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HANSIK, Korean Food and Drinks

Stories and Traditions


Contents

Preface 4
Prologue 6

Part 1 Exploring the Depth of Hansik Part 3 Learning about Korean Alcoholic Beverages
The History and Philosophy of Hansik 12 The Origins of Korean Liquor and People’s Brewing Philosophy 86

Characteristics of Hansik 18 The History and Types of Korean Alcoholic Beverages 88

Korean Fermented Food 23 The Unique and Distinctive Nature of Korean Brewing Culture 96
The Meaning of Gayangju and Korea’s Drinking Culture 103
Korean Table Settings and Table Manners 34
How Koreans Drink in Style 107
Alcoholic Beverages Suitable for Korean Dinners 111

Part 2 A Wide Range of Hansik Part 4 Bonus for Your Korean Cuisine Knowledge
Different Types of Hansik 46 Frequently Asked Questions by Foreigners 118

Hansik Now? 63 Korean Culture Tips for Foreigners to Know 122

Hansik around the World 74 Common Korean Culinary Terms 128

Bibliography 136
Source of Images 138

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Preface

Congratulations on the publication of HANSIK, Food is the most basic and important cultural
Korean Food and Drinks. Hansik, or Korean food, element to understand a country. It is impossible
is a special part of Korean culture. The history and to forget all the new food that we have tasted
identity of our country are embedded in it, and in other countries. Many foreigners who have
K-food is the main driving force of the Korean visited Korea or eaten Korean food (hansik) in
Wave, which promotes Korean culture in many their respective countries are fascinated by the
countries around the world. Korean food is also taste and beauty of Korean food and are curious
a valuable economic product. It creates high about it. In order to satisfy their curiosity
added value and contributes to the expansion of and promote Korean food, we need to make
Korea’s agri-food export market. efforts to learn about the value and philosophy of Korean food so that we can better
understand it.
The Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs and the Korean Food Promotion
Institute are working to discover and inherit the original form of Korean food and to With respect to Korean food, all the dishes are generally set on one table, and even if
promote the excellence of Korean food at home and abroad. In August last year, the the same ingredients are used, the recipes are different and served in various shapes
Korean Food Promotion Act was enacted to lay the legal and institutional foundation and forms. At the same time, it is a Korean dining table where all the foods come into
necessary for the innovative growth of the Korean food industry. harmony with one another. Fermented sauces and kimchi, which reflect the wisdom
of Korea’s ancestors, are healthy and rich in flavor.
The Overseas Korean Food Consumer Survey, which examines the current conditions
and changes in Korean food consumption by overseas consumers, confirmed Believing that food is medicine, ancient Koreans put healthy food on the table in a
that people are highly likely to continue to enjoy Korean food once they taste it. balanced manner and enjoyed nature by capturing seasonal changes in food using
Satisfaction with Korean food reached 95.7% in New York, and 98.4% in Shanghai in seasonal ingredients. The dining table in Korea, which tried to capture the whole
2019. This is a 36.2% increase in New York and a 16.9% increase in Shanghai from five universe through five colors and five tastes based on Yin-Yang and the Five Elements
years ago. The number of Korean restaurants in foreign countries has rapidly grown Theory, also retains its stylishness. During the Joseon Dynasty, when the culture of
over the last decade, from 10,000 in 2010 to 30,000 today. Particularly noteworthy is gayangju (homebrewed liquor) flourished, hundreds of different kinds of Korean
that 89.6% of foreigners were willing to revisit Korean restaurants. alcoholic beverages competed with their qualities, with one of the most well-known
terms being “Every well-known family has its own recipe for delicious liquors.”
As such, Korean food has enough potential to cross borders and be on the tables of
people around the world. In order to grow its potential and become one of the world’s Korean food, which has been around for thousands of years, has many stories.
most popular foods, there needs to be diverse efforts to bring more awareness of Although it is impossible to include all aspects of Korean food and Korean alcoholic
Korean food. This book is part of that effort. beverages in this book, I tried to show many different aspects of Korean food through
this book, and hope this will help everyone realize the value of Korean food—some
I hope that all Koreans working at government agencies and overseas branches around dishes and beverages which many people did not know about beforehand—and draw
the world will understand Korean food more deeply and take the lead in sharing us all closer to this unique cuisine.
Korean food with others, while keeping in mind that you are also promoting Korean
culture on behalf of Korea around the world. Thank you. October 2020
 
October 2020
Sunjae Mayul
 
 President, Korean Food Promotion Institute
Kim Hyeon-soo
Minister of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs

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Prologue

Korean cuisine, or hansik, is a source of great pride for Koreans, luxury goods; tasting new foods is an experience that allows for an
representing a national food source for an entire nation. In the emotional exchange—sharing while eating together—and a cultural
country’s 5,000-year history, hansik has transformed itself through act that is made possible when supported by economic affluence, an
the turbulent times, helping Koreans to survive. With numerous epicurean sense and a love of culture.
vegetables that helped people stay alive in times when they lacked Yet what about cases in which a person who is financially
food, the rice and grain farmers cultivated after overcoming adverse challenged yet has a refined palette? According to sociologist Pierre
weather conditions, and the abundant seafood that could be Bourdieu, when expensive French cuisine was in vogue in the past,
obtained on three sides of the peninsula played an important role in intellectuals with little or no money preferred Italian or Chinese
making life better for everyone. Today, hansik is now emerging as cuisine, which was cheaper than French cuisine, but also offered
a new and unique alternative source of food for people around the insight into a new culture. The Italian and Chinese cuisine in this
world in terms of its effects on the environment and people’s health. context can be described as the contemporary cuisine of the time.
In addition to being labelled “healthy food,” hansik not only has a More recently, hansik has been rapidly emerging as a popular ethnic
long history behind it, but also a unique philosophy and wisdom to food in Western society, a new cuisine that has a clean taste and
it. In order to share this with more people around the world, efforts is healthy. There is no doubt that hansik has the full potential to
should be made to teach more people about hansik. For those who become a popular contemporary cuisine for the 21st century.
want to learn more about hansik, this book describes the history,
philosophy, and culture of Korean cuisine in an easy and fascinating Hansik: A New Food Source for the Future of the Earth
way. The current global food system, which is dominated by today’s
meat-based diet and fast food, is neither sustainable nor healthy.
Hansik: A Contemporary Cuisine for the 21st Century As a result, campaigns for healthy food, such as the slow food and
We live in an era of new tastes. Sophisticated food culture has local food movements, are gaining traction around the world. These
become a symbol of an elite culture. The concept of searching movements embody sustainability, environmental preservation, and
for a high-class food culture is different from simply looking for healthiness; the food that points in that direction is Korean food.

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Based on vegetarian and fermented foods, hansik was conceived Interest in hansik is increasing in the U.S. and Europe as well, and
of in the spirit and philosophy of Korean naturalism, which more people from other countries are visiting Korea to experience
considered nature an integral part of us as human beings. In fact, Korean food. The world is welcoming a new era of hansik.
hansik embraces the food philosophy of the Koreans’ ancestors, who
thought of food as part of nature, not just things to consume, and A Hansik Guidebook for Koreans Dispatched Overseas
who only had plain, simple foods to consume. The natural quality This book was written for those who want to know more about
of hansik plays a role in healing the human mind and body. In hansik, and to promote it on a global level. While many agree that
this current age of materialism, hansik gives us a sense of spiritual hansik is delicious, healthy, and something that can be proudly
fulfillment, and the phytonutrients that are abundant in vegetables presented worldwide, these same people do not understand the
also prevent chronic diseases through their antioxidants. reasons why. This book serves as a guide to hansik. Part 1 introduces
the history, philosophy, characteristics, and table setting of hansik.
Opening an Era of Hansik from Korea, a Country Rich in Culture Part 2 highlights the diversity and possibilities that hansik provides,
There was a time when we used to ask people in other countries if describing the different types of hansik, K-food trends, and the
they knew famous Korean companies or “kimchi.” In the past, it was current food culture in Korea, as well as how hansik is being greeted
not easy to effectively promote Korean culture. However, Korea’s around the world. Part 3 clearly summarizes facts about Korean
status has been raised in recent years as Korean TV shows and alcoholic drinks that many people do not know about. Part 4
movies—and led by K-pop—have gained popularity internationally. contains answers to questions that foreigners are curious about.
The global rise of BTS and the world’s fascination of Korean films Stories about hansik are intermittently inserted in this part and
like Parasite are also a touchstone to prove that the era of Korean will add to readers’ interest in this subject. We hope this book will
culture has arrived. faithfully achieve its original purpose.
Along with this, hansik, part of the core of Korean culture, is
newly emerging, too. Currently, modern Korean restaurants are
gaining popularity in Korea as part of a new culture of dining out.

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Part 1 Exploring the Depth of Hansik
The History and Philosophy of Hansik the Unified Silla Kingdom (668–935), basic food items—such as
grain, fish, shellfish, meats, vegetables, fruit, sauces and pastes,
alcoholic drinks, sliced meats/fish, salt, oil, and honey—were
prepared, and during the Goryeo Dynasty (918–1392), a culture of
staples served with side dishes was fully established.1
The Joseon Dynasty an important period when the Korean
dietary tradition was finally refined and the nation’s food culture
blossomed. Later, when Korean ports were opened to foreign
countries, Western food culture was introduced to Korea; during the
Japanese colonial period, Koreans suffered from a poor diet; after the
Korean War (1950–1953) and modernization, today’s dietary culture
finally achieved.

Food involves the history and culture of the people who have What Is Hansik?
enjoyed the food throughout their lives. Koreans have retained their Korean food, or Korean cuisine, has become more widely known
own traditional culture despite all the changes that have taken place around the world and is now sometimes simply called “hansik.”
over the last 5,000 years. Even though Korea’s food culture has been Specifically, hansik refers to “food made using food ingredients
greatly influenced by the West in modern times, Koreans still enjoy used in Korea, or similar ingredients, and food made using Korea’s
eating food that contains the wisdom of their ancestors. traditional cooking methods or similar recipes, as well as making
use of tangible and intangible resources, activities and food culture
The Birth of Hansik related to that food.”2 In terms of “food culture,” this includes things
The history of Koreans’ dietary patterns can be traced back to the such as agricultural, livestock, and fishery products; beverages and
Paleolithic Age, when people settled on the Korean Peninsula. teas; a variety of processed foods; cooking and eating behaviors;
However, it was not until Koreans started farming in the late and even people’s tastes and nutrition. In addition, plates, areas in
Neolithic Age that cooked grain as a staple food with other side which you eat, stories, music, food-related decorations, designs, and
dishes began to be served. As agriculture developed, livestock was manners are indispensable elements of food culture.
raised and used as part of their dishes. At the same time, Koreans
1 Kang In-hee, A History of Korean Dietary Life , Samyeongsa, 1991
developed their fishing skills and started to grow vegetables. During 2 Article 2 (Definition)-1, Chapter 1 General Provisions, Korean Food Promotion Act

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The Basics of Hansik traces of this theory can still be found in Korean society.
Koreans usually eat rice as their staple food and have it with various For centuries, Koreans also put the principles of the Yin-Yang and
side dishes. Unlike Western dishes, both rice and side dishes are Five Elements Theory into practice through food. When cooking,
served on one table. Early on, setting one table for each person was the harmony of the five elements (sour, bitter, sweet, spicy, and salty
the norm. The staple food basically included cooked rice made tastes) was important, and the harmony of obangsaek, the Five
with rice alone, multi-grain rice (made with millet, barley, beans, and Cardinal Colors of Patterns (red, blue, yellow, white, and black), was
red beans), porridge, and noodles. Basic also taken into account.
side dishes included a soup or stew, This can be obviously seen by looking at Korean garnishes, the
kimchi, and sauces and pastes, finishing touch of many dishes. A garnish refers to a decoration that
as well as other various types is sprinkled or placed on top of a dish for the purpose of beautifully
of food made using meat, decorating it and stimulating the eater’s appetite, and was made
fish, shellfish, vegetables, and using the natural hues in food ingredients to express the Five
seaweed. Rice and side dishes Cardinal Colors.
become beautifully harmonized
on a Korean dining table, helping Medicinal Food: Food and Medicine Come from the Same Source
to form an organic relationship. Another important philosophy of hansik is the idea that food and

Hansik: Food Based on a Philosophy of Cosmology


Blue (Green)
In East Asia, cosmology based on Yin-Yang and Five Elements
Theory is an important philosophy that dates back more than two Tree,
Liver,
thousand years. Long ago, it was observed that the complementary Sourness

forces of yin and yang work together to create all kinds of things— Water, Fire,
Black Kidneys, Heart, Red
as well as the five basic elements—and that the powerful forces Saltiness Bitterness

of water, fire, wood, iron, and soil constantly circulate, achieving


change, generation, and ultimately extinction. The Yin-Yang and Metal, Earth,
Five Elements Theory was introduced to Korea during the Three White Lungs, Spleen, Yellow
Spiciness Sweetness
Kingdoms Period (57 BC to 668 AD) and influenced the way Koreans
thought right up until the end of the Joseon Dynasty. Even today, Yin-Yang Five Elements and Five Tastes

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Color Ingredients was also based on the use of seasonings. The Chinese characters 藥
Red jujubes, shredded red peppers, carrots, whole red peppers (medicine) and 念 (to think) were used to refer to seasonings, so many

Green water parsley, ginkgo nuts, leeks, zucchini, green peppers people used seasonings while thinking of medicine. Leeks, garlic,
Yellow egg yolk garnish, chrysanthemum, yuja (yuzu) peels ginger, Szechuan pepper, chili pepper, and cinnamon were also used

White egg white garnish, pine nuts, walnuts, chestnuts, sesame


as medicines to remove the smell of fat or any fishy smell.

Black manna lichens, shiitake mushrooms, meat, black sesame

medicine come from the same source (藥食同源). Traditionally,


Korean people thought that if the harmony of the body was not in
balance, people would become ill. That is why they tried to recover
a person’s physical harmony through food. Since they believed
that if they prepared food in a balanced manner—according to
the Yin-Yang and Five Elements Theory—it would become a type
of medicine. Thus, they served food made of various ingredients,
colors, and flavors.
The idea that food and medicine come from the same source

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Characteristics of Hansik

White Rice

The Healthiness of Hansik: The Ideal Ratio of Vegetables to Meats


An ideal meal for nutritional purposes, hansik has a ratio of
approximately 8 to 2 in terms of vegetables to meats. The healthiness
of hansik comes from this healthy ratio, which contributes not only
to nutrition and health, but also to making hansik more diverse. This
is because the beauty and unique tastes of Korean food come from
the harmonious balance of vegetarian and meat-based diets.

The Development of Grain-based Foods


Even from the Neolithic Age, Korea produced minor grains, and
in the late Neolithic Age, rice farming was established as a staple
food. However, rice was always scarce, so it was affluent people, such
as royalty and aristocrats, who were able to eat white rice, while
ordinary people usually ate mixed barley, millet, sorghum, Job’s tears,
red beans, proso millet, corn, potatoes, and sweet potatoes with rice. Snow White Rice Cake

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These grains were eaten in the form of not only cooked rice, but also Caring for the Eater
porridge, thin rice gruel, rice cakes, noodles, Korean sweets (han- Unlike Western eaters, who use a fork and knife at the table, Koreans
gwa), vinegar, alcoholic beverages, sauces and pastes, beverages, cut into bite-sized pieces of about 5 to 6 centimeters in advance
malt, and grain syrup. Of particular importance, rice cakes were while cooking so that it can be easily eaten with a spoon and
made of rice, which was considered precious, and glutinous rice, chopsticks. During the Joseon Dynasty, the recipes became more
eaten on special days, and were always on a family’s feast table. detailed and sophisticated because they made the ingredients smaller
in consideration of those who were eating this food, such as adults
The Taste of Cooked Rice that had long beards (under the influence of Confucian norms). When
What kind of utensils should we use to cook rice you chop or mince the ingredients, it comes with the advantage of
to achieve the best taste? According to a random
evaluation of the taste of rice among 400 people quicker seasoning, faster cooking and enhancing the taste.
selected by Korea’s National Science Museum, the
taste of cooked rice was found to be best in the
following order: rice cooked in a cast iron pot, Cast Iron Pot
The Difference between Gomtang and Seolleongtang
stone pot, pressure cooker, and electric cooker.
What is the difference between
gomtang and seolleong tang,
which both look so similar at first
Koreans’ Love of Soups glance? In short, seolleongtang
uses bone broth and gomtang uses
Koreans love soups so much that they have a name for diehard soup meat broth. Seolleongtang is made
from bones and the soup is milky-
lovers: “The Soup People.” As a result, various rice soups (cooked
white, while gomtang is made of
Seolleongtang Gomtang
rice in different soups) and foods such as seolleongtang and gomtang, meat, and the soup is clear.

which are boiled for a long time, have been developed over the years.
In addition to tang (soups) and stews, there are many other foods
cooked using water and steam, such as beef slices, jjim (dishes made Rites of Passage and Ritual Food
by slowly braising or steaming seasoned meat, seafood, or vegetables in a Koreans have long valued rituals due to the influence of
sauce), and jijim (another type of braised dish). According to literature Confucianism. Food was also an important part of these rites of
from the Joseon Dynasty, there are as many as 200 kinds of soups, passage, which were held at important turning points in life, from
90 kinds of jeongol, or stews, and 80 kinds of noodles, including rice birth to death. After a woman giving birth to a child, a table was set
cake soup and sujebi. 3
using rice and seaweed, and celebratory tables were set with rice
cakes and fruits on the 100th day and the 1st birthday of babies.
3 Dong-A Ilbo Korean Food Culture Research Team, Why Do We Mix, Wrap, and Put Food in the
Soup? , The Dong-A Ilbo, 2012 Traditional alcoholic beverages and traditional teas were served with

