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Wave Kinematics of Short-Crested Waves

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Proceedings of The Twelfth (2002) International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference
Kitakyushu, Japan, May 26 –31, 2002
Copyright © 2002 by The International Society of Offshore and Polar Engineers
ISBN 1-880653-58-3 (Set); ISSN 1098-6189 (Set)

Wave Kinematics of Short-Crested Waves

H.T. Teo, D.S. Jeng, D.F Cha and Y.N. Oh

School of Engineering, Griffith University
Gold Coast Campus, QLD 9726, Australia.

ABSTRACT
This paper presents a fifth-order analytical solution for the three-
dimensional fully reflected short-crested waves through a perturbation
technique. The present solution derived for short-crested waves can be
reduced to both standing waves and progressive waves (with zero and
ninety degree of incident waves). Three variables for short-crested
waves, the velocity potential (A, wave frequency (w) and wave profile
(7) are derived. Numerical results demonstrate the influences of the
higher-order components on the kinematics properties of short-crested
waves are greater especially in shallow water.
KEY WORDS: Short-crested waves, perturbation, wave kinematics,
velocity potential, wave frequency, wave profile.
INTRODUCTION
It has been discussed for a long time that standing waves, which arrives
transversely to the wall, create great scouring capacity on a sedimentary
bed in front of marine structures. As to be more realistic, when water
waves arrive obliquely to breakwater faces, a short-crested wave
system is formed in front of the breakwater. lnstead of having a
transverse wave profile, the intersecting wave crests of short-crested
waves forms a complex double-periodic diamond-shaped profile (Fig.
1). Previously, the two-dimensional wave systems (standing and
progressive waves) have been the popular topic for researchers and
little attention was available for short-crested waves due to the complex
properties short-crested waves inherent. In fact the consideration of
short-crested waves in the failure of marine structure should not be
ignored. The state of excess pore pressure and stresses within sediments
due to the short-crested waves vary from that result from the two-
dimensional wave systems. This is because the energy components
within short-crested wave fluctuate in three directions (x-, y- and z-
directions), whereas for two dimensional wave systems, the effective
components are only in X- and z-directions.
As reported in the literature, the theory for short-crested wave was
firstly developed by Fuchs (1952) who successfully derived the
solution for short-crested wave up to the second order. However, his
solution was not applicable for the limiting condition of short-crested
wave, i.e. progressive and standing waves. Chappelear (1961) later
extended Fuchs (1952) solution to third order in the similar manner
using formal power expansion with an expansion parameter
proportional to the ratio of wave height to wavelength of the short-
crested system and also precluded the derivation of the two-
dimensional wave systems. Hsu et al. (1979) introduced the wave
steepness parameter as the small perturbation parameter and
successfully derived the equation up to third order perturbation
approximation for short-crested waves. The greatest contribution of
Hsu’s solution is that it can be reduced directly to the limiting case of
short-crested waves. Hsu et nl. (1979) also conducted experiments to
verify his solution, and concluded that, kinematics of water motion and
the concomitant mass-transport require higher order theory for
accuracy. Based on the solution proposed by Hsu et al. (1979), Fenton
(1985) further investigated the wave forces and pressures on vertical
walls. Recently, an analytical solution up to third-order for partial
reflection in front of a vertical wall was derived by the author (Jeng,
2002).
Owing to the complex manipulations in using an analytical method, the
manual higher order derivations very laborious, especially for the result
on wave forces and pressures on vertical walls. Hence, numerical
approximation was adopted (Roberts and Schwartz, 1983; Tsai et al.,
1994). Among the numerical models proposed by Roberts and
Schwartz (1983), the wave profiles were expressed as a Fourier series,
which is an explicit form. This limited their numerical model not
applicable to two limiting conditions of the short-crested waves.
To overcome this shortcoming and further enhance the accuracy of the
numerical model, Tsai et al. (1994) kept the implicit form of the wave
profiles, i.e., the wave profile at any point is an unknown. Tsai et al.
(1994) also performed a detailed study on short-crested waves by
numerical scheme employing Fourier series, which preserves the wave
elevation function in an implicit form, in analogy to the exact non-
linear nature for dynamic kinematic boundary condition on the water
surface. Their model was successful to reduce the two limiting
conditions of the short-crested waves. Later, the model has been further
applied to examine the highest short-crested waves (Tsai et al., 1994).

