Introduction to

Flowering Bulbs

By: Muhammad Hamza Imtiaz

 Contents
Introduction ………………………………………. 01

Bulb Types ………………………………………. 02-04

Growing Bulbs ………………………………………. 05-06

Bulb Troubles ………………………………………. 07-10

Famous Bulbs ………………………………………. 11-45

 Introduction to Flowering Bulbs
Introduction

The close association of human beings with bulbs dates back to pre-historic
times but history continues to unfold. Not many years ago the main
purpose to buy bulbs was to fill flower beds or to edge borders, but
nowadays nearly half of the bulbs we buy are planted in containers. These
bulbs used to be bought loose from garden shops, High St. stores, etc., or in
bags or sacks from the mail order companies and nurseries now most of the
bulbs sold are in colorful and informative pre-packs.
So, the bulb Story continues to evolve but the basic buying pattern has
remained unchanged throughout the century. The main season for planting
and purchasing remains the autumn months and three-quarters of all the
flowering bulbs we buy are the spring flowering ones e.g. Gladioli,
Dahlias, and Lilies.

History of Bulbs

The use of bulbous plants is nearly as old as mankind itself. From the dawn of
human history, fleshy roots have also been used as food but we have no idea
which types were used. From our more recent past, we don't know that
Potatoes have been cultivated in S. America for thousands of years, the
ancient Egyptians grew Onions and the Cretans exported large quantities of
saffron derived from Crocus. Sativus.
With the birth of civilization, people began to look at some bulbous plants as
objects of religious symbolism and not just as the source of food. Revered
beyond all others was the lily. Lilies were painted on the walls of Cretan
places over 3000 years ago and to Greeks were the symbol of purity,
The demand for bulbs continues to increase each year and to satisfy this
demand the commercial growers steadily enlarge the acreage devoted to bulb
production.it is no surprise that Holland is the world’s largest producer of
Bulbs but it is perhaps surprising that Britain comes second. Next comes the
U.S followed by Japan. Each year the catalogs include exciting new ones to
try. The bulb story Continues….

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Bulb Types

Most people use the term "bulb" for plants with underground and fleshy structures. There are only some
plants commonly referred to as bulbs. Any plant that stores its whole cycle of life in an underground storage
structure is defined as a bulb.
This underground storage structure primarily consists of storing nutrient reserves to ensure the survival of
plants.
The definition of a bulb is any plant that stores its complete life cycle in an underground storage
structure.
Bulbs or bulbs typically become permanent. They are rising and flowering during a phase. This is proceeded
by a resting period in which at the end of each season, they die back to the ground. In the warm months the
peak of the growing season. In the autumn, spring bulbs begin to grow again and thrive the next growing
season.
Bulbs can be classified into five storage system groups. They contain true bulbs, corms, tubers, root tubers,
and rhizomes. Here the arrangement is seen in the sixth group of fleshly roots. Examples of this type are
daylilies and peonies that are common gardener plants.

1. True bulbs

Five important parts include the true bulb. The layout contains the base plate
(underside of the bulb from whom roots grow), plump scales (primary storage
material), a tunic (skin-like protection which covers the stout scales) (develop
into bulblets or offsets).
True bulbs are separated into bulbs of tunicates and imbricate bulbs. A
tunicate bulb has a paper-like cover or tunic to protect the protective
covering against drying and mechanical damage.
Tulips, narcissuses, hyacinths, Muscari, and alliums are some of the fine
examples of true bulbs. Many plants such as narcissuses form new bulbs
around the previous bulb. These bulbs, known as offsets, grow from eyes in
the base of the parent bulb and grow new plants. When these bulbs grow too
much in number, the blooms begin to lessen in size. This situation indicates
that it is time to divide the bulbs. Lily is the perfect example of imbricate
bulbs. lilies are the perfect example of tunicate or imbricate bulbs. To prevent damage to bulbs by drying
out imbricate bulbs must be kept constantly moist.
Lilies can be propagated from baby bulbs also called bulbils that protrude from the base of the plants.

2. Corms

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A mass of storage tissue that is modified part of the swollen stem is called a corm. A corm lacks detectable
storage rings when sliced from the center. This differentiates it from a true bulb.
The roots of the bulb develop from the base of the bulb which is also called a basal plate, a thin protective
cover called a tunic and a growing point. Gladiolus, crocus, and Autumn crocus are good examples of
corms.
In fall gladiolus should be separated into well-formed corms, for replanting from poorly developed corms
that you may want to waste. The freshly dug corms will have pea-sized cormels that are formed around the
top of the old corm. The remnants of the old corm will be beneath the freshly formed corms. The growing
point of the corm will be evident once the old stem is removed. The cormels can be saved and replanted
until they attain flowering size. Gladiolus, crocus, and autumn crocus are examples of plants that develop
through corms.

3. T
u
b
e
r
s

A tuber differentiates itself from the corms and the true bulbs by lacking a base
plate by which the roots protrude and not having a shielding tunic covering. The
caladium tuber has buds dispersed over the surface of the tuber from which
plant parts develop. caladiums, oxalis, and anemones are examples of the plants
that are propagated by tubers.

4. Tuberous Roots

The tuberous root contains nutrient reserves that are being contained in an
actual root alternately of an enlarged stem.
The dahlia replicates the end of the root at the top. The Method of
Multiplication structures of a dahlia should not be divided before depositing it in storage in the autumn
rather must be divided at the time of planting. The root should be distributed into portions with a portion
bearing eye of the stem left with each part of the root. Begonias reproduce by tuberous roots.

5. Rhizome
The rhizomes, corms, and tubers are the bulbs that are thickened stems with nutrients to sustain the
cultivated plant. The rhizomes vary from each other by burgeoning horizontality and bloating partially
or entirely below the surface of the earth. The key point of development is at the tip of the rhizome, but

3
 the upper surface and the sides also have buds. Roots grow on the base of the rhizome from the buds.
Most rhizomes can disperse quickly, as the long, branching stem for planting can be separated into parts
such that each portion has roots and a bud.
Examples: Convallaria, Canna, Achimenes, Zantedeschia, Agapanthus

6. Pseudobulb
The pseudobulb is the sophisticated storage organ that is made by orchids.   pseudobulb is the base of
the swollen stem, which is both green and above the field, unlike many other bulbous forms. It may be
circular or rounded and all foliage and flower stems emerge from it.
Examples: Bletilla, Pleione

Growing Bulbs

In general, the planting and aftercare of hardy bulbs are straightforward unlike seeds the planting material is
easy to handle and unlike shrubs, there are no large holes to dig. There is no thinning, pruning, routine
pruning, etc, then there is still more to bulb growing than merely scooping out a hole and to dropping in
plant material. First, make sure that the type you have chosen is right for your situation and that the time is
suitable for planting—always check in the A—Z guide before you begin.

