San-Fernando Central Secondary

Geography SBA 2022

Topic: Coastal Processes
Aim: What are the natural and anthropogenic factors that have influenced Clifton Hill
Beach South Trinidad?

DATA/OBSERVATION SHEET

Date: ________________
Time: Arrival: ______________
Departure: ________________

Group Leader: _________________________

Members of Group:
1. ____________________________
2. ____________________________
3. ____________________________
4._____________________________
5._____________________________
Instructions: For Each of the 3 Sites. Fill out the data needed on this sheet. Take
relevant pictures of the site and your group collecting the data and remember to
sketch the area shown below, pay special attention to the anthropogenic
(manmade) changes to the natural beach or coastline. Also include natural features
like rivers, spits, mangrove/swamps.

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Measuring Wave Height: Method

Equipment: Meter ruler, or long stick, permanent marker

Researchers needed: 3 (1 person holds the ruler or stick the other takes the
reading or marks off the crest/through) the last person records the values on the
data sheet)

1. Two persons should enter the water just beyond the breaker zone with a meter
ruler or ranging rod.
2. Measure and record how far up the pole/rule the wave crests (top of the wave)
go. (cm)
3. Measure and record where the wave trough dip.
4. The distance between the wave crest and trough is the wave height

Location Trial no. Wave Trough Wave Average

crest height Wave
Height
(Add the 3
values for each
location then
divide by 3)
A 1
2
3
B 1
2
3
C 1
2

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 3

Wave Frequency Method:

Equipment: Stopwatch/Phone/Wristwatch
Researchers needed: 2 (One person operates the stopwatch the other counts and
records the numbers).

Count the number of waves breaking on the shore in 1 minute). Record this value.
This should be done a total of three times.
Site Trial no. No of Waves Average
number of
waves
1

A 2

1
B
2

1
C
2

3
Longshore Drift Method

Equipment: Cricket/tennis ball, 2 flags or sticks, long measuring tape, compass

Researchers needed: 3

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 ● Researcher 1: person throws/releases the object in the breaker zone, then
retrieves it after 3 mins.
● Researcher 2 puts a flag or stick on the beach parallel to where the ball is
released in the water, after the 3 mins Researcher 2 puts another flag/stick
on the beach parallel to where the ball has reached/travelled.
● Researcher 3 monitors the time indicating when to start or stop. Everyone
assists with measuring the distance in (m) between the flags and taking the
compass direction in which, the ball travelled.

1. Place/throw an object in the breakwater zone. (Just before the area where
the wave breaks)
2. Mark the starting point with a flag/stick on the beach.
3. Monitor the movement of the object for a period of three minutes. (Walk
along the beach following the object as it moves)
4. Use a flag to mark the location of the object at the end of 3 minutes.
5. Measure and record the distance and direction travelled.

Longshore Drift
Site Trial # Distance Average Direction
/Location travelled/m Distance
Travelled

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 2

1
B

1
C

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Beach Profile/Transect

1. Identify and mark start and end points of transect (at backshore and water’s
edge)
2. Position Pole A at starting point. Wind one end of the nylon cord around the
pole at height of 50cm. Place Pole B 1 meter away from Pole A along the
transect line
3. Wind the second end of the cord around Pole B.
4. Place the level on the nylon cord at pole B and raise and lower the cord till
the line is level (bubble lays exactly in the middle)
5. Measure the height of the cord above the ground at Pole B. Record.
6. Remove Pole A and place it 1 meter away from Pole B along the transect line,
Level the cord and measure height above ground as previously done.
7. Repeat until transect is complete

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NB that the distance between the backshore and waters edge (length of the
transect) will vary for each of the Sites.

Site A Height of Pole Height of Pole Difference in

Meters A B cm
1 50cm
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
Site B Height of Pole A Height of Pole Difference in cm
Meters B
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10.
Site C Height of Pole A Height of Pole Difference in cm
Meters B
1
2
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3
4
5
6
7
8
9
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Remember to complete the following:

o Sketch of the bay

o Observation and record of evidence of human activity

o Describe site

o Wind direction
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