BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology

Faculty of Apparel Merchandising & Management

Delicate Garments LTD - Delicate Group

Submitted to (Supervisor):
Nasrin Jamine
Lecturer
Dept. of Apparel Merchandising & Management (AMM)
BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT)

Submitted By :
Adnan Bin Rashid
ID: 181-121-111
Department of AMM
BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT)

This Internship Report Submitted in Partial Fulfillment of the requirements for the Degree of
Bachelor in Apparel merchandising & Management in the Faculty of Apparel Studies of
BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology (BUFT)

Department of Apparel merchandising & Management (AMM)

24th March, 2022

i
 Department of Apparel merchandising & Management (AMM)

Delicate Garments Ltd - Delicate Group

01th October to 30th December, 2021

Submitted to (Supervisor):
Nasrin Jamine
Lecturer
Dept. of Apparel Merchandising & Management (AMM)
BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT)

Submitted By :
Adnan Bin Rashid
ID: 181-121-111
Department of AMM
BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT)

Exam Committee:
Examiner 1(Supervisor): ______________________________________ Signature:
Examiner 2(External Member): _________________________________ Signature:
Examiner 3(External Member): _________________________________ Signature:

24th March, 2022

ii
 EXECEUTIV SUMMARY

I have completed my two months internship program from a well-known industry named
“DELICATE GARMENTS LTD. - DELICATE GROUP”. During my internship period
in “DELICATE GARMENTS LTD. - DELICATE GROUP”.I have gained valuable
knowledge and experience in the field of Merchandising, production and washing. So
based on my learning and experience from the organization I have completed my
internship report on Merchandising for “DELICATE GARMENTS LTD. - DELICATE
GROUP”. In this paper I have tried to focus and analyze the core Material Management
and marketing system of “DELICATE GARMENTS LTD. - DELICATE GROUP” and
what kind of value-added services they are providing to their Buyer and Supplier. In the
report I have discussed what kind of activities I have done describes in details in
production and washing Department. Material sourcing, Purchasing & procurement,
Inventory, in housing etc.

In the terms of Merchandising, I have basically discussed about the Executive Search of
materials from the Supplier and Marketing of the garments to the customer. In SIL
supplier relationship is very confidential. In case of training, I have tried to explain the
different area of Sourcing. These are: current price of materials, how to get quality
material with a minimum cost. In the methodology I have mentioned 30 population size
and 7 sample size. In recommendations how the industry can improve and also give some
suggestions. In this report the problems, scope, limitations and various analyses are also
done.

In this report I have also tried to analyze the benefits of these services as well as my
learning from the organization. From my personal view the learning aspect was fruitful
and the experience there will help me in the future. I have learnt many aspects of
Merchandising, working with different sections of the company. Mainly working with
SCM and Warehouse of the company was a great learning opportunity.

iii
 DECLARATION

Herewith I assure that that I have done industrial internship in Delicate Garments LTD,
Industrial Supervisor: Abdul Mannan Apu, Duration: 01th November 2021 to 30th
December 2021.

Adnan Bin Rashid (181-121-111)

Signature

iv
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

I would like to extend thanks to Honorable Founder Chairman, Board of Trustees Mr.
Muzaffar U. Siddique, BUFT, for not only for his tremendous academic support, but
also for giving me so many wonderful opportunities and logistic supports to do this
project.

Special thank goes to my enthusiastic Prof. Dr. S.M. Mahfuzur Rahman, Vice
Chancellor, BUFT and Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan, Pro Vice Chancellor, BUFT,
who so generously
inspired & contributed to do this type of project work.

Special thanks go to our Department head Md. Rafiqul Islam Manik and my enthusiastic
supervisor, Nasrin Jamine has been an amazing experience and I thank him
wholeheartedly, not only for his tremendous academic support, but also for giving me so
many wonderful opportunities.

Similar, profound gratitude goes to HOD, who has been a truly dedicated mentor. I
would like to extend thanks to all of persons, who contributed to the work presented in
this project. Specially I have to mention the name of Industrial Personnel Mr.- Abdul
Mannan Apu.

v
 Table of Contents

Topic Name Page no.

