Driving

Description
Servicing
 CONTENTS

I NTRODUCTION Brakes 44
Front end 44
Foreword 5 Wheels and tyres 45
Volvo Service Organization 6 Body 47
Warranty and Service Booklet 6 Servicing before a long-distance trip 49
7 Procedure in cold weather 49
Type Designations
Wiring diagram 60
Lubricating chart 62
DRIVING
FAULT TRACING
I nstruments and controls 8
I nterior and body 14
Starting and driving 19 When the engine stalls 51
Running-in 19 Fault tracing scheme 52
Starting the engine 19
Gear-changing 21
Towing 22 SPECIFICATIONS

Measurements and weights 54

TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION Engine 54
Electrical system 55
Engine compartment 23 Power transmission 56
Engine 24 Front end 56
Electrical system 25 Wheels and tyres 57
Power transmission 26 Capacities 57
Front end and steering 27 Tool Kit 57
Wheels and tyres 28
Brakes 28

SERVICING

General 29
Maintenance scheme 30
Lubrication 32
Oil changes 33
Engine 35
Electrical system 40
Power transmission 44

Before you start driving your new Volvo
please read through this instruction book
carefully. It contains all the information
you need to be able to drive and service
your vehicle in the best possible way.
By following the instructions given in
this book, you will find that your Volvo
will come up to all the expectations
concerning economical operation and
excellent performance that you have
every right to expect of a top-quality
vehicle.
This instruction book is not intended to
be a comprehensive technical manual
and does not claim to make the reader
i nto a perfect car mechanic. It will,
however, show you how to look after
your vehicle so that trouble in the future
FOREWORD
can be avoided. The better you know
your Volvo, the better service it can
give you. Even for an experienced
motorist this book can contain some
valuable information.
For a more detailed mechanical descrip-
tion and repair procedures, we refer
you to the special Service Manual for
the car.
5
I NTRODUCTION
Volvo Service Organization
To get the most out of the invested
capital represented by a car, it must be
l ooked after and serviced rationally.
Volvo has gone to a great deal of
trouble in the design and selection of
material to ensure that the car in ques-
tion only requires a minimum of servic-
i ng. We rely, however, on your co-ope-
ration with regards to the future main-
tenance of your vehicle. To help you
with this, Volvo has built up a world-
wide service organization. All Volvo
dealers have specially trained personnel
and receive a continuous supply of
technical information from the Volvo
Service Organization concerning repairs
and adjustments. They have also special
tools, designed at the Volvo factory.
Moreover, all Volvo dealers have a
comprehensive stock of spare parts
which is your guarantee for genuine
6
Volvo spares. That is why our dealers
are in the best possible position to
give your vehicle first-class service
concerning both maintenance operations
and repairs. You should also refer to
your dealer for any information about
your Volvo that is not included in this
i nstruction book.
Not only in your own country is there a
Volvo workshop within easy reach. Volvo
has also a widely distributed service
network in other countries.
Warranty and Service Booklet
A warranty and service booklet accom-
panies each vehicle when it is delive-
red. This booklet contains a coupon
entitling you to a cost-free service in-
spection after 2 500 km (1 500 miles)
running. If possible, let the dealer who
supplied the vehicle carry out this ser-
vice inspection. If necessary, however,
any of our dealers can do this.
I f our six-months guarantee is to apply,
we make one absolute condition and
that is that the above-mentioned cost-
free inspection is carried out at roughly
the mileage shown and that the vehicle
has been looked after in accordance
with the instructions given in this book.
After the cost-free service inspection has
been carried out, you should make an
agreement with your dealer concerning
continued, regular service inspections
i n accordance with the suggestions made
i n our Service Book. Thorough and re-
gular servicing is of vital importance
for the performance and length of life of
the vehicle.
Always use genuine Volvo spares.
 I NTRODUCTION

TYPE DESIGNATIONS

I n all correspondence concerning your

vehicle with the dealer and when order-
i ng spare parts, the type designation,
chassis and engine number should al-
ways be quoted.
This instruction book deals with vehicles
having the following type designations:

1. Vehicle type designation, code num-

bers for colour and upholstery.
2. Body number.
3. Chassis number, type and model
designation.
4. Type designation, serial number and
part number of engine.
5. Type designation, serial number and
part number of gearbox.
6. Number of final drive gear teeth and
reduction ratios on a plate at the
l ower part of the inspection cover.
DRIVING
 DRIVING

I NSTRUMENTS AND CONTROLS

1. Windscreen wiper and washer 1 Control for windscreen wipers and

2. Choke control washers
The windscreen wipers are operated
3. Lighting switch electrically and can be adjusted to
4. Direction indicator switch, dimmer, two speeds. Normal speed is attained
headlight signaller by pulling the control out to the first
5. Ignition switch and steering wheel notch. This speed is recommended
l ock for normal driving in rainy weather
6. Instrument panel or snow.
When the control is pulled out fully,
7. Fan the wipers operate at full speed. Full
8. Cigarette lighter speed is only recommended when
9. Heater/ventilation controls driving in heavy rain or when driving
1 0. Ash tray at high speed when it is raining.
When the control is pressed in fully,
11. Place for radio the wiper blades stop on reaching
1 2. Place for loudspeaker their parking position. 3 Lighting switch
1 3. Grab handle The windscreen washers are engaged The car headlights are operated by
by turning the control clockwise. The means of a pull-out type switch on
1 4. Handbrake
washers can be used even when the the dashboard as well as a lever on
1 5. Fresh-air intake, left the steering column (4).
windscreen wipers are not in opera-
1 6. Bonnet catch tion. The liquid container for the All the lights are extinguished when
1 7. Clutch pedal washers is located on the right-hand the lighting switch is pushed in fully.
side of the cowl in the engine com- Pulling the lighting switch out to the
1 8. Brake pedal
partment and holds about 1.5 litres half-way position lights up the park-.
1 9. Accelerator pedal i ng lights and when it is fully drawn
(2.75 I mp. pints=3.25 US pints).
20. Gear lever out the full or dipped headlights are
21. Fuse compartment on depending on the position of the
2 Choke control
The choke control is used when the l ever (4).
22. Glove compartment
engine is started from cold. When
23. Fresh-air intake, right pulled out about 15-20 mm ( 1/2 " -
the control i nfluences the
The instruments and operating controls
throttle flap and increases idling
3
/4 " ),

are described in more detail in the fol- speed. Pulling the control out further
l owing pages with reference to the
enriches the fuel-air mixture, this
numbers in the illustration. resulting in still greater idling speed.

9
DRIVING
5 Ignition switch and steering wheel
4 Indicators dimmer and headlight
signaller
The direction indicators and head-
li ght signalling are controlled by
means of the switch lever on the left-
hand side of the steering column
behind the steering wheel.
Moving the lever upwards operates
the right-indicator, and downwards
the left-indicator.
Switching from fullbeam to dipped
lights and vice versa is carried out
by moving the lever towards the
steering wheel. Here the lighting
switch (3) should be pulled out fully.
When the lever is used for signalling,
10
the lighting switch (3) should either be
pushed in fully or pulled out one
notch. The lighting switch (3) should
either be pushed in fully (headlights
switched off) or pulled out one notch
(parking lights on).
l ock
There are four key positions: (0)
Locking position, (1) Garage posi-
tion, (2) Driving position and (3)
Starting position.
The key can only be inserted or
taken out of the lock in the Locking
position and Garage position.
When the key is taken out of the
l ock in the Locking position, the
steering wheel is automatically lock-
ed.
I f the key is removed from the lock
i n the Garage position, the electrical
system of the car will be discon-
nected except for the radio. The
steering wheel is not locked. During
driving the key should be in the Driv-
i ng position.
To start the engine, turn the key to
the Starting position and this auto-
matically engages the starter motor.
As soon as the engine starts, release
the key which then automatically
returns to the driving position.
I f the car is parked in such a way
as to make it difficult to unlock the
steering wheel, unlocking can be
made easier by slightly turning the
steering wheel one way and then
the other.

