DAR ES SALAAM INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY

MWANZA CAMPUS.

DEPARTMENT OF LEATHER PRODUCTS TECHNOLOGY.

ORDINARY DIPLOMA IN LEATHER PRODUCTS TECHNOLOGY.

(NTA LEVEL 6)

PROJECT PROPOSAL.

PROJECT TITLE : DESIGN AND MAKING A SHOE CUTTING DIE.

PROJECT TYPE : PROBLEM SOLVING.

MODULE : MFLT 06105.

STUDENT NAME : DORTHEO FILIMINI LAURENT.

REGISTRATION NO : 200812021463.

CLASS : OD 20LPT.

ACADEMIC YEAR : 2022/2023

SUPERVISOR`S NAME : FREDRICK TERANYA MPHUBUSA.

1
 TABLE OF CONTENTS
DECLARATION....................................................................................................................iii

CERTIFICATION..................................................................................................................iv

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT.......................................................................................................v

LIST OF FIGURES................................................................................................................vi

LIST OF ABBREVIATION..................................................................................................vii

CHAPTER ONE.....................................................................................................................1

INTRODUCTION....................................................................................................................1

1.0 CUTTING DIE..........................................................................................................1

1.1 STATEMENT OF THE PROBLEM........................................................................1

1.2 PROJECT OBJECTIVES..........................................................................................2

1.2.0 GENERAL OBJECTIVES................................................................................2

1.2.1 SPECIFIC OBJECTIVES.................................................................................2

1.3 SIGNIFICANCE OF THE PROJECT.......................................................................2

1.4 SCOPE OF THE PROJECT.....................................................................................2

CHAPTER TWO...................................................................................................................3

LITERATURE REVIEW.........................................................................................................3

2.0 INTRODUCTION TO CUTTING DIE...................................................................3

2.1 TYPES OF CUTTING DIE.......................................................................................4

2.1.0 FLATBED DIE CUTTING...............................................................................4

2.1.1 SIMPLE DIE.....................................................................................................5

2.1.2 COMPOUND DIE............................................................................................5

2.1.3 PROGRESSIVE DIE........................................................................................5

2.1.4 COMBINATION DIE.......................................................................................5

2.1.5 ROTARY DIE...................................................................................................6

2.1.6 FLEXIBLE ROTARY DIE................................................................................6

2.1.7 SOLID DIE.......................................................................................................6

i
 2.1.8 SEMI-ROTARY DIE CUTTING.....................................................................7

2.1.9 MANUAL DIE CUTTER.................................................................................7

2.1.10 DIGITAL DIE CUTTER..................................................................................8

CHAPTER THREE...............................................................................................................9

METHODOLOGY...................................................................................................................9

3.0 AREA OF STUDY...................................................................................................9

3.1 RAW MATERIALS COLLECTION.......................................................................9

3.2 PREPARATION OF CUTTING DIE......................................................................9

3.2.1 TOOLS AND MACHINE REQUIRED...........................................................9

3.2.2 RAW MATERIAL REQUIRED.......................................................................9

3.3 ESTIMATED BUDGET........................................................................................14

REFERENCES.....................................................................................................................15

ii
 DECLARATION.

I, Dortheo Filimini Laurent, declare that this project proposal is my own work and it has not
been submitted by any student in the institute or any other institute for academic activities.

Signature …………………………………… Date…………………

iii
 CERTIFICATION.

I, Fredrick Teranya Mphubusa certify that I have read this project proposal and hereby
recommend for the acceptance by the Dar es salaam institute of technology, a project titled
“MAKING A SHOE CUTTING DIE” in fulfillment of requirement for the award of
diploma in leather products technology at DAR ES SALAAM INSTITUTE OF
TECHNOLOGY.

Signature………………. Date………………….

iv
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT.

I would like to thank my almighty God for his grace of giving me capability of
accomplishing my academic responsibilities and ultimately enabling me to reach where I am
today.

Special gratitude to my project supervisor Fredrick Teranya Mphubusa for guidance,

support and cooperation which helped me to reshape my thinking toward realization of my
thought as it appears now.

