M M E LIN A

. CAVALI E RI
M Y S EC R ET S
O F B EA U T Y
BY
M M E LI N A C A V A LI E R I
.

T H E M O S T F A M O U S LI V I N G B E AU T Y

In c lu di ng M ore T h a n V a l ab l
u e R e c ip e s for

Prep arati on s U sed an d R e c o mmen de d b y

M me . C av al i eri He r lf
se

I LLU S T R ATE D WW I TH NE P H O T OGR A P HS O F

MME . CA V A L E R I I A ND O TH E R
F A M OU S B E AU T I E S

W
P U B LI S H E D BY

T H E CI R CU LA T I O N S Y N D I C A TE , I N C .

NE Y OR " I
C TY
 C o p yri g h t b y S ta r C o mp a ny
C o p yri g h t 19 14 b y C i rc ula ti o n S yn d i c a te
, , , I nc
 DED I CATE D To

EV E R Y S E E " E R AF T E R B E AU T Y
 CO N T E N T S
CH A P TER
I T H E CA RE OF TH E CO M P LE X I O N

II H ow To M A " E Y OU R NE C" B EA U T I F U L
III T H I N GS To D O F OR TH E E Y ES , EA R S A N D NO SE

IV " EP IN G THE H A N D S A R M S A N D S H O U LDERS YO U N G

W
E ,

V M ASS AGE A S A B EA U TI FI ER
HAT To D o FO R TH E F EET

WW
VI

VII T H E P R O P ER CA R E OF THE M O U TH A N D TEE TH

V III D U T I ES EVE R Y OM A N O ES To H ER H A I R

IX U S EF U L B EA U TY H IN T S FO R M E N

X T H E CA RE OF TH E NA I L S A N D F I N GER S

XI B EA U TY B A TH S
XI I GOO D H EA LTH —B EA U TY S ’
F O U N DA T I O N

XIII H ow To A CQ U I RE A P L EA S IN G V O I C E

XI V

XV

XV I H ow T O GAI N F L ES H
W
H ow T O I M P R OVE YO U R F I GU RE

S AF E , EA S Y A Y S OF R ED U C I N G W E I GH T

XV II E X ER C I SES T H A T H E LP M A " E Y OU B E A U T IF U L

XV III P O S TP O NI N G THE D RE A D S I G N S OF OLD A G E

XI X H ow To T R AI N YO U R CH IL D RE N T o B E B EA U T I F U L
XX A DV I C E To BLO N D ES A N D B R U N E TTES
XX I S U RE A I D S TO B E A U TY
XXII T HE B EA U TY S ’
P ERS O NA L I TY A N D H E R CLO TH ES
XXII I O DD S A N D EN D S O F B EA U TY CULTU R E
 LI S T O F I LLU S T R A T I O N S

Madame Lina Cavalieri F r onti s pi ece

F ACI N G
P A GE

Mary Garden 12

Anna Held

P auline Fre d erick

Maxine E lli ott

Lois E w ell 14 2

Ma d ame Cavalieri

Kitty Gordon 2 54
 F O RE W ORD

N this volume is prese n ted what we co n fide n tly believe

I to be the most complete collection o f autho r itative i n
formation o n the subj ect o f pe r sonal beauty a n d the best
m ethods of acquiring and preservi n g it e v er O ffered to the
public in compact ha n dy inexpensive form
, , .

All the newest and best ways o f helpi n g a woma n to r e

tain her youthful char m for a n indefi n ite pe r iod are clea r ly
described in thes e pages and with them a r e give n more
,

than o n e th o usan d teste d recipes which will be found o f the

g r eatest assistance in attaini n g the desired e n d .

E v e ry statement made in this book is based o n lo ng and

thorough practical experie n ce ; eve ry recipe has the e n
d o r s eme n t o f the greatest livi n g authorities o n aids t o
beauty Madame Li n a Cavalieri he r self has followed the
.

advice which s he here ge n erously passes o n to other women .

The preparatio n s for which recipes are given are all o n es

the famous p r ima do n na hersel f uses and to thei r use she
,

owes the fact that for so many y ea r s S he has been a c

claimed the most beautiful woman o n ea rth .

T he woman w ho ow n s this book will be f r eed fo r ever

f r om dependence upon u n reliable beauty docto r s a n d ”

expe n sive cosmetics o f doubtful value Here She has all

.
'

the best advice the world a ffords to help her make the mos t
o ut O f the ski n the hair the eyes th e teeth the figure and
, , , ,

all the othe r cha r ms with which Nature has endowed her .

Most o f the th o usand and m o r e recipes this volume con

tai n s ca n be easily p r epa r ed at small expe n se right in your
o w n home . A n d no o n e need have the slightest hesi
tat i o n abou t usi n g any o f them
. Not only are the y person
a
F ORE W
O RD

l ly recommended by Madame Cavalieri but they have the

e n dorsement o f all the greatest beauty specialists o f both
America and Europe .

Great pains has been taken in their selection and a n y

whose v alue seemed doubtful o r which ml ght by any possi
b i li ty have harmful e ffects have bee n rigidly excluded .

The world to day places a higher v aluation up o n per

-

so n al appearance than ever be fore A n d this is why a

.

book like this which explains j ust how to make the most
,

o f you r physical self is certain o f a wa r m welcome fr o m

,

the public .

T H E P U B LI S H E R S
.
M Y S E C R ET S O F B EA U T Y

C H A P TER I
TH E C AR E OF THE C O M P LEX I O N

OR every woman — o r fo r that matter every man

F
, ,

who wants to have and r etain a good complexion the ,

o n e thorough to ilet O f the day should be made in the even

i ng This done the other toilets throughou t the day may
.
,

be brie f a n d more or less perfunctory .

The real housecleani n g particularly o f the f ac e an d neck

, ,

Should take place at night The reason for this is appare n t

. .

The skin has been in co n tact with the dust and smoke and
cou n tless othe r soiling agents o u t O f doors At night i m .
,

mured in the bedroom an d swathed in bed clothes there ,

is slight chance o f v agrant d ust sett ling o n the s kin .

Another reason is that if the day s grime is allowe d to ’

remain upon the face o r neck it becomes imbedded in the ,

pores an d a part o f it at least is taken into the circula

, , ,

tion and thus car r ied through the bo d y

,
.

Wash the face most thoroughly at night F irst with a .

,

coat o f col d cream which may be wiped awa y a fter leaving

it o n for a few minutes S econd with tepid water and a
.
,

mild soap I f yo u use a face cloth let it be o f soft silk

.
,

o r muslin o r cheesecloth but personally I p re fer j ust the

,

p alms o f the hands .

Do not r ub the face har d A h ar d ru bbing l oosens the

.

skin c au ses the muscles to sag and m akes wrinkles form

, .

I I
 12 M Y S ECRET S O F BE AU T Y
Last of all give the face its cold c r ea m bath This is
, .

i n dispensable to the person who woul d have a good c o m

plexion A Skin food such as lanolin ay b e used instead
.
m
o f cold cream for the face bath i f pre ferred A col d .

c r eam that is excellent for softe n ing and cleansing the skin
is made as follows
Cocoa butter 3 2 grams ; spermaceti 3 2 grams ; o il o f
, ,

sweet almonds 1 6 0 g r ams ; whit e wax 1 6 g r ams

, , .

A more elaborate an d expensive cream that is als o a

help ful skin food is compou n ded as follows
La n oli n 2 % ounces ; spermaceti
, ou n ce ; o i l O f sweet
,

almo nd s 2 ounces ; fresh mutton tallo w 2 % ou n ces cocoa

, , ,

nut oil 2 ounces ; ti n cture o f benzoin

, dram ; Portugal
,

extract 2 ou n ces ; O il o f neroli I O drops

, , .

Almo n d milk s ani o ld —

fashione d favorite still in u Se i n
some o f the best fo r mulae for complexi o n emollie n ts and
bleaches A good ast r i n ge n t cream that both bleaches and
.

softe n s the skin is this

Almo n d milk f r om 5 0 crushe d almonds ; rose w ater I ,

pint .

I f the mixture is n ot smooth it should be strained ,

through a cheesecloth o r so ft silk before usi n g In this .

form it is so fte n i n g a n d white n i ng With the addition o f

.

V 2 ou n ce o f alu m it is stro n gly ast r ingent b esides .

With the cold cream o r the Skin food massage away the
wri n kles made by a hard day With rotary motion mas
.
,

sage away f rom the corners o f the eyes to the hair li n e .

I n the same way with the tip s O f the fi n gers iron ou t t he

, ,

li n es which conce n t r atio n has written between the eye

b r ows With the tips o f the middle fi n gers massage the
.
,

li n es upward f r om t he corne r s o f the lips t o the no strils ,

and try to eradicate the ugly little lines in front o f the

ea r s by rubbi n g ge n tly upward .

The ca r e of the c o mplexion in Winter di ffers c ons i d

e r ably from that in S ummer For e xample to cou nteract
.
,
 M A RY G A R D E N

T he a u t h o r o f M y S ec ret s o f B e a u ty ”
s l c t s t he f am o u s p ri ma
e e

d o n n a as o ne o f t he b e s t ex am p l es o f t he “
w e l l ro u nd e d w o ma n
”
.
I4 M Y S ECRET S O F BEAU T Y
warm water and with this remove whatever p aste remains
o n the Skin .

It is eas y t o d o the complexion irreparable inj ury in

S ummer One too long fishi n g j aun t one automobile dash
.
,

with the skin ill protected against the bur n ing su n ; a to o

long dawdli n g o n the toasti n g sa n ds and the evil is do n e ,
.

The once beautiful complexion has become a memory In .

i ts place is only a dry withe r ed remnant o f wha t was onc e

,

a fresh soft ros e like Skin -

How to p revent such a tragedy to beauty —for no

, , .

woman was ever beautiful without a good complexion and ,

no woman with a goo d complexi o n can be less than at

tractive — I sh all t ry to tell yo u First and last an d al .

ways vigilance
, .

First prepare you r skin for an outi ng It is best never .

to u s e hot water on the skin But if you insist upon that

.

pe r nicious habit at least do not use it shortly before going

,

out for the hot water renders the skin acutely sensitiv e
,

to any n ew influence The win d cuts more deeply into

.

it The sun s rays burn farther They reach the danger

.
’
.

li n e to which I have referred and that really exists , .

To prepare the skin for its battle with the elements o f

a lo n g S ummer da y the face should be cleansed with tepid
,

water and almon d meal instead o f soap The action O f the

'

almond meal upon the face is soothi n g an d co oli n g B e .

fore going o u t int o the heat dust the face lightly with ric e
powder which will adhere better i f a very light coat o f col d
,

cream has first been admi n istered .

This famous old English cream is o n e o f the best f or the

pu rpose
Cocoa butter 2 ounces ; la n olin 2 ounces ; glycerine 2
, , ,

ounces ; rosewater 3 ounces ; eld e r fi ow er water 1 % ounces

, , .

I f sweet cream is availab le bathe the face freely with ,

it
. I f this d oesn t quickl y a llay the b u rning t ry this
’
,

cucumber cream
 TH E CARE O F T HE C O M P L E XI O N 15

Almond o i l I ou n ce ; O live o il I ounce ; white wax 1

, , ,

o unce ; spermaceti I ounce ; essence o f cucumber 2 ounce s

, ,
.

I f as may happ en in a count r y resort this excellent milk

, ,

o f cucumbers cannot be procured follow the face bat h o f

,

s weet cream with o n e compose d o f

S lices o f on e cucumber ; sweet milk I pint , .

I f the case is n ot h o peless but obsti n ate this honey ,

balm should relieve the brown hue O f tan that follows a

deep but not irremediable Skin burning
O ra n ge flower water 3 ounces ; strained honey I ounce ;
, ,

cold c r eam 2 ounces ; white almon d s ( p ounde d to paste )

, ,

I V ou n ces
,
" .

I f the hands have suffere d equally with the face this

lotion is e ffectual in reducing the u n lovely red n ess "
L emon j uice 1 ou n ce ; strai n ed honey 1 ounce ; cologn e
, , ,

1 ounce .

S hould the u n usual exposure result in freckles the appli

cation with a small sponge o r bit o f cotton o f either o f thes e ,

I recommend
Powdered borax V2 dram ; sugar ,
dram ; lemon j uice , ,

1 ounce .

Another application that may b e used is ma d e O f

Muriate o f ammo n ia dram ; lavender wate r I dram ;
, ,

d istille d water 4 ounces , .

I f the case is less severe I recommen d for freckles ,

this "
Peroxide o f hydrogen I ou n ce ; ammonia 1 0 drops
, , .

These may all b e more deftly applie d with a camel s ’

hair brush tha n in any other w ay .

S trawbe r ry water which was the bath o f some o f the

,

court beauties o f an ext r avagant age may be used in seaso n ,

by Ame r ican beauties for the freshening o f the facial ski n

discolo r ed by tan o r withere d by t o o g r eat exposu re o r by
lack o f care after that exposure to sun o r win d It is .

made thus "

16 M Y S ECRET S O F
'

BE AUT Y
Crushed strawberries 2 pou n ds ; alcohol ( 9 5 per cen t ) , ,

I pint .

Befo re retiring it is well to give the face three baths ,

first with pu r e cold cream to remove the coarser dust ;

Second with tepid i f possible distilled water — i f not
—
, , , ,

water softened with borax o r benzoin and last a light , ,

coat o f cold cream .

'

I f the danger line has no t been reached nor even ap ,

p r o ac he d these a p plications sh o uld restore the complexion

,

to its fo r mer delicacy in a few days If the case is n ot .

hopeless but obstinate this paste Should relieve the brown ,

hue O f tan th at follows a deep but not irremediable skin

burning I have given to this , which I have o ften used
.

after an automobile t o ur the fi tting name Honey Balm , ,

Orange flower water 3 ounces ; strained honey I ou n ce ; , ,

cold cream 2 ounces ; white almon d s ( p ounde d to paste )

, ,

17 2 ounces .

This is o ne o f the cooling creams d esirable for u se in

summer .

Oil o f almonds I pi n t ; olive o i l I ounce ; cucumber j uice

, , ,

1 pint ; white wax I ou n ce ; spe r maceti I ou n ce ; cucumber

, ,

j uice ( which has been boiled skimmed and strained ) 2 , ,

ounces .

Excellent for freckles tan and other discolorations is ,

this "

S our milk I cup ful ; horsera d ish I teaspoo n ful S crape

, ,
.

the horseradish i n to fi n e sh r eds a nd let sta n d in the sou r

milk for S i x hours be fo r e u si n g Then wash the face f r eely .

in it .

F r esh buttermilk is a cleansi n g freshe n i n g tan a n d .

, ,

freckle removing face bath t o be taken at night .

This to o is a lotion which has been recommended by

, ,

many
Citrine ointment I dram ; o il o f almonds I dram ; sper
, ,

maceti O i n tment 6 drams attar o f roses 3 drops

, , .
 THE C A RE OF THE C O M PL E XI O N 17

F or either freck les o r liver Spots this has been in many

instances curative
S olution o f ammonia I ounce ; bay rum 1 ounce ; r ose
, ,

water I o unce ; powdere d borax I ounce ; glycerine V2

, , ,

ounce ; distille d water 1 0 drops ,

.

S till ano ther fo rmula for freckles an d tan is this which ,

has a great po p ularity

A m moniu m chloride I d ram ; d istille d wate r 4 ounces
, , .

S ome faces otherwise p r etty ar e d isfigure d b y a greasy

, ,

o r oily Skin in the summe r T he nee d is met by this 10

.

tion which is at once cleansing cooling and d rying It

, ,
.

should be used as a face bath twice o r O ftener a day ac ,

cording to need
Rosewater 5 % ounces ; alcohol V2 ounce ; boric acid
, , ,

V 2 dram .

After using any tan o r f reckle lotion containing acid ,

co o l the Skin by massage with a pure col d cream .

For sunburn I would suggest as an old an d t r ie d remedy ,

Equal parts o f oxide O f zinc O intment and cosmoline .

Cooling for the sunburne d surfaces is rosewater o r a

solution o f bicarbonate o f so d a A pply the m with a sponge .

o r bit o f cotton usi n g them repeatedl y until the bur n ing

,

sensation disappears .

For the removal o f freckles these have been r eco mmen d ed

after much u se "
A solutio n o f powdered nite r o r a solution o f b i c ar bon ,

ate o f soda T hese should be a p plied t o the f ace night and

.

mor n i n g .

O n ce a fter motoring on the It alian Rivie ra I s aw some

most unwelcome Spots o n my nos e — light yellow ob t ru
,

—
, ,

sive resembling the dots with which a t u rkey egg is

fl ec k e d . A chau ffeuse sent me this p rescription which I ,

have Since use d man y times always successfully ,

L actic acid 4 ounces ; glyce r ine 1 ounce ; rosewat e r x

, , ,

o u nc e.
18 MY S ECRET S O F BEA U T Y
This also is as e fficacious as it is simple
Glycerine I o u nce ; j uic e o f V2 lemon
,
.

F or the excessive and odorous p erspiration that troubles

many in summer I recommen d this f ormula for a d ust
,

ing powder Its u se shoul d be precede d by a sponge bath

.

O f the a ff ected porti o ns A fterwar d apply the powder with

.

a so f t cloth or powder pu ff "

P ow d ered alum V2 ounce ; pow d ere d bo ric acid V2

, ,

o u nce ; o i l o f e u calyptus 2 0 d rops ; subnitrate o f b ismuth

, ,

I ounce ; O il O f verbena o r o range 5 drops , .

F or a refreshing bat h in mi d summer this lotion either -

,

sprinkle d freely into the bath o r splashe d upon the body by

handfuls immediately a fter leaving the bath is my ch o ice ,

among a score O f such recipes

S trong v inegar 2 00 g r ams ; tincture o f benzoin 2 00
, ,

grams ; tincture o f red roses 2 00 g r ams , .

My fav orit e cold cream is this which I have p repa r ed ,

u nder my eye "

L anoline 10 grams ; oil o f almon d s 1 00 grams ; rose

, ,

w ate r 1 00 grams ; white wax 5 gram s ; spermaceti 5

, ,

grams ; o il o f ros e gera n ium 5 grams Melt the lanolin e , .

and white wax and spermaceti Add the oil o f almonds . .

Warm again and add the r osewater little by little stirring , ,

a ll the time .

T hi s is my favorite fac e powder

B est talcum powder V2 pound ; boracic acid V
, 2 dram ; ,

calcine m agnesia I d ram ; po w d ered Florentine orris root

, ,

1 5 o unc e
-
.

Thi s skin l ot i on I hav e u sed in the summer with m u ch

b ene fi t t o m y complexion I hav e foun d it co oling and
.

healing
B itter almon d water 6 ounces ; orange flower wate r 4
, ,

o unces ; glycerine 2 ounces ; bo r acic acid

,
I dram , .

This is excellent fo r sunburn "

S we et milk I teacupful ; j uice o f I lemon Squee ze the
,
.
 T H E CA R E O F TH E C O M PL E XIO N 19

j uice o f the lemon into the milk and let it stand in a cool
place u ntil it curdles On retiri n g apply the mixt u re to the
.

face with a Silk sponge o r a bit o f cotton .

A face bath every night o f buttermilk is help ful L ike .

the p r eceding it should be washed o ff with tepid water after

it has been on the face for a hal f hour I f the sunburn .

is deep and obstinate better try on e o f the milk baths sev

eral times a day .

Another good treatmen t f or sunburn is the ap p lication

’
o f a sti ff paste made o f Fuller s earth and rosewater .

This is a cooling fac e lotion p reventive and cure as well ,

O f sunbu r ned skin

O range flower water 2 o u nces ; rosewater 2 ounces ;
, ,

tinctu r e o f benzoin V2 ounce ; borax 1 % drams

, , .

F o r freckles this simple preparation is o n e o f th e best I

have ever known .

Horsera d ish root I ounce ; borax ( po wdered ) 2 drams ;

, ,

hot wate r 1 pint

, .

This m o re complex mixture is e ff ect iv e fo r blackheads

an d tan as well as fre c kles "
Ammonia water I ounce ; bay rum I ounce ; rosewater
, , ,

1 ounce ; pow d ere d borax 1 ounce ; glycerine ounc e ;

, ,

distille d water 10 ounces

, .

F o r the co r nerstone o f the care o f m y c omplexion I d e

pend upon the body bath We who would be beautiful get .

ma n y hi n ts from o u r physician who is himsel f no t at all ,

beautiful but w ho i f w e O b ét him can make us so He

, , ,
.

talks about local treatment an d general treatment

” ” “
,

and he tells yo u that in most cases general treatment is far

more thorough than local .

That is the reason that I d epend upon the bo d y bath

more than anything else for my care o f the complexion .

It is general t reatment while massage an d the applicatio n

,

of lotions an d c r eam s are local treatment B ot h are nee d .

ful b u t the daily body bath i s indis p ensabl e

, .
20 MY S ECRET S OF BE AU T Y
To make the bath tonic stimulant and agreeable I have
made many experiments The most successful I have
.

foun d to be this
To a tub hal f full o f water add o ne pound o f table salt
and one pint o f violet ammonia .

The bath should be p repared ten minutes before o n e

e nters it for the salt sh o uld be thoroughly dissolved and the
,

ammonia Should have been thoroughly mixed with the bath .

This I vary by the use of o ne pound o f se a salt and h al f

a pint o f aromatic vinegar .

These p reparations being of an astringent nature Should

not be used every d ay Three times a week are enough
.

for their tonic effect For a s o othing bath I leave o ff the

.

salt and pou r into the tub

One ounce of tincture o f benzoin an d tw o bath pastilles ,

s cented to you r taste but never colored

, .

This is the way I t ake it As soo n as I rise in the mo rn

.

ing I plu n ge int o my te p i d bath The tempe ratu r e I take

.

mysel f to be sure that my maid has made no mistake

, .

When t he therm ometer which I thrust into the wate r regis

ters about 98 deg r ees Fahre n heit I am satisfied I f higher .
,

it is too warm I f lo w er it is too cold

.
,
.

I permit mysel f j ust twenty minutes in the tub More .

than that is weakening While in the tub I play about as

.

j oyfully as a young porpois e I plu nge and flounder a n d

.

toss up a sh ower o f water with my hands ; for to lie lazily

in a tub of wate r is to i nvfie rheumatism and neuralgia .

I rub upon the brush quantities of the purest scented soap

I can get I try first this then that soap I am always
.
,
.

t rying to find something I like better than the last I scrub

—
.

my body vigo rously as vigorously as the women o f the

Loire p o und their clothes upo n the stones o n the river .

I r ise streami n g with rills o f soapy water and take a

, ,

cold shower bath upon my shoulders Perhaps I use the .

hose a ttached to th e bath Perhap s I catch the water as it

.
22 MY S EC R ET S O F BE AU T Y
While I have been in the tub I have no t washed my face .

It is now to have its first bath The bath is still not a .

liquid one It is o f cold cream I give you here one of

. .

my favorite recipes
Rosewater 5 0 0 grams ; o i l o f sweet almon d s 5 00 grams ;
, ,

white beeswax 2 0 grams ; spermaceti 2 0 grams ; o il o f rose

, , ,

3 g r ams .

All these articles shoul d be absolutely p u re I f you do .

not trust your druggist send them to a chemist to be a n ,

alyz e d . It is expensive but it never pays to econo mize in

,

the complexion L et me tell yo u how to p repare the col d

.

cream
P lace the beeswax an d the spermaceti in a steamer The .

steamer should not be placed upon the stov e for the fire ,

woul d be too harsh for it and would taint the cream with
its odo r s P lace the steamer instead in a p an o f hot water
.
, ,

and let the mixture be gently heated With a long handled .

-

wooden spoon stir in sl o wly the o i l o f sweet almonds .

Drop the rosewater little by little into the mixture an d stir

, ,

again When it is thoroughly mixed pour it into a st one

.
,

j ar or a china v essel and when it has co oled add three

,

drops o f oil of rose I f you use the o i l o f rose be fore the

.

mixture has cooled the pe r fu me will evaporate

,
.

Y ou will have when you have done this an o u nce less

t han a pound o r fi fteen ounces of absolutely pure cold
, ,

cream which will last for many months if not wasted

, .

I massage my face sitting be fore the mirror o f my dress

ing tab le This I hav e foun d is far better than the lazy
.
, ,

way of massaging it while in a reclining position I want .

light for massage I want a stream o f it over my shoulder

.
,

my le ft shoulder pre ferably falling upon the mirror and ,

showing me any line that I migh t have acquire d since the

morning be fore S itting there be fore the mirro r I give
.

my face vigorous inspection I mercilessly scrutinize it . .

Wh ere v er there i s the slightest tracery u pon the smooth

 THE CARE OF T H E C O M PL E XI O N 23

sur face upon that spot I concentrate I massage my f ace

,
.

fo r ten min u tes always keeping in min d the p u rpose o f the

,

ma ssage .

That is th at wrinkles are cause d by d e f ecti v e circulation

,

in o ne spo t and that the way to remov e them is to increas e

,

the circulation in that spot S ending a f resh su p ply o f .

bl ood to the s u nken region will tend to fill o ut and plump it .

Theref o re I c o ncentrat e o n the region from the corners

,

o f the lips to the nost r ils that region where the ugly diag
,

onal lines come and hi n t of ill temper o r illness or o ld age ;

o n the space between the eyebrows where t he lines o f worry

form ; o n the area about the outer corners o f the eyes an ,

area corrugated by too much laughte r ; all these an d the r est

o f the face I massage by q uick light pats o f t he c u shions
—
,

o f the ends o f the fi nge r s light but fi rm , .

Always with a motion round and round A lengthwis e .

motion causes the muscles to s ag an d pulls the skin loose

from the muscles I t is v ery ba d A fter the rotary move
. .

ment I go o v er the face with quick light but stin ging slaps , , .

With a square o f thin so f t linen I remo v e any surplus o f

,

grease that has not been absorbed in the pores .

For the Skin that bec omes overheate d and looks f everish
after massage this cooling soothing lotion may be used
, ,

Extract o f violet 3 5 0 grams ; extrac t o f rose 3 5 g r ams ;

, ,

tincture o f orris 80 grams ,

.

Dashed upon the face a f ter th e morning massage it i s ,

d eliciously cooling an d re f reshing I f you d o not care fo r .

the liquid face bath fl u ffing daintily ove r the face a pow d e r
,

pu ff d ipped in rice powder is sufficient .

To the win d ow I go h and mirror in han d p fo r a f urth er

,

inspect ion be fore applying the rice p ow d er I see perhaps .

, ,

acne a bit o f what yo u in this country call blackhea d

,
” “
,

at the side o f my nose I hasten to remove it How " . .

Not by p r ess mg it out N o no That leaves an ugly hole

.
, .

in the Skin It i s a m u tilation o f the f ace N o ; I sear ch

.
.
24 MY S ECRET S O F BEAU T Y
f or match or a woo d en too thpick T h en I tak e from my
a
—
.

toile t table one of tw o preparations each is good "

Rosewater 72 wineglass peroxide o f hy d rogen
, wine ,

glass S hake well in a glass Dip the match into t he mix

. .

t u re an d press the dampened e nd upon the blackhead I t .

does no t remove it but cleanses its color to white

, .

Or I us e t his which I think is milder

,

Rosewater 2 3 wineglass ; ammonia 1 3 wineglas s

,
-
,
-
.

S hake well together in a tumbler Dip the end o f the .

toothpick o r match in it and use as other p reparation L ike .

the other this cleanses without r emovi n g the acne .

I f my plans fo r the day include a r ailway j ourney o r an

a u tomobile spin I p repare my complexion fo r the o rdeal
,
.

Be fore goi n g o u t I massage th e face again with cold cream

and dust it once more with rice p o wder This fo rt i fi es the.

face for the whirlwind o f sm o ke o r dust it encounters .

When I return to tho r oughly cleans e the face I steam it

, , .

Into my stationary wash bowl I pour two quarts o f boiling

water and one ounce o f tincture o f be n zoin I bend for .

ward and place my face as close to this as p ossible I .

w rap about my head a towel an d swathe the towel — a

big Turkish one

,
about my sh o ulders and the edge o f the
bowl so that no stea m can escape S o I remain until I
,
.

f eel that my face drips with pers p iration and until I am

nearly su ffocated by steam Then s itti n g up straight I
.
, ,

dab o ne o f the linen squares about m y f ace an d cool it by a

han d ba th o f eau de c o logn e .

O r if the j ourney has been taken in summer and I am

, ,

tanne d o r f reckle d in consequence I apply this,

One wineglass full o f rosewat er ; fifteen dro ps peroxi d e

o f hy d r ogen .

I bathe the fac e with this preparation and leave it on the

skin fo r fi fteen minutes then remove it by massaging the
,

fac e with t h e c ol d crea m for which I hav e given a p re

 THE CARE OF TH E C O M PL E XIO N 25

scriptio n o r with rosewater The peroxide is drastic and

,
.
,

should only be used in emergencies .

And now the day i s passed and I am ready to retire .

Again I think of my complexion F or the fi rst time that .

day I really wash my face .

First it has its bath o f soap and water I use plenty o f

, .

soap but make a lather o f it in the bowl instead o f placing

, ,

it di r ectly on my face P lungi n g my hands int o the soapy

.

water I bathe my face with the palms o f my hands

,
.

Never d o I use anything else A sponge o r a cloth is too .

harsh There is nothi n g so fter than th e palms o f a woman s

.
’

ha n ds They are softer than Silk and because they are

.
,

the so ftest obj ects I know I bathe the delicate Skin o f the
face with t hem After the warm water face bath I rinse
.

the bowl and the face with cool not cold wate r Cold water , , .

is too severe .

Then again the ten minutes o f massage with the col d

, , ,

c r eam Then to bed I feel that I have done for my c om

. .

plexion the duty I o w e it I ow e it but o ne mo r e to sleep

.
,

for eight hours in a roo m where the wi n dows are as wi d e

open as possible my bed being o u t o f the draught a n d my
,

self well cove r ed with bla n kets for to be cold is to commit ,

a c r ime against the complexion .

O n e other precautio n I may take i f the mo r ni n g i n s p ec

tion has revealed that there are pimples o n the face It .

is a remedy most Simple but e fficacious

, , .

In the mor n i n g bath a handful o f sta r ch B e fore r et i r .

ing a p aste spread over the face and made thus "
O n e tumble r half full o f water The remain d er filled .

with starch S tir to a thick pa ste

. .

Eve r y woman who gives her complexion the right care

has to spend many hours at he r dressi n g table This .

should be low S O that y o u can s i t be fo r e it with comfort

,
.

It Should be wide and lo n g an d flat so that it ma y hold

, , ,
26 M Y SE C R ET S OF B EA U T Y

all o f those accesso r ies o f the toilet which a woman wants

within reach as She sits before her mirror .

It Shoul d have a large mirror a n d a good on e a j ust , ,

mirror but not a me r ciful o n e that will reveal ever y

, ,

blemish but will not exaggerate it The faults o f o u r faces

, .

trouble us enough withou t being exaggerated by ou r mir

ro rs. Money spent fo r a good mirror will yield you a good
return in h o nestly Showing you h ow y ou l ook I f you .

k n ow exactly how you look you c a n build upon that ,

foundation o f knowledge a new a n d better appeara n ce .

Bei n g sure that your mi r ror is reliable place it where it

will have the best light in the room This should be o p .

p o s i t e i
, f possible but certai n ly near , to the window The .

best light fo r writing i s t he best light for dressi n g The .

light s houl d fall over the left sh oulder A rrange your .

electric lights o r candles o r lamps o r gas j ets whatever are

, , , ,

your lighting facilities so that the light will fall in that

,
’
direction Don t dress by a poor light any more than yo u
.

w ould rea d o r write by a poor light .

The mirror should be as la rge as possible and should be

adj ustable Attached to support s on the table it sh o uld be
.

easily swung back a n d fo r th according to the angle o f ,

V iew you wish to get upon yourself .

Even i f the table be o f the plainest sort o f home ma n u ,

facture the table an d mirror f r ame should be white The

, .

e ffect o f dai n tiness an d clea n liness is given by a white

tab le a n d mirror frame S pots an d stains can b e mo r e .

easily removed from it S ome you n g women have a fa n cy

.

for drapi n g their d r essi n g tables in muslin o r silk tied bac k

with ribbo n s o r i n silk finished by tassels o f the same shade
, ,

each t o match the curtai n s at the wi n dows a n d the dra

p e r i e s of the bed Perso n ally I p r
. e fer the white pai n ted o r
e n amele d dres sing table to a n y other D r ape r ies are ele .

gant but besi d es their elegance I always see their oth er

,
 T HE CA R E O F T H E C O M P L E XIO N 27

i
S gn ifi c a n c e — that o f d ust t raps In furnishing rooms I
.

try to p u t t he money into rich woo d s an d r ugs and shun ,

d rape ries .

’
I f the owner s means permit it a duplex or t riple mirror is
better than a single one I would allow the young w o man
.

at her toilet literally to s e e hersel f as others s e e her S he .

would study her p rofile and note whether her cheeks were
growing too plump o r too thin S he coul d s e e whether th e
.

line o f he r coi ffure is as becoming to the sides as in front .

S he could study he r Shoulders and learn whether they are

too lean and need fattening o r too fat and r equire thin
,

ning Having once dresse d be fore a d uplex or t rip le mirro r

.

y o u will set about getting o ne .

But i f yours is a goo d si n gle mirror you can still make

your toilet v ery satis factorily with the aid o f a han d mirror .

This will in a little longer time enable you to scrutinize

you r profile an d back successivel y instea d o f seeing all ,

three v iews of you r hea d at once .

On most dressing tables we see a brus h and comb This .

is the worst possibl e place fo r them Perhaps the y are .

th ere merely for ornament to complete a ha n dsome ivory

, ,

o r silve r o r gold set and give the spectato r a sense o f the

,

completeness o f the t able furnishings But the comb and .

brush that are in use Should be care full y kept in a d rawe r

o f the d ressing table o r in a toilet closet o r in one o f th e ,

medicine chests with which bathro oms are now supplied .

After using them an d be fore putting them away he su r e

, ,

to cleanse them I f you neglect this you r combing and

.

br u shing might almost as well not have been d one for the ,

dust in you r hair has merely been shifted to your comb

an d brush and unless remove d by cleansing will be merely
, ,

transferred again to the hair .

A bru sh can be cleaned by r ubbing it briskly u p on a

towel A comb can be wipe d th us o r with a piece o f tissue
.
28 MY S ECRET S OF BEAU T Y
paper B ut they should be dipped every fortnight at least
.

in soa py water into which a teaspoonful o f ammonia has

,

been sprinkled .

The toilet table should be furnishe d als o with a tray o r

box containing the manicure utensils The orange wood .

stick should be ready for cleansi n g the nails and pushi n g

back the skin that is a n xi o us to encroach upon the nails .

In a drawer the r e should be a package o f medicated cotton .

In a flask o n the toilet table there Should b e a little peroxide

”
o f hydrogen This not to touch up the hair but to serve
.
,

two worthier purposes The ora nge wood stick wrap p ed

.

round with a bit o f the cotton and dipped into the p e roxide
—o r better the peroxide pou r ed upon i t — will quickly
,

cleanse the end o f the nail that has been darkened by dust .

The per oxide is also valuable for a gargle or to give the ,

mouth one o f the fre q uently necessary baths .

In o n e o f the little silver o r ivo ry or enameled boxes ,

o f which a toilet table cannot have t o o many there should ,

be a little powde r ed pumice sto n e When the daily s c r u n i t y

.

r eveals dark stains upon o r between the teeth apply this ,

pumice sto n e by di p ping an orange wood stick o r a hard

rou n d toothpick into it and gently rubbi n g with them the
stained surface Never use a toothpick for this purpose
.
,

for this would scratch the to o th and e ro de the e n amel .

One o f the toilet bottles o n my dressi n g table I always

keep filled with rosewater This is soothing whe n the face
.

is fevered a n d is alway s grateful and healing to the skin

,
.

In anothe r bottle I keep a stro n g toilet vinegar t o i n hale

o r to sprinkle ab o ut my neck to revive me whe n I am

fatigued This vinegar beauties Of the time of Louis XV

.

used to b r ighten their complexions by S p r I nkli ng it upo n

their faces when they were fatigued o r i n disposed It is .

composed o f
Honey 6 ounces ; vinegar made o f white wine 1 quart
, ,

isinglass 3 drams ; nutmeg V2 ounce ; shredded red sandal

, ,
30 M Y S ECRET S O F BEAU T Y
fac e creams was the inventi o n o f the famous Q ueen Eli z a
beth o f Hungary It is made like this " .

Oil o f rosemary V2 ounce ; o i l O f lavender 2 drams ; oil

, _ ,

o f p etit g r ain 3 0 drops ; tincture of tolu 4 drams

, orange ,

flower water V2 pint ; rectified spirits o f wine

, pint , .

Mme S arah Bernhardt long used this Skin tonic It

. .

was adapted to that w onderfully preserv ed woma n s natur ’

ally moist and oily Skin F or a ski n that is dry a n d i n clined

.

to eruptive blemishes it might prove irritating It was .

composed o f
B oili n g water I quart ; sea salt 5 ounces ; alcohol V2
, , ,

pint ; spirits o f camphor 2 ounces ; spirits o f ammonia 2 , ,

ounces .

This used by the beauties of the deposed S ultan s harem

,
’
,

gave a complexio n said to be the most beautiful in Europe

S weet almond o i l 4 ounces ; white wax 3 2 0 grains ; sper
, ,

mac e t i 3 2 0 grains ; powdered benzoin 1 00 grains ; tincture

, ,

o f amberg r is 6 0 grains ; pulverized rice 3 2 0 grains

, , .

Adelina Patti whose complexion has survived her voice

, ,

w as lo n g presumed because o f someone s misquotation o f

’

her wo r ds to n ever use soap The truth is as I very well

,
.
,

k n ow that she used a mild soap every night to wash

,

her face be fore retiring S he insists that her face could .

not be really clean without it Duri n g the day she cleanses .

it f r om dust by the u s e o f any pur e col d cream that is

available .

M rs Langtry too is an advocat e of soap fo r the com

.
, ,

plexion A pure Simple soap She uses at least once a day

.
, ,

sometimes O ftener .

Turkish women believe in the free u s e o f soap It was .

a p r i n cess wife o f the physician o f the prese n t S ulta n

, ,

w ho gave me this recipe for a soap that will cleanse a n d

softe n a n d whiten the ski n The women o f the harem r e .

gard it as the first aid to a beautiful complexion

S have very fine on e pound o f white oliv e ( Castile ) soap .
 T HE CAR E OF TH E C O M PL E XIO N "

3 1

P lace in a porcelain kettle covering it with col d water , .

When the soap has been softened by the heat an d mixe d

with the water stir into it O n e half po u nd o f oatmeal M ix -
.

this well Wh en thoroughly blen ded take it O ff the stove

.

and when the mixtu re has cooled form with the hands ,

soap balls as l arge as a walnut Or the soap c an b e used .

warm in its li qu 1d state .

This f ace lotion is a favorite o f the h arem

j uice o f 3 lemo n s ; glycerine 5 0 grams ; cologne water I O , ,

grams .

Egyptian women believe t ha t th e face shoul d be bathed

three times a day with hot water The Chi n ese women .
,

singularly produce the same eff e ct o f a smooth skin by the

,
.

use o f cold face baths The American habit o f cleansing

.

the face Simply by col d c r eam had its origin in India where ,

women clea n se the face with vegetable oils .

A princess o f the Khedive s court in E gypt tol d me that ’

hot wate r ablutio n s foll o wed by an application o f this

,

liquid woul d keep any Skin fair a n d smooth Ce r tainly

,
.

the clear brown of her complexion was a recommendation

o f the habit The reci p e is this "
.

Rose wate r 1 0 0 grams ; tincture o f benzoin 1 0 grams

, , .

The women o f Chi n a Turkey an d Egypt have faith in,

the e fficacy o f the j uice o f the beet Wh ile in all those .

cou n t r ies it is use d as a paint ma n y o f the women hav e

told me that they bath e their faces i n it for the tonic e ff ect
o f what they term the blood o f the beet They then r e .

move the stain with tepid water .

Dust is o n e o f the wo r st enemies o f beauty It settles .

in a dim dingy veil upon the face causing it to look ill

, ,

kept in a word dirty

, , .

To keep the face cleansed fro m dust keep always a bottle

O f olive o i l and a companion bottle o f witch hazel o n you r
dressing tabl e o r toilet Shel f .

B efore g oing ou t pass a bit o f cotton o r a p iece o f soft

 32 MY S ECRET S O F BEAU T Y
linen that has been moistened in t he oil over the face .

P rotect the face furthe r by d usting it with rice powder .

Returning from o ut o f do o rs remov e the pow d er and

du st by washing the face with yet more olive oil applied in
the same way The danger o f t he olive o i l turn ing the
.

skin yellow fo r that fea r exists in many minds influenced

“
by the adage Yell o w makes yellow can b e removed
by adding to two ounces o f olive o i l on e hal f ounce o f
,

almond oil and twenty drops o f tincture o f be n zoin B e .

f ore r etiring the face shoul d have another o f these o i l baths ,

unless you prefer to use the cold cream which is more u n

wieldy an d s o less quickly cleanses .

S trong salt wate r o r a mixture o f bica rb o nate o f soda in

the proportions o f a teaspoo n ful o f bica rbo n ate o f so d a to a
glassful o f water are admirable throat cleansers
, .

To keep the nails guiltless o f the gray o r black rim that

so o ff ends the Sight it is not e n ough t o wrap cotton about
,

the point o f an orange stick a n d remove the accumulated

dust The hands must be washed o ften even though not
.
,

s o iled to remove the d ust fro m b eneath the nails And if

’

.
,

the nails ha v e become ragged beneath the edge which causes ,

the dust to thickly and obsti n ately collect there thrust them ,

into soap j elly into which you have poure d a half dozen
drops o f ammonia o r into a cake o f soap well softened by
,

lying in the water and allow this to remain un d er the nails

fo r a few minutes to do the work o f cleansing .

P e rhaps the skin o f you r face is very pale as though ,

every drop o f bloo d had been drained from it and the fact
‘

that you r stock o f v igor is below par is shown b y the dry

texture and loose condition o f your skin .

Refresh it by giving it a cologne bath P our a few drop s

.

o f cologne over a piece o f gauze and pat the face lightly

with it This will coax the blood quickly to the surface

. .

Or soak a s quare piece o f flannel in olive oi l an d place it

 THE CAR E O F T H E C O M PL E X IO N 33

o v er the face The skin abso rbs this o il and in a sho r t

’

.
,

time looks much fresher .

S hould you despite your tire d bloo d less aspect have to

, , ,

be seen in public bathe the face in tepid water usi n g hand

, ,

fuls o f almond meal w et with a fe w drops o f benzoin i n

,

stead o f soap Then dash cold water upon the face This
. .

soon calls back the color that has fo rsaken the visage .

Many Englishwomen follow the se n sible practice o f giv

”
ing the face a d rink For proo f o f the e fficacy o f this
.

carry to you r bathroom a droopi n g dying plant Turn , .

u pon it with t he rubber spray a Shower o f cool water In .

s t an t ly the fai n ting plant revives .

Just as grateful a s was this plant fo r its needed d raught is

the skin that is parched in the first stage o f the dreaded, ,

withering p rocess fo r its dri n k ,

”
The E n glish woman “
.

closes her eyes holds he r breath and thrusts her face deep
,

into a bowl o f cool water S he keeps it thu s subme rged as .

long as She is able Then raising her head she breathes

.
, ,

deeply an d again thrusts he r face into the water S he r e .

peats this face drink five o r s i x times keeping he r face in ,

the water as long as her suspended b reath will permit .

Wiping the moisture o ff with a soft cloth she is amazed ,

to s ee the response o f her complexion to the treatme n t .

H er skin seems transformed f rom a b r ownish white parch

ment crossed and c riss crossed by the faint etchings that
,
-

po rtend wrinkles to a smooth pink and white silken surface

, .

Your skin should be o n e o f the livest things in your e n

tire makeup y et i t i s that part o f you which o ftenest looks
,

lifeless A d ea d skin as specialists k n ow it is pale a n d

.
, ,

withered looking It is seamed with fine lines an d looks ab

.

s o lu t ely devoi d of moisture .

There are many me thods o f remedying this regrettabl e

appearance which adds many years to a woman s apparent
,
’

age and which must by some means be avoide d

, , ,
.
34 MY S ECRET S O F BEAU T Y
The fu n d amental remedy is a change o f diet A fathe r s .
’

advice in a recent play Eat two apples and d rink a g lass

,
”
o f water be fore go ing to bed was laughed at as old
fashio n ed yet there i s no better beauty rule havi n g the ski n
, ,

in mind It gives nature p rompt and powerful aid in cleans

.

ing the interior O f ou r bodies and without this unclogge d

,

interior there can be no clear live skin A mottled pim

,
.
,

pled Skin is an i n fallible Sign of an u n clean i n terior .

But the apples eate n at night are not enough D rink .

lemon j uice slightly diluted with water in the morni n g .

The j uice o f an entire lemon p r essed into the glass and

diluted with the same qua n tity o f water will cleanse the
stomach and aid in cleari n g the skin .

A remedy for a dead looking mottled Skin is a teaspoon

ful o f grape j uice with the same quantity o f olive oil night
and morning .

A French rem e dy for a fa d ed Skin is to eat a small plate

ful o f water cress with salt every day The beauties o f .

the ha r ems o f Constantinople rely upon any green salad

eaten at breakfast with much salt for the same purpose .

S ometimes these internal remedies must be supplemented

by external aids One of the best is t o moisten coarse
.

cornmeal with milk an d fi lli n g the hands with it scrub the

, ,

fac e ge nt l y y et with vigor The friction opens the po res

.

an d relieves the mu d dy looking skin o f the poison which

has choked them .

A woman wh o s e skin at fi fty is as f r esh as a girl s tol d

’

me that she would as lie f retir e without saying her prayers

as without ironing her face with i c e This causes the .

bloo d to fl ow to t he surface refreshing an d fe e ding the

,

skin .

Col d cream is n ee d ful for most complexions but not fo r

e v ery o ne A good test o f you r needs is to pat col d
.

cream into the skin and note whether it quickly ab sorbs it .

If so the skin i s hungry and re q uires d aily feeding .

 x
T HE C A RE OF THE C O M PL E XI O N 35

C ocoanut oil if secured i n its purest state is an admirable

,

Skin foo d Oliv e O i l feeds the Skin well but there is a deep
.

r ooted obj ect ion to its t oo frequent u se becaus e it is charged

with making the skin yellow T he owner o f o n e o f the .

best complexions I kno w a lovely French woman feeds , ,

her Skin by nightly baths of the following "

Olive o i l 3 ounces ; almond o i l V2 ounce ; benzoin
, , ,

ounce .

In this case the olive oil s tendency to make the skin yel ’

low i f such a te n dency lies in this greatly remedial oil is

, ,

neutralized by the prese n ce o f the benzoin which is a ,

whitener The benz oin has still another O fli ce useful

.

to those whose skins have become flabby It is an ast r i n .

gent d rawing the relaxe d skin u p into the d esired tigh t

ness .

P rimarily the cause o f most facial blemishes is indigestion .

To remove an e ff ect on e shoul d always try first to remove

,

t he cause Most women hav e some form o f indigestion

.
,

an d it is due to o n e o r both o f two bad habits One is .

eating harmful things The other is not drinking enough .

vvat e r .

H ere are ten things I beg women neve r to eat " S ausages ,

d ried fish pies bo n bons puddings i c e cream b ee f except

, , , , , ,

when well roasted pork especially ham oysters u n less o ne

, , , ,

is absolutely cert ain o f their freshness hot bread as , ,

u sually made in America I am opposed to the practice of .

d r i n ki n g ho t water Instead o f being an aid to digestion

.
,

it is a hindrance Granted a fter a heavy dinner when the

.
,

s ense o f overful n ess O ppresses us a cup o f hot water , ,

slowly sipped aids digestion But this should be used only

, .

in emergencies The regular habit o f d ri n king a great

.

de al of hot water is ha r mful for when the stomach is ,

flooded with it the gastric j uices go o n strike F inding the .

intru der s there they refuse to do their work and retire .

A n d the hot w at e r is le ft t o d o the work ine ffectively an d ,

36 MY S ECRET S O F BEAU T Y
alo n e . S o the hot water habit seems to me a distinctly ba d
-

one .

Light foods as chicken fresh fish beans spinach a n d

, , , ,

beets co n tai n i n g iron a n d stewed fruit slowly eate n and

, , ,

well masticated are excelle n t for the complexion

, .

Three quarts o f water a day should be d r u n k to keep o ne

well which state a good complexion always follows Drink
, .

three tumblerfuls o n risi n g and while you a r e about your ,

mo rn ing toilet S ip do n o t gulp it If yo u are not thirsty

.
, ,
.
,

dri n k it anywa y That morni n g bath for the stomach is

.

imperative At each meal it is p ermissibl e to dri n k o n e

.

glass o f wate r slowly sippi n g it ,

.

For the work o f cleansi n g the s tomach I shoul d advise a

hal f teaspoo n ful of soda taken in a wine glass o f water
every mo r ni n g I f the disorder is very pr o nounced I sh o uld
.

repeat the dose after each meal fo r three o r four days .

Bica r bonate o f soda like other good thi ngs may become a
, ,

bad thing if used in excess I am grate ful to t he Paris .

pharmacist w ho gave me this warni n g .

Pulverized charcoal is also an excelle n t c o rrective fo r

the stomach which is tired or rebellious One teaspoo n ful .

every mo rn i n g and o n e after each meal is as good as a

broom in the stomach .

L a rge red splotches appear upon the face sometimes

, ,

s eemi n g to try to burn their w ay out This lite r ally they .

are tryi n g to do An excess o f uric acid causes this co n

.

dition a n d it is best to consult a physician about a cure

, ,

fo r it is the pa r e n t o f rheumatism If a consultatio n is n ot .

conve n ient then diet diet diet

, , ,
.

Eat no more f r uit in the morning E at it o n ly at n oo n .

and night L et the breakfast be most Simple o f some

. ,

coarse ce r eal or c r usts o f coarse brea d ; and avoi d rare

,

meats especially beef

,
.

B u t a beauty complai n s that there are spots o n her face

a n d yet she must shine at a ball to morrow There is n o
' -
.
3 8 MY S ECRET S O F BE AU T Y
Bicarb onate o f so d a 3 6 grains ; distilled water 8 ounc es ;
, ,

e ssence o f roses 6 drops ,

.

I have seen pimples remov ed by a half dozen application s

o f bica r bonate of s od a dampened slightly and placed with
, ,

the tip o f the finger u p on the i rritated surface .

Another Simple reme dy for splotches or pimples is this

B icarbonate o f soda 3 6 grai n s ; glycerine 1 d ram ; sper
, ,

mac et i oint ment 1 ounce , .

This shoul d be applied with absorbent cotton allowed to ,

remain o n the a ffecte d part for a quarter o f an ho u r and ,

remove d .

For the blo tch e d condition o f the skin which is caus e d ,

by su n in summer an d win d i n winter if the skin be d elicate , ,

I recommend this
Borax ,
dram ; glycerine 1 ounce ; elde r flower wate r , ,

7 ounces .

S teaming is o ften recomme n ded for cl eansing the face .

I do no t u s e it because I think its tendency is to make the

skin to o delicate to d etach it from the muscles and to caus e
,

premature wri n kles .

I am often asked how to remove moles I answe r D o .

,

n ot remove them In the time o f Marie Antoinet te they

.

were regar d ed as marks o f beauty Let the m alone ”

But . .

i f anyone insists I s ay then go to a physician an d be by

,

him guided P robably he will remove them by electricity

.
,

but I am afraid — a fraid .

In d igestion is the great foe to the complexion within .

The foe to be feare d with out is the careless u s e of powders .

P ow der j udiciously use d especially at night is an ai d to

, ,

be auty Its u se in the evening is an indication o f r efi ne

.

ment An d a dainty pow d er flu ffe d upon the face befor e

.

going out especially i f cold cream has fi rst been applie d i s

, ,

an excellent protection from the col d or heat o r from a

high win d But it is absolutely necessary that the powde r
.

b e pur e .R ic e po w d e r is h arml es s to the skin I t pro .

 T HE C A RE OF TH E C O M PL E XI O N 39

t ec t s the complexion as wo ul d a fine v e il A n d it r emoves

.

the d i sgr ee ab le shi ne upo n the ski n that m ak es the best

g room e d woman look vulg a r at night.

This powder I ha v e found most v aluabl e

Rice flour 6 ounces ; rice starch 6 ounces ; c arbonate o f
, ,

magnesia 3 ounces ; boric acid 1 V2 ounces ; p owdered orris

, ,

root 1 % drams ; essenc e o f bergamot 1 0 d rop s ; essence

, ,

o f C i t ron ,1 5 d r op s
.
 W
CH A P TE R II

HO TO M A" E Y OU R N E C" BE A UT I F U L

T is a most decided advanta ge to be born with a beauti

ful neck as it is to be bo r n with beautiful features a
, ,

beautiful figure o r beautiful hair It is o ne o f the co mp en .

s a t i o n s o f being overplump that the woman o f too ample

li n es has a beautiful th r oat a n d arms Wh ile the thin .

woman whose features are well defi n ed not being bla n keted
, ,

by superfluous layers of flesh a n d whose figure is more ele ,

gant because no t swathed by adipos e tissue has as a rule a , , ,

scrawny neck and whip like arms -

.

The neck to be beautiful must be neither too long nor

too short to o fat n or too lean It must be shapely ; that
, .

is evenly developed T he Skin must be soft a n d white

, . .

T he le n gth o f the neck is o n e o f the fixed quantities o f

nature O n e ca nn ot change it but we can learn the lesso n
.
,

o f illusion from the stage a n d t ry to make it seem longer

,

o r sho r ter than it is The best aid to this is the po i se o f the

.

head The woman whose chin is carried w ell up whose

.
,

poise o f the head is habitually high gives the impression ,

that her neck is at l east a n inch l o nger than it is Als o .

the manner o f the trimmi n g o f her hi gh neck gown a n d -

the line at which the lo w c ut gown is fi n ished determin e

-

whether the neck loo ks lo n ger tha n it is o r shorter .

I f th e neck is short the collar shoul d b e o f soli d colors

o r be trimme d with perpendicular li n es The low necked -
.

gown should be cu t lower than that of the woman with the

l o ng neck for the neck is more depende n t upo n its s u r
,

roun d ings for its e ff ect than i s any other part o f the bo dy .

40
 TO M AKE Y O U R N ECK BEA U T I FU L 4 1

I f there is a wide sweep o f the shoulders the long line f rom

the poi n t o f the shoulder to the chin will lend itsel f to the
neck and make the neck seem longer than it would i f the
gown were merely one o f the collarless sort with a line o f
cloth defi n ing where the neck actually begins .

I f the n eck is long the problem is an easie r o ne especially ,

at times when much d ressi n g fo r the neck is in vogue .

’
Even an ostrich s neck could be so wrapped about with
laces with collars a n d ties of a contrasting colo r which
,

would cut the apparent length that it woul d b e f ar less con

,

s p i c u o u s tha n unadorned I should s ay it could be made to

.

look a foot shorter The human neck can be d ressed to

.

make a p ropo rtionate change o f appearance The ex .

t r emely low d écolletage is less becoming to the woman with

the long neck I f S he must a d opt it o r thinks s he must
.
, ,

s he should wear he r j ewels o r a band o f ribb o n about he r

n eck to make her neck see m shorter The drooping Ma

.

donna poise of the head may be becomi n gly a ffected by the

woman with the long neck especially when sitti n g for her
,

photographs .

The neck I have be fo re said must be neither to o fat

, ,

n o r too lean . T o correct either to o mu ch o r too little flesh

upon the neck w e must summon the aid o f that lieutenant
to beauty massage On the beautiful neck the flesh
, .

is eve n ly distributed The neck Should be save fo r the

.
,

two parallel li n es about an inch apart which encircle

the neck and are seen o n the necks even o f babes ,

perfectly smooth I f the flesh be uneven pe r sistent skill

.
, ,

ful a n d ge n tle massage should redist r ibute the disproport ion

ate bulk o f flesh .

The r e is always a possibility that the neck will be flat in

f r ont and display thick layers o f fat at the sides a n d back .

This can be corrected by patie nt a n d careful massage The .

front o f the n eck Should be made plumpe r by massage .

Olive o i l o r a pu r e cold cream should b e freely rubbe d int o

42 M Y S ECRET S O F BEA U T Y
the skin by the first three fingers o f each hand m assaging ,

first on the right side o f the n eck with the right ha n d then ,

o n the le ft wit h the left hand then with both ha n ds to ,

gether The motion should be a rotary o n e always the best

.
,

movement for rebuildi n g tissue because it induces circula

tion which feeds the starved atrophied portions
, ,
.

To r educe th e bulk o f the back and Side o f the neck a

reducing lotion should be applied by long swe eping d own , ,

ward strokes the e ff ect o f which str o kes is to melt the flesh
,

downw ard i nto the larger masses o f flesh on the shoulders .

A lotion I have k n own to be used with success for the

melting awa y o f t oo ponderous flesh ab ou t the neck is
thi s "
Tincture o f io d ine 3 0 minims ; iodi d e o f potassium 60
, ,

grains ; hyposulphite o f soda 2 0 grains ; distille d water 7

, ,

ounces ; aniseed water 1 70 minims , .

