13th - Edition-Chapter - 29 Light Cured Gels

29
Light Cured Gels

986 part 3 | hair care
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learning
objectives
After completing this chapter, you will be able to:
lO 1
Describe the chemistry and main ingredients of light
cured gels.
lO 2
Explain when you would use a one-color or two-color
method for applying UV or LED gels.
lO 3
Outline List the different types of light cured gels used in
current systems.
why study LIGHT
CURED GELS? 988
lO 4
Comprehend the Chemistry Identify the supplies needed for light cured
of Light Cured Gels 988
gel application.
Describe Light
Cured Gels 990 lO 5
Determine when to use light cured gels on your client.
Name the Supplies Required
for Light Cured Gels 993
lO 6
When to Use Light List the four guidelines that will assist you in choosing
Cured Gels 995
the proper light cured gel technology for your client.
Choose the Proper Light
Cured Gel Technology 996 lO 7
Distinguish the Difference Discuss the differences between light cured lamps
Between Light Cured Bulbs and bulbs.
and Lamps 997
Specify the Advantages of

lO 8
Light Cured Gel Polish 999 Identify the advantages of using light cured gel polish.
Relate Nail Art to Light lO 9

Cured Gels 1000
Describe how to maintain light cured gel nail
Perform Light Cured enhancements.
Gel Maintenance and
Removal 1000
lO 10
Perform Procedures 1002 Explain how to correctly remove hard light cured gels.
lO 11
Identify the correct way to remove soft light
cured gels.
Publisher’s note: The term light cured gels is used in this chapter to
encompass UV and LED gels.
987
T
his chapter introduces light cured gel, also known as UV and LED
gel, a type of nail enhancement product that hardens when exposed
to a UV and LED light source. Light cured gel is an increasingly
popular method for nail enhancement services.
why study
LIGHT CURED GELS?

Cosmetologists should study and have a thorough understanding
of light cured gels because:
Clients may be interested in receiving light cured gel services.
An understanding of the chemistry of light cured gel products will
allow you to choose the best system and products to use in your
salon.
An understanding of how light cured gel nails are made, applied, and
cured will allow you to create a safe and efficient salon service.
Clients often become loyal and steadfast when they receive excellent
light cured gel nail services, maintenance, and removal.
After reading the next few sections, you will be able to:
lO 1 Describe the chemistry and main ingredients of light cured gels.
Comprehend the
Chemistry of Light
Cured Gels
Nail enhancements based on light curing are not traditionally thought of
as being methacrylates; however, they are very similar. Like wrap resins,
adhesives, monomer liquid, and polymer powder nail enhancements, light
cured gel enhancements rely on ingredients from the monomer liquid and
polymer powder chemical family. Their ingredients are part of a
subcategory of this family called acrylates. Wrap resins are called
cyanoacrylates, and monomer liquid and polymer powder nail
enhancements are from the same category called methacrylates.
Although most light cured gels are made from acrylates, new light
cured gel technologies have been developed that use methacrylates. Like
wraps and monomer liquid and polymer powder nail enhancements, light
cured gels can also contain monomer liquids, but they rely mostly on a
related form called an oligomer. The term mono means one, and poly
means many. Oligo means few. An oligomer (uh-LIG-uh-mer) is a short
chain of monomer liquids that is often thick, sticky, and gel-like and that
988 part 5 | NAIL CARE

is not long enough to be considered a polymer. These chains are often
referred to as a prepolymer. Nail enhancement monomer liquids are
liquids, while polymers are solids. Oligomers are between solid and liquid.
Traditionally, light cured gels rely on a special type of acrylate called
© Antonio Gravante/Shutterstock.com
a urethane acrylate, while newer light cured gel systems use urethane
methacrylates by themselves or in combination with urethane acrylates.
Urethane acrylate (YUR-ah-thane AK-ri-layt) and urethane methacrylate
(YUR-ah-thane meth-AK-ri-layt) are the main ingredients used alone
or in combination with urethane acrylates to create light cured gel
nail enhancements. The term urethane refers to the type of starting
material that is used to create the most common light cured gel resins.
The chemical family of urethanes is known for high abrasion resistance
and durability.
figure 29-1
Light cured gel resins react when exposed to the UV or LED light Position the client’s hand in the UV
source that is recommended for the gel. A chemical called a photoinitiator lamp for the required cure time.
(FOH-toh-in-ish-ee-AY-tohr) initiates the polymerization reaction. The key
thing to remember here is that it takes the combination of the resin,
photoinitiator, and the proper curing bulb to cause the gel to cure
completely. Light cured gel systems employ a single component resin
compound that is cured to a solid material when exposed to a UV or LED
light source. Light cured gels typically do not use a powder that is
incorporated into the gel resin. A few light cured gels on the market
incorporate a powder that is sprinkled into the gel, but the rest of the did you know?
chapter will refer to gels as being the more common single-component type. Ultraviolet light is really not light
The difference between light cured gels is the type of photoinitiator at all. UV light is really wavelengths of
electromagnetic radiation that are just
used in the formula and the measure of light that photoinitiator responds
beyond the visible spectrum of light. In
to. For example, LED gels cure when they are exposed to a certain this chapter UV light and UV radiation
measure of light found in LED lamps. When the LED gel is directly are the same thing.
exposed to this light, it causes the oligomers to start to cure immediately.
When exposed for the recommended amount of time, they will cure
completely solid.
The photoinitiator found in UV gels cause the gel to cure when
directly exposed to UV radiation at that certain measure found in UV
lamps (figure 29-1). All gels will cure if exposed to natural and florescent
or any type of light that is full spectrum, as these contain some measure of
the light it takes to cure these gels. The process will just happen slower figure 29-2
because they are not getting direct, intense exposure. That is why it is Technician applying black gel using
a natural hair brush to create a
recommended to always keep your containers closed and gel brushes permanent french look to the gel nail
covered, so they do not slowly cure and harden while exposed to light. enhancements.
Remember that some gels react to UV, some to LED, and some to
both. Many still only respond to UV, so be sure to review the
manufacturer’s recommendations for the type of lamp you will need for
the specific product you are using.
Light cured gels can be easy to apply, file, and maintain, and create
© White78/Shutterstock.com
beautiful, long-lasting nail enhancements (figure 29-2). They also have the
advantage of having very little or no odor. Although they typically are not
as hard as monomer liquid and polymer powder nail enhancements, they
are more flexible.
The light cured gel application process differs from other types of nail
enhancements. After the nail plate is properly prepared, each layer of
product applied to the natural nail, nail tip, or form requires exposure to a
UV or LED light source to cure, which means to harden. The UV or
LED radiation required for curing comes from a special bulb designed to
emit the proper type and intensity of UV or LED radiation.
© hightowernrw/Shutterstock.com
lO 2 Explain when you would use a one-color or two-

color method for applying UV or LED gels.
lO 3 List the different types of light cured gels used in

