M AR

Jumpsuit, Fendi,
$3,750. Necklace,
Hermès. Ring,
Hotlips by Solange,
$290. For details,
see Shopping Guide.
D I O R . C O M - 8 0 0 .9 2 9. D I O R ( 3 4 67 )
D I O R . C O M - 8 0 0 .9 2 9. D I O R ( 3 4 67 )
 FENDI BOUTIQUES 888 291 0163 FEN D I .CO M

ROMA
ROMA
Editor’s Letter
DRESS, $5,900,
PUMPS, $1,850,
LOEWE.
More Is
More
Fox has gone from downtown darling to
designer muse, inspiring everyone from Glenn
Martens to Daniel Roseberry. Her rapid as-
cent is no surprise, given that she can pull off
bleached eyebrows, winged-out-to-there eye-
liner, and even the most left-field of lewks. Her
secret to success? “I think to get anywhere you
want in life, you have to be a little bit delusion-
al,” Fox tells Jessica Bennett on page 208. “I feel
like in my head, I’ve been famous my whole
life.” And she’s refreshingly honest about being
fed up with men and dating—and committed
to taking control of her own narrative, famous
exes be damned.
Jonathan Anderson is one of those rare
designers who know what people want before
they even know they want it. Whether it’s a
“balloon” heel or a massive artificial bloom, his
clothes, says his friend Hari Nef, “anticipate an
appetite.” As Anderson prepares to celebrate
a decade at the helm of Loewe, where he’s
unveiled one dazzling, paradigm-shattering
collection after another, we take a look back at
his tenure at the house on page 152. (Anderson
and his model muse Jeanne Cadieu, seen at left,
posed for César Segarra’s camera for the piece.)
Anderson tells Fashion Features Director
Véronique Hyland that with the world spin-
ning so fast, “continuity is becoming more and
more important.… There is nothing more ex-
citing than the low profile–ness of something.”
After splitting from the scandal-ridden
Armie Hammer, Elizabeth Chambers is ready
for her next chapter. On page 118, she tells ELLE
.com Senior Editor/Writer Rose Minutaglio
that she’s starting from scratch, no pun in-
tended: She’s channeling her energy into her
bakery business and TV career. Elsewhere in
our pages, singer Kali Uchis talks about falling
pring 2023 was one of the most boundary-pushing seasons in recent memory, and in love and her new album Red Moon in Venus;
the spring fashion issue you hold in your hands is a celebration of the inventive- multidisciplinary artist Dyani White Hawk
S ness we saw on runways around the world. To bring the magic of the season onto
the page, we called on a host of top-tier talents: Mario Sorrenti photographs our
cover star Gigi Hadid; Ezra Petronio and Anastasia Barbieri take us on a trip to
brings a Native American perspective onto a
world stage; and none other than Apple Music
Super Bowl LVII Halftime Show headliner,
’70s Paris; Brigitte Niedermair and Karen Langley rev things up with the moto- new mom, and beauty mogul Rihanna spills
cross trend; Christian MacDonald and ELLE Fashion Director Alex White showcase the new “soft about how motherhood has changed her ap-
power” dressing against the rainy backdrop of New York City streets; Sharif Hamza and White proach to beauty—and how she maintains that
bring a punk twist to the season’s lingerie motifs; and Richie Shazam and the legendary Patti Wilson signature glow.
team up to show us Julia Fox like we’ve never seen her before.
Hadid is going from supermodel to supermogul with her hit cashmere line Guest In Residence
and a hosting gig on Netflix’s Next in Fashion. Despite her ever-growing CV, Editor Adrienne Gaffney
finds, Hadid is a sweet, genuine, down-to-earth young woman who says that family comes first
C ÉSA R SEGA RR A

and that becoming a mom to daughter Khai “shifted my life.” Something that’s helped her navigate
the world of paparazzi and mean tweets is “realizing that nothing really matters. Serena Williams
once told me, ‘Nothing stays in the press longer than three weeks.’ You can feel like your life is @ N I N AGA RC I A N I N AGA RC I A
ending, [but] if it’s a mistake, then it will pass. I think it’s about not taking yourself that seriously.’” @ N I N AGA RC I AO F F I C I A L

48
Spring Summer 2023
Photographed by David Sims
t, New York
loewe.com
Nina’s Edit 1
3

Bedtime 5

STORY 11
1. Matchbox, Glaze, $295, glaze
.studio. 2. Earrings, Silvia
Furmanovich, Bergdorf Goodman,
NYC. 3. Shirt, Bally, $1,955,
bally.com. 4. Mountain Pine Bath
oil, Susanne Kaufmann, $75,
susannekaufmann.com. 5. Shorts,
Etro, etro.com. 6. Sleep mask, Slip,
$50, slip.com. 7. Frederic Mechiche
lounge chair, Barracuda Interiors,
$3,500, barracuda-interiors.com.
8. Clock, Seaman Schepps, $495,
seamanschepps.com. 9. State
of Emotions Eyeshadow Palette,
Byredo, $75, byredo.com.
10. Sandal, Hermès, $1,025,
hermes.com. 11. Throw blanket,
Saved NY, $1,475, saved-ny.com.

C OURTESY O F T HE D ESIGNE RS A ND BRA N DS; FOR DE TA ILS, SEE SHOP P IN G G UI D E.

9
Inspired by Rhuigi 8

ensembles for his Bally

chief Nina Garcia
10

boudoir essentials.
 March Volume XXXVIII Number 6

DRESS, ANKLE BOOTS,

LOUIS VUITTON.

48 EDITOR’S LETTER 86 DRESSING 98 SNAKE CHARMER 109 RUNWAY TO Living

FOR REAL LIFE Bulgari celebrates
Beauty ELLEWAY: FACE
62 NINA’S EDIT Kathleen Hou 104 SPRING THE RAINBOW 114 FLIGHT OF FANCY
the 75th anniversary
spotlights the stealth of the beloved HAS SPRUNG Aura-inspired Designer Batsheva Hay
78 NEW ARRIVALS
brands reshaping Serpenti line. ELLE editors beauty looks add finds the whimsical
The latest extras a new glow. By elegance in her corner
have a bit of polish. wardrobe essentials. reveal their favorite
99 WORLDLY GOODS products. Margaux Anbouba of the Upper West Side.
88 BASIC INSTINCT Jewelry designer
110 RIHANNA IS By Naomi Rougeau
Front Row Normcore has Sabyasachi Mukherjee 106 RUNWAY TO
ELLEWAY: TURN UP HERE TO HAVE FUN
returned, Kristen is creating new
82 PURE IMAGINATION Bateman reports— beauty, pairing
THE VOLUME Margaux Anbouba Perspectives
Laura Rysman looks this time with Bigger hair is better catches up with the
stones in unexpected 118 ELIZABETH CHAMBERS
at Marco De Vincenzo’s a bit of gravitas. combinations. hair, Margaux Super Bowl halftime IS NOT WHO SHE MARRIED
new direction for Etro. By Naomi Rougeau Anbouba reports. show headliner. Rose Minutaglio talks
B RIGIT TE N IED ER MA IR

84 WHY EVERYONE Accessories 108 RUNWAY TO 112 REDEFINING to the bakery owner
IS CARRYING A ELLEWAY: A LEG UP NICE SKIN and TV personality
NOVELTY BAG 93 ART FORMS
Shop Margaux Anbouba Skin care has gone about reclaiming her
Whimsical purses The latest bags 100 HIGH LOW helps you get your from punishing name. Photographed
are taking over. are bold in both Hemlines are going legs ready for to warm and fuzzy. by Amy Harrity. Styled
By Kristen Bateman shape and color. up—and down. miniskirt season. By Kathleen Hou by Sarah Schussheim

70
www.akris.com
 March Volume XXXVIII Number 6
Photographed by Ezra
Petronio. Styled
by Anastasia Barbieri
186 SOFT POWER
Skirts and dresses
reign supreme
at work this season.
Photographed
by Christian
MacDonald. Styled
by Alex White
198 LET LOOSE
Fluid, all-black looks
are timelessly elegant.
Photographed by
Liz Collins. Styled by
Anne-Marie Curtis
208 THE GOSPEL
OF JULIA FOX
In what she wears and
what she says, the
famed New Yorker
goes there. By Jessica
Bennett. Photographed
by Richie Shazam.
Styled by Patti Wilson
218 SHOPPING GUIDE
220 HOROSCOPE

COVER LOOK
Gigi Hadid wears a bra,
brief, and arm warmers
from Guest In Residence,
shorts from Polo Ralph
Lauren, and hoop
earrings from Cartier.
For Hadid’s makeup
look, try Nudes of New
York Eyeshadow Palette,
Baby Lips Moisturizing
Lip Balm, and Lash
Sensational Sky High
Washable Mascara
in True Brown. All,
Maybelline New York.

C HRIST IA N MACD ONA LD ; FOR DE TA ILS, SEE SHOPP I NG G UID E.

Hadid wears a bunny
balaclava, top, and
culottes from Ambush,
rings from Cartier,
stacking rings from Fry
Powers, and a ring from
Hotlips by Solange.
DRESS, VALENTINO, Hadid wears a top,
$7,500. NECKLACE, bikini bottom, bracelet,
SWAROVSKI, $650.
and rings from Hermès.
Photographed by Mario
Sorrenti (styled by
138 FAST LANE Alex White; hair by
122 RED MOON RISING Fashion Okay, motomami: Spring’s
Véronique Hyland looks with an edge.
Photographed by Bob Recine; makeup
Kali Uchis radiates love. 126 GENUINELY GIGI through his decade at
new looks are made for Loewe. Photographed Sharif Hamza. Styled by Kanako Takase;
By Alessandra Codinha Adrienne Gaffney manicure by Honey at
speed. Photographed by César Segarra. Styled by Alex White
124 REWRITING talks to Gigi Hadid by Brigitte Niedermair. Exposure NY; set
ART HISTORY by Anastasia Barbieri 170 FRENCH NEW WAVE
about building a new Styled by Karen Langley design by Peter Klein
Dyani White Hawk and life. Photographed 160 SHE’S COME UNDONE Seventies-inspired at Frank Reps; produced
the art of moving forward. by Mario Sorrenti. 152 THE PLAY’S THE THING Supermodel Sora Choi looks evoke Diane von by Katie Fash and
By Adrienne Gaffney Styled by Alex White Jonathan Anderson takes models lingerie-inspired Furstenberg in Paris. Layla Néméjanski).

74
 NINA GARCIA
Editor-in-Chief

STEPHEN GAN
Creative Director
HARRY GASSEL SARA AUSTIN ERIN HOBDAY ALEX WHITE
Design Director Executive Editor Executive Managing Editor Fashion Director
ALIX CAMPBELL KAYLA WEBLEY ADLER JENNIFER WEISEL ALEXIS WOLFE KATHLEEN HOU
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FASHION
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FEATURES
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BEAUTY
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ART AND DESIGN

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 C OURTESY O F T HE D ESIGNE R.

The BAG
Proof positive that Matthieu Blazy has the Midas touch: Bottega Veneta’s
new gold-tipped medium Solstice bag. Shoulder bag, Bottega Veneta, bottegaveneta.com.

78
New Arrivals

C OURTESY O F T HE D ESIGNE RS; FOR DE TA ILS, SEE S HOPP ING GUI DE .

The NECKLACE
Chain-link styles continue to trend, but Nikos Koulis steps things up with his 18K yellow gold
and white diamond Together style. Necklace, Nikos Koulis, Bergdorf Goodman, NYC.

80
 The BOOT
Try a new twist on the beloved Hermès equestrian staple with this version,
featuring artfully perforated leather. Boot, Hermès, $3,025, hermes.com.
.

81
 PURE IMAGINATION

BACKSTAGE AT ETRO’S SPRING 2023 SHOW.

Front Row

By Laura Rysman
new spin on
Marco De

the house
Vincenzo puts

of Etro.
a fantastical
BACKSTAGE MODE L: PHOTOGRAP HE D BY DAVID E GALL IZIO; RUNWAY MO DELS:
P HOTOGRA P HED BY ACIEL LE/ST YLE D U MOND E; BAG : PAOLO FICHER A.
 hat happens to fashion when it’s sprinkled with a puff
of pixie dust? The house of Etro, synonymous with

W finely tailored caftans, layers of paisley chiffon, and

billowing beach ensembles, was long the wardrobe for
high-toned hippies traveling the world. But with Marco
De Vincenzo, the brand’s first creative director from out-
side the Etro family, the Italian fashion house is going on a very different
journey—a trip to a dream world of the designer’s own imagination.
“My vision has always been about fairy-tale fashion,” says De
Vincenzo, surrounded by racks of his hallucinogenic-print creations
at the brand’s Milan headquarters. His method? Start with the familiar
and warp it into something more chimerical, and more startling. Case
in point: a clog transformed from humble to fantastical with a tower-
ing platform and heel accented by a curlicue toe. In his debut show for
spring 2023, models carried chain mesh mini-bags containing an odd
piece of cargo: an apple, conjuring for De Vincenzo the magical world
of Disney’s Snow White, his desert-island movie pick.
“When I was young, children in southern Italy didn’t have that much to
play with,” says the 44-year-old Sicilian designer, twisting his tousled hair.
“So I grew up just having my imagination.” He wears a vintage sweater
emblazoned with a schmaltzy puppy face across the chest and cartoon dog
bones up the sleeves. “Fashion should never lose touch with playfulness,”
he says, smiling. There are other designers creating fashion that’s “deeply
rooted in reality, and it’s beautiful, but that’s not me,” he notes with clear
eyes. “The dimension of dreams is my foundation for Etro.”
Though the creative director position marks his first such role at
a major fashion house, De Vincenzo is a vaunted figure in the industry,
having served for two decades
at Fendi, where he remains the ABOVE: LOOKS FROM MARCO DE VINCENZO’S DEBUT ETRO COLLECTION FOR SPRING 2023.
head designer of leather goods. LEFT: ONE OF THE STANDOUT BAGS FROM THE SHOW.

(Prominently seated in the

front row at his Etro runway
premiere was the Fendi team,
including Silvia Venturini
Fendi and Chairman and CEO
Serge Brunschwig.) And with
his namesake brand, founded
in 2009, he’s built a reputa-
tion for off-kilter clothes with
never-before-seen surfaces—
layering prints, prism effects,
and sequins of every kind.
Etro, founded in 1968 by
Gerolamo “Gimmo” Etro, origi-
nated as a textile manufacturer.
The enterprise later introduced
ready-to-wear inspired by the
Etro clan’s globe-trotting life-
style, and it remained a boho,
family-designed affair in re-
cent decades, with its fashion
arm helmed by Gimmo’s son
Kean and daughter Veronica.
De Vincenzo, conscious of the
intense scrutiny around his
inaugural collection, didn’t
shy away from shocking the
crowd. The first look on the
runway elicited a small gasp
from the audience: Against the
backdrop of a psychedelic cat-
walk, a model paced by in an
itty-bitty jacquard denim bra
top and matching jeans, whose
extra-large legs obscured sky-
scraper platform shoes. It was a getup more suited to a trippy teen rave
than the Bali bungalows of old Etro. There followed Wicked Witch–
worthy capes in tapestry and macramé lace, and striped shirts sticking
out below the hem of miniskirts. There were patterns of birds, cherries,
and gardens—not a paisley swirl in sight—that De Vincenzo found in the
house’s extensive archive of antique fabrics dating back to the 1700s,
which he shrank to miniature size or blew up to uncanny proportions,
à la Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland. It was all enough to make the
eyes twirl in their sockets, casting exactly the spell of unreality that De
Vincenzo desired.
Perhaps just as head-spinning was the time frame De Vincenzo was
tasked with: three weeks to completely design his debut collection and
present the first glimpse of the new Etro to the world. “I married without
really knowing my spouse—it was like one of those antiquated Sicilian
stories of arranged weddings,” he says of the rushed courtship, from the
announcement of his appointment last June to finalizing his designs for
production by July, before Italy closed down for its annual summer holi-
days. Yet he had time to consider Etro beyond its past of flou and paisley,
unearthing English-style stripes (“the preppy part” of Etro, he calls them)
and rich jacquards that would inspire his ode to the brand’s textile foun-
dations. The paisleys, he would like to reassure the world, are returning
in upcoming collections. “The next step,” the designer says, picking up
a newly finished leather basket bag with the brand’s Pegasus logo, “will
be to unite my universe with Etro’s.”
He shows off another purse: the Love Trotter, a style produced in col-
laboration with Mytheresa, with recycled-plastic handles and surplus
Etro fabrics. Its initial run of 200 bags represents De Vincenzo’s first nod
to upcycling and sustainability at Etro, to be expanded in future seasons
with more bags and limited-edition garments from salvaged stock ma-
terials. For his own brand last year, De Vincenzo introduced Supérno,
a collection of vintage clothing made new with extreme embellishments
of crystals and rivets. The reuse of existing materials “is the way forward,”
insists De Vincenzo—a down-to-earth observation from the designer set
on taking Etro to fairyland.

83
Front Row
Why Everyone
From JW
Anderson’s viral
pigeon clutch
to Gucci’s
playful take on
Gremlins,
oddball trinkets
are trending.

