Course Title: Maintenance of Apparel Manufacturing Engineering Lab

Course Code: TEX 491

SUbmitted By SUbmitted To

Hossain Mohammad Murad MS. ISRAT PARVEEN

ID: BTE 012 05 714 Lecturer,

Department of Textile Engineering.

Department of Textile Engineering, PCIU Port City International University

Date of Submission: 15/12/2020

 Assignment name:
“Study on different parts of overlook sewing
machine and function with figure.”
The overlock machine is different from the lockstitch sewing machine, cut the edge of fabrics, and cover
two parts of fabrics by stitching. Overlock machine has different types of specifications, from 2/3 to 6
threads that e used. Here in this article, we will have a tail discussion of Overlock Sewing Machine Types,
Specifications, and Technical Adjustment.

Fig: Overlock Sewing Machine

Objective:

1. To learn about Overlock Sewing Machine

2. To learn about different parts of the machine
3. To learn functions of the machine

Types of Overlock Sewing Machine

An overlock / over edge machine is a high-speed sewing machine. This is the quickest performing
machine for giving overedge stitches. Overlock Machines Are available in following Specifications

 2 Thread Overlock machine

 3 Thread Overlock Machine
 4 Thread Overlock Machine
 5 Thread Overlock Machine
 6 Thread Overlock Machine

The Relationship between Overlock Machine and Number of Thread Used

Serial No. Machine Name No. Of Threads use Total threads use Needle Looper

1 2 Thread Overlock Machine 1 1 2

2 3 Thread Overlock Machine 1 2 3

3 4 Thread Overlock Machine 2 2 4

4 5 Thread Overlock Machine 2 3 5

5 6 Thread Overlock Machine 3 3 6

Features of Overlock Sewing Machine

 Maximum Machine speed 6500 SPM (vary operation wise)

 Stitch can be made using 2,3,4,5 or 6 threads, depending on the no. of needles and looper
 Stitch length 2 to 4 mm
 Stitching type- Overlock stitch
 The used feed is Deferential feed
 Oil lubrication system- Automatic
 Used in Woven, knit; all types of garments
Sewing Machine Parts

1. Spool Pin

Thread usually comes on a spool. That is the wooden thread holder you buy in the store. The spool pin
holds the spool of thread for you making it easier for you to thread your machine and keep the thread
coming as you want it to. Read about the spool pin felt.

2. Bobbin Binder Spindle

A bobbin is a little cylinder that may come with or without flanges. It holds the thread that is wound
around it. The spindle is where the bobbin is placed during winding.

3. Bobbin Winder Stopper

The bobbin is only so large. It cannot always hold the amount of thread you want to put on it. This part
stops the bobbin from collecting thread when it has reached full capacity.

4. Stitch Width Dial

On many newer sewing machines, you get a variety of stitch options to use. The purpose of this part is
to control the zig-zag stitch option while you are busy concentrating on your sewing.

5. Pattern Selector Dial

This little dial allows you to select one stitch pattern out of the many that come built into your sewing
machine. You just turn the dial to get the pattern that you want on your clothes and other fabrics you
want to mend or create.

6. Hand Wheel

This is the manual needle control which raises or lowers the needle. It is usually located at the right-hand
side of the machine. It shouldn’t be that hard to turn.

7. Stitch Length Dial

More recent sewing machines may have this part attached to them. Its purpose is to control the length
of your selected stitch. This helps you stay in control of your sewing duties and make sure you get what
you want and need.

8. Reverse Stitch Lever

Once you push this lever, you get to sew in the opposite direction. This function makes your sewing a
little easier and faster to do because you can go forward or in reverse when you need to.
9. Power Switch

You already know what this switch does. The key to using it is to make sure you turned your sewing
machine off before you walk away. Also, it should be located at the right side of your machine.

10. Bobbin Winder Thread Guide

When you activate this part on your sewing machine, you are guiding the thread towards the bobbin/
This makes winding your thread up a little easier and should prevent twists, tangles or caught thread.

11. Thread Tension Dial

Tension is important when you do your sewing. Too loose can cause you problems and too much tension
could snap your thread and make sewing more time consuming as you have to re-thread the machine.
This little part simply controls the tension on the thread so be careful when you use it.

12. Thread Take-Up Lever

Your top thread passes through this part as you do your sewing. The lever moves up and down with your
needle so do not be alarmed that it is constantly moving.

