SECOND QUARTER 2022 ■ VOLUME 6

TOP
SCAPES
OF THE
AGA

A Planted Nano for Shrimp ■ Poison Dart Frogs

Fish Breeding Success ■ Amazonas Tributary ■ And More!
aquariumhobbyistmagazine.com
F  eatures  Second Quarter 2022 ■ Vol. 6 Announcements
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14 From Sketch to Scape: issue as a PDF.
A Planted Nano for Shrimp
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44 Rio River Stream

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4 • Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine  Second Quarter 2022

Amazonas Tributary
By Arturo Salcedo Polo

W
ith this display, I wanted to create an Amazon River tribu- Amazonian origin, the plants help create a rainforest feel on the
tary biotope. This habitat features dark and slow-moving vertical wall.
waters with sediments at the bottom, as well as an area
with emerged plants and branches. Although they are not all of Aquarium
Tank: Acuario Málaga
Custom Dimensions: 31” × 16” × 6”
Volume: 34 gallons
Cabinet: IKEA Kallax

Aquascape
Style: biotope inspired
About the Author Substrate: JBL Sansibar Orange
Wood: Redmoor wood, twigs
Other: Medlar and Catappa leaves
Arturo lives in Madrid, Spain, and has been in the hobby since 2014.
He has kept African cichlid tanks, reef tanks, and various planted
Equipment
tanks but keeps returning to his favorite: Amazon tanks. To see more
of his creations, join him on Facebook at "aquariumsterrariumsart" or Lighting: (2) Inspire GAO 5-watt LEDs, homemade WRGB
Instagram at "aquariums_terrariums_art." 3-watt LED

6 • Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine Second Quarter 2022

aquariumhobbyistmagazine.com Amazonas Tributary • 7
 Photoperiod: 1.5 hours sunrise, 8
hours full, 1.5 hours sunset
Filter: Fluval 307
Filter Media: foam, expanded clay
Heater: Eheim, 100 watts

Maintenance
Water Changes: 40 percent monthly
Fertilizers: none

Food
‒ Azoo Ultra Fresh
‒ Sera Granured & Granugreen Plants

Water Parameters
pH: 7.0
Nitrate: 0 ppm
Nitrite: 0 ppm
Ammonia: 5 ppm
Carbonate Hardness: 2°
General Hardness: 3°

Plants
‒ Phyllanthus fluitans
‒ Hemianthus callitrichoides
‒ Hydrocotyle leucocephala
‒ Hydrocotyle verticillata
‒ Hemigraphis colorata
‒ Chamaedorea sp.
‒ Begonia bowerae ˈTigerˈ
‒ Hygrophila pinnatifida
‒ Hygrophila corymbosa
‒ Hygrophila corymbosa ˈStricta Blueˈ
‒ Rotala boschii
‒ Ludwigia palustris ˈSuper Redˈ
‒ Ludwigia palustris ˈGreenˈ
‒ Anubias heterophylla
‒ Cryptocoryne undulata
‒ Cryptocoryne wendtii ˈBrownˈ
‒ Lobelia cardinalis
‒ Echinodorus argentinensis
‒ Ozelot Sword (green)
‒ Ozelot Sword (red)
‒ Pogostemon erectus
‒ Alternanthera reineckii ˈRosanervigˈ
‒ Lagenandra meeboldii ˈRedˈ
‒ Bacopa crenata
‒ Acorus gramineus ˈPusillusˈ
‒ Pellionia pulchra

Fish
‒ Paracheirodon innesi
‒ Dantum Angelfish
‒ Corydoras aeneus ˈVenezuelaˈ
‒ Mikrogeophagus ramirezi
‒ Otocinclus affinis AH

8 • Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine Second Quarter 2022

 Electric Blue Rams finding shelter under an Anubias plant
USING PLANTS TO ACHIEVE
FISH BREEDING SUCCESS
By Tammy Law

B
reeding fish is a very exciting part of the aquarium hobby.
Seeing an adult fish that I raised from an egg gives me an
incredibly rewarding feeling. However, breeding fish often
requires more resources than standard fishkeeping. Extra time and
effort are usually needed to ensure the fish fry stay alive and healthy.
Over time, I have learned to use plants to make breeding fish easier
for me.

About the Author
Tammy Law was born and raised in San Francisco, CA, and got into
the hobby as a high schooler. She loves all aspects of the hobby but
is passionate about fish breeding. To follow Tammy's journey, look up
"Aquarist_TL" on Instagram.
A Natural Filter
I try to have plants in all my fish tanks because of their filtering
abilities. One of the fundamentals of the aquarium hobby is an under-
standing of the nitrogen cycle. Briefly, fish waste and other decaying
matter create ammonia in the water. Ammonia is toxic to fish and
shrimp, and even small amounts can be fatal. Luckily, beneficial
bacteria found in the water convert ammonia to nitrites and then
finally nitrates, and fish and shrimp can tolerate nitrates at low levels.
One of the reasons we perform water changes on our aquariums is
to reduce the nitrates that have built up in the water.

10 • Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine Second Quarter 2022

Conditioning adult fish for breeding creates a lot of waste due to
the extra feedings. Raising the babies creates even more waste
because there are a lot more mouths to feed, sometimes even hun-
dreds of babies in one spawn depending on the type of fish. They
also must eat every day when they are young, and it’s typically best
to feed them multiple times a day to keep them growing strong.
So essentially, raising these fish fry would require the breeder to
perform a lot more water changes than usual. This is where plants
really save the day.

Plants primarily need five things to grow: water, light, nutrients,

space (to grow), and air (specifically oxygen and carbon dioxide).
The aquatic plants in our tanks always have water, which contains
oxygen and carbon dioxide. Assuming we give them a consistent
source of light and enough space, then all we have to worry about
is providing nutrients.

One of the main nutrients that plants use to grow is nitrogen.

Ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate are all forms of nitrogen. If you recall,
these are the compounds that are released into the water from
fish waste and other decaying organics. Plants will absorb these
compounds as they grow, removing them from the water column.
In other words, the fish provide nutrients for the plants to grow, and
the plants in turn help clean the water for the fish.

This is why plants are, in my opinion, the best filters out there. While
the typical filters we buy and install on our tanks do the job of con-
verting ammonia to nitrates, plants go the extra mile and remove
these harmful elements from the water. They are nature’s filter, and
as a breeder, keeping plants in my tanks provides a safety buffer for
my systems. I can afford to delay my water changes and still have
peace of mind knowing the plants will be doing some of the work
for me. In the long run, the plants are saving me time and energy.

