Shoe Construction (Part-2)

By
Md. Rayhan Sarker
Lecturer
Institute of Leather Engineering and Technology
University of Dhaka

Md. Rayhan Sarker, Lecturer Institute of Leather Engineering and Technology, University of Dhaka
 Types of Direct Construction
1. Cemented construction/Direct stuck construction
2. Moulded construction
3. Californian slip-lasted/Force lasted construction
4. String lasted construction
5. Strobel construction
6. Direct sewon construction
7. Direct stitch down construction

Md. Rayhan Sarker, Lecturer Institute of Leather Engineering and Technology, University of Dhaka
 Types of Moulded Construction

1. Direct vulcanized
2. Injection moulded PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride)
3. Injection moulded PU (Polyurethane)

1
2 3
Md. Rayhan Sarker, Lecturer Institute of Leather Engineering and Technology, University of Dhaka
Moulding
It is the process of forming a three-dimensional footwear item, by
introducing a fluid material to the inside of a mould. The fluid is caused to
set solid, the mould is opened and the footwear is removed.

Why moulded footwear?

 Low-cost production
 Higher productivity
 It provides a footwear item without stitch
holes or joints, ideal for waterproof properties

Md. Rayhan Sarker, Lecturer Institute of Leather Engineering and Technology, University of Dhaka
 Direct Vulcanized
• The name vulcanizing is derived from Vulcan the Roman god of fire and metal
working.
• The process needs intense heat to achieve the curing of the rubber.
• To produce a rubber that is solid enough to act as a soling material, it is
necessary to combine it with Sulphur, which acts as a hardening agent, and to
heat the mixture under pressure. This is the process of vulcanizing. It can be
used to produce sole or heel units or to weld the sole directly on to the shoe
bottom, thus becoming direct vulcanizing.
• Fillers and pigments are added to impart color the rubber and make the
compound cheaper.

Md. Rayhan Sarker, Lecturer Institute of Leather Engineering and Technology, University of Dhaka
 Direct Vulcanized

Fig. Vulcanization of natural rubber

Md. Rayhan Sarker, Lecturer Institute of Leather Engineering and Technology, University of Dhaka
 Direct Vulcanized

Let’s watch a video on direct vulcanized shoe construction

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=blJCKExg7vc

Md. Rayhan Sarker, Lecturer Institute of Leather Engineering and Technology, University of Dhaka
 Direct Vulcanized
• Accelerating agents are used to speed up the process time. This process time
is known as the cure time. It will vary with the amount of rubber used and the
mould temperature. It is usually about four minutes.
• Many upper leathers, insoles and stiffeners would not withstand the high
machine temperatures. Moisture contents of these materials have to be strictly
controlled because even a fairly low moisture content produced charring of
the upper and insole. To overcome this problem, the upper leathers, insoles
and stiffeners have to be wholly chrome tanned or have a high chrome
content. Vegetable-tanned uppers and linings can’t be used at all.
• The machine is built to process a pair of shoes at a time. The moulds used
consist of four parts – the sole mould or piston, two side moulds which join at
the toe and heel, and the metal last.
Md. Rayhan Sarker, Lecturer Institute of Leather Engineering and Technology, University of Dhaka
 Direct Vulcanized

Fig. Direct Vulcanized Shoe Construction Process

Md. Rayhan Sarker, Lecturer Institute of Leather Engineering and Technology, University of Dhaka
 Direct Vulcanized
• The moulds of the correct size, style and fitting are fitted in the machine and
heated electrically to approximately 180 °C. The side moulds are slightly
cooler than the sole mould. Because of the high pressure used, the moulds
have to be securely fixed in the machine and are difficult to change quickly.
• The shoe is slipped from the making last and re-lasted on to the metal last.
• A sole “blank” is pre-heated to 110 °C. The “blank”, of unvulcanized rubber,
is placed on the sole mould and the shoe on the alloy last is locked into
position over it.
• By operating a switch, the side moulds close to grip the sides of the shoe at
the insole edge, completely sealing the shoe into the mould. The sole mould
moves upwards under hydraulic pressure of 600-800 lb. per sq. in, to a pre-set
level. This determines the substance of the finished shoe.