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Korean Fermented Food

Dolsang Jesasang
(a celebratory table for the 1st birthday of babies) (a table for ancestral rites)

snacks and refreshments, respectively, for gwanrye (men) and gyerye


(women), which were equal to something like today’s coming-of-age
ceremony. The ceremonies featuring all kinds of fancy food included
weddings and 60th birthday parties. At these parties, a large table
was prepared with a variety of dishes by piling up food, which In Korea, people make food with so much care that Koreans say
required a great deal of careful effort. they do not eat anything but eat “jeong”  (affection, compassion, and
Many Korean families still prepare a full table of food during sympathy). This is most clearly shown through fermented food.
ancestral rites. They set the table in accordance with household Fermented food is the basis of hansik. Kimchi is the best-known
recipes. Traditionally, they usually put cooked rice and soup on the fermented food from Korea, but there are other kinds of sauces—
table, together with alcoholic beverages, various fruits, vegetables, such as soy sauce, soybean paste, red chili paste, and vinegar—
jeon (a type of pancakes), jeok (food on skewers), poe (thinly sliced that every household has long prepared in the past, as well as salted
food), sauces and pastes, as well as rice cakes. They believed that an seafood, called jeotgal, and sikhae, which is made with fish and
ancestral ritual was for a meeting between the living and the spirits shellfish.
of the dead, and that it was a custom of respecting the dead. They  
expressed filial piety through a memorial service and paid their full Korean soul food: Kimchi
respects. The rites of passage and table setting have been simplified Kimchi is a Korean vegetable dish that is stored and fermented in a
compared to those in the past, but they have been adapted to suit unique way and is the pride of Korea. In 2013, “kimjang, making and
modern times. Still, they aim to promote a family’s health and sharing kimchi” was listed as one of UNESCO’s intangible cultural
harmony, bless one another, and celebrate events together. heritage items. Kimjang refers to the entire process of making

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kimchi for a long and harsh winter when people can taste local kimchi in each region. For example, the
fresh vegetables are scarce, and is also a Jeolla provinces are famous for gatkimchi (leaf mustard kimchi),
product of Korean community culture. godeulppaegikimchi (bitter lettuce kimchi), while Gaeseong is well-
Kimchi is an indispensable side dish known for bossamkimchi (kimchi wraps), and the Gyeongsang
for Koreans; for most Koreans, it is provinces are famous for kong-ipkimchi (bean leaf kimchi) buchu-
hard to imagine a meal without kimchi. kimchi (chive kimchi), and kkaennipkimchi (perilla leaf kimchi).
The basic Korean food table consists
of kimchi and rice, and no matter how Kimchi Made with Scientific Wisdom
luxurious a dinner is prepared, kimchi is Kimchi is a fermented, preserved food in which vegetables such
always served. as cabbage and radishes are salted and added with other ingredients,
such as shredded radishes, leaf mustard, water parsley, as well as
The History behind Kimchi and Its Many Types seasonings like chives, garlic, ginger, and chili powder. All of these
When it comes to the history of kimchi, records go back more
than 1,300 years. A long time ago, people ate turnips, eggplants,
and chives in a salted form, and then various kinds of vegetables
were applied for the salted kimchi. During the Joseon Dynasty,
chili peppers were introduced from abroad, becoming one of the
seasonings for kimchi, and the current form of kimchi was created.
To date, there are more than 200 kinds of kimchi known about.
Even today, new kinds of kimchi continue to emerge. There
are differences in tastes and ingredients in different regions, so

Baechukimchi Dongchimi Kkakdugi


(kimchi) (radish water kimchi) (diced radish kimchi)

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are mixed together with salted anchovies or salted small white
shrimp. As vegetable and animal materials are mixed and fermented,
nutrients become diverse and the food becomes more flavorful.
The key to making kimchi is chili peppers, which appears to be an
impressive wisdom. The capsaicin of chili pepper powder contains
spicy ingredients and is rich in vitamin C, which functions as an
antioxidant. Chili peppers also control microbial decay, preventing
food from going bad easily. This is the hidden feature that is clearly
distinct from vegetable pickling in China and Japan. For vegetable
pickles in those two countries, salt is used for the purpose of
preserving, so a lot of salt is used, resulting in a heavy salty taste.
However, since Korean kimchi uses chili pepper powder, the amount
of salt is relatively reduced. Therefore, even if kimchi is stored for a
long time, it does not make it sourer or saltier, or make the texture of
vegetables shrivel, compared to other pickles. Although it is pickled,
it is fresh and refreshing, and has a unique, delicious flavor. This is
why kimchi is called one of the greatest food inventions in the world.

Bean-based Korean Sauces and Pastes


Along with kimchi, one of the most important Korean foods is
soybean sauce and pastes. The beans originally came from what
is today’s Manchuria, the northernmost part of Korea in the past
(now Northeast China), and beans grow well even in that barren soil.
Korean doenjang (soybean paste), ganjang (soy sauce), gochuchang (red
chili paste), and cheonggukjang (fast-fermented bean paste) are savory There are four distinct seasons in Korea, and various microorganisms
and nutritious sauces. Korean food has developed vegetarian dishes work through seasonal changes to ferment soybeans. Fermented soy
using vegetables from the mountains and fields, with the lack of protein comes in the form of amino acids. It can be well digested and
protein being supplemented by sauces and pastes. is savor. Thus, Korea has the ideal climate for soy fermentation.

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to direct sunlight, and is closed at night to prevent moisture from
Beans
The most persuasive theory on the origin of the
entering the pot. In the early stages of maturing, people need to
Korean word for kong (bean) comes from the sound carefully work on it. For example, it is necessary to stir the sauces
of a bean falling on the floor. Beans are commonly
called “meat from the fields” because they contain and pastes from time to time to make them ripen in the best way
nutrients that are more similar to meat even though
possible. The outside of the pot should always be kept clean so that
they are a crop.
the germs do not increase.
Many of Korea’s most distinguished families have long sought to
The Characteristics of Sauce and Paste Fermentation: maintain the taste and quality of their sauces and pastes. The taste of
Mixed Fermentation food for each family depends on the taste of the sauces and pastes,
Cheese, a typical fermented food, is made by gathering protein which has also been the pride of many families for generations.
from milk and then maturing it through fungal fermentation. There is a secret to maintaining the taste of pastes and sauces even
Indonesian soybean-fermented food (tempe) also uses mold, which into the following year—and that is gyeopjang. Traditionally, people
is also a fungus. One of Japan’s traditional foods, nattō, makes use of kept a suitable amount of well-aged soy sauce and poured it into the
the nattō germ, just like bread and wine make use of yeast. These are newly made sauce the following year to maintain the balance and
all examples of mono-fermentation. aroma of the flavor of the existing soy sauce. That is gyeopjang.
However, Korean sauces and pastes are the products of a mixed
fermentation process that draws on all three microorganisms: mold, A Gift from the Sea: Salted and Fermented Foods
germs and yeast. In general, fermentation occurs in an anaerobic Important fermented foods in Korea include jeotgal and sikhae, both
state that blocks oxygen in moderation, with the sauce and paste of which are salted seafood. Jeotgal is made by mixing seafood such
fermentation being characterized by fermentation through full as fish, shellfish, or shrimp with salt from about 20 percent of the
exposure to nature. That is why it takes attentive care to ferment the seafood, sealing it in a container, and storing it at room temperature.
sauces and pastes in the best way possible. In the fermentation process, the fishy smell disappears, while the
amino acid fermentation gives off a savory taste, and a little juice is
Secrets of Tastes: Maturing in Earthenware and Gyeopjang generated. If you season it, it can become side dishes such as salted
Korean traditional sauces and pastes are stored in traditional pollack roe, salted clam meat, and salted shrimp. If it is fermented
earthenware called jangdok, which helps the sauces and pastes at room temperature, for 6 to 12 months, it is then ground, sieved,
mature as a source of “breathing container.” The lid of a jangdok is and boiled. That is when it becomes jeotguk, which can be stored for
opened during the day to remove numerous germs by exposing it many years.

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Sikhae is fermented fish (after removing the intestines) with salt
and grain. After two weeks of fermentation, the protein in the fish is
moderately decomposed, creating a savory flavor, and a fairly sour,
organic acid fermentation, offsetting the fishy taste. The bones of
the fish also become tender and edible, which is helpful for Korean
meals, which are prone to a lack of calcium. A well-known example
is gajami sikhae, or salted plaice.

Salted and fermented foods

Gajami Sikhae (salted plaice)

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Korean Table Settings and depending on the number of

Table Manners side dishes. In the past, the


12-cheop, or 12-dish bansang
was only erected in the royal
court. Rice, soup, kimchi, stew,
sauces and pastes, and braised
dishes were not included in
the number of dishes, but
the number was determined
according to the number 5-cheop Bansang

of raw vegetables, cooked


vegetables, grilled dishes, glazed dishes, pan-fried delicacies, pickled
and fermented vegetables, cold slices of meat, sliced raw fish, and
dried side dishes.
Korean people have long valued formality and courtesy when
setting a table. This tradition was established under the influence of Jangguksang (Noodle Table Setting)
Confucianism in the Joseon Dynasty based on filial piety and loyalty. This is a table prepared with noodles in clear broth and several
Historically, there was one table for each person. However, as the simple dishes. It is a table for simple lunch or a modest reception.
country entered the modern era after the late period of the Joseon The table can be set with warm noodles, cold noodles, rice cake
Dynasty, the whole family eating together around one table became soup, dumpling soup, nabakkimchi, japchae, cold slices of meat, or
the norm.
Japchae
Types of Table Settings Japchae refers to a mixture of vegetables and
vermicelli noodles (glass noodles). The Chinese
Bansang (Dining Table Setting) character 雜, or jap in Korean, means mixture, and
菜, or chae in Korean, means vegetables. Originally,
A bansang is the table setting for everyday meals, and is served
glass noodles were not included in the dish, but
with cooked rice (the staple food) and side dishes. It is referred to as today’s japchae was established in 1919 when a glass
noodle factory was founded in Sariwon, Hwanghae-
jinjisang honorifically, and was called surasang in the royal court. It do. Many Koreans started eating this dish from the 1930s.
is divided into tables with three, five, seven, nine or twelve dishes,

34 / HANSIK, Korean Food and Drinks Part 1 Exploring the Depth of Hansik / 35
are selected for this table setting.
Gyojasang (Large Dining Table Setting)
A large square table or round table is used to serve many people,
and is a table setting at a feast, get-together, or a happy occasion.
Food on the table includes noodles, soup, braised dishes, pan-fried
delicacies, cold slices of meat, skewers, sliced raw fish, gyeojachae
(an assorted cold plate with mustard sauce), sinseollo (royal hot pot),
rice cakes, fruits, traditional sweets, and non-alcoholic beverages.
Among different gyojasang, one that focuses on alcoholic beverages
Juansang Dagwasang
and side dishes is called geongyojasang; one that focuses on rice and
soup is called sikgyojasang; and when the two are combined it is
braised dishes. During the Joseon Dynasty, wheat was so precious called eolgyojasang.
that noodles in clear broth was a delicacy, which is why parents
would prepare jangguksang on a child’s birthday, hoping the child’s Gobaesang (Table of High Piles)
life would be just as long as the noodles. Arranged row by row, 15 to 20 special foods, including rice cakes,
Korean traditional sweets, sliced fish or meat, dried fruits, and fresh
Juansang (Liquor Table Setting) fruits are put on plates at 20 to 50 centimeters high. Both sides of the
This table is used to serve alcoholic beverages with side dishes that table are decorated with sanghwa (artificial flowers for a banquet table or
pair well with alcohol. For the most part, refined rice wine, unrefined
rice wine, soju, and home-brewed liquor were traditionally served,
while side dishes were basically pan-fried delicacies, hot pots, and
slices of fish or meat.

Dagwasang (Refreshment Table Setting)


This is a table set with tea, fruit, and Korean traditional sweets. In
addition to the usual snacks and meals, this is served for guests, and
is also served as snacks or desserts for a liquor table or noodle table.
Rice cakes, fruits, and non-alcoholic beverages that suit each season Gobaesang

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an offering to Buddha or the gods), and in front of the “hero” or “heroine” prepared.4
of the event (sexagenarian birthday party) is a small table of food served Men’s rice bowls are called
to appease one’s hunger before a formal banquet. Dignified and jubal and women’s rice bowls
luxurious, gobaesang is a special table setting to wish for longevity are called bari, and all of them
and send out blessings for those who receive the table at parties such have lids. A bowl for soup
as weddings, 60th birthdays, and 60th wedding anniversaries. is called tanggi. A bowl for
sungnyung (rice tea) or noodles
Traditional Tableware that Adds to the Style of Korean Food is called daejeop. Jochibo is a
Tableware is the final touch to food culture. No matter how delicious container for jjigae, or thicker
food is, it loses its value if it is not put in a proper vessel and with the stew that is the same shape as Bansanggi

appropriate tableware. Korean cuisine became known as “beautiful” jubal and is one size smaller
partly because of its unique tableware. Today, Goryeo celadon is than tanggi. Kimchi is served in a bowl, and most of the side dishes,
considered to be of the highest quality in the world, and Goryeo such as pan-fried delicacies, grilled food, vegetables, pickled and
celadon were actually used mostly as food vessels. Well-known fermented vegetables are served on small plates, and the number of
Korean tableware include porcelain made of clay and brassware. these small plates, or “cheop” represents the number of side dishes.
Generally, porcelain was classified as summer tableware and In addition, there are small bowls containing soy sauce, chili pepper
brassware was classified as winter tableware, so porcelain was used paste with vinegar, and honey, as well as a container called hap for
from Dano (the festival on the fifth day of the fifth month of the lunar rice cakes, yaksik (sweet rice with nuts and jujubes), and braised dishes.
calendar) to Chuseok (Korean Thanksgiving), while brassware was
used after Chuseok until the next year’s Dano. There were differences Traditional Storage Containers
in people’s position at this time, so monks mainly used wooden As fermented foods developed, containers for them also
tableware, while everyday people used crude bowls and containers developed. Onggi refers to two kinds of earthenware, some of which
called onggi (earthenware). were baked with or without glaze. Onggi, which stored sauces and
pastes—such as soybean paste, chili pepper paste, and soy sauce—
Bansanggi (A Set of Tableware) as well as kimchi, played an important role in how Koreans would
Bowls and containers used for daily table setting are called eat on a daily basis. The development of fermented foods in Korea
bansanggi. When setting up a table, tableware of the same material
4 Hwang Hye-seong, Han Bok-ryeo, Han Bok-jin, Jung Lana, Korean Traditional Food Written
is used, and a set of tableware with the same shape and patterns is by Three Generations , Gyomoonsa, 2010

38 / HANSIK, Korean Food and Drinks Part 1 Exploring the Depth of Hansik / 39
is partly due to the fact that Koreans knew the science behind onggi.
As Koreans now know, onggi does not let moisture pass through it,
but it lets air pass through it via fine holes, allowing the contents
to ferment well and allowing long-term preservation. In modern
times, kimchi refrigerators, a new type of kimchi storage unit that Spoons and chopsticks and embrodered case

incorporates the scientific principles of onggi, has replaced onggi.


Changes in Spoons and Chopsticks
The oldest spoons in Korea were unearthed from Bronze Age ruins. It was from
Spoons and Chopsticks
the Three Kingdoms Period that spoons and chopsticks were used at the same
One of the characteristics of Korean food culture is the use time because the Korean dining table was supposed to be a combination of broths
and broth-free food.
of spoons and chopsticks. Each individual has his or her own The shape of spoons also changed over the years. During the Goryeo Dynasty,
designated set of one spoon and a pair of chopsticks, while sets of when spoons were made in the shape of narrow and elongated ovals, with a
wide variety of handle shapes, such as one that was very bent or in the shape of
spoons and chopsticks for guests are prepared separately; a spoon is a swallow’s tail. However, as the head became round and deep during the Joseon
Dynasty, the handles were reduced to shapes similar to those we use today.
used to eat rice and soup, and chopsticks are used to eat side dishes. Spoons have changed since ancient times. In the early days, there were mainly
Koreans focuses on using spoons. In other countries, such as bronze spoons, but they were transformed into brass spoons, nickel spoons and
silver spoons, and wooden spoons and porcelain spoons were also used. Today,
Japan and China, where rice is a staple food like Korea, chopsticks many stainless steel spoons are used, and the smell of fermented food does not
permeate from them, though they are good for eating broths. They are also
are mainly used and spoons used as a secondary utensil, but spoons
hygienic because metal can be boiled and disinfected.
play a more important role for Koreans.

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Table Manners and Dining Etiquette Food Made with Care
Dinning etiquette refers to the rules to be followed at meals. In other
words, it serves a purpose to create a pleasant atmosphere when
The Joseon Dynasty was a Confucian society, and Confucianism basically
people gather, eat, drink, and talk. respected the elderly. Therefore, some foods were carefully made for older
Under the influence of Confucianism, Korean people were people, here are a few examples.

educated to observe the following manners as they put an emphasis


Sukkkakdugi
on respecting older people at meals.
Kkakdugi (diced radish kimchi) is
delicious but hard-to-chew compared to
other kinds of kimchi, so it is difficult
① Wait until someone older picks up their cutlery and then start
for the elderly to eat. Sukkakdugi is
eating. made of steamed radish, which softens
② Finish eating after the older people put down their spoons. the radish and makes chewing easier.

③ It is rude for anyone to leave the table before older people
finish their meal.
Seopsanjeok
For this dish, beef is finely minced and
④ When you drink at a meal with an older person, you turn to seasoned. In the past, when beef was
the left or to the side that the older person does not see. a rarity, it was an important source of
protein for many. Seopsanjeok is a food
made for the elderly so that they can
Basic Manners at the Table easily chew beef.
• Pick your food with a single stroke, without picking at it multiple times.
• Do not shake off or pick out the seasonings of a side dish.
• Do not hold the soup bowl to drink soup.
• Do not make sounds or noise while eating.
• When a certain dish is far away, ask someone who is close to that dish to hand it Tarakjuk
over, and then share it on your plate.
Tarakjuk (milk porridge) was historically made
• When you eat with other people, use a personal plate.
• Use tissue or small bowls for fish bones and do not throw them away on the
during the Joseon Dynasty to support the elderly.
table. It is easy to digest, which is good, especially for
• Do not stoop your head too low over food. older people, and it is also nutritious because
• Do not put a spoon with food on it into food you share with other people—such milk is added. Milk was a very valuable food
as stews. centuries ago, and it represented a way to respect
• No matter how hot rice or soup there is, do not blow on it. elderly people to make porridge with milk.
• Do not talk with food in your mouth.

