CARE OIKKO (Unity) Project

Baseline Study Report

April 2016

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CARE OIKKO (Unity) Project
Baseline Study Report

Prepared by:
Shah Ehsan Habib, PhD

FUNDED BY EUPROPEAN UNION

IMPLEMENTED BY CARE

Prepared for:
CARE

April 2016

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 Acknowledgments

W e would like to thank all those who made this baseline survey possible. Work of
this nature would not have been possible without full support from CARE and local
partner organizations. Special gratitude is extended to Ms. Humaira Aziz, Director,
Women and Girl's Empowerment Program, CARE in Bangladesh who shared with us
preliminary protocol and the ideas during the planning phases of this study. We are also
grateful for the technical support received from Mr. Abu Taher, Team Leader, OIKKO
(unity) project. The comments from Mr. Maruf Kamal (Project Officer, OIKKO) also
helped us a great deal in both the design and implementation of this study.

We also acknowledge and appreciate the contributions of the study respondents in

Gazipur district as well as key informants and participants in focus group discussions.
They shared information about their lives and work place for the purposes of this
research and ultimately toward a better understanding of how programs can improve
the knowledge of the female workers in RMG sector.

Appreciations are also extended to the supervisors of EKATA centres in Gazipur and
Chittagong for helping us conduct the survey and FGDs among the students. We wish to
sincerely thank the Executive Director of Ogrojatra for helping us granting permission to
conduct the KIIs in Chittagong. Finally, our appreciation goes to the interviewers that
formed field teams to collect data and in moving around the EKATA centres across
Gazipur to conduct surveys and FGDs.

Shah Ehsan Habib, PhD

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 Acronyms and Abbreviations

BGMEA Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association

BILS Bangladesh Institute of Labour Studies
CBA Collective Bargaining Agreement
CPD Centre for Policy Dialogue
DPS Deposit Pension Scheme
EPZ Export Processing Zone
FDR Fixed Deposit Receipt
FGD Focus Group Discussion
FGW Female Garment Worker
FY Fiscal Year
GDP Gross Domestic Product
GM General Manager
GoB Government of Bangladesh
HR Human Resources
ILO International Labour Organization
KAP knowledge, Attitude and Practices
KII Key Informant Interview
MDG Millennium Development Goal
MFA Multi-Fiber Arrangement
M&E Monitoring and Evaluation
NTKC New Town Knitwear Co.
PF Peer Facilitators
PM Production Manager
OIKKO Unity
PC Participation Committee
PF Peer Facilitator
RMG Ready Made Garment
TOR Terms of Reference
VAW Violence Against Women

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 CONTENTS
Acknowledgements iii
Acronyms and Abbreviations iv
Executive Summary ix-xii

CHAPTER I : INTRODUCTION 13-18

1.1 Background
1.2 Justification of the assessment
1.3 Objectives
CHAPTER II : GARMENT INDUSTRY IN BANGLADESH: WOMEN WORKERS' 19-25
INVOLVEMENT
2.1 Overview of garment industry in Bangladesh
2.2 Empowerment of female garment workers
CHAPTER III : METHODOLOGY 26-32
3.1 Data collection methods
3.2 Formation of the research team
3.3 The study site and design
3.4 Study population and inclusion criteria
3.5 Sample size and sampling technique
3.6 Survey instrument and data collection
3.7 Focus group discussion
3.8 Key Informant Interviews
3.9 Selection and training of filed investigators
3.10 Field supervision, monitoring and quality control
3.11 Data analysis
3.12 Informed consent and ethical considerations
3.13 Strengths and limitations
CHAPTER IV : LIVES OF FEMALE WORERS IN READYMADE GARMENT SECTOR: 33-67
SURVEY FINDINGS
4.1 Background information of respondents
4.2 Family composition, accommodation and expenditure
4.3 Employment history, income, expenditure and leave
4.4 Occupational health and safety
4.5 Harassment and discrimination in the workplace
4.6 Unions and collective bargaining at workplace
4.7 Unions and collective bargaining at workplace
4.8 Capacity, skills and awareness
4.9 Female workers in decision making positions
4.10 Social empowerment: Perception of class
4.11 Economic empowerment and family expenditure

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 4.12 Structure and empowerment
4.13 Access to services
4.14 Social relations of work
CHAPTER V : WORKING WOMEN, PROBLEMS AND CLAIMING RIGHTS: 68-83
QUALITATIVE ANALYSIS
5.1 Challenges in the work place
5.2 Salary and benefit as per government rule
5.3 Harassment in workplace
5.4 Casual and maternity leave
5.5 Male-female discrimination in workplace
5.6 Control over income
5.7 Compensation for accident and sickness
5.8 Resolving workplace complaints
5.9 Labour leaders and their role in factory
5.10 Women leaders in the workplace
5.11 Role of welfare or participatory committee
5.12 Role of civil society and political leaders in problem mitigation
5.13 Has social status increased after joining garment factory?
5.14 How can female workers overcome their problems?
5.15 Role of EKATA Samity in creating awareness
5.16 Formation of trade union and workers' awareness
5.17 Challenges to implement labour law in the garment sector
5.18 Government's initiatives to monitor labour law implementation
CHAPTER VI : SUMMARRY AND CONCLUSIONS 84-94

References 95-99
Appendix: Questionnaire 100-112

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 LIST OF TABLES
Table 3.1 : Distribution of study population and study technique
Table 4.2 : General characteristics of the respondents (n=128)
Table 4.2 : Ownership of house
Table 4.3 : Family composition of the respondents
Table 4.4 : Job categories of the respondents (n=128)
Table 4.5 : Employment history of the respondents
Table 4.6 : Monthly household income of the respondents
Table 4.7 : How much do you usually contribute to your family on a monthly basis?
Table 4.8 : Information about leave
Table 4.9 : Occupational health and safety
Table 4.10 : Persons consulted in case of risk related to occupational health and safety
Table 4.11 : Role of occupational health and safety committee
Table 4.12 : Harassment and discrimination in the factory
Table 4.13 : Anti harassment committee in factory
Table 4.14 : History of union memberships
Table 4.15 : Collective bargaining capacity of the respondents
Table 4.16 : Workers' participation committee
Table 4.17 : Capacity, skills and awareness among workers
Table 4.18 : Workers' awareness about their rights
Table 4.19 : General awareness and knowledge of employment rights
Table 4.20 : Decision making power among the respondents
Table 4.21 : Female workers' participation in decision making
Table 4.22 : Average household monthly expenses
Table 4.23 : What do you do with the salary/wage and overtime money?
Table 4.24 : Information about savings
Table 4.25 : What kind of assets do you have in your own name? (n=128)
Table 4.26 : Treatment of workers based on sex
Table 4.27 : Experiences of discrimination among workers (n=33)
Table 4.28 : What is your opinion regarding improving the conditions of workers in
garment sector (n=128)
Table 4.29 : Proportion of respondents who need services
Table 4.30 : Visit of health services
Table 4.31 : Respondents' responses to being contacted with factory staff

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 LIST OF FIGURES
Figure 1 : How long have you been working in garment factories? (n=128)
Figure 2 : Salary earned by the respondents in the last month
Figure 3 : Amount earned by overtime in the last month
Figure 4 : Amount earned by salary and overtime in the last month (n=128)
Figure 5 : Monthly wage getting from current factory enough to live well?
Figure 6 : Is there any occupational health and safety committee in the factory?
Figure 7 : Are you a member of EKATA group? (n=128)
Figure 8 : EKATA members shared information with co-workers in this factory? (n=123)
Figure 9 : How do you rate your social status
Figure 10 : Respondents' current relationship status

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 EXECUTIVE SUMMARRY

Background
his report presents selected findings of a baseline study undertaken in selected

T areas in the project districts of Bangladesh, with the support of CARE in 2016. The
primary purpose of the study was to understand the situation of women's
negotiation power and to determine the nature and extent of their trade union
involvement and their accessibility and affordability to relevant services - with a view to
improve their economic and social well-being.
Although the readymade garment (RMG) industry in Bangladesh has been rapidly
growing recent accidents in factories and workplace harassment against women have
raised concerns about their rights and safety. In support of national efforts towards
implementation of fundamental labour rights and protection of female workers, and in
light of the progress made in the past few years in the country, this baseline study aims
to contribute to provide information concerning workers' knowledge, attitude and
practices (KAP) related to labour rights, laws and policies and to assess their
understanding of labour negotiation concepts, including their negotiation skills in
employment relationships.
Methodology
The study utilized both quantitative and qualitative methods involving questionnaire
survey, Focus Group Discussion (FGD) and Key Informant Interviews (KII). A descriptive,
cross-sectional survey of 128 female garment workers was conducted during January to
February 2016. The participants were recruited from selected centres of CARE running
in Gazipur and Chittagong. The quantitative data was collected through a pre-designed
and pre-tested structured questionnaire and the qualitative data were collected through
FGDs and KIIs.
The key research findings are as follows:
Demographic information
The average age of the respondents is 25 years (range 18-40, SD=5.4). Nearly half
(44.5%) of the women were within the age range of 18-23 years, followed by the age
range 24-29 (29.7%). The majority (82.0%) of the respondents had attended school. A
sizeable proportion (36.7%) of the women had completed IV to V Year level of
education, with only 7% having passed the higher secondary level certificate. With
respect to marital status, married women constituted the vast majority of garment
workers (75.0%). About 1.6% of the respondents were widowed and 3.1% were
divorced. A one-child family has been the common family size in this sample (54.4%) and
the proportion of mothers with 2 children is 32.2%. The average monthly income of the
respondents was Tk. 7,727.2 (SD = 6,621.5). Approximately half (47.7%) of respondents
reported monthly salaries in excess of Tk. 7000 per month. In terms of overtime, the
most common overtime bracket amongst the respondents (27.6%) was Tk. 1,500 to Tk.

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2,500, with 4.6% earning less than Tk. 500 in a month. Almost all the female garment
workers (97.7%) live in a rented house. The majority (57%) stated that the amount they
are getting is not enough to live well. Nearly half of the respondents (51.6%) admitted
that they have some savings from their earning though the amount is very small. More
than three quarter (42.4%) have bank accounts.

More than half (51.6%) of the participants interviewed in this survey were operators,
and a quarter (26.6%) of the sample reported being a helper. The majority of the
workers (55.5%) have been in employment for one to two years in the current factory.
More than half of the workers (53.9%) had received an appointment letter, and nearly a
quarter (24.2%) reported receiving any job description letter.
Occupational health and safety
Overall, the data show that occurrences of accident are moderately high in this sample.
Nearly half (45.3%) of the workers claimed that they had either witnessed or
experienced an accident or injury during their time in garment industry. The most
commonly reported reason given was needle injury or a hook that accounted for about
36% of work-related hand injuries. Some of the workers reported having finger cut by
scissors or machine (22.4%) and getting their hair/scarf wrapped around the sewing
machine (5.2%).
A large majority (90.6%) of workers claimed that their factory have emergency exit in
case of fire or other emergency. About one-fourth (28.1%) stated that the emergency
exit gate or staircase remains locked during working hour. A large majority of
respondents (95.3%) reported that their employer conducts fire evacuation drills for
emergency fire exit. More than half (60.2%) reported that their factory had occupational
health and safety committee in their factory.
Harassment and discrimination in the workplace
The results show that women garment workers are being exposed to harassment and
verbal abuse in the work place. Nearly a quarter (21.9%) of the workers in this sample
reported about some kind of harassment at their current work places. When asked what
type harassment they had experienced the vast majority (89.3%) reported about facing
slang language. Physical harassment has been faced by 3.6% garment workers. Besides,
occurrences of sexual harassment (e.g. touching, patting, rubbing or asking for sex) at
the work place of the garment workers were reported at 3.6%. Female workers are
commonly subject to harassment by their supervisors (92.9%) and line managers
(32.1%). The majority (60.9%) claimed that an anti-harassment committee exists within
their workplace.
Trade union membership
In response to the question whether the women workers became a member of trade
union or federation, only a small proportion (3.1%) said 'yes'. With regard to the reasons
given for not being a member of a union, nearly half (41.9%) said that they were not
aware of any union or federation. A small proportion (14.5%) reported that they do not
like to be a member of trade union. The majority of workers stated that their factories

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have workers' participation committee. Nearly half (49.3%) stated that the committee
was constituted by their authority.
Capacity, skills and awareness
The majority of workers said that they had never received any training either from a
trade union or NGO. Nearly one-third (30.8%) received training on fire fighting, followed
by 15.4% who said that they received training on labour law, empowerment and rights
related to working environment. About one-third (38.5%) said that they had received
training from CARE.
Awareness about labour law
Nearly three-quarter (71.1%) of workers surveyed knew that they can negotiate with the
employer for male-female earnings gap under the Labour Law of Bangladesh. When
asked if there is any gender wage gap for the workers in the factory, 38.3% admitted
that there is difference in earnings based on gender. A large majority (95.3%) knew that
a woman worker is entitled to get maternity leave. When workers were asked to state
what a trade union or participation committee (PC) is, nearly one-third (34.4%) showed
awareness on PC. Nearly two-third (59.4%) knew that workers are required to keep a
copy of appointment letter under the existing Labour Law. The majority of the sample
(almost 84%) believed themselves to be well informed about the rights and entitlements
related to getting an appointment letter (83.6%) from the employer.
Membership of EKATA group
The survey aimed to get a sense of why some workers decided to become a member of
EKATA group and to learn more about their involvement of their social networks. A fairly
high percentage (96%) reported that they have become a member of this group. When
asked if they had shared any information with their co-workers within the factory,
almost half (54%) of workers surveyed said that they had shared information.
Female workers in decision making positions
Around 86% of the respondents stated that they did not face any obstacle in joining
RMG industry. When asked who influenced them to join in the factory, more than half
(64.8%) indicated that it was their own decision to join in the RMG factory. Less than a
quarter (20.3%) said that their husbands motivated them to work in this sector. The
evidence from FGD suggests that female workers' parents, husbands and acquaintances
are concerned about many aspects of a factory's environment and operation if a woman
decides to work in a factory. The general perception is that female workers are exposed
to stress as well as verbal and physical abuse. When asked if their family members allow
them to take self decisions, more than half (56.3%) said 'yes' and 43.7% responded 'no'.
One quarter (25.0%) of the sample possess decision-making power for their savings in
the bank.
Structure and empowerment
Gender-based discrimination in work place is fairly prevalent according to female
factory workers' report in the study population. In the occupational setting,

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discrimination takes the form of behaviours and thoughts, and expressed by employers
(mostly by supervisors) against female workers. In terms of discriminatory practices,
about a quarter proportion (25.8%) of workers reported being the subject to unequal
treatment by the employer based on sex. The most reported comment given for
unequal treatment was males' privilege position in the work place in terms of salary,
training and work load (30.3%) as well as their good relationship with supervisors
(30.3%). Nearly half (48.5%) of the workers reported having experience of discrimination
with regard to promotion in their factory.
Social empowerment: Perception of class and self image
Women’s employment in the garment industry has affected self-esteem and social
identity, and has influence on their social status. Many garment workers harbour the
feelings that they have not been able to obtain the socio-economic status they ought to
obtain or deserve. This study incorporates a measure of self-rated social class
membership with mainly income and occupational status. Almost half (49.2%) of the
female workers placed themselves in 'lower middle class', while about 51% claimed to
belong to the 'middle class'. The findings indicate that female workers themselves value
the modern nature of their work, and value the autonomy and independence of
garment work that come with earning an income. A woman explained her experience,
"Everyone accepts me well as I am self dependent on my income." Many female
workers remark that garment industries in Bangladesh have a great potential as an
emancipatory force for women.

A major proportion of female workers remain financially dependent on their husband,

even though they are earning income from jobs in the garment industry. Nearly 54% of
women stated that they hand over their income to their husbands. While married
women traditionally have tended to give their earnings to their husbands, some women
(mostly single) are more likely to feel empowered by their earnings.

This study aimed to explore female workers' opinion regarding improvising their
conditions in garment sector. The majority of workers (59.4%) mentioned that salary
should be paid on time. About three-quarter (35.9%) of the sample identified bonus
which they expect to be paid on time.
Conclusion
Efforts are needed to reinforce the capacity of female garment workers and employers
to improve the safety of their workplace and to provide equity and security to their
working condition. There is a need to ensure that garment workers are represented in
collective bargaining agreements. The civil society can play a crucial role in bridging the
gap between the workers and the owners. To enhance skills in leadership, addressing
the under-representation of female RMG workers throughout all of the structures of the
trade union should be a priority for the union. A national platform would be helpful to
strictly implement the labour law of Bangladesh.

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 CHAPTER ONE
INTRODUCTION

1.1 Background

he correlation between gender aspects of labour rights and job quality in the

T occupational setting has garnered international attention in the recent past.1-3 This
is due to a couple of intertwined reasons, one being the employees valuing their
voice and the other being the voice enabling them to raise their job-related concerns
about the changes.4,5 Collective voice has been the prime focus of the exiting work on
labour rights, voice and quality, which also explored if better conditions in the industrial
setting are being favoured by the strong forms of social dialogue, the capacity of the
labour rights actors as well as their collective bargaining skills.

Within the past couple of decades, millions of people in Bangladesh have seen radical
changes in their lives as a result of the engagement with the readymade garment
industry.2,6 The RMG industry has had a couple of crucial impacts: the growth in the
economy at the macro level and the reduction of poverty at the household level.7,8
Women have been the unparalleled beneficiary of the RMG employment- where 2.5
million women have been provided jobs which accounts for nearly three-quarters of
formal female wage employment in Bangladesh.7,9

Wage for females, however, is usually lower than males in the garment industry. The
noticeable reason is the availability of a large pool of unskilled female labour in the rural
areas that is willing to work for low wages in the garment industries. In addition,
collective bargaining, and mechanisms to ensure minimum wage and other labour
protections are practically non-existent. Women are faced with critical gender
inequalities as well as challenges such harassment, discrimination, inadequate
workplace safety, poor working conditions in the workplace, and lack of opportunities
for promotion in spite of their contributions to this sector.10-16

The workers employed in the garment industry usually comprise of unskilled or semi-
skilled workers. The majority of workers in the garment factories comprise of women
and most of them are migrants who come from all over the country to work in factories
located nearby capital city. These women usually come from the rural areas, and in most
cases are not conversant with their rights as workers in factories. They are supporting
themselves and their families by working in the factories that link global supply chains.

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Female factory workers typically face many challenges throughout their working lives,
some of them linked to limited formal education.17 Rural women in Bangladesh
generally have less education than men, and migrant women have less education than
urban women, which typically translates into lower wages and job positions. Cultural
norms also influence women’s roles in the workplace. While Bangladesh historically has
emphasized gender equality more than many other countries in the region, gender is
still an important factor determining who does what job.18-21 Low-wage women workers
in particular have limited access to the training opportunities needed to improve their
management and communications skills.

Wage levels are generally lower than those of males in garment industry sector. This is
due both to the presence of a large reserve of unskilled female labour in the countryside
willing to work for low wages in the garment factories and to the absence of collective
bargaining or other mechanisms for enforcing the national minimum wage and other
labour protections.22 Despite their contributions, women still face strong gender
inequalities and challenges related to harassment, discrimination, inadequate workplace
safety, poor working conditions in factory settings, and lack of opportunities for
promotion.23-29

Enabling the success of female factory workers will be crucial to the region’s future.
Women factory workers have varying goals and concerns, reflecting their backgrounds,
work experiences and stages in life. This report emphasizes the importance of in-depth
engagement with workers to understand their specific challenges and ambitions.

Development partners and donor agencies have an important role in empowering

women through the voicing and structuring of their collective demands to tackle
injustice and inequality as well as enabling them to have control over their lives. Female
garment workers need resources and support to confront the powerful forces that they
are up against, and there are some organisations that are working on these issues,
including CARE.30 By supporting them development partners can make an important
contribution for the female garment workers’ fight. Civil society can also act in solidarity
with garment workers by putting pressure on the owners to pay up according to
workers' rights and entitlements.

In developing their strategic vision, CARE has identified women's empowerment and
leadership as inter-related thematic priorities, together with ending violence against
marginalized women.31 CARE has a strong focus on empowering women worldwide, as
an end in itself and as a way of lifting entire families out of poverty. In line with this,
CARE in Bangladesh has a long term strategic vision which emphasizes gender equity
and women’s empowerment, and marginalized poor women are one of CARE’s impact

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group. CARE has employed a multitude of varied approach to effectively enable the
impact it seeks to have for this impact group, as women are placed amongst CARE’s core
project beneficiaries. To effectively enable the impact, CARE has initiated 'OIKKO' (Unity)
project that help empower women at work by giving them the knowledge and giving
them the confidence to develop a stronger voice in the workplace and community.

The OIKKO project is part of CARE's women workforce empowerment programme in

Bangladesh, which aims to work with marginalized women in urban areas. OIKKO scales
up and increases the scope of previous and existing efforts to empower women workers
and labour rights activists in the ready-made garments (RMG) sectors. The interventions
of this project aim to uphold the fundamental rights of female workers in the RMG
industry and translate their rights into action. The interventions are given towards
empowering female factory workers and aims to strengthen labour right actors from the
grass-roots level by promoting the enforcement of the new Labour Law. The actions of
the project aim to address the influence of civil society and trade unions which can play
an essential role in raising awareness in respect of workers' rights, workplace conditions
in the RMG sector and promoting compliance with labour law principles. Under OIKKO
project, marginalized and socially excluded women workers joining into solidarity
groups (the OIKKO impact group) will reach and inspire co-workers and community
members. Unions' and labour rights organizations' outreach will inform and motivate
workers to associate and link into the grassroots labour rights movement. Ultimately, all
workers employed in the factories, whose workers are target groups of the project, and
their families will benefit from enhanced social dialogue.

1.2 Justification of the assessment

The RMG industry is one of the most significant sectors in Bangladesh. About 4 million
workers are directly involved within this sector, of which over 85 percent are women,
making it the largest employer of women in Bangladesh. Most of these women are poor,
low or unskilled rural migrants and amongst the most vulnerable social group in the
society. The sector contributes about 15 percent to GDP and accounts for 79 percent of
the overall export earnings.16

Female garment workers (FGWs) face a multitude of issues within their work place and
their communities, such as low and irregular wages and unsafe or unhealthy working
conditions. Previous studies show that the main challenge is to improve working
conditions in the RMG sector and weak capacity to negotiate. 19,32,33 Bangladesh has the
potential to capitalize on its low-cost labour, using it as its comparative advantage over
other countries.