B e careful no t t o tamper wit h and so enlarge the large

gla n ds I n t he nec k Enlarging them may permanently dis
.

figure a beautiful neck They are the danger points o f the

.

manipulation It is they and t he gorged veins that give to

.

a neck that age d withere d app earance which we d esc r ib e

,
”
by the word ropey Once these glands are enlarged and
.

the veins swollen ther e is no ar t in beauty lor e t o diminish

them Perhaps a physician can reduce their size b u t I hav e
.
,

never k n ow n it to be achieved .

F o r t he aged neck there is almost no hop e Mme

“
. .

S a r ah B ernhardt r ealized this and while c ombating all the

,

other sign s of her increasing years yielded to the demands ,

o f the neck that was no longe r young an d covered it T he , .

colla rless gown is not fo r her Always she wears a high .

n ecked gown o r i f circumstances require a costume d é

, , ,

co llet é she wears a ribb on o f v elvet o r a collar o f j ewel s

,

ab out her throat .

F o r b at tling again st the agei ng neck I ca n give no b et ter

 TO M A KE Y O U R N ECK B E A U T I FU L 43

recip e than this fo r a massage cre am which should be ,

plenti fu ll y a p plie d ni ght an d morning "

Glycerine 5 ounces, ; m u tton tallow 1 pound ; tinct u re o f ,

ben z oin 2 d rams ; spirits of campho r 1 dram ; pow d ered

, ,

alum V2 dram ; orange fl o wer water I dram ; Russian

,
,

isinglass 2 ounces ,
.

I f the neck is thin b u t the v eins an d glan d s a r e not en

,

larg ed ther e i s hop e

,
The skin mus t be fe d b y cold creams
.

an d the circulation promoted by massag e The rotar y m o .

tion with the first thre e fi ngers o f each han d is the de

sirable one Fifteen minutes Should be spent night and
.

morning in this massage O ne nourishing massage cream .

especially excellent f or the neck is this

O il o f sweet almon d s 10 grams ; lanolin 1 5 grams ; , ,

tannin V2 gram,
.

A success ful fattening cream for the neck cont ains

Alcohol ( 9 5 per cent ) 2 0 grams ; lar d o r cocoa butter , ,

100 grams ; essence o f rosemary 12 d rops ; essence o f he r ,

gamo t 12 d rops
, .

A thir d an d most important essential is t h at the skin o f

t he ne c k be white and so ft T o s ecu re this effect o n e must
.
,

as you s ay in America start r ight ”

First prevent stains
,
.

upon the nec k .

A staine d neck i s a l ways a revo l ting sight A dark .

,

shadow y rim a b out the neck may have been c ause d by dark
colla r s an d ther e may hav e been valiant e fforts to remove it ,

but if th e y hav e not been successful I beseech you wear only

high neck e d collars u ntil the s tai n is removed The casual
- ~
.

o bs e r v e r at a d inner or a b all will mak e no allowance for the

cause the stain communicating collar o f colored net o r some

,
-

other fabric To him y ou r neck will be soiled That i s all

. .

and that is very much .

T o prev e nt such stain s avoi d w e aring d ark col o rs next to

the neck I f the d ark collar is unavoidabl e then line it with
.
44 MY S ECRET S O F BEAU T Y
something so ft an d white old muslin o r part o f an O ld silk ,

handkerchief .

But ha ving a cq uire d the d ark sha d owy look a bo ut the

, ,

n eck that is s o repellent remove it as so o n a s possible A .

thorough sponging with peroxide o f hydrogen full strength , ,

followed immediately by another bath o f ros e water I have ,

found excellent .

Or there may be f r e quent baths with this p reparation ,

which is admirable for bleaching "

Glyceri n e I ounce ; rosewater I ou n ce ; carbolic acid 10
, , ,

d r ops ; tincture o f benzoin 1 0 drops , .

This home remedy is useful when less drastic re medies

are n o t at han d
One— half lemo n ; o ne small tumbler o f water S quee z e .

the lemon j uice into the glass B ath e the neck freque n tly .

with t he mixture .

For those and there are man y among them experts who
, , ,

do not wish to use t he peroxide o f hyd r ogen full strength ,

I woul d r ecommend "

Peroxide o f hydrogen V2 wineglass w i t chhaz el
‘

, ,

wi neglass .

To bleach a neck that is too oily this used once a day fo r

t hree successive days is hel p ful
Rosewate r V2 wineglass ; ammonia 5 drops U se this
,
“

, .

sp ari ngly fo r the action of ammonia upon the skin is to

,

make it exceeding ly dry .

The woman who woul d hav e a beautiful n eck m u st co n

si de r it ev e n in r epos e S he should nev e r u s e a high pillow
“

.
,

pre f e rably no p i llo w at all F o r whe n the head rests U po n .

the p illo w the chin falls u po n the breast The muscles o f

,
.

the neck are cont racted w rinkle s are form e d and muscles,

become flabby L ying on the back is th e best po sture for

.

slee p ing The muscles of the neck are thus given fu ll p lay
.
'

an d rest .

Many times I am asked If you had a mole on t he neck

46 M Y S E C RET S OF BEAU T Y
E qu al parts o f lemon j u ice an d water .

Wate r , pint ; ammonia I d ram

, .

St ill an o ther reme d y is to s crub the nec k with a s o ft com

ple xi on brush dip pe d int o a wa r m l ather o f C astile s oap with
a few dr o ps of ammo n i a a d ded .

In summer when the neck beco mes ta nned an d blistere d

by t he sun massage it with a pu re cold cream and bathe it
,

fr eq uently with a mild s ol u tio n o f p eroxi d e o f h yd r ogen

.
 C HA P TE R III

T H I N GS T O DO F O R TH E E Y E S , EA R S A N D N OS E

S with all other parts the bo d y the beauty o f th e

of ,

eyes depends upon their health and their health d e ,

pends u po n care T he eyes ha v e two arch enemies They

. .

a r e fatigu e an d d u s t To keep the eyes beautifu l on e mus t

.

avoid the one and sh u n the other .

D o n ot read t o o much I ne v er read at night Artificial

. .

ligh t destroys the luster o f the eyes At nigh t w e con .

s tant ly strain t he eyes to g e t more light a n d the strain ,

makes a network o f fine lines about the eyes N ever read .

o n the train ,no matter how lo ng the j ou rney It is five .

days from New York to S an Francisco and many perso n s ,

make that j ourney several ti mes a year But if they h ave .

regard fo r the beauty o f their eyes they take n o magazines

o r books on the train with them and they buy none o n the

way It is quite as goo d a men tal exercise to sp end the

.

time o n a railroad j ou r ney thinking o f what you have read ,

an d o f what you have learned in reading the book o f lif e ,

as to read somethi n g new and it is a thousand times better

,

fo r the eyes . At its best a railwa y j ourney is a seve r e tax

upo n the eyes as upon the ne r v es an d the complexi o n I .

spe n d as much o f the time as possible in a reclining posi

tio n with my eyes closed .

When the j our n ey is at its en d I send at once fo r a solu

t ion o f adre n alin .The proporti o n s and qua n tity o f the
solution I always leave to the d r uggist I would not take .

the resp onsibility o f prescribing the amount for mysel f and ,

s o will not for an o ther Adrenalin is derived from the

.

47
4 8 MY S ECRET S O F BEAU T Y
supra renal glands o f animals A solution o f it applied
-
.

frequently to the eyes rests the m a fter a seve re strain I .

know o f nothing more r efreshi n g and immediately r eju v en at

in g but I insist that it must be used only after a physicia n
,

has prescribed or by the advice o f the pharmacist w ho will

, ,

tell you what under the ci r cumsta n ces is a safe solution .

I said I d o n ot read too much An hour a n d a hal f a .

day and that at t w o o r three Sitti ngs instead o f c o n

, ,

t i nuo u sly is e n ough , Close study o f a p ri n ted page is dan

.

g e r o u s to t h e eyes and to other attractive features of a

woman s face ’
.

Fo r the sake o f the beauty o f the eyes and there i s n o

greater beauty — I utter now a di ff ere n t war n i n g I f you .

would have beautiful eyes don t dri n k too much A glass ’

.

and a half o f wine at a meal is enough A pint of wi n e a .

day is all that any woman who wishes to be beautiful should

p e r mit hersel f and that only if
,
s h e has been accustomed t o

drinking wine T oo muc h drinking makes the eyes blood

.

shot It co n gests the bloo d vessels i n them causi n g dis

.
,

figuring little red streaks in the whites of the eyes It causes .

also a congested condition that i n fl ame s the li n i ng o f the

lids .

Wh en the eyes are ti r ed the thing to do is to rest Go .

to y ou r r oom Loosen you r cl othes Lie upo n your back

. .

and place upon you r eyes a hot compress Make the com .

p ress i n this way "

O n e gill rosewater ; one gill witch hazel Heat this mix .

ture and when it is nearly at the boiling point dip i n to it a

ba n dage o f soft li n en o r o f absorbe n t cotto n a n d press this
, ,

upon the eyes .

S o metimes a f r iend o f mine points to her yellow eyeballs

“ ”
and says What shall I o to make them white
d " I
a n swer " You a r e bilious You must cleanse the liver
.

and the stomach A physician o r a pha r macist can best

.

tell you ho w to do this But if you d o not wish to go to

.
 F OR THE EYE S EAR S ,
A ND NO S E 49

either try a semi — fast Eat only hal f as much at each meal
.

as you have been doi n g and drink water freely We need

, .

three quarts o f water a day to keep the body in health If .

the system has reached such a condition that the eyeballs

a r e yello w then that quantity should b e increased by o ne
hal f Water drinking is a necessity that should become a
.

fixed habit .

Every morning at rising w e Should d r ink at least tw o

glassfuls o f cold but not ice wate r I f the stomach is ve r y
, .

delicate it would be better that the water were warm If .

cold it should be sipped not tossed o ff at a draught because

, ,

by the time it reaches the stomach it should be as warm

as the lining o f the stomach its el f t o p revent chilli n g that ,

import ant organ Throughout the day a good deal could

.

be dru n k a n d the remai n de r shoul d be dru n k in a leisurely

way at night It is well u n der the most ordinary ci r
.

c u mst an c es to drink two or three glasses o f water before

retiring F o r the woman with the yellow eyeballs a hal f

.

teaspoon ful o f bicarbo n ate o f soda o r o f pulv erize d charcoal

could be tak en to advantage I n a glass o f the water at m o rn
ing or night Also I should advise for this w o man exercise
.

o u t o f doors .

For the d aily ca re o f the eyes there s h o u ld be two baths .

The bo d y must have its bath The face must have its clea ns .

ing Why not the eye espec ially as the eye with its thick
.
, ,

lid and the fringe o f eyelashes is a dust trap and the , ,

slightest s p eck of dust all o wed to remain b e neath the lid

may cause infla mmation o f the lid an d irritation O f the eye .

F o r the eye s da i ly bath I o ffer yo u the choice o f s everal

’

lotions My favo rite is "

.

Te n ounce s purest rosewate r A p p ly wit h an eyecup .

,

turni ng the eyecu p upside d o wn so that the hal f O pen eye

is completely washed by the contents of the cup Hold it .

thus for thirty seconds o r if not uncom fortable a full , , ,

-

min u te Throw away this rosewater Rinse the glass an d

. .
5 0 MY S ECRET S O F BEA U T Y
give the eye a seco n d bath I f the eyes are irritate d the .

bath can be repeate d severa l times Ordinarily a bath in .

the morning on rising an d another at night o n retiring are

enough .

One ounce eld erflo wer w ater S om e o f my fri en d s w h o .

have beautiful eyes prefer this to rosewater It is e qually .

goo d Apply it in the same way

. .

Another excellen t eyebath is

One half ounce witch hazel ; o ne half ounce distilled
- -

water S hake well in bottle and apply with an eyecup

. .

One other bath is ex cellent "

S ix d r ops boracic acid ; o n e wineglass distilled water .

S h ake well b efo re ap plying .

S alt has its adv ocates Certainly salt is stimulating to .

tired eyes but I would only u se it in emergencies Then

, .

o nce a day be fore retiring as follows

,

A pinch o f salt i n an eyecu p of cold water U se with .

the eyecup Also bath e t he lids with a bit o f cotton d ipped

.

int o the salt water .

A bath o f bora x water is benefi cial and has the ad

vantage o f always being convenient Even whil e t r av eli n g .

one may carry a b ox o f bor ax F uthermor e it is safe b e .

, ,

cause borax will only for m a four per cent solution that is .
, ,

fou r per cent o f it only will b e absorb e d by wat e r A

. .

b orax bath is s t ren gthen ing I f the e y e s he deli cat e or the

.

p e rson so p rej udiced aga inst experim en ts th at she is no t

wi lling to i n troduce thi s substanc e into the eye s, a s ilk s po nge
or a so ft cloth dippe d into bo r ax w at e r an d presse d u p on
the e yelids i s effi c ac i ou s soothing
‘
x
.
,

The old fashioned home remedy o f cold tea l eav e s p ressed

upon the lids has value no t from the t ea leave s intri nsica lly
, ,

but from the cool moist contact Cloths dipped in water are
,
.

quite as goo d .

Whatever re d uc es the fe v e r and inflammation in eyelids

make s f or the b eauty o f the eyes A nd her e a word o f .
 F OR THE E Y E S , E AR S A ND N O S E 5 1

warning I f the lids bec o me granular that is i f tiny lumps

.
, ,

form inside the li n i n g o f the eyelid d o n t attempt to cur e ,

’

the m y oursel f Giv e yoursel f over to a physician s care

.
’
.

There i s nothing more disfigur i n g o r dangerous t o the

eyes than t hese irritating little lumps They are caused .

by eye strain and i f the strain b e removed the gra n ules are
likely to disappear I f however the cas e is far advanced
.
, ,

i t needs medical treatment .

A s the greatest enemy o f the bea u ty o f the eyes is strain ,

so the greatest f r iend is rest I f my eyes were l o sing their .

brightness I should first O f all rest B u t rest may be take n .

,

to use the d r uggist s phrase in small doses

’ ”
I f I am too
,
.

muc h engaged to go into a dark ro om and rest fo r d ays I can

at least rest my eyes by taking extra Sle ep From the stand .

poi n t O f beauty every o n e shoul d retire b efore twelve to ,

give the eyes sufficient r est .

And t he re are twenty chances a d ay t o cl o s e the eyes for

a few minutes S ay five minutes at a time and twenty
m
.
,

ti es There w e have o n e hundred minutes Those

. .

chances can be taken o n the S ubway the L trains or in ,

the surface cars O ften have I seen a man o n a trai n a d

.

mire a young woman fo r the demu r e d owncast glance o f her ,

eye H e thinks that is o ne o f her i n dividual lures S illy

. .

man The girl does n t know he exists

. S he is merely tak
’
.

ing an eye r est When you a r e bathing your face when

.
,

you are ma ssaging it when you are brushi n g y o u r hair

, ,

while you a r e bei n g manicured o r pedicured — there are

cou n tless O pp ortunities to give the eyes the rest they need .

Try it for three days and the results will ama z e yo u .

Never use preparations in o r upon the eyes unless you ,

h ave them analyzed Do not count th e cost o f analysis

. .

What are a few American dollars or French francs o r

Ita lian lire compared with beauty "
Neve r u se any toi let articl e without such analysis And .

e ven a fter yo u ha v e use d the preparation fo r a time it is

5 2 MY S E C R ET S O F BEA U T Y
wise to ag ain submit it to another a n alysis fo r when an ,

article has secured i ts vogue th r ough excellence I am so r ry

t o say that m anu facture r s o fte n times i n c r ease t hei r p r ofits
by cheape n ing the ingredients and adulte rating the articl e .

The sur r oundings of the eyes are as importa n t as the eyes

themselves Keep li n es away from the eyes by keepi n g the m
.

well rested Also massage lightly about t hem for four o r

.

five minutes Never lo n ger because to o much massage will

.
,

tire the exceedi n gly delicate muscles about the eyes a n d

cause them to s ag Massage them at retiring with any good
.

cold c r eam .

Rub wit h light rotary motion with the tips o f the seco n d ,

and thi r d fingers outward a n d away from the co r ne r s o f

,

the eyes With the same fi ngers stroke the muscles that
.

lie along the upper edge o f the cheekbo ne The st r oke .

should be a slow sweepi n g o n e from the lower co rn e r o f

,

the eye to the edge o f the hair li n e Never touch the soft .
,

flabby skin beneath the eyes It will make w r inkles A . .

third valuable stroke is above a n d alo n g the uppe r edge o f

,

the eyebrows It is most soothi n g and rest ful

. .

The eyelashes depe n d for their le ngt h and beauty upon

the conditio n o f the eyelids Do not allo w them to become
.

i n flamed I f they are i r ritated the lashes will be weake n ed

.

a n d will stop growi n g or will fall out T o make them

,
.

grow long and evenly they should be clipped two o r th r ee

times a year .

I f the eyelashes gr ow thin o r u n eve n ly it may be because

the eyes are strained a n d the lids i n flamed To r emedy .

such a co n dition I recomme n d either o f the followi ng

prescriptions
Rosewater 1 3 glass ; witch ha zel 2 glass Warm a n d
'

- 1
.
, ,

apply by opening the eye when covered by the glass ful of

the mixture t hus giving the eye a thorough bath
,
.

Camphor water 1 ounce ; powdered bo r ax 3 grai n s i n

, ,

fusion o f sassafras pith 2 o unces Apply with an eye

-
,
.
54 M Y S EC R ET S O F BEAU T Y
o mme n d them In themselves hai r dyes are likely to b e
.

inj urious The applicati o n o f o ne o f them to the eyel ashe s

.

by an unsteady han d might permanently inj ure the eyes .

Eyelashes are o ften too light because they are faded To .

restore them to their o rigi n al color clippi ng the ends car e

,

fully and slightly eve r y t w o mo n ths may st r engthen and

stimulate and s o darken them This pomade is in common
.

use in France
Red vaseline I ounce ; tincture o f ca n tharides V2 dram ;
, ,

oil o f lavender 8 drops ; o i l o f rosemary 8 d r ops A pply

, , .

w i th the u tmos t c ar e s o tha t n o n e of i t g e ts i n to the ey es .

I f yo ur eyelids are encrusted when you wake up in the

mor n i n g don t attempt to remove the incrustations u n til you
’

have moistened them with a lotion from your eye c up The .

best o n e for this purpose is made by dissolving a n ounce o f

bo racic acid in a pi n t o f rosewater .

S tyes are ugly an d disfiguring In their first stages they

.

can be removed by applyi n g ethereal collodion with a camel s ’

hair b r ush I f the con dition has progressed far a tiny

.
,

fl ax see d poultice so o n brings it to the ripe stage afte r ,

which it c an be la n ced by an o r dina ry needle t hat has been ,

sterilized by passi n g it through fi re

, .

I f your eyeb r ows are straggly and uneven and in places ,

ve ry thin use an eyebrow brush twice a day Every mo rn

,
.

i ng and eve n ing b rush the brows giving them at least ,

twe n ty fiv e strokes each and being careful t o brush in the

-

direction you wa n t them to grow In this way yo u can do .

much to cultivate the beautiful arch I t will als o remove .

the dandru ff that is likely to accumulat e about the eyebrows .

Massaging the brows at night with lano lin is also help ful .

The greatest menace to a busines s girl s beauty is th at ’

o f eye strai n The danger that this eye strain will produce
.

wrinkles between her eyebrows will inflame the li d s and

,

cause the eyelashes to fall ou t an d will dim the b r ightnes s

,

o f the eyes and pro duce t h e tire d expression o f the O l d or

 F OR THE EYE S EAR S ,
A ND N O S E 55

of th ose who are devitalize d by age o r o v erwork is great .

These t en dhnc i es s he must balance by greater care t han

the woman in er home gives to her eyes S ince the strain .

du r ing business hou fs is excessive she shoul d n ot a dd to t h at

,

the further strain o f reading o n trains o r b y lamplight This .

will caus e s o me intellectuals to c ry o u t " L a Cavalieri

”
would empty o u r girls heads No but the purpose o f
’
.
,

these articles is to reveal b eauty secrets an d o ne o f the ,

secrets o f beauty i s to keep the eyes clear bright and u n ,

tired There fore I repeat that th e beauty in business mus t

.
,

not read o n the moving train N o r must s he rea d by lamp .

light The best use sh e can make o f he r eyes fo r beauty s

.
’

sake while upon a train is to clos e them and he r broth ers o r ,

Sisters would better read to he r at nigh t .

S he can save the strain upon h e r eyes by closing them for

a few sec o nds at a time s everal times a d ay They as well .

as h er face must hav e their daily bath better two daily ,

baths one in the morning and one in th e evening T he

, .

baths may be o f e q ual parts o f witch hazel an d warm wate r ,

o r o f warm water into which a hal f dozen grains o f boric

,

acid have been sprinkled o r a full cup ful o f rose water

,
.

And the girl who would keep her eyes beautif u l mus t
h ave ple n ty of sleep S he should sleep at least eight hours
.

a day more i f her system requires it I f she can take a

,
.

quarter o r hal f an hour s nap after coming home fro m b u si

’

ness and before her evening meal o r befo re going to the

theater o r a dance she will fi nd her tire d eyes h a v e r e
,

gained much o f their luster .

B efore I finish m y advice about t he ey es I mus t not

forget to give still anoth er formula w h ich i s exc ellent for
bathing them
S alt V2 grain ; sulphat e o f zinc V2 grain ; rosewater 4
, , ,

ounces Mix with an e q ual quantity o f water and apply

.

wi th an eye cup .

The eyes tire most easily in summer and that is when they
5 6 MY S ECRET S O F BEA U T Y
shoul d be given an extra amount o f rest an d attention Rest .

them from the glare o f white country roads by wearing

smoked glasses Rest them by giving up the dist r actingly
.

becoming but eyes torturing crossbar r ed myriad dott ed veil

-
, , .

Read little P ersuade your beaux your little sisters o r your

.
,

maids o r poor relations to read to you Close your eyes .

while you listen Do n t read i n a hammock n o r o n a lounge

.
’
.

Do n t read on a train Don t read in a r oom dimly lighted

’
.
’

s o that it will keep cool

”
Rest the ti r ed eyes by plenty
.

o f sleep at night an d a n after n oo n nap .

B athe the eyes n ight a n d mo rn ing with witch hazel a n d

warm water mixed in equal parts ; or with an ou n ce of
,

boracic acid i n a pi n t o f r ose water .

U s e an eye cup turni n g the eye upward and op e n ing it

,

s o that it will be laved by the contents o f the c u p When _

.

wipi n g the eyes u s e a soft cloth oil li n en or silk and wip e , ,

the lids toward not away from the nose This will help
, , .

to p reve n t the wri n kles about the eyes also the wri n kli n g of ,

the eyelids themselves .

For hot ti r ed eyes Mme Recamier used to apply a lotio n

,
.

made by pouri n g over d r ied rose leaves a qua n tity O f water

o f twice their bulk I f the eyes a r e ve r y i n flamed washing
.

them in equal parts o f witch hazel and camphor water will

be fou n d be n eficial .

Fo r gra n ular lids ma n y pastes have been recommended .

My advice is to seek o u t a reliable physicia n a n d have the

eyes exami n ed and his p rescription filled .

A cold in the eye is most a nn oying and liable to be

”

expe n sive You get up in the mor n i n g look i n the glass

— —
.
, ,

and find that o n e o f your eyes o r maybe both looks

much i n flamed If you do n othing about it the condition
.
,

may not pass away fo r a n umber o f days a n d mea n while ,

you a r e more o r less disabled .

Very possibly in some ala r m you go to see the oculist

, ,
.
 FOR THE E Y E S E A R S, AND
,
NOSE 57

He frightens yo u at once by telling you that it is c on

ju n c t i v i t i s a lo n g wo r d which means simply inflammation
o f the membrane that covers the eye He puts some drops .

in the eye and tells you to come back the next day Y o u
, .

a r e fi n ally cured and the bill comes t o $ 1 5 o r $2 5

, .

’
That is well enough Perhaps you don t mind the bill
'

.
,

o r the trouble of goi n g t o the doctor s B ut it i s likely t hat

’
.

you would be less satisfie d if y ou knew that y ou could easil y

have cured yoursel f much q uicke r and with ou t any ex
pense at all .

I f you have a cold in y o u r eye you can get rid o f it ,

within a few ho u rs by bathing the eye freely and o ften with

a solution made by putting tw o d r ops O f fo rmaline into a
‘

teacup ful o f water The fo rmaline you can buy at any drug
.

store I t may be used with an eye d ropper or an eye bath

.
- -

either o f which can be had f rom the drugstore But it is .

even more e ffective to allow somebo dy else to pour it i n to

the eye by squeezi n g agai n and again a rag o r p iece o f cot
ton saturated with it .

A cold in the eye is nothing in the worl d b ut a germ

infection Fo r maline kills the germs But do n t u se for
. .
’

maline in any stro n ger solution th an two drops to the tea

cup ful I f you get it into you r eye in a pure state you
.
,

might destroy the sight A t the l east y ou w o ul d su ff er

.
,

fright ful pain .

Incide n tally it may be sai d that the best eye water known -

to oculists for the treatment o f sore eyes o r lids is made

by mixi n g ten g r ains o f boracic acid and five grai n s o f
ta nnic acid with one drachm o f camphor water and enough
ordi n ary water to make a total of o ne ounce The ingre .

di e n t s are cheap purchase d from the apothecary an d yo u

, ,

c an prepa r e them yourself i f o u care to

y .

When not due to over i n dulgence in alcohol an ex c es

s i v ely red nose is usually the result o f indigestion o r cloth
5 8 MY S ECRET S O F BEA U T Y
ing that is too tight In the first stages o f the trouble
.

P arisians bathe the un fortunate featu re frequently with this ,

recommended by Dr Vigier " .

Distilled water 5 0 grams ; rosewater 5 0 grams ; tincture

, ,

o f benzoin I gram ; sulphate o f potassi u m 1 gram

, , .

I f it has become ch ronic this massaged freely into the

, ,

a ffected organ is recommen d e d by M Andres Valdes

, .
-

R e c ti fi e d alcohol 8 grams ; pure glycerine 8 grams ; pre

, ,

c i p it at e d chalk 8 grams ; cherry laurel water 8 grams ; pre

, ,

c i p i tat e o f sulphur 8 grams , .

The e ar is the most neglected part o f the head That .

a pair o f ears stand out unduly from the face making wh at ,

o n e o f your American artists term the accessories of the

face more p rominent t han the countenance itsel f most

, ,

parents regard as a wise v isitation of Providence o r ignore ,

it Or i f the ears are S O j ammed against the head that

.

one can not see them without an e ffort that too is liabl e , , ,

to be overlooked by pare nts not by anyone else w ho sees ,

the child who is a victim to the malformation .

’
B e as care ful to frame your child s face well as you are
to frame a picture so that its colors are best thrown into
,

relief S ome mothers are artists in the matter o f the ar

.

’
rangement o f the child s hair and when this is becomingly ,

do n e they think their duty done T he ears are neglected . .

If they stand ou t prominently from the head they can

be trai n ed especially in childhood back into the relation
, ,

they should bear to the head An ear har n ess made o f .

strong cotton tape is made for this purpo se and should be

worn at night by children or adults who need it It is far .

better o f course to use it i n childhood when the ca r tilage

, , ,

that forms the outer part o f the ear is more plastic but it ,

is more o r less efficacious after you have reached you r full

growth It is certainly well worth trying
. .

If the ear is packed closely against the hea d train it o u t

ward by gentle massage and light pulling done by yoursel f , .
 F OR THE E Y E S EAR S
,
A ND N O S E 59

Y ou are the best j udge o f whethe r the pulling h u rts If it .

does stop I f the ears ar e less than the normal si z e they

, .

can be enlarged by the same process .

An earache that canno t be quickl y relieve d b y placing

loose warm bandages over it shoul d be b ro ught at once to
,

the doctor s attention fo r a persistent earache is often the

’
,

forerunner o f serious conditions especially o f d eafness ,

.

I f you r ears are delicate riding in the tunnels may be ,

p e rmanently inj urious to them The greatly increase d pres .

sure o f air under the r ivers is a menace to the eardrum ;

may caus e it to burst an d bring about incurable deafness .

You d o not kn ow perhaps that chronic an d severe dis

, ,

e ases o f the ear o ften b egin in the nose o r throat Where .

fore you are taking care o f the ear when yo u keep t h e th r oat
and the nasal passages free f rom obstacles Gargling the .

throat every morning is a measure fo r health and c leanli

nes s th at no one shoul d neglect A tables po on ful of salt in .

a glass o f warm water o r a pinch o f bor ax in the sam e

,

q uantity o f water will s e rve well B ut I am inclined to

,
.

the later belie f that no o ne Should do uche the nose except

by the d octor s order The liqui d you use fo r the douch e
’
.

might carry germs o f d isease into the back o f the hea d and
cause a general infection while they might d isappear in the ,

na t u ral wa y if there w e re no interferenc e with nat u re s ’

plan of ca r ry ing away inva d ers o f the hea d I f the no se .

is in heal thy condition it secr etes a pin t o f li qu i d ev e ry day

a nd is n at u re s adequate channel for clearing the h e a d
’
.

B u t the e ar must not be encourage d no r allow ed long

to run ”
A c h ronic disc h arge from th e ear i s a seriou s
.

con d ition and may have a fatal end Hasten with it to a .

physician L i fe insurance companies knowing how serious

.
,

this i s will never insu r e the lives o f persons with running

,

ears .

Doctors generally advise us not t o try to remove the wa x

f rom the ears T hey s ay that if we let the ear alone the
.
,
60 MY S ECRET S OF BEAU T Y
wa x will finally form into a ha r d little ball and d rop out
without assistance They advise us not to put cott on into
.

the ears unless Specially advised to by a reliable physician ,

who will never give the advice unless the need is imperative .

The y forbid p o ultici n g o r syringing the ears without special

advice and they are quite right in warning against the i n
,

discrimi n ate use of ear drops B etter rega r d the i n ner

.

pa r t of the ear as inviolate S o too the outer except for

.
, , ,

keepi n g the folds clean In the cleaning do not handle the

.

ear roughly Remov e the dust from the folds of the ear
.

with a so ft cl o th soap and water B e careful to i m

, .

mediately a n d thoroughly dry them If you leave the neck .

o r hair about the ears wet or chilled the earache or neu

r alg i a that will follow may lead to d eafness .

’
Never box a child s ears ; it may caus e a rupture Do .

’
n o t pull a child s ears lest inj ury follow
,
B e su r e to have .

the adenoids removed Adenoids i n children are a cause

.

o f ear troubles among many others Physicians no w b e

,
.

lieve that s ea Sickness is du e to ear disturbances

-
.
62 M Y S EC R E T S O F BEAU T Y
the fi rst . C arry your mu ff f rom October t o Ap ril I ,

said to t he second And when they ha d promised I having

.
,

sternly exacted t h at essen tial thing I s et about removing ,

the ugliness T he fi rst aid was to Show the m the right way
.

to wash t heir han d s N ot one p e rson in fi fty k nows how to

.

wash the han d s .

T he water shoul d be t epid I f it is what is known as .

h ar d water it may be so ftene d with a little borax say one ,

t easpoonful to a q uart o f water O r i f possible it would .

, ,

be well to u s e distilled water since borax m u st be used with

,

discretion .

Then dip i n to the water a cake o f the best soap A .

scented soap is not necessarily a bad soap S o I try va r ious .

kinds liking o ne but s eeking another that is better When

, , .

I have dipped the soap into the water long enough to ma ke

a dainty lat h e r I plunge my hands i n t o i t .

Then I dr y them but onl y partly upon a s o ft linen towel

, , .

B e fore the han d s have time to d ry and especially before ,

they have time to chill I take from my toilet Shelf or medi

,

cin e chest a bottle o f my favorite ha n d cleanser The bot .

tle may be large or small but the proportions o f the mixt u re

,

I keep always the same Here is ho w it is mad e .

Hy d rated glycerine ( glyceri n e mixed with water ) I ,

tablespoonful ; any favorite p erfume ( mine is Italian pink ) .

3 drops .

R ub t h e hands thoroughly with this Rub is not a strong .

enough word for the p r ocess I t does not suggest the thor .

o ughn e s s o f the process S ay rather wash your hands in

.
,

it T en minutes is none too long for washing the hands

.
.

F iv e minute s shoul d be given t o the water five to the ,

glycerin e bath Then dry thoroughl y wi th a towel O h

.
.

serv e how so f t yo u r hands are after such a bath an d you

will be surp r ised and delighted with this treatment .

I am aware that there is som e prej udice against glycerine .

Woul d b e a utho r iti es will rise and say that gl yc e rin e burns
-
 A N NA H E LD
T he f asc i n a t i n g b e au ty of he r e ye s is fa m o u s t he w or ld ove r
.
 KEE P I N G HAND S A N D A RM S YO U N G 63

an exceedingly delicate skin that it i s an irritant in some

cases S o it i s T he person w ho uses it must be a j udge
. .

o f that herself It has always agreed with my hands

.
,

making them so ft and white and supple But fo r those .

whose hands burn and itch a fter using it there is this lotion
for occasional not regular u s e for I am opposed to a to o
, , ,

free use o f p e r oxide o f hydr ogen

P eroxide o f hydrogen wineglass witch hazel
,
wine ,

glass ; always shake well be fore using .

I Should n o t advise this o ftener than three times a week ,

at most And I should vary it with rubbing with oli v e o i l

.
,

which is o f especial v alue to thin hands A few w eeks o f .

u sing it will result in a pe rceptible plumpening o f them .

O r to whiten an d soften the hands this has many adv o

, ,

cates and I s e e no obj ection to its occasional use A m

, .

monia is too powerful for regular use

O live oil 1 wineglass ; ammonia 6 d rops
, , .

B u t to assure beautiful hands and that in the sho rt es t ,

possible time massage the m with a simple co ld c r eam and

,

wear rubbe r gloves at night But the gloves should be at .

least two Sizes larger than the 5 % o r 6 you wear in kids ,

an d they shoul d b e punctured as freely as the top of a

p epper b o x Ventilation
. is necessa ry to the healt h o f t he

han d s and o f the owne r o f the hands .

F o r a cold crea m fo r the hands fo r the night t oilet I

should advis e this mixture "
S pe rmaceti 2 ounces ; white wax 1 ounce ; almon d o i l
, , ,

2 gills .

There are two pastes that are excellent to b e u se d as a

night cosme ti c with gloves
Rosewater 6 ounces ; hone y 4 ounces ; yellow beesw ax
, , ,

2 ounces ; myrrh I ounce , .

This c an be prepared at home i f yo u desire Melt the , .

wax S tir the pow d ered myrrh while hot Add the honey
. .

and rosewater d ro p by d rop I f the preparati o n seems t o

, .
64 MY S ECRET S OF BE AU T Y
be a bit t oo thick to handle comfortably th i n it with a few
drops of hyd r ated glyceri n e .

Anothe r delightful paste has the following ingredients

Tincture o f benzoin 2 d r ams ; fresh yolks of eggs 2, ,

drams ; rice flour 1 dram rose wate r I ounce ; o il o f sweet

, ,

a lmonds 2 drams ; glyce r i n e I dram

, , .

This is a home p reparati o n and because o f the peris hable

natu r e o f the eggs can only be kept for a few days .

N ow as to how to ma ss age the h ands F o r the face a .

rotary motion but fo r the hands a le n gthwise o n e I c an

, .

best describe the massage for the hands by summoning you r

imagination Fancy that you are wearing a pair o f gloves
.
.

for the first time That y ou have accu r ately fitted the fi n
.

gers and tha t you have now o n ly t o s ee that the glove fits
smoothly upon the back o f the hands Y ou stroke the back .

of the right hand gently but firmly wi th the fi ngers of the , ,

left and the left hand w ith t he fingers o f the right D o

, .

this at least twenty times for each han d Then lightly .

pinch the ends o f each finger p ressi n g the si d es o f the fi n ,

gers between the thumb and second finger .

S ome excessively nervous o r anaemic persons are an

n oyed by cold moist clammy hands,
This is a remedy tha t
,
.

is safe and e fficacious "

Tannic acid 1 0 grains ; tincture o f be nzoin yz ounce ;
, ,

elder flower wate r 3 ou n ces ; rosewater 6 ounces

, , .

I f there is a stro n g obj ectio n t o soap try the liquid ,

sort I f you r obj ectio n persists then substitute fine al mond

.

meal a handful for one cleansing o f the hands Tincture

,
.

o f ben z oin is als o a good softe n i n g age n t for the water and ,

its o d or is refreshing Four drops to a quart o f tepid water

.

are su fficient .

Ho w can I hav e nice white hands though I d o my o w n , ,

work " ”
This is the p r oblem ma n y housewives continually
face By wearing loose gloves as muc h as possible about
.

your work By thoroughl y drying your hands a fter wash

.
 KEE P I N G H A N D S A ND A R MS YO U N G 65

ing th em o r better still by washing them agal n be f ore they

, , ,

are drie d in ,

Glycerine I ounce ; lemon j uice I ounce

, , .

The beauty o f the h ands s u ff ers in di fferen t ways at d i f

fe r ent times o f year In winter the col d winds frequentl y
.

chap them F or this d isagreeable condition I have used

.

with goo d res u lts a lo tion ma d e as follows

Glycerine 1 ounce ; spirits o f wine I ounce ; violet ex
, ,

tract I ounce P ou r over the hands a fter washi n g

, . .

I f the chapping has ma d e the han d s too se n sitive to bear

the glyc erine t ry t hi s ,

Oil o f almonds 1 o u nce ; lime water I fluid ounce ; bo rax

, , ,

6 g r ains .

In summer the ha n ds an d arms o ften su ffer a s much i f

not mo r e than the face f r om the su n s burn ing rays Here ’
.

is a lotio n which will cool the m and reduce their unlovely

redness
Lem o n j uice 1 ounce ; st r ained honey 1 ounce ; cologne
, , ,

1 ounce .

I f the sunburn results i n freckles apply with a small

sponge or a bit o f abso rbe n t cotton o r a ca mel s hai r brus h ’

the following
P owdered borax V2 dram ; sugar 2 d r am ; lemon j uice
I
, , ,

I ounce .

Here is still another remedy which answers the purpose

as well as the ones j ust described "
Muriate o f a mmo n ia dram ; lave n der water 1 ounce ;
, ,

distilled water 4 ounces , .

For a mild case o f freckles here is a simple remedy th a t

will o ften p rove su ffi cie n t
P eroxide of hydrogen I ounce ; ammonia 1 0 drops , ,
.

Apply with a camel s hai r brush ’

.

O f no part of the body is it quite s o true that c u rv es ar e

the lines o f beauty as it is of the arms and sho ul d ers A .

lovely woman in an evening gown always reminds me o f a .

66 MY S ECRET S OF BEA U T Y
beautiful b ouquet rising o u t o f a v ase T he woman s hea d .
’

and shoulders and arms are the fl o w ers the gown and the ,

rest of her body the v ase Fancy a bo uquet with one fresh.
,

purple pansy in the center and all about it withered yellow

flowers It is not a pleasant picture even in fancy but that
.
,

i s precisely how the woman with a charming face and u n

lovely arms and shoulders looks .

B eautiful sh o ulde r s must first o f all be symmetrical

shoulders They must be j ust b road en ough to balance
.

finely the fi gure I f the figure which they surmount be

.

sle n der the shoulders also should be slender But they .

’
s hould never be thin For beauty s sake they must be soft
.
,

n o t mu scular They must be overlaid with a veili n g of

.

fi rm flesh They must slop e gently into the li n es o f the

.

arms and bust and back by almost imperceptible degrees .

While they are plump in front they should be thin at the

back A roll o f flesh between the shoulder blades is u n
.

sightly an d gives the appearance o f age .

After shapeliness o f the shoulders in imp ortance comes

whiteness S houlders well cared for should be the whitest
.

p a rt of a woman s body .

A th ir d impo rtant element in the beauty o f the shoulders

is the texture o f the skin It should be o f satin fineness . .

To attain shapely shoulders b egin with the chest T he .

woman with a high chest always has beauti fully shape d

shoulders Form the habit o f breathing d eeply A shop
. .

girl in o ne o f New Y ork s d epart ment stores had S O fi ne a

’

development o f chest an d shoulders that I asked her how

s he achieve d it Her fi gure w as so slender that I knew she
.

must have bu ilt up those sh o ulders an d the chest b y so m e

wise system o f exercise .

Yes ha ven t I done fi ne " she answered

,
”’
Two ye ars .

ago I was the scrawniest thing you ever saw My neck .

a n d sho u l d ers looked like a wood pile t hat ha d tumbled over

itself I was all sharp corners I heard o f this new de e p

.
‘

.
68 M Y S ECRET S O F BEA U T Y
l

Rosewater 1 2 ounces ; tincture of benzoi n I ounce ; tan

, ,

nic acid 2 0 grains ; elder flowe r water 4 ou n ces

, , .

S hould ers shoul d be white Normally they are and if

.
,

n ot the general health sh o uld be loo ked to as a corrective .

Are the Shoulders yellow " P robably thei r owner is bilious

and r equires a change from a heavy meat a n d sweets diet
to a lighter o n e in which cereals a n d g r een vegetables an d
s alads predominat e The system should be irrigated by
.

much water drinking Try to remember that the amount

.

o f food for a day s s u stenance has been estimated i n th e

’

p r opo rtio n o f fiv e parts t o s even parts water Are her .

shoulders marre d b y pimples o r ac n e " Again she should

look to her diet eating less rich food A thorough scrub
,
.

bing o f the shoulders with warm water a n d pu r e soap o n ce

a day followe d by a rub down with alcoh o l should be su f
,
-
,

fi c i en t to keep them prettily white if the diet is a cor r ect

o ne .

I f the shoulders have been ta nn ed o r f r eckled by much

s ea bathi n g o r lolling on the bu rn i n g sa n ds they will be ,

improved by applications twice a day of this ol d fashi o n ed -

remedy
Horseradish root I o u nce ; borax 2 drams Pour over
, ,
.

these o n e p int o f b o ili n g water Ap p ly with a sponge

. .

Also apply distilled water a n d the j uice o f a lemon o r

pe ro xide o f hydrogen mixed in equal pa r ts
,
.

The e ffects of a hal f doze n app lications o f these Shoul d

be quickly appare n t .

Arms like shoulders must possess symmet ry That is

, ,
.
,

they must seem to be of the body inclu d ed in the original ,

plan instead o f be ing hastily added as an afterthought .

They must be in pe r fect p r oportio n The size o f t he arm .

depends wholly upo n the size O f the b ody .

In Paris rece n tly a pretty little Russian Miss Ameli a ,

Rose won the prize for having a perfect arm In P aris

,
.
,

where beauty is the chief d ivinity the awardi n g of the pri z e

,
 KEE P I N G H A N D S A ND A R M S YO U N G 69

to o ne not of the French nation was a m omentous matter .

Everyone w anted t o kno w the proportions o f the arm .

The Russian beauty s height was five feet fi ve inches ’

.

Her arms con formed to the canons of statuary T h e upper .

arm was one third shorter than the forearm The circum
-
.

fe r ence o f the upper arm w as thirteen inches ; O f the fore

arm nine inches and of the wrist s i x inches
,
.

The beautiful arm looks as though it were mad e for

ornament not for use No muscle is undul y prominent
, . .

It should b e a s Sof t an d smooth as white velvet I f the .

a rm i s t oo fat its size can be reduced by massage with the

wringing motion The masseus e s ho u l d manip u l ate the
.

a m exactly as th o ugh she were wringing ou t cloth e s b e

r
fore hanging them out to d ry .

To develop the arm there a r e man y e xercises S mall .

d umbbells weighing hal f a poun d can b e swung to great

, ,

advantage Also to d e v elop at once the musc l es o f shoul

.

ders and arms this is v aluable S tretch the arm s hori .

z o n t all
y from the b ody until the muscles a r e tense Then .

slowly raise them above t he hea d trying to keep the muscl es ,

rigid Cle n ch the fists and stretching the arms horiz o n

.
,

tally at the sides rais e and lower the arms T his d ev elops
, .
,

the biceps Cle n ch the fi sts an d turn th em slow l y about

.

o n the wrists to make the wri s ts s u ppl e L ight massage .

with olive o i l supplements the exercises .

I k n ow a gi r l w ho otherwise had a charming fi gu re but ,

whose arms were distressingly thin It t ook two years o f .

attentio n to them to make thos e arm s attracti v e but she ,

succeeded .

The means we r e a change o f diet to more nou rishing an d

muscle building food a hal f hour tw ice a day with dumb
-
,

bells and daily massage with cold cream o r olive o i l T he

, .

resul ts were so ft well rounded pinkly white arms that

, ,

cha rmed everyone who s aw them .

A n exercise that develops the arms and the back an d

79 MY S ECRET S O F BE AU T Y
bust as well is this " H olding t he arms at the sides inhale ,

deeply Clench the fists Bend the elbows B r ing the

. . .

fists to the shoulders moving only the lower arms With

, .

t he fists resting at the Shoulders raise the elbows to a

straight lin e with the shoulders Mov e the fists down .

slowly until they fi t close into the armpit s Move the fists .

slowly around to the back crossing them and then lower, ,

ing the a rms to their fi rst position Keep the muscles tense .

while so doing This is a famous resistance exercise

. .

I f the texture o f the skin o n the arms is coarse a dry ,

r ub eve r y day with a s o ft flesh brush should open the pores ,

whose long collecting accretio n s have made the skin rough .

This treatment will make the skin tender I f it seems s en .

s i t i v e apply a goo d cold cream every mo rn ing and evening .

A fter the morning application powder may be added The .

a r ms may be dusted with a pure powder One of the .

best cold creams for the purpose is this

Oil o f sweet almonds 5 0 grams ; white wax 1 0 g r ams ;
, ,

spermaceti o r sper m o i l 1 0 grams ; rosewate r 2 0 grams ;

, ,

tincture o f benzoin 5 g r ams ; tincture o f amber 2 grams

, ,
.

While reducing her arms o r before she has succeeded in

,

s o d o ing the stout woman should not wea r sleeves shorter

,

than the elbow length ; Her upper arm is g r oss a n d she

should veil it until she has reduced it to lovelier prop o r
tions.

T o ke e p my han d s smooth and white I wash them a la

Cavalieri First in soapy water through many waters
.
,

until they are spotless as my linen Then I d ry them but .

,

only part ly by the heat of the hands themselves n o t with

, ,

a towel Then I bathe them again in this mixture

.

One ounce glyceri n e ; three ounces rosewater ; ten drops

lemon j uice This should be well Shaken when bei ng
.

mixed and also every time it is used

, .

Cold roughened hands must be treated with special care

-

at night That is the time to giv e the m their complet e

.
 KEE P I N G H A N D S A ND AR M S Y O U N G 71

t oile t It is well fo r them i f it has not been necessar y to

.

wash them often d uring the day They m u st of course be .

, ,

kept clean But bett er avoi d soiling the m d uring the d ay

.

than wash them t oo o ften .

Bu y a large pair o f ru bbe r glo v es at l eas t three o r f o u r ,

si z es larger th an the ki d glo v es y o u are in the habit o f

we aring A fter washing the hands in warm water so f
.
,

tened with a few d rops o f ammonia say a hal f do z en drops ,

to a q uart o f water and a good pure soap as white castil e

, , ,

o r one o f the tar soaps b athe the han d s in cooler water an d

, ,

before d rying them rub thoroughly over them ,

Glycerine 1 ounce ; rosewater 1 ounce Then draw o n

, ,
.

the ru bber gloves .

I f the hands be m u ch d arkene d o r re dd ene d this will

whiten as well as s often them
Glycerine 1 ounce ; lemon j uice 1 ounc e
, , .

In extrem e cases a paste worn fo r two o r three nigh ts

u nde r the rubber glo v es will facili tate the work o f making
the hands onc e more presentable This is a goo d paste .

Almond meal 1 o u nce ; tinct u re o f b enz oin 1 0 d r ops ;

, ,

honey V2 ounce , .

In simi lar fashion w h en h an d s hav e been reddened and

blistered by the s u n wear a pair o f loose gloves at night ,

first coveri n g the hands with this mixture

Honey 2 ounces ; glycerine 1 ounce ; barley flour 8
, , ,

ounces ; whites o f two eggs .

O r the followi n g lotion rubbed into the hands well will

answer the same purpose
Cologne 2 ounces ; lemon j uice 2 ounces ; liquid honey 2
, , ,

ounces .

M u ch is asked an d much from time to time answered

, ,

abo ut the care o f th e arm s yet an attractive arm may b e ,

hopelessly mar r e d by an U gly elbo w Resolve that y our .

arms are onl y as prett y as y our elbows an d set to work ,

upon them .
72 MY S ECRET S O F BEAU T Y
First examine them closely and while you examine them
keep in mi n d the standard for a lovely elbow To be lo v ely .

it should be little in evide n ce s o little i n fact that it seems

to be merely an appearing and disappearing feature —so
, , ,

to speak — a dimple playing peekaboo .

Instead o f this what do you p robably see " A sharp ,

bo n y cor n er o r a mass o f unsightly wrinkles in either

, ,

case darker than the surrounding flesh Almost certai n ly .

the skin cove r i n g it is dark and r ough a patch o f goose

,

flesh a you n g girl complained when d ressing for a dance .

Now what is to be done "

T ry first to rid the elbows of their dis fi gu ring redness o r
darker col o r Rub them every night befo re r etiring with
.

a hal f grape fruit This is better than a lemon because

.

the elbo w can settle into it and work about it I f you .

place the halves o f grape fruit o n a table an d rest your

elbows in the m you can read o r chat o r meditate and leave
the elbows to their bleachi n g fo r an in d efinite t ime R e .

peat this every night until yo u notice an improvement in

their color .

But do not be satisfied with this progress S cr ub the .

elbows daily with warm water an d a bleaching s o ap One .

o f the peroxide soap s would be useful .Or u se castile soap

with water into which yo u have sprinkled a few drops o f
,

peroxide o f hydrogen o r o f ammonia .

An inge n ious girl I kno w bound slices o f lemon o n her

elbows eve r y night be fore going to bed While this is not.

as quickly e fficacious as the grape fruit it is cheaper .

When this gradual whitening o f the elbows has been ac

complished take the next step in their beautifying which ,

is smoothi n g them I f they are very rough scrub them

.
,

with a p umice sto n e that has bee n dipped int o warm water .

R ub the r oughened s p ots gently with this and slowly lest , ,

you irritate the skin Then apply cold cream or O live o i l

.

t o allay even an y tendenc y to irri tation O r i f they are.

 KEE P I N G H A ND S AND A RM S Y O U N G 73

only slightly roughened rubbing them round and round

,

with finge rs that ha v e been spread with cocoa n ut O il is

e n ough i f long continued to so ften them
, ,
.

I f the elbows are v ery sharp massaging the flesh about

them with palms well g r eased with mut ton tallow Should in
time nourish t h e m into r o undness
.
 C H A P TER V

M A SS A GE A S A BE A U T I F I ER

A S S A GE
is o f two kinds good a n d bad It is good .

o r bad according to the knowledge and skill o f the

,

masseuse I have a pro found unshakable belief i n the

.
,

e fficacy o f massage It is my cure all I rarely take medi

.
-
.

ci n e Almost never i n all my life in fact F or long ago

.
, .

I heard what your American poet Oliver Wendell Holmes ,

“
wrote " I f all the drugs were thro w n into the s ea it
would be ha r d on the fishes b u t i t woul d be bette r for,

huma n ity That f ro m a man w h o knew medicine d eeply

.
,

impressed me .

That which will most interest readers o f this bo o k prob ,

ably will be the consideration o f massage as a b eau ti fi e r

, .

In that aspect I most earnestly rec ommen d it F o r hal f .

my life I have had my face massaged frequently a n d for ,

ma n y years I have had it massaged every day With what .

result " That my face is absolutely free f r o m lines That .

my complexion is smo o th and absolutely free from blem

ishes I resolve d that it sh o uld approach the smooth n ess
.

a n d clearness o f an infant s skin if care could achieve that

’

e ff ect and I have succeeded

,
.

Moreover there is no abnormal growth o f hair upon the

,

face With pleasure I lay the ghost o f that fiction against

.

massage Despite all that we hear to the contra r y the fric

. ,

tion has not caused the growth o f the tiniest o f beards .

I f you entrust the mass age o f your face to a masseuse ,

be s u re tha t she has had prope r instruction an d considerable

ex peri enc e B ad massage is much worse than n one for it
. ,

74
76 MY S E CRET S O F BE AU T Y
Tincture o f b enzoin 1 ounce ; tincture o f vanilla 4 , ,

drams ; sweet almo nd oil 3 ou n ces ; bitter almo n d o i l I , ,

dram ; s p e r maceti 5 d r a ms ; white w ax 5 drams ; lanolin

, , ,

1 ou n ce ; witch h az el 1 ou n ce ; rosewater 3 ounces

, , .

Havi n g first had your face massaged several times by an

expert masseuse you can lea r n the movements you r self a n d
massage your o w n face S ome become deft at self facial .
-

massage in a sho r t time S ome w ho have clumsy fi n gers o r

.
,

a lack o f perception neve r maste r the a rt S ome beautiful

, .

wome n never entrust their faces to a masseuse I am told ,

.

Fi r st look to the shadowy new lin es upon your face I f .

there be n one consider where the li n es form whe n you

,

laugh when you f r o w n when you sulk o r when you cry

, , , .

Anticipate thes e lines by nourishing well the muscles in

those regio n s .

The wrinkle regions o f a woma n s face a r e four The ’

.

first is abo ut the outer co r ners o f the eyes The w ri n kles .

there formed have been known for many ages as c r ow s ’

feet b ecause they radiate outwa r d in somewhat the fashio n

,

tha t a bi r d s toes are dis p osed They might as fi t ti ngly

’
.

’ ’
be called chi c ken s toes o r pigeon s toes or eagle s toes ,
’
,
.

They are supposed to be the i n e r adicable unmistakable ,

Signs o f age The t ruth is they a r e the paths o f laughte r

.
, ,

and indicate a mer ry disposition I have seen them o n the .

fac e o f a boy o f twelve I have seen th em st r o n gly ma r ked

.

on the counten ance o f a young woman of twenty o n e -

.

They are the measures o f the laughi n g capacity o f the pe r

so n who bears them In that light they a r e the l eas t ugly
.

o f the wrinkles ; yet w r ink l e s they are a n d at best w ri n kles ,

are undesirable .

To remove c r ow s feet d i p the tips o f the fi ngers in o n e

’

of th e good massage c r eams and with the s econd and thi r d ,

fingers rub th e area a ff ected with a rotary motion wo r ki n g ,

from the corne r s of the eyes outward .

More disfigu r ing than the crow s feet because o f more ’

,
 M A S S AG E A s A BE AU T I F I ER 77

ignoble o r igin and more diffi cult to erase are the diagonal ,

li n es from the nostrils to the cor n er o f the lips They are .

”
known variously as the bad temper lines the emotional ,

” ”
lines the lines o f discontent
,
“
Using the middle finger
. ,

the massage should begin at the corners o f the mouth and ,

should end where the lines en d at the nostrils This move

,
.

ment should also be a rotary o ne It should be deeper and .

firmer than that about the eyes .

The thi rd o f the w rinkle areas an d the o n e in which the ,

wrinkles fi rst app ear in most faces is the forehead One ,

.

o f y our A merican wome n d octors said that the signs upo n

the forehea d are unmi stakable and infallibl e ones When .

a woman h as three transverse lines across the f orehead I

know that she i s t wenty se v en s ai d this woman physician

”
-
,
.

When she has t wo v ertical lines between the e y es I know

t h a t she is fo rty fiv e
”
-
This is interesting but untrue I
.
,
.

kno w hal f a dozen women o f fi fty who hav e neither o f these

group s o f telltale lines .

I n massaging the lines o f the brow remember the gen ,

eral rule fo r massage The movement must be in contrary

.

direction from the line F o r instance the v ert ical lines b e

.
,

tween the eyes must b e treated b y the second finger o f each

hand and must b e rotary and upward branching abo ve the ,

eyes with a ge n tly diminishing motion to the right an d lef t

toward the temples The transverse lines forming as the y
.
,

do by a creasi n g o f the skin fro m b o ttom to t op Should b e ,

massaged by a rotary motion from the bottom to the t Op o f

the forehead .

The fourth o f the danger z ones is that in front o f the

ears The vertical lines in front o f the ears are belie v e d
.

to bet o ken advancing age Yet like those about the eyes
.
, ,

they are misleadi n g They Sometimes appear o n the face s

.

o f in fa n ts
. The manner in which t he ea r is s et accounts
la rgely fo r the prese n ce o f these w r inkles I f it is s et .

o ut f ro m t h e head prominently t he s kin i s loose i n f ront o f

78 M Y S EC R ET S O F BEAU TY
the ear an d fa ll s readily into wrinkles I f the ear s et s clos e
.

to the head th e skin in front o f the ear is drawn tau t an d ,

the so called age betraying w rinkles never ap p e ar T o

- -
.

che ck this fold o f skin is almost impossible i f the ear stands

o u t f rom the head To retard its deepening u se the middl e
.
,

finger for massage and with deep firm motion push slowly
, ,

upward toward t he top o f the ear .

The lines on the neck behind the ears d istress som e

women To correct them massage with the first an d s ec
.
,

ond and third fingers deeply upward toward the hair .