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Part 2 A Wide Range of Hansik
44 / HANSIK, Korean Food and Drinks Part 2 A Wide Range of Hansik / 45
Different Types of Hansik evening snack at night.
Usually served for the king
and queen, surasang was set up
as a 12-dish table. This includes
white rice, red bean rice, two
different soups, braised dishes,
hot pot, kimchi, and several kinds
of sauces and pastes, as well as 12
side dishes that were all unique
from one another. In order to
avoid being hungry in the early
morning, for chojoban, foods
such as porridge or thin rice
The Essence of Korean Food Culture: Royal Cuisine gruel were served with dried side Surasang

Royal cuisine takes the highest level in any country’s food culture. dishes, and that included kimchi and thick stew. The lunch table was
In Korea, royal cuisine culture used to feature the country’s most simply prepared with porridge, clear soup, and refreshments, while
revered food. In Korean royal cuisine, eating was more than just a the night snack was served with noodles, yaksik (sweet rice with nuts
and jujubes), sikhye (sweet rice punch), or porridge.
5
simple “eating”; there were strict formalities, laws and order to be
observed. The banquet table was set on special occasions, such as a person’s
Royal table settings can largely be divided into daily dining table birthday and the 60th birthday of a member of the royal family, or
settings and banquet table settings. The on national occasions like the inauguration and wedding ceremony
dining table settings include surasang of the crown prince or the reception of envoys. A table for the king
(royal table), chojoban (early breakfast), was beautifully decorated by piling food up high. When civilians
natgeotsang (lunch), and a noodle table. prepared gobaesang (a table of high piles of food) at weddings or for
In the royal court, there were usually 60th birthdays, it was a way to imitate foods served at banquets in
five meals served a day: chojoban in the royal court. Dolsang was used to celebrate the first birthday of a
the early morning, surasang at 10 a.m.
and 5 p.m., natgeotsang for lunch, and an 5 Korean Food Foundation, Joseon Dynasty Royal Court Food Tables , 2014

46 / HANSIK, Korean Food and Drinks Part 2 A Wide Range of Hansik / 47


showed this Confucian tradition. Food from a noble home was
similar to royal cuisine, as the royal family and the civilian world
exchanged food through marriage networks with the royal family
during the Joseon Dynasty.
Within these noble families, jongga (the head family of a clan)
refers to the first son’s house that has been passed down from one
Banquet Table (gobeasang)
family to the oldest son, and the history of the jongga’s food boasts
prince or princess. Various rice cakes were made to be distributed to a long history that goes back through the entire family line. In fact,
different households. This was called “bongsong” (pack) and provided head families truly valued ancestral rites and hospitality. Ancestral
an opportunity for royal cuisine to communicate directly through rites were held dozens of times a year, and the continuous reception
food with noble families. of guests led to the development of food for those families.

Sinseollo How Did Royal Cuisine Set Foot in Common Households?


This dish used to be called yeolgujatang because it Royal cuisine from the Joseon Dynasty spread to noble families either through
delights the mouth, and is one of the most well-known marriage between the royal family and noble families or in the form of bongsong,
royal foods, containing many varieties of precious in which the royal family dispenses food to its officials. After the fall of the Joseon
ingredients and giving the soup a subtle yet unique taste. Dynasty in the early 20th century, chefs and court ladies for the royal dining
The name sinseollo appears in Joseon Yorihak (Korean table began work in common households and also got jobs at high-end Korean
Gastronomy), which was written by a man named restaurants to present royal cuisine.
Hong Seon-pyo. The person described in the book is a Myeongwolgwan, known as the first high-end Korean restaurant, was founded
nobleman named Jeong Hui-ryang, who lived during around 1909 by Anh Soon-hwan, a male chef who had worked for the royal
the reign of Yeonsangun, the 10th king of Joseon. Jeong returned from exile family. Myeongwolgwan was the first restaurant to introduce Korean royal cuisine
to Uiju due to his involvement in the Literary Purge of 1498, but he left home to the public and was a pioneer of high-end Korean cuisine. It also brought
saying that he would go deep into the mountains and become a monk because changes to the way people enjoyed the food. Traditional Korean food had a way
there would be a more severe literary purge in the future. After that, he changed of setting up a table for each individual, but after Myeongwolgwan’s cooking
his name to Yi Cheon-nyeon and lived like a Taoist hermit (sinseon in Korean) became popular, it was changed to gyojasang, a dining table for four people.
as he wandered around the mountains. He made a brazier and cooked various
vegetables using this receptacle. After he passed away, people called the brazier
(and the food cooked on it) sinseollo because it was used by sinseon.
The Best Vegetarian Food: Buddhist Temple Cuisine
Buddhist temple cuisine refers to the food monks eat with recipes
The Heritage of Hansik: The Food of Noble Families and Head Families and ingredients allowed in the Buddhist customs. Vegetarian diets
During the Joseon Dynasty, formalities and laws were valued under have recently begun to draw attention due to environmental and
the influence of Confucianism, and the food of noble families clearly health issues caused by meat-based diets, and many foreigners

48 / HANSIK, Korean Food and Drinks Part 2 A Wide Range of Hansik / 49


visit temples to spread throughout the country, making it difficult to find unique
experience and learn local foods. Some local foods that have been preserved in their
about Korean temple original form are as follows:
food, as the food has
gained international Food in Seoul
acclaim. Seoul was a place where various food ingredients were gathered
Buddhist temple food is based on vegetables—without meat— from all over the country. High-quality foods were made by
and that excludes five kinds of spices/additives (leeks, garlics, using such ingredients. The table setting is complicated based on
Japanese jacinth, chives, wild chives), and artificial flavors. Based on formalities with a large number of dishes, while a small quantity of
the fundamental spirit of Buddhism, simple ingredients are used to each food is set on the table.
create unique, natural flavors, so food is prepared every meal with a Most popular foods include sinseollo (royal hot pot), janggukbap
small number of side dishes. (beef and rice soup), seolleongtang (ox bone soup), yukgaejang (spicy
mushroom and beef soup), tteokguk (sliced rice cake soup), chu-eotang
Feasts of Local Food Developed in Different Regions (loach stew), tangpyeongchae (mung bean jelly salad), gukhwajeon
Local food is traditional food that (chrysanthemum pancakes), domijjim (steamed sea bream).
stems from every country, and
Hamgyeong
buk-do
is made with local ingredients, Tangpyeongchae

Pyeongan
Hangyeong
nam-do
spices, and unique recipes. The When King Yeongjo discussed the nation’s tangpyeong
buk-do  policy (policy for harmony and mediation), he
development of local food in Korea presented this mung bean jelly salad, a dish made
Pyeongan
by mixing many kinds of vegetables with mung
nam-do has a long history, and Heo Gyun,
mean jelly in the hope that different political sects
Hwanghae-do  
Gangwon-do
a scholar from the Joseon Dynasty, would be brought together. That is when people
began calling it tangpyeongchae.
Gyeonggi-do
introduced many famous local
Seoul
Chungcheong
buk-do
products and delicacies to the
Chungcheong

Food in Gyeonggi-do
Gyeongsang
nam-do
buk-do eight provinces of Joseon through
Jeollabuk-do
Gyeongsang his book Domundaejak. Local food in Gyeonggi-do (Province) is simple and plain, and
nam-do
Jeollanam-do
Now, with the development the seasonings are also mild, giving it a moderate taste. However,
of industry and transportation, Gaeseong, the capital of the Goryeo Dynasty, was famous for its
Jejudo Island
local specialties and foods have colorful and extravagant food. Joraengi-tteokguk and pyeonsu are still

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today famous. janggukbap (beef and rice soup), eoriguljeot (spicy salted oysters), gejeot
Most popular foods include Gaeseong bossamkimchi (wrapped (salted crab), sorajeot (salted turban), kongnamulgukbap (bean sprout
kimchi), Gaeseong gyeongdan (sweet rice balls), Gaeseong sundae and rice soup), cheonggukjang (quickly fermented soybeans), gejang
(blood sausage), Suwon cheoneotang (freshwater fish soup), Gwangju (marinated crab), a-ukguk (curled mallow soup), sangeojjim (braised
haejangguk (hangover soup), ogokbap (five grain rice), naeng kongguksu shark), hobakjuk (pumpkin porridge), hobakgoji (dried pumpkin).
(noodles in cold soybean soup), jonggalbijjim (braised short ribs),
seonjiguk, oiseon (stuffed cucumber), hobakseon (stuffed zucchini), and Cheonggukjang
hobakbeombeok (thick mixed-grain porridge with pumpkin). Cheonggukjang is a unique Korean food which
is said to have been made first in Goguryeo Era.
The food originated from people who lived in
Goguryeo and would ride horses into Manchuria.
Joraengi-tteokguk They boiled beans and carried them under the
The custom of making joraengi-tteokguk with rice saddle to eat frequently. The natural fermentation
cakes shaped like a gourd started in the Gaeseong of boiled beans by the body temperature of the horses resulted in the creation of
area. It is said that pressing a rice cake with a cheonggukjang, which is not easily spoiled and rich in nutrition.
bamboo knife symbolizes the act of strangling Yi
Seong-gye, the founder of the Joseon Dynasty.
When the Goryeo Dynasty, with Gaeseong
(Songdo) as its capital, collapsed because of Yi, it
was said that people wished to relieve the resentment through rice cakes. Food in Gyeongsang-do
In this region, people can easily get fresh fish and seaweed
from the East Sea and South Sea of Korea, as well as aromatic
Food in Chungcheong-do wild vegetables from mountainous areas. Dishes made of
In Chungcheong-do, table setting is not luxurious, and the various ingredients range from spicy to salty to savory. People in
food is cooked with common ingredients. For the most part, Gyeongsang-do enjoy noodles, with many people’s favorite being
Chungcheongnam-do in the South has had a lot of fishery items to kalguksu in which dough is mixed with raw bean powder and made
cook with in the past, but its northern part of the province, which into noodles using a knife, while they use anchovies and clams more
is landlocked, was not the case, so people enjoyed salted seafood at than beef for jangguksu (warm noodles).
best, but the fragrant vegetables and mushrooms collected from the Most popular foods include zucchini rice porridge, Busan
mountains and fields were excellent. After the year’s harvest, people jaecheopguk (freshwater marsh clam soup), Masan mideodeokjjim
enjoyed freshwater shrimp caught in rice paddies or embankments (braised styela clava), danpungkongip-jangajji (pickled bean leaves),
and savory mujijimi cooked with fresh radishes. Andong geonjinguksu (drained noodles with toppings), Daegu yukgaejang
Most popular foods include ungeohoe (sliced raw Korean anchovy), (spicy mushroom and beef soup), kkaejipguk (perilla seed soup), sliced

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raw mackerel, deep-fried baby octopus, pheasant dumplings, stir-fried
Bibimbap
locusts, Dongrae pajeon (green onion pancake), Andong sikhae (fermented There are three theories about the origins of bibimbap.
beverage), Tongyeong domjjim (steamed sea bream), pungjangeoguk The first was that it started with ritualistic customs, in
which descendants mixed rice, meat, fish, and vegetables
(conger eel soup). that had been offered on a table after ancestral rites. The
second is that it originated from the custom of mixing
rice with leftover side dishes to avoid the New Year with
leftovers on the last day of the year. The third is that
Kalguksu
during the rice planting or harvest season, neighbors took food ingredients to the
It is said that hot kalguksu was originally a summer fields and mixed them together to save time and helping each other work.
food. The wheat was so precious in the past that people
could only eat this noodle dish as a delicacy during the
harvest of wheat. Potatoes and zucchinis were added to
Food in Gangwon-do
kalguksu without fail because potatoes and zucchinis
were most delicious at that time of the year. In the highlands of Gangwon-do, glutinous corn, buckwheat
and potatoes are produced, while on the coast, squid, pollack and
seaweed are caught from the sea. Many fragrant wild vegetables
Food in Jeolla-do such as fatsia shoots and gomchwi, as well as honey, are produced in
Local food in Jeolla-do is characterized by the cooking of rich mountainous areas. Gangwon-do’s food is characterized by simple
seafood from the West Sea and South Sea, five grains from fertile and traditional recipes that fully preserve natural flavors.
plains, and various wild edible greens. In the breadbasket, rich, local Most popular foods include gamjamuk (potato jelly), memiljeonbyeong
aristocrats handed down recipes from generation to generation, (buckwheat crepe), olgaengimukjuk (melanian snail jelly porridge),
making Jeolla-do the region of arts and flavor. As there are many dotorimuk (acorn jelly), gamjabeombeok (thick mixed-grain porridge
kinds of side dishes, traditional Korean restaurants provide so many with potatoes), bangpungjuk (coastal hog fennel porridge), olgaengimuk
dishes that even plates are overlapped on the table. (melania snail jelly), jindallaejeon (azalea pancakes), a-ukjuk (curled mallow
Most popular foods include Jeonju Bibimbap, kongnamulgukbap porridge), kongnamuljapchae (bean sprout japchae), jinuarijangajji (pickled
(bean sprout and rice soup), yongbongtang (stew of luxury, boiled with and fermented Grateloupia filicina), miyeokssam (sea mustard wraps).
carps and chicken), boritguk (barley soup), samhap (skate, pork, and kimchi
combo), kkomangmuchim (cockle salad), kkaejuk (sesame seed porridge), Bean sprouts
kimchiipssam (kimchi wraps), kimchi neureumi (pan-fried skewers During the Joseon Dynasty, bean sprouts were considered
a valuable medicinal ingredient when it was fully grown
with kimchi), duruchigi (stir-fried pork), grilled eel, sliced raw ice fish, and then dried. It would then sometimes be exported
juksunchae (seasoned bamboo shoots), Jeonju cheoneotang (freshwater fish to China as a raw material for cheongsimhwan. It is
still used as a raw material for cheongsimhwan.
soup), torantang (taro soup), kkotgejang (marinated blue crab).

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Food on Jeju Island noodles), cheongpomuk (mung bean jelly), sungeohoebap (rice with
Jeju Island has a wide range of food that is separate from mainland sliced raw gray mullet), kimchiguk (kimchi soup), susujuk (sourghum
Korea. Although the recipes are simple and people do not use a lot of porridge), Haeju gyoban (Haeju-style bibimbap), nammaejuk (red bean
seasonings, the unique, natural fragrance of each ingredient remains paste noodle soup), Hwanghaedo gogijeon (pan-fried battered beef).
intact while eating dishes from Jeju Island. In the past, there was a
dearth of rice on the island, so mixed grains became a staple, with
pork and chicken often cooked as well. Due to the warm temperature
there, the production of tangerines and magnolia berries grew.
Most popular foods include bingtteok, jarihoe (sliced raw damselfish),
jarijeotgal (salted fish), oxdomjuk (porridge), jeonbokjuk (abalone porridge), Haeju Gyoban Kimchi Rice
kkwongmanong (wild chive dish), memiljeobegi (soup with pulled buckwheat
dough morsels), sliced raw pigling, totnamul (seasoned hijikia fusiforme), Food in Pyeongan-do
yanghamuchim (seasoned Japanese ginger), omegitteok (omegi rice cake). People in Pyeongan-do tended to be adventurous and practical
because the mountains were rugged and there had been many trade
exchanges with China in the past. Food in this region was generally
less salty. They rarely had spicy and/or salty food, but enjoyed plenty
of differently prepared food. Locals liked greasy meat because the
weather was cold, and they have many dishes using beans and mung

Jeonbokjuk Omegitteok
beans as there were many fields in the region.
Most popular foods include naengmyeon (cold noodles) ,
Food in Hwanghae-do eobokjaengban (hot pot with beef slices and vegetables), bindaetteok
Hwanghae-do is rich in grains, livestock, and fishery products,
so local people were well-off and generous. The food here has
traditionally been made in large quantities and does not show much
skill in cooking. Still, it has a subtle taste and style to it. The food is
neither salty nor bland, but simple and savory tastes are preferred.
Most popular foods include perilla leaves, kimchi rice, bugak (fried Eobokjaengban Noti
snacks), pumpkin kimchi, bijibap (okara rice), milnanghwa (wheat

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(mung bean pancakes), chicken porridge, fish porridge, dumpling sundae), gajamisikhae (fermented righteye flounders), dongtaesundae
soup, noti (glutinous rice cakes), biji (soy pulp). (pollock sundae), kongbuchim (bean pancakes), gamjamakgari mandu
(dumplings using potatoes), dorumukgui (grilled sailfin sandfish),
Food in Hamgyeong-do dubujang (fermented tofu paste), susujuk (sorghum porridge).
The East Sea and its steep mountains have long allowed people
here to enjoy many types of delicacies using great food ingredients. Enjoying Seasonal Food
Food is usually made in large portions, but does not demonstrate a In the past, seasonal changes were of paramount importance in
high level of cooking. The seasoning is not salty and is light, but it agricultural society. The seasons were divided into 24 seasonal
also uses strong spices such as garlic and red pepper. divisions according to the lunar calendar and used as the basis for
Most popular foods include Hamheung naengmyeon (Hamheung-style farming. The holidays were also directly related to farming that were
cold buckwheat noodles), garitguk (beef short rib soup), dwaejisundae (pork called “rural rites.” Inside of the holiday customs were wishes for
abundance, worship of gods and ancestors, exorcism, self-protection,
prevention of diseases, and the appreciation of arts. Nowadays,
holiday customs have also changed and been reduced.
Among seasonal festive foods, people today still enjoy eating rice

