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A Complete Merchaindiser PDF
A Complete Merchaindiser PDF
A COMPLETE
GARMENT
MERCHANDISER
ONLY FOR MBA PROFESSIONALS
Written By : DiponChanda
AAA
[Type the company name]
1/1/2018
DIPON BUFT
ABSTRACT
From the earliest weaves uncovered by archaeologists to today’s machine-produced,
scientifically advanced fabrics, textiles have had a profound influence on civilization. As
technologies change and world economics influence the direction that fashion and textiles take, it
is vital that both skills and our textile vocabulary should be kept alive.
This encyclopaedia is a definitive reference guide to all the major types of fabric in circulation
today, from abbot cloth to zibeline. In clear and engaging language, the author
( DIPON CHANDA) describes and illustrates more than 260 of the most important examples,
from classic tweeds to state-of-the-art nano fabrics.Each entry includes a brief definition,
informative notes on structure, and a list of uses. More illustrations show a fabric’s weave,
texture, and other defining characteristics at a glance, and helpful diagrams demonstrate the
structure of the most important types of textiles. The book concentrates on textiles in current use,
but it also covers obscure or obsolete terms that one might come across—and that might still
have something to teach today’s designers, manufacturers, and textile historians.Each entry is
carefully cross-referenced, and the book includes an extensive glossary and bibliography.
During apparel shipment, packing list generally includes the below information’s or
documents:
If the resin application is more on specific area that garments will tear.
If we use the same process more than one time then tear may come.
If oven time is more, tear may come.
If oven temperature is excessively high, tear m ay come.
If we used resin more, garments will hard more.
Due to using of resin, garments will be unwanted spotted.
Due to using of resin, sometimes pocket may damage.
8. What are the processes normally used in the dry process section of
garment washing?
All the important dry processes of garments washing have pointed out in
the below:
Hand sand,
Sand blasting,
Whisker,
7. What is pleat?
It is used to increase the fullness of the garments. It is generally made by
folding the fabric. Dart and pleat both are used in the back part of
the Men’s shirt usually.
8. What is inseam length?
9. What is drape?
It is a character of fabric which indicates flexibility and suppleness
of fabric.
10. What is durable press (DP)?
The name given to a special finish that provides the garments with shape
retention, durable pleats and pressed creases, durably smooth seams and
wrinkle resistance during use and after laundering or dry cleaning. Durable
press also can be added to the stretch fabrics to produce garments that
stretch yet hold their shape and their creases.
11. What is double faced fabric?
Cloth with both ends similar is termed as double faced fabric.
7. What are the key points should include in the CV for the post of
garment merchandiser?
There are some key points which must be included in the CV. Those ares-
For the fresher’s, salary normally starts from ten thousands taka which you
can change rapidly by proving yourself as a well experienced
merchandiser. It’s only possible due to your hard work.
Garments Merchandiser:
In garments trade, a merchandiser has to face various kinds of problem till
the delivery his/her order. There is no merchandiser, who can say that,
he/she has not faces any problem up to delivery. Problem solving is one of
the parts of merchandising but if a merchandiser should follow the below
working procedure accurately then 90% problem will be solved.
Fabric follow up
Now I will discuss about the very first important thing named “Fabric follow
up”. Fabric follow up contains the following issues:
Attach front pocket Attach side seam Run stitch neck band
05 D Trainee,
Any B or C grade operations.
Various key points which should be considered before marker making are
pointed out in the below:
Sewing Defects:
1. Needle damage: for example, thread drawn-off from the fabric or
making of large hole to the fabrics.
2. Skipped stitch.
3. Thread drawn-off.
4. Seam puckering.
5. Wrong stitch density.
6. Uneven stitch.
7. Staggered stitch.
8. Defected stitch.
9. Oil spot or stain.
Seaming Defects:
1. Uneven width.
2. Uneven seam line.
3. Not secured by back stitch.
4. Twisting.
5. No matching of check or stripe.
6. No matching of seam.
7. Unexpected materials are attached with the sewing.
8. Not sewn by matching face side or back side of fabrics.
9. Use of wrong stitch type.
10. Wrong shade matching of sewing thread.
Assembly Defects:
1. Defected finished components by size i.e. imperfect size and shape of
finished components.
2. Imperfect garments size.
3. Use of wrong ticket.
4. Missing of any parts or predetermined design of garments.
5. Imperfect alignment of components i.e. button, hook, and so on) in
proper place.
6. Wrong placing or creasing of interlining.
7. Looseness or tightness of interlining.
8. Folding of any parts of garments that is seen to bad appearance.
Needle Size
Fabric Type Singer System Metric (Nm)
Light 7 55
Medium 9 65
Heavy 10 75
Light 9 65
Medium 10 70
Heavy 11 75
Light 11 75
Medium 12 80
Heavy 14 90
Light 14 90
Medium 16 100
Heavy 18 110
Light 16 100
Medium 18 110
Heavy 19 120 Relationship
Light 19 120 Between Thread
Medium 21 130 Size, Needle
Heavy 22 140 Size and
Light 21 130 Materials:
Medium 22 140 The below table
Heavy 23 160 shows the
Light 23 160 relationship
Medium 24 180 between thread
size, needle size
Heavy 25 200
and material
which is too much necessary to know the accurate sewing.
Denim is one kinds of fabric name which can be Jeans is one type of garment which is made by using
02 types of garments style can be produced. Jeans is only a particular style of garments.
Denim is used not only for making pants but also for Jeans is such type of garments which is made only
1. Colored denim,
2. Bubble gum denim,
3. Denim from fox fiber,
4. Crushed denim,
5. Vintage denim,
Trimmings:
Without fabrics, the materials which are used in a garment during the
making of apparel are called trimmings. A trimming can also be a narrow
fabric used as decorative or functional edging on apparelor furnishing
fabrics. Some trimmings can be seen from the outside of garments which
are used outside the garments and some are not seen which are used
inside the garments.
Accessories:
Accessories are those materials which are not attached with the apparel. It
can be explained in other way, accessories are those materials which are
not used during manufacturing the garments, only used for finishing and
packing the garments.
List of Trimmings Required for Making Shirt:
1. Sewing thread,
2. Button,
3. Lining,
4. Interlining,
5. Motif,
6. Label i.e. main label, care label, size label, price label and
composition label.
List of Trimmings Required for Making Trouser or Pant:
1. Sewing thread,
2. Lining,
3. Button,
4. Zipper,
1. Whitework embroidery,
2. Candlewick embroidery,
3. Cross stitch embroidery,
4. Pulled thread embroidery,
5. Hedebo embroidery,
6. Drawn thread embroidery,
7. Hardanger embroidery,
8. Crewel embroidery,
9. Surface embroidery,
10. Goldwork embroidery,
11. Redwork embroidery,
12. Blackwork embroidery,
13. Bluework embroidery,
14. Sashiko embroidery.
The end product of process should full fill to achieve the desired quality
product.
The faults or defects which are found during inspection are mainly
classified into four categories:
1. Critical: Must be 100% accurate. There is no range.
2. Major: Normally 2.5%
3. Minor: Normally 4%
4. Slight: Normally 6.5%
Size 14 ½ 15 15 ½ 16 16 ½ 17 17 ½ 18
Collar (±1/4) 15 15 ½ 16 16 ½ 17 17 ½ 18 18 ½
½ Chest (±1/2) 20 ½ 21 21 21 ½ 21 ½ 22 22 23
1. Bad selvedge,
2. Broken ends or warp,
3. Broken picks or weft,
4. Loose warp,
5. Loose weft or snarl,
6. Double end,
7. Tight end,
8. Float of warp,
9. Wrong end color,
10. Miss pick,
11. Double pick,
12. Weft bar,
13. Ball,
14. Hole,
15. Oil spot,
16. Tails out,
17. Temple mark,
18. Reed mark,
19. Slub,
20. Thick and thin place.
21.
