MODULE 4

(Elements and Principles of Design Applied in Sewing)

LEARNING OBJECTIVES
a. identify the elements and principles of design
b. Read specifications in a garment.
c. Assess the appropriateness of design based on clients features
d. Apply the principles of design and color harmonies

what is a design?
DESIGN - this refers to the general arrangements, pattern, .

planning of all details in a garment.

4 elements of design
lines texture
shapes colors
COLOR THEORY
primary color
secondary color
intermediate color
pure color
shades
tints
grayed color
neutral color
PRIMARY COLOR
this is the sources of all colors such as red, yellow, and blue

RED YELLOW BLUE

SECONDARY COLOR
are produced when you mix two equal amount of two primary colors.
 RED BLUE VIOLET

YELLOW RED ORANGE

BLUE YELLOW GREEN

INTERMEDIATE COLOR
are produced when you mix two equal amount of one primary color
and one secondary color.
YELLOW + ORANGE = YELLOW-ORANGE
YELLOW + GREEN = YELLOW GREEN
BLUE + GREEN = BLUE GREEN
BLUE + VIOLET = BLUE VIOLET

PURE COLOR
are also called normal, true and basic colors.
NEUTRAL COLOR
are white, black and gray.
TINTS
when pure color are mixed with white, they are made lighter.

RED WHITE PINK

pink is a tint of RED

SHADES
when pure colors are mixed with black they are made darker
GRAYED COLOR
are also called "soft colors", the more gray you add, the more duller the
color will be.
 QUALITIES OF COLOR
HUE - is the family group name of colours.
VALUE - the lightness or darkness of a colour.
INTENSITY - the brightness or dullness of a colour.
COLOR SCHEME
1. ONE COLOR HARMONY -
It uses one color with different values and intensity.
2. ADJACENT COLOR HARMONY -
they are near each other in the color wheel.
3. COMPLEMENTARY COLOR HARMONY -
these are the colors that are opposite in the color wheel

(UNDERSTANDING THE PRINICIPLES OF DESIGN)

PRINCIPLE OF DESIGN - are concepts and ideas used to arrange
the structural elements of design
1. BALANCE -
a. symmetrical/formal balance
b. asymmetrical/informal balance
c proportion
2. EMPHASIS
3. RHYTHM -
a. repetition
b. radiation
c. gradation
4. HARMONY
1. BALANCE -
according to this principle design should be identified on both sides
a. symmetrical/formal balance
b. asymmetrical/informal balance
c. proportion
A. symmetrical/formal balance - having equal "weight" on both sides.
B. asymmetrical/informal balance - when the decoration and accessories are
different in both sides from the center of the dress.
C. proportion - refers to the relative size and scale of the various elements in a
design.
 2. EMPHASIS-
this is the center of interest. It is the design which receives the most attention
than the other design.
3. RHYTHM-
these are the smooth movement repeated again and again. It leads the eyes
from one part to another.
a. repetition
b. radiation
c. gradation
A. repetition - repetition of lines, colours, shapes or accessories in a dress.
B. radiation - a condition of moving in all directions from the center.
C. gradiation - a gradual increasing or decreasing of sizes, lines, shapes,
colors and directions..
4. HARMONY-
is achieved when all elements and principles of design blends together
 MODULE 5
CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF THE SEWING
MACHINE
Threading the machine
Each part of the threading mechanism on the head of a sewing machine has
a definite purpose in guiding the thread from the spool to the needle. The thread
must pass through the various guides in a given order so that the machine will sew
properly the formed stitches.
A. ORDER OF THREADING IN THE UPPER PART
1. Spool Pin 4. Thread take up lever
2. Upper thread guide 5. Lower thread guide
3. Between metal disc of tension6. Needle
B. THREADING THE LOWER PART OF LOCKSTITCH SEWING MACHINE/ or TREADLE
SEWING MACHINE STEPS:
1. Remove the bobbin case by pulling on the bobbin case latch.
2. Remove the bobbin from the case and wind the thread.
3. Put the bobbin back to the bobbin case and pull the thread through
the little slot at least 4 inches.
4. Be sure that you hear the bobbin case inside the shuttle.
5. Start the mechanism by rolling the balance wheel forward to get the
thread of the bobbin through the needle.
6. Pull the upper and lower thread together by 4 inches.
Common Sewing Machine Troubles
MACHINE
CAUSES REMEDIES
TROUBLES

• insufficient oil • oil the sewing machine

1. Machine runs • loose screw • tighten loose screw
noisily • thread or dust clogged • clean the shuttle race
in the shuttle race before oiling

• too tight belt • change belt if already

• insufficient oil old
2. Machine
• bearings or shuttle race • oil the arm shaft
rotates heavily
is clogged with dust or • clean the shuttle race
thread and bearing, then oil.