Hoenaengmyeon Dwaejisundae

Tofu
Although tofu was introduced to Korea during China’s
Yuan Dynasty (coinciding with the end of the Goryeo
Dynasty), there is proof that Koreans had a high ability
Ogokbap Samgyetang
to make tofu, and that these skills were interchangeably
transferred between Korea, China and Japan. In 1434,
the 16th year of King Sejong’s reign, Park Sin-saeng,
who visited the Ming Dynasty as an envoy on behalf of the Joseon kingdom,
delivered a letter from the Chinese emperor to King Sejong. The letter exclaimed:
“All the female cooks sent by the Joseon king make clean and delicious food,
especially tofu, among other things, all of which is delectable.” In addition, the
letter said, “Select ten more female cooks, and have them learn to make tofu
skillfully before sending them with the next envoy.”
Songpyeon Red bean porridge

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cake soup on lunar New Year’s Day; songpyeon on Chuseok; ogokbap, in a broader sense, it is used to mean
yaksik, and bureom on Daeboreum; samgyetang and yukgaejang traditional Korean sweets, including
during the hottest period of summer, and red bean porridge on jeonggwa, dasik, suksil, gwapyeon, and
Dongji. On New Year’s Day, families still gather to eat rice cake soup yeotgangjeong.
and perform ancestral rites. On Daeboreum (the 15th day of the first Recently, hangwa is often used
lunar month), people eat five-grain rice and nine vegetables to make to refer to Korean sweets. In fact,
up for the lack of nutrition and bite into bureom such as walnuts hangwa does not go bad easily, is rich
and peanuts to symbolically strengthen their teeth. In the summer in nutritional value, and has beautiful
heat, there is a custom called “fighting fire with fire,” in which people shapes and beautiful colors.
fight off the heat and take care of their bodies by eating hot food. On Gwajul is said to have been modeled
Chuseok, the family bond is strengthened by making songpyeon with after fruits from grain powder. That is
newly harvested rice. Dongji’s red bean porridge is prepared in order why it was also called jogwa (造菓), which
to spend the year safely, as the red color was traditionally believed to means “artificial fruit,” in Chinese
drive away evil spirits. characters. It is assumed that jogwa was made even before the
Goryeo Dynasty. As the Buddhist influence in the Goryeo Dynasty
Yaksik led to the abstinence of a meat-based diet and the development of
It is said that King Soji of the Silla Dynasty wanted to tea culture. During this time, different kinds of jogwa also developed
thank crows for saving his life from a conspiracy, and
made yaksik using the crow’s favorite fruit, jujubes, to rapidly. In the Joseon Dynasty, gwajul was one of the most favored
offer it on January 15 every year. Later, people used foods for ceremonial tables. By the 1900s, however, it began to fall
chestnuts, pine nuts, and jujubes to make food black-
colored like a crow’s feathers. out of favor, coinciding with the importation of sugar as well as the
introduction of the Western confectionary products. In modern
times, gwajul has become a holiday food, but in recent years,
Healthy Desserts, Korean Traditional Sweets and Non-alcoholic traditional Korean sweets are being appreciated once again because
Beverages they are carefully made using natural ingredients such as grains,
Gwajul: A Traditional Korean Sweet honey, sesame, pine nuts, and walnuts.
Today, when you say “dessert”, all Koreans think of western-
style crackers, cookies, and pies. However, Koreans have traditional The Korean Culture of Non-alcoholic Beverages Being Forgotten
sweets called gwajul. Gwajul means yumilgwa in a narrow sense, but Korean people have had a love for water over the centuries.

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Perhaps that is why they achieved various tea cultures over hundreds Hansik Now?
of years. Tea introduced through China’s Tang Dynasty led to
the culmination of a tea drinking culture under the influence of
Buddhism that flourished during the Goryeo Dynasty. However,
this practice of drinking tea declined in the Joseon Dynasty, when
Buddhism became shunned. Tea boiled with dried tea leaves or
ginseng was mainly used by the upper classes, while ordinary people
drank mostly sungnyung (rice tea) and water.
During the Joseon Dynasty, the drinking of tea declined, but
non-alcoholic beverages became more popular. These non-alcoholic
beverages included hwachae (punch), which used schisandra berry
juice (jindallae hwachae, pear hwachae, peach hwachae, borisudan,
changmyeon), hwachae with fruit juice (wild berry hwachae, cherry
hwachae) , hwachae with honeyed water (baesuk, yuja hwachae, The Korean Wave and Hansik: K-food
wonsobyeong, tteoksudan), and sikhye and sujeonggwa. According to a survey conducted in 2019 by the Korea Foundation
for International Culture Exchange (KOFICE) , K-pop was the
most common image when people think about Korea. K-pop, which
is at the center of the Korean Wave, is promoting Korea around
the world. Next to K-pop is hansik (12.2 percent)6, because Korean
food has long been part of the Korean Wave that promotes Korea.
Originally, the Korean Wave started as a new term referring to
Changmyeon Baesuk the popularity and enthusiasm for Korean pop culture—including
Korean singers’ songs, Korean dramas and movies—in East Asian
countries such as China, Taiwan, and Japan. The Korean Wave
has been raging in China since 1998, when the two-member male
dance group Clone landed in Taiwan. Since then, the Korean Wave

Borisudan Yujacha 6 Korean Foundation for International Cultural Exchange, 2020 Global Research , 2020

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world want to taste. Street foods such as tteokbokki (stir-fried rice
cakes), deep-fried food and ssiat hotteok (seed-stuffed pancakes), as
well as high-end Korean food at the Michelin Star level, are also
receiving favorable reviews. Recently, the unique spicy tastes using
Korean red chili paste has emerged as a new flavor to relieve stress
among people around the world.

has spread not only to mainland China and Hong Kong, but also to
Southeast Asia, including Vietnam, a country influenced by Chinese
commerce. Today, the Korean Wave has gone beyond the fame of
just a few Korean entertainers, and expanded to a larger audience
Tteokbokki Hot Chicken Flavor Ramen
that embraces pop music, music albums, dramas, movies, games,
food, clothes, and hairstyles.
At the center of this Korean Wave culture was the TV drama Royal Chefs of the Joseon Dynasty
Dae Jang Geum. This drama dealt with Korean food, especially Who was in charge of cooking in the Joseon Dynasty court? During a royal feast,
which was called jinyeon (or jinchan), professional male chefs (referred to as
royal cuisine, and this led to a boom in Korean cuisine—which was daeryeong suksu) made food. Most of the skilled masters stayed in the court for
relatively less known than Chinese food—around the world. generations and were favored by the kings.
A department of eunuchs was mainly responsible for organizing and serving
The Korean Wave continues to grow. BTS is creating a sensation all the dishes, rather than making the dishes themselves. The eunuchs who were
in charge of food-related tasks had high positions such as sangseon, sangon, and
while promoting Korean music and culture. Bong Joon-ho’s film
sangcha. There were two officials with the sangseon position (fourth-class official
Parasite stands at the center of international culture, and people are in the official Joseon Dynasty’s government system which largely consisted of 18
classes), and they were in charge of meals, while there was one sangon (fifth-class
watching Kingdom on Netflix around the world. official), who was in charge of alcoholic beverages. There was one sangcha (fifth-
Likewise, people have learned about hansik throughout the world class official), who was in charge of tea.
Cooking the regular dishes on surasang was mainly done by the court ladies
over this time. Following K-pop, hansik is now establishing itself as working in the kitchen. The court ladies in the kitchen were usually over 40 years
old, and they were already professional chefs with more than 30 years of cooking
“K-food.” Ever since a Korean restaurant in New York received their experience. The kitchen workers stayed in the court and usually prepared the
first Michelin star, Korean restaurants in Korea also have continued regular dining tables for the king and queen.

to receive high praise. Korean food is now what people around the

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Korean Food in the Media Korea more often visited fish markets.
More recently, many Korean food-themed programs have been Pyongyang naengmyeon was enjoyed
released on TV, as well as through the press and social media. by the Japanese-turned-Korean count
Korean food in the media is almost at its peak, including in the movie The Handmaiden and also
programs introducing delicious food, programs featuring food drew attention from people in other
competitions with people making Korean food for foreigners in countries as that specific food has a
Korea, documentaries introducing traditional Korean food, and significant meaning in the movie.
dramas and movies based on Korean food. Korean food in the media began to
Recently, Parasite won various awards around the world, including make a significant appearance in the
the Palme d'Or at the Cannes Film Festival, and the food called early 2000s. The public at home and
“ramdon”(jjapaguri) in the movie became popular. Korean ramen abroad began taking an interest in
and Korean food have drawn attention while people around the Korean food with the introduction of
world made ramdon in many ways, posted their photos on many colorful royal cuisine through the show
social media sites, along with other Korean food. Dae Jang Geum. The drama aroused
Even before that, Korean food was introduced through films, curiosity about hansik among foreigners
which served as an opportunity to promote Korean food to people and became the starting point for the
around the world. Thanks to the scene of a man who eats live Korean food craze beyond TV shows
octopus in Park Chan-wook’s movie Oldboy, foreigners visiting across Asia and Arab countries. Subsequently, various foods in
Korean Wave works such as the movie Le Grand Chef and stories
related to them attracted the interest of people around the world. In
Le Grand Chef, a cooking competition using food ingredients such
as birds, meat, and fish between the main characters Seong-chan and
Bong-ju drew attention, and in Le Grand Chef 2: Kimchi Battle, there
were many kinds of kimchi on display.
However, the show that really propelled the Korean Wave was
probably My Love from the Star. As the heroine was shown eating fried
chicken and beer with the line “Fried chicken and beer are perfect for
Ramdon (jjapaguri) a snowy day,” the fried chicken and beer craze hit China, along with

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the active overseas expansion of Korean fried chicken franchises.
Not limited to special Korean food such as royal cuisine, various
aspects of Korean food in everyday life are attracting attention
overseas along with the increased interest in Korean TV shows.
Today, Korean hansik is not just a simple “food,” but a cultural
content. In addition to introducing and promoting hansik through
TV shows and movies, hansik will also be important to bring the
world closer to Korea through more diverse cultural material.
Chicken Skewers Bungeoppang

Street Food Culture from around the World in Korea


Street food refers to ready-to-eat food and beverages cooked
and sold on the street. While in another country, you may have
experienced the country’s food culture through street food in
addition to going to restaurants. Famous examples of street food
include Khaosan Road in Thailand, the famous night market in
Taipei, Taiwan, the Wangfujing Street in Beijing, China, food
trucks meeting in big cities in the United States, and food made in
European flea markets or farmers’ markets. Waffles Takoyaki

After Korea’s liberation from Japanese colonial rule, people


sold mung bean pancakes, gimbap, rice cakes, soju, rice wine, and
gamju (sweet rice punch), with mung bean pancakes being the most Bindaetteok (mung bean pancakes)
common street food. Right after the liberation of Korea from the It is assumed that byeongjabyeong became binjatteok
over the years and eventually came to be known as
Japan’s colonial rule, sirutteok (steamed rice cakes), gomtang (beef bone bindaetteok. The origin of the mung bean pancake is that
soup), and seolleongtang (ox bone soup) stalls could be seen in and it was originally used as a base for oil-fried meat when
food was piled high on the table of sacrificial rites or a
around Cheonggyecheon Stream in Seoul. Since then, street food large dining table; its size was smaller than it is today.
There is a theory that the name changed and the size grew as it was changed to
has changed. food eaten by people without sufficient financial resources. There is also another
Street food in Korea is divided into two types: foreign food and theory that the name originated from “bindae” which means bed bugs, as the
bugs were common in certain streets of Seoul in the past.
domestic food. There are snacks such as gimbap, tteokbokki, and

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hotteok; foods based on traditional ingredients such as roasted sweet shows catch viewers’ attention with their unique talents and witty
potatoes, bungeoppang (fish-shaped bread with red bean filling), grilled talks. The food on the screen ranges from what is commonly
squid, and corn; and foods from other countries such as kebabs, available to high-end dishes. The actual act of eating is a primitive
takoyaki, and waffles. act, and it is not something that you want to show to others, but
In Korea, street food can be found everywhere. In Seoul, Sinchon, the eating show is now commercialized and serves as something
Ewha Womans University, and Hongdae have many food items to please people in these hard times.
targeting young people, such as gimbap, sushi, takoyaki, kebab, Cookbang—a different food show—focuses on cooking rather
sausages and potatoes, while Insa-dong has many traditional foods than eating. As broadcasting programs where famous chefs and
such as taraeyeot, hotteok, and hobakyeot, as the neighborhood entertainers cook with ingredients that are easily available to anyone
features streets of traditional culture. Then there is Noryangjin, receive favorable responses, a program titled Please Take Care of My
where various private institutes for national examinations and Refrigerator brings a fridge from a celebrity’s house to the studio and
students get together, offering many simple meals such as “cup rice,” the chef cooks with ingredients in the refrigerator.
toast, hamburgers, and sandwiches. When the young chefs on the cooking shows display their
brilliant skills to make wonderful dishes out of ordinary ingredients,
Mukbang and Cookbang Culture it seems like we are watching a wonderful performance. As a result,
Mukbang (eating shows) are now one of the most popular types of these young chefs are as popular as idols in the entertainment
shows in Korea. Mukbang, short for “eating broadcast,” originated industry. Recently, yoseknam, which means “a sexy guy who cooks
from Afreeca TV, a real-time online broadcasting service. The well,” has emerged as a newly coined word.
structure of Mukbang is simple. Broadcasting jockeys (who The reason why eating shows and cooking shows are gaining
broadcast on Afreeca TV) just enjoy chatting with viewers while popularity seems to be because they provide a lot of happiness to
eating food in front of the camera. The most popular Mukbang many people who are on a dite. In this generation, where obesity
is increasing and appearance is considered important, people who
cannot enjoy food at will because they are on a diet are happy with
eating and cooking shows.

The Heyday of Honbap and Honsul


Honbap refers to eating alone, which is now becoming a common
trend in Korean society. This is closely related to socio-historical

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changes, and also has something to do with cultural individualism,
structural individualization, and the emergence of single-person
households. The increase in single-person households contributed
to the rise in the so-called “honjok,” people who willingly eat alone,
watch movies alone, and travel alone. Already in Korean society, the
traditional meaning of family has been dissolved due to the falling
birth rate and the increase of double-income couples, as many
people live alone to study or get a job. Statistics Korea estimated that
as of 2015, the number of single-person households reached 980,000
in Seoul alone and 5 million nationwide. It is expected to increase by
about 30 percent by 2022.
The “Honbap Level” online classification chart recently received a
Convenience store food
great response from netizens. This is a kind of self-assessment chart
where you can see how far you have experienced honbap. It is said
that the higher the level goes, the higher the level of difficulty goes up to show the “stage of eating alone.” For example, level 1 refers
to eating alone at the convenience store; level 2, eating alone at a
cafeteria; level 3, eating alone at a fast food restaurant; level 8, eating
Level 1 Eating alone at a convenience store alone at a meat restaurant or a raw fish restaurant; level 9, drinking
Honbap Level
Level 2
Eating alone at a student cafeteria or alone at a bar. This clearly represents the peak of honbap, honjok, and
food court
Level 3 Eating alone at a fast food restaurant honsul.
Level 4 Eating alone at a snack bar As the aging population grows, eating alone is expected to
Eating alone at a casual restaurant, become a more common social activity. As such, the food culture
Level 5 like a Chinese restaurant or
naengmyeon restaurant in Korean society continues to change. In a way, it is becoming
Level 6 Eating alone at a famous restaurant
increasingly distant from traditional hansik. In the future, we should
Level 7 Eating alone at a family restaurant
also think about the sustainability of hansik according to the changes
Eating alone at a meat restaurant or
Level 8
a raw fish restaurant specializing in food culture.
Korean style sashimi

Level 9 Drinking alone at a bar

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Hansik around the World

Comparing Korean, Chinese, and Japanese Food Culture 7 Korean Table Setting

Korea, China, and Japan are often described as physically close


but mentally apart. While the three countries share similar food
cultures, they also have unique differences. So how, you might ask,
are the food cultures of Korea, China, and Japan both the same
and different?
First of all, let’s look at the differences in royal cuisine, which
represent the food culture of each country. Korean royal cuisine
is characterized by its emphasis on formalities and laws. The king Japanese Table Setting Chinese Table Setting
was served with surasang (a 12-dish table), while noblemen with
government posts or from high-ranking families were served with regime in the late 12th century, the Japanese emperor became a
a 9-dish table, and general noblemen a 7-dish table. However, no symbolic entity and the shogun, the head of the shogunate, and was
matter how rich the person was, one could not set a 12-dish table usually the de facto ruler of the country. The military government
like the king’s surasang. With the inauguration of the military was faithful to the asceticism that valued frugality, and this was
reflected in the cuisine, so the shogunate’s feasts did not feature
7 Kim Gyeong-eun, Table Culture of Korea, China, and Japan, Igaseo, 2012

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decadent food. It is said that the food on the shogun’s breakfast table between Chinese and Japanese
was simply rice, soup, two vegetables, braised fish, and grilled sand chopsticks. They are thin and
borers. Yet the emperor of China had four meals a day, with roughly flat, making it easy to pick up
60 side dishes and soups served at a time. The Qianlong Emperor in vegetables and kimchi, with
the Qing Dynasty (1644–1912), who was famous for his love of eating stainless steel chopsticks mainly
and drinking, would have 160 dishes—including 47 staple foods, 47 used to prevent fermented sauces
side dishes, 59 special dishes, and seven kinds of soups. or salted fish from permeating
The three countries also differed in table setting and tableware. them. Bibimbap

In Korea, rice and soup are prepared individually along with shared In Japan and China, people
side dishes, while in China, a plate containing one food is placed on pick up their bowls and eat
a round, rotating table called in the U.S. “Lazy Susan” and is eaten their food with chopsticks. In
on a personal plate. In Japan, individual tables are always served in Korea, it is not polite to hold
consideration of the harmony between the table, tray, and tableware. bowls, which is why they use
Chopsticks are used in all three countries, but they have different spoons when eating soup and
materials and shapes. Chinese chopsticks are long enough to pick up rice.
food on a circular table, while the ends are blunt to get food when The three countries also Fried rice

there is a lot of greasy and hot differ in food preferences.


food. They use wood or plastic While Koreans like mixed food
with low thermal conductivity. like bibimbap, Japanese people
Japanese chopsticks are mainly have a lot of rice with toppings,
made of wood, and chopsticks and Chinese people prefer fried
are short so that the eater can rice. Koreans especially like
have food with a bowl in their soup, which is an indispensable
hands, and there are many fish- accompaniment to rice. In
Rice with toppings
based foods, so the ends of the Japan, soup is like an appetizer
chopsticks are pointy to remove that is eaten before the main dish, while in China, it is eaten as a
fish bones easily. Korean post-dinner dish, something that is made in a form similar to a
Forms of chopsticks chopsticks are somewhere Western soup.

