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Textile Applications KLIND


Textile ---- Things around You----- A snapshot

1. Cotton Yarns. 21. Machine made Carpets


2. Woolen yarns 22. Bedsheets
3. Cotton Shirts 23. Polyester based Blankets
4. Cotton T shirts 24. Woolen blankets
5. Cotton Handkerchiefs 25. Bathroom Rugs
6. Woolen Shawls 26. Polyester/ Fabric Based DoorMats
7. Woolen Sweaters 27. Pillow Covers
8. Woolen Scarfs 28. Car Seats
9. Denim Jeans 29. Hospital Masks
10. Suitings/ Tie 30. Shoe Laces
11. Trousers/ Pants 31. Outer perforated cover on sports Shoes
12. Men Undergarments 32. Geo Textiles used in Construction
13. Women Undergarments 33. Mosquito Nets
14. Denim Jackets 34. Door and Window Curtains
15. Sarees 35. Travelling Bags
16. Designer outfits 36. Non woven based Carry Bags
17. Socks 37. Non woven based Material Handling Bags
18. Towels 38. Synthetic Yarns
19. Embroidery based clothes 39. Non woven based Filter materials
20. Printed Fabrics 40. Technical Textiles like Travelling Tents etc.
19.08.2017 / Slide 3 Training Department / Textile Industry

YARN FORMING
Introduction

Stretch spinning is the process of drawing out and twisting fibres in order to join them
firmly together in a continuous thread or yarn. Extrusion spinning involves the
production of individual fibres, either naturally, as in the case of the silk worm, or using
physical and chemical processes as in the manufacture of man-made fibres.

Spinning preparation also includes the stage at which any undesired foreign matter is
separated from the carded material, especially in the case of natural fibres, which
facilitates the subsequent yarn generating process.
19.08.2017 / Slide 4 Training Department / Textile Industry

Introduction

Cotton is a vegetable fibre which, in its natural state, is found in flocks.

After it has been subjected to adequate processes, cotton can be spun like other fibres.
Cotton consists of short fibres.

Wool (animal fibre) has to be cleaned of any impurities and washed before spinning.
The wool spinning process is similar to cotton spinning. The machines are adapted to
the properties of wool and the length of the fibres. Wool is long-fibred.
19.08.2017 / Slide 5 Training Department / Textile Industry

Introduction

Classification of fibres

Natural fibres

Vegetable Animal (proteins) Mineral


(cellulose)

Asbestos
Vegetable Bast fibres Hard Wool/ Hair Natural silk
fibres fibres

Cotton Linen Sisal


Of sheep, Pure silk,
Kapok Hemp Coconut
goat, Wild silk,
Jute fibre
camel, Filature
etc.
horse
19.08.2017 / Slide 6 Training Department / Textile Industry

From Fibre to Textiles

3. Finishing

Washing/ Bleaching/ Alkaline Treatment

Mercerising

Dyeing

Flat Screen Printing/ Rotary Screen Printing

Dryer

Steamer

Hot Flue Stenter Frame


19.08.2017 / Slide 7 Training Department / Textile Industry

Textile finishing machines

Textile finishing

The purpose of textile finishing is to modify the aspect, colour, feel, or general
characteristics of textile fabrics so that they meet the current fashion requirements and
maintain or extend their usable life.

While bleaching, dying and printing processes determine the colour and resistance of
the fabric, thermosetting influences other characteristics, such as the surface stability
and resistance to creasing.

Water is the main medium used in bleaching, washing and dying. It may be assumed
that water treatments account for 90 to 95 %. The remaining 5 to 10 % are processes
involving the use of solvents, such as perchloroethyl-ene or trichloroethylene.
19.08.2017 / Slide 8 Training Department / Textile Industry

From Fibre to Textiles

3. Finishing

Washing/ Bleaching/ Alkaline Treatment

Mercerising

Dyeing

Flat Screen Printing/ Rotary Screen Printing

Dryer

Steamer

Hot Flue Stenter Frame


19.08.2017 / Slide 9 Training Department / Textile Industry

Stenters

Objective

Textile stenters are used in textile finishing for:

- stretching
- smoothing
- straightening (with the aid of weft straighteners)
- drying (after wet treatment)
- thermo-setting (avoid wrinkling)
- coating (eg application of a special plastic layer)

The fabric is stretched between an endless transport chains.