Summery iii

Declaration iv

Acknowledgement v

Letter of Transmittal vi

List of Figures xi

List of Table xii

Abbreviations xiii

CHAPTER: 1 FACTORY OVERVIEW 01

1.1 Introduction 01

1.2 Objective of Industrial Attachment 01

1.3 Aim and of Industrial Attachment 01

1.4 Factory Information 02

1.5 Shifts 02

1.6 Capacity 02

1.7 Other Information 03

1.8 Statistics at a Glance 03

1.9 Mission 03

CHAPTER: 2 ADMINISTRATION 04

2.1 Administration 04

2.2 Director 04

2.3 Flow Chart of Administration Department 04

vi
2.4Responsibilities of Administration Department 05

CHAPTER: 3 MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT 06

3.1 Introduction 06

3.2 Structure of fashion industry 07

3.3 From buyers‟ perspective 07

3.4 Advantages of merchandising 08

3.5 Disadvantages of merchandising 08

3.6 Some Types of Merchandisers 08

3.6.1 Marketing Merchandiser: 08

3.6.2 Production merchandiser: 09

3.6.3 Planning merchandiser 09

3.7 Qualities of a Good Merchandiser 10

3.7.1 Ability to create a halo effect 11

3.7.2 Quick Decision making 11

3.7.3 Communication Skills 11

3.7.4 Ability to Convince 11

3.7.5 Ability to work in a team 12

3.7.6 Analytical Ability 12

3.8 List of Buyer 13

3.9 Costing 14

3.10 Fabric Sourcing 14

3.11 Type of Fabric Re Input 15

3.12 Sourcing of Trims and Accessories 15

3.13 Various Types of Accessories used in garments 19

vii
3.14 Production Execution and Tracking 19

3.15 Arranging Final Inspection 19

CHAPTER: 4 Sample Department 20

4.1 Sample room 20

4.2 Sample room‟s working procedure 20

4.3 Types of sample 21

4.3.1 Proto Sample / First sample 21

4.3.2 Fit sample 21

4.3.3 Size set sample 21

4.3.4 Counter sample 22

4.3.5 Salesman sample (SMS) 22

4.3.6 Pre-production sample (PPS) 22

4.3.7 Top of production sample (TOP) 22

4.3.8 GPT sample 22

4.3.9 Shipment sample 23

4.3.10 Press samples 23

4.3.11 Development sample 23

4.4 Product layout with machine name & needle name & size 23

4.4.1 T shirt (woman) 23

4.4.2 Short Pant 24

CHAPTER: 5 PRODUCTION 25

5.1 Production 25

5.2 Main Products 25

5.3 Product Development 25

viii
5.4 Production process 26

CHAPTER: 6 TESTING 28

6.1 Testing Method 28

6.2 Purpose and Significance of Textile Method 28

6.3 Objectives of Textile Method 28

6.4 Factors Affecting Test Result 29

6.5 Objects of Fabrics Testing 29

6.6 Importance of Testing Equipment in Apparel or Garment 31

Business

CHAPTER: 7 FABRIC SPREADING & CUTTING 32

7.1 Fabric Spreading 32

7.2 Purpose of Fabric Spreading 32

7.3 Factors of Fabric Spreading 33

7.4 Some Basic Requirements of Fabric Spreading 33

7.5 Things to Remember While Fabric Spreading 34

7.6 Method of Spreading 34

7.7 Method of Splicing 34

7.8 Work flow of cutting section 35

7.9 Defects of cutting section 35

CHAPTER: 8 QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM 36

8.1 Quality Assurance System 36

8.2 Quality Assurance Procedure 37

8.3 Various type of defect 37

8.4 Quality Standard 38

ix
 CHAPTER: 9 PATTERN MAKING & CAD 39
DEPARTMENT
9.1 Pattern making 40

9.2 CAD Section work flow 40

9.3 CAD 40

9.4 The procedure of CAD Section 41

9.5Types of marker 41

CHAPTER: 10 MACHINE DESCRIPTION & 42

MAINTENANCE
10.1 Machine Maintenance 42

10.2 Types of Maintenance 42

10.3 Sewing machine maintenance & safety policy practice 44

10.4 Daily Sewing Machine Check Points 44

10.5 Monthly Sewing machine maintenance/servicing checklist 44

10.6 Machine Description 45

10.7 Different types of machines used in garment production 47

CHAPTER: 11 STORE & INVENTORY SYSTEM 49

11.1 Store Section 49

11.2 Accessories & Trims Are Parts of Finished Garment. A Lot 49

of Accessories & Trims Are Used

11.3 Grey Fabrics Store 49

11.4 Spares 50

x
 CHAPTER: 12 COMPLIANCE 51

12.1 Definition of Compliance 51

12.2 Steps for Implementing ISO 51

12.3 Work Procedure of ISO 52

12.4 Responsibilities & Duties 52

12.5 Work Procedure of WRAP 53

12.6 Rules of Warp 55

12.7 Using Equipment 56

CHAPTER: 13 INTERNSHIP RESPONSIBILITY 57

13.1 Internship Responsibility 57

13.2 My Job Consisted of The Following 57

RECOMMENDATION & CONCLUSION 58

Recommendation 58

Conclusion 59

xi
 List of Figures

Fig. Name Page no.

Fig 1.4 Delicate Group 02

Fig 3.1 Fashion Merchandising 06

Fig 3.2 Buying Export 07

Fig3.13: Trims & Accessories 18

Fig 4.1 Flowchart of time study 25

Fig 8.1 AQL Chart 40

Fig 10.1 7 Different types of machine 51

Fig 12.1 Steps for Implementing ISO 54

Fig 3.16: Merchandiser room 19

Fig 5.3: Production Department 25

Fig 7.2 .1Cutting room 32

Fig 7.2.2 Cutting room 32

Fig:9.1 CAD room 39

Fig:9.1.1 Pattern Machine 39

Fig 11.4: Store room 50

xii
 List of Tables

Content name Page no.

3.8 List of Buyer 26

3.13 Various Types of Accessories used in garments 28

8.3 Various type of defect 50

10.6 Machine Description 58

xiii
 Abbreviations
ILO = International Labor Organization
PPI = Picks per Inch
EPI = Ends per Inch
CNF = Clearing & Forwarding
GATT =Generalized Agreement on Tariffs and
Taxes
GSP = Generalized System of Preferences
ISO = International Organization for
Standardization GDP = Growth Domestic
Product
CAD = Computer Aided Design
PSI = Pre-Shipment Inspection
BB L/C = Back to Back L/C
L/C = Letter of Credit
BL = Bill of Loading
NSA = No Seam Allowance
C & F = Cost& Freight
FOB = Free On Board
AQL = Acceptable Quality Level
WTO = World Trade Organization
RMG = Ready Made Garments
BGMEA= Bangladesh Garments Manufacturers and Exporters Association
BKMEA = Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers & Exporters Association

xiv
 CHAPTER: 1

Introduction

1.1 FACTORY OVERVIEW:

Theory products the descriptions of the events in scientific or philosophical environments

and hence provides the tools that may or may not be used while active the related subject.
Practical skills are in turn the competences to address the tests in the real time setting. So
theory and applied skills have to almost go composed, with a little variation of one of
them taking a little lead. That is why, as an integral part of our course (Apparel
Merchandising & Management) we have to do Industrial Training path, which combines
our both the theoretical and practical knowledge. This course is an indispensable part of
the Textile Technology sequencer.

1.2 Objective of Industrial Attachment:

Bachelor in Apparel merchandising & Management is the combination of theoretical

knowledge along with the practical involvement. We as the Graduates Apparel
Merchandising & Management of must acquire adequate real-world knowledge to cope
up with the challenge that we will face in future. This is why the Industrial Training has
been included in our academic prospectus.

The main objective of this training is to understand our theoretical knowledge along with
the practical information. It also enables us to orient ourselves with the practical
environment that we will work in approaching.

1.3 Aim and of Industrial Attachment

1. To improve our university learning experience through involvement in industrial

arena, thus enabling us to relate theoretic concepts with practical situations.
2. To advance our ability to evaluate issues and situations critically and propose well
considered Options and responses.
3. To develop and enhance our professional consciousness and communication
skills.

1
1.4 Factory Information

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE GROUP

Fig: 1.4 Delicate Group

Factory name: Delicate Garments LTD. – Delicate Group.

Managing Director: Md. Delowar Hossain

Location: Hemaytpur, Savar, Dhaka

Established: 2012

Total man power: 1200 (One thousand two hundred)

Production line: 17

1.5 Shifts:

General Shift 08:00am - 5:00pm

1.6 Capacity:

Annual Production Capacity 6500 pieces of garments per day

Annual Turnover USD 133.21 Million (2017).

2
1.7 Other Information

Established in 2012, DELICATE GARMENTS LTD. - DELICATE GROUP is one of the

longest running garment manufacturing companies in Bangladesh. Over the years, the
company has grown substantially in both size and customer base. It has one of the largest
garment manufacturing facilities in Bangladesh. In addition, the company has its own in-
house garment washing, printing, embroidery, apparel design, garment testing and
various accessories production facilities. Delicate Garments ltd. - Delicate Group has one
of the most comprehensive and technical manufacturing systems in the country. From the
beginning of the order process to the end; we provide a complete and efficient solution
each step of the way. Our production lines utilize the newest technologies available in the
market; which alongside our highly skilled workforce are able to produce garments with
the highest quality.

1.8 Statistics at a Glance

 Established on 2012
 Vertically integrated facilities
 Current woven capacity averages at 6500 pieces (Woven) per day
 Over 1200 full-time employees throughout the company

1.9 Mission

To provide the clothing retail market quality, price competitive and timely ready-made
garments (RMG) produced under both socially and environmentally responsible
conditions.

3
 CHAPTER: 2
ADMINISTRATION
2.1 Administration

Administration refers to the group of individuals who are in charge of creating and
enforcing rules and regulations, or those in leadership positions who complete important
tasks. Administration is defined as the act of managing duties, responsibilities, or rules.
The act or process of administering, especially the management of a government or large
institution. It can be appointed by the courts, the holder of the assets of a business or a
company.

2.2 Director

An Administrative Director, or Chief Administrative Officer, is responsible for the

administrative, operational and financial support of an organization. The duties of an
Administrative Director include long-term strategic planning, overseeing daily
operations, delegating tasks to staff and managing personnel.

2.3 Flow Chart of Administration Department

Planning
↓
Organizing
↓
Staffing
↓
Directing
↓
Controlling
↓
Budgeting

4
Planning: Planning is deciding in advance what to do? How to do it? When to do it? The
planning function involves establishing goals & arranging them in a logical order.

Organizing: Organizing involves identifying responsibilities to be performed groping

responsibilities into departments or divisions & specifying organizational relationships.

Staffing: Staffing means filling job positions with the rights of people at the right time. It
involves determining staffing needs, screening people to fill the positions.

Directing: Directing is loading people in a manner that achieves the goals of the
organization. Directing requires exceptional inter-personal skills the ability to motivate
people.

Controlling: Controlling is a function that evaluates in all areas & detects potential or
actual deviations from the organization plan. Controlling includes information
management, measurement of performance institution of corrective actions.

Budgeting: Budgeting, exempted from the list above, incorporates most of the
administrative functions, beginning with the implementation of a budget plan through the
application of budget controls.

2.4 Responsibilities of Administration Department

 Division of Work: allows for job specialization.