Is Carrying a
Novelty Bag

agree: The bag has been sold out for months,

FRAGKOU; SCHIA PARE LLI BAG: KU BA DAB ROWSKI; REMA ININ G I MAGE : CO URTE SY OF THE DE SI GNE R.
and is currently on preorder.)
“I only like to approach bags in a very literal

“ BAG-U ET T E” BAG: SO PH IA SCHR ANK; MOSCHIN O MO D ELS: PH OTOGRA PHE D BY CHRIST INA
or humorous manner,” says Hillary Taymour of
downtown-darling label Collina Strada. “We
had a broccoli tee in the collection, and I ran-
domly thought it would be so cute to be holding
actual broccoli.” So she sent exactly that down
DAUPHINETTE
DESIGNER OLIVIA her spring 2023 runway, set in a lush Brooklyn
CHENG COLLABORATED
WITH YUKIKO MORITA greenway that houses a monarch butterfly pre-
OF PAMPSHADE ON
A PLAYFUL “BAG-UETTE” serve. “Apparently you can Postmates brocco-
BAG FOR SPRING 2023.
li,” she says, “and I was able to have a bag done
by 3 a.m. in time for fittings the next morning.”
“We’re in an era of extremes in fashion.
roccoli dangling from a chain. Sickly-sweet pearlescent flowers. A miniature On the one hand, we have the rise of elevat-
house hanging from a handle. These random assortments of art objects are the ed basics and enduring everyday bags; on the

B latest lineup of conversation pieces in fashion. Just look at Gucci’s mesmerizing

Gizmo and crystal-covered bear charms—not meant to be adored from afar or
sit on a shelf, but to be worn with expressive impact. Novelty is thriving.
other, we’re looking to fashion to escape, em-
bracing maximalism, creativity, and novelty,”
explains Rickie De Sole, women’s designer
Lately, fashion is being filtered through an absurdist lens, and in a world that fashion and editorial director at Nordstrom,
seems to have hit peak luxury, nothing feels more joyful than wearing a bag that doesn’t take who adds that Collina Strada’s crochet bags,
itself so seriously. Who would have thought the most in-demand clutch of the season would re- Simone Rocha’s acrylic heart-shaped minau-
semble a literal pigeon? Designer Jonathan Anderson’s 3D-printed version of the city-dwelling dières, and Moschino’s and Anya Hindmarch’s
bird has been seen on street-style stars and donned by one of the most iconic bag collectors in playful art-object totes are in high demand
TV-character history: Carrie Bradshaw, in the upcoming season of And Just Like That…. Trading during these wild times. The luxury resale
her Fendi Baguette for a pigeon feels apropos for our surrealist times. (Thousands of Carrie fans company Rebag attributes the craze to special

84
BELOW: INSPIRED BY A SCENE FROM EYES WIDE SHUT, PUPPETS AND
PUPPETS DESIGNER CARLY MARK BROUGHT BACK THE LANDLINE.
TOP RIGHT: A HEART-AND-LOCK MOTIF AT MOSCHINO SPRING 2023.
BOTTOM RIGHT: A SURREALIST SCHIAPARELLI DESIGN.

collaborations that can often yield unconven- Especially when it’s an object that feels so un-
“THEIR ONE-OFF tional shapes. “Their one-off nature makes usually average, like a pigeon or that aforemen-
NATURE MAKES them great collectible items that double as
investments,” says Chief Marketing Officer
tioned bodega staple. The everyday becomes
absurd—and you can take it with you wherever
THEM GREAT Elizabeth Layne. She cites the Louis Vuitton x you go.—KRISTEN BATEMAN
COLLECTIBLE NBA Ball in Basket bag—which, per the com-
pany’s 2022 Clair Report, retains an average
ITEMS THAT of 147 percent of its retail value at resale—as
DOUBLE AS well as the Gucci and Disney Mickey Mouse
shoulder bag (123 percent).
INVESTMENTS.” In the bustling streets of downtown Man-
—Elizabeth Layne of Rebag hattan, it’s become impossible not to notice
extremely playful bags from another brand:
Puppets and Puppets. The label’s pièce de
résistance is a black leather rectangular bag
embellished with a surreally lifelike cookie
smack-dab in the middle of it. “We live among these everyday objects, often food items, and I see
them and think that they’d look great on a bag,” says designer Carly Mark, who reconfigured the
humble cookie bag with a plethora of new oddities, from bananas to landline telephones (the lat-
ter inspired by a scene in Eyes Wide Shut with Nicole Kidman). “I try it, and some of them work
and some of them don’t.” Mark collaborates with her friend, artist Margalit Cutler, to make resin
look-alikes of inanimate objects for the bags. “We did a Cosmic Brownie bag, because I’ve lived in
New York for 16 years and I’d walk into a bodega and see those Little Debbie Cosmic Brownies,
and there’s something so visually appealing about them,” she says.
While a Chanel flap bag will always convey status, an accessory that looks like something
else completely gives way to the kind of DGAF attitude that makes fashion interesting right now.

85
Front Row
Dressing for
REAL LIFE
ailey Bieber presumably has
access to every piece of de-
H signer clothing she could
possibly want. Yet when giv-
en the opportunity to flex her
design skills, she skipped the
sequins and ball gowns and instead dreamed
up double-breasted overcoats, long-sleeve tees,
and pleated trousers. Her capsule collection
with Wardrobe.NYC came about because even
she felt like she was missing “forever go-to
essentials,” as she told Net-a-Porter. It’s not just
Bieber. Many in her cohort—like Kendall Jenner,
Emma Chamberlain, and Kaia Gerber, as well
as plenty of non-celebrities—have been drawn
to wardrobe staples from contemporary, min-
imalist brands created in the past decade, such
as Anine Bing, Toteme, The Frankie Shop, and
Raey. They’re doing big business, too, with The
Frankie Shop pulling in over $40 million in 2022
net sales and 100 percent year-over-year growth.
Inside the stealth
brands that are
helping ambitious
women develop
a new form of FROM LEFT:
KENDALL JENNER
uniform dressing. IN TOTEME;
HAILEY BIEBER IN
THE FRANKIE
SHOP; CLAIRE
ROSE CLITEUR IN
ANINE BING.
86
“I didn’t think I could sell a white T-shirt,
but apparently I can,” says The Frankie Shop
creator Gaëlle Drevet. The ethos behind the
brand was “to serve women on the go who
wanted to look put-together without looking
too contrived.” Like many founders, she started
the company after being unable to find things
for herself. She didn’t want to wear “normal, cli-
chéd business attire,” she says. “I thought there
was a niche for a different way of looking done,
but still undone”—in other words, a new way to
do business casual. Indya Brown, fashion editor
at Who What Wear, is drawn to these brands
because they mean business. “I just turned 30.
I cleaned out my closet recently and thought,
‘If I’m going to be a professional, I really have to
pay attention to what I’m wearing.’ It’s not just
about having the flashiest designer, but looking
really put-together.”
If the girlboss era—defined by an influx of
female start-up CEOs wearing high-waisted
jeans, crewneck sweatshirts, and soft blouses
while securing large Series A deals—is behind
us, its spirit lives on sartorially. A new genera-
tion of young women is showing up, ready to
work (not necessarily in an office) and rolling
up the sleeves of their boxy blazers, button-
down shirts, and slouchy trousers. And then
they’re re-wearing the blazer on the weekend
for brunch with their girlfriends. Call it the
“businesswoman special” look.
O F SUSSEX: T IM ROO KE/SHUT TE RSTOC K; RE MA ININ G IMAGES: CO URTE SY OF A NI NE BI NG.
J ENNE R: R ACHP OOT/BAC KGR ID ; BIE BER: MEGA / GC/ GE T T Y I MAG ES; DUK E AND D UCHESS
TYLYNN NGUYEN,
MEGHAN MARKLE,
AND BABBA C
RIVERA, ALL IN
ANINE BING.
Although these brands offer basics, they are
hardly basic in the colloquial sense. “It’s time-
less and effortless,” says Olivia Gentin, COO
of Anine Bing. What sets them apart are tai-
lored tweaks and twists that differentiate their
wares from traditional menswear labels or old-
school outfitters like L.L. Bean. The best-selling
white T-shirt at The Frankie Shop comes with
drop armholes and shoulder pads that give you
the sharp silhouette of Grace Jones. (Brown
was pleasantly surprised to find that even the
Frankie Shop sweatsuit she bought during the
pandemic had shoulder pads.) A Bing best-
seller, the menswear-inspired Quinn blazer,
comes in a khaki green color that makes for
an unusual but still effective neutral. And al-
most every brand boasts an oversize silhouette.
“There’s something about an oversize fit that
makes something feel a little more luxurious
and more designer, in the way it moves on the
body,” says Jess Graves, editor of the newslet-
ter The Love List. For Drevet, “It’s about break-
ing the perfection by having something that
looks a bit odd—a little bigger, a little trapeze.”
At Raey, the private label of MatchesFashion,
the best-selling pieces are ultra-baggy jeans
(it describes them as “giant”), alongside tailored
jackets and coordinating trousers.
The result? An easy form of practical uni-
form dressing that doesn’t involve wearing
black Issey Miyake turtlenecks every day,
“IT’S NOT JUST ABOUT HAVING THE
FLASHIEST DESIGNER, BUT
LOOKING REALLY PUT-TOGETHER.”
—Indya Brown of Who What Wear
Steve Jobs–style. These labels minimize de-
cision fatigue, particularly when designers
are now offering six collections a year, many
of which are wildly different from one anoth-
er. “People do dress in uniforms in some ca-
pacity. The beauty of these lines is that they
encourage [that]. They take that same blazer
that you love and release it in another color the
next season. You can add to your collection,
and you don’t feel bad buying it, because you
know you’re going to wear it,” Graves says. Raey
creative director Rachael Proud echoes this
idea: “From the inception, we always wanted
it to be a brand you could come back to time
and time again and find pieces and colors that
would work together. So I love to see an old
pair of Raey jeans worn with a new knit. We are
garment-focused, so we’re not thinking about
a seasonal look. Every item has to earn its
place.” And mixing items with designer pieces
is encouraged. “We don’t believe in Frankie
being the answer to everything.... We’re giving
tools for styling,” Drevet says.
The modular approach holds a special ap-
peal in this hybrid moment. Brown explains:
“I have my Instagram wardrobe and my daily-
life wardrobe. Day to day, I’m wearing high-
waisted black trousers and a good white tee.
I want to look presentable but still have fun,
which is where the little notes of trendiness
from brands like The Frankie Shop come in.”
As awareness of fashion’s impact on climate
change increases, the timelessness of these
styles also means that consumers will hang
on to them longer.
And it means they’ll always have something
to wear, no matter the demands of life or work.
“I used to think about dressing in an event-
specific way, rather than treating the more
mundane aspects of my life as something to
dress up for as well. [These clothes] make me
feel like I’m dressing for the life I actually have,”
Graves says. “I think of it as like having a well-
stocked bar or pantry. If you have good base in-
gredients, then you’re always going to be able
to whip something up.”—KATHLEEN HOU
87
AT VALENTINO’S
SPRING 2023 SHOW,
PIERPAOLO PICCIOLI
REIMAGINED CLASSIC
WHITE SHIRTING.
 Front Row
Basic
INSTINCT
Normcore, the
hipster anti-style, was
back on the spring
runways. But this time,
it’s all grown up.

hen Kate Moss made a sur-

prise appearance on Bottega

W Veneta’s spring 2023 runway,

perhaps the biggest shock
was what she was wearing.
The icon who launched a
thousand Pinterest boards had traded her
glam It Girl ensembles for simple, oversize
jeans and a Kurt Cobain–worthy flannel-print
shirt. The moment turned out to be a trend
indicator of sorts, as the season hummed
with white undershirts, reimagined denim
(rendered in leather at Bottega Veneta or
comically oversize at Vaquera), and quirky
dad caps on street-style stars. Welcome to
the new era of normcore—and all the 2010s
nostalgia that comes with it.
We’ve been living in a period of maximal-
ist fashion during the pandemic, and now that
more-is-more approach is starting to rub off
on even the humblest of garments for spring.
Just look at Miu Miu’s layered T-shirts or Peter
Do’s, Alaïa’s, or Valentino’s oversize, reimag-
ined button-downs: The most classic of ward-
FROM LEFT:
robe staples are coming back into style with SPRING 2023
LOOKS FROM
a subversive vengeance. BOTTEGA VENETA,
BURBERRY, MIU
It all goes back to the early 2010s, when MIU, AND BALLY.

normcore was born. Part of the reason for its

sudden return is that “we’re in a neo-yuppie
moment,” says Sean Monahan, founder of director and chief curator of the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology. One might
trend forecasting group 8Ball and cofound- wonder if a possibly impending recession is cause for the shift, but Steele doesn’t think so. “Usually,
VA LE NTI NO MO DE LS: P HOTOGR AP HE D BY CHRI STINA FR AGKOU;

er of the now-defunct collective and trend economic factors are not really that important, unless they’re devastating, like a major economic
forecasting group K-Hole, which brought depression,” she says. “It’s much more likely that this has to do with a wider shift from maximal-
the term normcore to the masses in 2013. The ism to minimalism.” Adds Monahan, “Once you leave the confines of certain downtown neigh-
R EMAI NING IMAGE S: C OURT ESY OF THE D ESIGN ERS.

new, more upscale normcore wave isn’t ex-
actly what it was 10 years ago. The blandness
has transmuted into something slightly more
complex, and underlying it is also a hint of
prep: Think less Jerry Seinfeld, and more
Carolyn Bessette Kennedy or Princess Diana.
Both women were idolized for their minimal-
ist aesthetic, and their old-money style is find-
ing a new audience with those who’ve burned
out on dopamine dressing.
“We’re moving on from the ’90s but con-
tinuing with this minimalist trend, but [this
time it’s] less austere,” says Valerie Steele,
borhoods, it’s hard to tell if people are going to the office or the gym or to meet their friends. It’s
just a total collapse into casualness.”
What might look ho-hum is actually quite subversive—and driven by irony. Take, for instance,
what Monahan calls the “persistence of the meme baseball hat.” He recently bought a New York
Post camo cap “because it’s such a funny object,” but he also cites Instagram-famous brands
Praying and Hollywood Gifts as examples of this kind of tongue-in-cheek dressing. Likewise, the
original normcore “was mostly about this acceptance of the emergence of social media,” Monahan
says, “and the inability to do the hipster thing and find un-Googleable or unidentifiable treasures
in thrift stores or from small labels.”
Normcore’s second coming finds us in the same boat, but this time we’re even more chron-
ically online and glued to TikTok’s ever-changing array of crazes: balletcore, the tennis obsession,
the “old money” look, the “clean girl” aesthetic. Amid an endless cycle of trends, being basic has
never felt so good. —KRISTEN BATEMAN

89
TOMFORD.COM
 Accessories

ART FORMS
The season’s blue-chip bags stand out
with sculptural shapes and a rainbow of hues.
P H O T O G RA P H E D BY M I T C H E L L F E I N B E RG

HANDBAG, FENDI,
$3,290, FENDI.COM.
 Accessories

HANDBAG, CHANEL,
$4,525, 800-550-0005.
HANDBAG, HERMÈS,
$9,500, HERMES.COM.
 Accessories

CLUTCH, FERRAGAMO,
$7,900, FERRAGAMO.COM.
HANDBAG, BOTTEGA VENETA,
BOTTEGAVENETA.COM.
Accessories

SNAKE
CHARMER
Bulgari celebrates
75 years of its iconic
Serpenti designs.

NECKL ACE: COURTESY OF BULGARI; BARZINI: GIAN PAOLO BARBIERI; HANDS: IRVING PENN/CONDE NAST US; FOR DETAILS, SEE SHOPPING GUIDE.
TOP LEFT: PINK GOLD,
ONYX, AND DIAMOND
SERPENTI NECKLACE,
BULGARI, BULGARI.COM.
ABOVE: ITALIAN MODEL
AND ACTRESS
BENEDETTA BARZINI
WEARING A SERPENTI
BELT, STYLED AS
A NECKLACE, AND A
SERPENTI BRACELET IN
HER HAIR, 1968. BELOW:
MODEL WEARING
SERPENTI BRACELET
WATCHES, 1971.

ith famous fans from Elizabeth Taylor (who wore

a Bulgari bracelet in a publicity still for Cleopatra)

W to Charlize Theron, Bulgari’s Serpenti range is

arguably its most iconic. Influenced by ancient
design motifs, the Roman firm’s articulated snake
jewelry has become both a symbol of change and
of the strong women who have worn it since the late 1940s.
Over the decades, Bulgari has embellished its signature ser-
pents with everything from enamelwork to precious stones and
placed the snake’s head on everything from timepieces to hand-
bags, firmly cementing its status as a house hallmark alongside
the eight-point Condotti star.
To mark the 75th anniversary of the range, Bulgari is introduc-
ing a necklace, ring, earrings, and bracelet that pay tribute to the
pallini technique developed by the jeweler in the 1950s. Comprised
of hundreds of tiny, flexible beads soldered onto a central gold coil,
the pallini pieces offer an incredible range of movement, and thus
versatility for the wearer. But don’t assume the story ends there:
The design team drew from Bulgari’s Serpenti High Jewelry range
by adding over 300 white diamonds and a pair of black onyx eyes
for even more drama. La Liz would be proud.—NAOMI ROUGEAU

98

C OURTESY O F T HE D ESIGNE R; FOR DETA ILS, SEE SHOP P IN G G UIDE.
STATEMENT EARRINGS AND NECKLACE,
SABYASACHI, SABYASACHI, NYC.
Worldly
Goods
Sabyasachi Mukherjee
leaves no stone unturned
for his latest collection of
high jewelry.
ven if you’ve not yet visited the new Sabyasachi bou-
tique in New York, you’ve surely caught a glimpse of
E the ornate space on Instagram. Amid the chandeliers
and artfully layered antiques, you could be forgiven
for thinking that the snaps were taken in an Indian
palace, rather than a West Village retail space—and it
is just that mix that can be seen in the Kolkata-based designer’s latest
high jewelry collection.
“I take inspiration from the way women dress and beautiful homes
are created,” says designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee, citing Kate Moss’s
ability to combine tattered denim and couture. “It’s an eclectic mix, very
lived-in, like finding a Picasso on the wall next to the doodle of a two-
year-old child.” Such is Mukherjee’s design method, which eschews the
usual hierarchy of stones and cookie-cutter motifs and instead elevates
combinations that simply look beautiful, such as chrysoprase or sodalite
mingling with sapphires and diamonds. “We want to give value to our
customers, irrespective of the value of the stones that we are using,” says
the designer, who took a folksy approach to classical jewelry this season
and looked to the work of Frida Kahlo and Amrita Sher-Gil, as well as
the endangered flora and fauna of the Sundarbans National Park’s man-
grove forest in West Bengal.
“Real luxury is about what touches the wearer. It doesn’t have to al-
ways translate to what people see,” explains Mukherjee of the decision to,
say, line the underside of a semiprecious bracelet with diamonds. Another
element that distinguishes his work: a network of some of India’s most
skilled craftspeople. The designer is making it his mission to create future
museum pieces: “I think in years to come, what is going to really create
value for jewelry is going to be craftsmanship, because it is becoming
rarer and rarer.”—NAOMI ROUGEAU
99
JW ANDERSON
Shop

High
you through spring.
and midi are trending simultaneously.
Presenting the two key pieces that will carry

Low
Forget the hemline index—this season, mini
J W AND ERSON MOD ELS: P HOTO GRA PHE D BY CHRISTINA FRAGKO U; D IOT IMA TO P AND ST ELL A M CCARTNE Y SHO RTS: COURT ESY
OF MODA OP ERA ND I; Y VO NNE LÉON RI NG: COURT ESY O F FA RF ETCH ; RE MA INI NG I MAGE S: C OURT ESY OF THE D ESIGNE RS.
 3 4

2
1
WEA R
IT
WIT H

1. Shoulder bag, Givenchy,

$1,500, givenchy.com.
5
2. Red Star earring, $990,
gold earring, $1,790, FoundRae,
foundrae.com. 3. Top, Diotima,
$1,025, modaoperandi.com.
4. Jacket, Schiaparelli,
8
Schiaparelli, Paris. 5. Shoulder
bag, Il Bisonte, $420, ilbisonte
.com. 6. Ring, Yvonne Léon,
$1,905, farfetch.com. 7. Sandal,
Neous, $590, neimanmarcus 9 7
.com. 8. Sunglasses, Gucci,
$565, gucci.com. 9. Valaya Eau
de Parfum, Parfums de Marly,
$355, parfums-de-marly.com.
The 6

LONG SHORT SHORTS, STELLA

MCCARTNEY, $1,050,
MODAOPERANDI.COM
SHORTS, BRANDON
MAXWELL, SIMILAR STYLES
AT BRANDONMAXWELL
ONLINE.COM

STYLING TIP
SHORTS, A tailored cut
PETAR PETROV, lends itself to
PETARPETROV.COM
evening dressing
when paired with
something sparkly.