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Classification Korea China Japan dining out. According to the results, 54.6 percent of people knew
Four meals a day, Simple table setting Korean food, with a 93.2 percent satisfaction rating, while 76.9
Royal
12-dish dining table with 60 kinds of side under the influence
cuisine
dishes and soups of asceticism
percent usually ordered bibimbap, chicken and bulgogi. There were

Rice and soup are A dish is placed


still differences in the popularity of Korean food depending on the
Table prepared individually, on a round, rotating Individual tables region. It was highly recognized in Asian regions, compared with a
setting but side dishes are table and is eate are used
shared on the table n on a personal plate relatively low recognition in the Americas and Europe.
Thin and flat Long chopsticks with The most frequently eaten Korean dishes for those who have
Forms of Wooden chopsticks
chopsticks made of blunt ends made of
chopsticks
stainless steel wood or plastic
with pointy ends eaten Korean food were bibimbap (35.3%), fried chicken (26.5%),
bulgogi (25.9%), naengmyeon (18.2%), then japchae, jeongol, kimchi
Preferred
Bibimbap Fried rice Rice with toppings
food style stew, samgyeopsal, galbi, and tteokbokki. In North and Central
America, respondents showed a high preference for meat, as they
Preferred Korean Food by Country preferred bibimbap, fried chicken, bulgogi, and galbi, while in
Hansik is one of people’s favorite foods in other countries and is Europe, bibimbap, fried chicken, bulgogi and japchae were highly
becoming a trend that leads the expansion of food culture around favored. In China, people said they most liked samgyeopsal, fried
the world. Korean food is becoming more popular internationally, chicken and tteokbokki, apparently thanks to Korean dramas such
with people in different countries consuming more Korean food as My Love from the Star and the overall cultural Korean Wave. In
than before. In past surveys of foreigners, well-known Korean Southeast Asia, respondents answered that they often eat jeongol,
foods such as bulgogi, bibimbap, and kimchi were always ranked kimchi stew, and tteokbokki.
highest in the preferred Korean food list. Recently, however, there One of the important parts of the study was the suggestion made
have been changes in preferences for Korean food by country. through the results, which said that in order to further enhance the
The latest data showing this comes from the Korea Food status of hansik abroad, a policy of increasing familiarity with Korea
Promotion Institute’s survey of 2019 . The survey was conducted
8
is required. The development of Korean food dishes using local food
on a total of 8,000 local residents aged 20–59 (excluding overseas ingredients and firsthand experience programs linked to Korean
Koreans) living in 16 major cities outside Korea, with 500 people culture like K-pop will also work. Rather than aiming at small
in each city regarding their awareness and consumption of Korean service improvements, continuous efforts will be needed to meet
food, their use of Korean restaurants, and their general behavior of the expected value of locals by expanding professional consulting
support along with projects to reinforce the competitiveness of
8 Ministry of Agriculture, Food, and Rural Affairs & Korean Food Promotion Institute, 2019
Overseas Korean Food Consumer Survey , 2019 existing Korean restaurants.

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accordance with Islamic law.10
Samgyeopsal
It was people in Gaeseong, who were great merchants,
Halal certification is granted to food slaughtered and processed
that turned the fat of pork into part of the most under Islamic law and is also very important for exporting Korean
delicious lean meat. It is said that at first they fed pigs
with millet that contained much fiber, and when pigs food. Halal certification allows Muslims to eat imported Korean
grew to a certain size, they changed the food for pigs
food with confidence. In 2016, the year after Korea’s Hot Chicken
into less fiber fodder (grain, rice bran, oil cakes). By
doing this, they were able to produce samgyeopsal Flavor Ramen from Samyang Foods received halal certification, sales
(pork belly with thin layers of fat between lean meat).
of Samyang Foods in Malaysia jumped more than five times.
The world’s top three institutions that issue halal certificates
Hansik for Muslims are the Department of Islamic Development Malaysia  (JAKIM),
One of the things that should draw more attention in the globalization Indonesia’s Ulema Council (MUI), and the Islamic Religious Council
of hansik is the spread of Korean food aimed at Muslims. The of Singapore (MUIS). The on-site screening is said to be very strict
growth rate of the Muslim population is 18.7 percent, more than and to scrutinize everything from raw materials to factory facilities.
four times higher than the 4.3 percent increase in the world’s average This is why halal-certified products are understood to be hygienic
population, and the growth rate of the Muslim food market is 11.9 and of high quality.
percent, far higher than the world’s average of 3.2 percent. In 2019,
9
As such, the halal certificate can be used as a “reliable safe food”
the Muslim market accounted for 21 percent of the global food mark for non-Muslims as well, which could further expand the
market, which was worth $11.9 trillion, according to the Ministry of total consumer base. Korean food companies are now introducing
Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs of Korea. In Asia, where K-pop halal products that highlight the tastes of Korea. Shinsegae Food, for
and Korean dramas are popular, this is where 63 percent of the example, joined hands with the Malaysian food company Mamee
overseas Muslim market is located. to release two types of instant noodles (kimchi-flavored noodles and
Halal means “permissible or lawful” under Sharia Islamic law, spicy fried chicken-flavored noodles) and were greatly popular. CJ
while haram, the opposite, means “impermissible or unlawful.” CheilJedang is exporting halal-certified products to Malaysia and
Pork and related foods and by-products, liquor and food containing Singapore, and it has plans to expand its market to the Middle East
alcohol and classified as haram shall not be eaten, nor shall any food in the future.11
cooked in the facility where haram food is manufactured. Other The Korean food industry is making efforts to develop hansik for
foods can only be eaten if they are slaughtered and processed in 10 Korean Food Foundation, Halal Restaurant Certification Guide Book, 2016
11 Choi Min-young, “Receiving Halal Food Certifications through Very Strict Processes Over
and Over Again…Korean Food Is Becoming More Popular among Muslims,” The Kyunghyang
9 Thomson Reuters, Islamic Finance Development Report, 2018 Shinmun,  2018

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Muslims, who have an important position in the global food market. Food for Special Enjoyment
In the future, if the general public, as well as the food industry, raises
their awareness about Muslims and halal food, there will be more
Seolyameokjeok: Meat for a Snowy Night
opportunities to promote hansik for Muslims worldwide.
Korean meat recipes have long been developed in harmony with the special
enjoyment of nature and the arts. In Haedongjukji, a book of poetry written
in the Joseon Dynasty, it is said that “seolyameok has long been a specialty in
Gaeseong, and the recipe is to marinade beef ribs and heart with oil and pungent
herbs, then broil them. When the meat is half-cooked, put it in cold water
before broiling it with high heat. That way the meat becomes tender and tasty,
cattle milk, camels,
sheep, goats making it a great accompaniment to liquor on a snowy winter night.” The name
seolyamyeok, which means “a meat dish for a snowy night,” is also beautiful,
cattle, sheep, goats, fish, vegetables, fruit
camels, deer, elks,
especially as the meat tastes better when grilled over charcoal. Just as fire is very
chickens, ducks Halal important when cooking
Food rice, Koreans knew how
to grill meat using fire for
grain non-alcoholic food the best taste. In addition,
vegetables, fruit Koreans knew that even
the same food tasted
different depending on the
atmosphere.

Party in the Field , Seong Hyeop

pigs, dogs, carnivores, aquatic animals other than


dead animals fish, poisonous plants Jindallae Hwajeon (Azalea Pancake)
Koreans used to have a custom of going on hwaryu nori (a blossom tour) on
a sunny Samjinnal—the third day of the third lunar month—carrying food in
scenic mountains and fields. Confucian scholars, farmers, and women went
to scenic spots where they could enjoy all the
flowers. Women went to the mountains or
Haram blood and human
alcohol by-products fields together and picked azalea flower petals
Food
to make jindallae hwajeon, picked mugwort
to make mugwort rice cakes, and cooked all
kinds of seasoned vegetables by gathering
those vegetables on the spot. Hwajeon is a fried
animals that have not been reptiles, insects, glutinous rice cake made in a round shape, with
slaughtered in accordance with amphibians azalea petals on top so that the color of the flower
Zabihah procedures
could be preserved. It is then eaten with honey or
grain syrup. This is one way Koreans learned to
appreciate each season in a special way.

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Part 3 Learning about Korean Alcoholic Beverages
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The Origins of Korean Liquor and people might have become curious and afraid of intoxication, which

People’s Brewing Philosophy made them feel strange and dreamy after drinking alcohol. They
were awed by the vague imagination that there was a certain being in
nature that would control this phenomenon and tell human fortunes.
As a result, they hoped that their offspring and their families could
live in peace and abundance by dedicating the precious food of this
mysterious material to both ancestral gods and to the heavenly gods.
Alcoholic beverages are obviously liquid in the form of water,
but it was thought that there was a mixture of the nature of pure
water—one which was cold and went down smoothly, and the other,
which was warm and had a fire-like dynamic nature. This is also
in line with the idea of yin and yang, which is the basis of Eastern
philosophy. More than 80 percent of most alcoholic beverages were
Korean liquor embodies the meaning of communication and made from water, with the nature of yin, and less than 20 percent of
harmony, sharing and consideration. This can be seen from the them had a yang quality of fire, so alcoholic beverages were believed
fact that alcoholic beverages were first used as an offering to to be a perfect fusion of yin and yang, allowing people to enjoy a
communicate with gods. Later, they were used as an accompaniment more humane life through harmonious communication by drinking
for parents and the elderly, hospitality for guests, and as a means to these beverages.
quench people’s thirst and gain strength while farming. This Korean philosophy regarding alcoholic beverages shows that
The Korean word for “liquor” is pronounced “sul”, whose alcohol was not recognized only as a drink or a means to become
etymology is an interesting one. Koreans who discovered liquor intoxicated. That is why the philosophy is based on courtesy, which
learned that, when they add yeast and water to cooked rice, it does covers everything from the person who makes it and the way they
not need fire or heat to turn into alcohol. So they thought, “Wow, think, but to all the acts and procedures of drinking and serving
isn’t it wonderful to see ‘water (su in Korean)’ turning into ‘fire (bul liquor, as well as people’s behavior after drinking.
in Korean)’?” and called the alcohol “su-bul”, which turned into a
shortened term, “sul” after a passage of time.
In the past, alcohol was made with “mysterious scents” that were
not present in the raw materials of the beverage, such as rice, and

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The History and Types of Korean Dongmyeong), who became the founder of Goguryeo.

Alcoholic Beverages Although there is no record of the type, shape, and recipe
prepared by Haemosu, it seems that the skills to make alcoholic
beverages was quite advanced at the time. In the early days of
Goguryeo (28 AD), records included, “We defeated the leader of the
Liaodong Peninsula of the Han Dynasty by making delicious liquor,”
and the Chinese paid attention, as many of their citizens enjoyed
fermented food. Going on, records show “The Goguryeo Kingdom
is known as a nation that enjoys making alcoholic beverages.”
There is another record that says “Gokaju made by women from
Goguryeo is known as a great liquor around Jiangsu Province.”
In addition, according to Japan’s oldest record, Kojiki (“Records of
Ancient Matters”), “Inbeon, a man from
The History and Development Process of Korean Alcoholic the Baekje Kingdom, introduced the art
Beverages by Periods of making alcohol using malt, and the
Although it is difficult to accurately estimate the history of Korean emperor drank it and joyfully danced,
alcoholic beverages, the prevailing view is that alcoholic beverages and treated Inbeon as the god of alcoholic
may have been made naturally along with the formation of an ethnic beverages.” The brewing method at this
group. Wild molds and yeast were grown on grains and fruits with time is believed to have been made from
high sugar content, resulting in alcohol being produced, and those rice, and it can be seen that Baekje’s
Tavern, Kim Hong-do
who tasted it later made their own alcoholic beverages using malt. brewing techniques were first
The first time an alcoholic beverage was recorded in Korean introduced to Japan at the
history was “The Story of the National Foundation of Goguryeo” in time.
Go-samguksaki (The Old History of the Three Kingdoms). According At the end of the Goryeo
to the records, Haemosu, the son of the heavenly god, invited the Dynasty, distillation methods
three daughters of Habaek, the god of water, to entertain them, and were introduced from China’s
seduced Yuhwa, the eldest daughter who was about to go back home Yuan Dynasty, accelerating
drunk. They slept together and later she gave birth to Jumong (King the development of brewing Raising a Cup for a Drink, Shin Yun-bok

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technology and diversifying the types of alcoholic beverages. At the from different families. Since ancient times,
time, the brewing industry was centered around Buddhist temples, Korean people have used homemade
where manpower and financial resources were concentrated, and alcoholic beverages when conducting
records show that “In the 18th year of King Hyeonjong’s reign, there ancestral rites or other family events. In
were about 360 units of rice and grains that were consumed for each province, special ingredients were used
making liquor,” suggesting that the scale of brewing at temples was to make nuruk, and various kinds of liquor
enormous. were made from various ingredients from
In addition, as the government established public pubs and different regions, such as flowers, fruits, and A cookbook written by
Jang of Andong
lodging facilities to promote commerce and the circulation of medicinal herbs, which naturally led to the
money, the brewing trade became more active. During the Goryeo development of a variety of homebrewed liquors. One of the most
Dynasty, alcoholic beverages were largely classified as rice wine, important brewing techniques of this period was the “mixed liquor
unrefined rice wine, soju, and fruit wine. The types of alcoholic technique.” This method improved the storage quality by adding
beverages were then diversified and production skills were also soju, a distilled liquor, during the process of brewing alcoholic
improved by developing medicinal liquors with medicinal herbs as beverages. This is considered to be the oldest brewing technique
well as scented liquors with the fragrance of flowers. in the world, given that the time of its emergence was included in
In the early Joseon Dynasty, alcoholic beverages were mainly books like Unseojuchanbang of the late 1500s and Eumsik Dimibang
made by using glutinous rice rather than non-glutinous rice, and of around 1670.
the brewing technique was also changed from the danyang method In 1905, Japan completed the signing of the Japan-Korea Treaty
(the method of fermenting yeast called nuruk, water, and cooked rice) of 1905 (known as the Eulsa Treaty) by force, and began conducting
to the jungyang method (the method of making crude liquor and the destruction of Korean national culture in full swing. Traditional
dividing the raw materials for repeatedly brewing liquor several times).
Distilled spirits took root in the late Goryeo Dynasty, and during
the Joseon Dynasty they became widespread and were frequently
exported to Japan and China.
During the late Joseon Dynasty, a variety of high-quality brewed
liquors with local characteristics emerged. Traditional alcoholic
beverages have reached their peak, with the emergence of quality
liquors that were made with unique secret recipes handed down Dried Flowers and Herb Medicines

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alcoholic beverages were also a target. The Japanese enacted the
Liquor Tax Act in 1909 and promulgated a strengthened tax
ordinance in 1916, leading to the end of the remaining Korean
homebrewed alcoholic beverages and the culture related to them.

Types and Classifications of Korean Alcoholic Beverages


Cheongju Takju Soju
In Korea, cheongju (clear rice wine) and takju (unrefined rice wine)
were already distinguished during the Three Kingdoms Period, and in cheongju is mixed with water. If you extract only pure alcohol from
the late Goryeo Dynasty, the way soju was made was introduced from cheongju and takju obtained in this way using a distiller, it will
Mongolia, which is when its different types were diversified. During become soju, a clear liquor with high alcohol content.
the Joseon Dynasty, the culture of homebrewed alcoholic beverages Cheongju refers to “clear liquor” or “filtered liquor.” It is no
blossomed, which was largely divided into brewed grain liquors exaggeration to say that cheongju is the basis of Korean alcoholic
(made through fermentation after mixing nuruk and water with grain) beverages, and there were countless kinds of traditional cheongju
and distilled liquors, which distilled the brewed grain liquors. There throughout the Joseon Dynasty.
were also “scented liquors” and “medicinal liquors,” with flowers or Cheongju is characterized by its complex and diverse taste and
herb medicines added to the two types of alcoholic beverages, as well aroma. It shows a noticeable difference in taste and aroma depending
as “mixed liquors,” which are the combination of soju and medicines. on how the rice, the main ingredient, is treated, and how the mixing
This is a classification according to the form and nature of ratio of the ingredients is harmonized.
alcoholic beverages, and further elaboration may vary depending Takju refers to “turbid liquor” or “cloud liquor,” and is the opposite
on the purpose of production, production timing and recipes, of cheongju. Takju boasts the longest history and tradition in Korea.
production areas, the number of brewing procedures to attain each Takju is characterized by its savory and refreshing taste, so it is good
kind of liquor, usages, and the type of nuruk used. for quenching one’s thirst after a hard day’s work. However, you can
really taste five flavors—a little sweet, sour, bitter, astringent, and spicy.
Classification According to the Recipes of Alcoholic Beverages Makgeolli refers to an alcoholic beverage with a low alcohol
Most traditional Korean alcoholic beverages are fermented content relative to different takju. It got its name makgeolli, (“mak”
liquors, and it becomes cheongju (literally, “clear wine”) if it is means “wildy”) because people poured water into the ingredients and
fermented after filtering out the clear liquid from the ripe liquor, kneaded them a lot to increase the quantity of the liquor and better
while is when it becomes takju (“turbid wine”) if the residue of filter out substances in the ingredients—rice grains and malt.