Massage o f the body is prescribed by many physician s

for nerv ous disorders for d efective circulation and for r e
,

d uction o f flesh for insomnia and other disorders Whil e

,
.

invaluable it Sho u ld only be given by a skillful masseuse

, ,

p re ferably o ne recommended by a reliable physician .

O f all systems o f massage the S wedish is regarde d as

bes t Its O per ators must study their a rt for t wo y ears
. .

I f a woman be thin this massage emollient is agreeable

and ad d s t o her weight
O il o f sweet almon d s 6 ounces ; oi l o f bitt er almonds
, ,

2 0 drops ; ba lsa m o f tolu 4 grams ; benzoin 4 grams ; es

, ,

sence o f ora n ge 6 drops ; essence o f caj eput 6 dro ps

, ,
.

I f the patie n t be plump talcum powder is the only aid to

,

t he hands o f th e masseus e required .

The beautiful woman has po i n ts L et us enumerat e .

t hem " A figure grace ful in outli n e not too thin nor t oo , ,

fat A face that is fascinating and by fascinating I mean

.
,

interesting But to make it interesting it m u st have what "

.

Features that are well proportio n ed let us say regular , .

’
They must seem to belong to one s o wn face and no other .

T he nose must not be too large nor too small but j us t large ,

e no ugh for the face in which it is s et .

H o w to keep the lines o f that face as good as they were

at the beginning o r b etter " It is most important The .
,

n os e s ho u l d be massaged intelligently massaged The .

 a
P i nt e r s a nd s cu l p s ag i gi i g h h i g h a
to r ree n v n er r nk am g th
on
m s b a u ti fu l l i i g w m
o t e v n o en .
e
 M A S S AGE A s A BEA U T I F I E R 79

owner o f the nose he r sel f can d o it qu ite a s we l l i f not be t

ter than any othe r .

I f the nose is too broa d she shoul d massage i t d elicately

,

toward the p o int I f it is too s h arp she shoul d massage it

.
,

away from the point to the flare o f the nostrils always with
,

the merest p oints o f the c u shions o f he r fingers T o keep

.

its no r mal whiteness it s ho u l d hav e o ften at least once a

,

day a hot compress o f cotto n dippe d in ro sewater o r other

,

distille d water spread upon it An d a fter that there sho u l d

, .

be a da sh o f col d water u p on it to close the pores .

 W
C H A P TER VI
H AT TO DO FO R TH E F EET

HE b eautiful foot is that o f the baby It is beautiful .

because it is n atural unmarred by ill fitti ng cramp

,
-
,

i ng distorting shoes
,
.

Just in so far as the foot has departe d from its origi n al

shape and habit is it less than pe rfect It is hard indeed .
, ,

to find a b eautiful fo o t The story is told o f a New York

.

sculptor who searching fo r a perfect foot dismissed three

, ,

thousand models w ho were applicants for the h o n or d eclar ,

ing that there was not o n e beautiful foot among them .

By the establishe d modern standard the foot should be ,

neither small nor large though it is pre ferable that it be

,

small rather than large The tiny foot o f a large woman

.

is absurd It suggests deformity S o does the short foot

. .

o n the tall woman The foot Should seem to belong to the

.

woman n o t to have been loaned to her for the occasio n

,
.

Like her hand it should seem to be in perfect harmony

,

with the rest o f her body I f the owner be plump the foot
.
,

should not be thin I f she be thin th e foot shoul d not be

.
,

'
plump .

It should be neither bony n o r too fat The bones should .

be well covered but their outli n e shou ld be plain e n ough

, ,

to give a ce r tain distinction called character to the foot .

The toes should spread comfortably apart yet there should ,

not be unseemly spaces between t h em The spaces should .

be slight and even like those b etween regular and well

kept teeth The Skin Should be smooth an d pinky white
. .

80
82 M Y S E C R ET S OF BEA UT Y
on the sole Your ounce o f preventio n is sendi n g the
.

shoes to a cobbler the moment you s ee the hi n t of crooked

ness in the heels They can be planed o r built up to their
.

former evenness at very slight expense The money Spe n t .

thus is much less than the fee o f a chiropodist that yo u will

save .

Having formed the habit of wearing comfortable shoes

and let me say here that American Shoes are the best a n d
that I always wear them — s ee that the feet are released
o ften from their prison Even the best pair o f shoes is .

a pris o n In your own room wear the Japa n ese sa n dals

.

that protect the delicate soles from the floor but that leave ,

the toes free to lie loosely apart though they are secured ,

by strong cross bands These give the muscles of the feet

.

a chance to relax They are much better for this pu r pose

'

than th e felt slipper o r shoe which is t oo cl o sely woven to ,

permit prope r ventilation .

The f eet like that o ther extreme o f the body the hai r
, , ,

need sunlight Think how little the poor imprisoned feet

.
,

get They need air How little o f that they get

. . .

Well shaped feet are so much rarer to day than they were
- -

i n the days o f the Ro ma n s a n d Greeks mai n ly because we ,

imprison them in unventilated sun forbiddi n g shoes instead ,

-

o f wearing the sa n dal of the ancients which gave the feet ,

the light and air they need .

It is un fortunate that the arbiters o f fashion ha ve not

seen fit to condemn modern shoes in favor o f the ancient
sa n dal More harm is do ne to the feet by the present
.

day footwear than is done to the hair by rats and pu ffs o r

,

to the vital organs by t i ghtfi tt i ng c orsets .

S ome years ago it did become the fashion for childre n to

wear sandals b u t their elders we r e no t wise e n ough to
,

f ollow their example But if you ca nn ot wear sandals .

yourselves there is no reason why you shouldn t ha v e your

’

,
 W HA T T O D O F O R T H E F EET

c h il d ren wear them f or it is even more impo rtant t h at the

,
83

child s feet be pro perly t aken care o f than the adults

’
.

In early li fe the bones are naturally soft an d may b e

,

r eadily fo r ce d o u t o f their normal shapes by any consider

able ext erior pressure I t is obvious that to maintain the

.

pro p er contour o f the child s feet the san d al is much more

’
,

satis fact o ry than the shoe The former permits the feet .

to be flat on the ground and sp r eads the toes the latter ,

crowds the toes and compresses the wh o le foot .

And adults can improve the condition o f their f eet b y

wearing sandals in the ho u s e even if prevailing f ashi o n do e s
,

not permit o f their w earing them out o f doors .

To be healthy the feet must be kept scrupulously clean

,
.

S o much are they exposed to the dust o f the streets es ,

p ec i a lly by those who wea r lo w sh o es that they need mor e ,

than the perfunctory share o f the morning plunge o r shower .

They should be b athed every night in a fo o t tub containing -

warm water I f the feet be tender the water shoul d c on

.
,

tain borax in the p roport ion o f an ounce to a gallon .

Wa r m salt water is also very easeful for tired fe et e s ,

p e c i al ly use ful fo r reducing the congesti o n in swollen feet .

This powder sprinkled into the warm bathwater a ff ords ,

great relief
Borax ( pow d ered ) 1 o u nce ; S ea salt 1 ounce ; alum
, , ,

ounce U se one teasp oon ful to a gallon o f water

. .

F or tired swollen feet lemo n j uice s p r i n kle d freely into

, , ,

the wate r is a means o f alleviation An easie r way to appl y

, .

it is to cut a lemon in hal f an d rub the soles o f the feet

with it .

Calloused spo ts may be remove d f rom the sole by planing

o ff the rough surfaces with pumice stone .

English women give ease to their feet a fter a long walk

by bathing them in an in fusion o f r o sema r y leaves S teep .

the rosemary leaves a hal f ounc e t o a gallon o f w ate r

,
.
84 M Y S ECRET S O F B EA U T Y

When cool bathe th e feet fo r twenty mi n utes in the mix

,

tu r e addi n g warm water now and then as the water in the

, ,

f oot tub cools

-
.

Fo r feet i n clini n g to excessive p erspiration a powder made

o f these ingredients should b e used in the footbath "

Tannin 60 grains ; alum 2 drams lycopodium 6

, , ,

d r ams One teaspoon ful o f the powder to a gallon of warm

.

water is su fficient .

S e n sitive feet are m u ch relieve d b y this remedy which ,

is popular i n Engla n d
Rosemary leaves 72 pound ; j uni p e r berries 3 ounces ;
,
"
,

d r ied mi n t V2 ou n ce Boil in three quart s o f water

'

, . .

Corn s are me r ely hardene d portions o f the skin usually ap

pea ring upon the top o f the toes Each speaks loudly o f .

pressure by sh oes No Indian ever had a corn u ntil he

.

be gan wea r i n g the white man s boo ts Corns and bunions ’

.

a r e the reco r d o f the f act that t he shoe as many wea r it , ,

is a n instrument o f torture I f the corns be new and n ot .

—
deep seated they c an be removed b y sel f t r eatment
,
-
.

S oak the feet from fi fteen to t wenty minute s in warm

water s o ftened by a fe w drops o f violet ammonia o r o f
, ,

be n zoi n B ind a Slice o f lemon o n the toe s tying it securely

.
,

with a bandage o f white muslin I f the corn r espo n ds .

naturally to the treatment it should be so loose after three

or four applicatio n s that you can push it out by ge n tle fric
tion with a t o wel Never use your finger nails in extracti n g
.

a corn no matter how l oose it seems B loo d poisoning

,
.

might result .

I f the case is more ob sti n at e this a p plie d with a small , ,

c am el s hai r bru sh Sh o uld be quickly e ffi cacious

’

Collodio n 4 grams ; ether ( 6 5 per

,
2 grams ; alcohol

(9 5 pe r I g r am ; ti n cture of Cannabis Indica ,

g ram ; salicylic acid 1

gram , 2 .

L ess exp ensive is this "

C ollodion I ounce ; salicylic acid I d ram ; flui d extract o f
, ,
C annabis
W H AT TO

In d ica I scruple Apply several times a day

,
D O F OR

.
THE F EET 85

until the corn is so ft enough to be scraped away .

I f the co r ns are o f the soft variety that grow between

the toes absorbent cotton powdered with tan n i n or alum
,

may be inse rted between them Ri n g plasters to p rotect .

the corn from further ir r itation by the shoe have their

friends an d foes I think it much wiser to remove the p r es
.

s ure permanentl y by abandoni n g the shoes that caused it .

Bunions o r enlarge d and inflamed j oints are the greatest

, ,

a ffl iction to w h ich su ff eri n g feet can be subj ected A new .

bro ad pair o f shoes with low heels is the best remedy To .

assis t this reme dy the j oints may be painted three times a

,

d ay with this simple but strong bunion lotion

Tinct ur e o f iodine 2 d rams carbolic acid 2 drams , ,

glycerine 2 d rams
, .

A dainty foot powder should be o n every woma n s toilet ’

shel f o r table especially i f her feet perspire freely An ex

,
.

c ellen t one is made like this

Florentine orris p o wder 1 0 0 grams ; starch 1 00 g r ams ; , ,

alcohol 1 0 g r ams ; phe n ic acid 5 grams This should be

, , .

sprinkled o n the foot before dressing it especially through ,

o u t the summer .

A n d here is still anothe r f o ot powde r which I hav e used

fo r a long time sprinkling a hal f ounce o f it int o a f oot
,

tub holdi n g two gallons o f water o r dusting my feet with ,

it after the bath

Powdered alum I o u nce ; powdere d boracic acid 2 ounces ;
, ,

talcum 4 ounces ; sta r ch 6 ounces ; a few drops o f perfume

, ,

at pleasure .

This yet simpler pow d er is much used fo r p erspiri n g

feet
P owdered orris root I ounce ; powde red alum yz ounce ;
'

, ,

rice powder 3 ou n ces , .

The nails should be c u t square across except when the ,

formation of the toes ac qui r ed by close pressure o f the t oes

,
86 MY S ECRET S OF BEA U T Y
u po n each other demands that the nail b e cu t ro u n d to a d apt
,

it s el f to the shape o f the toes .

At the first sign o f an ingr owing to e nail each o f two

simple remedies may b e used The corner o f the nail at
.

the Side where the toe is inflamed may be gently lifted and
cotton thrus t beneath it to relieve the p ressure Also at .

the middle o f the upp er edge of the nail a t iny V may he

c ut . Natu r e in extra e fforts to heal this breach in the n ail
withdraws her forces fro m the irritation of the side of the
toe .

L ight massage by a skillful masseuse is greatly bene

fi c i al to tired feet . Dancers pedestrians and female
,

cyclists have use d this u nguent rubbing it well into the

,

muscles and about the j oints to make them more flexib le

,

P ortugal ext r act I ounce ; r o sewater 1 ounce ; brandy

, , ,

I gill ; olive O il 3 ounces ; mutton tallo w 4 ounces ; virgin

, ,

wax I ounce ; amberg r is V2 grain

, , .

Walking barefoot in the early morning is still a fad o f

many society women and actresses and singers who have
regard for the health o f their feet Besides the beauty of .

t he foot a n d the elastic carriage so secured walking with ,

ba r e feet upon the bare earth is believed by ma n y physi

‘

e iaus to be very be n eficial in ce r tain cases It is r eco m .

me n ded als o as a tonic for the nerves .

A good exercise to develop the elasticity o f the foot is to

sit with the fee t scarcely reachi n g the flo o r and press the ,

fore p art of the sole upon the flo o r This also strengthens .

weak ankles .

No woman is ev er p retty while her feet hurt ; and a

horrid male pe rson has been ungallant enough t o say that
the awkwardest thi n g in natu r e is a woman with a sore
”
foot . That he didn t exaggerate we must admit
’
, .

What shall we do to stop this weari n g o f beauty this ,

most excruciating of the minor physical ills " We should

first look to the cause .
 I s the
W H AT TO D O F OR

skin between the toes cracked an d sensiti v e " It

THE F EET 87

is po ssibl e that this i s a symptom o f a uri c aci d condition .

S ee your physician and let him determine whether it is so .

If you have j oined the grea t army o f those who ha v e the

uric acid diathesis be treated accordingly I f the cracks
, .

between the toes are caused by the feet being excessively

hot eith er o f these shoul d complete a cu re in a short time "
,

S prea d z inc ointment over the cracke d s u rfaces ; o r ,

po wd er them thickly with Fuller s earth ’

.

If the feet are bathe d every nigh t before retiring in tepi d

water into which a little borax o r common table salt has
been sprinkle d there is little likelihood o f se n sitive
, ,

swollen feet o r o f hardene d o r calloused portions o n the

,

feet As the e v ening f oot bat h is a preventative s o is i t a

.
,

cure for such conditions u nless they have reached an ex

—
,

treme stage I f s o a f ter care f ull y d ry ing t h e f ee t

.
, being
careful to dry them thoroughly between the toes so that
no soft corns will form there — rub the swollen portions
o f the feet gentl y with witc h hazel ; o r t h e har d callouse d ,

p o rtions with olive oil o r col d c r eam .

Keep several pairs o f shoes so that you nee d not wear

the same p air on tw o successive days Wear a di fferent .

pair o f hose each day tur n i n g wrong side out and leaving
,

to air the pair that you have worn the previous day .

If the feet perspire this r emedy is a goo d on e — a p ply it

by dusting the feet with it
Borax I O grams ; starch 1 0 grams ; salicylic acid 3
, , ,

grams ; powdere d alum 5 grams ; t alcum powder 5 0 grams ;

, ,

naphthol 5 grams
,
.

’
This simpler p reparation can be applied with a camel s
hair brush
Distilled wate r pint ; bichromate o f potassium I %
, ,

drams essence o f violet I dram , .

The masculine habit o f resting the f eet upon ano the r

chair than the one occupied by the sitter has i ts origin in
88 M Y S ECRET S O F BEAU T Y
the instinct sel f preserv ation The bl oo d flows foo freely
of -
.

into the legs and feet that remain too long in a suspende d
position engorging the veins and causing discomfort It
, .

is this condition which men seek to relieve by placi n g their

feet on desks and chairs I t is a habit which women may
.

well imitate when alone at l east to the limit o f the hei ght
o f a chair seat The long chair o f the F r en ch mee t s the
.
'

need o f allowi n g the legs t o lie o n a level with a port ion

o f the b ody while the upper part is in a sitting po sture .

Rest the feet by wearing larger shoes an d only cot ton

stockings Wear san d als witho u t stockings in yo u r ro om
.

o n warm days .
99 M Y S EC R ET S O F BEA U T Y
The pleasing mouth has lips that curve from thin o u t e r
corners to a ripe fullness at the middle The sweep should .

be upward to a fine cleft at the middle o f the upper lip .

A deep cleft j ust above the upper li p is o n e o f the recog

n i z e d marks o f beauty The lowe r lip should be st r aighter
.

a n d not s o full as the upper Much has been said about .

the beauties o f the lips but nothi n g has been said more ,

illumi n ative tha n t he phrase Cupid s bow ’

.

S tudy the ge n tle sweep o f a bow hel d i n place by a cord ,

.

”
It adheres to the rule Curves are the lines o f beauty
,
.

The curve is soft te n der It seems to b e the ble n ding of

,
.

countless curves S o the mouth I once s aw the mouth

. .

o f a cruel woman described as bei n g like a slit in a sto n e “

”
wall . I th o ught the phrase apt .

I believe in allowing the mouth to take ca r e o f itsel f .

It is its surrou n di n gs i t s enviro n me n t s o to speak that is

, , ,

impo r ta n t Look t o the li n es fro m nost r ils to lips S ee

. .

that they are remove d by massage Massage restores cir .

culation Massage is like a syste m o f ir r igation for

.

waste land Creases are caused by lack o f circulation

. .

The muscles that hold the mouth in a fi r m li n e are thread

like o n e j ust above and at the sides o f the lips It is most
, .

impo r ta n t to keep these taut by massage .

As to color I have said that the lips should not b e too

,

red The n ormal lips should b e the sa me color as the

.

gums a n d has n ot your de n tist said to you

,
Your gums ,

are too re d are not healthy,

S o the lips Should be a deep
pink o r a light red Not blood color but three shades at
,
.
,

least lighter than a stream o f arterial blo o d I mak e this .

distinction because ve n ous blood may be bluish and far ,

from a model for the health ful color o f the lips .

An Italian authority o n beauty said the beautiful mouth

must always be open enough to Show fi ve teeth This is .

att ractive but no t hygienic The teeth are to the beauty

, .

o f the mouth as imp o rtant as t h e keystone to an arch .

 C ARE O F TH E M O U T H A ND TEE T H 9 1

Without the keystone there can be no arch Without lov el y .

t eeth the beauty o f the mo u t h does not exist The lips are .

a promise o f beauty The teeth are its fulfillment. .

The teeth shoul d be regu lar The y shoul d not b e .

crow d e d together and there Shoul d be no aggressively n o

,

t i c eab le spaces be tween the m The y sh oul d be white o r .

,

seem white The u n romantic truth is that teeth are

.

never white The y are o f three sha d es blue y ellow and

.
, ,

gray always o ne o r the other B ut in contrast with the

,
.

lips they loo k white and the more vivid the lips the whiter
,

do the teeth look in contrast Which is the reason I s u p .

,

p o se ,that I ha v e seen women with f r ightfull y o v e r c a r mi n e d

li ps
.

No w how to make the mouth or keep the mouth well

,

shaped red but not too red and teeth to be o r look perfect
, ,
.

The time to train o u r mouths to beauty i s in o u r in fancy .

Ou r mothers shoul d begin the wo rk an d w h en w e have ,

reached years o f intelligence w e shoul d carry it forward ,

.

I f an infant s mouth is too la rge it c an b e trai n ed to

’

lesser siz e by tender pinching o f the corners This makes .

the line at the corners almost indeterminate and dimin ,

ishes the size Need I tell any mother that this must be
.

most gently and tenderly d one " Al so train the lips to

deepen their beauty cle ft by pushing the mid d le portions
together with the first fingers This light pressure fou r .

o r five times a day when you are dressing the child in the
,

morning an d undressing her at night will marvelously r e ,

fashion the mouth I knew a P arisian mother who not

.

only ma d e over her c h ild s mouth but also t he nose into

’

good lines by this light discreet pinchi n g , .

I f your mouth is de fective improve the shape o f your ,

lips by av oidi n g careless habits Ma n y pretty women are .

d isfigu r ed by crude careless habits o f mouthing their words

, ,

o f chewi n g their lips of ridiculous labial contortions while

,

they talk .
9 2 M Y SE C R ET S O F B EA U T Y

T 0 correct them p ractice in talking o r reciting be fore a

,

mirror Note whether you draw down the lips wh i le you

.

speak Note whether you catch them between you r teeth

.

a n d nerv ously chew them Observ e whether while you .

,

make a Short speech lo n gitudinal li n es form on the upper,

lip Notice whether you r smile is simple natural u n ex

.
, ,

agg e r at e d o r whether your mouth widens vacuously o r

, ,

d r aws i n to a pri m resembla n ce t o a buttonhole when you

smile When you have dete rmined whether y ou have any
.

o f these bad habits dete r mi n e to cu r e them a n d d o s o

, , .

There is but o n e w ay to cure them an d that is b y remem ,

beri n g you r fault a n d avoidi n g it .

The lips should be lightly massaged before falli n g asleep .

For that massage this is my favorite pomade You will .

obse r ve that i n n o p r epa r atio n that I advise fo r the lips is

any ca mphor I dislike camphor for the lips because it is
.

an astringent and the mouth is too much incli n ed to pucker

,

i n t o u n lovely li n es without its aid Try this .

Oil o f sweet almonds 1 2 5 grams ; white w ax 2 8 g r ams ; , ,

spermaceti 2 8 grams ; o i l o f bergamot 1 gr am ; o il o f g e

, ,

ran i u m 2 g r ams ,
.

This so ftens the lips e ffacing the tiny lines that fo r m in ,

the lips destroying their smooth surface du r i n g the day

, , .

It c an be varied by another a n d simpler remedy

Hydrated glycerine ( 5 0 per ce n t water ) 60 grams ; r ose .
,

water 2 0 grams
, .

D o not use glyce r i n e alone o n the lips n or on any other

s u r face of the bo dy It is too d rying It has the power
. .

to d raw moist ure f r om the ski n and t hat moistu r e shou ld ,

by replaced by the water with which the glycerine is mixed .

Leaving the shape we come to the color o f the lips , .

P reserv e that by keeping the bo dily health goo d I f the .

circulatio n is de fective the lips will b e pale I f we becom e .

a naemic pallid lips will be o n e o f the fir st signs of ou r

,

state T o m ak e them healthily red improve the tone of the

.
94 MY S E C RET S OF B EAUTY
by being an interes te d listener Wild aimless excessively .
, ,

ex cited talking is one of the biggest leaks o f beauty .

The mouth i f t oo large may be lightly massaged by

, ,

using the middle fingers o f each hand to coax it t oward the

g r eater fullness at the middle and less at the corners If .

it be too small rotary massage from the corners o f the

,

lips will tend to widen it .

I f the chin be too strong the jaw too hea vy as it is , ,

su r e to b e in thes e latter days o f n ew equality the fact ,

can be rendered less gl a ring by d ressing t he hair well for

ward above the forehead so that there will be a semblance ,

o f b r ow and chin being o f equal weight an d the face seem ,

to be well balanced I f the chin is too weak the hair.

should be well draw n back so that the strengt h o f t he brow ,

will seem to make u p the character d e fi cit .

F or lip s th at chap easily and always have a parched look

‘

let me advise that this poma d e be ap p lie d every night freely ,

massaged into the lips

Cocoa butter 2 4 grams ; white wax 4 grams ; o i l o f rose
, ,

geranium I gram, .

Thi s s ho u l d relieve an ordinary case I f it be an ob sti .

nate one s uppose you try this remedy prescribed by the

,

famous D r V au cai r e whose comman d ments are the deca

.
,

l ogue o f beauty loving P aris " -

Castor oil 6 grams ; coco a butter 20 grams ; o i l o f birch

, , ,

4 drops ; extract o f ca t echu 2 grams ; essence o f star anise , ,

1 0 drops .

To make rough lips smo oth t ry th i s

Oil o f sweet almon d s I o u nce ; spermaceti 1 ounce ; , ,

white wax ounce ; o il o f rose 6 drops Melt together

, ,
.

s lowly then work into a fi rm cream

,
.

The gu ms should be o f a healthy red I f they look pale .

massage them gently for five minutes several times a d ay

with thi s co mpound "
Woun d wo r t water 1 00 grams ; horseradish extract 1 2
, ,
 CA RE OF TH E M O UTH A ND TEET H 95

grams ; oil o f clo v es 1 d rop D ilute with an equal q u antity

, .

o f water .

T he wholesome woman tri es to k eep her breath as sw e e t

as the ki n e s recalli n g the exclamation o f Byron S he
” ’
, .

keeps a j ar o f bicarbonate o f soda on her bathroom shel f

and takes a teaspoonful in a glass o f water wheneve r
needed S he always d ri n ks two o r three glasses o f cool
.

water sl owly on rising This is because when the stomach

.

is in the tubular shape that it is in the morning it lends it

sel f easily to the work done by the water o f cleansing the ,

stomach for its work o f the d ay T o correct aci d condi .

tio n s o f mouth o r stomach s he takes a couple o f unsweet

e n ed charcoal tablets now an d then an d this is her favori te ,

mouth pastille
Unsweetened choco l a te 1 % o u nces ; white sugar , ,

ounce ; charcoal powde r V2 ounce , .

These are mo r e easily taken i f mixe d t o the consis tency

o f paste by the a d dition o f dissolved gum arabic coole d ,

and cut int o tablets .

For the care and p reservation o f the t e eth four things

are essential T he y are " P rope r d iet proper tooth brush
.
, ,

proper t o oth pow d ers o r pastes an d proper mouth baths ,

.

But beyon d any doub t the fi rst safegu ar d is to have a

reliable skillful dentist —i f yo u can make sure o f findi n g
,

one . O ne may go o n for years with f alse con fid ence in a

dentist be fore o n e fi nds o u t her s ad mistake .

I go to a d entist once a month to hav e my teeth exam

i ne d . No o ne sh o uld let more t han three months at most
pass without a visit to the dentist for an insp ection o f the
teeth .

The best dentist is none t oo goo d The careless o r i g .

n o r an t o r lazy o r dishonest dentist ma y ca u se irrep arabl e

damage And the saddest part o f it is that we are at the

.

mercy o f the dentist because we cann o t know whether his

,

work is goo d o r bad until the damage is done .

9 6 MY S EC R ET S O F BE AU T Y
There o ften come o n the teeth pa r ticularly between the m ,

where foo d is permitted t o lodge small dark stains which , ,

really are the fi r st wa rn ings o r p r emo n ito r y sign s o f deca y .

I f allowe d t o remain the enamel eve n tually disintegrates

, ,

and we have a cavity which must then be excavated and

,

fi lled B e fore this disco loratio n has adva n ced to an actual

.

b r eaking down o f the tooth st r uctu r e it may very p rope r ly ,

a n d successfully be removed or polished away by the de n

t i s t s engine and the sa n dpaper disc used for this pu r pose

’

a n d f or smoothi n g gold fillings .

The ho n est dentist will do this a n d restore the tooth to ,

its original color a n d sou n d n ess after which it may be , ,

with care indefinitel y preserved but the u n sc r upulous den

, ,

t i s t may o f course construe this suspicious looki n g spot as

, ,
-

caries and h e may wickedly cut away sou n d t ooth surface

, ,

fill in with the custo mary unsightly gold o r amalgam a n d ,

the unsuspecti n g victim pays the bill a n d departs no n e the

wiser O f course in front teeth it is especially a mi s fo r
.
,

tun e to make a cavity where it could have been avoided .

L et us co n side r now the diet We must avoid extremes

.
,

The English gi r l s answer to the question

’
Why d o you ,
“

h ave such beautiful complexions might as well ha v e been

made t o another que r y " Why do E nglish girls have such
beautiful teeth " ”
The girl replied B ecause we neve r °

e at anythi n g very sweet o r sour nor anythi n g very hot or ,

cold ”
. That is an excelle n t rule .

Who ever follows it will ado p t an admirable dietary .

A ls o live i f possible in a region whose soil is strongly i m

p g re n at e d with lime .

That i t s soil is so strongly im p regn ated with lime is t he

r eason why the Bluegrass region of Ke n tucky is as famous
for the beauty o f its women as o f its ho r ses Much lime .

i n the soil means much lime in the products thereof and ,

whoever eats o f these products has st r o n g bones and corre

spondingly strong teeth B ut we may not all live in Ken
.
9 8 MY S ECRET S O F BEA U T Y
mouth wash O r when the teeth have been irritated or u n
.
,

pleasantly a ff ected o r the gums irritated by a food or medi

,

cine to which they are unaccustomed it is well to rub

precipitated chalk about the n ecks o f the teeth and betwee n
the teeth I t is well als o to rinse the mouth with milk o f
.

magnesia at night be fore retiri n g .

Again let me suggest that diet i s o f immense importance

fo r two reasons I f the diet be an unwise one it may create
.

an excess o f uric acid which makes itsel f ma n ifest in the

,

mouth a n d causes the teeth to decay about the necks that is , ,

the portio n e n closed by the gums a state to be avoided , ,

fo r the cavities thus formed are hard to reach and are the
most pain ful to be operated upon by the dentist .

Agai n the diet is importa n t becaus e i f there is an undue

,

fermentati o n o r a n y other u n wholesome co n ditio n in the

stomach the gases and acids arisi n g from these discolor th e

teeth .

There fore avoid as I have said articles of diet that are

, , ,

very sweet or very sou r a n d articles o f d r i n k that a r e ve r y

,

ho t o r very cold F o r example do not eat candy pastry

.
, , ,

puddings except those co n sisti n g chiefly o f fruit ices

, ,

pickles o r sour ora n ges o r grape f r uit Do no t drink sour .

lemonade nor limeade Avoid i c e water o r very hot tea

, .

o r co ffee . I am extremely care ful about my diet quite as ,

much for the care o f my teeth as fo r my complexion .

As soon as I r i s e in the morning I place my tooth brush ,

which should b e s o ft and shaped to fit the teeth i n a mug ,

o f hot water I let it remain there for a hal f hou r until

.
,

I have had my bath and my alcohol rub This hi n t I r e

'
.

c e i v e d f r om my dentist w ho said that it woul d make the

,

bristles soft besides swelling th e m so that they would fill

,

the spaces for them in the brush and thus p r eve n t the ,

bristles from loosening and d etaching themselves from the

brush a n d i rr itating the gums .

Always u s e a good tooth p owder or paste which a reli

 C A RE OF TH E MOUTH A ND TEET H 99

able chemist has analyzed and pronounce d pur e S imple .

,

pleasant and beneficial to g u ms and teeth is this

Camphor gum 1 ounce ; p recipitated chalk 5 ounces ;
, ,

pulverized orris root 3 ounces ,

.

A good variant o f this is the foll owing

P recipitated chalk M po u nd ; powdere d starch M
, ,
.

pound ; powdered orris root M po u n d ; sulphate o f q uinine , ,

M dram .

One o f my own f avorite pow d ers is ma d e according to

this formula " Carbonate o f magnesia pow d ered 3 ounces ; , ,

powdere d orris root I o u nce ; powdere d sugar 1 ounce ;

, ,

castile soap M ounce ; pow d ere d precipitate o f chalk 1 0

, .
,

ounces ; oi l o f roses 2 5 d rops ; oil o f lemon 5 drops ; oi l o f

, ,

W intergreen 5 drops ; tannin 1 5 drops

, , .

I recommend als o this as help ful an d agreeable

Precipitated chalk M pound ; powdered borax M
, ,

pound ; p ow d ered myrrh M po u n d ; powdere d orris root , ,

M dram .

Another simple and e ffective preparation is th i s

Powdered chalk 2 ou n ces ; o i l o f peppermi n t 2 drops
, , .

A good antiseptic p owder for occasional use I have found

to be this
Bicarbonate o f soda 1 ounce ; cinnamo n 1 ounce ; o i l o f
, ,

cinnamon 2 drops,
.

I f my teeth a r e discol o red I brush the m thoroughly with

this powder
S ugar o f milk 2 00 grams ; powdere d catechu 3 grams ;
, ,

o i l o f peppe r mint 4 drops ;

, o i l o f anise 4 drops ; o i l o f ,

ora n ge flower 4 drop s Pour i n to the sugar o f milk a

, .

few drops o f alcohol Add the catechu stirri n g them thor

.
,

oughly S ift them through bolting cloth and spri n kle the
.

o i l o f peppermint the o i l o f anise and the o il o f orange

,

flower into the powder .

Another which is less expensive and is also excellent is , ,

this
1 00 MY S ECRET S OF BEAUTY
P recipitated chalk g r ams ; pulverized orris ro ot 2 5 0
, 5 0 0 ,

grams ; pulverized campho r gum 1 2 grams ; alcohol ( 9 5 ,

per 1 0 drops This should be Sifted through bolting

.

cloth to remove lumps that might irritate the gums .

It has always bee n my habit to use powder only once a

day and that i n the mor n i n g I thi n k it enough because too .
,

much tooth p owder i n time wears away the e n amel Yet .

my dentist tells me that the best time to use tooth powder

is at night because the saliva ry glands being quiet duri n g
, ,

sleep when we do not talk or eat do not then secrete the

, ,

saliva whose flow has a cleansi n g action

, .

After each meal I use dental floss drawing it between ,

the teeth to remove any particles o f food that may have

lodged between them Hard toothpicks are liable t o crack
.

the enamel Also I give the mo uth a bath t hat is I thor

.
, ,

oughly rinse it several times with a good mouth wash .

O f preparations for liquid de n tifrices and mouth baths

there is no e n d This the bath o f r oses is my favo r ite
.
”
, , ,

a n d I rinse my mouth with it after each meal and before

retiring
Ti n cture o f orris ro o t 8 d rams ; spirit o f roses 8 fluid , ,

drams alcohol 9 5 per cent 8 fluid drams

,
.
, .

A n ag r eeable p r eparation for a mouth bath is made o f

Powdered borax 3 drams ; honey water 2 ou n ces ; cas
, ,

tile soap ( powdered ) I ounce ; warm water 1 pint ; oil o f

, ,

cloves 2 drops ,
.

Dissolve the powdere d soap in the warm water Add the .

other i n gredients and shake well .

Either of the followi n g washes will be found excellent

fo r the teeth
Ta nn ic acid 1 ounce ; o i l o f W interg r een 1 d ram ; p o w
, ,

dered orris roo t 4 ounces ; alcoh o l 4 ounces ; water 4

, , ,

ounces .

T i n c tu r e o f orris root I ounce ; tincture o f musk 4 , ,

drops ; o il o f rose 2 d rops ; oi l o f neroli 4 drops ; oil o f

, ,
102 MY S E C RE T S OF B EAU T Y

f ul , it i s w o rth w h ile F o r a tiny space b u t an und u e

b ut .
,

o ne between the teeth may change the natural expression

,

o f the face I kno w an A merican statesman whose face

.
,

i s o f t h e strong noble lines o f a statue o f granite but who

, ,

takes on a fatuo u s exp ression when he smiles because there

’

is a considerable space between his two upper front teeth .

A fte r the teeth are drawn into their p r oper place t hey are ,

secured by small bands o f gol d o r by a ro d at the back o f

the teeth .

I f the teeth are permanently discolored it may be because

’
you need a dentist s services It is well to call o n him at
.

least every three months Every two months is still bet

.

ter H is examination will Show any fault in the teeth that

.

may be a ti n y o ne but which i f neglected for th r ee m onths

,

longer would be troublesome Frequent visits to c on s ci en

.

tious d entist s ar e best for y o u r teeth and best for your

purse .

The teeth are th e most important o f the app ointments the ,

furnishings s o to speak of the mouth They must be kept

, ,
.

pe r fect at all costs o f care and forethought But they like .

,

all portions o f a woman s body must be delicately t r eated

’

,
.

Tooth powder should not be used more than once a day .

A nd that in the m o rning F o r the rest dental floss and a

.

delicate li quid dent r i fic e a fter each meal an d before retiring .

 CHAPTER V III

D U TI ES EV E R Y W O M A N O W ES T O H ER H AI R

T i s Monday and I note that my hair does not respon d

,

readily to the b r ush ; that it lies lifeless under my fi n

ge r s ; that i n stead o f bei n g a li v e b u shy glowi n g mass it
’

, , ,

has diminished to a wisp scarcely larger than my two fi n

gers It is as though some witch in a rage ha d plucked it
.
,

hair by hair from my head as I slept

, .

But that has happened too often t o give me alarm Once .

I wept over it I thought that I was to become as the

.

shiny headed men that s i t in the first rows o f the opera and
-

stare a n d stare But that w as lo n g ago Now I kno w

. .

when my hair shows these symptoms that it is dead but ,

o n ly temporarily and that with care I can resu r rect it

, ,

make it live agai n .

With this lifeless condition o f the hai r I hav e always

found two corresp onding c o nditio n s o f the scalp The .

scalp is hot and dry Also the brushing reveals dandru ff

—light fi ne an d profuse It is a condition that must b e
.
,

.
,

corrected .

First remov e the d andr u ff H ai r cannot thrive w h en .

that fine light powde r lies upon the scalp obstructing its
, ,

pores To rid one s sel f o f it the hair must be w ashed n o t

.
’
,

once but often I resolve upon washing it eve ry day for a

.

week I choos e the time when I have had my bath I n

. .

t he water I hav e dissolve d hal f a cake o f the best soap I

can get I f upon analysis it is proven to be made o f sper
.

maceti all the better I always have a n ew soap analyzed

.
,

as I do a new cold cream .

1 04 MY S EC R ET S O F BE AU T Y
I part my hai r and dipping a small brush the size o f an
, ,

o rdi n ary toothbrush into the water r ub the pa r ting vigor ,

o u s ly I part it again and rub that pa r ti n g a n d the next

.
, , ,

a n d the nex t scrubbing it as you say i n thi s Country st r e n

, , ,

u o u s ly with the brush dipped i n soapy wate r .

When this has been do n e I empty the bowl a n d i n a se c ,

o n d water in which the othe r hal f o f the cake of soap is

,

dissolve d I wash the hair again but this time r ub the scalp
, , ,

n ot with the brush but with my fi nge r s The n again an d

,
.

again and again until the water is as clean as whe n it ru n s

,

from the faucet I rinse the hair ,

Now comes the problem o f d ry ing it The hai r that is .

dried in the hot funnel becomes brittle a n d cracks If it is .

d r ied by d r aughts o f cold air its ow n e r contracts n eu r algia .

It Should be d r ied first by a b r isk toweli n g The towel .

should be rubbed quickly through the hair a n d upo n the

Scalp taki n g the fi r st d r ippi n g stage o f moisture from each
,

o f them The rest o f the dryi n g should be done by the

.

heat o f the hands With the tips o f the fi n ge r s every bit

.

o f space o n the scalp should be rubbed u n til dry .

A s the scalp d r ies the hair dries too Last that the hair , .
,

may not ha ng together in matted stra n ds but sta n d fl u ffily , ,

each hair for itsel f there should be the last stage o f the
,

dryi n g This is the rubbing o f the hair st r a n d by stra n d

.
, ,

between the hands Even this o n e shampoo will p r ove .

that the hair that seemed to be dead is a fter all ve ry much , ,

alive .

After the d rying the hair shoul d o f course be brushed , ,

—adequately brushed But there are curious ideas among .

women in this country as to what is adequate brushing .

Ame r ica n friends o f mine give the hair o n e hu n dred eve n ,

two hundred strokes I think this is too ma n y E x ce s

,
. .

sive b r ushi n g drags upon the hair and lo o se n s its roots

W
.

E or ty s t rok es o f the brush I be lieve to be quite enough

fl
t .

L ess brus h mg r e mass a i

g ,
i
m
g
s h a t i s n ee d e d by a 11
- E
1 06 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
until the mixture is as black as after dinner co ffee -
.

Usually fi fteen minutes are quite enough Pour it i nt o .

two more quarts of col d water and place in a gallon j ar .

Massage the scalp with it after the shampoo This is a .

favo r ite p reparation in F r ance There no grease nor oil

.

is used o n the hair .

To encourage the hair t o grow an application o f a good

quini n e mixture is a great aid Duri n g the after n oo n of
.

the second da y that I go into seclusion fo r my hair s sake I ’

massage the scalp lightly with such a tonic O r I apply it .

before going to bed Many o f the quini n e mixtures sold

.

in the drug sto r es I have used with good e ffect after hav ,

ing had the m a n alyzed by chemists .

He r e is a preparation which a f r ie n d becomi n g bald used

to secur e a splendid new lot o f hair Were I in s o serious
.

a state I might als o use it

.

Precipitated sulphu r 1 0 grams ; alcohol ( 9 5 per

,

1 0 grams ; distilled water 5 0 grams ; r osewate r 5 0 g r ams

, ,
.

And here is another which were my case radical I woul d

, ,

use "
Alcohol ( 9 5 per 1 00 grams ; acetone 1 0 0 grams ; ,

o i l o f cade, 10 grams ; precipitated sulphur 2 0 grams ; ,

pyrogallic acid 2 grams ; ch r ysopha n ic acid 2 0 ce n tigrams ;

, ,

bichloride o f mercury 4 0 centigrams

, .

O n Wed n esday I would do that which ordinarily I should

do but twice o r three times a year I would si n ge the e n ds
o f my hair . Then again I would shampoo it with the
preparation for which I gave the fi r st recipe and would ,

again give it the to n ic o f air a n d s u n bath .

A n d again I would use the camomile but i f o n e pre fers

,

to have the aid o f the d r uggist he r e is a preparatio n that is

much used in Lo n don with great satisfaction I shall give .

it in the English measure

Resorcine 1 d ram chloral hydrate 3 drams s weet
, ,
 DUTIE S TO TH E HAIR 1 07

almon d o i l 1 d r am ; chloro form 6 drams ; eau de cologn e

, , ,

6 ounces .

On Thursday if my hair is not showing great improve

,

ment I may vary my shampo o H ere is an excellent

,
.

cleansi n g o n e
Extract o f witch hazel 1 pint ; eau de cologne 8 ounces ;
, ,

chloro form 3 drams ,

.

On Friday a n d S aturday I would repeat this shampoo ,

the massage and the s u n a n d air bath .

By S unday with every mor n ing a sha mpoo a massage o f

, ,

the scalp for fi fteen minutes — not long enough to irritate

the nerves and the sun and air baths and the repose one s ,
’

hair should be excellently vigorous I f the rigorous treat .

ment Should hav e caused it to be t oo straight I would e n

courage i t to curl by the application o f rosewate r and gu m
arabic in these quantities
Q M ramYs ;BRos ewater 4 00 g rams “
,
- .

Always in brushing the hair the strokes should be back

ward straight back instead o f to the Sides for in that way
, , ,

the hair is aided to gro w lo w o n the forehead which is a ,

most desi r able mark of beauty .

Before retiring I always braid my hair in two loose braids .

I never use curling irons whe n I c an avoid it U s e the m .

cautiously B et te r not at all especially i f your hair have a

.
,

natural wave .

I f your hair persistently continues to f all o u t it i s p rob ,

ably because o f a gene r ally lowered tone o f your health .

I Should then resort to iron o r a rsenic hypodermic i njec

tions under the direction o f a p hysician When I have .

su ff ered from nervous exhaustion I have always taken this

t r eatment at a physician s prescription I have found the
’
.

iron particularly upbuilding I woul d r eceive an i n j ection

.

every day fo r ten days then rest three or four days then
, ,

begin again for another ten d ays until seven weeks hav e
108 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
gone . Always at the end o f that time I have felt rej u
v en a te d .

And a fter my complexion my hair w as the first to i m

prove Never attempt this without medical d i r ection I
.
,

repeat The inj ecti ns o f iron I pre fer r ed t o taki n g it i n

o
.

t er n ally thereby sav i ng the teeth from the bad e ffects o f the
,

iron Also the administeri n g o f medicines in this way pre

.

vents an unpleasant disturbance o f the stomach .

I f there be an unconque r able obj ection to the i n j ectio n s

a physician will prescribe cod liver o il or tablets co n tai n i ng ,

quinine and phospho rus that are a tonic t o the system .

I f the hair be prematurely gray I Should first take a

general treatment fo r t he system hoping that the gray hair ,

would fall out and a c r 0 p o f natural color appear Or i f .

I could gain my own consent to dye my hair I Should go ,

t o a druggist s and as k fo r a safe solutio n o f he nn a

’
This .

is the one hair dye which I can recommend It is ha r m .

less but its range of useful n ess is limited for it o n ly dyes

,

the hair red It is prepare d like this "

.

Henna leaves 1 ounce ; boiling water 2 pints ; henna

, ,

p owder 1 ounc e P ,
lace the henna leaves
. in a sto n e j ar .

Pour over them the wate r Allow the liquid to sta n d u n .

d isturbed for twelve hours Then strain and heat until it

.

reaches the boiling point To the liquid add the henna .

powder S tir thoroughly and strain once more The hair

. .

must be thoroughly clean when it is applied s o the best ,

time to apply it is immediately after a shampoo .

B ut do not place too much reliance upo n the henna .

Look to the state o f your gene r al health and be sure to k eep

the scalp cool clean a n d moist If this is done the next
, .

crop o f hair for we raise new hair every three years you ,

k n ow — may come in the former natural color a n d the

former unwelcome gray may disappear befo r e the new
crop U s e a good hair tonic t o bring about that condition
.
1 10 MY S ECRET S OF BEAUTY
woma n rarely su ff ers she makes her life more than ever ,

wholesome S he lives out o f doors the more S he takes

. .

more regular Sleep and mo re nourishing food S he i s mo r e .

than ever punctual and thorough as to he r exercise A n d .

havi n g do n e all these s he may assist nature with this rem

edy which her less wholesome Sister has used with su c
,

cess to arrest the turni n g gray o f her hair

,

G ood claret 3 0 grams ; sulphate o f iron M gram To

, , .

use the cook s p arla n ce B r ing these to a boil

’
Keep in
, .

a well corked j ar in a cold place a n d wash the hai r with it

after each Shampoo I f necessary it can be used two o r.

three times a week Permit the mixture to dry o n the hair

. .

H ere is another wash that has proved success ful when

t he hair was turning g r ay
S ulphur 2 ounces ; bay rum 8 ounces
, , .

S ulphur to a degree strengthens the pigment — that i s ,

the natu r al colori n g matter o f the hair Use the sulphur .

in lumps for it will not adhere t o the scalp as will sulphur

,

in the powder state .

If the case be beyond such relief a F r ench dressing ,

which those who use it disdain to call a dye is used by ,

bru n ettes whose hair has tur n ed p rematurely gray "

White wax 2 ou n ces ; olive o i l 5 ounces ; burnt cork
, ,

( powdered fine ) I ounce The white w,

ax and oil should .

be melte d together over a sl o w fire Add the bur n t cork .

and mix well The mixture should be applied to the hair

.

as a pomade a n d tho r oughly brushed in

,
.

Here is a goo d cor r ective for falling ha 1r

Oil o f sweet almo n ds 2 ounces ; alcohol 2 gills ; a qua , ,

ammonia 2 ounces ; go o d whiskey or rum 4 ou n ces ; gum

, ,

camphor M ounce S hake thoroughly each time before

, .

using a n d rub thoroughly into the scalp Massage your .

scalp well so that you can feel the skin o f the scalp
,

move .

F or a scalp that is to o oily u se borax o r bicarbonate of

 D U TIE S TO TH E HAIR I I I

so d a in t he we ekly s hampoo A blon d e o f m y ac qu aint .

ance believes tha t the j uice o f o n e lemon used in the last

rinsing water after a shampoo a d ds to the brilliance o f her
”
hair while als o drying it enough to make it flu ffy .

Allow yo u r hair to be straigh t i f N at u re planned it so , .

Find some becoming metho d o f wearing it straight If .

the ends ha v e become broken an d the hair is thin an d u n

e v en s et about raising a new and stronger crop B ut fi rst .

prepare the soil for the new crop b y cleansing y our scalp
with frequent shampoos o ne e v er y other day i f necessary
, ,

an d by using on it a good o i l O live oi l is an admirable .

agent fo r loosening and feeding a heat dried scalp Have -

.

the e n d s s mge d o r clippe d Massage t he scalp ever y day

.
,

unless it is too ten d er to endure massage that often I r r i .

tating the nerves which protest against s u ch treatment does

, ,

far more harm than good A few applications o f electricity

.

b y a physician f a miliar with y ou r cas e sho u l d s tim u late

the a n aemic scalp .

A few y ears ago t h er e wer e alm os t no goo d h air t onics .

Now there are many Almost any toni c contai ning a liberal
.

amount o f qu inine is a good hai rg ro wer H ere is o ne much .

u s ed in P aris

O i l of almonds 6 o u nces ; oil o f rosema ry 2 d rams ; o il

, ,

o f mac e 60 drops
, .

An excellent tonic f o r the scalp is

A lcohol M pint ; o i l of mace M ounce
‘

, ,

One that has many advocates is this

Flui d extract o f j abo randi 2 ounce ; glycerine 1 ounce ;
1
, ,

s u lpha te o f q uinine 1 0 grains ; cologne

, 2 ounces ; rose ,

water 1 0 ounces ; ba y mm 2 ounces

, , .

T he wash that h as toni c properties in a dd ition to being

an excellent cleanser is made as f ollows
P recipitated sulphu r 10 grams ; alcohol ( 9 5 per
,
IO

grams ; d istilled water 5 0 grams ; ro sewater 5 0 grams A p

, ,
.

ply i t to the scal p a s all other tonics are applie d with the
1 12 MY S E C RET S O F B E AU T Y

tips o f the fi nge r s o r a soft brush fo r in stance an old too th , ,

brush .

T hi s to ni c will keep the scalp cool clean an d moist an d ,

help pre v ent the hair falling ou t

Tinctur e o f cantharides ( alcoholic ) 1 ounce ; spirits o f ,

rosemary 1 M o u nces ; rose water 3 ounces ; aromatic vine

, ,

gar I M o u nces
, .

P arisiennes have recently been washing their hair in

gasoline Not beca u se they believe that it will cause the
.

hair to g r o w but fo r the same purpose that it i s used upon

,

a spotted garment to cleanse the garment and remove the

spots Also gasoline make s the hair so ft and silken o f
.

texture I am t ol d, .

I have myself u se d gasoline a few t ime s o n my hair ,

but always try to keep it away from the scalp as much

as possibl e I canno t b eliev e that gasoline is good f or
.

the scalp .

I take the gasoline shampo o somewhat as I do the water

bath for the hair I wash it in a bowl o f the gasoli n e pour
.
,

o ut the fi rst bowl ful and wash it th r ough a n other then an ,

other until the last bowl ful is entirely clean Let as little
,
.

gasoline as possib le get to the scalp But the shampoo is .

always taken o n the morning o f a clear day Never do I .

have it done while there is a light o r fire i n the room I f .

I did there would be no more Lin a Cavalieri Gasoline is

,
.

most inflammable an d o ne cannot be t oo care ful when

using it .

N ever use v aselin e on the h air nev er n eve r I t is 11013 , , .

harm ful It is merely useless It no more makes the hai r

. .

grow than would Spri n kling flour over the face make it
gro w It is derived from a mineral and nothi n g o f mineral
.
,

origin causes the hair to grow I neve r u s e grease on the .

hai r Afte r the shampoo once a week I use the camomile

.
, ,

lotion I have already describ e d rubbing it in carefully ,

with the points o f the fingers an d o n no account permit ,

1 14 M Y S EC R ET S O F B EA U T Y

and Clean will always describe it I f the s cal p b e cool

, .

and clean the hair w ill be beautif u l I f the scalp be not

.

cool and clean the hair will speedily reveal that fact H ow .

to keep it so during the summer is a probl em that every

woman must be careful to solve acco r ding to her surrou n d
ings and facilities B ut someh o w she must attai n that e n d
.

i f she woul d preserv e the beauty o f her hair .

Keep it free fro m dust T o do s o it must be f requently

—
.

shampooed twice as often I Shoul d s ay as in the winter

, , .

I f for instance it is your habit t o wash you r h air ever y

, ,

two weeks in winter try washing it every week in summe r

, .

If it has required a weekly shampoo in winter y ou will u n

doubtedly find it necessary to wash it twice a week in mid
summer But you must j udge that yo u rsel f keeping before
.

you the two wor d s Cool and Clean which should ,

al w ays be your gui d es When the dust from the hair soil s
.

the fingers and brush it i s time for a shampoo even though

for a time the hair must b e washe d e v ery d ay The oh .

servant o n e will n otice that so soon as the hair is unclean

it falls o u t .

Also she will observ e tha t an itching scalp prece d es al

,

most immediately the falling o u t o f the hair With the s e .

obj ect lessons in cleanliness she Shoul d resolv e to b e v i gi

lant S pare t he shampoo an d spoil the hair
. .

A good shampoo espec ially for an itching scalp c on

, ,

tains beside the usual borax for softening the water an d ,

the castile soap for cleansing the scalp these

M i bt s f 2
S ggi i j l
u
fi c e Apply b y rubbi n g
the whites o f the eggs thoroughly i n to the scalp with the
tips o f the fingers Afte r this application moisten the scal p
.

thoroughly with the lemon j uice diluted in o n e quart of

cool water .

For the usual shampoo u n d er ordinary circumstance s the

e ssentials are "
 DUTIE S T O TH E HAIR 1 15

ard women say " I wa sh ed m y hair yesterday

and to day it is as ba d as ever
-
I f that is true it i s you r .

o wn fault You did not give it a thoro u gh shampo o For

. .

a thorough shampoo care and nicety are necessary .

First prepare the water fo r a head bath b y pou r ing into

the stationary wa sh stan d or the po rtable washbow l o r ,

basin the soap shavings O ver these pour a q uart of hot

, .

wate r With hands o r a long handle d spoon stir until the

.

soap has dissolve d an d the substanc e has become mere

lather P a r t the hair which I assume has previously been
.
,

well combe d from the top o f the middle o f the forehea d

,

to the back o f the neck M ake similar partings at the .

sides and transverse partings h ere an d there as man y as

, ,

possible With the finger tips o r with a so ft old nail br u sh

.
, , ,

scrub the scalp with this lather In this way go o v er the .

scalp several times u ntil it tingles under you r v ery touch

, ,

and the skin is loosened f rom the scalp beneath When .

a fine glow convinces you that this part o f the task is well
done attack you r hair .

Dip your hands into the lather an d taki n g the hair b e

tween them wash i t thoroughly but carefully with light
,

touch as you would a fine handkerchief When this has .

been thoroughly done empty the bowl an d wash the hair

through a secon d water If to use the hair dr esser s ex .
,
’

pression the water r u ns clear you will kno w that the

,
” “

hair is thoroughly washed I f the water is dark showing .

,

that the lather has not thoroughly removed the dust apply
more lather Then again was h it in cool water The
. .

rinsing is best don e with a spray It should be con .

t i nu e d until t h e water pouring o ff the hair is as clea n

as when it flows fro m the hydrant The clearness .

o f the rinsing water is the onl y criterion o f whether the hair

1 16 M Y S E C RE T S O F BEAUTY
is cl ea n T h e rinsi n g water Should be g r adually cooled
.
,

but it should n ever be cold It is my opi n io n that cold

.

water is to o severe a shock t o the scalp .

D ry the hair as carefully as you have washed it Never .

dry with a hot air fu nn el nor at a radiator nor fireplace

,

nor stove The i n tense heat makes the hair brittle A

. .

goo d brisk toweling is a method always available I f you .

’
haven t time to dry the hair by toweling wait for the sham
p oo until you have time .

I f you can s u n dry it so much the better S eated at an .

open window shake the moisture out of the hair and as it

slowly dries massage the scalp with the fingers The proc .

ess o f drying will be aided and neuralgia pre v ente d by

vigorous massage o f the scalp .

This is an excellent time fo r the ha 1r 3 d aily airing The .

hair needs ve n tilation as well as your room your lingerie , ,

o r yo u r bed line n Every day it should be shaken out and

.

allowed to blow about in the wind A balcony o f a summer .

cottage is admirable for this purpose .

I know an E nglish beauty who always gives h er hai r

its airing as she sits u n der an old apple t r ee in the back
y ard o f her father s home A f rie n d o f mine shakes her
’
.

hair down and sitti n g o n the deck o f her husband s yacht

,
’

lets the wind play hide and seek in it every afternoon A n .

other friend retur n ing by steamshi p from he r vacatio n t r i p

to Maine sat up aloft and tumbling her hair about her
shoulders let the win d whip it at will .

Form the habit o f always letting your hair d own when

you s i t alo n e in yo ur room This hal f hour or hou r s air
.
’

ing gi v e s the hair exercise as well When a hair ha n gs by

f
.

its roots it is gaini n g the s trength it loses while the hair

is b eing support ed upon the head by pins .

If the treatment o f the hair has pas s ed the s tage o f p r e

v e nti o n an d reached that o f cu r e dry falling hair can b e
, ,

helpe d b y this v ariant o f the shamp oo I hav e de scri be d "

1 18 MY S ECRET S OF B EAU T Y .

While in y our room give the hair plenty o f res t an d ex

e rc i s e B oth are provided by brushing the hair an d letting
.

it hang loose as long as possible in the su n and air baths .