22. Comparison Between Quality Assurance (Q.A) and Quality
Control (Q.C):
1. What is load?
The application of a load to a specimen in its axial direction causes a tension to
be developed in the specimen. The load is usually expressed in gm-wt or
pounds.
Although non-woven and woven fabrics account for the majority of technical
textiles, warp knitted and to lesser extent, weft knitted structures has captured
some special end use markets. These are particulars where lerfain properties
such as drapability , open work, knitting to shape, mouldability, extensibility,
lightness of weight, strength and cost are at a premium and can be tailored for
requirements.
Application of Technical Textiles:
There are some important applications of technical textile which have pointed out
in the below:1. Geotextiles:These are polymer fabrics used in the construction of
harbor works, road drains and break waters and for land reclamation and many
other civil engineering purposes. The geo-textiles market requires bulk quantities
of material.2. Tarpaulins coverings:Air inflated structures, farpanulines,
temperature resistant sails, root coverings, back bit advertising signs.
3. Industrial textiles:
Filter fabrics, adhesrttapses and conveyor belts. 5. Medical textiles:
Gauge, plasters, artificial arteries, tapes, bandages, classier net bandages,
dialysis filters, blankets and covers.
4. Safely textiles:
Heat and flame resistant protective clothing for civil and military purposes,
inflatable life rafts, fluorescent safely clothing, and bullet proof bests, sun
protection blinds, helmets, radiation protection, oil trap mats and parachutes.
7. Nets:
Fabrics for construction, agriculture, weather and pest protection, for safety,
blinds, fences, fish nets, and storage nets.
8. Active sportswear:
Clothing and equipment.
Trimmings:
Without fabrics, the materials which are used in a garment during the making of
apparel are called trimmings. A trimming can also be a narrow fabric used as decorative
or functional edging on apparelor furnishing fabrics. Some trimmings can be seen from
the outside of garments which are used outside the garments and some are not seen
which are used inside the garments.
Accessories:
Accessories are those materials which are not attached with the apparel. It can be
explained in other way, accessories are those materials which are not used during
manufacturing the garments, only used for finishing and packing the garments.
List of Trimmings Required for Making Shirt:
1. Sewing thread,
2. Button,
3. Lining,
4. Interlining,
5. Motif,
Introduction:
Thread package is important equipment in apparel
manufacturing industry. Sewing threads are wound at parallel or cross at different
types of thread packages. As its importance, this article has presented a brief
discussion on thread package with their correct images.
1. Spool,
2. Cop,
3. Cone,
4. Vicone,
5. Container,
6. Cocoon,
7. Pre wound bobbin.
All the above thread package types have discussed in the following:
1. Spool:
Spool is a small thread package which is made by wood or plastic with flange at two
ends. Spool thread package contains 100-500meter thread at parallel wound. Spool is
used for leather, shoe or domestic purposes.
2. Cop:
Cop is small cylindrical thread package without any flange. Cop contains 1000-2500
meter thread at cross wound. Cop is used for furnishing the garments where color of
thread changes frequently.
3. Cone:
Cone is a small package which is made on plastic conical tube. It contains more than
500 meter thread at cross wind. Cone thread package is an ideal and most used
package in readymade garments sector.
4. Vicone:This type of thread package is made on parallel and little conical tube with a
lip like flange at one end. It contains 3000 meter thread or yarn at cross wind. Vicone
thread package is mostly used for smooth thread on filament such
as embroidery thread.
5. Container:Container is a large thread package used for filament thread which cannot
be controlled by others general packages.
6. Cocoon:Cocoon is a special thread package which done its job without any support.
It is used in shuttle of special quilting machine.
A trims and accessories inspector must have to follow the below duties and
responsibilities:
Mostly used yarn = 30 Count and price also given here based on 30 count
Add $0.05USD for every count above 30 and subtract $0.05USD for below 30.
For example: if $6/kgis the price of 30 count. Then price will be like below:
Knitting price:
Fabric Construction: 100% Cotton
Type of fabric Price/Kg
Single Jersey 12 Taka/Kg
1 X 1 Rib 16 Taka/Kg
Carton Consumption
(L+H)X (W+H) X 2
Total area of a carton: Square Meter.
100 X 100
Price of Cartoon
No of Ply Price
3 Ply $ 0.40/ sq. meter
5 Ply $ 0.70/ sq. meter
7 Ply $ 0.95/ sq.meter
Poly Consumption
Trims
All Labels Price:
Name of label Price
Main Labels $ 0.35/dzn
Size label $ 0.10/dzn
Wash or care label $ 0.8/dzn (paper)
Care label $ 0.20/dzn (sadin)
Origin level $ 0.5/dzn
Flag level $ 0.5/ dzn
Hang tag Price:
Name of Tag Price
Hang tag integrated (Including Price) $ 0.35/dzn
Bar code $ 0.10/dzn
CM Calculation
Exercise – 1
Total Direct and Indirect cost A= 60000
Total Number machine B= 120
Number of working day/ month = 26
A 60000
Average cost per machine T= = = 19.23
B X 26 120 X 26
Number of machine per line, C = 30
CXT 576.9
CM per pcs= = = $ 0.840/pcs
X 150 x 8
Exercise – 2
Total cost= $ 90000
No of the machine – 300
Number of working day / Month =26
Number of machine/ line =25
Working hour/ day = 08
Output / hour = 150
CM =?
A 90000
Average cost per machine per day,T= = = 11.23
B X 26 300 X 26
Cost per line= 11.54 X 25= 288.5
CXT 288.5
CM= = = $ 0.24/pcs
X 1200
Lab Test
Ser Physical test: Chemical Test
1. Dimensional Stability (Shrinkage/ Elongation Azo
Test)
2. Color fastness to water Formal De hyde
3. Color fastness to Rubbing PH
4. Color fastness to Light Phathalate
5. Spirality/ Twisting
6. Busting Strength (knit) and
7. Tearing Strength (woven)
8. Fiber composition
9. GSM/ Weight Test
Container size
20 feet – L X W X H = 228”X 84” X 94” = 29.50 CBM = 28 CBM Usable
40 feet – L X W X H = 474”X 84” X 94” = 61.33 CBM = 56 CBM Usable
40 feet(H) – L X W X H = 474”X 84” X 106” = 69.16 CBM = 63 CBM Usable
LXWXH
Kg [Measurement in CM]
6000
LXWXH
Kg [Measurement in inch]
366
Woven top formula :
1
(Body Length+Sleeve Length) X Chest or bottom x 24
2
+ Wastage % = ………
Fabric Width X 36
Yds/Dzn
Body Length = Body Length + Hem Height + Back yoke Length + Allowance
Sleeve Length = Sleeve Length + (Cuff Height X 2) + Allowance
½ Chest/ Bottom = ½ Chest/Bottom + Placket Width + Allowance
N:B Button Placket (Lower Placket) is half of the Button Hole Placket (Upper Placket)
1
Body Length X Crotch x 48
2
+ Wastage % = …………………… Yds/Dzn
Fabric Width X 36
Body Length = Inseam + Back Rise + Hem Height + (Waist Band X 2) + Allowance
= ………………….kg/Dzn
The person who is doing merchandising is Merchandiser. Now we can say merchandiser
is a person who engages himself/ herself in Sourcing, Costing, Organizing, Arranging
and Promotion sales of any commodities as per required standard. Any person
performing such work with any commodities in any sector is Merchandiser for that
sector.