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 1. Planting
It is always necessary to choose some sort of tool to make a hole for the bulb. The depth of this hole varies greatly
from type to type--- it may be as little as ½ in. or as much as 10 in. There is no right material for every job --- the
three basic tools are illustrated below.

i. Trowel:

The trowel is the most popular planting tool and is the best one to use if you have just a
few bulbs to plant and/or if the bulbs have widely differing diameters. To make the job
easier you can buy a trowel with measurements marked down the length of the blade. A
dibber is sometimes used for planting small bulbs but the compaction in heavy soil can
lead to problems.

ii. Bulb Planter

The handheld bulb planter is often recommended where a large number of bulbs is to be
planted. It is pushed into the soil and then removed with the core of earth within—an
easy job in the sandy soil but it is hard work in the clayey ground. The long hand—
handled model pushed in with the foot is easier to use. The problem with the bulb
planter is that all holes are of the same diameter and depth.

iii. Spade

The spade is the best tool to use when a large area is to be planted with bulbs.
Remove the soil to the required depth, loosen the surface at the bottom of the
trench, place the bulbs in position, and then replace the earth. Firm gently and
then rake lightly to prevent surface capping when it rains. The spade is also the
best tool for naturalizing bulbs in the grass.

2. Feeding
There are no universal rules for the feeding of bulbs the best way to feed them depends upon both the type
and situation in which they are grown. Perhaps there is one general rule. If the ground is not perfectly fertile
it is useful to work the fertilizer into the soil before planting. This feed must be a slow-acting one such as
Bone Meal.

3. Watering
There should not be a need to water spring-flowering bulbs up to the flowering stage, but it is essential to
keep the leaves growing as long as possible after flowering and this may mean watering in late spring until
the foliage turns yellow or brown. Summer and Autumn flowering bulbs such as Dahlia and Gladioli do

5
need watering during periods of drought. Water thoroughly to reach deep-seated roots a daily sprinkler may
do well harm than good.

4. Staking
Stakes, wires, and other means of support are never things of beauty and can be distinctly ugly when
carelessly used. Still, they are necessary for weak stemmed plants such as Achimenes, tall varieties on
exposed sites such as some Tulips, for large-headed flowers like some decorative and semi cactus Dahlias,
and finally for some climbers like Gloriosa. The golden rule is never to end staking until the stems have
collapsed.

5. Winter Protection
Some bulbous plants can be overwintered in the garden with no problems at all. Crocus, Narcissus, and
snowdrops are examples. At the other end of the scale are the half-hardy and tender varieties which can not
be left in the ground during the winter months. Some of them like Gladioli and Begonias are lifted and
stored for planting later others are grown as house or conservatory plants.

6. Storage
Numerous bulbs in the A-Z section require a period of dry and cool storage when they are dormant. The
usual procedure is to lift the bulbs carefully and then allow them to dry for about a week. Discard any
damaged or diseased ones and then remove soil.

7. Multiplication of Bulbs
There are several ways for increasing your stocks of bulbous plants, but only one or two will be right for the
plants in your home or garden. One of the easiest methods of recycling bulbs is to clump, disintegrate them,
and then replant them. Another possible way of Method of Multiplication and multiplication of bulbs is to
do it by bulblets, offsets, and cormels and corms. some may also be propagated by horizontal underground
stems called Rhizomes and some propagate by tubers that are underground swollen stems that contain
nutrients in them.

BULB TROUBLES

Pests and disease on the stems and flowers of bulbous plants are not usually a serious problem, but they can
occur as with the other plants in the garden or greenhouse. The spring-flowering bulbs are the most
fortunate ones as their flowering season ends before aphids, leaf-eating caterpillars, etc become a nuisance
in the garden. The underground parts of bulbs, however, are at risk at any time – there are numerous soil
diseases and pests as well as animals searching for food.

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So pests and diseases can be a problem, but you are likely to see very few of them. When things go wrong
the cause is usually a cultural or environmental fault rather than a specific pest or disease.
There are two golden rules – try to prevent trouble before it starts and deal with any problem promptly as
soon as it is seen. Make sure that the bulbs you plant are firm and healthy the soil is free-draining and the
guidance in the A-Z entry is followed. If something goes wrong in the garden check through the following
pages for the cause. In the greenhouse, there are additional pests such as red spider mite and whitefly –
check-in The Greenhouse Expert.

Pests
i. SWIF MOTH

These soil-living caterpillars attach Gladiolus corms, some rhizomes, and all types of true
bulbs. Unlike cutworms, they move backward when disturbed. Rake in a soil insecticide
before planting if it is a problem – keep under control by regular hoeing.

ii. BULB APHID

Bulb aphid’s pest mostly on Lilies, Crocuses, Gladioli, they hide under the tunic of these
bulbs. When bulbs infected from these aphids are planted, they seriously diminish the early
growth. Mechanical control should be done by hand-picking the aphids from the surface.

iii. MICE. SQUIRRELS AND BIRDS

Mice and squirrels can be wintertime pests – newly – planted bulbs are dug up and eaten.
The effect on formal planting schemes can be disastrous as blank spaces are the result.
Mousetraps and traps for squirrels are periodically recommended but the most effective
way of protecting the bulbs is to cover the planted area with plastic sheets and fix up the
sides. This is not practical if the bulb bed or border is extensive. Birds are much more
selective in their choice of bulbs. The main victims are Crocus flowers, especially the
yellow-flowering varieties. Control is difficult as netting is unsightly – bird repellents are
not reliable.

iv. THRIPS

Thrips are pests that attack the leaves and flowers of the bulb during summer.
Attack symptoms include silvery mottling of flowers and leaves. Gladioli are
particularly susceptible and the flowers may be ruined by a bad attached.
Plants should be sprayed with an insecticide to avoid damage.

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 v. CUT-WORM

These appear green, grey, or brown. They live mainly in soil. These are 2” long
and damage most of the flowering bulbs. They eat their roots and leave small
holes in them. remove the sick plants and remove the cutworms by handpicking.
To prevent them from damaging your bulbs again rake the soil with insecticides.

vi. HOVERFLY

The narcissus and hyacinth bulbs that are affected with narcissus fly become soft
and get rot. The maggots are about ½” in length. Control is not easy – soft bulbs
should be discarded and hoeing should be done as soon as foliage gets down.

vii. STEM AND BULB EELWORM

Tulips, irises, hyacinths, become soft and get rot. leaves of narcissuses get blanch,
get twisted, and may appear swollen from the surface. All of the affected bulbs
should be discarded and planting of bulbs at the affected sites must be avoided for
at least three years

viii. LILY BEETLE

These bright red beetles should be picked off the leaves by hand upon first facing –
the leaves and flowers of Lilies. Fritillaries and Convallarias can be seriously
impaired by this pest. It can be controlled by spraying with fenitrothion but this is
rarely practical.

ix. APHID

Aphids, infest many types of garden plants after spring, ended the weather but
they are not a deliberate pest of bulbous plants. These results in exaggeration and
waning of young growth and the leaves are topped with a sticky black substance.
Spray affected plants with a systemic insecticide.

x. SLUG

Slugs and snails can be a destructive nuisance, in moist soil. Newly established
stems and foliage is eaten above the soil and the bulbs below are expanded. Tulips,

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 Gladioli, dahlias, and Lilies particularly susceptible to attack. Slugs and snails generally camouflage
themselves underneath pots and trash during the day. Use slug pellets with care.

