Lecture-4

Common Dry Processes

Md. Ashadujjaman
Lecturer, DUET
 Dry Processes

The process which is applied in the dry

condition of garments is called dry process.
Where no or a little amount of water is required

This process is done at unwashed condition.

Basically denim garments are treated here but
now-a-days twill garments are also treated.
Flowchart of Dry Processes
 Whiskering
✓ Whiskering is the most common dry process for denim garments.
This is done by making a pattern and put the garments then
remove color from pattern area. After wash we can see the pattern
mark. It is one kind of design on the garments.
✓ The idea of whiskers is taken from the worn out lines and
impression patterns generated by natural wearing on hips and
front thigh area. On old jeans, a number of patterns can be finding
consequential to fabric, body shape of user or sitting posture. It is
also known as Cat's Whisker

✓ Whiskering are two types depends on process:

a) Manual Whiskering
b) Laser Whiskering
 a) Manual Whiskering
✓ This whiskering is done by manual way
with the help of a pattern. On denim
garments we have done it by abrasive
paper.
✓ Material needed for manual whisker
a) Pattern
b) Abrasive paper
c) Marking chalk
✓ Procedure:
I. Put the whisker pattern into the
garments
II. Then rub the pattern area according to
standard intensity by abrasive paper
III. Quality check
 b) Laser Whiskering
✓ This whiskering is done by laser machine. Here, garments specific area
are burned by imposing laser with high intensity .After wash the burned
indigo color will be removed and whisker effect will be visible.

✓ Procedure:
a. Making the design by photoshop/illustrator
b. Put the garments on the machine surface
c. Set the intensity of burn
d. Burn the garments
e. Quality check

✓ Required Equipments:
a. Laser Machine
b. Leather hand gloves and goggles for safety.
 Hand Scrapping
✓ This process is used to remove/fade the color from specific
area of the garments with an abrasive paper. The faded effect is
nicely visible after wash.
✓ Required Tools: Abrasive paper, Dummy, Chalk for marking
and masks.
 Hand Scrapping
✓ Working Procedure:
a. Specify the scrapping area
b. Put the garments into dummy
c. Scrapping with emery paper
d. Quality checking

Abrasive Paper
✓ Used for scrapping. It has so many
grade e.g. 220,300,400 and 600. If
the number is less then the abrasion
power is more and vice versa.
 Tagging
Tagging or tacking is the process where Garments is folded three or
four times and tacked through folds. Then the garments is washed and
dried. Permanent fold appears after removal of tag pin. In this case, the
inner of the fold is dark due to less exposure of rubbing and
chemicals .Faded effect comeson the folded parts.
It is done at unwashed condition of garments. After wash we will get it
effect. Maximum time we will do it at edge area by folding the
garments. Sometimes this process damages the garments by creating
hole.
 Tagging
✓ Materials Needed: ✓ Procedure:
a. Tag gun ✓ Marking the garments
b. Tag pin ✓ Fold the garments as per
c. Chalk standard
d. Hand gloves ✓ Then tag the garments
✓ Quality check
 Destroy
✓ ‘Destruction’ is an art which make denim look unique & used. To
make destruction pen type of stone tools being used in mid of wash
process to apply on desired area. It can also be achieved by cutting
it thru knife the warp yarns & keep the weft yarn as is to show
white thread. Holes also can be made by cutting weft & warp yarns
✓ This process is done by pen grinding machine which destroy only
the warp yarns of the fabrics or garments. The destroy look on the
garments is best viewed after washing.
 Destroy
Working Procedure: ✓ Necessary Tools:
a. Pen grinding machine
a. Marking the area
b. Marking chalk
b. Cut the warp thread of c. Pattern board
garments by pen d. Hand gloves
grinder. e. Masks
c. Remove the cut warp
thread by twiser.
d. Check the quality.
 Grinding
✓ This process is done at edges area of
garments. If the garments require two
time wash in that case grinding is done
after first wash to avoid the damages of
garments.
✓ Materials Needed:
a. Grinding machine
b. Hand gloves for safety.
✓ Procedure:
a. Run the machine
b. Touching the edge of garments
according to standard.
c. Quality Check.
 PP Spray
✓ Potassium Permanganate is sprayed on the garments at
specific area that oxidizes the color. PP spraying is done with
the help of gun by air pressure. After that garments are dried
and finally neutralize it to get the desired effect.
 PP Spray
✓ Materials Needed:
✓ Procedure:
✓ Spray gun.
a. Placement of garments on dummy. ✓ PP solution
b. Marking PP spray area. ✓ Air pressure
c. Spraying PP on specific area ✓ Mask
d. Drying
e. Neutralization
f. Quality check
 PP spot/Bleach spot
✓ PP Spot is being done on denim garments to achieve local abraded area to
appear whiter than back ground indigo color shade. In this process pp or
bleach solution is applied to get desired effect. After neutralization the
final look is created. The difference between these two is by pp spot we
get white look spot and bleach we get slightly yellowish spot.
✓ Materials:
i. PP or bleach solution
ii. Dropper
iii. Neutralization agent
iv. Hand gloves
✓ Procedure:
a. Marking the garments
b. Drop the solution of PP or bleach
c. Neutralization
d. Quality check
 PP sponging or Rubbing
✓ By this process we get more ✓ Material needed
high-low effect. There is a ✓ PP solution
difference between spray and ✓ Phosphoric acid
rubbing. By pp spray more ✓ Sponge
high-low effect on the area ✓ Dummy
will not be produced by ✓ Hanger
rubbing/sponging more high- ✓ Hand gloves for safety.
low effect will be produced.
But this process is difficult to ✓ Procedure:
handle. ✓ Put the garments into the
✓ Here, pp is used as the dummy
main chemical and the final ✓ Rubbing PP solution by sponge
effect on the garments will ✓ Dry the garments by hanging
be visible after ✓ Neutralization
✓ Quality Check.
neutralization process.
 P.P sponging procedure on Denim Shirt