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Soju means “boiled and distilled liquor.” People heat fermented Gamju refers to a type of alcoholic beverages made for people
liquor to extract evaporated alcohol through a distiller, and when who do not enjoy drinking and for the elderly or parents who do not
it cools they obtain high-purity soju. It is colorless and transparent, drink regularly. Gamju drinks have a low alcohol content, but the
almost like it is dew. sweetness remains, making the taste of the alcohol soft and fragrant.
In the past, Korean soju was distilled from ripe fermented Flavored liquors refer to alcoholic beverages with the added
liquor using traditional tools, giving it the name “distilled soju” or aromas of natural ingredients, such as flowers and fruits. They
“traditional soju.” highlight the wisdom of attracting nature’s providence, like seasonal
changes to alcoholic beverages. This type of liquor is related to the
Cheongju Takju Soju so-called “appreciation of nature.”
Type of Medicinal liquors refer to alcoholic beverages made by adding
Golden colored
alcoholic Milky, turbid liquor Transparent liquor
clear liquor
beverage medicinal herbs and other ingredients to usual alcoholic beverages

Complicated, various
Excellent savor High alcohol content, and then maturing them for a certain period. These are called yakju.
Features and sensation of but soft and good for
flavors and aromas
refreshment long-term storage The purpose in making this type of liquor was traditionally to treat
Liquor aged by Liquor that has been Liquor cooled after and prevent diseases and improve the health of the elderly in the
Production filtering only the clear filtered turbid by rubbing extracting only alcohol
method liquid from fermented rice grains, the raw by boiling and
family, while also to store precious medicinal ingredients.
ingredients material of alcohol distilling liquid
Liqueurs refer to alcoholic beverages prepared by adding extracts
of fruits, medicinal ingredients, fragrant herbs and seeds, or sugars,
Classification According to the Purpose of Production spices and pigments to soju. This type of alcoholic beverage can be
In the past, there were certain specific purposes and target people/ made in a short period of time and in many different varieties. This
events in making alcoholic beverages. Ingredients and recipes were allowed many households in Korea to enjoy a variety of liqueurs.
different depending on the purpose and usages of the alcoholic Mixed liquors are the most special alcoholic beverages in Korea.
beverages. This depended on whether the people to drink alcohol These are fermented liquors, but at the same time they have the
were ancestral spirits, seniors in the family, or invited guests, or if it storage quality of soju. Mixed liquor undergoes the same general
would be used for farming, a feast, sold for profit, or used as a gift. production process, but soju, a distilled spirit, is added to the
Fast-made liquors are made temporarily when a large quantity alcoholic beverage that is being fermented, and then is matured.
of alcoholic beverages has to be prepared quickly in the face of a
sudden situation such as a funeral in the family or when liquor
prepared for a special purpose is slow to ripen or goes too sour.

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T he Unique and Distinctive Nature ingredients to soju (distilled from cheongju and takju) to make yakju

of Korean Brewing Culture for medicinal use, or making jaejeju (liquors made by adding flavoring,
medicinal ingredients, and sugars) to help with people’s health and
treat diseases.

Various Processing Methods of Key Ingredients


The most distinctive classification method that can reveal the
identity of Korean alcoholic beverages is the processing methods
of rice, which is the main ingredient. Besides the variety of key
ingredients, Korean liquor has been processed in various ways to
differentiate its taste, aroma, and alcohol content even with one main
ingredient.
This can be a different from “blending,” which ferments grapes of
Since ancient times, Koreans have been making alcoholic beverages, different varieties together or mixes ripe wines in making Western
not just as favorite beverages, but as a means of taking medicine, and wines.
sometimes for storing medicinal ingredients. Porridge is known as the oldest base in making Korean alcoholic
Korean alcoholic beverages are usually made by mixing rice-based beverages. The liquor made from porridge is clear and bright in its
porridge, rice cakes, and steamed rice with nuruk and water. In the color, and the taste is soft and felt deeply. Above all, this method is
process, if chrysanthemum is added it becomes chrysanthemum economical because the yield is higher than other methods.
wine; if azalea flowers are added, it Mulsongpyeon is a type of rice cake that is boiled, and the method
becomes azalea wine; if pine buds to use this is much more
are added, it becomes pine bud wine; complicated and demanding
if lotus leaves are added, it becomes than other methods, such as
lotus leaf wine; and if ginseng is those using steamed rice or
added, it becomes ginseng wine. baekseolgi (steamed white rice
In addition, Korea has been cakes), but it gives the liquor
displaying its top brewing techniques, a subtle aroma, and a clearer,
Chrysanthemum Wine
such as adding various medicinal cleaner color. Porridge

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Gumeongtteok refers to rice cakes that are made with grain
powder. Grain powder is kneaded with hot water and shaped in the
form of doughnuts. The Korean name itself means “a rice cake with
a hole.” They are then placed in boiling water. A characteristic of any
liquor made with gumeongtteok is that it is so sweet and fragrant that
it is used to entertain important guests in noble families and wealthy
Beombeok Godubap
households. Depending on the ratio of ingredients, it has an aroma
that can only be distinguished through fruits, such as plums, apples, Beombeok is made by pouring boiling water into grain powder.
grapes, peaches, or certain flowers. Beombeok becomes in a state of thick glue or half-cooked porridge,
Gaetteok is made of grain powder and is steamed in an earthenware and is most commonly used as the base for high-end, fragrant liquor.
steamer. It is then pounded with a rice-cake mallet into injeolmi, which Godubap (jiebap, sulbap) is cooked by steaming grain in an
is next made into round rice cakes. The rice cakes are then steamed earthenware steamer, and it is used most frequently when making
once again. This all requires a great deal of work and care. The taste and traditional Korean liquor. Godubap is the only way to use the whole
aroma of alcoholic beverages made from gaetteok are by far the best. grain without dusting it. Compared to any other method, you can get
Injeolmi is a rice cake made by steaming and pounding glutinous clear and clean liquor that has the highest alcohol content. However, it
rice flour when it is hot, which is then shaped into small pieces. It is has the disadvantage of making the resulting liquor strong and coarse, as
chewy and can be digested very well, so everyone enjoys it. Making well as less savory or fragrant than those made through other methods.
alcoholic beverages using injeolmi is not a common method, but
it has the advantage of making liquor savory and well fermented. The Taste and Aroma of Korean Alcoholic Beverages
However, the process of making the liquor was complicated and As for the aroma of Korean alcoholic beverages, we often hear
difficult, so it was not generally carried out in many households. phrases such as “our traditional alcoholic beverages have a unique
Baekseolgi, or seolgi, is one of the most important rice cakes for scent of grain” or “one of the characteristics of traditional Korean
Koreans. The making of alcoholic beverages using baekseolgi began alcoholic beverages is the scent of grain.” Traditional Korean liquors
2,000 years ago. The main characteristic of liquor that is made from are made of rice, the staple food of Koreans, and that makes use of
baekseolgi is that it is very savory. The reason why this method is nuruk as a fermentation agent, which consists of grain. Nuruk is
widely used in making a variety of alcoholic beverages, including made by grinding wheat, barley, and rice, and mixing them with
quickly made liquors, is because this method can relieve the strong an appropriate amount of water, then placing the mix in a warm
and coarse taste of alcohol. place so that a proper mold can form. If you make the mistake of

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making nuruk and too much mold grows, the alcoholic beverage is alcoholic beverages, which had been handed down in the form of
likely to smell like nuruk. In the past, ordinary households used a homebrewed liquors, disappeared, and as the crackdown on illegal
lot of nuruk to make alcoholic beverages quickly and easily, so this liquors became more frequent, there was a growing trend of making
smell of nuruk came to be considered natural in traditional Korean quickly made liquors in simple ways. As a result, the unique aromas
liquors, and some people began to think of this “grainy scent” as the of Korean alcoholic beverages and their distinctive sweet and soft
smell of traditional alcoholic beverages. This raises the question of taste, as well as their deeply fermented taste, have disappeared, and
whether the grain scent is really all about traditional Korean liquors? sour and bitter low-quality liquors were often made and considered
The answer is definitely not. Rather, there are much more diverse traditional Korean alcoholic beverages.
and subtle scents of fruits and flowers than the grape or apple scent In fact, the unique taste of traditional Korean alcoholic beverages
of Western wine and the hop aroma of beer. is the combination of a savory taste, a deeply fermented taste, and
Compared to Western liquors, which emit aromas of the the “taste of tears.” The five flavors (sweet, sour, bitter, astringent, and
ingredients as they are, Korean traditional liquors give off different spicy) are well harmonized after a long period of fermentation, and
aromas depending on the skill of the brewer and the way the rice is the tears of a mother of a family whose labor and concerns were
treated, even though they are made of starchy rice and moldy nuruk, added to the completion of alcoholic beverages in the past make it
not fruits. Liquors with such aromas are called “flavored liquors,” difficult to express the taste in a single word.
and they have a variety of aromas, including the aromas of apple,
grape, strawberry, peach, watermelon, persimmon, plum, lotus The Unique Colors of Korean Traditional Alcoholic Beverages
flower, cinnamon, and cotton candy. To date, there has never been an evaluation of the unique colors of
The reason behind the disappearance of Korea’s unique alcoholic traditional Korean alcoholic beverages. However, the restoration
beverages with various aromas is that, among other things, people’s and reproduction of 850 kinds of traditional alcoholic beverages
impatience and the severance of traditional ways of making alcoholic recorded in Joseon Dynasty cookbooks,
beverages—which had lasted including Sangayokrok, which was
for thousands of years— published in the 1450s, shows that
stopped with the beginning Korean traditional liquors have different
of the Japanese colonial era colors than Chinese yellow wine
and lasted over a period of (huangjiu) and Japanese sake.
80 years. During this period, Among the unique colors of Korean
Nuruk hundre ds of t radit iona l alcoholic beverages that are represented Golden yellow

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by natural fermentation, gold is considered the best color. The The Meaning of Gayangju and
color of apple vinegar or pumpkin is also considered a great color, Korea’s Drinking Culture
light yellow is a mid-level color, while the color of light barley tea is
considered to be a mid-to-lower level color, while the color of dark
barley tea is considered a lower level color.
When talking about the colors of traditional Korean alcoholic
beverages, the premise is focused on fermented liquor. However,
what is important here is that even if you put in different additional
ingredients, such as flowers, leaves, and roots of herbs and the
bark of trees, it will return to the original color of fermented liquor
regardless of the color of the additional ingredients. The liquor also
has its own color even if you mix major ingredients like rice and
glutinous rice as well as other grains such as barley, millet, sorghum,
and proso millet in a certain ratio. Gayangju and a Reputable Family with Reputable Liquor
Of course, if the quantity of additional ingredients is equal to or In Korea, there used to be a unique culture called gayangju, one
greater than that of the main ingredient, the color from the additional which had been around for more than 600 years. Gayangju literally
ingredients is reflected in the liquor, but in other cases, the colors of means homebrewed liquor, a generic term for liquors that are
Korean alcoholic beverages are brighter than Chinese huangjiu, and made of grains such as rice, barley, millet, sorghum, and nuruk (a
has a unique color that is a darker golden tone than Japanese sake. natural fermentation agent), and water. Different flavors or medicinal
ingredients are added, and then fermented and matured.
The Host and Guest’s Etiquette In this culture of gayangju, there emerged a phrase meaning
In the past, people who were not public officials also treated many people at “There are delicious liquors in well-known families.” Well-known
home, so they regularly prepared alcoholic beverages to serve quests. According
to one report, two political opponents sat face to face, and the host had a glass of families referred to aristocrats, the wealthy, and influential families.
liquor first and then offered a glass to the guest, saying, “Have a drink, please.”
Then the guest said in return, “You must have been hungry waiting for me, so They had many rites of passage, including the worship of ancestors,
have a meal, please.” From this conversation originated the term: “The host and were especially frequented by guests. Entertaining guests with
recommends a drink to the guest and the guest recommends a meal to the host
(主酒客飯).” This kind of etiquette comes from the fact that Koreans enjoyed alcoholic beverages was recognized as a courtesy and a duty, and
drinking very much and that they were proud to serve their guests with alcoholic
beverages that they had carefully made using the secret methods of their families.
each family made their own rice wine, and also used it for family
events such as ancestral rites. In this way, brewing techniques

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improved, and the use of excellent raw materials enabled them to Gayangju with Flexible Production Methods
achieve top-quality products. In most countries, brewing is conducted only once for an alcoholic
beverage. But Korean alcohol is different. Basically, gayangju is
The Diversity of Gayangju and Differentiated Brewing Techniques fermented at a certain temperature and period of time by mixing
When classifying alcoholic beverages in most countries, they are nuruk, cooked rice, and water. How many times brewers repeat
largely divided into fermented and distilled liquors, with the types this process ends in different kinds – there is danyangju, literally
of alcohol being classified according to the main ingredients of meaning one-time process, whereas there are yiyangju (repeated
the liquors. Today, Korea is not an exception, but the traditional twice) and samyangju (repeated three times). One characteristic of
classification of alcoholic beverages before the introduction of the gayangju production is revealed through the process of having
Liquor Tax Act were clearly different. For example, various kinds of freedom to apply different production methods.
liquor were made depending on the method of processing rice and As the number of fermentation processes increases, the scent,
the way they mixed several kinds of rice for one kind of liquor, the taste, alcohol content, and color of alcoholic beverages became more
number of fermentation process, the type of nuruk, and the use of diverse. The fact that these techniques were systemized during the
additional ingredients. Joseon Dynasty based on the earlier history of the Goryeo Dynasty
Korean homebrewed liquor is most distinctive from Western gives proof of the historical and traditional nature of the Korean
liquors in that its main ingredients vary widely, while various clear gayangju production methods.
wines can be produced according to the processing methods of the In addition, free conversion and
main ingredients. Five grains, including rice and glutinous rice, transformation of alcoholic beverages
are used as the main ingredients, as the most abundantly produced in various ways according to usages
grains were used for producing and situations is also a characteristic
alcoholic beverages depending on that is found in Korean homebrewed
the conditions of different regions liquors.
in the past. According to ancient documents,
The most commonly us ed there were so-called “alcohol experts”
ingredients were rice, followed by in the government, as well as prestigious
barley and millet, though sorghum families during the Joseon Dynasty,
and proso millet were widely used and depending on overall conditions,
Main Ingredients in the northern part of the country. such as the purpose of the liquor or A lady is brewing liquor,
Korean traditional style

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the period which the liquor needed to be made, they applied different How Koreans Drink in Style
production/fermentation methods with flexibility.
For example, in the past a large quantity of liquor was needed—
like for bier carriers in a sudden funeral or farmers—when they
prepared quickly made liquor within two to three days. If there
was a wedding coming up, the alcoholic beverages for guests at the
wedding and party had to taste and smell better than anything else,
so they fermented the liquor for over three months. The drinks
prepared to serve the guests were diverse and had to have a good
taste and aroma at the same time, so a lot of effort was put into them,
and Koreans had a special ability to do this, such as guessing causes
if production went wrong, and even figuring out how the maker felt
at work, and taking measures accordingly.
Such flexibility originated from the wisdom of traditional Korean Korean alcoholic beverages originated from gayangju, or
dietary life based on people’s skills learned over the centuries, and homebrewed liquor. Starting with offerings for the gods, it was
their knowledge of various fermented foods such as kimchi, sauces, developed into a medicine for the elderly and the sick, a medium
and salted seafood. This allowed people to make changes and that reflects the affection of hospitality and sharing for guests. This is
adaptations when making alcoholic beverages. especially true for the poor, as alcoholic beverages became a source
of energy for farmers. And with drinks made to soothe cold and
Alcoholic Beverages for a Wedding hunger, each household came to regularly prepare them. In modern
There is a liquor that brewers made more carefully than anything else. It was the times, alcoholic beverages have become a favorite drink for many
alcoholic beverage used for their child’s wedding, which was called honsatsul or
honinsul. In addition to the need for a large quantity of alcoholic beverages at the people.
wedding, it had to be prepared from a month or two before to mature enough to
make it taste and smell great. Parents were worried that if the quality of the liquor
was poor and it tasted bad or made guests suffer from a hangover, their children Korean People’s Traditional View of Drinking
would be blamed after the wedding. That is why liquor for the wedding contains
parents’ affection for their children.
The way Koreans view drinking is even different from the Chinese
and Japanese. In the past, Koreans valued the formal drinking
procedure, rules, and posture of people, which can be ultimately
summarized as drinking etiquette. In other words, the purpose

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Hyang-eumjurye aimed at educating the commoners and younger
people through examples where a virtuous person in the town
invited the elderly and seniors to serve alcoholic beverages. Even
in modern times, children who come of age are taught to drink
alcoholic beverages and learn proper etiquette by drinking with their
elders, such as their grandfather or father.