figure 29-3 current systems.
A cosmetologist in nitrile gloves
applies clear gel overlay on natural
colored nail tip.
Describe Light
Cured Gels
There are many types of light cured gels. Choosing a favorite and relied-
upon gel is as important as choosing the monomer liquid and polymer
powder system that you prefer. Some cosmetologists favor a gel that is
thick and will not level by itself. Other cosmetologists like to use gels that
quickly self-level. It is up to you to find the gel that you prefer to use and
to learn how to use it well.
The different light cured gels can be described as thin-viscosity gels,
medium-viscosity gels, thick-viscosity gels, and building or sculpting gels.
Remember that viscosity (vis-KAHS-ut-tee) is the measurement of the
thickness or thinness of a liquid and that viscosity affects how the fluid
flows. Manufacturers have a market name for gels that they make, but
most light cured gels fall under these general categories:
• The one-color method is the method whereby one color of UV or
LED gel is applied over the entire surface of the nail. This method is
used for clients who wish to wear colored polish or UV or LED gel
polish over the enhancement (figure 29-3).
• The two-color method is a method whereby two colors of resin are
did you know?
used to overlay the nail; usually pink and white are used, allowing for
It is very common for gel
manufacturers to have many colored
a French or American manicure finish in which lacquer is not needed.
gels for the two-color method. These There are many processes for performing a two-color method over tips
pigmented gels can vary in opacity or natural nails. The process varies from one gel manufacturer to
and viscosity. You should follow the another and can even vary within one manufacturer’s product lines.
manufacturer’s recommendations for Consult with the UV or LED gel manufacturer about the product you
applying the pigmented gel in a two- intend to use before you perform a two-color method.
color method. Usually, the more opaque
gels have thinner viscosities and are
applied after the second coat of building 29-1 One-Color Method UV or LED Gel on Tips or Natural Nails
Finishing With UV or LED Gel Polish See page 1002
gel. The less-opaque pigmented gels are
often thicker in viscosity and are applied
before the first coat of building gel. 29-2 Two-Color Method UV or LED Gel on Tips or Natural Nails
See page 1006

Types of Light Cured Gels caution
Bonding gels are used to increase adhesion to the natural nail plate, similar Be careful to not get UV or LED gel
products on the skin during application or
to a monomer liquid and polymer powder primer. Bonding gels will vary
while you are removing the inhibition layer.
in consistency and chemical components. The increased adhesion decreases Continued over exposure of gel products
the tendency for enhancements to separate from the natural nail. Some on the skin can cause a client to become
bonding gels contain certain chemicals that smell like a monomer liquid sensitive to the product and could
and polymer powder primer, while other bonding gels do not have a eventually cause an allergic reaction.
strong odor. Light cured gel manufacturers are constantly developing new
technology in the formulation of bonding gels. These technologies could
make the use of odiferous chemicals obsolete. Some light cured gel
manufacturers use air-dry bonding systems. Just because the bonding
product may not be cured in a UV or LED lamp does not make it any less
effective than a bonding system that is cured in a UV or LED lamp.
When applying primer or bonding gel, insert the brush into the nail
primer or bonding gel, wipe off any excess from the brush, and using a
slightly damp brush, ensure that the nail plate is completely covered per
the manufacturer’s recommendations. Avoid using too much product to
prevent running into the skin, which can increase the risks of developing
skin irritation or sensitivity to the enhancement system.
Building gels include any thick-viscosity resin that allows the
cosmetologist to build an arch and curve into the fingernail. When
applying this gel, do not pat the gel as you would monomer liquid and
polymer powder material; instead, gently brush or float the gel material
onto the fingernail. Avoid introducing air into the gel, as this will reduce
the strength of the cured gel and may lead to bubbles and cracking.
Always cure each layer of the light cured gel for the time required by
the manufacturer’s instructions. Curing for too little time can result in
service breakdown, skin irritation, and/or skin sensitivity. Improper
positioning of the hands inside the bulb also can cause improper curing.
Light cured building gels can be used with self-leveling gels, and if
done correctly, this combination can reduce the amount of filing and
shaping required to contour the enhancement later in the service. Some
light cured building gels have fiberglass strands compounded into the gel
during the manufacturing process. These gels typically have hardness and
durability properties that closely resemble monomer liquid and polymer
powder systems. This type of gel can be very helpful when repairing a
break or crack in a client’s enhancement.
Self-leveling gels are thinner in consistency than building gels,
allowing them to settle and level during application. These gels are used to
enhance the thickness of the overlay while providing a smoother surface.
Cosmetologists who are experienced in light cured gel application often
will choose to apply a building gel first, and then apply a self-leveling
gel to create the enhancement, which will help to reduce filing and
contouring.
did you know?
Pigmented gels can be building gels or self-leveling gels that include
Light cured gel polishes are also
color pigment. Pigmented building gels can be used earlier in the service
referred to in the industry as no-chip
to create art or a traditional French manicure look by using a white and manicures, soak-off gel color, soft gels,
pink pigmented gel. To complete this look, you would use the two-color and even power polish. Despite the
method, which is similar to a two-color monomer liquid and polymer assorted names, they are all referring to
powder process. Self-leveling pigmented gels can also be used near the end UV and LED gel polish.
C hapter 29 | Li ght Cu red Gels 991

of the application, after filing. Because self-leveling pigmented gels are
applied much more thinly, a French manicure look is easily achieved over
the filed enhancement, before applying a finishing gel.
© hightowernrw/Shutterstock.com
Gel polish is a very thin-viscosity gel that is usually pigmented and
packaged in a pot or a polish bottle; it is used as an alternative to
traditional nail lacquers (figure 29-4). Light cured gel polishes do not dry
the same way as nail lacquers; they cure in a UV or LED lamp. When gel
polish is finished curing, a gloss gel can be applied over it to create a high,
lustrous shine. Since the products are cured, the end result appears
lacquered but does not have any solvent odor and is immediately dry to
the touch. Another advantage of light cured gel polishes is that the color
figure 29-4
stays without chipping three to four times longer than traditional nail
Gel polish comes in a variety of colors.
In this example, the technician wears lacquers. Light cured gel polish may be used on natural nails or nail
nitrile gloves while applying gel polish enhancements.
from a pot. Light cured gels are available in a wide array of colors. They are
available in cream and frosted colors, and some even include glitter! These
gels can be mixed together to create a few hundred more colors. Light
cured gels provide the cosmetologist and client with a wide variety of
colors and options for expressing their personality and creativity.
Glossing gel, also known as sealing gel, finishing gel, or shine gel, is
used over the finished and filed gel application to create a high shine, in
much the same way a top coat would be applied over colored nail polish.
Light cured gloss gels do not require buffing and can also be used over a
A C Ti v i t y monomer liquid and polymer powder enhancement. There are two types
Acquire samples of gels that are of light cured gloss gels: traditional gloss gels that cure with a sticky
on the market by calling a few popular inhibition layer that requires cleaning and tack-free gloss gels that cure to a
companies. When you receive the gels, high shine without the inhibition layer.
place a small amount of gel on a plastic
An inhibition layer is a tacky surface left on the nail after a UV or
tip that you have adhered to a wooden
stick. Study the gel as it moves over
LED gel has cured. Choose the gloss gel that is best for you. Traditional
the tip. Try applying the gel in a different light cured gloss gels do not discolor after prolonged exposure to UV
way (such as brushing a thin layer, then radiation, while tack-free gloss gels often discolor. Many light cured gel
applying a ball of gel in the stress area). manufacturers are developing tack-free gloss gels that do not discolor upon
Then observe the gel again. Repeat exposure to UV radiation. These advancements may make traditional light
this procedure with all of the samples. cured gloss gels obsolete; but for now, traditional light cured gloss gels still
The more you know about how the gels hold the market on non-yellowing performance.
work and behave, the easier it will be for
After you have determined how each type of gel behaves on the
you to apply the gel on your client.
fingernail, learn how to use the pigmented pink and white gels in the same
A C Ti v i t y
We have discussed how gels require a UV or LED light source to cure properly.
Gels will not cure if the light cannot penetrate through the gel. If the gel is pigmented,
then the pigment can block the transmission of the UV and LED light into the gel and
decrease its curing potential.
Place some gel on a disposable form, and spread it using a gel brush. Apply the gel
so that you are able to see through it onto the surface of the form. Cure the gel in your
UV and LED bulb for the recommended period of time. Clean the surface of the gel to
remove the sticky residue—the inhibition layer. Peel the gel from the form and examine
the side of the gel that was against the form. If there is a layer of uncured gel, then the
gel was applied too thickly. Reapply the gel application thinly and repeat the curing and
examination process until you get a full cure.