Protection
One of the challenges of breeding fish is preventing the fry from
getting eaten. Unfortunately, it’s a fish-eat-fish world out there. Even
the parents of the fry sometimes prey on their own young. This
is especially true for livebearers like Guppies and platies. When it
comes to cichlids like rams and angelfish, they tend to care for their
babies, and if they don’t, the eggs can be separated from the parents
and hatched artificially by the breeder.

Livebearers are born free-swimming, so they cannot be separated

from the mother. One strategy that some breeders use for these fish
is to separate the mother in her own breeder box or container when
she’s about to give birth. While this has worked for me in the past,
I’ve found that the mother fish gets stressed out from this process,
and she will sometimes still eat her young. It’s also a lot of work to
find every female that is close to giving birth, and sometimes there
isn’t enough space for each fish to have her own container. This all
culminated in a lot of stress for me and my fish.

While I was going through this strenuous routine with my Guppies, I

was also adding some floating plants and Water Sprite to help with
the nitrates. Once the plants grew in, I noticed that there were more
and more fry surviving in the tank. The plants provided them with
enough cover to stay hidden from the eager mouths of the adults. It
got to the point where I stopped using the breeder boxes because

aquariumhobbyistmagazine.com Using Plants to Achieve Fish Breeding Success • 11

 Top-down view of my Electric Calico Platy breeding tank
they were no longer needed. The Guppy population exploded nat-
urally with the help of the plants and made the whole breeding
process much easier for me.
In addition to providing protection for young fish, I also use plants to
prevent unwanted behaviors in adults. Some of the fish I keep—South
American cichlids, for example—are very territorial. If a dominant fish
sees others in its space, it will chase them and sometimes even nip
their fins. To reduce aggression in the tank, it’s helpful to add visual
barriers. Plants help keep the fish from seeing each other, and the
more the plants grow in, the more they block the view of potential
aggressors.
Favorite Plants
Fast-growing plants are best for breeding setups because the
faster the plants grow, the more nutrients they take up. Plants that
grow emersed typically grow faster than submerged ones. For that
reason, floating plants are my favorite. Examples of popular floating
plants include Amazon Frogbit, Dwarf Water Lettuce, and Red Root
Floaters.
One plant that has done exceptionally well for me is Water Sprite.
I never intended to keep this plant, but I received it by mistake in
an order. I decided to just float it on the surface of one of my ram
tanks, and it took off right away! Pretty soon, it was taking up too
much space in that tank, so I had to break it apart. I placed the extra
growth in other tanks, and now almost all of my aquariums have
Water Sprite. The original plant that I wanted was Hornwort, which I
did eventually get as well. Both plants can be floated on the surface
of an aquarium, grow very fast, and provide a lot of cover for fry to
hide at the surface of the water.
I also like to have plants at the bottom of the tank. My choice of
bottom plant usually ends up being some type of moss. Fortunately,
12 • Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine
Electric Calico Platies swimming through a jungle of Water Sprite
moss does not require a lot of light, so while the floating plants block
most of the light, the moss is still able to grow. Although moss grows
slowly, it will spread out and cover most of the bottom of a tank
before you know it. Having moss in the aquarium creates even more
hiding places for young fish. Popular mosses in the hobby include
Java Moss, Christmas Moss, Weeping Moss, and Peacock Moss.
Another moss-like plant to consider is Süßwassertang.
In addition to aquatic plants, I also use common house plants like
Pothos and Lucky Bamboo. I like to grow Pothos in my larger aquar-
iums that are heavily stocked with fish. It grows very fast and is
safe for the fish if the leaves stay out of the water. Pothos does a
superb job of keeping my nitrates low and looks great hanging out
of the tank!
As a breeder, plants save me a lot of time and energy. By growing
plants alongside the fish, they help naturally filter the water while
also providing protection for fish, both old and young. Live plants
have the power to aid you significantly in your fishkeeping hobby, so
if you haven’t tried them yet, I highly recommend it! AH
Süßwassertang is an ideal bottom plant for fish breeding. | Image by Buce Plant
Second Quarter 2022
 FROM SKETCH TO SCAPE:
A Planted Nano for Shrimp
By Constantin Monfilliette
A
fter a long break from the hobby, I decided to dive back in
with something simple, yet attractive, that would fit well in
our living room. The main idea was to create a beautifully
scaped planted tank for shrimp. I envisioned something more inter-
esting than just a simple shrimp-breeding tank, with more details
and more colors, following a well thought-out design.
I chose a nano tank mainly to reduce the costs and to reenter the
hobby without taking too many risks. On one hand, nano tanks
are known to be more difficult to maintain because they are less
About the Author
Constantin Monfilliette is a French aquascaper who currently lives
in Canada. He started shrimpkeeping 12 years ago and recently
reentered the hobby after a long break. To see more of his work, follow
"constantin_monfilliette" on Instagram.
14 • Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine
stable. On the other hand, the maintenance required is considerably
reduced, and as long as you check your parameters often and under-
stand the basics, I’d say that it’s not hard to keep a nano healthy.
DESIGN
The concept was to create a tank infused with a sense of simplicity
and peacefulness. I feel deeply connected to the “less is more” prin-
ciple (a phrase adopted in 1947 by architect Ludwig Mies van der
Rohe), so I chose to keep the design minimalistic and simple. The
result ended up being a mix of different styles: the principle of an
Iwagumi, the hardscape of a Ryoboku, and the colors of a Brazilian
scape, all interpreted through the aesthetic of a nature aquarium.
Before starting this scape, I spent a long time refamiliarizing myself
with the basics and revisited lots of resources to plan the tank. I
watched countless videos made by truly passionate and instructive
aquascapers and shops, including MJ Aquascaping, Green Aqua,
Jordan Stirrat, Catherine Renarde, ullalaaqua, Gloria Ciriello, The
2Hr Aquarist, and Jurijs Jutjajevs.
Second Quarter 2022
 Red Cherry Shrimp

In the design process, I first chose the tank. I went with a long and narrow rimless tank by Hydra
Aquatics. The tank is 24” × 7” × 9” and holds 6.3 gallons (25 liters). I chose this shape because I
wanted something that could be viewed as a panorama and as a slice of an underwater scene as well.

Then I began to sketch. I find it useful to draw out potential scapes because there are some designs
that I know I want to avoid once I see them on paper, which saves me time once I start scaping. I
zeroed in on a few ideas for the overall layout, as well as the hardscape elements I would use. After
I made my sketches, I started to collect what I’d need for the hardscape, the substrate, and the tank.
Because my tank is narrow, I didn’t have many options for driftwood, which made it hard to accu-
rately reproduce my sketched ideas. I made several initial attempts to create a scape I was happy
with, but I just couldn’t do it. I took some time off to take a step back, see the big picture, and refresh
my vision for the tank. Eventually, I settled on this final scape, and I’m quite happy with the result.

