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Servicing Your HMV Oil Filter

Keeping your HMV's engine running strong and clean, the HMV oil �lter

STEVE TURCHET • FEB 11, 2021

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B
ack in the days of acetylene headlights, most vehicles were not equipped with �lters to protect their
engines from dusty air or dirty oil. This was mostly because it was simply not known how much damage
dust and grit could do inside an engine such as scoring cylinder walls, scu�ng piston rings, and scouring
bearings and other moving parts. Of course, the tolerances in the engines of this period were loose and sloppy.
They were low-compression, low-RPM, and not very long-lived.

All engines could have been �tted with air cleaners if their manufacturers had realized the need. No matter how old
or primitive an internal-combustion engine might be, the air needed for combustion of fuel is sucked into its intake
manifold by vacuum created when the pistons go down on their intake strokes. Therefore, an engineʼs air may be
cleaned of dust and grit by pulling it through a �ne screen or �lter before it goes down the carburetor throat.

Oil �lters, on the other hand, would still have had to wait for a couple of decades.

Why? Because most early engines did not have oil pumps. Instead, they were lubricated by a splash system. There
was nothing except the action of the crankshaft and connecting rods to splash oil onto pistons and cylinder walls.
The crankshaft bearings were lubricated by dipping into the oil pan with every rotation. Itʼs di�cult to �lter oil thatʼs
simply being splashed around.

With a splash lubrication system, about the only way to �lter the oil is to put a screen in the �ller pipe so the oil gets
�ltered when you �rst pour it in. Indeed, many engines had such a screen... which may attest to the quality of motor
oil during those times. Even up into the 1970s, many gas stations still sold “bulk oil” of a nasty gray-green color from
glass quart jars with open funnel-like tops, and these open jars sat outside in racks no matter what the weather.

Still, if oil is of good quality. as well as changed often (Ford speci�ed 500 miles for the Model A), a splash system
works well enough on low-RPM engines with loose tolerances and thick babbit bearings.

Even into the mid-1950s, the Chevrolet 216 engine had only a small oil pump which provided lubrication to the
overhead valve rocker-arm assembly as well as to tubes in the oil pan which were aimed to shoot oil at dipper
spoons on the crankshaft bearings, while everything else was still lubricated by splash. However, most other car
and truck engines by this time had full pressure lubrication systems. Nevertheless, many of these engines still
didnʼt have oil �lters or �lters were o�ered as options or aftermarket items. There must be a way to push or pull the
oil through some sort of screen or �lter element. Therefore, an oil pump is needed.

As with air cleaners (another article), there are many kinds of oil �lters which use many kinds of �ltering media.
These range from simple wire mesh screens which keep out rocks and small animals, to sophisticated canisters
with replaceable paper or cotton elements that catch particles of metal and grit too small to be seen by the eye.
However, there are actually only two basic types of oil �lters: the BYPASS and the FULL-FLOW.

THE BYPASS AND FULL-FLOW OIL

FILTERS

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The most common bypass oil �lters historic military vehicle (HMV) hobbyists will �nd on their vehicles are the
Military Standard Junior and the Military Standard Senior. Later model HMVs, such as the M151 MUTT, the Kaiser
M715, and various CUCVs such as the M880, and the HMMWV, have full-�ow, “spin-on” �lters... a type with which
many people are familiar from changing the oil on their cars.

Itʼs easy to understand how both types work, because their names describe their function. The BYPASS type does
exactly what its name implies: A portion of the engine oil bypasses the main lubrication system and is routed
through the �lter, where particles of metal and dirt are trapped in the �lter element.

On the other hand, a FULL-FLOW type �lters all of the engineʼs oil, usually right after it leaves the oil pump under
pressure. On a few engines, though, the �lter is in the suction side of the system before the oil reaches the pump.

There are advantages and disadvantages to both types, so neither can really be called better than the other. The
important thing to remember is that neither type can protect your engine from dirty oil if you donʼt regularly service
and maintain it.

A full-�ow type �lters all the engine oil each time it makes a circuit through the lubricating system. Some might say
this is better, since all the oil is �ltered before it gets pumped to the bearings.

The problem is that, since all the oil must pass through a full-�ow �lter each time it goes around, the �lter element
cannot be restrictive. It cannot slow down the �ow of oil.

Therefore, the �ltering media of a full-�ow �lter cannot be made as �ne as a bypass type. It canʼt �lter out very
small particles of dirt and grit.

In addition, most engines with full-�ow �lters have a by-pass valve, either as part of the �lter body or incorporated
into the spin-on element. This valve is calibrated to open if the �lter becomes clogged. This allows oil to bypass the
�lter media and circulate through the engine as if there was no �lter at all.

THE BYPASS FILTER

A bypass �lter cleans only a portion of the oil each time it makes a circuit through the engine. Therefore, it can be
made �ner to trap smaller particles of dirt, grit, and metal.