Clips, with or without a needle bar, are attached to the chain and hold the fabric.
19.08.2017 / Slide 10 Training Department / Textile Industry

Stenters

The cloth entry, drying and exit zones can be adjusted in width to allow the cloth to be
stretched to the sides.

The edges of the cloth are pressed onto the clips equipped with needle bars by means
of a rotary brush. A wet fabric may, for instance, be stretched, dryed in the drying
section, cooled down and eventually set.

The finished cloth can then either be folded or rolled in a special discharge area.
19.08.2017 / Slide 11 Training Department / Textile Industry

Stenters

Main manufacturers of stenters and dryers:

Germany Babcock, Brückner, Krantz, Monforts

Great Britain Gordon Whitely, Proctor & Schwartz,


Mather & Platt, Farmer Norton

France Aigle, Air Industrie, Amdes S.A.

Italy Reggiani, Santa Locia, Mozzi Daglish, Comerio


Muzzi Gessner

Japan Mitsubishi, Thoray

United States Morrison, Marshall and Williams

Brasil Texima
19.08.2017 / Slide 12 Training Department / Textile Industry

Stenters

Design and operation

There are two major types of stenters:

- single-layer stenter with vertical or horizontal return chain

- multi-layer stenter with vertical return chain


19.08.2017 / Slide 13 Training Department / Textile Industry

Stenters

Single-layer stenter with vertical chain


19.08.2017 / Slide 14 Training Department / Textile Industry

Stenters

Single-layer stenter with horizontal chain


19.08.2017 / Slide 15 Training Department / Textile Industry

Stenters

The main components of stenters with drying and cooling sections are:

1. Special accessory units

Accessory equipment for the application of special dyes or finishing agents. Steam
equipment used for special surface treatment of the fabric. Weft straighteners for
checked or cross-striped fabrics.

Lubrication points

Guiding systems at the fabric entry section (rollers, cylinders) are lubricated
exclusively with the lubricants recommended or prescribed for the entire machinery.
19.08.2017 / Slide 16 Training Department / Textile Industry

Stenters

Fabric entry section


19.08.2017 / Slide 17 Training Department / Textile Industry

Stenters

2. Cloth entry with chains, chain transporter and chain guides

After the dry or wet cloth has been spread out by the scroll rollers, the rolled-up edges of the
cloth (selvedges) are opened by so-called finger uncurlers (or selvedge spreaders). A draw-in
roller makes it possible to advance the cloth to enable uniform tensioning of the material.
19.08.2017 / Slide 18 Training Department / Textile Industry

Stenters

Fabric supply with endless chain transporter (Trigema)


19.08.2017 / Slide 19 Training Department / Textile Industry

Stenters

Vertically or horizontally circulating chains are used to transport the fabric.

Vertical return chains


Vertical return chains are used in single or multi-layer stenters or dryers.
19.08.2017 / Slide 20 Training Department / Textile Industry

Stenters

Horizontal return chains


Horizontal return chains are used in single-layer stenters and dryers.
19.08.2017 / Slide 21 Training Department / Textile Industry

Stenters

Chain types for horizontal or vertical chain conveyors (KOLB)

Pin link for needle chains

Combined pin clip


Stenter clip with clip
chains
19.08.2017 / Slide 22 Training Department / Textile Industry

Stenters

Chains with horizontal chain guides (Famatex)

The running surface of the ball bearings on additional elements (eg needle bars) absorbs
transverse tensional forces.

The dual slideways on which the steel sliding plates run absorb the weight of both the
chain and the cloth. The slide rails may be made of self-lubricating materials or materials
requiring only minimum lubrication.