SHORTS, SILK
LAUNDRY, $280,
SILKLAUNDRY.COM

SHORTS, LAPOINTE, $950,

SHOPLAPOINTE.COM
.

SHORTS, WALES
JASON WU BONNER, $795,
WALESBONNER.NET
Shop 1
WEAR
I T
WI TH

2
DRESS, CHRISTOPHER
KANE, $1,375,
CHRISTOPHERKANE.COM

DRESS, GIAMBATTISTA
VALLI, MODAOPERANDI.COM

BERNADETTE

DRESS, LOEWE,
$2,350, LOEWE.COM
6
The
DRESS,
COURRÈGES, $890,
COURREGES.COM
MINI
7

C OURTESY O F LUISA VIA ROMA; REMA INING IMAGES: COURT ESY OF THE DE SIGNE RS.
GIA MBAT TISTA VA LLI D RESS A ND COP ERNI D RE SS: COURT ESY OF MO DA O P ERA ND I;
L’AT ELIE R NAWBA R R IN G: COU RTESY OF NET-A- PO RT ER; N ENSI D OJAK A D RES S:
8 1. Sunglasses, Chanel, $575, select Chanel
DRESS, NENSI
boutiques nationwide. 2. Flat, Celine by Hedi
DOJAKA, $1,554, Slimane, $850, celine.com. 3. Sandal, Khaite,
LUISAVIAROMA.COM $1,850, khaite.com. 4. Rouge Hermès Spring
2023 Limited-Edition Lipstick in Corail
Parasol, Hermès Beauty, $72, hermes.com.
5. Ring, L’Atelier Nawbar, $2,100, net-a-
porter.com. 6. Bralette, $120, panty, $85,
Araks, araks.com. 7. Hoop earrings,
Swarovski, $165, swarovski.com. 8. Electric
Cherry Eau de Parfum, Tom Ford, $390,
tomford.com. 9. Shoulder bag, Marc Jacobs,
$375, marcjacobs.com.
DRESS,
COPERNI, $1,728,
MODAOPERANDI 9
.COM

STYLING TIP
The abbreviated
silhouette is made for
layering over delicate
lingerie. Keep things
casual with a low heel.
Beauty
IT LIST

Spring Has
Sprung
Skip into the season
with the newest crop of
beauty releases.

LOE WE CA ND LE: YI T UO; RE MA ININ G I MAGE S: COURTE SY OF T HE BRA NDS.

1
LOEWE CUCUMBER CANDLE,
$104, PERFUMESLOEWE.COM
“I feel very grown-up to have
graduated from the cucumber
melon body lotion of my youth
to this elegant candle. It’s a
nose-tingling scent that smells
like a fresh cucumber snapped
off the vine.”—Kathleen Hou,
Beauty Director

104
 2

2. CELINE SMALL TRIOMPHE

PERFUMED CÉRAMIQUE, $120
(SET OF THREE), CELINE.COM
“Shaped like Celine’s signature
Triomphe, this trio of perfumed
ceramics comes in two scents,
including my favorite, Parade.
I have each of them in a different
room so that my entire home
smells divine.”—Margaux Anbouba,
Beauty Editor
3. HERMÈS PLEIN AIR
IRIDESCENT MINERAL POWDER,
$105, HERMES.COM
“My cheekbones can now wear
Hermès, thanks to this softly
illuminating face powder.”—K.H.
4. KOBA SOAK ME UP SOAP BAR,
$25, KOBASKINCARE.COM
“Justice for the humble bar soap.
Not only does this smell like an
earthy spa, but it hydrates while
lathering, and gave me a smoother
shave than I’ve achieved in a long
time.”—Tatjana Freund, Beauty
E-Commerce Writer
5. DIPTYQUE L’EAU PAPIER EAU DE
TOILETTE, $175, DIPTYQUEPARIS.COM
“If you love that post-shower
freshness, you can scent-layer this
after bath time. The floral notes
smell as if you’ve just been rolling
6
around in a field of flowers!”
—Danielle James, Digital Beauty
Director, ELLE.com
6. LES FILLES EN ROUJE
THE FACE OIL, $70, ROUJE.COM
“Tumblr star–turned–French It Girl
Jeanne Damas’s line now includes
skin care. The face oil contains
vitamins C and E to give skin an
instant glow; Damas taught me
to dab it on my cheekbones
post-makeup for the perfect dewy
highlighter.”—M.A.
7. LA MER MOISTURIZING SOFT
CREAM, $380, LAMER.COM
“This moisturizer has been part
of my nighttime routine because of
the incredibly hydrating Miracle
Broth inside. It’s been reformulated
for the first time in a decade,
and I’m even more in love with it.”
—Nina Garcia, Editor-in-Chief
Beauty
R U N WAY TO E L L E WAY

Turn Up the Volume

The higher your hair, the
closer you are to runway perfection.

indy Crawford. Christy Tur-

lington. Naomi Campbell.
C The bouncy blowouts of the
’90s—and of the era’s most
popular supermodels—are
the latest nostalgia-based beauty inspiration.
Sleek, brushed-back blowouts and super-high
topknots with thick, face-framing tendrils
were seen on countless runway models this
season. Regardless of which style you choose,
you need volume, baby.
“Beauty looks are recycled every decade
or so,” says Tamika Gibson, owner of The
Hair Diagram and head hairstylist at Sergio
Hudson’s spring 2023 show, which featured
teased hair. Beyond the supers, Gibson had
Robin Givens as Jacqueline in Boomerang on
her moodboard.
What makes this trend firmly planted in
2023 is that you can have body with movement—
no hair-sprayed helmets. Celebrity and TRES-
emmé Global Stylist Justine Marjan, who re-
cently styled similar looks on Ashley Graham
and Ella Balinska, suggests adding TRESemmé
One Step Blowout Balm ($9; cvs.com) to damp
hair for “the perfect bouncy blow-dry prep.”
Gibson likes to pair two products from Kenra
to build big hair: Design Spray 9 ($20; ulta.com)
on each curl for hair memory, then Volume
Spray 25 ($21; ulta.com) to lock in the final
style. “You also need to make sure hair is 100
percent dry before starting to style,” Marjan
adds. “If any moisture is left in the hair, it will
fall flat immediately.”
To create the height, try this: Curl hair sec-
tions with a large-barrel iron, like InfinitiPRO
by Conair Cool Air Styler ($60; conair.com),
then wrap them around big rollers, like Dry
Bar High Tops Self-Grip Rollers ($12; drybar
.com), and secure with duckbill clips. This will
give the hair bounce and curl, differentiating
it from the sort of beachy waves you normally
LUIGI & IAN GO/ TRUN K A RCHIV E

see on The Bachelor franchise. For a subtler,

easier version, there’s the T3 AireBrush Duo
($190; t3micro.com), a styling brush that dries
and round-brushes your hair simultaneously.
CINDY CRAWFORD’S
“In the ’90s, big, voluminous hair rep-
DAUGHTER, KAIA
GERBER, ROCKS HER
resented luxury and glamour,” Marjan says.
MOTHER’S
SIGNATURE STYLE.
No wonder we can’t resist the look.
—MARGAUX ANBOUBA
Beauty R U N WAY TO E L L E WAY
MODELS AND
THEIR MINIS AT
ISABEL MARANT
SPRING 2023.
A Leg Up
The mini is having a major moment for spring,
so give your legs some extra love.
t’s been a year since Miu Miu sent the first version of
its viral Y2K miniskirt marching down the runway, and
I the new spring collections have dozens of brands like
Celine, Isabel Marant, and Jacquemus following suit.
Perhaps in the past a miniskirt would have only been
thought appropriate for certain sizes, but the new wave
of short skirts are for all. “Everyone, in every type of body, should wear a
miniskirt if that’s what they want to do,” says body confidence influencer
and writer Marielle TerHart. “And if there are things beauty-wise that
make you feel a little more confident while doing it, that doesn’t hurt.”
For some, it is what they want. New York City–based dermatologist
Paul Jarrod Frank, MD, says that “legs are becoming more of a focus
for my patients,” and that March is the time to make an appointment.
Frank has seen it all in his Upper East Side office: Scars from acci-
dents or skin cancer removal can now be smoothed by injecting bio-
stimulators like Renuva (myrenuva.com), which prompt your body to
create new tissue and naturally fill the area permanently. The intense
108
I SA BEL MA RA NT MOD ELS: PHOTO GRAP H ED BY SO NN Y VAND EVEL DE ; E TRO MODEL: I MA XTRE E.
pulsed light laser BBL Hero by Sciton (sciton.com) is a comfortable
and cost-effective way to clear sun-damaged spots or broken capil-
laries. Frank’s new favorite, the microcoring device Ellacor (ellacor
.com), makes tiny holes nearly half a millimeter in size to tighten, smooth,
and lift skin above the knee. Muscle-building devices—which may feel
mildly discomforting, but simulate a major workout—have caught on via
treatments like Emsculpt (bodybybtl.com).
TerHart’s personal spring wardrobe includes a miniskirt from Wray
(Selkie and Christian Siriano are other brands she cites for embracing
body diversity). She says she’s using her favorite beauty products to
reconnect with her body—including the cult-loved MegaBabe Thigh
Rescue ($14; megababebeauty.com), a balmy stick that creates glide to
stop chafing, and Luna Bronze Glow Gradual Tanning Moisturizer ($33;
lunabronzetanning.com). “By doing something like putting nice lotion
on,” she says, “I’m spoiling a part of my body that I previously neglect-
ed, or didn’t feel very connected to, and treating it to compassion and
care.”—MARGAUX ANBOUBA
 Face the Rainbow
Wear your aura on the outside
with this brilliant makeup trend.

ainbows typically don’t origi-

nate from beneath a bridge—

R but makeup artist Yadim

made it happen at Marni’s
colorful spring 2023 show,
held in Brooklyn’s DUMBO
neighborhood. He painted the lids and fore-
heads of a handful of models in sky blues, tan-
gerines, and crisp whites, bringing the aura
makeup trend out of experimental teen TV
show makeup trailers and into high fashion.
“We’re seeing this trend of aura-like beau-
ty, once very organic and painterly, now being
expressed in a very fluid way,” says makeup
artist and formulator Danessa Myricks, who
is known for her eponymous line’s long-lasting
and vivid color cosmetics. “Achieving this look
in real life can be as simple as extending your
blush tones beyond the cheek, upward through
the temple.” This can be done with a single
shade, or two tones for a gradient effect.
The migration of blush past the cheekbone
also appeared on Christian Cowan’s spring
2023 runway. Meanwhile, Etro’s take was more
reminiscent of an actual aura photograph—
shades like yellows, pinks, and purples (all
great colors to have in your aura) faded into
each other. At Dion Lee, Isamaya Ffrench used
the Temptu Next Generation Airbrush Kit
($245; alconemakeup.com) to airbrush lique-
fied eye shadows from her Industrial Colour
Pigments Eyeshadow Palette ($115; isamaya
.com) for an insect-inspired, but similar, effect.
“Nowadays, I use the full face as a canvas
rather than just focusing on one feature,” says
makeup artist Jo Baker, who cofounded the
vibrant, no-rules-based makeup line Bakeup
by Jo Baker last year. To create your own ver-
sion of the aura effect, all you need are a fluffy
makeup brush (Baker recommends a “light-
ly packed, not dense, hard synthetic brush”
to cover large swaths of the face) and a few
complementary hues—plus the other magic
ingredient for seamless blending between
shades: elbow grease. “Start on the part of
your face where you want the strongest place-
ment of color,” instructs Myricks. From there,
blend upward and outward to create diffusion.
“Finally, take your foundation brush and blend
the edges to ensure there are no harsh lines.”
YOUR AURA CAN
BE YELLOW,
Blended colors, yes. But blending in is
AS SEEN AT ETRO
THIS SEASON.
something you won’t be doing with this look.
—M.A.

109
Beauty
Rihanna Is Here
to Have Fun
IN S P IR ED
FENTY BEAUTY FENTY
EAU DE PARFUM,
$140, FENTYBEAUTY.COM
“This scent captures so many
memories and places that are
personal to me, and I love that
it becomes personal and unique
to everyone who wears it.”
110
BY R I HA NN A’S ROUT IN E
AMBER CYLINDER BOTTLE
WITH SPRAYER,
$1, PREMIUMVIALS.COM
“I keep a travel spray bottle
with me so I can spritz
on the go. I’ll put water or
rose water in it to
elevate the experience.”
FENTY BEAUTY FENTY ICON
VELVET LIQUID LIPSTICK,
$29, FENTYBEAUTY.COM
“I love that lipstick is
so expressive. Even when
I’m tired, I can just put
on a bomb lipstick, and
bam—I’m vibrant and alive.”
And the newest Fenty
Beauty launch is
helping her do that.
THERE’S NO NEED to introduce Rihanna to you. Instead,
let me fill you in on what she’s been up to: caring for her
new baby boy, headlining the Apple Music Super Bowl
LVII Halftime Show (her first live performance since
2018), and continuing to release sell-out-within-minutes
pieces with Savage x Fenty and Fenty Beauty. While the
promise of a new album has yet to be confirmed (please,
God), here’s Rihanna, in her own words, on traveling,
life as a new mom, and her favorite product to look
extra-alive.—MARGAUX ANBOUBA
On motherhood and beauty
“Becoming a mother has only added to the inspiration in
my life. I’ve had to find the balance between an efficient
routine that maximizes precious ‘me’ time and full glam,
because I really enjoy that colorful creative process.”
On inventing a new lipstick
“When it comes to matte liquid lipstick, we all know
the deal—intense pigment often comes with intense
dryness. I wanted to fix that. Fenty Beauty Fenty Icon
Velvet Liquid Lipstick has a luxe formula that’s creamy
and whipped so that the color glides on and feels plush
but won’t crack. That’s why we call it a ‘velvet matte.’ It
comes in a range of five shades of reds, pinks, and neutrals
that are flexible and work on everyone.”
On her long-flight beauty routine
“I do everything I can to stay hydrated, from applying
moisturizers to drinking coconut water—it’s really the
only way to save your skin, especially on those long flights
to different time zones and climates. I bring Fenty Skin
Hydra’Reset Intensive Recovery Glycerin Hand Mask
($22; fentybeauty.com) with me on overnight flights, and
Fenty Skin Plush Puddin’ Intensive Recovery Lip Mask
($22; fentybeauty.com) because it coats my lips and keeps
them full-looking. Hydration from head to toe is key!”
On why smelling good is so important
“My mom was the first person to introduce me to beauty
and fragrance. I loved her scent, and smelling good was
really important to her. It was always the finishing touch
before she would go out. And that’s how I treat fragrance
today: I want it to exude everything that I feel, everything
that I am, and everything that I want to be.”
C OURTESY O F T HE BR A NDS.
On her beauty legacy
“My mantra has always been and always will be, ‘Beauty
is there to have fun with. It should never feel like pres-
sure or a uniform.’ I hope that carries on, because it’s an
incredibly joyful and freeing way to live.”
Beauty
Redefining
Nice Skin
The latest trend in skin care
feels refreshingly simple: kindness.
ice skin has always meant one
thing—perfection. And that’s
N also meant a never-ending
number of ways to chase it.
While some have genetics to
thank (can we call that nepo
skin?), others have sought out filters, lasers,
and skin care routines requiring their own
spreadsheets. In our quest for “nice skin,” we’ve
112
indulged in some not-nice skin behaviors—
picking at our blemishes; overusing burning
facial toners and damaging our skin barrier;
and fiercely judging our skin for not always
being flawless.
But lately, I’ve been noticing actual, genu-
ine niceness in how people treat their skin and
in how brands talk about it. The usage of the
word antiaging now inspires debate, rather
than a resigned cringe. Our pimples have a new
wardrobe of Hello Kitty, rainbow star, or flower
patches. There’s a face positivity wave (we will
save buccal fat for another discussion). And as
for our once-ravaged skin barrier, a deluge of re-
pair products have hit the market. The verbiage
in some of Sephora’s newest offerings has gone
from “shedding,” “eliminating,” and “fighting”
to “repairing,” “soothing,” and “calming.”
Aesthetician Renée Rouleau, who works
with Demi Lovato and Lili Reinhart, has ob-
served the shift in the pores of her clients. “I
see a lot of people who subscribe to a ‘No pain,
no gain’ philosophy. I’ve seen [that] slow down
a bit,” she says. Makeup artist Jaleesa Jaikaran,
who works with Sheila Atim, adds that we
should also redefine the idea of nice skin while
we’re at it: “‘Nice’ is healthy skin that you take
care of—no one is perfect, and that is true beau-
ty.” Sunday Riley, founder of the eponymous
skin care brand, adds that niceness includes
not feeling shame for your skin’s current state.
“The first thing people do is apologize [for their
skin when they meet me]: ‘Hi, I’m Sarah. I’m
really sorry about....’ I think caring for your skin
is the ultimate niceness, and not expecting it to
be perfect every single day.”
Beauty brands seem to feel the healing en-
ergy. Selena Gomez’s Rare Beauty products
are named after the virtues you might hear in
a breath work class. Her lipstick is called “Kind
Words,” and her Silky Touch Highlighter is
“Positive Light.” Riley even has a new product
aphoristically called “Be Nice,” inspired by her
teenage daughter. “I found that the words she
was using to describe her skin were really de-
structive words. There is an act of kindness in
skin care, and acceptance of yourself without
tearing yourself apart.” Be Nice is a 10 percent
niacinamide product, focused on healing and
soothing post-breakout inflammation. Olay’s
new Niacinamide + Peptide 24 Hydrating
Moisturizer has 99 percent niacinamide, and
Dior Beauty’s newly reformulated Capture
Totale Le Sérum uses Tuscan Iris extract to
protect the skin from UV aggressors.
Maybe it all sounds a little woo-woo, but
there is a proven connection between men-
tal health and skin. Numerous studies have
shown that stress can trigger psoriasis and
eczema outbreaks. Wouldn’t it stand to rea-
son that being kinder is not only better for our
mental health, but for our skin health, too?
PHOTOGRAPHED BY TROY COVEY/AUGUST.
Amy Keller Laird, founder of Mental, a men-
tal health and lifestyle platform, agrees. “In the
’90s, you would hide your Oxy 5 at night. Now
it’s about acceptance. This is not to say that if
you have severe acne, you’re like, ‘Ha ha, who
cares?’ We know that it really affects people.
But if you start seeing [real skin] repetitively,
it really starts changing your mindset. You can
think, ‘I’m a human and I can be kind to my-
self about not being perfect.’”—KATHLEEN HOU
Living
Flight of
Fancy
Fashion designer Batsheva Hay
livens up the Upper West
Side with her fantastical style.
BY N AOM I RO UG E AU
P H O T O G RA P H E D BY A L EX E I H AY
S I T T I NG S BY S A RA H Z E N D E JA S