 Authority and Responsibility: Right to give orders.
 Discipline: Common efforts of workers.
 Unity of Command: Employees should have only one boss
 Unity of Direction: A single plan of action to guide the organization
 Centralization: Degree to which authority rests at the top of the organization.
 Scalar Chain: Chain-like authority scale.
 Subordination: Of individual interests to the general interests of the organization

5
 CHAPTER: 3
MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
3.1 Introduction

The term “Merchandiser” defined as a „Person who do buying and selling of goods for
the purpose of making a profit.‟ In fashion industry there are different types of
merchandising profiles which are meant to perform different types of functions all
together at different stages of fashion industry. Over the years of the growth of
merchandising as a discipline in the fashion industry, there have been many changes in
the job profile of the merchandiser. It has charges from a simple to a much more complex
job transcending almost all functions in fashion industry. This has led to a change in the
skills required for the job and evolution of the discipline of fashion merchandising.

Different types of merchandising in fashion industry can be described in following way.

Fig 3.1 Fashion Merchandising

6
3.2 Structure of fashion industry:

The structure of fashion industry is changes from strategies adopted by the buyers from
different country. But the common trend followed in the industry is as.

Fig 3.2 Buying Export

All over the world this structure is followed, sometimes buyer directly places the order
with exporter. But about 60-70% of total business of fashion products is run through the
buying house. In all this process the merchandiser plays the important role.

3.3 From buyers’ perspective:

• To find out the market trend

• To make the forecast of market, in order to develop the new style

• Product development is done by merchandiser

• Development of new line for the next season

• Line plan is developed by the merchandiser

• Make the marketing calendar

• To make Communication and coordination with buying house and manufacturer

merchandiser is needed

7
3.4 Advantages of merchandising:

 Merchandising Job is very demanding

 Well paid designation
 Opportunity to travel
 Personal growth
 As it is a multiple activity job designation, hence easy to move in related area.
 Wide varieties of job opportunities are available.
 Contact with the people from different background, culture, country,

3.5 Disadvantages of merchandising:

• Excessive work load

• Excessive travelling

• Antisocial approach

• Huge competition

• Rigidity in training program

• Long and late working hours

3.6 Some Types of Merchandiser

3.6.1 Marketing Merchandiser:

The main job of marketing merchandiser is to do the marketing of the factory in the
market and get the new buyers and the new orders. Once order is confirmed from the
buyer, then marketing merchandiser will hand over the orders to the production
merchandiser for the further follow ups.

8
3.6.2 Production merchandiser:

Production merchandisers are the face of garment industry. They normally represent the
garment industry to the buyer. The role of production merchandiser is very crucial as the
success of any export order is largely depends on performance and coordination skill of
production merchandiser. The role of production merchandiser can be summarized as
follows

 Communication with buyer

 Coordination within the production
 Follow up of different approvals
 Product development
 Costing
 Sourcing or purchasing of raw material
 Preparation of BOM, TNA and trim card
 Shipment scheduling
 Communication with freight forwarder

3.6.3 Planning merchandiser:

Main responsibility of planning merchandiser is to do the production planning. Planning

merchandiser normally coordinates with sourcing team to get all the raw material
delivery dates and with Industrial Engineering department for get the SAM value of the
garments. Then along with production team planning merchandiser will do the planning
of production by considering the efficiency and absenteeism of the operator. Planning
merchandiser also needs to coordinates with cutting and packaging department in order to
send the accurate merchandise on time to buyer.

 Function of a Merchandiser
 Fabric requirement calculation (consumption. YPD)
 Accessories requirement, Calculation.
 Sourcing of fabric.

9
  Sourcing of accessories
 Production follow-up with fabric and accessories, be possible date of arrival of
fabric and accessories in garment factory
 Costing of garments.
 Garment analysis and production planning.
 Performa making, swatch making and distribution of the production unit and
quality control people.
 Pre-shipment inspection schedule.
 Shipment documents.
 Have to prepare proper time and action plan.
3.7 Qualities of a Good Merchandiser

To be a successful merchandiser it is required to have several qualities and this

requirement depends on what type of merchandising job a person is involved with. For
every type of merchandising job a person should have the following characteristics and
qualities:
 Ability to Create a Halo Effect
 Ability to Calculate Fast and Accurate
 Decision Making
 Business Communication Skill
 Ability to Convince Buyers
 Ability to Work with Team Members
 Good Analytical Capability
 Enough Knowledge of Garments Industry
 Basic Computer Skills of Office Applications
 Hard Worker and Self-Motivation

10
3.7.1 Ability to create a halo effect

Halo effect is the first impression a person creates for others. A positive impression help
to bring the outcome easily, but there is a huge negative effect of the negative impression.
As a successful merchandiser, every merchandiser tries to create a good Ability to
calculate.

As a merchandiser, you need to calculate several measurement and consumption which

will help you to find the result easily and make a quick decision. Basic conversion factor
must be known by the merchandisers. To improve these skills ones can practice more and
more with a numerical digit.

3.7.2 Quick Decision making

When dealing with clients sometimes merchandiser may require taking an important
decision, this should be quick enough so that normal flow of conversion not interrupt.
Thinking the power of a person helps to make a quick decision.

3.7.3 Communication Skills

This one is the most important skills of all types of merchandising jobs. Every
merchandiser must have this communication skill because most of the time they need to
contact the clients or suppliers. Merchandisers make communication directly or over the
phone call. Now a day‟s communication with clients around the world is easier because
of easy access to the internet.

3.7.4 Ability to Convince

Convincing power of a person added value to the personal skills if a merchandiser can
convince then it would be possible to get the order from the customers.

3.7.5 Ability to work in a team

Merchandiser work in a large organization may require working in a team and the success
of the team is depending on the cooperation and coordination among the group members.

11
Those who can easily adapt to a group easily are getting extra support from the group
members. In a merchandiser team, a group o people work for a particular objective that‟s
why they need to have the ability and intention to work in a team. Remember one thing; a
team is more effective than a group.

3.7.6 Analytical Ability

Analysis of the situation helps to identify future demand and supply of goods. If a
merchandiser has a good analytical ability of trends then he will get some extra benefit.

Every merchandiser must have adequate knowledge about the industry for which he is
working. Lack of knowledge may lead to an unsuccessful contract with the buyers. Think
about it, if you do not have any idea about your industry and your product then how you
will manage your customer. As merchandising is very challenging job ones must have a
clear concept of your own industry product and services.

12
3.8 List of Buyer

Delicate Garments ltd. - Delicate Group customers are typically the top brand importers
and retailers from the United States as well as Western European countries with year
round programs. Some programs are direct from the stores while others are through
importers for major retail chains. Some of their valuable customers are:

Ulla Pophen

Next

Fashion Flow

Texibo

Metro

Eurosia

Rusha

Carry

New look

GLF

13
3.9 Costing

After confirmation of an order merchandiser makes a cost sheet to see if the product is
feasible or not in terms of cost and revenue. Merchandiser calculates the cost of products
including all wastes and accessories to tell the final cost of the product to the buyer.

Merchandiser negotiates on the price to convince his buyers on specific price to lessen
the chances of loss. The aim of negotiation/approach “Win Win solution” –both parties is
benefited.

The costing will be determined by a few relevant criteria, as the cost breakdown will vary
according to –

 The business nature of the company (Trading office, manufacture)

 The payment condition (FOB,CIF)
 The manufacturing conditions applied (CM,CMT,CMQ,CMQT)
 The types of garments the company produces (woven, cut & sewn woven,
sweater)

3.10 Fabric Sourcing

After negotiation the merchandiser tries to find from where fabric can be found as per
buyer requirement. There are two sources of fabric –

 Local sources
 Overseas
 South China
For both local and foreign it needs to open a L/C. generally back-to-back L/C is used to
collect fabric.

14
3.11 Type of Fabric Re Input

There are three main types of fabrics namely

(a) woven

(b) wovented and

(c) non-woven.

3.12 Sourcing of Trims and Accessories

For preparing a product, it requires various types of trims and accessories. These are very
much important for textile product. Such as: button, label, tag, pin etc. it is the duty of a
merchandiser to source accessories before start production.

3.13 Various Types of Accessories used in garments

Name of Use Sample of Accessories

Accessories

4 Hole Deferent type of shirt,

plastic pant use.
button.

4 Hole Adjustable elastic is

clear button use.

