Professional Documents
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YARN FORMING
Introduction
Stretch spinning is the process of drawing out and twisting fibres in order to join them
firmly together in a continuous thread or yarn. Extrusion spinning involves the
production of individual fibres, either naturally, as in the case of the silk worm, or using
physical and chemical processes as in the manufacture of man-made fibres.
Spinning preparation also includes the stage at which any undesired foreign matter is
separated from the carded material, especially in the case of natural fibres, which
facilitates the subsequent yarn generating process.
19.08.2017 / Slide 4 Training Department / Textile Industry
Introduction
After it has been subjected to adequate processes, cotton can be spun like other fibres.
Cotton consists of short fibres.
Wool (animal fibre) has to be cleaned of any impurities and washed before spinning.
The wool spinning process is similar to cotton spinning. The machines are adapted to
the properties of wool and the length of the fibres. Wool is long-fibred.
19.08.2017 / Slide 5 Training Department / Textile Industry
Introduction
Classification of fibres
Natural fibres
Asbestos
Vegetable Bast fibres Hard Wool/ Hair Natural silk
fibres fibres
3. Finishing
Mercerising
Dyeing
Dryer
Steamer
Textile finishing
The purpose of textile finishing is to modify the aspect, colour, feel, or general
characteristics of textile fabrics so that they meet the current fashion requirements and
maintain or extend their usable life.
While bleaching, dying and printing processes determine the colour and resistance of
the fabric, thermosetting influences other characteristics, such as the surface stability
and resistance to creasing.
Water is the main medium used in bleaching, washing and dying. It may be assumed
that water treatments account for 90 to 95 %. The remaining 5 to 10 % are processes
involving the use of solvents, such as perchloroethyl-ene or trichloroethylene.
19.08.2017 / Slide 8 Training Department / Textile Industry
3. Finishing
Mercerising
Dyeing
Dryer
Steamer
Stenters
Objective
- stretching
- smoothing
- straightening (with the aid of weft straighteners)
- drying (after wet treatment)
- thermo-setting (avoid wrinkling)
- coating (eg application of a special plastic layer)
Stenters
The cloth entry, drying and exit zones can be adjusted in width to allow the cloth to be
stretched to the sides.
The edges of the cloth are pressed onto the clips equipped with needle bars by means
of a rotary brush. A wet fabric may, for instance, be stretched, dryed in the drying
section, cooled down and eventually set.
The finished cloth can then either be folded or rolled in a special discharge area.
19.08.2017 / Slide 11 Training Department / Textile Industry
Stenters
Brasil Texima
19.08.2017 / Slide 12 Training Department / Textile Industry
Stenters
Stenters
Stenters
Stenters
The main components of stenters with drying and cooling sections are:
Accessory equipment for the application of special dyes or finishing agents. Steam
equipment used for special surface treatment of the fabric. Weft straighteners for
checked or cross-striped fabrics.
Lubrication points
Guiding systems at the fabric entry section (rollers, cylinders) are lubricated
exclusively with the lubricants recommended or prescribed for the entire machinery.
19.08.2017 / Slide 16 Training Department / Textile Industry
Stenters
Stenters
After the dry or wet cloth has been spread out by the scroll rollers, the rolled-up edges of the
cloth (selvedges) are opened by so-called finger uncurlers (or selvedge spreaders). A draw-in
roller makes it possible to advance the cloth to enable uniform tensioning of the material.
19.08.2017 / Slide 18 Training Department / Textile Industry
Stenters
Stenters
Stenters
Stenters
Stenters
The running surface of the ball bearings on additional elements (eg needle bars) absorbs
transverse tensional forces.
The dual slideways on which the steel sliding plates run absorb the weight of both the
chain and the cloth. The slide rails may be made of self-lubricating materials or materials
requiring only minimum lubrication.
A bronze cover plate covers the steel chain rail from the top, securing the chain in the
rail.
19.08.2017 / Slide 23 Training Department / Textile Industry
Stenters
Stenters
Stenters
Brückner chains
(horizontal)
19.08.2017 / Slide 26 Training Department / Textile Industry
Stenters
Width adjustment
Stenters
Stenters
The cloth passes the entire length of the machine, which may have a number of
drying zones. The number of drying zones depends on the weight and the desired
speed of the cloth. For certain fabrics heat setting temperatures are up to 250 °C.
The drying air is generated by indirect (steam, thermal oil) or direct (gas) heating
systems and circulated by means of fans. The arrangement of circulating and
exhaust fans varies depending on the type of system and manufacturer.
19.08.2017 / Slide 29 Training Department / Textile Industry
Stenters
Stenters
120 mm
Main lubrication points of a stenter thermal
Generously
insula-
tion dimensioned Exhaust
Control centre Economy lubrication device Air-circulation Nozzle Remo-
layer sliding doors fan
axial-flow fan body in vable
operating end Door
Upper nozzle
position plate seal
body raised
for
inspection/
maintenance
purposes
Stenters
Stenters
3. Finishing
Mercerising
Dyeing
Dryer
Steamer
Hot Flue
Objective
In a hot flue the cloth is dried with hot air (approx. 180 - 230 °C). They are used for non-stretch
drying of cloth treated with the most diverse finishing techniques.
Hot Flue
Hot Flue
3. Finishing
Mercerising
Dyeing
Flat Screen Printing/ Rotary Screen Printing
Dryer
Steamer
Mercerising Machine
Objective
While the bleaching process essentially destroys the natural pigments (at high temperatures) in
textile fibres, in the mercerising process cold concentrated sodium hydroxide is applied to obtain
certain desired properties, e. g. better sheen, stronger handling and better absorptive power, in
cotton yarns and textile surfaces.
Mercerising Machine
Mercerising Machine
3. Finishing
Mercerising
Dyeing
Dryer
Steamer
Objective
In contrast to continuous bleaching and dying units, these machines are used for discontinuous
(batch-processed) bleaching or dying of yarns, flocks, slivers and fabrics.
Since the operating temperature in bleaching or dying units can be up to 140 °C, they are
referred to as high-temperature units.
Benninger Germany
Brückner Germany
Dornier Germany
Farmer Norton Great Britain
Goller Germany
Küsters Germany
Menzel Germany
Morrison USA
19.08.2017 / Slide 45 Training Department / Textile Industry
3. Finishing
Mercerising
Dyeing
Dryer
Steamer
Objective
The dye is applied by means of screens in flatbed or rotary printing machines. In the fletbed
printing machine the cloth is moved step-by-step from one screen to the next, whereas it is
continuously passing print rollers in rotary printing machines. A 10 colour print requires 10 screens
or print rollers which the fabric touches one after another.
Baser Switzerland
Ichinose Japan
Mitter Germany
Reggiani Italy
Stork Netherlands
Zimmer Austria
19.08.2017 / Slide 49 Training Department / Textile Industry
3. Finishing
Mercerising
Dyeing
Dryer
Steamer
Calender
Objective
The calender is one of the most important machines used in finishing fabrics made of vegetable
fibres.
The drying calender refines the dry fabric by means of roller pressure. This process is basically a
cloth rectifying technique achieved by roller pressure and heat.
Calender
Critical lubrication points:
- roller bearings
- chains and open-running drive wheels
- gears
19.08.2017 / Slide 52 Training Department / Textile Industry
Calender
Manufacturers of calenders
Calender
Roller bearings:
Unheated rollers CRUCOLAN 320 Multi-purpose oil
plain bearings
Heated rollers
up to 150°C SYNTHESO D 220 High-temperature lubricating oil
plain/ rolling bearings