6 Instrument panel
A Control for instrument lighting
B Fuel gauge
C Speedometer
D Temperature gauge, coolant
E Warning lamp, charging
F Control lamp, direction signals
G Warning lamp, handbrake
H Control lamp, fullbeam headlights
I Warning lamp, oil pressure
J Mileometer
K Speed warning indicator
L Trip meter
M Zero-setter for trip meter
A Control for instrument lighting
Turning the small knob clockwise or
anti-clockwise increases or reduces
the lighting on the instrument panel.
B Fuel gauge
The fuel gauge indicates approxima-
tely the amount of fuel in the tank.
The gauge is marked "full", "half",
"reserve" and "empty". The red field
between "reserve" and "empty" is a
reminder that tanking should be
carried out. When the indicator is on
"reserve", there are approx. 8 litres
(2 Imp. galls=2 5 US galls) in the
.
tank. The gauge indicator registers
when the ignition is switched on.
DRIVING
C Speedometer
The speedometer consists of a hori-
zontal scale marked in intervals of
1 0 m.p.h. The speed is indicated in
the form of a red ribbon.
D Temperature gauge, coolant
The temperature gauge shows the
temperature of the cooling system
and thus indicates the working
temperature of the engine. The indi-
cator on this gauge should remain
within the green field.
E Warning lamp, charging
This shows a bright, red light when
the battery is discharging, which is
normal at idling speed. As soon as
you accelerate a little, it should go
out. Should it light up during driving,
this means either that there is some
fault in the electrical system or that
the fan belt is not sufficiently ten-
sioned and is thus slipping on the
pulley, this causing poor charging.
F Control lamp, directional signals
This lamp flashes with a green light
when the direction indicator switch
is moved upwards or downwards and
the ignition is on.
G Warning lamp, handbrake
This lamp lights up with a bright, red
li ght when the handbrake is applied
and the ignition is on. On late model
cars the light also serves as a brake
circuit failure indicator. If the light
comes on when the handbrake is off,
11
DRIVING
this means that one of the brake
circuits is not functioning and the car
should be taken to a garage as soon
as possible for a check.
H Control lamp, fullbeam headlights
This lamp lights up with a bright, blue
li ght when the full headlights are
switched on with the switch lever (4).
I Warning lamp, oil pressure
This lamp lights up with a bright,
yellow light when the engine oil
pressure is too low. When the igni-
tion is switched on, the lamp should
li ght up and then go out again when
the engine has been started. Never
start driving until the lamp goes out.
Should the lamp light up during driv-
i ng, stop the engine and find out the
reason for this.
I n most cases it means that the oil
level is too low. After hard driving
i t may happen that the warning lamp
li ghts up when the engine goes down
to idling speed. This is normal pro-
viding it goes out again when the
engine speed is increased.
J Mileometer
The mileometer shows the total di-
stance covered in miles. After 999999
miles the mechanism returns to zero
and starts to go round again.
K Speed warning indicator
The speed warning indicator is
mounted on the speedometer and
consists of a manually adjustable
sliding arrow. Its purpose is to re-
12
mind the driver about a particular
maximum permissible speed in con-
nection, e.g. with speed limiting.
L Trip meter
The trip meter consists of a counting
mechanism which measures distances
of up to maximum 999 miles. The
window furthest to the right is gra-
duated in tenths of a mile and thus
can be used to measure even short
distances.
M Zero-setter for trip meter
The trip meter is set to zero by push-
i ng in the zero-setter.
7 Fan control
During driving, sufficient air flow is 8 Cigarette lighter
obtained for the ventilation system To use the cigarette lighter, push it
due to the overpressure which exists i n. A catch holds the lighter in the
i n the air-intake of the car. If large i nserted position until it attains suffi-
quantities of air are required, the fan cient heat when it automatically
should be used. springs out backwards.
This is operated by means of the
pull-out control which can be set at
three different positions. Pushing the
control in fully stops the fan, pulling
i t out to the first notch operates the
fan at half speed and when the con-
trol is pulled out fully, the fan works
at full speed.

9 Heater/ventilation controls
The control on the left (TEMP) regu-
l ates the temperature of the incom-
i ng air. The middle control (DEFR)
regulates the air flow to the winds-
creen and rear window. And the con-
trol to the right (FLOOR) regulates
the air flow to the front seat and rear
seat floor.
The temperature, likewise the air
flow, is increased by turning the con-
trol downwards whereby a red strip
marked down the middle of the con-
trol in question indicates the size of
the opening. Note that when altering
the temperature control, there will be
a slight delay before the desired
temperature is reached.
During cold or damp weather, mist
can easily form on the windows,
especially with a full number of pas-
sengers. The best way of getting rid
DRIVING
1 5 Fresh-air control, left
By sliding the control forwards, a
fresh-air intake on the driver's side
opens.
1 6 Bonnet catch
The bonnet catch is released by
pulling the handle straight out. See
also page 18.
20 Gear lever
For gear lever positions, see the
Figure on page 21.
23 Fresh-air control, right
By sliding the control forwards, a
fresh-air intake on the passenger's
side opens.
of this or to avoid it altogether is
to open the ventilation windows and
to set the fan and defroster controls
at maximum output.
1 4 Handbrake
The handbrake lever is placed imme-
diately to the left of the driving seat.
The handbrake operates only on the
rear wheels. When the brake is
applied and the ignition is on, a red
warning lamp (6, G) lights up on the
i nstrument panel.
13
DRIVING
I NTERIOR AND BODY
Front seats
The front seats can be slid backwards
or forwards after the knob on the out-
side of the seat is pressed down. Exert
l everage with your feet on the floor and
slide the seat to the most comfortable
position.
The rake is smoothly adjustable by means
of the adjuster lever on the outside of
the backrest support. Lift the lever up-
wards in order to release the' friction
catch and adjust the backrest to the
desired position. Lock the backrest by
pressing down the lever.
14
Lumber support
The front seats are provided with an
adjustable lumbar support. This is ad-
justed by means of the knob on the inside
of the backrest. To tension the lumbar
support, and thus exert more pressure
against the small of the back, turn the
knob clockwise and vice versa.
The height of the seat can be adjusted
to three different positions. To do this,
remove the seat cushion in order to
reach the bolts in the seat bracket.
Remove the two bolts attaching the seat
frame to the seat bracket. Set the seat
to the desired position and fit the bolts
i nto the holes which coincide.
When this adjustment is being carried
out it may also be desirable or neces-
sary to adjust the entire inclination angle
of the seat. This is done with the eyelet
screw at the front under the seat frame.
Remove the bolt which goes through the
eyelet and tilt the seat backwards. Then
slacken the locknut on the floor and
adjust the eyelet screw to the desired

l ength. Finally, secure the eyelet screw
with the locknut.
The passenger seat can be turned op-
posite to the driving direction so as to
provide a safety seat for a small child.
This is done by removing the four nuts
holding the seat frame to the slide rails.
Lift off the seat and turn it round com-
pletely, again tightening the nuts firmly.
Note that the catch fittings must remain
i n position on the right-hand side in order
to be able to lock the seat.
Rear seat
The rear seat is provided with a folding
armrest in the middle.
DRIVING
Fully-reclining front seats
Slide the front seats forward as far as
they can go. Raise the rear seat to the
upper notches on its brackets and place
a support (extra equipment) under the
rear edge. Fold the seat to a level po-
sition. Fold the backrests of the front
seats until they are snugly in line with
the front edge of the rear seat cushion.
Lock the backrests.
Note! Never lift the rear edge of the
rear seat cushion.
15
DRIVING

pre-driving procedure". The length can

be adjusted without difficulty at the
outer, lower attachment. Adjust the belt
so that it fits over the body easily.
When about to use the belt, remove it
from the attaching hook on the door
pillar, draw one band over the waist
and the other across the shoulder and
chest. Finally, lock the belt in the slot
anchorage between the front seats. To
release the belt from the locking slot,
move the small lever mounted at the
side to the rear.
Always make a habit of hanging up the
belt in its place on the door pillar when
i t is not being used. If allowed to lie on
the floor, it will become dirty and frayed

Safety belts and probably be a hindrance when

getting in and out of the vehicle.
Safety belts for both the front seats are Now and again check that the bolts
standard for this vehicle. Always try to anchoring the belt are properly tightened
use this simple but effective safety de- and that the belt is in good condition.
vice. Even when driving slowly, for I f the belt has become dirty, it can best
example, in city traffic, serious injury be cleaned with water and synthetic
can arise from sudden, unexpected washing agent. Petrol, thinner, etc. must
stopping. For this reason, always have not be used since they can cause stains.
the safety belt on no matter the kind As the safety belts lose much of their
of driving involved. strength when exposed to violent
The practical design of the belt makes stretching, they should be replaced after
it so easy to use that in no time at all a collision, even though they may appear
i t will quite naturally be a part of the to be undamaged.
16

Doors and locks
The vehicle is fitted with a lock and
keyhole on each of the front doors. All
the doors can be locked on the inside
by pressing down the lock button on the
window ledge. On the front doors this
l ock button lifts automatically when the
door is opened from the inside. On the
rear doors, however, the lock button
must first be pulled up before the doors
can be opened from the inside. This is
an important point with regards to safety
if children are alone in the back.
Many people make it a habit of pressing
down all the lock buttons when driving.
I n itself this is not an extra safety
DRIVING
measure the car is not "more locked"
by doing this. If passengers are locked
in, however, it might be very dange-
rous when an accident occurs, parti-
cularly should a fire break out. For this
reason, always leave at least one door
unlocked when driving.
The front doors can be locked from the
outside by pressing the lock button on
the window ledge down and shutting the
door while the pressing in the outside
door handle catch. To lock the rear doors
i t is not necessary to press in the catches.
Do not leave the keys in the car.
The doors are opened from the inside
by moving the door handle to the rear.
To open the ventilation windows, un-
screw the lock stud on the catch then
press in the stud and turn the handle
I nterior lighting
forwards.
The door locks have been designed with 1. The lamp lights up when the front
a view to providing maximum possible door is opened.
protection against freezing during the 2. The lamp is always extinguished.
winter time. As an extra safety measure, 3. The lamp is always on.
however, you should lubricate the locks
regularly with a suitable anti-freeze
agent. If the lock is already frozen, be Glove compartment
careful lest you break the key in the
l ock. Instead, heat the key and imme-
The vehicle is provided with a glove
diately place it in the lock. In this way
compartment which can be locked. An
the lock will become unfrozen.
i nternally mounted lamp lights up auto-
Should you lose the car keys, contact
matically when the compartment lid opens.
your nearest Volvo dealer for new keys
The same key as that which unlocks the
and quote the code number of the keys
doors and luggage compartment also
which have been lost.
opens the glove compartment.
17
DRIVING

Bonnet Luggage compartment

The bonnet is locked by means of a
catch which is released by pulling out
a handle located to the left under the
i nstrument panel.
When the bonnet locking catch has been
released, the bonnet is still retained by
a safety catch. After this is pressed in,
as shown in the picture above, the bon-
net can be lifted up. When closed check
that the bonnet is properly locked.
The luggage compartment is locked with
the same key as that used for the doors.
The luggage compartment lid is opened
by turning the handle clockwise and
lifting the lid up at same time. The
l uggage compartment lid is balanced
and does not need to be held up. The
spare wheel is securely held in posi-
tian to the right in the compartment.
The jack and tool kit are fastened se-
curely to the spare wheel. Under the
flooring to the left of the luggage com-
partment there is space sufficient for an
extra spare wheel. It can also be used
for storing tools or a reserve fuel can.