26
Prabhakar et al. (1999) further simplified the numerical model conditions are:
proposed by Tsai and Jeng (1994) to investigate the wave pressure
variations exerted on vertical wall in a constant water depth by using
Fourier series approximation method. They concluded that the first two
terms in Fourier series approximation proposed by Tsai and Jeng v24=o (1)
(1994) is sufficient in the prediction of the wave pressure.
Bottom Boundary Condition (BBC):
Higher-orders analytical solution in closed-form is required for better
insight of a short-crested wave system, however, it is still not fully
4, =0 atz=-d (2)
available. This paper is designed to investigate the higher order
components of short-crested waves, derive a higher-order theoretical
solution in a close-form, and investigate the theoretical kinematics Wall Boundary Condition (WBC):
properties to examine the effect of higher-order components to short-
crested waves. 4, = 0 aty=O (3)

Kinematic Free Surjace Boundary Condition (KFSBC):

(4)

Dynamic Free Surface Boundary Condition (DFSBC):

w4t+o++
b,”+c,”+4,”>=o atz=)7

In Eqs. (1) - (5), I$ is velocity potential, and the velocity is defined by

G r CU,V,W) = v p , where, u, Y and w are the water particle velocities
(a) Top View in then-, y- and z-direction, respectively.

z Substituting Eq. (5) into Eq. (4), the combined free surface boundary
condition is derived.

Y 7- dbtt +2~v40(04,)+v48v +(v4)’ =o atz=v

x [ 3
0
On top of the above boundary conditions, the mean wave level is
assumed to be zero, which is,
+
d 2s 2n
I 177(~,Y;wwY = 0 (7)
0 0

To solve the current unknowns (4, q and w), the short-crested wave
should be specified. As shown in Fig. 1, let L be the wavelength of the
incident and reflected waves, and L, and LY the distance between crests
(b) Elevation
in the x and y directions respectively. Then, the components of the
wave number k may be defined as
Figure 1: Definition sketch of short-crested wave system.
ml =2nlL, =ksinB=mk
BOUNDARY VALUE PROBLEM (8)
nl =2n/Ly =kcosB=nk
Boundary value problem consists of the Laplace governing equation
and the boundary conditions. The boundary conditions for short-crested where m2+n2=1.
waves consist of linear and non-linear equations. Considering a thres
dimensional short-crested waves system, as shown in Fig 1, the The above Eqs. (1) - (6) are in dimensionless form. To simplify the
diamond-shaped crest wave patterns are generated by oblique waves representation of formulation, the non-dimensional parameters
assumed to be fully reflected from vertical wall. A wave number (k), a introduced into the. They are summaries as follows:
function of wave cycle and wavelength (L), which is taken as 2&L
represent a propagating short-crested wave, which travels a distance of
one wave length, in one wave period. This short-crested wave
propagates under the influence of gravity (8), in a fluid of constant
density @), on a smooth horizontal bed and bounded to one side by a and t^=wt, (9)
rigid vertical wall. With assumption made that fluid is incompressible,
invicid, and irrotational, the governing equation and boundary

