279
TR; 298 l: 322 R; 325 l; 3 3 1 R; 332 T; 352 l; 374 L,
C; 375 l; )76 l; 383 C; 4 1 4 . Sylvia Martin; 49 TR l J O
B l : 1 3 8 TR; 144; 3 1 7 C; 3 7 7 il K Ells M"ugg; 356 R.
Maslowski Photo: 292 TCR. S. MaslowskiNisuals
Unlimited, lnc.: 292 Te L, TR. David McDonald: 5 3
T L ; 8 6 l; 107 C; 3 3 6 L; 3 7 2 ; 375 R David
McDonald/Photo Garden: 32 1 R. Jack McDowell: 1 03
R. E. Andrew McKinney: 282 T, BL. Charles \X/.
Melton: 416 BL. N. et P. Mioulane/M. A. P.: 290 R;
366 1. T"'rence Moore; I ITR; 51 R; 289 TR. L.R.
Nelson Corporation: 1 9 TR. Richard Nicol: 3 1 TR.
Nightscaping: 285 UL, UR. Don Normark: 81 TR; 3 1 2
L . Noun/M.A.P.: 9 BR; 278 T. Carole Ottesen: 122 R:
165 L. Hugh Palmer: 369 C. Jerry Pavia: 3; 27 Ti: 43
BR; 106; 109 TL; 123 Be; 125 Bl; 139 l; 147 R; 165
IlR; 223 R; 302 l: 317 l: 323 L; 325 C; 326 l; 330 L:
3 3 5 l; 348 R; 349 C: 354: 356 l: 363 C: 364 R; 365 R:
367 R; 377 T, BC; 393 L. joanne P"i" 360 l ; 383 L.
Celia Pearson: 1O. Pamela K. Peirce: -I I I BR: -122 TR
Roben Penon: 28�. Karl Petzke: 275 BR. Leonard
Phillips: 378. Chuck Place: 66. Not'man A. Plate: I I
TL; 13 B: 17 B; 21 BL; 35 TR. BR: 43 TR: 45 R; 47 T:
5 1 Tl; 63 TR; 64; 97 IlR; 101 TR; 120: 1 3 5 TL, IlR;
248: 249: 257: 262: 263; 277 TR, CR, BR; 289 B; 304:
306; 308: 322 l: 332 B; 3 3 8; 340; 34 1 ; 342; 343 Bl,
BR; 344; 345 L, C; 350 C ; 352 C; 353 R; 355; 360 R:
365 L; 366 B; 370 L; 3 7 3 1lR; 380; 381 T; 3 82 R; 384 R;
389; 390; )93 R: 394; 396 T; 398: 399 TR; 402 TR.
Matthew Plu[; 105 l; 107 l; 125 Tl; JJ7 BL; 143 R;
212; 222 T; 250; 366 Il; 3 7 3 BR Rob Procto" 59 BL;
176. Jay Pscheidt: 420 TR. Ransohoff, Blanchfield,
jones, Inc.: 86 TR; 108; 291 R. Kenneth Rice: 83 TR.
Cheryl Richter: 155 R. John Rizzo: 256. Allen Rokach:
4; 6 1 T; 85 TR Bill Ross: 5 5 TR Nancy Rotenberg: 37
Tl; 6 1 ilL. Susan A. Rorh; 54; 137 TL: 3 I I C; 3 1 2 C:
324 l; 33 I C; 334 R; 335 R; 336 C; 337 R; 348 C; 3 6 1
l; 3 62 R ; 3 6 4 C; 3 6 9 R . Mark Rutherford; 210; 2 J J ,
, 2 14, 2 1 5, 2 18. G " e g Ryan & Sally Beyer; 154; 155 C :
373 L. Phil Schor-eld; 81 T L . Scotts Co.; 4 1 0 M, TT.
Alison Shaw: 45 Bl Richard Shiell: 1 5 BR; 290 TL;
3 3 0 R: 334 L; 337 C. Steve Sibbett; 4 1 1 TL; 4 2 1 BL.
Michael Skott: 1 3 5 BL. Chad Slattery: 62; tIl L .
SOllthern Progress Coq)oration: 6 : 9 BLj 25 B K 3 3
LANOSCAPING
BR: 4 1 l, TR; 46; 58 BR; 59 R; 96; 102 L ; 123 BR; 1 2 5
B R ; I J O T l ; 141 R ; 1 4 3 B l ; 1 5 5 l; 163 TR ; 204; 264;
300; 3 1 [ L; 415 BL. Pam Spaulding/Positive Images:
33 TR. Lauren Springer: 25 BL; 3 .3 5 C. Lyn n Steiner:
146. Thomas j. Story: 384 L. Joseph G. Strauch, Jr.:
3 1 4 C. Tim Street-Porter: 40. Sean Sullivan: 288 TL;
295 L Michael Thompson; 9 TR; 1 5 TR; 18; 27 Bl;
30; 3 1 Bl; 43 Ill; 67 R; 81 Ill; 101 Ill; 3 I l R; 3 1 4 l;
3 1 7 R; 3 2 1 C; 3 2 3 R: 326 R; 3 34 C; 350 l; 357 C: 360
C; 362 l: 363 l: 368 C; 370 C; 3 7 1 l; 3 82 L, C; 388 T;
-120 L. Connie Toops: 377 BL. The Toro Company:
�08 TL. TR. Andreas Trauttmannsdorff: 232 T. John
Tyson/GardenImage: 289 TL. Union Tools, Inc.: 4 1 2
B. VISIONS-I-Iolhnd; 3 7 1 C. jessie Walke" 7 1 TL;
163 Tl; 283 IlR Deidra Walpole; 89 BR; 1 17 TR: 129
BL; 277 TL. Darrow M. \'qatt: 270; 370 R; 3 9 1 . Jonelle
Weaver: 290 BL. Ron West/Nature Photography: 4 1 6