fashion. Similar to clear gels, pink gels and white gels can be formulated in
a variety of viscosities (the measurement of the extent of a liquid to flow),
colors, and degrees of opacity. Opacity (oh-PAY-sit-ee) is the amount of
colored pigment concentration in a gel, making it more or less difficult to
see through. If a light cured gel has a high degree of opacity, the gel will
be better able to camouflage the nail bed. If a gel has a low degree of
opacity, the nail will more clearly show through. There are many different
gels on the market, and each of these gels can be combined to give any
appearance that you and your client desire.
lO 4 Identify the supplies needed for light cured gel application.
Name the Supplies

Required for Light
Cured Gels
Just as every type of nail enhancement service requires specific tools,
implements, equipment, and supplies, so do light cured gel enhancements.
Here is a list of those requirements (figure 29-5). In addition to the
supplies in your basic manicuring setup, you will need:
• Light curing gel lamp. Choose a light curing gel lamp designed to
produce the correct amount of UV or LED light needed to properly
cure the gel nail enhancement products you use.
• Application Brush. Choose brushes with small, flat (or oval) bristles
to hold and spread the light cured gels. Ensure gel brushes have caps
to protect them from collecting dust and debris as well as shield them
h figure 29-5
Supplies needed for a UV gel service
(left to right): a) UV lamp; b) cleanser;
j c) gel primer; d) gel brush; e) abrasive;
c f) nail tips; g) lint-free nail wipes;
i h) clear self-leveling gel; i) pink building
gel; j) red gel polish; k) nail forms.
d e g
f

from light. Exposure to light can cause the gel to cure in the brush,
and then the brush is no longer useable.
• Gel primer or bonding gel. Primers and bonding gels are designed
specifically to improve adhesion of UV and LED gels to the natural
nail plate. Use gel primers as instructed by the manufacturer of the
product that you are using.
• Light cured gel. This should include pigmented gel(s) for a one-color
or two-color service. This will also include a gel that creates a gloss,
depending upon the gel system that you choose.
• Nail forms. Depending on the manufacturer recommendation, clear
plastic forms are sometimes used to allow UV and LED radiation to
penetrate from the underside for more complete curing of the free
edge. With some brands, a traditional single-use form is acceptable. If
using a reusable or multiuse form, remember to clean and disinfect in
between uses.
• Nail tips. It is important when using nail tips with UV or LED gel to
size the tip so that the curve of the tip matches the curve of the nail.
If the curves do not match and the tip is spread too flat, then the tip
could crack lengthwise down the center. It’s also important to ensure
the width of the tip measures from one side of the natural nail to the
other. If the tip is measured too small it will crack on the side.
• Nail adhesive. There are many types of nail adhesives for securing
preformed nail tips to natural nails. Select a type and size best suited
for your work.
• Nail dehydrator. This product removes surface moisture and tiny
amounts of oil left on the natural nail plate (both of which can block
adhesion) and help prevent lifting of the nail enhancements.
• Abrasive files and buffers. Select a medium to fine abrasive buffer
(180-240 grit) for natural nail preparation. Choose a medium to
fine abrasive file (180- to 240-grit) for smoothing the surface.
When contouring the surface, file carefully near the sidewalls and
eponychium to avoid injuring the client’s skin. Check the free edge
thickness and even out imperfections with gentle strokes with
the abrasive.
Make certain that you avoid excessive filing of the gel on the sidewalls
of the enhancements. Excessive filing may lead to the enhancement being
too thin, which can result in cracking at the sidewalls of the enhancement.
Remember that nail enhancements must have a slightly rough surface in
order for the finishing or glossing gels to adhere, so buffing after surface
filing is not necessary. Light cured gel manufacturers may have other
recommendations for abrasives; please consult the manufacturer’s
guidelines for more information on the specific system you are using.
• A cleansing solution. Cleansing solutions usually contain
isopropanol, and they may contain additional solvents. This solution
can be used to cleanse the natural nail as well as to remove the sticky
inhibition layer from the gel after curing. The cleansing solution you
choose should be the one recommended by the manufacturer.
• Lint-free cleansing wipes. Select an appropriate lint-free wipe to
cleanse the nail surface. When removing the inhibition layer from
light cured gel, avoid cleaning the nail in a manner that would put the
gel onto the surface of the skin. Using your cleansing wipe, start at the
top of the fingernail nearest the cuticle, and wipe away from the
cuticle to the free edge of the fingernail.
Storing Light Cured Gels

When storing light cured gels, ensure the lids are on tight and the
containers are upright to avoid leakage. Since light cured gels are light
sensitive, meaning light can cure the product, gels should be stored in a
dark, cool place to prolong the life of the product.
During a gel procedure, keep the brush and open gel containers away
from sunlight, gel lamps, and full-spectrum table lamps to prevent the gel
from hardening. When the service is completed, store the application
brush away from all sources of UV radiation. Do not leave your open
container of gel near a window or a UV or LED lamp. If the gel is
exposed to these sources of light, it will cure and become polymerized in
the container
lO 5 Determine when to use light cured gels on your client.
When to Use Light

Cured Gels
When to use light cured gels may seem like a question of personal
preference, but it really is a question of logic. The general answer could be,
“Anytime!” Gel technology has been able to create some very hard,
durable, and tough light cured gels. The new light cured resin technology
allows light cured gel manufacturers to create tough, durable, and hard
products that will perform as well as many of the monomer liquid and
polymer powder systems on the market. The answer could easily be,
“Never,” because there are customers that prefer to wear monomer liquid
and polymer powder. It is what they know—they have been wearing these
products for years and refuse to change. Most clients will do what you
recommend. If you wear and recommend monomer liquid and polymer
powder enhancements, that is what most of your clients will wear. If you
wear and recommend light cured gels, that will be their preference. You are
the professional and, as such, you should recommend a system that you
have used and feel will perform best for the client. There may be a
situation when you use a system on your client and that is not performing
as the two of you would like. It may be best to try something else. Maybe
a different gel resin or a change to monomer liquid and polymer powder

might be best. The answer to this question remains in your capable hands.
It is also possible to use a monomer liquid and polymer powder system for
the fill or full-set and to combine that with a light cured gloss gel to create
the shine over the enhancement. Pigmented gels, such as light cured gel
polishes, may also be used over the monomer liquid and polymer powder
system, if that is what you prefer.
There are other factors that will assist you in your choice of gels or
acrylics. The salon that you choose to work in or the environment you
create in your work area could impact your decision. Gels commonly have
fewer odors than acrylics, and if you are trying to create an environment
with fewer odors, a gel may be the right choice for you and your clients.
There is one more choice to consider for gels: Consider the new,
common gel polishes that are now on the market. Gel polishes are applied
in a similar manner to a traditional nail polish but contain less solvent,
cure under LED or UV light, and wear longer than traditional nail polish.
The choice of when to use a gel polish versus a traditional polish is yours
to make with your client. Questions to consider include:
• How easily would your client like the polish to be removed from the
fingernail? If the polish is to be removed away from the salon, perhaps
a traditional polish should be used.
• How long does the client desire the polish to last? If the polish is
meant to remain on the fingernail for two weeks, the best choice is a
gel polish.
29-3 Sculpting Light Cured Gel Using Forms See page 1009
29-5 Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements Finished

with UV or LED Gel Polish See page 1015
lO 6 List the four guidelines that will assist you in choosing the proper
light cured gel technology for your client.
Choose the Proper Light

Cured Gel Technology
There are many gels to choose from to perform your service. Here are a
few guidelines that will help you make the best choice:
• If the client has flat fingernails, more building will need to be done to
create an arch and curve. This building will be easiest when done with
a thicker UV or LED building gel.
• If the client has fingernails that have an arch and curve, then a self-
leveling gel may be the best option. Choose the self-leveling gel that
you prefer—either a medium- or thick-viscosity gel.

