Southeast University

Dept. Of Textile Engineering

Assignment On
Dry wash effects On Denim Fabric
Course Code: Tex-4017
Course Title : Garments Manufacturing
Technology-III
Subimitted To:
Mr. Minhaz Ahmed
Lecturer, Dept. Of Textile Engineering
Submitted By:

Name ID Batch
1. Ashique Mahmud 2017000400091 34th
2. Mahfuzur Rahman Himel 2017000400085 34th
3. Rudayba Adnina Mahia 2017000400086 34th
4. M.M. Amzad Hossain 2017000400039 34th
Submission Date: 03/06/2020
 What is Denim Washing?
Denim washing is the aesthetic finish, which is given to
the denim fabric to enhance the appeal and to provide strength. In
case of denim washing, several wash effects can be produced
such as- color fading with or without patchiness, seam puckering,
de-pilling, crinkles, hairiness etc.

Objects of denim garment washing:

There are several objects of denim garment washing:

1. To develop softness in garments: Size materials applied

during manufacturing that are present in the fabric are
removed, which enhances the soft hand feel. Additional
softness may be attained by using softeners.
2. To introduce a fading effect: Dyes or pigments present in
the fabric, used during colouration, are washed out locally or
partially, resulting in fading or worn-out effects in the
garments.
3. To create new fashion: The washing process of garments
creates a different outlook (faded, colour tinted, etc.), thus
creating new fashions for new generations especially for
teenagers.
4. To satisfy the consumer: Because contraction or
extraction (shrinkage) does not occur during washing, the
wearer can use the garments satisfactorily after purchasing
them.
 Advantages to denim washed garments:
1. Removal of starch or size materials gives the fabric a soft
hand feel.
2. Softness can be increased by adding a softener at the very
last stage of washing.
3. If dirt, spots, impurities, gum, etc., have accumulated in the
garments during manufacturing, they can be removed.,
4. During washing shrinkage may take place; therefore no
shrinkage occur during washing of garments.
5. Washed garments can be worn directly after purchase.
6. Faded or worn effects can be introduced to the garments,
creating a new fashion.
7. A similar look can be obtained by different washing
techniques.
8. Comparatively lower capital is required to set up a washing
plant.
9. A smaller amount of property and fewer paid workers are
required to run a washing plant.

Limitations of denim garments washing:

1. Garment sizes change: Size change takes place owing to
the shrinkage properties of fabric. The amount of shrinkage of
the fabric determines the size change of the garments during
washing.

2. Size material is partly removed: Unfixed dyes may

remain on the surface of the garments and it is necessary to
remove them completely after washing.
 Advantages to denim washed garments:
1. Removal of starch or size materials gives the fabric a soft
hand feel.
2. Softness can be increased by adding a softener at the very
last stage of washing.
3. If dirt, spots, impurities, gum, etc., have accumulated in the
garments during manufacturing, they can be removed.
4. During washing shrinkage may take place; therefore no
shrinkage occur during washing of garments.
5. Washed garments can be worn directly after purchase.
6. Faded or worn effects can be introduced to the garments,
creating a new fashion.
7. A similar look can be obtained by different washing
techniques.
8. Comparatively lower capital is required to set up a washing
plant.
9. A smaller amount of property and fewer paid workers are
required to run a washing plant.

Limitations of denim garments washing:

1. Garment sizes change: Size change takes place owing to
the shrinkage properties of fabric. The amount of shrinkage of
the fabric determines the size change of the garments during
washing.
2. Size material is partly removed: Unfixed dyes may
remain on the surface of the garments and it is necessary to
remove them completely after washing.
Process Flowchart of Denim Washing:

Garments received
↓
Dry process
↓
Send to wet process
↓
Garments loading in washing machine
↓
De-size
↓
Enzyme
↓
Bleaching (If needed)
↓
Neutralization
↓
Extracting
↓
Drying
↓
P.P spray
↓
Neutralization
↓
Tinting
↓
Softener
↓
Extracting
↓
Drying
↓
3D
↓
Curing
↓
Q.C check
↓
Delivery
 Different Types of Denim Wash

1. Rinse Wash
2. Enzyme wash
3. Stone wash
4. Caustic wash
5. Acid wash
6. Random bleach wash
7. Ice-or Snow was
8. Tinting
9. Net bleach
10. Resin wash
11. Milk wash
12. Cold Pigment wash

What is Dry Process?

Dry process is the name given to the various
manufacturing processes for composite components in which the
part is made by depositing and shaping pre-impregnated semi-
finished products. ... The manufacturing processes based on
the dry process principle are industrialised (mechanised or
automated).

Different types of Dry process for Denim Wash

Whiskering:
whiskers are one of the most important design of a used look
garment. The idea of whiskers is taken from the worn out lines and
impression patterns generated by natural wearing on hips and front
thigh area. On old jeans, a number of patterns can be finding
consequential to fabric, body shape of user or sitting posture. It is
also known as Cat's Whisker.[2]

Fig: Whisker on jeans

Whiskering Process:
Various methods are designed to create this impression on jeans.
Such as:-
▪ Mostly rubber balloons are available with different pattern
designs. Garments are mounted on balloons and filled with air
to get impressions of whiskers. Garment is scrubbed over
pattern carefully with sand paper on engraved pattern lines.
This operation requires high skilled labor and who can handle
uniformity and sequence in whisker line. Fabric may damage
during rubbing if care is not taken. This method is famous for
high quality and cost effectiveness.