I would also like to take this opportunity to thank all staff in the department of leather
product technology (DIT) Mwanza, project coordinator Vincent Mwakapola for support and
cooperation which helped me to reach the desired goal.

v
 LIST OF FIGURES.

Figure 1: Picture of military boot quarter face cutting die.......................................................4

Figure 2: Standard pattern......................................................................................................11
Figure 3: Cutting die vamp pattern........................................................................................11
Figure 4: Counter cutting die pattern.....................................................................................12
Figure 5: Shoe vamp cutting die............................................................................................12
Figure 6: Counter shoe cutting die.........................................................................................13

vi
 LIST OF ABBREVIATION.

CNC Computerized Numerical Control.

DIT Dar Es Salaam Institute of Technology.

LOP Labour, Overhead and Profit.

vii
 CHAPTER ONE.

INTRODUCTION.

1.0 CUTTING DIE.

The usage of die in the manufacturing industry began in the 1300s when die and heavy
hammer would be used to stamp of metal coins and create labels. In the mid-1800s,
shoemakers began using a die to punch out the soles of shoes from lengths of leather, thus
saving them the trouble of measuring and cutting the soles out by hand. This new die-cutting
method took much less time and produce more neat and precise results. Before the invention
of the die-cutting method, the process of creating shoes lacked consistency and many were
poorly shaped, riddled with errors or didn’t match the feet of the customer. Cutting shoe
leather was imperfect, and it drained far too much time to create new customers a custom
pair. The die-cutting process was quickly adopted into machines that could punch out the
leather. (Scott Chambers 2022). Thus, why I came up with this project of manufacture
cutting dies to solve this problem especially for small producers.

Cutting die; these are metal with specific shapes with cutting edges, used to press into
leather and cut out a specific shape.

Uniformity; the quality or fact of being same or of not changing or being different any way.
(https://www.britannica.com).

1.1 STATEMENT OF THE PROBLEM.

In our country we import cutting die from foreign countries which cost a lot of money when
importing cutting die.(https://exim trade data.com). The situation that causes many small
shoe makers to use hand scissor cutting which take a lot of time to finish cutting process and
it is difficult to maintain uniformity of their products. This project will solve these problems
by producing affordable cutting die which most of SMES can afford.

1
1.2 PROJECT OBJECTIVES.
1.2.0 GENERAL OBJECTIVES.
To produce shoe cutting dies.

1.2.1 SPECIFIC OBJECTIVES.

i. To design shoe pattern for making vamp and counter cutting die.
ii. To make shoe vamp cutting die.
iii. To make shoe counter cutting die.
iv. To test performance of vamp and counter cutting die.

1.3 SIGNIFICANCE OF THE PROJECT.

i. The significance of the study is;
ii. The project will help to minimize the cost of producing shoes.
iii. The project will help to minimize production time.
iv. The project will help to increase uniformity of shoes in a certain size.
v. The project will help to cut more than one layer of material.

1.4 SCOPE OF THE PROJECT.

The scope of this project will be small scales production of manual shoe cutting die, and it
will be performed at DIT-Mwanza campus workshop at designing stage and manufacture at
SIDO Ilemela, Mwanza, Tanzania.

2
 CHAPTER TWO.

LITERATURE REVIEW.

2.0 INTRODUCTION TO CUTTING DIE.

Mass production of footwear requires cutting every type of shoe material. Shoe leather,
fabric, foam, and reinforcing materials must all be cut into the shoe pattern shapes. While
there are many new technologies for cutting shoe materials such as a laser, water jet, and
CNC drag knife; the steel rule cutting die is the most common for footwear production.
(Scott, 2022).

Used to cut out shoe parts, these steel cutting dies look like cookie cutters. Each die is made
of sharpened rule steel coated with rust proof paint and marked with the shoe size and model
number. Making a shoe requires hundreds of dies. One die for each part, for every size of a
shoe. For high volume shoe production, the shoe factory may need many sets of cutting dies.
(Scott, 2022).