I sloped my substrate toward the back to increase the feeling of perspective, but it’s also sloped
from right to left to increase the feeling of flow, an architectural element that inspired the tank’s
name, “Slice of Life.”

PLANTS
Because the tank is small, I decided to go with small- to medium-sized plants to increase the feeling
of empty space. I also chose plants that were easy to grow to give myself the best chance of success.
I mainly used two plants in this system. Micranthemum tweediei 'Monte Carlo' is a carpeting plant
from Argentina with lush, bright green foliage, and Alternanthera reineckii 'Mini' is a red plant from
South America used to add colors to the scape. These two plants helped me create the visual impact
I desired. The other plants provide accents and details. For the background, I used Bacopa monnieri
to give a touch of green verticality and to emphasize a relationship with the green foreground. This
plant also grows well emerged and gives the tank an additional dimension. The leaves and flowers
of this plant are edible and are known for their beneficial effect on the nervous system!

Micranthemum tweediei 'Monte Carlo', Alternanthera reineckii 'Mini', and Bacopa monnieri are rela-
tively fast-growing plants if you have CO2 injection and good lighting, so I also picked them because
they will reduce excess nutrients more quickly and decrease the chance of algae early on. I didn’t
use any fast-growing stem plants, as I didn’t want to trim a lot and because my tank is small. For the

aquariumhobbyistmagazine.com From Sketch to Scape: A Planted Nano for Shrimp • 15

 shaded areas, I used Cryptocoryne species, which are easy, low-light
plants. Cryptocoryne wendtii 'Brown' and Cryptocoryne lutea 'Hobbit'
are very small and add nice details to the scape. I find it interest-
ing to use multiple plants of the same genus, as it gives a feeling
of harmony and consistency. I also used some Bucephalandra sp.
'Kedagang'. These plants are absolutely amazing, and their spotted
leaves provide another visual focal point.

All these plants came from tissue-culture cups, which are guaranteed
to be free of pests, snails, and algae. Another great way to avoid
algae early on is to cycle your tank without lights, plants, or CO2,
known as the dark-start cycle. This is a good option if you want to
put the odds on your side. The tissue culture and dark-start cycle
will require more time and attention, but it’s worth it. And it’s quite
fun and rewarding to see plants grow from scratch. Tissue cultures
are also relatively inexpensive for the quantity of plants you get. With
one cup of Alternanthera reineckii 'Mini', I managed to separate at
least 10 individual portions. Same for the Monte Carlo; one cup will
cover an area roughly the size of the palm of my hand.

SUBSTRATE
Because the focus of this tank is a hardscape planted with a few
healthy plants, I decided to use an active substrate rich in nutrients.
I also wanted a substrate that would buffer some of the acidic influ-
ences in the system (CO2, fish waste, decaying organics, etc.), so I
chose Aquario Neo Soil. Like all high-nutrient soils, it leached a lot
of ammonia and nitrates at first, but going with a dark start, absent
of plants and animals, it was not really a problem.

16 • Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine Second Quarter 2022

HARDSCAPE
For the main hardscape, I needed something visually soft, so I chose
driftwood. I also used Dragon Stone as a supporting element to
build a strong base for the driftwood and to add some additional
details to the scape. This stone was a natural fit because it looks a
bit like driftwood in color and texture. I placed sand to balance the
left and right sides. The left side was designed to look like a creek,
and the right side like a valley. The sloped substrate planted with
Monte Carlo is the transition, and the focal point is between the two
pieces of driftwood. I applied the rule of thirds here.

SHRIMP
The stars of this display are Red Cherry Shrimp (Neocaridina davidi
'Red Cherry'). They are the easiest and most common type of shrimp
in the hobby, and their size is ideal for this setup. I started with only
eight shrimp to give me time to prepare for an eventual explosion
in population once the parameters stabilized. I typically suggest
five shrimp per gallon as an initial stocking level, but more are fine
if your tank is mature, cycled, and healthy. Today, I have around 30
shrimp in this tank, and I have two other 5-gallon breeding tanks
that host 40 shrimp each.

To be successful with this species of shrimp, it is important to provide

stable parameters, appropriate food, abundant hiding places, plants,
and the right tank mates. You will also need to monitor your general
hardness (GH), carbonate hardness (KH), and total dissolved solid
(TDS) levels.

aquariumhobbyistmagazine.com From Sketch to Scape: A Planted Nano for Shrimp • 17

Where I live, the tap water is really soft, so I have to add minerals Monthly
to reach my targets of 220 ppm TDS, roughly 9° GH, and 3° KH. I
also add dechlorinator and water conditioner as a safety precaution. ‒ remove all equipment for cleaning
My tank water is around 22° C (72° F), which is my room tempera- ‒ clean filter media in siphoned tank water
ture. If you want to use tap water, test it beforehand to know its ‒ clean CO2 diffuser and run it in white vinegar for 10 minutes,
parameters, or contact your city’s water department for the data. In then in tap water
some cities, the water is too hard, and you may need to mix it with ‒ troubleshoot any equipment issues
reverse osmosis (RO) water. You can also use RO water only and
remineralize it, which is quite common in shrimp breeding. The pH FEEDING
of my tank varies from 6.5 in the day to 7.0 at night (when there is no
I feed my shrimp approximately every other day with various foods:
CO2 injection). Neocaridina shrimp are in their comfort zone in the
Hikari Shrimp Cuisine is the main one (two to three times a week),
6.5–7.5 pH range. Ammonia and nitrites must stay at 0 ppm. If your
but I also feed Glasgarten pellet sticks (2 to 3 times a month) and
tank is cycled, stable, and not overstocked, those targets shouldn’t
blanched vegetables, like carrots or zucchini (once a month).
be a problem to achieve. Nitrates in this tank are close to 0 ppm, so
I dose a bit of nitrogen to reach my 5 ppm target, which is safe for
shrimp and beneficial for the plants.
CONCLUSION
This tank is now 6 months old, and given the planning and time
This tank also hosts a nerite snail that, along with the shrimp, com- involved, it’s nice to see it growing in as I’d hoped. It’s been a real
prise a good cleaning team for the tank. pleasure to return to this hobby and to rekindle my love of small
ecosystems in my home. AH
MAINTENANCE
The key to keeping a planted tank healthy is consistency. We can ensure
better control of our tanks if we allow plenty of time to take care of them.
In my case, I split my maintenance schedule into three categories:

Daily

‒ observe plants and check for algae

‒ observe animals for normal activity
‒ check equipment and CO2
‒ dose fertilizers (twice a week)

Weekly

‒ perform a water change (50 percent)

‒ vacuum carpet and soil of detritus
‒ clean glass
Red Cherry Shrimp
‒ trim plants

18 • Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine Second Quarter 2022


POISON DART FROGS 101
By Tijl Liekens
F
ew animals evoke the wonder and mystery of the Central and
South American rainforests like poison dart frogs. Their bold
patterns and bright neon colors make these frogs highly desir-
able as pets, but are they easy to keep?
About the Author
Tijl is a hobbyist terrascaper from Heist-op-den-berg, Belgium, and
has been keeping and breeding different species of Dendrobatidae
since 2010. You can find his indoor neotropical ecosystems and frog
portfolio by searching “urban__jungles” on Instagram.
20 • Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine
Dendrobates tinctorius ˈTumucumaqueˈ female
All dart frogs are contained within the family Dendrobatidae, which
includes 16 genera and around 200 species. Many of these species
are nontoxic in the wild, and many are cryptically colored. But the
iconic dart frogs in the hobby are vividly colored (if their nutritional
demands are met), and even the species that are toxic in the wild are
not toxic in captivity. In captivity, these frogs don’t produce poison
due to the missing chemicals they would otherwise get from wild
arthropod prey, such as ants, centipedes, and mites.
KEEPING DENDROBATIDAE
First things first, each species of these neotropical frogs has its own
individual needs when it comes to foods, habitat, and more. While
there are similarities, each species or morph evolved to thrive and
behave in a certain way in a specific environment. For example,
Second Quarter 2022
 Evolution of a Frogscape Build Oophaga sylvatica 'Paru' female, WIKIRI line

some frogs need to be kept in higher humidity, others benefit from
lower temperatures, and some will thrive when kept in groups. This
variability means that, long before acquiring frogs and even before
choosing an enclosure, you need to research the species you want
to keep.
After thoroughly cleaning the glass tank, I start by attaching the
inside back (and possibly side) panels with aquarium silicone.
Preferably, these panels are composed of tree fern or compressed
cork, which plants can easily grow on. Once the silicone is cured, I
start adding the substrate.

THE ENCLOSURE
A general rule for the size of a basic enclosure to house a pair of adult
poison dart frogs is 24″ × 18″ × 18″ or larger. Certain species can be
temporarily housed in a smaller tank, but a smaller tank gives even
an experienced keeper no room for errors in maintenance.
For reference, I house my frog pairs in 48″ × 24″ × 24″, 36″ × 24″
× 26″, or 24-inch-cube vivariums. Most poison dart frogs are very
territorial and will claim and defend every inch of available space. It
would be nearly impossible to give these animals too much space
in captivity.
My advice for those starting out is to invest in a glass tank that is
specifically designed for housing Dendrobatidae. These terrariums
are built with an elevated floor area and have a drainage gutter and
two or three screened vents for passive air turnover. Proper air circu-
lation plays an important role in the well-being of the frogs and plants.
SCAPING
In early 2020, I discovered the wonderful world of aquascaping and
For the hardscape, any material that can be used in a freshwater
aquarium is an option. Large pieces of driftwood, spider wood, and
roots, in addition to Seiryu, Dragon, and other types of stones, have
been included in my tanks. Aquascaping tools, aquarium glue, and
silicone always come in quite handy when arranging the hardscape
and plants. This is where you can let your creativity run free!
SUBSTRATE
Simplicity is key.
For the base layer, I like to use a sheet of aquatic reticulated polyether.
This sheet collects excess water from the misting system, which
needs to be drained from time to time. On top of that sheet, I add
a layer of small aquarium gravel, and some areas get covered with
tree bark for the cleanup crew to thrive in. This way, I will never have
to tear down the tank to replace any possible rotting or decayed
substrate like you would when using terrarium soil. As a finishing
touch, I always add a final layer of leaf litter.
The frog room

was absolutely blown away by the passion and seemingly endless

content shared by the ever-growing aquascaping community. This
has been an immense inspiration and influenced the way I look at
and approach my hobby these days.

For me, successful scaping is a matter of finding the perfect balance

between aesthetics and functionality. I always keep in mind the rule
of thirds and make sure I retain as much usable space as possible
for the future inhabitants. Working out ideas on paper first is not
really my style, and I tend to be more creative during the process
of working on the layout itself. YouTube videos and Instagram are a
big part of my inspiration. In-situ photography of poison dart frog
habitats often inspires me even more.

aquariumhobbyistmagazine.com Poison Dart Frogs 101 • 21

 SOFTSCAPE
The plants I use vary depending on what I want to see in the tank or
what is available to me at the time. If the plants originate or thrive in
a tropical climate and are not toxic to humans or animals, they will be
a good option. The chosen plants can be mounted on the branches,
background, and sides or pushed directly into the gravel, depending
on the layout of the hardscape. Cuttings that are not rooted can be
wrapped with some sphagnum moss around the base of the stem
to promote root development. Since the frog waste acts as a natural
fertilizer, nothing else is needed for the plants to flourish.

Plants from the genera Neoregelia and Vriesea (bromeliads) are

always included in my builds. These plants give a neotropical feel,
color, and vibe to the setup. They are often the most eye-catching
plants in the display. Some frogs, like the members of the Oophaga
genus (obligate egg feeders), even rely on the presence of brome-
liads to reproduce.
Oophaga sylvatica ˈParuˈ female

TEMPERATURE
My frogs are kept between 64.5 and 73.4° F during the winter and
between 68.0 and 79.0° F in the summer. This covers the night-day
temperature range. It’s highly recommended to avoid any tempera-
tures much lower or higher. There is room for a few degrees of
fluctuation, but it’s best avoided, especially for longer periods of time.

To heat the tanks, I depend on the heat produced by the tank lights.
I’m not a fan of aquarium heaters, heat mats, or cables, and I would
never recommend these since they can be unreliable. If one of these
fails just for a moment at the wrong time, you could end up with a
bunch of dead frogs.

It’s important to think about how the room temperature affects the
setup. For example, if your living room heats up to 86° F in the
summer, you might want to look for a room with a more stable
temperature.

Also, moving an enclosure once it’s up and running is not ideal. Think
Oophaga pumilio ˈBastimentos Red Frog Beachˈ male
of all the aquariums that have been broken this way. It’s the same
for vivariums or terrariums.