Usually the hair needs in summer at least o ne shampoo a

week u n less the hair b e extraordina rily dry O ne o f the
‘
.
,

b eS E mat s v s ry simply "

s hav ed
- g p z
a a s11
.
aab t a ,
s a ab c

f 3 Elfy shampo o thi s is good for moist scalps

,
“

Fo
Alcohol ( 9 5 per 1 q uart ; table salt 1 ounce ; qui ,

nine 1 6 ou n ce
,
-
.

I f you pass your holiday at the seash o re you will wel

come a formula that will keep the hair in curl Here is .

o n e o f the best I know "

Gum arabic M ounce ; carbo n ate o f potash M ounce

, ,

glycerine M ounce ; rosewater 1 pint ; Po rtugal extract 2

, , ,

ou n ces .

Fo rtunate are you indeed if you come back from your , ,

summe r outing with hair thick and lustrous and scalp cool ,

a n d loos e skinned as when you le ft But even if you hav e .

achieved this your hair is certain to be faded for the sun s

, ,
’

rays while stimulating to the scalp diminish the richnes s ,

o f the hue o f the hair .

The p r obability is that the scalp has been dried by the

heat and dust Mass age with cocoanut o i l o r the following
.

tonic
S weet almon d o i l 3 o u nces ; oil o f cinnamon 3 0 drops ; , ,

o i l o f rosemary 1 ounce , .

L et me tell you o f an experience which taught me muc h

about the hair I was invited to an info rmal house pa rty
. .

Arriving at an early hour in the morning I was met in the

hall by my charmi n g hostess S he was as lovely as ever .
,

but there w as s o methi n g odd about he r something u m ,

u sual .

S he laughed at the puzzle d look in my face Yo u are .

 DUTIE S TO TH E HAIR 1 19

b wil d ered she said

, I look di ff erent b u t yo u d o not
.
,

know ho w It is this I am resting my hair

. . .

Wo n derful woman " I cried It is the great Amer .

ican; common se n se ”
.

Then I saw that her lovely blon d hair short as is all , ,

curli ng hair rested about he r shoulders in a golden shower

, .

It was parted in the middle S he had always worn it in .

a pompadour o r some modificatio n o f the pompadour Now .

it was parted in the middle and combed as smoothly as ,

i t s rebelliou s luxuriance would permit away from that part ,

and flat upon the top o f the head Glistening from its .

recent b ru shing it h u ng about her shoulders fresh combed , ,

fresh brushed and with the faintest o dor o f a cleansing

,

tonic hangin g about it It ha d no ribbon about it No . .

hairpin confined it It was free It was resting after the

. .

ni n e months toil o f a fashionabl e season

’
.

“ ”
Every mo rning she said it has ha d a t h orough
, ,
“

combing and slight brushing Eve ry night a slight combing .

and thorough brushing The fi r s t week I gave it a sham .

p oo eve ry day I continued until the last trace o f dan

.

d ru if was gone A s u n dried Shampoo o f course Every

.
-
, .

othe r sort except th e toweling I consider barbarous and

, ,

destructive to the hair Every afte r noon when the s u n .

shone in my be d room window I have let down my hair

and s at where the breez e and sunshine came thro ugh the
O pen windo w S itting there I h ave taken my hair between
.

my p alms a nd strand by strand have rubbe d it lightly u m

, i
,

til every hair has ha d its bu rnishing When this was d one ‘

I shook it ou t loosely between my thumb and fo refi ngers

s o that the win d an d s u n coul d reach every part o f the hair
”
and scalp .

My friend s hair h ad made almost instant response to

’

the treatment Fro m being dead hair it had become live

.

as a galvanic battery From being dull an d faded it ha d

.
12 0 MY S E C RET S OF B E AUTY
become rich and glistening All over he r scalp was the .

fi n e first fuzz o f a new crop o f hair And the old galvan .

i z e d hair had grown an inch lo n ger in one month .

S he had experimented with vario us loti ons o r dry sham

poos This s he found the greatest cleanser an d tonic fo r
.

her hair "

Peruvian bark ( powdered ) 3 ounces ; rum 1 pint , , .

An other aid to this summer rest o f the hair was a n ew

brush S he showed it to me It was a plain wooden
. .

backed hair b rush with the bristles s et well int o the back
,

i n groups The b r istles in these groups were irregular

.
,

in order that they might reach all p arts o f the head the ,

long o n es pe n etrating the hair where it was thickest the ,

short ones s u ffic i ng for the parts where it was thin n est .

S he adj ure d vaseline as I have advised my readers to

,

do It is a mineral o il and ca n not cause the hair to g r ow

. .

Instead She rubs olive o i l o r bee f marrow well int o the

,

roots o f the hair at night softening the scalp and fe r tili z ,

ing a dry area .

Also she varied these t reatments w ith this which being ,

a woman o f wide readi n g s he had c opied from The La n cet

,

Alcohol ( 9 5 per 4 ounces ; q u i n ine 1 5 grains ; ,

casto r oil M ounce , .

Careful to massage the hea d gently ever y night after its

brushi n g she kept the scalp loose When it was hot she
,
.

cooled it by applications o f cracked ice in an ice cap S he .

shu n ned the tempting fi n e tooth comb that removes dan ,

dru ff it is true but perpetrates atrocities u pon the scalp

, ,

as painful and disfigu r ing as scratches upon the face .

O n ce a month she had her hair si n ged before a shampoo ,

.

Her g r eatest concession to the conventions was the slip

pi ng over her shining well curried mane a net o f exactly
,

the same sha d e which she wore at dinner

,
a token o f ,
“

”
respect for the soup and butter merely she explained , , .

One hundre d strokes every evening before retiring are

12 2 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
S ulphate of q uinine
grai n s ; fluid extract o f j abo ran di
,
20 ,

1 ounce ; glycerine 2 ou n ces ; colog n e 4 ounces ; bay rum

, , ,

4 ou n ces ; rosewater 2 0 ou n ces , .

The above is excelle n t also for hair that is t oo dry For .

moist hair I advise a dry shampoo o r tonic treatment o f

this
Eau de colo gn e 4 ounces ; borax M ou n ce ; ti n cture o f
, , ,

cochineal 2 ounce
'

1
.
,

S ome blondes whom I know use the following methods

to keep their hair light
Washing soda 2 tablespoonfuls ; water 1 quart D is
, , .

solve the soda i n the water and give the hair a thorough
shampoo with the mixture once a week i f neede d less often ,

i f necessary The susceptibility o f the hair to treatment

.

determines the number o f the t r eatments .

A half dozen drops o f ammonia in shampoo shoul d k eep

the hair light Als o o ne teaspoonful o f p eroxide of hy dr o
.

gen in one q uart o f water will lighten witho u t 1nju r i ng the

hair .

Bear in min d that whatever makes the hair d ry makes

it brittle an d use any prepa r ation discreetly studying the
, ,

e ffect o f on e or two applications o n the hair .

Remember that headache is o ne o f the greatest foes o f

the hair Wh en my scalp is f eve r ish I sometimes apply
.

a rubber cap fille d with cracked ice for a hal f an hour o r

longer u ntil the congestion is removed

,
.

Never retire without brushing your hair The hair is .

a dust trap an d no dai n ty woman would r etire without

,
’
removing the day s accumulation o f dust The b rush t ells .

its o w n story o f the day s catch o f dust i f you take the ’

,

trouble to examine it After b rushing the hair loosen the .

,

skin from the scalp by slow fi rm massage pressing the skin , ,

towar d the crown .

T hi s i s th e best tim e to appl y a h air t onic A goo d h ai r .

t onic i s ma d e o f
 D UTI E S T o TH E H AI R 12 3

O il mace 2 grams ; essenc e o f rosemary 60 grams ;

of , ,

o i l o f sweet alrn on d s 3 0 grams , .

I hav e fo und that while I may p r otect my skin my eyes

, ,

my hands somewhat from the winds o f winter my hair al ,

ways su ffers from i t The wind I found dried the o il in

.

it making it harsh an d brittle Or d inary massage an d

,
.

brushing I di d not fi n d as use ful a s in the summer I t rie d .

many remedies fo r the d ry con d ition o f the scalp w h ich , ,

o f course p roduced d ry hair

,
A t last I hit upon this whic h .
,

I rubbed well into the ro o ts o f the hair be fore retiring on

the night before m y s hampooing d ay "
Lanoli n 1 ounce ; sulphu r M ounce
, , .

L et me explain I d id not rub this hapha z ar d upo n the

,

scalp I have seen women dab a hair scalp emollient s o

.

carelessly upon the scalp here and there that they might , ,

quite as well have le ft it u ndone an d employe d their t ime

fo r better purpo ses I d id t his as thoro u ghly as I think
.
, ,

everything we u n d ertake shoul d be d one .

First I combed the hair thoroughly d oing it slowly b e

, , ,

ginning about an inch from the ends holding t he long hair ,

near the roots s o tha t rough c ombing might not pull it out .

Then I bru she d it slowly b eginning at the roots and b rush ,

ing downwar d with long slow strokes to the v e r y en d I , .

parte d the hair into fi fty strands combing it smoothl y awa y ,

fro m each little parting .

Then with fingers dippe d into the mixture o f lanolin

,

and sulphu r I began at the hair line an d w ith firm long

, , ,

strokes the e ff ect o f which was to loosen the skin from th e

,

scalp I rubbed the mixture well into the roots From

, .

the hair line I followe d the parti n gs to the c rown from ,

which it radiated This done and thoroughly done I u n

.
, ,

braided my hair and combed and brushed it o n ce more and ,

allowed it to hang loose for an hour o r more exercising ,

an d v entilating it until I retire d when it was b raided

, ,

and tied into two large loose brai d s an d tie d at the ,

124 MY S ECRET S O F B EAU T Y

end with narrow ribbons I never use either elastic o r .

thread to fasten the ends o f the h air for I think it breaks ,

the hairs maki n g the ends uneven

,
.

The next m o rning I have a shampoo O rdinarily I use .

a lather of white castile soa p an d warm water But in .

winter noting the dryi n g e ffects o f the cold winds upon my

,

hair I try to use a shampoo which will aid in maki n g the

,

hair soft and lustrous doi n g for the time the work o f the
,

natural oils which seem to have suspende d operations

,

Yolks o f 2 e gs 3; w arm water I qu art

m
.
,
w

he hair i ntg fifty Stan d s as I have d escribe d the

“

I pfi
.

, ,

night before and into each o f the partings and particularly

,

around the hair line which a woman can n ot a fford to neg

,

lect I rub the tips o f the finge r s with the yolks o f the eggs
, ,

u sing the tips o f the first two fingers When this has been .

tho r oughly do n e I rinse the hair a n d scalp in warm water .

“ ”
After the hair has been through the first water I turn ,

upon the scalp a spray from a small hose one o f the small ,

size sprays now made fo r shampooing Thi s distributes .

the water better and the force is not so great as when it

,

is poured from a p itcher in the old fashione d home way -

.

The full force o f city water must never be used upon the
tender scalp The little sprays are C heap and a good invest
.

ment The shower from the spray can be gradually cooled

.
,

but I do not believe in extremes o f temperatu r e for the ha ir

any more than I do fo r the complexion I never use either .

col d or hot water for a Shampoo no r cold water fo r rins ,

ing Warm t o cool water is a su fficient gradation that

.

s oothes the ne r v es of the scalp while dashes o f ho t and ,

cold wate r overstimulate and shock them .

1 26 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
j ust be fore d inner a tepi d o r warm bath with a s h owe r ,

afterwar d as a cleanser
, .

The col d bath is no t cleansing O n the contrary it .

merely c l ose s t h e pores shutting the gates upon the e ffet e

,

matter that is trying to escape from the system by mean s

o f the millions o f little gateways in the skin It is v aluable .

as a tonic to the ne rv ous syst em by means o f the Shock ,

it gi v es t o that system But n o t ev en my lord man mighty

.
,

in his st rength shoul d take such powerful tonics without

,

ha v ing consulted his physician about it .

A man who always seems to shine with the radiance o f

his bath po u rs a wineglass ful o f perfumed ammonia into a
tub o f water This softens the water removes the o d or s
.
,

o f pers p iration and whitens the skin .

An exquisite w ho i s the fashion in L ondon uses a quarter

o f a pound o f borax in his bath to soften the w ater an d s o

re fi n e his skin .

I once heard the story o f the physician with so admirabl e

a skin that all his women patients asked the secret o f his

complexion s perfection H e told o n e who generously told

’
’
.
,

many others that knowing the mighty power o f absorptio n

,

o f the skin ,
he had experimented with the u s e o f Epsom
salts in the bath He had found it stimulating and in con
.
,

sequence had used a pound o f the sal t s d issol v ed in a bath

,

tub ful o f water every day , .

A salt bath is stimulating Rubbing handfuls o f tab l e

.

salt o n the body get ti n g it into a fine glow before the bath
, ,

is on e means o f absorbing the salt into the system A n .

othe r is pouring an ordinary fi v e cent bag o f table salt into-

the water and letting it thoro ughly dissol v e before taking

the bath.

But as k any well groome d man if baths are su ffi cient f or

-

cleanliness and h e will answer N o No man can be clean ,

.

unles s he walks f o u r to six miles a d ay ”

There m u st be .

then three baths t he col d p lunge in the morning the natu ral
, ,
W h
fac e
o

an
e

d fig u b
.

als f
re ,
M

m M m C a a l i i ad m i s
v

uth
AXI N E
er

o
re

or
E LLIO T T

no t o n
er ad m
ly c ss c
fo r he r l a i l i n e
s
s
i r a b l e t a te i n d re
of
ss .
12 8 MY S ECRET S O F B E A UTY

stre n gthens the roots as walking strengthe n s the muscles

o f the legs or rowing the muscles o f the a r ms .

Ev e ry man fears the ugly d ewlap often called the

,

s tatesman chin. H e can prevent this by carrying his head

'

and chin well up He can to some extent correct it by

.

u sing webbing chin ban da ges at night .

 C HA P TER X

TH E C AR E O F TH E N A I LS A ND F I N G ER S

A I NT Yfinger nails are N ature s fin ishing touch f or ’

a beautiful woma n They have always seemed to me

.

to be the n atural j ewels o f the hands and if they are in good ,

order that othe r j ewels ar e unnecessary if not super

, ,

fl uous .

Let me describe these j ewels at their best They are o f .

color pink as the deep fresh heart o f a blush rose In

, , .

shape they are nearly like the fi lb e r t nut In size they a r e .

in good propo rtion to the Size o f the fi nger and the hand .

They must be neither too la rge nor too small They must .

seem to be long They are more like the petals o f a hal f

.

blown rose o r the lining o f a sea shell than an ything else

,
-
,

in nature At their base must be a crescent tiny in p ro

.

portion to the siz e o f the nail but as clear cu t an d silvery,

as a young moon o n the night o f its d ébut in the sky .

Is there need to say that the othe r end of the nail b e

spotless as u tterly beyond suspicion as the character o f
,
’
Caesar s wife " Ther e must not be the slightest rim nor
shadow to darken the fair pi nkne s s o f the nails .

The skin a b out them must s eem to bear but r emote and
casual relation to the nails It must be discourage d from
.

a n y i n timacy with the nail any close r intimacy shall we

, ,

say than the thorn y calyx with the rose

,
" It serves i n ,

deed the same pur p ose It is the mer e protector o f its

, .

cha r ming charge .

Thus should the nails be But how to make and ke e p .

them so is what we must d iscuss to da y In t he fir st p l ace -

.
,

129
13 0 MY S E C RET S OF B E AUTY

as to th eir d ail y care If they are in normally goo d co n

.

dition the mo rning hand bath should be supplemented by

,

soaking the nails themselves fo r five min utes in warm soap

suds o r lather made o f castile soap .

This supplemental nail bath shoul d b e followed by a

careful pressing back with the to wel of the skin about the
nails until each portion o f the skin is d etached .

A third step i n the daily care o f the nails is t o brush

them vigorously with a nail brush dippe d into the soap
s uds .

Notice next whether any portion o f the skin about the

nails is still attached or if not attached is slightly sore
, , .

If it is that portion o f the nail should be anointed with

,

a bit o f campho r ice o r with vaseline o r la n oli n or a ,

preparation co n taining witch hazel I f necessar y wrap it .

,

round with white musli n o r white silk .

If in spite o f all these endeavors there remains a faintly

dark rim around the en d of the nail o n e fu rther process ,

is necessary Wrap around the pointed end o f an orange

.

wood stick a bit o f antiseptic cotton Moisten this with a .

few drops o f peroxi d e o f hydrogen With this ca r efully .

remove the d ust that may remain between the nail and the
S kin . Never use a steel instrument an ivo ry nail cleaner , ,

o r anything harder than the cotton wrapped around the

end of the oran ge s tick I f you d o the sensitive skin u n

.
,

d er the nail is lace r ate d Dust settles upon the ragged ends
.

o f the ski n an d the ugly d i s fig uring dark rim is evident

, ,
.

I f the n ails become brittle it is because they are dry

an d th e y should at once be moisten e d by an o i l bath Into .

a sma ll shall o w bowl pour a gill or more o f oli v e oil

,
.

S oak the nail in thi s for ten minute s o r longe r every even
ing u ntil the condition is correcte d I f for any reason .

this is not feasible massage them every evening with cold

,

cream I f white spots appear under the nails rub t he nail

.

with slice s o f lemon .

1 32 MY S ECRET S O F B EAUTY

Most manicures assist the process by soaking the hands

alternately for five mi n utes a fter they have been filed The .

palms o f the hands add a polish to nails that a r e not readily

suscept ible to the polisher You will find that the oftener .

y o u polish your nails the mo r e s u sceptible do they become

o f p olish .

This nail pow d er len d s itsel f well to polishing

P ulverized starch M ounce ; boric acid pow dered M
, ,

ou n ce ; talcum powder M ounce ; tincture o f carmine 1 0

, ,

drops .

Another wh ich I have use d satisfacto rily is composed o f

Oxide o f tin thoroughly p o wdered 1 0 drams ; oil o f
, ,

lavende r 60 d r ops ; tincture o f carmine 2 0 drops One half

, ,
.
-

o f this q u antity may be put up and will serve for ma ny

weeks .

S till another good n ail p olish is made like this

Z inc oxide I ounce ; carmine 4 grams ; oil o f violet to
, ,

suit taste .

This nail rouge is excellent

Fresh lard 1 dram ; finely powdered carmi n e M dram ;
, ,

o i l o f bergamot 1 2 drops ,
.

This which was d erived I am told f r om the Orie n t is

, , , ,

e ff ective
Chippings o f alkanet M ounce ; alcohol 9 5 per ce n t 1
, , .
,

ounce After this mixture macerates for o n e week it b e

.

comes a brilliant colo r Apply to the fi n ger tips with .

j eweler s cotton blending it afterwar d s with more cotton

’
,
.

Personally I prefer to d o my own nails They should .

be done every day to attain pe r fection Two o r three times .

a week are needful and at least once a week essential

,
.

The purpose is to ke ep t he nail s clea n to make them ,

shapely to preserv e their color to adorn the tips o f the

, ,

fi ngers .

I have tried to make my nails the exact shape of a filb e rt .

I keep them ve ry p ointed an d do not sand p aper that is , , ,

 THE CARE OF N AI LS AND F I N GER S 133

s orten them o ftener than twice a month But the d ail y

h .

pr ocess i s this
F irst to study them in a good light an d t o s e e w h eth e r
,

the re be any stains o n the finge r s I f there are I r u b the .

stai ns with pumice s tone until they have disappeare d .

S eco n d I look care fully to the half moons at the bas e

,

o f the nails They are as illuminating to the nails as the

.

n e w moon to the heavens I f they are well de fi ned I

.

merely press the cuticle back gently when I dry my hands .

But if they be overgrown with cuticle I give the m a bath

i n olive o i l Into a shallow vessel I pou r a half pint o f
.

olive o i l Into this I dip my nails holding them there fo r

.
,

five mi n utes i f they are but slightly overgrown fifteen ,

minutes i f extremely cove r e d with the cuticle Then when .

the cuticle is so ftened I care fully go over each on e with a

li n en towel so ftly p ressing back the skin I f it clings o h
,
.

s t i n at e l I d o not persist but resolve that the fingers must

y ,

have seve ral o i l baths Also I resolve that that night I

.

will rub them a s carefully with cold cream as I d o any

other part o f the hands In a week the half moo ns shoul d
.

sta n d beautifully reveale d I f not I continue the o il baths

.

in the mo rning an d col d cream applications at night until

they a r e visible .

Third I twist abo u t the poin t o f an orange woo d stick

,

a bit o f cotton dip the en d into peroxide o f hydrogen and

,

rub the dampene d point o f the o range wood stick along

the inside o f the nail Mark that I sai d nail not skin
.
,
.

The reaso n s o many persons must kee p their nails short to

keep them clean is that they use sharp or j agged i n str u ments
to clean the nail a n d pressi n g this upon the skin beneath
,

t he nail makes it ragged The uneven edges o f the skin

.

catch the dust and give the g r ay o r even black r i m that is

so ugly a border fo r the fingers .

Fou r th with a C hamois I polish each finger nail b y three

,

o r f our strokes using the least touch o f nail rouge be fore

,
1 34 MY S ECRET S OF B E A UTY

th e p o lishing P ink nails are charming Re d nails are

. .

horrible .

Don t I beg allow your h a n ds to grow old Hands

’
, , .
,

unless well cared for bet r ay the age more quickly than does
,

the face .

S tudy your hands well Don t let the skin grow coarse .
’
.

Don t let the veins grow large Don t let the ski nha ng in
’
.
’

folds and creases about them Never allow the divorce o f .

the skin from the muscles .

The young hand is sm o oth and firm The o ld is rough .

skinned and loose muscled In the youth ful hand the vei n s .

are only faintly i n dicated In the old hands they stand .

fo r th as whipcords When the ha n d is you n g the knuckles

.
,

are inconspicuous When it is old they are more promi n e n t

.
,

than any other part o f the ha n d There is between the .

young ha n d and the o ld the same di fference there is b e

tween the thin bark o f a sappli n g and the thick rugged ,

bark o f a storm beaten o ld o ak The nails i n youth are

-
.

thin and pink In old age they a r e thick and yell o w

. .

Knowi n g these signs the i n telligen t student o f beauty

,

culture will avoid them S he will discourage these symp .

toms o f multiplyi n g years The cause o f aged hands is .

the common cause o f bodily decay defective ci r culation ,

.

I f you note sign s o f ageing in your hands atte n d more ,

than ever before to the circulation Exercise promotes

'

circulation Exercise your hands particularly the finge r s

.
, .

Fancy that you r fingers are but loosely attached to the

hands and that you are trying to shake them o ff Raise .

them from the elbows a n d with the ha n ds bent at the wrist

, , ,

vigorously shake them with fi n gers spread and loose ( 1 )

,
.

S hake them f r om r ight to left and back again ( 2 ) S hake .

them up and down ( 3 ) S hake them round and round

. .

Invent exercises o f your own Any movement that will .

cause the blood to fl ow at an increased rapidity will r enou r

i sh and so rej uvenat e th e h an d s We rea d in poem and .
136 MY S ECRET S OF BEAUTY

will run out o f the minstead o f downward so that the bloo d

will run into them .

Also to avoid this congeste d condition o f the han d s that ,

distends the vei n s unbeco mingly avoid lifting heavy weights

, .

F o r lifting anything o f heavy weight st r etches the hands ,

maki ng them larger and o v e rfi lli ng the blood vessels .

Eve n pia n o playing enlarges the ha n ds that reach the oc

taves a n d to some extent causes swollen vei n s The beau
,
.

ties o f the old French courts s o well u n derstood this that

they never use d their hands when it was avoidable .

Enla rged knuckles o n e O f the sign s o f age c an be p r e

, ,

vented by avo iding overwork a n d car ryi n g heavy weights .

I f the k n uckles b e natu r ally la rge it is well to keep the ,

han d s well plumped by good ci r culation and much feeding

o f the tissues with oils and creams .

This same p recaution wi ll prevent the h an d s becomi n g

unshapely But i f they were u n shapely fro mbirth they
.
,

can be improved by p inching the tips o f the fi ngers f r o m

the sides o r by wea r ing clamps o r if these be not available
, , ,

by weari n g thimbles on all the fin gers a hal f hour or more

each day .

They can be made longer and slimmer by massaging the

hands with long sl o w strokes fro m the w r ists to the tips
,

o f the fingers always with the hands well oiled or covered

,

with p ure cold cream .

Massage o f the finge r s can be profitably combined with

massage o f the face by usi n g a rotary motion o f the fi nger
tips This stimulates bo th face and finger muscles
. .

Han ds o f a n y age shoul d be kept white Reddene d .

hands are always unsightly whatever the cause There

,
.

are four causes for reddened hands One is washing in .

hot or cold water An o ther is exposure t o cold air A thi r d

. .

is extremely ha r d manual labor A fourth i s the habit o f.

holding the ha n ds dow n ward .

There are a good many bleach es for the hands O ne .

 TH E CA RE O F N A I LS A ND F I N GER S 137

of the best is washing t he han d s in a bowl o f warm milk

every night Another i s that o ld frie n d o f the dainty
which should be within reach o f every toilet table — a
.
,

lemon The r e is no bleac h better than hal f a lemon rubbe d

.

o n the back o f palms o f the hands be fore retiring .

This too is an excellent bleach which als o softens the

, ,

hands The addition o f perfume makes it a pleasa n t p rep

.

aration
L emon j uice 1 ounce ; honey 1 ounce ; eau de cologn e
, , ,

1 ounce .

When m y hands are soiled I was h them in warm

never hot — water w ith a pu r e soap L ifting my ha n ds .

from the b ow l o f warm water I pour upon t hem a table

spoonful from a bottle o f
Rosewater 3 ounces ; gl y cerine 1 ounce ; carbolic acid 1 0
, , ,

drops .

I was h my h an d s thoroughly again i n this and d ry them

upon a so ft towel a piece o f cheesecl o th or an O ld silk hand
,

kerchie f and am careful to wipe them tho r oughly dry

, .

Chapped hands are t he penalty o f careless drying T o .

further whiten the hands carbolic acid may be adde d to

this mixt u re 1 0 d rop s t o 4 ounces o f th e rosewater an d

glycerine .

The woman w h o d oes her own ho u sework o ften fi n d s the

skin abo ut the j oints o f her fi ngers getting loose and flabb y
and the skin at the sides o f the nails becoming calloused .

For these troubles I a d vise wearing large loos e gloves ,

while sweepi n g an d d usting Don t put your hands in hot .

’

water mo r e than is necessary Massage the hands as I .

have directe d an d soak them every day in a bowl o f milk o r

olive oil Use o n e o f t he bleaches I have recommended
.
,

and wear big l o ose rubbe r gloves t h ree o r four sizes larger
, ,

than your kid gloves at night ,

.

At luncheon o ne day i n London I s aw a girl trying t o

h ide her hands S om e o ne h ad remarke d that h ands may
.
1 38 MY S ECRET S O F B EAUTY

look ol d when their owner is not T he disc u ssion o f the .

s ubj ect threw the girl into acute embarrassment and her ,

hands sought t o screen themselves be n eath the damask o f

her dinner napkin Interested I studied those hands when
.
,

I could do so without embarrassme n t to the girl They .

were large and r ed b u t what made the unhappy guest try

,

to hide them w a s that they were what every beauty sp e

”
c i ali s t knows as
“
o ld hands .

Had I j udge d the age o f their possessor by th ose hands

I Should have sai d She was fifty They were deeply .

wrinkle d The skin ha d formed in de ep creases about the

.

knuckles The texture was coarse There was the r e

. .

sig n ed look o f accepte d age in their contou r Yet when .

my eyes t r aveled up from t hose hands to the figure o f the

girl I s aw tha f it was Slender and u n developed and as my ,

scrutiny ex tended to the face I s aw that it was fresh and

sweet as an E nglish p r imrose that grows in o n e o f the de
li c i ou s ly romantic E n glish lanes S he w as young as the .

unblown rosebud as the fledgling j ust peeping over the

,

nest as the silver crescent moon is yo ung B ut she had

,
.

o ld ha n ds Why ".

A kee n ly obse r vant man sai d t o me I was traveling

to Cherbourg I was in the same compa r tment as two
.

wome n My eyes tired o f the landscape a n d came back to

.
,

my fellow t r avelers One o f the women had drawn o ff her

.

glov es Her hands lay in he r lap I dly I speculated about

. .

their owne r I guessed by those hands that s he was forty

. .

Her face showed she was not more than eighteen N ext I .

glanced at her compa n ion s ha n ds They too were u n ’

.
, ,

gloved and lyi n g r elaxed in her lap were aged hands

, ,
.

S he must be e ighty I thought and a glimpse o f her face

, ,
,

c onf o u n ded me It was that o f a woma n in middle life

. .

S he w as o f that opulent beauty whose midsummer is pro

longed indefinitely S he was probably forty fi v e And the
.
-
.

girl beside her was her da ughter S he was an exact replica .

14 0 MY S ECRET S OF BEAUTY

a fter the water and soap bath It neutralizes the d ry ing

.

e ff ect o f the soap .

Glycerine agrees with some han d s If it d oe s not .

redden and make them se n sitive as you can learn by two ,

o r three applications it will be a good article o f hand foo d

,
.

Equal parts o f glycerine a n d rosewater will make a milder

application for glycerine alo n e is often an irritant I f
, .

lemon j uice is u sed instead o f the rosewater it whitens the ,

hands .

Well fed han d s I hav e seen h av e their d aily meal o f

cocoanut o i l S everal col d creams are good hand foods
. .

S o is buttermilk .

Many of my frien d s complain that winter always leaves

them with disgrace ful looki n g ha n ds ”
I do not suppose .

that this statement is really true Americans and espe .

,

c i ally Ame r ican girls are p r one to extravagance in conver

,

sation . What they mean by this bill o f complaint is that ,

the cold weather makes their hands l ook rough and red .

Do n t mourn those reddened c o arse looking hands

’
,
-
.

You will o n ly etch lines in your face an d cause the muscle s

to s ag as muscles do early in life i f they have not been
uphel d by a cheerful disposition and the facial exercise that
laughter bri n gs B esi d e s all fo r c e is wa s ted that i s n ot
.

used in upbuildi n g new conditio n s o r in remedying o ld o n es .

What i s to be done with those red hands " First do not ,

’
exp ose them to sudden change s o f temperatur e Don t .

plunge them into hot water a n d draw them Out o f the hot
water a n d dry them in a cold ro om S leep in a cold room .

by all means but don t dress in o n e I f there a r e no m eans

,
’
.

to make your bedroom warm for the morning toilet dress

i n some part o f the house that is warmed if necessary by ,

the kitche n stove Cold followed by heat o r the O pposite

.

extreme is su r e to redden the hands an d t o coarsen the

textu r e o f their ski n .

S econd do not wear tight gloves I dislike a tightly

,
.
 THE C AR E O F NAIL S A ND F I N GER S 14 1

gloved han d It has always seemed to m e vulgar I am

. .

glad to s ee that Fashion is recognizing this and giving her

endorsement to the practice o f wearing gl o ves a hal f o r
whole size too large So that the glov e will wrinkle a trifle
,

over the hand and look as though the wearer were com
fo r tab le Wea r gloves that are otherwise com fortable that
.
,

is that do not irritate the skin F o r summer cotton o r ve ry

,
.

thin suede silk or chamois are best S uede are best in win
,
.

ter because they are so fter than most othe r materials use d
,

by the glover in p r oviding his stock Woolen gloves may .

be worn over the gloves but I do not advise wearing them ,

next to the skin fo r they chafe the skin making it rough

, , .

Thir d do not wash the m in water too o ften while t hey

,

are in the coarse re d dened state Remove the dust o r

,
.

grime when possible by rubbing o i l or cold cream over the

hands and afterwards carefully wiping them When you .

wash them in water let it be in merely war m wate r Into .

this you may drop a teaspoonful o f powdered borax to a

q u art o f water o r in the same amount o f water a dessert
,

spoonful o f li q uid ammonia o r a hal f d ozen d rops o f ti n c

ture o f be n z oin All thes e will whiten t he skin I f you
. .

drop in the water a handful o f bran o r oatmeal it will

soften and whiten the han d s D ry the hands gently . .

Don t treat them as though yo u were putting them through

’

a clothes wringer with the Monday was h .

Fourth until the hands reach t he re fi ne d condition you

,

desire never retire without dressing them for the night

, .

Rub over them thickly lanolin o r n a falan o r a mixture o f , ,

equal p arts o f vaseli n e and lanolin I f you have made the .

hands to o greasy by this ap p lication wipe o ff the supe r fluous

c r eam with a so ft handkerchief o r piece o f cheesecloth .

Or i f you p refer yo u can use the Englis h p aste o r the ,

French formulas fo r which follow

,

P ure soap shaved M quart ; olive o il 1 2 quart ; mutton

, , ,

suet M qua r t ; brandy M quart Warm the soap suet a n d

, , .
,
142 MY S ECRET S OF BEAUT Y

oil until they blend While they are still tepi d po u r in the
.

bran d y A d d a few d rops o f any favorit e per f ume if d e

.

s ire d .

Ea u d e co l ogne 100 gram s ; o il o f almon d s 100 grams ;

, ,

pow d ere d soap 3 0 grams Warm to blending point ; then

,
.

shake well an d pou r into a j ar and keep in a cool place

, .

S prea d o n e o f these pastes over the hands and draw over

the hands large loose rubber o r la rge o ld kid gloves before ,

retiring .

I f the hands have reached such stage o f roughness that

there are small cracks o r fissures in the skin cover these
cracks o r fissu r es with zinc oxide plasters I f the fissures .

are ve ry d eep apply a salicylic soap plaster .

”
I f your hands take a notion t o be red s ay at an even ,

ing party or at a tea for instance when you are expected

, ,

to pour shake the m violently so that if the fi ngers were

”
, ,

less lo o sely attached they woul d fly o ff .

Also work the hands back and forth f r om th e wrists for

a few minutes This is better than the old French custom
.

o f holding the hands up to let the blood run o ut for the ,

blood will run back into them again as soon as the hands
are held as usual On the other hand the shaking of the
.

hands and limbering o f the wrists will restore the circula

tion the interruption o f which has caused the hands t o
,

r edden B e sure that your rings are not too tight for i f
.
,

they are they will impede the ci r culatio n and ca u se the red
ness s o many o f y ou are try ing to a v oid .
 C HA P T ER XI

BE A U TY B AT H S

ET me d irect the baths o f the body an d th e complexion

will take care o f itsel f .

How shall I impress upon y o u my bea u tiful rea d er w ho

.
, ,

would remain beautiful my plain reader if ever a woman

was plain —who wants to be beautiful how necessary is
,

the frequent bath " B y this I mean the daily bath L et .

me tell you that which you may have fo rgotten that when ,
“ ”
w e speak o f the skin as the third lung we minimize its
importance The skin discharges twice as much waste
.

matter from the body as do the lungs Keep that ever in .

mind and help the skin in its task .

Again t here is the story which you als o may have heard
,

and forgotten that the man whose skin has been gilded in
,

a n e ffort to make o f him a man o f go ld died in a few ,

hours because his pores hav ing bee n fi lled coul d not dis
, ,

charge their function .

The daily bath i n some instances the bath twice a day

, , ,

is not as persons advanced in s ome di r ections and pitiably

behi n d in others tell us a luxury It is a necessity It
, . .

does not as some ignorantly assume destroy the oils o f the

, ,

skin It causes them to circulate mor e f reely through the

.

medi u m o f the skin .

P ermit me to picture to you the con d ition which a bath

changes Have you ever seen a shower o f ashes
.
" H ow ,

from a d isturbed furnace a g r ay flur ry rises then falls

, ,

thickly as snow upon the n earest smooth surface " That is

what h appens to the skin The sho wer o f white ashes
.
,

I 43
14 4 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUT Y

refuse from the fires in t he human body pushes its wa y ,

through the pores to the surface o f the body o r the skin ,

.

There in the m o uths o f the po r es they remain obst r ucti n g

, , ,

them as a wagonload o f soil would obstruct the mouth o f a

sewer if poured into it and allowed to remain .

The shower o f human ashes must be removed j ust as the ,

t r aces of a s n ow fall are remove d fr om city streets quickly ,

a n d thoroughly else tra ffic is impeded The sca r f skin

, .

must go and the best and most direct way to send it is by

,

the route o f the bath .

I have desc r ibed in a previous chapter my o w n method

o f bathi n g I fi n d the tepid bath i n the mo rn i n g followed
.
,

by a Slightly cooler shower or splash with spo n ge o r ha n ds, ,

the best for my needs Also for dryi n g the Ski n I pre fe r
.

a soft towel for it is best fo r my skin But I d o not

, .

recommend this as a unive r sal method .

My skin happe n s to be exceedi ngly thin and sensitive ,

annoyi n gly s o I f it were o n e of the ha r dier more dur

.
,

able s o r t with a te n de n cy to a coarse n i n g a n d roughe n i n g

, ,

I should t r y this much m or e drastic method o f removi n g

scarf S ki n I f I we r e st r o n g e nough a n d my physicia n s
.

vouche d fo r the fact that I we r e I would try the daily cold ,

plu n ge or shower This I would take in the mor n i n g r e

.

maini n g in the icy tub o r u n der the chilli n g shower n ot more

than o n e mi n ute The n I should have a brisk r ubdown n ot
.
,

with the so ft line n towel o r cheesecloth but with a big , ,

coarse Turkish towel F o r this pu r pose I like best the big

.

towels that swathe the body completely which one may ,

wrap rou n d hersel f a n d w r apped i n them s i t upo n a bath

, , ,

i n g stool a n d dry herself with immu n ity from chill U n .

less I we r e to dress at o n ce I should b r iskly rub the body ,

with alcohol to r ende r less the possibility o f t aki n g cold .

But i f my roo m were su n ny I would p r efer to r u n about the

room half a dozen times o r a rehea r sal o f da n ci n g steps
,

fo r five mi n utes o r j umping the rope O n e o f the greates t

,
.
'
14 6 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUTY

To an or d inary bathtub hal f fille d with water a dd one

po u nd o f pure starch Let it d issolve in water at 90 to 9 5
.

deg r ees Fahrenheit T o this many French women ch oose

.

to add o n e wineglass of t o ilet amm o nia for its whiteni n g

e ffect .

The oatmeal bag is an o ld and admirable remedy for

rough o r stained ski n The best is made in this way " .

Oatmeal 1 pound ; pulverized o r ris root M pound S tir

, ,
. .

well together a n d s ew into a large square bag Toss the .

bag into the tub a n d let it remai n in the warm water fo r

fi fteen minutes It will give the water that delightful
.

milky aspect s o pleasant to the luxurious bather Bran .

may be ma n ipulated in the same w ay with equally good

results .

For whitening a n d soft ening the skin a bath powder may

be made at home f r om these i ngredients
B icarbonate o f soda 6 ounces ; cream o f tartar 5 ounces ;
, ,

starch 8 ounces ; o i l o f lemon 1 dram ; o i l o f bergamot 10

, , ,

drops If another sce n t is preferred to bergamot it ca n

.

be substituted ; for instance 5 drops o f o i l o f rose gera ,

nium .

F o r a person not strong enough to endure t h e col d bath ,

this tonic in tepid water is recomme n ded by many Eu r opea n

physicians
A romatic vi n egar 1 pint ; tincture o f benzoin 1 wine
, ,

glass .

A delicious bath us e d by our grandmoth ers and that is ,

a s e fficacious for their granddaughters is ma d e by boiling ,

fo r th r ee hours two pounds of bran S train the b r an .

through a sieve To the remai n ing liquo r add some scent

.

o f your choice let us say 1 0 drops o f bergamot 5 o f ros e

, ,

o f geranium o r 5 o f oil of lavender

, .

A belle o f limited mea n s utilizes all the left over bits o f -

her toilet soap These s he g r inds or chops with a knife

.

into a fine powder To two ounces o f this p o w d er she ad d s

.
 B E AUTY B AT HS 14 7

f our tablespoon fuls o f borax S he Sifts these into two .

quarts o f bran A pint o f this mixture p oured into an old

.

linen or cheesecloth bag and th e bag used as a washcloth

gives a pleasant touch o f l u xury to a bath besides greatl y ,

so fte n ing and whitening the skin .

Many women prefer to make their ow n t oilet o r aromatic

V inega r s to be use d in the bath F o r the m I reco mmend .

this formula "

Camphor M o unce ; o i l o f rosemary M d ram ; o il o f
, ,

cloves M d r am ; o i l o f bergamot 1 dram ; acetic acid 4

, ,
, ,

ounces ; alcohol 8 ounces , .

When for any reason the perspiration is odorous in spite

o f the bath this sprinkled upon the o ff ending portions o f
,

the body destroys the unpleasant condition

S ubnitrate o f bismuth 1 ounce ; pulve r ize d boric aci d M
, ,

ounce ; p ulverize d alum M ounce ; o i l of eucalyptus 1 0

, ,

drops ; o i l o f rose geranium 5 d r ops ; o i l o f lemon 5 d r ops

, ,
.

For those o f full habit I recommend a Russian bath once

a week as beneficial to the complexion I prefer those .

give n in the cabi n ets For mysel f being meager there

.
, ,

would be after six o f the m nothi n g le ft .

L et me suggest this means fo r the invalid or the perso n

o f lean purse o f taki n g the Russian bath at home
, There .

a re inexpensive cabinets folding o r statio n ary made fo r

, ,

this purpose o f wood o r tin Even a packing box would

, .

su ffi ce But a good Russian which means vapor as dis

.
, ,

t i ngu i s he d fro m the Turkish o r ho t air bath — and the , ,

Russian I think much to b e p re ferred because it does not ,

involve breathing hot ai r — may be taken at home .

—
The home made Russia n bath requires " Three o r more
blankets ; a cane seated chair ; a spirit lamp ; a c an contai n
-

ing on e qua rt o f water Place the can upon the lighted

.

spirit lamp the spirit lamp be n eath the chair and yoursel f
, , ,

env eloped in blankets upon the chair The water in the

, .

can can be replenishe d f r om tim e to time .

14 8 MY S ECRET S O F B EAUT Y
Drinking three or more glasses o f hot water d uring the
b ath aids in perspiratio n I f there are more blankets avail
.

able lie dow n swathed in from four to s i x d r y o n es a n d ,

the process o f perspi r ation will co n tinue for twenty mi n utes

longer .

In Tu r key baths are regarded not only as means o f clean

li n e s s but as age n ts o f beauty He r e is a to n ic Tu r kish
.

women pour i n to the t u b t o tone the Skin a n d th r ough that

the whole body "
Ammonia ( pure ) 1 00 grams ; cooking salt 5 00 g r ams
, ,
.

This i s o f special value when o n e is tire d a n d listless .

It is called the S timulant Bath

Oil o f tu r pentine 1 0 0 g r ams ; carbonate o f soda 5 0
, ,

grams ; o i l o f rosemary 1 0 grams ; o i l of eucalyptus 5

, ,

g rams .

This o i l bath is rubbed i n t o the ski n to r ender it soft a n d

smooth It is an admi r able remedy fo r a d ry ski n The
. .

harem women style it The B eauty Bath

Rosewater 1 00 g r ams ; glyce r i n e 6 0 g r ams ; starch 5 0
, , ,

grams ; oil o f lavender 1 5 grams ,

.

Famous beauties were always ca r eful about their baths ,

even in a pe r iod when baths we r e dis r egarded o r were de

sp i se d as the habits of the u n duly e ffemi n ate Marie A n .

toi n ette for he r full bath used a mixtu r e o f wild thyme

, ,

a n d marj ory with s e a salt In the wi n ter the baths we r e

,
.

taken cold i n the summer wa r m it bei n g the fancy o f the

, ,

court physic i a n D r F ag o n i that the temperature o f the

, .
,

b ath should co rr espo nd to the temperatu r e o f the outer air .

The wi n e bath is not a fiction o f the imagi n ati o n but ,

r ather a fact o f histo ry The beautiful Russia n Marie

.
,

Cz et w e r tyn o sk a favo r ite beauty o f the Court of Alexa n der

,

the Great insiste d upon the tonic o f a weekly bath in

,

S panish wi n e Poppaea bathed in asses milk a n d was r e

.
’

no w n e d for her complexion .

N ovel was the method o f Isabeau Q ueen o f Bavaria , ,

150 MY S ECRET S OF BEAUTY

being u nmixe d with the minerals which well water collects

o n its tour through the various strata o f earth and which ,

hardens it .

The starch bath is one o f the best to allay itching or cure

annoying skin e r uptions It is made like this " .

Into a tub o f s ay ten gallons o f water drop one half -

pound o f starch .

The gelati n e bat h serves a similar pu r pose It is sooth .

ing to an irritated skin The proportions are two hu n dred

.

a n d fi fty grams o f white Fre n ch gelatine to ten gallons o f

tepid water .

The col d bath is a stimulant for those w ho are st r ong

enough to react from it The test is whether after the cold
.

plunge the skin tur n s red If it turns blue the vitality is

.

not su fficie n t to bear such heroic treatment Cold baths .

Should n ot be take n without the advice o f a competent

W
physician .

The hot bath is soothing but i f taken too o ften is ener ,

v at i n g.O n ce a eek under ordinary circumstances is

, ,

o ften enough fo r a hot bath .

The tepid bath graduated to a cool bath by letting the

,

cold water run in as the warm water runs o ff is the best ,

daily bath .

For the person who perspires excessively a wineglass o f ,

ammonia to ten gallo n s o f water is a good corrective .

Fo r the seaside bath five pou n ds o f table salt dissolved

,

in a tub ful o f water at home is a ve r y good substitute .

This followed by a shower o r spray will lend the illusion

, ,

o f Ostend o r Atlantic City .

But besides these simple baths tha t any o n e may take , ,

there are some that ar e complex a n d that only those who ,

have for a time at least s ome spare hours to spend at their

, , ,

toilets may trouble to take This is what my p hysician .

ordered whe n I had come from a Russian tour wea r y fro m ,

travel and i n that state o f depression that follows extreme

 B EAUT Y B ATH S 15 I

weari ness . Used in tepid water every morning I foun d it

i nv i go i at i ng
‘

Bromide o f potassium 1 gram ; carbonate o f calcium 1 , ,

gram ; carbonat e o f Soda 3 00 g r ams ; sulphate o f soda 3 00 , ,

grams ; sulphate o f iro n 3 grams ; o i l o f lavender 1 gram ;

, ,

o i l o f thyme 1 gram ; o i l o f rosemary 1 gram

, , .

The same physician recommen d ed for the skin that was

t o o sensitive to endure soa p "
Tincture o f q u illagac 1 0 grams ; glyc e r1n e 2 0 grams ; o il
, ,

o f bergamot 3 drops ,
.

The ext remely nervous person whose skin is much irri ,

t ate d may take the starch bath I have d escribe d and add
,

to it a pint o f vinegar .

Disc r eet bathing besides its first o ffice o f cleanli n ess ai d s

, ,

and even cures an aemia biliousness obesity rheumatism , , , ,

neuralgia and even S t Vitus s dance

’
. .

The hot water treatment fo r pimples is more e fficacious

than most medicines given fo r that purpose The applica .

tion o f so ft cloths dippe d in hot water has e ff ecte d a c u re

in a few days .

A class o f skin diseases that produce postules o n the

ski n these postules eve n tually bursting and forming crusts
, ,

are alleviated and sometimes cured by a systematic cou r se

o f warm baths The falli n g o f the crusts like dandru ff
.
,

and the gradual heali n g ; may b e b rought about by two

warm baths daily Tetter is o ne o f these forms that has
.

been cured by warm water baths and care ful ten d er d rying ,

with soft towels .

An obj ect lesson in the v alue o f the war m bath in sooth

ing the nervous syste m is seen in the cas e o f children
screaming with the colic who cease their cries and grow ,

sleepy as soon as they are placed in a t u b o f warm water .

I f p ossible bathe not less than two hours be fore eating

,

nor less than three hou rs after eating .

N ever take a bath w hile ver y tire d There will b e no .

152 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUTY

r eaction — that is the blood will not leap to the sur face
,

as under favorable circumstan ces it makes its response to

the bath and the bath will merely reduce further the low
,

ered vitality .

A little exercise j ust before bathing an d a litt le exercise

after aids the go o d e ffects o f the bath The exercise b e
, .

fore opens the pores for the reception o f the water The .

exe r cise afterward permits the entra n ce o f s u n an d air into

the pores too little accustome d to either .

Light exercise a fter the drying o f the skin with a so ft

towel and b efore e n vel o pi n g it with clothes is a sple n did
to n ic and a wonderful b e au ti fi e r I k n ow a half dozen .

beautiful P arisiennes who have had their bathrooms built

in that part o f the house most exposed to the sunshine and ,

at the top o f the house a n d ope n i n g from these have built

, , ,

small su n parlors square rooms with roo fs and sides e n

,

t i r ely o f glass Here they exercise for from five to ten

.

mi n utes j umpi n g the rope or flexi n g the arms a n d legs a n d

,

h ead . One vigo r ous beauty has a bla n ket spread upon the
fl o o r o f her s u n pa r lor a n d upon this turns somersaults to
, ,

make her body pliant and to assure hersel f that her c i r cu

lation is free S ome o f these exercises are illustrated by
.

the Silhouettes on this page

Duri n g the su nbaths they are u n clad o r i f clothed are ,

merely wrapped in a light loose dressing gown After the ,

.

bath and the exe r cise some Pa r isiennes repose for an hour
u p on a couch in the s u n pa r lo r their hair ha n gi n g loose ,

and their faces protected only by a delicate shade like a fire ,

screen from the t oo strong rays o f the s u n

,
.

Bathe briskly in the water Never stay in it more than .

twe n ty mi n utes Indeed a good scrub can b e taken i n

.
,

three minutes A b r ush is better than a sponge It pries

. .

open the pores D o not u s e coars e towels They abrade

. .

the skin U s e soft towels o r bath gloves D ry thoroughly

. .

an d uickl Man bathe t he fac e an d ne ck fi rst to pr e

q y .
y
 C H A P TER XII

G O OD H EA LT H A S A F O U N DA T I O N FO R BE AU TY

H OW me a woman who has indigestion an d I will Sho w

you a pe r son with muddy complexio n dull o r fever ,

ishly bright eyes a coated tongue and a la n guid man n er

,
.

None o f these makes for beauty All are signs o f ill.

health B esides t hese outward an d visible signs o f ill

.

health it is a heav y weight u pon the spirits The girl

, .

thinks she is unhappy and manufactures causes for misery

, ,

o r exaggerates the t r i fl es that are n o t t o her liking an d ,

makes them causes for u n happiness .

Besides thes e i n digestio n causes yet graver troubles I

,
.

recall several persons I k n ew who have since passed from

the earthly plane whose decline in health bega n with vari
,

o u s symptoms o f i n digestio n It was never clear to me

.

whether the i n digestion w as the cause or the e ffect o f thes e

maladies But I t rust I have said enough to p rove that
.

indigestion is a most undesirable state Vanity alone should .

forbid it .

How to p revent in d igestion " I shall have a great deal

to say farther o n about food wrong in kind or quality as
a cause o f indigestio n But first let me tell you o f an ex
.

c ellen t exercise t o discou r age indigestion .

Knead the abdome n o n retiri n g and several times a day

when there is opportunity Double you r hands as though
.

fo r kneading bread Place the cle n ched ha n ds beneath the

.

ribs Pres s firmly and r egularly upon the i n testines mov

.
,

i n g t he fists forwa r d until they meet H aving done this .

five to ten times allow the left han d to rest at y our si d e

,

15 4
 TH E FO U N DATIO N F O R B EAUTY 155

and with the right han d press gently b u t s teadily d ownwar d

at the left o f the ab dom e n until your h an d is opposite the
thigh Repeat this operation sev e ral time s each time you
.

tak e the exercise This is still more e ffective if taken while

.

y o u are lying in your bathtub The relaxatio n o f the .

muscles is aided by the fact that they are under water .

The hyd r opath i c school believes this one o f the greatest ai d s

t o restoring proper digestion .

Much walki n g is an ai d t o digestion S o is this exercise .

,

which can be taken in bed

Lying upon your back draw the knees slowly u p b e
,

neath the chin then let the legs fall to their forme r positio n
, .

This is the most valuable o f early morning exercises for

those who have a torpi d liver o r some other form o f indi
gestion .

Coars e cereals are an enemy to in d igestion S eldom .

does o n e see a case o f indigestion in S cotla n d and i f we ,

d o it is when w e meet a queer S cot w ho dislikes his na

,

t i o n al dish oatmeal
, Oatmeal whole wheat rice all being
.
, , ,

large fib e r e d foods stir the stomach an d intestines to a c

,

t i v it y which is good fo r d igestion

, .

Again every girl shoul d know some o f the principles o f

,

t h e values o f foods Apply to your daily food these facts

. .

You r food shoul d consist o f thes e p r o portions

M ixture o f starches an d sugars about 1 6 parts Pro ,
.

t e i d s 4 parts
, Fats 2 parts
.
, .

In other words on e— half o f our daily amount o f foo d

,

may be made up o f potatoes rice bread e tc One eighth , , , .

-

should consist of the proteids as milk o r eggs o r cheese , , ,

.

One sixteenth should be fat as butte r o r the fat to be

-
,

f o un d in meat o r o i l in dressing of salads Keep this table .

in mind and you will fi n d a new interest in choosi n g your

food and in a short t i me y ou will welcome a ma r ked i m
,

p rovement in your health .

Do not decline s weets unless yo u are overw eight but eat ,

1 56 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUTY

them at the right time which is as desser t for luncheon o r

,

dinner Never eat cake o r ca n dy between meals

. .

Turn resolutely away from all fried foods Y o u have .

heard that fried foods are i n j urious but you do not know ,

wh y It is my pleasure to tell you They are indigestible

. .

because they form in the stomach a substance as thick a n d

u n wieldy as leather and as di fficult o f digestion
, Neither .

meats n o r eggs no r milk should eve r reach the boiling point .

For this reaso n never eat boiled bee f no r a boiled egg nor , ,

milk that has bee n boiled The beef cut up in a stew that
.

has simme r ed belo w the boiling p o int an egg that has been ,

dropped into water j ust below the b o ili n g point and allowed
to heat there for eight minutes i n stead o f boili n g four and ,

milk that ha s been heated but never pe rmitted to Show o n e

o f the bubbles that attend the boiling state are substitutes ,

for the old fo r ms and admirable ones

, .

Keep this also i n mind i n selecting your food " For the
bones formation w e need lime and the cer eals as oats and
’
, ,

wheat and rice co n tain eleme n ts that make it S ugar is

,
.

c o nverted i n to e n ergy as the Russia n da n cers well k n ow

, ,

for they eat ino r di n ate qua n tities o f ca n dy a n d sweet paste ,

yet because they exercise it O ff remain thin The fats a s

, ,
.
,

butter and meat fat cause warmth i n the body s o shoul d

, ,

be used more f r eely in wi n ter than in summer B read is .

a good food i f made o f coarse grain Co n t r a ry to the gen .

eral opi n ion macaro n i and spaghetti are good foods Ex

,
.

amine them i n their raw state a n d you will see that they are
yell o wish That shows the prese n ce o f glute n which is
.
,

valuable as an aid to digestion in bread fo rm ,

.

Are yo u anaemic " Then besides mil d exercise i n the

o pen air always stoppi n g before you are tired a n d mas
, ,

sagi n g the body and face with feedi n g oils as la n olin a n d

olive o il f eed yoursel f gene r ously with thicke n ed broths
,

and thick soups Ham and bacon and mutto n chicken and
.
,

game are reb u ild e r s o f the weakened system an d b u t ,

15 2
3 MY S ECRE T S OF B EAUTY

f r om the b ody A lcohol sweets and strawberries a d d to

.
,

them .

Eat v ery slowly o f the following " Thin vegetable so u p s ,

fresh fi s h and raw oysters whi t emeats as the breast o f , ,

’
chicken sweetbreads and p igs feet Take the white s o f
, .

eggs pre ferably raw

, .

Toasted graha m or w hole wh eat bread is the best for

your condition Zw ei b ac k and graham gems are also help
.

ful F o r yo u celery lettuce cucumber Cabbages y o ung

.
, , , ,

peas a n d stri n g bea ns spinach those vegetables c o ntaining , ,

much water are excellent Juicy fruits as oranges lemons

, .
, ,

apricots cranberries pears peaches better stewe d o r baked

, , , ,

than r aw are medicinal for yo u

, .

But eat no bee f no fried dishes no ragouts no r hashes

, , ,

n either turkey nor duck nor goose no omelettes a n d no salt ,

fish and no dessert s except fruits I f you drink tea o r .

co ff ee let it b e weak Buttermilk is better for yo u and .

,

you more than any other class o f person should drink wate r ,

in large q ua n tities .

I f you are li v er l sh or are troubled by bilious attacks eat

less heavily than you have bee n doin g Choose white meats .

a n d fish a n d eat n o fat part o f the meat O f v egetables

,
.

eat much watercress and lettuce an d Spinach D r ink .

skimme d milk a n d that very sl o wly and eat o n ly raw o r ,

poached eggs Co r nbrea d o r bread made from whole wheat

.

flour and hot water in which you have s queezed the j uice
o f a lemon or o r ange w ill help you back to a state of health .

Eat n either cheese nor potatoes oatmeal n o r dried v ege ,

tables .

—
I f you are neurasthenic never attempt the no breakfast
plan It is better for you i f yo u can have your b reakfast
.

in bed The diet should be light Meats fi sh eggs gree n

. .
, , ,

vegetables a nd fruits are a help ful diet Milk ca n be tak en .

if the stomach does not rej ect it Tea co ffee tobacco and .
, ,

alcoholic drinks are f orbidden to you .

