DIY Desk Series #9 - Fold-down Wall Desk

Today's desk is perfect for small spaces. It offers a generous work surface plus built-in shelving for office supplies, but it folds up out of sight when
you don't need it.

This folding desk is also great for multi-purpose rooms (like tucking a desk area into a bedroom or living room), and makes a handy homework
station for the kids.

I love the simple and clean style of the inspiration photo above, but I'm also digging this smaller-scale twist with a tapered front and the shelf above
(we'll be talking about add-ons like this in a few days!).
Either way, this desk folds up to a slim profile to stay out of your way. You can leave it plain, attach a piece of artwork to the front, or even stencil
the front (check out Royal Design Studio for some sweet stencils, or try making your own!).

Shopping List:
3  -  1x6  @  8'
1  -  1x4  @  4'
1/2" plywood 34 1/4" x 17 3/4"
2  hinges (something like this for an inset door)
a latch or magnetic closure 

Either:
4 eye hooks + 48" of chain or rope (plus a cutter to adjust the length)
-OR-
2 adjustable lid supports

Cut List:
(A)  2  -  1x6  @  36"  (top/bottom)
(B)   2  -  1x6  @  18"  (sides)
(C)  1  - 1x6  trimmed to 5" wide  @  34 1/2"  (trim)
(D)  1  -  1x6  trimmed to 4 3/4" wide  @  34 1/2"  (shelf)
(E)  2  -  1x6  trimmed to 4 3/4" wide  @  12 1/2"  (dividers)
(F)  2  -  1x6  trimmed to 4 3/4" wide  @  10"  (side shelves)
(G)  1  -  1x4  @  13"  (center mount)
(H)  2  -  1x4  @  10"  (side mount)
(I)  1  -  1/2" plywood  @  34 1/4 x 17 3/4"  (front)

Dimensions: 36" wide x 19 1/2" tall x 5 1/2" deep  (if you use 1x8s instead it will be 7 1/4" deep)

Measure twice, cut once (seriously, though). Use glue in every step. Read through all the instructions before you begin. Use 1 1/4" woo dscrews
unless otherwise indicated. Pre-drill and countersink all your screws. Be safe, have fun, and let me know if you have any questions! Please note I
have not built from these plans myself (you might be the first!), so triple check everything as you go to make sure it works out.

Attach the top and bottom boards (A) to the side boards (B). Use the Kreg Jig to make pocket holes along the top and bottom of the sides, then use
1 1/4" pocket hole screws to attach the sides to the top and bottom. If you don't have a Kreg Jig, you can drill through the top and bottom boards
into the ends of the side boards with 1 1/4" wood screws.

Attach the trim board (C) under the top board. Remember this board should be trimmed to just 5" wide. Line it up flush with the back edge of the
frame, which will leave it inset 1/2" from the front. Attach it to the top board with wood screws (be careful not to countersink the screws too far or
they will poke through the top).
Trim the shelf and support boards to 4 3/4" wide, and if you're using a Kreg Jig drill pocket holes along both ends of each board. Start by attaching
the dividers (E) to the long shelf (D). The easiest way to get the right placement is to use the side shelves (F) as spacers from the ends of the long
shelf. Use pocket holes along the top of the dividers to attach them with pocket hole screws. If you don't have a Kreg Jig, you can drill down
through the shelf into the ends of the dividers.

Attach the side shelves (F) to the dividers. Use pocket holes along the ends of the shelves, or drill through the dividers into the ends of the shelves.  I
drew the shelves spaced up 6" from the bottom of the divider, but you can do them at any height you like. Also feel free to add more shelves or
omit them completely! DIY, guys!
Fit the shelving unit into the box and attach it using the pocket holes in the ends of each shelf and divider (you'll need a small drill to get into the
side shelves). Or skip the Kreg Jig and drill through the sides and bottom into the end of each shelf and divider.  Make sure the unit is flush with the
back edge of the frame.

Attach the mounting boards (G & H) into the until. Drill pocket holes along the sides and top of each board, and use the 1 1/4" pocket hole screws
to attach them flush with the back edge. When you hang the desk, you'll drill through these mounting board into studs.
Cut the desk front (I) from your piece of plywood.

Set it into the front of the desk to be sure it fits.

You may want to go ahead and finish the unit and the front separately so you don't have to work around the hinges and supports. To finish, fill any
holes with wood filler then sand everything down really well. This is the most important step for a professional finish! Start with a rough sand paper,
then go over everything with a medium paper, then again with a fine paper. Once it's super smooth, finish it with whatever paint or stain and sealer
you like.

Center it with a 1/8" gap all around and attach it with your hinges.
Open the front and install your support of choice. Use eye hooks and chain or rope to mimic the look of the original, or you can use adjustable lid
supports like these. Whatever you choose, make sure the front hangs level so you have an even work surface!

Another finishing option (if you want to hide the mounting boards for a cleaner look) is to paint the mounting boards the same color as your walls.
They'll blend in and your desk will look lighter and less bulky.
Attach a hook closure to the front to keep your desk closed when not in use (or you could cut a notched finger-pull in the top and do a magnetic
closure like this desk).

That's it!