27
where, k, and d are the wave number and depth of water respectively. + cos 3(mkx - wt)(b,, cos nky+ b34 cos 3&y)]
+ z4 [cos Z(mkx - at)(bgl cos 2nb + b,, cos 4nky + b, )
PERTURBATION APPROXIMATION
+ b,, cos 2nky cos(mkx - wt) + cos 4(mkx - cot)
Perturbation technique is employed to solve for the desired close- (b,, cos 4nh-y+ b,,) + b+, cos 2nky + b,, cos 4&y]
formed solution for short-crested waves. Perturbation is a technique to
+ ~~[cos(mk - wt)(b,, cos nky + bj, cos 3nk.y+ bS3cos Snky)
transfer non-linear solution into series of linear solutions. The variables
of short-crested waves are expressed in a power series form with small + cos3(mk- &)(bjq cow&y+ bS5cos3nky+ bS6cos5nky)
perturbation parameter;
+ co@mkx-wt)(bs, cosnky+ b,,cos3nky

q3 = &is, + &‘qs, + &3#3 -I- E4(b4 + &‘#* + .. . + b,, ~0s 5nky >I (13)
(10)
q = &V, + .z2q2 + E3V, + “4qlr + E5q15 -I- . ..
w = w,, + &WI + E2W2 + E3W, + E4W4 + . ..
6l=%/GG
+ ~‘[-$6w,~ - 6wo-8~; -
- 80~0~ 4mo&i&,
where, E is the non-dimensional small parameter of wave steepness, z
H/L. Substitute Eq. (10) into non-linear boundary conditions, Eq. (4) - 2(wo4+ m,4cl$ - 4m2 - 4irAil~ + m; + 1)
and Eq. (6) and expand them using Taylor series expansion (i.e., Eq.
(1 l)), to obtain the boundary conditions at the mean water level, i.e. + nl2(3wi7 - 2wi3 + 4300 - 4wi3m2 + 4w;3&
z=O instead of z=v.
+ n2 (3wi7 - 2w;3 + 5wo - 4w;3m2 + 4w~3,2)]

(11) -I-E4c04 (14)

The governing equations and boundary condition with different order
of the small perturbation parameter (E) can then be extracted from the
expanded up to the power of five. With the similar procedure in the
previous third order solution (Hsu et. al. 1979), the fifth order solution
in dimensional form for potential velocity, wave profile and wave
frequency are presented as follows:
4=& bo “~~~~’ cosnkysin(mb- wt)]
+ ~~[,@a + sin2(mkx - wt) (J2 cosh2k(z + d) cos2nky
+f13cash 2mk(z + d) cos 2&y)]
Due to the page limit in this paper, the coefficients, b, fiY and o, for
Eq. (12)-(14) are not presented here. However, they are available in
Teo (2001) upon request.
WAVE KINEMATICS
The purpose of this study is to examine the basic wave properties of a
short-crested wave system. These include the wave profile ($, wave
frequency (o), and wave velocity (V&. In addition to that, it is also
aimed to examine the characteristic of higher order components and its
effects on short-crested wave characteristics.
Wave Profile

+.s3[&l coshyl$(z+d)cos3nkysin(mlac-c) Wave profile is defined as the layer separates the medium of ocean and
the atmosphere. The importance of having derived the equation for
+sin 3(&.x - wt) (fi32 cash y3lk(z+ d)cosnky
wave profile is for better vision of short-crested waves in terms of its
+PT3 cash 3k(z + d) cos 3&y)] surface particle distribution.