Die cutting is a more efficient and faster method for producing parts and components,
depending on the speed of stroke, the method of feeding, and the type of die cutting
machine. The cutting die marker starts with the cut paper pattern templates of the shoe
pattern. The worker will then bend the rule steel into shape using the paper pattern as a
guide. The worker uses a special bench that will help bend a metal. The bench has a foot
operated anvil that moves the tool head to make the bends. A skilled worker can make each
cutting die outline in just a few minutes. Once the outline is made, the worker will add the
shoe size marks to the edge with notches. The raw ends of the dies are then welded together.
Afterwards, any bracing bars or plates are welded on. Pins for perforations are also added to
the cutting dies. Once the die is fully assembled a worker will test it to make sure the cutting
surface is aligned flat and level. The final operations to make the shoe cutting dies include
coating it with rust proof paint and a final check to make sure the cutting edge is very sharp.
While the are many operations required to make shoe cutting dies the production is fast, the
materials and labor are relatively inexpensive. For small orders, a cutting die fee may be
charged by the shoe factory, but usually, the cost of the cutting die is accounted for the cost
of cutting dies are accounted for the LOP (labor, overhead and profit) charges. (Taylan,
2001).

3
Figure 1: Picture of military boot quarter face cutting die. (https://www.exportersindia.com).

Since it is a simple and straightforward process, die cutting is suitable for low or high-
volume manufacturing. In industrial applications, the machine may be located directly
downstream, while the starting material may be the outgoing product from a proceeding
process. The die cutting machine has many capabilities, making it versatile and useful asset.
It can perform other operation aside from cutting, such as forming, perforating, and scoring.
The process is done on a press through a single or series of strokes.

Flatbed, rotary, and semi-rotary die cutters are considered industrial-scale die cutting
machines, designed for thicker and more rigid substrates able to produce parts at a fast
turnaround. Meanwhile, manual and digital cutting die equipment are utilized to create
simple and accessory parts. Its production is relatively slower and therefore suitable for low
volume orders.

2.1 TYPES OF CUTTING DIE.

2.1.0 FLATBED DIE CUTTING.
Flatbed die cutting is a fast, efficient and cost-effective method for producing simple parts.
The process includes the use of a steel rule die that is made up of series of metal strips or
blades shaped to conform to the parameters of a desired part. The cutting die is attached to a
hydraulic or mechanical press. A board, with grooves in the shape of the part, is placed as
lower die with ejector material. The cutting action involves stacking the raw material on the
board and squeezing the die and board together. ( https://www. iqsdirectory.com).

The flatbed dies cutting method is suitable for cutting thicker sheets or multiple sheets as it
is capable of exerting a great deal of force. A variety of materials can be processed using a
flatbed die cutter, ranging from soft to semi-rigid materials with varying thickness. There

4
are several subprocess that have to be completed to produce quality finished parts using
flatbed die cutting, which is described below. (Taylan, 2001).

2.1.1 SIMPLE DIE.

In a single stroke of the press, the simple die performs only one cutting. ( https://www.
iqsdirectory.com).

2.1.2 COMPOUND DIE.

In a single stroke of the press, the compound die creates more than one cut or impression on
the web. A typical example of this die type is found in the production of a washer. With this
type of die, cutting the outline and piercing of the inner hole is done in a single stroke.

Compound dies combine steel rule components with metal ones with the steel rule
component used to cut the less detailed shapes while the metal components cut detailed and
intricate shapes. The benefit of compound dies is their ability to produce a completed blank
in one stroke. Also, compound dies are designed to remove the slug from the shape, which
helps to make the die cutting process more efficient. ( https://www. iqsdirectory.com).

2.1.3 PROGRESSIVE DIE

A progressive die is used when there are a series of cutting and secondary steps involved to
create a finished product. Each stroke creates a different cut or impression, and in between
strokes, the sheet is transferred to the next operation. This process requires precise set-up
and alignment of the stock material. The part remains in the stock material until it comes to
the last station where it is fully separated. The more operation the die performs, the more
complex design the die must have; also, the more difficult to optimize the pressure to be
used. (Altan T et al 1996).