Shank Deferent type of shirt,

button & pant use.
attaché

15
Tip button Deferent type of shirt
are use.

Hook set

Name of
Accessories

Buckle
steel

Plastic Deferent type of belt.

buckle

Alarm tag

Care label Use for garments care

(cotton) lebel instruction.

Care label Use for garments carele

(satin) instruction.

16
Adjustable Use for belt
woven
Elastic

Cotton
Tape

Twill tape

Hang Tag

Size Tag

Woven
Interlining

Pocketing Use for pocket making

fabric

17
Woven
Elastic

String for
hangtag
attach.

Metal
zipper

Hanger.

Elastics.

Fig3.13: Trims & Accessories

18
3.14 Production Execution and Tracking

Merchandiser always closely monitors the manufacturing process as an „eye‟ of the buyer
to ensure quality and on time shipment.

 Cutting the fabric: After confirmation of production and approval of the fabrics
from the buyer, the cutting master starts cutting the fabric.
 Sewing: In sewing section the cut fabrics are joined by sewing.
 Washing: It is most important factor in garments sector. In different stages of
production, various spots we found in products that are needed to wash. Garments
washing are done according to buyer recommendations.
 Ironing: Products are ironed for better finishing. Ironed product looks nice and
shiny.
 Packaging: packaging may be defined as activities of designing and producing the
container or the wrapper for the product. General the packaging could be
considered as the silent salesman of the product. When garments are exported to
the buyers, different instructions are followed.

3.15 Arranging Final Inspection

After completion of the Garment making, merchandiser arranges final inspection date
with quality department. Inspection is also depending on the wishes of buyer.

3.16 Ensuring on Time Shipment

Once the shipment is done and found okay for shipment, then the goods are handed over
the clearing and forwarding agent for on time shipment.

Fig 3.16: Merchandiser room

19
 CHAPTER: 4
Sample Department
4.1 Sample room:
A sample is that by which any person can understand the production, qualities, and
performance of the total garment export order. The sample is made in the sample room
according to the buyer‟s instructions. It can ensure the garment buyer as well as the
customer about the pre and post condition of the garments ordered.

Fig 5.2: Sample room

4.2 Sample room’s working procedure:

Marker pattern collect according to order sheet from CAD room > Fabric lay on the table
and marking on fabric according to marker > cut the fabric > and sent to the sewing
section to make the sample > The sample check by Q.C > And send to the buyer.

20
4.3 Types of sample:
1. Proto sample /First sample

2. Fit sample

3. Size set sample

4. Salesman sample

5. Photo shoot sample

6. Development sample

7. PP sample

8. TOP sample

9. GPT sample

10. Shipment sample

11. Press sample

4.3.1. Proto Sample / First sample:

The first sample that is developed from the design sketch or the design concept is known
as proto sample. Proto samples are also known as the first sample.

4.3.2. Fit sample:

After approving the proto sample, the fit sample should be made by the following buyer
provided a measurement sheet. It can be made by using similar fabric, nearer GSM, and
any color. In Fit sample, stitching and measurement must be 100% accurate. Here
fabrication and color can be changed but no compromise on stitching and measurement.
2-3 garments are used in the fit sample where 1pc is kept by the manufacturer and the rest
of those are sent to the buyer.

4.3.3. Size set sample:

After approving the fit sample, based on the patterns of the approved sample, all the other
sizes samples should be graded here and make patterns for different sizes. After that,
make 2-3pcs sample for each size of that order. The manufacturer keeps a 1pc sample for

21
himself and sends 1pc or 2pc samples to the buyer for cutting approval. Here, it should be
noted that, without the size set sample approval, cutting should not be started.
4.3.4. Counter sample:

This type of sample is based on the comments received from the buyer. For this sample,
2-3pcs clothing is required.

4.3.5. Salesman sample (SMS):

Salesman sample is used by the sales team of buyers to enhance the sales of any garment.
Buyer sends the sample by a salesman in the market to receive market feedback from the
customers. It is done approximately 200-500pcs depending on the customers and season.
The main objects of the SMS sample are to check the market, feedback, Buyer‟s design,
etc.

4.3.6. Pre-production sample (PPS):

P.P sample should be made in the actual production line by maintaining all actual of an
order specification. It is the main stage of a garments order where any sample may be
approved or rejected. If the sample will approve then can go for the rest of the process of
that order. But if rejected then there will be the revision of previous processes. PPC
(Planning production and control) department is also involved in this stage. Once the PPC
department is involved then there‟s no way for the acceptance of any style change. It is a
very critical stage than other‟s stage. Extra care must be needed here to confirm an order
correctly.

4.3.7. Top of production sample (TOP):

During running order in the production line, a few samples are sent to the buyer or buyers
Q, C as a TOP sample. The TOP sample has great importance in achieving certification
of the whole order. If the TOP sample failed to approve its required quality then the
whole order will be resumed.

22
4.3.8. GPT sample:

GPT sample refers to the production sample that is given for "Garment Performance
Test". These samples are used for a series of tests that a brand would like to evaluate
before running the styles for production. The tests can include seam strength, seam
slippage, colorfastness, wash fastness, among others.

4.3.9. Shipment sample:

A shipment sample is needed after completing the final inspection when goods are ready
for shipment. It is a sample that reflects what buyers will receive down to Q.C, folding,
tagging, bagging, labeling and final packaging included.

4.3.10. Press samples:

Press samples are exact replicas of the final sellable product, usually in a model's sample
size. They‟re used for photographing promotional material like collection campaigns for
advertising, look books, e-commerce and can be loaned to magazines for editorial photo
shoots.
4.3.11. Development sample:
The development samples are those sample which made until the final factory gets bulk
production approval. The proto, fit and size set samples are considered as development
sample.
4.4 Production Layout with machine name & needle name & size:

4.4.1 T shirt (woman)

Line marking > Ticken (front + back rise, SNLS (Needle name & size: DB-09) > Again
ticken (front + back rise, SNLS, (Needle name & size: DB-09) > label attach (4TOL,
(Needle name & size: DC-09) > Shoulder join (4TOL, (Needle name & size: DC-09) >
Sleeve join (4TOL, (Needle name & size: DC-09) > Neck Side seam (4TOL, (Needle
name & size: DC-09) > Neck join with body part (4TOL, (Needle name & size: DC-09) >
Neck tape label top seam (SNLS, (Needle name & size: DB-09) > Side seam join (4TOL,
(Needle name & size: DC-09) > Sleeve and Body hem (Flat lock, (Needle name & size:
UY-09) > Extra thread cutting > total body check.

23
4.4.2 Short Pant

Front rise back rise join (4TOL, (Needle name & size: DC-09) > Pocket inner part join
with front back rise part (SNLS, (Needle name & size: DB-09) > Pocket 1/16 top seam
(SNLS, (Needle name & size: DB-09) > Top ¼ top stitch packet (SNLS, (Needle name &
size: DB-09) > Pocket tuck in Front rise & back rise (SNLS, (Needle name & size: DB-
09) > Body rise with pocket attach (SNLS, (Needle name & size: DB-09) > Pocket over
lock (4TOL, (Needle name & size: DC-09) > Pocket side tuck (SNLS, (Needle name &
size: DB-09) > Body side seam (4TOL, (Needle name & size: DC-09) >Back rise front
rise ¼ top seam (Flat lock, (Needle name & size: UY-09) > Body inseam join (4TOL,
(Needle name & size: DC-09) > belt tuck (SNLS, (Needle name & size: DB-09) > Metal
Eyelet join (metal eyelet 01, Plastic washer 02, Ring 01, Eyelet M/C) > Elastic sewing +
Cutting + Marking (SNLS, (Needle name & size: DB-09) > Belt + Elastic tuck stich
(SNLS, (Needle name & size: DB-09)> Waist belt make (Flat lock, (Needle name & size:
UY-09) > waist belt side sewing(4TOL, (Needle name & size: DC-09) > Waist belt join
with body part ( 4TOL, (Needle name & size: DC-09) > Label join(4TOL, (Needle name
& size: DC-09) > Bottom hem join (Flat lock, (Needle name & size: UY-09) > Pocket in
seam bartec > Drawsting attach > Extra thread cutting > Total body cutting.