Description S M L XL
Front Length From HSP 72 74 76 78
1/2 Chest Width 53 55 57 59
1/2 Bottom Width 53 55 57
55 59
57
Hem Height 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5
Back Length From HSP 72 74 76 78
Back Cross Width 43.5 44.5 48.5 46.5
Shoulder to Shoulder 46 48 5O 52
Neck Opening 18.5 19.5 20.5 21.5
Neck Drop Front 9 10 11 12
Binding/ Trimming Width 2 2 2 2
Shoulder Width 13.3 14.3 18.3 16.3
Shoulder Drop 4 4 4 4
Neck Drop Back 2 2 2 2
Sleeve Length 23 24 28 26
1/2 Armhole Straight 21.8 22.8 23.8 24.5
1/2 Sleeve Opening 19 19 19 19 1
T – Shirt Consumption
Men’s Short Sleeve Tee, Consider 10% wastage
Fabrication: 100% Cotton, S/J 180 GSM, Collar: 1x1 Rib, 95% Cotton, 5% Lycra, 240 GSM
CXT 576.9
CM per pcs= = = $ 0.840/pcs
X 150 x 8
Exercise – 2
Total cost= $ 90000, No of the machine – 300, Number of working day / Month =26
Number of machine/ line =25, Working hour/ day = 08, Output / hour = 150
CM =?
A 90000
Average cost per machine per day, T= = = 11.23
B X 26 300 X 26
Cost per line= 11.54 X 25= 288.5
Actual output per line= 150 X 8= 1200 pcs
CXT 288.5
CM = = = $ 0.24/pcs
X 1200
Cartoon Consumption
Exercise
Total Order Qty – 50,000 pcs, Qty/Cartoon – 50 pcs
Carton Size – (60 X 40 X 40) cm, Per Square Meter Price = $0.70
What will be Total Cost?
Formula ofCarton Consumption
(L+H)X (W+H) X 2
Total area of a carton = Square Meter/ Ctn
100 X 100
(60+40)X (40+40) X 2
= = 1.6 square mtr /Ctn
100 X 100
For 50 pcs we need = 1 carton, ∴For50,000 pcs we need = 50,000/ 50 = 1000 Cartoon
For 1 Ctn we need = 1.6 square mtr, ∴ For 1000 Ctn we need = 1.6 X 1000 = 1600 Square
Meter
1 Square Meter cost = $ 0.70 USD, ∴1600 Square Meter Cost = 1600 X 0.70 = $ 1120
USD
CBM Calculation
Exercise:
Total Order Qty – 10,000 Pcs
Qty/Carton – 50 Pcs
Carton Size – (60 X 40 X 40) cm
Per CBM Price - $50
Per Kg Price - $35
Good will be ship “Air”. What will total price & which metric will goods ship?
LXWXH
Kg [Measurement in CM]
6000
LXWXH
Kg [Measurement in inch]
36
60 X 40 X 40
∴Volume Metric weight = kg/Ctn
6000
LXWXH
CBM/Ctn [Measurement in CM]
100 X 100 X 100
60 X 40 X 40
= CBM/Ctn
100 X 100 X 100
= 0.096 CBM/Ctn
∴ Total CBM for 200 Ctn = 200 X 0.096 = 19.2 CBM
Total Price for 19.2 CBM = 19.2 X 50 = $ 960
Total Price for 3200 Kg = 3200 X 35 = $ 1, 12,000
Ans: Good will be shipped by weight Metric and Price will be $ 1, 12,000
Container size
20 feet – L X W X H = 228”X 84” X 94” = 29.50 CBM = 28 CBM Usable
40 feet – L X W X H = 474”X 84” X 94” = 61.33 CBM = 56 CBM Usable
40 feet(H) – L X W X H = 474”X 84” X 106” = 69.16 CBM = 63 CBM Usable
Thread Consumption
Exercise
A T-shirt have 25 inch Single Needle Lock Stich, 15 inch chain stitch, and 10 inch 3
thread overlock. How much thread need to sew the t-shirt.
For 25 inch S/N lock stitch we = 7.5 X 25 = 187.5 cm [7.5 cm for 1 inch]
need
For 15 inch Chain Stitch we need = 14 X 15 = 210 cm [14 cm for 1 inch]
For 10 inch 3 thread O/L we need = 10 X 41 = 410 cm [41cm for 1 inch ]
Total Thread we need = 807.5 cm
Consumption:
How to Calculate Carton Costing in Garment Industry?
Example:
Suppose, a 5 ply carton having length 65cm, width 45cm and height 12cm. Now
calculate Carton box costing for 400pcs carton box. (where, 5 ply board rate is $0.65
per square meter).
Solution:
Total carton-400pcs.
So,
For 400pcs carton, carton box costing will be (0.92 × 400) = $368.
Example:
Suppose, the buyer “ZARA” suggests the below information about the poly bag of a
garment export order.
Solution:
Fabric width – 60”
(Here, the given fabric width is 60”, during sewing, we cannot use the edge of a fabric.
So, all time we must exclude 1” from the given fabric width. So, now the fabric width is
60-1 = 59”)
Wastage – 10%
= 14.32yds per
dozen………………………………………………………………………………………….. (A)
So, fabric consumption for the Body Parts (Body + Chest) is 14.32yds per dozen.
(Note: 2.54 used to convert into inch from cm and 36 used to convert into yds
from inch).
2. Fabric consumption for the Sleeve:
Here, we will apply the following formula (Per dozen),
= 6.41yds per
dozen……………………………………………………………………………… (B)
= 1.50yds per
dozen……………………………………………………………………………………………
(C)
= 0.35yds per
dozen………………………………………………………………………………………. (D)
= 0.55yds per
dozen………………………………………………………………………………………………
.. (E)
= 0.67yds per
dozen………………………………………………………………………………………………
. (F)
= 2.86yds per
dozen………………………………………………………………………………………………
.. (G)
Now,
By adding A, B, C, D, E, F and G we will get the total fabric consumption per dozen for
the order. Here also, we add the fabric wastage%
Total fabric consumption with wastage% for the woven long sleeve shirt is-
= {(A + B + C + D + E + F + G) + Wastage %}
= {(14.32 + 6.41 + 1.50 + 0.35 + 0.55 + 0.67 + 2.86) + 10%}
= (26.66 + 10%) per dozen.
= 29.33yds per dozen.
Now,
By adding all the following costs with fabric cost, we will get the total FOB cost of
garments per dozen.
So,
So, in this situation, total FOB cost per dozen stands at-
= $139.86 per dozen + 10% commission
= $153.85 per dozen.
In factory garments costing, profit% for the factory (here-15%) should be added with
total FOB cost per dozen.
So,
Example:
Suppose,
The Buyer “Metro-Tex” forwards a “Woven Denim Bottom” item order to you with the
following specification.
Solution:
Fabric width – 58”
(Here, the given fabric width is 58”, during sewing, we cannot use the edge of a fabric.
