Introduction To Garment Manufacturing (TE-2114)

Introduction to Garment Manufacturing (TE-2114)
LABORATORY MANUAL
Introduction to
Garment Manufacturing
(TE-2114)
Prepared By:
Dr. Aqsa Imran
Department of Textile Engineering (GMD)
National Textile University
Faisalabad – Pakistan
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Overall Aims & Objectives of the Course:
Aim and Objectives of the course:
This course is designed to give in-breath knowledge of Garment manufacturing

techniques/processes and includes the Study of Process Machinery, Operations, Stitches,
Seams, and threads, cutting, sewing, pressing technology, finishing and packing sections.
Objectives
 To promote an understanding of garment manufacturing in relation to the needs of
fashion, demands of end users, and the business-to-business textile apparel products.
 To provide hands-on experience using a set of complex technologies found in industry
today to build prototypical solutions to solve current needs.
 To provide experience in responding to market opportunities with creative and
innovative products that integrate a set of academic disciplines such as textile materials,
design fundamentals, business fundamentals, sourcing, data mining of market
information, and the new developments in material and engineering.
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LABORATORY SCHEDULE
Experiment
Title of Experiment
No.
1. Study of parts and functioning of fabric cutting machine (Straight knife cutter).
Study of parts and functioning of a lock stitch sewing machine. Labeling parts
2.
of lock stitch sewing machine
3. Stitching Exercise –I on paper practice sheet-I using lock stitch machine.
4. Stitching Exercise –II on paper practice sheet-II using lock stitch machine.
5. Stitching Exercise –III on paper practice sheet-II1 using lock stitch machine.
a. Study of the bobbin winding and needle threading of a lock stitch
6. sewing machine.
b. Drawing the line diagram of needle thread passage.
7. Stitching Exercise-IV using a fabric swatch using lock stitch sewing machine.
Study of parts and the functioning of overlock machine. Threading of 3 thread,
8. overlock and 4 threads overlock sewing machine. Draw line diagram of needle
and loopers thread.
9. Stitching Exercise-V using a fabric swatch using overlock sewing machine.
Study of parts and the functioning of chain stitch machine. Threading of a chain
10.
stitch machine. Draw line diagram of needle and looper thread passage.
11. Stitching Exercise-VI using a fabric swatch on chain stitch machine
Stitching Exercise-VII – Application of different types of seams using different
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stitches.
a) Study of parts and functioning of button Attaching machine.
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b) Threading of button Attaching machine.
14. Open Ended labs
15. Open Ended labs
16. Revision and final viva
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Experiment No. 1
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EXPERIMENT NO. 1
Title
Study of parts and functioning of fabric cutting machine (Straight knife cutter).
Objectives
 To Learn about different parts straight knife cutting machine.
 To learn about working principles of straight knife cutting machine.
Theory
It is the most useful cutting instrument in apparel cutting. In apparel industry, more than 99%
cases this knife is used. This machine is called straight knife cutting machine because its
cutter is straight in shape. It is used for both woven & knit fabric. In this machine different
types of straight knife are used according to the different cutting objects. This machine
provides good efficiency. Machine employs abrading mechanism to cut the lay of fabric. The
paper is spread before spreading the lay because the paper helps to easily slide inside the ply
and provide less fabric distortion. The base plate guides the knife in relation to table surface
and elevates the spread off the cutting table. It has rollers for the forward movement of the
machine. Operator holds the handle and stabilize the plies ahead of knife to prevent bunching
of fabric. Two kinds of power are required to operate a straight knife:
 - Motor power drives the reciprocating blade
 - Operator drives the knife through lays
Once the power system is switched on the motor starts rotating causing the reciprocating
motion of the knife thus the movement of the blades cuts the fabric. Power required depends
on the height of spread and density of fabric to be cut. The cutting layer height is kept 2 "
less than the blade length. When the lay height is more, than straight knife machine is
preferred instead of notcher.
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Working principle
Two kinds of powers are required to operate a straight knife in forward and up/down
movement.
 Motor power drives the reciprocating blade.
 Operator power drives the knife through the lay.
Procedure
The following parts of the straight knife cutter and their function would be told to students in
this lab.
Figure 1. Straight knife cutter used in apparel industry.
Components
1. Base Plate.
2. Four Wheel
3. Pressure foot.
4. Motor Stand
5. Sharp Belt
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6. Blade/Knife
7. Sharping mechanism
8. Operating handle
9. Power cable carry handle
10. Motor
11. Oil Can
12. On/Off Switch
Observations and Calculations
The students would observe different parts of straight knife cutter, their functions and
importance of each in for proper cutting without defects.
Conclusions
Draw conclusions according to the experiment performed.
Requirement after the lab conduction ••
1. You are required to sketch the machine from the pictorial view, or the view suited to you
for representing the maximum components.
2. Label the sketch of components of straight knife cutter.
Questionnaire
1. Why straight knife cutting is mostly used in apparel industry?
2. What is the main advantage of straight knife cutter over other semi-automatic cutters?
3. What is the main disadvantage of cutter?
4. What are two main drives provided to the cutter for cutting action?
5. What are the main precautions taken during cutting by straight knife cutter?
6. What are main parts of the cutter?
7. Why are the rollers applied on underside of the cutter?
8. What is the relation of motor power cutting efficiency of machine?
9. If the motor is heavy what could be the merits or demerits?
10. What is the relation of blade movement with cutting efficiency?
11. If blade height is more what could be the benefit or disadvantage?
12. How the deflection of blade could be avoided?
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Experiment No. 2
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EXPERIMENT NO. 2
Title
Study of parts and functioning of a lock stitch sewing machine. Labeling parts of lock stitch
sewing machine.
Objectives
 To familiarize the students with the machine structure and various cover components
of the lockstitch sewing machine.
Theory
A stitch is how an interlacing thread move over and between the two or more superimposed
fabrics, joining them. There are various stitches that have been applied to make a full
garment. Sewing machine plays an important role for stitch application in the garments
manufacturing industry. There are a lot of sewing machines used in the ready-made garments
sector. In this lab all the parts of a sewing machine and the function of those parts would be
shown.
Working Principle
The basic working principle of sewing machines is very simple: two threads, one needle, up
and down, stitch formed. However, when we look at sewing machines, they seem much more
complicated! They are made of many pieces which synchronously work together to form
stitches in various forms and shapes.
Figure 1. Basic stitch formation.