 T HE FOUND ATIO N F O R BE AUTY 159

T rain yourself to note your symptoms and treat them by

diet When your face has a mottled appearance you may
.

be sure that you are eating too much food of all sorts o r ,

th at yo u are eating to o much that is greas y o r rich or sweet .

A chic P arisian frien d o f mine when she notices such

symptoms limits hersel f to o ne moderate meal a day — her
dinner — an d the earlier part o f the day contents herself
with fruits and salads d r i n ki n g water moderately at these
,

meals and copi o usly between them .

The r e are many times when w e feel o u r bodies and

are growing to o heavy o r t oo lazy that it is well to subsist
for a few days o n a liquid diet This nourishing dri n k .

stre ngthens the body eve n while the work o f removing the
remaining ashes from the bo d y goes o n "
Whole barley I tablespoonful ; a slice o f lemon ; boiling
,

water 2 cup fuls P lace the barley an d slice of lemon i n an

, .

earthen dish O v er them p our the boiling wate r Cover

. .

the dish and let the mixture stand for ten mi n utes Then .

strain into another earthen dish The d r ink may b e fl a

.

v o re d with a small q uantity o f sugar i f pre ferred The .

qua n tity given is ampl e for on e nourishing meal fo r one

person .

This is a dr ink o ften taken by athletes to refresh them

during their trai n i n g period in England but is useful to ,
’
wome n taking a semi fast for beauty s sake-

B ran 2 tablespoonfuls ; seeded raisins I tablespoon ful ;

, ,

l emon 1 thick Slice Chop the raisi n s fine and place them
, .

with the b r a n and lemo n i n an ea r then bowl Over these .

pour a hal f pi n t o f boili n g water L et stan d t o cool a n d

.

blend for ten minutes S trai n a nd dri n k while wa r m

. .

Raisins are o f special value in cleansing an d to n ing the

kidneys .

The water in which peeled apples hav e been stewed and

to which a few curra n ts have been added is a strengthe n ing ,

cooli n g and cleansing drink It is made more appetizing

.
1 60 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
by the additio n o f a few cloves o r a broken stick of ci n n a
mon .

This is a n o ther tonic a n d re f r eshi n g dri nk during the

tim e w he n you a r e eati n g little o r nothing ,

S queeze i n to a la r ge co ff ee cup the j uice o f o n e o range .

Fill the Space re mai n i n g in th e cup w ith boili ng water .

Add a teasp oo nful o f liquid ho n ey a n d the sa me amount o f

lemon j uice .

This t oo app eases hun ger

, ,

Milk 1 pi n t ; hot water 1 pint S lowly s i p in lieu of a

, , .

meal The use o f w ate r in a w ay p r events the cloggi n g

.

o f th e syste m that sometimes follows an exclusively milk

diet .

A d ri nk much in use i n Engla n d that is hal f food hal f , ,

medicin al is this ,

T w o tablespo o n fuls o f whol e wheat ; a little ca raway or

cele r y seed to flavor I n to a pi n t bo wl of b oili n g water stir
.

the whole w heat a fter it has been gr ound Add the ca ra .

w ay o r cele r y seed S weete n if you wish with a hal f

.
, ,

teaspoo n ful o f powdered licorice .

Nut dri n ks a r e am o n g the s tren gt he n in g beverages sub

stitute d for food du r i n g a beauty fast F o r example this " .
,

G r ou n d p ea n uts 1 tablespoonful ; boiling wate r 1 cup

, ,

ful Flavor with equal quantiti es o f ho n ey o r lemon j uice

.

as desi r ed .

Pe r haps you prefer m ea t j uices in th e thi nning o r r e

buildi n g time In that case .

Pour over fi n ely chopped bee f o r chicken tw ice its

bu lk i n bo ili n g w ater i f you wish th e tea to b e strong three ,

times if w eak .

S ome thi ngs the r e are that no one who wishes to be b ea u

tiful should eve r take i n to the stomach Those thi ngs .

should be co n traba n d as po iso n s a n d leads They a r e

,
.

S weets past ri es a n yt hi n g very sweet o r very s our any

, , ,

thi ng ve ry cold o r very hot pork puddings o ther than tho s e

, ,
1 62 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
less work to do For that reason I should advise t he beauty
.

with spots upon her countenance to try for a few hours o r , ,

if possible a few days the water cure Let her so far as

, , .
,

food is concerned fast if her physician permit and live

, , ,

as long a s seems j udicious on air an d wate r The fu r nace .

o f an engi n e m u st be cleansed occasionally o f its clinkers .

S o the intestinal tract must be cleansed o f its obstructions .

I have said before in these pages that everyone should

drink three q uarts o f water a day I repeat it I f the . .

sto mach be very delicate the water may be taken hot but , ,

a s I have also said be fore I have found that while hot , ,

water taken copiously into the stomach r elieves a condition

t emporarily i f the stom ac h; continues habitually to be
,

flooded with it it checks the flow o f the gastric j uices The

, .

gastric j uices refuse to work pettishly leaving their func ,

tions to the intruder Cold o cool water

r — .never let me ,

repeat i ce water
,
should be taken s o that when it reaches
the stomach it is of nearly the same tempe r ature It shoul d .

be sipped and slowly swallowe d ; nev er no matter how ,

thirsty o n e may be gulped , .

A s well int r o duce a lump o f ice suddenly into the

stomach as a tumblerful o f cold wate r I f you have ever .

by accident swallowed a lump o f i c e you know how painful

’
and violent is the stomach s protest Never drink more .

than two glasses o f water at a time A pint as I have .

,

p ointed o u t is all
,
that the stomach shoul d b e asked to r e

tain at o n e time I f the beauty the charm o f whose face

.
,

has been ecli p sed by blotches desires she can increase the , ,

amount o f wate r by a quart or mo re but this only when ,

she is taki n g no food I f she finds it more palatable th r ee

.
,

o r four drops o f lemon j uice squeezed int o a glas s will help

the cleansing process While she is taki n g the wate r cure

.

sh e should take as much exercise out o f d oors as her strength

will p ermit S he must not continue the exercise a fter she

.

becomes tired .
 THE FOUNDATIO N FOR BEAUTY 163

This water cu r e can be assisted b y flushing the colon with

warm water a subj ect with which I ma y deal more fully
,

later S u fficie n t a t this time that the internal bath given

.
,

as o fte n as her physician directs is o f great a i d to her who ,

would have a clear complexion .

The water and air cu re has been contin u e d un d er medical ,

direction for o n e day th r ee even fi ve o r s i x d ays with

, , , ,

beneficial results The lengt h will depend upon the strength

.

o f the person taki n g the cure When s he resumes food .

s he would do well to begin with warm milk .

B eginning with one quart o f milk a d ay the quantity can ,

be increased to t w o a n d even three It should be remem .

bered that milk is food rather than a beve r age and should
, ,

be consumed as such Not less than five minutes shoul d be

.

given to drinking a glass o f milk .

When foo d has been r esumed bear in mind that i f the

spots upon your face are caused by ac n e ( blackheads ) tea
and co ff ee should be avoided S 0 should pastry C heese .
, ,

sauces and highly seasoned foods On the other hand the

-
.

beauty w ho would remove the small black blemishes may ,

eat freely o f w ell cooked gree n vegetables a n d stewed fruits

-
.

While followi n g this cooli n g cleansi n g r égime I would

, ,

suggest that pimples roughnesses and spots will the mo r e

,

quickly disappear if fo r three o r more mor n i n gs the blood

be cooled by a dose o f o n e teaspoonful o f Epsom salts i n
a glass o f warm water .

For the be auties w ho are t o o thin a diet that will em

rich the blood is recommended For this condition fat .

meats gravies lima beans potatoes rice sweets

, , ,
all those , ,

things above which I have writt e n the flami n g sign Don t ’

for stout beauties should be eaten

-
.

When the cheeks a n d lips are pale the eyes dim the , ,

gait laggi n g and the body abnormally thin these conditions ,

all indicate that there is a lack of i r on in the system I use .

iron hypo dermic inj ections myself pre ferring them because ,
1 64 M Y S E C RET S OF B EAUT Y

they save the stomach the disturbance that follows i nt ro du c

i n g medicines But if there i s an obj ection to this iron
.

may be taken in food fo r m by eati ng the yolks o f eggs ,

sp inach beets and string bea n s

, .

The same dietary will help the woman whose hair is

falli n g o r is prematu r ely gray The results though Slow
.
, ,

are b e n efi c en t .

I believe i n fasting in moderation as an aid to the good

health upon which beauty depends AS fully as I indorse .

the beauty device o f stayi n g in bed now a n d then for a day

o r longer i f circumsta n c es permit o n e day of every te n
, , ,

I am c o nvinced that an occasio n al fast is conducive to well

being .

Fasti n g confers benefits in general and i n specific cases .

When persons are in that co n dition for which you have a

nai ve word o f description logy which mean s heav y a n d
”
,
“
,

listless fasti n g serves a n e xcellent purpose Usually the

, .

”
“
logy person has been overfed Let her go back to .

natu r e for a lesson on ho w to cure hersel f o f this diso r der .

When a n a n imal has eaten too much it usually crawls a way

to some da r k a n d quiet p lace and fasts That is what the .

woman w ho has overtaxed her digestion should do At

‘

such times the a n imal drinks plentifully o f wa ter S o .

sh o uld the human bei n g .

When the digestion goes o n st r ike humor it Grant the .

overworked stomach a n d i n testi n es a holiday Let them .

suspend work fo r a time but o n ly for a short time Better

,
.
,

in my opi n ion a forty eight hour fast take n four times

,
-

a mo n th than a fast take n fo r eight co n secutive days .

In ge n eral the body is bette r o ff for a n occasio n al relief

,

to the digestive organs But the r e are spe cific i n stances

.

o f the fast being o f g r eat be n efit .

For insta n ce I k n o w a woma n whose beautiful fi gu r e

,

was seriously marred by a n enlarged abdomen When she .

came to me fo r advice I asked her to stand and to walk .

1 66 MY S E C RET S OF B E AUTY

milk is food and so consider that I eat rather than d r ink , ,

it Five minutes at least for a glass I always permit my

.

sel f S o metimes I take ten

. .

The stomach having been gently p repare d for the cha ng e ,

it is ready by the second day for the water and lemo n .

The lemon j uice not only makes the water more palatable ,

but it stimulates the liver s o clearing the complexion

, .

When ready to b r eak the fast I have fou n d it well to

'

accustom the stomach to the change back to food by sippi n g

o r a n ge j uice that has bee n pressed i n to a cup or glass then ,

to begin eating again by consumi n g a small sweet ora nge , .

I returned to regular diet by the easy way o f soups and

gruels My lon gest fast was for four days a n d I consider
.
,

that o n e o r two days too long .

In fact the safest method of fasting I co n sider the semi

,

fast with milk gruels and soups that I have desc r ibed
, ,
.

Thus o f the ma nn er Of fasts No w as t o their value . .

Catarrh I have known to be greatly relieved i f not wholly ,

cured by recurrent fasts Rheumatism in its ea r ly stages

, .

has yielded to repeated short fasts and care to avoid sweets

a n d beef in the i n tervals bet w een these fasts .

Even n ervous n ess that fo rm o f it which is aggravated

,

by rich a n d heavy foods I have known to disappear du r ing

,

o n e of these silent and da r k roo m fasts the silence an d ,

rest bei n g pro bably the chief agents

, , .

A fairly good rule t o follow is that whenever the tongue

is coated the amount o f f o od may b e reduced or we would ,

do well to have no food fo r a sho r t time The coated .

to ngue indicates that there is much dead refuse matte r , ,

like the chok i n g ashes i n a furnace obstructing the body ,

.

If you can fast u n til the to n gue is o n ce more clean and

r ed you will be the gainer .

Als o when yo u feel your body that is when you a r e u n , ,

pleasantly conscious o f i ts weight and its handicap a fast ,

will u sually reliev e you But a warning Do not under

. .
 T HE FOUNDATION F OR B EAUT Y 167

take a fast while you are doing your heaviest wo r k Fast .

when the demands upon you a r e lightest and fast if p o s , ,

sible alone so that n o o n e will be a ffl icte d b y the irritable

,

temper that is liable to follow .

No o ne looks he r best when she has not ha d enough sleep .

L ittle li n es come about the eyes deep creases form in the ,

flesh about the mouth the eyes lose their light the facial , ,

muscles their firm n ess the complexio n its freshness a n d , , ,

what is most important the mi n d loses its alertness when , ,

we have not slept well Ir r itability and supersensitiveness .

Show in face and manner .

Lack o f soun d sleep is d ue to two causes a brain under ,

nourishe d o r over stimulated S leeplessness o r fi t fu l rest

-
.
, ,

less sleep follows nervous dera n geme n t There may be

,
.

indigestion cause o r result o f nervousness There may b e

, .

wo r ry There may be mental fag o r nervous exhaustion

. .

But whatever fo rm it takes the root of the matter i s nearly

always in the nerves This granted w e must look to r e .
,

lievi n g the brain the main station along the li n e o r we

, ,

must supply it what it needs .

B anish worry Take plenty o f exercise B reathe much

. .

fresh air These a r e three excellent recipes for sleep

. .

I f you fi nd that you have been over worki n g lighten your -

,

work a little Try to spend a day o r two in the country

.
,

i f possible B ut this to a busy person is sometimes o u t

.
, ,

o f the q uestion I f that is the case with you try to retire

.

an hou r earlier S ome d r ead retiri n g earlier because they

.

s ay they know they will not sleep Try it at any rate Ly . .

ing in a dark roo m will bri n g a sens e o f rest that should

soothe the nerv es and tend towar d sleep .

Make sur e that the room is at the right temperature fo r

your com fort I f it is too war m you will su r ely n ot sleep
. .

I f it is cold to the poi n t o f discom fort you will lie awake ,

.

S ixty deg r ees Fah r or less is a good tempe r atu r e for a

.
, ,

sleeping room B e sure that the air o f your bedroom is

.
1 68 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUTY

f r esh I f it se ems stale o r stu ffy O pen the win d ows wide
.

an d eithe r mov e actively about the roo m o r g o in to any

other o ne while this freshening is taking place It would .

be much better i f the ai r i n g had co n tinued all day and the

air were as near the freshness o f t he ou t o f doo rs as you - -

could make it .

I f your head aches from the st r ain o f the day a ba n dage ,

o f cracked ice should drive the excess o f blood f r om the

head a n d pe r mit sleep I f o n the other ha n d you a r e

.
, ,

a n aemic a n d your feet are col d at night thrust them into

,

a tub o f hot mustard water Place the elbow i n the water .

first to test its temperature I f it i s too hot for the elbow

.

it will ce r tai nly be too hot for the feet .

I f you are annoyed while lyi n g awake by a gnawi n g

, ,

o f t he stomach p r ovi n g that it is quite o r nea r ly empty

, ,

forestall this by sippi n g a cup o f gruel before goi n g to bed .

This will warm the stomach a n d quiet the nerve disturba n ce ,

s oothi ng the body for its rest .

A case o f p r otracted i n som n ia I knew to be cured in this

simple and it woul d seem did I not know the results trivial
, , ,

ma nn er Lie flat upon the bed with a low pillow — o r bet

ter n o pillo w at all — and loosen you r grip upon you r

.
,

muscles Uncurl them so to speak Relax as completely

.
, .

as does you r house dog when he sleeps with his body

stretched o u t nose upon his paws befo r e the fire The n
, , .

breathe very deeply but gently counti n g s i x at each r espi r a

tion To aid i n thi s d eep breathi n g p r ess o n e nost r il shut
.
,

by laying the forefin ger firmly agai n st it a n d d r awing the ai r

through the othe r nost r il Repeat this a half dozen time s
.
,

cou n ti n g s i x at each d r awi n g in a n d letti n g o u t of the a i r .

Call into use the hot water bottle or the warming pa n

-
.

Put on you r bed r oo m slippers if you awake with cold feet .

Pret e n d that you are sleepy eve n though you a r e not and , ,

let the eyelids slowl y close as thou gh d r oop i n g f rom their

1 70 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
whose expression lies where expression should in the flash ,

o f a sudden smile and the quick lighting o f b r illiant eyes .

N e ed I recou n t the symptoms of disordered n erves "

Not to mature wome n They k n ow them too well But

. .

for the benefit o f my younger readers to who m nerves are

yet happily only names I will describe a few
,
.

Irritability o f temper is one the most commo n and the

, ,

one which occasions the least s ympathy .

Exceedi n g sensitiveness which makes the person pro n e

,

to take o ffe n s e whe n no o ffense is i n te n ded is a n othe r ,

.

Dep ression o f spirits as o ften results from tired nerves as

fro m an overbu r dened liver .

“
The habit of making monkey f aces which I have s o
o ften noticed in American wome n .

The habit o f maki n g ma n y and needless movements .

The girl who flings her head al o ft in aimless little gestures

may think she is vivacious but vivacity is rather o f the
,

mi n d tha n o f the body S he is merely r evealing the u n

.

pleasant secret that her nervous system is impaired .

Capricious appetite is o n e o f the symptoms The nerv .

ous patie n t eats either too litt le o r t oo much and she may ,

eat too little breakfast and t oo much din n er on the same

day .

Insomnia is a sure and serious sign o f derangement o f

the nerves .

The i n ability to sit still for a c o nsiderable time is still

a n othe r a n d ve r y bad Sign that the nerves are as you s ay
here ragged o r j umpy .

I have seen one o f your most disti n guished a n d beautiful

women su ffer from this i n ability while at the theater and ,

to p reclude j okes by the parag r aphers I will explai n that ,

it was at a very good play whe r e n o person i n the normal

,

state could possibly be bored I have seen her lov ely hands
.

twitch in he r lap I have seen her k n ees c reate a silken

.
 THE FO U NDATIO N F OR B EAUTY 1 71

tempest amo n g the folds o f he r gown Int o her face I have .

seen that worried look come the look that so d i s figu r es

“
,

the av erage American fac e .

This overwrought state o f nerves has many causes .

S ometimes it i s a bad here d ity The daughters o f men .

with the alc oholic habit o f overwo r ked and over worried
,
-

financiers o ften su ffer f rom this predisposition of nerv es

,
.

T he daughters o f fashionable mothers who lace d too tightly

o r who followed the will o the wisp o f society too per
’
- - -

s i s t e ntly for their health s sake o ften s o su ff er

’
.
,

S timulants taken by the victi m herself o ften p ro d uce it .

B eware of these stimulants in many guises S ome of the .

headache powders open the gate to acute ne rvousness .

Don t use any without you r physicia n s endorsement

’ ’
.

But I believe that the chief cause o f nervous n ess i s i n

temperance not o f alcoholic or other stimulants but o f
, ,

mental habits Worry causes a tho u san d break d owns I

. .

never kne w work to cause o n e .

For those symptoms of nervous a ffection which I hav e

mentioned I have tried home treatment with success One .

o f the be st methods has bee n stretching S ta n ding o n my .

tiptoes r aising my heels far from the floo r standing as

, ,

nearly in that straight line from toe to k n ee which Genee

does so admirably as I c an I stretch and stretch my body
, , ,

fancying I am an India rubbe r woman an d getting great fun

o u t o f trying j ust how tall I can make myself S ometimes .

I raise my arms above my head with fi nger tips extended ,

and play again that I am trying to reach the ceiling .

The value in stretching is largely in the pleasu r e one

gets from it For this reason I never continue o n e postu r e
.

after it has become tiresome D ropping t o my heels a n d .

sta n ding with my soles flat upon the floor I stretch the a r ms ,

out at right angles with the sides The fact that one is .

always moved to yawn with this ex e r cI S e shows that it

1 72 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
is valuable For yaw n ing is natu r e s violent means of
.
’

r idding the body o f a n excess o f impure air and securing

a new supply .

I f yo u can yawn naturally do s o while stretching o r at ,

a n y other time I f you ca nn ot yawn naturally yaw n a r tifi

.
,

c i ally that is simulate a yaw n It is at least a s helpful to

, .

respiration as the Tu r kish bath is t o perspiration They .

are both substitutes fo r the n atu r al p r ocess .

Lettuce salad both at luncheon a n d di n ner o r raw o n ions

, ,

eaten with b r ead a n d butter at n ight before retiring calm ,

the nerves a n d aid sleep .

Light — that is surface — massage is a good corrective

for nervous n ess Deep seeki n g the —
. bone massage which
,
-
,

is used fo r live r complai n t a n d for obesity is too severe for ,

the nervous patient B esides s o ma n y o f the ne r ves lie

.
,

near the Ski n that the r egio n o f the skin is the real seat o f
operatio n s fo r cure Light massage by co axi n g the blood
.

to the surface and induci ng a new and stro n ger i nt e r fl o w

amo n g the n erves feeds and stre ngthe n s them
,
.

Electrical t r eatment applied t o the seat o f the ne rvous

a ff ection as well as to the sp me 1s a means that has stim
, ,

u lat e d ma n y dep ressed ne r vous patie n ts This I advise

,
.

o n ly u n de r the supervisio n o r at least by the directio n o f

, ,

a physician .

Long walks and for distu rbed nerves walki n g is better

,

than d r iving have cu r ed ma n y cases o f nerv e exhaustion

, .

Col d plu n ges or showe r s are recomme n ded by ma n y

‘

physicia n s for diminished n e r ve fo r ce But the patie n t .

should be sure the advice is adapted t o her individual case ,

and s he should be su r e o f her heart Neither the plu n ge .

no r the Shower shoul d be taken until a physician has pre

s cribed them .

Cold sprays upon the spi n e g iven at Turkish baths are

tonic to the ne r v ous system They too c a n be applied at .
, ,

h o me The rubber tube fix tures for a spray c an be bought

.
1 74 MY S E C RET S OF BEAUTY

may cause a sensation o f d i z ziness But this is not alarm .

i n g O n the othe r hand it is encouraging It means that

.
, .

the poor pale ill nourished brain is receiving as large a

, ,
-

blood supply as it needs and it will soon become used to

you r new generosity .

I f yo u are n ot s o situate d that you can get to a garden ,

a roo f o r open window t r y to go alo n e to a room whe r e

,

you c an recline for a few minutes There let the muscles .

become limp Foldi n g the a rms abo v e the breast or clasp

.

i n g the ha n ds loosely above the stomach will aid this .

To be sure that both nostrils are doing perfect work ,

p r ess one shut by placi n g the fi n ger agai n st it a n d breathi n g

through the other Ge n erally you will discover that the
.

left nostril draws a larger volume o f air th rough it than

does the right I have noticed it v er y fre quently while
.

doi n g my deep breathing .

Test the correct n es s o f your breathing by placi n g you r

ha n ds against y our abdome n I f its walls rise a n d fall .

regularly and in obedie n ce to every breath you a r e doi ng ,

deep b r eathing I f not you have not maste r ed the a r t

.
,
.

In two weeks by repeati n g these exe r cises s i x o r eight

,

times a day for t w o o r three mi n utes each time you will ,

not only have lea rn ed how but you will have derived such

W
,

benefit from it that yo u would not eve r forget givi n g up

s o healthful and improvi n g a practice .

hat does it do for o e n " I c an hear as an ech o this

que stion impatie n tly put by practical Ame r ican wome n
, .

That is the femi n i n e variatio n o f the question often heard

”
in America " What do I get o t o it
u f "

Y o u get ou t o f it free well developed lungs , Y o u get .

c hest expansio n You get i f yo u begi n early enough i m

.
,
,

munity from that dread disease tuberculosis You get , .

quieted ne r ves a n d an imp r oved temper You get p u r e .

bloo d which will make your complexio n clear You .

e nergize the whole body and stimulate your vital fo r ces .

 W
C H APTER XII I

HO T O A CQ U I R E A P LE A S I NG V OI CE

F you would h a v e a beautifu l v oice shun its tw o greates t

I e nemie s coryz a ( cold in the head ) an d the evil emo
,

tions .

Every woman would have a beauti ful vo ice fo r it is i n ,

deed one of the most excellent things in woman To my .

mind it is the most desirable possession in the worl d But .

then I am a singer I wish only to be a singer I f the

. .

singing v oice were d enie d me I shoul d choose i f I might ,

have my choice first a lovely face then a lovely figure and

, , ,

thi r d a cha r ming speaking voice .

There have been beautiful women without agreeable

v oices but never a fascinating o ne The voice rather than
, .

the eyes is the seat o f magnet ism M a n y a plai n woma n .

has e njo ye d that invaluable gift of personal mag n etism and

‘

students o f character have been ba ffled by it until they

guessed the riddle o f her voice Plai n women with low well.
,

modulated v o ices w ith the heart note in them are mo re ,

da n gerous rivals than pretty women who sc r eech as pea

cocks P ainfully often the p retty fac e a n d figure are ac
.

companied by the ha r sh s queaki n g voice The reaso n is

, .

the same that exists for the fact that pretty wome n seldom
cultivate the power o f charm Content with what nature .

has g1v e n them they make no e ffort to be respo n sive or

,

e n tertaining Thei r voices fall gratingly upo n all ears but

.

their o w n which hav e been dulled by praise o f their natural

,

beau ty .
1 76 MY S ECRET S OF BEAUTY

Every woman may not have a sweet voice but every ,

woman may have an ag r eeable o n e The pleasantest speak .

i n g voice is more often made than born It is susceptible .

o f cultivation .

The uncultivated voice reflects the emotions as candidly

as the eye mi r ro r forth the soul Culture o f person a n d .

voice gradually supp r ess o r at least rest r ai n this faculty

, ,
.

I f the voice be pleasa n t it should reflect o n ly pleasant

thi ngs This let it be understood applies o n ly to the speak
.
, ,

i n g voice I am n ot givi n g in this a r ticle a si ngi n g lesson

. .

Anger suspicion j ealousy covetousness if they be felt

, , , , ,

must be imp r iso n ed i n the spirit AS disfiguri n g t o v o i c e .

as face are these which have been called the dark emo
I f t hey cannot be elimi n ated from the soul they
”
tions .

must b e drive n o u t of the voice The dark emotio n s make .

the voice harsh The silly emotions make it shrill Me n tal

. .

and character poise a r e the father and mother o f the beauti

ful speaki n g voice .

Coryza ( cold in the head ) is a menace to the voice .

Hoa r se n ess hides the beauties o f a voice as a thick veil

the face o f a woman Colds Should b e avoided Or hav . .

i n g been contracted they shoul d as quickly as possible be

,

cured .

Many women o f full habit who as they say feel a , ,

”
cold coming o n go immediately to the Turkish baths
, ,

a n d by d r astic treatment rid themselves quickly o f it This .

,

if followed by g r eat care t o p reve n t catchi ng a fresh cold

immediately after the bath is a good remedy S o t o o is , .
, ,

th e ancient o n e o f r etiri n g early a n d with many bla n kets

added to the usual amount o f bed clothi n g to coax a heavy
perspi r atio n This c an be greatly aided by the other O ld
.

fashio n ed remedy o f a glass o f hot lemo n ade A moderate .

dose of qui n i n e is als o e ff ective in breaki n g u p a cold ” ’

The roots o f the disease havi n g thus bee n plucked up ,

the accompanying u gliness ca u sed by rheumy eyes swollen , ,

178 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUT Y

I am glad to s ee tha t fi g and apricot paste has been

importe d from the Orient for P ersian women have su c
,

c es s fu ll
y used this j am like con fection
-
an d medicine fo r

many generations for the cure o f hoarseness .

Weak eld er fl o w e r tea is an admirable remedy A n i n .

fusion o f chickwee d is als o recommende d Thes e latter .

should be inhaled The fig and apricot paste is o f course

.
, ,

for i n ternal use .

Mme Pompadour the famous F rench beauty used to

.
, ,

clear her voice o f huskiness b y inhaling the fumes o f "

Pulve r ized myrrh 1 ou n ce ; amber 5 0 grains
, , .

A husky voice indicates that the th roat is d ry Our .

ancestresses k n e w this and made their children dri n k much

sweet milk o r buttermilk t o remove hoarseness The poor .

si n ger seeki n g relief f r o m that distress by sucking a lemo n

has been a subj ect fo r caricaturists fo r t w enty years But .

the ludicrous practice has a basis in common sense A .

lemon is a broom fo r the throat A raw egg b eaten with .

t he lemo n j uice se r ves that purpose and is soothing to the

’

burning throat .

While I was si n ging in P hila d elphia I ac quired a bad

cold O n e o f the o ld families who had always extend ed
.

me the courtesy o f their home and friendship o ff ered me

a cough syrup they called S tewed Q uake r ”
It was s o .

quickly effi cacious that I aske d for the formula Here it .

°
15

New Orl e ans molasses M pint ; bu tt e r 1 tabl esp oo nful ;

, ,

white suga r 1 tea s poon ful ; vinega r 1 tab le sp o onful

, , .

Cold comp r esses o ften cur e a sore throat over night Into .

i c e cold water dip a fold o f cotton cloth Wring it out .

o n ly dry en o ugh to p r event its dripping Pin this tightly .

around the thr o at with safely pins and over the compress ,

pin a fold o f flannel S oo n the heat f r om the neck causes

.

“
vapor and loosens the cold In the morning remove the
.

compress an d massage the neck wi th oli v e oil .

 T o AC QU I R E A
’

PL EA S I N G V O I C E 1 79

I f you value your voice try to avoi d that p r otracted u n

pleasa n t n ess which is k n own as a summer cold .

To best understand how to prevent a cold let us pe r fect ly ,

understand i t s causes I s ay causes not cause for an

.
,

authority o n the subj ect has recently said that there are
four co n ditions that bri n g about the annoying and dangerous
”
condition we call a cold .

There must be lowere d vitality In other w o rd s a p erson .

,

may be in that state w e describe as run d own

”
When w e .

are run d own o r seedy as they s ay in England o u r

” “
, ,

resista n ce is lessened ; w e are like a besieged town whose

walls a re falling In this unprotecte d state w e have little
.

chance against a cold .

A simila r condition is fatigue We are more p rone to .

catch col d when we are tired because the good white cor ,

p u s c le s in the bloo d the bo d y s

,
de fenders are lessene d by ’
,

wea r iness Also fatigue creates an excess o f certain gases

.

in the b ody carbonic aci d gas among others an d these

, ,

sel f poisons weaken the body and open the doors to cold
-
.

No w how to p revent a cold

, Keep you r liver active . .

I f it becomes lazy take plenty o f exercise to stir it into

activity If the live r is torpid the poison it should take
.
,

care o f is cast upon the m u cous membrane irritati n g it ,

a n d causing catarrh .

B e sure that your digestion is th e best an d that the i n

t e s t i n al tract is kept clear Unless you d o this there may
.

be an irritation o f the lining o f the i n testi n es that will

cause all of the alimentary tract to become cata r rhal This .
,

i n tu rn will extend to the nose and throat To avoid i n

, .

digestio n b e careful that you eat only nourishing foods

, .

Tuberculosis is more common in the poorer quarters o f

eve r y city especially o f London and p hysicians have c o n
, ,

cluded that this is not because they do not have enough

to eat but becaus e they eat too many starchy foods as
, ,

pa stry and potatoes an d too many sweets as candy

, ,
.
1 80 MY S ECRET S OF BEAUTY
Prevent a c o ld by activity Why do you catch a cold when .

you lie down without any cove r ing except the garments
you are wearing " B ecause whe n you are i n active you r
body is relaxed and the temperature is lo w ered Exercise .

much keep the blo o d flowing briskly and you will generally
, ,

avoid colds .

But be not satisfied with avoiding stagnant bloo d Avoid .

stag n a n t air Keep the air circulati ng i n the r oom you o c

.

c up y . Try to keep a stream o f f r esh air flowing through

your room At a n y rate keep the wi n dow open two o r three
.
,

inches at the top no matter what the weathe r

,
.

Cold plu n ge o r shower o r sp o nge baths harden the skin

and help to make o n e immu n e from colds but befo r e b e ,

gi n ni n g to take them ask a physicia n s advice You may ’

.

n o t have enough vitality t o e n dure the ordeal I f you h ave .

your physician s O the best time to begin is in the

’
.

summer .

Avoid coughi n g when you ca n for coughi n g i s some ,

times merely a n ervous habit Besides a cough irritates .

,

the li n i n g o f the throat .

The old fashioned remedy fo r a cold o f swallowi n g a

-
,

mixture o f equal parts o f vi n egar and molasses is as good ,

now as it was when o u r g r a n dmothers dosed us plentifully

a n d e ffectually fo r hoarseness A pleasante r a n d perhaps .

mo r e refined remedy is t he ple n tiful use o f honey Use .

it f r eely o n bread o r with rice at table a n d swallow a table

spoo n ful of it whenever betwee n meals you feel the tickling
sensatio n that prece d es coughi n g .

Gargli n g with strong salt water ofte n clears the throat ,

saving fits o f viole n t coughing .

A good method a n d a simple one o f relief f r o m violent

, ,

coughi n g is to place upo n the chest hot cloths followed by ,

cold ones then hot the n cold s o alter n ati ng ma n y times

, , ,
.

This re establishes natural circulation and restored circula

ti o n means relief f rom cold .
1 82
I
MY S ECRET S OF BEAUTY
weight o f the j aw T his a dd s to the impression o f streng th
.

o f character but it s ubtracts much from the s u m o f the

,

beauty o f a face .

I have refer r e d to the f ace because I wish to appl y it

as a determini n g factor in j udging the beauty o f the figure .

The sculptor s test o f the beauty o f a face is its profile

’
.

I f the profile is strong a n d beautiful the face is e qually ,

st r o n g an d beautiful In other wo r ds the beauty o f a face

.
,

cannot exceed that o f its profile S o the determini ng view .

o f a figure as to its beauties or its defects is the profile

vie w The woman who woul d imp r ove her figure shoul d
.

study it critically from the side Fo r this reason the woman .

,

who sells her easy chair and buys a duplex o r triple mirror
i s an economist o f her own beauty .

D e termine i n what respect your fi gure varies f r om the

canons o f beauty and try to conform to them Are you a
, .

little too short for the breadth o f your figure " S tretch
i n g exercises should add somewhat to your height S ta n d .

befo re the O pen windo w and with hands back to back the , ,

fi n ger tips touching rise upon yo u r toes and stretch to y our

,

greatest height .

S o the woman who would be taller Should recline a gr ea t

deal take as much sleep as possible P hysiologists hav e
, .

p roven that the body is co n siderably taller in the morning

than i n the evening This is because the muscles and .

j oints have r elaxed while during the varied exercises o f

,

the day they have cont r acted The mass o f muscles have
much in common with india rubber — they have elastic
.

p roperties .

The critical view in the duplex or triple mirro r may r e

veal that the figure is too broad or too thick for i t s height .

I f too b road the de fect is serious and will be di fficult if , ,

not impossible o f remedy If too thick diet exercise o r

, .
, ,

massage o r all of these may be summo n ed B readth r e

, , .

v eals the framework o f the bo dy indicating usu ally that it ,

 HO W T O I MPROVE YOUR FI GURE

massive You cannot change the framework o f a

.
1 83

no r yet o f the human body The modification m u st .

c e in that which covers it the layers o f muscles ,

an The figure that i s t oo thick that is fro m front ,

to o f waist or from the middle o f the spinal col u mn

,

to t he point o f the bust may be materially improved ,

.

F o r this improv ement I woul d look first to the back

I alw ays notice instantly whether the back be st r aight and
'

flat or round and full F o r in that di fference lies much o f

.

the elegan ce or lack o f it in a female figu re I f the back is .

full and the hips bulge the waist is large the fi gu r e has no
,

eleganc e ; i s indeed common I f you are the po ssessor

, ,
.

o f such blemishes to beauty you shoul d at once s et at work

to remove the de fects .

Fi r st give attention t o your d iet Eat muc h less than .

usual S ay reduce your diet at the beginning by o ne

.

quarter then o ne third and after that o ne hal f T he slim

,
-
,
-
.

mi n g results will soon become apparent .

But d o not b e satisfie d with o n e means o f securing a

flatter back and slender hips Exercise especially in the .
,

open air Walk walk walk begi n ni n g with a Sho r t walk

.
, , ,

i f yo u are unaccustome d to walking and increasing the ,

distance each day .

And i f possible have reco u rse to massage I hav e b e .

fore said i n this series o f articles that I consider massage

the first aid to beauty It has always seemed t o me a .

cure all fo r defects i n b e au ty It improves th e complexion

- ‘

.
,

improves the figure brighte n s the exp ression an d makes

,

more beautiful the eyes Therefore t o give t he flat back .

,

and narrow hips that are part o f an elegant fi gure I ad ,

vise d eep massage with an astringent liquid p r eparation

,
.

S ome adve n turou s women have taken i nternal remedies

under the a dvice o f their physician which is the onl y sa f e ,

way to take any inter n al obesity medicine I have never .

a dv ised re d uction remedies to be s o t aken B y absorption . ,

1 84 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUTY

however I consi d er this to be a good r emedy fo r ove r

,

d ev el opment
Oil o f swee t almonds 4 ounces ; tincture o f benzoin 1 , ,

d ram ; extract o f Portugal 4 ounces ; oil o f neroli 2 0 drops , ,

.

This too is a good astri n ge n t lotio n

, ,

Tincture o f iodine 3 0 mi n ims ; iodide o f potassiu m 6 0 , ,

grams ; distilled wate r 1 0 ou n ces ; aniseed water 1 70 , ,

minims .

Also this
Tinctu r e o f iodine 1 ounce ; alcohol 1 0 ounces , ,
.

I f o n the othe r hand the critical side view reveals not

, ,

only the back a n d sides as too thi n but the e n tire outline ,

as too meager then this cream freely applied by light a n d

, ,

frequent massage i s an aid in curve maki n g a n d flesh

,
-

building
Fresh mutto n tallow 6 ounces ; lanoli n 6 ounces ; sper , ,

mace ti M ounce ; cocoanut oil 4 ou n ces

, , .

This too is a good tissue feedi n g cream

, ,
-

La n oli n 60 grams ; o i l of sweet almo n ds 4 0 gr ams ; tan

, ,

nin 1 gram
, .

Wome n w ho think their busts are too large write me

o fte n asking how they may reduce them Pe r so n ally I .
,

do not approve o f any treatment except a gene r al dietary ,

and general exercise such as te n ds to reduce all po r tio n s o f

,

the body In v iew o f the ma n y requests I receive from

.

determined women beggi n g Such a recipe I give this Euro ,

pean formula but I protest against a n y woman using it

,

unless with the sanction of he r p hysicia n

Oil o f sweet almonds 1 00 grams ; white wax 5 0 grams ; , ,

tincture o f benzoin 2 5 grams ; rosewater 2 5 grams ; ta n

, ,

nin 1 5 grams
,
.

After exercise and diet for improvi n g the figure there is ,

nothi n g so important as t o be well corseted I f possible .

h ave your co r sets made to order Pay less fo r a gown i f .

necessary to order a better corset Get o n e that is pliable .

1 86 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
S ome women are really tall enough but they look dumpy , ;

The thing for them to do at o n ce is to reduce their weight .

I f you r educe your hips you will look taller is an axiom

o f the beauty culturists S o s et about it If yo u are sho r t
. .

and t hi n then hasten to broaden your shoulders expand

, ,

an d inflate your lu n gs ; draw back your elb o ws and breathe

d eeply Fill ou t your bust a n d chest This will ac tually
. .

make yo u taller and appear more s o .

S hort girls generally car r y themselves badly Keep your .

head thrown back and your chin o u t The woman who .

keeps her chin down in he r neck always looks shorter than

s he is . Take physical culture lessons all you short girls , ,

w ho would be tall ; learn to walk g r ace fully and train your ,

muscles into suppleness Take walks in the O pen air with

.

a light buoya n t step your shoulders thrown back b r eathing

, , ,

deeply through your nose And stretch yoursel f every.

,

moment o f the day when yo u can .

Thre e inches real o r apparent may b e adde d to a

, ,
’
woman s statu re by a little common sense .

The short girl who would be tall should go in s ys temat

i cally for stretchi n g exercises L ie down flat and stretch
.

o ut your arms as far as possible above your head Also

—
.

practice neck movements keep on stretching your neck

o u t j ust like a goose to elongate it S tretch your legs out
, .

taut and keep stretching yourself on tiptoe Hold up your .

chin and you r abdomen and st r etch conti n ually H ere a r e

,
.

some excellent stretching exercises to make you supple and

straight — an d taller
Lie flat o n your back o n a hard mattress Plant palms .

downward straight at the sides but do not grip the ticking ,

with them Now draw the legs up Slowly bendi n g at the

.
,

knees and holdi n g the knee s in the air a n d heels close to

,

the bo dy Now with a quick sudden movement thrust the

.
, , ,

legs out straight and flat on t he bed the toes st r etched as ,

far as possible an d pointing down This brings into play .

 H O W T O I M P R O VE YO UR F I GU RE 1 87

every muscle from the knee to the tip o f the toes an d set s
the limbs tingli n g D raw up slowly counting seven and
.
,

inhaling ; hold position through seven count s and agai n ,

thrust down exhaling through the mouth Rest four

,
.

counts and repeat .

Lie flat o n the back heels and balls o f the feet together
, ,

arms at sides palms down B reath e Slowly seven times

, . .

Now with the shoulders or u pper p a r t o f the trunk rigidly

,

flat o n the bed raise the middle o f the trunk generally

, ,

known as the waist line by the muscles o f the hips Inhal e

,
.

as you l i ft cou n ting seven ; exhale as you fall Next inhale

,
.

deeply and lift the lowe r part o f the trunk an d let it fall i n
quick succession repeating the movement p erhaps fi ve times
,

while inhaling once .

Reverse the exercise d escribed above ; that is let the ,

lower part o f the trunk rest o n the bed and li ft from the
waist line up by means o f the muscle s o f the s houlder
blades U s e the same method s o f counting inhaling while
.
,

counting seven ; hold the position then lower the trunk , ,

counting seven and exhaling Then work rapidly with

,
.
,

five quick uplifts to each breath .

It is well to scan you r figu re occasionally in the mirro r

-
to satis facto rily do this y ou nee d a full length mirror
an d decide what are its flaws and how to rid yo u rsel f o f
t hem .

Per h aps you have a dis figuring stoop Ri d yo u rsel f o f .

this if necessary by wearing sho u lder br aces Yo u can

, , . .

buy stron g reliable one s at mo s t d rug stores an d yo u c an

, ,

make them fo r your s elf with two s trong stitc h ed ban d s o f

muslin to which cross pieces ar e attache d Fasten the s e to .

your cors ets by sa fety pins Perhaps that apparent stoop .

is due not to actual bending o f the should e r s but to a roll

o f superfluous fat that accum u lates j ust below the neck o n
women w ho have attaine d thirty years or even before , .

Remove this u nsightly blemish by se v eral met h o d s F irst .

,
1 88 MY S ECRET S O F B EAUT Y
throw away your pillow and lie with head and feet on a
level Fo r m the habit o f standi n g very erect S tretch
. .

your arms Sideways and o n a level with your Shoulders

and twirl them rapidly backwar d .

There are always several preparations which can be used

to advantage if applied outwardly Bathe the shoulders .

every night with this rubbi n g it thoroughly i n t o the

,

shoulde r s "
Iodide o f potassium 1 ou n ce ; alcohol 1 2 ounces
, , .

I f your limbs are to o heavy as is liable to be the case

,

in America where women s figures a r e not s o well p ropo r

,
’

t i o n e d as in many other countries the lower part o f the ,

body being d isposed to stout n ess walk much This will , .

reduce the bulk o f the fat a n d make t he muscles solid .

Occasionally I receive letters aski n g me t o tell a girl how

to make the limbs larger a n d more shapely Massage with .

olive o il should enlarge them To i n quiries as to how to

.

make the thin ankles plumpe r I make the same reply .

No fi gure is attractive if the hips a r e o u t o f proportion

to the rest o f the body They should b e neither t oo large
.

nor too small but in perfect accord with the rest o f the
,

figure I f the rest o f the figure is thin and the hips plump
.

the e ffect is ludicrous I f the bo d y is ample and the hips

.

flat the hips are incongruous Fashion may dictate broad

.

hips o ne se as on and nar r ow hips the next but their i d eal ,

si z e remains the same They must loo k as though they

.

be lo ng to that body an d no other .

They sho ul d be am phora shape d as any sculptor will te ll ,

you A n amphora you know is a large Roman vase with

.
, ,

lines ex q ui sitely curved downward S tudy the pictures of .

statues o f the ancient Greeks and you will comp r ehe n d the
beauty of the hip line in the natural fi gure They are .

neither over heavy no r too thin .

The bo n es Shoul d be well covere d but there should be ,

no fat creases an d no loose hanging ski n I f there is to o .

1 96 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUTY

Fourth stand as I at fi r st described the body straight

, , ,

t he chest and head high th e heels together Raise the

, .

han d s sidewise above the head b r ingi n g the tips of the ,

fi ngers together Then i n the posture that swimmers take

.
,

before they dive bend slowly forward keep in g the knee s

, ,

straight until the finger tips reach the ground Repeat this
, .

u ntil fatigue warns you to stop N ever exercise until .

weary .

B ut even a perfect fi gure avails little unless you hav e

grace When I am asked how to b e grace ful I answer
.
,

B e care ful o f your moveme n ts whe n alo n e a n d u n con

”
scious o f the m when you are in public Grace can be cul .

t i v a te d There is no excuse for a woman who is n ot de

.

fo rmed bei n g awkwar d There are deg r ees in grace but

.
,

eve r y woman may possess it to some exte n t .

To the woman who wishes to e n hance her natural grace ,

o r w ho having none desires to add it to her charms I

, , ,

advise first o f all the study o f great paintings and statuary

that are models o f line and po i se L i n e is impo rta n t but .
,

I have seen women w ho were all straight li n es to whom ,

nature had given n ot o ne gracious cu r ve who we r e never ,

t hele s s g r ace ful The lo n g flowing li n es o f g r ace may be

.
,

assisted by careful dressi n g a n d this a dressmaker may do ,

fo r us but poise which is a much bigger a n d bette r wo r d

, ,

than pose i n cludi n g pose and muc h more comes from

, ,

withi n a n d may be self taught .

I wis h that ev ery wo man w ho reads this chapter would

pay a visit to the nearest art ga llery and study if there be ,

o n e a good copy o f the wonderful Venus de Milo

,
Let he r .

s tudy it until something o f the inward stre n gt h which gives

it its wonder ful bala n ce a n d power and perfect symmet r y

is reve aled t o her .

One o f the secret s o f that ma rvelous statue is the calm

soul it expresses Again a n d again I have said that
.

serenity is the chief secret o f beauty and I point to the ,

 H o w T o I MPR O VE YOUR FIGURE 19 1

Venus de Milo in proo f o f my assertion The nerv ous .

,

distraught ill centered woman reveals he r soul state by

,
-

nervous abrupt awkward moveme n ts

,
.

Compose yoursel f i n wardly a n d s e e with what grace

a n d stre ngth you stand before you r mi r ror Permit some .

emotion to disturb you and note the ravagi n g unlovely, ,

e ffect Grace is poise and poise means a calm soul cen

.
,

ter.

F o r a grace ful carriage w e must consider how t o stand

how to walk and ho w to sit The late Hei n rich C onried .
,

bei n g asked to describe a beauti ful w oman said That ,

is simple S he i s harmonio us
.
”
What he meant w as that .

s he was harmonious within an d ha r mo n ious without the ,

i n ward harmony re v ealing itself in the outer There w as .

no discord in her To stand in a drawi n g room as y o u

.

would stan d o n the ledge o f a mountain would be i nhar

mo n i o u s To S it on a high backed chair with straight li n es
.
-
,

as you would Sit upon an ott oman o r a t éte a t ete would ,

- -

be st r ikingly discordant To walk into a ballroom as you

.

would s et forth fo r a walk along the beac h would be ludi

.

c ro u s
. There must be in eve r y moveme n t harmo n y with
your surroundings and you must yourself be go v erned by
,

the immediate circumstances .

L ola Montez the enchanting dancer and the dancing e n

,

chantress well kne w the v alue o f a graceful carriage a n d

,

o f the cheerful spirit o f which it is an exp ression S he .

A crushed s ad o r moping spirit e speciall y if al

“
said " , , ,

lowe d at a tender age when the body i s fo rming is a fatal

, ,

cause o f a flabby and moping body A bent and stooping .

form is quite sure to c o me o f a bent an d stooping spirit .

I f you would stand well s i t w ell walk well lie well sway
, , , ,

g r acefully o n the poised waist a s upon a pivot ”

.

Given a straight healthy spine straight stro n g bo n es a n d , ,

the serene spirit o f which I have spoken and there remai n s ,

for grace two necessities knowledge and training One ,

.
1 92 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
must know ho w to hold the body correctly before she c an
s o hold it .

The correct position o n e in which the balance o f all

,

parts o f the body is perfectly preserved is almost but not , ,

quite erect It should incline very slightly forward above

,
.
,

the hips The weight o f the body shoul d rest fi r mly upon
.

the balls o f the feet The heels Should be close together

. .

The knees should also be close neighbors The arms in

’

standing should hang naturally at the Sides with the elbows

close to the sides .

O n e position only i s p r oper fo r the chin I t should be .

well up Notice any woman whose chin is lowered

. .

S hadows fall about the hollows o f the face o r create an ,

illusion o f hollows there Every woma n looks five years

.

older with her chin lowered Also such a pose o f the head .

will make wrinkles in the fairest a n d plumpest neck .

Nature design ed w o man to hold her head as p r oudly as

that o f a mettlesome horse The ches t should be held up .

an d o u t .

Observe how a well t r ained soldier stands on parade

-
.

That is an excelle n t model He appears to have no abdo .

men s o well is it hel d in His shoulder blades are flat as

,
.

a kni fe .

I f the shoulder blades are not naturally flat shoulder ,

braces should b e wor n to co rr ect the p r oj ecti n g o n es and

to destroy the round shouldered e ffect s o dest r uctive o f
-

the beauty o f a figure These can be pu r chase d at d r ug

.

stores and department stores but c an be made at home at ,

slight cost S titch two lo n g st r ips o f coutil two a n d a hal f

.

inches wide in ma n y parallel rows to make it stro n g .

Fasten these at the back j ust over the Shoulders with

another ho r izontal stitched ba n d o f the same width A .

simple exercise for saggi n g shoulders is to draw the arms

behi n d you bend them at the elbows and thrust a cane
,

between the elbows and back .

1 94 MY S ECRET S O F B E AU TY

an a d mirable hint The upper hal f o f the bo dy Shoul d b e

.

e v ident in the walk The lo wer sh o ul d be merely a means

.

to the end o f walking .

The walk should invite attention only to the fine poise

o f the head the perfect carriage of th e chest the straight
, ,

ness of the back The limbs shoul d be forgotten A walk

. .

which attracts attention to them is always an awkward

walk The upper pa r t o f the body sh o ul d be as free as
.

though it turned itself upon a pivot The lower part Should .

be regarded and utilized merely as a pedestal for holding

t he U pper In walking as i n standing the weight Should
.
,

rest upon the ball o f the feet The toes should be turned .

Slightly o u tward The knee j oints shoul d move easily and

.

the m o vement o f the whole o f the lower part o f the body

sh ould be a stately and apparently unco n scious motion .

S ome women there a r e w ho stand well and walk well ,

who s i t badl y Indeed they do not s i t They lounge

.
,
. .

The same law o f balance shoul d hold in all That is the .

,

weight should b e evenly distributed no portio n o f the body ,

havi n g to bear the lion s share o f the burden As a rule ’

.
,

the comfortable attitude is t he correct o n e in Sitting ,

though this is not true o f the lazy person who sits wit h
chin lowered upon breast and abdomen thrust fo rwa r d as ,

a caricature o f the human form S it with the feet resting .

upon the floor o r upon a footstool Never let them swi n g .

without support S it straight o r rest against a straight

.
,

backed chair with the lower part o f the body pushed close
,

against the chai rb ack This is a much better way to rest .

than the hal f lying h al f sitting posture that is so ungrace

-
,
-

ful .

In stan d ing don t throw the hips far back They should
,
’
.

be straight in easy line with t he body In w alking do not

,
.
,

swing the arms In sitting keep the crown o f the head up

.
,

and back .
 HO W TO I M P R O VE YOUR F I GU RE 1 95

To test your carriage pass the han d across the back

, .

I f the ends o f the shoulder blades can he felt at a ligh t

touch o f the fingers the ca r riage is incorrect The sh o ul
,
.

ders must be drawn farther back .

 W W
CHAPTER XV

SA F E, E A S Y A Y S O F R ED U C I N G E I GHT

N this chapter I shall try to answer that which I call

”
The Great American Q uestion In other countries .

where I have lived a n d visited women ask What shall I , ,

do to remain y oung " ”

In America women h ave by their
intelligence solved that problem Here the torturing ever .
,

recurring question is What shall I do to be thi n

,
"

Fat i s the greatest foe to American beauty But it is a .

self created foe American wome n lear n ed in all other

-
.
,

matters o f personal hygiene ignore that which is chief the , ,

hygiene o f the table .

I will not s ay that Ame r ican women overeat They eat .

the wrong things In food they deal in extremes which

.
,

are always detrimental whether to beauty or to morals

,
.

They eat what is ve r y sweet o r ve ry sou r They eat what , .

i s very cold or very hot They eat foods that are too highly
.

spiced o r underdone Extremes always extremes " And

, .
,

when they have had t oo much o f this extreme food and the ,

tortured stomach revolts they go to another extreme and

, ,

fast which is in my opi n ion a most pernicious ext r eme

, , ,
.

One fac t that the stout woman should keep ever before
her mind as a sig n al light before a ship battling its way to
,

port is that f resh air is a destructive agent to fat Oxygen

, .

bur n s carbon T o make this clea r let me ask you if you

.
,

have notice d how a dyi n g fire flames up when a draught o f

cold air is turned u pon it That is p recisely what happe n s
when a woman who is to o fat goes o u t for a walk Carbon .
,

which is in the great folds o f flesh that lie upon her abdo
men and blanket her hips is also a component part o f the
,

19 6
 1 98 MY S ECRET S O F B EAUTY

reduction in weight I f a woman sees that her belts have .

become t oo la rge and that she needs a dressmaker o r tailor

to take in her gowns abou t the hips i t does n ot matter
whether she has lost fi v e o r twenty poun d s S he has ac .

complished that which s he resolved to do S he has grown .

beautifully less .

I have kn o wn women w ho never walke d more than a few

blocks at a time accomplis h a ten mile w alk in a mor n ing -
.

The wisdom o f this I always questione d Walking i s of no .

permanent value unles s i t is regularly done B ette r th r ee .

miles every morni n g than ten miles twice a week B esides .

an exceedi n gly lo n g walk i s a severe tax u pon muscles u n

u sed to walki n g The muscles must b e treated ge n tly a s .

little children They should b e slowly accustomed to thei r

. .

task .

Riding is an excellent reducing agent A morning gallop .

in the park o r alo n g country roads will soon dimi n ish pon
d er ou s flesh Golfi n g is excelle n t S wimmi n g is admirable
. . .

D rivi n g because the body is e n tirely passive is o f little u s e

'
‘

.
, ,

I n door exercise i n a gymnasium is better much better than , ,

nothing but outdoor exercise distances it by o n e hu n dred

,

per ce n t Although the windows o f the room be opened

.

wide the ro om does not p ro vide half the oxygen yielded b y

f—
the great out o doors -
.

A fter the burning aid o f fresh air in im p o rtance comes ,

diet The stout woman should try reduci n g the qua n tity o f
.

her food o n e third then o n e half S he should eliminate

-
,
-
.

from i t these dishes

Pork v eal bea n s peas fat beef or mutton cauliflower
, , , , , ,

potatoes milk co n tai n i n g c r eam puddings pies ca n dy

, , , , ,

sugar white bread eels salmo n chocolate beets butter red

, , , , , , ,

wine ice cream ,

.

S he shoul d substitute for them

Lean meats eggs gr een vegetables ( as spinach stri n g
, , ,

beans asp aragus beet t 0 p s ) oranges whole wheat graha m

, , , , ,
or
S AFE W AY S O F REDU CI N G WEIG H T

gluten bread white brea d toaste d t h in an d crisp saccha

, , ,
1 99

rin e instead of sugar f r esh o r dried fruits

,
.

A famous woman rid hersel f of ten superfluous pounds

i n a mo n th by a modification o f the milk diet S he dran k .

two quarts o f skimmed milk a day and ate but o n e meal , .

S he dined at seven with her famil y H er breakfast and .

luncheo n consisted o f two glasses o f skimme d milk S he

,
.

sipped the milk giving herself five minutes for each glass
, ,

for she knew milk w a s rather a food than a beverage an d ,

that since it passed speedily into the consistency o f cheese

in the stomach it must be Slowly swallowed The remainde r .

o f the two quarts o f her d ai ly s t i nt she sippe d wheneve r

'

hu n ger gnawed and she w as tempte d to return to her o ld

diet of what in America you call three s q uares a da y .

S everal o f my friends have re d uce d their weight by the

e xpedient of taking a lo n g walk as long as their s t rengthl
,

would permit be fore break fast but the nearly uncontrol

, ,

lable appetite fo r the de ferred meal created by this e xercis e

is a discouraging element Others have been success ful in
.

reduci n g flesh by foregoing their breakfast altogethe r Man y .

dieticia n s agree tha t breakfast is the fattening meal

‘

And there is reason to believe t he stomach nee d s breakfast

less than any other meal since there has been no special
,

o utlay of strength during the night o f rest as during the da y

o f activity .