• check the threading, change the

• improper threading
texture of thread and attach the
3. Needle thread • tight tension
needle properly to the needle bar (flat
breaks • thread too coarse
side of the needle should face the

needle bar).
 • use correct presser foot,
check if presser foot is
secured and properly
fastened.
• if seam is too heavy
change needle to
correct size
• needle blunt set • check the position of
incorrectly the bobbin case, reset
• presser foot not the shuttle race
properly adjusted assembly
• poor quality thread • change the bent needle
• seam maybe too thick • to avoid needle bending,
or heavy pull the upper and
• bobbin case turns lower threads toward
the rear of the presser
foot after stitching and
cut the threads
• do not force the fabric,
just guide it
• change the size of
needle

• bent needle, dull needle

or wrongly attached
• change the needle or
needle
correct positioning
• unmatched size of
• change needle size and
needle or thread to the
4. Stitches skip thread
texture of fabric
• increase pressure on
• not enough pressure on
the presser foot
the presser foot
• check the threading
• threading maybe
incorrect

• correct threading
• attached the needle
• Improper threading
correctly
• Improperly attached
• change to blunt needle
5. Upper thread needle
• reset the upper tension
breaks • Bent or dull needle
regulator
• Tight upper thread
• use good quality thread
• poor quality thread
and thread size or
texture

• dull needle • use blunt needle

• improper threading
• unbalance tension of the
6. Stitches loop upper and lower threads
• defective thread take up
lever
• check the threading; if
loops appear under the
fabric, check the upper
threading; adjust the
upper tension

• improper winding of the
thread in the bobbin
• bent or dull needle
7. Lower or under • poor quality thread
thread • incorrectly set feed dog
breaks • bobbin does not freely
turn
• too tight bobbin case
spring
• too long stitch length
for the fabric
• tension is too tight
• size of needle and
8. Seams Pucker thread do not match
• too high feed dog
adjustment
• too heavy pressure on
the presser foot
• feed dog not in proper
sewing position • adjust stitch regulator to desired
9. Fabric does not
• stitch regulator not set
move
on zero • too tight • add pressure to presser foot by
pressure on presser foot adjusting the pressure regulator
regulator; if the loops
appear on top of the
fabric, check the lower
threading; the thread
may be inserted in the
tension groove of the
bobbin ; check also the
latch spring of the
bobbin case.
• balance the tension of
both threads
• change the thread take
up lever spring
• winding the thread in
the bobbin uniformly
• change the needle
• use good quality thread
• lower the feed dog if the
fabric is thin; raise the
feed dog if the fabric is
thick
• check if bobbin is
clogged with dirt or
thread
• loosen the adjusting
screw of the bobbin
case or adjusting the
tension of the upper
• adjust stitch regulator
to correct length
• adjust the upper and
lower tension regulator
• use appropriate size of
needle and thread
• adjust the height of the
feed dog depending on
the thickness or
thinness of the fabric
• lessen pressure on the
presser foot
• adjust the feed dog to
proper sewing position
stitch length
screw
 • Change the size of
10. Fabric jams in • Needle may be too big
needle
machine • Throat plate
• Needs round hole plate

Cleaning and Lubricating the Machine

INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Prepare the needed tools and supplies in cleaning the sewing machine.
2. Remove the needle if there is any. This will prevent the cleaner from
pricking fingers during the cleaning process.
Face Plate (presser bar, needle bar, thread take up lever, lifter):
• Unscrew face plate and keep it in the drawer while cleaning.
• Brush dust away then put a little amount of oil while rotating the
balance wheel to inner parts can be accessed.
• Put back the Face Plate in place.
UPPER TENSION (DISC SPRING AND DIAL)
• Remove outer bolt, tension dial, discs and disc spring.
• Lay each part in your front table following its disassembling for easier
assembling.
• Brush dust and wipe with absorbent cloth with oil.
• Assemble by following the laid parts in your table.
LOWER MECHANISM (ROTARY OSCILLATING HOOK)
• Remove bobbin case.
• Fasten sides of oscillating hook.
• Remove dust with lint brush.
• Put a little amount of machine oil on moving parts.
• Return spare parts in place.
OTHER MINOR PARTS
• Remove entangled threads between head and balance wheel.
• Brush accumulated dust in the treadle joints connecting the band
wheel.
• Clean gummy dust on the band wheel.
• After all parts were dusted, lubricate all joints and oil slots with good
quality oil.
• Wipe off all surplus oil then put a piece of absorbent cloth under the
presser foot for dripping oil.