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A growing body of literature has emerged in the last decade which provides a profile of
the working conditions of garments industries in Bangladesh.5,7,11,12 Few of the studies
document that working conditions in the RMG sector are below standard and do not
meet the ILO standards.34-37 Moreover, labour standards and rights are commonly
ignored in the RMG factories in the country. The poor housing, sanitation and health
care, as well as the extensive exploitation of labour prevalent in factories became a
focus for development partners. Poor practices include the absence of trade unions,
informal recruitment, and irregular payment, sudden termination, wage discrimination,
excessive work, and abusing child labour. Moreover workers suffer various kinds of
diseases due to the unhygienic environment and a number of workers are killed in
workplace accidents, fires and panic stampedes.38 Absence of an appropriate
mechanism to ensure the enforceability of the available laws for protecting workers’
rights and maintaining workplace safety continues to be a concern in the RMG sector. As
the sector is an important foreign exchange earning component, some changes are
required.

Several studies suggest that labour rights have not yet been established in the RMG
industry.39 Working conditions in the RMG sector frequently violate international labour
standards, and Codes of Conduct.35-37 In most of the garment industries, recruitment
policies are highly informal compared to western standards and there are no written
formal contracts and appointment letters. As a result, the vulnerable workers are the
most susceptible to losing their jobs. However, fear of losing their jobs and lack of
alternative job opportunities compel workers to continue in unsatisfactory
employment.24

Albeit all these challenges, there are many women who want to mobilize workers into
unions and other labour movements to challenge the inequalities and exploitation in the
garment industry. In recent times, female garment workers in the RMG sector have
developed some level of self awareness. They have learnt to defy threats, violence,
social oppression and powerful capitalist forces in order to defend their basic rights.
Their struggle is the key for the development of the workers, their families and whole
societies. The increase in awareness and a desire to unionize has an important
empowering effect for women who commonly are marginalised and discouraged to act
politically. This could allow real emancipatory change for women workers and the
chance to move out of poverty and become stronger and more independent
individuals. For the female workers, work in itself is not sufficient for creating
development and challenging gender inequality – the nature of work, environment as
well as justice is as important, and this has to be urgently reconsidered. The most
important source for that change should come from the garment workers themselves.
Development partners, donor agencies and civil society have an important role to play

16
by supporting their struggle and campaigning for legislative change on the national
levels.

In Bangladesh female workers have no voice in management or government and lacked

access to the kind of knowledge and resources that would enable them to overcome the
barriers in working conditions.39 Considering this, the OIKKO project aims to protect the
fundamental rights of female workers in the RMG industry by applying a 'workforce
empowerment approach' to support them both in the workplace and the community.
The approach provides a community-led framework in which marginalized and socially
excluded female workers will join in a solidarity group (termed as OIKKO impact group).
It treats individual voice as a valuable component of job quality in its own right, and as a
means of ensuring that job characteristics continue to match compliance criteria. The
project makes it possible to involve a strong and united civil society that can promote
the implementation of fundamental labour rights in the RMG sector in Bangladesh. The
project aims to reach more than 18,000 co-workers and community members.
Moreover, 22,500 workers will be reached by means of outreach activities - in order to
link them to the grass roots labour rights movement. In addition to that 700,000
workers (including their family members) employed in the factories will benefit from
enhanced social dialogue within and beyond the community.

Bangladesh has ratified International Labour Organization (ILO) conventions 87 and 98

on freedom of association and collective bargaining, and is required to protect the rights
contained in them. However, recent experience shows that the anti-union stance of
some garments industries has foreclosed opportunities to resolve critical industrial
relations issues, such as health and safety through dialogue and collective negotiation. 40
Some industries are fighting to keep the industries union free – promoting participation
committees, which have no power to bargain over the terms and conditions of their
employment, and which are frequently dominated by management’s hand-picked
representatives from among the workers, in place of unions. Trade union organizations
at different levels do not give priority to the issue in their regular activities for discussion
and action. Different women organizations working for the rights and empowerment of
women are also not vocal on the rights of working women. With this in view, the
present study is expected to increase the capacity of female workers and their
respective organizations to improve their working conditions, with an aim to explore the
extent of organization of female workers and their negotiation of space in the work
place. The purpose of this study is to explore the current situation of human rights in the
context of the RMG industry in Bangladesh and to offer concrete recommendations to
all stakeholders. Much of the content of this study was developed by consultations with
stakeholders held throughout the period of data collection.

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1.3 Objectives

While the need and evidence for programming on strengthening the capacity of labour
rights actors and empowering women in RMG sector in Bangladesh is increasing
gradually, no baseline study on this issue exists in the country. In support of national
efforts towards implementation of fundamental labour rights and protection of female
workers, and in light of the progress made in the past few years in the country, the
baseline study aims to contribute to provide information concerning workers'
knowledge, attitude and practices (KAP) related to labour rights, laws and policies.
Moreover, the study aims to understand the situation of women's negotiation power
and to determine the nature and extent of their trade union involvement and their
accessibility and affordability to relevant services (e.g. information, support etc.). Also
the study tried to assess the capacity of the trade unions working in Bangladesh in terms
of outreach and organizational strength.

The objectives of the study are:

 To examine knowledge, attitude and practices related to labour rights and

entitlement to the terms and conditions set out in the laws and policies

 To determine whether female workers can voice their concerns to management

to improve their condition

 To assess female workers' understanding of labour negotiation concepts and

issues, including their negotiation skills in employment relationships

 To determine the nature and extent of female workers' trade union involvement
and their accessibility and affordability to relevant services (e.g. information,
support etc.)

 To assess the level of participation of women workers in trade union or

federation related to RMG sector and the barriers to their participation

 To assess the role of trade union/federation leaders relating to capacity building

and awareness raising around women's workers rights to leadership and equal
opportunity

18
 CHAPTER TWO
GARMENT INDUSTRY IN BANGLADESH: WOMEN WORKERS'
INVOLVEMENT

2.1 Overview of garment industry in Bangladesh

angladesh garments industry is the largest export earning sector which has made

B tremendous success over the years in exporting garment products and has
surpassed the most optimistic expectations. According to the Bangladesh Garment
Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA, 2015), there are at present 4296
garment factories contributing about 79 percent of the country’s export earnings. It was
not until the early 1980s when the industry boomed as a series of economic reforms and
opened up the national economy to the global market. Between 1983 and 1984,
Bangladesh exported garments worth just over $31.5 million, and employed 120,000
workers in 384 factories. In terms of GDP, the ready-made garment sector's contribution
is highly remarkable - currently it reaches 15 percent of GDP which was only about 3
percent in the Financial Year 1991. This is a clear indication of the industry’s
contribution to the overall economy. It also plays a pivotal role to promote the
development of other key sectors of the economy like banking, insurance, shipping,
hotel, tourism, road transportation, railway container services and the like.

The RMG industry of Bangladesh started in the late1970s and became a prominent
player in the economy within a short period of time. The industry has contributed to
export earnings, foreign exchange earnings, employment creation, poverty alleviation
and the empowerment of women. The export-quota system and the availability of
cheap labour are the two main reasons behind the success of the industry. In the 1980s,
the RMG industry of Bangladesh was concentrated mainly in manufacturing and
exporting woven products. Since the early 1990s, the knit section of the industry has
started to expand. Shirts, T-shirts, trousers, sweaters and jackets are the main products
manufactured and exported by the industry.

The foundations of the garment industry in Bangladesh started as early as the 1980s.
Since the early days, different sources of impetus have contributed to the development
and maturity of the garment industry at various stages. The quota regime under Multi-
Fiber Arrangement (MFA) has substantially contributed to the development of this

19
sector. The quota elimination allowed global buyers to import as many garments from
the suppliers of Bangladesh. Over the decades, the garment industry benefited from a
number of advantages such as: very low labour wages (by regional standards);
increasing share of local inputs (particularly in knit fabrics); and comparative advantage
in mass-produced basic garments (such as knit cotton and woven cotton products).
Despite the epic growth of the country's RMG industry, and its bright prospects,
challenges are still there. One of the biggest challenges currently faced by our RMG
industry is to ensure workplace safety and better working conditions for the millions of
garment workers.

There are many other factors that led to a rapid expansion of the garment industry in
Bangladesh, with the country quickly standing out among other Asian countries with
large garment manufacturing sectors, such as China, India and Sri Lanka. As
Bangladesh's reputation for having a cheap manufacturing sector grew, an increasing
number of international brands began to source from Bangladeshi factories, and soon
the country became a convenient source for many buyers across Europe and North
America.

While the country's early success to Bangladesh is attributed to the initial technology
transfer from South Korea, such a one-time infusion of knowledge alone is insufficient
to explain the sustained growth for the last three decades. The government has played a
role in the development of the garment industry in Bangladesh.9,41 For example, the
government began to provide various incentives to the garment industry in 1982, such
as the duty free import of machinery, bonded warehouse facilities, and cash incentives,
and donated land to garment producers in Narayanganj and Gazipur. Furthermore, the
government sent missions to the US government to lobby for duty free access to the US
market. The government also helped organize trade fairs at home and abroad.

Bangladesh exports its RMG products mainly to the United States of America and the
European Union. These two destinations account for more than a 90 percent share of
the country’s total earnings from garment exports. The country has achieved some
product diversification in both the United States and the European Union. Recently, the
country has achieved some level of product upgrading in the European Union, but not to
a significant extent in the United States. Bangladesh is less competitive compared with
China or India in the United States and it is somewhat competitive in the European
Union.

Bangladeshi garments sector earns a lot of reputation from foreign garment buyers.
Over the years, it has provided the higher quality product with a convenience price than
other countries. As a result high ranked buyers from all the parts of the world are so

20
much interested to place order in this country throughout the year. Many of the
factories produce garments for large international brands, such as Adidas, H&M, Nike,
Puma, K-mart and Wal-Mart. While the garment industry in Bangladesh has traditionally
focused on rather simple manufacturing, new sewing and stitching techniques have
recently been introduced in the factories, thus allowing the manufacture of more
complex and intricate products in order to meet the demands of international buyers
and to compete with other exporting countries in Asia.

Most factories are unified under BGMEA, which was established in 1983 with the
purpose of increasing collaboration between all stakeholders to create a better business
environment. BGMEA is one of the largest trade associations in the country representing
the readymade garment industry, particularly the woven garments, knitwear and
sweater sub-sectors with equal importance. Since its inception, BGMEA is dedicated to
promote and facilitate the apparel industry through policy advocacy to the government,
services to members, ensuring workers’ rights and social compliance at factories.
BGMEA currently counts 4296 different garment factories operating across Bangladesh
as members. In practice, BGMEA acts as a powerful lobby for garment manufacturers to
implement business-friendly policies and legislation.

Ready-made garments manufactured in Bangladesh are divided mainly into two broad
categories: woven and knit products. Shirts, T-shirts and trousers are the main woven
products and undergarments, socks, stockings, sweaters and other casual and soft
garments are the main knit products. Woven garment products still dominate the
garment export earnings of the country. The share of knit garment products has been
increasing since the early 1990s. The contribution in GDP is about 6.92 percent in fiscal
year (FY) 2013-14. Although various types of garments are manufactured in the country,
only a few categories, such as shirts, T-shirts, trousers, jackets and sweaters, constitute
the major production-share. Economies of scale for large-scale production and export-
quota holdings in the corresponding categories are the principal reasons for such a
narrow product concentration.

One of the key advantages of the RMG industry in Bangladesh is its cheap labour force,
which provides a competitive edge over its competitors. The sector has created jobs for
about two million people of which 70 percent are women who mostly come from rural
areas. The sector opened up employment opportunities for many more individuals
through direct and indirect economic activities, which eventually helps the country’s
social development, woman empowerment and poverty alleviation.

Several studies show that, with some of the world's lowest wages and no job security
for its workers, the industry maintains one of the highest profits.22 Inhuman working

21
conditions, low wages, verbal and physical abuse, irregular or non-payment of dues and
the inability to organize are common in many of the factories supplying world-class
garments. Additionally, most of the so-called 'accidents' since 1990 reveal the faulty
structure of factory buildings including weak electrical wiring, lack of fire exits and fire
alarms, narrow stair and exit paths, poor foundation, and locked doors. These problems
could continue for inadequate or non-existent regulation and lack of monitoring by the
relevant government agencies.

The April 2013 'Rana Plaza tragedy' made the harsh reality that female garment workers
face impossible to ignore. Since then, a series of improvements and inspections on
factories have been gradually rolled out. But progress has been slow and there is still a
lot to do. For instance, minimum monthly wages for garment workers in Bangladesh,
who are predominantly women, increased to $68 in 2013. But this was still the lowest
figure in the whole industry - US$10 lower than in Vietnam, one of Bangladesh’s biggest
competitors. Garment factories in Bangladesh are constantly under pressure from
foreign buyers to deliver clothes cheap, fast and flexibly. The only way of keeping costs
low is by cutting wages and employers can do so without resistance from workers
because the latter are trapped with no other job alternatives to turn to.

While the growth of the garment industry has helped reduce extreme poverty and
brought some benefits to Bangladeshi women, these limited benefits do not
compensate for the fact that the garment sector remains extremely exploitative of
women and girls. Recruitment and employment practices reproduce and reinforce
gender inequalities in wider society.

2.2 Empowerment of female garment workers

Bangladesh’s performance in gender equality remains mixed. While some progress has
been achieved in economic empowerment and education, women are still at a
significant disadvantage in health, nutrition, employment, and political participation.
Disparities in adult literacy persist, and women’s participation in leadership positions in
the public and private sectors remains low. Women remain unequal under the law,
especially regarding divorce, inheritance, and property rights. Rape, dowry-related
assaults, acid throwing, and other violence are not uncommon, particularly in rural
areas, and are widely underreported and under-prosecuted (Freedom House 2006).42

Several research documented many aspects of the garment industry in Bangladesh.43 Of

the various aspects of the industry, the problems and the working conditions of female
workers have received the greatest attention. For example, in their study Kabeer and
Mahmud (2004) found that export zones in Bangladesh are generally considered to have

22
better working conditions, higher wages, and higher productivity than outside of the
zones.44 Zone workers are also more skilled and have higher levels of education than
those outside the zone. The study found that female workers in EPZs had an average of
8 years of education compared with 4 years for women working outside the zones. In
addition, EPZ workers are more likely to come from land-owning, food-secure
households.44 And finally, women working in EPZs tend to be younger and single or, if
married, are likely to have fewer children than women in other industries.

It is often common for women to work in specific types of factories (such as garment
and electronics manufacturers), while men are more common in other types of
factories, such as textile and knit-wear facilities.43 Jobs are often segregated by gender
as well—for example, women often dominate the sewing floor, while men are more
likely to do ironing and cut.

Women’s employment in Bangladesh has grown significantly in recent decades. In the

last decade, women’s employment increased almost one and a half times.8 A notable
area of growth for the country's economy has been in the RMG industry which has
created thousands of jobs for women since the early 1990s. Although women still make-
up the majority of full time works in this sector, they are likely to have less access to
basic health care services, education, financial capital and employee rights. Other major
challenges for women entering within this workforce include access to housing,
vocational skills, family responsibilities, transportation to and from work and rights
awareness.

Women represent the majority of workers in RMG sectors of Bangladesh. However, jobs
in the RMG sector have not come without challenges. A low minimum wage does not
meet their living-wage standards.45 Excessive over -time, incorrect payment of wages
and limited freedom of association in the workplace are issues pervasive throughout the
RMG sector. Previous studies have shown that even where unions or workers’
associations are allowed, women often lack opportunities for upward mobility, remain
unable or unwilling to unionize, and have no representative voice in garment factories.46

Harassment is often described only as a 'common experience' to women's in garment

industry. Sexual harassment is common, especially in garment industries, which is
dominated by women and non-unionized. Women do not enjoy the same opportunities
as men in the labour force and are usually employed in low-paying, low-skilled jobs
which have male supervisors. This inevitably allows sexual harassment to flourish. A
growing body of literature has emerged in the last decade which provides a profile of
harassment in the workplace. For example, a 2008 study of working women found that
70 percent of 'operators' and 78 percent of 'helpers' reported receiving verbal abuse
from supervisors and having a resulting fear of supervisors.47 Another study found that

23
60 percent of women workers interviewed reported being subject to obscene and
sexually suggestive language in the workplace; others reported instances of physical
sexual abuse.48 Surveys found that women face additional unique challenges regarding
transport to and from the zone and security concerns, a lack of access to in-factory child
care, and limited representation in worker committees and supervisory roles, as well as
inappropriate maternity leave and benefits.49 Female workers often suffer
disproportionately because of their greater likelihood of being hired at a lower level
than male workers, their lack of representative female voices in unions and workers’
associations, their home responsibilities, their lower education levels, and their
vulnerability to sexual harassment.

Women garment workers in factories are also known to suffer sexual harassment and
verbal abuse at the hands of managers and co-workers, but less so these days. However,
in the export processing zones, incidents of physical sexual abuse is also less common in
Bangladesh. However, there is a higher level of concern regarding security among
female workers than among males.

Female factory workers in Bangladesh are vulnerable to myriad of health issues,

including malnutrition, communicable diseases, pregnancy complications, incorrect use
of family planning materials, and reproductive infections and diseases. Key areas of
need included pre- and postnatal care, HIV/AIDS, nutrition, family planning, early
detection of breast and cervical cancer, and occupational safety and general health.50 In
general, workers in EPZs are thought to be healthier than those working outside,
because of higher wages and better working conditions on average.51

Female garment-factory workers are seen to 'represent the new generation of women
workers and perhaps the future trend setters' from a sociocultural perspective.8
Employment in the garment industry has increased the age of marriage, improved the
financial condition of young women's families through remittances, and reduced the
dowry in many areas of the country.

Women’s self-esteem and self-perception have also changed because of new sets of
social relationships in all or majority female households and work environments. The
acquisition of independent income has shifted women’s status in their family and in
society at large, giving them personal purchasing power, access to bank accounts, and
the ability to support their family financially.52 In a study conducted in a South Asian
country it was found that remittances from female garment workers had contributed to
an increase from 22 percent to 43 percent of families living in brick houses.53

The RMG industry has changed the lives of millions of female workers over the last three
decades. It has contributed significantly to economic growth at the macro level as well

24
as reduced poverty rates at the household level. Women, in particular, enjoy
unparalleled access to gainful employment – the RMG industry provides work to
millions of women, accounting for almost three-quarters of formal female wage
employment in the country. Drawing on this expertise, a number of international
development partners are supporting various skill development programs by developing
training concepts and by improving their capacity and developing their understanding of
human rights, including their entitlements related to labour rights through greater
knowledge and solidarity. Across some projects, women have reported increased
knowledge and skills, confidence, assertiveness and access to information and
resources.53

CARE's approach to women's empowerment fits within the power analysis framework.
More particularly, the women’s empowerment approach sees individual behaviours
embedded in their social and cultural context. Instead of focusing on psychological
processes as the basis for women’s oppression, CARE focuses largely on changing
determinants related to three overlapping categories - agency, relationships, and
structure particularly in light of gendered social norms in Bangladesh. This framework
used in the analysis of women’s empowerment is drawn from CARE’s global research
protocols on knowledge and awareness and practice in relation to the three interrelated
dimensions of empowerment. Agency reflects the extent to which girls and women
exercise choice through decision-making among available options. Social relationships
refer to the extent to which women/girls and men/boys negotiate needs and rights of
women through interdependence and cooperation with others. Structure refers to
women/girls changing institutions (such as, education systems, committees, and the
government) and social norms and values through active inclusion. In the context of
Bangladesh, mobility - an indicator of 'agency' and one of the key indicators of women
empowerment - appears to have played a significant role in the RGM women workers'
autonomy. Majority of young female workers have come from villages explicitly in
search of work, leaving their families and the rural-cultural milieu behind.54 In the cities,
female RMG workers (who are mostly rural migrants) live in groups in rented private
accommodation in low-income settlements, and in some cases in relatively better
conditions. Moreover, some changes in social norms have been noticed among female
workers. It has been found that social acceptance of women’s mobility (an example of
'structure') outside the home has been dramatic. Young, single women from the villages
are allowed to live on their own, without male family members. Overall, the economic
and social empowerment of these working women has changed their status in the
family.

25
 CHAPTER THREE
METHODOLOGY

3.1 Data collection methods

oth quantitative and qualitative methods of data collection were employed to

B collect the information from the garment workers, factory owners and BGMEA
leaders. Survey of RMG workers, focus group discussion (FGD) and key informant
interviews (KII) of the selected stakeholders helped generate some baseline data about
women workers' empowerment and their rights and entitlement issues. Such pluralism
in methods or triangulation is not aimed merely at validation but at deepening and
widening researcher’s understanding about the phenomena being studied. Detailed
methodology and design of the study including sample size, study population, process of
instrument development, variables, data collection, data analysis, and ethical issues are
stated below.
Three methods were used to address the objectives in the assessment:
 Survey with a structured questionnaire was administered in the intervention
(OIKKO) areas of CARE and its partner organizations. The survey was
conducted among marginalized women working in the RMG sector of
Gazipur and Chittagong city.
 Focus group discussions (FGDs) were conducted among female RMG workers
of Gazipur and Chittagong.
 Key Informant Interviews (KIIs) was conducted with factory owners, BGMEA
leaders, researchers and workers' leaders including senior officials of BILS.

Table 3.1: Distribution of study population and study technique

Technique Study Study location Study tool Number

population
Survey with RMG Female RMG Gazipur - Gazipur Structured 128
workers (face-to- workers Sadar , Konabari questionnaire
face interview)
Focus Group Female garment Gazipur - Sadar, FGD guideline 8
Discussion (FGD) workers Konabari
Chittagong- Kotwali,
Halishohor, Bayezid
Key Informant BGMEA/Union Gazipur KII guideline 5
Interviews leaders/Ward Chittagong
Councillor

26
3.2 Formation of the research team

The research team consisted of people with research expertise in gender issues. The
team was formed comprising members such as consultant, interviewers and research
assistant. The Technical Officer and Peer Facilitators (PF) of OIKKO project know the
contact details of potential respondents in Gazipur district where they have intervention
programs. The study team worked in association with a Consultant (from Dhaka
University) who coordinated and facilitated the study from the starting to the end.
Moreover, the Team Leader of OIKKO project and partner NGOs of CARE helped
accessing female garment workers and union leaders. A Research Assistant was
recruited on a full time basis to provide services on data editing and analysis.

3.3 The study site and design

The assessment was carried out in Gazipur district representing RMG sectors of the
country. Of the districts of Bangladesh, Gazipur represents numerous workers of RMG
sectors, and CARE and its partner organizations offer large scale services (awareness
program) in this city corporation. The survey was conducted in Gazipur (Sadar and
Konabari), and these areas were purposely selected because of the higher concentration
of RMG workers as well as to increase the sample coverage for the assessment.