Left: “I go there a lot, which is why I can stand on their table and they’re
cool with it,” jokes Hay of one of her favorite sources, Diana Fabrics, while
sporting a tiered chiffon number from her own line. A diamond necklace
with a gobstopper-size ruby picks up the ditzy pink floral print.
Dress, Batsheva, $425. Necklace, Pasquale Bruni. Pumps, Roger Vivier, $875.

espite being one of fashion’s buzziest couples, you won’t

find Batsheva Hay and photographer husband Alexei
D Hay hosting Fashion Month parties in some downtown
loft. Instead, the creative duo enjoys a quieter lifestyle
on New York City’s Upper West Side, where the focus is
on family and faith—with fashionable flourishes. Hay, a former attorney
raised in Queens, found her calling in 2016 when she debuted her epon-
ymous line of modest (in silhouette only) dresses, influenced by Hasidic
and prairie styles and Victoriana. The colorful frocks count Sarah Jessica
Parker and Maude Apatow as fans. In late 2020, Hay branched out into
home goods, partnering with an upholsterer to give vintage furniture
(and Hay’s collection of decorator fabrics) a second life. Some of the piec-
es have found their way into her apartment. “I’m definitely a maximalist,”
Hay says. “Our home is full of fabric and color, not a Zen spot at all!” In
that over-the-top spirit, we asked Hay to take us on a fantasy tour of her
workday, glamorized by the season’s dazzling high jewelry. Lensed by
Alexei, this heightened version of Hay’s signature style shows her as the
modern-day superwoman she is.

114
 Left: “The neighbors were
complaining about too many pickups
and deliveries in the lobby,” says
Hay of her uptown abode. Craigslist
delivered in the form of a Garment
District studio space that was a
straight shot down Broadway—
perfect for the designer, who loves
to walk to work. Here, a pristine
white dress provides a clean slate
for inspiration in Hay’s busy studio,
while highlighter-yellow kitten
heels give an unexpected jolt of
color, coordinating oh-so-perfectly
with packing supplies.
Willow Dress, Batsheva, $375.
Pumps, Roger Vivier, $1,245.
Below: “I appreciate the quietness
of the Upper West Side,” Hay
says. “It just has this sort of magical
feel, which is echoed in my
clothes. Trends stress me out, and
I almost get overwhelmed being
too much a part of things.” Hay,
never one to shy away from
a statement-making accessory,
elevates her usual workday
breakfast routine with a striped
taffeta ball gown and a
dramatic collar and bracelet of
dazzling white diamonds.
Dress, Batsheva, $550.
Necklace, bracelet, rings, from
$8,050, Van Cleef & Arpels.

Riverside Drive Vibes

“Alexei and I had been living downtown but came uptown to stay
with his father during Hurricane Sandy,” Hay says. “Everything was
high and dry, which was really appealing at the time.” An added
bonus: green space—courtesy of nearby Riverside Park, perfect for
keeping the couple’s children entertained—and plenty of museums
(Mignone Halls of Gems and Minerals at the American Museum
of Natural History is a favorite). Hay even credits the neighborhood
with influencing her work, its low-key vibe in contrast with the
busyness and trend-centric nature that otherwise dominates the in-
dustry. “I think that me really feeling like me, dressing like me,
and making things that are me happens in the quietness (with a dose
of quirkiness) of the Upper West Side.”

But First, Coffee

After dropping off her children at school, Hay starts most mornings
at Culture Espresso, which is conveniently just down the block from
her studio. “My brother’s best friend Johnny is the manager there.
It’s like family,” she says. A typical order: a cappuccino, which on the
morning of our shoot she’s paired with a striped taffeta ball gown
and statement jewelry for an extra dose of whimsy. For lunch, it’s soup
or half a pastrami sandwich at Garment District staple Ben’s Kosher
Deli. If you catch her in the evening, a martini with extra olives is
Hay’s tipple of choice at Cafe Luxembourg, which offers the bustle
of a downtown boîte without the fleeting trendiness.

115
Living WALK IN G TOUR
Above: “This sequined dress is
a current favorite, because I think
my main objective in getting
dressed is to feel as positive as
possible with as little discomfort
as possible,” Hay says. “I love the
ease of getting into it and having
one zipper.” Hay’s favorite pieces
often feature exaggerated shapes,
such as big collars and oversize
sleeves, but color and pattern
are the throughline. Here, classic
jewelry from Jean Schlumberger
provides just enough sparkle without
competing with the main event.
Dress, Batsheva, $575. Schlumberger
ring, $7,500, rings, Tiffany & Co.
116
Top right: Shades of green, from
emerald to lime, emphasize
Hay’s signature auburn locks and
Lana Turner–esque coiffure while
she checks out the latest arrivals at
neighborhood favorite Westsider
Books. When the designer isn’t
engrossed in a book, she’s catching
up on her favorite newsy podcasts
while walking to her Garment
District studio—or dropping off her
children, who also provide sartorial
inspiration, at school. “One of my
best-sellers, the Pleated Apron Dress,
was inspired by my daughter’s
school uniform,” Hay says.
Dress, Batsheva, $525. Bracelet,
Pasquale Bruni. Pumps, Roger
Vivier, $750.
At Work in the Garment District
HA IR BY BRENT L AW LER FOR ACT+ACRE; MA KEUP BY D OT TI FOR WE ST MAN AT EL IER; FO R DE TA ILS, SEE SH O PPI NG GUID E.
Before Hay moved into her current Garment District studio, she’d
been working out of her home until the shipments flowing in and
out became “unmanageable.” Hay now has a small, rotating team of
five employees who help keep things running smoothly (though
she impressively continues to handle her own PR). It’s also the perfect
location for frequent meetings with her patternmaker and visits to key
vendors in order to source the most unique textiles and notions. “It’s
where I’m really in my element—the excitement of, say, going out and
finding buttons,” says Hay, whose husband once even took her por-
trait outside the now-shuttered Tender Buttons. “There are so many
cool specialized places making everything from flowers to embroi-
dery.” That love of whimsical accents also has an influence on Hay’s
own style, which embraces “big costume jewelry clip-ons” along
with treasured family heirlooms. Among her favorites are an Art Deco
ruby necklace and gold Iranian ram’s-head jewelry from Alexei’s
family. “I definitely treat jewelry as part of the clothing and part of the
fun of getting dressed. I don’t feel like I’m going out for the evening
unless I have on an exciting piece of jewelry.”
On-the-Go Inspo
Hay’s preferred mode of transportation is on foot, picking up inspira-
tion and catching up on podcasts along the way. “Honestly, I’m
such a nerd. I listen to the basics, anything topical or newsy, really:
The Daily, NPR’s Up First, Stay Tuned With Preet, and BoF.” She
often finds it hard to resist the draw of Westsider Books. “It’s one of
the places that has just been around for a long time,” Hay says. “It’s
about character.” Recent reads: Norma Kamali’s health and well-
ness book I Am Invincible (a gift from Alexei), a book documenting
Princess Diana’s dresses, and “anything about textiles.”
 YOU’RE INVITED
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FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY BY ALLIE HOLLOWAY

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P ERSP E CT I V E S
Elizabeth Chambers Is Not
Who She Married
In an intimate new interview,
the Texas bakery owner says she is
rewriting the recipe of her
life after leaving Armie Hammer.
BY RO S E M I N U TAG L I O
P H O T O G RA P H E D BY A M Y H A R R I T Y
S T Y L E D BY S A RA H S C H U S S H E I M
his is not how Elizabeth Chambers thought it would
work out. In 2020, her decade-long marriage to actor
T Armie Hammer ended and, well, let’s just say it, six
months later he was called out for having cannibalistic
fetishes, among a host of other allegations. “Yeah, wel-
come to my life,” Chambers says now.
On a chilly morning in November, Chambers and I meet at the Beverly
Hills Hotel Polo Lounge, where Kim Kardashian and Ivanka Trump
dined a few weeks earlier. Even among the glitterati, Chambers stands out
in lace-up Frame heels, a cranberry Ganni minidress, and a gold initial-E
Celine necklace. “Thanks, lovely!” she tells our waiter, flashing a smile
as he sets down a heaping plate of lemon-blueberry ricotta pancakes.
Chambers looks ready for the runway in full glam, but there’s something
else making her glow aside from the makeup. “I’m in love,” she confides.
Chambers tells me she has exited her Tell Me Lies era, referencing
Hulu’s new streamer about a deeply toxic relationship, and is stepping
into a new one where “I’m not taking any bullshit from anyone,” she says.
“You stand up for what you deserve, for what you know is right.” With
the table set, it becomes increasingly clear she is ready to dish about, in
her words, “the events.”
The man she married is not who she is, and his purported appe-
tites—true or not—certainly don’t define her. Call her by her own name:
Elizabeth Chambers. The 40-year-old bakery founder and CEO is writing
a cookbook, working on a TV show, and dating a new man who is helping
heal “my body, my heart, and my mind.” “The last thing I ever want to
do is let someone else’s actions, which have nothing to do with me, make
me angry,” she says. “It’s not going to help me, and it’s not going to help
anyone around me.” Chambers pours syrup on our pancakes. “These are
beyond,” she says, taking a bite.
CHAMBERS WOULD KNOW. In the 1980s, her grandmother, Maureen, ran a
private catering business in San Antonio, and her mother, Judy, owned
one of the city’s first natural-food stores. Although Chambers and
her mom left the state after her parents divorced when she was two
(moving first to Colorado, then to California, before returning to Colorado
for high school), Texas always felt like a “safe space.” She came back to
study journalism at the University of Texas at Austin, and helped care for
118
Maureen on weekends after she was diagnosed with Parkinson’s disease.
Her Texas roots also helped her bond with Hammer, who lived in
Highland Park, outside Dallas, until he was seven. After watching the
1993 Tom Cruise thriller The Firm, which features the Cayman Islands,
Hammer’s father, Michael, heir to a multimillion-dollar oil fortune, relo-
cated his family to the tax haven. Hammer moved back to the U.S. at age
13, later dropping out of high school to pursue acting. Chambers met him
in 2007 through a mutual friend in Los Angeles. At the time, she was an
anchor and correspondent at Al Gore’s now-defunct Current TV, cover-
ing immigration and environmental issues. Hammer, four years her ju-
nior, was also getting screen time thanks in part to blue-blooded wealth
and good looks fit for a Brooks Brothers catalog. Following a cameo on
Arrested Development and stints on Desperate Housewives and Gossip
Girl, he nailed a dream double role as both of the Winklevoss twins in
2010’s The Social Network. “Armie was starting to get some publicity
and recognition,” Chambers’s sister Catherine Chambers tells me. “My
first instinct was [to tell Elizabeth to] be careful who you are trusting.”
After a few months of friendship and nine months of dating, Hammer
planned a very Texas proposal and pulled a diamond ring out of his cow-
boy boot. Their 2010 wedding took place at the All Saints’ Episcopal
Church in Beverly Hills, with a star-studded reception at a vineyard in
Malibu. “They were the most in-love, perfect couple,” Chambers’s long-
time friend Jenna Marshall Schuler says.
Two years later, Chambers followed in her family’s foodie footsteps
and opened Bird bakery in San Antonio, one block from Circle Street,
where she was born. “It all felt very full circle,” she says. Nostalgic lo-
cals who remembered her grandmother’s catering lined up to try Bird’s
signature Monster cookies (peanut butter oatmeal cookies filled with
M&Ms and chocolate chips) and sea salt caramel cupcakes. The shabby-
chic space, which Chambers proudly designed herself, is reminiscent of
a Joanna Gaines remodel, with distressed teal wainscoting and cutesy
chalkboard menus with sayings like “You are the cup to my cake.”
“I really wanted it to be homey,” Chambers explains.
Their daughter, Harper, was born in 2014, and son Ford followed
just over two years later. While Chambers oversaw the opening of a
second Bird location in Dallas, the family split time between Texas and
California. When Hammer left to shoot a movie or go on press tours,
Dress, Silvia
Tcherassi,
$1,150. Hoop
earrings,
$115, ring, $136,
Missoma.
Sandals, Jimmy
Choo, $875.
P E R S P E C T I V E S | Elizabeth Chambers
Chambers came along. “It was completely magical,” she recalls fondly. As
she basked in the sweetness of Bird’s success, Hammer’s up-and-down
career hit a new high in 2017 with the success of Call Me by Your Name.
After Hammer picked up a 2018 Golden Globe nomination for his sexy
role, the couple bought a $4.7 million mansion in L.A.’s historic Hancock
Park to raise Harper and Ford.
It’s hard to pinpoint when—or exactly why—the glamour of it all
started to fade. “Marriage is always going to be difficult, and, as with any
relationship, you go through a process,” she says. “Especially if you throw
success and fame into the mix; it just becomes more magnified.” In 2017,
media outlets pointed out that Hammer was liking memes on Twitter
about Shibari, a contemporary term for the ancient and artistic form of
Japanese rope bondage. Chambers doesn’t talk about her ex’s proclivities
or their own sex life. She does tell me that “boundaries are everything”
in a relationship. “[Over time] your partner is learning things about
themselves,” she says. “They’re growing, you’re growing; you hope that
you’re growing together.” Instead, the pair was growing apart. Looking
back now, Schuler says they spent less time together, and at one dinner
party “didn’t even talk [to each other].” Chambers reveals that for most
of their marriage, the couple saw famed psychotherapist and relation-
ship specialist Esther Perel, host of the popular podcast Where Should
We Begin?, which explores sex and intimacy issues. “[Esther] always said
heartbreak is literally worse than a heroin addiction, and I think about
that a lot,” Chambers says.
By 2020, their circle of trust had all but broken. When COVID cases
started spiking in the U.S., Chambers and Hammer changed their plans
to return home to L.A. from a boat trip in St. Barts and instead headed
to the Cayman Islands, where Hammer’s father and stepmother, Misty,
still lived. They all quarantined together with the kids, which Hammer
described to British GQ as a “very complicated, intense situation, with
big personalities all locked in a little tiny place,” likening himself to a wolf
“caught in a snare” that wants to “chew his own foot off.” To Chambers,
his behavior was less caged animal and more irritating. “He was the
worst,” she says.
The marriage had been tested before—by distance, by fame, and, as
would later come to light, by speculated infidelity. The nail in the coffin
was Hammer’s decision early in the pandemic to leave Chambers and
the kids in the Caymans and head back to California, where he helped a
friend restore an old motel outside Joshua Tree National Park. “My heart
was broken in nine million pieces, and I still drove him to the airport,”
Chambers says. She takes a deep breath to steady her voice and says, “You
can give, you can love, you can be there for someone, but you also need to
hold people accountable for their actions.” According to a Los Angeles
Superior Court docket obtained by ELLE, Chambers filed for divorce in
July 2020, citing irreconcilable differences. “The dissolution of my family
was literally my biggest fear of my whole life,” she says. “You’re building
something, right? You’re weaving a beautiful tapestry, and the last thing
you want is for a knife to come and rip the tapestry in half.”
Chambers continued to run Bird remotely from the Caymans, where
the COVID case count was low and Harper and Ford attended school
in person. The island was also a “beautiful, safe cocoon” where the kids
could process the separation. “When I filed and it became very public,
nobody there cared or, for that matter, even knew [about the divorce],”
Chambers says. “The other kids in their class didn’t have parents who
were entertainment attorneys or were even in the industry.” Meanwhile,
Hammer reportedly dove headfirst into singledom with five new tat-
toos and a string of girlfriends. Some media linked him to an apparent
finsta account and liking more bondage memes. Then, in January 2021,
an Instagram account with the handle “House of Effie” leaked what
it claimed were texts with Hammer about a much more twisted, and
highly disturbing, fetish. In the messages, which have not been verified,
Hammer purportedly wrote that he is “100 percent a cannibal,” and
120
“YOU CAN GIVE, YOU CAN
LOVE, YOU CAN BE THERE
FOR SOMEONE, BUT YOU
ALSO NEED TO HOLD
PEOPLE ACCOUNTABLE
FOR THEIR ACTIONS.”
that he wants to “cut off” a toe and “drink blood.” At first, the public re-
sponse was tittering, but as more allegations surfaced, it seemed like this
wasn’t just a case of celebrity kink-shaming. Hammer was being accused
by multiple women of emotional manipulation. “I was learning things as
the public was,” Chambers says. “I was like, ‘There are no words. What
the fuck?’” As Chambers pieced together her ex’s secret sex life in real
time, her sister Catherine says his accusers were in her DMs asking ques-
tions she didn’t have answers to. “It was all still so new to her,” Catherine
says. “She put on her support hat to be there for these women who had
gone through terrible, terrible situations that were brought on by her
former husband, but Elizabeth chose to be there for them rather than
for herself first. She listened to horrible, deep, dark details regardless of
what it meant for her own life.”
Details of investigations into Hammer’s alleged behavior are murky.
In 2021, the Los Angeles Police Department disclosed an investigation
after a woman came forward in a press conference claiming Hammer
raped her for more than four hours back in 2017. The woman alleged
that he repeatedly bashed her head against a wall, bruised her face, and
beat her feet with a crop. According to some news outlets, that investi-
gation ended without charges. When reached for comment, LAPD said
it opened an investigation “in the beginning months of 2021 for sexual
assault allegations made against Armie Hammer,” which is currently
“still being investigated by detectives.” A spokesman for the Los Angeles
County District Attorney’s Office confirmed that a “specially assigned
prosecutor” is working with law enforcement as they continue to inves-
tigate the allegations, and that “law enforcement has not yet presented a
case against Mr. Hammer to our office.” At the time of publication, police
have said no charges have been filed in connection with the investigation.
Andrew Brettler, an attorney who has issued statements to the media on
Hammer’s behalf in the past, previously said in a statement that “all inter-
actions between Mr. Hammer and his former partners were consensual.
They were fully discussed, agreed upon in advance with his partners and
mutually participatory.” Brettler did not return ELLE’s request for com-
ment; neither did Hammer’s former agent or publicist.
For some, the disturbing details didn’t come as a total shock. “You don’t
just wake up and become this dark controller, [this] abuser; there has to be
a seed that’s planted,” Hammer’s estranged aunt, Casey Hammer, says in
the Discovery+ docuseries House of Hammer. Casey appears as a central
figure in the series, which covers the allegations against Hammer and his
family’s complicated legacy. Talent agency WME dropped Hammer as a
client, and he backed out of two upcoming movies, including the Jennifer
Lopez rom-com Shotgun Wedding. He has adamantly denied all of the
allegations, releasing a statement published in Variety calling the claims
against him “vicious and spurious online attacks.” (Chambers, who is
speaking for the first time about her marriage in intimate detail here,
declined to participate in House of Hammer.)
CHAMBERS ADDRESSED THE ALLEGATIONS on Instagram in February 2021,
offering support for “any victim of assault or abuse.” Her post opened
the floodgates, and some commenters began to question how much she
 Trench coat,
Herno, $685.
Dress, Jason Wu
Collection,
$2,395. Hoop
earrings,
Missoma, $115.