Appreciation of Nature and Culture


Historically, Koreans had a drinking culture aimed at enjoying
nature in everyday life by attracting nature’s providence that was
led by seasonal changes directly related to alcoholic beverages. In
spring, azalea flowers were added to liquors to enjoy the aroma and
the mood of spring. In summer, alcoholic beverages were made
using flowers (such as roses, mints, and irises), leaves, and roots for
hot summer sensations, and in autumn, peels of fragrant fruits such
as yuja and tangerines were added to liquors for aroma to indicate
a deep autumn. Even in the cold of winter, appreciation of nature
continued. Japanese apricot blossoms with large snowflakes in the
winter were very fragrant and were often used to purify one’s mind
as they floated half-bloomed flowers on a glass of liquor.
While enjoying seasonal liquors and flavored liquors, interesting
of drinking was to “harmonize man’s original noble spirit and the stories were created, and poets and entertainers were able to
clean substance (alcoholic beverages) through an undisturbed mental sublimate the emotions and excitement of drinking into beautiful
attitude while drinking alcoholic beverages.” arts. As such, Korean drinking culture was based on the appreciation
In modern society, there have been many changes in people’s view of nature and the arts.
of drinking, but what is not different from the past is that you learn Koreans also recognized alcoholic beverages as “the best of all
manners through drinking. There is an example of this, which is medicines” and “the best medicine for longevity.” This statement
called hyang-eumjurye (community banquets). originated from Korean ancestors’ process of making liquor and its

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usages. In the usual production of alcoholic beverages, the highest Alcoholic Beverages Suitable for
priority was given to “accompaniment” to pray for the longevity and Korean Dinners
health of old parents and seniors. The accompaniment was made
very sweet so that people did not drink too much, and even those
who could not drink liquor were courteously served with one or two
glasses.
The accompaniment helps the digestion process for older people
and the elderly. As you get older, your digestion and metabolic
functions become weaker, and a couple of drinks at meals help
digestion and the absorption of food. It also helps your health by
improving blood circulation and increasing body temperature.
The important fact is that this accompaniment is the truest part
of Korean drinking culture. Usually, two or three drinks are good
for your health, but more than that may burden the drinker’s liver. For many centuries, in Koreans’ drinking life, it was considered
However, when you have the accompaniment to your meals, you important to drink one or two glasses of alcohol during meals—
will be satisfied with two to three glasses a day, which will help you it was called “accompaniment.” Rice, the staple food of Koreans,
stay healthy. This came from the great wisdom of our ancestors, and is more indigestible than bread, so accompaniment to help
a tradition that has existed for thousands of years. digestion was a wise choice for a healthy diet. In addition, the
use of various grains, including rice, as ingredients when making
The Flowers of Korean Drinking Culture: Juin and Daemo alcoholic beverages, was a reasonable choice that reflected the body
In the past, when gayangju culture developed, there were professional juin constitution of Koreans.
(alcohol masters) and daemo (female brewers). A juin was a government official
who was subjugated to a palace or a local government office, specializing in When inviting guests to serve Korean food, it is also a good
making alcoholic beverages, while daemo were women in charge of brewing
idea to add Korean alcoholic beverages as the accompaniment. For
professionally, working like a nanny or a woman cook in charge of making side
dishes for noble families. Although they had a challenging job with no socially entertaining guests, you can consider dividing alcoholic beverages into
respected status—not to mention wealth and fame—they had an excellent sense
in appraising traditional alcoholic beverages. It is said that they even guessed— aperitifs, alcoholic beverages during meals, and digestifs.
just by drinking the liquor—the brewer’s personality and how the brewer felt at
the time while making the liquor, as well as whether the brewer had carried out
the process properly. Aperitifs
Aperitifs are an alcoholic beverage people drink to stimulate their

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appetite, and usually they drink mild or soft liquor. The following Haechang in Haenam This has a fermentation period of 30 days,
which is longer when compared to regular makgeolli, and because it
liquors are recommended from Korea: does not use any sweeteners, it causes no hangover, and its taste is
soft. The deep taste and aroma of organic glutinous rice grown under
the sea breeze in Haenam remains active in the liquor, and its softness
Omegi Malgeun Sul in Jeju This is a high-end alcoholic beverage and deep taste are particularly favored by people.
with a strong yet soft and sweet taste featuring a natural fruity aroma. It Alcohol content: 12%, main ingredients: rice and glutinous rice from
is called omegisul because it is made of doughnut-shaped omegi rice Haenam, nuruk, ground water
cakes with glutinous millet, and it has a unique flavor native to Jeju.
Alcohol content: 16%; main ingredients: millet, newly harvested rice, nuruk, Igangju A high-quality liquor traditionally enjoyed by the royal court
natural bedrock water and upper class society, it is called Igangju because pear, ginger,
turmeric, and honey are added to traditional soju. The very sweet pears
Pungjeong-sagye Ha (夏) This is a specialty rice wine in Korea that from Iseo-myeon and turmeric were the gifts for the royal court, which
harmoniously combines the sweetness of rice wine with the bitter taste is why Igangju was made in Jeonju, a place close to Iseo-myeon. It is a
of distilled soju to create a unique flavor, reminiscent of European port wine. soft and aromatic liquor that goes well with freshly sliced raw fish, clear
Selected for the 2017 Korea-US Summit Dinner Banquet/ Alcohol content: soup, sinseollo, and pyeongang. This is a famous alcoholic beverage
18%; main ingredients: organic rice, glutinous rice, hyangongok that anyone can enjoy because its taste is neither heavy nor light.
[aromatic nuruk], purified water, soju for distillation Jeollabuk-do Intangible Cultural Property No. 6-2/ Alcohol content:
25%, main ingredients: rice from Jeonju, traditional nuruk, pear and
Jinyangju in Haenam With its bright golden color, you can feel the ginger, turmeric, honey, purified water
unique peach flavor and deep sweetness that spreads in your mouth
when you drink it cold. It truly provides the real taste of traditional rice Dugyeonju in Myeoncheon-myeon, Dangjin This is a famous
wine that the royal court and noble families enjoyed, so it is perfect to gahyangju made with azalea flowers blooming in the hills in spring, and
casually enjoy with family members. is one of the best-known gahyangju in Korea because of its excellent
Jeollanam-do Intangible Cultural Property No. 25/ Alcohol content: aroma. It is a liquor made with azaleas and glutinous rice from Amisan
15%, main ingredients: glutinous rice, nuruk, purified water Mountain and water from Ansaem Spring, and then is matured for
100 days. It became more famous as “the liquor of filial piety” due to
the story of someone “healing the illness of parents.” Simple foods
such as galbi or clear small octopus soup, high-protein meat or azalea
Alcoholic Beverages While Eating
pancakes are also well matched with this liquor, and is perfect to drink
The taste of food depends on the unique flavor of the ingredients, with fragrant wild greens or bitter vegetables.
National intangible cultural assets No. 86-2/ Alcohol content: 18%,
various spices, and recipes, and the alcoholic beverages served main ingredients: Korean glutinous rice, traditional nuruk, azalea
flowers, purified water
during the meals should not harm the flavor of the ingredients and
instead be able to supplement or enhance the taste of the dishes. Cheongmyeongju from the Jungwondang Family Business This is
a famous alcoholic beverage from the Joseon Dynasty that was made
in the middle of winter. People would begin drinking this when the ice
Jiranjigyo in Sunchang This is a liquor made from Sunchang’s orally
melted on the Hangang River. As a brewery with a long history located
transmitted secret way to make nuruk, which is so famous that it is
at the point where the Namhangang River and Dalcheon Stream join,
based on nuruk that was brought from a famous liquor salesman from
Cheongmyeongju became famous for its excellent water base more
Pyongyang in the past. Its great aroma is reminiscent of fragrances from
than anything else, and is characterized by its strong fruit scent. The
peaches, plums, and apricot flowers, and makes people want to go on
richness and sweetness of glutinous rice, and the unique freshness of
a long journey with their loved ones.
the liquor harmonizes with spicy soup or boiled pork.
Won the 2016 Korea Sool Contest/ Alcohol content: 15%, main
ingredients: organic rice and glutinous rice from Sunchang, traditional Chungcheongbuk-do Intangible Cultural Property No. 2/ Alcohol content:
nuruk, purified water 17%. main ingredients: Korean glutinous rice, nuruk, purified water

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Digestifs Stories Behind Your Drinks
Digestifs are an alcoholic beverage that is an excellent
accompaniment to dessert. It plays a role in doubling the sweetness
Knowing the Fortune of the Owner through
of the dessert or to promote digestion, while also refreshing one’s the Taste of Alcoholic Beverages
mouth after a meal. Therefore, an alcoholic beverage with light In the past, preparing alcoholic beverages was one of the
alcohol content and a clear form that balances sweet and sour tastes important duties for women who were in charge of household
chores, and people sometimes predicted the family’s fortune through the taste
is perfect after a meal. of alcoholic beverages. It was believed that liquors used in ancestral rites, which
were also used to accommodate guests and be served at meals, as well as other
Ehwaju This is a high-quality takju named after ihwagok (a type of drinks used in farming and daily life, would influence their lives depending on
nuruk made when pear blossoms bloom). It is a thick liquor in the the tastes of the liquors. As a result, various techniques and secret methods were
form of concentrated yoghurt, which was traditionally used as a health rooted in each family to make liquor.
food and snack for elderly parents from prestigious and wealthy
Some said, “It is possible to know the fortune of the owner through the taste
families for its sweet and sour taste, uniquely giving the pleasure of
eating with a spoon. It is good to enjoy as dessert with fruit.
of alcoholic beverages,” which meant there would be a punishment for past
wrongdoings, or signs of the coming future. Specifically, if the liquor used for
Alcohol content: 8%, main ingredients: rice, nuruk, purified water
ancestral rites went wrong, it was recognized as a punishment for insolence and
Cheonbihyang in Pyeongtaek This is the highest quality liquor, disrespect towards ancestors. And if the liquor for their children’s wedding was
which is uniquely fermented five times (oyangju), and is completed not tasty or not properly made, they thought the future of their children would be
after six months of fermentation and low temperature ripening. By miserable, so people did their best to make quality alcoholic beverages at home.
making the base liquor using a minimum amount of nuruk, which is As they believed that when liquor went sour, the family would fall into
only 4 percent of the main ingredient, and then going through four trouble, housewives would hide the fact, replace the sour liquor for new quickly
more fermentation processes, the smell of nuruk is minimized and made liquor, or get the best liquor in the neighborhood to pour into the pot.
a rich aroma with a deep, soft flavor is created. Sometimes they roasted red beans and put them in the pot of liquor in order to
Won the Grand Prize in the Yakju (Medicinal Wine) Category for two remove the sour taste. They also took it as a “crisis of one’s sex life” of a couple
times at the Korean Sool Competition in 2018 and 2020/ Alcohol if an alcoholic beverage was fermented too slowly. Based on a view to see the
content: 16%, main ingredients: rice from Pyeongtaek, traditional
nuruk, purified water combination of water and the pot to make the liquor as a sexual behavior, when
fermentation was not successful, the husband was sometimes regarded as having
Cheongjinju in Gapyeong This is an alcoholic beverage made an affair, and the wife pushed her husband to admit he had a concubine.
in the forests of Gapyeong, an area noted for its clean air. It is
characterized by a clear and clean color above all, especially the Kkomaengisul (Alcoholic Beverage for Kids)
soft first taste of the beverage, which has a little sweetness along
with the scent of fruit, a deep flavor, and a flower scent from In the past, even a bachelor over the age of 30 often suffered disrespect in
fermentation that takes place at a low temperature. traditional society by being treated as a child if he failed to have the coming-
Alcohol content: 16%, main ingredients: rice from Gapyeong,
of-age ceremony under the influence of Confucianism. In an agricultural
traditional nuruk, purified water society, the exchange of labor was directly related to production and economic
activities, but working-class men who were unable to have the official coming-
of-age ceremony due to poverty only received the wages of a child, not of adults,
no matter how hard they worked. Therefore, those men who failed to hold the
coming-of-age ceremony held a kind of ritual to notify others that they had
become adults by preparing at least low-quality liquor like makgeolli to serve
villagers. The liquor used at this time was called kkomaengisul, and the villagers
who drank the liquor treated the bachelor as an adult from that day.

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Part 4 Bonus for Your Korean Cuisine Knowledge
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Frequently Asked Questions by Q. Are there any desserts in Korea?

Foreigners A. K
 orea is a country where desserts have a long history. Tea culture
has developed since the Three Kingdoms Period, and traditional
Q A Korean sweets like dasik to enjoy with tea have also developed
accordingly. Historically, Korean sweets such as yakgwa and
gangjeong, as well as non-alcoholic beverages such as sikhye and
sujeonggwa, have been part of Korea’s dessert culture. Korean
traditional sweets were usually made in the form of fruit during
seasons when there was no fruit to be picked. They are delicious
and come in beautiful shapes.

Q. W
 hy do Koreans say “Did you eat?” when they greet you?
A. T
 here was not enough food in Korea until a few decades ago.
Q. Can I put my spoon in a stew I’m sharing with others? There were many mountains and few farmlands, so they had to
 o. Originally, the principle of hansik was to set one table for
A. N suffer from food shortages. That is why Koreans came to have
each person. However, since the end of the Joseon Dynasty, it has a habit of asking “Did you eat?” and it has continued until the
become common for many people to sit around one table and eat present day. Rice, the staple food, is symbolic to Koreans, and
meals together. Therefore, the culture of putting spoons together they have believed that people live with the power of rice (as a
in the shared stew was developed. Today, each person uses a meal). The reason why the greeting habits of Koreans has not
separate bowl/plate and that is the common way to share food— changed in this era of rising economic standards and abundant
by taking some of it, portion by portion, to an individual plate/ food is that people have adopted a culture of treating others with
bowl. consideration.

Q. W
 hy do Koreans pile up food at a feast or for ancestral rites? Q. What do Koreans usually eat for breakfast?
A. K
 oreans pile up food for celebrations, feasts, and ancestral rites for A. K
 oreans have usually eaten rice for breakfast in the past. Koreans
many reasons. It is to express respect for the person who receives were originally an agricultural people, so they had a hearty
the food, and also, to share the food that was piled high after the breakfast and went out to work. However, modern people do not
event. eat a big meal in the morning, but instead often have porridge or

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rice cakes. Young people are so busy at work and with their lives Q. Why do they use scissors in Korean restaurants?
that they often have something simple like toast and coffee, or just A. K
 orean restaurants use scissors to cut noodles, meat, and side
skip the meal altogether. dishes such as kimchi. Traditionally, Koreans did not do this, but
convenience has led to this usage in some restaurants. Scissors for
Q. What does home cooking look like? Do Koreans eat a lot of food are separately managed from other scissors for different uses
high-end food like Korean restaurants serve? at restaurants.
A. K
 oreans usually set out some dry side dishes, along with rice,
soup, and kimchi. They do not eat a variety of dishes like a high- Q. How is rice wine, soju, and makgeolli different from one
end Korean restaurant offers. Preparing a lot of food at home may another?
lead to wasting a lot of food. For breakfast, you can simply eat a A. K
 orean alcoholic beverages are made by using grains, including
grilled fish with rice and soup, and for dinner you can add a side rice, as a base. Makgeolli is a liquor made by fermenting rice and
dish using fish or meat to a stew. filtering it to be turbid. Rice wine is a clear liquor made through
distillation after the fermentation of rice. Soju such as Chamisul,
Q. How often do Koreans eat out? Do they usually eat dinner at which is popular these days, is not a distilled liquor but an
home? alcoholic beverage made from ethanol.
A. I n Korea, you can find a range of restaurants very easily. There
are restaurants within reach everywhere, so it is common to see Q. Do Koreans really like eating spicy food?
people eating out a lot. A. F
 ood from Seoul and North Korea can both feature clean and
It is tough to say exactly how often Koreans eat out and how bland tastes. Overall, however, there are many Korean foods that
often they eat dinner at home; there are simply some people who have a clean taste. Yet after the introduction of chili peppers to the
usually eat at home and some who do not. Family members try to Korean Peninsula in the mid-Joseon period (the 1590s), the spicy
get together at dinner, talk about the day and to promote family food gradually developed, while the spicy taste became stronger,
bonds, but it is hard for all the family members to be present, especially in the last 20 years. The passionate characteristic of
including dads with a lot of overtime work and children studying Koreans is sometimes attributed to the fact that they eat so much
for exams, to set aside dinner time together. spicy food. Spicy Korean foods such as red chili paste, tteokbokki,
buldak, spicy ramen, and bibimguksu are now popular all over
the world.

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Korean Culture Tips for (a community banquet) to teach younger people drinking manners.

Foreigners to Know In modern times, the strict drinking manners of the past are not
practiced as much, but Korean people still value the way to enjoy
drinking while being sober and courteous. Liquor is poured into
another’s glass, not into your own. Therefore, it is good to check
if the other person’s glass is empty and timely to serve the next
drink. In doing so, you do not fill up a glass before it is empty. This
is especially true when with people older than you. As a result, you
need to be careful when drinking. If possible, it is polite to turn
around and finish the glass, and you need to receive or pour liquor
with both hands.

Delivery Culture
Namul Culture In Korea, you can order almost any type of food. In the past,
For centuries, Korea has had an abundant amount of vegetables in Chinese food such as jajangmyeon was often ordered for delivery.
the mountains and fields throughout the peninsula, so people have Nowadays, people still have jajangmyeon delivered on their moving
continuously made use of them in new and innovative ways.
Namul (seasoned vegetables) usually refer to vegetable-based side
dishes, but they also refer to vegetables themselves. For example,
kongnamul (bean sprouts) is a good example of such a vegetable
name. But namul also refers to side dishes that are cooked with
vegetables. For example, cucumber namul refers to foods made
of cucumbers, and pumpkin namul refers to foods cooked with
pumpkins as the main ingredient.