TL, TR. UMR, lMR; 4 1 7 : 4 2 1 1lR. Western Red
Cedar Lumber Association: 81 BR. Peter O. Whiteley:
II BR: 52: 269: 289 BL. Russ Widstrand: 98. David
\'(finger: 327 L. Craig D. Wood: 392 L: �07 R. Suzanne
Woodard: 285 BC, BR. Tom Woodward: 379 L.
Cynthia Woodyard: 327 R; 361 C. Wooster/The
Garden Picture Library: 274 BR. Tom Wyatt: 101 TL,
BR: 223 BL; 227. Ed Young: 415 R. Linda Younker:
11 BL; 3 1 0 L . David Zaitz: 67 BL.
DESIGN CREDITS
Our thanks to the designers, artists, and companies
who aUowed us co show their work n
i this book:
Maile Arnold: 1 6 1 T. The Berger Partnership: 88.
Craig Bergmann: 162 TL. Donna Billick: 53 BL. Kurt
Bleumel: 61 T. R. M. Bradshaw & Associates: 38.
Naud Burnett: 220. Debra Burnette: 5.3 ML Dan
Caudillo: 102 R. Tom Chakas: 1 3 4 TR. Jack Chandler:
224. Robert Chesnut: �l TR. Robert Chinock: 188.
Bob Clark: 107 R. Gay Crowther: 10. Jeff Dawson:
184. T. Topher Delaney: 8�. Suzanne Edison: 37 B.
Mary Effron: 21 TR; 65 TR. Kent Gordon England:
135 BR. Robert Engman: 80. Christine Ten Eyck: 192.
Stephanie Feeney: �3 TL. Michael Glassman &
Associates; 283 TR. Sarah Hammond: -1.3 BR. Cynthia
Hayes/Mosaic Landscape Design Group: 82. Linda
Hoffman/Guided I magery: 52. Robert Howard: 1 1 0.
Chris Jacobson: 1 1 TL: 20. Norman Kent johnson: 26.
David Kalo, Katoscopes: 178. Cory Kelso: 42. Abbey
K1etz: 1.37 BL. Stephanie Kotin and Christopher
Tebbutt, Land & Place: 105 L. Landscaping by Andre:
58 L. Lankford Associates: 3 1 TR. Ron Lutsko: 190.
Steve Martino: 125 TR. Keelya Meadows: 107 L.
Chris Miracle: 165 BR. Lisa Moulton: 120. Oehme,
van Sweden & Associates: 83 BR. Ben Page: 204.
Jonathan Plant: � 1 BR. Playscapes by KeDy: 270. John
Pruden: 3 1 TL. Charles Randolph: 70. Susan
Raymond/Dig It: 289 TR. Lynn Robinson: 24.
Royston, Hanamoto, Alley & Abey: 71 BL. Barry
Souals: 162 R. Schlegel Landscapes of Carmel: 68.
Chris Scuitto: 1 17 TR. Jim Sines: 33 BR. Phil Snow:
43 TR. Scott Spencer: 64. Brad Strangeland: 57 TR.
Freeland Tanner: 129 T; 1 3 2 . Jay Thayet·: 163 B.
Randy Theume: 109 BL. Barbara Thompson: 9 TR.
Van AHa Associates: 125 TL. Doug Walter Architects:
234. Judy Wigand: 47 T. Terry \'qelch: 30: .3 1 BL. Nick
Williams: 186; 222 T. Richard \XfilIiam Wogisch: 5 1
BL. Agatha Youngblood: 1 1 1 L . Mary Zahl: 2 9 bottom.
Get all the inspiration
and know-how you
need for your garden
landscaping projects.
A L L T H I S AND M O RE :

.:. What Makes a Great Garden .:. Landscape Design Tips and Techniques

.:. Landscape Style� for Today .:. Garden Pools and Other Finishing Touches

.:. Building Places to Sit, Walk, and Play .:. Creating Curb Appeal

.:. Creating Privacy and Comfort .:. Choosing the Right Plants

.:. Detailed Landscape Plans .:. Installing Lawns and Ground Covers

.:. Building Patios and Decks .:. Deciding on the Best Trees and Shrubs

.:. Trellises, Arbors, and Gazebos .:. G reat Ideas for Garden Paths

.:. Installing Sprinklers or Drip Irrigation .:. Adding Stone to Your Landscape

('I)
....
ISBN 0-376-009 1 3 -6
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1
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LO W E1S
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Home Improvement Warehouse

Improving Home Improvemenr

$34 . 95 US