knew—or why she didn’t say something sooner. “A lot of people only saw
her as Armie Hammer’s wife, and she’s always been [more than that],”
Catherine Chambers says about her sister. To remind the world who she
is, Chambers has continued to book cooking segments on the Today show,
appear as a guest judge on the Food Network, and sit for interviews about
her brand as a businesswoman. Other women who feel overshadowed
by men have reached out to her asking for advice on how to retain their
own identities. “The days of putting all your eggs in his basket and then
being left holding nothing are gone,” Chambers says. “No, no. There are
so many things you can do: Advocate for yourself. Learn. Start an Etsy, I
don’t care. Start doing whatever it is that fulfills you.”
Chambers’s journey to fulfillment began after learning how to heal
herself. “You’re literally in this triage state after a car accident,” she says.
“Eventually you’re brought to the emergency room and hooked up to
an IV—and when I say eventually, this isn’t in one day, this is weeks and
then months—and then you start physical therapy. Every day is moving
toward that ultimate goal of being able to walk again.”
She found her footing on the shores of Grand Cayman, where she still
lives full-time with Harper and Ford—mostly, she says, because “paparaz-
zi are illegal there.” On the roof of Palm Heights, her friend’s five-star
hotel, Chambers practices sound healing and meditation. “It’s all about
setting intentions,” she says. “I ask myself, ‘How are you feeling? What
are we going to let go? What are we accepting? What are we receiving?’”
Chambers, who is Episcopalian, prays to God “not to give me anything
bigger than what I could handle.” When things “don’t serve” her, she jots
them down and burns the paper. For her, there is “beauty in the process
of recovery.” “I’ve become more grounded in being one with the earth
and being vocal about what I want and what I don’t like,” she says. “How
can you really let something go if you don’t verbalize it?”
Now that news about Hammer has quieted, she plans to move back
to L.A. for a fresh start. The ex-couple still spend time together in a
non-romantic way, while figuring out how to co-parent Harper and
Ford. Hammer spent nearly six months at a Florida rehab facility in 2021
known for treating drug, alcohol, and sex issues; afterward, his lawyer
confirmed in a statement to People that he’d left and was “doing great.”
Hammer has been spotted visiting the Caymans, though he was rumored
to have been crashing at Robert Downey Jr.’s house in California. is really beautiful is that we’re all imperfect.”
“I support Armie through his journey and I always will,” Chambers In 2021, she opened a third Bird bakery in Denver, and is now scouting
says. “All I’ve ever wanted is for him to be sober, healthy, and happy. And a fourth location overseas. “We are on this planet for a very short period of
he is that. He’s really present when he’s with the kids, and that’s all I can time,” she says. “I want to love everyone I’m going to love and do the best
HA IR BY TED GIB SON FOR STAR RING BY T ED GIBSON ; MA K EUP BY O LIVI A MAD ORM A FOR

hope for. All you want is for your children to have two solid parents,
right? That’s always the goal, so anything I can do to support that, I will.”
There was a time when Chambers loved the idea of her children being
a perfect mix of their parents. Now she is doing everything in her power
to ensure they escape the last couple of years trauma-free. “Do I want
my son to become this? Would I want my daughter to stay in a relation-
ship like this?” she says. Sessions with family-separation therapists have
helped, but “obviously this is all way too much for two children under
eight,” she says. “One day, I want them to be able to say, ‘I am independent
PRTNRS AGENCY; FOR DETAILS, SEE SHOPPING GUIDE.
job I can.” Business has never been better, but these days Chambers finds
herself happiest behind a mixer. “It’s always been therapeutic for me,”
she says. Harper and Ford get homemade pancakes and breakfast tacos
most mornings, and on weekends they host “Cinnamon Roll Sundays”
for neighborhood kids in the Caymans.
When Chambers is not in the kitchen, she’s with her 26-year-old
European boyfriend, who works as a physical therapist in the Cayman
Islands. They have been together for over a year, and she calls him “a
really understanding” person. “With my life, you have to be,” Chambers

of whatever has happened in generations before. I’m aware of it, but I am
the person I am not because of where I came from.’”
Through it all, Chambers has learned more about the person she is. “A
really interesting reset moment,” she calls it. Combing through old family
recipe books inspired her to start work on her first cookbook, which will
pay homage to her grandmother and mother. She also talks about an un-
named TV project that is intended to help people in their everyday lives.
“Our parents and grandparents, and probably generations before that,
taught us to brush things under the rug and pretend like everything is
perfect,” she says. “But that’s so uninteresting, and it’s so damaging. Like,
no, we’re going to talk about it. Nothing is perfect. And I’m really guilty of
that. I always wanted the perfect Christmas card. I’m such a traditional
person. I love family, and I love faith. But at the same time, what I think
says. “It’s a shit show!” They are “so in love,” she adds, but act “completely
platonic if the kids ever see us together, because I don’t think it’s in their
best interest to see their mom dating someone while they’re still process-
ing divorce.” For nearly two years, Chambers avoided speaking publicly
about Hammer. She says opening up has helped her come to terms with
what happened—and move forward. “Do I think she’s fully healed? No,”
her sister Catherine says. “But I do think she has a better understanding of
herself and how to speak with her kids about these difficult topics [when
the time is right]. She is really happy—blissfully happy, in many ways—but
this will always be something she’ll have to address. She’s got this dark-
ness that’s basically tagging along and tapping her on the shoulder every
once in a while. It’s like, ‘Oh, wait. We’ve got to remind everybody that
this happened to you and caused damage in your life.’” ▪

121
C U LT U R E

RED Musical phenomenon Kali Uchis

is what the world needs now—thankfully,
MOON she’s everywhere.
BY A L E S S A N D RA C O D I N H A

MICAIAH CA RTER/AUGUST

KALI UCHIS’S THIRD STUDIO

ALBUM, RED MOON IN
VENUS, IS OUT THIS MONTH.

122

ali Uchis is in love.
This tracks: The 28-year-old’s music has always
been seductive, or, shall we say, vibey, gliding effortless-
ly between soul, bossa nova, reggaeton, and groove. (Put
another way, hers are the kind of songs you can imag-
ine kids in 16 or so years learning that they were con-
ceived to.) You likely know “Telepatía,” even if you don’t
know that you know it. The earworm has been played
on Spotify more than 750,000,000 times at last count.
When it bounced Bad Bunny and Jhay Cortez’s “Dákiti”
from the top of Billboard’s Hot Latin Songs chart in 2021,
it was the first time a song by a female soloist without
an accompanying act had claimed the number one spot
in nearly a decade. Uchis’s newest album, the sultry Red
Moon in Venus, arrives this month, snippets from which
are guaranteed to take over your TikTok feed if they hav-
en’t already. (“Hasta Cuando” has a spoken-word chorus
about dealing with jealous rivals that’s prime material
for creators to mug along to.)
But back to the warm fuzzies—when we connect,
Uchis has just returned from a trip to Australia with her
boyfriend and occasional musical partner, rapper Don
Toliver, who was touring there. “I feel like it’s a beautiful
thing to travel the world with somebody you love,” Uchis
tells me. “He comes on my tours, and I go on his. That’s
how we figured out how to do our lives.”
Born Karly-Marina Loaiza, Uchis grew up between
Pereira, Colombia, and the suburbs of northern Virginia
as the youngest of five children. Pop stardom was cer-
tainly not a given. “I always loved music, I always loved
making things, and I knew in general that my purpose
was to create,” she says, “but I never ever thought that
I would be a singer.” She was a saxophonist in her high
school’s jazz band. “My older brother played saxophone,
so it was in the house already,” she says with a laugh.
“I wanted to play violin, but my parents weren’t about
to rent a whole other instrument. I ended up loving it,
though.” She also wrote poems, which she turned into
lyrics, but she couldn’t imagine herself performing like
the singers she now considers influences—vocal power-
houses like Sade, Amy Winehouse, Shakira, and Björk.
“When I was really little, I liked attention. I was the kid
who was always like, ‘Look at me—look, I’m doing this,
look, look.’” And then? “Then I went through a long
phase where I definitely didn’t want to be looked at.”
Uchis calls this part of her teen years her background
phase, when she got into photography and cinematog-
raphy and learned how to film music videos and make
cover art for other people’s mixtapes. Using the money she earned, she bought a camera
and laptop, and started recording songs, making beats, and sampling music to go with
the visuals. Soon, music became something bigger: the first thing she did when she got
home, the thing she cared about even if no one would ever get to listen to it. At 17, she
was kicked out of her house and wound up living in her car and recording songs there,
mixing them on GarageBand and releasing a lo-fi mixtape, 2012’s Drunken Babble. Only
people did listen.
“After I shared that first project, I saw how much it resonated with people,” Uchis
says. “When you see that you can actually make a difference in people’s lives by sharing
your art, that’s what encouraged me to keep going.” Collaborations with Snoop Dogg
and with Bootsy Collins and Tyler, the Creator followed. As did a 2021 Grammy for Best
Dance Recording that she shares with Kaytranada (not to mention rumors of a possi-
ble future collab with Ariana Grande). And here we are, nearly 2.5 billion streams later.
Not that she’s counting. “Music is one of my purposes for sure, but it’s more so just what
helps me feel connected to God, what helps me feel connected to myself,” she says. “I
think that when you become too consumed by how to use your God-given gifts for cap-
italism—and that becomes your main priority, charting or selling or whatever—I think
that you can get lost really easily that way.”
This has meant trusting her instincts on everything from rejecting easy-money gigs
writing songs for other artists to singing in Spanish, even when the audience didn’t seem
to be with her quite yet: “When I would start performing songs or doing covers in
Spanish—at least in all the places I was performing—it was always kind of a weird vibe,”
Uchis recalls of her early festival circuit. Luckily, these days, American audiences are
primed for everything from K-pop bangers to Latin love songs, as long as they’re good,
and Uchis’s music does not miss. “That’s a really beautiful thing for me—when fans tell
me, like, ‘Oh my gosh, I get a serotonin boost when I listen to your music, like immediately
charged in a positive way.’” That’s the goal.
Uchis and Toliver make music together often, including a track on Red Moon in
Venus. They met through a mutual friend in Houston, started dating, and never really
stopped, going public with their relationship in 2021 after they collaborated on his song
“Drugs N Hella Melodies.” (In one part of the music video, she is perched on the side of
a candlelit cotton-candy-pink bubble bath in embroidered lingerie and a sheer peignoir,
her hair a romantic tangle of pinned-up barrel curls. She eventually joins Toliver under
the suds in a scene that looks ripped from, well, a bodice ripper.) Uchis says that music
provides them with “a whole different way to connect—we just get on a microphone
and bounce melodies off each other. And we love listening to music together. That was
one of the first ways we really bonded: We just showed each other a bunch of music.
We have pretty much the same tastes, so it comes naturally.” She can’t envision music
playing anything less than a central role in her life. “I could never date somebody who
doesn’t have the same [tastes in] music as me,” she says. “That would be awkward—a
guy into, like, the most ass music ever. You would have to ask him to pull over and drop
you off on the curb.”
Lately, Uchis’s Instagram Stories are peppered with scenes of domestic bliss—dec-
orated Christmas trees, carefully cropped interiors—with captions about how the hol-
idays make her excited to start her own family. That definitely wasn’t always the case.
“I’d always thought, since I was little, that I never wanted to have kids, I never wanted
to get married. Because I’d never seen in my family anybody really having a happy mar-
riage, or a happy relationship, or a happy family.” Now that she’s an adult, she wants a
do-over. “That’s one of my biggest dreams, to be able to have my own happy family. It’s
about wanting to give your kids everything, to let them see a happy relationship, and let
them see their parents be in love and just have a loving home environment.”
Did we mention her new album is all about love?
“When you go to the root of how people use music, it’s something we use to connect
to each other,” she says. “It’s something people use to lift the frequencies around them.
I’ve mostly made really chill music, because life around me was very chaotic when I
was young,” Uchis says. These days, she says, a lot of popular music is “toxic, and about
toxic topics”—decidedly not the Red Moon in Venus vibe. “I wanted to make music that
was more geared toward love—real love,” she says, “so that’s the main mission: just love
being the message in its truest form, and letting go of all of that toxic stuff that is very
much the norm in today’s society.” Someday, she hopes this will be her legacy. “I want
people to take away from my life that I never compromised, that I was my truest self,
and that my contribution to the world was love.”
123
C U LT U R E

Rewriting
Art History
Dyani White Hawk brings a Native
perspective to once-whitewashed
corners of the art world.
BY A D R I E N N E G A F FN EY

yani, you’re an artist, and one of these years you’re going

to believe me,” Dyani White Hawk’s mother would say

D as she saw her daughter constantly drawing and crafting

in her youth. “Creating has just always been my favorite
thing to do,” says the multidisciplinary visual artist. “I
remember being young and going to a museum and see-
ing an abstract painting. I had no idea what it was; I just remember see-
ing it and craving it, and being like, ‘Whatever that is, I want to do that.’”
Decades later, with works in the Museum of Modern Art and the
National Museum of the American Indian, White Hawk has very much
become the artist her mother foresaw. Her artwork, which includes
painting, sculpture, installation, performance, video, and photography, is
shaped by a reverence for her Lakota heritage. Her 2021 solo exhibition
at the Kemper Museum of Contemporary Art in Kansas City, Missouri,
presented 10 years of work exploring the way the Lakota tribe embraced
abstract art, including I Am Your Relative, a 2020 series of six life-size
photos of Native women wearing shirts that together spell out the sen-

W HIT E HAWK: N EDA HNESS GREE NE; I A M YO UR RELATIVE : COURT ESY OF TH E ARTI ST, R ICK R HODE S PHOTOGR AP HY,
tence “I am/more than your desire/more than your fantasy/more than

AND BOCKLE Y GALL ERY; WOP ILA | LI NEAGE: COURT ESY O F T HE A RTIST, RO N A MST UTZ , AND BOCK LEY GAL LE RY.
a mascot/ancestral love prayer sacrifice/your relative.”
The 2022 Whitney Biennial included White Hawk’s work titled
Wopila | Lineage, an 8' x 14' installation for which she and her team of
mostly Native artists affixed more than half a million glass bugle beads
to aluminum panels to create a vibrant, geometric image that draws from
Lakota beadwork traditions. It was the highest-profile moment in her
career to date, but White Hawk, 46, says she was initially fearful about
presenting the work in the esteemed show, as she hadn’t seen mainstream
FROM TOP: DYANI WHITE HAWK; WHITE HAWK’S
I AM YOUR RELATIVE (2020), AT HALSEY INSTITUTE
art institutions embrace overtly Native works like hers. “Basically all the
OF CONTEMPORARY ART; HER WHITNEY BIENNIAL
INSTALLATION, WOPILA | LINEAGE (2022).
things art history has told me is that what I wanted to make wouldn’t
necessarily be celebrated or supported or uplifted and honored in the
way that other work might be,” she says. “I decided that it was not in my
best interest to buy into that fear or to make what I thought might be well
received, but to really make what was important to me.”
Building her career in Minneapolis, close to where she was raised in
Wisconsin, was intentional. The city has one of the largest urban Native
populations and a thriving arts community. She sees her presence there as
a way of pushing back on the notion that to be taken seriously as an artist,
one must live in New York or L.A. “It’s ridiculous that there’s an expec-
tation that to be a thriving artist, you have to follow a script,” she says. “I
want to be grounded in a place that makes sense for me and to be a partic-
ipant in a greater arts community. I don’t feel like I should have to choose.”