LIGHTING
Typically, any 4,000–6,500 K LED or T5 lamp will do. When looking
into lights designed for the vivarium hobby and tropical plantkeeping,
I always recommend the brand Skylight LED. The effects of this
fixture on plant color, growth, and health are unbelievable!

Keep in mind to always include shaded areas inside the vivarium.

Frogs will need shaded places to hide or shelter. Also, as Takayuki
Fukada explained in Green Aqua’s master class, the use of shadow
is important to create a successful and perfect scape. Who are we
to argue with that wisdom?

FEEDERS AND SUPPLEMENTS

A diverse diet is essential for keeping dart frogs in excellent health
and color. I mainly feed large and small species of Drosophila (fruit
flies). Aphids, mites, springtails, lice, isopods, meadow plankton, and
Oophaga histrionica ˈBullseyeˈ male
greenbugs are also on the weekly menu. Some of these are more

22 • Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine Second Quarter 2022

 Tadpole transport by an Oophaga pumilio ˈBastimentosˈ
than just a healthy snack. Springtails and isopods have the additional
benefit of working as a cleanup crew inside the enclosure. Think of
them as you would your snail and shrimp populations in an aquarium.
I use Repashy's Calcium Plus every feeding as a supplement, and
Vitamin A Plus is also fed twice a month to our breeding frogs to
boost their health. These supplements help complete the diet.
HUMIDITY
The ideal humidity for most Dendrobatidae is between 60 and 75
percent during the day and between 75 and 90 percent at night. The
best way to achieve this is with hand misting or with the installation
of an automated misting system. I recommend misting 3 to 5 times
a day for only a few seconds during your chosen wet season. This
allows your plants and substrate time to dry while maintaining the
humidity in the enclosure. I like to use RO water mixed with 20 per-
cent tap water. Pure RO isn’t ideal since you want a small amount
of minerals in the water for the frogs.
Often overlooked, yet of significant importance, is to also mimic
dry seasons to benefit the health of the frogs. The dry season is a
period when adult frogs take a break from breeding and reenergize.
For me, this is most easily simulated during my winter when the
temperatures are lower indoors and in the enclosures. During the
24 • Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine
Phyllobates terribilis ˈMintˈ juvenile
winter period of 3 months, I only mist once a day for a maximum
of 10 to 15 seconds. However, I do make sure the frogs always have
access to a small amount of fresh water in case they need it to help
shed or just want to soak. This can be in the form of a small dish of
water or water I add to an exposed drainage gutter depending on
the layout of the enclosure.
Tanks with permanent water features (drip walls or streams), better
known as paludariums, are becoming a common sight in the overall
aquatic and terrarium hobby. While they are perfectly suited for
housing amphibians or reptiles that thrive in a constantly wet envi-
ronment, they are not ideal for the majority of neotropical dart frogs.
The exceptions are those species that live close to streams and are
constantly exposed to a more humid microclimate. These include
members of the Epipedobates and Ameerega genera, which are
quite commonly kept as pets.
ACQUIRING FROGS AND THE COMMITMENT
Frogs can be acquired from stores, breeders, or reptile shows. Just
make sure the frogs originate from a reputable, ethical, and sustain-
able source. And before you make that purchase, remember that
most Dendrobatidae can live 20 or more years in captivity, so make
sure you are ready for this commitment. If you are, then I promise you
will enjoy every second of your indoor neotropical ecosystem. AH
Second Quarter 2022
 021
2
AG A
International Aquascaping Contest

T
he Aquatic Gardeners Association is excited to announce
the highly anticipated results of our 2021 International
Aquascaping Contest. The contest had another banner year,
with over 700 aquascapes represented in seven aquatic garden cat-
egories and four specialty categories. Some beautiful aquatic garden
aquascapes were entered in this year’s contest, including “Synergy,”
the 2021 Best of Show designed by Matthew Israel O’ Manes from
the Philippines, and “Silent Pool,” created by Steven Chong of the
United States/Japan. These two aquascapes were just a couple of
the standouts among the many tanks entered this year.

In addition to the strong showing in the aquatic garden catego-

ries, the specialty categories were also very well represented.
Aquascapers from the United States did extremely well in this year’s
biotope category, taking all three places in the contest and also
placing first in the Dutch aquascape category. In the other specialty
categories, the skills of the aquascapers have elevated dramatically,
resulting in intricate and beautiful paludariums and Wabi-kusas that
combine elements of both aquatic and terrestrial elements.

For the 2021 contest, our panel of judges included Dave Chow,
Jhonny Vanegas Cardenas, Marvin Lo, Andre Longarco, Esther
Mous, Jennifer Williams, Karen Randall, Marco Aukes, Vin Kutty,
Nick Kinser, Hans-Georg Evers, Cory Nudelman, Jo Ann Fujii, and
Bailin Shaw. For more photos and information on the aquascapes,
judges’ comments, and all entries from this and previous years, visit
showcase.aquatic-gardeners.org.

Bailin Shaw, AGA Contest Chair

About the Author

Bailin received his first aquarium for Christmas when he was 5 years
old. He has kept an aquarium off and on ever since, becoming more
involved with planted aquariums during graduate school. He is a
founding member of the Chicago Aquatic Plant Society. Bailin began
serving as the AGA International Aquascaping Contest Chair in 2007
and has judged the contest in past years.

26 • Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine Second Quarter 2022

 Zura ula
Aquascaper: Agoes Effendi
Category: <28 L (~7.5 gallons)
Location: Benkulu, Indonesia
Award: 1st Place

Aquascape Details
Dimensions: ~16” × 10” × 10”
Volume: ~7 gallons
Background: sunblast
Lighting: (2) Kandila S 400, Kandila wrgb 400
Filtration: canister
Materials: Rentek wood, lava rock, bk
carnivorous sand
Plants: Weeping Moss, Riccardia sp.,
Bucephalandra (moss), Rotala rotundifolia
'Green', Rotala rotundifolia 'H’ra'
Animals: Red Cherry Shrimp, Guppy AFR

aquariumhobbyistmagazine.com 2021 AGA International Aquascaping Contest • 27

28 • Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine Second Quarter 2022
 Through the Canyon
Aquascaper: Luis Filipe Samora Cardoso
Category: 28–55 L (~7–15 gallons)
Location: Aldeia de Santo Andre, Portugal
Award: 1st Place