18
 DRIVING

STARTING AND DRIVING

Running-in Warranty inspection Starting the engine

When the vehicle is new, we recommend
that a certain amount of caution be
observed during the running-in period,
for it is during this time that the mov-
able parts of the car must be properly
bedded in so as to obtain smooth and
durable sliding surfaces.
Do not drive at full engine output for
more than short periods during the first
500 km (300 miles) and avoid labouring
i n high gear.
After 2 500 km (1 500 miles) running, the
vehicle should be taken to a Volvo
workshop for the cost-free warranty
i nspection. The control and adjusting
procedure then carried out also includes
an oil change in the engine. It is very
i mportant to ensure that this oil change
i s carried out since during the first
period the engine oil usually collects a
l ot of impurities. After 5 000 km (3000
miles) running, the oil in the engine,
gearbox and rear axle should be chang-
ed. The gearbox and rear axle should
be thoroughly washed out with flushing
oil. After this oil change, future changes
should be carried out at approximately
those intervals indicated in the main-
tenance scheme on page 30 and in the
l ubricating chart at the end of the book.
Before you begin driving your new
Volvo, we would advise you to become
familiar with the vehicle and the various
i nstruments and controls used during
driving. Sit in the car, go through all
the various instruments, test the con-
trols and adjust the seats and rearview
mirrors to the position which suits you
best. When you are comfortably seated
and are acquainted with the location of
the various controls, then you are ready
to begin driving.

All Volvo engines are test-run before

being delivered, partly on test benches
and partly in the vehicle on test tracks.
We are therefore assured that all clear-
ances are satisfactory and we thus
accept no responsibility for damage cau-
sed by careless running-in.

19
DRIVING
Starting a cold engine
1. Check that the handbrake is on and
put the gear lever in neutral.
2. Pull out the choke control fully.
3. Make a habit of always tramping on
the clutch pedal until the engine fires
normally.
4. Turn the ignition key to the starting
position. Release the key as soon as
the engine has started.
5. Push in the choke control until the
best idling speed is obtained. As the
engine becomes warmer push in the
control more and more but never so
far that the engine starts to run un-
evenly. Drive for as short periods as
possible with the choke out. When
the engine is thoroughly warm, the
control should be pushed right in.
After starting a cold engine, do not
race it immediately but run it at
moderate speed and do not subject it
to heavy loading until the engine
temperature has reached normal level.
20
Starting a warm engine
1. Check that the handbrake is applied
and put the gear lever in neutral.
2. Tramp on the clutch pedal.
3. Turn the ignition key to the starting
position. Release the key as soon as
the engine has started. If the engine
does not start immediately, depress
the accelerator pedal fully and hold
it there until the engine has started.
Starting in a garage
Before starting your vehicle in a garage,
always open the garage doors. The ex-
haust gases from the engine contain
carbon monoxide gas which is poisonous
and particularly dangerous since it is in-
visible and odourless.
Warming up the engine
Experience has shown that engines in
vehicles used with frequent stopping
and starting are subject to abnormally
rapid wear. The reason for this is that
the engine is not given a chance to
reach its normal working temperature.
When the engine is cold, it should thus
be taken up to its normal working tem-
perature as quickly as possible. Do not
therefore idle the engine too long but
start driving with a light load on the en-
gine as soon as the oil pressure lamp
has gone out.


DRIVING

Gear-changing Driving with the luggage compart-

ment lid open

The different gear positions are shown While driving with the luggage compart-
i n the illustration opposite. ment lid partly or fully opened, exhaust
The gearbox is fully synchronized on gases (and consequently also carbon
all gears. If this synchronization is to monoxide) can be sucked into the car
function perfectly, the clutch pedal must through the luggage compartment. This
be fully depressed. i nvolves no risk for the passengers.
To obtain good acceleration, it is im- However, the following advice should be
portant that the gear-changing timing is followed on such occasions.
adapted to the road speed in such a 1. Keep all windows closed.
way that the engine speed is maintained 2. Set the fresh air and defroster con-
within suitable limits. If the engine speed trols to the fully-opened position and
is far too low, the pulling power will be the fan control to full speed.
poor. If, on the other hand, the engine
speed is far too high, the fuel consump-
tion will increase, the engine pulling po- Braking
wer will decrease and there will be no
i mprovement in the acceleration.
I f more rapid acceleration is desired, Steady acceleration and gentle braking
however, the range for each speed are characteristic of a good driver, and
shown in the table below can be taken also result in the most economic running.
to its upper limiting value. Never let the Apply the footbrake pedal before going
engine labour in high gear but change i nto a curve and use your gearbox on
down in good time. downhill gradients. This will save unne-
cessary wear on both brake and tyres.
Violent braking is only justified in dange-
rous situations.
Recommended speed ranges, km.p.h. (m.p.h.) for the different speeds

Engine 1 st speed 2nd speed 3rd speed 4th speed

B 18 A 0-45 (0-28) 15 70(10--45 ) 25 100(15-60) 35- (22- )

B 18 B 0-55(0 35) 20 85 (15-55) 30 120(20 75) 40- (25- )
B 18B+
overdrive 0 50(0 30) 15 75 (10-45) 25-110(15 70) 35 * (22 )
* 70 km.p.h. (45 m.p.h.) with overdrive engaged.

21
DRIVING
Towing loop, front
I f the vehicle is to be towed, the tow-
line must not be attached directly to the
bumpers, but should be attached to the
towing loop on the front axle member
according to the illustration above.
During towing, the tow-line should be
kept evenly stretched.
22
Towing loop, rear
I f the vehicle is to be used for towing,
the tow-line should be attached to one
of the two rear towing loops. These are
l ocated under the spare wheel wells.
See illustration above.
Tyres
The car is delivered with tyres built for
stresses which occur at high speeds.
However, it is extremely important that
you maintain the correct air pressure in
the tyres, particularly if you intend driv-
i ng long distances at high average
speeds. It is better to have somewhat
too much rather than too little air in the
tyres. A tyre develops heat quicker if
it contains too little air. Note that the
air pressure should be checked when
the tyre is cold. See page 57 for spe-
cifications.


TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION

Engine compartment

1. Motor, windscreen washers

2. Fluid container, windscreen washers
3. Back-up lights relay
4. Step relay, fullbeam - dipped
headlights
5. Carburettor (B 18 A)
6. Ignition coil
7. Data plate
8. Starter motor
9. Distributor
1 0. Brake servo
11. Brake fluid container
1 2. Oil dipstick
1 3. Battery "
1 4. Steering box
1 5. Fuel filter
1 6. Oil trap
1 7. Oil filler cap
1 8. Radiator
1 9. Carburettor (B 18 B)
20. Air cleaner (B 18 B)
21. Float bowl (B 18 B)
22. Expansion tank
23. Dynamo
24. Air cleaner (B 18 A)

23
TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION
ENGINE
The engine is a four-cylinder, water-
cooled, carburettor unit with overhead
valves. The cylinder block is made of
special alloy cast iron and is cast in a
single unit. The cylinder bores, which
are surrounded by cooling jackets, are
machined directly in the block. The cy-
linder head has separate inlet and ex-
haust ports, one for each valve.
The statically and dynamically balanced
crankshaft is carried in five main bear-
i ngs.
The pistons are made of light-alloy and
the upper compression ring on each
piston is chromed.
Engine type B 18 A has an output of
85 h.p. (SAE) and is fitted with a Zenith
Stromberg horizontal type carburettor 175
CD-2 S.
Engine type B 18 B has an output of 115
h.p. (SAE) and is fitted with twin SU-
horizontal type carburettors SU-H S6.
Fuel system
The fuel pump is of the diaphragm type
and is operated by a cam on the engine
camshaft. The pump draws the fuel from
the tank and feeds it under pressure to
the carburettor. A filter built into the
fuel pump removes any impurities in
the fuel.
24
Lubricating system
Engine lubrication is taken care of by
a gear pump located under the crank-
shaft in the sump. The pump is driven
by a gear from the camshaft.
From the pump the oil is forced through
the oil filter and then along oilways to
the various lubricating points. A relief
valve is built into the oil filter and pre-
vents the oil pressure from reaching
excessively high values.
The oil filter is of the full-flow type, i.e.
all the oil passes through the filter be-
fore continuing on to the engine lubricat-
i ng points.
The filter is an integral unit complete
with insert. When it is time to change
Cooling system
the oil filter, the entire unit is replaced
by a new filter. An overflow valve built
The cooling system is of the sealed
i nto the filter permits oil to by-pass the
pressure type with circulation pump.
filter if the resistance in the filter should
When the engine is cold, the coolant
be excessive.
circulates only inside the engine. As the
engine warms up, a thermostat valve
begins opening the outlet to the radiator.
Positive crankcase ventilation
When the thermostat is fully opened, all
the coolant flows through the radiator.
Certain models are provided with posi- The circulation is regulated during driv-
tive crankcase ventilation which prevents i ng by the thermostat so that the tem-
the gases in the crankcase from being perature of the engine is kept within the
released into the atmosphere. Instead, correct values.
they are sucked into the engine through A special expansion tank prevents air
the induction manifold and take part in from circulating with the coolant as this
the combustion process. would cause corrosion in the cooling
system. The air is gradually separated in
the upper tank of the radiator and for-
 TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION

ced out into the expansion tank by the

variations in volume which occur in
connection with the changes in tempera-
ture and engine speed.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

The electrical system is of the 12-volt

type and is fitted with a voltage-regulat-
ed dynamo. The starter motor is ope-
rated from the instrument panel by
means of the ignition switch.This switch is
also the main switch for the rest of the
electrical system. The cables to the
headlights, parking lights and internal
li ghting, however, are not taken over
the ignition switch but can be switched
on and off without the ignition being on.