ELLE is proud to be one of 12 Hearst magazines partnering with the Whitney

THIS PROGRAM IS BEING PRESENTED IN PARTNERSHIP WITH JOHNNIE WALKER, WHICH
HAS AWARDED MORE THAN $1 MILLION IN GRANTS TO WOMEN-OWNED BUSINESSES
AND IS HELPING WOMEN OVERCOME HISTORICAL BARRIERS BY SHOWCASING STORIES
OF THEIR PROGRESS.
Museum of American Art in New York to amplify the voices of female artists in honor
of International Women’s Day 2023. For this historic collaboration, each artist
contributed a piece she feels speaks to the name of the initiative: “The Art of Moving
Forward.” Women are not just surviving but thriving, moving ever forward to lead,
define, and shape a challenging world, and these artists exemplify that.

124
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PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARIO SORRENTI WORK, THE MODEL-TURNED-DESIGNER
STYLED BY ALEX WHITE IS REIMAGINING HER LIFE.
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Guest In Residence.
Elsa Peretti necklace,
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 hat if there was a different Gigi Hadid, an alternate
one? Where this one veered right—signing to IMG while still at Malibu High, then
closing fashion shows and fronting ad campaigns—the other might have turned
to the left. “I could have played volleyball in college and been a coach,” she says.
Or a lifetime love of art could have turned into a theme park career: “I have this
fantasy of working for Disney Imagineering.” What would have remained the
same? She’d still obsess over documentaries. She’d have the same intense work
ethic, quiet goofy side, deep love of family, and desire to learn. The qualities that
are evident in our intimate conversation, the ones that those who know her love
most. Really, isn’t that where the true Gigi lies?
This year has given Hadid the chance to find ways of working that help her
feel whole—and the ability to show the world elements of herself that haven’t
made it into the photos. Last fall, Hadid, 27, launched Guest In Residence, a line
of cashmere classics with a spin, built around the idea that key staples meant to
be kept and worn for years are inherently sustainable. The business allows her to
build on what she’s learned collaborating with design legends and mentors like
Tommy Hilfiger and Donatella Versace (a fellow Taurus, she notes). It also offers
her a routine and consistency, something she didn’t have before but realized she
needed. The lockdown and the birth of her daughter Khai, now two, gave her time
to seriously consider how a career reset could improve her life. “I got pregnant
and I really started to think about what I wanted after, when the world opened
back up. It kept coming back to just a more stabilized schedule where I’m not
in a different country every week. This is very stabilizing. I have an office that I
come to. I know everyone here. I don’t have to look a certain way to show up. It’s
a different experience for me, and it was the right time because I was ready for
that,” she says, seated in her downtown Manhattan office, wearing a loose Guest
In Residence top with jeans and Ugg boots. (One day earlier, she was dressed in
a sequined top, poised on a construction beam high over Manhattan in a photo
shoot for Maybelline New York.)
“I always loved being in creative group environments,” she says. She points
to a long, tall table and explains that she specifically asked for that style in her of-
fice, “because I wanted that to feel like my high school art class tables.” She lives
nearby and stops in even without meetings on the slate. The rest of her team will
tell her to scram, she jokes.
130
Guest In Residence consists of a set of core pieces that sit alongside season-
al capsules. The line includes pants and underpinnings, along with cardigans
and pullovers, and echoes Hadid’s own laid-back style. “They all have a sense
of simplicity to them that I want always to be able to mix with the lifestyles and
styles and personalities of different people of different ages. I think that what all
of those people would have in common is a desire to express themselves. I think
and hope that different people can find themselves in different pieces,” she says.
As a founder and creative director, Hadid considers Versace a role model
for her ability to be “a boss without being rude, ever.” In turn, Versace calls her
family. “She has incredible presence as a woman, an inner strength that shines
within her,” she says. “She is also one of the kindest women I know, and family
is so important to her—like it is to me.” Hilfiger, who worked with Hadid on a
series of Tommy x Gigi capsule collections, has similar praise: “Throughout her
career, she’s had so many fantastic achievements, but it’s her kind personality
and down-to-earth energy that have made her stand out from the rest.” He adds
that he’s not surprised to see her leading her own brand.
ON MARCH 3, HADID WILL BEGIN her first extended on-camera experience when
she joins the second season of Next in Fashion, which she’ll host alongside Tan
France. She’s a reality competition completist (she’s watched everything from
Blown Away to Lego Masters, and she won a celebrity edition of MasterChef),
and France is a friend, so “it felt like a safe place for me to take the plunge,” she
says. “But Netflix was not easy on me. They really put me through an audition
process. I respected that, and it made me feel good when I got the job. I felt like I
had earned it in their eyes, and so that gave me the confidence to go for it. You get
a sense of impostor syndrome and you’re like, ‘Okay, are they just giving me this
show because I have a lot of followers?’ The fact that they really questioned my
intentions for being on the show helped me jump into it headfirst. If they think
that I can do it, then that gives me more confidence than maybe I would’ve had
otherwise.” The show has helped draw out seemingly hidden traits in Hadid as
well: “People say I’m funny. I don’t know, but I think that the more time I’m giv-
en, then the more I’m able to be goofy.”
After nearly a decade in the public eye, Hadid is still navigating the way the
world perceives her. Through sharing snippets of her life, she has created an
“YOU GET A SENSE OF IMPOSTOR SYNDROME AND YOU’RE LIKE, ‘OKAY, ARE THEY
JUST GIVING ME THIS SHOW BECAUSE I HAVE A LOT OF FOLLOWERS?’
”
online following (currently at 76.7 million on Instagram) that, arguably, has helped
secure her place in fashion. But that success has also led to outsize fame that’s
made her a target for paparazzi and gossip. In 2021, headlines alleged aggression
between her mother and Zayn Malik, her then-partner and Khai’s father, that
Malik disputed on Twitter. He pleaded no contest to charges of harassment. Malik
and Hadid’s co-parenting experience has been shown via the prism of the media
as well as Instagram. Landing the tricky balance between discretion and disclo-
sure that fame requires is a matter of trial and error that she’s been fine-tuning
for nearly a decade. “I’ve had early experiences where you learn how the world
reacts when you share things in certain ways. Sometimes you just leave some-
thing feeling like you were taken out of context. Or just feel like you revealed too
much, and it was taken advantage of. Whatever those learning-the-hard-way
experiences are, you grow a certain skin,” she says.
She’s reached a degree of understanding that her life generates headlines.
What helps her get through the scrutiny and criticism is “realizing that nothing
really matters. Serena Williams once told me, ‘Nothing stays in the press longer
than three weeks.’ You can feel like your life is ending,” Hadid notes, but “if it’s a
mistake, then it will pass. I think it’s about not taking yourself that seriously and
being like, ‘When I am on my deathbed, I’m not going to remember that one
awkward interview from when I was 19.’”
So, I ask her, what is it that you wouldn’t know about her from the headlines
or social media posts? She pauses and, unexpectedly, her eyes well with tears.
“What does the world not know about me? I don’t know. I’m getting emo-
tional [thinking about it]. I think that I’m someone who you have to be in front
of to experience. It’s not hard. This isn’t a complaint. It’s more that in my job, you
see a lot of snapshots,” she says. She wipes away the tears and kindly excuses my
apology for bringing them on. “No, it’s fine. Apparently, I needed to say it. There
are a lot of snapshots and really quick moments where, again, there’s not a lot
of context given.” She adds that she sees her Next in Fashion gig as a chance to
open up in a gradual way and show more of herself than what comes across in
paparazzi photos. For the first time in her career, she says, “I went to the same
studio for a month, with the same 100-person crew. You really feel that sense of
community that I think I’ve been wanting, and that really brings out a [sense of
comfort] and the time and space and screen time to show yourself.”
THERAPY HAS HELPED BOTH HADID AND HER SISTER, Bella, cope with experiences in
modeling and in their background that they might not understand in the same
way: “There are different things that we probably both deal with on different
sides, but there’s always going to be something that comes together.” Hadid has
learned that she can set standards for how she expects to be treated. “Setting
boundaries, even if that’s with the paparazzi—going over and saying, ‘Hey, what’s
up? I know we’ve seen each other from across the street for five years, but when
I’m with my kid, please don’t point the camera this way.’ Sometimes you have to
be assertive, and that doesn’t mean that it’s rude. It’s setting a boundary.”
She has physical limits as well, and her health has required her to be clear
about them. In 2016, Hadid spoke about having Hashimoto’s disease, an auto-
immune disorder that impacts the thyroid, causing fatigue and trouble regulat-
ing body temperature, and she’s had to make space in her workday to manage it.
“I’m usually taking a nap during my lunch breaks, and I will eat my lunch when
I’m retouching hair and makeup after. It’s just something that I’ve had to deal
with over the years. Sometimes it’s better than other times,” she says. “When it’s
a really cold shoot, it takes a lot of time for my body to recover temperature-wise,
and it can make me shaky.” Shoots in the heat can also take their toll on her. “One
of the boundaries I have is that I have to tell my team when I need rest. They’ve
always been understanding and encouraging of that, and then besides that, I
think I’ve just learned to make it work for me, and what helps me get through
the day and do my best.”
It’s her daughter Khai who can see Hadid from all angles, she insists. “She
obviously sees me in every state and way, and whether she knows it or not, I’m
going through and learning through life with her. I think that she has a really
realistic kind of 24/7, around-the-clock view. We’re up chatting in the middle of
the night if she’s up; we’re talking about, I don’t know, random stuff, but it’s fun,”
she says. “Having a daughter, although it shifted my life to make me really want
to feel more settled, has also really made me appreciate the chaos as well. Being
at shows and shoots and just being in the city again; being around friends [after]
becoming a mom, with everyone also coming out of COVID—I have an appre-
ciation for both sides of it.”
One last question before a flight to Paris: What does she still want to learn
about? She doesn’t skip a beat. “Everything.” Her face is full of light.
131
 This page: Sweatshirt,
Undercover. Brief,
Loro Piana, $300.
Bracelets, Fry Powers,
from $325. Tennis
bracelet, Tiffany & Co.
Opposite: Top,
shorts, Marni. Socks,
Loro Piana, $825.
Necklace, Fry Powers,
$895. Necklace,
Bulgari, $4,450.
 Brief, Guest In
Residence, $175.
Socks, Loro
Piana, $825.
 This page: Top,
$2,600, brief, $525,
Miu Miu. Socks,
Loro Piana, $825.
Ring, Bulgari, $3,150.
Opposite: Bunny
balaclava, $525,
sweater, $590, culottes,
$690, Ambush. Rings
(on hands and toes),
Fry Powers, $225
each. Rings, Cartier,
from $1,240. Ring,
Hotlips by Solange,
$290. For details,
see Shopping Guide.
HAIR BY BOB REC IN E; MAK EU P BY KA NA KO TAKASE FO R AD D ICT ION BEAUT Y; M ANIC URE BY HON EY AT E XP OSURE N Y;
SE T D ESIGN BY P ET ER KLEIN AT F RA N K RE P S; P RODU CED BY KAT IE FASH A ND L AY L A N ÉMÉJANSKI .
 PHOTOGRAPHED BY BRIGITTE NIEDERMAIR
On Alyssa: Jacket,
leggings, $1,600, STYLED BY KAREN LANGLEY
metal mask, $2,900,
necklace, $850,
pumps, $1,460, Gucci.
WITH ITS SHARP CURVES, OSCAR NIEMEYER’S
ICONIC ARCHITECTURE PROVIDES THE
PERFECT BACKDROP FOR TEST-DRIVING THE
SEASON’S MOTO-INSPIRED LOOKS.
 Opposite, on Steffi: This page, on Steffi,
Bodysuit, boots, top row: Jacket,
$995, JW Anderson. $3,840, dress, $980,
Dion Lee. Mules,
Trussardi. On Alyssa:
Top, $650, pants,
$1,090, Dion Lee.
Pumps, Annakiki.
On Steffi: Coat,
bodysuit, $1,995,
jumpsuit, $2,595,
gloves, $645,
boots, $1,095,
Dolce & Gabbana.
 On Steffi:
Bodysuit, earrings,
Emporio Armani.
Socks, Alpinestars,
$20. Wedges,
Ottolinger, $940.
 On Madeleine:
Dress, mules,
$1,050, Givenchy.
On Madeleine,
left: Jacket, $495,
brief, $195, Miaou.
Pumps, Annakiki.
On Steffi: Top,
Annakiki. Capri
pants, $295, boots,
$995, Miaou.
HAIR BY TOMOHIRO OHASHI AT MA + TALE NT; M AKEUP BY MA RIA NNE AGBAD OU MA FOR STRE ET ERS; M ANI CU RE BY E LSA D ESL AND E FO R
MA JEURE PROD; CASTING BY SHAUN BEYEN AT PLUS THREE T WO; MODELS: STEFFI COOK AT THE IDENTIT Y; ALYSSA SARDINE AT THE WAVE;
MAD ELE INE B LO MB ERG AT P REMIUM; SET DESIGN BY LILLY MART HE E B ENE R AT SO REPR ESEN T; PROD UCE D BY LOUIS2 PA RIS.

Kors Collection,
Blazer, Michael
Opposite, on Steffi:

$1,590.
pumps, Dior.
Dress, socks,
This page, on Alyssa:
 On Alyssa: Trench
coat, $8,000, dress,
$3,290, sunglasses,
$685, earrings,
$1,990, sandals,
$1,050, Saint Laurent
by Anthony Vaccarello.
For details, see
Shopping Guide.
 The

BY VÉRONIQUE HYLAND PHOTOGRAPHED BY CÉSAR SEGARRA STYLED BY ANASTASIA BARBIERI

Jonathan Anderson—
celebrating a decade at the helm of
Loewe this year—has found a way
to have serious fun
with fashion.
 “I think it depends
what mood I’m in
wasn’t until James Joyce left Ireland that he wrote Ulysses and Dubliners,
classics that embed themselves in the topography of his island home. He
or how bored
did so, says Jonathan Anderson, “via not being there, but meticulously being
there,” tracing Dublin’s streets like a palm reader delineating not the future, but
the past. Sometimes, Anderson says, “you have to run away from something to
I’m getting. Sometimes
appreciate it.”
Anderson himself grew up splitting time between Northern Ireland and
Ibiza. “The great thing about an island is you want to get out,” he says. Having the
I get bored very
Troubles as the backdrop to your childhood, “you realize you take everything for
granted. Everything can be very fragile,” he recalls now, running a rope-braceleted
wrist through his tousled dirty-blonde hair. At the same time, “It’s so beautiful.
quickly; sometimes
Everything is gray, so colors really pop. Whereas in Ibiza you’ve got blue skies, and
everything becomes harmonious with each other.” In a Joycean turn of events,
when Anderson decamped for London, he became freer to tell his own story. And
` I’m like, ‘Oh, I’m
storytelling, he says, is what “fashion ultimately is about.”
Anderson first drew acclaim for his line JW Anderson, which won him a
British Fashion Council nod as an Emerging Talent–Ready to Wear, in 2012. The
not done with this
following year, he was tapped by LVMH to run the Spanish house of Loewe. A
decade later, Anderson is a veteran by fashion standards. And like a writer op-
erating at the height of his powers, he is creating more fanciful, relevant, and
talked-about collections than ever.
process yet.’”
Take the Loewe spring 2023 show, which actress Taylor Russell opened in a
dress with panniers, a silhouette Anderson has been experimenting with that’s
meant to resemble the aerial view of a menswear jacket. The digital world crept
in as well, in the form of pixelated video-game looks. So did nature, symbolized
by hyper-realistic anthurium blooms, as alluring as they are poisonous—as seen
in the sandals worn in this story by model and Loewe friend of the house Jeanne
Cadieu. (The collection spoke to “our two dilemmas,” he says. “How do we deal
with technology, and how do we deal with the environment?”) He liked the idea
of starting with something romantic “and then suddenly, bam! There’s a glitch.” It
wasn’t necessarily what people were expecting, but it turned out to be what they
wanted. His clothes, says his friend and collaborator, the model and actress Hari
Nef, “anticipate an appetite.”
Despite the pressure to reinvent the wheel every season, his collections often
feel like chapters in a series—a JW cinematic universe of sorts. In Loewe’s fall
2022 collection, dresses and shoes came ornamented with faux balloons that
appeared semi-inflated; for spring 2023 they were real, and deflated, resembling
crushed petals. “I think it depends what mood I’m in or how bored I’m getting,”
he says of these recurring motifs. “Sometimes I get bored very quickly; sometimes
I’m like, ‘Oh, I’m not done with this process yet.’” He admires Issey Miyake and
Rei Kawakubo, who worked long enough to have distinct eras, à la Picasso’s Blue
Period. And he mentions an obscure Irish painter, Paul Henry, who restricted
himself to painting cloudscapes and landscapes. “There’s something I love about
that. I wish I could just only put out one thing.”
Anderson is unabashedly intellectual—referencing not just Joyce but the poet
Seamus Heaney (Anderson’s onetime neighbor), artist Paul Thek, and ceramicist
Lucie Rie practically in one breath. “Jonathan is not an ivory-tower, tortured-
creative couturier with nothing but a dress form and a pair of scissors,” Nef says.
“Jonathan is a cultural omnivore. He watches everything. He goes to every exhibit.
He reads everything. He’s constantly metabolizing everything he finds cool: art;
television; fashion, both contemporary and archival; books; films. And he makes
them into clothes.” Despite the high-minded references, Anderson’s work is al-
ways leavened with playfulness. “I can overintellectualize things, but at the same
time, there is nothing better than good comedy,” he says. During the height of the
pandemic, Anderson began experimenting with play in a more literal sense, cre-
ating a hyper-analog “show in a box” for spring 2021. “I’m the kind of person who
will not stop unless the world is stopping, unfortunately,” he reflects. “It made me
feel young again somehow. I felt like I had lost all inhibition. I didn’t care what
the industry thought anymore, what journalists or students thought of what I was
doing, because I felt like everything could have gone [away] anyway.” Pre-2020,
“I was a bit more closed as a designer. Probably more difficult, maybe. The pan-
demic helped me reconnect to myself and why I do this job.”