Aquascape Details
Dimensions: 18” × 11” × 12”
Volume: ~9.5 gallons
Background: Lightground
Lighting: Twinstar III 450SA
Filtration: OASE FiltoSmart 200
Materials: Thai Stone
Plants: Rotala sp. 'Green', Rotala sp. 'H’ra', Micranthemum
tweediei 'Monte Carlo', Hemianthus callitrichoides
'Cuba', Riccardia chamedryfolia, Cryptocoryne parva,
Cryptocoryne wendtii 'Flamingo', Anubias barteri var. nana
'Petite', Anubias barteri var. nana
Animals: (10) Brevibora dorsiocellata, Crystal Red Shrimp,
Blue Dream Shrimp

Rays Among the

Greens
Aquascaper: Tereza Lazar
Category: 55–80 L (~15–21 gallons)
Location: Uzhhorod, Ukraine
Award: 1st Place

Aquascape Details
Dimensions: ~24” × 16” × 12”
Volume: ~20 gallons
Lighting: Life Aqua Prime 600
Filtration: Eheim Classic 2213
Materials: Seiryu Stone, Prodibio AquaGrowth Soil
Plants: Fissidens sp. ˈFoxˈ, Riccardia chamedryfolia,
Vesicularia sp. 'Mini Christmas Moss', Weeping Moss,
Bubble Moss, Taxiphyllum sp. 'Flame', Hemianthus
micranthemoides, Hemianthus callitrichoides 'Cuba',
Rotala macrandra 'Butterfly', Rotala sp. 'Sunset' (Ammania
sp. 'Sulawesi'), Rotala sp. 'Bangladesh', Rotala mexicana
'Goias', Gratiola viscidula, Bolbitis sp., Lindernia sp.,
Eleocharis sp. 'Mini', Anubias barteri var. nana 'Petite',
Anubias barteri var. nana 'Pangolino', Hymenasplenium
obscurum, Bucephalandra spp., Marsilea minuta, Bolbitis
sp. 'Baby Leaf', Marsilea quadrifolia, Alternanthera reineckii
'Mini'
Animals: Boraras brigittae, Red Cherry Shrimp,
Theodoxus fluviatilis

aquariumhobbyistmagazine.com 2021 AGA International Aquascaping Contest • 29

Spike’s Valley
Aquascaper: Thiago Gonçalves de Oliveira
Category: 80–162 L (~21–43 gallons)
Location: São Paulo, Brazil
Award: 1st Place

Aquascape Details
Dimensions: ~32” × 16” × 14”
Volume: ~30 gallons
Background: foggy background
Lighting: Maxspect RSX R5F-150
Filtration: ADA Super Jet Filter ES-600, Eheim Ecco
Pro 2236
Materials: Ryuoh Stone, SOMA Pebble Black, ADA
La Plata Sand
Plants: Marsilea quadrifolia, Micranthemum sp. 'Monte
Carlo', Eleocharis minima, Hygrophila pinnatifida,
Microsorum pteropus 'Windelov', Anubias barteri var.
nana 'Pangolino', Bucephalandra sp., Limnophila sp.
'Vietnam', Rotala sp. 'Nanjenshan', Rotala mexicana,
Rotala rotundifolia, Rotala sp. 'H’ra', Rotala wallichii,
Rotala sp. 'Green', Rotala sp. 'Wayanad', Rotala sp.
'Francisco', Rotala sp. 'Vietnam', Fissidens fontanus
Animals: Trigonostigma hengeli, Danio margaritatus,
Parotocinclus haroldoi
Additional Information: In this layout, I try to
represent a valley formed in antiquity where the rocks
come out of an open crack in the ground, after a
seismic event.

Eternal
Aquascaper: Chen Han-Hsuan
Category: 162–220 L (~43–58 gallons)
Location: Tainin, Taiwan
Award: 1st Place

Aquascape Details
Dimensions: ~36” × 20” × 16”
Volume: ~48 gallons
Lighting: (2) 39-watt HAGEN T5s, ISTA RGB LED
Filtration: Tetra EX-120
Materials: local driftwood and stones
Plants: Limnophila sp. 'South America', Myriophyllum
spicatum from Philippines, Microsorum pteropus
'Trident', Mini Taiwan Moss, Bolbitis heudelotii,
Lilaeopsis brasiliensis, Bucephalandra
Animals: Trigonostigma heteromorpha

30 • Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine Second Quarter 2022

aquariumhobbyistmagazine.com 2021 AGA International Aquascaping Contest • 31
32 • Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine Second Quarter 2022
Synergy
Aquascaper: Matthew Israel O' Manes
Category: 220–320 L (~58–85 gallons)
Location: Paranaque, Philippines
Award: 1st Place

Aquascape Details
Dimensions: ~48” × 18” × 18”
Volume: ~64 gallons
Background: white sticker
Lighting: (2) Week Aqua L series (Phoenix), 120 watts, WRGB
Filtration: (2) Sunsun HW-304b, ceramic ring, Seachem Purigen
Materials: slate
Plants: Monte Carlo, Hemianthus callitrichoides, Schismatoglottis
prietoi, Glossostigma elatinoides, Bucephalandra sp. 'Mini
Phantom', Bucephalandra sp., Bucephalandra sp. 'Angel Tears',
Marsilea crenata, Christmas Moss, Coral Moss, Hydrocotyle
tripartita 'Mini', Rotala sp. 'Colorata', Pearl Weed, Ludwigia arcuata,
Christmas Moss
Animals: Golden Rummy Nose
Additional Information: APT Estimate Index, Seachem
Advance, Seachem Stability, Seachem Excel, ADA Amazonia
Ver. 2, ADA soil additives, white cosmetic sand

Hoia-Baciu
Aquascaper: Marçal Galí Bohera
Category: Paludarium
Location: Roses, Spain
Award: 1st Place

Aquascape Details
Dimensions: ~24” × 14” × 14”
Volume: ~21 gallons
Lighting: Chihiros WRGB
Filtration: Eheim 2211
Materials: Aquario Neo Soil, JBL ProScape Volcano Mineral,
slate rock, Cistus wood
Plants: Hemianthus callitrichoides, Bolbitis heteroclita 'Difformis',
Euonymus japonicus 'Microphyllus', Polypodium formosanum,
Adiantum raddianum, Athyrium niponicum, Andreaeobryopsida,
Masdevallia minuta, Pyrrosia nummularifolia, Anubias barteri var.
nana 'Bonsai', Hydrocotyle verticillata, Bucephalandra sp. 'Wavy
Leaf', Platyhypnidium riparioides
Animals: Heterandria formosa, Red Cherry Shrimp
Additional Information: Inspired by Hoia-Baciu Forest

aquariumhobbyistmagazine.com 2021 AGA International Aquascaping Contest • 33

Flooded Forest Tributary of the Rio Negro
Aquascaper: Alex Wenchel
Category: Biotope
Location: Alexandria, Virginia (USA)
Award: 1st Place

Aquascape Details
Dimensions: ~36” × 18” × 9”
Volume: ~24 gallons
Background: expanding foam coated in blended aqua soil and sand
Lighting: low-intensity strip light
Filtration: large Fluval canister filter
Materials: several "fallen" logs (buoyant for 6 months prior to sinking), leaf litter made up of dried Willow Oak leaves and a blend of
almond leaves and other commercially available botanicals. Slope built using expanding foam coated in blended aqua soil and sand.
Animals: (10) Paracheirodon axelrodi (Cardinal Tetra)
Additional Information: This biotope was built to recreate the flooded forest floor I witnessed while visiting the small tributaries of the
Rio Negro River, itself a tributary of the Amazon. The flooded forest floor is covered in leaves, fallen branches, and stumps in the process
of decay. While the water is a crystal clear amber, a layer of mulm coats everything, and the slightest disturbance will fill the water with
flecks of brownish gray.