Lighting Fuses 4. Control lamps 5A

I nstruments
The front lighting on the vehicle consists The electrical system is protected by Direction indicators
of two headlights (full and dipped) to- means of fuses fitted in a fuse compart- 5. Spare
gether with two direction indicators and ment under the instrument panel. When Overdrive
parking lights. replacing a fuse, make sure that you use 6. Internal lighting 5A
At the rear, the lighting consists of two one with the correct rating. If one of the Glove compartment
tail lights including direction indicators, fuses should blow repeatedly, do not fit li ght
l amps for the tail lights brake warning a more powerful fuse. Instead, take the Dipper relay
li ghts and back-up lights. There are also vehicle to a workshop to check the 7. Brake lights 5A
two lights for the rear number plate electrical system. 8. Left tail light 5A
li ghting. The back of the fuse compartment cover Parking lights
The internal lighting consists of a roof has room for a number of spare fuses. I nstrument lighting
li ght and one in the glove compartment. Number plate lighting
Concerning replacement of bulbs, see 1. Windscreen wipers 8A (left-hand steering)
pages 41, 42 and 43. Windscreen washers 9. Right tail light 5A
2. Horn 8A Parking lights
Back-up lights Number plate lighting
3. Heater fan 8A (right-hand steering)

25
TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION
POWER TRANSMISSION
Clutch
The function of the clutch is to transmit
the power from the engine to the gear-
box. The clutch is of the single dry plate
type. Pressure on the pressure plate is
obtained from a diaphragm spring which
i n turn is controlled by the clutch pedal
via the throw-out yoke.
26
Gearbox
The gearbox is synchronized on all the
forward gears: this means that gear-
changing can be carried out without
double declutching. Since the gearbox
i s fitted with helical gears and the gear
l ever is rubber- insulated, excellent
sound insulation is obtained. See page
56 for more technical data.
Propeller shaft
The propeller shaft, which is the con-
necting link between the gearbox and
the rear axle, is divided into two sec-
tions. The forward section is flexibly
mounted at its rear end in a bearing
suspended in a rubberized ring.

Rear axle
Engine torque is transmitted via the pro-
peller shaft to the rear wheels through
the rear axle. The rear axle is of the
hypoid type, that is, the drive pinion lies
below the centre line of the drive shafts.
See page 56 for further technical data.
TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION
FRONT END AND STEERING
Front end
The vehicle is fitted with independent
front wheel suspension. The front wheel
suspension components are mounted on
a robust box member bolted firmly to the
front section of the body.
Steering
The steering is of the cam-and-roller type.
Movements of the steering wheel are
transmitted via the worm on the steer-
i ng column to the roller on the pitman
shaft, which in turn operates the wheels
through a linkage system.
27
TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION

WHEELS AND TYRES

The vehicle has pressed steel wheels

with lugs for the attachment of the hub
caps. All wheels have been carefully
balanced. The tyres are tubeless which
means less risk of leakage and punctur-
i ng. The tyre size specification is 165
S15.

BRAKES

The brake system is of the two-circuit
type with disc brakes all round. The
system is provided with a tandem-type
master cylinder and a directly-operating
servo cylinder. When the brake pedal is
depressed, the master cylinder is i n-
fluenced mechanically via the servo cy-
linder, this reinforcing the pedal force
about three times. The brake pressure
i s transmitted hydraulically from the
master cylinder through brake lines to
the wheel brake unit cylinders. The plung-
28
ers in these are then pressed outwards
and apply the brake pads. The pressure
lines to the rear wheel brakes are pro-
vided with a reducer valve which pre-
vents involuntary locking of the rear
wheels .
The principle of the two-circuit system
i s that both front wheels are connected
to one rear wheel, that is, should one
system not function, there is always
braking power on both front wheels and
the other rear wheel. At normal pedal
pressure the braking effect of half the
circuit is 50 %, but when the pedal
pressure is increased, about 80 % of
the full braking power can be obtained
on half the circuit. This provides maxi-
mum safety and prevents side-dragging
tendencies and rear-end lurching.
The handbrake operates the rear wheels
mechanically as their brake discs have
also been designed as brake drums in
order to incorporate the brake shoes
for the handbrake.

GENERAL
Before the vehicle was delivered from
the factory it was subjected to a very
thorough inspection. Your dealer, in his
turn, carried out a further delivery in-
spection in accordance with the specifi-
cations of the Volvo Factory. In addition
to this there is the cost-free service
i nspection after 2 500 km (1 500 miles).
After this inspection the servicing of the
vehicle should follow the routine of the
service book which is based on a system
with all-round lubrication after every 5000
km (3000 miles) and service inspections
after every 10 000 km (6 000 miles) runn-
i ng.
The simplest way to provide the vehicle
with the servicing it requires is to have
all the servicing done by a Volvo work-
shop. You will then have the work spe-
cified in the service book carried out in
accordance with fixed prices and the
workshop stamp in the service book
will show how the vehicle is being
serviced.
When the car was being designed,
particular attention was given to the
"safety details" (e.g. front end, brakes
and steering). They are calculated to
withstand the severest stresses with a
wide safety margin. However, if you use
your car for hard driving, you should
take the precaution of checking these
SERVICING
parts for fatigue cracks sometime during
the useful lifetime of the car, for in-
stance when the parts concerned are
being reconditioned.
I f you prefer to carry out the simpler
servicing procedures yourself or if you
are sometimes obliged to have them
done by a workshop outside the Volvo
organization, this chapter contains some
advice as to when and how they should
be carried out. For the sake of con-
venience, the servicing procedures have
been summarized in a maintenance
scheme in the following pages.
29
SERVICING

Maintenance scheme

I n the maintenance scheme below the
servicing procedures have been given
certain numbers which refer to the de-
tailed descriptions on the following
pages.
Some of the work must be carried out
by skilled mechanics or requires the use
of special tools and these have been
marked 0.
 SERVICING

I n addition to the servicing procedures a) lighting, including brake warning

mentioned in this scheme you should li ghts
also regularly check the following from b) direction indicator flashers
the point of view of traffic safety: c) horn
SERVICING

LUBRICATION

Chassis maintenance

To simplify maintenance of your Volvo,

the vehicle has been equipped with ball
joints, steering rods and propeller shafts
of such a construction that they do not
require regular lubrication. This has
been possible due to the fact that points
that normally require lubricating have
been packed with very durable grease
at the factory and then carefully sealed,
thus obviating the need for subsequent
l ubrication.
However, to ensure that these parts are
functioning properly, it is necessary to
i nspect their seals and rubber sleeves
thoroughly after every 10 000 km ( 6000
No. Lubricating point Lubricant
miles) or at least once a year. 1 Body lubrication
Oil should be changed or the oil level To avoid squeaks and unnecessary 1. Bonnet catch Paraffin wax
checked after every 5 000 km (3000 wear, the body should be lubricated 2. Bonnet hinges Oil
miles) in accordance with the lubricating every 10 000 km (6000 miles) or at 3. Ventilator window catches Oil
chart at the end of the book. After every l east once a year.
and hinges
4. Catches Paraffin wax
1 0 000 km (6000 miles) the vehicle During the winter season the door
5. Door lock outer sliding Paraffin wax
should undergo the 10000 km (6000 l ocks and luggage compartment lock surfaces
miles) inspection at a Volvo workshop. should be treatment with a suitable 6. Door handle lock buttons Paraffin wax
The measures taken in this inspection anti-freeze agent to prevent them Key holes Silicon wax
are also to be found in the lubricating from freezing up. 7. Luggage compartment Oil
chart. hinges
You should follow the recommendations 8. Luggage compartment lock Oil
Key holes Silicon oil
of the Service Booklet, which are based
on Volvo's own investigations. Always 9. Door checks Paraffin wax
1 0. Door hinges
use only first-class lubricant of a well- Oil
known make. The right lubricants in the 11. Driving seat slide rails Paraffin wax
and catches
right quantity at the right time will in-
12. Window lifts Oil and grease
crease both the lifetime and the reliability Locks Silicon grease
of your car. (accessible after door
upholstery panels have
been removed)

