CORE-SET TERRAIN

PAINTING GUIDE BY SORASTRO

Hello! In this guide I’ll be painting the core-set terrain from STAR WARS: Shatterpoint!

After assembling the terrain (and I didn’t have any instrutions at the
time, so ignore any assembly errors!) I primed the whole lot in black
with a rattle-can primer. I also left the supporting legs for the gantries
off for now:

You can see for pieces like the ladders and the crates, I stuck them
down with white tack, and rotated them during priming to ensure that
I hit all sides with the primer:
I then used some SP Lark Dark Grey to spray the whole lot from a roughly zenithal direction, leaving the recesses etc black.
(You could use whatever dark-mid shade of grey you like to do this):

For the grates/gantries I wanted quite an irregular/patchy spray pattern:

I then went brighter still by mixing in a roughly equal amount of ILM Armour Grey:
(Again, any mid-grey tone would be OK for this; the ILM Armour Grey is pretty
close to something like Scalecolor’s Graphite for example.)
We can create some quite subtle gra- I find creating a pleasing set of values and gradations early on like this is always
dients here on the panel work. useful, even if we later decide to go over things with a different colour.

You could actually leave most of the

buildings grey at this point if you’re Because I want to colour the panels in a tan tone, I’m now taking some time to
after a more “Imperial” look, and just mask off all of the main parts I want to remain grey:
move onto painting the details...
 You could of course choose to mask off different/additional areas from those that I chose...

This was quite laborious to do but will save time making corrections etc later on,
and will help give a nice crisp look, so I think it’s worth the effort! I’m now going to spray on the shadow
tone for the panels using Cam. Medium
I also used some white tack (poster putty) to cover up some of the smaller de- Brown from the Vallejo Model Air line:
tails:

(Here you can see more of the details

which I covered up with white tack:)
It’s worth mentioning that without the I’m looking for a colour that’s roughly
I’m now mixing in my highlight tone,
grey we applied earlier, this brown half way between the shadow and full
and I’m using UK Light Stone for that:
would look a fair bit darker.. highlight tone:

I’m now applything this from a zenithal I usually like to make a couple of passes with the airbrush to build the tone up
direction of course: gently, and avoid over-spraying:

Here we can once again achieve some I’m now using pure UK Light Stone to
quite subtle but attractive gradations: gently brighten the lightest points:
 Here you can see that I generally favour
placing the lighter end of each gradient
towards the lower half of vertical, flat
panels like this:

We now get to enjoy the pay-off from the effort we put in to masking things off earlier as we remove the tape!

However, I’ve also decided to add some coloured strips to some of the panels, so I’m also masking off certain areas where
I want to add a splash of colour...
 Once I’ve masked off my desired area, I’m applying some neat Caspian Blue with
a sponge to create a chipped paint effect:

I also used a brush to get right into the

And now we peel the tape off:
corners:

I’m doing to same elsewhere...

 I’m now painting some of the grey de-
tails that I felt were too small/fiddly to
mask off, such as these cables:

I just mixed a grey scale on the wet

palette for these details, using the Sca-
lecolor Artist paints...

I’m also now beginning to highlight the

rest of the grey areas - going nice and
bright for the edges:
I then decided to have some fun push- And then using a damp brush to dilute
ing some thinned pale greys around to Here you can see me dabbing some off the paint on the model itself - pushing
create some random variations in the white onto this trim: things around a bit as I go creating a
metalwork: stained kind of look:

To create more colour interest I also

glazed on some patches of Orange
Leather:

And to compliment the orange tones, The Scalecolor Artist paints are espe-
here I’m using Prussian Blue (once cially good for this kind of thing bec-
again - heavily thinned): uase they thin down so beautifully:
 For these doors I decided to throw on a Nuln Oil/Agrax Earthshade mix, which I
then wiped down with my finger:

You don’t have to use these exact col-

For the panelled areas I grabbed the
I also tried the Tamiya Black Panel Lin- ours of course; I just wanted to play
following tones to add some shading
er here on this vent: with some orange, red, and purple-ish
and weathering with:
tones..

I’m being quite light here as it’s easy to

I began by placing some thinned rusty I then used a damp brush to smooth/
build the tone up but would be hard to
tones up into some of the recesses: feather it out...
walk things back if I go in too heavy..
You can see I’m creating kind of a I also began adding some bits of streaky weathering, freely mixing in some of the
grimy “vignette”: darker tones as I go:

Her I’m drawing the brush towards to

shadowed, top part of the panel:

I’m now freely switching between highlights, and weathering. And for these met-
al doors I went up to pure Vanilla White (or Ivory) for the brightest glints:
I also mixed some Vanilla White (Sca-
lecolor Artist) into the UK Light Stone
to add some edge highlights to the tan
areas:

I’m using the same colours and techniques for the smaller pieces too...
Here for these slats, I once again ap-
plied some Nuln/Agrax Shade, then
wiped it down:

I also chose to do some dry brush-

ing to speed things along; this is once
again just a grey scale, but with some
Prussian Blue mixed in:
Let’s not forget the crates!
 I also gave these legs the “Shade &
Wipe” treatment using a Drakenhof
Nightshade and Nuln Oil mix:

Here you can see how I’ve contrast- For some of these buttons I just pro-
ed some cool greys against the rusty vided a white undercoat followed with
tones on this door: some Fluorecent Red on top:

I also decided to add some bits of chip-

And Vallejo’s Blue Green looks great for
ping with both brush and sponge (any
these little screens:
dark grey/off-black would be fine here):
 Some off-white can also be used on
top to show exposed metal(?):

And after disassembling and

re-assembling the towers
correctly, the terrain is com-
plete!

I’ve not glued any of the lad-

ders on yet, but I might do..
 PAINT LIST:

SP Lark Dark Grey (AX)

ILM Armour Grey (SX)
Cam. Medium Brown (VMA)
UK Light Stone (VMA)
Caspian Blue (SC)
Orange Leather (SC)
Art Black (SCA)
Art White (SCA)
Vanilla White (SCA)
Prussian Blue (SCA)
Rust (AX)
Roof Brown (AX)
Weathered Black (AX)
Nuln Oil (GW)
Aggrax Earthshade (GW)
Drakenhof Nightshade (GW)
Fluorescent Red (VMA)
Blue Green (VMC)

SC = Scalecolor, SCA = Scalecolor Artist, GW = Games Workshop, AX = Archive-X, VMA = Vallejo Model Air, VMC = Vallejo Model Color