Diseases

i. TRUE BULB ROTS

Narcissus smolder causes small fungal growths to appear on the tunic and causes the
bulbs to degenerate. Botrytis causes soft and noxious bulbs. Gray bulb rot is a disease
with greyish gossamer mold on the surface.

ii. TULIP FIRE

Tulip fire is a troublesome disease in Tulips, that causes blotched areas on the
leaves and specks on the flower surface. New-born shoots may be concealed with a
greyish, silky mold. Avoid planting diseased bulbs. Remove affected plants and
spray the remainder with carbendazim.

iii. VIRUS

The virus causing color break does not harm the plant, but other viruses are extremely
damaging. Leaves are distorted and the surface is whelped or checkered, flowers are distorted and
growth is stunning. Remove and discard afflicted plants immediately. there is no cure.

iv. GREY MOULD (Botrytis)

Grey mold is the worst of bulb diseases and is most likely to strike when the
weather is humid. Dahlias, Tulips, Lilies, and Anemones are particularly
susceptible. Flowers appear specked upon first sight but get rotten and get
covered with a soft mold. Worsen diseased buds may fail to open. Picking off
the damaged bulbs is the only possible solution.

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v. Corm Rot:

Dry rot causes numerous dark specks that appear on the outside. These spots
merge and ultimately the corm degenerates, with hard rot the spots become
brown and the affected corms may appear dwindled. The portions of the scab are
round, brown, and lustrous. preventions are the same as affected corms, discard
diseased corms from the store, and never plant soft or moldy corms.

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 Famous Bulbs
A-Z

1. Agapanthus
Scientific Name: Agapanthus
africanus
 Bulb Uses: Garden indoor Plant
 Bulb Type: Rhizome
 Colors Available:
Multiple shades of Blue
 Flowering Period: February – April
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 Soil type: Well-drained soil with adequate organic matter—full sun is essential.
 Plant particulars
 Sowing time: September -- October
 Sowing depth: 4” (10cm)
 Plant spacing: 18—24” (40-50cm)
 Height of Plant: 30” (75cm)
 Method of Multiplication: Divide Clumps in April.
 Varieties: The ever-green A. africanus with deep blue flowers & A. orientalis with
white or blue flowers are suitable for indoor cultivation. But both are half-hardy. For
outdoor cultivation it is necessary to have a hardy species – A. ‘Headbourne Hybrid’ is
available in white, pale blue, and deep blue. A. campanulatus is regarded as the best
species for unfavorable conditions.

2. Allium
Scientific Name: Alium albopilosum, Alium
triquetrum, Alium ostrowskianum
 Bulb Uses: Garden Plant
 Bulb Type: True Bulb
 Colors Available:
Multiple colors
 Flowering Period: February — April
 Soil type: Any well-drained soil will do—full sun is
optimal for best growth.
 Plant particulars
 Sowing time: September—October
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 Sowing depth: Cover with soil up to 3 times the Height of the Plant of bulbs.
 Plant spacing: 6-12” (15-30cm)
 Height of Plant: Depends upon Species.
 Method of Multiplication: Divide mature clumps in Autumn when overcrowding
becomes a problem
 Varieties: there are two basic types of flower heads some are spheres made up of
tightly packed blooms—these are the Ball Headed Alliums. The rest bear a loose cluster
of upright or drooping blooms—these are the tufted Alliums 4’ high with 4” mauve heads
in June. The largest heads are carried by A. albopilosum—2’ high with 8” wide silvery
lilac heads in June. Other ball-headed alliums include A.
allatunense, A. karataviense, and A. sphaerocephalon. The
tufted Alliums are generally grown at the border or in a
rockery. Some of them have drooping flowers like A.
narcissiflorum, A. triquetrum, A.bessianum. The popular
A. moly grows 9” high and produces masses of loosely
packed yellow stars in June. A. ostrowskianum bears its
pink flowers in flat clusters and grows about 6” high.
There are several other rockery alliums which are
attractive but you should choose with care – various self-
seed very freely and are invasive.

3. AMARYLLIS
Scientific Name: A. belladona
 Bulb Uses: Garden/ Indoor Plant
 Bulb Type: True Bulb
 Colors Available:
Multiple colors
 Flowering Period: April – June
 Soil type: A bulb for warm areas—full sun is
essential. Any well-drained soil will do.
 Plant particulars
 Sowing time: January -- February
 Sowing depth: 6”
 Plant spacing: 12”
 Height of Plant: 24-30”

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 Method of Multiplication: Buy new bulbs amaryllis hates disturbance.
 Varieties: the only species grown is A. belladonna – the usual color is bright pink. The
strap-like leaves appear in spring and die down in early summer. After a month or two
the flower stalks emerge and buds open to produce clusters of 6—12 fragrant funnel-
shaped blooms which are about 3” across. Stake stems to avoid wind damage and cut
down once flowering is over. Cover the crown with peat during the winter months.

4. ANEMONE
Scientific Name: A. coronaria
 Bulb Uses: Garden Plant
 Bulb Type: Rhizome or tuber
 Colors Available:
Multiple colors.
 Flowering Period: February – April
 Soil type: well-drained, humus-rich soil Is
required to thrive in sun or light shade. The florist
Anemone needs a warm and sheltered spot.
 Method of Multiplication: Divide mature
clumps in late—summer replant at once.
 Varieties: there are 2 basic types. The Daisy—
flowered types have narrow petals surrounding the
narrow disc. The 11/2” fower blooms appearing in
spring. The first to flower is A. blanda the blooms
of A. apennina appear a little later both these types
of anemones grow about 6” tall and the usual color is blue although white and pink

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 varieties are available. The white wood anemone bears starry rather than Daisy-like
blooms in April. Plant the tubers about 2” deep in September – space them 4” apart. Most
popular but less prominent are the Florist or Poppy flowered Anemones.