34 • Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine Second Quarter 2022

Forest in the Wind
Aquascaper: Pavol Kulanda
Category: >320 L (~85 gallons)
Location: Cookstown, United Kingdom
Award: 1st Place

Aquascape Details
Dimensions: ~48” × 24” × 18”
Volume: ~86 gallons
Background: frosted film
Lighting: (2) Life Aqua Master Pro RGB 70-watt lamps
Filtration: ADA Super Jet, Eheim Pro 3 T250
Materials: Redmoor roots, mangrove driftwood, ironwood, ancient roots, local basalt stone, cosmetic silica sand, Prodibio AquaGrowth
soil, Prodibio Relief G-Series gravel
Plants: Anubias barteri var. nana 'Mini', Anubias barteri var. nana 'Coin Leaf', Bucephalandra sp., Riccardia chamedryfolia, Fissidens
fontanus, Vesicularia ferriei 'Weeping', Fontinalis antipyretica, Micranthemum tweediei 'Monte Carlo', Hydrocotyle tripartita 'Mini',
Hydrocotyle verticillata, Hygrophila pinnatifida, Marsilea hirsuta, Cryptocoryne albida 'Lucens', Cryptocoryne beckettii, Microsorum
pteropus 'Petite', Microsorum pteropus 'Windelov', Microsorum pteropus 'Trident', Bolbitis heudelotii, Ceratopteris thalictroides,
Glossostigma elatinoides, Eleocharis parvula, Vallisneria nana, Myriophyllum sp. 'Guyana', Myriophyllum propinquum, Myriophyllum
pinnatum, Myriophyllum mattogrossense, Rotala sp. 'H’ra', Rotala sp. 'Green'
Animals: Trigonostigma hengeli, Prionobrama filigera, Aphyocharax rathbuni, Crossocheilus siamensis, Otocinclus affinis, Neocaridina
davidi 'Red Sakura', Caridina cantonensis 'Orange Tiger', Caridina multidentata, Clithon corona, Zebra Nerite Snails
Additional Information: pressurized CO2 30 mg/L by CO2Art, daily fertilization routine by MasterLine (All In One Soil, All In One
Golden, and Carbo), 80 percent water change weekly

36 • Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine Second Quarter 2022

Community
Aquascaper: Gavin Carew
Category: Dutch
Location: Seattle, Washington (USA)
Award: 1st Place

Aquascape Details
Dimensions: ~36” × 12” × 12”
Volume: ~22 gallons
Background: Mini Christmas Moss
Lighting: Chihiros WRGB LED
Filtration: Oase BioMaster 250
Plants: Hydrocotyle leucocephala, Myriophyllum sp. 'Guyana Mini',
Alternanthera reineckii 'Variegated', Rotala macrandra 'Green',
Lobelia cardinalis, Ammannia pedicellata 'Golden', Hemianthus
callitrichoides 'Cuba', Hygrophila difformis, Vallisneria spiralis
'Tiger'
Animals: (14) Hyphessobrycon amandae, (10) Corydoras
pygmaeus, (5) Tanichthys albonubes, Cherry Shrimp, Otocinclus
sp., pond snails
Additional Information: All plants, livestock, and equipment
were procured through members of the Greater Seattle Aquarium
Society and GSAS sponsors. This is both a community tank and a
tank very much built by the community.

aquariumhobbyistmagazine.com 2021 AGA International Aquascaping Contest • 37

Little Beauty
Aquascaper: Mathias Berg Offersen
Category: Wabi-Kusa
Location: Næstved, Denmark
Award: 1st Place

Aquascape Details
Dimensions: ~12” × 7” × 5”
Volume: ~2 gallons
Lighting: ONF Flat Nano Plus
Filtration: none
Materials: Tropica soil, DOOA river sand, black lava rock, driftwood
Plants: Alternanthera reineckii 'Mini', Hydrocotyle tripartita, Taxiphyllum alternans 'Taiwan', Juncus repens, Hydrocotyle verticillata,
Myriophyllum sp. 'Guyana'
Animals: Neocaridina davidi 'Red Sakura', Clithon corona AH

38 • Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine Second Quarter 2022

Is Digital Monitoring and
Testing Right for You?
By Jim Adelberg

About the Author
Jim Adelberg is a hobbyist from southern Colorado with over 40 years'
experience keeping aquariums in the home, in retail stores, and in
public institutions.
F
irst, a disclaimer: I grew up in this hobby at a time when there
was no digital equipment. I learned to keep aquariums based
mostly on observation and by trying to develop the ever elu-
sive “feel.” So I’m not going to be judging anyone for their choices
of how to pursue the hobby. In this piece, I will detail a few of the
shortcomings of analog monitoring and testing, and I will suggest
that you should consider digital options as soon as you know you’ll
be sticking with the hobby. Read along and let’s see if you agree.

40 • Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine Second Quarter 2022

 Many factors can reduce the reliability and accuracy
of test results that require human visual analysis.

It's a safe bet that your first aquarium came with a basic test kit or
a recommendation for one. You may have been advised to adjust
to certain pH targets, and you may have been told to monitor the
nitrogen cycle to assess when the tank was cycled. You may also
have discovered that liquid reagent/color card tests are subject
to a variety of inaccuracies that make it difficult to be 100 percent
sure of the results. Some of these are obvious, and some are more
unlikely, but here’s a few potential problems off the top of my head.

Test sample size: Reading a meniscus accurately takes practice

(whether in a syringe or test tube), and with some tests, the original
sample size is important.

Contaminated dropper/vial: Did you wash and thoroughly air dry

the test-kit parts since the last test?

Expired reagents: Are your reagents fresh? Do you have a standard

to check them against?