care of the motor

Lubricate the electric motor of your sewing machine according to the manufacturer’s directions. Several newer machines have
electric motors with sealed bearings that never need oiling. Lubricate motors that require oil or grease once a year. One or two
drops per bearing is sufficient; over-oiling may ruin the motor. Check to see that all electric connections to the motor control and
motor are tight. If the cord covering is not in good condition, tape it with good-quality electrical tape or replace the cord. The belt
that connects the motor to the handwheel should have just enough tension to keep it from slipping. Take good care of the rubber
driving ring or wheel on motors that drives machines by friction contact with the handwheel. If this driving ring or wheel has become
flat-sided or unevenly worn, causing excessive vibration, replace it with a new one.
 MODULE
MODULE 6
6
LEARNING OBJECTIVE
a. understand the underlying concept of OHS.
b. differentiate hazards and risks.
c. appreciate the importance of OHS in workplace.
OCCUPATIONAL HEALTH and SAFETY
is an area that concerned in protecting the health, safety
and welfare of all people engage in work.
P - ERSONAL these are the clothing or equipment designed to protect
P - ROTECTIVE your body from hazards.
E - QUIPMENT
sample personal protective equipment
1. protective clothing 6. ear muff/plug
2. helmet 7. safety harness
3. safety shoes 8. face mask
4. safety hand gloves 9. chemical suit
5. googles 10. welding shield

hazard - the situation that poses a level of threat to life, health, property
and environment; the sources of damages.
RISK- a level, chance or probability that you will be in danger because of
hazard.
EXAMPLE OF HAZARD IN THE WORKPLACE

WORKPLACE OF EXAMPLE OF
HARM CAUSED
HAZARD HAZARD

THING KNIFE CUT

SUBSTANCE BENZENE LEUKEMIA

MATERIAL ASBESTOS MESOTHELIOMA

ENERGY ELECTRICITY SHOCKS, CIRCUIT

CONDITION WET FLOOR SLIPS, FALL

PROCESS WELDING BURN, FLAME

 TYPES OF HAZARD
1. biological hazard 4. physical hazard
2. chemical hazard 5. ergonomic hazard
3. mechanical hazard 6. psychological hazard

1. biological hazard
comes from working with animals, people or infectious materials.
may are associated with food toxins including viruses, fungi, parasites
and others.
2. chemical hazard
it is present when a worker is expose to any chemical preparation. iti is
considered a hazard if it cause a harm or danger to humans, property or
environment.
3. mechanical hazard
is any hazard involving machine or process. motor vehicles, aircraft and
airbags are mechanical hazards.
4. physical hazard
is a naturally occurring process that has the potential to create loss or
damage. but are not limited to natural calamities. it is both human and
natural elements.
5. ergonomic hazard
is a physical factor within the environment that harms the
musculoskeletal system. this includes uncomfortable workstation height,
poor body positioning, poor lightning.
6. psychological hazard
are those that causing stress to a worker. this affect not only the
psychological aspect of a human but the general well being. this is
caused by heavy workloads, shift-work, noise, fear of job-loss, conflict
with the employer and co-workers.

SEWING SAFETY RULES

1. do not use machine unless you have the knowledge and training in its
operation.
2. one person only is to operate the sewing machine
3. do not touch sewing machine while another person is sewing
4. keep safe all sharp tools and equipment
5. make sure floors are clean
6. avoid drinking and eating in your sewing area
7. electrical cords and plugs must be put away under tables
8. ensure your working tables are at good level
9. maintain good lighting and proper ventilation in the sewing room
10. keep the jewelry, accessories to a minimum.
11. maintain proper posture while sewing
12. get enough rest to avoid stress
13. wear proper PPEs to protect you from biological hazard