A bronze cover plate covers the steel chain rail from the top, securing the chain in the
rail.
19.08.2017 / Slide 23 Training Department / Textile Industry

Stenters

Chains with vertical return chain guides (Famatex)

This type of chain is made up by the following components:

- upper ball bearing


- lower ball bearing
- chain rollers of the main chain (roller chain)
- needle bar

Lubrication of ball bearing tension chain systems (Famatex, Krantz, Brückner)

Lubrication is performed by an automatic chain lubrication system (intermittent spraying).


Supplies the chain rollers, chain links, slideways and ball bearings.
19.08.2017 / Slide 24 Training Department / Textile Industry

Stenters

Textile chain systems


19.08.2017 / Slide 25 Training Department / Textile Industry

Stenters

Brückner chains
(horizontal)
19.08.2017 / Slide 26 Training Department / Textile Industry

Stenters

Width adjustment

Cloth width is adjusted automatically


by a gear or a width adjustment
spindle.

High-temperature lubricating oils are


required for width adjustment gears Width adjustment
which, due to their design, are inside spindles
the stenter. For width adjustment
spindles or rack gears a dry lubricant
film is applied to the surface.
19.08.2017 / Slide 27 Training Department / Textile Industry

Stenters

Width adjustment spindle (Trigema)


19.08.2017 / Slide 28 Training Department / Textile Industry

Stenters

3. Drying, cooling and setting

The cloth passes the entire length of the machine, which may have a number of
drying zones. The number of drying zones depends on the weight and the desired
speed of the cloth. For certain fabrics heat setting temperatures are up to 250 °C.

The drying air is generated by indirect (steam, thermal oil) or direct (gas) heating
systems and circulated by means of fans. The arrangement of circulating and
exhaust fans varies depending on the type of system and manufacturer.
19.08.2017 / Slide 29 Training Department / Textile Industry

Stenters

The bearings of externally mounted fans are


subject to moderate temperatures. The bearings
are lubricated with a temperature-resistant long-
term grease.

Bearings exposed directly to the hot air flow


have to be lubricated with a high-temperature
grease.
19.08.2017 / Slide 30 Training Department / Textile Industry

Stenters
120 mm
Main lubrication points of a stenter thermal
Generously
insula-
tion dimensioned Exhaust
Control centre Economy lubrication device Air-circulation Nozzle Remo-
layer sliding doors fan
axial-flow fan body in vable
operating end Door
Upper nozzle
position plate seal
body raised
for
inspection/
maintenance
purposes

Adjustable air guiding flap at each


Lint screen joint between compartments
Gas heater
(slide-in)
Motorized basic-
Lateral fabric-
width adjuster
slit cover
19.08.2017 / Slide 31 Training Department / Textile Industry

Stenters

Application Klüber Lubricant Remarks

Klübersynth CTH 2-260 Fully synthetic high-


Fabric conveyor chain temperature and high-
HOTEMP PLUS
performance chain oils
PRIMIUM FLUID SPECIAL

Chains equipped with BARRIERTA L 55/2 Synthetic high-


rolling bearings UNISILKON L 50/2 temperature greases

Needle bars Semi-automatic application


UNISILKON M 2000 Spray
Clip tables by means of a drop oiler or
UNISILKON TK 002/100 circulating brush wheel
19.08.2017 / Slide 32 Training Department / Textile Industry

Stenters

Application Klüber Lubricant Remarks

Electric motor PETAMO GHY 133 N


bearings High-temperature and long-
term lubricating greases
Fan bearings PETAMO GHY 193

Width adjustment Bonded coating on MoS2 basis


MOLYKOMBIN UMF T4 Spray
spindle forming a dry lubricant film
resistant to temperatures
up to 450°C
19.08.2017 / Slide 33 Training Department / Textile Industry

From Fibre to Textiles

3. Finishing

Washing/ Bleaching/ Alkaline Treatment

Mercerising

Dyeing

Flat Screen Printing/ Rotary Screen Printing

Dryer

Steamer

Hot Flue Stenter Frame


19.08.2017 / Slide 34 Training Department / Textile Industry

Hot Flue

Objective

In a hot flue the cloth is dried with hot air (approx. 180 - 230 °C). They are used for non-stretch
drying of cloth treated with the most diverse finishing techniques.