The fashionable w oman use d to think that she shoul d res t

immediately after a meal N ow she walks slowly o r at
.
,

least stands fo r twe n ty minutes a fter each meal being con ,

v i n c e d that if she sits o r lies down after a meal he r abdo

men will be come distended o n e o f the most u n sightl y f orms

,

o f superfluous flesh .

Massage a n d baths are an un d oubted aid in the re d uction

of flesh Massage should not be made to take the place o f
.

exercise It should supplement it It is e stimated tha t

. .

thorough massage given b y a skillful operator is e q uivalent

2 00 MY S ECRET S O F .
B E AU T Y

to a seven mile walk But if this be true s o far as the physi

-
.

cal e ffort i s co n cerned there is no substitute for the carbon

,

destroying bath o f o xygen .

No room can be s o well ventilated as to approach the

purity o f the outer air The woman w ho is taking massage
.

to reduce her flesh should not rest afterward The massage .

Should b e followed by a dip into a bathtub o f tepid water ,

a sc rub and a salt rub a cool spra y and dressing calisthe n ics
, ,

or a walk .

Do not allo w your masseuse t o use oil o r col d cream .

Talcum powder is best for the woman who wa n ts to be thin .

Reduction medicines I do not advise Certainly I should .

n ever use o n e o f them i n ternally without co n sulting a physi

ci an a n d havi n g the compound analyzed
,
There a r e drastic .

remedies that reduce the flesh an d demoralize the digestive

apparatus Far better i n this i n stance the ill than the rem
.

edy and its co n seque n t evils .

S ome p reparations of an absorbent nature I have known

to be used with go o d results Most of these contain iodi n e
. .

There are several soaps used for the purpose o f massage ,

all co n tai n i n g iodi n e After receiving my physicia n s em

.
’

d o r s emen t a n d havi n g the soap a n alyzed by a scrupulous

chemist there would seem to be no dange r atte nding their
use.

This formula is safe and if persistently used should be

, ,

e ff ective as a n abso rbe n t remedy I have known corpule n t

.

beauties w ho took it internally but I should never b e so

,

dari n g "
Ti n cture o f iodine 3 0 mi n ims ; iodide of potassium 60
, ,

grai n s ; hyposulphite soda 2 0 grai n s ; distilled water 7

, ,

ounces ; aniseed water 1 70 minims ,

.

I have before recomme n ded Turkish baths fo r flesh r e

duction That advice I must qualify by explai n i n g how they
.

should be taken for there are thi n women w ho take Turkish

,

baths to fatten them a n d with success

,
.
2 02 M Y S E C RE T S OF B EAUT Y

day out of doors The more active the outdoor exercise the .

better stoppi n g this side the p oint o f exhaustion

, .

Reduce the am o unt o f food o n e hal f a n d cha nge the diet -

,

ary f rom the fat producing foods to bo n e and muscle make r s .

And in conclusion a war n i n g As the muscles diveste d

, ,
.
,

o f blanketi n g flesh seem to shri n k be sure that the skin fol , ,

lows them instead o f hanging baggily a bout them in ugly

, ,

wrinkles or creases .

To contract the Skin that surrounds the diminishe d mu s

cles bathe it frequently in cold wate r Bathe with a sponge .

dipped in cold water o r wrap the parts about with col d ,

compresses .

I f this method which is called freezi n g the muscles is , ,

not successful this astringe n t cream applied every morning

and eve n ing should be
Glycerine 5 ounces ; mutto n tallo w I pou n d ; tincture o f
, ,

benzoin 2 drams ; spirits o f camphor I d r am ; powde r e d

, ,

alum ,
dram ; o range flower water 2 ounces ; Russian isin ,

glass I dram
, .

One day not long ago a charmi n g young woman came t o

see me Her face i n dicated deep dist r ess
. .

You are looking charmi n g I assured her

”
,
.

No no madam ,
”
s he retu r ned I am looking
, ,
.

wretched dread ful I am positively ashamed o f myself

,
. .

”
But w hy " I asked .

Don t you s ee " I am over weight I am twenty seven

’
.
-
.

My height is fi ve feet three inches I weigh o n e hundred .

and Sixty fiv e pounds -

.

Your cu rv es are a bit ample I admitted , .

You know very well dear madam that I am like a pillow , ,

o f feathers I lived at a summer hotel where they had

.

really good food and behold me I c an hardly believe that ,

.

I gained thirty po unds in Six weeks What Shall I .

do " ”

“
Firs t understand that you cannot lose the flesh muc h
 SA FE W
f aster th an you gained it
A Y S O F REDUCI N G WEIG H T

. You will need at least a month

2 03

to lose the thirty p ounds .

But I must los e them madam Think o f appearing in , .

the opera like this " Thi n k o f dancing n o t only with a man , ,

but with thirty extra pou n ds What shall I do " ”

.

I repeated the litany o f re d uction " Exercise diet ah , ,

”
s ti n en c e perspiration
,
.

B ut ho w "
Exercise until you are tired an d th en d on t rest but ,
’

exercise some more Rest fro m o ne kin d o f exercise b y

.
-

”
t ry ing another .

What exercise " persiste d my too plump frien d

”
.

First a series o f exercises that force yo u t o breathe

deeply B egin as soon as you rise in the morning and by
.
, ,

the w ay rise at least an hou r earlier than usual Y o u fat

, .

ten as much by too much sleep as from t oo much foo d In .

your night robe or if you prefer it in a bathing o r gym

, ,

n as i u m suit go to the window fling it wide open and

, , ,

standing with the a rms raise d above you r hea d palms o u t ,

ward elbows straight inhale deeply an d slowly counting

, , ,

eight Hold the air while yo u count eight This gives the
. .

air a chan c e to sweep through the air cells o f the lungs ,

bathing them with its freshness Then expel the air slowly .

while you count eight Repeat this u n til a Slight dizziness

.

warns you that y ou have do n e enough .

“
Then begin the be n ding exercises With fingers ex .

tended bend slowly u ntil the fi n ger tip s reach the floo r .

Then rise slowly and raise the arms above the head D o
, .

not raise the shoulders but slowly bring the tips o f the fi n
,

gers together above the head Then gradually bend for .

war d u n til the tips o f the fingers reach the floor Then .

back and up again .

This exercise is di ffi cult especially for the sto u t B u t

, .

persist in it and it will reduce t he o v erfatness o f t he ab

domen .
2 04 MY S ECRET S O F BEAUT Y .

Y will b e tired by this time but you must not en co u r

ou ,

age the feeli n g o f drowsiness and torpor a n d disinclination

for further e ffort that creeps over you Banish all thoughts .

o f goi n g back to bed Instead begin your rolli n g . .

There is no mystery abo ut rolling It is simply .

what the name indicates Down upon the floor you .

go and roll over and over swiftly not slowly as a ,

po rpoise rolls The porpoise yo u will obs e rv e is not a

.
, ,

sle n der a n imal Roll over as a puppy ti n gling with the

.
,

j oy o f life r olls i n the dust when at play Roll quickly

, . .

Make at least eighty revolutions be fore stopping N ow you .

are ve r y tired The u naccustomed perspiration appears

.

u pon your face and body in drops That is good To r e . .

duce weight you must p erspire Most fat people have lost .

the a r t o f perspiri n g .

But you have n ot fi n ished your exercise Don t think .

’

o f b r eakfast Don t thi n k o f a nap after your strenuous

’
.

hal f hou r Get a skippi n g rope a n d go o u t o n the roo f o n

.
,

the fi r e escap e o r i n to a vacant room a n d j ump the rope

,

twe n ty fi v e tim es This the fi r st mor n ing The second

-
. .

mo r ni n g make it fifty a n d co n ti n ue i ncreasi n g the n umber

u n til a flutter at your hea r t hints that you have taken e n ough
o f this exercise fo r th e present .

Then try some new dance steps I f you have done these .

thoroughly you will have spe n t a n hou r a n d a quarter at

reductio n Go then to your bath r oom and take a shower
.
,

fi r st wa rm then cool then gradually becoming cold With

, , .

a big Turkish towel rub yoursel f thoroughly dry Come .

back i n a week a n d tell me ho w much you weigh ”

.

“
O n e hu n dred sixty one s he said
”
But that is no t
-
, .
“

e n o u ghf
’

“
It is not I answered , We must do better This . .

week after you have fi n ished your exercises indoors you

, ,

must d r ess at o n ce and go for a long w alk o r ride ”

.

But b r eakfast " ”

s he aske d faintly .
2 06 M Y S E C RET S
. O F B EAUT Y
I f the hunger fo r sweets seizes you let f r uit tablets dis
solve i n y our mouth and swallow them slowly This will .

satisfy for a time the cravi n g for sweets that is as torment

ing in its way a s the cravi n g for drink and as hard to cure ,
.

The fruit tablets are a make believe ca n dy a n d yet are so

-
,

largely fruit and water that the sugar i n them is hardly

”
a calculable quantity .

B ut I am hungry nearly all the time ; hu n gry for other

”
than sweets Hungry fo r substantials
. .

I f you insis t upon eating as much as you wish I c an

do nothing for you Y ou must leave the table with you r
.

appetite unappease d .

Drink a great d eal o f water That refreshes the body .

,

but helps to destroy the appetite fo r food Normally you .

,

should drink ten glasses a day Increase the amou n t to .

twelve o r f o u rteen With your buttermilk for breakfast

.
,

your lean meat dry toast a n d co ffee at luncheon a n d the

,

same with white wine at night you r stomach will b e satis ,

fi ed
But do y our wate r drinki n g discreetly B egin in the .

mor n i n g as soon as you rise by sippi n g two glassfuls .

Fi n ish the day by the same quantity The other should be .

drunk between meals o r at most one glass Should be d runk

, ,

a day .

Keep befo re your mind th e wor d Abstain Remem .

3

ber that you must abstain from sweets from pastries f r om , ,

milk from cauliflower potatoes lima beans cor n all the

, , , , ,

vegetables and cereals that fatten .

At the end o f the third week she came back perceptibly

lessene d ”
Eight pounds less this week she said t r i u m
.
,

h n tl My weight is now o n e hu n dred a n d forty six -

p a y . .

”
Only eleven p o unds o f the thirty remain .

”
Do yo u perspire well "

Better than I did But not freely . .

Then the pores must be educated S ome pores must go .

 S AFE WA Y S OF REDUCIN G WEIGHT 2 07

to school to learn their functio n When all else fails a .

course o f Turkish or Russian baths will do this Take them .

a t home in a cabinet or a t public baths ,

as you p refer I , .

pre fer the Russian baths because they a re moist and they
do n o t force the lungs to b rea the hot air The cabinet baths .

pe rmit an opening for the head so that while the body is

perspiring the lu n gs may be i n hali n g cool pure air , .

Take on e of these baths every morni n g Keepi n g the .

feet in hot water facilitates the per spi r ation At the e n d o f .

a week you will find that the po res will have le af fie d their
o ffice and perspiring will have become easy While you are .

taki n g the cours e o f baths you may relax somewhat f rom

the exercise O r you may take i n stead deep o r k n eading
.

massage the sort in which your masseuse s k n uckles seem

,
’

”
to reach the b o nes .

At the end o f the week my patient wrote me I canno t

call to day but rej oice with me I have lost eight pounds
-
,
.

this week Only th r ee more t o spare I am keeping t ailo rs

. .

and dressmake rs busy taki n g in my f r ocks ”

.

Th r ee days later s he appeared looking radiant It was , .

a s though a half doze n blankets that hid her beauty had been

removed Her charms had bee n hidden by too much flesh

.
,

a s the flame o f a lamp is o bscu r e d by a soiled chimney .

One thing I forget I said a n xiously scrutinizing her

”
, ,

face fo r saggi n g skin But you do not need the warning

.
”
.

No I had a facial massage every d ay to keep the skin

,

o f my face firm .

A n d the re is no sign o f a pen d ulous chin I said a d , ,

mi r i n gly .

I kept the chin fi rm by freezing the muscles into hard

n ess with cold wate r compresses and applications o f i c e ”
.

Here is how a n other you n g friend o f mi n e lost ni n eteen

pounds in five weeks W ithout i n j u ry to her health .

B efore she fairly realized that she was putting o n flesh

She found hersel f with all the symptoms o f overweight .
2 08 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
Her face was full a n d pu ffy Her cheek muscles sagged .
,

—
giving he r face the j owl like look that suggests the lower
a n imals tra n s forming beauty s face into a beastlike s em
,
’

blance and that beast not the handsomest nor most poetic
, , ,

o f the o r d er As s he surveyed her figure in the mirror

.
,

particularly i n the back it looked broad a n d coarse More

, .

over she w as co n scious o f her weight H er moveme n ts had

, .

become clumsy When we are at normal weight that is

.
, ,

when w e are o n ly so heavy as nature intende d a n d nature

W
,

abho rs o v er fl es he d women we a r e not o ppresse d by our

,

bodies We feel s o light and our minds are so capable of

.

domi n ati n g o u r bodies that we scarcely realize that e have

a n y weight That bi r dlike lightness o f body is a sure Sig n
.

that w e are at our best .

My f rie n d havi n g a lo n g s ocial season before her when

, ,

she wished to look her best resolved to trai n down ,

B ut .

how " S he adopted n o n e of the cure — alls prescribed by stout

m
wo en w e meet at Turkish baths S he did what is the .

wisest course when w e are able to adopt it went st r aight ,

t o her physician and asked his advice .

This w as W ise because her physicia n knew her co n s ti tu

tion as she knew her alphabet He k n ew which w ay lay .

peril S he must not take the bee f a n d hot water cure b e

.
,

cause she w as p redisposed to rheumatism and authorities ,

claimed a n d this physician believed that in beef there is

, ,

at least seventeen per ce n t o f uric acid The body is able

. .

to e liminate o n ly a limited amou n t of the acid a n d the intro

duction i n to it o f such excess over that amount would i n
v o lve some remai n i n g i n the system This should be .

avoided in cases o f what the physicia n s call u ric acid dia

”
thesis .

Also his patie n t was ne r vous s o he must not permit her ,

that starvation system of diet which reduced her nervous

force Not being an especially vigorous woman he was
.
,

unwilling to run any risk o f impairing her vitality .

2 10 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
only thre e or four sho r t city squares but after two weeks ,

when natu r e had become accustomed to the n e w r egime n ,

s he was able to walk four miles a day two before a n d t w o ,

afte r noon .

I f as Sometime s happe n ed she returned from her walk

, ,

faint s he w as allowed to dri n k a c u p of hot b ut ve r y weak

,

tea and if nature seemed to demand more suste n a n ce she

, ,

d r a n k t w o cups But from these cream and sugar were

.

ste r nly p r ohibited .

The results I have told you A n d my frie n d n ever looked

.

s o lovely and s he assures me s h e has never felt s o well .

There w a s n o expe n sive j ou rn ey n or stay at the baths ; n o

daily massage The loss o f those ni n etee n pounds cost he r
.

o n ly sel f de n ial the o n e fee fo r her physicia n a n d the tailor s

-
,
’

charge s fo r taki n g in all her gowns four inches about the

hips a n d two at the waist .

While w ays to grow thi n do n ot especially i n terest me I ,

ca n not help hea r i n g co n ti n ually o f them Whe r ever I go .

the co n versatio n o f the women I meet te n ds to fat All are .

i n terested b ecaus e those w ho a r e fat wish to be thi n a n d ,

those w ho are thi n fear they may become fat All woma n .

kind it would seem has orga n ized into an army o f fat

, ,

fighters .

To the baths go women w ho weigh two hu n dred pou n ds ,

a n d whe n they return from Carlsbad from Marie nbad a n d ,

elsewhe r e I pass them i n the Bois without saluti n g them ,

because i n thos e s i x weeks they have lost fifty pou n ds a n d

are thin beyo n d recogn ition It is marvelous One of th e
. .

g r eat physicians w ho crossed the Atla n tic r ece n tly to treat

a New York society leade r for obesity received for ,

his services fo r two weeks They will do much a n d pay .

greatly to r educe their flesh these rich but what of us who

, ,

are n ot wealthy "

We can choose and follo w some o f their methods o n ce
w e have learned them This is one method which a friend
.
 S AFE WAY S O F REDUCI NG WEIGH T 2 11

of mine uses to keep he r weight thi r ty fi v e pounds belo w -

what it fo r merly w as It is simple being baths three times

.
,

a week in ho t salt water I n to a n o rdi n a ry bath tub she

.

empties t wo pou n ds of table salt S he pours water i n to the .

tub until it is t w o thirds full a n d remai n s i n the tub fo r

-
,

twenty minutes After this s he rubs her body briskly down

.

with alcohol a n d retires .

Like most methods o f quick reduction this may b e c r i ti ~

c i s e d as temporarily weake n i n g Therefore while I am ac.

q u a i n t i ng y o u wit h this treatme n t for obesity I do not

‘

recomme n d it to o n e who must keep her stre n gth at its full

est A vacation o r a time wh en your tasks whether they
.
,

be business or p rofessional or social are light would be the , ,

best time for this measure for reductio n o f weight .

From the harem o f Co n sta n ti n ople through an escaped ,

i n mate comes the news that when a member of it becomes s o

,

fat that she i s a formless s ea o f flesh the overlo r d o r ders

"

that s he have bone deep massage daily with this lotio n

-

Iodide o f potassium 2 ounces ; camphor water 2 ounces ;

, ,

alcohol 2 ounces
, .

If while this deep massage a n d the hardship fo r a woman

o f the harem o f eati n g no more o f the delicious T ur kish

paste are co n ti n ui n g her face grows hagga r d a n d lines ap

pear i n it it is bathed s i x times a day with "
,

Witch hazel 1 ounce ; rosewater I ou n ce

, , .

S pecialists are always prepared to hear the complai n t

”
All their patie n ts tell them this a n d
’
I don t eat much .

all o f them believe it to be true but i n n ea r ly eve r y case it ,

is n t A few admit that they are e n o r mous feede r s but s ay

’
.
,

It is impossible for me to control my appetite A beauty .

Specialist I know laughs at this .

When you are hu n g ry between the two meals I will per

mit you to dri n k wate r he o r ders
”
Hot water o r cold
, .

as you like but dri n k it very slowly a n d never take a glass

, ,

of water unless there is the j uice o f a lemon in it I f you .

2 12 MY S ECRET S OF BEAUTY
keep the stomach filled with water you will be less hungry .

I f you feel a g n awi n g d r i n k more water .

This is the dietary per mitted by an autocrat at o n e o f

the great Europea n baths
No liquo r ; all fish except trout and salmon ; chicken ;
,

bee f ( in very small and rare portio n s preferably raw ) ; ,

eggs ; n uts ; all acid f ru its such as cranbe rr ies cher r ies , ,

peaches a n d blackber r ies ; rhuba r b ; beans ; carrots ; cabbage ;

cauliflower ; aspa r agus ; squash ; tomatoes ; onions ; lettuce ;
cele r y ; homi n y b r ow n o r rye bread ; Dutch cheese .

These a n d n othi n g more composed the food No servant .

could be b r ibed fo r a potato a n d all tu rned rou n d eyes o f

,

in n oce n t wo n der upo n you if you asked fo r a sweet cake .

B ecause the cha n ge to this diet was s o radical the docto r

did not insist upon viole n t exercise but he kept his r educi ng
,

patie n ts o u t of doors a n d encouraged them as did the P aris ,

physicia n to keep movi n g

, .

While you are reducing dep end upon a tap e measure

rather than the scales to dete r mine you r loss o f weight .

Measure your hips and waist and upper arm Fat is bulk .

maki n g but it takes a la r ge amou n t of it to weigh a pou n d

,
.

A woman my neighbor at the baths I visited had lost th r ee

, ,

i n ches about the hips a n d t w o about the waist yet had lost ,

only th r ee quarte r s of a pou n d i n weight

-
.

I f I were eve r encumbe r ed by too much flesh I should

fi r st give the rice t r eatme n t a tho r ough trial It is simple .

a n d cheap a n d has the me r it of n ot r educi n g too rapidly so ,

that the facial muscles have time to adj ust themselves to

the n ew co n ditions and the skin o f the face to als o adj ust
itself p r eve n ti n g the haggard n ess and aged look that follow
,

t o o r apid reduction .

The r ice cure c an b e explained in a paragraph a short ,

o n e even i n a line
,
It consists i n an exclusive diet of rice
.

a n d milk o r rice with a little butter a n d salt to make it

,

palatable It is a leisurely a n d for that reason healthful

.
, ,
2 14 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUT Y

season and besides the food is o f a lighter nature an d

, , ,

co n tains more acid than in winter .

One fashionable Parisien n e betook herself to her ch atea u

last month for her annual rebuildi n g and for the first th r ee
weeks lived exclusively o n grapes and Slept in an open air
chamber o n the roof o f her cou n try home S he grew clea r .

o f skin a n d lissome as a girl .

A third reason fo r utilizing summer in your re d uction

treatment is that it is the season which favo r s perspi r ation .

A n d fat flows fr o m our body o n the streams of perspi r atio n .

The latest wo r d in the matter o f obesity cures is that fat

bei n g composed chiefly o f water must be squeezed as a
spo n ge is to r id it o f the liquid with which it is satu r ated .

Whe n ever the r e is need a supply soon follows A school .

o f masseuses have adopted this theory of fat a n d have go n e

to work he r oically to p rove their theory O n e o f these .
,

w ho has go n e to you r country from S weden gives the n e w ,

massage for three hours at o n e treatme n t S he beats a n d .

p ounds a n d squeezes the flesh until it is soft as putty The .

results are amazi n g I know an actress w ho in o r der t o

.

play a vampi r e woman must needs reduce thi r ty pou n ds .

This she did last summer becomi n g sle n der a n d straight as

,

a you n g p ine tree and with n o lesseni n g o f her vitality o r

,

beauty .

In Lond o n they are j umpi n g the fat down O n ce a .

day or oftener the overweight clan j ump up and down fifty

, ,

times .

In Paris the s o called electric blanket has many advo cates

-

and frie n ds The perso n who desires to reduce her flesh

.

wraps this bla n ket about her attaches to its faste n i n gs the
,

elect r ical powe r f rom the lights i n her room a n d prese n tly ,

she is d r ipping with perspiration Completely relaxed as i n

.

a Turkish bath She lies in her o w n room o n her ow n bed , ,

a n d loses u n des ir ed ounces and pounds After twe n ty mi n

.

utes o r more s he springs from her blanket hurries to her ,

 S A F E WAY S O F RED U C I N G WEIGHT 2 15

bath room and turns o n the cold spray o r shower or takes ,

a plu nge i n a tub o f cold water This done twice a day .

, ,

has been the secret o f the va n ishing flesh o f many beauties

at Ostend w ho had the g r atificati o n o f remai n i n g i n fash
,

io nab le ce n ters a n d enj oyi n g life instead o f immuri n g them ,

selv e s at stupid baths .

These are e ffective new methods fo r general reduction .

Often however there is need only o f reducing certain por

, ,

tions o f the body that are to o redundant Ma n y w omen are .

an n oyed especially when they wear eveni n g dress by an

, ,

unbecomi n g roll o f fat lying between the should ers This .

has been removed by the simple mea n s o f patti n g it briskly

with first one hand then another a fterwards by stroki n g it
, , ,

first with o ne hand then the o ther the strokes being firm
, ,

and dow n ward o n es I t is better still t o dip the palms in

.
, ,

cold water before begi n ning this manipulation I ro n i n g .

the flesh roll with a l u mp of i c e is a n oth er method success

ful in several instances o f which I have personal knowledge .

If the chin has begu n to multiply the ice iron i n g is u seful ,

especially if the i r o n ing be followed at night by tyi n g up

the chin by a muslin o r rubber bandage that is fastened
about the head .

S ometimes the excess o f fat is in the face givi n g the ,

cou n tena n ce a gross look robbi n g it of much o f its apparent

,

intellige n ce and mu ffl i ng fi n e features i n a blanket o f supe r

,

fl u ou s flesh S uch a face has rid itself o f this i n cubus

.
,

and emerged youthful rosy a n d well proportioned becau se

, , , ,

as its owner whispered to me she n eve r retires without first ,

passi n g a small lump o f i ce over her face always with U p ,

wa r d strokes I f the touch o f the i c e is u n pleasa n t o r i f

.
,

there is i n your composition a tendency to n euralgia w r ap ,

the i c e in a thin layer o f abs o rbe nt cotton o r in a piece o f ,

gauze o r cheesecloth .

Individual t r eatment for overweight can be treated ac

cording to individual needs S tudy your nee d s and adapt .
2 16 M Y S E C RET S
. OF B E AUT Y
your knowle dge to t h em Keep in min d these f o ur princi
.

ples of flesh re d uction A ll methods d epend upon inc reased

.

perspiration lessene d q uantity o r di fferent quality of food

, ,

more vigorous exercise o r that which reacts upon certain ‘

porti o ns o f the body or greater freedom f rom clogging maf

,

t e r i als which are wastes of the body. Those bath powder s

which are adve rtised as reducing age n ts usually contain o ne
o f th e salts which ind u ce the latter re s ults
.
2 18 MY S ECRET S OF BEAUTY
must learn a lesson from her fat sister It is not t o worry . .

Almost always the fat woman is care free S he is amiable . .

S he never worries and never n ags Dia n e de P o i t er s the .

,

great Fre n ch beauty had to struggle agai n st the en c r o ach

,
a

ment o f a sea o f fat The reaso n may be found i n her

.

”“
answer to the question " Why are you s o beautiful "
Her reply w as I am beautiful because I never worry .

The thi n woma n must stop worryi n g .

The thi n w o man is a spendthrift o f vitality S he is neve r .

still when there is a cha n ce for activity It w as of such a .

woman that the sardonic bachelor says S he cuts up “

quilt pieces j ust fo r the fun o f sewi n g them together agai n .

By which the bachelor meant t o co n vey that she did needless

work The thi n woman must learn to rest
. .

The woman w ho is too slender t o please herself o r others

must look to her diet Thos e foods which her fat Sister
.

must eschew she must habitually eat .

S he too must ha v e he r daily baths a n d her massage but

, , ,

they must be radically di fferent from those take n by the

woman w ho would diminish her flesh .

S ince her greatest hop e o f i n creased flesh lies i n food I

will first discuss that He r e i s a list o f those edibles which
.

co n tai n the sta r ch or sugar o r both that are needful for , ,

the taki n g o n o f flesh

Thick soups as bisque cream of celery cream o f cor n
, , , ,

puree o f peas a n d puree o f beans ; fat beef fat mutto n hot , ,

co r n bread hot biscuits wheat cor n and buckwheat cakes

, , , ,

plenty o f butter ho n ey ; salad dressi ngs i n which the r e is

,

more o i l t ha n vi n ega r ; chocolate pastries puddi n gs bo n , , ,

bo n s ba n a n as peaches pru n es beans peas cauliflower

, , , , , , ,

asparagus potatoes rice gelatines

, , ,
.

S he should dri n k cocoa or chocolate made with milk ;

red wines if wi n es be drunk at all ; tea o r co ffee if dru n k ,

at all must be taken with cream a n d sugar S he should

,
.

dri n k more hot water than cold .

 Ho wT o GAIN F LE S H 2 19

Cold baths I do n ot recomme n d for any woman Her .

orga ni sm i s too delicate I think to successfully resist th e

, ,

shock o f a cold plu n ge or showe r but if a n y woman c an ,

withsta n d it it is the stout woman It has been claimed .

to be a considerable aid in reduction o f flesh By that .

token if by no othe r t he thin woman should avoid them

, ,
.

Her baths must be at least tepid I should advise them as .

'

warm as she can com fort ably take them For while hot .

baths are enervating a moderately warm bath is soothi n g to

ti r ed nerves a n d s o te n ds to those easeful habits which the
,

thin woman n eeds to acquire The fat woma n Should rise .

immediately f rom her bath dress a n d go about her a ff airs

, .

But it is admissible even desirable for the thi n woman to

, ,

lie d o wn for a rest o f twenty mi n utes or longer after her

bath The repose that follows a warm bath is one of the
.

best aids to gai n ing flesh .

A Turkish bath once a week may b e take n but it should ,

be t aken prude n tly o r it will lessen the flesh The thin .

woman should n ot remain in the hot room for more than

t e n minutes A fte r the scrub which follows she Should
.

not lie in blankets as I have advised fat women to do to

, ,

p romote further perspiration Instead she Sh o ul d go to a .

slightly cooler room and there take massage while her pores
a r e gaping as open hu n gry mouths to receive it Massage .

with olive o il is a fattener For each bath I recommend

.
"

Olive oil I gill ; o il o f bergamot 2 teaspoonful

,
1
, .

After massage with the o i l s he should rest fo r a hal f

hour before dressi n g T o remove the odo r a n d other u n
.

pleasant souve n irs o f the o i l rub she should powder her

body f reely with talcum before d ressing .

F o r those to who m oliv e o i l is distaste ful ther e is this

massage fo r the meager body which is much used i n France ,

and Ge rmany " Tannin 5 6 gram ; lanolin 3 0 grams ; oil

, ,

o f sweet almon d s 1 0 grams

,
.

This which I ha v e before recommen d ed for building the

,
2 20 MY S ECRET S OF BEAUTY
adipose tiss ues o f the n eck is excelle n t for the body e sp ec i
, ,

ally for the sunk en regio n s about the collarbones fo r the ,

thin layer of flesh over the ribs and for e n lar gi n g th e hip s
Co coa butter 1 00 grams ; alcohol 9 5 per ce n t 2 0 grams ;
, , .
,

essence o f rosemary 1 2 drops ; e s sence o f bergamot 1 2

, ,

drops .

S ome skin s a re ir r itated by coco a butter F or these pu r e .

,

f resh la r d could be substituted A recipe somewhat dif .

fi c ult to fill this side o f Pa r is but which has b ee n i n v alu

,

able to thi n wome n w ho des ired to b e pl u mp is this for ,

massage c r eam
S alep o f Pe r sia 1 5 grams ; powdered cocoa 60 gram s ;
, ,

glan doux d A S i e 60 g r ams ; potato starch 4 5 gr ams ; r ice

’
, ,

s ta r ch 60 gr ams ; th i n gelat i n e solutio n 2 5 0 g r ams ; va n illa

, , ,

5 ce n tigrams .

An other s i mple ple asant a n d e ffi cacious massage c r eam

,

is made from "

O live o il 2 ou n ces ; pure starch I ounce ; la n oli n I
, , ,

o u nce.

XVhile I am a w are that in Am erica the r e is a prej udi ce

a gai n st p erf u mes I ca n not share i n it S ince the days o f
,
.

the early Roman s w ell ch os e n p erfumes have added ele

gance to a toilet It is o n ly th ei r abuse which is to be
.

deplored A dain ty wo ma n n eed n ot be told that sh e must

.

use the perfume spari n gly that there should b e a hi n t n ot a

, ,

bald s tatement o f them about her B ut t here is n o qu estio n

,
.

that certa i n pe r fumes have al so a tonic medici n al e fl ect .

Ther e fore for the thin woman whose n erv e s r equi r e s ooth
i n g I recomm e n d this toilet water used by E n glish a n d ,

French wome n when t i r ed A hal f doz en drop s i n a bo wl

.

o f wate r is deliciously s oo thing and l eaves a plea s a n tly per

,

v a s i v e yet e lusive pe r fume in the room

j asm i n e water 3 ou n ces,; van illa water I % ou n ces ; ,

a cacia water 1 % oun ces ; t ube rose w ater

,
ounce ; esse n ce ,

o f amb e rgris 5 drop s ; tinctur e o f be n zoin V

, 2 dr am ,
.
2 22 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
F or dinner eat any food that appeals to you that is o f
sta r chy o r suga r y o r fatty n atu r e Avoid pickles o ra nges
.
,

a n d all acids .

I n this diet use savi n g commo n se n se D o not eat o f .

rich foods so freely that you r digestion will b e impai r ed

a n d your complexion become mottled Drive away i n s o m .

nia by dri n ki n g a glass o f wa rmed milk a c up o f cocoa o r ,

chocolate a n d eati n g a biscui t or t w o before retiri n g .

Fo r the thin woman the rule agai n st eati n g betwee n

meals applied to the fat o n e does n ot hold S he may e at .

whe n ever hu n ger moves he r for hers is a normal hu n ge r

, ,

indicati n g need o f more n utrime n t .

I thi n k it is not well to t r y to guide the natu ral g r owth

o f a young girl toward slende rn ess o r plump n ess Nature .

Should have its cha n ce to i n dicate rather st r ongly which

w ay it i n tends her to t r avel whether the road o f thin n ess
,

or fat Whe n this ha s become appa r e n t which is not

.
,

u n til after sixteen o r eightee n it is quite time to supplement

,

nature .

But for those readers whose g r owth will not b e inter

r up t e d by a n y radical cha n ges i n ma nn er o f livi n g I would ,

advise special atte n tio n t o diet Give a great deal o f i h

.

t elli g en t atte n tio n to n ou r ishi n g the body Keep i n mi n d .

always the class o f foods that fo r m flesh .

O f the ce r eals co rn wheat a n d oats belo n g i n this class

,
.

The b r ead made f r om them has the Same p r ope r ties e sp e c i ,

ally i f they a r e u sed i n thei r n at u r al u n adulte r ated state ,

.

Corn bread made f r om r ough yellow meal and spread

,

ple n tifully with butte r is o n e of the best mea n s o f addi n g

,

to the weight o f the body Potatoes if used in co nn ectio n

.
,

with eggs cheese a n d milk are important aids in that d i r ec

,

tio n .

A F r e n ch physicia n o f unusual skill prepares to fatten

his thi n patie n ts by r equi r i n g them fi r st to fast fo r a sho r t
time S ometimes h e asks that this continue fo r th r ee days
. ,
 HO W TO GA I N FLE SH 223

though in my opi n ion forty eight hours are quite enough -

.

This is to clea r the body o f all rem n ants o f former ma n ner

o f diet . This is followed i n his system by an exclusive
milk diet of th r ee more days he permitti n g the patie n t to ,

d r i n k as much as she likes but i n sisti n g on at least two ,

quarts a day d r unk very slowly ten minutes for the c o n

, ,

sumptio n of each glass almost literally eati n g rather than

, ,

d r inking it .

S hou ld the appetite rebel at the milk it may b e varie d by

an o ccasional glass o f orange j uice o r o f lemon j uice and
water half a n d hal f
,
.

The thi r d step i n this rej uve n ati n g o f the body before
begin n ing to take the flesh formi n g foods is to eat nuts a n d ,

fruit freely for a day or t w o o r longer unless y o u r appetite ,

becomes too rebellious .

When you have begu n with the flesh f orming foods ,

which I have given and which always i n clude meats con

tai n i n g conside r able fat b e ca r eful to chew them s o tho r
,

oughly that all tur n to liquid form i n your mouth be fore

swallowi n g .

I knew a woma n o n ce extremely thi n w ho always ate a

, ,

hal f doze n dates for desse r t after a full meal To this She, .

ascribed her rapid gai n i n welcome flesh

W
.

Exercise ge n tly while building flesh but d o not exercise ,

quickly nor lo n g at a time .

D r i n k ater f reely a n d during meals o n e glass Slowly

,

dru n k o f cold wate r will n ot i n te r fe r e with but r ather aid , ,

i n the digestion One of the first measu res taken by thos e

—
.

w ho wish to reduce their flesh is the opposite to avoid

drinki n g water at meals .

Rest often S lee p as much as you can taking a nap at

.
,

midday if possible Thin perso n s are nearly all wo r rie r s

. .

Fat pe r so n s as a rule do n ot worry

, ,
.

Massagi n g the body with olive o i l o r vaseli n e aids i n

flesh formation Dri n king olive o i l has the same result
. .
2 24 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
My prescription for the increase o f flesh is twofold I .

cou n sel peace o f mi n d and eati n g flesh maki n g foods -

.

Generally speaking thin perso n s are o f nervous tempera ,

ment They have a positive genius fo r worry S top

. .

worryi n g and control your nerves This can be done .

th r ough the p r actice o f common se n se and the exercise o f

you r will Train yourself alon g this line and it will amaze
.

you to see what progress you have made in a few mo n ths .

It is p o ssible not to let thi n gs a n d persons get on your

nerv es Tr y it and keep o n trying until the avoidance
.
, ,

becomes a habit .

You will be less nervous if you take more rest S leep ; .

o r if yo u ca n t sleep remain i n bed an extra hour o r two

’
, ,

if possible every night A n d if your circumsta n ces permit

, .
,

take a nap o r a hal f hour o r mo r e o f relaxation at n oon -

.

Rest a fter meals .

Aside from this nerve co n trol a n d ba n ishment o f w o r ry ,

the greatest aid in fl e s h maki n g is i n the greater quantity -

and di ffere n t quality o f food .

S cience has lately co n tributed a valuable item to the flesh

maki n g foods The pine nut know n as pign olia is o n e o f
.
, ,

the foods richest in fatty matter and in fat making i ng r e d i -

e nts . D r Harvey W Wiley the great food e xpert a n d

. .
,

a dvo cate o f the pure food law calls attention to the fact ,

that these small sleek white nuts are composed o f nearly

, ,

60 per cent o f fat and that the sugar a nd starch als o fat
.
, ,

maki n g i n gredie n ts i n them amount to 1 7 per cent o f thei r

,
.

composition They have heat maki n g p r ope r ties equali n g

.
-

those o f butter co n tai n i ng nearly four times as much nou r

,

i shme n t as lean beef This discovery I repeat hopi n g that

.
,

those perso n s to whom the idea o f eati n g pork o r fatty beef

"

will be obnoxious will fi n d a n excelle n t substitute i n this .

Butte r is a fatte n ing agent S pread bread thickly with .

this and e at f oods cooked in it i f you would g r ow flesh ,

.

But because butter and cod liv er oi l are believed to i n ter

226 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
themselves int o the belie f that it is impossible to gain w eight .

A n emine n t physician tells me he has know n people o f

middle age w ho have never varie d more tha n a fe w pou n ds
in weight for twenty years to add thi r ty fi v e pounds i n one
,
-

su mmer But this w a s accomplished not by a n y haphaza r d

.
,

luck but by a most careful persistent and i n telligent system

, ,

o f nourishment .

Most people a re accustome d t o eat about the same aver

age amou n t o f food every day a n d they are guided in the
,

amount they eat by their appetite The result is that with

.
,

about the same daily habits o f life and about the same daily
appetite a n d with about the same c o n sumpti o n o f nourish
,

me n t day after day the bodily weight continues at a fixed

,

amou n t I f o n e is worki n g extra hard the appetite may

.
,

be a little st r o n ger and the additional weight which might

,

be gai n ed is co n sumed by the extra labor which is bei n g pe r

formed Duri n g a summer vacation it ofte n happens that
.

there is a gain o f weight o f five o r eight or pe r haps te n

pounds but this is lost again as soon as the old habits o f
,

life are resumed a fter the vacation is over .

In fo rmulating a system fo r i n creasi n g weight it is n ec e s

sary to co n side r all o f the ma ny factors which may be made
to co n tribute to t he g ai n O f cou r se it must be unde r stood
,

at the very outstart that it i s n ecessa r y to i n crease the

amount o f food w e are eati n g if we are to increase weight .

It is not di fficult to understa n d that a person s w eight which

’

is maintained at an even level year after year o n a give n

qua n tity o f food is not likely to increas e u n less the quantity
,

o f food o r the quality o f the food is i n creased But it does .

not necessarily f ollow that weight will i n crease Simply by

increasi n g the amount o f food consumed Ma n y other .

facto r s e n ter i n to the problem .

It is p robably almost u n iversally tru e that w e eat ma n y

things every day which are o f little o r no value Our .
 How T O GAI N FLE S H 227

stomachs are o fte n filled with more o r less worthless food

i n stead o f thi n gs o f great food value .

The m o st impo r ta n t si n gle facto r i n gai n i n g weight is the

kind o f n ourishment that is taken .

B read meat cereals thin soups desserts cracke r s pastry

, , , , , ,

a n d most vegetables are o f v ery little value in inc r easing

weight .

Thick pea o r bean soup baked beans B oston b rown bread

, , ,

rice Welsh rarebit cheese raw eggs chocolate milk and

, , , , ,

c r eam a r e the great producers o f weight .

It is o f course ge n erally well k n ow n that rapid and co n

, ,

s i d e r ab le gai n s i n weight may be made by d r i n ki n g la r ge

quantities o f milk The flesh gained by ab n ormal c o n su mp

.

tion o f milk is likely to disappear as rapidly as it w as ac

quired a n d it is the o pinio n o f many o f the best physicia n s
that too much milk puts a dangerous strai n u pon the kid
neys .

Flesh gained through a milk diet is o f doubtful value but ,

flesh gai n ed by eating the highly nou r ishi n g foods I have

recomme n ded i s o f perma n e n t value .

I f a person is eating all his appetite demands it may b e ,

asked ho w any one is to eat a n y more O n e w ay o f c reating .

a larger appetite is to move y our meals fu r ther apart .

I f fo r any reason you are not able to get di nn er until an

, ,

hour o r more afte r your u sual di n ner time you feel a con ,

s i d e r ab ly kee n e r a ppetite and eat co n siderably more If .

you will apply this to all the hour s for your meals you will
fi n d th at you are eati n g a co n siderably larger bulk o f foo d
each day Get up e arlie r i n the mor n ing a n d have a lo n ger
.

i n terval between you r breakfast and midday meal a n d you ,

will eat p r obably te n o r fiftee n per cent more at noo n Put . .

o ff your eve n i n g meal an hour late r if possible a n d you will

, ,

fi n d that you eat a considerably heav ie r eve n ing meal than

you had been eati n g .
 228 MY S ECRET S OF B EAU T Y

The older you grow the slower are your digestive proc
esses It takes fully an hour lo n ger for a person o f forty
.

five to digest the same meal eaten by a person o f twenty .

Everybody knows how pate de foie gras which is the fat ,

and diseased liver o f a goose is produced In S trasburg , .

,

where most o f the pate de foie gras comes from the u n ,

fortunate goose is taken into a dark cellar and o n e foot is

n ailed to the floor The goose is then fed all he will eat
.
,

a n d when he has finished his meal more f ood is poked down

hi s throat with a stick The goose is i n this way stu ffed
.
, ,

with food d ay after day and i s not allowed to have fresh air
,

o r exercise The result is that his liver becomes degenerate

.
,

fat and enlarged ; and this is the way pate d e foie gras is
p roduced .

The same s o rt o f thing works i n the same w ay with the

h uman a n atomy and if you are t o stu ff you r sel f with extra
,

food a n d acquire perma n ent and v aluable flesh you must ,

thoroughly oxyge n ate your blood by fresh air and a reaso n

able amount o f moderate exercise S leep with you r win .

dow open at night a n d take a walk morni n g a n d eveni n g .

D o not run hurry or take violent exercise o f a n y kin d

‘

, .

The chief factor in gai n i n g weight is to come to your

meals with more appetite than eve r be fo re an d eat mo r e
than ever before Eat things of the highest nutritive v alue
. .

I f you are begi nn ing your dinner with thick rich pea soup , ,

try to eat two or even three helpings o f it Whatever else .

you eat help you rsel f to double the usual amount and t r y to
eat it all And when you are all through a n d thi n k you ca n
.

not eat a n y more then eat a liberal helpi n g o f cheese and

, ,
“

a fte r that dri n k a glass o r t w o of milk .

I f such a meal t axes your digestio n you may need he lp .

The chie f digestive agent o f the stomach is hyd r ochloric

acid a n d you may add power t o your digestive machi n ery
,

by taki n g a little You may at the same time stimulate the

.

other ga stric secretions with a little nux v omica Here is a .

 CHAPTER XVII

E X E R CI S E S TH A T H E LP M A " E YO U BE AU T I F U L

H ERE are exercises that reconstruct build over a n d , ,

there are exercises that dest r oy chiefly by excess I , .

am goi n g to tell you o f the first sort The seco n d may b e .

dismissed as violent exercises Violence is always a de.

stroye r o f beauty Excessive e xercise with heavy dumb

.

bells whose W eight exceed s the stre n gth of the perso n

,
.

wielding them I mention as o n e o f the worst o f these de

,

stroyers .

I have be fore said and I am glad to hav e an opportunity

,

to repeat that I disapprove o f heavy exercise for wom en

, .

Extreme physical e ffort taxes the st r e ngth and leaves its

marks upo n the c o u n tenance writi n g the heavy disfiguring
, ,

characters o f fati gue It overdevelops the muscles robbi n g

.
,

the figure of its soft delicate outline maki n g it bumpy u n

, , ,

seemly a n d masculi n e .

Exercise for women Should have three aims First s e .

,

cu r i n g as much f r esh air as is n eeded for health S eco n d .

,

as much motion and adj ustme n t o f the i n ternal o rga n s as

are needed for health Third fo r the correction o f such

.
,

habits as are threate n i n g t o the health a n d disfiguri n g to the

beauty A good eclectic system o f exercises serves all these
.

pu r poses .

A simple exe r cise that I have long used whe n I noticed

a tende n cy o f the shoulders to s ag forward is to place my
a rms behi n d me bend them at the elbows a n d thrust b e
,

tween the back and the elbows my brother s ca n e When ’

.

23 0
E XERCI S E S THAT MAKE YOU B EAUTIFUL 23 1

he rebelled o r when he a n d his precious ca n e were absent ,

I used my o w n u mbrella o r su n shade The temporary s u p .

po r t drew the shoulders fa r back a n d expa n ded the lungs

s o greatly that it became my favorit e exercise I n this .

attitude I walk about the room many times o r sta n di n g , ,

before the open wi n dow tightly close my lips and b reathe

,

deeply This I continue fo r fifteen minutes u n less my

.
,

arms grow very weary in which cas e I cease for the time
, ,

begi n ni n g agai n i n a few mi n utes when I have rested In .

all exercises I stop short o f the point o f fatigue .

F o r a sagging abdome n slow regular be n ding exercises

, ,

are best S tand with the arms raise d above the head a n d
.

the palms fo rwa rd Keep the elbows straight With a

. .

slow s weepi n g motion bend forward until the tips o f the

,

fi n gers reach the floor i n front o f you This is di fficult .

,

especially for the stout and those with muscles sti ffened
from lack of use .

When you have mastered this exercise by practise thrust , ,

the hands clasped at the fi n ge r poi n ts as far back between

the k n ees as you c an I n this way a semicircle is de
.

scribed at one sweepi n g motio n and the abdominal muscles ,

are strengthe n ed at the same time and the abdominal organs

stim ulated .

For i n active heavy back muscles the rotary tru n k motion

,

is best Be n d the body forward from the waist li n e a n d

.
,

swing the upper part o f the bo dy slowly around as though

the waist were a pivot Move the trunk slowly to the right
.

as far as it will go then to the left as far as possible S way

, .

slowly from the extreme right to left and back again bei n g ,

care ful not to wre n ch the body These last two exercise s .

are i n valuable fo r setting sluggi sh i n testines at work .

Hund r eds o f que r ies are se n t me putting i n va r ious ways

the o ne esse n tial questio n What Shall I do for a muddy
complexio n " ”
Let me a n swer all those questio n s now and
b riefly S et your sluggish liver to wo r k The exercises I
. .
232 MY S ECRET S O F BE AU T Y
have j ust described wil l aid in that mos t necessary work .

S o will walks long enough for sufficient exercise y et not ,

long enough to exhaust yo u .

I f all these togethe r with much water drinking fail to

,
-
,

correct the liver marked complexion this will be assuredly

-
,

help ful " S tanding perfectly erect raise the right arm as ,

high as you c an stretchi n g the left arm d ownward at the

,

s ame time Re v erse this motio n and alternate the two

.
, .

This air sawi n g done rapidly will bestir the laziest liver
-
, ,
.

F o r chronic indigestion I recommend walking varied by ,

r op e j umping
-
After a brisk wal k r eturn to your room
.
,

and resti n g briefly j ump the rop e from twenty t o fifty

, ,

t imes Your strength must determine the number It is

. .

better to begin with ten times a nd increase the n umber to

fi fty o r even seventy fiv e as you bec o me accus tomed to the
,
-
,

u nusual exercis e .

A favorite exercise o f mine i s the simple easy one o f ,

sitting straight S itting straight develops the habit o f poise

. .

I si t every day befor e a mirror and at sufficient distanc e ,

from it s o tha t I can see my reflection at full length I note .

whether my chest is high o r drooping I f high I know .

,

that my figure is at normal I f drooping I at once seek .

,

the cane or umbrella o f which I have spoken and take t he

s houlder and chest raising exercis e I fi rst described and ,

which I c all my uplifti n g exercise

”
.

This I vary by claspi n g my hands behind an d letting the

head rest in them as a c up while I inhale and exhale pro ,

fou n d ly movi n g the head slowly in i ts socket o f claspe d

,

h ands from one side to the other .

S winging about on my revolving dressing stool I note ,

c lo sely and critically my p rofile from brow to to e I f my .

chin tends to sag seems by the slightest tendency to sag I

, ,

lift it as high as I ca n and closi n g my teeth tightly dra w , ,

the backs o f my ha n ds alternately ac r oss it I repeat this .

e xercise fifty times unti l the chin tingles and I know t h at

,
2 34 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
For clearing clogged lungs this also deriv ed from India , ,

is useful " Inhale naturally and deeply but expel the air ,

slowly and thoroughly from betwee n the lips letti n g it ,

escape with a whistling sound Remembe r howeve r to i h .

, ,

hale th r ough the nost r ils alo n e expelling o n ly with the lips , ,

fo r while ge r ms can n ot be drawn into the system through

the nostrils the fi n e hairs which line the nose being natu r e s
,
’

sieve they swa r m from without into the o pe n mouth at the

,

slightest cha n ce That cha n ce is a fforded by the intake o f

.

air This outrush o f course bars their e n tra n ce

.
, , .

It is really o n e of the simplest things in the world to hav e

healthy lu n gs S it erect stand erect wal k erect A n d if
‘

. .
, ,

you go th r ough life sitti n g correctly sta n di n g co r rectly a n d ,

walki n g correctly you will b r eathe co r rectly a n d breathi n g

, , ,

co rr ectly you will have healthy lu n gs

, .

A n d in o r der to have a good pair o f lu n gs a wo rki n g ,

machi n e that will se r ve you well all your life begi n at ,

o n ce the you nger you a r e o f course the better ,

to build ,

up the muscles between the shoulde r blades the muscles ,

at the top o f the Shoulders and the muscles at the back o f

the n eck .

F r esh air you must have o course

f — ple n ty o f it But
, .

o f what avail the purest oxyge n i f the r e a r e districts i n that

wo n de r ful regio n i n side you r ribs where a b reath o f f r esh

ai r c an n eve r reach A n d those a r e the very spots where
.

pulmo n a r y germs like Jeshuru n i n the Bible w ax fat a n d

, ,

kick When o n e has little plague spo ts like these i n side of

.

his a n atomy fresh ai r an d exe rcise the usual p r escriptio n s

, ,

fo r Sick lu n gs a r e o f no g r eat value u n less e r ect Sitti n g

, ,

sta n di n g a n d walki n g are systematic a n d co n ti n uous habits

W
.

The n o n ly are fresh air a n d d r y su n shi n e o f avail to a ff ect

radically the germs of tube r culosis .

Begin r ight o ff n ow S traighten u p . hethe r you have .

well lu n gs o r sick lu ngs sta r t exercisi n g The results o b

,
.

tai n e d by even the simplest gy mnastics are o fte n magical ,

EXERCI S E S THAT MAKE Y O U B EAUTIFUL 235

no t o n ly as a gain in health but as a disti n ct asset o f physi

c a l beauty One of your shoulders may hang a little l owe r
.

than the ot her ; that will work much harm to a depressed

lu n g Look to it always that your shoulders are well up in
.

the air and well back Lif t up and th row back you r shoul
.

ders so that you r shoulder blades will lie flat o n the back
of your ribs with the tops o f the shoulders themselves
,

poi n ti n g directly upward Make this a habit . .

I mysel f exercis e but little The reaso n is appa r e n t I

’

. .

am o f slight physique requiri n g rathe r a foste r i n g o f the

,

vital spark than a lavish expenditure of it in the direction ,

o f muscle making .

Light gym n astics after the bath in the morni n g a n d a ,

d r ive i n the a fternoo n quite su ffice fo r me S i n ce I n ever .

grow fat there is no need o f trai n i n g down There fore the .

exercise I take is quite e n ough for my needs .

But for American women with their te n de n cy to grow ,

fat this I k n ow is not e n ough While I believe there

, , ,
.

should be o n ly enough exercise to properly to n e the body ,

yet some require much more fo r this purpose tha n others ,

a n d there i s not e n ough to n ing whe n the body g r ows fat , .

There i s no on e form o f exercise s o generally tonic t o

the system I thi n k as walki n g I f a woman b e o f the
, ,
.

bilious temperame n t with an i n clination to grow sallo w

,

and heavy eyed she needs lo nger walks than the woma n o f
-
,

sa n guine temperame n t whose blood leaps through her vei n s

,

and seems to seek escape by w ay o f the mounting blus h es

i n he r cheeks .

A woman w ho needs walking and she and her physician ,

Should be the best j udges o f whether she does may beg i n ,

by walki n g five city blocks and e n d by walki n g five or six

miles S he should i n crease the distance g r adually fo r o n e
.
,

lo n g walk may be o f b r ie f be n efit but regular long walks ,

a r e o f inestimable value It is never well to begi n suddenly

.

viole n t u n accustomed exercise

, .
236 MY S ECRET S 0F B EA U TY

The chief value o f walki n g is that it forces deep breath

ing and deep breathi n g causes a clea n si n g o f the intestines
, ,

as when a blast of cold air is introduced i n to a furnace it

burns up all the refuse that while the fire w as low clu n g to
the sides a n d back o f the grate Here is a fact that should
.

be kept h anging o n a p romine n t peg in the memory In .

ordinary instances when a pe rson rests he breathes four

,

hundred a n d eighty cubic i n ches o f air a minute This is .

much less than i s neede d fo r clea n si n g the body That is .

the reason why I oppose t o o much sleep Duri n g the sleep .

ing hours the amount of air w e breathe is much reduced .

That is the reason w hy many perso n s look at their worst

when they rise in the morning Lack o f the amou n t o f .

oxygen they take i n to the body when they are movi ng

about leaves their cheeks pale their muscles saggi n g a n d
, , ,

their eyes dim Note how much handsomer you are a n

.

hour afterward than immediatel y upon rising .

On the other hand while walking at the rate o f four miles

,

an hour which is not the maximum rate you will i n hale

, ,

five times as much air tha t is ,

cubic i n ches i n the ,

same time Have you a room or suite o f rooms contai n i n g

.
,

fou r windows " Have yo u opened one and finding that the , ,

air w as not being f reshe n ed fast e nough have you opened ,

the other three a n d noticed the instant improveme n t " That

then must be the best argument fo r walking as against d r i v
ing.

I f you form the daily walk habit see that it becomes a

daily habit Don t stay indoors because it is too hot o r
.
’
, ,

be c ause it is raining O n e should n ot take her daily walk

.

in midsummer while the s u n is highest Rise earlier a n d .

take the walk in the dewy pa r t o f the day before break

fast .

I f it is raining dress for the walk in the coquettish little

rubber boo t s that are no w fashionable a n d the short serge,
’
o r flann el walking skirt and the little Tam o S han te r o r
,
238 MY S ECRET S OF BEAUTY

not pe rmitted to form if there is a tho rough elimination by

mea n s o f walking a n d much water d r i n ki n g .

I n digestion i n its various fo r ms c an be corrected e sp ec i ,

ally i n the earlier stages by walki n g in co nn ectio n with

, ,

ca r e ful diet I n digestion is a physical faili ng especially

.
,

peculiar to women Walking by bringi n g i n to pla y unused

.
,

muscles a n d by maki ng deep b r eathi ng n e ces sa ry as a walk

’

always does relieves this co n dition Whateve r clears the

, .

i n te r nal o rga n s clears the c o mplexion Whatever n aturally .

clears the intern al o rgans brightens the eyes Whateve r .

promotes deep breathing lays in a new stock o f vigor as w e ,

fill o u r cella r s with coal in the wi n ter .

Ridi n g is good exe r cise for women if not take n i n excess ,

.

Its drawbac k i s that the side saddle forces o n e hip a n d

shoulder higher than the other I f a woma n rides She .

should by all mea n s ride astride s o obviati n g this d iffi ,

culty .

While I take my o w n mor n i n g exe r cise after the bath .

with no aid whatever dumbbells are valuable to those w ho

,

can n ot become i n terested i n freeha n d exe r cise ”

I should .

advise begi nn i n g with the smallest dumbbells made those ,

weighi ng o n e to hal f a pou n d .

Wrapped in a lightweight woolen bathrobe a n d weari n g ,

tights o r k n icke rbockers hose a n d sa n dals o r slippe r s let

, ,

her sta n d befo r e the open wi n dow while s h e ma n ipulates

the dumbbells With Shoulde r s back a n d chest throw n o u t
.

a n d head e r ect let her curl the dumbbells twe n ty times

, ,

meanwhile b reathi n g slowly and deeply i n time with the

exe r cise.

S tart with the dumbbells at the shoulders and push them

high ove r the head counting a n d b r eathing deeply twe n ty
,

times .

