Technology and Livelihood Education

(Dressmaking/Tailoring) 9
(
D
Quarter
4
r Dressmaking
e
s
s
Quarter
m 4
a Module1
Self-Learning
k
Cutting
i Fabric
n
g
/
T
a
il
o
ri
n
g
)
 LESSON

Techniques in Cutting Final Patterns

In cutting the final pattern, there are always standard

procedures to be followed to avoid mistakes in cutting the pattern
which would affect the style of the garment.
Before cutting it out, sort out all the pattern pieces that are
required for the item you are making. Check them to see if any have
special cutting instructions. If there are no more alterations to be
made, just trim patterns to your size.
Cut pattern pieces just along the cutting lines. Use sharp
shears and avoid cutting the inside part of the cutting lines otherwise
the actual measurements will be affected.
1. Identify which size to be used for different areas of your
body. Use a colored pen and trace the cutting lines.
2. Use a sharp pair of scissors in cutting the pattern. If you
slip and make a cut where you shouldn’t have, simply tape
it back into place. The important thing is that the shape is
retained and that you can still read the markings. Cut
carefully along the cutting lines.
3. Check for seam allowances. Notice the grain lines.

A. Cutting Front Bodice Final Pattern

\

LESSON
Laying Out Pattern Pieces
Tips to Lay out Pattern Pieces for Successful Sewing

1. Pressing

Pressing is essential, so you should press the pattern pieces prior

to laying on fabric. Pattern pieces commonly have creases, as a
result of being folded in an envelope. Press the creases out safely
by using an iron in the low setting mode. In this way, damaging
pattern pieces will be avoided.
2. Follow the Lay out Guide

Different patterns come with a layout guide. It should be followed.

In following the layout guide, the right layout for the fabric should
also be chosen. The layout depends on the fabric width and
whether all the pieces need to be laid the same way.

3. Grain lines

Grain line is one of the most essential symbols on pattern piece. It

tells what direction the pattern piece should place on the fabric.
The grain line and selvage are always parallel to each other. In
case pattern piece should be laid out crosswise, lengthwise or on
the bias, the grain line will tell this.

Pay great attention when cutting garment because if pieces aren’t

straight, they can’t be fixed once they are cut. Any alterations
cannot be performed after cutting. To ensure straight lay out of
pattern pieces on fabric takes some extra time prior to cutting, it
is worth doing.

Ways to ensure pattern piece is straight:

• Pattern pieces are not cut on the fold

In this case, when the grain line is parallel to the fabric’s selvage,
pattern piece is straight. Measure the distance from the grain line
of the pattern piece to the selvage of the fabric. Use a ruler or a
tape measure. Regardless of which grain line end to choose first,
pin its end and measure its distance from the fabric’s selvage.

• Selvage is wavy

In this case, find the straightest part. Line up selvage with the
straight edge of cutting board or table and measure to its edge.
Measure the distance at the unpinned end of the grain line. If
measurement is different, move the pattern piece until the
distance from the selvage is the same at both ends of the grain
line.

• Pattern piece is straight

When pattern piece is straight, go on and pin the rest of the piece
in its place. The pieces that are closest to the selvage are straight
and finished pinning in place, use its grain lines to measure for
neighboring pieces.
4. Cutting

To ensure that pattern pieces stay in place while cutting it, place
one hand on top of pattern piece while cutting the fabric. It is
more essential to hold pattern piece in place with hand while
cutting with pattern weights instead of pins. This is to avoid
pattern pieces from shifting while cut. Pay attention because if
pattern piece will be lifting a little or don’t hold in place while
cutting, it may cause slight movement and it will affect the sewing
or fit of the piece.
Procedure in Laying out Pattern Pieces for Children’s Wear
Note:
Lay out the pattern pieces on the fabric assuring that the center fold
symbol is placed on the folded part of the fabric.

Pin the pattern Tips:

• The pointed end of pin should be placed under the fabric.
• Pins should be outside direction inside the stitching line.
• Use minimal number of pins, just place on the corners of the pattern.

LESSON

Cutting Fabric

Cutting fabric accurately is just as important to getting a

professionally finished project as the actual sewing is. With a little
extra care taken to learn how to cut fabric, you will be on your
way to the next step – sewing.
Precision is the key to making a beautiful, finished item –
inaccurate cutting means an inaccurate finish, it just won’t look
sharp and pristine.
Check if seam allowances are included in the pattern. Pin
pattern pieces to the fabric before you start cutting. This way you
will make sure you are using the minimal wastage of fabric.
Keep the fabric flat on the table so that it will not slip or stretch out
of shape. Place your left hand on the pattern very close to the place
where you are going to cut. This will keep the fabric in place. Make
long even cuts by opening the shears wide every time you cut. Keep
the cutting blade resting on the table.
When you cut, cut very close to the edge of the pattern or on
the cutting line. Use the point of the shears when cutting corners or
short places. Cut notches outward instead of inward. Deep inward
notches weaken the seams.

The actual cutting fabric takes far less time than all the
pinning and preparation. Carefully cut around the pattern pieces
with sharp scissors to get a nice accurate clean edge. Try to follow
the pattern piece as closely as possible.
Sometimes you may want to rough cut around the pieces first
and then goes back and cut properly. This allows you to turn the
pieces for the best direction to cut. When you have several pieces
laid out on your table, it can initially be a little awkward until they
are all separated.

Procedures in cutting fabric for children’s wear as follows:

 LESSON
Transferring Pattern Markings to the Fabric

Transferring your pattern markings onto the fabric itself is an

important step that will set you up to sew more easily in later stages of
your garment construction. Since we are about to begin the children’s
wear construction, I thought it would be good to cover this before we
start!

Rules in Marking

Rule #1: If you don’t have time to mark, you don’t have time to cut!
Transfer all pattern markings IMMEDIATELY after cutting pattern
pieces out!

Rule #2: ALWAYS test whatever method you choose on a piece of scrap
project fabric – make sure it can be easily removed.

Rule #3: To transfer the pattern markings, leave the pattern pinned to
the fabric.

Rule #4: With the exception of pockets and buttonholes, ALWAYS make
the markings on the wrong side (WS) of the fabric.

Rule #4: Whichever marking tool to choose, mark as lightly as you can
on the WS. No dark, heavy marks, please.

Rule #5: Aim to choose a marking tool color that's close to your fabric
color (but still visible enough for you to see).

Rule #6: Use tailor’s chalk and ruler. Hold ruler along the line to be
marked so that you can make a straight line with firm and clear
strokes.

Rule #7: If carbon paper is to be used, fold it in half, so it's long enough
to mark the intended area. Place the marking side of the paper on the
wrong side of the fabric. (If the wrong sides of the fabric are inside, slide
the transfer paper inside the fabric. If the wrong sides of the fabric are
outside, place the fabric inside the transfer paper.)

Rule #8: Do NOT press over marks. Heat can set some dyes
PERMANENTLY!
A good marking tool has three qualities:
• It marks precisely!
• It is easily removed!
• It does not leave marks of any kind behind!