A cross-sectional study design was undertaken in the study area. Information from
BGMEA leaders was integrated through KII, with data obtained by mainly interviewer
administered questionnaire, FGD and KII.

3.4 Study population and inclusion criteria

The target population for the survey consists of female garment workers who are
currently working in the intervention sites (CARE-SHEVA OIKKO project) of Gazipur.
Specifically, the workers are those who are working in the selected RMG factories
located at Gazipur Sadar, Konabari and Joydevpur.

The task of identifying garment workers was carried out with the help of CARE and its
partner organizations (especially Sheba Nari O Shishu Kallyan Kendra). The following
types of factories were included in the baseline study: 1) woven; 2) knit; 3) sweater; and
4) printing.

27
Inclusion criteria

 All female garment workers who live in the intervention areas and working for at
least one year in factories located in CARE's 18 intervention centres of Gazipur.

 Those female workers who are willing to participate in the assessment.

Exclusion criteria

 Those workers who have been working less than one year.
 Physically or mentally severely ill to participate in the assessment.

3.5 Sample size and sampling technique

Sample size

With having a well-defined target population, probability sampling approach was used
in the selection of sample. The following formula was used to determine the sample size
for garments workers:

Where,
n = required sample size
p = Estimated value of the parameter
e = Permissible margin of error, i.e. 5%
z = 1.96 which corresponds to the 95% confidence level
Deff (Design effect) = 1.0
pqz 2 95 × 5 × (1. 96 )
2
n    73
e 2 ( 5 )2

n = Sample size
p = Proportion of female garment workers reported to have improved social
connectedness under Care's SEEMA intervention program = 95%
q = 100-p
z = 1.96 (confidence interval of 95%)
e = 5% (sample error)
The sample size has been inflated to 75% i.e. 73 + 589 = 128

For the sample size estimation, we have data from previous evaluation study of SEEMA
project which indicates that 95% of female garment workers under CARE's intervention
program reported to have improved social connectedness. This indicates a gain in skill

28
towards building human and social capital. With precision of +/-5%, and a level of
confidence of 95, allowing a deviation of 5 from true population percentage, the sample
size required is 73. The original sample size was inflated by a safety margin of 75%, i.e.
128 to achieve a significant result. The sample size was proportionally allocated by areas
of Gazipur City Corporation on the basis of the number of garments workers recorded at
the registrar of BGMEA/partner organization.

Sampling technique

The target population consists of female workers in 18 EKATA centres (located at

Gazipur Sadar, Konabari and Joydebpur) which are running under the intervention of
CARE-SHEVA OIKKO (Unity) project. Random sampling technique was used to select the
study sample. Primarily eighteen centres were selected from Gazipur Sadar, Konabari
and Joydebpur, and then 128 female workers were selected randomly from the list of
the participants under the OIKKO centre. To meet the target of 128, female garment
workers were interviewed proportionately from each of these 18 centres. Each name of
the OIKKO member was written on a piece of paper and required names were picked up
randomly. If the member does not fulfil the inclusion criteria, then the sampling design
was implemented with replacement.

In preparing the sample frame, a number of considerations were made. Respondents

were recruited from all the eighteen centres run by OIKKO (Unity) project in Gazipur.
Each centre has a total of 30 to 40 members who came from various types of factories
(e.g. small, medium, large) and who voluntarily joined the centres. It was assumed that
female workers' knowledge, awareness and level of empowerment may vary according
to the type of factories. Moreover, level of empowerment may vary based on this
indicator. Proportionate number of female workers was estimated based on the number
of workers enrolled at each OIKKO centre. The centres included in the sample are:
Golap Ekata Centre, Rajonigondha, Joba, Keya, Belly, Hashnahena, Shapla, Surjomukhi,
Kodom, Meghna, Rupsha, Jamuna, Surma, Kornofuli, Padma, Titas, Karotoa and Turagh.

3.6 Survey instrument and data collection

The survey instrument was developed after consultations with the Team Leader of
OIKKO project, under the guidance of the Consultant. To prepare the questionnaire,
available published and unpublished reports were retrieved from web journal, national
statistics (BGMEA website), including ILO reports on labour law issues. A set of questions
was designed for face-to-face interviews with female workers. The instrument covers


Karmojibi Nari (2015). Final Evaluation of SEEMA Project. Dhaka: CARE.

29
information about demographic background, experiences of wage discrimination and
violence, involvement in union/federations, sources of empowerment, and knowledge
and access to labour rights-related information. Issues covered in the questionnaire
were pre tested so as to understand the extent of information and data gathered.

Data collection was accomplished in four-week time (from January to February 2016).
All female workers were interviewed individually in private at EKATA centres across the
study areas. No respondent was asked to provide identifying information.

3.7 Focus Group Discussion (FGD)

Focus Group Discussions (FGDs) were jointly done by the research team and
CARE/project staff. The field data for FGD was collected from Gazipur and Chittagong.
The whole team worked throughout the data collection period. A total of 8 FGDs were
conducted in two cities, which helped understand the nature of challenges, workers'
needs, and experiences of discrimination, their efforts of trade union, causes of low
participation as well as challenges and barriers of workers in forming a trade union. The
focus group comprised on average 8 to 10 workers. A homogeneous group of workers
(in terms of age) comprised the focus group. Specific emphasis was given on gender
specific views on the challenges of workers. The verbatim were transcribed in order to
capture the accurate and subtle meanings of the perceptions and views of the FGD
participants. The name of the EKATA centres in which FGDs were conducted include: A.
Gazipur- Keya Shapla Korotoa Padma Surjomukhi; B. Chittagong - Jaam Doyel Mon Suyea Jai.

3.8 Key Informant Interviews (KII)

Key informant interviews (KII) were conducted to complement and triangulate the
primary data collected. It was conducted to gain service providers' perspective and to
assess capacity gaps within stakeholders, including civil society initiatives for the
enforcement of workers' rights and entitlements and challenges for female RMG
workers to participate in trade unions/federations. Several interviews were conducted
with key informants in Dhaka and Chittagong which include owners, BGMEA/Union
leaders, Ward Councillor, using a checklist of topics.

3.9 Selection and training of field investigators

Training and instructions on how to complete the instrument were provided to the Field
Investigators by the Consultant and four females and one male were selected and were
trained to complete the questionnaire. Field investigators who have experience in
conducting interviews were recruited from the Department of Sociology, University of

30
Dhaka. One-day training was provided to the recruited investigators at the Consultant's
office.

3.10 Field supervision, monitoring and quality control

The Consultant together with a Research Assistant monitored data collection. In order
to ensure consistency and to minimise errors, each and every completed questionnaire
was checked on the day of the interview. The Consultant paid frequent visit to the spot
during data collection to ensure research progress. CARE and the partner organizations
(e.g. Sheva in Dhaka and Agrajattra in Chittagong) monitored the progress of the study
and provided assistance to assure that the female workers attend the FGDs and relevant
stakeholders provide data for KIIs.

3.11 Data analysis

Data were entered in computer and were analyzed using SPSS for Windows (version:
20). Descriptive analysis was conducted by running frequency tables, calculating means,
medians and some important categorical variables were compared using the chi-square
test. Data collected through FGDs and KIIs were audio recorded and were thematically
analyzed on the basis of repeated issues. Coding of open-ended data was done
manually, where manifest rather than latent themes were identified.

3.12 Informed consent and ethical considerations

Prior to the fieldwork, study instrument and consent forms were sent for approval from
CARE. An informed consent form was developed and was used in the study. Gender
sensitive data collection procedure was followed - female data collectors interviewed
female workers and the male worked as a research assistant. Confidentiality and
anonymity were ensured and for all categories of respondents, retraction of consent at
any stage of participation was allowed.

3.13 Strengths and limitations

Although the present baseline survey has yielded some important findings, its design is
not without flaws. A number of caveats need to be noted regarding the present study.
Firstly, recall bias represented a threat to the internal validity of this study, because of
using self-reported data. All data in the baseline study were obtained by self-report and
are subject to recall bias or may be underreported or overreported. Recall of
information depends entirely on memory which can often be imperfect and thereby
unreliable. In this survey, female garment workers found it difficult to remember or

31
accurately retrieve incidents that happened in the past regarding the length of service in
RMG sector or length of overtime in the month preceding the survey. Reliance on self-
reported time frame to calculate overtime, income and expenditure is likely to result in
low accuracy. Self-report of number of children and self-report of socio-demographic
characteristics are highly accurate. Self-report of the number of leave days (both earned
and maternity) has been shown to have a moderate accuracy.

Secondly, the validity of data from qualitative approach (e.g. FGD, KII) used in this study
can always be questioned. In this case, the number of participants was limited, but the
validity was strengthened through triangulation. Information was gathered from various
sources: peer facilitators, supervisors and project officer at the central level. This study
took advantage of FGDs, which captured interaction between participants, and thereby
allowed further exploration of the attitudes and experiences of the garment workers.
The selection of workers from all the OIKKO centres across Gazipur enabled a more
complete picture of divergent reporting obtained. Thirdly, the questionnaire contains
some questions that, if answered properly, might damage the factory's image. In this
type of questions, the respondents might provide socially acceptable answers. Finally,
the survey was conducted in a very short time mostly at night so we were not able to
recruit more samples.

32
 CHAPTER FOUR
LIVES OF FEMALE WORERS IN READYMADE GARMENT SECTOR:
SURVEY FINDINGS
4.1 Background information of respondents

Funded by European Union and Australian Development Corporation for a period of

three years, the OIKKO project ('unity' in Bengali), is being implemented by CARE in the
areas of Dhaka, Gazipur and Chittagong by enhancing the capacity of female garment
workers both in the workplace and the communities they live in. The overall goal is to
empower female workers and to inform them about their fundamental rights by
carrying out motivational sessions (in OIKKO impact group) for the protection of human
rights. With a workforce empowerment approach, CARE has created an OIKKO impact
group and the awareness program is being implemented across 18 EKATA centres in
Gazipur. A total of 128 respondents across 18 centres were interviewed in February
2016. The respondents were recruited from a range of centres which are located in
Konabari and Joydebpur under the district of Gazipur.

Table 4.1: General characteristics of the respondents (n=128)

Characteristics Number Percent

Age (n=128)
18-23 57 44.5
24-29 38 29.7
30-35 25 19.5
36+ 8 6.2
Mean 25.0 yrs, Range = 18-40, SD = 5.4, Median = 25.0
Marital status (n=128)
Unmarried 21 16.4
Married 96 75.0
Separated 5 3.9
Divorced 4 3.1
Widowed 2 1.6
Ever attended school? (n=128)
Yes 105 82.0
No 23 18.0
Education completed (n=128)
Illiterate 11 8.6
Can sign only 11 8.6
Year I-III 10 7.8
Year IV-VI 47 36.7
Year VII-IX 29 22.7

33
 SSC 11 8.6
HSC and above 9 7.0
Number of children (n=90)
1 49 54.4
2 29 32.2
3 5 5.6
4+ 7 7.8

The general characteristics of the respondents are summarized in Table 4.1. The average
age of the respondents is 25 years (range 18-40, SD=5.4). Nearly half (44.5%) of the
women were within the age range of 18-23 years, followed by the age range 24-29
(29.7%). Nearly 20% of women were classified in the age range 30-35 years. Of the total,
only 6% were aged over 36 years. The majority (82.0%) of the respondents had attended
school. A sizeable proportion (36.7%) of the women had completed IV to V Year level of
education, with only 7% having passed the higher secondary level certificate. Only 8.6%
of women had completed the secondary level, and similar proportion (8.6%) of the
women was illiterate. With respect to marital status, married women constituted the
vast majority of garment workers (75.0%). About 1.6% of the respondents were
widowed and 3.1% were divorced. A one-child family has been the common family size
in this sample (54.4%) and the proportion of mothers with 2 children is 32.2%.

4.2 Family composition, accommodation and expenditure

Almost all the female garment workers (97.7%) live in a rented house (Table 4.2). Half
(50%) of the female garment workers lived in tin-shed houses and 31.3% lived in a
cheaply constructed house (semi-paka). Only 18.8% of the workers reported living in a
permanent house made from bricks. The majority (64.4%) of respondents had monthly
expenditure (for renting an accommodation) ranging between Tk. 1,500 and 2,500,
followed by Tk. 2,500-3,500. Average monthly expenditure for house rent is Tk. 2,348.39
(SD=1207.7).

Table 4.2: Ownership of house

Questions Number Percent

What type of house do you live in?
Tin shed 64 50.0
Semi paka 40 31.3
Building 24 18.8
Ownership of house (n=128)**
Rented 125 97.7
Own 3 2.3
How much is the monthly rent? (n=128)**
<1500 7 5.5

34
 1500-2500 80 64.4
2500-3500 33 25.8
3500-4500 5 3.9
4500-5500 2 1.6
5500+ 1 0.8
Mean 2,348.39 yrs, Range=12,000.00, SD=1207.7, Median=2,000.00
Note: Upper limit excluded

Half (50.0%) of the women reported having 3 to 4 members in their family, and nearly
one-third (29.7%) had five or more members (Table 4.3). In the next question, the
respondents were asked whether any of their family members was living with them.
The distribution of the sample shows that more than three-quarter (90.6%) of the
respondents had been living with their family. About 6% of the respondents stated that
none was accommodated in their family. Nearly half (43%) of the respondents stated
that their husbands were economically dependent on them. Some of the respondents
(13.3%) also had to support family members who are dependent on them. But in case of
29.7% of respondents, none was dependent on them.

Table 4.3: Family composition of the respondents

Questions Number Percent

Number of family members (n=128)
1-2 26 20.3
3-4 64 50.0
5+ 38 29.7
Whom do you live with? (n=128)
With family 116 90.6
With relatives 4 3.1
Alone 8 6.3
Who is dependent on your income? (n=128)
Husband 55 43.0
Parents 16 12.5
Brothers/sisters 2 1.6
Family 17 13.3
None 38 29.7

4.3 Employment history, income, expenditure and leave

In the garment industry, women are mostly employed at the lower category of jobs, like
operator, finishing helper, and the nature of these jobs is very monotonous since there
is no possibility for personal creativity, expression and fulfilment in these jobs. Table 4.4
shows the job categories of the respondents. More than half (51.6%) of the participants
interviewed in this survey were operators, who has to sew a small part of garment

35
throughout her long working hours. A quarter (26.6%) of the sample reported being a
helper. The remaining was found to be engaged as a quality checker (7.8%) and sewing
operator (7.0%). The proportion of other job categories illustrated in the table was
insignificant.

Table 4.4: Job categories of the respondents (n=128)

Job category Number Percent

Operator 66 51.6
Helper 34 26.6
Quality checker 10 7.8
Sewing operator 9 7.0
Supervisor 1 0.8
Machine operator 2 1.6
Other* 6 4.7
Total 128 100.0
*Other includes jobs such as cutting, finishing, printing and linking.

The study found that the factories produce a variety of products, which can be broadly
classified as woven, knit, sweaters and printing (Table 4.5). The proportion of female
workers is high in the knitwear (85.9%) factories, followed by sweater (9.4%) factories.
About 3.1% garment workers are employed in the woven factories. The proportion of
female workers engaged in the printing factories is 1.6%.

Table 4.5 also shows the job duration of the workers in the current enterprise. In this
study, the minimum time period that we have considered is at least one year when
workers could potentially become oriented about their rights and entitlements. Those
workers, who did not complete one year of employment, were excluded from the
sample.

The majority of the workers (55.5%) have been in employment for one to two years
(Table 4.5). While as many as 25.8% workers had spent three to four years in the
industry, only 12.5% had spent five or more years in the current job. Of the remaining,
6.3% had been in employment with the current employer for a period between four and
five years. Thus jobs in the industry are generally of short duration and have a high
turnover.

In Bangladesh workers employed by garment factories do not require to sign any

document although the law defines that employer is responsible for payment. However,
in practice, they are required to sign on a sheet in order to receive the payment. In this
sample, the majority (92.2%) of the workers claimed that they had been given an
identification card (ID). Moreover, about half (53.9%) of the workers reported receiving
an appointment letter. Nearly half (48.4%) claimed that they got attendant card from

36
the employer. The table shows that almost a quarter (24.2%) of workers did receive job
descriptions from their employers. Only four (3.1%) workers had gate pass. The length
of overtime working hour ranged from 0 to 16.6 hours. The data show that the trend
towards longer working hours was relatively common among female garment workers.
More than half (65.6%) of the workers worked overtime between 26 and 30 hours per
month. This figure provides some suggestive evidence concerning longer length of time
in overtime, indicating heavy dependence on extra hours. In this sample, around 19%
did not prefer to work longer hours.
Table 4.5: Employment history of the respondents
Variables Number Percent
Type of factory (n=128)
Knit 110 85.9
Sweater 12 9.4
Woven 4 3.1
Printing 2 1.6
How long have you been working in the current factory? (n=128)
1-2 yr 71 55.5
3-4 yr 33 25.8
4-5 yr 8 6.3
5+ yr 16 12.5
Mean = 1.8 yrs
Documents provided by the current employer (n=128)*
ID card 118 92.2
Appointment letter 69 53.9
Attendant card 62 48.4
Job description 31 24.2
Gate pass 4 3.1
Other 3 2.3
How long was your overtime in the last month? (n=128)
0 hr 24 18.8
≤10 hr 4 3.1
11-15 hr 3 2.3
16-20 hr 5 3.9
21-25 hr 8 6.3
26-30 hr 84 65.6
*Multiple responses

Figure 1 shows female garment workers' duration of work in the RMG sector. In the
study site, the women averaged 4 years (SD = 3.2) of working as a garment worker,
mostly as an operator or helper. The duration of a worker ranged from less than 1 year
to 16 years (range = 15.75). The graph shows that nearly one-quarter (23.4%) of women
had been working in the RMG sector between 3 to 4 years. About 20% reported working
in this sector between 2 to 3 years. The graph demonstrates that over 7% of

37
respondents had been garment workers for more than 10 years, and another 6.3% had
been in RMG sector between 9 to 10 years. The results provide some suggestive
evidence concerning longer length of time in garment work, indicating heavy
dependence on this profession.

Figure 1: How long have you been working in garment factories?

(n=128)

25 23.4
20.3
17.2
20
Percent

15

10
6.3 6.3 7
3.1 4.7 3.9 4.7 3.1
5

0
<1 1-2 2-3 3-4 4-5 5-6 6-7 7-8 8-9 9-10 10+
Year

Monthly income of the respondents is shown in Figure 2. About one quarter (28.9%) of
the respondents had earned salary between Tk. 6,000 and Tk. 7,000, followed by 20.3%
whose income ranged between Tk. 5,000 and Tk. 6,000. Approximately half (47.7%) of
respondents reported monthly salaries in excess of Tk. 7000, with only 2.3% earning less
than Tk. 3,000 per month. The average monthly income of the respondents was Tk.
7,727.2 (SD = 6,621.5).

Figure 2: Salary earned by the respondents in the last month

60
47.7
50

40
Percent

28.9
30
20.3
20

10 2.3
0.8 0.8
0
<3000 3000-4000 4000-5000 5000-6000 6000-7000 7000+
In taka

The income earned from overtime is shown in Figure 3. Of the total sample (n=128),
almost all the respondents earned an amount of money by overtime in the last month

38
preceding the survey (mean = Tk. 2415.25). In terms of overtime, the most common
overtime bracket amongst the respondents (27.6%) was Tk. 1,500 to Tk. 2,500, with
4.6% earning less than Tk. 500 in the month. Approximately 14% of respondents
reported monthly overtime in excess of Tk. 4,000.

Figure 3: Amount earned by overtime in the last month

(n=109)

16
12.8 13.8 13.8 13.8
14 11.9
12 11 11
Percent

10
7.3
8
4.6
6
4
2
0
<500 500-1000 1000- 1500- 2000- 2500- 3000- 3500- 4000+
1500 2000 2500 3000 3500 4000

In taka

Table 4.6 shows the monthly household income of the garment workers. Most of the
garment workers (20.3%) have monthly household income of over Tk. 21,000. About
20% of the respondents have monthly household income ranges between Tk. 15,000 to
Tk. 17,000. The average monthly household income of these workers is Tk. 17,126.30
(SD = 6790.24, Range = 36,000).

Table 4.6: Monthly household income of the respondents

Income (in BDT) Number Percent
<5,000 1 8
5,000-7,000 5 3.9
7,000-9,000 7 5.5
9,000-11,000 9 7.0
11,000-13,000 9 7.0
13,000-15,000 11 8.6
15,000-17,000 25 19.5
17,000-19,000 12 9.4
19,000-21,000 23 1.8
21,000+ 26 20.3
Mean = BDT 17,126.30, SD = 6,790.24, Range = 36,000.00
Note: Upper limit excluded

39
The income earned both from salary and overtime is shown in Figure 4. Nearly half
(41.4%) of the workers had a monthly income (earned both from salary and overtime)
ranging from Tk. 7,000-9,000, followed by 21.9% whose income is ranged between Tk.
9,000 and Tk. 11,000. On average, these workers earned Tk. 9,783.96 (SD = 6,801.97)
per month. Only a small proportion (3.1%) of respondents reported monthly overtime
and salary in excess of Tk. 15,000.

F ig u r e 4 : Am o u n t e a r n e d b y s a la r y a n d o v e r t im e in t h e la s t m o n t h
(n = 1 2 8 )

50
41.4
40
P e rc e n t

30
21.9 16.4
20
10.9 3.1
3.9
10
2.3
0
< 5000 5 0 0 0 -7 0 0 0 7 0 0 0 -9 0 0 0 9 0 0 0 -1 1 0 0 0 11000- 13000- 15000+
13000 15000

I n ta k a

About one-third (34.4%) of respondents stated that the amount they contribute to their
family on a monthly basis ranges between Tk. 7,000 to Tk. 9,000, followed by 24.2%
whose contribution is ranged between Tk. 5,000 and Tk. 7,000 (Table 4.7). On average,
these workers contributed about Tk. 6,730 (SD = 2,648.36, Range = 15,000.00).

Table 4.7: How much do you usually contribute to your family on a monthly basis?

Income (in Tk.) Number Percent

<5,000 24 18.8
5,000-7,000 31 24.2
7,000-9,000 44 34.4
9,000-11,000 23 18.0
11,000-13,000 3 2.3
13,000-15,000 1 .8
15,000+ 2 1.6
Mean = BDT 6,730.20, SD = 2,648.36, Range = 15,000.00
Note: Upper limit excluded

Respondents were asked if the monthly wage they are getting from the current factory
is enough to live well with their family (Figure 5). Out of 128 female garment workers,
73 (57%) stated that the amount they are getting is not enough to live well.

