Sand Blasting,Whisker, Hand Scraping, PP Spray, Grinding, Destroy

Couse Title : Apparel manufacturing-3

Couse Code : TE-417

Submitted To: Mr.Md. Mominur Rahman

Assistant Professor

Department of Textile

Daffodil International University

Submitted By :

Name : Kaosar Ali

ID : 153-23-4468

Section : Eve (A) (L3T1)

Department of TE

Daffodil International University

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
The success and final outcome of this assignment required a guidance and assistance and I
extremely fortunate to have got this completion of my assignment work. Whatever I have done is
only due to such guidance and assistance and I would not forget to thank him. I respect and thank
Mr. Md. Mominur Rahman for giving me an opportunity to do this assignment work and
providing me all support and guidance which made me complete the assignment on time, I
extremely grateful to him for providing such a nice support and guidance. Last but not least, I
would like to express my gratitude to my friends and respondents for support and willingness to
spend some time with me. I am also thankful to Allah for showing me the right path and being in
my difficulty.
ABSTRACT :

Denim garment is most widely used due to its appearance, comfort, strength, durability and low
cost, which gives the customers utmost satisfaction. Denim garment does not inherit customers
desired properties in the primary stage of manufacturing, but can be incorporated desirably by
applying some finishing treatment, most widely known as dry washing process, in the denim
garment. The most widely used dry washing processes for denim garment to develop new a look
and effect are hand brush, destroy, tagging, pressing crinkle, whiskering and PP spray. We
applied a combination of dry washing process on raw sample to develop certain effect in the
denim and measured the change of physical properties due to application of different dry
washing process. First, a combination of dry washing process (certain number) is applied on raw
sample and repeated on other four similar raw samples. Similarly other five combination of dry
washing process, are applied on raw samples. Due to the application of these combinations of
dry washing process on raw samples, they undergo changes of some physical properties like
GSM, tear strength and EPI & PPI. Then the average values of these properties (GSM, tear
strength and EPI & PPI) for repeated application of combination of dry washing process on
similar raw samples are process.
 Table of Contents

ACKNOLEDGEMENT ii

ABSTRACT iii

Table of Contents .. iv-v

CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTION

1.1 Background of the Assignment .. 1

To know about the Sand blasting
To know about the Whisker
To know about the Hand scrapping
To know about the pp Spray
To know about the Destroy
1.2 Objective of the Assignment . 1
Perfectly know the whisker
Objective of pp spray
1.3 Importance of Assignment 1
Dry process is very important for denim garments
How to know about grinding
1.4 Limitation of the Assignment . 1
The data collection and Appling it is so difficult

CHAPTER 2: DESCRIPTION
2.1 Sand Blasting
2.1.1Procedure of Sand Blasting
2.2 Whisker
2.2.1Whiskering Process
2.3 Hands scraping
2.4 Potassium permanganate spray (P.P Spray)
 2.4.1 Process of P.P Spray
2.5Grinding &Destroy
2.6 Destroyed Denim
CHAPTER 3: CONCLUSION & REFERENCE

3.1 CONCLUSION

3.2 References

CHAPTER 2: DESCRIPTION

2.1 Sand Blasting:

Sand blasting is the process of scrubbing off the garment by blowing high-speed air mixed with
very fine particles of sand. This is a very successful and most widely used process for fashion
articles. When the surface area of the garment is blasted, white cotton appears beneath the
blasted area and the effect appearing is very similar to the worn out jeans. Sand blast provides a
very uniform result, which cannot be achieved with its alternates. Its specialty is the merging
effect that is blended with such a beauty that it has no difference with natural effect.

High pressure of air produces a powerful backward thrust to operator so it is always

recommended to fix the gun in appropriate stands rather than placing it on shoulders or using it
with bare hands. On some fabrics sand blasting is not successful for it covers the characteristics
of fabric. Especially in fabrics, which are famous for slob patterns it flattens the look. Specified
areas for sand blasting are front thigh, back seat, back panel near bottom or front panel around
knee. Some time full body blasting is also done for giving a unique look to fabric. Hot spots may
be designed for more real look on front knees or back seat by intense blasting in these areas.

2.1.1Procedure of Sand Blasting:

Individual garment to be processed is taken on a table.
Air compressor is started and pressure to be maintained between 3 4 kg/sq.cm.
 Air compressor then stores air in the machine cylinder. Aluminum sand or silicon sand,
Al2(SiO4)3, is then taken in the chamber of the blasting machine.
Sand and compressed air are then sprayed over the garments at specific points at 10-200
angle by hand spray pipe.
Sands pass into the machine by regulating system.
The machine comprises a blasting regulator and a hand regulator to control the amount of
sand and compressed air respectively.
The angle of sand blowing is very important. Higher the blowing angle, higher the fading
effect and higher the risk of fabric damage.
Fading is done on pre-marked areas.
Sandblasting is a hazardous technique and therefore, the area should be isolated from
other working areas.
Handling of sandblasting gun is risky therefore, operators should use safety equipments
like hand gloves, mask and gown. Production/hour/gun varies from 25 45 garments
depending upon the degree of fading or extent of fading to be attained.
The faded garments are cleaned by shaking manually. After sandblasting, garments are
washed and the technique is being followed may be normal, bleach or bio-stone.