• If your client returns to the salon often with broken enhancements,
then a gel that uses fiberglass may be the best product for the
next service.
• If a client is in search of manicure with long-lasting polish, a soak-off
gel polish will be a great option.
lO 7 Discuss the differences between light cured lamps and bulbs.
Distinguish the Difference

Between Light Cured
Bulbs and Lamps
What is the difference between a UV bulb and a UV lamp?
A UV bulb, also known as UV light bulb, is a special bulb that emits
UV radiation to cure UV gel nail enhancements. There are a number of
bulbs that are used to cure light cured gels: 4-, 6-, 7-, 8-, and 9-watt bulbs.
A UV lamp also known as UV light unit, is a specialized electronic
device that powers and controls UV bulbs to cure UV gel nail
enhancements. Lamps that are currently being sold may look similar at
first but there are differences, including the number of bulbs in the unit,
the distance the bulbs are from the bottom of the unit, and the size of the
unit. These factors affect the curing power of the unit.
These bulb and lamp features are similar to LED, also known as light
emitting diodes. These small bulbs emit the correct wave of LED light to
cure LED gel products. A LED lamp is the electronic device that houses
the LED bulbs. Most LED lamps cure gel about four times faster than UV
lamps. Remember that the gel must have LED photo-initiators in order to
cure in a LED lamp. See manufacturer’s directions to see if the product
should cure in a UV or LED lamp. Most LED gel products also have UV
photo-initiators so they can be cured in either lamp; they just require
© markos86/Shutterstock.com
different cure times. For example, usually a cure time for a gel is 30
seconds in an LED or two minutes in a UV lamp.
Lamps are typically referred to by the number of bulbs inside the lamp
multiplied by the wattage. Remember that lamp wattage is the measure of
how much electricity the bulb consumes, much like miles per gallon tell
you how much gasoline a car requires to drive a certain distance. Miles per
gallon will not tell you how fast the car can go, just as wattage does not
indicate how much UV or LED light a bulb will produce. For example, if
a unit has four bulbs in it and each bulb is nine watts, then the lamp is
called a 36-watt lamp. Likewise, if the lamp only has three bulbs and each
bulb is also nine watts, then it is called a 27-watt lamp. Wattage does not
indicate how much UV or LED light a lamp will emit (figure 29-6).
Chapter 29 | Light Cured Ge ls 997

UV and LED gel lamps are designed to produce
Courtesy of Light Elegance Nail Products

the correct amount of UV or LED light needed to
properly cure the gel nail enhancement products.
Light cured gels are usually packaged in small
opaque pots or squeeze tubes to protect them
from UV and LED light. Even though UV and
LED light is invisible to the eye, it is found in
sunlight and tanning bulbs. Both true-color and
full-spectrum bulbs emit a significant amount
of ultraviolet radiation. If the gel product is
exposed to these types of ceiling or table bulbs,
figure 29-6
UV nail lamp the product’s shelf life may be shortened, causing
the product to harden in its container.
Depending on their circuitry, different bulbs produce greatly differing
amounts of UV and LED light. This is referred to as the UV and LED
bulb intensity or concentration. The intensity will vary from one lamp to
the next and is more important than the rating of a UV and LED lamp
based on the wattage of the bulb or the number of bulbs in the unit. For
these reasons, it is important to use the UV or LED bulb that was
designed for the selected UV and LED gel product. This will give you a
much greater chance of success and fewer problems. Also, keep in mind
that some lamps are designed to cure four fingers at once and recommend
that the thumbs be cured separately. There are also lamps that are designed
to allow enough light for the thumb to cure with the rest of the hand.
These units are usually referred to as five-finger lights. You will need to
know this information when using your lamp during the service so that
the gels are cured correctly.
UV bulbs will stay violet for years; however, after a few months of use,
they may produce too little UV radiation to properly cure the
enhancement. Typically, UV bulbs must be changed two or three times per
year, depending on frequency of use. If the bulbs are not changed
regularly, gels may cure inadequately, meaning the oligomers and
additional chemicals are not hardened. This can cause service breakdown,
skin irritation, and product sensitivity.
The most common UV bulb that is on the market is a nine-watt bulb.
While many of the UV gel systems use the nine-watt bulb, most of the
gels can be cured in any manufacturer’s 36-watt lamp. A gel that has been
specifically designed to cure in a 36-watt lamp may not be able to be
cured properly in a 16-watt lamp. The UV gel may become hard when
cured in the 16-watt lamp, but it may not become as hard or cure
completely. If the gel does not cure completely, it will crack, lift, and
separate from the nail. It may not have a high shine, and the client will
not be pleased with the service. The result will be similar to a monomer
liquid and polymer powder system that has been applied with an incorrect
mix-ratio between the liquid and the powder.
LED lights are becoming more common in the salon—most are used
to cure the new gel polishes that are applied similarly to a traditional nail
polish. These LED lights are not UV and therefore will not cure most of
the traditional UV gels to their completed cure strength. There is a wide
selection of LED lights on the market, and as such, it is strongly

recommended that you use only lights that the manufacturer endorses. h ere ’ s a t i p
Using the wrong LED light source could drastically effect the curing of the The heat from the chemical reaction
LED gel. caused when UV or LED gels cure can
While this chapter was being written in 2014, a media release was make some clients uncomfortable. The
published that claimed that UV nail curing lights could cause skin canceri. heat can be controlled by slowly inserting
the hand into the UV or LED lamp. This
There have been no studies to date that support this claim. Three UV gel
will help to slow the chemical reaction and
manufacturers conducted a series of independent studies that found little generate less heat. The heat is a result of
to no evidence to support the claim that UV nail lights could cause cancer. the exothermic reaction of the gel as each
The lamp has as much to do with the proper curing of the UV or bond of the polymer is created; the more
LED gel as the bulb! Not all lamps are the same. The differences between bonds that are formed when the gel cures,
the structures of the lamps will alter the curing potential of the unit. For the more heat is generated. In addition,
example, if two lamps are similar in every other respect, but lamp A has the more bonds that are created when
been constructed with the UV or LED bulbs closer to the fingernails than the gel polymerizes, the stronger the gel
will be.
lamp B, lamp A will have more curing potential than lamp B. Thus, the
bulbs are not going to provide the same results. The lamps are both nine-
watt and have the same number of bulbs, but lamp A is more powerful
than lamp B.
Consult with the gel manufacturer to receive more detailed
information on which lamp and bulb will properly cure their light
cured gels.
lO 8 Identify the advantages of using light cured gel polish.
Specify the Advantages of