40
 Figure 5: Monthly wage getting from current factory
enbough to live well?

43%
Yes
No
57%

Previous studies conducted in Bangladesh found that many female garment workers
force themselves to work until the very last day before the delivery, often on dangerous
and consequently better-paid jobs, and putting their own lives at risk as a result.3,11
Moreover, many women on maternity leave do not get their contracts renewed after
they go on maternity leave. In this context, this study assessed the level of access to
maternity leave and other earned leave by female garment workers (Table 4.8). When
asked if the workers had ever taken any maternity leave in the factory where they have
been currently working, only a small proportion (11.7%) stated that they got their
maternity leave. Information was also sought if they had taken any earned leave in the
last month preceding the survey, less than a quarter (18%) of the sample stated that
they took earned leave. On average, female workers took 3 leave days in the last one
month preceding the survey.
Table 4.8: Information about leave
Questions Number Percent
Did you take any maternity leave in this factory (n=128)
Yes 15 11.7
No 113 88.3
Did you take any earned leave in the last one month from this factory (n=128)
Yes 23 18.0
No 105 82.0
How many leave days did you take in the last one month? (n=24)
1-2 11 45.8
3-4 6 25.0
4-5 2 8.3
5+ 5 20.8
Mean = 3 days, SD = 2.7

41
4.4 Occupational health and safety

Respondents' occupational health and safety issues are presented in Table 4.9. Although
safety need for the worker is mandatory to maintain in all the factories, a lot of accident
is occurring every year in most of the factories. The most common causes for the
accidents are: lack of signs for escape routes, including lack of proper exit route to reach
the place of safety. In addition, adequate staircases are not provided to aid quick exit
and doors or opening along escape routes are not fire resistant. Lack of awareness
among the workers and the owners are also important causes for accident. However, in
recent times, the situation has improved much and the garment factories are fulfilling
the requirement of emergency exit. Considering this, questions were asked to examine
if the workers had ever experienced or witnessed any accident during their time in
garment industry. Overall, the data show that occurrences of accident are moderately
high in this sample. Nearly half (45.3%) of the workers claimed that they had either
witnessed or experienced an accident or injury during their time in garment industry.
When asked what type of injury they had witnessed, the most commonly reported
reason was needle injury or a hook that accounted for about 36% of work-related hand
injuries. Some of the workers reported having finger cut by scissors or machine (22.4%)
and getting their hair/scarf wrapped around the sewing machine (5.2%).

The table also shows workers' knowledge and awareness of emergency exit, including
employers' involvement in fire evacuation drills for emergency fire exit. A large majority
(90.6%) of workers claimed that their factory have emergency exit in case of fire or
other emergency. When asked of the emergency exit gate or staircase remains locked
during working hour, about one-fourth (28.1%) stated 'yes'. A large majority of
respondents (95.3%) reported that their employer conducts fire evacuation drills for
emergency fire exit.

Table 4.9: Occupational health and safety

Questions Number Percent

Have you ever experienced and/or witnessed any accident or injury during your time in
garment industry (n=128)
Yes 58 45.3
No 70 54.7
What type of injury did you observe there? (n=58)
Needle injury/hooked into finger 21 36.2
Finger cut down by scissor/needle/machine 13 22.4
Finger cut down by cutter/machine 9 15.5
Hair/scarf got stucked into the sewing machine 3 5.2
Cut on leg during pulling machine 2 3.4
Hand burnt by machine 2 3.4

42
 AC felt down into head 1 1.7
Injured in leg while stepping down during 1 1.7
earthquake
Light burst and caused fire 1 1.7
Other* 5 8.6
Does your factory have any emergency exit in case of fire or other emergency? (n=128)
Yes 116 90.6
No 12 9.4
Does the emergency exit gate/staircase remain locked during working hour? (n=128)
Yes 36 28.1
No 87 68.0
Sometimes remain closed 4 3.1
Don't know 1 .8
Does your employer conduct fire evacuation drills for emergency fire exit? (n=128)
Yes 122 95.3
No 6 4.7
*Other includes road accident, slept in toilet, getting faint

Table 4.10 shows respondents' resort to consultation in case of risk related to

occupational health and safety within the factory. More than half (61.7%) of the
respondents said that they had consulted with their supervisors. About 15% reported
seeking help from line chief, followed by floor-in-charge (14.1%) and co-workers
(10.9%). Nearly 5% reported that they opted for other means in case of risk in the
factory.
Table 4.10: Persons consulted in case of risk related to occupational health and safety
Questions Number Percent
Whom do you see in case of any risk related to occupational health and safety? (n=128)*
Supervisors 79 61.7
Line chief 19 14.8
Floor In-charge 18 14.1
Co-workers 14 10.9
Doctor 6 4.7
GM/PM 5 3.9
Other 6 4.7
What steps do you take to save yourself during accident/injury in factory? (n=128)*
Use mask 118 92.2
Use scarf to save hair machine 89 69.5
Use apron 73 57.0
Keep the orna tightly attached to body 25 19.5
Use cap to save fingers form machine 19 14.8
Do not use orna during work 16 12.5
Other 2 1.6
Don't use none of the above 2 1.6
* Multiple responses.

43
Occupational health and safety committee is an important initiative towards ensuring
safe work places and preventing accidents in garment industry. By establishing a
committee, enhanced awareness among the representatives of employers and workers
would directly contribute to safe work places. Active functioning of the mandatory
occupational health and safety committees can contribute to greater participation of
workers representatives in work place safety measures. Considering this, female
workers were asked to state if there is any occupational health and safety committee in
their factory. Of the workers in this sample (n=128), more than half (60.2%) reported
that their factory had such a committee.

Figure 6: Is there any occupational health and safety

committee in the factory?

39.80%
Yes
No
60.20%

Occupational Health and Safety Committee plays a vital role in preventing work-related
injuries, and are an important part of what is called the internal responsibility system.
This system, based on cooperation between employers and employees, improves the
overall understanding of occupational health and safety issues in the workplace. To a
large extent the analysis of workers' vulnerability is related to the role of occupational
health and safety committee within the factory. Questions were asked among the
respondents to state if they were aware of the role of this committee. The responses to
this question are illustrated in Table 4.11. Varied range of response was given by them
in relation to this question. Nearly a quarter (20.8%) of the sample stated that
occupational health and safety committee manages leave for workers, including
maternity their leave. Almost similar proportion (19.5%) of respondents reported that
the committee provides assistance to workers if they become sick. From descending
order other roles included monitoring of activities (13.0%), providing information
regarding health tips (5.2%), providing first aid (3.9%), and turning on fire alarm switch

44
during emergency (2.6%). About 14% of respondents were not sure about the role of
the committee.

Table 4.11: Role of occupational health and safety committee

Questions Number Percent

What roles does the occupational health and safety committee perform in the factory (n=77)
Manages leave for workers/maternity leave 16 20.8
for pregnant workers
Provides assistance for treatment if any 15 19.5
worker is sick/Calls doctors
Monitors every activity within factory (e.g. 10 13.0
safety, machine fitness and injury issues)
Committee provides assistance during any 10 13.0
problem
Provides health tips and information on how 4 5.2
to keep ourselves healthy
Provides first aid 3 3.9
Gives warning by turning on fire alarm 2 2.6
switch during emergency
Mitigates occurrences of conflict and 2 2.6
handles harassment complaints
Provides training on health issues 2 2.6
Manages get pass for workers 2 2.6
Not sure about the role 11 14.3

4.5 Harassment and discrimination in the workplace

Although women garment workers in Bangladesh are empowered they are still being
exposed to harassment and verbal abuse. Verbal abuse and shouting to the garment
workers by their supervisors is very common. Physical abuse such as slapping, pulling
hair is also very common. This study acknowledges the existence of harassment at work,
and the definition of sexual harassment used in this study limits itself to the workplace.
Harassment is taken to be conduct that undermines the individual worker’s right to
dignity – rather than the violation of her modesty. Moreover, sexual harassment
includes any unwelcome sexually determined behaviour (direct or implied) such as
physical contact and advances, unwelcome communications or invitations, demand or
request for sexual favours, sexually cultured remarks, showing pornography, and other
physical, verbal or non-verbal conduct of a sexual nature. Only nearly a quarter (21.9%)
of the workers in this sample reported about some kind of harassment at their current
work places, while the rest (78.1%) said they never experienced harassment in their
work place (Table 4.12). When asked what type harassment they had experienced the

45
vast majority (89.3%) of the respondents reported about facing slang language. Physical
harassment has been faced by 3.6% garment workers. Besides, occurrences of sexual
harassment (e.g. touching, patting, rubbing or asking for sex) at the work place of the
garment workers were reported at 3.6%. Threat of termination or demotion was
reported by similar proportion of respondent (3.6%). Further data show that female
workers are commonly subject to harassment by their supervisors (92.9%) and line
managers (32.1%).

Table 4.12: Harassment and discrimination in the factory

Questions Number Percent

Have you faced any harassment in this factory? (n=128)
Yes 28 21.9
No 100 78.1
What was the type of harassment? (n=28)
Verbal (e.g. slang/bad language) 25 89.3
Sexual harassment (e.g. touching, patting, 1 3.6
rubbing, asking for sex)
Physical harassment 1 3.6
Threat (termination, demotion) 1 3.6
By whom the harassment was perpetrated? (n=28)*
Supervisor 26 92.9
Line Manager 9 32.1
Co-worker 3 10.7
Higher Officer (e.g. GM/PM) 2 7.1
Owner/son of owner 5 17.9
Hired muscleman 3 10.7
Other 2 7.1
* Multiple responses.

Under the Labour Law, factories are supposed to provide a safe working environment
and prohibit any form of harassment. Hence any act of harassment or related retaliation
against or by any worker is unacceptable. The policy of anti-harassment committee
within a factory intends to prohibit such occurrences and also details procedures to
follow. When questions were asked if the factory (where the female workers are
working) had any anti-harassment committee, the majority (60.9%) claimed that such a
committee exists within their factory (Table 4.13). Further question was asked to state if
the committee was helpful, a large majority (91%) claimed that the committee was
helpful to prevent harassment and to assist the victim.

46
 Table 4.13: Anti harassment committee in factory
Questions Number Percent
Does your factory have any anti harassment committee? (n=128)
Yes 78 60.9
No 50 39.1
Is it helpful to you and your co-workers? (n=78)
Yes 71 91.0
No 7 9.0

Unions provide a mechanism for dialogue between workers and employers, which help
building trust and commitment among the workforce and ensures that problems can be
identified and resolved quickly and fairly. This brings significant productivity benefits for
companies. Recognising a union also means there is a single point of contact for
negotiating terms and conditions for workers, which is simpler, more efficient for the
employer and fairer than dealing with workers individually. Workers’ performance will
also improve where there is an independent means of dealing with problems rather
than leaving them until they get worse. Women workers were asked to state if they
became a member of trade union or federation (Table 4.14). Only a small proportion
(3.1%) of the respondents to a question on whether they became member said 'yes'. Of
these, half (50.0%) reported that they became a member of trade union or federation.
When the respondents were asked to state the reason given for not being a member of
union, nearly half (41.9%) said that they were not aware of any union or federation. A
small proportion (14.5%) reported that they do not like to be a member of trade union.
In response to a question about how joining a trade union influences a worker's work-life,
half (50%) stated that workers became aware of the labour rights and laws concerning salary
structure and leave.
Table 4.14: History of union memberships
Questions Number Percent
Are you a member of any trade union or federation? (n=128)
Yes 4 3.1
No 124 96.9
Name of trade union/federation (n=4)
Ekata samity 1 25.0
Labour federation 2 50.0
Labour welfare 1 25.0
Why haven't you become a member of trade union or federation?* (n=124)
Employer opposes it 3 2.4
Fear of losing job 6 4.8
No time in hand 16 12.9
Don't like it 18 14.5
Haven't heard trade union's name 52 41.9

47
 Other 16 12.9
How joining a trade union influences your work-life or what did you learn? (n=4)
Assures me about my salary rights as I have 1 25.0
labour card and membership of this labour
federation
Became aware of labour rights and laws 2 50.0
regarding my salary structure, leave etc.
To inform leaders about any misbehaves or 1 25.0
problems I experience
*Multiple responses.

4.6 Unions and collective bargaining at workplace

Collective bargaining is a form of employer–employee relations that allows employees

to be heard in the workplace on issues that affect them. Collective bargaining offers
professionals the advantage of being able to speak with one voice. In RMG sector,
regulations related to collective negotiation or bargaining have existed in Bangladesh for
many years. The Labour Law 2006 provides a legal justification for collective negotiation.
Despite the legal provisions, collective negotiation in this country has remained largely a
formality. For instance, in some cases the trade unions and the managements meet
without carrying out real bargaining and the trade unions simply accept what is
proposed by the owners or managements. In other cases, the owners or managements
do not even meet the trade unions. Collective negotiation has become more a result of
top-down requirement from the government or higher-level trade unions, instead of
'growing out of struggle and a process of institutionalization.' Ordinary workers or trade
union members do not have active participation in the process of collective negotiation;
neither are they being consulted by trade union leaders. Significant negotiation
between workers’ and factory representatives is usually absent in RMG sector. In this
study when female workers were asked to state if they ever participated in any
collective negotiation activities, only about 11% stated 'yes', and the negotiation was
related to grievances of salary issues (Table 4.15).
Table 4.15: Collective bargaining capacity of the respondents
Questions Number Percent
Have you ever participated in any collective negotiation with the employer? (n=128)
Yes 14 10.94
No 114 89.06
What did you get from your employer? (n=14)
Increased salary 12 85.71
Overtime according to entitlement 1 7.14
Other 1 7.14

48
According to Bangladesh’s Labour Act of 2006, section 205 (1), each employer of an
establishment in which fifty or more workers are employed is under a legal obligation to
constitute a Participation Committee (PC) in the workplace. The committee essentially
acts as a platform for social dialogue, and is comprised of the owners’ representatives
and elected workers’ representatives. The number of owners’ representatives cannot
exceed workers’ representatives. The PC’s functions are to: (i) promote mutual trust,
understanding and co-operation; (ii) ensure application of labour laws; (iii) foster a
sense of discipline and to improve and maintain safe and healthy working conditions;
(iv) encourage vocational training, workers’ education and family welfare training; (v)
adopt measures to improve welfare services for the workers and their families; and (vi)
meet production targets, improve productivity. In this survey, respondents were asked
to state if their factory has any workers' participation committee (Table 4.16). The
majority of workers stated that their factories have workers' participation committee.
When asked how the PC committee was formed, nearly half (49.3%) stated that the
committee was constituted by their authority, and nearly one-third (29.3%) mentioned
that it was formed both by the authority and workers. The table also shows that about
one-third (35.9%) of respondents knew the members who belong to the PC committee.

Table 4.16: Workers' participation committee

Questions Number Percent

Does this factory have 'workers' participation committee'? (n=128)
Yes 75 58.6
No 41 32.0
Don't know 12 9.4
How was the committee formed? (n=75)
By the authority 37 49.3
By the worker 9 12.0
Both by worker and authority 22 29.3
Don't know 7 9.3
Are you a member of this workers' participation committee? (n=128)
Yes 16 12.5
No 112 87.5
Do you know any of the committee members? (n=128)
Yes 46 35.9
No 82 64.1

4.7 Capacity, skills and awareness

The majority of workers said that they had never received any training either from a
trade union or NGO (Table 4.17). Nearly one-third (30.8%) received training on fire
fighting, followed by 15.4% who said they had received training on health care and

49
factory environment, and the same percentage (15.4%) stated that they had received
training that covered labour law, empowerment and rights related to working
environment. The table also lists the sources from where the workers received training.
About one-third (38.5%) said that they had received training from CARE.

Table 4.17: Capacity, skills and awareness among workers

Questions Number Percent
Have you ever received any training from a trade union or a NGO?
Yes 13 10.2
No 115 89.8
What was the training about? (n=13)
Fire fighting training 4 30.8
Health care and factory environment 2 15.4
Cutting and sewing with hand driven 1 7.7
machine
Disaster management and AIDS 1 7.7
Health and factory environment 1 7.7
How to raise cattle in household level 1 7.7
Labour law, empowerment, working 2 15.4
environment rights
Other 1 7.7
Which organization provided the training? (n=13)
CARE 5 38.5
BGMEA 1 7.7
BRAC 1 7.7
Fair and Lovely Foundation 1 7.7
Fire service 1 7.7
Labour Welfare Society 1 7.7
Podokkhep 1 7.7
World Vision Bangladesh 1 7.7
SPR 1 7.7

Garments workers were asked to state if they had become a member of EKATA group. In
particular, we wanted to get a sense of why some workers decided to become a
member of EKATA group and to learn more about their involvement of their social
networks. A fairly high percentage (96%) reported that they have become a member of
this group, with only 4% of workers reporting that they have not become a member.

50
 Figure 7: Are you a member of EKATA group?
(n=128)

4%

Yes
No

96%

Female workers who became the member of EKATA group were asked further questions
in order to provide more insight into information. When asked if they had shared any
information with their co-workers within the factory, almost half (54%) of workers
surveyed said that they had shared information.

Figure 8: EKATA members shared information with

co-workers in this factory? (n=123)

46% Yes
54% No

In the RMG sector, the protection of employees is ensured by legal certainty or how
much employees are aware of their rights and obligations and the extent to which they
are obliged to exercise their rights and carry out their responsibilities. In line with this, a
number of questions were asked among the workers to assess their level of knowledge
and awareness concerning labour rights and entitlements (Table 4.18). Nearly three-

51
quarter (71.1%) of workers surveyed knew that they can negotiate with the employer for
male-female earnings gap under the Labour Law of Bangladesh. When asked if there is any
gender wage gap for the workers in the factory, 38.3% admitted that there is difference in
earnings based on gender.

A large majority (95.3%) knew that a woman worker is entitled to get maternity leave (Table
4.18). When workers were asked to state what a trade union or participation committee (PC) is,
nearly one-third (34.4%) showed awareness on PC committee. Nearly two-third (59.4%) knew
that workers are required to keep a copy of appointment letter under the existing Labour Law,
with a large majority (82.0%) admitting that they are sure about the number of days a worker is
entitled to sick leave, and almost a same percentage (81.3%) knew that a factory worker is
entitled to protective equipment. The table also shows that about one-third (34.4%) of
participants were aware of group insurance for workers, and another half (50%) were aware of
Collective Bargaining Agreement (CBA) - a contract on working condition, hiring and dispute
resolution between an employer and a union.

Table 4.18: Workers' awareness about their rights

Questions Yes No
f % f %
Under the Labour Law of Bangladesh, can you 91 71.1 37 25.8
negotiate with the employer for male-female
earnings gap?
Is there any gender difference in earnings in 49 38.3 79 617
every job category in the garment industry?
Is a woman worker entitled to get maternity 122 95.3 6 4.7
leave?
Do you know what a trade union or PC 44 34.4 84 65.6
(participation committee) is?
Do you know that the Labour Law requires you 76 59.4 52 40.6
to keep a copy of appointment letter?
Do you know how many days of sick leave you 105 82.0 23 18.0
are entitled to?
In your factory, are you entitled to any 104 81.3 24 18.8
protective equipment (e.g. respiratory
protection)?
Do you know if this factory has group insurance 44 34.4 84 65.6
for workers?
Are you aware of any Collective Bargaining 64 50.0 64 50.0
Agreement (CBA)?

52
Table 4.19 introduces the study’s findings by providing a breakdown of individuals’
responses to generic questions about workers' employment rights and entitlements. In
particular, it examines workers' perceptions of their own levels of awareness and
knowledge, as assessed by a range of questions (prompted awareness). As this table
demonstrates, the majority of the sample (almost 84%) believed themselves to be very
well or well informed about the rights and entitlements related to getting an
appointment letter (83.6%) from the employer. The data show that almost all the
workers were able to name entitlements related to 'weekly leave' or 'maternity leave' or
'medical leave', recorded at about 98% respectively. A significant proportion (97.7%) of
workers was also aware of rights related to the provision of fire exit in a factory. The
data presented in Table 4.19 confirms that workers are generally well informed about
their rights and entitlements.

Table 4.19: General awareness and knowledge of employment rights

Questions Yes No
What are the rights and entitlements of a f % f %
garment worker?
Appointment letter 107 83.6 21 16.4
Eight hour of daily work 122 95.3 6 4.7
Weekly leave 127 98.4 1 0.8
Maternity leave 127 98.4 1 0.8
Casual leave 116 90.6 12 9.4
Medical leave 125 97.7 2 1.6
Equal wage of male and female worker 123 96.1 5 3.9
Appropriate work environment 118 92.2 10 7.8
Future fund 106 82.8 22 17.2
Medical allowance 110 85.9 18 14.1
Medical support (from doctors) 122 95.3 6 4.7
Rationing 56 43.8 72 56.3
Fire exit provision 125 97.7 3 2.3
Child care at factory premises 113 88.3 15 11.7
Double wage (based on basic pay) for over time 71 55.5 56 43.8

4.9 Female workers in decision making positions

Employment in RMG sector continues to be a source of empowerment for women in

Bangladesh. However, social and economic change through empowerment means that
power now depends less on households compared to individuals. RMG employment has
been increasingly a source of power for women because it has more collective effects
on women’s decision-making power. However, women had to be enticed into the RMG
workforce and many of them are not prepared to work in unpleasant factory conditions.

53
Considering this, female workers were asked to tell about the obstacles that inhibited them to
join in the garment industry. The responses are presented in Table 4.20. Around 86% of
the respondents stated that they did not face any obstacle in joining RMG industry.
When asked who influenced them to join in the factory, more than half (64.8%)
indicated that it was their own decision to join in the RMG factory. Less than a quarter
(20.3%) said that their husbands motivated them to work in this sector. Around 6% said
that their father inspired them to work in the garment factory.

Table 4.20: Decision making power among the respondents

Questions Number Percent

Did you face any problem to join in the RMG factory? (n=128)
Yes 18 14.1
No 110 85.9
Who has influenced you to work in the RMG factory? (n=128)
Own decision 83 64.8
Husband 26 20.3
Father 8 6.3
Brother/sister 1 .8
Relatives 6 4.7
Other 4 3.1

What problems did you face in joining garments industry?

Although female garment workers have come to constitute an increasing share of labour
force in the RMG sector of Bangladesh, they are at particular risk of harassment. During
the course of the interviews, many female workers stated that their parents, husbands
and acquaintances were concerned about many aspects of a factory's environment and
operation when they decided to work in a factory. The general perception is that female
workers are exposed to stress of increasing their productivity and verbal as well as
physical abuse. Not only are they vulnerable to physical, verbal and sexual abuse inside
the workplace but are also frequently subjected to harassment in 'public' places, as they
commute to and from work. Women from impoverished backgrounds are most often
subjected to this dual harassment.