Procedure
The following parts of the machine and their function would be told to students in this lab.
1. Spool pin
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Figure 2. Basic machine parts.

2. Bobbin winder spindle
3. Bobbin winder stopper
4. Stitch width dial
5. Pattern selector dial
6. Hand-wheel
7. Stitch length dial
8. Reverse stitch lever
9. Power switch
10. Bobbin winder thread guide
11. Thread tension dial
12. Thread take-up lever
13. Needle clamp screw
14. Presser’s foot
15. Bobbin cover
16. Bobbin cover release button
17. Feed dog
18. Needle
19. Needle plat
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The students would observe different parts of lockstitch machine, their functions and
importance of each in stitch formation.
Conclusions
2. Label the sketch of components of lock stitch machine.
Figure 3. Sketch of lock stitch machine components.

Questionnaire
13. What is the main function of thread take-up lever?
14. If machine’s setting is out what issues could be arisen?
15. If presser foot is not applying proper pressure what would be the effect on stitching?
16. How stitches per inches can be controlled?
17. What is the purpose of using reverse stitch lever?
18. If upper and lower thread tension is proper what could be the effect on stitching? How
the balanced or proper stitch could be applied?
19. If there is an issue of pressure on fabric, being a production manager how you can
control the pressure for better sewing?
20. What the function of thread guides is?
21. Write what are the main precautions that should be taken while starting or during
stitching?
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Experiment No. 3
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Textile Testing and Quality Control (TE-4131)
EXPERIMENT NO. 3
Title
Study of the bobbin winding and needle threading of a lock stitch sewing machine. Drawing
the line diagram of needle thread passage.
Objectives
 To learn how to thread in single needle lock stitch machine for sewing.
 To learn how to bobbin winding in single needle lock stitch machine for sewing.
Theory
Sewing machines may come from different manufacturers, they are all threaded basically the
same, with only a few very minor differences. Many times, when problems arise with the
machine not stitching properly, it is the way the machine has been threaded
Working Principle
complicated. They are made of many pieces which synchronously work together to form

Procedure of threading
 Order of threading in the sewing machine parts:
1. Spool pin
2. Thread Guide
3. Between metal disc of tension
4. Thread take up lever
5. Thread guide
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6. Lower thread guide

7. Threading the needle
Step 1: Put the spool of thread on the spool pin. Place it securely on the spool pin.
Step 2: Bring the thread around the upper thread guide. Traveling from the spool holder
across the top of the machine, look for a minimum of one thread guide. Insert the thread in
the thread guide.
Step 3: Now look for a tension mechanism.

 Bring the thread downward to the tension mechanism, slip the thread between the
metal disks of the tension mechanism and travel back upward with the thread.
 Pull the thread between the metal disc of the tension. Guiding the thread around the thread
guide and pulling the thread through the pre-tension spring that is part of the thread guide.
 The thread is now moving in a clockwise direction.
Step 4: Bring the thread up to the thread take up lever and raise it as it goes.
 Look for a take-up lever. This is the area on the front of the machine which will go up
and down when you turn the hand wheel. Place the thread through the take-up lever.
 Some machines are set up so the thread will slide into this while others require you to
place the thread through a hole.
 The thread will now go downward on the left side of the take-up lever.
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 Turn the hand wheel on the side of the machine to move the take-up lever to its
highest position.
 Draw the thread through or around it to secure it in the eye of the take-up lever.
Step 5: Locate and thread any thread guides, leading down to the sewing machine needle.
 Pull the thread down to the thread guide.
Step 6: Pull it through the lower thread guide.
Step 7: Thread the sewing machine needle.