32

2 Check the oil level in the engine
The oil level in the engine should be
checked each time the fuel tank is
filled. The check should be carried
out with the engine switched off but
warm and, in order to obtain compar-
able values, about 1 minute after the
engine has been stopped. Wipe the
dipstick before measuring. The oil
l evel should be between the two
marks on the dipstick. It must never
be permitted to go down below the
l ower mark but, on the other hand,
i t should not be above the upper
SERVICING
mark since oil consumption will then become warm but cools down bet-
be abnormally high. If necessary top ween individual journeys.
up by filling through the oil filler Unfavourable driving conditions con-
hole on the rocker-arm casing with cerns continuous driving in congest-
new oil of the same type already in ed traffic with much stopping and
the engine. starting and long periods with the
engine idling.
3 Changing the engine oil The old oil is drained off at the oil
For lubrication of the engine, oil "For changing by removing the drainage
Service MS" should be used. The plug on the sump. Drainage should
viscosity selected should be accord- take place after driving when the
i ng to the table below. Multigrade oil is still warm.
oil SAE 10 W-30, which covers the
entire temperature range, is recom-
mended.
The intervals between oil changes
depend to a great extent on the
driving conditions, see table below.
Light driving conditions concern
l ong-distance driving on motorways
with the engine thoroughly warm and
with infrequent stopping and starting.
Normal driving conditions concern
relatively short distances (not inter-
rupted by frequent stopping and
starting) when the engine is able to
Oil change intervals,
Oil grade Oil capacity
I
km (miles)*
Operating Summer Winter Multigrade SAE 10 W-30 For oil I ncluding
Condition or motor oil "For Service MS" changing oil filter
Viscosity: below 0 (32 F)
° °
Light 5000 (3000) 5000 (3000)
SAE 10 W 3.25 litres 3.75 litres
Normal 5000 (3000) 2500 (1500) between 0 C and +30 C (5 /4 I mp. pints (6 /8 I mp. pints
° ° 3 5
(32-90 ° F) SAE 20 =7 US pints) =8 1/4 US pints)
Unfavourable 2500 (1500) 2500 (1500) above +30 C (90 F) SAE 30
° °
* During the running-in period the oil should be changed after the first 2 500 km (1 500 miles).
33
 SERVICING

4-5 Gearbox 6-7 Rear axle 8 Steering box

The oil in the gearbox should be
checked after every 5 000 km (3000
miles). The oil level should be up to
the filler hole. If necessary, top up
with new oil.
After every 40 000 km (25000 miles)
the oil i n the gearbox should be
changed. In the case of a new or
reconditioned gearbox the oil should
also be changed after the first 5000
km (3000 miles) when the gearbox
should be flushed with flushing oil.
The old oil should be drained off
i mmediately after the vehicle has been
run while the oil is still warm.
The oil level in the rear axle should
be checked after every 5 000 km
(3000 miles). The oil level should be
up to the filler hole. If necessary,
top up with new oil.
The oil in the rear axle should be
changed after the first 5 000 km
(3 000 miles). The old oil should be
drained off by removing the cover
on the rear side of the rear axle
casing. This should be carried out
i mmediately after driving while the
oil is still warm. The rear axle should
be thoroughly flushed with flushing
oil before being filled with new oil.
After this only the oil level need be
checked and topping up with new oil
take place if required.
The oil level in the steering box
should be checked after 5 000 km
(3000 miles). The oil level should be
up to the filler plug. If necessary,
top up with new oil. As a rule the
oil in the steering gear does not need
to be changed except during over-
hauling. Should the oil for any reason
need to be changed, the old oil
should be sucked up by means of
an oil syringe which is inserted down
through the filler hole.

Oil grade Viscosity Oil capacity Oil grade Viscosity Oil capacity Oil grade Viscosity Oil capacity
Gear oil SAE 90 0.75 litre Hypoid oil SAE 90 1.3 litres ' Hypoid oil SAE 90 0.25 litre
Continuously below 1 1/4 I mp. pints Continuously below 2 /4 I mp. pints Continuously below /8 I mp. pint
1 3

32 ° F (0 ° C) SAE 80 1.5 U.S. pints 32 ° F (0 ° C) SAE 80 2.75 U.S. pints 32 ° F (0 ° C) SAE 80 1/2 U.S- pint

34
 SERVICING

With regards to the hydraulic brake

system, only brake fluids which fill
the requirements according to SAE
70 R 3 may be used. NOTE: Do not
use brake fluids which are only mar-
ked HD (Heavy Duty) or such like.
From the viewpoint of traffic safety,
it is extremely important to ensure
that poor quality brake fluid is not
used in the hydraulic brake system.
A top-quality brake fluid must satisfy
strict conditions concerning resist-
ance to cold and heat and must have
no detrimental effect on the rubber
components in the brake system.

ENGINE

1 0 Oil filler cap

The oil filler cap is fitted with a filter
9 Brake fluid
for fresh air intended for the crank-
The brake system is provided with
case ventilation. If the filter becomes
two brake fluid containers, one for
blocked by dust from the air passing
each circuit. Both containers are
i n, excessive pressure will develop
filled through a mutual filler hole.
i n the crankcase and this can lead
The brake fluid level can be suitably
to oil leakage. The filter must, there-
checked when tanking in connection
fore, be cleaned after about 40 000
with a check on the engine oil level.
km (25 000 miles) or more often if
The fluid level should be between the
dusty conditions are frequently en-
"Max" and "Min" marks.
countered.
11 Crankcase ventilation
Certain models are provided with po-
sitive crankcase ventilation which pre-
vents the gases in the crankcase from
being released into the atmosphere.
I nstead, they are sucked into the in-
take manifold and take part in the
combustion process whereupon they
are blown out through the exhaust
pipe together with the other combus-
tion gases.
The valve (4) is replaced every
40 000 km (25 000 miles). At the
same time, the oil trap (6), hoses
(3 and 5), nipple (1) and filter (2)
are removed and thoroughly cleaned.
The rubber hoses should be replaced
if they are in a poor condition.

35
 SERVICING

1 2 Oil filter 1 3 Fuel filter 1 4 Air cleaner (B 18 A)

The engine is fitted with a full-flow The fuel filter should be cleaned after The air cleaner should be replaced
type oil filter, which means that all every 10 000 km (6 000 miles). Loosen with a new one after every 40 000
the oil passes through the filter on the screw and remove the cover km (25 000 miles). With continuous
its way from the oil pump to the and strainer and clean these. Check driving in dusty conditions, replace-
various lubricating points. Impurities that the gasket is not damaged and ment must be carried out more fre-
i n the oil thus collect in the filter make sure that it seals properly when quently. When changing the air clea-
and gradually block it. For this reason the cover is fitted. ner, the sealing ring against the
the filter must be changed after carburettor should be checked.
about every 10 000 km (6 000 miles). NOTE: On no account must the ele-
The old filter should be scrapped. If ment be moistened or oiled.
the engine is new or reconditioned,
the filter should, however, be first
changed after 5 000 km (3 000 miles).
I f the oil filter is replaced without
the engine oil being changed, the
engine should be topped up with 0.5
litre (7/8 Imp. pint=1 US pint) of oil.

36

1 7 Compression test
1 8 Fan belt
1 5 Air cleaners (B 18 B)
Normally both the air cleaners should
be replaced with new ones after
every 20 000 km (12 500 miles). The
old ones should be discarded.
With continuous driving in dusty con-
ditions, i t may be necessary to
change the cleaners more often, e.g.,
every 10 000 km (6000 miles). No
kind of cleaning whatsoever should
be carried out between the above-
mentioned changing intervals.
1 6 Valves
The valve clearances should be
checked after every 10 000 km
(6000 miles). The check should be
carried out at a workshop.
SERVICING
To get some idea of the condition of
the engine, ' a compression test
should be carried out after every
1 0 000 km (6000 miles). This test
should preferably be carried out at a
workshop.
The fan belt tension should be
checked after the first 5 000 km (3 000
miles). Due to wear or dirt, this belt
can start slipping with poor cooling
and poor dynamo output as the
result. A new, belt should also be
checked after the first 5 000 km (3 000
miles).
The belt tension can be checked by
pulling the tips of the fan blades in 1 9 Check the coolant level
the correct direction of rotation. The cooling system must be well
There should be definite resistance filled with coolant and not leak if it
to movement before the belt starts i s to operate at maximum efficiency.
slipping. Another way to test the Check the coolant level when tank-
tension is to press in the fan belt at i ng. The level should be between the
a point midway between the dynamo "Max" and "Min" marks on the ex-
and the fan. It should be possible to pansion tank.
press down the belt about 15-20 The check should be carried out with
mm (3/4") with normal pressure. particular thoroughness when the
The check can be suitably carried engine is new or the cooling system
out at a Volvo workshop. has been empty.
37
 SERVICING
Topping-up with coolant
Topping-up with coolant is done by
filling the expansion tank when its
l evel has gone down to the "Min"
mark. Use genuine Volvo anti-freeze
and top up with sufficient amount
so that the level reaches the "Max"
p
mark.
NOTE: Do not top up only with
water, particularly during the winter-
ti me. Water by itself reduces both
the rust-protective and anti-freeze
qualities of the coolant.
38
20 Changing the coolant
The coolant retains its properties for tank to the "Max" level or somewhat
approx. 1 year. After this it should above this. Run the engine warm
be changed. To drain off the cooling and then check the radiator to make
system, open the cock l ocated on the sure that it is completely filled and
engine and loosen the plug on the that the level in the expansion tank
bottom of the radiator. The expan-
i s between the "Min" and "Max"
sion tank is emptied by removing it marks. Top up with coolant if ne-
from its brackets and lifting it to a cessary.
sufficient height so that the coolant
flows into the radiator.
Before filling with new coolant, flush
the entire system with clean water.
The cooling system is filled with
coolant through the filler opening on
top of the radiator. When this is
being done, the heater control should
be set to max. heat to ensure that
the entire system will be filled.
Fill the radiator to the top and fit
on the cap. Then fill the expansion