5.
5.
5.
5.
5.
5.
Arum
Scientific Name: A. creticum
 Bulb Uses: Garden Plant
 Bulb Type: Tuber
 Colors Available:
Multiple colors
 Flowering Period: April—June
 Soil type: well-drained, humus-rich soil in sun or light shade.
 Plant particulars
 Sowing time: January -- February
 Sowing depth: 6”
 Plant spacing: 4”
 Height of Plant: 12”
 Method of Multiplication: Divide clumps or remove offsets tubers and plants in
autumn.
 Varieties: Our native species A. maculatum has maroon blotched leaves – for garden
use other species are preferred. For floral display the best choice is A. creticum the
bottle-shaped yellow spathe is bent foliage/ berry display choose A. italicum ‘pictum’ or

15
silvery veins – the foliage appears in autumn and lasts until spring. In a sunny spot, the
pale yellow or greenish-white flowers are followed by bright red berries in Autumn.

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 6. BEGONIA
Scientific Name: B. tuberhybrida, B. pendula, B. multiflora
 Bulb Uses: Garden/ Indoor Plant
 Bulb Type: Tuber

 Colors Available:
Multiple colors
 Flowering Period: February – April
 Soil type: Needs soil that is rich in organic matter with little or
no lime present. Thrives best in light shade.
 Plant particulars
 Plant spacing: 9”
 Sowing time: September -- October
 Height of Plant: 9-24”
 Method of Multiplication: tubers can be divided when the shoots are small, but it is
better to buy new tubers.
 Varieties: the larger flowered begonia is the best-known group, it's Rose-like or
Camelia-like blooms measuring 2—6” across. There is a wide range of shapes and
colors-- flowers may be single or double. Plain-edged, ruffeled or self or bi-color. You
will find leafy plants in pots in your garden center in spring. Don't plant out until the
danger of frost has been gone.

7. CANNA
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 Scientific Name: C. generalis
 Bulb Uses: Garden/ Indoor Plant
 Bulb Type: Rhizome
 Colors Available:
Multiple colors

 Flowering Period: July – October

 Soil type: Humus rich soil or full sun are essential.
 Plant particulars
 Plant spacing: 12”
 Height of Plant: 24-48”
 Sowing time: February – April
 Sowing depth: 2”
 Method of Multiplication: Cut up rhizomes once they have started into Growth.
 Varieties: Many named varieties of C. generalis are available. They are divided into
two groups. The Colored Leaf varieties are highly decorative, Examples include Dazzler,
Assault & Verdi. The Green- leaved varieties include Orchid, President & Lucifer.

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 8. CLIVIA
Scientific Name: C. miniata
 Bulb Uses: Indoor Plant

 Bulb Type: Bulb-like root

 Colors Available:
Multiple colors
 Flowering Period: February – April
 Soil type: Bright light – avoid direct sun in
summer. Water liberally from spring to autumn.
 Plant particulars
 Sowing time: September -- October
 Plant spacing: Grow singly in a pot.
 Height of Plant: 12-18”
 Sowing depth: ½”
 Method of Multiplication: Repot when necessary, after flowering. Divide plants at
repotting time.
 Varieties: the clivias in the catalogs or on the house plant bench are hybrids of C.
miniate. The usual flower color is salmon with a yellow throat, but all sorts of blends of
cream, yellow, orange and red are available. The evergreen leaves are strap-like and
about 18” long.
They are arranged
in a distinctive fan
like pattern.

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 9. CONVALLARIA
Scientific Name: C. majalis

 Bulb Uses: Indoor/ Garden Plant

 Bulb Type: Rhizome
 Colors Available:
Multiple colors

 Flowering Period: February – April

 Soil type: Moisture retentive soil is
essential. Thrives best in partial shade.
 Plant particulars
 Sowing time: September -- October
 Plant spacing: 4”
 Height of Plant: 08-12”
 Sowing depth: 3”
 Method of Multiplication: divide over-crowded clumps in October replant at once.
 Varieties: The garden species is C. majalis. The stem bears 10-15 pure white bells
which are about ¼” long, these stems can be pulled for flower arranging. There are
several other interesting varieties. Grow Fontin’s Giant for large flowers. Prolificans for
double ones or
Rosea for pink
instead of white
blooms. For leaf
color there are
Variegata and
Hardwick Hall.

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 10. CRINUM
Scientific Name: C. powellii
 Bulb Uses: Indoor/ Garden Plant

 Bulb Type: True Bulb

 Colors Available:
 Multiple colors
 Flowering Period: September -- October
 Soil type: well-drained, moisture-retentive soil in the
south-facing position is essential.
 Plant particulars
 Sowing time: February – April
 Plant spacing: 18”
 Height of Plant: 36”
 Sowing depth: 6”
 Method of Multiplication: Buy new bulbs, crinum hates
root disturbance.
 Varieties: the most reliable outdoor species is C. powellii.
The flower stem bears a terminal cluster of about 10 blooms
which open in a succession. Each one of these trumpet-
shaped flowers is about 4” long. Pink is a usual color but a
white variety is available. Water freely and feed during the
growing season. For conservatory, cultivation pot-up the
bulb in march so that the tip is just above the surface. Water
liberally during the growing season but water sparingly
during winter. Repot every 3-4 years.

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 11. CROCUS
Scientific Name: C. speciosus, C. pickwick, C. tommasinianus
 Bulb Uses: Indoor/ Garden Plant
 Bulb Type: Corm
 Colors Available: Multiple colors
 Flowering Period: February – April
 Soil type: Any well-drained soil in sun or light shade.
 Plant particulars
 Sowing time: September -- October
 Plant spacing: 4”
 Height of Plant: 3-5”
 Sowing depth: 3”
 Method of Multiplication: divide over-crowded clumps in
autumn.
 Varieties: The Autumn flowering species are greater to grow in a sunny, well-drained
spot. C. speciosus is the most popular and is often the earliest to flower in September.
The blooms are tall with veined petals in violet, blue, and white. The Saffron crocus is
smaller and easy to recognize, the 3 stigmas are bright and red. Other varieties include
C. ochroleucus, C. nudiflorus, C. laviegatus, C. ancyrensis, C. augustifolius, C.
tommasianus. Other spring-flowering varieties include C. sieberi and its varieties
Bowels white and the gold white, and the purple Tricolor. Others you will find in the
catalogs are C. biflorus and C. impareti. One of the spring flowering species has given
rise to a large number of crocus types The Chrysanthus Varieties and hybrids.