+s4[,B400t +sin2(mkr-wt)(P41 cosh2mk(z+d) Fig. 2 illustrates the typical distribution of surface water particle in the
+pd2 cosh2k(z+d)cos2nky +,f343 cash y24k(z + d)cos4nky) y-direction for short-crested wave with wave angle (9 of 45 degree.
Various wave steepnesses (E) are considered in order to examine the
+sin4(mkx- wt)& cash y42k(z + d)cosZnky variation of wave profile in intermediate water (d/&0.25). It can be
+p45 cash 4k(z + d)cos 4nky + /746 cash 4mk (z + d))] depicted that wave crest increases with the increase of wave steepness
and flatter wave trough is formed. From the above result, higher order
+~~[sin(mkx-~t)(P51 coshylgk(z+d)cos3nky solution is known to be important.
+,& coshyl~k(z+d)cosSnky) +sin3(mk.-&)
Figs. 3 and 4 are generated to compare the solution for different orders
(fls3 coshy31k(z +d)cosnky+ ,054cosh3k(z + d)cos3nky in intermediate and shallow water conditions. For intermediate water
+,45 cash yqsk(z + d) cos 5&y) + sin S(mkx - wt) (Fig. 3), both Hsu et al. (1979) and the present newly derived fifth-
order solutions have similar wave profiles to the linear solution. Higher
(p56 cash ySlk(z + d)cos nky fP57 cash y53k(z + d)cosSnky order solutions appear to be more pronouncing in shallow water. This is
+& cash 5k(z + d)cos 5&y)] (12)
obvious at the wave trough in Fig 4 that greater variation of wave
profile especially for the fifth-order solution is observable.

kg = E [~~~nkycos(mkx - wt)]
+ E’[COS2(m/cx - wt)(b, cos 2nky + b,) + b, cos 2nQ]
f ~?[cos(mkx - mt)(b3, cos nky + 4, cos 3nky)

28
 wave frequency reduces, reduction in wavelength will take place and
result in shorter wavelength, higher and steeper wave crest. At this
stage, breaking waves are more likely to occur.

Figs. 5 and 6 are plotted with the dimensionless frequency (w/00> as a

function of wave steepness (E) for different incident wave angles and
water depth (d/L). Two limiting conditions (i.e., 8=90”, for progressive
waves and O=O”, for standing waves), shown in the figure are reduced
directly form of general expressions (Eq. 14).

For a certain angle of incidence, bifurcation occurs (i.e., O”<f3<30” for

Fig. 2: Wave profiles in y-direction in intermediate water with 0=45’.
intermediate water, d&0.25). Bifurcation occurs when wave
frequency decreases as H/L increase. The same phenomenon as well
was reported by Roberts (1983) as 21.97 degree in deep water. Similar
phenomenon for various d/L is also observed in Fig. 6. It is shown from
the figure that the bifurcation of wave frequency begins at about
d/&0.15, which is close to the previous third-order solution for
standing waves (Tadjbakhsh and Keller, 1960).

I “4
dlL = 0.25 I.“,

H/L = 0.075
e = 459 ! (a) d/L=O.25
1.0075
-

r:[, , , , ,u , , , I

0 1 2 4 5 6
SLY

in intermediate water (d/L=O.25)

Fig. 3: Wave profiles in y-direction,
with different order solutions. o.9950.““’
,-‘%‘,“,-,,I
0.05 0.1 0.15 0.2

H/L
Fig. 5: Wave Frequency for intermediate water depth with various

n\, ----- i/,

3rd-Orde,So,“fia”
(HS”
et.at.,rsrs, angles.

0.05
0.06 0 5thOrder5ol”tion
LiiearSo,“ti.m d/L = 0.05
H/L = 0.0125
e = 450
1.225 e =O”
d/L=O.O5
1.2
,175 +
1.15 +
t-125 7
d 1.1 :
3

Fig. 4: Wave profiles in y-direction, in shallow water (d/L=O.O5)with

different order solutions.

Wave Frequency
Wave frequency is the reciprocal of the wave period and represents the
number of wave passing a location in some unit of time. It is an
important parameter in the calculation of other wave properties. The
change of wavelength will influence the wave frequency. At a certain
incident wave angle and water depth, wave frequency will reduce due
to the occurrence of bifurcation at higher-order components. When
H/L
Fig. 6: Wave Frequency for standing wave with various depths.
Wave Velocities
The instantaneous water-particle velocity of Eulerian type in short-
crested waves for different wave conditions will be investigated here.
The velocities for three-dimensional wave systems consist of three