24 Ignition system
21 22 Sparking plugs, adjusting the
electrode gap, changing the plugs
The sparking plugs should be re-
moved after every 10 000 km (6000
miles) and the electrode gap meas-
ured. The gap should be 0.7-0.8 mm
(0.028-0.032").
The sparking plugs should be changed
after 20 000 km (12 500 miles).
The sparking plugs should be tight-
ened with a torque wrench. When
fitting new plugs, be sure to fit the
right type (see page 55). Consult a
Volvo workshop if you intend chang-
ing to a harder type of plug. The
appearance of the old sparking plugs
will easily tell whether or not they
were the right type for your driving.
SERVICING
7
When changing the sparking plugs,
check also that the protective cover
i s in good condition. Cracked or da-
maged covers should be replaced.
The distributor contact breaker gap
and the engine ignition timing should
be checked every 10 000 km (6000
miles).
All adjusting work should be done
by the workshop which has the
necessary equipment for this pur-
pose. The distributor is one of the
most sensitive units in the engine and
careless handling can lead to de-
creased engine output and high fuel
consumption or even serious damage
to the engine. 25 Carburettor
After every 10 000 km (6000 miles),
Fuel the vehicle should be taken to a
The petrol used as fuel should be at Volvo workshop for a check on the
l east 97* octane for the B 18 A type carburettor or carburettors. At each
engine. For the B 18 B type engine, oil change for the engine, check that
an octane value of 100* is recom- the oil level in the carburettor or in
mended. If petrol with too low an the centre spindle of the carburettor
octane value is used, knocking or reaches up to about 6 mm ( 1/4 ") from
glow ignition can occur. When de- the edge the spindle. If it does not,
li vered from the factory, the B 18 A then top up with the same oil as that
engine is adjusted for fuel with an used in the engine lubricating system.
octane rating of at least 97*, and For constant temperatures below
the B 18 B for an octane of 100*. 20 ° C (-4 ° F), use of hydraulic oil
* Research Method Rating. SAE 5 W/10 W in the centre spindle
i s recommended.
39
 SERVICING
27 Check the state of charge of the
28 Check headlight alignment
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
26 Check the battery electrolyte level
To ensure that the battery functions
properly, the electrolyte level should
be checked regularly. A suitable time
to do this is when the fuel tank is
being filled. The electrolyte level
should be 5-10 mm (3/16-3/8")
over the top of the cell plates. If
the level is too low, top up with
distilled water. Never add too much
distilled water since this can cause
the acid to splash over and possibly
damage the engine compartment.
Never check the electrolyte level by
li ghting a match. The gases formed
i n the cells are highly explosive.
40
battery
The state of charge of the battery
should be checked after every 10 000
km (6 000 miles). The check is car-
ried out with the help of a hydro-
meter, this showing the specific gra-
vity of the electrolyte which varies
with the state of charge. See page
55. When checking the battery, check
also the terminals and terminal bolts
to make sure they are well tightened,
smeared with grease or vaseline and
that the battery is firmly fixed. If
necessary, wipe off the terminals and
terminal bolts with a rag or brush
them with a steel brush before greas-
i ng them.
The alignment of the headlights
should be checked in a workshop
after every 10 000 km (6000 miles).
Remember that the section of the
road lit up by the headlights can
vary depending on the load in the ve-
hicle.
Replacement of bulbs
To obtain maximum lighting effect and
to forestall the chances of lights going
out, the headlight bulbs should be
changed every year, suitably during the
autumn.
The replacement of bulbs in the various
li ghting units is shown on the following
pages. Make sure when fitting lamps
that the guide pin on the socket fits
i nto its corresponding recess.
When fitting headlight bulbs, do not
touch the glass with your fingers. The
reason for this is that grease, oil or
any other impurities can be carbonized
onto the bulb and this can cause dam-
age to the reflector.
 SERVICING

Replacing the roof light bulb

When replacing the roof light bulb, the

l amp shade is pulled straight out so that
the bulb is accessible for changing.

Replacing the front flasher bulbs

Remove the two crosshead screws which

hold the glass. The bulb can now be
removed by pressing it inwards and then
turning it a little clockwise.

41
SERVICING

Replacing the bulbs for the front

parking lights

Remove the two crosshead screws which

hold the glass. The bulb is now access-
i ble for changing.

Replacing the bulbs for the rear

flashers, parking lights, stop lights
and back-up lights

Remove the two crosshead screws which

hold the glass. The bulbs can now be
removed by pressing them inwards and
turning them slightly clockwise at the
same time. The top bulb is the flasher,
the one under that is the back-up light,
the next one under that the stop light
and the one at the bottom the rear light.
Make sure that the sealing strip fits
well against the glass when it is re-
fitted.

42
 SERVICING

Replacing the headlight bulbs

The headlight bulbs are replaced from

the inside the engine compartment in
the following way:
1. Remove the contact for the bulb
holder.
2. Remove the rubber sleeve.
3. Remove the spring which fixes the
P
l amp holder in the correct position.
4. Lift out the bulb holder with the bulb.
The bulb and holder are changed
completely as one unit. When fitting
the bulb holder into the insert, make 1 2
sure that the small retainer engages
i n its notch.

3 4

43
 SERVICING
Replacing the bulbs for the
number plate lighting
The two bulbs for the number plate
li ghting are mounted on a holder located
under the luggage compartment locking
device.
Loosen the two crosshead screws which
hold the glass and remove it. The bulb
i s now accessible for changing.
44
4
POWER TRANSMISSION
29 Checking the clutch yoke free travel
To avoid risk of the clutch slipping,
the clutch yoke free travel should be
checked and adjusted if necessary af-
ter every 10 000 km (6000 miles). If
the clutch does not disengage in a
satisfactory manner, the free travel
of the clutch pedal should also be
checked. For data see page 56.
The clutch should be checked and
adjusted at a workshop which has
the necessary equipment for this.
30 Check the propeller shaft
After every 10 000 km (6 000 miles)
or once a year the rubber seal on
the spline shaft and the universal
joints should be checked. If the
rubber seal is damaged, it should
be replaced and the new seal filled
with molybdenum disulphide grease.
BRAKES
31. Check and overhaul the brakes
After every 10 000 km (6000 miles)
the vehicle should be taken to a
Volvo workshop for a check on the
function of the brakes.
FRONT END
32 Check the front wheel alignment
Correct front wheel alignment is of
vital importance for the steering of
the vehicle. Faulty adjustment can
also mean heavy wear on the tyres.
For this reason, have the front wheel
alignment regularly checked at your
l ocal workshop, for example after
every 10 000 km (6000 miles). If the
vehicle has met with a collision in-
volving heavy impact and it is sus-
pected that the front end may have
been affected, take the vehicle to
a workshop for a check on the front
wheel alignment as soon as possible.
Volvo workshops have special meas-
uring equipment for this purpose and
therefore carry out this control very
quickly. The front wheel alignment
angles are shown on page 56.

33 Check the ball joints, tie-rod, etc.
After every 10 000 km (6000 miles)
the vehicle should be taken to a
workshop for a check on the front
end concerning excessive play in the
ball joints, steering gear, etc.
After every 10 000 km (6000 miles)
or at least once a year, the ball joint
seal should also be checked for
damage and leakage. When new
seals are fitted, they should be filled
with chassis grease.
SERVICING
WHEELS AND TYRES
34 Check the tyre pressure
Make a habit of checking the pres-
sure in the tyres regularly. The simp-
l est way to do this is to check the
pressure at a service station while
the car is being tanked. See page 57
for the correct air pressure.
Do not forget the spare wheel when
checking the air pressure. Even if
this wheel is not used, its air pres-
sure can go down and you may find
that the tyre is flat just when you
need it.
During driving, the temperature of
the tyre rises and thus also the air
pressure in relation to the speed of
the vehicle and its load. Normally i ng and high fuel consumption. Ex-
the air pressure should only be cessively high air pressure means
checked when the tyres are cold. tyre wear along the centre of the
When the tyres are warm, a change tread. It also tends to make travelling
i n pressure should only take place l ess comfortable.
i n those cases when air must be
pumped into the tyres.
For prolonged driving at speeds
above 140 km.p.h. (90 m.p.h.) the
air pressure in the tyres should be
i ncreased by 0.3 kg/cm 2 (4.5 lb./
s q -i n.). Maximum tyre pressure must
not, however, exceed 2.1 kg/cm 2 (30
l b/sq.in.
Excessively low air pressure is one
of the most common reasons for tyre
wear. If the pressure is too low, the
tread shoulders bear the entire brunt
of the load and wear down very
quickly. Tyres which are insufficiently
inflated also result in difficult steer-
45
 SERVICING

Changing a wheel
The spare wheel is stored in a recessed
space to the right in the luggage com-
partment. The jack and tool kit are kept
next to the spare wheel. Before the
vehicle is jacked up, the handbrake
should be applied and one of the gears
engaged. If possible block those wheels
remaining on the ground as an extra
safety precaution.

Removal
1. Prise loose the hub cap with the help
of the spade-shaped lever.
2. Loosen the wheel nuts 1/2-1 turn
1 2 with the help of the box spanner. All
the nuts have right-hand threads
which are loosened by turning them
i n an anti-clockwise direction.
3. Insert the lifting arm of the jack in
the appropriate jack attachment of the
wheel to be changed. Jack up the side
of the car far enough for the wheel
to turn freely.
4. Unscrew the wheel. nuts completely
and lift off the wheel. Be careful
when lifting off the wheel not to da-
mage the threads of the studs.

Fitting
1. Clean the contact surfaces between
wheel and hub and fit on the wheel.
Tighten the nuts until the wheel
makes good contact with the hub
3 4 flange.