24
 CHAPTER: 5
PRODUCTION

5.1 Production

Production is a process of transforming (converting) inputs (raw-materials) into outputs

(finished goods). So, production means the creation of goods and services. It is done to
satisfy human wants. Thus, production is a process of transformation.

5.2 Main Products

T-shirt, Polo shirt, all kinds of pants, shorts, Hoody, Sweatshirt, Jacket.

5.3 Product Development

This department plays an important role in a garment industry. When buyer places an
order, a design sheet is provided, where the entire design is illustrated elaborately. The
product development process encompasses all steps needed to take a product from
concept to market availability. This includes identifying a market need, researching the
competitive landscape, conceptualizing a solution, developing a product roadmap,
building a minimum viable product, etc.

 Review the technical information and planning for the schedule of delivery date
after received new style
 Analyze and arrange materials required for new styles. A sequence can be drawn
here:
 In house all required materials within planned time frame.
 Embellishment development and approval from within the planned time frame
 Co- ordinate with sample department
 Presentation of seasonal collection to buyer

Fig 5.3: Production Department

25
5.4 Production process

After settlement of deal with the buyer, production of the ordered RMG starts at factory
level. To get a finished product, different operational stages are being undertaken in the
factory. These stages are shown below in the flow chart form:

PATTERN MAKING

MARKER MAKING

LAY OUT PLANNING

FABRIC SPREADING

CUTTING

SORTING & BUNDLING

SEWING

26
 FINISHING

FINAL PRESSING

FINISHING

FINAL INSPECTION

POLY/CARTONING

SHIPMENT

27
 CHAPTER: 6
TESTING
6.1 Testing Method

When an article is produced, it has to be suitable for its end-uses - it must conform to a
set of specifications that have been laid down for it. Quality in textile products can thus
be defined as the extent to which an article conforms to its specifications. Textile method
is a scientific test technique and method to evaluate whether the quality of textiles meets
the requirements of the specified standards. Based on the use and conditions of textiles,
influence on the product by the composition, structure, and properties of textiles, and
determine the use value of textiles. When using textile products, everyone must hope that
they have a good touch, good appearance, durability and should not contain harmful
substances

6.2 Purpose and Significance of Textile Method:

 To check the quality and suitability of raw material
 To monitor the production (process control)
 To assess the quality of the final product
 To investigate the faulty materials
 To set standards or benchmarks
 For research and development purpose
 For new product development
6.3 Objectives of Textile Method:

The objectives of Textile Testing are as follows –

 In case of research, the results of testing will help the scientist to decide which
route should be followed.
 It helps to select the proper raw materials. Raw material is a relative term. As for
example, fiber is the raw material of spinner, yarn is the raw material of weaver
etc.
 Textile Testing helps to control the different processes. Such as Spinning,

28
 Weaving, Dyeing, Finishing etc. End breakage is controlled by controlling weight
per lap length, sliver length and roving length. Weaving process is controlled by
controlling the excessive breakage of warp and weft yarn. Dyeing process is
controlled by M : L, temperature and pressure.
 In case of product control, it helps to ensure the fulfillment of the desired quality
of the end product. Such as the end product of spinning is yarn.
 In case of process development, it helps to improve the quality of end product by
avoiding unnecessary waste of time and money.
 In case of product development, it helps in continual search for new knowledge
and to develop new products.

6.4 Factors Affecting Test Result

 Atmospheric conditions
 Test methods
 Testing instruments
 Technician‟s efficiency etc.
6.5 Objects of Fabrics Testing:

The reasons for carrying out tests on fabrics are numerous and some common ones are
pointed out below:

 To check that the fabric conforms to fabric specification.

 To note the effect of changes in structural details.
 To note the effect of physical and chemical treatment, exposure to weather or
laundering or washing, etc.
 To obtain some identification of probable performance in use.
 To investigate the causes of failure and customers complain.
 To help in designing a fabric for a specific purpose.
 To study the interaction of fiber, yarn, and fabric properties
 It is done to monitor the production

29
  It is done to assess the quality of the final product
 It is done to investigate the faulty materials
 To set standards or benchmarks it is done
 For research and development purposes textile testing is done.
 For new product development need textile testing.
 It is done for quality control
 It is done for process control.
1. Research and Development

Textile products are evaluated during the development process. This helps textiles
scientists determine how to proceed at each stage of product development. This category
also includes testing in order to study theories of fabric or fabric or fiber behavior.

2. Quality Control

Textile products are tested at various stages of production to assure quality processing
and products. Manufacturers may use quality-control testing as a marketing tool, in that
trade names imply to the consumer that certain levels of quality are assumed to be
standard for products produced by the manufacturer.

3. Comparative Testing

Comparative testing compares two or more products being considered by a company or

government agency. In selecting between competitive products, a fabric manufacturer
also may test fibers or yarns from different suppliers.

4. Analyzing Product Failure

Testing is done in this case to pinpoint defects in processing or design. Results from this
type of test can be used to improve products, and are also used to determine liability in
litigation.

5. Selection of Raw Materials

30
One attribute common to most textile raw materials is their variation in quality. Fibers
vary in length, color, and fineness; yarns vary in count, strength, and twist; fabrics vary in
threads per inch, freedom from faults, and shrinkage. Unsuitable material can be rejected
or perhaps put to standards by which raw materials are accepted or rejected must be
realistic, otherwise much will be rejected which in fact is good enough, or else a large
amount of inferior material will find its way into the flow of production and cause
trouble.

6.6 Importance of Testing Equipment in Apparel or Garment Business:

In textile production, testing can be said to be a process through which the properties of
different kinds of substance are ascertained and assessed by using different types of
textile testing equipment. Testing is an important segment of the textile industry that
helps to detect defaults inherent in machines or textile materials in other to improve
quality and enhance the standard. Besides, textile testing needs to ensure compliance with
changing governmental safety regulations and to meet increasing consumer demand for
high-quality textiles and apparel. However, testing in textile is of two major types which
are Routine Process Testing and Quality Record Testing.

Clearly, there are exceptions where performance is an over-riding consideration, as in

protective clothing, even if only for leisure pursuit. That does not of course mean that
performance is unimportant to them.

Premature breakdown, whether of fabric, seam, or simply a button falling off, may
produce a customer complaint, and although the customer may not actually return the
garment to the retailer, it may well result in an association in their mind of poor
performance, which may influence their decision on another purchase. In other to
forestall this loss of confidence in the quality of textile materials manufactured by a
company, testing however becomes a matter of inevitability.

31
 CHAPTER: 7
FABRIC SPREADING &CUTTING
7.1 Fabric Spreading

Spreading is the process of superimposing lengths of fabrics on a spreading table or

cutting table. Spread or lay up: It is the total amount of fabric prepared for a single
marker. A spread may consist of a single ply or multiple plies. Fabric spreading is one of
the most important processes in the readymade garments sector, by which fabric plies are
spread to get the required length and width as per marker dimension. If fabric spreading
is perfect then fabric wastage will be decreased, which ultimately helps to achieve higher
profit from a garment export order. As its importance in the garments manufacturing
sector, today I will present here some key purposes or objects of fabric spreading. Fabric
spreading means the smooth laying out of the fabric in superimposed layers of definite
length. It is a preparatory operation for cutting and consists of fabric lying. Marker paper
is laid on top of the fabric layers. It should be noted here that, during spreading, the
number of the plies should be not more than three hundred, where the number of layers
depends on the height of the fabrics and thickness of the fabrics.

7.2 Purpose of Fabric Spreading

 It helps to place the number of plies of fabric to the length of the marker.
 It helps to cut the fabrics in bulk quantity at the same time.
 It helps in saving fabric cutting time for bulk garments production.
 During cutting the fabric, it helps to use multi clothing markers at the same time.
 It helps in cutting many fabric plies at the same time.
 It helps to make every fabric ply plain and flat.