 Pass the thread from needle eye/hole (right towards left).
 For best results, hold the thread with your left hand and turn the hand wheel.
 The needle is now threaded, and threading the machine is complete.
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Procedure of bobbin winding

Step 1: Remove the bobbin case.
Step 2: Remove the bobbin from the bobbin case for winding.
Step 3: Take the thread to a thread guide that is closest to the spool pin but heading for the
bobbin and guides the thread into the guide.
Step 4: There is some sort of a guide that might look like tension disk that the thread will go
between to hold tension on the thread before it goes to the bobbin.
 Pass the thread around the tension disk for the bobbin winder.
Step 5: Pass the thread through one of the small holes on the bobbin and place the bobbin on
the bobbin spindle.
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Step 6: Push the bobbin on the spindle to the right to make contact with the bobbin winding
device, then pushing the start button on the sewing machine or pressing the foot pedal if
using a manual process.
Step 7: Hold one end of the thread as the bobbin winds, the bobbin will begin to slow down
and stop when the bobbin is full.
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Step 8: Once the bobbin is full, the bobbin is pushed to the left, and removed; the excess
thread is cut from the end protruding from the small hole in the bobbin.
Step 9: The bobbin is now ready for insertion into the bobbin holder and threading the lower
thread or bringing up the bobbin thread as it is also called.
Step 10: Now insert the bobbin case into the shuttle under the sewing machine. Be sure to
hear the case being locked upon inserting the bobbin case inside the shuttle.
Bobbing winding is now finished.
The students would observe what path would be followed by thread for proper stitch
application and how the bobbin winding would be done to provide lower thread for stitch
application.
Conclusions
Requirement
Drawing the line diagram of needle thread passage and submission in same lab.
Questionnaire
1. What are the main functions of bobbin cover release button and feed dog?
2. How tension on upper thread can be controlled?
3. How tension on bobbin thread can be controlled?
4. If upper and bobbin threads do not have same tension what would be the effect on
stitch?
5. If stitch is not proper or gathers occur along the line of stitches what should be done
by an operator to get good quality stitching?
6. How thread extension can be controlled for proper stitching?
7. If a machine does not have thread guides what could happen during stitching?
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8. If the bobbin thread runs out and the operator must rewind the bobbin, how it could
affect the overall efficiency?
Experiment No. 4
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EXPERIMENT NO. 4
Title
Stitching Exercise –I on paper practice sheet-I using lock stitch machine.
Objective
 To grasp the procedure and points of the straight stitching, fixed position stops which
are the basic of sewing machine operation and reverse stitching using a lockstitch
machine.
Theory
Working Principle
Figure 1. Basic stitch formation
Preparation
 Sit straight with both hands on either side of the stitching area.
 Place the practice sheet on the predetermined position as shown before and after the
practice.
 Neither attach the needle nor passing the thread (be sure to securely tighten the needle
clamp screw after removing the needle).
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 Review the way of attaching the needle.
 Check well the fitness of the needle.
 Students could also use the plane paper initially for practicing with the needle before
starting stitching on the practicing sheet.
 Students could also stitch in between the lines on the sheet along with the lines to
enhance your stitching expertise.
Requirements before the lab conduction
1. You are required to understand the steps involved in the study of the correct position
of body, ON/OFF of the switch, how to put the foot on the pedal, how to operate the
pedal, and how to operate the knee lifter of a lockstitch sewing machine.
2. The instructor will ask you to demonstrate the steps learnt one by one.
Requirements before the use of lock stitch machine
1. Correct body position
If the sitting posture is not right, the operator soon gets tired and cannot sew well.
In addition, if the operator has a bad habit at the beginning, it is difficult to cure the habit.
Keep securely the right posture.
Following is some of the common points which ensure the correct pose of the body:
I. Adjust the height of the chair in accordance with the operator's height.
II. The position where the center of the body aligns with the needle bar is that of right
posture.
III. Sit in the chair deep enough with the straight backbone. Sit down while keeping a
space of two fists between the sewing machine table and the body.
Keeping in view the above principles, decide the operator's most convenient posture to work
considering the hand movement and the knee lifter operation.
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2. On/Off of the switch
I. On pressing the ON button on the power switch, the power is ON, and on pressing the
OFF button on the power switch, the power is OFF.
II. Keep the habit to surely turn the power switch OFF after using the sewing machine.
III. In addition, the sewing machine does not run unless the pedal is depressed even when
the power is ON.
3.Correct position of feet during stitching
 The way of using both feet is very important since the sewing machine is mainly run
by the pedal operation.
 Operate the machine in accordance with the following two steps:
I. Slightly put out the toe of the right foot forward from the pedal.
II. Slightly put out the heel of the left foot backward from the pedal.
4.How to operate the "pedal"
 The following four functions of the sewing machine are controlled by the pedal
operations:
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I. Start
II. Stop
III. ~peed adjustment
IV. Thread trimming (For Auto-trimmer Machine Only)

So, it is important more than anything else to learn the correct pedal operation in order to
quickly make progress in the sewing machine.
 Confirm and understand the pedal operation by the following description:

Low Speed (Start Position)
Depress the toe of the right foot lightly forward.
High Speed
Depress the toe of right foot further forward. The further the pedal is depressed, the faster the
sewing machine speed becomes.
Stop position
Depress the heel of the left foot lightly backward and return the angle of the pedal to the
initial position.
Thread trimming
 Depress the heel of the left foot further backward, the thread trimming device actuates
and trims the thread and the sewing machine stops with the needle in the upper
position.
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 In case the auto lifter is used, the switch is ON between 'Stop & Thread Trimming'.
When the pedal is depressed backward, the presser foot will go up. Further depress
the pedal backward, and thread trimmer will actuate
5.How to operate the knee-lifter
 The basic purpose of using the knee-lifter is to raise or lower the presser foot of the
sewing machine.
 When sitting in the right posture as discussed earlier, in front of the sewing machine,
the knee pad of the knee-lifter will touch the right thigh of the operator.
 On lightly pressing the knee pad with the right thigh, the presser foot will go up, and
the presser foot will come down when the thigh is returned to the original position.
Procedure
 Practice mainly the stitching on the line of the practice sheet - I. On the practice sheet,
line A1 is used for straight stitching and line A2 for fixed position stop (midway stop)
repeat.
 Practice using line A3 for straight stitching and line A4 & A5 for fixed stop position
(midway).
 Keep the speed of your machine low while practicing at the line of the A-series.
 Repeat the practice of each line 15 times without the needle and then with the needle
without thread.
 Practice the lines of B-series using the machine at high speed.
 Repeat the practice of each line 15 times without the needle and then with the needle
without thread.
 Practice the lines of -series for reverse stitching.
 Practice on the line C1 for reverse stitching (midway on the line) using the reverse
control lever of the machine.
 Practice on the line C2 for reverse stitching only at the end point of the stitching line.
 Practice on the line C3 for reverse stitching both at the start and end points during
stitching.
 Repeat the practice of each line 15 times without the needle and then with the needle.
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Figure 1. Stitching exercise sheet I.
Submission
Submit the practice sheet at the end of the practical session (stitched using only the needle).
Observations& Calculations
Conclusions
Draw your own conclusions according to the observations.
Questionnaire
1- What are the main precautions taken before, during and after sewing?
2- How the pedal position should be kept during stitching?
3- What is the function of knee lifter? Why is it applied in sewing machine?
4- Why is lock stitch machine mostly used in apparel industry?
5- What type of bed is used for lockstitch machine?
6- What are the main defects in sewing?
7- How the thread breakage could be avoided?
8- What is the relation of thread tension with proper stitching?
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Experiment No. 5
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EXPERIMENT NO. 5
Title
Stitching Exercise –I on paper practice sheet-II using lock stitch machine.
Objective
 To grasp the procedure and points of the combination of straight and corner stitching,
using the expertise of fixed position stop of the sewing machine operation using a
lockstitch machine.
Theory
Working Principle
Preparation
practice.
 Neither attach the needle nor passing the thread (be sure to securely tighten the needle
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clamp screw after removing the needle).
 Review the way of attaching the needle.
 Check well the fitness of the needle.
 Students could also use the plane paper initially for practicing with the needle before
starting stitching on the practicing sheet.
 Students could also stitch in between the lines on the sheet along with the lines to
enhance your stitching expertise.
Procedure
 Practice mainly the stitching on the line of the practice sheet - II (D series only).
 On the practice sheet, lines D1-D5 are used for the corner stitching.
 Initially keep the speed of your machine low while practicing at the lines.
 Firstly, perform the straight stitching say at line Dl.
 Stop the machine one stitch in front of the corner of the line intersecting place, slowing
down the speed of the machine.
 Move the machine one stitch in the forward direction manually using the hand wheel
and raise the presser foot using the knee lifter.
 Turn the sheet quickly; making the needle penetrated the sheet as a center as shown.
 Position so that the horizontal short line faces toward the center of the body and lower
the presser foot.
 Perform the straight stitching at line D2.
 Continuously perform the corner stitching in accordance with the procedure defined
earlier.
 Proceed with the practice of the stitching on the second block of the sheet.
 Try to keep your stitching time as minimum as possible.
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Figure 2. Exercise sheets for stitching exercise II.
Submission
Conclusions
Questions
1. What are the main precautions taken before, during and after sewing?
2. How the pedal position should be kept during stitching?
3. What is the function of knee lifter? Why is it applied in sewing machine?
4. Why is lock stitch machine mostly used in apparel industry?
5. What type of bed is used for lockstitch machine?
6. What are the main defects in sewing?
7. How the thread breakage could be avoided?
8. What is the relation of thread tension with proper stitching?
9. What are the possible causes of thread breakage?
10. How the proper stitching can be applied on curvy portions of the garment?
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Experiment No. 6
EXPERIMENT NO. 6
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Title
Stitching Exercise –III on paper practice sheet-III using lock stitch machine.
Objective
 To grasp the procedure and points of the combination of straight and corner stitching,
using the expertise of fixed position stop of the sewing machine operation using a
lockstitch machine.