22
 12. CYCLAMEN
Scientific Name: C. majalis

 Bulb Uses: Indoor/ Garden Plant

 Bulb Type: Tuber (corm)
 Colors Available:
 Multiple colors
 Flowering Period: February – April
 Soil type: well-drained, humus rich soil in
partial shade is necessary.
 Plant particulars
 Sowing time: September -- October
 Plant spacing: 6”
 Height of Plant: 4-6”
 Sowing depth: 1”
 Method of Multiplication: Cyclamens hate disturbance donot
divide. Seed can be grown under grass in summer.
 Varieties: the floral Cyclamens are hybrids of C. persicum.
These plants have wide petals which may be frilled and are
available in many colors. The foliage is usually edged, marbled
or lined in white. This leaf patterning may be bold enough to
rival the flowers in display value. Once there were only 12”
high standard sized varieties but there are now dwarfs with
scented blooms on stalks only a few inches high. The Hardy
Cyclamens are usually bought as tubers and planted with smooth
side down in late summer. The most popular species are C.
hederifolium which has marbled leaves and bears white, pink or red flowers in
September – November. Almost as easy to grow is C. coum. The white pink or red
flowers are blotched with purple and appear in December – March. The round leaves are
usually all green. C. purpurascence bears fragrant red flowers in July—September above
the silver zoned leaves and the marble leaved C. repandum has red, pink or white flowers
in April.

23
 13. DAHLIA
Scientific Name: D.’Athalie’
 Bulb Uses: Garden Plant
 Bulb Type: Tuberous Root
 Colors Available: Multiple color
 Flowering Period: February -- April
 Soil type: any well-drained garden soil will do—choose a spot that receives at
least a few hours of sunshine on a bright day
 Plant particulars
 Sowing time: September -- October
 Sowing depth: Border varieties 3in., Bedding and Liliput varieties 2in.
 Plant spacing: Tall Border Varieties 36”, Medium Border varieties 24”, Bedding and Liliput
Varieties 12”
 Height of Plant:1-4’
 Method of Multiplication: Carefully divide tubers every 2 years—make sure
that every tuber has a piece of stem attached with swollen tubers
Varieties: there are 11 different types of Dahlias available;
1. Single Flowered
2. Anemone Flowered
3. Collerette
4. Waterlily
5. Decorative
6. Ball
7. Pompon
8. Cactus
9. Semi-cactus
10.Miscellaneous
11.Miniature

24
 Border & Bedding Dahlias

“Single Flowered” “Anemone Flowered” Collerette WaterLily

Decorative Ball Pompon Cactus

Semi- Cactus Miscellaneous Liliput Dahlias

25
 14. FREESIA
Scientific Name: F. hybrids
 Bulb Uses: Garden / Indoor Plant
 Bulb Type: Corm
 Colors Available:
 Multiple colors
 Flowering Period: February – April
 Soil type: Use a soilless or soil-based compost-place
close to the glass and provide support.
 Plant particulars
 Sowing time: September -- October
 Sowing depth: 2”
 Plant spacing: 6” pot
 Height of Plant: 12-18”
 Method of Multiplication: Separate cormels after lifting and store for planting up in
summer.
Varieties: The 2” long flowers of F. hybrida grow on one side of the wiry stems. The
fragrance is an important feature and the local sprays are popular with flower arrangers. A
mixture of various colors is often chosen but you can buy named varieties. Examples include
Ballernia (White), Aurora (Cream), winter-gold(yellow), Oberon (Bronze), Red Lion
(vermilion). Double flowering
varieties are available.

26
 15. FRITILLARIA
Scientific Name: F. meleagris
 Bulb Uses: Garden Plant
 Bulb Type: True bulb
 Colors Available:
Multiple colors
 Flowering Period: February – April
 Soil type: Any well-drained soil will do-thrives best in light
shade
 Plant particulars
 Sowing time: September -- October
 Sowing depth: Short varieties – 5”. Tall varieties-8”
 Plant spacing: Short varieties- 6” Tall varieties-18”
 Height of Plant:6-48”
 Method of Multiplication: Divide clumps in summer every 4 years.
Varieties: F. melegaris is a plant for the rockery, front of the border, or for naturalizing
grass. Each 1’ stem bears 1or 2 % pendent 1 1/2 bells. The usual petal pattern is a
checkerboard, although there are
all white varieties available. F.
imperialis is a much more
imposing plant than its lowly but
popular relative. At the top of
each stout 2-3ft stem there is a
cluster5 of pendant blooms—2in
cups in yellow, orange, or red.
The flower head is un-usual the
odor is peculiar and there is a
crown of short green leaves. This
is a plant for the herbaceous or
mixed border, as is equally
imposing with tall green stems
from which hang purple bell-
shaped flowers.

27
 16. GALANTHUS
Scientific Name: G. nivlls
 Bulb Uses: Garden / Indoor Plant
 Bulb Type: True bulb
 Colors Available: White
 Flowering Period: February – April
 Soil type: Moist soil and light shade are required.
 Plant particulars
 Sowing time: September-October
 Sowing depth: 4”
 Plant spacing: 4”
 Height of Plant:4-10”
 Method of Multiplication: Lift and divide clumps while the leaves are still green-
replant immediately.
Varieties: the common snowdrop is G. nivalis – 1 in. (2.5cm) long flowers on 6 in. stalks.
There are several interesting varieties, such as the double- flowering Ophella, Flore Pieno,
and Pusey Green tip the tall viridapicis, and the yellow-marked Lutescence. And the charge
from the common snowdrop and
its varieties you can grow the
large G. elwesii with 10 in. stems
and globular flowers. Best of all
perhaps, are the two hybrids—G.
Atkinsii and G. “S. Arnott”
(Large-flowered, Scented)

28
 17. GLADIOLUS
Scientific Name: G. The Bride, G. Greenbird, G. Flower Song
 Bulb Uses: Garden / Indoor Plant
 Bulb Type: Corm
 Colors Available:
Multiple colors
 Flowering Period: February – April
 Soil type: Any well-drained soil will do-thrives best in
full sun.
 Plant particulars
 Sowing time: September -- October
 Sowing depth: 4-5”
 Plant spacing: 4-6”
 Height of Plant: Depends on variety- see above
 Method of Multiplication: Remove and store cormels at lifting time. Plant in spring-
they will take 2-3 years to flower.
Varieties: there are several ways of classifying Gladiolus, depending upon whether you are
a botanist, exhibitor, or gardener looking for something to buy. For the gardener, the
flowering division will help when looking around the garden center or in catalogs. There are
5 basic groups. The first and the most popular ones include “The large flowering ones” here
are the largest plants that grow 3—4ft high with triangular flowers that 4—7 in diameter.
The flower spikes are 16-20 in. The range for varieties is vast, the few popular ones are
White Friendship (Giant white), Peter pears, Royal
Dutch, Flower Song, Spic, and Span. The primulas
hybrids grow 2-3ft high the flowers are loosely attached
on the stems and the top petal is hooded. The average
bloom width is 3in. Examples are Robin, Leonore,
Columbine, and Essex. Staking is not necessary and is
not often needed for a certain group—the Butterfly
Hybrids. These grow 2-3ft high with 2-3 in wide flowers.