Reagent amount: Are you absolutely sure that each and every drop
you squeeze from a reagent bottle is exactly the same size? Of
course not!

Colorimetric reference cards: I have seen test kit color reference

cards with misprinted color registers.

Color assessment variables: The human eye will register colors dif-
ferently depending on color density, ambient lighting, and, obviously,
the degree and type of any color blindness. The simple fact is that
no two people are likely to see any color the same.

How much does all this matter? For your first aquarium, and espe-
cially if your results are being checked by a local store that wants
to sell you fish once your tank is cycled, not too much. But as soon
as you begin moving past those first few months, I think it’s worth
buying digital monitoring and testing equipment. I’d say this should
even be acquired before a second tank.

Let’s consider a typical situation where you’re doing a water

change and need to match the new water’s temperature and pH
values to those of the tank. Do you have a dedicated thermome-
ter for your water-change container? Is it standardized against the
tank thermometer? If you’re moving the tank thermometer to the

aquariumhobbyistmagazine.com Is Digital Monitoring and Testing Right for You? • 41

 everything you need in a combination
meter up front rather than add a new
meter every time you want accurate
results for a new parameter. To fine-
tune this decision, try to think of what
direction you want to take in the hobby.
What parameters do you consider criti-
cal that you’re planning to test regularly?
For example, if you plan to keep shrimp,
you should consider meters with general
hardness (GH) and carbonate hardness
(KH) capabilities, especially given the
challenges of titrated color-change kits.
If you plan to inject CO2 in a planted tank,
you might balance the CO2 feed based
on pH, but you may want to monitor dis-
solved oxygen as well for safety. And if
you keep soft-water fish (discus come
to mind), you may want to monitor the
water’s conductivity or total dissolved
solids (TDS). Lastly, if you keep a system
with a high bioload or a heavy feeding
regimen, a nitrate reading may be the
easiest way to monitor such systems for
needed water changes.

I’m also going to make a pitch for digital

temperature capabilities on whatever
you buy. Sure, you may only have one
tank and one water-change container
now, but the inaccuracies of analog
thermometers plus the time they take to
register an accurate reading argue for
Frequent water testing is required for fish that are sensitive to parameter swings, like discus. the inclusion of digital temperature mon-
itoring on whatever meter you choose.
water-change container, how long are you supposed to wait for the thermometer to give an
accurate reading? Do you actually need digital equip-
ment? I would ask that in a different
Let’s consider matching the pH. In addition to whatever uncertainties are inherent in the test (as way. If you can’t be sure the results are
listed above), in a best-case scenario, you need to conduct at least two tests: one for the tank accurate, why bother testing? And if
and one for the water-change water. If they match, you’re good to go! But if they don’t, you’re there’s a bunch of uncertainty built into
consigned to do as many tests as it takes to slowly match the pH. Three, four, five tests…with the testing process, are you willing to
thorough rinsing in between. Eventually, the time, effort, and reagents required all begin to add make life and death decisions for your
up. And this probably needs to be done every week. Of course, with a digital thermometer/pH fish based on those results? Lastly, if the
pen, you could do all this far quicker, in less space, and with no reagents. In my opinion, this test consumes a bunch of time, space,
is the perfect time to upgrade to digital equipment. The inclusion of a good digital meter early and supplies to conduct, will you test as
on in your progression as a hobbyist will save you time and frustration and may even save the often as you would if it were cheap, easy,
lives of your pets. As you consider the available options, keep in mind that it’s cheaper to buy and fast? AH

42 • Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine Second Quarter 2022

RIO RIVER STREAM
By Russell Wiggin

N
ature. It really inspired me to create this tank. I have nature and other so-called booster chemicals. Just the right lighting, a good
walks where I live, with lovely wild streams that instantly maintenance routine, and live plants.
bring me a calm state of mind. I wanted that peaceful stream
environment at home too. This scape won first place in a tank-of-the-year competition at
Tropical Fish Forums (fishforums.net).
This tank is at the beginning of its journey, but I think it already shows
that low-tech setups can look good too. No need for CO2, aqua soils, Aquarium
Tank: Juwel Rio 180
Dimensions: 40” × 16” × 20”
Glass: float glass
Volume: 48 gallons
Cabinet: Juwel
About the Author
Aquascape
Russell Wiggin lives in Staffordshire, England, and has been a hobbyist Style: low-tech planted
since 2018. His pro tip is for hobbyists to check out Tropical Fish Substrate: play sand
Forums (fishforums.net) for info and advice. Stone: river rock, pebbles

44 • Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine Second Quarter 2022

Wood: bogwood
Other: Indian almond leaves

Equipment
Lighting: (2) Juwel iQuatics 45-watt T5s, 8-hour photoperiod
Filter: Juwel Bioflow internal filter, large sponge filter
Filter Media: fine, medium, and coarse sponges, ceramic rings
Filter Plumbing: Juwel outlet pipe with air diffuser
Heating: (2) Tetra HT200s with ITC-306T dual controller

Maintenance
Water Changes: 50 percent once a week
Fertilizers: Seachem Flourish liquid for floating plants, Seachem
Flourish Tabs for substrate plants

Food
Live Foods: Cyclops, Daphnia
Commercial Foods: Mysis; Omega One Tropical Flakes, Shrimp
Pellets, and Veggie Rounds; Fluval Bug Bites Tropical Formula

I feed a variety of prepared foods once a day, 5 days per week, and
live foods once a week. I skip feeding one day per week.

Water Parameters
pH: 7.4
Ammonia: 0 ppm
Nitrite: 0 ppm
Nitrate: 10 ppm
Carbonate Hardness: 7°
General Hardness: 9.1°

Pearl Gouramis and Cardinal Tetras

aquariumhobbyistmagazine.com Rio River Stream • 45

Plants
‒ Cryptocoryne beckettii
‒ Cryptocoryne wendtii
‒ Cryptocoryne × willisii
‒ Cryptocoryne parva
‒ Cryptocoryne lutea
‒ Cryptocoryne lucens
‒ Rotala indica
‒ Amazon Sword
‒ Hygrophila sp.
‒ moss balls
‒ Water Sprite (floating)

Fish
‒ Cardinal Tetra (Paracheirodon axelrodi)
‒ Rummy-nose Tetra (Hemigrammus rhodostomus)
‒ Pearl Gourami (Trichopodus leerii)
‒ Pepper Cory (Corydoras paleatus)
‒ Bristlenose Pleco (Ancistrus cirrhosus)

Invertebrates
‒ Malaysian Trumpet Snails AH

46 • Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine Second Quarter 2022