Women workers are typically employed in a narrow range of occupations (e.g. operator
and helper), characterised by high job insecurity, low pay, exploitation, bad working
conditions, low status and minimal bargaining power. These characteristics enhance the
risk of workers being subjected to sexual harassment. Women typically occupy jobs as
operators and are excluded from positions of responsibility. This situation is reinforced
by the lack of training opportunities for existing operators. Predominant perceptions of

54
women as wives and mothers restricted to the domestic setting discourage them from
moving out of home stand up for their economic empowerment. Despite all the
challenges, women are moving out to embrace factory jobs and there are significant
benefits of having access to factory jobs on gender empowerment. The following
statements are particularly meaningful to substantiate their concern.

My husband didn't want me to do any work [outside home]

My husband doesn't want me to do a job as it would cause me problems, particularly physical

harassment

My mother didn't want me to join in RMG sector because of her fear of work load and harassment,
but I chose to work for the betterment of my children and to reduce the workload of my husband

My parents didn't want me to join in garments. Family members also convinced my husband, but I
myself decided to work in the factory.

Neighbours discouraged me to join in garments. They said, 'don't go to unknown town to do a job
in garments. You won't be able to do that. Your kids will be stolen or lost anytime'.

Parents were unwilling regarding my job at RMG sector. I came here [Gazipur] by my own decision.

Supervisor scolds and misbehaves with women workers. Factories do not give overtime wage
according to my services.

Though not having any certificates or educational qualifications some women are getting the jobs
because of their physical beauty.

Moreover, corruption has been a regular phenomenon in the job market of garment
industry. Some participants attending the FGD mentioned that bribes are offered to
supervisors to get a job immediately. According to a woman worker recollects her
experience in this way, "I waited in front of the factory gate for a job. The factory staff
kept denying me and demanded bribe at one stage. After 3 to 4 months of waiting, I
finally got the job with a bribe."

Autonomy is an indicator of women's empowerment and is essential in decision making.

It is the ability to obtain information and make decisions about one's own concerns. It
facilitates access to material resources such as income, land, food, and other forms of
wealth, and social resources - such as knowledge, power, prestige within the family and
community. Women's autonomy in decision-making is important for better family
functioning. Gender-based power inequalities can restrict open communication
between partners about a wide range of social issues. This baseline survey is centred on
collecting information concerning 'self decision' of female workers - whether or not they

55
are able to take family decisions. When asked if their family members allow them to
take self decisions, more than half (56.3%) said 'yes' and 43.7% responded 'no' (Table
4.21). When questioned where they can influence family decisions, 38.9% think they can
influence on decisions regarding purchasing assets (e.g. land, furniture). One third
(33.3%) of workers said that they can influence family decisions regarding child rearing,
including their education. One quarter (25.0%) of the sample possess decision-making
power for their savings in the bank. About 8.0% of women hold specific decision-making
power for their siblings' education-related expenses.

Table 4.21: Female workers' participation in decision making

Questions Number Percent

Do your family members allow you to take self decision or family decision? (n=128)
Yes 72 56.3
No 56 43.7
If 'yes', what are some of those decisions? (n=72)
Household shopping and expenditure of my own 34 47.2
income
Purchasing assets (land, furniture, gold etc.) 28 38.9
Child rearing and their education 24 33.3
Saving in my own bank account 18 25.0
Bearing education cost of sibling 6 8.3
Continuing my own education at school 4 5.6
Freedom of outside movement 3 4.2
Reproductive health issues (baby) 3 4.2
Managing personal problem 3 4.2
Sending money for parents 3 4.2
Other* 4 5.6
*Other includes decisions regarding marriage, sending children at parents' home, household
management and cooking.

4.10 Social empowerment: Perception of class

Women’s employment in the garment industry has affected self-esteem and social
identity, and has influence on their social status. Many garment workers harbour the
feelings that they have not been able to obtain the socio-economic status they ought to
obtain or deserve. This study incorporates a measure of self-rated social class
membership with income and occupational status. Generally, a person with a daily
income of 2 to 3 US dollar (1 dollar equivalent to 78 taka) is included in the middle class
in Bangladesh, and the upper middle class group is of people with a daily income of 3 to
4 US dollar. The lower class is typified by poverty, homelessness, and unemployment.
People of this category suffer from lack of medical care, inadequate housing and food,
and lack of decent clothing and safety. On similar theme, the concept of middle class

56
has been incorporated in this research. Almost half (49.2%) of the female workers
placed themselves in 'lower middle class', while about 51% claimed to belong to the
middle class (Figure 8).

Figure 9: How do you rate your social status

49.20% Lower middle class

50.80% Middle class

Society's view about garment workers

In Bangladesh, work in garment factory is viewed as having very low social status,
particularly for women. This is mostly related to the level of income earned by garment
workers and that employers in this sector do not respect workers' rights and the labour
law. Another understanding is that an RMG worker is a woman who possesses loose
morals, and this attribute is related to her unique situation as young, unmarried woman
living away from her family in an urban area. One reason for the negative image people
accorded women who left their families and village communities for factory work in
urban area is grounded in the construction of gender stereotyping. An unmarried
woman's living in a shanty house with no clear male authority also contributes to the
people's low image of the female workers. The attitudes of garment workers echo these
sentiments in this way: "Garment workers can not be good persons. Rural people have
this stubborn misbelieve that we are characterless [like prostitutes]." Another female
garment worker described how her image has been perceived by the society:

If ten people consider my job well living in Dhaka, other twenty accuse me as I am doing
something 'kharap kaaj' [indicating prostitution] here besides joining in garments
factory. They say eat less rather than working in garments. (A 25 year old female
garment worker in Gazipur)

57
While exploring female garment workers' perceptions about society's views towards
them, two prominent trends emerged: (1) positive image related to empowerment and
(2) negative image related to gender stereotyping and sexuality. The first trend
addressed the images that women had concerning their integration into paid work in
RMG sector which works as one of the important forces to their emancipation and
gender equality. The second trend of realization of experiences explored the gender
stereotypes that persist at society.

POSTITIVE IMAGE ABOUT GARMENT WORKERS

As I am living happily and earning money, they [people in family and society] respect me.

I am self dependent one that's why people like me

I don't bother if they say any wrong to me. I do my job.

I don't steal, I earn; that's why people respect me

I myself earn money by doing this job and have become independent. So society considers this in a
positive way.

I work in garments and I am self-depended. So people accept me well

In my area, doing a job in garments industry is not a bad one. They think people can earn money.

Most of our neighbours are educated. They encourage me to do a job - not to waste idle time.

My husbands is jobless, and as a wage earner people encourage me.

People don't take me bad. Everybody understands that I have to earn myself since my husband
left me.

People show me respect though I earn less but I do it myself.

Despite the lack of social acceptance, the female workers themselves value the modern
nature of their work, and value the autonomy and independence of garment work that
come with earning an income. According to a respondent, "Everyone accepts me well as
I am self dependent on my income." Many female workers remark that garment
industries in Bangladesh have a great potential as an emancipatory force for women. A
job at a garment factory gives pay and a visibility in terms of their economic
contributions. It also expands the availability of choices to women. The very fact that
they are now earning a wage on a regular base means they are seen by their family as
contributing to the family.

58
 NEGATIVE PERCEPTION ABOUT GARMENT WORKER
As a rural brought up women, people don't accept my job rather they want me to be married
soon.
Female garment workers don't have any character at all.
Female garments workers are 'characterless' according to the society and nobody will be eager to
marry us.
Female garments workers are not well enough. They should not go to this job rather they should
marry and make family.
If I face any quarrel with my neighbours, they accuse me as 'noshto meye' as I work in garments.
If the supervisor treat me well, other ones suspects my character. And society doesn't take us well.
My in-laws don't accept me well for my job [in garment factory]. They think female garment
workers are not good people.
My neighbours in the urban area respect me as I am a job-holder. But the neighbours in my home
town [rural areas] hate me. They don't like women doing jobs outside home.
People judge female garments workers negatively. They accuse me as I halted my education and
joined here.
People of the society think that the uneducated population have no choice rather than working in
garments.
People in society think that I am a widow who lives alone and does something notorious.
People rebuke me a lot here in Dhaka as I am a garment worker. Rural known ones do the same.
People think that as the girl started a job in the garments industry, she must have ruined her
'character' by free ly mixing with lots of unknown boys.
Rural neighbours humiliate my job and perceive the issue as I am doing something illegal with lots
of 'boys'
Rural people perceive the garments job as one of the worst ones. They consider it as dog [kuttar
lahan mone kore]. No respect left for garment workers.
Rural people talk behind as I am doing work with unknown boys.
Society perceives garment workers as lower cast and that's why no one intends to marry these
girls.
Society takes me as an inferior one. They ask why I work in garment factory? Doesn't my husband
have enough money or not.
Those who don't know about garments industry, bear a negative perception regarding our job.
This industry saves our [poor] life. And my village relatives are stubborn on their negative view
that I am an unchaste. But I am struggling alone. My husband is jobless.

59
For several participants, working at garment factories has changed their perception. A
26 year old woman says, "Firstly people misunderstood this profession. But time has
been changing. Everyone accepts this profession well." Another respondent's
experience suggests that working at garment factories was an experience which allowed
them to verify their past and present images. As she remarks,

Most of my rural people comment I am a bad person and I also had negative perception
about female garment worker. But as I am a garment worker now, I can understand
nothing is bad working in this profession. (A 23 old year old female garment worker in
Gazipur)

4.11 Economic empowerment and family expenditure

Many garment workers do not earn enough to cover their rent or buy sufficient food for
a month. For many workers, high rents choke spending on other goods and services,
impeding the economic recovery. In this study, a female garment worker’s house rent
varies from Tk. 500 and Tk. 8,000 per month (Table 4.22). The house rent of the garment
workers for a room (mostly without attached bathroom) is Tk. 2,303 per month. It was
found that on average most of the workers had to spend Tk. 5,793 on food per month.
Indeed rising food prices are a big concern for most people in Bangladesh, where poor
households spend nearly 50% of their income on food items. Gas and water are
essential items of day to day living - on average the workers spent Tk. 600 and Tk. 500
per month respectively on these items.

Table 4.22: Average household monthly expenses

Expenditure per month (in BDT)

Items Mean SD Minimum Maximum
House rent 2,303.23 1,014.50 500.00 8,000.00
Electric bill 918.18 1,279.70 300.00 3,500.00
Food 5,793.45 3185.79 1,500.00 15,000.00
Medical 1,530.35 1,389.33 150.00 8,500.00
Gas bill 600.00 - 600.00 600.00
Water bill 500.00 - 500.00 500.00
Child education 2,090.96 1,760.96 200.00 10,000.00
Travel 958.46 887.93 60.00 3,000.00
Other 684.58 1,994.14 200.00 2,000.00
SD = Standard deviation BDT = Bangladeshi taka (currency)

Garment workers were asked to state if they can spend their income as they wish.
Unmarried workers living away from their families may retain greater control over their

60
incomes, but the custom of remitting wages for the education of siblings or the
sustenance of the family appears to endure. In this study female workers were asked to
state what they do with the salary and overtime (Table 4.23). About half (53.9%) of the
workers said that they need to adhere to the wish of their husband concerning the
income. Slightly over one-third (36.7%) stated that the income was entirely used for
their own family expenditure. A substantial proportion (28.1%) claimed that they can
retain control over most of their income.

Table 4.23: What do you do with the salary/wage and overtime money?

Number Percent
Hand over to husband (partial/full) 69 53.9
Use for own family expenditure 47 36.7
Send the money to own family 15 11.7
Can spend as per my own decision 36 28.1

Savings mobilization is crucial for any viable economic and investment activity. In
garment sector, the ability to save or to mobilize capital in cash at bank is a major
prerequisite for accessing bank loans. The ability to save among female garment
workers is however, difficult due to their low income levels and inability to make
personal savings commitment. In this current study, slightly over half of the respondents
(51.6%) admitted that they have some savings from their earning though the amount is
very small (Table 4.24). More than three quarter (42.4%) have bank accounts, and nearly
14% preferred to purchase sanchayapatra (saving instrument for profit). Some (9.1%) of
them kept their money in NGOs; and the remainders keep most of their savings in other
institutions (e.g. insurance company, post office and co-operative).

Workers were asked to give the most important reason they choose to put most of their
savings in an institution. Table 4.24 shows the results. Workers cited 'security for the
future' and 'children's future' as the top two reasons for their savings. Both of these are
more important considerations either for their own or family members. Workers rank
'land purchase' as the third most important reason for savings. Around 41% of the
workers cite their 'child's education' as the primary reason for doing so, and slightly over
a quarter (27.3%) say they save primarily to 'construct a house'. In addition, 'making
future assets' and their 'child's marriage' were reported by 18.2% of the respondents
respectively.

61
 Table 4.24: Information about savings
Questions Number Percent
Do you have any savings? (n=128)
Yes 66 51.6
No 62 48.4
If yes, where do you save your money? (n=66)*
Bank 28 42.4
Sanchayapatra** 9 13.6
NGOs 6 9.1
Insurance 4 6.1
Co-operative 1 1.5
Post Office 1 1.5
Other 32 48.5
Why do you save money? (n=66)*
Securing my future 44 66.7
For children’s 'future' 42 63.6
Land purchase 37 56.1
For child's education 27 40.9
Construction of house 18 27.3
For making future assets 12 18.2
For children’s marriage 12 18.2
For own marriage 5 7.6
For dowry purpose 3 4.5
Investment in income-earning activities 4 6.1
To save for 'rainy day' 2 3.0
Other 6 9.1
*Multiple responses. ** Sanchayapatra = a kind of saving instrument for profit

Respondents were given the opportunity to answer a question about a variety of assets
to gather a rough overview of their net worth. According to this survey, the majority of
female workers (65.6%) do not have asset (Table 4.25). Only about 10% of the
respondents claimed that they have titles to their land, and only 2% said that they have
their own house. Fixed bank deposits were found in low proportion (5.5%) in this
sample. Other assets in the surveyed workers include only cattle (7.8%).
Table 4.25: What kind of assets do you have in your own name? (n=128)
Number Percent
Land 14 10.9
House 3 2.3
Cattle 10 7.8
DPS/FDR 7 5.5
Other 10 7.8
Don't have any asset 84 65.6
Note: Multiple responses.

62
4.12 Structure and empowerment
Gender-based discrimination in work place is fairly prevalent according to female
factory workers' report in the study population. In the occupational setting,
discrimination takes the form of behaviours and thoughts, and expressed by employers
(mostly by supervisors) against female workers. Female factory workers were asked to
state if male and female workers are treated differently by the employer because of
their sex. The data show that quarter proportion (25.8%) of respondents reported being
the subject to unequal treatment by the employer based on sex (Table 4.26). When
asked why unequal treatment is occurred, wide variety of comments was given by the
respondents. The most reported comment was males' privilege position in the work
place in terms of salary, training and work load (30.3%). Similar proportion (30.3%)
mentioned that male workers have good relationship with supervisors and they can
pursue well compared to female workers. Some participants (18.2%) stated that male
workers have greater ability to protest against employers compared to females, and a
slightly fewer (15.2%) mentioned women being weaker than males.
Table 4.26: Treatment of workers based on sex
Questions Number Percent
Is a male or female worker in this factory treated differently by the employer because of their
sex? Q87
Yes 33 25.8
No 94 73.4
Don't know 1 0.8
If 'yes', why? (n=33)
Males are always privileged group in terms of 10 30.3
salary, training, work load
Males have good relationship with supervisors, 5 30.3
pursue and pressure well; females are less
likely to communicate with them
Male workers are more prone to protest, girls 6 18.2
are not.
Females are physically week and males are 5 15.2
strong
Males have more courage, extrovert and 2 6.1
females are introvert
Male workers are capable of doing everything 1 3.0
but females are not
Male workers may form labour union and make 1 3.0
caos in the factory
Factory administration behave well with male 1 3.0
workers, so they don't activate any movement
Male workers are given important jobs in the 1 3.0
factory, in return they receive more facility
Uneducated women are being discriminated 1 3.0

63
The interviewers asked female workers if they had experienced discrimination based on
promotion, leave, bonus or related issues. Table 4.27 contains information regarding
experiences of discrimination among female workers. The results show that nearly half
(48.5%) of the workers reported having experience of discrimination with regard to
promotion in their factory. Discrimination against entitled leave was found in similar
proportion of respondents (48.5%) in the sample. Discrimination related to job
permanency was also common among the workers, reported at 39.4%. A smaller
proportion of female workers (6.1%) stated that they had experienced discrimination
concerning providing compensation of workers.

Table 4.27: Experiences of discrimination among workers (n=33)

Questions Number Percent

Are male and female workers in this factory being discriminated against based on these
services? (n=33)
Promotion 16 48.5
Entitled leave 16 48.5
Job permanency 13 39.4
Bonus 6 18.2
Compensation of workers 2 6.1
Appointment letter 1 3.0
Other 9 27.3

This study aimed to explore female workers' opinion regarding improvising their
conditions in garment sector. The majority of workers (59.4%) mentioned that salary
should be paid on time (Table 4.28). About three-quarter (35.9%) of the sample
identified bonus which they expect to be paid on time. Almost similar proportion
(34.4%) stated that their entitled leave should be given on time. Cooperation from the
employer was also mentioned by the female workers (13.3%).

Table 4.28: What is your opinion regarding improving the conditions of workers in
garment sector (n=128)

Questions Number Percent

What is your opinion regarding improving the conditions of workers in garment sector?
(n=128)
Salary/wage should be paid on time 76 59.4
Bonus should be paid on time 46 35.9
Entitled leaves should be given 44 34.4
Cooperation from the employer 17 13.3
Accommodation facility 7 5.5
Note: Multiple responses.

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4.13 Access to services
The respondents' responses related to their needs for services are summarized in Table
4.29. Female garment workers were questioned if they need any kind of services. The
most reported (55.5%) need was the provision of wider access to economic services,
followed by access to education (27.3%). About one fourth (25.8%) claimed access to
health services for their medical problem.
Table 4.29: Proportion of respondents who need services
Questions Number Percent
Which service do you need?
Health Service 33 25.8
Legal Service 3 2.3
Educational Service 35 27.3
Economic service 71 55.5
Other 6 4.7
Note: Multiple responses.

The work pattern in the garment factory severely affects worker’s health, as they were
restrained in a closed environment. Most of the health problems that the garment
workers suffered from arose from the occupational hazards including long working
hours as well as absence of leave facilities. It has been found that the particular nature
of work in garments create various types of health hazards among the garment workers
- such as headache, malnutrition, musculoskeletal pain, eye strain, less appetite, chest
pain, fainting, diarrhoea, hepatitis (jaundice), food poisoning asthma and fungal
infection. The problems related to female garment workers' physical and mental health
is not often spoken about due to pressure of work load. The survey asked questions
about the sources from which workers usually seek health services. The table shows
that the majority (65.6%) of the female workers usually goes to a pharmacy and buys
medicines recommended by the shop-keeper (Table 4.30). Slightly over one-third
(35.9%) stated that they visit government hospital followed by private hospital or clinic
(14.8%). Only 1.6% workers mentioned NGO clinics as their usual source of health
services.
Table 4.30: Visit of health services

Questions Number Percent

Where do you visit for health services?
Pharmacy 84 65.6
Govt. hospital 46 35.9
Private hospital/clinic 19 14.8
NGO clinic 2 1.6
Kabiraj* 1 0.8
Other 2 1.6
Note: Multiple responses. * Kabiraj = indigenous healer

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4.14 Social relations of work
The overarching theme of this survey focused on the interactions between female
garment workers and other staff in the factory. Consequently, the first question of this
theme required respondents to indicate whether or not they had contacted office staff
for facing any problem. Of the 128 respondents, more than half (52.3%) indicated that
they had contacted their supervisors (Table 4.31). Co-workers were also reported by
nearly one third (32.0%) of the sample. Respondents were also questioned about the
level of staff with whom they had made a contact for receiving support services. Nearly
half (47.7%) said that they usually meet with their supervisors if an emergency happens.
Slightly over a quarter (28.0%) said that they look to the line chiefs of the factory for the
purpose of emergency response. Data were also collected with regard to female
workers' attempts in case they encounter some form of harassment, including offensive
comments. When asked who provides them more support services to solve their
problem, more than half (63.3%) claimed that most of the support they usually receive
from their house owner, followed by neighbours (28.9%). A small proportion (1.6%)
reported to have received support from the police.
Table 4.31: Respondents' responses to being contacted with factory staff
Questions Number Percent
Whom do you see first if you face any problem within your factory? (n=128)*
Co-workers 41 32.0
Supervisors 67 52.3
Line Chief 26 20.3
PM/GM 9 7.0
Floor Incharge 11 8.6
Committees in the factory 1 0.8
Other 7 5.5
Who usually provides you most of the support services in case you face any problem within your
factory (e.g. machine, water supply etc.)? (n=128)*
Co-workers 9 7.0
Supervisors 61 47.7
Line Chief 37 28.9
PM/GM 15 11.7
Floor Incharge 12 9.4
Other 40 31.3
Who provides you most support services to solve your problem you face within the family or
community (e.g. harassment, eve teasing, and conflict with husband)? (n=128)*
House owner 81 63.3
Neighbour 37 28.9
Local elite 5 3.9
Police 2 1.6
Local political leader 1 .8
Shopkeeper 1 .8
Councillor 1 .8
Other 24 18.8
*Multiple responses.

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Joining an association or committee offers a worker an unparalleled opportunity to
increase their social opportunities. One of the big reasons workers join an association or
committee is to ensure fair treatment in the workplace. As members, they can have a
strong collective voice for negotiating with employers about pay and wages, work hours,
leave, including benefits. In this survey, workers were asked to state whether or not
they have become a member of any association/organization or committee. Almost all
the workers (98.4%) said they were not the members of any organization or association
(Figure 10). On the contrary, 1.6% of workers report being involved with an organization
or association.