 Review the corner stitching learned in the previous exercises and also practice making
the sewing allowance by taking the line as the material edge.
Theory
Working Principle
Preparation
practice.
 Review the corner stitching practice sheet # 03 (E-1 Line) and practice making the
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sewing allowance which is separated by 5mm along the Line at E-2, as the material
edge in the paper practice sheet # 4 (E) provided.
 Practice the right curve stitching on the sheet It 4 (F-1 Line), and then practice the left
curve stitching in the F-2 Line.
 Perform each practice as many times as possible using the plane paper.
 Practice on the paper sheet without passing the needle thread.
Procedure
 For Sheet It 03, start the sewing and drop the needle at the corner, stop the sewing
machine, and raise the presser foot.
 Quickly set the sheet to the line with the left hand and turn it.
 Correctly position the next straight line, and lower the presser foot.
 Enter to the straight stitching.
 Then, sew one after other the eight corners and straight line in accordance with the
arrangements discussed.
 For Sheet 04, start the sewing and perform the corner stitching of the three places.
 When the right curve has come perform the curve stitching.
 When curve stitching has been completed, again start the straight stitching and
perform next curve stitching.
 When performing the curve stitching, sew by turning the sheet more quickly than the
speed of the sewing machine.
 Perform the reverse stitching both at the start and end of the lines as shown.
 Review the way of threading the machine & clear both the threads (bothneedle and
bobbin thread) on the machine bed under the presser foot.
 Practice mainly the stitching on the fabric swatch firstly without passing the
 thread through the machine.
 Repeat this practice without thread passing 15 times.
 Try to keep your hands (to feed the fabric swatch) and feet movement (to control the
speed of the machine) according the guide lines provided in the demonstration phase
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and in the previous exercises.
 Complete the stitching of fabric swatches as per sketch. You may sketch it on your
fabric swatch for your convenience.
 Try to keep your stitching, time as minimum as possible.
Figure 1. Exercise sheet for stitching exercise III.
Submission
Conclusions
Questions
1. What is the best fabric for sewing practice?
2. Can we sew the paper in same manner and fabric?
3. What type of machine is better for sewing practices?
4. If sitting poster is not correct what could be the impact on stitcher?
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Experiment No. 7
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EXPERIMENT NO. 7
Title
Stitching Exercise-IV using a fabric swatch using lock stitch sewing machine.
Objectives
 To understand the procedure and points of the combination of straight and corner
stitching, using the expertise of fixed position stop of the sewing machine operation
using a lockstitch machine on the fabric.
Theory
Working Principle
Procedure
 The main requirements for stitching told in previous labs should be kept in mind.
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 Review the way of passing the thread through the lockstitch machine and complete
threading.
 Review the way of setting the bobbin into bobbin case and adjusting the way of
bobbin case into hook.
Figure 2. Stitching patterns for the lab.
 Clear both the threads both needle and bobbin threads on the machine bed under the
presser foot.
 Practice mainly the stitching on the fabric swatch firstly without passing the thread
through the machine keeping the distance between each stitch line of about 5mm (0.5
cm) starting from one edge on the outer side of the fabric swatch to the inner side
making the combination of both straight and corner stitching as demonstrated by the
instructor and as shown in diagram.
 Repeat this practice without thread passing 15 times.
 Try to keep your hands (to feed the fabric swatch) and feet movement (to control. the
speed of the machine) according to the guidelines provided in the demonstration
phase and in the previous exercises.
 Complete the stitching of fabric swatch as per sketch provided after threading the
machine.
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Submission
Submit the fabric swatch at the end of the practical session (stitched).
Conclusions
Questionnaire
1. What is the best fabric for sewing practice?
2. Can we sew the paper in same manner and fabric?
3. What type of machine is better for sewing practices?
4. If sitting poster is not correct what could be the impact on stitcher?
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Experiment No. 8
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EXPERIMENT NO. 8
Title
Study of parts and the functioning of overlock machine. Threading of 3 thread, overlock and
4 threads overlock sewing machine. Draw line diagram of needle and loopers thread.
Objectives
of the overlock sewing machine.
 To familiarize the students with threading route (of needles & loopers) through
different components involved in the overlock sewing machines
 To draw line diagram of thread passage through machine components for stitch
application.
Theory
There are many types of sewing machine. Some are used for special purposes such as
overlock machine, bar tack machine, buttonhole making machine etc. Overlock machine is
also called serger. A serger is an overlocker. An overlocker is a serger. This type of machines
works in a cycle and so these are called simple automatic machine. Here we study on such a
type of machine that is overlock machine. Overlock machines are specialized machines that
make the overlock stitch. The overlock stitch is used for edge finishing and seaming.
Overlock machines come in both home and industrial versions.
Figure 1. Overlock stitches applied onto fabrics.
Working Principle
The basic working principle of sewing machines differs from a lockstitch sewing machine in
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that it uses loopers fed by multiple thread cones rather than a bobbin. Loopers serve to create
thread loops that pass from the needle thread to the edges of the fabric so that the edges of the
fabric are contained within the seam.
Figure 2. Basic overlock stitch.