Light Cured Gel Polish
Light cured gel polish has become a popular service to complement gels
and all other enhancement services, including natural nails. Light cured gel
polish is a relatively new system that evolved in 2000 with the emergence
of new chemistries that became available to the beauty industry. The more
popular light cured gel polishes are highly pigmented, which gives these
systems the appearance of a traditional solvent-based nail lacquer. Light
cured gel polishes are available in hundreds of shades, much the same as
traditional nail polish, to suit every client.
Wearing light cured gel polishes instead of traditional nail lacquers
does offer great advantages; however, they are removed differently than
traditional nail polish. One advantage of light cured gel polishes is that
they do not dry—they cure. Cured gel polish systems will not imprint or
smudge if the client hits her hands while the nail lacquer is still drying.
Another advantage is that the light cured gel polish does not thicken over
time because the solvent does not evaporate. Solvent evaporation makes
nail lacquers thicken and dry more slowly after the bottle of nail polish has
been open for a few months. Since the solvent does not evaporate in light
cured gel polish, a container of such polish will last longer.

lO 9 Describe how to maintain light cured gel nail enhancements.

lO 10 Explain how to correctly remove hard light cured gels.
lO 11 Identify the correct way to remove soft light cured gels.
Relate Nail Art to

Light Cured Gels
Light cured gels can be used to create beautiful nail enhancements and can
also be a very lucrative nail art medium. There are many colors of
pigmented light cured gels on the market today, and by using some simple
techniques you can create an array of inlaid art that your clients will love.
Inlaid art is art sandwiched between two layers of enhancement products.
The finished art is inside the nail. The surface of the nail is smooth, and
the nail structure is not compromised by the art inside. It’s also fun to add
embellishments, such as glitter or confetti to clear UV or LED gel. This
technique can be used to create the nail enhancement itself or to apply
over a nail enhancement (figure 29-7).
Perform Light Cured

Gel Maintenance and
Removal
Light cured gel enhancements must be maintained regularly, depending on
how fast the client’s nails grow. Maintenance service every two weeks is
customary for this service.
Gel Maintenance
Begin the maintenance using a medium-grit abrasive file (180-grit) to thin
and shape the enhancement. Be careful not to damage the new growth on
the natural nail plate with the abrasive when you are preparing the nail for
the UV or LED gel maintenance.
Before adding UV or LED gel to the new growth area of the natural
nail, be sure to clean the nail with the manufacturer’s recommended
cleanser or isopropanol (99 percent or better). This removes oils from the
fingernail and results in better adhesion of the gel to the nail plate. It is
important to remember that you must file with a light touch, because it is
usually easier to file light cured gel enhancements than monomer liquid and
figure 29-7
polymer powder enhancements, as the product is softer and removes easily.
Sculptured UV gel enhancements with
confetti and glitter inlaid designs 29-4 Light Cured Gel Maintenance See page 1012

Light Cured Gel Removal here’s a tip
There are two types of gel, and each employs a different removal method. When providing enhancement
services, ask whether the client would like
• Hard UV and LED gels, also known as traditional gels, cannot be enhancements that are removed easily.
removed with a solvent, such as acetone. These traditional gels, If the client does, use a soak-off UV or
including colored gels, must be filed off the natural nail to be removed. LED gel as the base coat (following the
manufacturer’s recommendations on that
• Soft UV and LED gels, also known as soakable gels, including gel gel product application), and then perform
polishes, are removed by soaking in acetone for approximately 5 to the remainder of the service. Before the
15 minutes or product remover to soften them, allowing the client leaves the salon, arrange a date for
cosmetologist to easily scrape off the loosened gel polish with a her to return to have the UV or LED gel
wooden stick. removed.
It is important that you read and follow the manufacturer’s directions

before removing light cured gel nails.
29-6 Light Cured Gel Removal—Hard Gel See page 1017
29-7 Light Cured Gel Removal—Soft or Soakable Gel Polishes

See page 1018
© Andrey_Popov/Shutterstock.com
Chapter 29 | Light Cured Ge ls 1001

29-1
One-Color
Method UV or
LED Gel on Tips
or Natural Nails
Finishing With UV
or LED Gel Polish
i m p l e m e n t s & m at e r i a l s
In addition to the basic materials on your manicuring table, you will need the following supplies:
Cleansing solution Nail dehydrator UV or LED gel for the UV or LED gel primer or
Gel brush Nail tips and resin application bonding gel
Lint-free cleansing Nylon brush (for UV or LED gel lamp
wipes removing dust) UV or LED gel polish
p r e pa r at i o n procedure
Perform: 1 Clean the nails with soap and water. Dry the hands thoroughly with a clean
disposable towel, and then remove the existing polish. Begin with your client’s little
25-1 Pre-Service finger on the right hand and work toward the thumb. Repeat on the left hand.
Procedure See page 880
2 Apply cuticle remover to the nail plate, if needed. Gently push back the
eponychium, and carefully remove cuticle tissue from the nail plate.
3 Gently file or buff the nail plate with

medium/fine abrasive (180- to 240-grit) or
the abrasive recommended by the gel
manufacturer, to remove the shine on the
surface of the nail plate. After filing and/or
buffing, remove dust from the nail surface
with a clean, dry nylon brush.
4 Use a cleanser and a dehydrator per the manufacturer’s recommendation

to remove any oils and debris from the fingernail. This increases the adhesive
properties of the gel.

P r o c e d u r e 2 9 - 1
5 If your client requires nail tips, apply them according to Procedure 27-1, Nail Tip
Application, in Chapter 27, Nail Tips and Wraps. Be sure to shorten and shape the tip
before the application of the UV or LED gel. During the procedure, the UV gel overlaps the
tip’s edge to prevent lifting. This seal can be broken during the filing process, allowing the
UV gel to peel or lift. Be careful not to break this seal.
6 If applicable, follow the 7 If applicable, cure the bonding 8 Gently brush or float the UV or
manufacturer’s instructions for gel according to the manufacturer’s LED gel onto the fingernail surface,
applying the bonding gel or primer. directions. including the free edge. Leave a
Using the applicator brush, insert 3
⁄16-inch (4.76 mm) gap around the
the brush into the nail primer or cuticle and sidewall area of the
bonding gel. Wipe off any excess fingernail. Keep the UV or LED gel
from the brush, and, using a slightly from touching the cuticle, eponychium,
damp brush, ensure that the nail or sidewalls. Apply on four fingers,
plate is completely covered per the from pinky to pointer finger.
manufacturer’s recommendations.
Avoid using too much product to
prevent running into the skin.
10 Repeat steps 8 and 9 on the

left hand, and then repeat the
same steps for both thumbs.
9 Properly position the hand 11 Apply a small bead of UV or LED

under the UV or LED bulb for the gel to the apex of the nail to create a
required cure time, as indicated by slight arch. Repeat this application
the manufacturer. process on the remaining three
fingernails.
12 Cure the gel application by properly positioning the hand in the UV or LED lamp
for the manufacturer’s required cure time.
13 Repeat steps 11 and 12 on the left hand, and then repeat the same steps for
both thumbs.
14 Apply a layer of self-leveling gel if needed. This layer is to perfect the shape
and add thickness to the enhancement. Cure for the time required by the
manufacturer. This step is not necessary when applying to the natural nail.