154
Dress, handbag,
pumps, $790, parka,
$4,200, Loewe.
This page: Jacket,
$6,450, top,
trousers, $1,100,
pumps, $1,850,
Loewe. Opposite:
Shirt, pumps,
$1,850, Loewe.
 Dress, $10,500,
sandals,
$1,600, Loewe.

Even when he’s referencing video games, there’s a purity to Anderson’s work BEAUTY TIP
that feels antithetical to contemporary fashion’s postmodern, Easter egg–strewn, Smell like nature
with Loewe Earth
viral-at-any-cost mania. His perspective seems unmediated by the endless scroll Eau de Parfum
of social feeds. As he unspools his allusions, I find myself thinking how few thirty- ($118), a blend of
violet, mimosa,
something designers would be so eager to talk about James Joyce or curate ex- pear, truffle, elemi,
hibits of Henry Moore sculptures. Anderson seems to be striving for modernism, and amber notes.
living by the “Make it new” edict that something wholly distinct can be created
out of nothing.
When he talks about Miyake—the two shared a correspondence but never
met—Anderson points out that he was never a showman. The clothing was always
the main attraction. Today, “we are more interested in the overall bombastic-
ness of something, which can be a problem,” he says. “We’re starting to see a
crumbling of things that we held up so highly, but ultimately what do we do
with it? Because media is going so fast; the consumer is digesting and spitting it
out. They will build it up and break it. I think this is why continuity is becoming
more and more important. And actually, there is nothing more exciting than the
low profile–ness of something.”
Anderson takes continuity seriously. When he joined Loewe nearly 10 years
ago (he can’t believe it’s been that long either), he took a year “to work out how
[someone of] my generation would tackle redoing a brand about classicism, about
making, and less about trend,” he says. He was drawn to its timeless quality, he
says. “We could do fun and wild things that get picked up, but what I set out to
do was build a foundation. Loewe has a very important history that needs to be
protected, but at the same time needs to be current.” His namesake line, as he sees
it, “agitates culture, whereas Loewe is about solidifying it, somehow.”
One thing he did to fuse past and present was establish the Loewe Foundation
Craft Prize in 2016, anticipating fashion’s Luddite return to craft by a few years.
Anderson has also made it a point to collaborate with artisans, most recently as
part of the exhibit Weave, Restore and Renew at the Salone del Mobile, which
showcased the work of Spanish and Korean artisans. Without craftspeople, “it
would be harder for me to create, because I need the sounding board of, ‘Oh, you

“I’d never
can do that.’ Or, ‘Wow, I never thought of it that way,’” he says. “It is a great way
to escape from fashion, to get outside of the bubble of it.”
Another Anderson design trademark has been gender fluidity. His namesake

seen clothes that

line “started off with this idea of a shared wardrobe. I was doing it in a moment
when no one was talking about it,” he says. “Five years later, it was a trend.” He
once found himself in a drag bar in Boston with Nef, who told him how import-

had this
ant seeing the collections on the now-defunct Style.com was to her as a fashion-
obsessed teen. Those early shows, Nef tells me, “felt so electric and unprecedent-
ed, even through a screen.” Particularly the JW Anderson fall 2013 menswear

vocabulary before,
show, which featured frilly boots and tunics in corporate gray wool: “I’d never
seen clothes that had this vocabulary before, that frankly were existing in an in-
between place in terms of menswear or womenswear. It really conked me over

that frankly
the head in terms of how it was possible to dress.”
Anderson will soon be taking on another title, that of costume designer. He’s
collaborating with his friend Luca Guadagnino, the Italian director of Call Me by
Your Name, on the upcoming film Challengers, starring Zendaya. Set in the recent
past, “it’s not theatrical at all, which was actually really challenging. Because you
are trying to make something look as real as possible,” he says. “I wouldn’t do this
for anyone else, bar Luca. But I really enjoyed it. It made me appreciate every
were existing in an
single costume designer in film.”
Of course, that’s on top of doing more than 13 collections a year. I ask him how
he staves off burnout. “You always think you’re going to burn out. Every time I
in-between place
do a collection, I feel like I’m about to lose everything,” he says. “I think that’s
how you prevent it: by thinking you could lose everything. Every time, I feel like,
‘Are we going to lose momentum? Are we going to lose the audience?’ Because
in terms of menswear
fashion is fleeting, ultimately. We love brands for a certain period of time. I’m
quite surprised that we still have the support. Maybe I’ve gotten better with age.”
Fittingly enough, when we speak, he’s planning a visit back to where it all be-
or womenswear.
gan: the land of green and gray where, he says, you never leave empty-handed. “I
will probably leave with a suitcase of food. It’s as if my parents are worried I’m
going to go starving,” he says, adding, in the understatement of the year, “even
It really conked
though I’m doing quite well on my own.”
me over the head
in terms of how it was
158 possible to dress.”
HAIR BY SEBASTIEN BASCLE FOR CALLISTE AGENCY; MAKEUP BY KARIM RAHMAN AT WISE &
TAL ENT ED ; MOD EL : JEANNE CA DI EU AT ELIT E; PROD UCED BY FLORE NT N ORCEREAU FOR SUNN Y DAY.
This page: Top,
$2,500, shorts, LINGERIE DRESSING
TAKES ON A PUNKISH
$1,300, Valentino.
Harness, Zana
Bayne, $175.

EDGE FOR SPRING.

Pumps, Stuart
Weitzman, $575.
Opposite: Dress,

THINK HARNESSES,
bra, earrings, Louis
Vuitton. Cuff, H.O.S.
Leather, $50.

SUSPENDERS,
Pumps, Dsquared2.

AND A KILLER BLACK

MANI—AS SEEN ON
SOUTH KOREAN
MODELING SENSATION
SORA CHOI.
SHE’S COME
UN DO NE

PHOTOGRAPHED BY
SHARIF HAMZA
STYLED BY ALEX WHITE
Opposite: Bra,
bracelet, $350,
Swarovski. Sweater,
$2,850, skirt,
$6,400, Fendi.
Fishnet tights, Emilio
Cavallini, $26.
This page: Harness
dress, Christopher
Kane. Earrings,
Swarovski, from $33.
Rings, Hotlips by
Solange. Boots, Rick
Owens, $4,730.
This page: Top,
$1,125, bra, $365,
shorts, $6,945,
stockings, $125,
garter, $545, Dolce
& Gabbana. Rings,
Cartier, from $2,400.
Pumps, Dsquared2.
Opposite: Jacket,
$3,125, boots,
$4,730, Rick Owens.
Top, Simone Rocha,
$590. Thong,
Neva Nude, $22.
Opposite: Top, $6,550,
shorts, $5,500,
necklace, $5,500,
Chanel. Belt, Zana
Bayne, $290.
Bracelet, Alessandra
Rich, $610. Boots,
Rick Owens, $4,730.
This page: Dress,
Prada, $3,650. Harness,
Zana Bayne, $340.
This page: Jacket,
$3,600, shirt, $780,
pants, $1,800, bow
tie, $365, Gucci.
Harness, Zana Bayne,
$185. Rings, Cartier,
from $2,400.
Platforms, Ambush,
$1,350. Opposite:
Crystal swimsuit, dress,
Burberry. Earrings,
from $39, rings, from
$250, Swarovski.
Platforms, Ambush,
$1,350. For details,
see Shopping Guide.

HAIR BY JUNYA NAK ASHIMA FO R BR IT ISH M ; MA KEUP BY FULVIA FARO LFI FOR CH ANE L; MA NI CURE

JACOB BURSTEIN FOR MHS ARTISTS; PRODUCED BY VERONICA SHARON AT MAANIFEST AGENCY.
BY A JA WA LTON FO R ESSIE; MO D EL: SORA CHOI AT THE L IONS MA NAGEME NT; S E T DE SI GN BY
French New Wave
Channel Diane von
Furstenberg in her Left
Bank youth via sensual,
sophisticated clothes
with a ’70s touch.

Photographed by Ezra Petronio Styled by Anastasia Barbieri

 Gown, Giorgio Armani,
$9,600. Necklace,
bracelets, watch, Cartier.
Opposite: Bodysuit, Isabel Marant, $1,965. Pants, Alexandre Vauthier, $1,445. Sunglasses, Cartier, $1,245. Belt, bracelet, Goossens. Cuffs, Valois Vintage Paris.
Above: Jacket, $5,235, top, $1,350, skirt, $6,695, Balmain. Cuffs, Gabrielle Geppert Paris.
Below: Shirt, $1,850, Opposite: Trench
skirt, $3,250, necklaces, coat, dress, $2,990,
from $670, bracelets, belt, $795, earrings,
from $530, Celine by $1,390, bangles, from
Hedi Slimane. $695, pumps, $1,250,
Saint Laurent by
Anthony Vaccarello.
Scarf, Charvet.
Opposite, left: Dress, handbag, pumps, Bottega Veneta. Watch, Cartier. Right: Bodysuit, $1,750, cuffs, from $490, sandals, $1,290, Ferragamo. Above: Dress, Loro
Piana, $5,975. Sunglasses, Tom Ford, $455. Earrings, Goossens, $403. Necklaces, Dary’s Paris. Necklace, Gabrielle Geppert Paris. Elsa Perretti bangles, from $825,
cuff, bracelet, Tiffany & Co.
Top, $595, skirt,
$2,065, Max Mara.
Earrings, belt,
cuff, Gabrielle
Geppert Paris. Gold
cuff, Goossens.
BEAUTY TIP
French girls (and
French-girls-at-heart)
will love the ease
of Essie’s Gel Couture
Fashion Freedom
Collection in Woven
at Heart ($13)
—one coat is an
instant gel mani, no
UV light needed.
Opposite: Jacket, $3,995, bustier, $595, pants, $1,595, Dolce & Gabbana. Belt, Gabrielle Geppert Paris. Necklace, Goossens. Above: Cape, $2,600, jumpsuit, $6,650,
Chanel. Cape, Anna October, $840. Elsa Peretti cuff, Tiffany & Co.
 Balenciaga.

182
Necklace, Bulgari.
Below: Cape dress,
$1,490, pants,
Opposite: Top,

Proenza Schouler.
$1,190, necklace,

HA IR BY L AURENT P HILIP PO N FO R OL A P LE X; MA K EUP BY KA RIM RA HMA N AN D MA N ICU RE BY BR ENDA AB RIAL, BOT H AT WIS E & TA LE NT ED;
CASTING BY SHAUN BEYEN AT PLUS THREE T WO AGENCY; MODEL: MARIAM DE VINZELLE AT DNA; PRODUCED BY LOUIS2 PARIS.
Top, $1,140, trousers,
$2,560, Missoni.
Necklace, bracelets,
Dary’s Paris. Bracelet,
Gabrielle Geppert
Paris. For details, see
Shopping Guide.
TAKE A BREAK FROM MENSWEAR-STYLE TAILORING BY EMBRACING
THIS SEASON’S MOST COVETABLE SKIRTS AND DRESSES.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY CHRISTIAN MACDONALD STYLED BY ALEX WHITE
Blazer dress,
Michael Kors
Collection, $3,100.
This page: Sweater,
$603, skirt, pumps, Raf
Simons. Bodysuit,
Wolford, $245.
Tights, Fogal, $34.
Gloves, Wing & Weft
Gloves, $525.
Handbag, Hermès.
Opposite: Blouse,
$2,000, skirt,
socks, $460, pumps,
$1,350, Dior.
Trench coat,
Ferragamo,
$9,700. Dress,
$4,800, handbag,
$3,900, pumps,
Prada. Bodysuit,
Wolford, $245.
Tights, Fogal, $34.
This page: Knit
top, $1,100, shirt,
$1,050, skirt,
$1,550, handbag,
$5,000, Fendi.
Coat, Loro Piana.
Opposite: Dress,
Valentino, $7,500.
Necklace, Swarovski,
$650. Tights,
Wolford, $26.
Trench coat,
$9,700, bandeau
top, $430, skirt,
$2,400, Ferragamo.
HAIR BY WARD STEGERHOEK FOR HOME AGENCY; MAKEUP BY FULVIA FA ROLFI AND
MA NICURE BY A KI HIRAYAMA , BOT H FOR CH A NEL; MO D EL: REBE CCA L EI GH LO NGENDYKE
AT ELITE; PRODUCED BY 1972 AGENCY.
Opposite: Jacket,
$2,690, sweater,
$790, skirt, $1,790,
Ralph Lauren
Collection. Tights,
Wolford, $26.
Shoulder bag, Celine
by Hedi Slimane,
$2,950. Slingbacks,
N21 by Alessandro
Dell’Acqua.
This page: Gown,
gloves, $510, Burberry.
For details, see
Shopping Guide.
 PHOTOGRAPHED BY LIZ COLLINS
STYLED BY ANNE-MARIE CURTIS

A SUREFIRE WAY TO RE-CREATE THAT PARTICULARLY

FRENCH BRAND OF SARTORIAL INSOUCIANCE?
EASY, FLUID TAILORING, TEMPERED WITH A FEW FEMININE
FLOURISHES AND A TIMELESS PALETTE OF ALL BLACK.
 Jacket, $2,690, dress,
$850, Isabel Marant.
Boots, Chanel, $2,025.
Blazer, $1,590, swim
bandeau, $350,
trousers, $1,290,
Michael Kors
Collection. Loafers,
G.H.Bass, $155.
This page: Blazer,
$4,000, top, $1,140,
leggings, $1,275,
Chloé. Loafers,
G.H.Bass, $155.
Opposite: Jacket,
bodysuit, skirt,
Stella McCartney.
Socks, Hēdoïne.
Pumps, Carel.
Jacket, $7,500, dress,
$7,900, Celine by
Hedi Slimane. Socks,
Hēdoïne. Pumps, Carel.
HAIR BY SIMONE MASON; MAKEUP BY SHARON DOWSET T AT AGENCY OF SUBSTANCE; MODEL: SANTANA AT PREMIER MODEL MANAGEMENT;
PROD UCE D BY ZOE WASSAL AT GR EAT SOUTHE RN PRO DUCT IONS; SP E CIA L THA NKS TO THE GA LL IVANT HOT EL, UNIT ED K I NGD OM.
Opposite: Dress,
boots, $2,025, Chanel.
This page: Dress,
Louis Vuitton. Loafers,
G.H.Bass, $155.
THE GOSPEL

WITH HER BLEACHED

EYEBROWS, HEAD-
TO-TOE DENIM, AND
ABSOLUTELY ZERO FILTER,
THE QUEEN OF NEW
YORK PROVES SHE WAS Dress, Marrknull,
$2,480. Hood, Jackson

BORN TO BE FAMOUS.
Wrenn McCabe.
Sunglasses, A-Morir,
$285. Sandals, Tom
Ford, $3,950.
OF JULIA FOX
PHOTOGRAPHED BY STYLED BY