2.2 Whisker:
whiskers are one of the most important design of a used look garment. The idea of whiskers is
taken from the worn out lines and impression patterns generated by natural wearing on hips and
front thigh area. On old jeans, a number of patterns can be finding consequential to fabric, body
shape of user or sitting posture. It is also known as Cat's Whisker.

2.2.1Whiskering Process:
Mostly rubber balloons are available with different pattern designs. Garments are
mounted on balloons and filled with air to get impressions of whiskers. Garments
crubbed over pattern carefully with sand paper on engraved pattern lines. This operation
requires high skilled labor and who can handle uniformity and sequence in whisker line.
Fabric may damage during rubbing if care is not taken. This method is famous for high
quality and cost effectiveness.

Sometimes separate patterns are made and fixed on balloons to make mustaches. These
patterns are made of thin rubber sheets and electric wires or rubber cords and pasted on
 balloons for pattern lines. Thin line patterns are very easy to work in that way but it is not
much successful for broad lines.
Engraved patterns on thick board like hard rubber sheets are widely used for whiskers
impression making. This idea is very simple to draw lines on rubber sheets and engrave
them with blade. Garment is places on sheet and scrapped on specific area to draw this
impression on garment. For its low cost patterns, it is most frequently used in small
industries especially where the production is not consistent to style.
In some workshops it is done manually with the help of sharp edge rolled on fine wood
sticks of pasted on plastic material. Before starting execution, placement and pattern must
be marked on garment, this will help operator to execute the pattern right to match the
aesthetics of garment.
2.3 Hands scraping:
A hand scraper is a single-edged tool used to scrape metal from a surface. This may be required
where a surface needs to be trued, corrected for fit to a mating part, needs to retain oil (usually
on a freshly ground surface), or even to give a decorative finish. Surface plates were traditionally
made by scraping. Three raw cast surface plates, a flat scraper and a quantities of bearing blue
(6) (or Red Lead) were all that was required in the way of tools. The scraper in the center of the
image is a three corner scraper and is typically used to debar holes or the internal surface of bush
type bearings. Bushes are typically made from bronze or a white metal.

2.4 Potassium permanganate spray (P.P Spray):

Potassium permanganate spray is done on jeans to take a bright effect on sand blast area. One
important thing about potassium permanganate spray is, this is usually a sporting process to
increase the effect of sand blast. Potassium permanganate solution is sprayed on blasted area of
jeans garment with the help of normal spray gun. This potassium permanganate spray appears
pink on garment when fresh and turns to muddy brown on drying. The garment is hanged in open
to dry after potassium permanganate spray and when the potassium permanganate turns its colors
completely then it is considered to ready for next process. It is always followed by neutralization
process. Sodium Meta bisulphate is most commonly used neutralizer. A number of products are
available in market for neutralization process like sodium Meta bisulfate selected on the bases of
effect required on blasted area.

Potassium permanganate sprays concentrations ranges from .25 gm per liter to 15.00 grams per
liter depending to required results and fabric types. Usually indigo died fabrics are treated with
low concentrations whereas Black Sulfur Fabric requires high concentrations to treat with.
2.4.1 Process of P.P Spray:
1. Potassium permanganate spray in best is done in specific spray booths, where rubber
dummies are installed for holding garments. Garments are mounted on the dummies and
air is filled so the garment is full fit exposed. Specific dummies are used for different
sizes and styles, like for kids, mens, trousers, jackets, shirts etc. The booths are fitted
with proper air exhaust system. This system leads the spray to treatment room where the
chemical mixed air is usually passed through the water showers. Potassium permanganate
is dissolved in water and the clean air is blown to open. Shower water is further treated
with mild quantities of neutralizer before adding to main drain. But where the potassium
permanganate spray is used in low concentrations then there is now need to treat shower
water. This mild potassium permanganate mixed water is rather useful for water
reservoirs to keep the water clean and germs free.

Fig: Before pp spray and after pp spray denim

2. Garments are mounted on air-filled rubber dummies and chemical is sprayed on blasted areas.
The variables in spray process are as follows:
Distance of spray gun to garment: Less distance will give more defined and sharp effect whereas
distant spray will result in more mild and merged effect. Distance ranges from one foot to two
and a half feet.
Air to water ratio of gun: This is to be set very carefully. Low air pressure possibly will through
KMnO4 drops on garment resulting in bright white spots whereas high pressure will produce
very low bright effect spray effect to areas where it is not required.
Potassium Permanganate Solution Concentration: This will control the extent of brightness.
2.4 Potassium Permanganate Sponging/ Brushing:
PP Spray is being done on denim garments to achieve local abraded area to appear whiter than
back ground indigo color shade. This can be applied by sponges dipped in to PP Solution &
rubbed on desired area followed by neutralization in wet process. This process can be done in
rigid after doing hand scrape or in the middle of the wash. Doing after enzyme or bleach cycle
will give more natural & white effect that doing in rigid. There are many additives can be added
in order to achieve desired intensity and look.