From late 1930s up into the mid-1960s, there was a proliferation of aftermarket bypass oil �lters. Just about every
company that made �lter elements also o�ered cases to put them in. The result that was a bewildering array of
�lter choices. Unfortunately, for the owners of vintage vehicles today, itʼs almost impossible to �nd the elements for
many vintage bypass oil �lters, especially aftermarket types.

Some major manufacturers, such as AC and Fram, still make elements for some of their early �lter cases. Many of
these are “one-size-�ts-all.” Often, they donʼt come with the correct gaskets and seals to �t every vehicleʼs �lter
case.

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Many people believe theyʼre taking good care of their vintage car, truck or HMV by regularly changing the engine oil
and �lter elements. If theyʼre using an element that doesnʼt seal inside the �lter case, it doesnʼt actually �lter the
oil!

Most bypass oil �lters, such as those used on many common HMVs — jeeps, WCs, early deuces, and M37s —
function at all pressures whenever the engine is running. In other words, they are an alternate route for a portion of
the oil to take as it circulates through the engine. Oil is pumped into them — usually from an oil gallery in the engine
block — and then is dumped back into the pan or timing cover after being �ltered.

So, even if your WC is only running 5 psi of oil pressure, at least its bypass �lter is �ltering. That is, assuming it has
the right element, and isnʼt clogged with crud!

As you may have guessed, there has to be some sort of restrictor in these systems or most the oil would take the
path of least resistance, �owing through the �lter and back into the pan instead of to the engine bearings.

On some �lters, the restrictor is in the caseʼs center tube and is simply a small metering hole. On other engines, the
restrictor may be a separate �tting. It might be located either on the �lter case or where the �lter outlet hose or
tube connects to the engine. On a some vehicles, the restrictor is inside the engine, often in the timing cover.

The restrictor is very important when it comes to maintaining an engineʼs correct oil pressure. As many HMV
owners have found, this restrictor is sometimes missing on basket-case HMV engines — especially jeep engines.

Additionally, there is a usually a spring-loaded valve on or near the oil pumps in the engines of most common HMVs,
and its function is to prevent too much oil pressure in the system. This valve is calibrated to let oil bypass back into
the crankcase if the pressure becomes too great. More is not always better, because too much oil pressure can
damage front and rear crankshaft seals, letting oil leak onto the clutch, and leave your engine low on oil out on the
road.

Occasionally, this valve may become jammed, especially on vehicles that havenʼt received proper maintenance and
regular oil changes. I once bought an M37 that always pinned its 60 psi oil pressure gauge, even at idle. I thought
this was a typical malfunction of M-series gauges and checked it with a mechanical gauge. It pinned at 120! This
explained the truckʼs insatiable oil consumption — and all of the puddles it left when parked.

Itʼs not a good idea to try to increase your vehicleʼs oil pressure by stretching the spring in this valve or by adding
washers to it. (This, is a common trick used by some morally-bankrupt vehicle sellers to boost oil pressure in a worn
out engine.

SERVICING A BY-PASS OIL FILTER

When should your oil �lter be serviced? Every time you change your oil — hopefully, thatʼs before it begins to look
like tar! Keep in mind that motor oil can look clean but still be worn out. This is why you should establish a regular
changing schedule.

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For HMVs that are driven regularly, 3,000 miles is a good interval to change the oil and service the �lter. For vehicles
only used for short trips and that never get fully warmed up, moisture will contaminate the oil. This will form acids
that eat away at bearings and cylinder walls. For vehicles used for short trips, you should change the oil more often.

An old shade-tree practice was to service the oil �lter only every other time the oil was changed. This is not a good
idea. If you donʼt service the �lter whenever you change the oil, youʼre usually leaving at least a quart of dirty old oil
in the engine.

If you have just acquired an HMV with a bypass oil �lter and/or have had no previous experience with this type, here
is the service procedure:

• Youʼll �nd that servicing is rather messy compared to the spin-on full-�ow �lter on your civilian car or truck. Have
plenty of clean rags or paper towels on hand.

• As when changing the oil on any vehicle, the engine should be well warmed-up. Drive it a few miles so all the
gunk and goo is suspended in the oil and not left in the bottom of the pan. Never drain your oil cold.

• After the warm-up (the oil pan should be hot to touch) remove the oil pan plug and drain the oil into a suitable
container.

• While the pan is draining, open the �lter case by unscrewing the large bolt on top. On some �lters this bolt is
removable from the cover, but on others it isnʼt, so donʼt try to pull it out if it doesnʼt want to come out.

• Remove the cover. Oil shouldnʼt pour out when you do this, but itʼs wise to be prepared. If the cover is stuck, tap
it gently upward with a wrench or small hammer.