Fig 7.2.1 Cutting room Fig 7.2 .2Cutting room

32
7.3 Factors of Fabric Spreading:

 Alignment of the fabric plies: Fabric plies should be aligned according to the
marker length and marker width.
 Correct ply tension: To prepare the lay of the fabric, during fabric spreading its
base condition to maintain the correct ply tension.
 Fabric must be flat: During fabric spreading it should be carefully noticed that
there is no and fold or crinkle in the fabric.
 Elimination of fabric fault: The fold of fabric must be indicated during spreading
and necessary steps should be taken to remove these faults. It is the duty of the
operator.
 Correct ply direction: During fabric spreading it is very important to detect what
type of fabric it is and spread the fabric with correct ply direction.
 Elimination of static electricity: In fabric spreading static charge may produce due
to friction specially the fabric containing the man-made fiber like polyester, nylon
etc.
 To avoid the fashion between fabric layer: In case of cutting of fabric lay by
cutting knife, friction may be produced between lay and cutting knife which
contains thermo plastic fibers may fused due to heat generation. To avoid these
problem previous steps should be taken.
 Matching check and stripe: During fabric spreading it should be carefully noticed
that checked and stripe should be matched otherwise garments may be fault.
 Easy separation of the cut lay into bundles: Identification marks are used in plies
due to color or shade variation.
7.4 Some Basic Requirements of Fabric Spreading

 Alignment of plies: - During spreading, each ply must be parallel to other plies at
one side of the fabrics.
 Correct Ply Tension: Uniform tension to be maintained during spreading for all
plies.
 Fabric must be flat: Fabric must be spread in flat form, i.e. fabric must be fold

33
 free or crinkle Free State.
 Each ply must be covered the area of marker.
 Fabric must be spread at one side of the spreading or cutting table, to avoid
wrong.
7.5 Things to Remember While Fabric Spreading

 Use Paper for the first ply in case the table surface is rough or when fine fabrics
are being spread.
 Identify the defects noticed in the fabric by means of stickers
 Use lubricated paper for separating layers
 To prevent scorching in the natural fibers (coarse fabrics)
 To prevent fusing in the synthetic fabrics
 Ensure that decided number of ply count and height of the spread is achieved.
7.6 Method of Spreading

 Mount the bolt on the machine

 Pull the fabric to far end position
 Position the fabric at the far end (with our without weight or pins)
 Align the ply (width on one side)
 Cut the ply after each lay
 Repeat this process from b-e until the entire bolt is spread.
 Check ply count
 Repeat a and then b to g till the decided number of ply are spread
 Mark the remnants of the bolts with length in meters and bolt number and
stack separately at the given place.
7.7 Method of Splicing

a. When the ends of the patterns in a marker are joint on both sides by straight line then
use the single line splicing. Make sure that overlapping at this point should be about 2”.

b. When the required height of lay is achieved, place the marker on the spread and secure
it by means of brass pins on each pattern section.

34
7.8 Work flow of cutting section

 Lay Start/ Spreading

 Cutting
 Measurement check
 Numbering
 Ready for sewing
 Bundling
 Sorting Big parts inspecting
7.9 Defects of cutting section

 Measurement not ok
 Marker ratio problem
 Shade variation in body parts
 Needle drop in fabric
 Numbering mistake
 Crease mark for machinery problem
 GSM, Shrinkage problem
 Spot, dirt, oil mark on fabric
 Over lay
 Fabric edge is not properly cutting
 Size variation
 Pattern Size Mistake.
 Error Graphics Mark.
 Problem Occurs in Fabric Lay.
 Defect of Cutter Machine.
 Bundle Mistake.
 Defect Fabric.
 Uneven Cutting.
 Fabric Shade Problem.
 Marker Ratio Problem.

35
 CHAPTER: 8

QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM

8.1 Quality Assurance System

Quality assurance and quality control is a complex area of the apparel industry. First off,
quality assurance is not quality control, but quality control is an aspect of quality
assurance. Quality assurance builds quality into each step of the manufacturing process
including designing, production, and beyond. Quality control is generally understood as
assessing for quality after products have already been manufactured and sorted into
acceptable and unacceptable categories. Apparel garments, accessories, and other textile
products are assessed for quality in the preproduction phase, during production, and with
a final inspection after the product has been completer the grey inspection m/c visually in
a pre-set speed against light. Collar & cuff are inspected visually under light box, any
major & minor faulty collar/cuff like having wrong ply, hole, needle lines, slubs, wrong
design, first line problem etc. properly counted and recorded..

8.2 Quality Assurance Procedure

Based on the order of grey inspection, the inspector consecutively numbers each roll
ensuring that all rolls having the woven card with complete details of the roll.

After manufacture of fabric rolls of 8 to 25 kg, m/c operators cut them from the cloth or
batch roller and they are carried to inspection section by the helpers.

Almost four inspection workers are for every shift to check the fabric rolls. For any kind
of fault, they are checked thoroughly. Skilled inspectors find them and indicate them by
the scissors in some cases.

36
 Fig 8.1 AQL Chart

Thick, Thin, Dirt, Oil Spot, Contamination

Defect Up to 3‟‟ in length: 1 Point

Defect Up to 6‟‟ in length: 2“

Defect Up to 9‟‟ in length: 3“

Defect Up to 9‟‟ in length: 4“

Hole & Opening : 4“

QUALITY Pts / per 100 square yard =

Quality inspectors seal on the fabric rolls as „CHECK-1‟, „OK‟ & „REJECT‟
according to quality.

8.3 Various type of defect

1-Knot 2-Hole
3-Slub 4-Endout
5-Miss yarn 6-Thick yarn
7-Dyeing problem 8-Coating problem etc.
Fig 8.2 Various type of defect

37
8.4 Quality Standard

Here is the quality standard:

 Fabric width
 Fabric length
 Slub
 Fabric weight
 Hole
 Needle / Sinker line
 Broken needle /2‟‟
 Thick /thin yarn
 Barre/ Stripe
 Dirt

38
 CHAPTER: 9
PATTERN MAKING & CAD DEPARTMENT
9.1 Pattern making

Pattern making involves the design and creation of templates from which clothing and
craft items can be sewn. Patterns are made of pieces of paper shapes that are traced onto
the fabric to be cut, with each individual pattern piece serving as a form for an individual
part of the garment or item to be sewn. Pattern making can be done at home by more
experienced sewers, or pre-made patterns can be purchased for home sewing projects.
Pattern making involves the design and creation of templates from which clothing and
craft items can be sewn. Patterns are made of pieces of paper shapes that are traced onto
the fabric to be cut, with each individual pattern piece serving as a form for an individual
part of the garment or item to be sewn. Then allowance is added and patterns are graded.

Pattern making process:

 Manually
 By Computer

Fig:9.1 CAD room Fig:9.1.1 Pattern Machine

39
9.2 CAD Section work flow

Receiving of pattern parts

Taking the image of the pattern in CPU by the digitizer

Modernizing of all pattern parts by the software

Aligning all size pattern parts in the marker by the software

Completing the marker

Taking approval from CAM section

Bringing out the marker through the plotter.

9.3 CAD

CAD is the contraction which stands for Computer-Aided Design. This term means
different things to different people involved in designing, manufacturing, and mechanical
engineering. CAD or Computer-Aided Design has brought a revolution in the Textile
industry, especially in the apparel industry. The time consuming and cumbersome
process of textile designing has been made easier by CAD. Now thoughtful and
innovative designs are available to textile designers and textile manufacturers at the click
of a mouse. The working flow chart of CAD section in apparel industry is as follows:

40
9.4 The procedure of CAD Section:

 In the CAD section at first, the pattern put on the digitizer to take a clear image of
the pattern part inside the CPU.
 After making all required size patterns using the “Diamino” software pattern parts
are aligned in the mini marker. Then it is sent to CPU of CAM section for
approval and checking the length & width of marker and pattern parts alignment.
 After getting approval from the CAM section the printer is used to print out the
whole real marker then this marker, as well as a mini marker, are provided to the
CAM section for cutting the fabric.