1.Componets of overlock machine
Procedure
Figure 3. Overlock machine and its parts

1. Thread stand
2. Thread package
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3. Thread guide
4. Disc type tensioner
5. Thread guides
6. Needles
7. Loopers
8. Thread cutter
9. Stitch dial
10. Power button
11. Balance wheel
12. Looper cover
13. Side cover
2.Machine threading
Procedure
 Students will be given the detailed introduction to the various parts of the machine
involved in the needle and loopers threading passage.
 Students will be given the threading demonstration.
 Students may take help from the sketches provided during report writing.
 At the end of the introduction and demonstration phases, students will be allowed to have
interaction and exchange of views with each other.
Figure 4. Three thread passage (1 needle, 2 loopers)
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Figure 5. Four thread passage (2 needle, 2 loopers)

Conclusions
2. Label the sketch of components of lock stitch machine.
3. Show the thread passage clearly either through colored pencil or by a thick line
representing the thread passing through different components (line diagram).
Figure 6. Sketch of thread passage through overlock machine components.
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Questionnaire
1- Why and where the overlock stitch has been used?
2- How the overlock machine is different from lockstitch machine?
3- What are the functions of looper and cutting knife in the overlock machine?
4- What is the difference between 3 thread and 4 thread overlock stitch?
5- Can we apply three thread and four thread overlock stitch on the same overlock machine?
6- What is the function of stitch dial?
7- How the width of stitch can be changed?
8- What is the function of thread take up lever, in sewing machines?
46
Experiment No. 9
47
EXPERIMENT NO. 9
Title
Stitching Exercise-V using a fabric swatch using overlock sewing machine.
Objectives
 To understand the procedure of stitching by using an overlock machine on the fabric.
Theory
There are many types of sewing machine. So
me are used for special purposes such as overlock machine, bar tack machine, buttonhole
making machine etc. Overlock machine is also called serger. A serger is an overlocker. An
overlocker is a serger. This type of machines works in a cycle and so these are called simple
automatic machine. Here we study on such a type of machine that is overlock machine.
Overlock machines are specialized machines that make the overlock stitch. The overlock
stitch is used for edge finishing and seaming. Overlock machines come in both home and
industrial versions.
Working Principle
The basic working principle of an overlock sewing machines differs from a lockstitch sewing
machine in that it uses loopers fed by multiple thread cones rather than a bobbin. Loopers
serve to create thread loops that pass from the needle thread to the edges of the fabric so that
the edges of the fabric are contained within the seam.
Figure 1. Basic overlock stitch.
Procedure
48
 Review the way of passing the thread through the needle/needles of overlock machine
and complete threading.
 Review the way of passing the thread through the looper/loopers of overlock machine
and complete threading.
Figure 2. Stitch application by overlock machine.
 Clear both the threads both needle and bobbin threads on the machine bed under the
presser foot.
through the machine starting from one edge of the fabric swatch to other edge as
demonstrated by the instructor and as shown in diagram.
 Repeat this practice without thread passing and knife setting, 15 times.
 Complete the stitching of fabric swatch as per demonstration after threading and
proper setting of the machine.
Submission
Conclusions
49
Questionnaire
1. What are the main precautions to be taken during overlock stitch application?
2. Is overlock necessary? Why?
3. Why and where the overlock stitch has been used?
4. How the overlock machine is different from lockstitch machine?
5. What are the functions of looper and cutting knife in the overlock machine?
6. What is the difference between 3 thread and 4 thread overlock stitch?
7. Can we apply three thread and four thread overlock stitch on the same overlock
machine?
8. What is the function of stitch dial?
9. How the width of stitch can be changed?
10. What is the function of thread take up lever, in sewing machines?
11. Can we apply overlock stitch in middle of fabric?
50
Experiment No. 10
51
EXPERIMENT NO. 10
Title
Study of parts and the functioning of chain stitch machine. Threading of a chain stitch
machine. Draw line diagram of needle and looper thread passage.
Objectives
of the chain stitch machine.
 To familiarize the students with threading route through different components

involved in the chain stitch machines
 To draw line diagram of thread passage through machine components for stitch
application.
Theory
overlock machine, chain stitch, bar tack machine, buttonhole making machine etc. chain
stitch machine is flatbed, multi-needle, double chain stitch machine. It is a multipurpose
sewing machine for attaching line tapes, elastic, waistband and sewing the front of the
shirt and also used for smocking and shirring which are ideal for underwear,
sportswear and ladies’ clothes.
Working Principle
a) Single thread chain stitch
The basic working principle of sewing machines differs from a lockstitch sewing machine in
that it uses loopers fed by multiple thread cones rather than a bobbin. The Basic Chain
stitch is made by first sending the needle down through the material. Then, as the needle rises
upward, the friction of the thread against the fabric is sufficient to form a small loop on the
underside of the material. That loop is caught by a circular needle which is beneath the work.
Figure 1. Basic single thread chain stitch.
52
b) Two/multithread chain stitch

Phase 1
 The needle is entered through the fabric with the thread & reaches to its lowest
position.
 Needle contains old loop around its blade.
 When needle moves on upward there will be the formation of a new loop.
Phase 2
 The new loop is caught by the looper (above the needle eye below the old loop)
 The needle moves upward.
 The old loop is cast off from the needle blade and slides on the base of the new loop,
which is still held by the looper.
 Between the new and old loop, an interlacement is to be formed under the fabric.
 In that time fabric is also moved one stitch forward due to the feed dog mechanism.
Phase 3
 The looper enlarges the new loop so that when needle again entered through the fabric
it passes through the loop.
 Then the looper leaves the loop, which held on the needle blade.
 This loop now becomes the old loop.
Figure 2. Two thread chain stitch.

Components of chain stitch machine
Procedure
Components
1) Thread stand
2) Thread guid3
53
3) Tension post:
4) Needle thread guide
5) Needle thread take-up lever
6) Needle clamp
7) Presser foot
8) Feed dogs:
9) Roller set up
10) Looper
11) Throat plate
12) Looper thread take-up lever
Figure 3. Chain stitch machine

2.Machine threading
Procedure
involved in the needle and loopers threading passage.
 At the end of the introduction and demonstration phases, students will be allowed to
have interaction and exchange of views with each other.
 At first, thread spool should be placed on the thread stand.
 Then thread should be passed according to their passing path.
 The thread tension would be maintained with the help of tension post.
 Thread passing through the needle and looper by setting up machine properly.
54
 Then we power on the machine for sewing a fabric.