Procedure 29-1
15 Remove the inhibition layer by cleaning with the manufacturer’s cleanser

on a lint-free wipe. Avoid skin contact.
16 Using a medium or fine abrasive (180- or 240-grit), refine the surface

contour. File carefully near the sidewalls and eponychium to avoid injuring
the client’s skin. Check the free edge thickness and even out imperfections
with gentle strokes.
17 Remove the dust and filings with a clean and disinfected nylon brush.
Cleanse the nails with surface cleanser and a lint-free wipe. Now evaluate
the work you just completed and make any necessary adjustments.
18 To add gel polish to the final look, brush the first coat of light cured gel
polish thinly over the entire surface of the enhancement. Apply a small
amount of the light cured gel polish to the free edge of the fingernail to cap
the end and create an even and consistent appearance. Apply to remaining
three fingernails.
19 Place the hand inside the UV or LED lamp in the proper location and cure the
first coat of gel polish for the recommended period of time.
20 Repeat steps 18 and 19 on the opposite hand, then repeat the same
steps for both thumbs.

P r o c e d u r e 2 9 - 1
21 Apply UV or LED glossing gel

(sealer, gloss, or finisher gel) and
cure.
22 Remove the inhibition layer, if required.
23 Apply and rub nail oil into the surrounding skin, massaging briefly to speed up penetration.
24 Ask the client to wash her hands with soap and water at the hand washing station, or ask
her to use the nail brush to clean her nails over a finger bowl. Rinse with clean water to
remove soap residue. Dry the hands thoroughly with a clean disposable towel.
25 Apply hand cream and massage the hands and arms.
26 Finished look.
p o s t- s e r v i c e
Complete:
25-2 Post-Service Procedure See page 884

29-2
Two-Color
Method UV
or LED Gel
on Tips or
Natural Nails
Cleansing solution Nail dehydrator Pink UV or LED gel and UV or LED gel primer or
white UV or LED gel bonding gel
Gel brush Nail tips
Lint-free cleansing Nylon brush UV or LED gel lamp
wipes
Perform: 1 Clean the nails and remove existing polish.
25-1 Pre-Service 2 Apply cuticle remover to the nail plate, if needed. Gently push back the
Procedure See page 880 eponychium and remove cuticle tissue from the nail plate.
3 Gently file or buff the nails with a medium/fine (180- to 240-grit) buffer or the
abrasive recommended by the gel manufacturer, to remove the shine on the
surface of the nail plate.
4 Remove the dust from the nail surfaces.
5 Use a cleanser and dehydrator per the manufacturer’s recommendation to

remove any oils and debris from the fingernail. This increases the adhesive
6 Apply primer or bonding gel to the natural nail only. Apply nail tips with resin,
if desired.
7 Cure bonding gel, if required, following the manufacturer’s directions.

P r o c e d u r e 2 9 - 2
8 Select the desired white gel, and apply it over the tip and along the
sidewalls of the fingernail to create the smile line. Be sure to apply this layer
of gel thin enough to allow the gel to cure completely through to the surface
of the tip. If there is white gel where you do not want it to be, wipe the
unwanted gel from the fingernail tip.
9 Using a lint-free nail wipe, pinch the bristles of the brush in the nail wipe to pull off
excess gel. Do not use solvents to clean the bristles.
10 Using the tip of your clean gel brush, wipe across the smile line to create
a clean, crisp, U-shaped line. Repeat this process until you have the desired
smile line. Make certain that all smile lines are uniform from nail to nail before
curing the gel.
11 Flash cure the white gel one or two fingers at a time in the lamp for
the product manufacturer’s recommended time. Repeat steps until each
finger is cured.
12 If the white gel does not have the same brightness and consistency on all fingers,
repeat steps 8-11.
15 Repeat steps 13 and 14 on the

left hand, and then repeat the same
13 Gently float a pink-tinted gel 14 After the application of four

onto the fingernail surface, including fingers, cure the pink gel in the UV
the free edge. Leave a 3⁄16-inch or LED lamp for the recommended
(4.76 mm) gap around the cuticle time.
and the sidewall area of the
fingernail. Keep the gel from
touching the cuticle, eponychium,
or sidewalls.
C hapter 29 | Light C ured Gels 1007

Procedure 29-2
16 Apply a small amount of pink self-leveling gel across the first layer, and
float it into place. Float the self-leveling gel over and around the free edge to
create a seal. Avoid touching the skin under the free edge to prevent skin
irritation and sensitivity. Repeat this application for all four nails.
17 Cure the self-leveling gel.
18 Repeat steps 16 and 17 on the left hand, and then repeat the same steps for both thumbs.
19 Another layer of the UV or LED gel will add thickness to the enhancement
if it is desired. Cure the nails.
20 Remove the inhibition layer.
21 Contour the nails with a medium/fine-grit abrasive (180- or 240-grit).
22 Remove the dust with a nylon brush. Evaluate the work you just completed and make any
necessary adjustments.
23 Apply the UV or LED gloss gel (sealer, gloss, or finisher gel). Cure the nails.
25 Apply and rub nail oil into the surrounding skin, massaging briefly to speed up penetration.
26 Ask the client to wash her hands with soap and water at the hand washing station, or ask her to
use the nail brush to clean her nails over a finger bowl. Rinse with clean water to remove soap
residue. Dry thoroughly with a clean disposable towel.
27 Apply hand cream and massage the hands and arms. Thoroughly clean each nail of lotion.
28 Finished look.
Complete:

29-3
Sculpting
Light Cured
Gel Using
Forms
Cleansing solution Lint-free cleansing Nail forms UV or LED gel lamp
Gel brush wipes UV or LED gel UV or LED gel primer or
Nail dehydrator bonding gel
Perform: 1 Clean the nails with soap and water and dry hands thoroughly. Remove the
existing polish.
25-1 Pre-Service
Procedure See page 880 2 Apply cuticle remover to the nail plate if needed. Gently push back the eponychium
and remove cuticle from the nail plate. File the free edge of the nails as needed.
3 Gently buff the nails with a medium (180-grit) buffer, or the abrasive
recommended by the gel manufacturer, to remove the shine on the surface of the
nail plate. Then remove dust using a clean, dry nail brush.
4 Use a cleanser and/or nail dehydrator per the manufacturer’s recommendation to

remove any oils and debris from the fingernails. This increases the adhesive
5 Fit forms onto all fingers (as described

in Chapter 27, Nail Tips and Wraps).

Procedure 29-3
8 Repeat steps 6 and 7 on the left

hand, and then repeat the same
6 Apply the primer or bonding gel. 7 Cure the bonding gel, if required.
11 Apply a second layer of the UV or

LED gel (building or self-leveling gel).
Properly position the hand and cure
the gel for the required time.
9 Apply the first coat of UV or 10 Properly position the hand in the

LED gel (building or self-leveling lamp and cure the gel for the required
gel). Consider applying the first coat time.
to one finger at a time to prevent
the gel from running.
12 If the extension still bends, apply another layer of building or self-leveling UV or LED gel
over the entire enhancement and cure. Repeat as needed until the extension doesn’t bend.
13 Remove the nail forms by pinching the form just before the hyponychium
of the finger and then gently pulling the form down and away from the
finger.
14 Cure the gel (building or self-leveling gel). Then remove the inhibition layer.
15 Use a medium abrasive (180-grit) to file and shape the free edge of the enhancement.
16 Apply another layer of UV or LED gel (building or self-leveling gel), if

needed, over the entire enhancement.