Md. Rayhan Sarker, Lecturer Institute of Leather Engineering and Technology, University of Dhaka
 Direct Vulcanized
• By virtue of the heat and pressure, the rubber blank melts, flows to fill the
mould evenly, and vulcanizes itself to the bottom of the shoe. The cement
film on the shoe bottom is also vulcanized so that the complete sole and heel
unit can firmly attached to the shoe.
The correct result must be:-
Clean and clear mouldings
No damage of upper
Good bond

Md. Rayhan Sarker, Lecturer Institute of Leather Engineering and Technology, University of Dhaka
 Direct Vulcanized
Flash trimming: Where the moulds meet, a thin film of rubber is formed
along the sole edge and at heel and toe. This is known as flash. The flash has to
be trimmed off, also any spue which has formed at the feather edge.
Spue: The side moulds of the machine must grip around the sides of the shoe
to form an absolute seal. If this is not a perfect seal, the rubber flowing the
inside the mould will be forced out over the side moulds by the high pressure.
This spillage will harden around the feather line and is known as Spue.
The correct result must be:-
All flash should be removed cleanly from sole and heel
All spue should be removed cleanly without damage to the upper
No burst seams or toplines

Md. Rayhan Sarker, Lecturer Institute of Leather Engineering and Technology, University of Dhaka
 Flow Chart of Direct Vulcanized
Find the word file

• It has been mentioned that the sole may be assembled to the

footwear in either an unvulcanized or an already vulcanized
condition.

Md. Rayhan Sarker, Lecturer Institute of Leather Engineering and Technology, University of Dhaka
 Injection moulded PVC
Temperature required: 160 degree C.
Pressure : 80 lbs/ square inch

Let’s watch videos on injection moulding, PVC and PU injection

moulded shoe construction

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b1U9W4iNDiQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWRiduTt-wI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23RH0fqsSiE

Md. Rayhan Sarker, Lecturer Institute of Leather Engineering and Technology, University of Dhaka
 Flow chart of PVC injection moulded shoe construction
see the word file
Advantages of PVC injection moulding
 It is much cheaper than other materials of comparable qualities.
 A good clean finished sole appearance can be achieved with excellent
definition of mould contours, printing and fineness of detail.
 It can be made in all colors including pastel shades.
 The moulds don’t require heating.
 The process time is much shorter.
 Less flash and spue are produced.

Md. Rayhan Sarker, Lecturer Institute of Leather Engineering and Technology, University of Dhaka
Special attention for wear-properties of PVC sole
• The wear properties of PVC are closely related to the softness of the material.
Softness of PVC is measured in terms of SHORE A degrees. If the material is
too hard the edges will chip and cracking will take place in cold flexing
conditions. It will also slip easily. PVC which is too soft is difficult to bond
because of the high plasticizer content.
• Thus, a softness of 50-75 SHORE A degrees is usually employed. For cold
weather wear SATRA recommended 78-90 SHORE A degrees.
• One problem is that with thin substances with soft materials, “print through”
of rough walking surfaces, such as sharp stones, takes place.

Md. Rayhan Sarker, Lecturer Institute of Leather Engineering and Technology, University of Dhaka
 References
1. Manual of Shoe Making by R.G. Miller
2. Basic Shoemaking: A step by step guide to shoemaking
3. Lecture Notes on Shoemaking: Volume-2

Md. Rayhan Sarker, Lecturer Institute of Leather Engineering and Technology, University of Dhaka
 Thanks
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Any Question

Md. Rayhan Sarker, Lecturer Institute of Leather Engineering and Technology, University of Dhaka