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An insider's guide to the best things to do and attractions in Bath, including visiting the Roman Baths, The
Royal Crescent and The Holburne Museum. By Fred Mawer, Telegraph Travel's Bath expert.
You can have a very pleasant time in Bath just wandering around, admiring its peerless Georgian architecture.
But the city offers much else besides, including more than a dozen museums, the Roman Baths – one of
Britain’s best presented historical attractions – and the snazzy spa.
First timers
Fascinating for visitors of all ages, with not only the Great Bath to take in (the surrounding statues are Victorian
additions), but the remains of the Temple to Sulis Minerva, hypocaust (underfloor heating) systems, more hot
and cold baths, and lots of finds. The audio guides are excellent – particularly the commentary for children.
Screens show a priest, soldier and bathers going about their business, and live actors, unwaveringly in
character, play out being merchants and stonemasons. Set aside two hours for the visit. Go early or late on
weekdays to avoid school groups, and early or late at weekends to avoid what can be lengthy queues to get in.
Built by John Wood the Younger from 1767 to 1775, when it overlooked fields, Bath’s most singularly
impressive piece of architecture is, in fact, a half-ellipse, not a crescent. Its 30 houses are now mostly divided
up into apartments – John Cleese owns one. Conjure up a reason (afternoon tea?) to pop in to The Royal
Crescent Hotel (see Hotels) for a snoop. Also have a look around No 1 Royal Crescent. Maintained by the Bath
Preservation Trust, it is furnished in period style, and a major restoration project has reunited it with its original
service wing.
The Royal Crescent is Bath's most singularly impressive piece of architecture Credit: ALAMY
Spreading over 57 acres westwards from below the Royal Crescent, Royal Victoria Park is the city’s main
green lung. Its highlights include a beautiful botanic garden and one of the biggest and best children’s
playgrounds you’ll find anywhere. It’s fun to watch hot air balloons taking off from the park on a fine
summer’s evening.
Encircling vast plane trees, the Circus is Bath’s other must-see Georgian masterpiece – note the carved motifs,
some of them Masonic, on the houses’ facades. Yards away, off Bennett Street, lies the Assembly Rooms, focal
point of Bath society in Georgian times. Restored to its former glory in the 1950s and 60s after being gutted by
bombs in World War Two, the beautifully proportioned Ballroom, Tea Room and Octagon (used for cards)
evoke Jane Austen’s Bath better than anywhere else in the city. Downstairs, the Fashion Museum has a separate
admission charge.
When it opened in 2006, the complex was years late and many millions over budget – but all that seems ancient
history now. Most visitors pay for a session in the New Royal Bath. This permits you to wallow in warm
(around 33C), natural, thermal waters in the open-air rooftop pool (particularly enjoyable on a cold, clear
evening) and the larger indoor Minerva Bath. It also gives you use of steam rooms – new Roman and Georgian-
inspired ones, plus an infrared sauna and ice chamber.
On Saturday afternoons and evenings, the New Royal Bath can be very busy (it's popular with hen parties), and
you may well may have a lengthy wait to get in; only groups of 8-12 can book a spa session, and only from
Monday to Thursday. If you want to visit during a weekend, Sunday mornings and evenings are the quietest
times to visit. Weekdays tend to be quieter still. Alternatively, have a session in the historic and much more
intimate Cross Bath, which can accommodate just 12 people. Again, you can't book, unless you are a group of
six or more or booking exclusive use. There are also spa treatments available, including Watsu, which takes
place in the thermal waters.
Old hands
In 2011, the Holburne reopened after a three-year refurbishment. Previously rather fusty, the museum now
features a striking and – for an architecturally conservative city – controversial glass and ceramic extension that
protrudes from the rear of the grand, neo-classical building into Sydney Gardens. Inside, you’ll find some fine,
beautifully displayed British 18th- and early 19th-century paintings, an eclectic collection of antique curios
accumulated in the 1800s by Bathonian Sir William Holburne, interesting exhibits and a rather good café.
The Holburne boasts British paintings, antique curios and a rather good café.
Laid out below Prior Park mansion (now a Catholic school) are National Trust grounds, in part designed by
Capability Brown and Alexander Pope. It takes about 30 minutes to walk around the woodland-flanked valley
that sweeps down to the delicate Palladian bridge and lake. You may well spot deer on the way, and the views
across Bath are sensational. Note that parking near the garden is tricky.
Prior Park has fine Georgian structures and wonderful views over Bath Credit: AP/FOTOLIA
Contact: nationaltrust.org.uk/bath-skyline
You can follow a very satisfying and immensely varied 13-mile cycle loop out of and back into Bath. The Bath
Two Tunnels Circuit leaves the city via two dramatically-lit former train tunnels that were opened for cyclists
and walkers in 2013; the Combe Down Tunnel is Britain's longest cycle tunnel. The circuit then passes through
the village of Monkton Combe, before returning to Bath along the towpath of a scenic section of the Kennet and
Avon Canal. En route are several enticing pubs, including the canalside George at Bathampton.
The circuit leaves the city via two dramatically-lit former train tunnels Credit: ALAMY
This is the best place in Bath to learn about the city's Georgian architecture. Models and maps provide a
revealing introduction to the transformation of the city in the 18th century and the design of the buildings.
Some displays focus on details easily missed when you're out wandering the streets, such as how doorways can
vary on otherwise uniform terraces, and how the backs of houses are often a visual mishmash – the ostentatious
Georgians only cared how the front facades appeared. Until June 4 2017, there's an exhibition on the Royal
Crescent to mark the 250th anniversary of its creation.
Address: The Countess of Huntingdon’s Chapel, The Paragon, The Vineyards, Bath BA1 5NA
Contact: 01225 333895; museumofbatharchitecture.org.uk
Prices: £6; over 65s, students £4.50; children 6-16 £2.50; under 6s free
Opening times: Tue-Fri 2pm-5pm, Sat, Sun 10.30am-5pm