29
 18. HYACINTHUS
Scientific Name:H.orientalis
 Bulb Uses: Garden indoor Plant
 Bulb Type: True bulb
 Colors Available:
Multiple colors
 Flowering Period: February – April
 Soil type: Any reasonable garden soil
adequately supplied with humans will
do – thrives in sun or light shade.
 Plant particulars:
 Sowing time: September-October,
 Sowing depth: 6in.(15cm).
 Plant spacing: 8 in.(20cm).
 Height of Plant: 5-12 in.(12.5-30cm).
 Method of Multiplication: Removes offsets at lifting time – plant in autumn.
 Varieties: By far the most popular Hyacinthus is the Dutch Hybrids of H.orientalis. In
April or early May, the tightly packed flower – heads appear ranging in color from pure
white to deep purple. The stem is 10-12 in. (25-30) long waxy flowers. Grow these Dutch
Hybrids in large groups in beds or containers rather than as single specimens. Varities
includes ‘Amethyst’(early, lilac), ‘Amsterdam’ (early, red), AnneMarie (early, light
pink), ‘Blue Magic’ (mind-season, purple-blue), ‘Carnegie’ (late, white), ‘City of
Haariem ( late, yellow ), Delft blue (mind-season, pale blue), Pink Pearl (early, pink )
and Violet Pearl (early, silver-edged lilac-rose). An unusual indoor group is the Roman
Hyacinthus which are varieties of white, pink or blue are smaller and less tightly packed
on short 6 in. (15 cm) stalks. A third group, the Multiflora Varieties also have the flowers
loosely arranged and each bulb produces several flower stems. They can be grown
indoors or out and white, pink and blue flowers are available. Both Roma and Multiflora
Hycainthus bloom earlier than the Dutches ones. The final group is the Cynthelia or
Miniature Hyacinthus. These are small 5-6 in. (12.5-15)cm versions of well-known Dutch
Hyacinthus such as ‘Delft Blue;, ‘Jan Bos’, ‘Lady Derby’, ‘City of Haarlem’ and ‘Lord
Balfour’.

30
 19. Hymenocallis
Scientific Name: H.festalis
 Bulb Uses: Garden Plant
 Bulb Type: True Bulb
 Colors Available: Multiple Colors
 Flowering Period: May—July
 Soil type: Use a soilless compost –
choose a brightly lit spot away from the
hot summer sun.
 Plant Particulars:
 Sowing time:
 Sowing depth: Tip should be just
above the surface.
 Plant spacing: 1in. a 5 in.
 Height of Plant: 18-24 in.
 Method of Multiplication: Remove
and plant offsets at reporting time.
 Varieties: H.festalis ( lsmene
festalis ) is the most popular species.
About 6 fragrant white bloomed are
borne on top of the 1 ½ - 2 ft (45-60
cm) stem – each flower measures 4-6
in. (10-15 cm) across. A minimum
temperature of 55 degrees Fahrenheit
(13 degrees Celsius) is necessary –
water sparingly until the green shoots
appear. Stop watering when the leaves
wither in autumn – leave dormant over winter and report in spring every 2-3
years. H.’Sulphur Queen’ has green-veined yellow flowers.
20. Iris
Scientific Name:
31
 Bulb Uses: Garden /Indoor Plant
 Bulb Type: True Bulb
 Colors Available:
Multiple colors

 Flowering Period: February – April

 Soil type: For most types, well-drained, light
soil is essential, thrives best in full sun.
 Method of Multiplication: Divide clumps
when lifting is necessary
Varieties: there are three groups of Bulb Irises.
The reticulata group is the well-known dwarfs that
grow 3-6” high and bloom in February or March.
The popular fragrant one is yellow-flowered I.
danfordiae, the brown spotted petals appear before
the leaves. Even more popular is I. reticulata
purplish-blue scented flowers with yellow
markings. It grows about 6” high and flowers are
2-3” across. In the catalogs or garden center, you
may find varieties and hybrids such as Cantab,
Pauline, Katherine Hodgking & J.S. Dijt. For
larger flowers grow I. histroides gentian blue
blooms with white spots. The bulb in the reticulata
group are covered with fibrous nets plant them 3”
deep and 4” apart in September and October. All
can be grown as indoor flowering plants or
January- February blooms. The Xiphium group is
quite different. They are summer flowering and the stems are 11/2 -2’ tall. All of them are
sun-loving plants and not as hardy as the reticulata group. The first ones to bloom are the
Dutch Irises which are favorites among the flower arrangers. The white, yellow, blue, or
purple blooms appear in June named varieties to include Ideal, symphony, Wedgwood,
white Excelsior, royal yellow, lemon queen. Next to bloom are the English Irises which are
combinations of purple, mauve, white and blue. An example is the I.latifolia with 4” wide
blooms which are yellow with purple stripes. The final section of the Xiphium group is the
Spanish irises which bloom in July.

32
 21. Ixia
Scientific Name: I. viridiflora
 Bulb Uses: Garden Plant
 Bulb Type: Corm
 Colors Available:
Multiple Colors
 Flowering Period: April – June
 Soil type: Use a soilless compost – choose a brightly lit spot in
a cold or cool greenhouse.
 Plant particulars:
 Sowing time: September -- October
 Sowing depth: 2 in.
 Plant spacing: 1in. a 5 in.
 Height of Plant: 12-18 in.
 Method of Multiplication: Remove cormlets after lifting and store – plant in
autumn.
 Varieties: The color of ixia blooms are usually bright and the centers are
generally dark red or brown. When open the flowers are 1-2 in. (2.5-5cm)
across but they close on dull days. Several species are listed in specialist
catalogs - you may find I.paniculata the yellow-flowered I.maculata or the
green I.viridiflora. It is more usual to buy one of the hybrids rather than a
species as they are easier to grow –
examples include I.Hogarth
(yellow). Mabel (rose red), Nelson
(white), and Englishtown (pink).

33
 22. Muscari
Scientific Name: M. armeniacum, M. botryoides, M. macrocarpum
 Bulb Uses: Garden / Indoor Plant
 Bulb Type: True Bulb
 Colors Available:
Multiple Colors
 Flowering Period: February – April
 Soil type: any well-drained soil will do, thrives best in full sun.
 Plant particulars:
 Sowing time: September- October
 Sowing depth: 3”
 Plant spacing: 4”
 Height of Plant: 4—12”
 Method of Multiplication: divide clumps in autumn every 3 years – replant
at once.
 Varieties: the usual choice is M. armeniacum or one of its varieties. The basic
type grows about 6—9” high and bears blue flowers that have a white rim –
these blooms measure ¼” long and are fragrant. The foliage season is often
quite long, starting in autumn and
lasting until after April blooms are
withered. Blue Spikes are the
popular variety it is shorter than
species and the double flowers are
pale blue. Other varieties include
fantasy Creation, saffier. M.
azureum bears its dark striped
bright blue flowers in march—
Album is another white Muscari.
other several species look quite
different from all blue or all white varieties.