2.1.4 COMBINATION DIE.

A combination die performs multiple cutting and forming operations (such as extruding and
bending) using a single stroke.

To achieve a good cut, the properties of the material to be processed must be considered.
Thicker and more rigid materials must require thicker dies and higher pressure. (Altan T et
al 1996).

5
2.1.5 ROTARY DIE.
Rotary die cutting machines operate in continuous production mode. It operates at a lower
cutting pressure and constant speed, which is ideal to be located directly downstream of a
preceding process. Rotary die cutting machines are used to produce simpler and lighter
parts. It is suitable for a variety of materials and gives a faster turnaround time than a flatbed
die cutter. (Altan T et al 1996).

The stock material, or referred to as web, in the form of an individual sheet or roll, passes
through the cutting assembly. The cutting assembly is composed of a rotating cylindrical die
affixed to a rotary press and an anvil cylinder pressed against the rotary press. The two
cylinders are continuously rotating in opposite directions along the horizontal axis. As the
web passes through the two cylinders, it is compressed such that the sharp edges of the die
pierces through the material. (Taylan, 2001).

A rotary die cutting machine is also capable of full and partial cutting. Like flatbed cutting
machines, the steps are the same but differ on the mechanism of the cutting assembly.

There are two types of rotary dies, depending on the properties of the material to be cut and
economics.

2.1.6 FLEXIBLE ROTARY DIE.

Flexible rotary dies are made of thin sheets of steel with engraved patterns, which contain
the edges for cutting, wrapped around a base magnetic cylinder. These dies are suitable for
low pressure and shallow or partial cutting. The cutting thin sheet can be replaced
depending on the part to be cut. The magnetic cylinder can be configured for many flexible
dies.

These types of dies are easily manufactured and less expensive. It also requires less
downtime during replacement. However, these are less durable than solid dies. (
https://www. iqsdirectory.com).

2.1.7 SOLID DIE.

A solid die has engraved, abrasive patterns on the rotating cylinder itself. This type is
intended for higher pressure applications than the flexible die. The solid engravings can
exert higher forces that enable the die to create deeper cuts on thicker and multi-layered
materials. The solid die can be sharpened once worn-out. This type of die is more durable

6
and flexible. However, it is more costly in terms of initial and maintenance costs. (
https://www. iqsdirectory.com).

When operating a rotary die cutting machine, the following operating and material
conditions are considered:

The tangential speed of the rotating cylinders and the speed of the web must be the same.
This ensures proper placement of the material between the two cylinders, resulting in
precise and uniform cuts through the entire length. ( https://www. iqsdirectory.com).

The clearance between the rotary press and anvil cylinder must be optimized according to
the thickness and compressibility of the stock material. If the clearance is too narrow, higher
cutting pressure will be applied which may cause fatigue in the machine components. On
the other hand, if the clearance is too large, the cutting pressure is not sufficient to cut the
sheet properly. (https://www. iqsdirectory.com).

The rotary dies to be selected must have a blade width and angle that is optimal for the
material to be processed. Thicker and more rigid materials require a wider and steeper blade.
(https://www. iqsdirectory.com).

2.1.8 SEMI-ROTARY DIE CUTTING.

This type of die cutting machine is almost similar to a fully rotary die cutter, except that it
only uses one cylinder, which contains the die, for cutting. The semi-rotary die cutting
equipment is programmed such that the cylinder moves in a single direction while the web
moves back and forth. The movement of both cylinder and web creates multiple cuts,
eliminating the need for another cylinder. ( https://www. iqsdirectory.com).

Semi-rotary die cutting machines are less expensive than fully rotary and flatbed die cutters.
However, it is only limited to low-pressure applications.

So far, industrial-scale die cutting machines have been discussed. The following equipment
creates simpler parts with relatively low production rate, hence considered as small-scale.(
https://www. iqsdirectory.com).

2.1.9 MANUAL DIE CUTTER.

Manual die cutters work by pushing the crank lever which forces the steel dies to the
substrate, hence cutting out the finished part. Soft materials like paper are best for this type.

7
Manual die cutting is suitable for cutting out auxiliary items. This equipment is small and
portable, typically found in homes, offices, and craft tables. ( https://www.
iqsdirectory.com).