P r o c e d u r e 2 9 - 3
17 File the nails by using a medium/fine abrasive (180- to 240-grit), and

refine the surface contour. Be certain to file the enhancement to create
an arch and curve in order to optimize the strength of the overlay and
create an elegant beauty to the enhancement.
18 Remove the dust. Evaluate your work, and make any necessary adjustments. If finishing with gel
polish, do so now, according to Procedure 29-1, steps 18-20, on page 1004. Otherwise, proceed to
step 19.
19 Apply the gloss UV or LED gel (sealer, gloss, or finisher).
20 Cure the nail gel.
21 Remove the inhibition layer, if required, with cleanser and a lint-free wipe.
22 Apply and rub nail oil into the surrounding skin and nail enhancement, massaging briefly to
speed up penetration.
23 Ask the client to wash her hands with soap and water at the hand washing station, or ask her to
use the nail brush to clean her nails over a finger bowl. Rinse with clean water to remove soap
residue. Dry thoroughly with a clean, disposable towel.
25 Apply nail polish, if desired.
26 Finished look.
Complete:

29-4
Light
Cured Gel
Maintenance
Cleansing solution Lint-free cleansing UV or LED gel UV or LED gel primer or
Gel brush wipes UV or LED gel lamp bonding gel
Nail dehydrator
Perform: 1 Clean the nails with soap and water, and dry the hands thoroughly. Remove the
existing polish.
25-1 Pre-Service
Procedure See page 880 2 Apply cuticle remover to the nail plate if needed. Gently push back the
eponychium and remove cuticle from the nail plate.
3 File (gently) the nail plate with medium/

fine abrasive (180- to 240-grit) to reduce
and shape the nail surface.
4 Lightly buff the natural nail regrowth with a medium (180-grit) buffer or the
abrasive recommended by the gel manufacturer to remove the shine on the surface
of the natural nail plate.
5 Remove dust from the nail surfaces.

P r o c e d u r e 2 9 - 4
6 Use a cleanser and/or dehydrator per the manufacturer’s recommendation to

remove any oils and debris from the fingernail. This increases the adhesive
7 Apply primer or bonding gel to the natural nail according to the

manufacturer’s directions.
8 Cure the bonding gel if required.
9 Lightly brush the UV or LED gel onto the nail from the natural nail
regrowth to the free edge. Keep the gel from touching the cuticle,
eponychium, or sidewalls. Apply the gel to the client’s right hand, from little
finger to pointer finger.
10 Cure the gel on the right hand for the manufacturer’s recommended time.
11 Repeat steps 9 and 10 on the left hand. Then repeat the same steps for both thumbs.
12 Remove the inhibition layer from all nails with cleanser on a lint-free
wipe.
13 File and buff using a medium or fine abrasive (180- to 240-grit). Refine
the surface contour. Evaluate the work you just completed, and make any
necessary adjustments.

Procedure 29-4
14 Remove the dust, and then clean the fingernails. If finishing with gel polish, do so
now, according to Procedure 29-1, steps 18-20, on page 1004. Otherwise, proceed to
step 15.
15 Apply the UV or LED gloss gel (sealer, gloss, or finisher gel).
16 Cure the gloss gel.
18 Apply and rub nail oil into the surrounding skin and nail enhancement, massaging
briefly to speed up penetration.
19 Ask the client to wash her hands with soap and water at the hand washing station
or ask her to use the nail brush to clean her nails over a finger bowl. Rinse with clean
water to remove soap residue. Dry thoroughly with a clean disposable towel.
20 Apply hand cream and massage the hands and arms. Thoroughly clean each nail
of lotion.
21 Apply nail polish, if desired.
22 Finished look.
Complete:

29-5
Monomer Liquid
and Polymer
Powder Nail
Enhancements
Finished with UV
or LED Gel Polish
Cleansing solution Lint-free cleansing UV or LED gel lamp UV or LED gel sealer or
Gel brush wipes UV or LED gel polish top coat
Nylon brush
Perform: 1 Perform monomer liquid and polymer
powder application described in Chapter 28,
25-1 Pre-Service Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail
Enhancements. Once the monomer liquid and
polymer powder enhancements have been
filed and contoured to the correct shape and
length, they will be ready for the gel polish
application. Note: Do not buff the nails
smooth or use any oils during the filing
process as this can prevent adhesion.
2 Remove the dust and filings with a clean

and disinfected nylon brush. Remove any oils
that may have been deposited on the
fingernails during filing.

Procedure 29-5
3 Apply a very thin coat of UV or LED gel polish over the entire surface and
edge of the enhancement in a brushing technique. Apply to all five nails on
one hand, or as recommended by the manufacturer.
4 Place the hand inside the UV or LED lamp in the proper location and cure for the recommended period of time.
5 Repeat steps 3 and 4 on the opposite hand.
6 Apply a second thin coat of UV or LED gel polish over the entire surface of the enhancement on one hand and
cure. Repeat on opposite hand.
7 Apply the gel polish top gel, sealer, finish, or gloss gel on one hand.
Starting from the base of the nail plate, stroke toward the free edge, using
polish-style strokes and covering the entire nail surface and edge. Avoid
touching the client’s skin, as this will cause lifting.
8 Cure the gloss gel.
10 Apply and rub nail oil into the surrounding skin and nail enhancement, massaging briefly to speed up penetration.
11 Ask the client to wash her hands with soap and water at the hand washing station, or ask her to use a nail brush
to clean her nails over a finger bowl. Rinse with clean water to remove soap residue that may cause lifting. Dry
thoroughly with a clean disposable towel.
13 Finished look.
Complete:

29-6
Light Cured Gel

Removal—Hard Gel
Abrasives Nail buffer Nail oil
Perform: 1 Clean hands and remove polish if applicable.
25-1 Pre-Service
Procedure See page 880 2 Use a medium-grit abrasive (150- to
180-grit) to reduce the thickness of the
enhancement on the fingernail. Take care
not to file into the natural nail.
3 Use a fine grit nail buffer (240-grit or

higher) to smooth the enhancement. Talk
with the client about how to allow the rest
of the enhancements to grow out and off of
the fingernails. Evaluate the work you just
completed, and make any necessary
adjustments.
4 While massaging nail oil into the nail and surrounding skin, suggest that your
client have natural nail manicures to ensure that the enhancements grow off correctly.
Have your client wash her hands and dry thoroughly. Perform an arm and hand
massage before completing the service.
5 Finished look.
Complete:

29-7
Light Cured Gel

Removal—Soft or
Soakable Gel Polishes
Abrasives Gel product remover (as Nail oil
Buffer recommended by the gel Wooden pusher
manufacturer)
Metal or glass bowl
Perform: 1 Clean hands and remove polish if applicable. Gently file the surface of the gel
enhancement or gel polish with a 180-grit file.
25-1 Pre-Service
2 Pour the soak-off solution into a finger
bowl or other glass or metal container so
that the level of the remover is sufficient to
completely immerse the fingernails in the
solution.
3 Soak the client’s fingernails in the solution for the manufacturer’s

recommended period of time.
4 Use a wooden stick to ease the gel off

the fingernail.
1018 part 5 | NAIL CAR E

P r o c e d u r e 2 9 - 7
5 Lightly buff the fingernail with a fine-grit buffer (240-grit or higher) to remove
any remaining gel material from the fingernail area.
6 While massaging nail oil into the nail and surrounding skin, evaluate the work
you just completed, and make any necessary adjustments. Have your client wash
her hands and dry thoroughly. Perform an arm and hand massage before
completing the service.
7 Finished look.
Complete:

R eview q uestions
1 Describe the chemistry and main ingredients of light 7 What are the differences between light cured lamps
cured gels. and light cured bulbs?
2 When would you use a one-color method of 8 List the steps to use when applying one-color, light
applying light cured gels? When would you use a cured gel on tips or natural nails.
two-color method for applying light cured gels?
9 Describe how light cured gels are applied over
3 What are the different types of light cured gels forms.
found in current systems?
10 Describe how to maintain light cured gel nail
4 What supplies are needed for light cured gel enhancements.
application?
11 Explain how to correctly remove hard light cured
5 When should you use light cured gels? gels.
6 When should you use a building gel, a self-leveling 12 Identify how to correctly remove soft light cured
gel, or a light cured gel that uses fiberglass? gels.
S T U D Y TOOLS
• Reinforce what you just learned: Complete the • Re-Test your knowledge: Take the Chapter 29 Quizzes!
activities and exercises in your Theory or Practical • Learn even more: Look up in a dictionary or search the
Workbook, or your Study Guide. internet for the definitions of any additional terms you
• Expand your knowledge: Search for websites about want to learn about.
the topics in this chapter and make a list of additional
resources.
• Study and prepare for your quiz: Take the chapter
test in your Exam Review or your Milady U: Online
Licensing Prep.
C hapter gl ossary
bonding gels p. 991 Gels used to increase adhesion to the natural nail plate.
building gels p. 991 Any thick-viscosity adhesive resin that is used to build an arch and curve
to the fingernail.
cure p. 990 To harden.
gel polish p. 992 A very thin-viscosity, light cured gel that is usually pigmented and
packaged in a pot or a polish bottle and used as an alternative to
traditional nail lacquers.
glossing gel p. 992 Also known as sealing gel, finishing gel, or shine gel; these gels are used
over the finished light cured gel application to create a high shine.

hard UV and LED gels p. 1001 Also known as traditional UV and LED gels; gels that cannot be removed
with a solvent and must be filed off the natural nail.
inhibition layer p. 992 The tacky surface left on the nail after a light cured gel has cured.
lamp wattage p. 997 The measure of how much electricity the bulb consumes.
LED p. 997 Light emitting diode.
LED lamp p. 997 The electronic device that houses the LED bulbs.
light cured gel p. 988 Also known as UV and LED gel; type of nail enhancement product that
hardens when exposed to a UV and LED light.
oligomer p. 988 Short chain of monomer liquids that is often thick, sticky, and gel-like and
uh-LIG-uh-mer that is not long enough to be considered a polymer.
one-color method p. 990 When one color of gel, usually clear, is applied over the entire surface of
the nail.
opacity p. 993 The amount of colored pigment concentration in a gel, making it more or
oh-PAY-sit-ee less difficult to see through.
photoinitiator p. 989 A chemical that initiates the polymerization reaction.
FOH-toh-in-ish-ee-AY-tohr
pigmented gels p. 991 Any building or self-leveling gel that includes color pigment.
self-leveling gels p. 991 Gels that are thinner in consistency than building gels, allowing them to
settle and level during application.
soft UV and LED gels p. 1001 Also known as soakable gels; these gels are removed by soaking in
acetone.
two-color method p. 990 A method whereby two colors of resin are used to overlay the nail.
urethane acrylate p. 989 A main ingredient used to create light cured gel nail enhancements.
urethane methacrylate p. 989 A main ingredient used alone or in combination with urethane acrylates to
create light cured gel nail enhancements.
UV bulb p. 997 Also known as UV light bulb; special bulb that emits UV and LED light to
cure UV and LED gel nail enhancements.
UV lamp p. 997 Also known as UV light unit; specialized electronic device that powers and
controls UV and LED bulbs to cure UV and LED gel nail enhancements.
viscosity p. 990 The measurement of the thickness or thinness of a liquid and how the
vis-KAHS-ut-tee fluid flows.
C hapter 29 | Light C ured Gels 1021


13th - Edition-Chapter - 29 Light Cured Gels

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13th - Edition-Chapter - 29 Light Cured Gels

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29

Light Cured Gels

Specify the Advantages of

Relate Nail Art to Light lO 9

LIGHT CURED GELS?

lO 1 Describe the chemistry and main ingredients of light cured gels.

988 part 5 | NAIL CARE

lO 2 Explain when you would use a one-color or two-

lO 3 List the different types of light cured gels used in

990 part 5 | NAIL CARE

C hapter 29 | Li ght Cu red Gels 991

992 part 5 | NAIL CARE

lO 4 Identify the supplies needed for light cured gel application.

Name the Supplies

C hapter 29 | Li ght Cu red Gels 993

Storing Light Cured Gels

lO 5 Determine when to use light cured gels on your client.

When to Use Light

C hapter 29 | Li ght Cu red Gels 995

29-3 Sculpting Light Cured Gel Using Forms See page 1009

29-5 Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements Finished

Choose the Proper Light

996 part 5 | NAIL CARE

lO 7 Discuss the differences between light cured lamps and bulbs.

Distinguish the Difference

Chapter 29 | Light Cured Ge ls 997

Courtesy of Light Elegance Nail Products

998 part 5 | NAIL CARE

lO 8 Identify the advantages of using light cured gel polish.

Specify the Advantages of

C hapter 29 | Li ght Cu red Gels 999

lO 9 Describe how to maintain light cured gel nail enhancements.

Relate Nail Art to

Perform Light Cured

1000 part 5 | NAIL CARE

It is important that you read and follow the manufacturer’s directions

29-6 Light Cured Gel Removal—Hard Gel See page 1017

29-7 Light Cured Gel Removal—Soft or Soakable Gel Polishes

Chapter 29 | Light Cured Ge ls 1001

3 Gently file or buff the nail plate with

4 Use a cleanser and a dehydrator per the manufacturer’s recommendation

1002 part 5 | NAIL CARE

10 Repeat steps 8 and 9 on the

9 Properly position the hand 11 Apply a small bead of UV or LED

C hapter 29 | Li ght Cu red Gels 1003

15 Remove the inhibition layer by cleaning with the manufacturer’s cleanser

16 Using a medium or fine abrasive (180- or 240-grit), refine the surface

1004 part 5 | NAIL CARE

21 Apply UV or LED glossing gel

22 Remove the inhibition layer, if required.

25 Apply hand cream and massage the hands and arms.

25-2 Post-Service Procedure See page 884

C hapter 29 | Li ght Cu red Gels 1005

4 Remove the dust from the nail surfaces.

5 Use a cleanser and dehydrator per the manufacturer’s recommendation to

7 Cure bonding gel, if required, following the manufacturer’s directions.

1006 part 5 | NAIL CARE

15 Repeat steps 13 and 14 on the

13 Gently float a pink-tinted gel 14 After the application of four

C hapter 29 | Light C ured Gels 1007

17 Cure the self-leveling gel.

20 Remove the inhibition layer.

21 Contour the nails with a medium/fine-grit abrasive (180- or 240-grit).

29-3 Sculpting Light Cured Gel Using Forms See page 1009

29-5 Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements Finished

29-6 Light Cured Gel Removal—Hard Gel See page 1017

29-7 Light Cured Gel Removal—Soft or Soakable Gel Polishes