Rest for five mi n utes the dumb b ells sta n di n g o n the floo r
,

in f r o n t o f you B ending you r k n ees ve ry little but keep

.
,

ing you r arms straight rise to an erect position with the

, ,
24 0 MY S E C RET S O F B EAUTY
unbent above the head stretch the body to the greatest p os
, ,

sible height .

Another to gi v e suppleness to the body is to rise o n the

tiptoes then lowe r the body until the weight rests upon
,

the soles then up and down again fi fty times I have

, .

k n own persons s o in fatuated with this exercise that they

repeated it two hundred and eve n five hundred times a day ,
.

One warni n g " Neve r carry exercise beyo nd the poi n t

o f slight fatigue Never let it reach the point o f ex hau s
.

tion for exhaustion like ill n ess is a sy n o n ym for ugliness

, , ,
.

Women fa n cy that a weak back is the heritage o f their

s ex . They fancy that aches an d pains in that region are ,

i n evitable In this they a re mistaken The back may be

. .

rebuilded and strengthe n ed as can other weak spots Dis .

c r eet exercises a r e the best aid in that desirable direction .

F o r children w ho are growi n g round shouldered shoulder ,

braces a re f or a time beneficial for they train the muscles

, , ,

to erect n ess When this training has been accomplished

.

the b races should be removed and the child required to p rac

tice the carriage the brace has taught him But for a .

grow n perso n I neve r advise braces except as a last resort i n

a desperate case and particularly in cases o f lung a ff ec
,

tio n s to require the person to i n hale fresh air

, .

We ofte n receive the advice Rest your back to stop its ,

aching ”
This is sound advice i n cases of ext r eme fatigue
.
,

but generally the best way t o rest the back is to strengthe n

it and the way to st r engthen it is by well directed but n ot
, ,

violent exercises ,
.

Every muscle in the body is ther e fo r some use Every .

o n e should have e n ough exe rcise t o keep it healthy The .

muscles o f the back a r e weak because they are so seldom

used .

The best exercises for development of these neglected

muscles are those which involve stooping S poiled pam .
,

pered beauties test themsel v es by stooping and if they can ,

E XER C I S E S THAT MAKE Y O U B EAUTIFU L 24 1

touch the floor with t h eir fi nge r tips without ben d ing the ,

knees they pronounce themselves fit Women less spoiled

,
.

and pampered have far less anxiety about keeping fit .

Their everyday work requires enough stooping to keep the

muscles o f the back flexible and the muscles o f the abdomen
fi rm and o f normal size
,
.

Lifting moderate weights from the floor is a good ex e r

cise for strengthening the back I f the back be very weak .

it is well to begi n with an empty bucket AS exercises .

strengthen it gradually fill the pail A basket with a handle .

may se r ve the same purpose S to op slowl y and slowly lift .

,

the weight Keep the leg muscles tens e and make the mus
.

cles o f the arms tense Reach sl o wl y fo rward and lift the

.

weight with both hands Lift it on a level with the waist

.

line Then lower it as slowly to the floo r

. .

Next to stooping twisting the muscles o f the back is a

,

good exercise for strengthening it B ut let this twisting be .

slowly and gently do n e o r this will b e one of the instances

,

in which the remedy is worse than the disease Violent .

exercise will only make the muscles weaker a n d cause a

more severe ache and possibly a severe i n j ury by w rench
, ,

ing them .

This is the best method for the twisting L i ft the arms .

slowly above the head with the elbows unbent Then

, .

slowly turn the body to the right resting its weight on the ,

left leg S wing the body aroun d keeping the a rms above
.
,

the head but shifting the weight to the right leg This is .

a most valuable exercise for it contorts the muscle s causes

, ,

a supply of blood to flow through them and by the unusual

action they gai n strength .

The same exercise as the fo regoing can be a d vantageously

done with the arms stretch e d out horizontally be fore you ,

and swinging them in a larg e half circle being ca r eful to ,

shift the weight from one leg to the other and keeping tense
the musc l es of the legs on w h ic h the weigh t rests .
24 2 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
As a r ule round shoulders are the Sign o f weakened mu s
cles O r the appearance o f r ou n d Shoulde r s may be given
.

by a too great accumulatio n o f fat across the shoulders .

A good exercise to correct this is a simple squari n g o f the

shoulders drawing in at the same t i me lu ngs full o f air
,
.

Push back your a rms so that the forearms are on a level

with the waist an d the elbows are pushed as far back as
possible By a gentle sawi n g motion move the elbows for
.

ward a n d back This causes a rush o f blood to the mus

.

cles surrou n ding the shoulders a n d nourishes the muscles

,

which you a r e exercising a n d banishes the fat cells .

To ba n ish fat from the back draw th e arms back as I

have described Th rust between the back a n d elbows a
.

stout cane o r a broomstick Ma n ipulate the ca n e by means

.

of the elbows so that the muscles are not o n ly stre n gthe n e d

but the ca n e is rolled over the flesh The e ffect is to break
.

the fat cells .

This i s sometimes more easily do n e i f you hold the cane

in a diagonal position .

Useful t o the same end is the exercise o f sitting erect in

a chair and exagge r atedly shruggi n g the shoulders first on e , ,

the n the other then both toge ther

, .

Wo r k w ith light dumbbells will also in time reduce the

fat o f the back but I cou n sel the u s e o f light clubs and
,

these i n moderation S ta n di ng erect the feet resting flatly

.
,

o n the floo r and the knees unbending raise the dumbbells ,

s lowly above the head without be n di n g the elbows As .

slowly lower them until the arms ha n g loosely at the sides .

I f you notice that o n e shoulder is higher than the other ,

give heed to your hips The hip o n t he other side is prob

.

ably thrust u p a n d the shoulder o n that side sinks the ,

shoulde r o n the opposite side r ising to bala n ce it S o i f o n e .

shoulde r is high correct your way of standi n g S tand with

,
.

the weight eve n ly divided a n d rest o n the balls of your feet .

2 44 MY S ECRET S 0F BEAUTY

the floor will keep the hip s and abdomen in control and in ,

time diminish their size .

For this reason i f not fo r that o f neatness never lose an

, ,

opportunity i f you r fi gure has the defect I mention to stoop

, ,

to pick u p a bit o f paper o r li n t o r a scrap o f cloth from the , ,

floor .

S t 00 p from the waist D o n t resort to that trick o f the

.
’

i n dolent o r the awkward falling upon the k n ees when you ,

pick up anything S tooping I S a graceful posture L earn

. .

it
.

I f the defect in your fi gure is the other sort the broom ,

stick is still your friend But use it i n a di ffere n t way I f

. .

you have a weak narrow chest i f you a re rou nd shouldered

, , ,

you should apply yoursel f t o development in a di ffe r ent di

rection and your sweeping shoul d not be the main obj ect ,

but an incident o f your b room handle exercis e And if you

, .

are o f this habit b e sure to protect your not robust lungs

from the dust raised to s o me exte n t by sweepi n g even
, , ,

though the br oom be swathed in a damp cloth by keeping ,

your lips firmly closed Dust is nearly always disease laden

. .

While the d ry disease germs might co n ti n ue their way .

through the air without causing breedi n g o f disease the ,

dark n ess and moisture and the weakness o f your lu n gs to ,

which they find their way through the open m outh will stir ,

them into new life a n d you will be the victim Never i n .

,

any ci r cumstances i n hale through the mouth Occasion

, .

ally to r i d the body o f a n exc ess o f carbo n ic acid gas you

may safely exhale through the m o uth to still furthe r pu r ify
the body Never never take in air through the mouth
.
, ,
.

Don t allow the nose to become lazy To i n hale air is its

’
.

duty Force it to pe r form it And aid it b y keeping the

. .

nostrils free from cloggi n g substances .

The broom stick will se rv e its best purpo se fo r yo u by b e

ing Shorte n ed cut to a length o f two o r t w o and a half feet
, ,

according to the reach o f your arms Grasping the stick .

E XERCI S E S THAT MAKE YO U BEAUTI F U L 245

fi rm ly wit h a han d at either end hold it h igh ab o v e the h ead

, ,

an d draw t h e air in d eeply filling the lungs to their capac

,

ity with full draughts of air When you h a v e fi lled every .

cell o f the lungs with the fresh air hold the stick firmly
above the head count silently at least fi ve This done
,
.
,

d rop your arms slowly y o ur hands still clenching the stick

, ,

in front o f you below the waist Wh ile doing this expel

,
.

the air gently until you feel that the lungs are almos t empty
o f air .

It is not enough to say to most persons " S hallow

”
breathing is a bad habit Correct it The active human
. .

mind is an interrogation point and deman d s the courtesy and

satisfaction o f an answer .

Well then the results o f shallow breathing are these

, ,

S ensitiveness to all the conditions that cause colds and a ,

disposition to allow colds to deepen into consumption o r

widen int o pneumonia S hallow breathing makes the liv e r
.

l azy and soon the body is bile flooded the eyes becomi n g
, ,

dull and the complexion yellow an d lifeless Clogged .

stomach and intestine s are the marks o f the shallow

‘

breather for the body e n gi n e has not enough oxygen

,

d raught to burn up the fuel that has been thrown into i t

as food .

It is o nly the deep breather who enj oys life to its full
an d shows her enj oyment o f it .

I f you are not already an out o f d oor woman become one - -

at the earliest opportunity Make a b usiness o f l earning at

.

least one of the outdoor sports .

S hall it be gol f " Then yo u will h av e ch osen well for ,

gol f develops the muscles whic h are not strong in women ,

those o f the back By encouraging d eep breathing it de

.

v elo p s her chest B y causi n g her to bend consi d erably

.

from the waist it stre ngthens her abdominal muscles B e .

cause i t causes he r to walk a great deal it strengthens weak

ankles and d evelops th e muscles o f the l ow e r leg These .
246 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUTY

points remembered an d p racticed will make you a better

, ,

gol f player and will develop your health a n d stre ngt h in a

correspondi n g ratio S elect you r clubs with careful view
.

to their length a n d this will depend upon your o w n height

,

and the length o f your a rms To choose a club that is too.

long is as foolish and inj urious as it is if you are short to , ,

s i t upo n a chair so high that your feet dangle

“

Learn a good position for your strokes with wooden

clubs at the very begi nn i n g You should be erect O n e . .

leg should be straight u n der the body Its heel sh o uld be .

o n the ground the toe a little poi n ted in S lightly below

, .

the hips a n d n o t more than fou r inches from the body

should be the level o f the grip .

Because freedom o f the wrists is so v e ry important better

practice when not o n t he li n ks with a ca n e o r closed u m
brella Place the hands together and hold them quite still
.

in front o f the hips dependi n g for the motion of the stick

,

enti r ely upo n the wrists Remember that the gol f stic k
.

swi n gs on a pivot formed by the hands a n d w rists .

One o f the benefits o f gol f playi n g t o a woman is that it

teaches c o ncent r ation The eye must be kept upon the ball
.
,

no t before it is struck o r while it is leaving th e sward b u t ,

a fter it ha s le ft the ground .

I f you take up lawn ten n is play in mo d eration e specially ,

at the begi nn i n g I like ten n is for women because it i n

.

duces a fi n e flow o f p erspi r atio n that will ca r ry the clogging

po isons o u t o f the system It stimulates the circulation
.

and forces deep b reathi n g It has the fu r ther value of dis

.

tributi ng the exercise rather ge n erally througho ut the mus

cles o f the body Many women play te nn is but few play it
.
,

well A reason is that they are careless in learni n g t he

.

first principles o f the game They are liable t o grasp the

.

racket loosely a n d this spo ils thei r play Relax your grasp
,
.

an d the racket will tu r n i n the h and while y ou make y our

 CHA P TER XVII I

P O S T P ON I N G TH E D R E AD S I GN S OF O LD A G E

VERY woman is haunte d by a specter the drea d ghost

E o f o ld age At sixteen girls begin to dread it At
,

—
. .

thirty si x women s et traps fo r it At sixty they ward it .

o ff as best they may I will tell you to day what are the
.
-

marks o f old age a n d how to remove them .

Women search their faces in the mirror fo r the first faint

lines that they fear may develop i n to wri n kles The i m .

portance o f these lines they greatly exaggerate For ex .

ample there ar e even o n a baby s neck two parallel li n es

,
’

known to experts as lines o f beauty “ ”

Others have nam ed .

them the collar o f Venu s ”

Women foolishly t ry to r e
.

m ove them while the truth is that i f a woma n does not

,

have them she lacks a rec ognized Sign o f be auty a n d writes ,

herself down to all beholders as s o fat that her flesh has

’
swallowed up he r Venus s collar .

The in fallible first Sign o f age is the saggi ng cheek mus

cles These are more serious and m ore di fficult to treat
.

than wrinkles When at the merciless inspection o f her

.
,

face which every wise woman gives hersel f in the morni ng

, ,

a woman detects signs o f these saggi n g muscles she must ,

at once get to work upon them The sagging muscles i h .

d i c at e that they have grown too weak to remain in place ,

and they must be assiste d strengthened T he way to , .

s t r e ngthe n t he m is to cause freer circulation in those parts

’

that are a ff ected And the w ay to stimulate circulation is

.

to massage the surfaces where circulation is d esired .

24 8
 TH E DREAD S IG NS O F O LD AGE 2 49

B ut must be ve ry care ful about the massage B ad

one .
,

that is unintelligent massage is worse than no n e

, , .

S tudy the drooping cheek muscles and you will notice

that they are apt to sag from the cheek o v e r the edge o f
the lower j awbo n e and try to melt in an ungraceful way
,

i n to the neck This is not to be pe r mitted The j awbo n e

. .

should keep its thin fi n e edge to the e n d o f life The nearer

,
.

it is like a razor edge in sharpness the nearer yo u are

t o keeping the facial line o f youth S ome babes are born .

moon face d and moon faced remain B ut it is true never

- -
.
,

t hele s s in the large maj ority o f cases that if the lower

, ,

edge o f the j aw is o f knife like sharp n ess the woman w ho -

possesses it is young I f it b e mu ffled by flesh the woman

.

is ol d or is growing ol d .

S ince the flesh is incline d to melt down into the chin so ,

forming the double o r triple chin it i s necessary to massage ,

that s u rplus flesh S trengthen the muscles o f the true o r

.

no r mal chin thus "

With a pure massage cream give o ne stroke to the mus
cles o f the chin with the right ha n d then with the left and , ,

so alternate P ass the ha n ds f r om side to side o ne under

.
,

the other When you have made twenty such strokes g i ve

.

your atte n ti o n to the cheek muscles proper With the tips .

o f the first second an d third fingers rub slowly and gently

, ,

with a rotary motion upward a n d backward along the li n e

o f the j aw and upward to the hair line
,
Repeat this ope r a .

tion agai n and again u n til the cheek muscles and the fingers
are weary When they have rested begin again this time
.
,

with the so fter flesh above the j aw Use the first three .

fi n ge r s again a n d let the motion be backward and upwa r d

again but the pressu re should be much lighter for these
, ,

tn u scle s ha v e not the bony support o f the lower ones and ,

it is always hazardous to wo r k other than skillfully o n such

muscles Fo r instance the flesh j ust beneath the eye should
.
,

ne v er be touch e d .
250 MY S ECRET S 0F BEAUTY

Twice a day is o ft en en ough for o r din ary cas es But i n .

ext reme ca s es ten min utes fo r mas s age fou r t i mes a day is
n ot t oo o ften .

Also let the w oman whose cheek muscles are b egi nn i n g

to sag a n d w ho by the s am e token is acquiri ng a doubl e
chi n remembe r to keep up her hea d O r di n a ri ly a woma n
, .

may tu rn to the flower fo r lesso n s i n bea uty I n thi s i n .

stance sh e must loo k to the ho r se H ow much handsomer .

is the ho r s e that ca rri es his h ead high a n d how much ,

younger he looks "

Keep you r hea d up w hi le you are walki n g whil e you are

W
,

ta lki n g even wh i le you are resti ng Did you ever s e e a

,
.

b eauty eve n when i n re p os e allow her chin to s in k u p o n

, ,

her breast " N ot while she is co n sci ous No no h en .

,
.

S he is e xhausted from a lo ng wa lk o r a d ance s h e res ts th e

back of her hea d aga inst the back o f a lo u ngi ng chair but ,

her chi n i s always up always A n d th is not o nl y wh i le

,
.

s h e is awak e but whil e s h e is asleep D o n ot sleep u p on

,
.

a p i llow if you can p ossibly r est without i t O r i f you .

,

must have a pillow let it b e ve ry small A n d try to li e o n

,
.

you r back with you r chin up That is th e best positi on fo r

,
.

he al th an d beauty .

An d no w a b out an other parti c ular sign post o f age -

.

Th e r e is a s ayi n g which p e r so ns always accom p an y by po int

i ng to th e de licate lin es i n fro n t of a n d ex t en di ng belo w th e
lowe r po r ti o n of a woman s ear That is whe r e a woma n
’

fi r st shows her age ”

I n part that is true There is o n e
. .

exte n uati n g fact S ome ea r s ar e s et much closer to the

.

head th an o thers Those that are s et well ba ck an d i n d r a w

.

the ski n with a d rum like tightnes s at the b as e o f the ea r

-
.

Li nes never fo rm about ca r s so s et B ut if they gr ow well .

away from the hea d th e ski n abo ut the ea r i s loo se a n d

the lin es are su r e to come be t w een thirty an d forty I have .

see n them come abo ut th e ea rs of gi rls o f n in et een They .

t oo ca n be rem ov ed by mas sa ge U s e the t hi r d fi nger o f

.
252 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
A Sign o f age is a draggi n g gait The woman w ho wants
.

to remain young should repair the waste by more rest .

When s he is in the p rivacy o f her room she can completely

relax B ut for her in public there Should be no relaxation
. .

Let her remember the tendency to this dragging and in

public be a s truly o n parade as a soldier at guard drill .

Also in the older woman w e note bent shoulders They .

should be straightened B est o f all by massage A long

. .
,

full stroke over the shoulders with the palms o f the h ands ,

meeti n g at a point between the shoulder blades I f mas .

sage did not cure I shoul d try the shoul d er and back braces
’
sol d at pha rmacists .

But massage with pure cold cream tested and a n alyzed

,

by a chemist is the best frie n d o f the olde r as well as the

,

younger woman w ho wishes t o be b eautiful This is excel .

lent fo r o ily ski n s

O ne ounce tinctu re of benzoi n ; two drams ti n cture o f
mu sk ; four drams tincture o f ambergris ; five ou n ces r ecti
fi e d spirits ; o n e an d o n e hal f pints ora n ge flower water
-
.

This I recommend especially for delicate ski n s easily

roughene d by the wind "
Three ounces almond o il ; five d rams white w ax ; five ,

dr ams o f spe rmaceti ; o n e dram o i l o f bitter almonds ; three

ounces elder flower water ; o ne ounce witch hazel .

This a simpler cream is wholesome a n d efficacious

, ,

Four ounces a lmond oil ; four ounces rosewater ; o ne

ounc e spermaceti o ne ounce white wax .

This is an excellent preparation also f or an oily skin ‘

S ix o unces or ange flower water triple extract ; one ounce

,

d eo do ri z ed alcohol ; o ne ounce blanched bitter almonds ; one

dram white w ax ; o n e d r am spermaceti ; one dram o i l o f
benne ; twelve drops oil of be rgamot ; s i x drops o i l o f cloves ;
s i x drops o i l o f bigarade o n e quarter ounce borax
-
.

This is an excellent massage c r eam havi n g cleansing,

p roperties
 THE DREAD S IG NS O F O LD A GE 25 3

Three ounces oil o f sweet almo n ds ; two drams balsam o f

tolu ; ten drams o i l o f bitte r almonds ; two drams benzoin ;
two drops essence o f lemon ; two drops esse n ce o f caj eput .

An exquisite cream much used by those who are fastidi

,

o u s is this
,

Four ounces o il o f sweet almon d s ; s i x drams white wax

Six drams spe rmaceti two drams borax ; one ounce glyc e r
i n e ; five drops oil o f neroli ; fi fteen d r ops oil o f bigarade
( extracted from orange skin ) ; fifteen drops o i l o f petit
g r ain .

S ome women o f the old school prefer a liquid prepara

tion to a cream O n e o f these w as the beautiful Q ueen
.

Elizabeth o f Hu n gary Her complexio n w a s o n ce the toast

.

o f Europe and this when sh e had reached a ve r y adva n ced

,

age I have used this modification o f he r favorite lotion

.

for the face

One half ou n ce oil o f rosemary ; t w o d r ams o i l o f laven
-

der ; thirty g r ai n s o il o f petit grai n ; three d r ams tincture

o f tolu ; o n e—hal f pi n t ora n ge flower water ; five ounces
rectified spi r its .

Let us co n sider first the cause o f wrinkles The causes .

rather should I s ay for the sources o f wrinkles are five

, , .

They are " Age worry wea r iness the bad habit o f mak
, , ,

ing faces a n d the shrinking o f the flesh away from the skin
, .

We cannot arrest age the process of growing old but we

, ,

can conceal fo r a long time the fa ct of age I believe it is .

quite possible for a woman to s ay From this moment I

,
”
shall not appear to grow older and to achieve that end
,
.

I have known women who have seemed to stop short the

revolutio n s in the wheels o f time fo r twenty years Others .

I have k n own who by a new regimen or by cha ngi n g their ,

mental attitude toward life accustomi n g themselves to that

,

most wonderful o f all rej uvenators taking a mo re cheerful

,

view have seemed to grow five o r ten years you n ger

,
.

Age is not an inevitable creator o f wrinkles It merely .

2 54 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUTY

deepens the tracks made by o u r thoughts wearing them ,

deeper and deeper with the years as the wheels o f a wago n

cut deeper and deeper into the clay o f a count ry road It .

is to be seen then that prevention is a large part o f the t reat ~

ment o f w rinkles T o cure wrinkles first look to it that

.

you do not acquire them .

Worry is ano ther foe o f the childlike smo o thness o f ski n

that is o ne o f the most d esirable states o f beauty The o u t .

ward and v isible signs o f inward wo rry appear chiefly in

two areas in the diagonal lines extending f rom the nost r ils
,

to the lips and in the forehea d where they create what a

,

precocious child studying his mother s f ace calle d gutte r s

,
’
,

for the tears ”

These lines are interesting as i n dicators o f
.

character The woman with d eep lines about her lips has
.

g r eater determination an d passion S he has a more intense .

emotio nal nature The woman with the strongly marked

.

horizo n tal lines I n the fo reh ead is more intellectual Her .

anxieties are mental while thos e of the woman with the ,

parentheses are temperamental T o the woman with the .

ever growing deeper trace ry o n her forehead I Should s ay ,

Do n t fret
’
The woman w ith the fast deepeni n g paren
.

”
theses I advise Don t care Consid er these bits o f a d
,
’
.

vice The disti n ction is illuminative

. .

The accustomed eye sees readily the characters written

by fatigue They are rather creases than w ri n kles deep
.
,

folds in the skin as though the cove r i n g o f the muscles had

,

grown weary and limp and was resti n g f rom its task o f ,

s moothly fitting o ve r the muscles They are perhaps the .

most disfigu ri n g o f the wri n kles and the hardest to remove .

The b ad habit o f maki n g faces I shrink appalled from

my task o f preventing this o r o f cou n seling ho w to remove ,

i t s traces S ome women especially American women have

.
, ,

yielded to the ugly habit thi n king that the li n es that follow
it are the price o n e must pay for he r vivacity But they .

a re mistaken hopelessly fatally mistaken O ne o f the

, ,
.
 THE DREAD S IGN S O F OLD A GE 2 55

most vivacious faces I have k n own is that o f a beautiful

F r ench woman Her face is like a mirror b u t the eyes a n d
.
,

mouth a r e the o n ly r eflectors S he does not d r aw th e .

mouth down at o n e co rn e r o r the othe r while she talks .

S he does n ot raise her eyeb r ows u n til they th r eate n to b e

come lost in he r hair puckeri n g the ski n at the cor n e rs o f
,

the eyes as though there we r e a d r awi n g stri n g beneath

them S he does not prove her co n ce n tration upon a topic
.

o f conversation by creating deep horizontal lines in the

forehead above a n d between the eyes S he does not laugh .

s o viole n tly that the flesh breaks up i n to ripples a n d eddies

about the eyes S he makes he r glowing eyes and her smil

.

ing lips express all her thought a n d emotion S o did all .

the Fre n ch beauties o f o ld which w a s the reason that

,

Nino n L E n c lo s a n d Mme Recamier in their extreme age

’
.
, ,

had lovers a n d n o w r i n kles .

The sh r i n ki n g away o f the muscles from the skin is a

serious menace to beauty Its causes are several Pe r haps
. .

a woma n has reduced her flesh more sudde n ly tha n wisely .

Perhaps the shri n kage has been caused by a n aemia The .

conditio n dema n ds nourishme n t o f the ski n a n d o f the mus

cles beneath the ski n But this is merely a local treatment
. .

More than anythi n g else it requires a rebuildi n g and r e

j u v e n a t i o n o f the e n tire system .

K n owi n g the causes w e must avoi d them We must r e .

solve to co n ceal if w e ca nn ot sto p the agei n g process We .

must no t dare not wo rry We must never pass a ce rtain

, ,
.

poi n t of fatigue that poi n t at which w e are too ti r ed to

,

rest or sleep S uch a weariness is destructive We must

. .

n ot make faces while w e talk Whatever o u r emotions we .

must t r y to keep o u r features sere n e as those o f a mask .

Leave to the mouth a n d eyes the task of expressio n We .

must by n ourishing both skin a n d muscles prevent their

divorci n g each other .

But granted that the wri n kles have appeared what shall
2 56 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUTY

we do to remove them We must first remove the cause "

which has produced them I f t w o ugly parallel li n es are .

discer n ible betwee n the eyebrows w e must correct that habit

o f scowli n g w hose footp r ints are ugliness
,
And w e must .

avoid eye strain O ften the lines in their beginni n g can be

-
.

removed by giving u p the habit o f reading except by day

light and then o f not reading lo n g continuously
,
.

A young woman w ho a fter much travel noticed a light , ,

but omi n ou s tracery o f delicate lines o n her face said ,

Heavens " I must take the rest cure and buy cold cream ,

by the pou n d " ”

S he w as right Those first menacing .

wri n kles showed that s he ha d not prese rv ed the balance o f

vitality which assu r es perfect health S he had give n o u t .

her st r e n gth faster tha n she re n ewed it The outgo ex .

c e e d e d the inflow which is merely o ver exertion di ffere n tly

, ,

phrase d S he went to bed a n d remai n ed there fo r three

.

days In her darkened room sleep the great iro ner o u t o f

.
,

lines aided by the ge n erous and freque n t applicatio n s o f

,

cold cream removed her w ri n kles When she came fo r th

, .

from her rest cure her skin w as smooth and as delicately

flushed with pink as that o f a healthy babe .

The cold cream which she had bought by the pou n d

w a s o n e o f the best to be obtained in the market o r to b e
f r ugally made at home
S permaceti V2 ou n ce ; white w ax
,
ounce ; o i l o f sweet ,

almo n ds 2 ounces ; la n olin I ou n ce ; cocoa n ut o i l I ou n ce ;

, , ,

ti n cture of benzoi n 1 2 drops ; orange flowe r wate r I ounce

, , .

S he might have u sed as e ffectively this which has an , ,

astringent quality while the former is essentially a Skin

,

food "
Almond milk I VZ ounces ; rose water 6 o u n ces ; alum
, , ,

60 grai n s .

This relic o f the customs o f o ld Fra n ce is a n other aid in

the r emoval o f c r o w s feet o r other paths o f age ’
-

Honey 3 ounces ; isinglass 1 % ounces ; pu r e v inegar

, , ,
2 58 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUTY

First she must cultivate as a habit that poise o f the head

which is infinitely useful in removing a double chin S he .

must keep the chin a n d head tilted upward the most grace ,

ful and becomi n g poise o f the head for all women S he .

should massage the muscles with the first three fi n gers fol ,

lowi ng the muscles backward toward the li n es o f the ea r s .

For the wee wrinkles that form in fro n t o f the ears massage
with the second finger in rotary motion gently back toward
, ,

the ear .

F or obstinate wrinkles o n the forehead adhesive plaster

may be cut into strips a n d pasted across the wrinkled
surface after the skin has been drawn taut into place by the
thumb a n d forefinge r .

A home remedy is a compress o f o ld linen o r muslin

dipped into a mixture o f the white o f an egg and a gill o f
alcohol Press the loose skin back i n to place as I have
.

directed and apply the comp ress .

Dryness o f the skin will cause wri n kles To understa n d .

this study two rose leaves o n e moist and full vei n ed and
,

nourished the othe r d r yi n g a n d formi n g fine li n es The

, .

dry skin wrinkles sooner and deeper than the oily skin .

Wrinkles are chiefly fo r med by the ski n ceasi n g to fit well

over the muscles which it p rotects This may be because .

the muscles shrink o r because the ski n loses i t s firmness o r ,

both .

Try t o avoid wrinkles by keeping your face placid The .

n ervous person has more wri n kles a n d forms them ea rlier

than the o n e o f more sel f controlled n atu r e Do n t hal f
-
.
’

close you r eyes when you laugh That habit causes w r i n .

kle s .Don t let you r mouth d r oop whe n you are a n gry o r
’

troubled That carves deep li n es about you r lips making

.
,

the dreaded pa r entheses Do n t w ri n kle your b r ow when

.
’

yo u talk o r listen to p r ove,

you r ve r acity or i n terest It is .

a habit that carves transve r se li n es o n the b r ow .

When they begin to appear take more rest P lenty o f .

 THE DREAD S IGN S O F O LD AGE 2 59

Sleep is the greatest ir o ner o u t o f wri n kles Correct the bad .

habits t hat have caused them Live simply Nothi n g . .

b r i n gs w r i n kles soo n er than dissi p ation and late hours .

When small fi n e lines begi n to appear putti n g cold c r eam

, ,

well i n to the a ffected area Should help to drive them away .

Ironing that portion o f the face with small lumps o f ice

covered with cotton or gauze is a goo d remedy if you per
sist in it .

A metho d i n gene ral use in the beauty parlors o f Paris ,

a n d that has bee n i n troduced recently in this country is to ,

spray the wri n kle area with cool o r cold water I f you .

have n o t a wrinkle sp ra y a large perfume atomizer will ,

se rve the same end .

When your skin seems loose and i n clined to form into

folds use o n e o f the followi n g remedies
‘

Dip a bit o f abso rbent cotton i n to glycer i ne and pat i t

well into the wri n kle bed O r apply colog n e water i n the
.

same w ay In a short time you ca n d ecide which is the

.

better adapted to your skin Glyce r i n e while a food a n d .

,

stimulant to some Skins is a n irrita n t to othe r s

, .

A nightly bath o f the face in buttermilk sometimes tight

e n s up the loosened ski n .

This is a method much in use in Paris and Rome Hun .

dreds o f years old traced eve n to the time o f Cleopatra it

, ,

is still e ff ective it is claimed in keepi n g the cou n te n a n ce

, ,

smooth a n d youth ful Heat a Shovel red hot in the fi re

.

.
.

Throw upo n it when s o heated a ha n dful o f powdered

myrrh B e n d the face over it to receive the fumes such
.
,

fumes as can pe n etrate the napki n that has been spread

ove r the face Do this t w o o r th r ee times at the same t r eat
.

me nt Heati n g the shovel o n ce mo r e p ou r white wi n e over

.
,

it a n d still th r ough the moiste n ed n apkin which p rotects

,

the face f r om the heat o f the fire receive the fumes i n the ,

face A fo r t n ight o f two such treatme n ts given daily is

.

the recipe a woma n whose face is smooth as a gi r l s though ’

,
2 60 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
this famous Parisienne is now sixty gave me for my Ameri ,

c an readers .

A Simpler remedy is to boil a small h andful o f pearl

barley in hal f a pi n t o f wate r until it is tho roughly cooked .

Add a half dozen drops o f mecca balsam Place in a stone .

bottle and Shake thoroughly before using Bathe the face .

I n this once a day .

These astri nge n t lotions may also be applied with ben efit
Water I quart ; pearl barley 2 hand fuls Boil u n til the
, , .

barley g r ains are s o ft S train the li q uor an d add 5 0 drops

.

o f tincture o f benzoin .

Wash the face i f possible a d ozen times a day with this

, ,

Oil o f rosemary V2 ounce ; o i l o f lavender 2 drams ;

, ,

tinctu re o f tolu 4 drams ; rosewater I pi n t ; rectified spirits

, ,

o f wine I yz pi n ts ; o i l of p etit grain 3 0 drops

, , .

Believe me if the spirit remains y o u n g the flesh will age

, ,

but slowly Cont r ive to keep i n terested in perso n s a n d

.

co n ditions and circumstances Don t let yoursel f be bored .

’
.

Flee from bores or drive them f rom you .

When you are u n i n terested your face g r ows heavy and ,

opaque It loses its reflective power that mirror like qual

.
,
-

ity which is its chie f charm One o f the wisest a n d most

enchanti n g women I ever knew — truly a woman i r r e si st i
.

ble — told me she would nev er a llow any o ne to s ee her in

any but he r sun n iest mood .

Meeti n g people is maki n g pictures o f one s sel f she ’

,

said . Memory pictures that remain lo n g perhaps for

“
,

ever in their mi n ds It is difficult sometimes impossible

,
.
, ,

t o remove that memory picture They may s e e us i n other .

moods and phases but the ugly picture persists I f I am

,
.

in an u nbecoming mood I hide u n til it is past as I would , ,

”
hide did I su ffer from an infectious disease .

That is true philosophy o f charm B e interested be .

,

cheerful be at your best when you are i n public I f you

,
.

cannot be these hid e f rom the sight o f men and women

,
2 62 MY S ECRET S OF BEAUTY
I said you must look to your feet That is true If you . .

have worn shoes that give yo u a silly mincing gait buy , ,

larger ones a n d acquire a free natural spri ngi n g walk , ,

.

Do n t drag your feet about as though they a n d your body

’

had a weight you could scarcely bear Lift Your feet a n d .

walk with the fi n e spri n g a n d swi n g o f youth This too .

, ,

is a habit that c an be formed even at an adva n c ed age .

Perhaps you have had the slow heavy step o f ag e from ,

your childhood Then it i s high time to change i t

. if you
would be you n g .

S tudy the faces about you and you will s e e that some of
them are fi rm muscled full a n d o f even contour In others
,
.

you see th at the muscles are saggi n g slippi n g from place ,

.

The face is growing heavier about the chin a n d the r e is a

d rawn strained look o f the muscles about the eyes and tem
,

ples These are the fallen faces

. .

I f you s e e that the muscles o f you r face are beginni n g to

slip downward lose n o time in counte r acti n g this te n de n cy
to make the visage look older a n d heavie r Had I my .

choice between wri n kles and the regrettable fallen face I

should choose the wrinkles a s less agei n g in appea rance and
more likely to be remedied .

First reform your habits of Sleepi n g The posture i n

,
.

which w e Sleep determi n es i n to what li n es the face a n d

body fall for eight o r ni n e hours o f each twe n ty fou r — a -

third o r more o f o u r time I f cor r ect habits a r e formed

.

for that time there is an a dmirable start on the road to better

looks .

N o tice how your head rests as you fall asleep Pe r haps .

it is be n t far forward I n that case the facial muscles a r e

.

relaxed a n d their te n de n cy i s to slip dow n wa r d tuggi n g ,

their weight especially that o f the larg e chi n a n d cheek

,

muscles d r awi n g them dow n throughout the night All

,
.

muscles relax while w e are asleep That is the reaso n why .

o n rising in the morning the face looks heavy and

,
pudgy .
 W
THE DREAD S IGN S O F O LD AGE 2 63

l muscles do not recove r their tone until the habits o f

Th
e
the d ay reassert themselves .

th this knowledge you should be willi n g to make sp e

i
i al ffo r t and e n dure some i n convenience t o p reve n t this
p
c

slipp i g o f the facial muscles at night Toss away your

n .

pillow or if you a r e exceedingly uncom fortable without

, ,

one if the blood rushes to the head a n d causes yo u to be

, ,

Sleepless u s e a small flat pillow o r bette r still slip such

, , , ,

a pillo wbe n eath the head o f the mattress s o that your body
will res t at a slight i n cli n e a n d the hair a n d scalp will be
,

spared the heati n g o f the pillow Lie upon your back In . .

this posture you r chin will be thrust upward a n d the muscles

will be at tension I f you sleep thus the facial muscles will
.

not sag during the night hours .

S tudy your habits during the day an d correct such habits

as cause a falli n g o f the facial muscles Perhaps you be n d .

your head u nn ecessarily low over your work I f so avoid .

this At any rate give the chin muscles the o pposite e x e r

.
,

ci se by be n ding the head backward upon the shoulders many

times a day .

Perhaps you have formed the habit picturesquely de

s c r ibed as walki n g into your chest ”
This is an unbe
'

comi n g ma nn e r ism o f ma n y women S hyness o r self con .

-

s c i o u sn e s s o r listless n ess may be the cause i n some i n stances .

I n others it is sheer bodily lazi n ess Don t let your chin .

’

sink upon you r chest when you talk nor at any other time , .

It makes a very unpleasant impression upon the hea re r .

It gives him the idea that you are secretive or deceitful .

Lift your head when you talk and look i n to the face of the
,

person you are addressi n g H e o r she will admire you

.

more Besides it is a n other mea n s o f preventing the slip

.

pin g o f the facial muscles of keeping your face from fall

,

i ng.

We go back to n ature for i n spiration for beauty S ome .

o f the most grace ful o f the modern dancers ar e sel f taught -

2 64 MY S E C RET S 0F B EAUTY

and nature taught taking fo r models o f grace the swaying

-
,

o f the tree boughs and the lilt o f flowers in a wi n d So .

w e can go back to n ature fo r models in the poise o f the

’

head Take for an example not some ti r ed dray horse

.
,

w ho lets hi s discouraged muscles sink beneath his forelegs ,

but the inquisitive bird with head uplifted and u pturned ,

eyes seeking to solve the mystery o f the trees .

Coax the muscles o f the chin and neck into obedience .

B egin n ing at the poi n t where the muscles o f the neck meet
those o f the shoulders press firmly with the fi ngers o f both
,

hands moving the ha n ds upwa rd to the muscles of the

,

lower jaw and continuing the pressure o n the muscles b e

hi n d the ears .

Is your neck beginning to look old " I s the skin growing

flabby " Are the muscles saggi n g " IS the Skin looki n g yel
low " Is it no longer a source o f p ride an d pleasure to wear
—
a V shaped o r low cut gown
Do not despair for the agei n g neck is not an infallible
,

sign o f growing old It is o n ly o n e o f them A n d you

.
~
.

have my assura n ce that you can make it look youthful

again For p roof o f this let me point you t o the g r eat
.

s i n ging teachers yes and the great si ngers w ho are thei r

, ,

pupils Almost every o n e o f them

. indeed I c an thi n k of ,

no exception has a round white youthful looki n g th r oat , ,

-
.

One o f the most beautiful necks I ever saw white strong , , ,

gi r lish w as that o f the celebrated vocal teacher Mme Ma r

, ,
.

c he s i when s h e w as seve n ty
,
.

But while this is t r ue it i s als o true that yo u should begi n

,

giving the n eck special atte n tio n before you are thirty It .

we r e better i f you began when yo u were twe n ty fi v e -

.

First look to its ca r eful feeding Give it at least o n e

,
.

good meal a day by rubbi n g cold cream liberally i n to the

front o f the neck at night before reti r i n g .

Look very ca r efully to the poise o f the head I f the .

head be held proudly the chin u p the muscles o f the n eck

, ,
2 66 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUT Y
a n d connecting the shoulders and lift these also Raise , .

them as though it were you r purpose to place them i n the

cu r ve o f the neck This should be followed by a vigo r o u s
.

k n eading o f the muscles .

The aim o f all these massage movements is to promote

ci r culation in the neck The yellowish withered looki n g .
,
-

ski n de n otes that the blood flows weakly in that pa rt o f the

body The flabby muscles i n dicate that the muscles have
.

not been well exercised A good developing exercise fo r .

the neck is to let the head lie back as far as possible o n the
Shoulders then roll sl owly from on e shoulder t o the other
, .

The hands Should be imme r sed i n n ou r ishi n g cold cream

befo r e feedi n g the throat muscles This is a formula
”
.

for a nutritious cream

Almo n d o i l I V2 ounces ; lanolin V2 ou n ce ; spermaceti
, , ,

ou n ce ; witch hazel V2 ou n ce ; ti n cture o f benzoi n V2

, ,

d ram .

Ni n on de L E n clo s one o f the greatest beauties o f French

’

history had a beautiful neck a n d to he r is acc r edited the

’

, ,

u s e of this neck food "

Rosewater 8 o unces ; almo n d o i l 8 ou n ces ; ti n ctu r e o f

, ,

benzoi n ou n ce ; attar o f rose 5 d r ops

, , .

This will be quite as e fficacious a n d much less expe n sive

without the attar o f rose .

The following nourishes and whitens the sk i n o f the

neck "
Honey I tablespoo n ful ; lemo n j uice I teaspoon ful ;
, ,

whites o f tw o eggs ; enough bra n or almo n d meal to make

a fi n e paste .

This wash i s als o a good neck bleach particula r ly useful ,

in removi n g the dark stains or ri n gs caused by wea r i n g

the prevale n t gilt and silve r t r immi n gs about the throat "
Hyd r ochlori c acid ou n ce ; water 5 ou n ces
, , .

Avoid high tight colla r s Wear soft white Silk a n d mus

,
.

lin linings next the throat for colored collars I f it is .

 THE DREAD S IGN S O F O LD AGE 2 67

necessary to wear costumes with high collars on the street ,

cha nge them at o n ce fo r collarless gowns whe n you are at

home I f you wear chains or dog collars about the neck
.

let them be loose .

A famous theatrical ma n ager whose duty it ha d been to

select thousa n ds o f beauties fo r the choruses of his produc
tio n s a n d w ho w as a celebrated con noisseur of femi n i n e
,

beauty said that a n eck to be beautiful must look as thou g h .

it belo n ged t o the body that is to use theatrical par

“ ”
, ,

la n ce it must b e in the picture

,
A long neck o n a short
.

woma n is absurd a n d a short neck o n a tall woman makes

,

her look like a freak o f nature I f a girl is slender her .

n eck should b e slim but she should take measures to p re

,

vent i ts being scraw n y ”

If a neck is full a n d round to
.
,

co r respond with the body o f the owner it is as nature de ,

sign ed it to be A full well rounde d neck is not only

.
,

beautiful i n itsel f but it is a Sign o f abu n da n t vitality

,
.

The same theatrical manager I h ave before quoted said he

cared n ot ho w thin a neck w as i f it matched the body and
w as well covered ”
He mea n t if the outlines o f the bones
.

and si n ews were well hidde n by a delicate covering o f flesh .

Usually if the n eck is ve ry thi n the e n tire body is also and ,

measu r es should be take n to upbuild the constitution Eat .

ing nourishi n g food b reathing deeply and giving the body

,

plenty o f rest should fill o u t the hollow s in the neck as well

,

as the body .

This process c an be hastened by patting into it nightly

a n emollie n t made o f equal parts o f almond o il and vase
line Also the n eck muscles can be strengthened by plac
.

i n g upon the head n ow and then a moderate weight as a ,

book a n d walking Slowly about the room balanci n g the

, ,

book by s o steadying the head that the book will not fall .

If the neck be disproportionately fat gentle pinching b e

tween the thumb and first three fingers should re d uce its
bulk .
 W
CHAPTER X IX '

HO T O T RA I N YO UR C H I LD R E N TO BE BE AU T I F U L

T is possible to train a child to beauty and this trai n ing

I co n sists o f t w o means One is to teach the little o n e
.

habits o f perso n al dai n ti n ess The other is to imp ress upon

.

him o r her while ve r y you ng the p ri n ciples o f health , .

A third is t o cor r ect a n y defects by early attention to

them o n your ow n part if you are pare n t guardian o r ,

teacher .

Fo r instance there is the child whose beauty may be

marred by outsta n di n g ears The ea r s can be p r essed back
.

agai n st the head by a comp ress made at home a n d worn at

night A ba n dage easily made i n the house co n sists o f
.

a lo n g folded st r ip o f stro n g musli n twisted first arou n d

, ,

the head be n eath the chi n then arou n d the neck then over
, ,

t he crown o f the head the ends o f the strips o f musli n

,

bei n g drawn rather tightly over the ears and fastened to

o n e o f the lengthwise st r ips by safety pins .

I f you fi n d the child o ften breathi n g with difficulty he

probably su ffers from that growth at the back o f the nost r ils
called ade n oids Take him to a physician and have them
.

removed s o p reve n ti n g a lo n g train o f disaste r s me n tal

, ,

and physical whose signs are that strai n ed d r oopi n g coun

, ,

t e n an c e w e kno w as a n ade n oid face Do n t let a n y char ’

.

lata n try to convince you that they can b e cu r ed i n a n y

other w ay The si n gle way t o remove adenoids is by a
.

su rgical operatio n .

’
Look to the fact that the child s teeth have a good start .
2 76 MY S ECRET S OF BEAUTY

pores had been closed by the gaudy stu ff with which he

w as bedecked Bogie sto r ies a r e pe r mi s sible if they
.

frighten child r en i n to ca r e of thei r health by leavi n g thei r

windows ope n tw o o r three i n ches at n ig ht a n d by wea r i n g
their clothes loose .

D on t let the c hildren in your cha rge study to the poi n t o f

’

eyestrain Teach them to use the ears to save the eyes

. .

Let them learn by liste n i n g It was prophesied by a writer .

on health that in time the phonograph that n ow g r i n ds o u t

rag time airs to the lesse n i ng o f the standard o f popular
taste will have records which tell the classic short sto r ies
o f biography fiction a n d history Do n t allow a child to
,
.
’

ove r study B etter a well developed rosy che c ked little

.
-
,
-

o n e w ho knows n o Lati n nor higher mathematics tha n a

squinty a n aemic w ho k n ows both but w ho does n t k n ow

, ,
’

’
the w ay in the woods to the woo dchuck s hole nor how to
defe n d himself in a schoolboy fight .

Teach them to love the life in the open I f you live all .

year in the crowded city the roofs at least are available , , ,

t o you And in some part of you r home eve n thoug h

.
,

small you can put up a crude gym n asium For i n sta n ce

,
.
,

a horizo n tal bar with a mattress d r aw n u n der it for p r e

,

cautio n will give the little o n es great fun besides bei ng a

, ,

developi n g age n t .

B r eak the child r e n s unpleasa n t facial habits in the fo r m

’

i n g S how a little gi r l how ugly a n d old She looks by

.

flashing a mi rr or before he r eyes while she is f r ow n i n g .

S how her that the frown o f co n ce n t ratio n is as ugly as the

f ro w n of a nger a n d trai n her to solve a problem with smooth
b r ows I f she twists her mouth u n pleasa n tly whe n she
.

talks tell he r o f it and i f that doesn t cure her call the

, ,
’
,

mir r o r to your aid .

 CHAPTER XX

ADV I C E TO B LO N DE S A ND B RU N ETTE S

IX subj ects are o f special consideration t o the blonde .

S he must remember that her type has the most delicate

o f complexio n s To accentuate her blondness she shoul d
.

keep her hair as light as possible S he should eat such foo d .

as will e n rich her golden colori n g S he should avoid what .

ever tends to the accumulation o f fat S he should guard .

against the faded appearance that comes e a rly to most

blondes S he Should dress to emphasize her golden color
.

ing.

’
While it is true that woman s hair is her crowning glory ,

a blo n de s hair is her aureole her halo o f beauty

’

, .

Half the time a n d atte n tion she gives to her toilet should
be give n to her hair The blo n de s hair as a rule has a
.
’

, ,

golden tint This tint is the key n ote o f her beauty an d

.
,

should b e enha n ced in every possible w ay .

S he may wash her hair as ofte n as she likes with no f ear

of its fading The lighter it becomes the bette r Fo r her
. .

there n eed b e no fear o f usi n g carefully those aids in clea n s

i n g the hair ammonia borax o r washi n g soda Each o f
, ,
.

these if used o fte n tends to make the hair several shade s

lighter — but in to o large quantities it will make the hai r
, ,

brittle .

Because it does not matter how light her hair becomes ,

the blonde may wash he r hair ofte n er tha n the bru n ette
does A shampoo in borax water o n ce o r twice a week soon
.

lighte n s the hair One tablespoonful o f borax in a gallon

.

o f water is su fficient .
2 72 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUTY

T wo Shamp oos a week i n water in which ammoni a has

been sp r i n kled soon brings about a lighteni n g o f the hai r .

O n e gallo n o f water a n d hal f a wineglass o f ammo n ia is

a good propo r tion .

T w o shampoos a week in a gallon o f wa rm water with a

heapi n g tablespoo n ful o f washing soda in it is the speediest
age n t I k n ow for lightening the hair excepti n g pe roxide , ,

which some blo n des w ho do not wish to actually bleach

their hair use in small proportions in the shampo o O n e .

tablespoo n ful o f peroxide o f hydrogen in a gallon o f water

is the usual p r oportion .

Every o n e expects light hair to be flu ff y F lu ffin e s s i s .

the accompa n ime n t of golden n ess in hair and the observer ,

o f beauty is always disappointed if he sees fair hair smooth .

S mooth n ess seems to belo n g rather to dark hair The .

blonde should s o comb and brush her hair that each hai r
is disti n ct a n d separate f rom the othe r s This gives a n .

aureole like e ffect to her face and wonderfull y softens her

-
,

features .

The blonde knows that fair h air is e xpecte d to b e flu ffy .

I f it isn t she can make it so by drawing it i n to a loos e mass

’

after a shampoo a n d tyi n g it with a ribbo n letting it d ry ,

thus I f the hair is long it can be tied again by anothe r

.

ribbon close to the ends making it curve o r wave

,
.

The blonde s skin bei n g finer a n d more delicate has a

’

greater tendency to wri n kle Wri n kles come early to he r

.

because her skin is s o delicate It is like rice paper form

.
,

i ng fi n e surface wri n kles as well as deeper o n es For this .

”
reason her mott o should be Oil o i l oil , ,
.

The blonde s complexion is comparable to that o f a rose

’
.

It has a superb bloom but fades early The withered rose

,
.

petal is o n e of the most pathetic sights i n nature It is a .

da n ger sig n al to the blonde sayi n g sadly to her

,
Gua r d ,
”
well your complexion "
The blonde should remember that the d r y skin is the fore
2 74 MY S ECRET S 0F B E A UTY

me n t i n stead o f the severe treatme n t o f the old r égime

, .

Always with a view t o keepi n g a n d e n hanci n g the golde n

tints in hair a n d ski n the blo n de should be careful to eat
,

such food as will feed the pigment that p roduces the wheat
like hair a n d apple blossom skin .

I have before spoke n o f Mme de Crequy the French .

,

beauty w ho w as in ma n y respects a model to the othe r

,

beauties o f the court o f France Her biog r aphe r s said that .

Mme de Crequy had the loveliest complexion ever g r a n ted

.

to woman They said i n the n ext li n e that she ate every

.

day thirty oranges and almost nothing else .

The o r a n ge is the best frie n d o f the complexion amo n g

the fruits It clears the complexio n marvelously but it has
.
,

besides the p r operty o f holdi n g much o f the golden Shade i n

solution A blo n de whom I k n ow tried the experime n t o f
.

eati n g a half dozen ora n ges a day a n d i n creasi n g the n um

ber to a dozen daily for three mo n ths I n that time the .

change in her colo r ing w a s marvelously for the better .

He r hair which had bee n a shade too pale took on the rich
, ,

yellow o f cornsilk .

When she had quite convi n ced herself o f the fact

that ora n ges are the food of beauty and especially o f ,

blo n de beauty sh e w as advised also to eat ma n y car rots

,
.

This She did in co n nection with the ora n ges for si x mo n ths .

S he ate car r ots sliced a n d stewed i n cream S he ate them .

i n soup S he ate them mashed a n d seaso n ed slightly with

.

salt a n d pepper S he even ate them baked This she. .

began doing i n the early summer By the same time the .

next year her hair had deepe n ed th r ee shades a n d w as far

richer A n d her complexion w a s freshe r fai r e r a n d it
.
,

ha r mo n ized more pe r fectly with the golden lights i n he r

hair .

The blonde as a rule must fight the tendency to ac cu mu

, ,

late flesh The ma n w ho first w r ote fai r fat a n d fo rty

.
,

w as observant H e had registered the co n clusion that the

.
 ADVI CE TO BLO NDE S A N D BRUNETTE S 2 75

woman who is fair is at forty more than likely to be fat .

A n d so s he is Recognizing this tende n cy o f th e placid

.

n ature which is usually a n accompaniment o f fair face and

,

hai r the blo n de should begin to combat it at twenty B etter

,
.

at eightee n .

S he can preve n t her waist and hips growi n g larger by

deep massage The Japanese women never g r ow fat Ask
. .

them w hy and they Show you ho w they pinch thei r hip s to

c r ush the tissues a n d keep the hips flat .

Your fun n y American da n ce the cakewalk is a great hip

, ,

reducer That backward motio n with the face tur n ed u p

.
,

ward a n d the feet lifted p ra n ci n gly draws the tendons , ,

solidifies the muscles and makes the limbs compact .

To reduce the hips with ha n ds o n hips bend forwa r d

, ,

swayi ng the upper body in a hal f circle on a horizo n tal -

plane .

S ta n d erect and try to make the elbows meet in the back .

This is an excellent exercise to remove the superfluous fat

o r to p r eve n t superfluous fat fo rmi n g upon the back .

To make the waist small and pliant stretch the a r ms hi gh

above the head a n d be n d them forwa r d describi n g a quarter ,

circle .

To reduce the abdomen be n d forwa r d u n til the palms

,

touch the floor .

To avoid g r owi n g stoutness lie upon the back and raise

the body slowly to a Sitting posture without bendi ng the
knees .

These exercises alo n e begun ea r ly and persisted in will

, ,

keep back the tid e o f fat that comes with the years to most
blondes .

S he should guard I have said agai n st the early fadi n g

, ,

that is the blighting tende n cy o f her type It is nature s .

’

compe n satio n a reve n ge nature seems to work at the behest

,

o f the j ealous b r u n ettes that the blo n de who w a s s o ex

,

q u i s i t e i n youth should ea r ly lose the delicacy o f her skin

276 MY S ECRET S 0 F B E AUTY

and the brilliancy o f her hair But some blondes have p r e

.

vented this early fading and what some blondes have don e
,

o ther blo n des may d o The cu r e in this insta n ce is the p r e

.

v e nt i v e
. The delicate ski n that has been well fed will no t
grow dry a n d wri n kled early The blonde w ho has mad e .

carrots a n d o ranges her chie f a rticles o f d iet for many

years supplyi n g the iro n needed to reple n ish the rich gold
,

o f her hair will n ot early lose the luster o f that hair

,
.

The blo n de s critics say that she should wear gow n hat
’

, ,

shoes and gloves to match but that she should wear o n ly

,

o n e color Perhaps this is unt r ue but I have noticed that

.
,

many o f them a r e disposed to heap color upon color upo n

thei r costume s Violet a n d green a n d mauve a n d black I
.

have seen in o n e combi n ation The blonde w ho wore it .

looked cheap and commo n and the glory o f her hair w as

,

dulled by it Had she wo rn any o n e o f the colors alo n e

.
,

been a sympho ny in violet in mauve i n green o r in gold

, , ,

she would have been ravishi n g A n d the sple n dor o f her .

hair would have bee n a glo ry i n bur n ished gold But she .

di ffused her color e ffects by her stra n ge costume B londes .

Should always dress fo r thei r hair .

A rude bachelor said that blonde had come to be a

te r m o f co n tempt because there were so few n atural o n es .

S cie n tists to o say that her type is decade n t a n d will in the

, ,

course o f a few hundred centuries disappear But the .

blonde can e n j oy he rself for many ge n e r ations before that

happe n s A n d She may remember that the blonde races
.

have been the world rule r s for ma n y years .

The histo r y of the evolution o f the blonde shows that her

origi n was i n the n o r th but that she emigrated t o the south
,

and ruled the bru n ette natives S cience gravely i n forms u s

.

that the blonde flourishes i n the moistest climates This .

great racial fact may be applied to i n dividual cases Cer .

~

t ai n ly the blonde w ho wa n ts to cherish her golde n hair an d

fair ski n should not turn i n land but to the seas h ore , .
2 72
3 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUTY

cles o f the eyes ache cause eyestrain a n d eyestrain causes

, ,

i n flammation of the eye itsel f o f the linings of the eyelids

,

a n d o f the r ims of the eyelids .

Whatever i n fl ame s the li n ing o f the eyes i nfl ame s the

edges o f the lids a n d from inflamed eyelids the eyelashes
,

fall with alarmi n g swiftness .

T r immi ng the e n ds o f the eyelashes once in six weeks I

fi n d makes them grow lo nger a n d thicker I al ways have .

this done by a you n g pe r so n because a you n g pers on s hand

,
’

i s firmer a n d the r e must be n o trembli n g o f the ha n d that

,

wo r ks in the regio n o f the se n sitive eye U s e on e o f the .

ti n y brushes made for eyebrows a n d eyelashe s Use it .

eve r y mo r n i n g a n d eve n i n g B rush the eyelashes lightly

“

with a downward st r oke t o make them lo n g upward to ,

make them curly Both serve the chie f purpose i n the c u l

.

ture o f eyelashes which is to keep them clea n Y o u a r e

,
.

most careful to keep your velvet gow n f r ee f r om dust B e .

careful also o f your eyelashes which a r e more vitally i m ,

po rta n t to your beauty .