Figure 10: Responents's current membership status

1.60%

Yes
No

98.40%

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 CHAPTER FIVE
WORKING WOMEN, PROBLEMS AND CLAIMING RIGHTS:
QUALITATIVE ANALYSIS

5.1 Challenges in the workplace

There are different types of harassment that the garment workers endure on a daily
basis. Tania (20) from B.Baria recalls that their supervisor beats them. Shathee (19) of
Combine Garment in Bayezid Bostami, Shantinagar, Chittagong notes that assault by
slapping and beating was common in the past and has become less at present times.
She says that, “…sometimes they beat us in the case of low production or bad quality.”
Rima from Star Neat Garment in Bayezid Bostami, Shantinagar, Chittagong had a similar
response. She mentions that, “…when a machine collapsed, we informed our
supervisors, but they didn’t understand the situation; what they want is only work and
more production by any means…they beat us meaninglessly.” The supervisors do not
respond even after being informed about the machine collapsed. Many workers have
resigned from their work for that reason.

Salary and bonuses are major challenges for the workers as they are deprived of it.
According to Haowa (35) of Jahara Fashion at Gazipur Sadar, notes that, “some factories
exclude the bonus and wages . . . in my previous factory 'Duranta', they have been
bothering me in giving my due payments which is about 7,000tk for three months.”
Rima also mentions that the wages aren’t paid in time and overtimes are not properly
paid. In her words, “…when we talked to the manager regarding this matter, they told us
that they are not obliged to pay us for the hours of load shedding.” Extra pressure is
created on the workers so that they cannot reach their assigned production goals.
Shathee from the Combine factory shares a terrible experience regarding the workload,

…they formed a system where one worker has to operate three machines. When one told
them that she can’t work in three machines at a time, the owner said, ‘just fire them
who will say no’.

The workers who protest at the Star Neat factory are forced to resign from work. Rekha
(24) who works at the Peninsula garment in Halisahar, Chittagong says that, workers,
especially females, face many problems and endure them silently. Asia (22) of Farkasam
factory in Halisahar, Chittagong states that, “we should get the salary by 7 th of every
month, but we do not get it in time. There is nothing to do. They give us our salary on
the 9th or 10th of every month. According to Rekha, overtime payment is also delayed

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and not paid in full. As Asia states, “suppose, we worked for 100 hours of overtime, they
discarded 20 hours, and give us payment for 80 hours.” Nobody can protest against
these problems in fear of getting rebuked by the supervisors. Mujahid factory in Comilla
para has a different scenario. Rofia claims (28) this factory is very obedient and pays the
overtime regularly, often paying extra for the overtime.

If the workers are late in their work, the supervisor rebukes them. In the morning, if the
workers feel lethargic, the supervisor rebukes them severely. If the female workers are
late, the supervisors give double tasks to do. The supervisors also threaten to terminate
the workers for not completing their works. According to Srimotee Purnima Rani (28) in
Joyebpur, Gazipur, “supervisors force us to resign due to trivial matters.”

There are notable problems and challenges for female workers at the factories. Taslima
(19) of Tushuka Factory in Gazipur Sadar notes that, the authority excludes workers who
have worked for a long time at the factory so that authority could occupy their bonus or
wages. She says that,

One of our garments workers took leave for her father’s funeral but when she got back
to the work the authority fired her without giving due payment.

In addition to that, overtime wages are being cut off if the authority finds any defect in a
piece of clothing. According to Mukta (26) of Antiquesi Factory at Gazipur Sadar, regular
attendance bonus is often being cut off. The workers do not demand these
opportunities in fear of losing their job. The supervisor is the most powerful person in
dismissing the workers if they demanded entitlements.

Councillor Mobarak Ali states that, a lack of capital flow and strong competition are the
reasons why factories are shutting down in Chittagong. However, mostly small factories
have been shutting down but large factories are not because wealthy investors invest in
large industries.

Childcare problem in the factory

There are widespread shortages of child care in the garment factories of Bangladesh-
the shortages appear to be caused by the factory owners. The 1965 Factory Act in
Bangladesh mandates that if a factory employs more than fifty women, management
must provide childcare facilities. Unfortunately, because factory owners think childcare
centers increase costs and hamper business interests, without legal coercion, they have
shown little interest in adhering to the Factory Act. Some factories have day-care centre
on its premises such as, K.D.S Fashion provides this facility. Many factories do not have

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childcare facility. However, some day care centres only allow children younger than two
years of age. The workers do not have to pay for this service. At the Intermax factory,
there are separate rooms for nurturing children. Female workers get time for breast-
feeding their children’s. In case of health related problems of the children, the factory
also provides medical services.

5.2 Salary and benefit as per government rule

The workers rightly admitted that they do not get paid as per the government. The
owners pay the workers according to their will; not in accordance with government’s
regulation. According to Baby (35) of N.T.K.C. factory in Gazipur, “we don’t know how
much our salary should be according to government rules. In every factory the helper
gets 5300 taka (without overtime).” According to the government, the salary should be
around 10000-11000 thousand taka. The workers receive less than that. The workers get
only around 7000 taka or less. There is no way but to accept such irregularities; as the
workers have to work, they have to abide by the rules. According to Jayeda (25) of P.P.I
factory in Gazipur Sadar, “in my factory overtime wages are not given properly…”

There is exploitation in payment by the Bangladeshi owners compared to the foreign

factory owners. Lipi (26) who works at the Universal Jeans in Halisahar, Chittagong notes
that, they get overtime salary as per their basic salary. Hajera (24) from Young One
Garment also admits that, they get proper overtime payment. According to Asia of
Farkasam Factory, foreign owners are better operators and directors than Bangladeshi
owners.

Rekha (24) of Peninsula garment states that, female workers do not usually get leave,
even after they are being recommended by the medical officer if they are feeling sick.
The supervisor/in-charge does not approve this type of leaves. She says,

A female worker has fallen down today in my office. Then doctor advised two days of
leave with prescribed medicine. But in the office, the authority did not provide her a
certificate and said that if she wants to go now, she will be dismissed. If anybody is
consecutively absent for 3 days, she will lose the job.

Moreover, due to the hot temperature, workers suffer miserably. The aircondition
mostly remains switched off and ceiling/stand fans are not provided to the workers.

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5.3 Harassment in workplace

Physical or sexual harassment is not that prevalent and the factories have strict rules on
that. However, verbal abuse is common among the workers. Supervisors humiliate the
workers if they fall short on production target. Rubi (18) from Bhola who works at the
Herdus Factory near Brick Field Area, Kotwali, Chittagong notes that, supervisors rebuke
women with rough language. If the worker’s express sickness, the supervisors rebuke
them and call them ‘motherfucker’. When the workers protest, the supervisors threaten
them to obey rules. If the workers do not care, the supervisors cut their overtime salary.
Males rarely lay hands on females. According to Asia of Farkasam garment, however,
“male supervisors do like this too. In our factory, age-old aunty was slapped. Probably
she did not understand the way how to work properly. Another woman was ousted
from the factory.” The male supervisors are allowed to beat a female worker if they
protest or fail to reach production target or do not understand the orders of the
supervisors. According to Adori (19) of Style Craft,

If there is any harassment, it occurs outside of the factory, not within the factory. If any
harassment occurs inside the factory, the respective person will be dismissed.

According to Jhuma (18) of Jewel Fashion in Gazipur Sadar, physical harassment usually
never occurs. However, there may be instances where the higher level officers or duty
guards or in-charge officers try to engage in an intimate relationship with someone with
good looks. Those girls enjoy better facilities who accept such proposals; if they refuse
to engage in such relationships, the officers do not treat them well and punish them by
assigning more tasks. According to Salma (26) who works in a Korean factory mentions
that,
If anyone including higher level officers builds up an intimate relationship or has an affair
with the workers, both of them will be dismissed if the authority knows that.

The respondents of the Lakshmipura, Gazipur Sadar, Gazipur state that, they do not face
any exploitation or humiliation in their factories. If any trivial humiliation occurs, that’s
only because of the workers’ wrong doing of any production activities.

According to Syed Sultan Uddin Ahmmed, Asst. Executive Director of BILS/LO-FTF

Project, both occupational security, and security regarding harassment and
discrimination are important. He states,

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 A worker should have the rights of secure working place, accommodation and
transportation, where as we only observe the development in workplace security which is
really significant.

5.4 Casual and maternity leave

All the workers of the factories who participated in the study from Bayezid Bostami,
Shantinagar, Chittagong stated that they do get maternity leaves. At the K.D.S factory,
female workers can work up-to 7 months of their pregnancy and after that they can
have three months of leave. They will get paid when they join after an additional three
months. Nazma (23) from Montahar factory in Bayezid Bostami, Shantinagar,
Chittagong, however, admitted they do not get paid during maternity leave. Salma (26)
from M.M Garments in Gazipur Sadar states that, “supervisor/in charges do not approve
our sick leaves . . . if anyone took a leave without approval, they will fire them without
giving any wages.” Shathee from Combine garment also says that,

We can get the leave but we do not get paid…we get leave for two months before and
after childbirth.

Morjina of Intermax and Hajera of Sytle Craft Factory in Gazipur Sadar admit that the
factories provide maternity leave and bonuses properly. Hajera notes that, they get
three months and 22 days as maternity leaves. The authority provides half bonus during
pregnancy period and the rest of it after the joining back in the factory.

5.5 Male-female discrimination in workplace

As far as work is concerned, males and females get equal pay. There is no discrimination
in terms of behaviour as well. According to Shapna (23) of K.D.S Garment in Bayezid
Bostami, Shantinagar, Chittagong, opportunities are equal in workplace; however,
opportunities for women are rare. Both male and female workers are not allowed to
wear sandals during work so that the cloths do not get stained or dirty. However, in
Bengali Factories, women cannot put sandal on, but men have opportunities to do so.
According to Mst. Amena Begum (32) in Joyebpur, Gazipur,

If a female worker put on shoes on floor, the in-charge asks her to put off the shoes. If
she protests saying that if males can do, so we [females] will do. The in-charge marks her
to give punishment after work.

Male workers get angered in terms of salary, overtime, transport system and others,
and make damages to office belongings; this is why the authority is reluctant to employ

72
male workers. As females are soft-minded, tolerable, and easily submissive and rarely
protest, the authority chooses them. Due to salary related inconveniences, male
workers have vandalized the factory. According to Parvin (26) of G.S. Factory in
Halisahar, Chittagong,

Workers wait till the 10th of the month for salary. Then they burst into anger and stop
working.

Rekha of Peninsula in Halisahar, Chittagong points out that, there are so many
complexities in becoming a supervisor that women are somewhat reluctant to be a
supervisor. Asma (35) of Sparrow factory in Gazipur Sadar notes that, both male and
female workers are treated equally. However, “those who know the better processes of
production and give qualitative products, they get better salary.” According to Taslima
of Tushuka garment, "The determining factors of unequal treatment are working abilities of
the workers."

According to Shathee, “…as they couldn’t dismiss you directly, they’ll find some reason
in your work place and throw you out.” Male workers have more courageous than
females. Hence, male workers can protest against injustice. If a male worker is
dismissed, he may quit the job. He can manage another one even the factory is far
away, but in case of the female worker it is quite impossible. As a result, many female
workers are terrified of not getting another job at another factory. Haowa of Jahara
Fashion and Jhuma (18) of Jewel Fashion claim that, opportunities are not equal for both
males and females. Male workers get their gate pass during working hours while female
workers do not get it. Male workers who can manage supervisors will get more facilities
such as not working for overtime. Females do not get such privilege; rather they get
threatened to be fired.

5.6 Control over income

The female workers have no freedom in spending money. The statement of Rofia from
Mujahid factory says it all: “We hand over our salaries to our husband except some hand
money.”

Rima (18) from Star Neat Factory also suffice for that,

This is what happens in most of our locality…husbands’ force their wives to work and
they only eat & sleep…some of them gamble…if the wives protest, husbands beat them.

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Shapna of K.D.S factory brings out a better scenario though. According to her, “all
husbands are not similar in this case, some of them who are sincere, use the money for
family expenditure.” Most of the participants mentioned that they hand over their
salary to their husband and thus lose the freedom to spend the money.

5.7 Compensation for accident and sickness

Asia of Farkasam states that, there is no point in arguing with the supervisor for
compensation due to the fear of joblessness. According to Hajera (24) of Young One
Factory Halisahar, Chittagong,

…in case of any accident or unexpected happenings occurs, the workers get medical
services from doctors who are available in the factory. The doctors provide services, but
at the end of the month they apply medical charges on the workers’ salary.

Rekha from Peninsula factory at Halisahar, Chittagong says that,

I don’t know what happens in other factories but our factory does not provide money. If
anybody of our factory gets sick or gets injured, we may collect donation from every
floor. Both of male and female workers donate.

Rofia (28) from Mujahid factory in Bayezid Bostami, Shantinagar, and Chittagong notes
that the factory compensates the employees in cases of an accident/injury. Shapna from
the K.D.S. factory, on the other hand, says that in case of accident or injury they inform
the supervisor and the supervisor informs the manager and the owner. If the owner is
convinced, only then s/he will give compensation to the workers otherwise not.

According to Haowa of Jahara Fashon at Gazipur Sadar, if anything happens to the

workers the authority will take them to the hospital and provide little money for
treatment. Mukta of Antiquesi garment in the same area says that,

The factory does not provide anything to the workers who die outside the factory; but if
anyone dies inside the factory they will give compensation…no one knows the amount.

5.8 Resolving workplace complaints

Shapna Akhter of K.D.S. garments at Bayezid Bostami, Shantinagar, Chittagong said that,
they state their claim to the ranking officers. There are in-charge, elder manager
brothers, and supervisors in their garment. They mainly manage leave applications.
However, there’s no benefit in telling them while supervisors are being abusive to the

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workers. The workers often complain to the in-charge who belongs to a higher-post
than the supervisor. The in-charge usually calls in the supervisor and informs the
managers to handle the complaints. Whoever is guilty, the workers or the supervisors
will be under consideration of the judgment process. The supervisors or line chief
rebuke the workers who cannot deliver products in time. They (supervisor or line chief)
are bound to the factory owner. They are also get rebuked by the factory owner.
Hajera of Young One located at Halisahar, Chittagong says that,

We place our demands to the supervisor. The supervisor goes to the technician. If
technicians are unable to solve the issue, then they will go the manager.

There is a welfare committee at Young One Factory that addresses the owners’ needs.
The workers of the Fashion Point Factory see the doctors in the factory for health
problems. If they are not much helpful, then they sent the workers to the Kona Bari
Clinic and bear the cost of the treatment. Jahara Fashion, however, isn’t that much
helpful. Haowa notes that,

There is no one to help…supervisors and P.M. will grant us leave…there are doctors who
are not very useful to us; they’ll only provide us with some medicine.

Conflict between owners and workers

Rifa from Hridoy Fashion near Brick Field Area, Kotwali, Chittagong admits that, the
authority makes the workers work more at night shifts, pays the salary late (often one
month late), assigns more sewing tasks, and makes them work overtime without pay. If
they worked for 90 hours, they may get payment of 80 hours. The authority cuts money
of 10 hours. Unfortunately, workers do nothing to protest. If they do protest, they get
beaten by the people supportive of the owners such as the line supervisors. Male
workers are more violent, and can vandalize; however, they refrain from doing that in
fearing of losing the job.

The workers do not count the overtime. The supervisors have the list and they are
responsible for counting the overtime. In some garments (e.g. Dipu Garments), workers
do not get paid properly for overtime, as the supervisors do not keep the records of
overtime.

5.9 Labour leaders and their role in factory

Nazma (35) and Tasliam (20) of Style Craft Factory at Gazipur Sadar mention that, they
have labour leaders who are general workers like themselves. When there is any

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problem, the workers go to the supervisors and in-charge. If they are reluctant or unable
to solve the problems, the workers seek assistance from the labour leaders. Sometimes
they can help, sometimes they fail. Labour leaders can be male or female who is elected
by general voting system. Labour leaders do not represent the welfare committee.
According to Rabeya (30) of Intermax Garment in Gazipur Sadar,

When we get sick or need any causal or entitled leaves, he helps us to grant the leave and
medical services. He also stands besides us in any types of problem.

Awareness about labour leaders and election process

Workers are aware about the labour leaders in their garments (particularly in the
formation of participatory committee). However, they often do not know them
personally or know their names as the workers do not get the chance to be acquainted
with the labour leaders. Ruma from RSB factory at Brick Field Area, Kotwali, Chittagong
says that, “helpers, operators and we common workers have made them leader.” The
labour leaders are elected through voting and workers have the right to cast their vote
in sealed ballots. The ballots do not have the names of the leaders; only signs are
available to the workers for voting. However, the leaders can run their campaign using
their names on posters. Labour leaders hold posts such as cutting, quality assurance,
helper and operator. However, there are no labour leaders at the level of the
supervisor.

5.10 Women leaders in the workplace

At the RSB factory located in Kotwali Chittagong, they have one female labour leader
and one male leader. Female leaders are also elected by the voting system. According to
Ruma of RSB factory, there are benefits to electing a female leader, as women have
some problems that cannot be expressed to men. She notes,

I am feeling abdominal pain, I am having problems with my husband…these things cannot be

shared with male leaders.

Labour leaders' capacity to solve problem in factory

Ruma (25) of RSB factory notes that, labour leaders tackle the problems of the workers.
She says, “labour leaders have been playing roles in terms of managing leaves.” Labour
leaders secured three day leaves for the workers against one day of work. The workers
do not have the capacity to meet BEPZA. So they present their demands to labour
leaders, and the leaders present those to the BEPZA authority. The leaders try to work

76
for the welfare of the workers; however, it is not possible for them to address all the
workers' demands.

5.11 Role of welfare or participatory committee

Hajera (35) of Style Craft located in Gazipur Sadar notes that, “the welfare committee
looks after the women’s problems. They grant leave if it is needed, handle any problems
which are created in-line. If the officers or in-charges rebuke any worker and he informs
the committee, then the committee takes action against the officers or in-charges.”

According to Fatema (25) of N.T.K.C factory in Gazipur, the welfare committee’s role is
to manage leaves. If a female worker gets sick, welfare committee sends them to the
hospital. The welfare committee is formed by the factory owner; workers have no right
to vote. In the N.T.K.C garment, there are two female and four-five male members in
the welfare committee. Banu (28) of Tushuka factory says that,

There is a complain box in the toilet. If the workers face any problem within factory they
can write a letter. Every week the complaint box is opened. The welfare committee tries
to minimize the problem. For example, if there is no sandal in the toilet or no soap,
workers can write a complain letter.

The participatory committee is under the control of the owner. Shathee Akhter of
Combine Garment of Bayezid Bostami, Shantinagar, Chittagong claims that

If anyone faces any problem they have to inform the supervisor... but, there is no one
from the worker’s wing; everyone is from owner’s wing.

Workers’ participatory committee (WPC) or welfare committee take sick employees to

the doctors. The factory welfare committee is under the control of the owner and
operate within the power given to them by the owner.

5.12 Role of civil society and political leaders in problem mitigation

Syed Sultan Uddin Ahmmed, Asst. Executive Director of BILS/LO-FTF Project opines that,
civil society usually works with the occupational environment of the factories. However,
“…other issues like working hours, accommodation and transportation facilities remain
deficit in large quantities and development is needed.” He admits that, for enhancing
development in this sector, what civil society is doing at the moment is not sufficient. It
is the responsibilities of Trade Unions to claim RMG workers’ legal rights and
entitlements.

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Taslima (19) of Tushuka garment in Gazipur Sadar claims that the councillor and the civil
society do not intervene in the problems that the workers face inside the factories.
Moreover, if the factory knows that the workers went to the councillor's office, they will
terminate me immediately. According to Mr. Sultan of BILS,

In the case of fatal accidents or injuries, we provide help by every means like sending rescue
team the inspection department about the accident, and find out the explanations regarding
the cause of accidents, take necessary measures to prevent the repetition of such incident.
We mainly work for preventing the accidents.

According to Nasir Uddin Chowdhury, ex Vice President of BGMEA and owner of Eastern
Apparel Ltd., Chittagong, civil society has played a crucial role in paving the right way for
garment industries. After the ‘Rana Plaza’ disaster, civil society has built up pressure for
the factories to maintain the international standards of buildings. As international
standards are imposed, some garment owners have been shutting down their business
due to lack of compliance with international standards.

What are the challenges civil society faces?

There are problems such as conflict between owners and workers, stagnant salaries, and
unpaid overtime and maternity leave. These are challenges for the civil society as well.
Civil society can put pressure on the owners to pay off the workers even if there’s no
work order. Civil society groups can take the lead in helping workers formulate their
demands, elect bargaining representatives, come up with a bargaining strategy and
maintain solidarity among the workforce. They can also help workers by utilizing social
media to put pressure on factory owners to support workers’ legitimate demands. The
effort will be completed if civil society groups work together with trade unions and
other stakeholders. In addition, civil society should think about the ability of the owners
as well to provide them with required infrastructure.

Civil society's role to make factory owners accountable

By following the legal framework, the workers must go to the labour court for
complaints against the owners. There are pressures from C.B.A and non-C.B.A
organizations so that the owners cannot decrease the salary suddenly. The garment
owners have to comply with the C.B.A and non-C.B.A demands regarding facilities and
work pressure of the workers. Child labour rights are also in place to ensure that
children are not being exploited at the garments. BGMEA ensure the minimum wage for
the workers, especially female garment workers.

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To bridge the communication gap, civil society is continuing welfare activities. Keeping
bad terms between owners and workers, production cannot be successful. Hence,
communication is very important in this sector. It is imperative for entrepreneurs to
survive in the business sector. However, Syed Sultan Uddin Ahmmed of BILS is sceptical
that, civil society only can talk outside the factories but could not reach their helping
hand inside the factories. Civil society can only discuss about the regulations and
societal problems of the workers with the policy makers but it could not help to
accelerate the development process. According to the labour law of Bangladesh, only
Trade Union can uphold the rights of maintaining the regulations and policies.

Role of civil society in enforcing workers' rights and entitlements

According to Mobarak Ali, who is a Councillor of Chittagong City Corporation, mentions

that elected councillors are part of the civil society and are able to execute government
orders. However, the administrative part of civil society does not have the institutional
responsibility at the local level to facilitate garment workers’ rights and entitlements.
NGOs can act locally for the sake of garment workers. Workers contact the NGOs when
they face salary related problems, maternity leaves, and etc. The councillors can also
negotiate between the owners and the workers regarding termination, salary dispute,
and etc. Thana (police station) administration can also pressurize the owners for such
issues and rights.

5.13 Has social status increased after joining garment factory?

The workers have been empowered and joining the garment factory enhanced their
social status and value in the entire family. A new trend is noticeable that the female
workers of the garment are less interested to marry. Shahanara (25) of Style Craft
located in Gazipur Sadar believes that,

Females are now well-off to support themselves and their family. They have now learnt how
to get income and maintain the family. That’s why there is little necessity to get married.
Because, sometimes married life is full of sufferings.