So, all time we must exclude 1” from the given fabric width. So, now the fabric width is
58-1 = 57”)
Wastage – 10%
Now,
Body Width,
= 1/2 Thigh with sewing allowance
= 22
So, fabrics needed for the body parts is 24.70yds per dozen.
So, fabrics needed for the back pocket is 1.68yds per dozen.
So, fabrics needed for the pocket bag is 3.37yds per dozen.
So, fabrics needed for the belt loop is 0.12yds per dozen.
Now,
So, total fabric consumption for the above order is 29.87yds per dozen.
As, fabric cost per yds is $3.70 then, total fabric cost per dozen is (29.87yds × $3.70) =
$110.52
Now,
So,
So, in this situation, total FOB cost per dozen stands at-
= $147.22 per dozen + 7% commission
= $157.53 per dozen.
In factory costing, profit% for the factory (here-10%) should be added with total FOB
cost per dozen.
So,
The buyer “CK” forwards a knitted polo shirt item order (20000pcs) to you with the
following specification.
1. 100% cotton single jersey fabric for body parts (Body + Sleeve), Half-moon and
Pocket. Where fabric GSM is 180.
2. 1 × 1 Rib fabric for collar and Cuff. Where the fabric GSM is 225.
3. Print on front part.
4. Embroidery on sleeve,
Follow the below measurement sheet.
Actual Measurement
length Allowance with Allowance
Body length 67cm 6cm 73cm
Sleeve length 19cm 6cm 25cm
½ Chest width 53cm 6cm 59cm
Collar length 38cm 0cm 38cm
Collar width 6cm 3cm 9cm
Cuff length 21cm 4cm 25cm
Cuff width 3cm 2cm 5cm
Pocket length 12cm 3cm 15cm
Pocket width 9cm 3cm 12cm
Half-moon length 13cm 3cm 16cm
Half-moon width 8cm 3cm 11cm
Now, calculate the garments costing (On FOB) for the above order.
Solution:
Fabric GSM- 180 for cotton single jersey,
Fabric GSM- 225 for 1 × 1 Rib fabric.
Let,
Now, we have to determine the fabric consumption for the above order.
Fabric Consumption:
1. Fabric consumption for Body parts (Body +Sleeve):
So, fabric consumption for Body parts (Body +Sleeve) is 2.50kg per dozen.
Now, total amount of cotton single jersey fabric needed for this order is (per
dozen),
= [{Fabric consumption for Body parts (Body +Sleeve) + Fabric consumption for Pocket
+ Fabric consumption for Half- moon} + wastage (10%)]
= {(2.50 + 0.04 + 0.04) kg + 10%}
= 2.58kg + 10%
= 2.84kg per dozen.
So, cotton single jersey Grey fabrics needed per dozen 2.84kg.
And,
Total amount of (1 × 1) Rib fabric needed for this order is (per dozen),
= {(Fabric consumption for Collar + Fabric consumption for Cuff) + wastage (10%)}
= {(0.10 + 0.07) kg + 10%}
= (0.17kg + 10%)
= 0.19kg per dozen.
So, 1 × 1 Rib Grey fabrics needed per dozen 0.19kg.
As yarn price per kg is $4.00 then, total grey fabrics cost per dozen is (3.03kg × $4.00)
= $12.12
So,
Here,
By adding A, B, C, D, E, F and G, we will achieve the total FOB cost of garments per
dozen for the above order.
In buying house costing, profit% for the buying house (here-20%) should be added with
total FOB cost per dozen.
So, in this situation, total FOB cost per dozen with profit% stands at-
=$41.07 + 20% commission
= $49.28 per dozen.
Now, total FOB cost per pcs is ($49.28 / 12) = $4.11
So, Buying House costing (FOB) per pcs garment of the above order is $4.11
1. 100% cotton single jersey fabric for body parts (Body + Sleeve), Half-moon and
Pocket. Where fabric GSM is 170.
2. 1 × 1 Rib fabric for collar and Cuff. Where the fabric GSM is 220.
Follow the below measurement chart.
3. Print on Pocket.
4. Embroidery on Back part.
Follow the below measurement sheet.
Measurement with
Actual length Allowance Allowance
Body length 65cm 6cm 71cm
Sleeve length 18cm 6cm 24cm
½ Chest width 50cm 6cm 56cm
Collar length 36cm 0cm 36cm
Collar width 7cm 3cm 10cm
Cuff length 20cm 4cm 24cm
Cuff width 3cm 2cm 5cm
Pocket length 11cm 3cm 15cm
Pocket width 8cm 3cm 11cm
Half-moon length 14cm 3cm 17cm
Half-moon width 7cm 3cm 10cm
Now, determine the garments costing (On FOB) for the above order.
Solution:
Fabric GSM- 170 for cotton single jersey,
Fabric GSM- 220 for 1 × 1 Rib fabric.
Let,
Yarn Price per kg- $3.90
Knitting and Washing Cost per kg- $1.50
Dyeing Cost per kg- $2.10
Printing Cost per dozen- $3.90
Embroidery Cost per dozen- $6.00
Accessories Cost per dozen- $2.00
Now, we have to calculate the fabric consumption for the above order.
Fabric Consumption:
1. Fabric consumption for Body parts (Body +Sleeve):
Here, we will follow the following formula (per dozen),
Now, total amount of cotton single jersey fabric needed for this order is (per
dozen),
= [{Fabric consumption for Body parts (Body +Sleeve) + Fabric consumption for Pocket
+ Fabric consumption for Half- moon} + wastage (10%)]
= {(2.17 + 0.03 + 0.03) kg + 10%}
= 2.23kg + 10%
= 2.45kg per dozen.
So, cotton single jersey Grey fabrics needed per dozen 2.45kg.
And,
Total amount of (1 × 1) Rib fabric needed for this order is (per dozen),
= {(Fabric consumption for Collar + Fabric consumption for Cuff) + wastage (10%)}
= {(0.10 + 0.06) kg + 10%}
= (0.16kg + 10%)
= 0.18kg per dozen.
So, 1 × 1 Rib Grey fabrics needed per dozen 0.18kg.
Here,
By adding A, B, C, D, E, F and G, we will get the total FOB cost of garments per dozen
for the above order.
Normally, in case of factor costing, it should be think that, as we have received the order
from a buying house (Here, we got the order from Ha-meem Group’s Buying House), so
we have to pay 8%commission to them for that order.
So, in this condition, total FOB cost per dozen stands at-
= $37.43 per dozen + 8% commission
= $40.42 per dozen.
In factory costing, profit% for the factory (here-10%) should be added with total FOB
cost per dozen.
So,
Total FOB cost per dozen with profit% stands at ($40.42 + 10%) = $44.46
Now, total FOB cost per pcs is ($44.46 / 12) = $3.71So, factory cost (FOB) per pcs
garment of the above order is $3.71
1. Fabrication,
2. Size specification,
3. Fabric consumption,
4. Fabric color,
5. CM (Cost of making),
6. Trimmings and Accessories,
7. Print,
8. Embroidery,
9. Wash,
10. Order quantity,
11. Test requirement,
12. Inspection,
13. GSP,
14. L/C payment term,
15. Commercial cost,
16. Profit,
17. Shipment date.
1. Fabrication:
Before providing costing of an order to the buyer, a garments merchandiser must take
clear idea regarding the fabrication from the buyer. In case of woven garments
fabrication it can be 10%cotton denim, 2/1 RHT twill, Stretch denim etc and in case of
Knit garments it can be Jersey, Piquet etc.