2.1.10 DIGITAL DIE CUTTER.

A digital die cutter is a versatile cutting machine which is controlled by computer software
or cartridges. Unlike the traditional die cutters, it does not have steel dies but is equipped
with sharp blades inside the equipment. This equipment is powered by electricity. Like the
manual die cutter, digital die cutting machines can be installed indoors.

(https://www. iqsdirectory.com).

8
 CHAPTER THREE.

METHODOLOGY.

3.0 AREA OF STUDY.

This project will be conducted at Mwanza region and all activities will be conducted at DIT
Mwanza campus footwear and leather goods workshop and SIDO Mwanza.

3.1 RAW MATERIALS COLLECTION.

Steel and welding rods will be purchased at the local hardware shops around Mwanza and
they will be used for the manufacture of steel shoe cutting die.

3.2 PREPARATION OF CUTTING DIE.

3.2.1 TOOLS AND MACHINE REQUIRED.
i. Shoe last.
ii. Tape measure.
iii. Pencil.
iv. Cutting board.
v. Designing cutting knife.

3.2.2 RAW MATERIAL REQUIRED.

i. Manila paper.
ii. Masking tape.
iii. Mild steel.
iv. Welding rods.
v. Rust proof paint.

9
3.2.3.0 DESIGNING CUTTING DIE PATTERN PROCEDURES.
Materials, tools and equipment will be collected and prepared.

Cover last with masking tape, remove mask tapes which exceeds feather edge.

Draw vamp line, instep line and open throat line.

Remove masking tape from the last and attach on manila paper.

Add lasting allowance to create standard “w” pattern.

Design vamp and counter pattern.

Cut pattern add folding allowance on vamp and counter and underlay on counter.

All patterns will be labeled and all important information like last size, article, pattern for
and the name of pattern cutter.

3.2.3.1 MAKING SHOE CUTTING DIE PROCEDURES.

Materials, tools and equipment will be collected and prepared.

Take vamp patten and 2mm mild steel and start bending 2mm mild steel to follow the shape
of vamp pattern and weld the end of mild steel together.

Take counter patten and 2mm mild steel and start bending 2mm mild steel to follow the
shape of counter pattern and weld the end of mild steel together.

Insert reinforcing mild steel to increase stability and strength of shoe cutting die.

Sharpen both vamp and counter shoe cutting die.

Apply rust proof to protect dies from rust.

10
Figure 2: Standard pattern.

Figure 3: Cutting die vamp pattern.

11
 Figure 4: Counter cutting die pattern. REINFORCING STEEL
SHARP EDGE

Figure 5: Shoe vamp cutting die.

12
 REINFORCING STEEL

SHARP EDGE
Figure 6: Counter shoe cutting die.

13
3.3 ESTIMATED BUDGET.
S/NO ITEM TOTAL COST (Tsh).
1. Manila paper 2 sheet. 3,000/=
2. Masking tape 2 piece. 2,000/=
3. Mild steel (2mm thick). 40,000/=
4. Welding rods 1 pack. 10,000/=
5. Rust proof 1 liter. 10,000/=
6. Technician cost 50,000/=
Total estimated budget. 115,000/=

14
 REFERENCES.

Altan T. et al. (1996). “Numerical Process Simulation and Process Design in Bulk Metal
Forming”. London.

Britannica (n.d). https://www.britannica.com/dictionary/uniformity. Accessed on January

11,2023.

Exim Trade Data (n.d).https://eximtradedata.com/search/country-Tanzania/type-

import/product-cutting-steel-die. Accessed on February 20,2023.

Exporters India (n.d). https://www.exportersindia.com/product-detail/black-leather-shoe-

cutting-dies-5839674.htm. Accessed on January 11,2023.

Industrial quick search (n.d). https://www.iqsdirectory.com/articles/die-cutting.html.

Accessed on January 11,2023.

Scott Chambers. (2022). “Rotary Die Cutting”. Milan.

Taylan Altan. (2001). “Manufacturing Dies and Molds”. London.

15