As the females work with male workers in factories, society thinks that female garments
workers are doing some kind of disrespectful job. Taslima (20) of Style Craft factory
admits that, the social outlook towards the female garments workers are, in a word,
'despicable or non-respectable.'

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Adori (19) of Style Craft thinks that, as many people are entering into this sector than
ever before, the negative attitudes are changing these days. Village people
condemn/criticize female garments workers. Because, they think, by entering into the
garments, female workers do not maintain their religiosity properly. They become
exposed and do not offer prayers. Many female workers dishonour their husbands. Even
they engage in extra-marital relationships and run away with their boyfriends. That is
why the elderly people of rural area condemn female workers. But urban people usually
prioritize them and their work.

Factory preference towards younger girls

According to Taslima of Tushuka factory, the authority prefers young girls to aged
women. Adori, Nazma and Taslima of Style Craft at Gazipur Sadar claim that, “there are
available young girls and they are more competent than the elders.”

The authority definitely prefers the younger ones. Young workers are good looking,
educated and also presentable to the buyer. Weight, height, age and physical fitness
have become important factors for getting a job in a garments factory.

5.14 How can female workers overcome their problems?

The female workers bring their problems to the authority’s notice, but the authority
often does not respond. According to the government, the owner has to pay half of the
workers’ salary as bonus but only gives them one third of the salary as bonuses. Shapna
(23) from B.Baria working at K.D.S. Factory says, “We have to endure these as we work
for our living.”

According to Councillor of Chittagong City Corporation, Mobarak Ali, labours should

perform their mandatory 8 hours’ duty that is prescribed in the Bangladesh Labour Law.
In most cases, workers are forced to do duty from 8.00am – 8.00pm. In addition,
overtime is mandatory which cannot be mandatory. Overtime will have to be decreased.
If the supervisors, in-charges, and managers were compassionate with the workers then
they can get the courage to protest against the owner and solve their problems.

What is the possible solution?

Nazma (23) of Montahar factory in Bayezid Bostami, Shantinagar, Chittagong believes

they can rise together for a movement. However, her fellow worker Taslima believes,

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 No outcomes will derive from movements. If Nazma quits the job, many Nazmas are
waiting for the replacement. Owners are saving money by oppressing us.

She also thinks, there is no solution to the problems, as they are poor. They just have to
tolerate the oppression because of the demands of their family members depends on
their income.

Emergency exit during fire or accident

Salma of M.M. Garments in Gazipur Sadar states that, “every factory has this
facility…these gates remain open.” In every month, we exercise this. The factories
conduct fire drills every month. Taslima recalls that they have not faced any accidents in
the Style Craft factory yet as there were training exercises in the factory. The authority
trained the workers how to use emergency exit staircase. The trainers advised the
workers not to panick and not to run at the time of a fire accident or earthquake. Both
Hajera and Rabeya note that, they have been trained by the factory authority to
extinguish fire, how to exit the building safely using the emergency exit. Halima of
Fashion Point claims that the factory does not have any emergency fire exits, but
provides fire execution training. Sonia (23) from FAIJA in Gazipur disagrees that,

My factory does not provide any fire execution training… may be due to the loss of
production.

5.15 Role of EKATA Samity in creating awareness

Many of the workers did not know the locations of Sadar Hospital, about which they
came to know from the EKATA solidarity group. CARE EKATA created awareness among
female workers that males and females are not getting equal rights. Male can be the
supervisors, but females cannot be promoted up to that point. CARE EKATA pointed out
why females are lagging behind male workers. They advised the workers to be
courageous. Workers have learnt that they can have DPS accounts and how they can
deposit money for their children’s education. Workers also learnt to express their
aspirations and expectations. EKATA Samity has created awareness among the workers
to save money and be cautious about the workers’ rights. The workers also participate
in collective negotiations and protest of which they did not dare in the past.

The workers do not want to work in the garments sector anymore as they cannot
endure the pressure of work. They want training so that they could work in other
sectors as well. Some of them want training to get promoted from helper to operator.
The workers want increase in salary, minimal slang use, and day care facilities.

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5.16 Formation of trade union and workers' awareness

There is no trade union in the Style Craft factory. None of the workers heard about a
trade union. The workers of Fashion Point, Antiquesi, Jahara Fashion, and Kader
Garments of Gazipur Sadar are aware of trade unions. However, trade unions cannot be
formed inside the factory. It has to be formed outside. Mukta (26) of Antiquesi Factory
notes that,

Trade unions help us to increase our salary by negotiating with the owner. They will help
to earn the job facilities when a worker could not reach the… they [trade union] held
outside the factory.

The workers feel the necessity to form a trade union. They cannot form a trade union
for their personal or partial group demand; an integrated approach is required to form
one.

Nasir Uddin Chowdhury doesn’t oppose the idea of trade union in the garment sector. A
trade union is good as it helps workers to ensure their rights, and make them dutiful.
But he is sceptical who is going to create trade unions as the workers are not conscious
enough. The history of our country’s trade union is not pleasant. This is why he is fearful
about trade unions. He notes, “trade union destroyed our jute sector.”

According to Mst. Amena Begum (32) in Joydebpur, Gazipur,

If we had trade unions in garments, we might get many opportunities as such: we should
demand more salary, less working hours, less tiresome work. Moreover, we would get more
time to cook, to take rest. Sometimes we have to perform duty up to 3.00am at night. It is
unbearable for us. That salary we get can merely cover the expenses of our family.

According to Chittagong City Corporation Councillor Mobarak Ali, it will not be easy to
operate a factory with trade union motives according to the Bangladesh Labour Law.
There is little opportunity to make trade unions. Also the workers are not conscious
enough about their rights. Hence, establishing trade unions will hamper the growth of
the garment sector. Among private garments, K.D. Group has formed trade unions in its
garment.

Joining trade unions is strictly prohibited by the garments. Halima (20) of Fashion Point
states that,

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 If my owner knows that I have taken the membership card of a Trade union, he will
dismiss me. So, we could not go there for our fear of losing our job.

All the other participants agreed that the factories must not know that they are part of
trade unions. Haowa of Jahara Fashon believes that, if the workers talk about joining
trade unions, the authority will think that the workers are involved in politics and will
engage in protest or movement in the future. However, trade unions do encourage
workers to go them in case of emergency or termination.

According to Syed Sultan Uddin Ahmmed of BILS,

The government must play an affirmative role in establishing trade unions and ensure
the job security so that the workers will not lose their job by joining the trade union.

Civil society will provide legal support to the workers and also bring attention of the
government so that they could get social security – these issues are neither in any
program nor the government pays attention to this. Most importantly, trade unions
should be formed structurally, not individual-cantered.

5.17 Challenges to implement labour law in the garment sector

According to Mr. Sultan of BILS, the first challenge is to establish a trade union. Trade
unions can create pressure on the owner and government. Another pressure is the fact
that the industrial sector has been taken as complementary to national self-interest. He
states that,

…when civil society came to protest for the workers' demands and lack of rights, we were
branded for doing ‘self-opposing activities’. Wherein, the factory owners and the
government failed to bring up their responsibility, if we, the civil society come forward to
talk, they will say that we are terrifying the industrial sector as well as the nation.

5.18 Government's initiatives to monitor labour law implementation

Mobarak Ali firmly believes that a monitoring body is needed not only for the garment
sector but also where trade union exists. Using a mobile court, the government can take
initiatives. Getting solutions from the labour court should be an easy process. Labour
rights are not limited in garments; it is for all labours. To help workers, the government
can create an authoritarian administration by making a post in councillors' office where
recruitment can be finalized by a regulatory body. The Ministry of Labour and labour
related departments can proceed the matters. Making law enforcing agencies like RAB
or a Police department for the workers, the government can form a body to monitor
these activities.

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 CHAPTER SIX
SUMMARRY AND CONCLUSIONS

The findings of the study show that female workers bring their demands to the
supervisors, in-charge, and line managers and these people then bring those demands
to the higher authorities. In most cases, the supervisors exercise supreme power over
the workers. There is a welfare committee in the factories. However, their role is to get
the workers to medical services or to ensure sick leaves. Usually the labour leaders are
elected by the votes of the workers, but the leaders seldom work for the interest of the
workers. There are a participatory committee as well, which is similar to the welfare
committee. In a disappointing outcome, the majority of the workers who participated in
the baseline survey have not heard of trade unions at all, let alone getting themselves
engaged in one. It is a major setback for the workers as they have no negotiation
capacity or to reach the owners with their demands.

There are no significant differences between Gazipur and Chittagong in terms of how
the workers perform their daily activities and how they are being rewarded. There are
one or two exceptions in each area where the workers are happy with the facilities they
get. Mostly, the workers are not at all happy with how they are being managed by their
supervisors. They are in constant fear of losing their jobs as more and more workers are
ready to replace the garment workers. The garment factories also manipulate this fear
in exploiting the workers. Several participants attending the FGD explained that
organising female garment workers who come ‘from the field to the factory’ is ‘very
difficult’. Their social conditioning is highly relevant to their fear of ‘organisation’ and for
the women concerned, there are multiple layers of risk and disadvantage to contend
with, beginning with their status on entry to factory work.

The civil society can play a crucial role in bridging the gap between the workers and the
owners. However, the civil society falls short on their capacity to intervene the issues
that occur inside the factory. However, the civil society along with other government
authorities can put pressure on the garments to make them follow the international
guidelines of labour laws. The major obstacle is to ensure that labour laws are properly
implemented. The complaints workers have are straightforward and they are happy
with the little things done right. The workers want their salaries on time, proper
bonuses, voluntary overtime schedule, no verbal and physical harassment, mandatory
leaves, paid maternity leaves, compensation in case of an in-house accident, and
occupation security. The government can certainly look into these issues to ensure that
the existing policies are being implemented properly.

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Awareness training programs, which are being adopted by several EKATA centres, are
changing the scenario for the better. Women garment workers have started
participating in an awareness program, in a project led by CARE. The EKATA centres act
as a forum for advice and support on any problem that garment workers wish to take to
it. As well as being a source of solidarity and support at EKATA centers, it is a source of
advice and guidance on every subject from domestic violence to employment rights.
Over the year, the centers have educated the garments workers about their rights and
entitlements. The workers are aware of their rights and what they should get from the
workplace. The workers have learnt to raise their voice for their rights. It is high time for
the government along with the civil society and other welfare committees to make sure
that the labour laws are being implemented properly. There has been overwhelming
support for establishing trade union at the factories from the experts. However, there
are a few doubts as well, whether the workers in Bangladesh are ready to be part of
trade union or not. A question to address that dilemma, when will workers learn about
trade unions if they are not part of one?

The female garment workers under this study face major challenges inside the factories
starting with their work periods, forced overtimes, delay in monthly salaries and
bonuses. The work hours they have to endure are not compatible with the international
labour standards. Generally, the workers have to work at least from 8 am-8 pm.
Overtime is not a choice the workers can decide on. Overtime is imposed as if it is part
of their regular work hours. Not complying with overtime requirements of the factory
leads to termination of the workers. If not termination, the least the workers receive in
return is verbal abuse and harassment from the supervisors, floor in-charge, and line
managers. Sexual harassment is not that prevalent as per the responses from the
garment workers. However, it may be the case that, sexual harassments go unreported
due to the fear of being fired from the job without a prior notice. The workers are
totally dependent on their income from the garments, and the garments authority does
play that card each and every time they have a chance to.

As per the government regulation, the minimum salary should be around Tk. 7,000 or
more and around Tk. 10,000-11,000 including overtime. Much to the disappointment,
the workers only receive around Tk. 5,000-6,000 as monthly salary, including overtime.
The monthly salary should be deposited within the 7th of every month. However, in
most cases, with the exceptions of a few, the salary payment is delayed at least up to
one month. The workers often have to pursue rigorously to secure their much deserved
monthly salary. The overtime payment is at the owner’s will. Usually, the workers never
get the full payment of their overtime. A certain portion of the overtime hours are being
cut-off by the supervisors. The workers also do not keep track of their time and are

85
being doubly exploited. The workers who maintain a close relationship with the
supervisors can get away without doing any overtime.

Getting a casual leave is awfully difficult at the factories, may it be Bangladeshi or

foreign owned factories. Sick leaves are hard to come by. Most of the factories do have
some facilities and in-house doctors to address workers’ needs. However, the workers
face harassment and trouble even after getting recommended by the medical officials.
Most factories bear medical expenses inside the factory for the workers, with a few
exceptions. Workers are often rebuked if they seek sick leaves and are being threatened
to be sacked if they fall short on the production target. The production goal is set in a
way that the workers never get any free time. The scenario is better for maternity
leaves. The factories try to comply with the needs of the pregnant women. Usually the
pregnant workers are allowed to work up to 7 months into their pregnancy and then
they get around 100 days of maternity leave. Most of the factories provide the
maternity leave with pay, some get the payment when they return to work, and a few of
the factories do not compensate the maternity leave, contravening section 57 of the
Labour Protection Act of 1998, which requires that employers pay at least 45 days out of
a potential 90 days of maternity leave. Some members stated that if the woman does
decide to return to the factory after giving birth, commonly she will find that her
position has been given to someone else, and has effectively been turned away from her
from job without severance pay.

Male-female discrimination is not that evident. However, there are a few recurring
instances that the female workers do not consider as discriminatory. Majority of the
factories do not allow workers to wear sandals on the floor during work hours.
However, male workers do get the privilege of wearing sandals that the female workers
cannot enjoy. The reason male workers are not warned is because they can revolt any
time, get violent, and vandalize the office. The female workers are quite the opposite.
They refrain from getting violent and want to just finish their daily tasks. There are
inherent reasons behind it. The female workers know that it would be difficult for them
to get another job if they are being terminated while the male workers can get a job
within a short period using their social networks.

Workers interviewed during FGD stated that supervisors prefer for female workers
because of their reduced likelihood of unrest, which enable them to do more delicate
and intricate work, and their higher patience levels. Many researchers have
documented why factory management prefers female workers over male workers. It is
owing to the perception that females could work with greater patience and docility. In
an earlier study it was revealed that women performed better than men, and that their
'sincerity' and 'law-abiding nature' made them more desirable employees.54 Women’s

86
entry into the labour force in the RMG sector was further facilitated by the historical
participation of Bangladeshi women in sewing and dressmaking at home.

This study has found that a major proportion of female workers remain financially
dependent on their husband, even though they are earning income from jobs in the
garment industry. Nearly 54% of women stated that they hand over their income to
their husbands. While married women traditionally have tended to give their earnings
to their husbands, some women (mostly single) are more likely to feel empowered by
their earnings. About 28% of women said that they can enjoy freedom in spending their
own income.46 This study underscores a strong need for improving female workers’
financial literacy and access to micro savings accounts. Both would enhance their
financial independence and improve their ability to contribute to supporting their
families via safer remittance processes.

With regard to cost of living, women garment-factory workers spent on average Tk.
2,348.39 of their income on housing. Women could increase their savings and
remittances if safe, lower-cost housing options were made available to them. In this
context, government can give emphasize on making gender-segregated housing options,
particularly for young female migrants.

The findings of the survey show that on average female workers have been staying in
the RMG sector for 4 years and they tend to stay in the same position (mostly helper or
operator), with nearly 51% reporting an operator position. The survey data show that
married women constituted the vast majority of garment workers (75.0%) and the
average age of the respondents is 25 years and nearly 20% are classified in that age
range of 30-35 years, therefore demonstrating less interest in leaving a stable job.
Participants during FGD reveal that female workers worry more about familial
obligations, therefore have much lower turnover rates, and less likely to have
occupational mobility. Several female workers in the FGD said they had no interest in
the position of supervisors, and had no thoughts about their future five or ten years
from now. One area of explanation provided by the participants that women do not
want to have high responsible positions. For the position of supervisors, the hours were
too long, the pay was salaried, which meant no over-time, and they did not want the
responsibility. Various factors affect the opportunities of female factory workers to
advance in the workplace, but some of the latent potential in the workforce can be
addressed through education and training which would improve the ability of women
workers to obtain jobs with more responsibility and pay. Factories themselves also
should benefit from the development of a more motivated, educated workforce with
higher productivity and retention.

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Workers' responses demonstrate that on average they have monthly savings of Tk.
17,126.30 and on average, these workers contributed about Tk. 6,730 to their family.
The data show that the respondents in Gazipur were found to be receptive to the value
of having bank accounts. About half (51.6%) of the women have savings and less than
half have direct deposit to their bank accounts. A small proportion (13.6%) of women
has admitted to have a direct deposit of their savings to sanchayapatra.

Female workers also commonly required by a factory owner to work over time, which
they perceive as a desirable commodity. In this study, the average overtime working
hour is 2.5 hours a day. On average, female workers received approximately Tk.
2,415.25 per month for overtime when legally they should be receiving more per hour.
Though wages in the garment sector are low, and effectively below subsistence level,
they are better than what women could earn in agriculture or elsewhere in the informal
sector.

The women workers participating in the FGD stated that some oowners have a tendency
to pay salary and overtime allowance separately. Employers mostly pay salaries on time
but keep overtime allowance in hand so that if a worker leaves a job after receiving a
monthly salary, she/he cannot expect overtime allowance at the time of leaving. Many
factories give workers a specific target of production. If they fail to achieve the target for
any reason (e.g. due to machine failure), they should not be blamed. In such instances,
the owners should take the responsibility for not being able to provide inputs like
machine or power. Workers are victims of such situations and their overtime allowance
is deducted for failure to achieve targets.

An issue raised in the KII is the abusive provision of the Labour Act 2006 (sections 23[4],
24 and 27). For example, Section 23(4) provides a list of activities which is defined as
'misconduct' and no compensation is payable if a worker is dismissed for much
'misconduct'. These include willful insubordination, theft, fraud or dishonesty, taking or
giving bribes, habitual late attendance or absence, without leave, habitual breach of
rules, riotous or disorderly behaviour, habitual negligence, habitual breach of discipline,
tempering with records etc. The owners allegedly take opportunity of this legal
provision and dismiss workers for frivolous reasons.

Our observation shows that most factory workers live nearby the factory compound and
are restricted to their immediate surroundings. They have little contact with family, are
isolated from the community, and enjoy little although they do find time to socialize
with colleagues after work hour or weekends and in OIKKO centre.

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Most female workers are not given any appointment letter. Previous study also found
that factory owners often give appointment letter and pay slips that do not actually
reflect the amount of money given to the worker.5,11-13 Moreover, the owner does not
indicate money subtracted for food, housing, electricity and the like. Employers may
also write the pay slips to make it seem as if they are paying more than they do so that
they appear to be in line with the minimum wage. Out of the 128 female workers
interviewed in Gazipur district, around half (53.1%) said that they had received
appointment letter. None of these individuals had a job description letter. Not issuing an
Identification (ID) card or an appointment letter is a problem for workers. While
switching jobs, they cannot produce evidence of job experience due to lack of
appointment letters and ID cards. They cannot take legal recourse in court in cases of
unfair dismissal or entrenchment. The owners can simply deny the existence of a worker
by not issuing an ID card and appointment letter. This indicates a disparity in workplace
power relations - a countervailing force of organised labour at the point of production
may sweep away the power relations. Moreover, the job insecurity created owing to
lack of ID card within the factory leads the workers to work long hours when work is
available and to a subsequent downward pressure on wages because workers are willing
to take any job that is available.

The study shows that female garment workers significantly contribute to their families
economies back home through remittances. Workers reported contributing an average
of Tk. 6,730.20 per month to their families. In this study, only around 11% of workers
indicated that they were remitting money home for family expenditure. The low salary
received by garment workers has a significant impact on workers’ ability to live in
humane conditions and to provide for basic needs. Workers are often unable to
maintain a decent diet, live in adequate housing, or provide for their families and save
for the future.

Although Bangladesh has a relatively protective legal and policy framework, the reality
of the garment sector in this country shows that there is a lack of good governance and
still it is a long way to go before it meets international labour standards.55 This is in part
due to a lack of proper monitoring and enforcement of the labour law by the Labour
Officer. It appears that it is relatively easy for employers to ignore or violate the
provisions in the legal framework, resulting in widespread and systematic human rights
violations. Previous research on the labour situation (RMG sector) in Bangladesh found
that a substantial proportion of regular female workers in the country were denied both
paid annual leave and sick leave.56 The garment industries run by foreign investors tend
to comply with the Labour Law more than the locally owned factories. A general
disregard for the law and for labour rights continues to be a problem for local owners or
non-compliance factories. There is a general lack of adequate knowledge and

89
understanding of the law on the part of female factory workers, including of the rights
to which they are entitled and the protections provided by the law. As a result, workers’
lack of knowledge about their rights may diminish the efficiency of the dispute
resolution mechanisms.

The working conditions in garment factories, and their impacts on the health of garment
workers, continue to be some of the most pressing concerns with regards to the
garment industry in Bangladesh, and an area where urgent reform is needed. The
findings of the study show that nearly half (45.3%) either have ever experienced and/or
witnessed accident or injury during their time in garment industry. This study exposes
some worrying statistics with regards to workplace conditions and specifically safety
concerns. For instance, nearly one-third (28.1%) of the workers said that employers kept
emergency doors locked during working hours, putting workers at risk of death in the
event of a fire, although about 90% stated that their factories have emergency exit in
case of fire or other emergency.

Within the factory context, power lies in the hands of management, particularly among
supervisors. Female workers are likely to be subject to bullying and harassment at work,
and arbitrary managerial decisions may see them dismissed for no reason. As revealed
from FGDs, verbal intimidation is common but there are also rarer instances of physical
violence (3.6%). One World Action found that gender-based violence is frequent in the
areas around the factories. When asked if female workers ever experienced harassment
in the current factory, nearly one-fourth (21.9%) reported occurrences of such
harassment. Most women working at garment factories in Bangladesh have left their
homes in order to work in the factories, the majority of which are located in and around
Dhaka, Gazipur and other major cities such as Chittagong. Unable to afford higher
quality housing, they rent wrecked houses or rooms to share with large numbers of
people. Sometimes, women have to work in crowded factories and they experience
harassment from male colleagues such as supervisors and line managers (32.1%). The
data in this sample show that harassment by their supervisors (92.9%) and line
managers (32.1%) was very common.

Conclusions

In the RMG sector, labour abuses are characterized by extremely long working hours
and unfair deductions. Moreover, receiving wages are considerably below than the
legally set minimum wages. Therefore, without legal enforcement female workers'
labour rights can not be protected.

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While organizations like CARE and others can assist women workers by providing them
with knowledge on labour rights and collective bargaining, these efforts will always be
limited. In order to provide equity and security to women's working in the garment
industry in Gazipur and Chittagong and throughout Bangladesh, meaningful monitoring
and enforcement are essentially required. Women need to be entitled to enjoy the
same rights as male workers under the law and in practice.