Conclusions
1. You are required to sketch the chain stitch machine from the pictorial view, or the view
suited to you for representing the maximum components.
2. Label the sketch of components of chain stitch machine.
Figure 4. Sketch of thread passage through overlock machine components.
Questionnaire
1. What is difference between single thread and 2 thread chain stitch?
2. Is chain stitch secured just like lock stitch machine?
3. Can we apply chain stitch on overlock machine?
4. Where is the single thread chain stitch mostly used? Why?
5. How does the chain stitch machine work?
6. Can you apply chain stitch with lock stitch machine?
7. How the chain stitch differs from lock stitch?
55
Experiment No. 11
56
EXPERIMENT NO. 11
Title
Stitching Exercise-VI using a fabric swatch using chain stitch machine.
Objectives
 To understand the procedure of stitching by using an overlock machine on the fabric.

Theory
overlock machine, chain stitch, bar tack machine, buttonhole making machine etc. chain
stitch machine is flatbed, multi-needle, double chain stitch machine. It is a multipurpose
sewing machine for attaching line tapes, elastic, waistband and sewing the front of the
shirt and also used for smocking and shirring which are ideal for underwear,
sportswear and ladies’ clothes.
Working principle
Figure 1. Basic single thread chain stitch.
Figure 2. Two thread chain stitch.
Procedure
57
 Review the way of passing the thread through the needle/needles of chain stitch
machine and complete threading.
 Review the way of passing the thread through the looper/loopers of chain machine
and complete threading for 2 thread or multithread chain stitching.
 Clear both the threads both needle and looper threads on the machine bed under the
presser foot.
through the machine starting from one edge of the fabric swatch to other edge as
demonstrated by the instructor and as shown in diagram.
 Repeat this practice without passing the thread, 15 times.
 Complete the stitching of fabric swatch as per demonstration after threading and
proper setting of the machine.
Submission
Conclusions
Questions
9- ???/
58
Experiment No. 12
59
EXPERIMENT NO. 12
Title
Stitching Exercise-VII – Application of different types of seams using different stitches.
Objectives
 To familiarize the students with the various seams and stitches.
Theory
From the hem to the pockets to the darts in a blouse, seams create structure and shape for all
clothing and other sewn items. There are a variety of different seams, and when deciding
which seam to use, make sure to consider the type of fabric and function of the garment. For
higher-end garments, consistent stitches and high-quality seam finishes are important, while
for a more casual style, frayed seams and variety stitches can be used. Superimposed seam
is formed by joining two or more pieces of fabric, usually with seam allowance edges even
and one piece superimposed over another. Lapped seam is formed by two or more pieces of
a fabric joined by overlapping at the needle. Bound seam is formed by sewing one piece of a
fabric or binding as it encompasses the edge of one or more piece of a fabric. While Flat
seam has only six different types. It is formed by sewing together two butted pieces of a
fabric, but not overlapping them. Selection of correct seam type for a particular assembly is
very important as the improper selection of stitch type, seam type or thread type can result in
failure of the sewn seam and failure of the garment. The seam represents a very important
functional and technical aspect for garments in contact with the skin. The most important
aspect of a properly constructed sewn seam is strength, elasticity, durability, security, and
appearance. These characteristics must be balanced with the properties of the material to be
joined to form the optimum sewn seam. The selection of the seam type and stitch type should
be based upon these considerations.
Working principle
N/A
Procedure
 Take a piece of a fabric and adjusted the ones of threads on a stand.
 Pass the thread from different parts of the lockstitch machine or over lock stitch
machine and at last from the needle.
 Fill the bobbin with another thread and placed the bobbin in the bobbin case in case of
lock stitch.
60
 Pass thread from looper/loppers for overlock stitch application.

 Form a superimposed seam (SSa and SSb) by joining the two pieces of fabric in such
a way that one is superimposed over another on the lockstitch machine or overlock
stitch machine.
 Form a lapped seam (LSa and LSb) by joining the two pieces of a fabric in such a way
that they are overlapping at the needle on the lockstitch machine.
 Form a flat seam (FSa) on the flat lock machine by joining the two pieces of a fabric
which are not overlapping.
Figure 1. Lapped Seam Superimposed Seam Flat seam
Submission
Submit the fabric with various seams at the end of the practical session (stitched).
Observations & discussion
Conclusions
Questions
1. What is the difference between superimposed and lapper seam?
2. Can you apply lapper seam with an overlock stitch machine?
3. Can you apply flat seam with a n overlock stitch machine?
4. According to you, which seam could provide best results for denim if all other
factors are constant?
5. What is the difference between seam and stitch?
6. Can seam affect the drape of fabric? What do you think?
61
Experiment No. 13
62
EXPERIMENT NO. 13
Title
Study of parts and functioning of button Attaching machine. Threading of button Attaching
machine.
Objectives
of the button Attaching machine.
 To familiarize the students with threading route through different components