29
components, x-direction (u), y-direction (v), and z-direction (w). The predominantly for large waves in shallow water.
velocities under a short-crested wave are readily found by (2) Bifurcation is found to cause by higher order wave frequency,
differentiating the potential velocity Eq. (12) with respect to x-, y-, and resulting in the reduction in wave frequency, which in turn affects
z-direction. the wave systems, such as, steeper wave elevation, higher wave
crest and shorter wavelength.
Fig. 7 presents the result for the velocity for x-component with d/L=O.2 (3) The incident wave angles significantly affect the water particle
H/L=O.l35 and varies angles on the vertical wall o-0). The figure velocities of the short-crested waves.
clearly shows that velocity for the x-component increases when the
wave system approaches progressive waves. Velocity for x-component This paper only presents the preliminary results, for more advanced
is zero when it is zero degree (standing waves). application of the present solution such as wave pressures and forces
acting on the vertical wall, will be further investigated in the future.
The distribution of water particle velocity in the z-component with
same wave conditions (d/L=O.2 H/L=O.135) is illustrated in Fig. 8. The REFERENCES
distributions of water particle velocity in the z-direction (w) are
different from those in the x-direction (comparing Fig. 7 and 8). A Chappelear, JE. (1961). “On the description of short-crested waves”,
phase difference is observed between u and w, as shown in Fig. 7 and 8. Beach Erosion Board, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Technical
Memorandum, No. 125.
Fenton, JD. (1985). “Wave forces on vertical walls”, Journal of
0.5
Waterway,Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, AS. C. E., Vol 1 I 1,
d/L = 0.20 No 4, pp 693-7 19.
0.4
H/L = 0.135
Fuchs, RA. (1952). ‘&Onthe theory of short-crested oscillatory waves”,
0.3
Gravity Waves, U.S. National Bureau Standards, Circular 521, pp.
0.2 187-200.
Hsu, JRC., Tsuchiya, Y. and Silvester, R. (1979). “Third-order
= 0.1 approximation to short-crested waves”, Journal of Fluid Mechanics,
0
Vol90, pp 179-196.
Jeng, DS. (2002), “Wave kinematics of partial reflection from a vertical
-0.1 wall”, Ocean Engineering (OE606)
Prabhakar, V. and Sundar, V. (2000). “Standing wave pressures on
-0 2
walls”, Ocean Engineering, Vo128, pp 439-455.
0 1 2 3 4 5 6
Roberts, AJ. (1983). “Highly nonlinear shortocrested waves”. Journal
mkx-rut ofFluidMechanics, Vol 135, pp 301-321.
Roberts, AJ. and Schwartz, LW. (1983). “The calculation of nonlinear
Fig. 7: The distribution of water particle velocity in the x-direction for
short-crested gravity waves”, Physics Fluid, Vol 26, No 9, pp 2388-
various incident wave angles.
2392.
Teo, HT. (2001). Perturbation Approximation to Short-Crested Waves,
Final year thesis, Griffith University Gold Coast Campus
Tadjbakhsh, I. and Keller, JB., (1960). “Standing surface waves of
finite amplitude”, Journal Fluid Mechanics, Vol 8, pp 442-45 1.
Tsai, CP. and Jeng, DS. (1994), “Numerical Fourier solution of
standing waves in finite water depth”, Applied Ocean Research,
Vol 16, No 3, pp 185-193.
Tsai, CP., Jeng, DS. and Hsu, JRC. (1994), “Computations of the
almost highest short-crested waves in deep water”, Applied Ocean
Research, Vol 16, No 6, pp 317-326.

m kx-ca t

Fig. 8: The distribution of water particle velocity in the z-direction for

various incident wave angles.

CONCLUSIONS

In this paper, a fifth-order solution for the short-crested wave system in

front of a vertical wall is derived. With the new solution, the basic
wave kinematics, including wave profile, water particle velocities, and
wave frequency, are examined. Based on numerical results presented
above, the following conclusions can be drawn:

(1) The higher-order solution contributes to higher wave crests,

30

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