2. Size specification:
It’s an important point for garments costing. After receiving an order, a garments
merchandiser must confirm the correct size specification given by the buyer with order.
Occasionally it’s seen that, PO sheet has come with different size which was not during
the costing.
3. Fabric consumption:
Fabric consumption is another one which has so much importance on garment costing.
Here, a garments merchandiser must count all the required fabrics needed for making
that garment such as- Body fabric, Rib, Neck tape, Appliqué and others fabric with
wastage.
5. CM (Cost of making):
CM or cost of making must be fixed after discussing with production department. It
varies depends on required machine quantity and output quantity.
7. Print:
If the garments have print, then a garment merchandiser must follow the clear art work
of that, also confirm about the mentioned print quality and dimension. It will help the
merchandiser to make accurate costing.
8. Embroidery:
If the garments have embroidery then a garment merchandiser must confirm correct
price quotation after discussing with suppliers.
9. Wash:
It’s another important one for garments costing. In running garments business,
maximum garments have wash process. So, here a garment merchandiser must
confirm correct wash price after discussing with wash factory.
13. GSP:
GSP is an important factor which affects in garments costing. A garments merchandiser
must confirm about GSP by discussing with the buyer that buyer has needed the GSP
or not.
16. Profit:
Normally in case of buying house, profit added 20% of CM (Cost of making) cost.
Example:
Suppose,
H.N apparels has received an order of basic T-Shirt item.
Where,
H.N apparels total expenditure per month-30,00,000 taka
Total number of machines in the factory-100
Total number of machines required to complete an item-25
Targeted production per hour from the existing layout-180
Total working day per month-26
Total working hours per day-08
So, the cost of making (CM) per dozen basic T-Shirt is $3.08
GSM 290
Size L
Accessories
(Trimmings+ Packing + Embellishment) cost per dozen
Sewing
Thread 1.10
Eyelet –
Elastic –
Drawstring –
Embroidery 3.00
Print 3.00
Washing 48.00
Button 1.50
Zipper 0.60
Hanger –
Commercial cost 4% of total (Fabric + Accessories+ Lab test) cost per dozen 5.20
Example:
Suppose,
The buyer “CK” forwards a sweater order to you by mentioning the following terms:
Solution:
Let,
Now,
Yarn costing per dozen garments:
As garments weight is 195gm for 1pc then for 1dozen garments, yarn needed (195 ×
12)
= 2340gm
So, yarn cost per dozen stands at- $(5.00 × 5.68) = $28.38
By adding all the following costs with total yarn cost, we will get the total FOB
cost of garments per dozen.
Yarn cost per dozen …………………………… $28.38 ……………………. (A)
Printing Cost per dozen ………………………..$1.50 …………………… (B)
Embroidery Cost per dozen ……………… $1.50 ……………………. (C)
Accessories Cost per dozen …………………..$4.00 …………………… (D)
Washing cost per dozen ……………………… $4.00……………………… (E)
Cost of making (CM)……………………..….$25.00 ………………….. (F)
Commercial cost …………………………….…. $1.00 ………………. (G)
Others cost …………………………………………$0.50 …………….. (H)
So,
Total FOB cost per dozen = (A + B + C + D + E+ F + G + H)
= $ (28.38+ 1.50+ 1.50+ 4.00+ 4.00+ 25.00+ 1.00+ 0.50)
= $65.88 per dozen.
In buying house costing, profit% for the buying house (here-20%) should be added with
total FOB cost per dozen.
So,
Total FOB cost per dozen with profit% stands at ($65.88 + 20%) = $79.10
So, in the view of buying house costing (FOB) per pcs garment is $6.56
Example:
Suppose,
The buyer “world Fashion” forwards a sweater order to you by mentioning the following
terms:
Let,
So, in this situation, total FOB cost per dozen stands at-
= $73.70 per dozen + 7% commission
= $78.86 per dozen.
In case of factory costing, profit% for the factory (here-10%) should be added with total
FOB cost per dozen.
So,
Total FOB cost per dozen with profit% stands at ($78.86 + 10%) = $86.75
Now, total FOB cost per pcs is ($86.75 / 12) = $7.23
So, factory cost (FOB) per pcs garment is $7.23
Solution:
Given that,
As yarn price per kg is $3.20 then, grey fabric cost per dozen is (4.72kg × $3.20) =
$15.104
After adding all the fabric processing cost (Knitting+ Washing Cost, Dyeing Cost) with
grey fabrics cost, actual fabric cost will be determined.
So,
Actual fabric cost = Total Grey fabric cost + [{(knitting cost + washing cost) + dyeing
cost} × 4.72kg] per dozen
= $15.104 + {($1.00 + $1.70) × 4.72} per dozen
= $27.848 per dozen.
So, actual fabric cost per dozen is………. $27.848 ………………….. (A)
Printing Cost per dozen……………………… $4.00 ……………………. (B)
Accessories Cost per dozen……………….…$ 1.60 ……………….…… (C)
Cost of making (CM)……………………………. $5.00 …………………… (D)
Commercial cost …………………………………. $0.60 ……………………. (E)
Others cost …………………………………………. $0.20 …………………… (F)
So, in this situation, total FOB cost per dozen stands at-
= $39.248 per dozen + 8% commission
= $42.39 per dozen.
In factory costing, profit% for the factory (here-12%) should be added with total FOB
cost per dozen.
So,
Total FOB cost per dozen with profit% stands at ($42.39 + 12%) = $47.48
Now, total FOB cost per pcs is ($47.48 / 12) = $3.96
So, factory cost (FOB) per pcs garment is $3.96
Example:Suppose,
A woven fabric construction is like that-
Solution:
From the given fabric construction we can see that,
Warp count- 50
Weft count- 40
EPI (Ends per inch) – 130
PPI (Picks per inch) – 60
Warp crimp factor- 1.2
Weft crimp factor- 1.0
Now, by applying all the data in the required formula, we can easily find out the above
woven fabric GSM.
Example:
Suppose,
5 pcs cutting swatches weights are 1.2gm, 1.4gm, 1.3gm, 1.1gm and 1.5gm
respectively.
Now,
= 1.3gm
In this situation, we have to multiply average cutting swatch weight by 100 to get actual
fabric GSM.
So,
Example-01:
Suppose,
Gross weight or actual weight is 200kg,
Solution:
Now,
We calculate the Cargo CBM = Length (m) ×weight (m) × height (m)
= (1 × 1 × 1) m3
= 1m3
Now, cargo CBM has to divide by 0.006,
Example-02:
Suppose,
Gross weight or actual weight is 140kg,
Solution:
Now,
We calculate the Cargo CBM = Length (m) ×weight (m) × height (m)
= (0.98 × 0.95 × 0.96) m3
= 0.89376 m3
Now, cargo CBM has to divide by 0.006,
Solution:
Carton length = 22” = (22 × 2.54) cm = 55.88cm = (55.88/100) m = 0.5588m.
Carton width = 15” = (15 × 2.54) cm = 38.1cm = (38.1/100) m = 0.381m.
Carton height = 6” = (6 × 2.54) cm = 15.24 cm = (15.24/100) m =0.1524m.
Now by applying formula number (1), we have-
CBM calculation for 1 carton = Length (m) × width (m) × height (m)
= (0.5588 × 0.381 × 0.1524) m3
= 0.03244639 m3
Now finally applying formula number (2), we have-
CBM calculation for total cartoon = CBM calculation for 1 carton × total number of
carton quantity
= (0.03244639 × 5000) m3
=162.23195 m3
So, CBM calculation for 5000 carton is 162.23195 m.