In usual, it is done with regular paint brushes or the brushes are modified by cutting hairs in
different shapes to produce new styles. Rather towels, sponges, straw bunches or other objects
are also used to create effects. What it is seen, is that most merging and beautiful effects are
created with towel. Towel dipped in solution are drawn over the garment very lightly. This
produces random effect and looks great with dark washes in contrast.

This process is very complicated & needs highly skilled operators to execute it followed by
immediate neutralization.

Procedure of P.P Sponging/ Brushing:

Prepare Potassium Permanganate solution.(P.P 20%,water 80%).
Take the solution in a tray or bowl.
Take a rubber board.
Then take a jeans trouser & place the rubber board inside the leg panel of the trouser.
Now place the trouser with rubber board on a flat table & sponged or rubbed P.P on
apparel surface.
Then color will faded.
After this process wet process essential (detergent/bleach/enzyme wash).

2.5Grinding &Destroy: Edge distressing or grinding is the process of destruction on jeans form
edges of the garment. When we look at old jeans we find it destroyed from the edges of pockets,
fly area, belt and bottom. This used effect can be created on jeans by grinding and is of key
importance in high fashion garments. Grinding is done of garments by pen type of stone tools. It
can be done in mid of the wash process. In many workshops it is done before any wash process
as first process after stitching. Stone tools similar to grinders used in wood and stone industry are
utilized to work on garments with a few amendments to their design.
2.6 Destroyed Denim:
One of the most popular distressing effects currently , Destruction is an art which make denim
look unique & used. To make destruction pen type of stone tools being used in mid of wash
process to apply on desired area. It can also be achieved by cutting it thru knife the warp yarns &
keep the weft yarn as is to show white thread. Holes also can be made by cutting weft & warp
yarns. These are all manual processes & every garment will look unique & different than others.

Different types of machine used for destroy the garments. Such as-
Grinding Machine.
Emery Cloth.
Hacksaw Blade.
Needle.
Knife etc.

2.6.1 Process of Destroyed Denim:

We can make holes in jeans by overdoing different methods. The trick is to make the holes look
natural. Grind away at the fabric slowly. Try not to localize the worn area, spread it with
diminishing wear the further we get from the intended hole.

The area around the hole should be worn out as well as bleached to further blend the hole
with the surrounding fabric. "Finish" the edges with a pumice stone or sandpaper
 dampened in bleach. Also dampening a sponge with bleach and applying it to the outer
edges of the hole will add to the natural worn look.
Ripped jeans are a bit different. The rip is not necessarily from wear, and should not look
the same as a worn out hole.
It is important that what types of look we want to see on our denim. It is recommend to
use a sharp pocket knife. Be careful, they are very sharp. Rub the blade of the knife
perpendicular to the line of the rip that we want. Continue until we create a slit, and then
fray the edges, exposing the threads that are perpendicular to the rip. Do this until the
hole is the size that we want and the edges are fuzzy. A wash and a dry will further mess
up the edge. To some extent this will control further fraying.
To reinforce this newly created hole, turn your pants inside out and place an adequately
cut piece of fabric around it and sew it. An iron on will work as well, but the stitching,
done either by hand or with a sewing machine, will make it look much better.
It is preferred that not too many holes, 3 to 5 should be enough. The current trend,
however, seems to be for smaller holes.
The scope of denim dry process is very broad. Only innovative products will be able to open
up new markets and new horizons for denim industry. To achieve this it is essential to invest
in further research and development. Globalization has opened the door to competition at the
highest level. Every industry should now produce products that are best in terms of quality
and price. Customers today have a wide range of choices and the one who produces the best
quality at a high competitive price will survive and prosper.

CHAPTER 3: CONCLUSION & REFERENCE

3.1 CONCLUSION:

The effects of dry washing process on denim under investigation could be realized by the
comparison of GSM, tear strength, EPI & PPI. Tear strength, GSM, EPI & PPI are increased
due to required wash treatment. By controlling the value of different properties like GSM or
tear strength or EPI & PPI previously specific effect can be found precisely by applying a
certain combination of dry washing process. It is further noted that pre-washed denim are
almost stiff and harder than the required washed denim. So in order to meet the quick change
of customer demand for fashion apparel, dry washing process can be an effective way

3.2 References:
http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/38/3762/denim-dry-finishing1.as
http://www.denimhelp.com/whiskers-on-jeans/
http://learnapparel.blogspot.com/2013/02/dry-process-on-denim-part-2.html
http://www.indiantextilejournal.com/articles/FAdetails.asp?id=4330
http://learnapparel.blogspot.com/2013/02/dry-process-on-denim-part-1.html
https://sites.google.com/site/denimwashescollections/dry-process
http://www.denimsandjeans.com/denim/manufacturing-process/denim-dry-
processing-for-creating- vintage-jeans/
https://sites.google.com/site/denimwashescollections/dry-process