Drinking Culture
In the past, Korean society valued courtesy between people, even
when drinking alcoholic beverages. An example is hyang-eumjurye Jajangmyeon

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day. This is because jajangmyeon is a simple and full meal, while
it is still time-consuming to prepare any food on the day you are
moving. Currently, the number of deliveries has increased due to
the emergence of delivery apps and the increase of single-person
households. Thus, people are ordering not only fried chicken, pizza,
braised pigs’ feet and bossam, but also sushi, sliced raw fish, rice
soup, and desserts, but bread and coffee as well.
In the past, Koreans were unique in that they created a “hangover
soup” called hyojonggaeng (a type of today’s haejangguk), something
that was delivered from Namhansanseong Fortress to Hanyang, even
during the Joseon Dynasty.12 Chimaek

A century ago, the most popular delivery food in Korea was


naengmyeon (cold noodles). In those days, deliverymen used bicycles the Star in 2014. This is because people in other countries learned
to carry food. These naengmyeon deliverymen would put the cold about chimaek through this drama. In fact, chimaek was a favorite of
noodle bowls on a wooden board, and put the broth separately in Cheon Song-yi, the main character of this show, and thanks to the
a kettle, support the wooden board with one hand, and deliver the explosive popularity of this show, chimaek became very popular in
cold noodles by acrobatically handling the bicycle with one hand. In China and other countries. Some Chinese people even had a huge
the summer of 1931, a tailor and his friend in Gwanhun-dong, Seoul chimaek party by the Hangang River in Seoul.
made a bet on whether a cold noodle deliveryman could deliver
80 bowls of cold noodles at a time; it turned out that he actually Somaek Culture
delivered 81 bowls. There is a unique liquor in Korea called somaek. This is a mixture of
diluted soju that Koreans drink most frequently and beer. Somaek is
Chimaek Culture similar to a cocktail in other countries, but this is unique in that it is
Chimaek is a combination of fried chicken and beer. It originated a mixture of a Korean liquor and a Western liquor, while a cocktail
from Koreans drinking cold beer with fried chicken in the past. usually mixes liquor with other ingredients. Soju has a high alcohol
Chimaek has become more famous since the drama My Love from content, but it becomes easier to drink quickly by mixing beer with a
lower alcohol content for somaek.
12 Choi Yeong-nyeon, Bamboo Stalks East of the Sea, 1925

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Kimchi Culture Spoon and Chopstick Culture
In Korea, kimchi is an indispensable side dish that is served at Koreans use spoons and chopsticks together. Spoons are used to
restaurants and in homes. Kimchi goes well with carbohydrate- eat rice and soup, while chopsticks are used to pick up side dishes.
oriented meals because its sour taste activates saliva secretion and Chopsticks require sensitive hand movements, so it actually helps
the lactobacillus helps digestive process. In addition, the salty and a person’s brain development. However, it is a bad habit to use a
spicy savory taste enables people to enjoy rice better. However, spoon and chopsticks at the same time. Originally, people did not
Koreans do not eat napa cabbage kimchi all year round. There are hold them together. Spoons and chopsticks each have their own
more than 200 kinds of traditional Korean kimchi, and recently individual uses, so you should use them accordingly, and you need
kimchi using Western vegetables—such as cabbage kimchi and to put them down when it is not the time to use them properly.
tomato kimchi—are also being made by some people. Traditionally,
kimchi has been made with vegetables such as napa cabbage, young Understanding Korean Food Names
radishes and/or cucumbers, in the spring and summer, while radish Names for Korean food are usually a word composed of “main
kimchi, or napa cabbage kimchi, has commonly been made in the ingredients + recipes.” For example, miyeokguk refers to guk (soup)
fall and winter. using the main ingredient miyeok (seaweed). Galbigui refers to gui
(grilled dish) with galbi (ribs).
Korean recipes include jjim (braised dishes), jorim (glazed dishes),
guk (soup), jjigae (stews), tang (soups), jeon (pan-fried delicacies), gui
(grilled dishes), and jeok (skewers). Jjim refers to food that is steamed or
braised with a little broth remaining. Jorim is a dish made by boiling
with almost no broth. Guk is a food that is boiled using lots of water
with other ingredients. Jjigae is like a stew, which has less broth and
more solid ingredients than guk, while tang is similar to guk and
jjigae, with more broth than jjigae and more solid ingredients than
guk.

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Common Korean Culinary Terms 죽 Juk (Porridge)
Juk (rice porridge) is cooked with five times more water compared
Excerted from 700 International Korean Menu Guide to bap. It serves as a main dish as well as an appetizer. Juk is also
popular as a meal for people recovering from illness.

[녹두죽(Nokdujuk , Mung Bean Porridge), 소고기버섯죽(Sogogibeoseotjuk , Beef


and Mushroom Porridge), 잣죽(Jatjuk , Pine Nut Porridge), 전복죽(Jeonbokjuk ,
Abalone Rice Porridge), 팥죽(Patjuk , Red Bean Porridge), 호박죽(Hobakjuk ,
Pumpkin Porridge)]

면 Myeon (Noodles)
Myeon (noodles) refers to dishes made with wheat or buckwheat
noodles, either mixed with sauce or boiled in broth.
한정식 Han-jeongsik (Korean Table d’hote) [막국수(Makguksu , Buckwheat Noodles), 물냉면(Mulnaengmyeon , Cold
Buckwheat Noodles), 비빔국수(Bibimguksu , Spicy Noodles), 비빔냉면
The traditional Hanjeongsik is a set meal with an array of side dishes
(Bibimnaengmyeon , Spicy Buckwheat Noodles), 잔치국수(Janchiguksu ,
served with rice and soup. For a more modern dining experience,
Banquet Noodles), 칼국수(Kalguksu , Noodle Soup), 콩국수(Kongguksu , Noodles
the meal is served in courses, including appetizers, rice as the main
in Cold Soybean Soup)]
dish, various side dishes, and dessert.

밥 Bap (Cooked Grains) 국・탕 Guk and Tang (Soup)

Bap refers to boiled grains, such as rice, barley, and beans. The grains Guk and tang refer to Korean soups, is made by boiling a wide
are rinsed, placed in a heavy pot, covered with water, and cooked variety of ingredients, including meat, fish, vegetables, and other
until the individual kernels absorb moisture without becoming too ingredients, in a large amount of water and adding seasoning. The
soft. solid ingredients are eaten together with the soup’s broth.

[김밥(Gimbap ), 김치볶음밥(Kimchibokkeumbap , Kimchi Fried Rice), 누룽 [갈비탕(Galbitang , Short Rib Soup), 곰탕(Gomtang , Beef Bone Soup), 된장국
지(Nurungji , Scorched Rice), 돌솥비빔밥(Dolsotbibimbap , Hot Stone Pot (Doenjangguk , Soybean Paste Soup), 떡국(Tteokguk , Sliced Rice Cake Soup),
Bibimbap), 비빔밥(Bibimbap), 순대국밥(Sundaegukbap , Blood Sausage and 만둣국(Mandutguk , Dumpling Soup), 미역국(Miyeokguk , Seaweed Soup), 삼
Rice Soup), 쌈밥(Ssambap , Leaf Wraps and Rice), 잡곡밥(Japgokbap , Steamed 계탕(Samgyetang , Ginseng Chicken Soup), 설렁탕(Seolleongtang , Ox Bone
Multigrain Rice), 콩나물밥(Kongnamulbap , Bean Sprout Rice)] Soup), 육개장(Yukgaejang , Spicy Beef Soup), 해물탕(Haemultang , Spicy
Seafood Stew)]

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찌개 Jjiggae (Stews) 조림 Jorim (Glazed Dishes)
Jjigae (stew) is made with various ingredients, such as meat, fish, Jorim refers to meat, fish, or vegetables seasoned and simmered in a
clams, tofu, and vegetables. It is thicker than soups (guk or tang) and sauce over a low flame until the sauce is reduced to a glaze.
is served boiling hot.
[갈치조림(Galchijorim , Braised Cutlassfish), 감자조림(Gamjajorim , Soy Sauce
[김치찌개(Kimchijjigae , Kimchi Stew), 된장찌개(Doenjangjjigae , Soybean Paste Braised Potatoes), 고등어조림(Godeungeojorim , Braised Mackerel), 두부조림
Stew), 부대찌개(Budaejjigae , Sausage Stew), 순두부찌개(Sundubujjigae , Soft (Dubujorim , Braised Tofu), 장조림(Jangjorim , Soy Sauce Braised Beef)]
Bean Curd Stew)]

볶음 Bokkeum (Stir-Fried Dishes)


전골 Jeongol (Hot Pots) Bokkeum refers to meat, seafood, or vegetables seasoned and quickly
Jeongol (hot pot) is a hot pot cooked with meat, vegetables, and stir-fried over a high flame.
seafood. Ingredients are placed in a skillet or jeongol pot and broth is
[궁중떡볶이(Gungjungtteokbokki , Royal Stir-fried Rice Cake), 낙지볶음
added and brought to a boil at the table. (Nakjibokkeum , Stir-fried Octopus), 떡볶이(Tteokbokki , Stir-fried Rice Cake),
[곱창전골(Gopchangjeongol , Beef Tripe Hot Pot), 국수전골(Guksujeongol , 오징어볶음(Ojingeobokkeum , Stir-fried Squid), 제육볶음( Jeyukbokkeum , Stir-
Noodle Hot Pot), 김치전골(Kimchijeongol , Kimchi Hot Pot), 두부전골 fried Pork)]
(Dubujeongol , Tofu Hot Pot), 만두전골(Mandujeongol , Dumpling Hot Pot), 버섯
전골(Beoseotjeongol , Mushroom Hot Pot), 불낙전골(Bullakjeongol , Bulgogi and
Octopus Hot Pot), 소고기전골(Sogogijeongol , Beef Hot Pot), 신선로(Sinseollo , 구이 Gui (Grilled Dishes)
Royal Hot Pot)] Gui refers to grilled meat, fish, or vegetables. Gui can involve direct
or indirect grilling. It also has diverse variations depending upon the
seasonings used, such as salt, gochu-jang, and soy sauce.
찜 Jjim (Braised Dishes)
[고등어구이(Godeungeogui , Grilled Mackerel), 곱창구이(Gopchanggui , Grilled
Jjim dishes are made by slowly braising or steaming seasoned meat,
Beef or Pork Tripe), 너비아니(Neobiani , Marinated Grilled Beef Slices), 닭갈
seafood, or vegetables in a sauce.
비(Dakgalbi , Spicy Sti-fried Chicken), 돼지갈비구이(Dwaejigalbigui , Grilled
[갈비찜(Galbijjim , Braised Short Ribs), 계란찜(Gyeranjjim , Steamed Eggs), 닭 Spareribs), 떡갈비(Tteokgalbi , Grilled Short Rib Patties), 불고기(Bulgogi), 삼겹살
볶음탕(Dakbokkeumtang , Braised Spicy Chicken), 수육(Suyuk , Boiled Beef or (Samgyeopsal , Grilled Pork Belly), 생선구이(Saengseongui , Grilled Fish), 소갈비
Pork Slices), 순대(Sundae , Korean Sausage), 족발(Jokbal , Pigs’Feet), 해물찜 구이(Sogalbigui , Grilled Beef Ribs), 장어구이(Jangeogui , Grilled Eel)]
(Haemuljjim , Braised Spicy Seafood)]

130 / HANSIK, Korean Food and Drinks Part 4 Bonus for Your Korean Cuisine Knowledge / 131
전 Jeon (Pan-Fried Delicacies) 장・장아찌 Jang and Jangajji (Sauces and Pickles)
Jeon refers to seafood, meat, or vegetables, thinly-sliced or chopped, Jang refers to traditional fermented condiments made with soybean,
seasoned, coated with flour, and pan-fried in egg batter. such as ganjang (soy sauce), doenjang (soybean paste), and gochujang
(red chili paste). Jangajji refers to vegetables pickled and fermented
[감자전(Gamjajeon , Potato Pancakes), 계란말이(Gyeranmari , Rolled Omelette),
김치전(Kimchijeon , Kimchi Pancake), 녹두전(Nokdujeon , Mung Bean Pancake),
for preservation.
부각(Bugak , Vegetable and Seaweed Chips), 빈대떡(Bindaetteok , Mung Bean [간장(Ganjang , Soy Sauce), 고추장(Gochujang , Red Chili Paste), 된장
Pancake), 생선전(Saengseonjeon , Panfried Fish Fillet), 해물파전(Haemulpajeon , (Doenjang , Soybean Paste), 양념게장(Yangnyeomgejang , Spicy Marinated
Seafood and Green Onion Pancake)] Crab), 장아찌(Jangajji , Pickled Vegetables)]

회 Hoe (Raw Dishes) 적・산적 Jeok and Sanjeok (Skewers and Grilled Skewers)

Fresh meat or fish, sliced and eaten raw or rare. Raw hoe includes Jeok refers to seasoned and cooked meat, vegetables, and seafood
fish hoe and meat hoe, and cooked hoe (suk hoe) includes Eochae. that have been alternately threaded on a skewer in a particular color
sequence. Sanjeok is grilled jeok made with beef, green onion, and
[광어회(Gwangeohoe , Sliced Raw Flatfish), 모둠회(Modumhoe , Assorted Sliced
tteok (rice cake).
Raw Fish), 생선회(Saengseonhoe , Sliced Raw Fish), 육회(Yukhoe , Beef Tartare),
홍어회무침(Hongeohoemuchim , Sliced Raw Skate Salad), 회무침(Hoemuchim , [송이산적(Songisanjeok , Pine Mushroom Skewers), 화양적(Hwayangjeok , Beef
Spicy Raw Fish Salad)] and Vegetable Skewers)]

김치 Kimchi (Fermented Vegetables) 젓갈 Jeotgal (Salted Seafood)


Kimchi is a uniquely Korean dish made by washing, draining, Jeotgal refers to salted and fermented meat, roe, or entrails of fish
salting, seasoning, and fermenting vegetables. and shellfish.

[겉절이(Geotjeori , Fresh Kimchi), 깍두기(Kkakdugi , Diced Radish Kimchi), [갈치젓(Galchijeot , Salted Cutlassfish), 꼴뚜기젓(Kkolttugijeot , Salted
나박김치(Nabakkimchi , Water Kimchi), 동치미(Dongchimi , Radish Water Beka Squid), 낙지젓(Nakjijeot , Salted Octopus), 멸치젓(Myeolchijeot ,
Kimchi), 배추김치(Baechukimchi , Kimchi), 백김치(Baekkimchi , White Kimchi), Salted Anchovies), 명란젓(Myeongnanjeot , Salted Pollack Roe), 명태식
보쌈김치(Bossamkimchi , Wrapped Kimchi), 열무김치(Yeolmukimchi , Young 해(Myeongtaesikhae , Salted and Fermented Pollack), 새우젓(Saeujeot ,
Summer Radish Kimchi), 오이소박이(Oisobagi , Cucumber Kimchi), 총각김치 Salted Shrimp), 어리굴젓(Eoriguljeot , Spicy Salted Oysters), 오징어젓
(Chonggakkimchi , Whole Radish Kimchi)] (Ojingeojeot , Salted Squid), 조개젓(Jogaejeot , Salted Clam Meat), 황석어젓
(Hwangseogeojeot , Salted Small Yellow Croaker)]

132 / HANSIK, Korean Food and Drinks Part 4 Bonus for Your Korean Cuisine Knowledge / 133
반찬 Banchan (Side Dish) 음청류 Eumcheongryu (Non-Alcoholic Beverages)
This is a genetic term for all side dishes, that are served along with Traditional Korean beverages and teas emphasize and enhance the
cooked rice. flavors and nutritional benefits of the natural ingredients used to
make them.
[구절판(Gujeolpan , Platter of Nine Delicacies), 김(Gim , Laver), 나물(Namul ,
Seasoned Vegetables), 잡채(Japchae , Stirfried Glass Noodles and Vegetables)] [구기자차(Gugijacha , Wolfberry Tea), 녹차(Nokcha , Green Tea), 매실차
(Maesilcha , Green Plum Tea), 미숫가루(Misutgaru , Roasted Grain Powder),
수정과(Sujeonggwa , Cinnamon Punch), 식혜(Sikhye , Sweet Rice Punch), 쌍
떡 Tteok (Rice Cake) 화차(Ssanghwacha , Medicinal Herb Tea), 오미자화채(Omijahwachae , Omija

Tteok refers to powdered grains that are steamed and molded into Punch), 유자차(Yujacha , Citrus Tea), 인삼차(Insamcha , Ginseng Tea)]

various shapes. It is usually made using regular or sweet rice.

[가래떡(Garaetteok, Rice Cake Stick), 감자떡(Gamjatteok , Potato Cake), 경단


(Gyeongdan , Sweet Rice Balls), 백설기(Baekseolgi , Snow White Rice Cake), 송
편(Songpyeon , Half-moon Rice Cake), 시루떡(Sirutteok , Steamed Rice Cake),
약식(Yaksik , Sweet Rice with Nuts and Jujube), 인절미(Injeolmi , Bean-powder-
coated Rice Cake), 찹쌀떡(Chapssaltteok , Sweet Rice Cake with Red Bean
Filling)]

한과 Hangwa (Korean Sweets)


Hangwa refers to traditional sweets made with powdered grains,
honey, malt, and sugar. It is categorized into various types, such as
gangjeong, yugwa, yumilgwa, dasik, and jeongwa, depending upon
the ingredients and recipe used.

[감말랭이(Gammallaengi , Dried Persimmon), 강정(Gangjeong , Sweet Rice


Puffs) 다식(Dasik , Tea Confectionery), 도라지정과(Dorajijeonggwa , Briased
Bellflower Root in Sweet Sauce), 매작과(Maejakgwa , Fried Twist), 산자(Sanja ,
Fried Rice Squares), 약과(Yakgwa, Honey Cookie)]

700 INTERNATIONAL
KOREAN MENU GUIDE

134 / HANSIK, Korean Food and Drinks


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136 / / 137
Source of Images

Korean Food Promotion Institute


Baechukimchi, Dongchimi, Kkakdugi, Surasang, Banquet Table (gobeasang),
Haeju Gyoban, Kimchi Rice, Eobokjaengban, Noti, Meokjeok, Jindallae Hwajeon,
Ehwaju, Kimchi, Sinseollo

Korean Studio Sool


Porridge, Beombeok, Godubap, Nuruk, Main Ingredients, A Scene of Brewing Wine,
Omegi Malgeun Sul in Jeju, Pungjeongsagye Ha (夏), Jinyangju in Haenam,
Jiranjigyo in Sunchang, Haechang in Haenam, Igangju, Dugyeonju in Myeoncheon-myeon,
Dangjin, Cheongmyeongju from the Jungwondang Family Business,
Cheonbihyang in Pyeongtaek, Cheongjinju in Gapyeong

Institute of Traditional Korea Food


Dolsang, Jesasang, Gobeasang

National Museum of Korea
Party in the Field (Seong Hyeop), Tavern (Kim Hong-do),
Raising a Cup for a Drink (Shin Yun-bok)

JTBC
Please Take Care of My Refrigerator

SBS
My Love from the Star, The Scene of Eating Chimaek

Pixabay
Cast Iron Pot
Chinese Table Setting

138 /
HANSIK, Korean Food and Drinks
Stories and Traditions

Date October 2020


Publisher
Address #601, aT Center, 27 Gangnam-daero, Seocho-gu, Republic of Korea
Telephone +82-2-6300-2084
Webpage www.hansik.or.kr
Editing & Design Hollym Corp., Publishers
Text Chung Hae-kyung (Hoseo University),
Park Rok-dam (Korea studio sool)
Food & Food Styling Kim Ji-young (GYU BAN)
Photographer Lee Kwa-yong, Lee Hyeon-sil (15 Studio)
English Translation Richard Harris

*Copyrights reserved for Korean Food Promotion Institute.

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