Spelling mistake X
IN DC Date wrong X
The following defects or faults are top most critical defects with “ ZERO
TOLERANCE” which must be followed in trimmings and
accessories inspection process.
Fabric Composition X
Size X
Inspection Defect Check List for Apparel Accessories and Trimmings:
Woven fault X
Measurement Error X
Button / Rivet
Defect Classification Critical Major Minor
Broken button X
Poor Thickness X
Missing Logo X
Missing hole X
Measurement Error X
Zipper
Defect Classification Critical Major Minor
Woven fault X
Stopper missing X
Loose stopper X
Logo missing X
Style mismatch X
Measurement Error X
Shade variation X
Size mistake X
Logo missing X
Measurement Error X
Poor thickness X
Price Ticket
Color bleeding X
Twill Tape
Defect Classification Critical
Missing yarn
Missing yarn X
Poor thickness X
Denier error X
Measurement Error X
Knot
Velcro Tape
Defect Classification Critical Major Minor
Measurement Error X
Measurement Error X
Letter missing X
Color bleeding X
Information:
1. Yarn Price US$ 5.80/KG
2. Lycra US$ 20/KG
3. DTM sewing thread 150 Mtr/Pc, 100% Spun Poly 50/2, 4000 Mtr/Cone, Price US$ 1.3/cone.
4. Woven Main Label US$ 0.20/Dz
5. Woven Size Label US$ 0.10/Dz
6. Wash Care Label US$ 0.08/Dz
7. Individual Poly Bag 10mm 28x38 cm, US$ 0.60/ Dz
8. Tissue Paper US$ 0.07/Dz
9. Chest print in 4 colors, rubber, 38x24 cm, US$ 5/Dz.
10. Solid color size packing 80pcs/carton. Carton size 80x60x40 cm, 7ply carton. US$ 0.90/SQM.
11. Knitting for S/J US$ 0.15/KG, Lycra Rib US$ 0.30/KG, R/Dyeing US$ 1.4/KG, Finishing
average color USD 1.4/KG
12. Test Required-C/F to Washing, Shrinkage, Spirality, Pilling, Bursting Strength. Each Test
cost US$ 30.
13. Shipment will be done in FCL basis.
14. Sea freight US$60/CBM.
15. Other packing materials US$ 0.15/Dz
16. Commercial charges 3% on FOB.
Requirements:
1. Do yarn booking considering 15% process loss for both S/J & Lycra Rib.
2. Prepare Fabric requirement/indent as per required Dia including 10% wastage.
3. Prepare A trim sheet considering 10% wastage except Carton.
4. Calculate CM based on factory cost US$ 80,000/Month for 250 m/c. Hourly output 120 pcs
using 25 M/C. Working day/month 26 and working hour/day 8.
5. Prepare a packing list
6. Calculate CFR price/Dz.
INDUSTRIAL ENGNEERING
Importance of Work Study in Clothing Industry
It is a scientific method which ensures measurement of work content of a job and takes
recourse to better method of doing it and thus realizes the best utilization of human,
machinery and other resources of an organization.
1. What is load?
The application of a load to a specimen in its axial direction causes a tension to be
developed in the specimen. The load is usually expressed in gm-wt or pounds.
3. What is strain?
The ratio of elongation to initial length of a specimen is termed as strain.
1. What is CM?
CM stands at cost of making or cutting and making.
2. What is FOB?
FOB means Freight on board.
3. What is C&F?
C&F means cost and freight or clearing and forwarding.
4. What is CIF?
CIF includes cost, insurance and freight.
5. What is CIFI?
In case of shipping terms, CIFI includes cost, insurance, freight and interest.
6. What is CIFE?
CIFE means cost, insurance, freight and exchange.
8. What is CWO?
CWO means cash with order.
9. What is FOW?
FOW stands at free on wagon.
There are some problems which are frequently happened during bleaching process:
If the water percentage is low that time crease mark will come.
If bleach percentage is more, garments will loose the color very quickly.
If the machine will not running at the time of bleach added, bleach spot will come
there.
If the machine RPM is high then garments shade will be uneven.
7. Mention some problems that happened for resin application in garment
washing.
Those problems are mentioned in the below:
If the resin application is more on specific area that garments will tear.
If we use the same process more than one time then tear may come.
P.P spray
↓
Garments loading into the machine
↓
De-sizing
↓
Rinsing (Two times)
↓
P.P neutralization
↓
Softening
↓
Hydro
↓
Drying
Garments unloading from the After completing all the above processes, finally garments are
07 machine unloaded from the machine.
Garments are dried here by using gas dryer or steam dryer. Gas
dryer is used for reddish shade garments and steam dryer is used
09 Drying for bluish shade garments.
1. Starch materials present in the new fabrics of the new garments, which can be
removed by garments washing. As a result its feels soft during using the
garments.
2. After applying garments washing, garments soft feeling can be increased more.
3. Spots and dirt’s are removed from the garments by applying garments washing.
4. Unwashed garments contain too much shrinkage, but there’s no possibility of
further shrinkage after garments washing.
5. Washed garments could be wearing directly after purchasing from the store.
6. Fading effect is produced in the garments by applying garment washing which
enhance the beauty of garments.
1. Number of Operations:
Number of operations is an important factor for calculating standard allowed minutes
(SAM). If number of operations of an item is more, then standard allowed minuets
(SAM) will be higher number. Standard allowed minutes (SAM) for polo shirt is not
similar as basic T-shirt.
3. Type of fabrics:
Fabric types is one of the most important key factor which directly affects on standard
allowed minuets (SAM). Standard allowed minuets (SAM) for denim fabrics is not similar
as knitted fabrics. In case of denim fabrics, standard allowed minuets (SAM) is more
than knitted items.
4. Stitching accuracy:
Stitching accuracy is another one which has huge impact on standard allowed minuets
(SAM). Standard allowed minuets (SAM) is not same for all types of stitching accuracy.
In case of hand stitching accuracy, standard allowed minuets (SAM) will more than
chain stitching.
5. Sewing technology:
Sometimes sewing technology affects on standard allowed minuets (SAM). Due to
using of new sewing technology, standard allowed minuets (SAM) can be increased.
Because, sewing operators are not habitual with new sewing technology. As a result,
he takes more times to complete the processes.
How to Grade Sewing Machine Operators?
It’s another sewing operator grading system followed in readymade garments sector.
Here, sewing operators are categorized according to the number of operations
performed by a sewing operator from the A, B and C grade operations. It also shows the
efficiency level of a sewing operator. Grading table has presented in the below:
SL
05 D Trainee,
Any B or C grade operations.
Example:
Suppose, for a lock stitch sewing machine, machine RPM is 1500. How much time
needed to sew a 40” super imposed seam, where stitch per inch (SPI) is 10?
Solution:
Here,
Now,
= 16sec.
So, machine cycle time or sewing time is 16sec.
Note: During 16sec sewing time, no machine stopping occurred and this time is
calculated by ignoring all the other factors.
How to Calculate Minute Cost of Sewing Line in Apparel Industry?
Example for the formula number-01:
Suppose, in Nishat garments ltd. total salary of sewing line for one day is 10000taka,
no. of manpower’s for 20 machines is 30 and line efficiency is 50%, then calculate cost
per minute in 8 working hours of each sewing line for that garments.