Picture: Producing Wiskering Effect on Denim

▪ Sometimes separate patterns are made and fixed on balloons
to make mustaches. These patterns are made of thin rubber
sheets and electric wires or rubber cords and pasted on
balloons for pattern lines. Thin line patterns are very easy to
work in that way but it is not much successful for broad lines.
▪ Engraved patterns on thick board like hard rubber sheets are
widely used for whiskers impression making. This idea is very
simple to draw lines on rubber sheets and engrave them with
blade. Garment is places on sheet and scrapped on specific
area to draw this impression on garment. For its low cost
patterns, it is most frequently used in small industries
especially where the production is not consistent to style.

Fig: Machines to produce wiskering effect

▪ In some workshops it is done manually with the help of sharp
edge rolled on fine wood sticks of pasted on plastic material.
Before starting execution, placement and pattern must be
marked on garment, this will help operator to execute the
pattern right to match the aesthetics of garment. [3]

Sand Blasting:
Sand blasting is the process of scrubbing off the garment by blowing high-
speed air mixed with very fine particles of sand. This is a very successful
and most widely used process for fashion articles. When the surface area
of the garment is blasted, white cotton appears beneath the blasted area
and the effect appearing is very similar to the worn out jeans. Sand blast
provides a very uniform result, which cannot be achieved with its
alternates. Its specialty is the merging effect that is blended with such a
beauty that it has no difference with natural effect.

High pressure of air produces a powerful backward thrust to operator so it

is always recommended to fix the gun in appropriate stands rather than
placing it on shoulders or using it with bare hands. On some fabrics sand
blasting is not successful for it covers the characteristics of fabric.
Especially in fabrics, which are famous for slob patterns it flattens the look.
Specified areas for sand blasting are front thigh, back seat, back panel
near bottom or front panel around knee. Some time full body blasting is
also done for giving a unique look to fabric. Hot spots may be designed for
more real look on front knees or back seat by intense blasting in these
areas.

Picture: Sand Blasting effects on Jeans

Procedure of Sand Blasting:

▪ Individual garment to be processed is taken on a table.

▪ Air compressor is started and pressure to be maintained
between 3 – 4 kg/sq.cm.
▪ Air compressor then stores air in the machine cylinder.
Aluminum sand or silicon sand, Al2(SiO4)3, is then taken in
the chamber of the blasting machine.
▪ Sand and compressed air are then sprayed over the garments
at specific points at 10-200 angle by hand spray pipe.
 Picture: Produce Sand Blasting effect on Jeans

▪ Sands pass into the machine by regulating system.

▪ The machine comprises a blasting regulator and a hand
regulator to control the amount of sand and compressed air
respectively.
▪ The angle of sand blowing is very important. Higher the
blowing angle, higher the fading effect and higher the risk of
fabric damage.
▪ Fading is done on pre-marked areas.
▪ Sandblasting is a hazardous technique and therefore, the area
should be isolated from other working areas.
▪ Handling of sandblasting gun is risky therefore, operators
should use safety equipments like hand gloves, mask and
gown. Production/hour/gun varies from 25 – 45 garments
depending upon the degree of fading or extent of fading to be
attained.

Picture: Sand-Blasting, Air Compressor with Nozzle

▪ The faded garments are cleaned by shaking manually. After
sandblasting, garments are washed and the technique is being
followed may be normal, bleach or bio-stone.

Potassium permanganate spray (P.P Spray):

Potassium permanganate spray is done on jeans to take a bright
effect on sand blast area. One important thing about potassium
permanganate spray is, this is usually a sporting process to
increase the effect of sand blast. Potassium permanganate
solution is sprayed on blasted area of jeans garment with the help
of normal spray gun. This potassium permanganate spray
appears pink on garment when fresh and turns to muddy brown
on drying. The garment is hanged in open to dry after potassium
permanganate spray and when the potassium permanganate
turns its colors completely then it is considered to ready for next
process. It is always followed by neutralization process. Sodium
Meta bisulphate is most commonly used neutralizer. A number of
products are available in market for neutralization process like
sodium Meta bisulfate selected on the bases of effect required on
blasted area.

Potassium permanganate sprays concentrations ranges from .25

gm per liter to 15.00 grams per liter depending to required results
and fabric types. Usually indigo died fabrics are treated with low
concentrations whereas Black Sulfur Fabric requires high
concentrations to treat with.