13. Needle Clamp Screw

Needles do not stay in place by themselves. It would be nice if they did. You need this part to hold your
needle where it is supposed to be. It also makes sure your needle is secure as it moves.

14. Presser Foot

This is the part that holds your fabric so it does not slip all over the place while you are working.
Controlling your fabric is important while you do your sewing.

15. Bobbin Cover

Your sewing machine parts do need some protection to keep them in top working order and to help
then last you for years. This is the job of the bobbin cover. It protects the bobbin as it covers it.

16. Bobbin Cover Release Button

Also, you need access to your bobbin when it its filled with thread or there is a problem. This release
button helps you to remove the bobbin cover so you have complete access to your bobbin.

17. Feed Dog

It is an interesting name, but it has a very straightforward function., This part feeds your fabric through
the sewing machine while you are sewing. This helps you concentrate on other sewing needs as you
work.
18. Needle

Another self-explanatory label that tells you everything you need to know. The needle is an integral part
of the sewing machine and without it, the other parts cannot do their job.

19. Needle Plate

This part is located right under the needle and an under the presser foot. Its job is to help move the
fabric forward as you sew. It may help help push the fabric back when you use the reverse mode on your
sewing machine.

20. Lubricating Mechanisms

This brings the oil and other lubricating materials to your moving sewing machine parts.

Lubrication for Overlock Machine:

Quality machine oil is recommendable as the lubricant.

Lubrication
Feeding OiI:

Because oil in machine have been drained completely at the shipment when it must be replenished with
new oil without fail before the operation. The feeding should be made up to the upper one of 2 lines of
Oil Sight Gauge(A) removing Oil Cap (D) marked OIL. At the beginning use of brand new machine and the
reuse of machine after long suspension of operation feed 2 or 3 drops of oil to Needle Bar(B) and Upper
Looper Bar(C) without any fail.

Oil Gauge and Confirmation of Oil Flow:

Before the operation every day check the Oil Gauge regularly and replenish oil if the oil surface is below
2 lines. Oil Cap (D) should be tightened after the replenishment. At the beginning of operation confirm
also that oil is flowing out of Oil Nozzle looking through Oil Cap (0).

Exchange of 0iI for Overlock Sewing Machine:

To have a long life of overlock sewing machine, after operation of about 250 hours the oil should be
changed completely.

After that, the oil should be changed 2 or 3 times a year. Oil change should be made as follows.

 Bring the machine head on the Table and

 Drain oil and removing Drain Screw(E)
 After draining, tighten the Drain Screw(E) again without fail
 To replenish the new oil, refer to “Feeding Oil”

Check of Oil Filter and Exchange:

If the Oil Filter clogged with dust normal feeding of oil is impossible. Ordinarily, it is recommended to
check the Filter every six months. In case of no oil comes out of Nozzle despite the oil reservoir is
sufficient and in case of reservoir of oil is extremely little, check the machine.

Exchange

To repair ad check the Filter of Overlock Sewing Machine remove Oil Filter Cap(G). If the Filter is clogged
with dust, it must be renewed. You can read more about this machine from brother sewing machine
manual of their official site
Conclusion:

Overlock Sewing Machine is very first sewing machine made by brother and other manufacturers. The
sewing machine which is used for sewing edge or to join two or more fabric pieces by five or more
threads is called over lock sewing machine. Usually this machine will cut the edges of the cloth as they
are fed though some are made without machine cutters.
 Assignment name:
“Study on Mechanism of quilting machine and function
with figure”
Quilting, sewing technique in which two layers of fabric, usually with an insulating interior layer, are
sewn together with multiple rows of stitching. It has long been used for clothing in China, the Middle
East, North Africa, and the colder areas of Europe but is now primarily associated with the construction
of bedcovers and wall hangings.

Machine quilting is quilting made using a sewing machine to stitch in rows or patterns using select
techniques to stitch through layers of fabric and batting in the manner of old-style hand-quilting. Some
machines even replicate hand stitching.