Raw Garments Rubbing/Sponging Heated by sunlight

Dried Final effect (Front side) Final effect (Back side)

 Resin Spray
✓ This process in done for coating on the garments. When garments
need to be very smooth and hard then this process is applied. It is
done by spraying resin on the full garments then put into oven for
curing the garments. After curing, surface coating become visible
on the garments.

✓ Materials needed
1. Spray gun
2. Resin
3. Catalyst
✓ Procedure:
I. Put the garments into dummy
II. Spray resin
III. Curing in oven
IV. Check the quality
 Resin spot
✓ Resin spot is used for making coating on specific area of the garments. Here, resin
is prepared by resin and binder mixing with water at required level. Then, the
solution is applied according to the design. After making spot, garments are sent
to oven for curing. After curing washing process is done. This process is done at
unwashed condition because the design is made by raw denim color for resin
effect, the color will not cut.
✓ Materials:
a) Resin
b) Catalyst
c) Oven
d) Gloves for safety
✓ Procedure:
✓ Marking the garments
✓ Make spot of resin
✓ Curing
✓ Washing
✓ Quality check
 Pigments Spray
✓ By this process uneven color look at garments surface is created. After
completing wet process, the pigment is sprayed on the garments surface.
Pigment solution is made by pigment , binder and other auxiliaries. After
spraying curing is done for fixation.
✓ Equipments:
a. Spray gun
b. Pigment solution
c. Oven
d. Hand gloves for safety

✓ Procedure:
I. Preparation of pigment solution
II. Spray or drop the solution on the garments
III. Oven for curing
IV. Quality Check
 2-D Crinkle
✓ This process is done by crinkle machine or by manual clipping of
a specific area and the effect is more visible at front and back knee
area. In this process, two dimensional effect is produced.
✓ Material needed for crinkle:
a. Crinkle machine
b. Resin
c. Clip
d. White fabric
✓ Process flow:
a. Applying Resin on Garments
b. Garment Placement on machine
c. Squeeze the garments
d. Keep it up to retention time (Curing)
e. Quality Check.
 3-D Crinkle
✓ This effect is found by the special resin treatments of garments. Here, resin
chemical is used on whiskered areas to make the effect permanent. By this
system, 3-dimensional effect is produced. The final effect is more visible after
washing the garments.
✓ Tools used
✓ 3D crinkle machine
✓ Resin
✓ White fabric
✓ Procedure:
a. Apply resin
b. Placement into dummy
c. Make 3D crinkle as per standard
d. Pre-cure the garments at 90 degree C
e. Taken out the garments from machine
f. Put into curing oven for full cure
g. Quality check
 Heat Pressing
✓ Heat pressing is used to get permanents pleats of garments. First we
spray resin on specific area of garments then pressing by heat press then
we will get a permanent pleated.

✓ Equipments:
I. Resin
II. Heat press machine

✓ Procedure:
✓ Keep the garments on the pressing machine
✓ Apply resin on the required area
✓ Make the crinkle on resin area
✓ Press the garments with steam
✓ Check the quality garments.