Solution:
Here,
Now,
= 1.39 taka
So, cost per minute for each sewing line of nishat garments is 1.39 taka.
Example for the formula number-02:
Suppose, in Abonty fashion ltd. actual salary per day of all the operators and helpers is
15000, total garments produced per day is 400, where standard allowed minutes (SAM)
for the garments is 20. Then calculate cost per minute of each sewing line for that
garments.
Solution:
Here,
Actual salary per day of all the operators and helpers = 15000,
Total no. of garments produced = 400,
Standard Allowed Minutes (SAM) for the garments = 20
Now,
= 1.875 taka
So, Cost per minute of sewing line is 1.875 taka.
Find out the sewing lines capacity for the above factory.
Here,
So, P.T.O
Sewing line capacity (In pcs),
= 328.32
=328pcs
So, sewing line’s capacity per day for the above factory is 328pcs
Example:
Suppose, Noman Fashion Ltd. has 10 sewing lines, each sewing line has 20 machines.
They have to produce basic knitted polo shirt items at 8hrs working day, (where
machine-hr capacity is 1600hrs and line efficiency is 60%).
Here,
So,
= 2880pcs
So, garments production capacity of the above factory is 2880pcs per day.
Example:
Let,
For a polo shirt garment,
Solution:
Now, applying the above information in equation (2), we have-
Per day production (pc),
= 336 × 60%
= 201pcs
So, Estimation of polo shirt garments production per day is 201pcs.
Solution:
Here,
So,
Machine capacity,
= No. of sewing line in that factory × No. of machines in each sewing line ×
Working hours per day
= 10 × 20 × 8
= 1600hrs.
1. Top management,
2. Yarn department,
3. Knitting department,
4. Dyeing and washing department,
5. Garments merchandising department,
6. Commercial department,
7. Cutting department,
8. Stitching department,
9. Finishing and packaging department.
Now, estimate the lines efficiency for the mentioned garment production.
Solution:
Here,
Production output from the line- 300pcs
Standard allowed minutes (SAM) for Sweet shirt garments – 45
Total number of operators in the line – 40
Total working hours – 8hrs
Now, by using the following formula, industrial engineer can estimate easily the line’s
efficiency of the mentioned garment production.
= 70.3%
So, lines efficiency of the mentioned sweet shirt garments production stands at 70.3%
Now, industrial engineer should list down all the activities of operator in sequentially and
refer the synthetic data for TMU (time measuring unit) values. Suppose, industrial
engineer got TMU value for that operation is 450. Now he should convert total TMU into
minutes, where (1TMU= 0.0006 minute). So for 450TMU= (450 × 0.0006) = 0.27minute.
This minute is termed as Basic time.
Method-02:
In this case, SAM or SMV Calculation can be done by using time study.
Here, industrial engineer should take a stop watch and stands near the m/c operator.
Capture cycle time for that operation (that he chosen early). Cycle time means “total
time needed to complete full operation”. He should be done this process consecutively
Solution:
Here,
So, by putting all the information in the blow formula, an industrial engineer can
estimate or calculate the operator efficiency.
= 50%
So, operator efficiency stands at 50%.
Ans. Clothing is one of the three basic needs of human being. Clothing is used for
covering human body or other bodies to fulfill or satisfy the requirements of those
bodies with the object of protection, decoration and identification.
2. What is Garment?
Ans: A garment is a piece of clothing.
3. What is apparel?
Ans: Clothes of a particular type when they are being sold in a shop. Apparel can
also include things like name tags, jewelry or other stuff you wear.
7. What is a pattern?
Ans. It is the model of all components of garments on a hard paper board.
Sewing allowance
Trimming allowance
CBL
CFL
Button attaching position
Button holing position
Plate etc.
10. What is invoice?
Ans. It is one kind of documents which contains the information’s about selling
items. Normally there are two types of invoice-
Sewable interlining,
Fusible interlining.
21. What do you mean by lining?
Ans. A layer of fabric which is used in the inner side of garments to increase the
comfort-ability of the garments which is called lining.e.g. suits, coats, ladies and
babies wear.
40. Fabric width and length must be higher than the marker width and
length? (yes/no)
41. Grain line should be parallel to the warp direction in a woven fabric or the
Wales in a knittedfabric? (true/false)
Ans. True
43. The less the fabric wastage, the higher the marker efficiency?(true/false)
Ans. True.
44. The more the marker length, the higher the marker efficiency?
(True/false)
Ans. True.
Casual tops,
Narrow neck line,
Usually short sleeve,
No collar
47. Write down the feature of polo shirt?
Ans. (I) Tops, (II) short/long sleeve,(III) collar,(IV) short button placket or neck
opening.
Scissor
Round knife
Band knife
Straight knife
Die cutting
Notcher & -Drill
(B) Computerized method
60. For symmetrical fabric marker efficiency is high and less efficiency for
asymmetrical fabric? (True/false)
Ans. True.
61. The more large patterns and less small patterns reduce marker efficiency?
(True/false)
Ans. True.
62. For more small patterns, marker efficiency will be increased? (True/false)
Ans. True.
Manual,
Computerized.
66. What are the wastage of marker?
Ans.
Needle
Seam pucker
Broken or open stitch
Staggered stitch
Slipped or skipped stitch
Vertical stitch density.
71. What do you mean by seam puckering?
Ans. Stitching with unwanted gathering.
Main label,
Size label,
Care label.
The all other of label are called sub label.
Ans. True.
Chemical action.
Mechanical action
Biological action.
83. How many types of mechanical abrasion in garments washing?
Ans. Three types –
Regular(Bleach wash)
Irregular(Acid wash)
Local(p.p.spray, p.p.sponge)
85. What is the factor depends on action of washing?
Ans.
Time
Temperature
Mechanical abrasion
Chemical action
86. What do you mean by costing and pricing/?
Ans.
a) Nylon b) urena
c) arnol d) rayon
a) Delaine b) merino
c) rambouillet d) lincoln
a) alpaca b) mohair
c) cashmere d) angora
c) 4% d) 5%
a) cotton b) silk
c) rayon d) wool
a) Reeling b) throwing
c) Spinning d) degumming
a) pectin b) gluten
c) moderate d) poor
a) alkalies b) acids
a) sericine b) alanine
c) tyrosine d) fiborin
a) rayon b) acetate
c) nytril d) vinyon
119. Azlons gave off disagreeable odor when wet because were made out of
c) Peanut d) corn
a) Amide b) nitrogen
c) Oxygen d) carbon
a) Nylon 6, 6 b) nylon 6
a) Jeans b) suit
c) Suits d) pants
c) Suits d) wools
126. ‘London fog’ in the example of the brand name for .............