It is a prime duty for us to provide a better working place for the RMG workers of
Bangladesh who have given our economy a strong footing. Over the last three decades,
garment industries have created jobs for millions of people, especially for women, and
lifted them from poverty and given them a magnificent life.

One of the factors that negatively affect women’s empowerment is the vertical gender
segregation of the labour force, especially in some positions in garment industry.
Women typically occupy jobs as operators and helpers and are excluded from positions
of responsibility. This situation is reinforced by the lack of training opportunities for
existing operators. Nevertheless, there are aspects of empowerment for these female
workers who are engaged in paid work despite the likelihood that it increases their
double burden of work inside and outside the home. Previous studies show that some
shifts in the role and status of women have been noted in Bangladesh and other
locations such as in Sri Lanka - particularly where women engage in activism (Lynch,
2007; Rock, 2001). It is therefore important to make clear that garment sector
employment is not work that the women themselves wish to disappear from their
labour market. They simply seek better working conditions.

Labour Law

First, no proper definition is available on the minimum wage in the national rules and
regulations (Labour Act 2006; Amended Labour Act 2013). The term minimum wage is
not defined in the Bangladesh Labour Act 2006, nor in the Amended Labour Act 2013. In
making its recommendation the Wage Board shall take into consideration cost of living,
standard of living, cost of production, productivity, price of products, business
capability, economic and social conditions of the country and of the locality concerned
and other relevant factors.

Appropriate mechanism should be developed to ensure that the cases are investigated
and appropriate corrective measures are taken promptly. There is a need to enforce
punishment/penalties for non-compliance of the labour laws and policies. Moreover,
government should devote resources to enforce existing labour laws and policies. It

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should increase the number of labour inspectors and implement random inspections
and make provision for incentives for the inspectors and employers.

Periodic consultation and follow-up meetings among the government, NGOs, employers
in the private sector, trade unions and civil society members should be organized to
ensure that the root causes of inequality and injustice are addressed, particularly in
support of human rights and workers' rights.

Labour Rights

This study identified, very poor awareness level of female workers regarding their rights
and responsibility. Most of the female workers do not know much about labour laws as
well as about various organizations providing support to them. The Ministry of Labour
and Employment as well as relevant government department/ministry, together with
trade unions and NGOs should conduct educational/awareness programs for the
workers so that laws can be enforced. In this context media, especially electronic media
can play a major role by airing very brief advertisement/press clip on the key issues of
the labour right.

Effective advocacy strategies should be explored to ensure that the relevant ILO
Conventions including the International Convention on the Protection of the Rights of
Workers, and the ILO Code of Practice on Workplace Violence and measures to combat
this issue are adopted and progressive changes made within the labour legislation
without further delay.

A monitoring and oversight committee should be constituted to include members from

the judiciary, media, academia, corporate sector, BGMEA, BKMEA and representatives
of the Social Resistance Committee (a coalition of forty seven rights based organizations
that had initiated a social movement against sexual harassment in 2008). This
committee should actively explore and identify advocacy strategies for effective
implementation designed to address female workers needs and challenges.

Worker organisations should work more to ensure that their interests are best served
through trade union action. In this regard, third parties, such as workers' organizations
and NGOs need to be allowed to witness labour negotiations at the Labour Protection
Office and contribute in a meaningful way to monitoring of labour rights. Moreover, civil
society should work with female workers, regardless of pressure or criticisms that might
be made of them. Civil society should pressure governments and factories and prioritize
supporting the fulfillment of female workers equal rights and treatment.

92
Overseas buyers and investors should allow and encourage the creation of women’s
welfare/participatory committees within workers’ associations. Although some of the
factories have participatory committee these did not come into effect. Currently, female
workers in are underrepresented on workers’ association committees. Participants
attending the KII and FGD mentioned that participation by women in workers’
association committees is nominal and female participation at the leadership level is
also very low.

Currently rights-focused activities are mainly driven by CARE across Dhaka, Gazipur and
Chittagong. With the aim of forming a solidarity group Care's EKATA program focuses on
building awareness among women workers about their rights and responsibilities. To
encourage women’s engagement and development of leadership roles within workers’
associations, this study recommends the creation of women’s welfare committees with
women-only membership. This will allow women to address not only their rights, but
also other concerns, such as child care, education, recreation, harassment or upward
mobility. It may also create opportunities for factory management to learn about issues
they were not aware of previously.

Take practical measures to ensure that freedom of association and the right to organize
and collectively bargain are respected inside all workplaces. There is a need to ensure
that garment workers are represented in collective bargaining agreements. Where
workers are limited to form and join trade unions, worker representatives should be
allowed to negotiate wages and working conditions at a workplace level. Female
workers have the right to receive protection, as stipulated in ILO convention 1998.

Recommendations

Based on the study findings, the following are recommendations that can be considered:

 Ensure that female workers receive the full minimum wage of Tk. 3,000 a month
(net salary) in accordance with Bangladesh Labour Law, and increase this wage
to meet a living a wage as soon as possible.

 Ensure that all workers in RMG factories are given contracts/appointment letter
with clear terms of employment that abide by the current labour standards and
signed by both parties.

 The Labour Officer needs to increase monitoring of labour conditions at garment

factories and follow up with proper enforcement of laws and standards.

93
 NGOs can encourage trade union solidarity action with female RMG workers and
donor agencies should prioritize supporting the fulfillment of migrant workers
equal rights and treatment.

 Establish bank accounts for female workers with direct wage deposit.

 Create women’s welfare committees within workers’ associations to support

women’s participation in associations, and to ensure the inclusion of women’s
perspectives and concerns in conversations with management.

 As per the Labour Law, management should create a factory-sponsored child-

care center to increase workers’ productivity and reduce their 'on the job stress'

 Factory management needs to be convinced of the use of preventing violence

against female garment workers. Changing behaviours or beliefs with a few
trainings is not effective; management should provide more engagement.

 Workers should be able to participate in all aspects of the health and safety
program within the factory. A worker health and safety representative is
required in the health and safety committee to speak or act about health and
safety matters on their behalf.

 To enhance skills in leadership, addressing the under-representation of female

RMG workers throughout all of the structures of the trade union should be a
priority for the union. The representation of women has reached an all time low.

 A national platform would be helpful to strictly implement the labour law of

Bangladesh. It could be an operational body which can be formed with the aim
of coordinating and managing protection activities regarding workers' rights. The
platform can also work to increase capacity to restore fair labour practices (e.g.
salaries, health and safety) as well as policy formulation.

94
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 APPENDIX: Questionnaire
FORM NO

Women Garment Workers Questionnaire

Baseline Survey of 'OIKKO' Project

Prepared for
Care Bangladesh
Pragati Insurance Bhaban (9th-13th floor)
20-21 Kawran Bazar
Dhaka-1215

IDENTIFICATION

Survey Location :
Name of OIKKO Centre :
Name of the Interviewer :
Checked by :
Date :

INFORMED CONSENT
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AskMÖnb Ki‡eb| Kvib Avcbvi gZvgZ GB Rwic Kv‡Ri Rb¨ AZ¨š— ¸i“Z¡c~b©|

100
Avcwb GLb GB Rwic KvR m¤ú‡K© Avgv‡K †h †Kvb cÖkœ Ki‡Z cv‡ib|
Avwg wK GLb Avgvi cÖkœvw` Avcbv‡K wRÁvmv ïi“ Ki‡Z cvwi?

101
 Please circle the appropriate answer
NO. QUESTION SKIP
DEMOGRAPHIC INFORMATION
1.1 Respondent's name: ......................................
1.2 Factory name: ......................................
1.3 Designation: ......................................
2 Present address: Mohalla/Block:
Ward/Union:
Upazila:
District:
3 Permanent address: Ward/Union:
Upazila:
District:
4 What is your age? In year.............
5 Marital status 1. Unmarried
2. Married
3. Separated
4. Divorced
5. Widowed
6 If you are married, how many children do you have? .....................
7 Have you ever attended school? Yes=1
No=2
8 Education 1. What is the highest class
completed at that
schooling?...............
2. Illiterate
9 What type of house do you live in? 1. Tin shed
2. Semi Paka
3. Building
4. Hut
5. Other.........................
10 Ownership of house 1. Rented
2. Own
11 How much is your monthly rent? (if rented) In taka:....................
12 Whom do you live with? 1. With family
2. With relatives
3. Friends/co-workers
4. Alone

102
13 Number of family members [for both married & .....................
unmarried]
14 Who is dependent on your income? 1. Husband
2. Parents
3. Brothers/Sisters
4. None
FACTORY RELATED INFORMATION
15 Name of the factory where you are currently working. Name:
16 What is the type of the factory? 1. Knit
2. Woven
3. Sweater
17 How long have you been working in this current Years:................
factory?
18 What type of documents have you been provided by 1. Appointment letter
your current employer? 2. Job description
3. ID card
4. Attendant card
5. Other (if any)......................
19 How long have you been working in RMG factories? Year:……......Month:
[calculate past and present employment together]
20 Why did you quit your last job? 1. Low salary
[Multiple answer possible] 2. Misbehaviour of
supervisor/Management
staff
3. No leave provision
4. Work load
5. Irregular payment of
overtime and attendance
bonus
6. Long distance from house
7. No welfare benefits
8. Other........................
21 What are the benefits that you are getting from your 1. Regular payment of wage
current employer? [Read out the list to the 2. Regular payment of
respondent] overtime
3. Minimum wage as per govt.
policy
4. Regular attendance bonus
5. Festival bonus
6. Skill bonus
7. Annual profit bonus
8. Medical allowance
9. Regular doctor service

103
 10. Clinic and medicine within
factory
11. Day care facilities
12. Health insurance
13. Group insurance
14. Maternity leave
15. Maternity benefits
16. Provident fund
17. Regular weekly holiday
18. Lunch from factory
19. Tiffin from factory
20. Sick leave with payment
21. Annual leave with payment
22. Separate toilet
23. Basket in toilet
24. Supply of pure drinking
water
25. Other.................................
22 What was your last month's salary/wage? In taka:...............
23 How long was your overtime in the last month? [in Hours:...............
hours]
24 If 'yes', how much have you earned last month from In taka:.............
your overtime?
25 [If 'married' in question 5] Did you take any maternity 1 = Yes
leave in this factory? 2 = No
26 Did you take any earned leave in the last one month 1 = Yes
period from this factory? 2 = No
27 If 'yes', how many leave days did you take in the last No. of days:...............
one month? [Earned leave only]
OCCUPATIONAL HEALTH AND SAFETY
28 Have you ever experienced and/or witnessed any Yes = 1 If 'No'
accident or injury during your time in the garment No = 2 30
industry? [From past and present job in garments]
29 If 'yes', what type of injury did you observe there? ......................................................
30 Does your factory have any emergency exit in case of 1 = Yes
fire or other emergency? 2 = No
31 Does the emergency exit gate/staircase remain 1 = Yes
locked during working hour? 2 = No
3= Don't know
32 Does your employer conduct fire evacuation drills for 1 = Yes
emergency fire exist? 2 = No

104
33 Whom do you see in case of any risk related to 1. Co-workers
occupational health and safety? 2. Supervisors
3. Floor Incharge
4. GM/PM
5. Other….
34 Do you know if there is any Occupational Health and 1 = Yes
Safety Committee in your factory? 2 = No
35 If 'yes', what do they do as part of their job? …........................
36 What steps do you take to save yourself during 1. Use mask
accident/injury in factory? 2. Use scarf to save hair
machine
3. Keep the orna tightly
attached to body
4. Do not use orna during
work
5. Use cap to save fingers
form machine
6. Use apron
7. Other……................
8. Don't use none of the
above
HARASSMENT AND DISCRIMINATION
37 Have you faced any harassment in this factory? 1= Yes If
2= No 'No'
38
38 If 'yes', what was the type of harassment? 1. Verbal (e.g.slang/bad
language)
2. Sexual harassment (e.g.
touching, patting, rubbing,
asking for sex)
3. Physical harassment
4. Threat (termination,
demotion
5. Other....................
39 [If 'yes' in Q. 37], By whom the harassment was 1. Co-worker
perpetrated? 2. Supervisor
3. Line Manager
4. Higher Officer (e.g. GM/PM)
5. Owner/son of owner
6. Hired muscleman
7. Guard
8. Other..............

105
40 [If 'yes' in Q. 37], Who did you speak to/turn to for 1. Co-workers
help? [Multiple answer is possible] 2. Supervisors
3. Line Chief
4. Floor Incharge
5. Higher officer (GM/PM)
6. Owner
7. Guard
8. Other.................
41 [If 'yes' in Q. 37], Did you receive any help from 1= Yes
them? 2= No
42 [If 'yes' in Q. 41], To what extent were you satisfied 1. Very satisfied
with their cooperation? 2. Satisfied
3. Neither satisfied nor
dissatisfied
4. Not satisfied
5. No comment
43 Does your factory have any Anti Harassment 1= Yes
Committee? 2=No
44 If 'yes', is it helpful to you and your co-workers?
1= Yes
2= No
UNIONS AND COLLECTIVE BARGAINING AT WORKPLACE
45 Are you a member of any trade union or 1=Yes If 'No'
federation? 2=No 49
46 If 'yes', what is the name of the union/federation? ..........................................................
47 [If 'yes' in Q. 45] After you joined the trade union, did 1=Yes
the attitude of supervisors/management/coworkers 2=No
towards you change?
48 [If 'yes' in Q. 45] How joining a trade union influences
your work-life or what did you learn?
.......................................................................................................................................
.............
.......................................................................................................................................
.............
49 [If 'no' in Q. 45] Why have not you become a member 1. Employer opposes it
of trade union or federation? [Multiple answer is 2. Fear of losing job
possible] 3. No time in hand
4. Don't like it
5. Haven't heard trade union's
name
6. Other (specify).....................
Respondent's comment on barriers to participation in labour union:
....................................................................................................................................................

106
 ....................................................................................................................................................
50 Have you ever participated in any collective 1= Yes If 'No'
negotiation with the employer? 2= No 52
51 If 'yes', what did you get from your employer? 1. Increased salary
2. Overtime according to
entitlement
3. Promotion
4. Bonus
5. Entitled leave
6. Dearness allowance
7. Other (specify)..................
8. Didn't get anything
52 Does this factory have 'workers' participation 1 = Yes
committee'? 2 = No
3 = Don't know
53 [If 'yes' in Q. 52] How was the committee formed? 1. By the authority
2. By the worker
3. Both by worker and
authority
4. Don't know
54 Are you a member of this workers' participation 1= Yes
committee? 2= No
55 [If 'yes' in Q. 54] Do you know any of the committee 1= Yes
members? 2= No
CAPACITY, SKILLS AND AWARENESS
56 Have you ever received any training from a trade 1= Yes If 'No'
union or a NGO? 2= No 60
57 [If 'yes' in Q. 56] What was the training about? .........................................................
.........................................................
58 [If 'yes' in Q. 56] Which organization provided the .........................................................
training?
59 [If 'yes' in Q. 56] What did you learn by participating
in the training?
.......................................................................................................................................
............
.......................................................................................................................................
............
60 What, in your opinion, are the most important rights
of a worker?
1..........................................

2..........................................

107
 3..........................................
61 Where do you go to resolve most of your workplace
related challenges (e.g. about wage, leave,
harassment etc.)
1............................................
2............................................
3............................................
62 Are you currently a member of EKATA workers' 1 = Yes
solidarity group? 2 = No
63 [If 'yes' in Q. 63] Have you ever shared any 1 = Yes
information with any of your co-worker in this factory 2 = No
regarding your rights?
64 [If 'yes' in Q. 63] If 'yes' what was the issue?
....................................................................................................................................................
....................................................................................................................................................
65 Are you aware of the following issue? [Read out the
statements]
65.1 Under the Labour Law of Bangladesh, can you Yes 1 No 2
negotiate with the employer for male-female
earnings gap?
65.2 Is there any gender difference in earnings in every job Yes 1 No 2
category in the garment industry?
65.3 Is a woman worker entitled to get maternity leave? Yes 1 No 2
65.4 Do you know what a trade union or PC (participation Yes 1 No 2
committee) is?
65.5 Do you know that the Labour Law requires you to Yes 1 No 2
keep a copy of appointment letter?
65.6 Do you know how many days of sick leave you are Yes 1 No 2
entitled to?
65.7 In your factory, are you entitled to any protective Yes 1 No 2
equipment (e.g. respiratory protection)?
65.8 Do you know if this factory has group insurance for Yes 1 No 2
workers?
65.9 Are you aware of any Collective Bargaining Yes 1 No 2
Agreement (CBA)?
66 What are the rights and entitlements of a garment Yes 1 No 2
worker? [Read out the following issue]
66.1 Appointment letter Yes 1 No 2
66.2 Eight hour of daily work Yes 1 No 2
66.3 Weekly leave Yes 1 No 2
66.4 Maternity leave Yes 1 No 2
66.5 Casual leave Yes 1 No 2

108
66.6 Medical leave Yes 1 No 2
66.7 Equal wage of male and female worker Yes 1 No 2
66.8 Appropriate work environment Yes 1 No 2
66.9 Future fund Yes 1 No 2
66.10 Medical allowance Yes 1 No 2
66.11 Medical support (from doctors) Yes 1 No 2
66.12 Rationing Yes 1 No 2
66.13 Fire exit provision Yes 1 No 2
66.14 Child care at factory premises Yes 1 No 2
66.15 Double wage (based on basic pay) for over time Yes 1 No 2
66. 16 Don't know [please circle]
67 Have you ever reached by outreach activities of trade 1= Yes
unions/federations? 2= No
68 If 'yes', has any outreach activist talked to you to 1= Yes
unionize? 2= No
69 What do you know about compensation of death or 1. Death compensation (1 lac
injury in factories? taka)
2. Group insurance
3. Salary
4. Cash as per law
5. 4. Other.............................
70 What do you need for improving your skill? 1. Sweing machine operation
[Do not read out the response categories] 2. Cutting training
3. Income generating
activities
4. Other.........................
5. Don't need any further
skills
6. 5. Don't know
DECISION MAKING POWER
71 Did you face any problem to join in the RMG factory? 1=Yes
2=No
72 If 'yes', what were the problems?

............................................................................................................................................
............................................................................................................................................
73 Who has influenced you to work in the RMG factory? 1. Own decision
[When you first join in RMG factory] 2. Father
3. Mother
4. Husband
5. Brother/sister
6. Relatives
7. Other………....................

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74 Do your family members allow you to take self 1 = Yes
decision or family decision? [Ask this question to both 2 = No
married and unmarried workers]
75 If 'yes', what are some of those decisions? 1.................................................
2.................................................
3.................................................
76 How do you rate your social status? 1= Lower social class
2= Middle class
3= Upper class
77 What is the society's view about female garment
workers? [Write about positive or negative view]
....................................................................................................................................................
...................................................................................................................................................
ECONOMIC EMPOWERMENT
78 What is the monthly income of your family? In taka:...................
[Applicable to both married and unmarried worker]
79 How much do you usually contribute to your family In taka:...................
on a monthly basis? [Applicable to both married and
unmarried worker]
80 Is the monthly salary/wage you get from your current 1 = Yes
factory enough to live well? 2 = No
81 On average, how much do you spend in a month on 1. House rent
these items? [Record from last month expenditure] 2. Electric bill
3. Food
4. Medical
5. Gas bill
6. Water bill
7. Child education
8. Travel
9. Other........................
82 What do you do with the salary/wage and overtime 1. Hand over to husband
money? [Applicable to currently married worker only] (partial/full)
2. Send the money to own
family
3. Use for own family
expenditure
4. Can spend as per my own
decision
83 Do you have any savings? 1 = Yes
2 = No
84 If yes, where do you save your money? 1. Bank
[Multiple answer is possible] 2. Sanchayapatra
3. Insurance

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 4. NGOs
5. Co-operative
6. Post Office
7. Other..........................
85 Why do you save money? 1. Land purchase
[Do not read out the response categories. Multiple 2. For child's education
answer is possible] 3. Construction of house
4. For making future assets
5. For children’s marriage
6. For own marriage
7. For dowry purpose
8. For children’s 'future'
9. Investment in income-
earning activities
10. To save for 'rainy day'
11. Securing my future
12. Other......................
86 What kind of assets do you have in your own name? 1. Land
[Multiple answer is possible] 2. Shop
3. House
4. Cattle
5. DPS/FDR
6. Other........................
7. Don't have any asset
STRUCTURE
87 Is a male or female worker in this factory treated 1 = Yes
differently by the employer because of their sex? 2 = No
3 = Don't know
88 If 'yes', why?
....................................................................................................................................................
....................................................................................................................................................

89 [If the respondent answered 'yes' to question 87] 1. Appointment letter

Are male and female workers in this factory being 2. Job permanency
discriminated against based on these services? 3. Promotion
[Multiple answer is possible] 4. Entitled leave
5. Bonus
6. Health service
7. Refreshment
8. Workers' Welfare
Association Election
9. Compensation of workers
10. Other (specify)....................
90 What is your opinion regarding improving the 1. Salary/wage should be
conditions of workers in garment sector? paid on time

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 2. Bonus should be paid on
time
3. Entitled leaves should be
given
4. Cooperation from the
employer
5. Accommodation facility
6. Other (specify)...................
ACCESS TO SERVICES
91 Which service do you need? 1. Health Service
2. Legal Service
3. Educational Service
4. Economic service
5. Other…..................
92 Where do you visit for health services? 1. Pharmacy
2. Govt. hospital
3. Private hospital/clinic
4. NGO clinic
5. Kabiraj
6. Other…................
RELATIONSHIP
93 Whom do you see first if you face any problem within 1. Co-workers
your factory? 2. Supervisors
3. Line Chief
4. PM/GM
5. Floor Incharge
6. Committees in the
factory
7. Other…...............
94 Who usually provides you most of the support 1. Co-workers
services in case you face any problem within your 2. Supervisors
factory (e.g. machine, water supply etc.)? 3. Line Chief
[Exclude harrament or violence issues. Multiple 4. PM/GM
answer is possible] 5. Floor Incharge
6. Committees in the
factory
7. Other................
95 Who provides you most support services to solve 1. Police
your problem you face within the family or 2. Neigbour
community (e.g. harassment, eve teasing, conflict 3. House owner
with husband)? 4. Local political leader
5. Shopkeeper
6. Local elite
7. Councilor
8. Other…...............

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96 Are you a member of any 1 = Yes
organization/association/committee (e.g. NGO, co- 2 = No
operative, health club etc.)?
97 If 'yes', what is the name of the ............................................
organization/association/committee?
Thank you for your time

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