46

2. Lower the vehicle and alternate the
nut tightening until all the nuts are
tightened properly.
3. Fit the hub cap by striking it smartly
with the hand opposite the last of
the lugs to engage.
BODY
35 Washing
When the vehicle is new, it should
be washed often to harden the sur-
face finish. Dust and dirt and espe-
cially insects and tar spots can ad-
here firmly and thus damage the
paintwork. Washing and polishing
are also extremely important from
the viewpoint of rust protection. Dur-
i ng the winter, special care should
be taken to ensure that all road salt
residue is washed off as soon as
possible, otherwise corrosion can
easily occur. A vehicle, the body
work of which has been well taken
care of, has also of course a higher
second-hand value, should the owner
consider selling it.
When washing the car, make sure
that it is not exposed to direct sun-
shine since this can cause drying
patches. Begin by softening up the
dirt on the underside of the body
with a jet of water and use if nec-
essary a soft brush as an aid. Then
rinse down the whole body with a
l i ght jet until the dirt has loosened
36 Polishing (waxing)
up. After this wash off the dirt with a
sponge using plenty of water. Start
with the roof of the vehicle and use
preferably lukewarm but not hot
water.
Sometimes washing with only water
is not sufficient. When this is the
case, washing agents must be used.
Be very careful, however, when
choosing a washing agent, since
some of them are directly detrimen-
tal to the surface finish. Asphalt
splashes and tar spots can be easily
removed with white spirit prior to
washing with water.
Whenever a washing agent is used,
the car should be well rinsed down
with clean water afterwards. Begin
here also with the roof of the car.
Then dry carefully with a soft, clean
chamois leather. Use different lea-
thers for the windows and the re-
mainder of the car, otherwise using
the same leather can cause greasy
smears on the windows.
When washing the car, remember to
clean the drainage holes in the doors
and bottom rail.
tended for a synthetic finish. Never
SERVICING
The vehicle does not need polishing
until the surface finish begins to lose
i ts lustre and normal washing is no
l onger sufficient to make it shine
again. Under normal conditions it is
sufficient to polish the vehicle a coup-
l e of times a year on condition that
i t is carefully looked after and tho-
roughly washed as soon as it has
become dirty or dusty.
During the winter and in coastal or
i ndustrial areas it may, however, be
necessary to polish the vehicle more
often in order to avoid attacks from
rust.
Before the vehicle is polished it
should be carefully washed and
dried to avoid scratches on the paint-
work.
Particularly when about to apply
wax great care must be taken to
ensure that the surface is absolutely
clean before application. Be careful
when using solvents, since in many
cases these can damage the surface
finish. Waxing may not be carried
out until at least six months after the
vehicle has been delivered. This is
to ensure that the surface finish has
been given enough opportunity to
harden.
Use only a good quality polish in-
polish or wash the vehicle in direct
sunshine as this can easily result in
a smeary surface.
47
 SERVICING
Touching-up surface finish damage
The touching-up of any extensive damage
to the synthetic finish requires the use of
special equipment and skill, so that the
repairing of any such damage should be
entrusted to a Volvo workshop. Minor
damage caused by flying stones, etc.
and small scratches can, however, be
attended to by the owner himself.
Damage caused by flying stones re-
quires immediate treatment if the danger
from rust is to be avoided. Always make
a habit, therefore, of checking the finish
and carrying out touching-up regularly
for example when washing the car.
Volvo dealers can supply you with suit-
able touching-up paint in tins or spray
bottles. Always make sure that you get
exactly the right colour.
1. Scrape the damaged surface abso-
l utely clean with a pen knife or any-
other sharp object. Carefully remove
any loose flakes of paint and "cham-
fer off" the edges around the dam-
aged surface.
2. In the event of severe damage due
to flying stones, it is necessary to
treat the spot concerned with anti-
rust primer. The primer should cover
completely the scratched and "cham-
fered off" surface.
3. When the anti-rust primer has dried,
genuine Volvo paint is applied. Stir
the paint well or shake the spray
bottle thoroughly before use. Apply
several thin coats of the paint allow-
48
i ng it to dry thoroughly between each
application.
Chromed parts
The chromium-plated and anodized parts
should be washed with clean water as
soon as they become dirty. This is
particularly important if you drive often
on gravel roads which are treated with
chemicals to keep the dust down or in
the winter when salt is used to melt
down the snow. After the car has been
washed, wax or anti-rust preparation
can be applied.
37 Anti-rust treatment
The Volvo 144 is anti-rust treated at
the factory. Underbody sealing com-
pound is applied to the underbody
on those places exposed to damage
from flying stones thrown up by the
wheels, i.e. the wheel arches, the
entire floor plate and the underside
of the sills. Anti-rust fluid is sprayed
on the chassis parts.
I nspection and any touching-up of
the anti-rust protection should be
done at regular intervals and at least
once a year. The enclosed body sec-
tions should also be anti-rust treated
by means of spray application at
l east once a year.
I f any touching-up of the anti-rust
protection is necessary, this' should
be done immediately to prevent
moisture from seeping in under it
and consequently damaging it.
38 Cleaning
Cleaning the upholstery
The upholstery consists of vinyl-
coated fabric which is very resistant
to dirt so that it really rarely requires
any maintenance. If it becomes stai-
ned, the upholstery can easily be
cleaned with a synthetic washing
agent and lukewarm water.
Cleaning the floor mats
The floor mats should be taken out
at least twice a year and cleaned.
Particularly during the winter when
there may be snow and ice on the
mats, they should be often taken out
and dried. The floor under the mats
can be cleaned at the same time. If
the mats have become stained, they
can be cleaned with methylated spirit
which is then rinsed off with water.

SERVICING BEFORE A LONG-
DISTANCE TRIP
If you are thinking of travelling abroad
with your car, or taking a long journey
you should have the car checked at a
Volvo workshop. You will enjoy your
journey better if you know that your car
i s in perfect trim. Irritating incidents can
be avoided as well as expensive and
ti me-absorbing stoppages. Wherever you
go you will have a Volvo workshop within
easy reach to take care of your car, if
i t should be necessary.
However, it is a good idea before mak-
i ng a trip to ensure that, at least on a
minor scale, you have with you a com-
prehensive touring kit. This is partic-
ularly the case if you anticipate widely
varying conditions with regards to
climate, roads and the prevalence of
much dust. Consult your workshop.
Remember when tanking to observe the
existing fuel recommendations.
I f you prefer to look over your vehicle
yourself, the following hints are worth-
while noting:
1. Check the brakes, front wheel align-
ment and steering gear.
2. Check the engine and drive units
with regards to fuel, oil, coolant leak-
age.
3. Examine the tyres carefully. Replace
unreliable tyres.
4. Check that the engine is running per-
fectly and that the fuel consumption
i s normal.
5. Examine the state of charge of the
battery and clean the terminals.
6. Look over the tool equipment and
check the spare wheel.
7. Check that the lighting is functioning
properly.
SERVICING
PROCEDURE IN COLD WEATHER
When cold weather is on the way, it is
ti me to think of the winter servicing of
your car. The first night frost can come
as a very unpleasant surprise unless
preventive precautions have been taken.
Engine cooling system
Genuine Volvo anti-freeze should be used
all the year round. Thus, the cooling
system should always contain water plus
anti-freeze and rust inhibitor.
The coolant keeps its properties for
approximately one year, when it should
be changed. A suitable time for doing
this is during the autumn. This would
ensure against possible damage from
frost during the winter months. When
the coolant is being changed, the cool-
i ng system should be flushed out with
clean water. For further details, see
page 38. If the coolant has to be topped
up during the winter, use only genuine
coolant fluid. Water by itself weakens
both the anti-frost properties as well as
the rust-proofing effectiveness of the
coolant. It is a good idea when topping
up with coolant to have the concentra-
tion checked in order to be certain
that there is always sufficient protection
against damage by frost.
Experience has also shown that extre-
mely weak glycol solutions (10-20 %)
are very unfavourable from the point of
49
 SERVICING
view of rust protection. For this reason,
the quantity of glycol should amount to
at least 50 % of the coolant, that is,
4.3 litres (7.5 Imp. pints=9 US pints).
this l owering the freezing point to
350 C (-31 0 F).
Radiator spirit is not recommended as
an anti-freeze agent as it evaporates at
normal engine temperature.
Engine lubricating system
During the winter multigrade oil SAE
1 0 W-30 or engine oil with a viscosity of
SAE 10 W should be used for the engine
l ubricating system. These oils reach the
l ubricating points in the engine more
easily at low temperature and also fa-
cilitate cold starting. If you drive for the
most part short distances during the
winter, the engine oil should be changed
more often than usual, for example, after
every 2 500 km (1 500 miles). See page
33.
Electrical system
The electrical system in the vehicle is
subjected to greater stresses during the
winter than during the warm summer-
months. The lighting and starter motor
are used more and since the capacity of
the battery is also considerably lower
at low air temperature, the state of
charge must be checked more often
and, if necessary, the battery charged.
I f the battery voltage is excessively low,
50
there is risk of the battery being dam- member this in good time and lubricate
aged by frost. the locks with some suitable anti-freeze
agent. Such agents are now available
i n small handy tubes which can easily be
Brake system placed in a handbag or coat pocket.
During the winter the brakes are sub-
jected to splash and condensation water
which can result in the handbrake freez-
i ng up if left on.
When you park the car, do not apply
the handbrake but engage the bottom
gear or reverse and if possible place
blocks behind the wheels.
Windscreen washer
I n the same way as anti-freeze is added
to the cooling system during the winter
to prevent frost damage, anti-freeze
should also be added to the water con-
tainer for the windscreen washers. This
i s particularly important because the
windscreen during the winter frequently
becomes dirty and is often splashed
with water which rapidly freezes and
thus necessitates the frequent use of
the windscreen washer and wipers. Your
Volvo dealer can supply you with suit-
able anti-freeze for this purpose.
Anti-freeze for door locks
A frozen door lock is one of the most
i rritating things that can happen to a
car-owner. Many valuable minutes early
i n the morning can be wasted warming
up keys and melting ice in locks. Re-