34
 23. Narcissus
Scientific Name: N. pseudonarcissus
 Bulb Uses: Garden / Indoor Plant
 Bulb Type: True Bulb
 Colors Available:
Multiple colors
 Flowering Period: February – April
 Soil type: any well-drained soil will do,
thrives in sun or light shade.
 Plant particulars:
 Sowing time: September -- October
 Sowing depth: Cover with soil to twice the Height
of Plant of the bulb.
 Plant spacing: 4-8”
 Height of Plant: 3-24”
 Method of Multiplication: Lift over-
crowded clumps in summer – divide, separate
offsets and replant without delay.
 Varieties:
 Division 1: Trumpet Daffodils
By popular usage the word 'Daffodil' is the common
name for all the varieties in this Division - the
common name 'Narcissus' is used for all other types.
King Alfred' (golden yellow, early) once dominated
this group, but it has died out and the word is used by
some suppliers for other all-yellow varieties. Its place
has been taken by Golden Harvest (golden yellow),
Rembrandt, and Unsurpassable' (yellow, mid-
season, good indoors). The best-known all-white is
'Mount Hood' (midseason) – others include 'Empress
of Ireland' (large, early), April Love (large, early),
and Beersheba' (early, good indoors). There are
numerous bi-colors- examples are 'Magnet' (white
with yellow trumpet, early), 'Spellbinder (yellow, fading to white, early), and 'Bravoure (white with
yellow trumpet, early). There are some 6 in. (15 cm) dwarfs such as Topolino (white with yellow
trumpet, early) and W. P. Milner' (white, very early).
 Division 2: Large cupped Narcissi

35
 One flower per stem – cup more than ½ the length of petals. Height of Plant 1 – 2ft. There are some fine
yellows. The large and popular arlton' (early) is good for planting doors, and so is Yellow Sun' very
early). Other popular all-yellows include the narrow-cupped 'St. Keverne (early) and "Gigantic Star'
(early). All-whites are less common, but you should be able to find 'Easter Moon' (mid-season) and
"Desdemona' (midseason). For something different look for the all-white sea Urchin' (late) with its
deeply serrated cup. This group has many splendid bi-colors in all sorts of combinations-examples
include 'Carbineer (yellow with orange cup late)-Professor Einstein' (white with orange cup, very
early), 'Sempre Avanti (cream with orange cup, early), 'Flower Record (white with orange-rimmed
yellow cup, early) and 'Fortune' for indoors or out (yellow with orange cup, early). The first orange-red
cup, late), white variety with a pink cup was Mrs. R O Backhouse'- modern one includes 'Salome',
'Rosy Sunrise and Salmon Trout.
 Division 3: SMALL CUPPED NARCISSI
 One flower per stem –cup less than ½ the length of petals. Height of Plant 1-1 ½’. There are several all-
white varieties such as ‘Angel’ (very late) and Frigid (late) but most types are bicolor with a red or
orange cup. The petals may be yellow as with Birma (mid-season) and Edward Buxton (early) or white
like Barret Browning and Aflame ( early).

36
 24. Nerine
Scientific Name: N. bowdenii
 Bulb Uses: Garden / Indoor
Plant
 Bulb Type: True Bulb
 Colors Available:
Multiple Colors
 Flowering Period: February – April
 Soil type: Well-drained soil, a
sheltered spot, and full sun are
necessary
 Plant particulars:
 Sowing time: September – October
 Sowing depth: 4”
 Plant spacing: 6”
 Height of Plant: 24”
 Method of Multiplication: Divide overcrowded clumps in spring—replant at once.
 Varieties: For indoor blooms, there are N. flexuosa which grows to 3’ and bears pink or
white flowers, and the Guernsey Lily which produces a tight group of white, orange, or
red blooms on 1-1/2’ stems. N. undulata bears nodding pink flowers. N. bowdenii is the
species to grow outdoors. The color is deep pink—the variety Pink Triumph has silvery
pink blooms. The foliage grows in spring and dies down in summer.

37
 25. OXALIS
Scientific Name: O adenophylla
 Bulb Uses: Garden / Indoor Plant
 Bulb Type: Tuber, rhizome, or true bulb
 Colors Available:
Multiple colors
 Flowering Period: February – April
 Soil type: Any well-drained soil will do—
thrives best in full sun
 Plant particulars
 Sowing time: September – October
 Sowing depth: 3”
 Plant spacing: 4”
 Height of Plant:2-6”
 Method of Multiplication: Divide
clumps in summer
 Varieties: Oxalis grows as a rounded clump
of clover-like leaves and 5-petalled flowers
which open wide when the sum shines.
Tender species include O. tetraphylla (pink
flowers, brown-marked leaves) and O. cernua
(yellow flowers). The most popular garden Oxalis is
O. adenophylla which grows about 3 in high. The
leaves are grey-green and the flowers are silver
splashed and veined with pink. It spreads to about 6
in. – O.enneaphylla in white, pink, or red is even
more restrained. O. lachinlata has mauve flowers
and the creeper O. chrysantha is yellow.

38
 26. POLIANTHES
Scientific Name: P.tuberosa
 Bulb Uses: Indoor Plant
 Bulb Type: Tuber
 Colors Available: White
 Flowering Period: August – September
 Soil type: Use soil-based or soilless compost-
choose a brightly lit spot away from direct sun.
 Plant particulars
 Sowing time: February – April
 Sowing depth: 1”
 Plant spacing: 1”
 Height of Plant:18-36”
 Method of Multiplication: Buy new tubers.
 Varieties: The basic species is P.tuberosa. At
the base, there is a clump of grassy 1 ft long
leaves and above them are the 3 ft high
flowering stems. The tubular flowers are borne
along the upper half of each a 1-2in. star. You are
more likely to find the double-flowering variety
‘The Pearl’ rather than the single-flowering species. This variety is shorter than its parent,
growing 1½-2 ft but its blooms are just as
fragrant.