F o r bathi n g the eyes to relieve them o f inflammation a n d

s o to st r e n gthen the eyelashes u s e this preparation

Distilled water 1 pi n t ; co r n fl ow er s 3 0 g rams Crush the

, ,
.

co r n fl o w e r s i n a mortar S teep them i n the wate r for a

.

day — that is fo r twenty four hou r s S t r ai n the liquor

,
-
.

th r ough a piece o f fi n e cloth such as cheesecloth Heat in

,
.

a po r celain pan over a mode r ate fire Cool a n d tightly .

co r k Bathe the eyes night a n d mo r ni n g f r om an eyecup

.

o r with a n eyedropper .

S pa n ish women whose eyelashes have faded o ften apply

this mixture to make them darke r "
Water 3 00 gr ams ; sulphate of iron 1 0 grams ; gall nuts
, , ,

5 0 grams .

B oil the nuts i n th e water fo r a half hour S t r ai n .

through cheesecloth or musli n Add the sulphate o f iro n . .

B oil again unti l t he qua n tity of the li q uor i s reduced o n e

 A DVICE TO BLONDE S A ND BRUNETTE S 2 79

thir d Apply at the roo t o f the eyelashes bei n g careful not

’

1
.
,

to let any o f the mixture touch the eye The best mea n s .

of appl ying it i s with a sable pencil This fo rmula may also .

be used for the eyebrows .

Brush t he e yebrows night an d morning traini n g them to ,

a hi gh a rch The expression o f the face is more piquan t

.

if the eyebrows b e high .

The br unette even more than the blonde should develop

, ,

by every prope r means the brilliancy o f her eyes for while ,

the brune tte s chie f glory is her eyes that o f the blonde is
’

her hai r .

u ,
—
S he sho ld besides taking all the rest she needs even
more than she needs s o that she will be sure to have enough
use many cooli n g lotions The boracic acid water which .

I have recommended for the blonde I forbid to the brunette ,

because it often leaves a sediment which clings t o the eye

lashes and shows white as hoar frost o n the black lashes o f
the bru n ette But for her there is the re freshing eyebath o f
.

cool weak tea o r o f this applied fairly warm

, , ,

Rose water I gill ; witch hazel I gill

, , .

I f the eyes ache persiste n tly retire to a dark room lie , ,

dow n and place upo n the eyes some cool tea leaves secu r e d ,

there by the useful eye ba n dage or b an dalett e to which I

have referred in a previous chapter .

’
I f crow s feet appear prematu rely abo ut her eyes she
-

should apply lanolin patting it in thoroughly L anoli n

, .

is the base o f most o f the skin foods a n d has no equal to ,

my p r esent knowledge as a builde r o f flesh tissues , .

The blo n de s complexion fades early because her skin is

’

extr a ordinarily thin a n d fine The bru n ette s as a rule is .

’
, ,

the reverse A fine almond meal is a good substitute for

.

soap for the blonde s complexion ’

.

The brunette because her ski n is thicker and has a ten

, ,

d e ncy to a n oily a p pearance could to her be n efit u s e once ,

a day a toilet soap made as follow s

2 80 MY S E C RET S OF B E A UTY

White castile soap 3 00 grams ; spermaceti 2 0 grams ;

, ,

o xgall 1 0 grams ; honey 2 0 grams ; esse n ce o f rosema r y

, , ,

1 0 grams ; essential o i l o f oranges I 5 grams ; o i l o f lemon , ,

2 0 grams ; alcohol I 5 grams ; attar o f roses 2 drops

, , .

Melt the spe rmaceti and the shaven soap in a bain marie .

Add the other i n gredients o n e by o n e mixing th oroughly ,

after each addition Pour into molds . .

I f the brunette finds that the pure cold creams contain s o ,

much o i l and lanolin that they encourage the natural o i l in

her skin she can feed her skin with Slighter nourishment as
, ,

for instance some o f the cucumber lotions that have from

time t o time appeared in the articles I have written This .

can be prepared at home Wash and wipe carefully s i x

.

large cucumbers ; leave the rind o n and cut the cucumber

into inch square cubes Fill o ne saucepan with water and
.
,

into a small o ne place twelve ounces o f almo n d oil Drop .

the pieces o f cucumber int o the o il and heat until they reach
the boiling point When it has reached that poi n t put it
.

at the back of the stove and let it simmer for thre e o r four
hours S train through cheesecloth crushing o u t o f the e u
.
,

cumbers as much j uice as possible S tir in while it cools .

four ounces o f benzoin Keep the liquid in a j ar in a cool

.

place .

I had n ot thought there w as a brunette who did not know

that when she dabs powder o n her face in the evening s he
should cho o se n o t white but Rachel the bru n ette Shade ,

which has a tint o f yellow i n it But I have seen brunettes .

go forth to conquest with their face s o white as to make

them seem ghastly and repulsi v e .

S ome o f my blonde frie n ds in Paris were washi ng their

hair every other week in light ale They thought this was .

a tonic for the scalp a n d that it made the hair light My

,

brunette friends on the contrary use diluted claret

, ,

Claret I pint ; water I pint

, , .

They believe that this helps to keep their hair dark .

 CHA PT ER XXI

S U RE A I D S T O B EA U T Y

O giv e al l the beauty recipes I have teste d and can

perso nally recommend would require three o r four
volumes as large as this There are ma n y helpful ones
.

which I have been unable to find room for in the chapters

where they rightly belo n g S o I am going to group here
.

in this last chapter a number o f S ure Aids to Beauty ”

which I feel confident every sensible woman will be glad to

W
know .

Amo n g the recipes a n d bits o f advice which I can least

a fford to miss the opportunity o f passing o n to other women
are many which have to d o with the hair The woman .

w ho wants t o ear her hair parted but finds this ma nn er

,

unbecoming because the roots o f the hair are darker than

the e n ds will welcome this treatment
,

S ha mpoo at least once a week U s e the j uice o f two

.

lemons i n a quart o f water for the shampoo Occasio n ally .

substitute for the lemon j uice a tablespoo n ful o f ammoni a

Rub this well i n to the roots when washi n g the hair .

The best w ay to make dead brown hair rich a n d glossy

’
is to upbuild one s general health The hair and teeth are
.

fairly safe barometers o f the vitality Abundant glossy .

,

hair is usually the i n dex o f perfect health Take the to n ics .

o f ple n ty of fresh air o f exercise o u t o f doors o f simple

, , ,

n ou r ishing food a n d your hai r will share you r vigor

,
.

Much brushi n g should make it more lustrous To darken .

it some brunettes wash it in this "

282
 S URE AID S TO BEAUTY 2 83

Claret I quart sulphate o f iron %3 ounce

, , .

No o n e could ask fo r a mo r e satisfacto ry Shampoo than

the following " Water o ne cupful ; o n e egg ; ti n cture of
,

green soap 1 teaspoonful cologne 1 teaspoonful Mix

, , .

tho r oughly and rub well i n to the scalp .

A simple and harmless hair dye that has been vouche d for
by honest folk is the water in which potato pari n gs have
been boiled Walnut stain prepared in the same w ay is
.
, ,

uni n j urious Experime n t u n til you have secured the right

.

Shade B ut I would advise stimulating the hair by mass ag

.

i n g the scalp every day a n d by v 1g 0 r ou s brushing .

T o get ri d o f dandru ff without maki n g your hair either

oily o r dry first give the scalp frequent shampoos Every
,
.

other day o r even daily is not to o o fte n for a week o r t w o

, , , ,

if the case be an obstinate o n e After shampooing and on .

other nights rub carefully i n to the scalp a tablespoon ful o r

more of the following
Bay rum 2 % ounces ; olive o i l 72 ounce ; tincture o f
, ,

cantharides V2 ounce
, .

S ometimes after a serious illness like typhoid fever o n e s ’

scalp becomes v ery dry For such a condition massage well

.

into the roots every morni n g a n d eveni n g the following "

Oil of sweet almonds 4 5 grams ; essence o f rosemary 4 5
, ,

grams ; o il o f mace 2 grams , .

Brown hair that is becomi n g streaked with gray may be

darkened with henna water One handful of henna to a
.

quart o f water is the right propo rtion B oil down until .

there i s only a pint o f liquid .

The best method o f s hampooi n g the hair is in my O pinion , ,

to rub tw o o r three ha n dfuls o r as much as is n eeded , ,

through the hair a n d upo n the scalp D raw the lo n g e n ds .

o f the hair together to the top o f the scalp a n d lather well

about the neck Massage the hair well with the soap
. .

Then pou r upon the head pitcher after pitcher o f warm

water o r play upon it with the bath spray Gradually r e
, .
2 84 M Y S E C RET S 0 F B E A U T Y

duce the tempe rature o f the water until it i s cool though ,

never cold Cold water causes a shock to the scalp that is

.

detrimental to the nerv es .

I have told o f the simplest shampoo I k n ow F o r bru .

nettes w ho wish to preserve the glossy d uskiness o f their

hair this is be n eficial "
,

Rum or red wine 1 wineglassful ; yolk o f on e egg

, .

There is no arbit rary usage i n the matter o f si n geing the

ends of the hair When the e n ds are split singe them
. .

There i s no need at any other time But I have noticed that .

the need is liable to occur in my hair about once in t w o

mo n ths The singei n g shoul d always p recede the shampoo
.
,

for the odor o f burnt hair is not a desirable f ragrance .

One word more concerning the hair B e scrupulous .

about your b rushes I f necessary dip them i n to a bowlful

.

o f lather made o f white castile soap every day after the

morning brushing A hal f dozen d r ops o f ammo n ia in the

.

water will help to cleanse them Ri n se them thoroughl y.

,

s o that no particle o f the soap remai n s .

I have said that the scalp must be kept cool Brushing .

helps to preserve this co n dition I have k n own gi r ls w ho

.
,

came home tired a fte r a day at busi n ess to wrap a few bits ,

of i c e in a towel a n d place it upon the flushed an d burning

scalp feverish from a day of i nte n se mental activity This
,
.

s oon cools the scalp relieves the co n gestion in the head and
,

sends the blo od dashing back toward other centers Mas .

sage also relieves the congestion .

Avoid a dry scalp as much as you d o a hot one Indeed .

,

the dryness i s the e ff ect o f the heat This can b e corrected.

by massage Lotio n s containi n g o i l are many I f the tri

. .

weekly massage fails t o release the o il from the sebaceous

glands there may be a few applicatio n s o f this
Castor o i l 2 ounces ; alcohol ( 9 5 per
,
1 % pints ;

o il o f bergamot 10 drops , .

I f you insist on using a dye to h id e t h e approaching gray

2 86 MY S E C RET S OF BE AUTY
pucker and dry u nbecomi n gly I n stead of using powder so .

o fte n ri n se the mouth o fte n w ith stro n g salt water espe

, ,

c i ally after a meal an d b r ush the teeth w ith a b rush dippe d

W
,

i n to salt w ater o r w ith water in w hich a pi n ch o f b i c arb o n

,

ate o f soda has been dissolved .

’
hen the teeth are in fai r ly good conditio n this simple
powder is s u fficie n t "
Precip ita ted chalk 5 ounces ; powdered orris root 3 , ,

ou n ces ; camphor gum 1 ou n ce , .

This is a to n ic to teeth a n d gums

Magn esia 2 ou n ces ; powde r ed o rr is root I ounce ; b i
, ,

carbo n ate o f soda V2 ou n ce ; g r ou n d cloves 5 drams ; green

, ,

a n ise seed pow der 5 d r ams ; powdere d charcoal 4 drams

, ,
.

This is o n e o f the stro n gest o f tooth powde r s and should

be used only occasio n ally a n d i n extreme cases
Precipitate o f cha lk 3 ou n ces ; c r ushed cuttl e fish bo n e 3
, ,

oun ces ; powdere d o r r is root 2 ounces ; myr r h 2 ou n ces ; , ,

bu rn t hartshorn 2 ounces ,
.

This is a remedy fo r recedi n g gums a n d for those that ,

are sensitive a n d addicte d to bleedin g

S ugar o f mi lk 3 ou n ces ; tan n ic acid 3 d r ams ; red lake
, , ,

1 d r am ; oil of a n ise seed 8 dr ops ; oil o f mi n t 8 d r ops ; oil , ,

o f n eroli 5 d r ops
,
.

S alt w ater st r o n g a n d warm is a n excelle n t mouth bath

, ,
.

S o is bica rbo n ate o f soda i n a o n e part to three s olution .

This is the famous Eau de Botot

Alcohol 1 3 4 qua r ts ; a n ise seed 1 00 g r ams ; gr o u n d c i n
, ,

namon 3 5 g r ams ; gro u n d cloves 3 2 gr ams ; e sse n ce of mi n t

W
, , ,

2 0 gr ams ; cochi n eal 1 0 grams ; qui n qui n a 1 0 g r ams

, ,

This is a mouth wash ea sily p repared at home

ater ( filte r ed if po ssible ) I quart ; alcohol I pi n t ; , ,

salicylic acid 7% d r ams ; oil o f peppe r mint I 5 gra ins

, ,

o r a n ge flower w ater 1 5 gr ai n s , .

This myr r h lotion is o n e o f the best for the mouth "

O r a n ge flower water 5 ounces ; tinctu r e o f m y rrh , ,
 S URE AID S To BEAUTY 2 87

grams ; pulverized gum arabic 2 V3 drams ; pulverized gum ,

mastic 2 drams ; balsam o f Peru V2 dram

, ,
.

A red spot o n the white o f the eye is a sign of i n fl amma

tio n an d that indicates some strain o f the eye First r e .

move the strain Give the eyes all the rest possible S leep
. .

more than usual Give up sewing an d reading for a time

. .

Take a midday nap i f you can If not close the eyes as .

o ften as circumstances will permit for a few seconds at a

time Keep them closed while o n a train S tudy how
. .

to get the best light you can o n y our task A v oid the direct .

light u pon the eye B athe the eyes with an eyecup in a

.

mixture o f boric acid I ounce ; rose wate r 6 ounces

, , .

Keep cool bandages as cold tea leaves o r finely cracked

ice on the eyes Rest rest rest the eyes If a few weeks
.
, , ,
.

o f this care does not clear the spot from the eye consult an

oculist fo r the trouble may b e a deepseated o n e .

You cannot cha n ge the color o f your eyes but you can ,

accentuate their color by taking especial care o f your eye

brows and eyelashes s o that they will grow lo nger and
,

thicker and le n d their shadows to the eyes B rush them .

every night and morning with an eyebrow b rush to keep

them free from dust The brush may be dipped i n t o lano
.

lin at night There will be plenty o f time fo r the lanolin

.

to be absorbed by the skin duri n g the night .

S ince I advise agai n st hair dyes I can not conscientiously

advocate dyeing the eyebrows a n d eyelashes To massage .

la n olin into the eyebrows and touch the edges o f the eye
lids with the same may in time ca use the growth o f new
hair As it comes in it may be a trifle darker That is the
. .

o nly experime n t I advise .

Eyebrows that look u neven and scraggly shoul d be

treated every night with an eyebrow brush dipped in this
mixture
Olive oil 1 ounce ; tincture o f cantharides 72 d ram ; o i l o f
, ,

nutmeg ,ounce ; o il o f rosemary ounce , .

2 88 MY S ECRET S OF BEAUTY
I f by any accide n t the lids have become granular as may ,

have chanced to be the result o f excessive golf o r excessive ,

a u t o mo bili n g
-
, the wholesome gi r l does not pe r mit the dis
order to grow S he knows that rest is to some exte n t co r
.

r e ct i v e of the evil I f this does n ot quickly remove it I

.

advise seei n g a physicia n at once I ca nn ot co n scie n tiously .

recomme n d a ny lotio n for a diso r der so serious and d i s fig u r

ing A physician s advice is n ecessary
.
’

For heavy flabby soft eyelids which will wrinkle early

, , ,

i n to a prematurely aged appeara n ce the wholesome gi r l ,

seeks first the extra sleep a n d rest that are the greatest tis
s u e repai r ers . To ge n tly assist n ature i n the work o f r e
j u v e n a t i o n s h e may resort to this oi n tment
Fresh lard 1 5 0 grai n s ; sulphate of potash o f aluminum
, ,

2 5 g r ai n s ; ta n nin 1 0 grains ; borax 2 0 grai n s

, , .

I f her eyes he i n flamed and ext r a amou n t o f rest does n ot

ba n ish the u n lovely co n ditio n s he may suppleme n t the rest
with this applied from three to five d r ops — b y an eye
d r opper
Distilled water 5 0 g r ams ; qui n ce seed mucilage 5 g r ams ;
, ,

water o f cher ry laurel 3 g r ams ; bo r ax V2 gram This is

, ,
.

recommended to be used with th r ee times the qua n tity o f

water by the famous Dr V a uca i r e . .

A n othe r F r ench remedy is this compou n d "

Distilled wate r I pi n t ; sulphate o f zi n c 1 0 ce n tigrams ;
, ,

orris root powde r 1 g ram ,

.

I f on awake n i n g i n the mo rn i n g the wholesome girl who ,

is also a n i n tellige n t gi r l fi n ds that her eyelashes are e n

,

c r usted by se cr etio n s f r om the eyes s he will first softe n ,

those encrustatio n s by rose w ate r i f that be available If ,

.

n ot by warm strong salt wate r o r by equal parts o f witch

, , ,

hazel a n d water There are ma n y oi n tme n ts recomme n ded

.

for such pu r poses This is by Dr V au c ai r e an ackn o w l

. .
,

edged autho r ity o n the care o f beauty It should be applied .

after th e lids a n d lashes have been washed i n warm water .

2 90 MY S ECRET S 0F BEAUTY

band o f rubber or of stro n g muslin wor n at night will help

to support the muscles also prevent one of the habits which
,

produce sagging cheek muscles Form the habit o f holdi n g .

your head high with chin a little uptilted The application

, .

o f cloths w et in cold water makes the muscles firmer Ma n y .

pat the face with i c e Others pass the i c e over it with long
.

upward strokes from chi n t o fo r ehead The i c e should be .

wrapped in cotton o r in a piece o f muslin .

A red nose is caused usually by excessive use o f alcohol

o r by some form o f indigestion o r impe r fect circulatio n .

Looseni n g your clothi n g whe r ever it is tight whether it be ,

i n colla r s garters belts gloves o r shoes Eat plai n foods

, , , .
,

little meat a n d ma n y vegetables a n d sala d s a n d much fruit .

Dri n k water ve ry freely .

Y o u can of ten imp rove t he shape o f an ugly nose by ge n tly

pulli n g it beginni n g at the bridge between the eyes a n d
, , ,

pressi n g the cushions of the thumb a n d first finger agai n st

the Sides o f the nose a n d drawing them slowly ge n tly but , ,

with fi r m pressure to the tip Dip a so ft complexio n b r ush

,
.

i n to g r ee n soap which you probably know is a liquid a n d

, ,

sc r ub the parts a ffected by blackheads The more obsti n ate .

of them may have to be pressed ge n tly o u t with the fingers

o r a comedo n e extractor Afterward apply cold cream t o
.

heal the ski n i r ritated by the treatme n t .

F o r a n oily n ose t r y dusti n g it with this powder

B ica rbo n ate o f soda 2 ou n ces ; pulverized orris root 1
, ,

ou n ce ; pulverized spe r maceti I dram Mix thoroughly and ,

.

keep in a d r y place .

A sparing diet chiefly of fruit a n d liquids a n d copious

wate r d r i n ki n g should soo n clear the complexio n Alte r .

n ate applicatio n s of hot a n d cold cloths to the ski n help to

clea r it A pi n ch of iodide o f lime i n a glass of water i n
.
,

daily doses for a week will aid i n the body cleansi n g which
, ,

is necessary to ba n ish the tende n cy to boils A few Turkish .

baths will aid the work .

 S URE AID S T o B EAUTY 291

For blackheads I sometimes recommend scrubbi n g the

a ffected pa r ts with green soap usi n g a complexion brush
,
.

Whe n they have bee n so fte n ed p ressi n g out the blackheads

,

with the side o f a n eedl e that has been sterilized by passi n g

it through a flame o r th rough boiling water is the best a n d ,

Simplest mea n s After pressing o u t the blackheads place

.

cold cream o n the a ffected parts to heal the i rr itati o n .

I have k n own double chi n s to b e removed by bandagi n g

them pe r siste n tly i n cloths w et in w i tchhaz el which is an ,

astringent Also press the muscles upward f rom the side

.

o f the face usi n g all the strength yo u can coax int o your
,

hands .

Cocoa butte r i n itsel f does no t cause the growth o f hair ,

but friction o f rubbi n g any cream i n to the skin may cause

the growth o f hair i f o n e is i n cli n ed to such growth .

Lemon j uice should remove tan It is too stro n g to u se

.

undiluted on the face U s e an equal quantity o f wate r o r

.

o f rose water with it .

This is a good lotion for decreasing the size of open pores ,

also for checking the greasi n ess o f the face

Rose water 3 ou n ces ; elder flower water I ounce ; ti n c
, ,

ture o f benzoin ou nce ta n nic acid 5 grains

, , .

All save oily faces are impro v ed by the use of cold c ream .

But I know n o reason for usi n g a cloth in applying it The .

cloth wastes the cr eam and usi n g it will probably cause the
,

face to wrinkle Pat the c o ld cream into the face with you r
.

palms o r the cushio n s o f your fingers .

There is no unfailing remedy fo r superfluou s hair o n the

face fo r even electrolysis sometimes fails Try v arious
, .

remedies until the hair is killed Tweezers ofte n remove

.

the hair permanently Try them first pulli n g each hai r o u t

.
,

gently being sure first to sterilize the tweezers by passing

,

them through a flame or d ippi n g them i n t o boiling water .

After removi n g the hairs bathe the skin with w i tchhaz el or

pat into it a soothing cold cream Washing the skin re .
 9 2 MY S ECRET S 0F B EAU TY

p e at e d ly with equal part s o f pe r oxide o f hydrogen and wate r

weakens the hairs as well as bleaches them s o that they will
, ,

be far less co n spicuous than i f da r k .

I advise n o w oma n to u n de rtake increasi n g the size o f th e

bust without first co n sulti n g he r physician I f he thi n ks it .

wise apply w ith muslin cloths to the b r east this lotio n

La n oli n 5 0 grams ; vaseline 5 0 grams ; ti n cture o f ben
, ,

z o i n 2 0 d r ops ; iodide o f potassium r ams

, 3 g ,
.

He r e is a n excelle n t remedy fo r an oily ski n especially ,

on the n ose whe r e such a co n ditio n o fte n e n la rges the pores

,
.

It is a d ryi n g lotio n which te n ds to draw the pores togethe r

and is made like this
Ros e water 6 ounces ; eld erfl o w e r water 2 ounces ; ti n c
, ,

ture o f benzoin M ou n ce ; ta nn ic acid 1 0 g r ai n s

, ,
.

On ly ext r em e measu r es w ill r elieve an aggr avated case o f

blackheads o r acne With a flesh b r ush dipped i n to a lather
.

made o f warm water a n d white castile soap ru b the a i ,

fl i ct e d part o f the face vigorously I f the ugly black specks

.

have n ot then become loose n ed it w ill be necessary to steam

them Fill a bowl with hot w ater p r ess the face i n to the
.
,

bowl j ust avoidi n g touchi n g the face w ith the water and
, ,

cover the head a n d bowl w i t h a la r ge thick towel so that ,

the steam will n ot escape This Should b e do n e for f r o m

.

ten to twe n ty mi n utes When this bath is fi n ished the ac n e

.

will be so loose n ed that it will be possible to p ress the black

heads o u t b i t by bit usi n g a sterilized needle Afte r wa r d
, .

massage the pa r t of th e face t r eated with pure col d cream .

A famous F r e n ch skin specialist recomme n ds for acne "

S alicylic acid 5 0 g r ams ; pure lard 5 0 g r ams
, , .

Wome n w ho fear t o apply to their faces a n ythi n g which

might gr ow hair may safely use the follo w i n g cold cream " ‘

Almo n d oil 2 ou n ces ; rose water 4 ou n ces ; spe r maceti

, , ,

M ou n ce ; white w ax
M ou n ce ; ti
,
n ctu r e o f be n zoi n 2 M ,

d r ams ; eld e rfl o w er wate r 1 0 d r ops ,

.

Cocoa n ut oil is a good substitute fo r the more expensive

2 94 MY S E C RET S OF B EAUTY

without any apparent cause I have k n ow n them to be r e .

moved by applying the followi n g mixture with a ti n y

’
ca mel s hair brush "
Glyceri n e M ou n ce ; rosemary water M ounce ; carbolic
, ,

a cid 1 0 drops
, .

For a bust that is not fi rm this preparatio n is sold in ,

France
Oil o f sweet almo n ds 1 00 grams ; white w ax 5 0 g r ams ; , ,

tincture o f be n zoi n 2 5 grams ; rosewater 2 5 gr ams ; pulver

, ,

i z e d ta n n i n 1 5 grams
, .

For enlargi n g an undeveloped o r atrophied bust D r ,

.

V au c ai r e recomme n ds a fl esh maki n g diet He forbid s the -

.

application o f a n y pastes o r lotio n s t o the meager breasts ,

but p r escribes this i n te rn al remedy °

Liquid ext r act o f galega ( goat s rue ) 1 0 grams ; laco ’

phosphate o f lime 1 0 grams ; tincture o f fe nn el 1 0 grams ;

, ,

s imple sy r up 4 00 grams , .

H e advises t wo s ou p sp oo n fu ls i n water be fore each meal .

The d r i n ki n g o f malt ext r acts is recommended by some

specialists Personally I advise all exe r cises that develop
.
,

the chest for this purpose O n e o f the best is called ceil .

i n g gazing ”
With the head bent as far back as possible
.
,

sta r e steadily at the ceiling breathing deeply while cou n ti n g ,

for each i n halatio n te n for each holding of the air in the ,

lu n gs ten a n d for each exhalatio n ten

,
.

Bathi n g the face with a mild solution o f borax a n d water

will help dry any superfluous o il Relief fo r this u n p lea s .

a n t co n dition will als o be found in this lotio n

S ulphate o f zi n c 2 grains ; distilled water I ounce ; com
, ,

pou n d ti n cture o f lave n der 8 mi n i ms ,

.

This or the lotion which follows should be applied a fter

bathi n g the face a n d t w o o r th r ee times a day as co n ve n ie n t
,

Camphor water 1 pi n t ; pure glyceri n e M ou n ce ; borax

, , ,

M ounce .

Either cologne alcohol glycerine an d water o r tinctur e

, ,
 S URE AID S T o B EA U TY 295

of u
b e nzo iis a good astringent for aiding in the reduction
of a doub le chin Or you might try for the same trouble
.

the fo llo w ihg

Vaseline 100 grams ; lanolin 1 00 grams ; iodide o f p o ta s
, ,

sium 6 grams ; tincture o f benzoin I ounce

, ,
.

I advise fe eding arms that are too thin with olive o i l or

cocoa butter Both of these a r e fattening agents Patie n ce
. .

and thorough d aily applications of o n e o f these will greatl y

improve the th in a rms But the patient should try exercise .

also Holding the arms straight out at the sides a n d mov

.

i n g them rou n d and r ou n d in a circle is a good ar m de

v e lo p er .

Any o f the following creams are excellent for massage

purposes
Oil o f sweet almonds 5 00 grams ; spermaceti 5 00 grams ; , ,

white wax 1 00 g r ams ; rosewater 5 0 grams

, , .

This is especially good fo r th e neck ha n ds a n d arms ,

which are to be uncovered that night ‘

Glycerine I ounce ; rosewater I ounce ; oxide o f zinc

, , ,

1 ounce .

The o ld fashioned Nadine cream has a stro n g claim upon

-

many beauties o f many nations It is made this way .

Lanolin 4 ounces ; cocoa butter 4 ounces ; glyceri n e

, , ,

4 ou n ces ; e ld e r fl o w e r water 3 ounces ; rosewate r 5 ou n ces , , .

This valuable for its whitening as well as softening e ffect

, ,

is o f English origin
Milk o f white almonds 3 ounces ; strained honey 2 , ,

ounces ; col d cream 4 ounces ; o range flower water 5 , ,

ou n ces .

From E ngland too comes this recipe which has been

, , ,

adopted in slightly modified form by F r ance "

Essence o f cucumber 2 ounces ; j uice o f cucu mbe r s 2 , ,

ounces ; spermaceti 1 ou n ce ; white wax 1 ou n ce ; olive o i l

, , ,

1 ounce ; almond oil 1 ou n ce , .

This is a well known and valuable massage cream

-
2 96 MY S ECRET S 0F B EAUTY

Expressed o il o f almonds 9 fluid ounces ; rose water 3 , ,

fluid ou n ces ; fine sodium bo r ate 3 3 grains ; spermaceti I , ,

ou n ce avoirdupois 4 00 grai n s ; white w ax 1 ounce av o i r d u

, ,

pois 3 70 g rai n s
,
.

Fo r making the limbs plump enough to cor respond with

a well developed body tw o methods are practicable One .

is to rub olive oil i n to the ski n every night before retiri n g .

O r if you p r e fer a col d cream Developing exercises that

, , .

will e n large the muscles a r e fo r the a rms twi r li n g them i n , ,

large ci r cles at the sides a n d holding them straight from the

Shoulders For e n la r gi n g the muscles o f the legs a similar
.

exe r cise f r om the hips swi n ging the leg in large free cir , ,

cles is valuable
,
.

I am o ften asked if powder i n j ures the skin Pure rice .

powder c an do n o ha r m if r emoved at night with cold cream .

Washi n g the face with water d oes n ot s o e ff ectually remove

powder Take the po w der o ff with cold Ic r eam which
.
,

mixes bett er with it The n cleanse the face with warm .

water a n d almond meal or oatmeal or if yo u prefer it with , ,

soap .

Paris physicians also those o f the Russian court have , ,

withd r awn their obj ectio n s to perfumes a n d luxurious ,

women a r e usi n g them more than ever They are more .

discreet a n d discrimi n ati n g than formerly relying mo r e ,

upo n perfumes used afte r the bath whe n they c an be well ,

absorbed i n to the Ski n a n d causi ng them to remai n lo n ger ,

tha n by a hit o r miss applicatio n o f them upo n the hair o r

- -

clothi n g This bo r rowed from E n gland i s a delightful

.
, ,

to n ic applied to the ski n a fter the bath "

Rosemary 6 ou n ces ; orange peel gro u nd into fine powder
, ,

M ounce ; thyme M ounce ; rosewater I p i nt

, ; spirit o f ,

wine I quart , .

B ath bags fil led with equal parts o f orris root pow d er and
almo n d meal a n d bran a r e tossed into the baths instead o f
soap and are more refreshi n g a n d quite as white n i n g
,
.
2 98 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
’
Don t eat many sweets .

Don t read in a dim light

’
.

Do n t bathe in a cold room

’
.

Do n t neglect a daily outi n g

’
.

Don t read o r w r ite faci n g a light

’
.

Don t Slee p in ill ve n tilated rooms

’
-
.

Don t read when the eyes are ti r ed

’
.

Do n t read o r w r ite o n a movi n g t r ain

’
.

’
Don t open the eyes upon a bright light .

Do n t stand with the shoulders forward

’
.

Don t sta n d with the abdome n thrust out

’
.

’
Don t let your hands o r feet remain cold .

’
Don t make faces when you talk or listen .

Don t drink much wi n e The less the better

’
. .

’
Don t neglect to bathe your feet every night .

Do n t Sit o n the last three b o n es o f your spine

’
.

Don t be afraid to yawn o r st r etch when alone

’
.

’
Don t thrust the hips far backward as you walk .

Don t s i t with one shoulder higher than the other

’
.

’
Don t stand with o n e hip higher than the other .

Do n t fail to sleep as many hours as yo u require

’
.

Do n t wear t oo light weight clothi n g in winter

’
.

Do n t sleep i n a room crowded with draperies and rugs

’
.

Do n t forget to visit your dentist once every three

’

months .

Do n t let the chi n bury itsel f in the neck Keep it hi gh

’
. .

Do n t wear tight shoes o r tight gloves or tight corsets

’
.

Do n t b r ush or comb the hair roughly The scalp is

’
.

te n der .

Don t go into the oute r air di r ectly after washi n g the

’

face .

Don t be a fraid o f r ai n o r s n ow They are to n ics a n d

’
.

b eaut i fi e r s .

Don t be discontented
’
. Discontent eng raves ugly lines
in the face .
 S URE AID S TO BEAUTY 2 99

Don t fall asleep with the features drawn in a nger worry

’
,

o r fatigue .

Don t forget that the warm bath is a sedative ; the cool

’

bath a stimulant .

Don t use every new cosmetic you see advertised or hear

’

recommended .

Don t wear clothi n g so heavy that its weight drags upon

’

the vital organs .

Don t dwell upon unpleasant thi n gs D ismiss them i f

’
.

you value your beauty .

Don t allow the skin to grow dry A dry skin is the

’
.

parent o f many wri n kles .

D o n t rest upon large pillows They cause rou n o shoul

’
.

ders and double chi n s .

Don t lie dow n for rest with you r nerves and muscles
’

tied in small hard knots

, .

Don t forget that the recli n i n g posture is a storehouse o f

’

st r ength and beauty .

’
Don t let the muscles grow flabby Firm muscles giv e .

the appearance o f youth .

Don t lead a too regular life A v aried p r ogramme is

’
.

better than an u nva rying o n e .

’
Don t keep you r rooms either too hot or cold but at an ,

eve n moderate temperature

, .

’
Don t be afraid to work and to work hard It is only , .

worry mi n gled with wo r k that kills .

’
Don t allow yoursel f to become ill Every illness sub .

tracts from vitality and adds to apparent age .

Don t think that when y ou have brushed your hair your

’

duty to your head is done The scalp must be massaged . .

Don t wriggle the feet o r fingers or hu n ch the shoulde r s

’
.

Find other and less ugly outlets for you r nervous energy .

Don t moisten the lips with the to n gue to make them

’

red It will only caus e them to ro ughen and chap

. .

Don t f orget t h at t h e eye bath the nasal douche and the

’

,
36 6 MY S E C RET S OF B EAUTY

mouth bath are part of the daily ceremonial o f cleanliness .

Don t forget for o n e mome n t that health is the basis o f

’

beauty And build your beauty u pon that only sure foun
.

dation .

Don t neglect the protection for y our skin when you go

’

o u t or the care for it whe n you come in from o u t of doors .

Don t thi n k that to keep the teeth beauti ful they must
’

be continually brushed After the daily brushing remem

.

ber the mouth bath .

Don t thi n k yo u are ever t oo tire d for the nigh t toilet

’
.

The face must always b e washed and cold creamed at night

if you value you r complexio n .

D o n t especially if you are slenderl y built permit the

’
, ,

shoulders and chest to sink I f yo u a r e too tired to hol d

.

them up take a nap o r at least recline for a time

,
.
3 02 MY S ECRET S O F B E AUT Y

and lear n to apply your ow n principles o f dressing Make .

y o urself individual It costs but little to dress well if you

.

c an make your o w n clothes I f you find that your front

.

view is better face the world as it were instead o f turning

, , ,

your side to it .

I have heard o f some women Her hair grows prettily , .

When I have scrutinized their faces I have found that what

w as meant by the phrase w as that it gre w in o d d attractive ,

little ripples or scallops about the face Yet I have see n .

the same women brushi n g their hair flat a n d pressing it

back in a hard straight line from their faces These hu
, .

ma n j ewelers we r e neglecting on e o f the best a n gles o f their

perso n ality I have seen women whose rich thick hair
.
,

w a s their greatest charm d raw back the hair from their

faces a n d twist it up in a hard little knot I wanted t o cry .

o u t agai n st this thoughtlessness .

I o n ce overheard a pair talking while in the first stages

o f love maki n g on board a tra n satlantic steamer
-
The man .

“
Y o u have beautiful eyes but you don t know how
’
said , ,

to use them The next day as I saw her W hile on a deck

.

promenade I saw that he w as right S he hal f covered the m .

with heavy lazy looking lids When she looked at a n y one

, .

with them she looked with a Slow steady regard and with ,

o u t a smile in them I f I had had eyes like that I should

.

have bee n most in d ustrious with them I would have .

opened them very wide very often every day It would , .

have illuminated conversati o n and promoted mutual u n der ,

standing And I w o uld have taught them the pleasant

.

trick o f smiling .

I know a woman o f whom it has often been said " S he

is handsome whe n s he smiles but she hardly ever smiles
”
, ,

a n d this should have been en o ugh o f a tip as you say in ,

America Yet it wasn t Whe n ever I saw her her lips

.
’
.

drooped Her cheeks muscles relaxed I f anything

. .

startled her o ut o f herself she smile d q uickly roguishly , , ,

 THE BEAUTY ’
S PER S O NALITY 3 3
0

with a flash of intelligence and good humor that was e nt ran c

i n g Her smile transformed her f rom a plai n dej ected
. ,

looking woman to a radia n t attractive o ne ten years younger ,

i n appeara n ce than she had looked a second before I f she .

had polished her personality She would be always living up

to that smile .

I know another woman more intelligen t though younger .

S he has lovely red gol d hair At a time when it w a s

, ,

-
.
,

fashionable to wear hats that come low upon the face com ,

p l e t ely hiding the hair I sai d t o her " And do you

, hide
”
your beautiful hair beneath the foolish fashions "
”
No she answered
, S omehow I always manage to .
,

show s om e o f it P erhaps I d raw it back fr om the fore

.

head a little more than the fashion requires O r I may tilt .

,

it a little more to the side than is necessary But I always .

show my hair P olishing her personality you s ee

.
, .

I f a woman h as a beautiful mouth she should be at more

pains than anoth er to massage the lips to keep the m full
and moist S he s h ould massage the gums to keep them
.

strong and re d An d o f her teeth she should take infi n ite

.

care S uch a woman should smile and smile again fo r fine

.
,

teeth and a fresh sweet mouth are always attractive

,
.

I f she has a classic chin a n d a fine throat She should keep

the chin well up to reveal the line from chin to chest .

I f her hands are pretty she shoul d wear her sleeves short
enough to display them I f her hands are shapely a n d .

tapering she shoul d wear he r sleeves still shorter .

I f the lines o f her throat a n d sh o ulder are good she

Should form the Dutch collar a n d low necked habit I f her .

figu re is good she sh oul d emphasiz e that within the limits o f

modesty .

In short make radiant your personality Discover your .

best poi n ts and keep p r eserv e and acce n t them To use

, .

“
y our plain Americanism Keep your best foot for
ward .
3 4
6 MY S ECRET S OF BEAUT Y

Fashions change but taste endures F ashions co me and

, .

go but becomingness is a fixed qua n tity

,
.

The woman w ho is wise in her o w n beauty will make this

her c reed S he will determine after much obse r vatio n o f
.

hersel f what is becomi n g to her and what is n ot n ever to ,

cross the danger line between .

S he will not aggressively d e fy fashio n S he will adopt .

its bec o ming modes and adapt its u n becoming o n es to the

,

point o n ly o f becomi ngn ess But s he will resolutely deter

.

mine that she will wear nothi ng that will detract from her
beauty .

In the matter of dress I have the courage o f my co nv i c

,

tions I will n o t wear that which I believe to be unbeco m

.

i n g to me S ometimes I may fa n cy I look well in what an

.

othe r may not admire as a part o f Cavalieri In that I may .

be mistaken But I ne v er consciously wear what makes me

.

look less well than I would otherwise .

For insta n ce you will obser v e from my photographs that

,

I almost n ever cha n ge the style o f weari n g my hair Lo n g .

ago I fou n d th at flat waves drawn low upon my brow a n d

cheeks were bec o ming to me In itsel f the style is a .

trying o n e but it happe n s t o be becomi n g to my type o f

,

face The Italian women are almost the o n ly nation that

.

c an wear it t o adva n tage It seems to belong to the .

large soft e yes straight nose and delicate chin o f the race
, ,
.

And so through t he succeedi n g years I have wo rn them ,

and because I looked well i n them have w o rn them in the

mor n i n g in the a ftern o on and in the eve n i n g have worn
, ,

them to early musicales to lu n cheo n s to teas for dr ives

, , ,

a n d the opera I have varied the style o n ly when the times

.

o r character I was playing in opera dema n ded that they be

changed .

It is my opinion that the w oman who discovers the style

o f hair dressing that is adapted to her indiv idual style and
3 6 6 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUTY

comb the rest o f the hair but loosely from about it N ever
, , .

tightly for that will give the drawn frightened look which
, ,

nature has already carelessly bestowed .

I f your face be broa d the high coi ffure i n creases its ap

,

parent length .

I f yours b e a slen d er countenance then a ffect the low ,

coi ff ure for its tendency is towa r d breadth

, .

I f the face b e broad do not buil d the hair ou t loosely

,

about the ears Instead comb it upward above the car s

. .

I f the face be slender its appare n t breadth is added to

,

by the fl u ffi ng o ut of the hair about the c ar s .

I f the face is angular its hardness is re d uced by a soft

,

arrangement o f the hair .

In arrangement o f the hair remember that balance is the

law o f beauty as it is o f wisdom For instance balance
, .
,

the heavy j aw by drawing the hair in a lo o se mass well for

wa r d above the b ro w B alance the s n ub nose by a loose
.

coi ffure with no j utti n g protuberance at the back to suggest

that it is the corresp o n di n g p ole o f the nose .

As to color o f the hair it is my j udgment that we would

,

better leave it as nature pai n ted it Nature 1S the gr eatest .

colorist S he matches complexion eyes and eyebrows pe r

.
,

fe c tly with the hair Transform your hair and you will
.
,

be at the trouble o f trans formi n g your e n tire p erso n .

We are not to blame for ou r hair but we are to blam ,

for our hats They must look as though they belo n ged t o
.

us a s o u r faces o ur eyes o u r teeth belo n g to us

, , .

I always tri m my o wn hats First I began to trim them .

because I had not the money to buy them or to pay for

t r immi n g them Now I trim them because no o n e can do
.

s o to suit me .

I prefer simple hats for the su fficient rea son that they
,

are more becoming to me But an ove r trimmed hat is i n .

artistic It is ugly It is vulgar The hat should serve

. . .

its function of being a becoming frame for the face The .

 TH E B EAUTY
’
S P ER SON A L ITY 3 7
0

head should not be a mere pedestal or milli n er s dummy ’

fo r a monstrous hat Women a n swer criticisms o f the ter

.

rible travesties now worn But they a r e the fashio n ”

,
.

Yes but who made them the fashio n " Y o u and you and
,

y o.u A fashio n can be killed at its birth in the shops o f ,

Paris i f women will but determi n edly say

,
No no n o , ,
.

I do not like it I shall not wear i t S how me others

.
”
. .

Remember the law o f balance A woman with a taper .

i n g chin shoul d wear a hat built to a co r respo n di n g peak

at the top The e ffect o f thes e two peaks should be to
.

form an agreeable oval .

’
The round faced woman s safety o f becomingness lies in
-

the hat in which angles predomi n ate It should have sti ff .

ribbon bows and sharp aigrettes o r pointed wi n gs and ,

dagger like ornamen ts This woman will always be i m

-
.

p r oved too by wearing V e ffects in coats and wraps and

, ,

gowns .

The h o rnlike e ffects should be avoide d by the woman

with sharp features Her task o f lendi n g a sembla n ce o f
.

softness and rou n d n ess to her face is made easier by a hat

with a so ft brim trimmed with a fall o f lace o r a shirring
of silk o r velvet Also the sharp featured woman should
.
-

never wear a sailo r hat Neither should any woman over .

twenty fiv e -
.

Here are some rules about dressing so fundamental that ,

I would hesitate to give them were it not that every day I

drive down Fifth Avenue I see them flagra n tly transgressed .

For instance I s ee the short st o ut woman wearing a

, ,

short stout coat The long thin woma n wea r s a lo n g thin

, .
, ,

coat That is each woman forgetti n g the law o f bala n ce

.
, , ,

has chosen that which accentuates what nature has already

ove r acce n tuated The Short coat Should have been wo r n
.

by the tall woman It would have made her seem sho rter
. .

The lo n g coat shoul d have been worn by the Short woman

to disguise her brev ity .
3 6 8 MY S ECRET S O F B EAUTY

I s ee Short women wearing horizontal trimming when ,

they should have ha d lengthwise trimming pointed trim ,

ming or n o trimming at all .

I s ee a tall s lender woman wearing a long cape whe n

, ,

s he could have divide d her su perabundant height in two by

weari n g a short one .

I see a short woman wearing a flou n ce about her already

absurdly short skirt By some perversity the short woman
.

t r ies to emulate the barrel an d the tall woman the telegraph

'

pole .

The woman with a crane like n e ck b ar e s its fun n y le n gth

’

to a g r i n ni n g world a n d the woma n with a mere line where

,

a neck should b e muffl e s that up with ruches that make her

look like a frightened setti n g hen .

I f only they would have ever befor e them the thought ,

What is becomi n g to me " a n d put far behi n d them t h e

”

other questio n What is the fashion

,
" ”
then would women
dress artistically not ridiculously
, .

I do no t preach that which I am not willi n g to p ractice .

It happe n s that I do not like white To me it is a dead .

,

tryi n g c o lor There fo re I never wear it I am told this

. .

”
is to be a white season I answer It will not be for me
.
,
.

And I conti n ue to wear blue o r black o n the street a n d pale ,

shades o f rose or blue or gree n or yellow at n ight A n d .

merely because it happens to be a white season people

do not forge t to look at La Cavalieri in rose or yellow o r
blue o r green .

Let me recall to you the most b eautiful o f American

women Maxi n e Elliott O n e winter the coat coveri n g the
,
.

hips forming a seco n d thickness o f "c loth upon them w a s

, ,

fashion able Did Miss Elliott wear it " No t at all I

. .

saw her weari n g a very pronou n ced cutaway coa t o n e in ,

which the frock part o f the coat was cut at the very middle
o f her hips s o taking from instead of adding to the width
,
3 10 MY S ECRET S OF BEAUTY
sents the soul S hould you lean more to the material side
.

o f life you are best represented by red I f you are o ne of .

the growi n g army o f the intellectuals this authority advises ,

weari n g much o f the mental color which is blue , .

It occurs to me to inquire whether that is the reason why

women o f strong mentality are often referred to as blue
stockings I d o not wholly agree with this woman lec
.

tu r er .

I f for instance you are a red woman why not wear

, , ,

considerable yellow " It will give you a mo r e soul ful

aspect and i f o u r manners react upon o u r characters why
, , ,

should not colors " Wearing the soul col o r may develop
late n t soul qualities Or the red woman by wearing much
.
,

blue might to use a term o f the stage

, , convey an illu ,

sion o f greater mentality tha n she has and perhaps stir ,

that part o f her sel f to greater activity .

It is an interesti n g theo r y but may perhap s be pursued , , ,

to the point of attenuation One quality I like so g r eatly .

in yo u America n s is that you are practical a n d theories s o ,

te n uous as this I have quoted move you to laughter I r e .

call that w h en o n e o f your authors wrote o f the color o f

individual auras and talked o f a pink perso n ality s he ” “
,

greatly i n terested the humorists I leave with you t his .

theory to smile at o r to adopt as you like .

But in what I shall s ay next I am most gravely serious .

That is that in selecting your wardrobe I would have you

think far more about your individuality than about the
passing fashion I d o not k n ow what will be the next
.

caprice in furs I do not care B eing tall and Slight I

. .

shall choose lo n g haired furs as the silver fox because to

-
, , ,

use a n Americanism I can carry them well ”

But if you
, .

w ho read this are short and especially if yo u are sho r t ,

a n d stout wear short skin n ed fu r s as mi n k a n d seal and

,
-
,

sable i f yo u can a ffo r d them for long haired furs will

, ,
-

render you out o f drawi n g absurdly costumed , .

 THE BEAUT Y ’
S P ER S O N A L ITY 3 1 1

While choosi n g your hats a n d wraps your gowns and ,

gloves be for once self ce n tered S elf centeredness is ex

,
-
.
-

e n sable when o n e is shoppi n g It is in the direction o f .

eco n omy for if we think steadily o f ourselves we will not

,

purchase a fur coat in which our sister looks adorable but

oursel f ridiculous and we will n ot order a gown that will
,

prove s o unbecoming that we will give it away after once

o r twice wea r ing it .

Keep in mind a fter your o w n indivi d uality (c ertain art

, ,

principles that apply to dress This is a good o n e as to .

“
color . Dress up to your eyes your hair o r you r com ,

p lexio n Permit
. me to explain If a girl has br o wn eyes .

She may not always wear brown gowns But she can be .

exceedingly careful to wear n o tint that will make her

creamy Skin look sallow For h er creamy shades are b e .

comi n g becaus e they harmonize with her complexion

, .

I f a girl has red hair S he will be wise i f she wears sha d es ,

regardless of the tint o f the moment that will throw the ,

hai r into relie f — as blue o r green o r black I f a woman , , .

has I r ish eyes — that fascinating mixture o f blue and gray ,

that holds in its depths much o f infa n t in n oce n ce yet much

"

of wo r ld ly wisdom deep eyes that fascinate because they

are inscrutable — she will look her best in gowns that
,

match he r eyes the same i n dete rminate blue and gray

, .

Think o f yoursel f s teadily and not tenderly in the selec

tion of stu ffs I f y o u are thin and active so ft materials
.
, ,

as chi ffo ns cr epe de chines light weight silks will be

, , ,

becoming I f you are o f heavier habit heavier silks and

.
,

broadcloths are more expressive and s o more becomi n g .

The dividi n g li n e between the skirt and bodice is ugly .

I f you ca nn ot have a one part dress then hide the dividing ,

line by a girdle I f you are stout let the girdle be o f the

.
,

same shade and mate r ial as the gown I f not slender you .
,

may safely wear a girdle o f di fferent shade than your gown .

A rtists know the beauty o f the straight line an d for a ,

3 1 2 MY S ECRET S OF BEAUT Y
few seasons co ut ou r i er es have groped their way to ward it .

Pa r allel lines running le ngt hwise are the li n es of beauty i n

d r ess because they consistently follow those o f the figure .

Fo r this reason a gown wh o se pronounced li n es are f rom

the shoulder the d r apery curvi n g slightly at the waist gi ve
, ,

grace and beauty to the figure Trimmings that ru n

.

a r ound the figure always lack beauty an d if o f contrasting

,

material they have a ludicrous e ffect The high girdle gives

.

a n appeara n ce o f greater le n gth to the limbs The girdle .

,

if n ot o f the same color and material shoul d not be of too

,

glari n gly the opposite .

Remember that sti ff e ffects are always inartistic s o avoid ,

the appearance o f being trussed up as a fowl i n the oven

,

o r soldier o n parade . F o r this reason shun tight sleeves ,

tight gloves o r ski r ts s o heavy or narro w that they make

, ,

your gait an awkward o n e I am glad that fashion per

.

mits the wearing o f loose gloves They give ease to the

.

hands a n d are far more graceful than the tight ones that
gave the hand the appea r ance o f bei n g stu ffed into it .

When selecting you r hat a bit of brilliant color may be

,

i n t r oduced ; but let it n ot be directly above the face fo r it ,

will give to the face the illusion o f being pale whether it is,

o r not .
3 14 MY S ECRET S OF B EAUTY

tio n This poison is dest r uctive to the livi n g organisms

.
,

and in a few weeks tr eatme n t obsti n ate cases o f p imples

’

have bee n completely cured by the welcome new process .

For obsti n ate cases o f ac n e some adva n ced physicia n s are

utilizing the X ray Blackheads are always disfiguri n g
-
. .

Certai n physicians have adopted the principle that these

micro orga n isms lodg e in the follicles from which spri ng
-

the small hai r s t hat form a down on the cheeks These .

mic r o orga n isms sprea d fast and caus e i n flammation The

-
.

X ray is s u mmoned to check the Sp read o f the i n fl amma

-

tion This they do without danger to the ski n After

. .

th r ee o r four treatments the face looks as though it were

badly su nbu rn ed This appearance rema i ns it seems to
.
,

the patient discoura gi ngly lo n g but the results are most

, ,

g r atifyi n g in every case I have studied The ac n e has been .

permanently removed and the complexion left b eautifully

clea r .

A third scientific treatment o f great aid to beauty is the

removal o f scars by an i n j ection locally o f a heal i ng serum, , ,

benea th the ski n Its fu n ction is to loosen the st ructu r e

.
,

relax the drawn tissues a n d smooth the surface th at had

bee n to us e an Americanism puckered
,
”
There is in this
, .

last remedy the eleme n t of risk that always obtains when a

fo r eign substa n ce is inj ected in to the circulation .

B ecause o f this element the method has n ot the entire

endorsement o f the medical profession .

A method that has g r eat vogu e j ust now is the n ew or

mod i fied massage called pa tti n g This is accepted by those .

w ho have always bee n consiste n t enemies o f massage as it

is gene r ally given Their theo ry is that massage as ma ny
.
,

have k n ow n it me r ely moves the wrinkles from o n e part o f

,

the face to a n other Patti n g they declare does n o t drag

.
, ,

the ski n but builds up the muscles a n d p r omotes the c i r c u

,

lation The name is a well fitti ng o n e Patting is do n e

.
-
.

very lightly with the ti ps o f the fi ngers .

 O DD S A ND END S O F B EAUTY CULTURE 3 5
1

The nose clamp is a new and amusing device adopte d by

beauties and would b e beauties to prevent the spreading o f
-

the n ostrils and to give the nose that would otherwise be ,

t oo round a delicate point

,
I have called on my friends in
.

the morning and have been received in their bedrooms .

They looked very charmi n g in their night robes o f delicate

batiste e mb roidered and further ornamented with pink
,

and blue b o ws not pink and blue bows on di fferent gowns

, ,

but combined in the same gown Their hair carefully .

parted from the point o f the forehead to the back o f the

neck and braided in two loose braids either hangs b ec om
, ,

i n gly over their shoulders o n e braid tied with a blue bow

, ,

the other with a pink to match the ribbon garniture o f the

,

nigh t robe o r is twisted loosely around the head Their

, .

complexions looked f r esh a n d cool from t heir bath o f cold

cream but they all looked o d d and I shrieked with laughter
, ,

at them because they wore nose clamps One w ho disliked .

the touch o f the col d metal substituted the homely do

mes ti c article the clothespi n
,
Both the clamp and the
.

clothespin are well protected by a lini n g o f white sil k o r

velvet Absurd as these thi n gs look I w as assured by all
.
,

who wore the m that they served admirably their purpose .

Ice has come to be o n e o f the first aids o f beauty It is .

used a fter massage o f the face and neck to harden the

muscles I fi n d women using it to drive away w rinkles
.

and this seems to me scientific for while the shock o f the

,

first application will d r ive the blood from the surface it ,

causes it to rebo und bringing a fine flush t o the skin and

,

feeding the neglected a n d shru n ken tissues .

Whatever renews the tissues eradicates wri n kles .

Many physicians are e n dorsi n g sulphur facial baths to

cure acne This lotio n is applied several times a day they
.
,

told me with goo d results

,

Rose water 4 o u nces ; precipitate o f sulph u r 1 d ram ;

, ,

tinctu r e o f campho r I dram , .

 16 MY S E C RET S O F B EAUT Y
Women are beginning to realize that sagging muscles ,

rather than a superabundance o f flesh are the cause of the ,

double chin They are preventing as far as possible the

.
, ,

falling cheek muscles and the pendulousness o f the chin

muscles by harde n ing them with lumps o f ice held in the
ha n d and pressed agai n st those muscles as long as the pres
sure c an b e endured ; also by wea r i n g chin ba n dages .

First the fa n cy then the fad then the flitti n g This is

, , .

the histo ry o f most annou n ced discoverie s o f the means to

heighten beauty They have their littl e hour o f disciple
.

ship ; their impulsive followi n g ; their period o f vanishing .

Yet beneat h n early all the beauty fads there is a more or

less well applied pri n ciple o f science .

For insta n ce there is the rubber chin band The band to

, .

control the usurping flesh o f the double chin w as first o f

muslin Then it w a s i mproved by the use o f elastic Now
. .

it has evolved to its best state that o f strong y et light ,

rubber made with a throat latch resembli n g the lower part

,

o f a horse s halter
’
Attached by a clasp o n either side are
.

straps that faste n at the top o f the head The original idea .

o f compressing the flesh s o that it woul d fo rm in a smaller

a n d becoming mold w a s sou n d but the later idea of usi n g

,

rubb er appeal s still more to commo n knowledge The .

weari n g o f rubb er n ext to the ski n causes perspiration .

Therefore the rubber ba n d will not o n ly hol d the flesh

,

o f the pendulous chin in place but by causi n g free p er sp 1r a

,

tion it will gradually redu c e its siz e The rubber ba n d .

,

worn at night and frequently duri n g the day for a hal f

, ,

hou r or more at a time is the best cure for the double chin
,

the n ew year has o ffered us .

The aged hand has been a source o f much morti fi cati on

and a n xiety to the woman who has left her thirtie s a n d her
fo r ties behind her Y e t electricity that prime aid in the
.
,

rej uvenation o f beauty has come to her aid a n d now the

, ,

woman w ho has a go o d many yea rs to her credit but w ho ,