Critical lubrication points

The critical lubrication points in a hot flue are:


- the fan bearings and
- the reversing roller bearings
19.08.2017 / Slide 35 Training Department / Textile Industry

Hot Flue

BABCOCK HOT FLUE


19.08.2017 / Slide 36 Training Department / Textile Industry

Hot Flue

Manufacturers of hot flues

Babcock (Moenus Group) Germany


Benninger Switzerland
Brückner Germany
Fleissner Germany
Intes Italy
Mageba Germany
Menzel Germany
Monforts Germany
19.08.2017 / Slide 37 Training Department / Textile Industry

From Fibre to Textiles

3. Finishing

Washing/ Bleaching/ Alkaline Treatment

Mercerising

Dyeing
Flat Screen Printing/ Rotary Screen Printing

Dryer

Steamer

Hot Flue Stenter Frame


19.08.2017 / Slide 38 Training Department / Textile Industry

Mercerising Machine

Objective
While the bleaching process essentially destroys the natural pigments (at high temperatures) in
textile fibres, in the mercerising process cold concentrated sodium hydroxide is applied to obtain
certain desired properties, e. g. better sheen, stronger handling and better absorptive power, in
cotton yarns and textile surfaces.

Critical lubrication points


- guide roller bearings
- cylinder bearings
19.08.2017 / Slide 39 Training Department / Textile Industry

Mercerising Machine

Manufacturers of mercerising machines


Benninger Switzerland
Dornier Germany
Farmer Norton Great Britain
Goller Germany
Küsters Germany
Menzel Germany
Morrison USA
Muzzi Italy
Sperotto Rimar Italy
19.08.2017 / Slide 40 Training Department / Textile Industry

Mercerising Machine

Application Klüber Lubricant Remarks

Mercerising machine: STABURAGS NBU 12 Long-life grease


reversing rollers for high loads
or with special resistance
to media
as above and corrosion
STABURAGS NBU 12/ 300 KP protection

Wringers: STABURAGS NBU 12 see above


cylinder bearings
or Long-life lubricating grease
for high specific bearing loads
and wear protection above
STABURAGS NBU 8 EP normal. Resistance to hot water
up to 90°C.
19.08.2017 / Slide 41 Training Department / Textile Industry

From Fibre to Textiles

3. Finishing

Washing/ Bleaching/ Alkaline Treatment

Mercerising

Dyeing

Flat Screen Printing/ Rotary Screen Printing

Dryer

Steamer

Hot Flue Stenter Frame


19.08.2017 / Slide 42 Training Department / Textile Industry

Bleaching and Dying Unit (high temperature)

Objective
In contrast to continuous bleaching and dying units, these machines are used for discontinuous
(batch-processed) bleaching or dying of yarns, flocks, slivers and fabrics.

Since the operating temperature in bleaching or dying units can be up to 140 °C, they are
referred to as high-temperature units.

Critical lubrication points:


- door seals
- electric motor bearings
- pump bearings
19.08.2017 / Slide 43 Training Department / Textile Industry

Bleaching and Dying Unit (high temperature)

Bleaching or dying machines for unit load (Krantz)


19.08.2017 / Slide 44 Training Department / Textile Industry

Bleaching and Dying Unit (high temperature)

Manufacturers of bleaching and dying units

Benninger Germany
Brückner Germany
Dornier Germany
Farmer Norton Great Britain
Goller Germany
Küsters Germany
Menzel Germany
Morrison USA
19.08.2017 / Slide 45 Training Department / Textile Industry

Bleaching and Dying Unit (high temperature)

Application Klüber Lubricant Remarks

Door seal of HT unit Fully synthetic speacial grease


SYNTHESO PROBA 270 for rubber seals. Neutral
towards natural and synthetic
rubber.