WHEN THE ENGINE STALLS
OR WILL NOT START
This section is intended as an aid if it
should happen that the engine stalls or
i f it is not possible to start it. However,
all types of engine trouble are not inclu-
ded as this would be too comprehensive
and complicated.
Procedures A-F referred to
under "Suitable Remedies"
A. How to "dry out" an engine given
too much fuel
Minor cases: push in the choke fully,
connect the ignition and tramp the acce-
l erator pedal as far as it will go. Run the
starter motor for periods of 5 seconds at
r i ntervals of 30 seconds. If the engine
does not start, follow the procedure de-
scribed below.
Major cases: remove all the sparking
plugs, allow the fuel on the electrodes to
evaporate or dry them. Run the starter
motor for 35 second periods at intervals
of 15 seconds, install the plugs and con-
nect up the ignition cables. Make one or
two attempts at starting for 5 seconds
without choke, at half choke and at full
choke, in that order. If the engine does
not start now, it is best to obtain help;
further attempts at starting only wear out
the battery so that you still must get help
i n the long run.
B. Starting when the carburettor
gives too much fuel
This remedy is suitable if the engine
unexpectedly stops when it is particularly
warm, for example in traffic queues or
on long inclines. Depress the accelerator
pedal as far it will go and keep it there.
Engage the starter motor. As a rule the
starter motor needs to run 5-10 seconds.
Release the accelerator pedal when the
engine starts so that it does not race.
C. How to start the car downhill (only
with the vehicle running forward):
Switch on the engine, pull out the choke
i f required, engage 3rd gear or 4th gear
and let the car roll downhill with the
clutch pedal depressed as far as it will
go. When the car reaches a speed of
1 5-25 km.p.h. (9-17 m.p.h.) and not be-
fore, release the clutch pedal slowly.
During towing: Use the towing line to
which is attached a towing hook. The tow-
i ng vehicle should be driven at an even
speed in 2nd gear. Try starting the towed
car in the same way as when starting on
a downhill grade.
D. Examining sparking plugs
Remove the sparking plug, check its
washer and remove any carbon deposits.
Adjust the electrode gap to 0.7-0.8 mm
(0.028-0.032") using a wire gauge. If the
i nside insulator is heavily coated with
soot or is oiled up, then the plug is pro-
bably too "hard" and should be replaced
when possible. If the insulator has a grey
or brick colour with an even surface, then
the plug is in good condition. A"blistered"
whitish, dry insulator surface means that
the plug is too "soft" and should be re-
placed with a harder type.
I f there are thick layers of carbon and
oil on the plug, the engine should be
FAULT TRACING
checked by a mechanic. "Wet" plugs
point to over-choking, see B.
E. Checking the fuel system
Disconnect the fuel pipe to the carburet-
tor and run the starter motor for several
seconds.
I f there is a rich flow of fuel from the pipe,
it should be re-fitted. Remove the air
cleaner and check that the choke is func-
tioning. If the fault is not there, then it is
best to get a mechanic.
I f no fuel comes from the pipe, clean the
fuel filter. Disconnect the fuel line com-
i ng from the tank at the fuel pump and
blow in the tank opening. If air comes
out of the pipe, then there is too little
petrol in the tank; and if petrol comes
out, the fault will probably lie in the
fuel pump. If nothing at all comes out,
then the fuel pipe must be blocked
try then to blow it clean with compressed
air from the point where the pipe runs
from the fuel filter.
F. Examining the ignition system
Place the blade of a screwdriver with in-
sulated handle against the cylinder cover
next to the sparking plug and move the
handle close in to the upper part of the
plug; i f sparks jump the gap when the
motor is turned around, they should both
be seen and heard.
I f no or poor sparks occur, the fault must
li e in the distributor or in the ignition coil
- in which case a car electrician should
be called or the vehicle towed to a work-
shop. If the sparks are loud and clear,
take out and examine the sparking plugs
according to D.
51
FAULT TRACING SCHEME
The scheme is used in the following way:
Read from left to right. First find out in
the column headed"Circumstances"that
which applies to your particular situation.
Then follow the instructions given in the
columns headed "Main Reason" and page which contains a more detailed
"Probable Fault". Under the heading description of how the fault can be re-
"Suitable Measures" you will find refe- medied.
rences to letters A-F on the previous

52
FAULT TRACING SCHEME

53
 SPECIFICATIONS

54
 SPECIFICATIONS

Fuel system Metric I nches

Carburettor, type Horizontal Horizontal Horizontal Horizontal
designation Zenith-Stromberg SU-HS 6 Zenith-Stromberg SU-HS 6
175CD2S 1 75CD2S

Cooling system
Type Positive pressure Positive pressure
closed system closed system
Thermostat, begins to open at 74-78 ° C (171 1 72 ° F) 171-172 ° F
fully open at 89 ° C (192 ° F) 1 92 ° F

55
 SPECIFICATIONS

FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT

The alignment values apply to an
unladen car but include fuel,
coolant and spare wheel.

56
 SPECIFICATIONS

TOOL KIT
The tool kit contains:
Wheel nut and sparking plug spanner
Tommy bar
Pliers
Adjustable spanner
Philips screwdriver
Plain screwdriver

57
WIRING DIAGRAM
A = Flasher light 32 CP
B = Parking light 5 W
C = Dipped light 40 W
D = Fullbeam light 45W
E = Horn
F = Distributor, firing order 1-3-4-2
G = Ignition coil
H = Battery 12 G COAH
J = Starter motor 1 p.
K = Switch for reversing light
on gearbox
= Control lamp for fullbeam
li ght 1.2W
M = Step relay for fullbeam, dipped
and signalling light
N = Horn ring
0 = Dynamo 12V 30A
P = Relay for back-up light
Q = Fuse box
R = Charging control
S = Brake contact
T = Flasher unit
U = Warning lamp for handbrake 1.2 W
V = Warning lamp for oil pressure
1.2 W
= Warning lamp for charging 1.2 W
Y = Relay for overdrive
Z = Glove compartment light 2 W
A = Control lamp for overdrive 1.2 W
A = Switch for light signal and
direction indicators
0 = Fuel gauge
AA = Voltage regulator
60
BA = Temperature gauge
CA = Oil pressure guard
DA = Switch for overdrive on gearbox
EA = Control lamp flashers 1.2 W
FA = Instrument lighting 2X3 W
GA = Temperature sending unit
HA = Lighting for heater controls
3X1.2W
JA = Heater
KA = Windscreen wipers
LA = Windscreen washer
MA = Solenoid for overdrive
NA = Roof light 10 W
OA = Switch for heater
PA = Switch for windscreen wipers
and washer
QA = Rheostat for instrument lighting
RA = Lighting switch
SA = Ignition switch
TA = Cigarette lighter
UA = Door contact
VA = Switch for handbrake control
XA = Fuel level indicator
YA = Flasher light 32 CP
ZA = Back-up light 15 W
AA = Brake light 25 W
AA = Rear light 5W
0A = Number plate lighting 2 X 5 W
AB = Switch for overdrive
 LUBRICATING CHART
Notes for lubricating chart
Note 1. The wheel bearings are packed
at the factory with a special type of
grease intended to last for the entire
lifetime of the bearings'. The sealed-for-
life bearings do not therefore require a
change of lubricant or additional grease.
This also applies after the bearings
have been reconditioned or changed,
providing that the bearings have been
l ubricated with a high-quality multi-pur-
pose grease.
Note 2. Check that the oil reaches up to
the filler plug.
Note 3. Check that the fluid reaches
up to the level mark.
Note 4. Lubricate the felt wick under
the rotor and fill a few drops of light
engine oil into the lubricating cup.
62
Note 5. Check every 5 000 km (3 000
miles) that the oil reaches up to the
filler plug. The oil should be changed
after every 40 000 km (25000 miles).
See page 34.
Note 6. Check every 5 000 km (3 000
miles) that the oil reaches up to the
filler plug.
Note 7. Fill the cup with light engine
oil. The lubricating cup is opened by
turning the outer cap. Use an ordinary
oil can, not a force-feed can.
Note 8. At every engine oil change
check that the oil level in the carburet-
tor or the centre spindle of the carburet-
tor reaches up to about 6 mm (1/4" )
from the edge of the spindle. If it does
not, top up to this level with oil of the
same type as that used in the engine.
Where the temperature is continuously
below -20 ° C (-4 ° F), the use of
hydraulic oil SAE 5 W/10 W in the
centre spindle is recommended.
Note 9. Change the oil filter every 10 000
km (6 000 miles). See page 36.
Note 10. Check the oil level when tank-
i ng. Change the oil every 5 000 km
(3 000 miles) and in spring and autumn
when changing over to another viscosity.
i f multigrade oil is not used. Where the
operating conditions are unfavourable,
the oil should be changed after every
2 500 km (1 500 miles). See page 33.
 LUBRICATING CHART P 144

Wheel bearings Wheel bearings

Note 1 Note 1

Steering box
Note 2
Dynamo (B 18 A)
Note 7

Brake fluid
container
Note 3
Carburettor
Note 8

Distributor
Note 4

Oil filter
Note 9

Gearbox
Note 5

Engine
Rear axle Note 10
Note 6

Wheel bearings Wheel bearings-

Note 1 Note 1