involved in the button Attaching machine.
 To draw line diagram of thread passage through machine components for button
Attaching.
Theory
A button attaching machine is used to sew the button in the garment without damaging
it. Various types of buttons like a button with two holes, four holes or shank could be sewn
on this machine by making simple adjustments. The sewing action comprises a series of
parallel stitches whose length is equal to the distance between the centers of the holes. The
needle has only vertical movement, but the button moves sideways by means of the button
clamp for stitching. A hopper feed is a special Attaching that automatically feeds the button
to the clamp of the needle point of the machine. With this Attaching, the button and needle
are automatically positioned, and the threads are clipped. Button attaching machine is ideal
for stitching Shirts, T-shirts, Uniforms etc. It is highly applicable in number of different
garment applications. There are different types of buttons attaching machine and different
types of clamps are needed for different types and sizes of buttons. Especially there may two
or three holes in the button. Again, button of three holes may be attached by parallel or cross
sewing. Buttons may be of different types specially there may be shank below the button or
during sewing shank may be made by thread. For sewing button lock stitch, chain stitch or
hand stitch machine may be used
Working Principle
There are many types of sewing machine. Some are used for special purposes such as bartack
machine, button hole making machine etc. This type of machines works in a cycle and so
63
these are called simple automatic machine to attach the button.
Figure 1. Button Attaching by cyclic motion.
1.Components of chain stitch machine

Procedure
Figure 3. Button Attaching machine.

Components
1) Thread stand
2) Thread guide
3) Disc type tensioner
4) Thread guides
5) Thread take-up lever
6) Thread guide
7) Needle
8) Clamp
64
2.Machine threading
Procedure
involved in threading passage.
 At the end of the introduction and demonstration phases, students will be allowed to
have interaction and exchange of views with each other.
 At first, thread spool should be placed on the thread stand.
 Then thread should be passed according to their passing path.
 The thread tension would be maintained with the help of tension post.
 Thread passing through the needle and setting up machine properly for button
attachment.
 Then power on the machine for button attachment.
Figure 4. Thread passage of button Attaching machine.

The students would observe different parts of button Attaching machine, their functions and
importance of each in button attachment.
Conclusions
65

1. You are required to sketch the button Attaching machine from the pictorial view, or the
view suited to you for representing the maximum components.
2. Label the sketch of components of button Attaching machine.
Questionnaire
1. How the functioning of button attachment is different from other sewing machines?
2. How does the machine work?
3. How the tension on thread can be controlled?
4. What are the main parts of button attaching machine?
5. Can we sew garment with button attaching machine?
66
Thank you!
67

Introduction To Garment Manufacturing (TE-2114)

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Introduction to Garment Manufacturing (TE-2114)

Overall Aims & Objectives of the Course:

Aim and Objectives of the course:

This course is designed to give in-breath knowledge of Garment manufacturing

Figure 1. Straight knife cutter used in apparel industry.

Figure 1. Basic stitch formation.

Figure 2. Basic machine parts.

Observations and Calculations

Figure 3. Sketch of lock stitch machine components.

Figure 1. Basic stitch formation.

6. Lower thread guide

Step 3: Now look for a tension mechanism.

 The thread is now moving in a clockwise direction.

Step 6: Pull it through the lower thread guide.

Step 7: Thread the sewing machine needle.

 The needle is now threaded, and threading the machine is complete.

Procedure of bobbin winding

Figure 1. Basic stitch formation

 Review the way of attaching the needle.

 Check well the fitness of the needle.

2. On/Off of the switch

 Operate the machine in accordance with the following two steps:

4.How to operate the "pedal"

III. ~peed adjustment

IV. Thread trimming (For Auto-trimmer Machine Only)

 Confirm and understand the pedal operation by the following description:

 Practice the lines of B-series using the machine at high speed.

 Practice the lines of -series for reverse stitching.

Figure 1. Stitching exercise sheet I.

2- How the pedal position should be kept during stitching?

3- What is the function of knee lifter? Why is it applied in sewing machine?

4- Why is lock stitch machine mostly used in apparel industry?

5- What type of bed is used for lockstitch machine?

6- What are the main defects in sewing?

7- How the thread breakage could be avoided?

8- What is the relation of thread tension with proper stitching?

Figure 1. Basic stitch formation.

clamp screw after removing the needle).

 Review the way of attaching the needle.

 Check well the fitness of the needle.

 Firstly, perform the straight stitching say at line Dl.

 Perform the straight stitching at line D2.

 Try to keep your stitching time as minimum as possible.

Figure 2. Exercise sheets for stitching exercise II.

2. How the pedal position should be kept during stitching?

3. What is the function of knee lifter? Why is it applied in sewing machine?

4. Why is lock stitch machine mostly used in apparel industry?

5. What type of bed is used for lockstitch machine?

6. What are the main defects in sewing?

7. How the thread breakage could be avoided?

8. What is the relation of thread tension with proper stitching?

9. What are the possible causes of thread breakage?

Figure 1. Basic stitch formation.

 Practice on the paper sheet without passing the needle thread.

 Enter to the straight stitching.

 thread through the machine.

 Repeat this practice without thread passing 15 times.

and in the previous exercises.

 Try to keep your stitching, time as minimum as possible.

Figure 1. Exercise sheet for stitching exercise III.

2. Can we sew the paper in same manner and fabric?

3. What type of machine is better for sewing practices?