Electric motor bearings PETAMO GHY 133 N Long-life and


high-temperature grease

Pump bearings Long-life lubricating grease for


STABURAGS NBU 12 high loads and with special
resistance to media
19.08.2017 / Slide 46 Training Department / Textile Industry

From Fibre to Textiles

3. Finishing

Washing/ Bleaching/ Alkaline Treatment

Mercerising

Dyeing

Flat Screen Printing/ Rotary Screen Printing

Dryer

Steamer

Hot Flue Stenter Frame


19.08.2017 / Slide 47 Training Department / Textile Industry

Rotary Printing Machines

Objective

The dye is applied by means of screens in flatbed or rotary printing machines. In the fletbed
printing machine the cloth is moved step-by-step from one screen to the next, whereas it is
continuously passing print rollers in rotary printing machines. A 10 colour print requires 10 screens
or print rollers which the fabric touches one after another.

Critical lubrication points:


- slide rails
- chains and toothed wheels
- cylinder bearings

Flat-bed printing machine


19.08.2017 / Slide 48 Training Department / Textile Industry

Rotary Printing Machines

Manufacturers of rotary printing machines

Baser Switzerland
Ichinose Japan
Mitter Germany
Reggiani Italy
Stork Netherlands
Zimmer Austria
19.08.2017 / Slide 49 Training Department / Textile Industry

Flat-bed and Rotary Printing Machines

Application Klüber Lubricant Remarks

Slide Rails Klüberpaste 46 MR 401 Assembly paster, conteracts


tribocorrosion
or
Lubricating oil for high temperatures
Klübersynth CTH 2-260
up to 250°C
Repeating bearings STABURAGS NBU 12 K Long-term grease
resistent to ambient media
Chains and open gear HOTEMP 2000 Spray High-viscosity adhesive lubricant
drives (for printing POLYLUB HVT 50 A Spray good damping properties
blanket transport)
Klübersynth CTH 2-260 see above

Adhesive lubricant (less so than


STRUCTOVIS EHD
POLYLUB HVT 50 A SPRAY)
Dryer: PETAMO GHY 133 N Multi-purpose grease for rolling and
Suspension dryer, plain bearings
cylinder bearings
19.08.2017 / Slide 50 Training Department / Textile Industry

From Fibre to Textiles

3. Finishing

Washing/ Bleaching/ Alkaline Treatment

Mercerising

Dyeing

Flat Screen Printing/ Rotary Screen Printing

Dryer

Steamer

Hot Flue Stenter Frame


19.08.2017 / Slide 51 Training Department / Textile Industry

Calender

Objective
The calender is one of the most important machines used in finishing fabrics made of vegetable
fibres.
The drying calender refines the dry fabric by means of roller pressure. This process is basically a
cloth rectifying technique achieved by roller pressure and heat.
Calender
Critical lubrication points:
- roller bearings
- chains and open-running drive wheels
- gears
19.08.2017 / Slide 52 Training Department / Textile Industry

Calender

Manufacturers of calenders

Farmer Norton Great Britain


Fleissner Germany
Guarneri Italy
Küsters Germany
Monforts Germany
19.08.2017 / Slide 53 Training Department / Textile Industry

Calender

Application Klüber Lubricant Remarks

Roller bearings:
Unheated rollers CRUCOLAN 320 Multi-purpose oil
plain bearings

rolling bearings CENTOPLEX 2 Multi-purpose grease for standard loads

Heated rollers
up to 150°C SYNTHESO D 220 High-temperature lubricating oil
plain/ rolling bearings

above 150 °C SYNTHESO D 460 High-temperature lubricating oil


plain/ rolling bearings

with oil filling BARRIERTA L 55/3 High-temperature lubricating oil


rolling bearings with grease fill
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19.08.2017

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