The computers help workers in the textile industry in tasks such as repeating a design or
determine how to cut or make a fabric. Textile designers and manufacturers can use CAD
programs to do repetitive or time-consuming processes. By simplifying the production
process and decreasing the required labor hours, CAD design programs help lower
production costs.

9.5 Types of marker

 General marker.
 Group marker.
 Way marker.
 Block marker.

41
 CHAPTER: 10

MACHINE DESCRIPTION & MAINTENANCE

10.1 Machine Maintenance

The machine is an important resource that is constantly used for adding value to a
product. So it is necessary to keep in the best operating condition. Otherwise, there will
be excessive downtime and also interruption of production if it used in the mass
production line. Poor working of machinery and equipment will lead to quality-related
problems, its necessary to maintain the machine in good operating conditions with
economical cost. The machine maintenance system is the key factor for Garments
Manufacturing. The factory‟s work efficiency depends on machine fitness too.

Maintenance is the action to retain or to fix or to restore an item in a state in which it can
perform its required function by the combination of all technical administrative,
managerial and supervision actions. In general words, maintenance is the process by
which equipment is looked after in such a way so that it runs trouble-free. Service and
increased machine life can be ensured and specific product quality required by the
customer is sustained

10.2 Types of Maintenance

Generally, there are two types of maintenance system found in apparel industry:

 Breakdown Maintenance
 Preventive Maintenance/Routine maintenance
Breakdown Maintenance

Breakdown Maintenance is the repair which generally done after equipment has attained
down state. Online mechanics set for breakdown maintenance sewing line for immediate
support or quick information system can be set to call mechanic, can set traffic lighting
system in every sewing line. Breakdown time should be recorded and track to see
mechanic performance. Machine breakdown time consider as loss time in garments

42
manufacturing. These are unpredictable or reactive type of maintenance and are more
difficult to schedule than the above categories.

Preventive maintenance/Routine maintenance

Preventive maintenance is periodical inspection (daily, weekly, monthly basis cleaning,

inspection, oiling and re-tightening) and service activities what are aimed to detected
potential failures and perform minor adjustments and repairs which will present major
operating problems in future. Sewing maintenance team does preventive maintenance as
per their maintenance schedule or calendar. It‟s the preventive maintenance to retain the
healthy condition of equipment and prevent major breakdowns of failure by deterioration
of facilities. It ranges from such simple tasks as cleaning, inspection, equipment
condition diagnosis checking, changing oil, water, air, alignment, re-tightening etc.
Routine maintenance consists of periodically inspecting, servicing, lubricating and
cleaning equipment and replacing parts to prevent sudden failure and process problems to
ensure continuing working condition.

10.3 Sewing machine maintenance & safety policy practice

Best & regular maintenance of plants machinery increase not only machine life but also
with quality garments stitching, less consumption of spare parts & reduce tendency of
machine problem results increase total productivity. In the view of the above the
machinery maintenance policy & procedure are being given below.

1. Daily maintenance: while sewing floor is running if any machine create problem,
initially floor mechanics try to fix that machine within the line. If it is not possible
in a short time, machine will be shifted to the maintenance room replacing by
another machine & necessary measure will be taken to fix that Machine. The daily
records of maintenance works has been kept in a format.
2. Monthly maintenance: It is a preventive maintenance to reduce machinery
problem & increase machine life, execute by predetermine schedule fixed on the
starting of the year by regular basis. This maintenance program covers total
servicing of the all machine, oil change, oil filter change, or any defective parts
change. Records of monthly maintenance works have been kept in a format.

43
10.4 Daily Sewing Machine Check Points

1. Tension spring

2. Take up spring

3. Bobbin case spring

4. Thread wiper

5. Oil level/ oil leak

6. Threading

7. Needle plate/ fee dog

8. Machine washer

9. Laser light

10. Needle plate/ fee do

10.5 Monthly Sewing machine maintenance/servicing checklist

1. Air device

2. Trimmer device

3. Super tension post take up spring

4. Needle bar, bush and clam condition

5. Needle plate condition

6. Feed dog condition

7. Winder condition

8. Rotary hook or loopers

9. Oil level/ oil filter condition

44
10. Machine table in good condition

11. Cleaning and blowing

12. The lubricant in equipment (oil and grease cut)

13. Main shaft, connecting rod, bearing condition

14. Machine head has to be balanced with base plate

15. Knife slide

16. Power on/ off switch

10.6 Machine Description

Type of Machine Sewing

Capacity

General Sewing Machine

Single Needle

Double Needle

Over lock

Kansai

Bar Tack

Button Stitch

Button Hole

Eyelet Button Hole

Bottom Hem

45
Flat Lock

Snap Button

Blind Stitch

Feed of the Arm

Cutter m\c

Heat Cutter

Fusing m\c 80,000 pieces per

day
Over lock Elastic Attaching
m\c

Arm Hole Sewing m\c

Zigzag

Elastic Attaching

Pattern Sewing

46
10.7 Different types of machines used in garment production

Waist Band m/c Feed of the Arm m/c

3 Thread Over lock m/c

Bartack m/c

Button Attach m/c Rivet m/c

47
 Eye hole m/c Chain Stitch m/c

Blind Stitch Machine Hook & Bar Attaching Machine

Fig 10.1 7 Different types of machine

48
 CHAPTER: 11
STORE & INVENTORY SYSTEM
11.1 Store Section

The store of a 100% export-oriented garments industry is generally considered as a

merged granary. Therefore, store room organization is very important. The store people
uphold a stock ledger, which have the next format. The store room organization of
accessories is also done in the same way. If any parts (needle, rotary hook, lights etc.) are
injured, then the hurt part is deposited in the store room and new parts are delivered.

11.2 Accessories & Trims Are Parts of Finished Garment. A Lot of Accessories & Trims
Are Used.

Some Trims & Accessories Are:

Buttons Main label

Threads Security label

Fabrics Care label

Rib Interlining

Elastic tape Zippers

11.3 Grey Fabrics Store

All the grey fabrics are stored in the fabric store, near the batch section. Different types of
fabrics arc listed in the sheet according to the fabric types, quantity & consumer‟s
requirements. Fabrics GSM, shrinkage, diameter other properties are also taken into
consideration. The batches are prepared by taking the required fabrics from the grey
store. At present the grey fabrics store of Delicate Garments ltd. - Delicate Group
containing the following types of Fabrics –

49
  Single jerseys
 1 x 1 Rib
 2x 2 Rib
 2x 1 Rib
 Fleece
 Terry
 Pique
11.4 Spares

In Delicate Garments ltd. - Delicate Group required number of spares of different

machines are stored in the store room. All the shares are listed in a sheet which is
controlled by the mechanical & maintenance personnel. Spares are arranged in the store
room according to their size, quantity & requirements. There are shelves in the store
room to keep the small spare parts.

Fig 11.4: Store room

50
 CHAPTER: 12
COMPLIANCE
12.1 Definition of Compliance

ISO (International Organization for Standardization) is a worldwide federation of

national standards bodies. ISO is a nongovernmental organization that comprises
standards bodies from more than 160 countries, with one standards body representing
each member country. For development of Garments sector, Bangladesh needs to
emphasize on the factory working environment, social issues, labor relations and
compliances with codes of conduct. In Standard group they follow the rules of WRAP.

12.2 Steps for Implementing ISO

Fig 12.1 Steps for Implementing ISO

51
12.3 Work Procedure of ISO

Each member body who has an interest in the work of a committee is entitled to be a
member of that committee. Standards are reached by consensus with each member
organization representing the interests of the vendors, manufacturers, consumers,
professionals, and government of its country.