• For a minimum of mess, donʼt remove the �lter element yet. Instead, get a co�ee can or other container — one
thatʼs obviously large enough to hold all the oil in the �lter.

• Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the �lter case and let the oil drain into the can. Wait for most of the
oil to drain out of the element. Five minutes is usually su�cient.

• On the other hand, if you want lots of mess, yank the element out right now. Some �lters donʼt have drain plugs,
so youʼll have a mess anyway...but at least it will be a smaller mess.

• Did you consider where you where going to put the dripping element before you pulled it out? Likely itʼs also hot.

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• Incidentally, if you donʼt loosen or remove the cover before you open the drain plug, you will usually have an air-
lock inside the �lter case and the oil will take much longer to drain.

• Because the bottom of the case isnʼt �at, there will be a little oil left inside, but when youʼve drained all you can,
remove the element from the case. If it was the correct element, it should �t tightly around the center tube, and
some e�ort may be required to remove it. Twisting it while pulling may help.

• Thoroughly clean the inside of the case to get all the guck out of the bottom. On �lters that donʼt have drain
plugs, this will be a messy job because youʼll have to use rags or paper towels to sop out all the oil and goo. If
using paper towels, make sure they donʼt come apart and leave wads of paper in the �lter case. If the �lter is full
of sludge, you may want to �ush it out with solvent, or remove it from the vehicle for a thorough cleaning.

• Some �lters may have a tension spring under the cover bolt to hold the element in position. Other types may
have a spring in the bottom of the case. Some may have springs top and bottom. But the important thing is
that your new element must seal tightly around the center tube.

• Assuming your old element was correct, compare the old and new to see if theyʼre the same. The correct
element for this type of �lter not only seals tightly around the center tube, but it also �lls the �lter case. Some
“universal replacement” elements donʼt seal on the bottom, and these are of no use in this type of �lter. They
will not �lter at all!

• Many “one-size-�ts-all” elements are smaller than the correct originals. If you �nd one of these inside your case
youʼll have to do your homework and go shopping for the right element.

• After youʼve cleaned the �lter case, youʼre ready to install the new element. If there are any additional sealing
washers, usually �ber types, make sure theyʼre in place.

• Put some new oil on the elementʼs seals and slip it down over the center tube until itʼs fully seated. Oiling the
tube itself may be helpful.

• Install the caseʼs drain plug (if any).

• Now prime the �lter by �lling it with new engine oil. This is important! If you donʼt prime the �lter, it will take
longer for the engine to build up oil pressure after you start it. Priming a �lter takes a little time because the oil
has to soak into the element. Be patient and keep adding oil until the case remains full. You may not be able to
�ll the case all the way to the top because oil will run back into the engine through the outlet, but �ll it until the
level remains constant.

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• Now replace the �ber washer under the coverʼs top bolt, if such a washer is used. If your new element didnʼt
come with one of these washers, itʼs okay to reuse the old one if it seems in good shape. Otherwise youʼll have to
make a new one, or visit an auto parts store to �nd an oil pan drain plug washer the right size. A nylon washer
will also work, but donʼt use a rubber washer unless youʼre sure itʼs compatible with engine oil. Coat the washer
with new engine oil before installing it.

• Install the new cover gasket. Donʼt use gasket sealer. Coat both sides with new engine oil. And never use
silicone! One might be amazed by all the damage Iʼve seen silicone gasket sealer do to engines and machinery
when it goes where it shouldnʼt be.

• Sometimes you can reuse the old cover gasket and keep the new one for a spare. Preserve it with WD-40 in a
baggie.

• If you �nd you have to make this gasket, use heavy gasket paper. Most common rubber — such as a piece of old
inner-tube — will soon swell up, get �abby, and leak.

• Tighten the center bolt �rmly, but donʼt over-tighten or you might distort the �lter cover. If in doubt as to how
tight is tight, itʼs better to leave it a little looser than you might think it should be. If the gasket leaks under
pressure once you start the engine, tighten it more.

• Now replace the engineʼs oil pan plug and �ll the pan with new oil to the correct dipstick level.

• Start the engine. Do not rev it up! Wait for oil pressure to show on the gauge. As soon as it does, leave the
engine idling and check for leaks at the �lter. Tighten the cover bolt, if necessary. Also check for other leaks,
such as around the oil pan drain plug.

• After the engine has idled a few minutes, shut it o�. Wait a few more minutes, then check the oil level on the
dipstick. You may need to add a bit more oil.

Thatʼs all there is to servicing most HMV bypass type oil �lters.

SERVICING SPIN-ON OIL FILTERS

While many people have serviced this type on their civilian cars and trucks, others have always had their oil changed
at a garage or quick-lube joint. Changing the oil and replacing the �lter on their M715, M151, M880, or HMMWV may
be a new experience for these people.

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