Objectives:

1. To learn about features

2. To learn how it works

 Fig: Quilting Machine

Techniques:

To begin any machine quilting, the three layers of the quilt, the quilt top, batting and backing fabric, are
temporarily basted either with safety pins or with basting spray. Stitching in a straight line is normally
accomplished by replacing the normal presser foot with an even feed walking foot attachment. This
gadget was designed to avoid puckering by advancing multiple layers at the same rate as the feed dogs
of the machine. With the feed dogs up, the length of the stitch is controlled by the stitch length setting
of the machine.
Free-motion quilting

Free-motion quilting is a process used to stitch the layers of a quilt together using a domestic sewing
machine with the feed dogs lowered, with a darning foot installed. When the feed dogs are lowered
they do not advance the fabric; and with the darning foot merely hovering over the layers, the operator
controls the stitch length as well as the direction of the stitching line by moving the quilt with their
hands. The stitching can be made in any direction and to for curvilinear lines or straight patterns. Each
design, whether drawn on the quilt top or held in the imagination of the quilter, is formed with a line of
stitching that is guided by the movement of the quilt under the machine needle. The length of each
stitch is determined by the distance the quilt has been moved since the previous stitch.

Making A Quilt Sandwich

 Lay the backing fabric on the floor with the BACK of the fabric facing UP (that means the printed
or right side of the fabric is facing the floor.

 Starting with one side, use painter’s tape to stick one side of the backing to the floor.
Jump to the opposite side of the fabric and tape the other side to the floor.

 Tape all sides of the backing to the floor, making sure to smooth out all of the wrinkles.

 Place the batting on top of the backing fabric and trim it to fit. They should be roughly the same
size.

 Use scissors to trim long stray threads.

 Smooth out the pieced quilt on top of the other two layers.

 Pin a safety pin at least every four inches working in rows throughout the quilt. Try to scatter
them so that they are the most effective in holding the sandwich in place.

Features:

• 200 stitches or more for any fabric: basic, decorative, quilting

• LCD Screen shows stitch selections and settings

• Stitch sequencing memory to create unique combinations

• Speed control for precision or high volume

Parts of Quilting Machine:

Built-In Lettering
Personalize projects with words, phrases or monograms

Mirror Imaging

Invert stitch patterns from side to side for more creative options

Built-In Stitches

Choose from a variety of stitches for basic sewing, decorative sewing, and more

One-Step Buttonhole

Buttonholes are sewn in one easy step. Just place the button in the buttonhole foot and the machine
sews a buttonhole perfectly sized for that button, delivering consistent results every time.

Built-In Needle Threader

Effortlessly threads the eye of the needle - eliminates eye strain and saves you time

Top Drop In Bobbin

Easy to thread and easy to see! The transparent bobbin and cover allow you to monitor your thread
supply so you don't run out of thread in the middle of a seam.

Built-In Thread Cutter

Trim both the top and bobbin threads with the touch of a button. No need to draw up the bobbin thread
to start sewing again.

Drop Feed

Feed teeth can be lowered for button sewing or free-motion sewing - a must-have for quilters! Simply
slide the Drop Feed Lever to lower the feed teeth. Slide it back and turn the handwheel one full turn to
raise the feed teeth again.

Adjustable Stitch Length

Customize the appearance of a stitch by increasing or decreasing the distance between stitches. Use this
function for various stitch techniques like applique, basting and more.

Adjustable Stitch Width

The size of the stitch from left to right is adjustable, to make the stitch sew narrower or wider as desired.

Self-Adjusting Tension System

Select your stitch with the turn of a dial, and the machine will adjust the tensions for your selected stitch
automatically, saving you time.

Reverse

Sew stitches in reverse, usually done to secure a seam at the beginning and end to prevent unraveling.

Heavy Duty Metal Frame

The machine's interior frame is metal, providing long lasting durability

High Speed Stitching

Professional speed for faster results.

Speed Control

Set the maximum sewing speed of the machine

Start/Stop Button

Allows you to sew without using the foot control, if desired. Press the button to start sewing, then press
again to stop sewing.

Needle Up/Down

Select the needle's stopping position on demand

Programmable Needle Up/Down

Set the needle's stopping position as desired. Press to have the needle stop down in the fabric each time
you stop sewing, great for applique, topstitching and more.

LCD Screen

LCD screen clearly displays your selected stitch as well as stitch settings for length and width.

Touch Screen

Touch the LCD screen to select stitches and stitch settings, view recommended presser foot and more

Snap-On Presser Feet

Presser feet can be easily removed and attached when needed for various sewing techniques

Variable Needle Positions

Adjust position of needle as desired for various sewing techniques like topstitching, edgestitching, zipper
application, piping insertion and more

Twin-Needle Function

For stitches other than the straight stitch, this function reduces stitch width for sewing with a twin
needle so the needles clear the presser foot while sewing.