Picture: P.P effect on Jeans

 Process of P.P Spray:
1. Potassium permanganate spray in best is done in specific
spray booths, where rubber dummies are installed for holding
garments. Garments are mounted on the dummies and air is filled
so the garment is full fit exposed. Specific dummies are used for
different sizes and styles, like for kids, men’s, trousers, jackets,
shirts etc. The booths are fitted with proper air exhaust system.
This system leads the spray to treatment room where the
chemical mixed air is usually passed through the water showers.
Potassium permanganate is dissolved in water and the clean air
is blown to open. Shower water is further treated with mild
quantities of neutralizer before adding to main drain. But where
the potassium permanganate spray is used in low concentrations
then there is now need to treat shower water. This mild potassium
permanganate mixed water is rather useful for water reservoirs to
keep the water clean and germs free.

Fig: Before pp spray and after pp spray denim

2. Garments are mounted on air-filled rubber dummies and
chemical is sprayed on blasted areas. The variables in spray
process are as follows:

▪ Distance of spray gun to garment: Less distance will give more

defined and sharp effect whereas distant spray will result in
more mild and merged effect. Distance ranges from one foot to
two and a half feet.
▪ Air to water ratio of gun: This is to be set very carefully. Low
air pressure possibly will through KMnO4 drops on garment
resulting in bright white spots whereas high pressure will
produce very low bright effect spray effect to areas where it is
not required.
▪ Potassium Permanganate Solution Concentration: This will
control the extent of brightness.[6]

Potassium Permanganate Sponging/ Brushing:

PP Spray is being done on denim garments to achieve local
abraded area to appear whiter than back ground indigo color
shade. This can be applied by sponges dipped in to PP Solution &
rubbed on desired area followed by neutralization in wet process.
This process can be done in rigid after doing hand scrape or in
the middle of the wash. Doing after enzyme or bleach cycle will
give more natural & white effect that doing in rigid. There are
many additives can be added in order to achieve desired intensity
and look.
In usual, it is done with regular paint brushes or the brushes are
modified by cutting hairs in different shapes to produce new
styles. Rather towels, sponges, straw bunches or other objects
are also used to create effects. What it is seen, is that most
merging and beautiful effects are created with towel. Towel
dipped in solution are drawn over the garment very lightly. This
produces random effect and looks great with dark washes in
contrast.

This process is very complicated & needs highly skilled operators

to execute it followed by immediate neutralization.
 Picture: P.P effects on Jeans

Procedure of P.P Sponging/ Brushing:

▪ Prepare Potassium Permanganate solution.(P.P 20%,water

80%).
▪ Take the solution in a tray or bowl.
▪ Take a rubber board.
▪ Then take a jeans trouser & place the rubber board inside the
leg panel of the trouser.
▪ Now place the trouser with rubber board on a flat table &
sponged or rubbed P.P on apparel surface.
▪ Then color will faded.
▪ After this process wet process essential
(detergent/bleach/enzyme wash).
 Destroyed Denim:
One of the most popular distressing effects currently ,
‘Destruction’ is an art which make denim look unique & used. To
make destruction pen type of stone tools being used in mid
of wash process to apply on desired area. It can also be achieved
by cutting it thru knife the warp yarns & keep the weft yarn as is to
show white thread. Holes also can be made by cutting weft &
warp yarns. These are all manual processes & every garment will
look unique & different than others.

Different types of machine used for destroy the

garments.Such as-
▪ Grinding Machine.
▪ Emery Cloth.
▪ Hacksaw Blade.
▪ Needle.
▪ Knife etc.

Picture: Destroyed Jeans

 Process of Destroyed Denim:

▪ We can make holes in jeans by overdoing different methods.

The trick is to make the holes look natural. Grind away at the
fabric slowly. Try not to localize the worn area, spread it with
diminishing wear the further we get from the intended hole.

Picture: Process of Destroyed Jeans

▪ The area around the hole should be worn out as well as

bleached to further blend the hole with the surrounding fabric.
"Finish" the edges with a pumice stone or sandpaper
dampened in bleach. Also dampening a sponge with bleach
and applying it to the outer edges of the hole will add to the
natural worn look.
▪ Ripped jeans are a bit different. The rip is not necessarily from
wear, and should not look the same as a worn out hole.
▪ It is important that what types of look we want to see on our
denim. It is recommend to use a sharp pocket knife. Be
careful, they are very sharp. Rub the blade of the knife
perpendicular to the line of the rip that we want. Continue until
we create a slit, and then fray the edges, exposing the threads
that are perpendicular to the rip. Do this until the hole is the
 size that we want and the edges are fuzzy. A wash and a dry
will further mess up the edge. To some extent this will control
further fraying.
▪ To reinforce this newly created hole, turn your pants inside out
and place an adequately cut piece of fabric around it and sew
it. An iron on will work as well, but the stitching, done either by
hand or with a sewing machine, will make it look much better.
▪ It is preferred that not too many holes, 3 to 5 should be
enough. The current trend, however, seems to be for smaller
holes.
The scope of denim dry process is very broad. Only innovative
products will be able to open up new markets and new horizons
for denim industry. To achieve this it is essential to invest in
further research and development. Globalization has opened the
door to competition at the highest level. Every industry should
now produce products that are best in terms of quality and price.
Customers today have a wide range of choices and the one who
produces the best quality at a high competitive price will survive
and prosper.