39
 27. RANUNCULUS
Scientific Name: R . aslaticus
 Bulb Uses: Garden / Indoor Plant
 Bulb Type: Tuberous root
 Colors Available:
Multiple colors
 Flowering Period: February – April
 Soil type: Any well-drained soil will do-thrive best
in full sun.
 Plant particulars
 Sowing time: September -- October
 Sowing depth: 1”
 Plant spacing: 6”
 Height of Plant:12”
 Method of Multiplication: Divide clumps of
tuberous roots after lifting- replant in spring.
Varieties: There are several species, including R.
elliottians (yellow) and R. rehmannil (pink), plus many
hybrids in various colors for growing indoors. The most
popular one, however, can be grown outdoors, as
described below. R. aethioplca (White Arum Lily) will
survive the winter in early all areas if the crown is 6 in.
below the surface. Choose the variety ‘Crowborough’. It is
usually grown in the boggy
ground around a pond and the
blooms are truly eye-catching.
Cover the crowns with pet
mulch in winter.

40
 28. SCILLA
Scientific Name: B.slbirics
 Bulb Uses: Garden / Indoor Plant
 Bulb Type: True bulb
 Colors Available:
Multiple colors
 Flowering Period: February – April
 Soil type: Any well-drained moist soil will do-
thrive in full sun or light shade.
 Plant particulars
 Sowing time: September -- October
 Sowing depth: 2-4”
 Plant spacing:
 Height of Plant:12-24”
 Method of Multiplication: Divide overcrowded
clumps in August, September-replant at once.
Varieties: The earliest Squills are the dwarf species-
Height of Plant 3” Plant spacing 3” flowering period
February-March. There are S. tubergeniana which has
pale blue petals with blue strpes and S. bifolia which
has deep gentian-blue starry flowers. These dwarfs
make a lovely display in late winter, but the favorite
early-flowering species is the Siberian or Spril Squill S.
sibicica-Height of Plant 6”, Plant spacing 4” flowering
period March-April. The violet-blue ope bells are borne
in loose clusters-there is a white variety ‘Alba’ but the best
one is the dark blue, Spring Beauty. All of these very early and early Scillas can be planted
indoors for blooming in January-March- see the section on Bulbs in The Home for
particulars. The best-known species is, of course, the English Bluebell or Wild Hyacinth
which has a host of Latin names-S. non –script, S. nutans, Hyacinthoides non-scripta and
Endymion non-scripta. The basic particulars are Height of Plant 10” Plant spacing 4’,
flowering period April –May. Flowering at the same time is the 12-18” Spanish Bluebell S.
campanulata (Hyacinthoides hispanca)- blue, pink, and white varieties are available. Last to

41
flower is the Cuban Lily S. peruviana-Height of Plant 12”, Plant spacing 6” flowering period
May-June.

29. TIGRIDIA
Scientific Name: T. pavonia
 Bulb Uses: Garden /Indoor Plant
 Bulb Type: Tuber bulb
 Colors Available:
Multiple colors
 Flowering Period: February – April
 Soil type: A well-drained site in full sun is essential
 Plant particulars
 Sowing time: September – October
 Sowing depth: 4”
 Plant spacing: 6”
 Height of Plant:18”
 Method of Multiplication: Remove
offsets when plants are lifted in autumn.
Replant in spring
 Varieties: T. pavonia is the only
species for growing outdoors. Lift in
autumn as described above but you can
leave the bulbs in the ground if the site is
free-draining and sheltered in a milk
region of the country. The flowers
measure about 4” across. The 3 outer
petals are large and single-colored- the 3
inner petals are small and usually
splashed with dark red or purple. This
species is sold as a mixture rather than as
single-colored varieties.

42
 30. TULIP
Scientific Name: T. trada
 Bulb Uses: Garden /Indoor Plant
 Bulb Type: True bulb
 Colors Available: Multiple colors
 Flowering Period: February – April
 Soil type: Well-drained soil is necessary- thrives best in full sun.
 Plant particulars
 Sowing time: September -- October
 Sowing depth: Garden Tulips 6-8”. Botanical Tulips 4”
 Plant spacing: 4-8”
 Height of Plant:4-30”
 Method of Multiplication: Remove
bulblets at lifting time. Dry, store and replant
in late autumn.
 Varieties:
 Division 1: SINGLE EARLY TULIPS
Cup-shaped single flowers, smaller than
the late-flowering varieties. Flowers
early-mid April, Height of Plant 9-16”
Division 2: DOUBLE EARLY TULIPS
Fully double flowers that are long-lasting and
good for cutting. Flowers mid-April, Height
of Plant 9-16”
Division 3: TRIUMPH TULIPS
Single flowers-conical at first and then
founded. Large, but not as big as the Darwin Hybrids. Flowers late April early
May. Height of Plant 16-20”
Division 4: DARWIN HYBRID TUPLIS

43
Single flowers-usually rounded but there are various shapes. Very large on tall stems.
Flowers late April-early May. Height of Plant 24”

Division 5: SINGLE LATE TULIPS

Square or over single flowers. Large on tall stems. Flowers early-mid May. Height of
Plant 24-30”
Division 6: LILY-FLOWERED TULIPS
Single flowers with long pointed petals reflexed at the tips. Flowers early-mid May.
Height of Plant 20-24”
Division 7: FRINGED TULIPS
Single flowers with petals that are finely fringed at the edges. Flowers early-mid May.
Height of Plant 18-24”
Division 8: VIRIDIFLORA TULIPS
Single flowers with petals that are partly green. Flowers early-mid May. Height of Plant
12-20”
Division 9: REMBRANDT TULIPS
Single flowers with feathered, flamed, or streaked petals. Large. Flowers early-mid May.
Height of Plant 18-30”
Division 10: PARROT TULIPS
Single flowers with deeply frilled and wavy petals. Very large. Flowers early-mid May.
Height of Plant 20-24”
Division 11: DOUBLE LATE TULIPS
Fully double flowers that are large and long-lasting. Flowers mid-late May. Height of
Plant 16-24”
Division 12-15: BOTANICAL TULIPS
Species or varieties, plus hybrids of species in which all or some of the original features
are present. There is a wide range of flowering periods (March-May), flower shape, and
Height of Plant 4-20”. They can be left in the ground to spread.

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 31. ZANTEDESCHIA
Scientific Name: Z. zethloplca
 Bulb Uses: Garden / Indoor Plant
 Type of Bulb: True bulb
 Colors Available: Multiple color
 Flowering Period: February – April
 Soil type: Moist, humus-rich soil is essential. Thrives best in full sun.
 Plant particulars
 Sowing time: September -- October
 Sowing depth: 6”
 Plant spacing: 18”
 Height of Plant:24-36”
 Method of Multiplication: Divide clumps in late summer.
Varieties: There are several species, including Z. elliottians (yellow) and Z. rehmannil
(pink), plus many hybrids in various colors for growing indoors. The most popular one,
however, can be grown outdoors, as described below. Z. aethioplca (White Arum Lily) will
survive the winter in early all areas if the crown is 6 in. below the surface. Choose the
variety Crowborought’. It is usually grown in the boggy ground around a pond and the
blooms are truly eye-catching. Cover the crowns with pet mulch in winter.

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