FIG: quilting Machine

Conclusion:

Quilting varies from a purely functional fabric joinery technique to highly elaborate, decorative three
dimensional surface treatments. A wide variety of textile products are traditionally associated with
quilting that includes bed coverings, soft home furnishings, garments and costumes, wall hangings,
artistic objects and cultural artefacts.
 Assignment name:
“Study on Mechanism of smocking machine
and function with figure.”
Smocking is an embroidery technique used to gather fabric so that it can stretch. Before elastic,
smocking was commonly used in cuffs, bodices, and necklines in garments where buttons were
undesirable. Smocking developed in England and has been practised since the Middle Ages and is
unusual among embroidery methods in that it was often worn by laborers. Other major embroidery
styles are purely decorative and represented status symbols. Smocking was practical for garments to be
both form fitting and flexible, hence its name derives from smock — a farmer's work shirt. Smocking
was used most extensively in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries

Objectives:

1. To know about smoking machine

2. To know about it features
3. To learn about the methods

Materials

Smocking requires lightweight fabric with a stable weave that gathers well. Cotton and silk are typical
fiber choices, often in lawn or voile. Smocking is worked on a crewel embroidery needle in cotton or silk
thread and normally requires three times the width of initial material as the finished item will
have.Historically, smocking was also worked in piqué, crepe de Chine, and cashmere. According to Good
Housekeeping: The Illustrated Book of Needlecrafts, "Any type of fabric can be smocked if it is supple
enough to be gathered."

Fabric can be gathered into pleats in a variety of ways.

Early smocking, or gauging, was done by hand. Some embroiderers also made their own guides using
cardboard and an embroidery marking pencil. By 1880, iron-on transfer dots were available and
advertised in magazines such as Weldon's. The iron on transfers places evenly spaced dots onto the
wrong side of the fabric, which were then pleated using a regular running stitch.

Since the early 1950s, pleating machines have been available to home smockers. Using gears and
specialty pleater needles, the fabric is forced through the gears and onto the threaded needles. Pleating
machines are typically offered in 16-row, 24-row and 32-row widths.

Features:

Smocking refers to work done before a garment is assembled. It usually involves reducing the
dimensions of a piece of fabric to one-third of its original width, although changes are sometimes
lesser with thick
fabrics. Individual smocking stitches also vary considerably in tightness, so embroiderers usually work a
sampler for practice and reference when they begin to learn smocking.[2]

Traditional hand smocking begins with marking smocking dots in a grid pattern on the wrong side of the
fabric and gathering it with temporary running stitches. These stitches are anchored on each end in a
manner that facilitates later removal and are analogous to basting stitches. Then a row of cable stitching
stabilizes the top and bottom of the working area.

Smocking may be done in many sophisticated patterns

FIG: Smoking Machine

How a machine smoking works:

 Machine smocking a piece of fabric involves gathering the fabric rather than pleating it.
Gathering rows are sewn 3/8" apart along the smocked section of the material.
 Once the gathering rows are sewn, the fabric is gathered as uniformly and tightly as possible by
pulling the bobbin thread.
 It's important that pleats are uniform, as it will make the stitching process go much smoother.
 Once "pleats" are made one can press the gathered material so that it sits at relatively the same
height, and feeds through machine nicely.
 sewing machine manual lists three separate decorative stitches that will work with smocking. All
of the stitches involve some sort of zig zag pattern. The angled stitches allow you to connect
your pleats, and also allows for greater stretch in the garment.

 Once it have selected your

stitch you can adjust the
stitch width and length to
desired size.
 sewing machine requires
the monogramming foot
when smocking. Center
needle between the
gathering rows, they will
act as a guide to ensure
straight rows.
 it was helpful to maintain a
consistent speed when
using my smocking
stitches.
Any irregularity in speed would effect the stitch quality.
 Once it have smocked between each of it’s gathering rows, can pull (or pick) out it’s gathering
stitches. It will be left with rows of smocking that are both decorative and functional (proving
stretch). Using machine smocking one can avoid pleating and hand embroidering a garment.

Conclusion:

Smocking is a technique of creating wavy patterns on fabric and garments. Unlike embroidery more
fabric is required for smocking. There are different techniques used to complete the pattern. Techniques
and materials followed for each of the smocking type vary from region to region.