128. ..................... is the copy or near copy of a design under a different brand
name
c) Knockoffs d) counterfeit
c) Licensing d) knockoff
130. This type of labeling suggest to consumers the suitability of a garment for
their body dimensions
131. This is a key factor in the production, marketing, buying and selling of
RTW apparel
135. .................. is a comparable term for high quality, custom made men’s
suits, usually from London
136. .................. is the inter face between an organization and its customers
137. ............... that support the choices of style direction, color, fabric and
pattern also be presented.
a) sloper b) sourcing
138. ............. is the process of estimating and then determining the total cost of
producing garment.
a) Merchandising b) manufacturing
c) Costing d) marketing
140. ................ refers to how well the garment confirms to the three -
dimensional human body.
a) Quality b) fitting
c) Inspection d) customer
142. Black lines and spaces read by a laser beam; used to electronically
identity a product
c) Bagging d) bespoke
a) Bedding b) barcode
148. Seam made by using fabric binding strips to encase raw edges
149. Stiff plastic strips sewn to garment seams to add shape and support
a) Boning b) canvas
c) Alpaca d) canvas
a) vibgyor b) hue
c) Chroma d) magenta
155. Performance advantage that results from the garments physical features
a) Boning b) casing
c) Cord d) braid
158. Seam that has split apart because the stitches have broken
159. Style that takes decades to move through the whole fashion cycle
a) Classic b) modern
c) Traditional d) formal
a) Awl b) bodkin
164. A cuff that is cut doubles the width of a standard cuff, exposing the
facing
165. A cuff that has one end projecting from the placket edge
166. Three or four hand stitches in the same spot to hold two pieces of fabrics
together.
a) Mitering b) lining
167. Suits, tuxedos, over coat, top coat and separate trousers for business and
a) Sweaters b) pant
170. Scarves, gloves, jewelry such as cuff links and eyewear come under the
title or
a) Nylon 6 b) nylon 6, 6
c) Nylon 12 d) nylon 3
172. The formation of tiny balls of fiber on the surface of the cloth is
a) Filing b) balling
a) Nylon b) ardil
c) Kevlar d) vinyl
174. Nomex is a
a) Nylon b) ardil
c) Aramid d) vinyon
a) Nylon b) aramid
c) vinyon d) polyester
176. Polyester, which does not undergo the process tend to shrink at elevated
temperatures
a) Mercerized b) texturized
c) Silk d) jute
a) Glass b) asbestos
a) Asbestos b) cotton
a) Silica b) limestone
182. The process by which either solid colors or prints can be applied to the
glass fibers is
a) Dyeing b) printing
c) coronizing d) painting
183. Which of the following is a matrix fibre composed of 50% poly vinyl
chloride and 50% polyvinyl alcohol?
a) 90 b) 95
c) 97 d) 99
185. The ....................fibres are black in colour and have a silky sheen
a) glass b) carbon
c) asbestos d) arnel
a) orlon B) rayon
c) Cotton d) silk
189. The two adjacent silk filament fibers extruded from the silk worm are
190. A process by which natural fibers are sorted, separated and partially
aligned
a) combing b) grading
c) ginning d) carding
a) Combing b) grading
c) Ginning d) carding
192. Cotton fibers that are too short for yarn or fabric manufacturing
a) Tow b) lint
c) Linters d) fibers
a) Sisal b) jute
c) Sunny d) kapok
194. Short ends of silk fibers used in making rough, textured spun yarns or
blends often termed as waste silk is
a) tetlon b) tetran
c) teflon d) tetraiene
c) tow d) thread
197. Smooth - surfaced yarn spun from long - staple evenly combed wool
fibres is
199. The fibres composed of amino acids that have been formed into
polypeptide chains are
a) cellulosic b) protein
c) minerals d) acetate
101. d) rayon
102. b) merino
104. b) mohair
106. d) 5%
107. b) silk
108. c) sericin
111. b) throwing
112. c)sericin
113. c) moderate
114. a) chlorine
116. d) fibrocin
117. a) rayon
120. c) peanut
121. d) carbon
123. b) suits
131. a) quality
133. a) couture
135. c) bespoke
136. b) marketing
138. c) costing
140. b) fitting
142. c) barcode
144. a) sloper
146. c) basting
147. d) bleaching
149. a) boning
153. c)chroma
156. b) casing
159. a) classic
160. c) notches
168. a) hosiery
169. a) sweaters
170. c) accessories
171. c) nylon 12
172. d) pilling
173. c)kevlar
174. c) aramid
175. d) polyester
178. a) acrylic
179. b) asbestos
182. c)coronizing
183. a) cordelam
184. d) 99
188. a) orlon
189. c)brins
190. d) carding
191. a) combing
192. c) linters
193. a) sisal
194. b) noil
195. c) Teflon
199. b) protein
THANK YOU
Best of Luck
Lean Manufacturing:
Lean Manufacturing – A way to eliminate waste and improve efficiency in a manufacturing
environment. Lean focuses on flow, the value stream and eliminating ‘muda’, the Japanese
word for waste. Lean manufacturing is the production of goods using less of everything
compared to traditional mass production: less waste, human effort, manufacturing space,
investment in tools, inventory, and engineering time to develop a new product. Lean is the
systematic approach to identifying and eliminating waste through continuous improvement by
flowing the product or service at the pull of your customer in pursuit of perfection.
Origin:
During II world war, the economic condition of Japan was heavily destroyed. They had
limited infrastructure, inventories, machine & materials. So they decided to produce a
small batch of products which would reduce inventories; it means they would need less
capital to produce the same product. Lean manufacturing is a management philosophy
derived mostly from the Toyota Production System(TPS) because Toyota Motor
Company’s Eiji Toyoda and Taiichui Ohno are given credit for its approach and
innovations, this system identified as "lean" only in the 1990s.
Procreation:
Lean was generated from the Just-in-time (JIT) philosophy of continuous and forced
problem solving Just-in-time is supplying customers with exactly what they want when
they want it With JIT, supplies and components are “pulled” through a system to arrive
where they are needed when they are needed. Just in time (JIT) is a production strategy
that strives to improve a business' return on investment by reducing in-process
inventory and associated carrying costs. Just in time is a type of operations
management approach which originated in Japan in the 1950s. It was adopted by
Toyota and other Japanese manufacturing firms, with excellent results: Toyota and
other companies that adopted the approach ended up raising productivity significantly.
Areas of Lean:
Quality- Increasing quality.
Cost- Reducing cost.
Productivity- Increasing productivity.
Safety and morale- Ensuring safety.
Waste elimination:
Waste is anything that happens to a product that does not add value from the
customer’s perspective. Products being stored, inspected or delayed, products waiting
House of Lean
Role of Lean for Producers:
Process Control
Total productive maintenance
Poka-yoke
SMED
Graphical work instructions
Visual control
Continuous improvement
Line stop
SPC
5S housekeeping
Metrics
On-time delivery
Process lead-time
Total cost
Quality yield
Inventory (turns)
Space utilization
Travel distance
Productivity
Logistics
Forward plan
Mix-model manufacturing
Level loading
Workable work
Kanban pull signal
A,B,C parts handling
Service cell agreements
Customer/supplier alignment
Operational rules
1. Standard Pitch Time (S.P.T) = Basic Pitch Time (B.P.T) + Allowances (%)
Example:
1. Efficiency = Output/Input
= (SMV*Product Quantity) /
(Worker*Working Hour*60)
= [(38.50*700) /
(60*10*60)]*100
Here,
SMV=38.50
Working hour=10
No. of worker=60
2. Target/hour = (60/SMV)*Efficiency%
= (60/0.85)*70%
= 50 pcs/hour
Here,
SMV=0.85
Efficiency=70%
= [(75*10*60)/23.5]*60%
= 1150 pcs
Here,
No of workers=75
Working hours=10
SMV=23.5
Efficiency=60%
=
50000/2000
=25
Here,
Average target=2000
= 250000/(1500*10)
=1.66 BDT
Here,
Total Production=250000
No of workers= 1500
=
[(10*1500*26*60)/14.13]*55%
= 828025 pcs/month
= (50*10*60)/900
= 33