Each standard goes through a six-stage process before being published as an ISO
standard. The first stage is the proposal stage in which a need for a standard is determined
and members are identified who are willing to work on it. The standards then enter the
preparatory stage where a working draft of the standard is developed. When the working
draft is completed, it enters the committee stage and is sent out for comments until a
consensus is reached. The output of this stage is the Draft International Standard (DIS).
The DIS then enters the enquiry stage where it is circulated among all member bodies
and then voted upon. If a DIS does not receive 75% of the vote, it returns to lower stages
and work on it continues. If it passes the enquiry stage, it becomes a Final Draft
International Standard and enters the approval stage. During this stage it will again
circulate through all member bodies for a final vote and again it must pass this stage with
75% of the vote. If the standard passes this stage, it enters the publication stage and is
sent to the ISO Central Secretariat for publication.

12.4 Responsibilities & Duties

 To floor visit at least thrice a day.

 To ensure workers fire safety, fire prevention, fire equipment, health & safety &
Comfortable environment at work place.
 To aware the workers about personal protective equipment.
 To receive grievance, complain, demand & suggestion from the workers & after
receiving the issue discuss with related persons & local management immediately.
 Try to find out emotional problem of an employee. The problem may be work
related or personal or family which affects his/her work performance.
 To provided supportive counseling the sick worker for medicinal support on the
worker‟s requests, complain or situational demand.

52
  Try to make aware the existing workers about by company provided all facilities
&
 To perform when social compliance audit.
 To follow up aisle mark free, fire extinguisher no blocked, emergency exit free,
fire equipment free, and stair free from carton in the floor.
 To check all production related register if any date mentioned of holiday or not.
 To conduct orientation program for newly appointed worker.
 Try to motivate & make them conversant with the company objective, rules &
regulations, buyer code of conduct & local laws.
 To briefing the employees about all facilities of company, mandatory safety
instruction including all “do‟s & Don‟ts”.
 To make aware the employees about leave procedure, maternity benefits, working
hour & over time system according to local laws.
 To make aware the employees about personal health & hygiene, HIV/ AIDS/STD.
 To conduct awareness programs the pregnant workers about safe motherhood.
 To ensure that no employee each maltreated mentally or physically abused & they
should be treated with respect & dignity.
12.5 Work Procedure of WRAP (Worldwide Reference of Apparel
Manufacturing):

RAP encourages all commercial and civil society organizations that are qualified to
perform professional and objective evaluations of manufacturing facilities to apply for
accreditation. These organizations are referred to as “monitors” in the following
discussion. Their principals, employees, consultants, et al. who will be directly involved
in WRAP monitoring activities are called “designated personnel.

Monitors and their designated personnel cannot own any financial interest (including but
not limited to equity, debt, or assets) nor hold legal, titular, membership, employment or
representational interests or relationships in either the companies or the facilities that
participate in WRAP‟s Certification Programs.

53
Monitors and their designated personnel cannot be directly or indirectly related in a legal
or familial capacity to the facilities and companies that participate in a WRAP
Certification Program.

1. Monitors and their designated personnel are prohibited from receiving, at any time, any
compensation or promise thereof beyond the reasonable inspection fee negotiated with a
factory (which must be reported to WRAP: see below). This does not preclude the
monitor from receiving additional fees for additional legitimate inspections.

2. The monitor must provide WRAP with all relevant materials that support the
qualification requirements for accreditation, including but not limited to:

Description of the organization and its juridical status in the country or countries in
question, and in the country of its headquarters.

Relevant experience and work history of the enterprise, including name and description
of some of its current clientele.

Three professional references for services performed that can be independently verified
by WRAP.

Names and qualifications of all designated personnel (see above) including a one-page
Curriculum Vitae for each.

Affidavit signed by the chief executive officer attesting to the accuracy of all information
provided for accreditation, and to the monitor‟s compliance with the above requirements
(including “Independence” and “Skills”).

The monitor transfers the appropriate fee to WRAP. For the fee and duration of
accreditation.

3. For each WRAP Certification Program, a list of all countries for which it seeks
accreditation.

54
4. All designated personnel (see above) must complete a WRAP authorized Monitor
Training Course. (WRAP may grant Provisional Accreditation until such time as a course
becomes available to a given monitor.)

5. Based on the monitor‟s performance in the course and on its compliance with the
above requirements, WRAP decides whether or not to grant accreditation.

12.6 Rules of Warp (Worldwide Reference of Apparel Manufacturing)

1. Delicate Garments ltd. - Delicate Group maintains WRAP method and

regulates their work plan according to it.

2. Compliance with laws and work interstellar regulation.

3. Prohibition of forced labor.

4. Prohibition of child labor.

5. Prohibition of harassment or abuse.

6. Compensation and benefit.

7. Hours of work.

8. Prohibition of discrimination.

9. Health and safety.

10. Freedom of association and collective bargaining.

11. Environment.

12. Customer Compliance

13. Security.

55
12.7 Using Equipment

Fire extinguisher per floor 10-12

Sand full bucket per floor 05

Lock cutter per floor 01

Hook per floor 01

Stretcher per floor 01

Fire alarm per floor [All over factory]

Ring per floor 01

Automatic bell per floor 01

56
 CHAPTER: 13

INTERNSHIP RESPONSIBILITY

13.1 Internship Responsibility

As an intern in the Merchandising Department, I worked in an ongoing project titled

Merchandising Development. I worked in a team of 12 Merchandiser

13.2 My Job Consisted of The Following

1. Communicating with buyers by mail (mostly), WeChat, Skype for new queries
as well as updates

2. Meeting with vendors and explaining new development requirement to supplier

team

3. Planning for new season sampling and production orders

4. Collecting of garment samples, trims and different types of swatches from the
suppliers

5. Submission of samples to buyer through courier

6. Follow up with supplier for samples

7. Follow up with buyers for approvals and feedback

8. Updating latest comments on particular styles or order to vendor representative

9. Update the buyers with the order status at all stages

11. Execution of running orders (production)

12. Sourcing of materials for new development

13. Preparation of material requirement

14. Handle quality issues for sampling as well as production

57
 RECOMMENDATION & CONCLUSION

Recommendation

DELICATE GARMENTS LTD. - DELICATE GROUP LTD. is one of the largest textile
group in Bangladesh. It has outstanding reputation in the global market for excellence. It
is a composite factory where they have all the sectors of woven item like spinning,
woventing, dyeing, printing, embroidery, accessories, and garments production. So, this
is huge in case of production and maintenance both.

However, this huge organization is not facing profit due to many of reasons what I have
observed from the internship period-

 Supply chain or procurement department is not very strong in this company which
causes that the merchandisers procure all the raw materials of garments that‟s why
they feel more pressure to complete shipment and some time also over the
shipment date then company should pay the extra money for air shipment. So
when supply chain department procure all the raw materials then merchandiser
can easily shipment the goods within lead time.
 Planning department of operation should be strong and the time management
should be followed. Here, productivity is low due to less command of the
authority towards the production. It should be increased for the higher
productivity.
 Quality assurance system should be modernized because quality is the top priority
of all international buyers.
 Working environment should be increased
 Pay scale is very poor which is needed to be increased because company will lose
potential employees due to their policy.
 Distribution of power should be well managed and transparency among the
workers and the management should be followed.

58
Conclusion:

Bangladesh is a developing nation. RMG sector earns the prime share of our foreign
currency. Developing of this sector will definitely bring good fortune for our country. We
being the graduates of Textile Engineering must give our sincere effort to the future
advancement of RMG and related sector. More over from the 1 January 2005, we will
enter into the quota free world where quality, less lead-time and low price will be the key
to success. Standard Group being one of the leading manufacturing of RMG gave us the
opportunity to under go two months of Industrial training there which was extremely
beneficial for us. Because no knowledge specially one like Textile Engineering cannot be
fulfilled without practical experience. It gives us the excellent opportunity to combine our
theoretical knowledge with the practical knowledge. Use of modern equipment‟s in
manufacturing looking after the welfare of the workers, good management is the key to
success of a company which are well maintained in Delicate Garments ltd. - Delicate
Group. we sincerely hope that this experience will give us the confidence required to
apply our skill to boast this sector.

59