RICHIE PATTI
SHAZAM WILSON
STORY BY

JESSICA
BENNETT

J ulia Fox is done with men. No, really, she’s had it. She is not dat-
ing, she isn’t having sex, she has no desire to be intimate with any-
one. “I want to be left alone,” she says, in her punctuated vocal fry.
“Like, don’t talk to me, don’t look at me, don’t bother me.” She’s not
just talking about men she’s had relationships with—although you
can make your own assumptions about one of her recent exes. This is
about men at large. Men who, according to Fox, don’t recognize their
privilege. Men with fragile notions of their masculinity. Men who are
deadbeat dads, and male politicians who make the kinds of policy de-
cisions that leave single mothers to struggle. She’s talking about men
who expect women to carry the emotional burden in a relationship
(“I personally think, like, unappreciated acts of service is not a love
language, you know?”) or expect their wives to take their last name
“like she’s his property.”
“I don’t know,” Fox says, sucking on a vape. “I feel like knowingly
engaging in a heterosexual relationship, you are signing yourself up
for an unhealthy dynamic.” We are at Fox’s studio in Chinatown, sur-
rounded by overflowing clothing and a wall full of shoes, where she
comes to write, usually on Mondays and Tuesdays, when her two-
year-old son, Valentino, is with his father. (Yes, Julia Fox is raising
a boy who will become a man.) “Those are, like, my only two days
to work,” she says. Fox is reflecting on the past year, wearing a Fox
News sweatshirt that has “The Julia Show” emblazoned across the
top, which could just as well describe how it’s been going.
Should you have missed the incessant paparazzi snaps or the viral
red-carpet moments, the magazine spreads or the TikTok videos, Fox—
longtime fixture of the downtown New York club scene; breakout star of
the 2019 film Uncut Gems; and current obsession of a certain corner of
the culture—began the year as the girlfriend of Kanye West, then ended
it somewhere between West’s complete meltdown and her own mete-
oric rise to It Girl of the moment. (Of West’s anti-Semitism, she says:
“I just feel so bad for everyone involved, to be honest. I feel bad for his
family, his children. I feel bad for the Jewish people. Some of my Jewish
friends are shook right now, and that fucking breaks my heart. I really,
truly, would’ve never seen him taking this direction.”)
Fox is working on a memoir that will ostensibly delve into her evo-
lution—this is what she’s been writing—though she is hesitant to give
much detail about what’s in it. Fox says she loved reading as a child, and
spent time shoplifting books from Barnes & Noble, dreaming she’d one
210
Bra top, $6,645, jeans,
$1,995, skirt (worn
under jeans), Dolce &
Gabbana. Tiara,
Gasoline Glamour.
Necklace, Verrouillage,
$100. Boots,
Paris Texas, $3,150.
day write her own. “It’s not like a celebrity who just got a book deal and,
like, got a ghostwriter to write it, you know? Like, I actually am about
this life.” What she will say is that she’s 200-plus pages in, that the book
details her life chronologically, but that it doesn’t revolve around her
relationships. “I didn’t want to make men the focal point,” she says. But
fans, don’t worry: She promises there will be tea.
Some people chase fame. Julia Fox says it chased her. From an early
age, first as a child in Italy, where she lived until age six with her mother
and maternal grandfather, and then in New York, where she was raised
by a somewhat absent father, she has provoked people. “Everyone who
used to meet me would be like, ‘Oh my God, you’re nothing like what we
heard,’” she says. “I’ve been getting that my whole life. So, yeah. I don’t
know what it is. I just, like, elicit this reaction in people.” So as for fame,
“I was like, it just would make sense, you know?”
Fox spent her teenage years in New York, living with her dad and
brother on the Upper East Side, when she wasn’t bouncing between
friends’ houses or living with her drug dealer boyfriend. “We were on
the run together,” she says. She went to an alternative high school famous
for its lack of grades, where students were encouraged to treat the city
as their curriculum (noted students include Jean-Michel Basquiat and
Ad-Rock of the Beastie Boys).
She spent her twenties self-publishing art books (including one
called PTSD, about her recovery from an abusive relationship); running
a fashion label with a friend; and making art, including a gallery show
that featured silk canvases painted with her own blood. For a time, she
was an investor in Happy Ending, the now closed Lower East Side club
popular with a certain breed of early-aughts hipster celebrity. She direct-
ed a short film about child sex trafficking that was never released; for a
brief period, she worked as a dominatrix—it was consensual BDSM, not
sex, she says—which, as it turned out, was great acting prep. “It’s like one
never-ending improv class,” she says.
Fox had dreams of Hollywood. By the time Uncut Gems was released
in 2019—she plays the girlfriend of Adam Sandler, a role she landed
without any acting experience, and for which she received critical ac-
claim—she was ready for her moment. But then, of course, the pandemic
happened. She ended up getting a job on a TV show, then got fired for
showing up late. “Literally, it was like under 10 minutes,” she says. In the
past three years, she has lost a best friend to a fentanyl overdose; gotten
pregnant and divorced; then lost another friend, also to drugs.
This page: Top, skirt,
Weslah. Tulle
skirt, MSGM, $390.

Opposite: Jacket,
Moncler Collection,
$1,795. Jacket,
$990, jeans, $840,
Ssheena. Tiara,
Gasoline Glamour.
Platforms, Tom
Ford, $1,390.
“I THINK TO GET ANYWHERE YOU WANT IN LIFE,
YOU HAVE TO BE A LITTLE BIT DELUSIONAL.”
Now, it seems, Fox is making up for lost time: at haute couture shows,
donning her now-signature raccoon eyes; interviewing Anna Delvey for
the podcast she cohosts with Niki Takesh, Forbidden Fruits; appearing
in an ad for Uber One; walking the frigid streets of New York in a latex
bodysuit, styled by her friend, paparazzi in tow; posing on a mound of
dirty snow for a spread in New York magazine, which recently declared
2022 “Julia Fox’s year.” “I mean, they didn’t need to tell me,” Fox says
with a laugh, when I ask her how that felt. “I already knew.” One would
expect no less from a woman who thinks she is her own muse.
Whether this shtick is performance—and maybe it is—you have to
admit it is compelling. And in an age when it can be hard to tell what’s
real and what’s curated real, and everyone seems worried their words
may be misconstrued, there is Julia Fox, live streaming from her bath-
tub or on the toilet—without makeup, her kid sometimes in the back-
ground, unraveling the most insidious aspects of the patriarchy while
raising a boy she hopes can avoid them. “I’m terrified,” she tells me.
“I’m like, ‘Oh my God.’ I cannot create, I cannot produce another one
of these horrible men.”
Perhaps it’s in her delivery, but something about these little nug-
gets of wisdom is comforting. Such as when she declared, in a recent
TikTok video, that “aging is fully in—like, fully,” somehow making this
statement sound believable despite stating just nine months prior that
“after 25, there’s nothing to celebrate.” (Fox says she has used Botox,
and once got liposuction—and honestly, she might do it again. But not
right now. “I’m, like, saggy—like, things are not sitting the way they
used to. But it’s like, I am not gonna do a damn thing about it,” she says.)
Meanwhile, she is giving tutorials on how to bleach your eyebrows—a
look she has described as “man repellent” that is particularly triggering
to her ex-husband—and raging about the fact that some states exempt
male hair-loss products from sales tax, but not pads and tampons. “It’s
violent at this point the way that capitalism extorts women,” she says
in the TikTok video.
Fans who subscribe to the Gospel of Julia know there’s not much
she can say that will surprise at this point, except that then she manages
to. On the Ziwe show, she responded to a question about whether she is
pro–women killing men by saying: “I think that if the man deserves it,
yeah, why not? Men kill women all the time for no reason.” In fact, there
was one man she did believe deserved it, she tells me. He was a drug
214
dealer who she thought provided the fatal dose that killed her friend. She
says she knew where he lived, so she stalked his neighborhood with her
dead friend’s gun until she found him. “I would literally, like, sit across the
street in my car, put the seat all the way down, and watch him through
the little side mirror for hours, like coming and going.”
“I’m glad I didn’t kill him,” she says, taking a long drag of a joint. As
it turned out, she explained, her friend likely died from a combination
of things in her body, not one bad pill.
In many ways, Fox was built for this moment—her quippy one-liners
made for shareable sound bites; her messiness the antidote to the per-
fectly coiffed Instagram aesthetic; her ability to deliver a line that sounds
like the unhinged rambling of a stoned Valley girl but also makes you
wonder if she’s actually right.
On whether she considers herself ambitious: “I think to get anywhere
you want in life, you have to be a little bit delusional. You have to be like,
‘I’m gonna be that bitch,’ you know?”
On how she feels about motherhood: “Making a fucking human be-
ing is superhero shit.”
On marriage: “At the end of the day, a wife and a prostitute are both
doing the same thing, but the prostitute is doing it with different men
and the wife does it with the same man—they just put a fancy label on it.”
Fox says this is her “I don’t give a fuck era,” though it’s hard to imagine
she ever gave much of one. She is sitting at a small desk, with a mess of
cleaning products, diapers, and makeup balancing on a windowsill—as
well as a Kanye action figure someone sent to her, whose head she has
popped off and replaced with an alien face. “I’ve definitely changed,” she
says, pausing to think about it. “I feel different from even, like, last year.”
Some of this, she says, is being a parent—and the ability to comb
through the aspects of her life that simply aren’t serving her. “Valentino
keeps me grounded, and in such an insane way that nothing has ever
been able to before,” she says. Maybe some of it is the stability that comes
from some success, even if she has, technically, always made it work. “You
know what, I’ve been hustling and on my own for so long that it’s like, I
know no matter what, I’m going to figure it out. Whether that’s a scam
or a man or both, I figure it out.”
Or maybe, as she puts it, it’s just not really that deep. “I’m just really
unfazed by it all,” she says. “I feel like in my head, I’ve been famous my
whole life.”
 Corset, Act N°1,
Jeans, LRS, $650.
Vintage tiara, New
York Vintage,
$450. Gloves,
Wiederhoeft, $590.
 Opposite: Dress,
Luis De Javier,
$3,500. Earrings,
Mithridate, $210.
This page: Bra top,
GCDS, $600. Shorts,
Diesel, $495. Jacket
(at waist), M65 Studio,
$1,500. Gloves,
Et Ochs. Armen Ra
tiara, $1,295, choker,
$1,195, Paumé Los
Angeles. Sandals,
Tom Ford, $3,950.
For details, see
Shopping Guide.

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Shopping Guide
COVER
GIGI HADID WEARS
Bra, $165, brief, $175, arm warmers,
$95, Guest In Residence,
guestinresidence.com. Shorts, Polo
Ralph Lauren, $148, ralphlauren.
com. Hoop earrings, Cartier,
$4,700, cartier.com. Hadid’s
own vintage Cartier necklace.
Bunny balaclava, $525, sweater,
$590, culottes, $690, Ambush,
ambushdesign.com. Rings, Fry
Powers, $225 each, frypowers.com.
Rings, Cartier, from $1,240, cartier.
com. Ring, Hotlips by Solange,
$290, hotlipsbysolange.co.uk.
Top, $4,025, bikini bottom, $125,
bracelet, $5,150, rings, from
$1,500, Hermès, hermes.com.
Inside Cover: Fendi, fendi.com.
Hermès, hermes.com. Hotlips by
Solange, hotlipsbysolange.co.uk.
NINA’S EDIT
PAGE 62: Earrings, Silvia
Furmanovich, $12,600,
Bergdorf Goodman (NYC).
TABLE OF CONTENTS
PAGE 70: Valentino, similar styles
available at Valentino boutiques.
Swarovski, swarovski.com. Louis
Vuitton, louisvuitton.com.
NEW ARRIVALS
PAGE 80: Necklace, Nikos
Koulis, $83,040, Bergdorf
Goodman (NYC).
LIVING: FLIGHT OF FANCY
PAGES 114–116: Batsheva,
batsheva.com. Pasquale Bruni,
pasqualebruni.com. Roger Vivier,
rogervivier.com. Van Cleef
& Arpels, 877-VAN-CLEEF.
Tiffany & Co., tiffany.com.
ELIZABETH CHAMBERS IS
NOT WHO SHE MARRIED
PAGE 119: Silvia Tcherassi,
shopbop.com. Missoma,
missoma.com. Jimmy Choo,
jimmychoo.com. Herno, herno.
com. Jason Wu Collection,
jasonwustudio.com.
GENUINELY GIGI
PAGES 126–137: R13, r13.
com. Free People, freepeople.
com. Fry Powers, frypowers.
com. Bracelet, Tiffany & Co.,
$19,000, tiffany.com. Guest In
Residence, guestinresidence.
com. Hermès, hermes.com.
Undercover, undercoverism.com.
Loro Piana, loropiana.com. Fry
Powers, frypowers.com. Marni,
marni.com. Bulgari, bulgari.
com. Miu Miu, miumiu.com.
Ambush, ambushdesign.com.
Cartier, cartier.com. Hotlips by
Solange, hotlipsbysolange.co.uk.
FAST LANE
PAGES 138–151: Gucci, gucci.
com. JW Anderson, jwanderson.
com. Dion Lee, dionlee.com.
Annakiki, annakiki.com.
Trussardi, trussardi.com. Dolce
& Gabbana, dolcegabbana.com.
Emporio Armani, armani.com.
Alpinestars, alpinestars.com.
Ottolinger, ottolinger.com. Dress,
Givenchy, $17,000, givenchy.com.
Miaou, miaou.com. Michael Kors
Collection, michaelkors.com. Dior,
800-929-DIOR. Saint Laurent by
Anthony Vaccarello, ysl.com.
THE PLAY’S THE THING
PAGES 152–159: Loewe, loewe.com.
SHE’S COME UNDONE
PAGES 160–169: Valentino,
Valentino boutiques nationwide.
Zana Bayne, shop.zanabayne.com.
Stuart Weitzman, stuartweitzman.
com. Louis Vuitton, louisvuitton.
com. H.O.S. Leather, hosleather.
com. Dsquared2, dsquared2.
com. Swarovski, swarovski.
com. Fendi, fendi.com. Emilio
Cavallini, emiliocavallini.
com. Christopher Kane,
christopherkane.com. Hotlips by
Solange, hotlipsbysolange.co.uk.
Rick Owens, rickowens.eu.
Dolce & Gabbana, dolcegabbana.
com. Cartier, cartier.com.
Simone Rocha, simonerocha.
com. Neva Nude, nevanude.
com. Chanel, at select Chanel
boutiques nationwide. Alessandra
Rich, alessandrarich.com.
Prada, prada.com. Gucci, gucci.
com. Ambush, ambushdesign.
com. Burberry, burberry.com.
FRENCH NEW WAVE
DRESS, $4,450,
PAGES 170–185: Giorgio PUMPS, $1,850,
Armani, armani.com. Cartier, by LOEWE, LOEWE.COM.
appointment only at select Cartier
boutiques nationwide. Alexandre
Vauthier, alexandrevauthier.
com. Goossens, goossens-paris.
com. Valois Vintage Paris, Bulgari, bulgari.com. Proenza nationwide. Swarovski, com. Weslah, by special request,
valoisvintage-paris.com. Balmain, Schouler, proenzaschouler. swarovski.com. Ralph Lauren weslah.world. MSGM, MSGM
balmain.com. Gabrielle Geppert com. Missoni, missoni.com. Collection, ralphlauren. (London). Moncler Collection,
Paris, Gabrielle Geppert (Paris). com. Celine by Hedi Slimane, moncler.com. Ssheena, farfetch.
Celine by Hedi Slimane, celine. SOFT POWER celine.com. N21 by Alessandro com. ACT N°1, actn1.com.
com. Trench coat, Saint Laurent PAGES 186–197: Michael Kors Dell’Acqua, numeroventuno. New York Vintage, New York
by Anthony Vaccarello, $12,800, Collection, michaelkors.com. com. Burberry, burberry.com. Vintage (NYC). Wiederhoeft,
Saint Laurent (NYC). Bottega Raf Simons, rafsimons.com. wiederhoeft.com. Luis De Javier,
Veneta, bottegaveneta.com. Wolford, wolfordshop.com. THE GOSPEL OF JULIA FOX luisdejavier.com. Mithridate,
Ferragamo, ferragamo.com. Fogal, fogal.com. Wing & Weft PAGES 208–217: Marrknull, mithridate.com. GCDS, gcds.
Loro Piana, loropiana.com. Gloves, wingweftgloves.com. marrknull.myshopify.com. com. Diesel, diesel.com. M65
Tom Ford, tomford.com. Dary’s Handbag, Hermès, $10,600, Jackson Wrenn McCabe, @ Studio, m65studio.com. Et
Paris, Dary’s (Paris). Tiffany hermes.com. Skirt, Dior, $13,000, google____me. Tom Ford, Ochs, etochs.com. Armen
& Co., tiffany.com. Max Mara, 800-929-DIOR. Ferragamo, tomford.com. A-morir, shop.a- Ra, paumelosangeles.com.
maxmara.com. Dolce & Gabbana, ferragamo.com. Prada, prada. morir.com. Dolce & Gabbana,
dolcegabbana.com. Chanel, 800- com. Fendi, fendi.com. Coat, dolcegabbana.com. Gasoline Prices are approximate. ELLE
550-0005. Anna October, eraldo. Loro Piana, $10,125, loropiana. Glamour, gasolineglamour.com. recommends that merchandise
com. Cape dress, Balenciaga, com. Valentino, similar styles Verrouillage, verrouillage.co. availability be checked with
$11,500, balenciaga.com. available at Valentino boutiques Paris Texas, paristexasbrand. local stores.

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Horoscope
ASTROT WINS

PISCES
FEB 19–MAR 20
You step into your power and
authority this March, when, on
the 7th, masterful Saturn enters
MARCH
Don’t call it a comeback, call it a bonus New Year.
The March 20 equinox restarts the zodiac calendar,
Pisces for the first time since restoring balance to our lives. The new moon
1996. While this three-year cycle
could feel a bit like boot camp,
in trailblazing Aries electrifies the skies
messy setbacks will lead to the very next day—the first in an ultra-rare pair
profound moments of glory. The of lunations that culminates with the April 20
trick is to embrace the process.
solar eclipse. Embrace novelty and set yourself
ARIES up for a total refresh.
MAR 21–APR 19
As you reset for spring, focus on
situations that light your fire—and
let go of anything that threatens to
extinguish your flame. Although your
go-getter nature might make people
squirm, pursue your passions in
your own inimitable way. Rewards
will come in hot within four weeks
of the March 21 new moon.

TAURUS
APR 20–MAY 20
Before you pour any more effort
into a mission, take time to refill
your own cup. Catch up on reading,
family time, home projects—and,
of course, your beauty sleep.
After the 21st, you might begin
to work with a healer, therapist, or
coach. Letting go is the way
to grow—and miracles will happen
once you get out of your own way.
GEMINI
MAY 21–JUNE 21
This month is all about teamwork.
As you cast for a supergroup,
assemble a collective of thought
leaders instead of settling for
backup dancers. And when you do
collaborate with others, be more
vocal about your idealistic visions,
even if this disrupts the status quo.
“Symbolically
for Pisces in the
zodiac, two fish
swimming but
connected by a
gold cord means
avoiding getting
lost in elusive
CANCER
JUNE 22–JULY 22
This month, nurture relationships that
are clear win-wins. Caring for your
collaborators is what motivates your
sensitive and family-oriented sign.
You won’t always know when you’re
being observed, but your graceful
way of taking charge will be noticed.
LEO
JULY 23–AUG 22
Gently release those creature
comforts as you ease out of
hibernation and recalibrate your
focus on the wider world. Your
job in March is to cast the widest
possible net. While you may feel
like an outsider at times, embrace
the cultural learning curve that
comes from expanding your reach.
VIRGO
AUG 23–SEPT 22
A sexy spring awakening erupts
for you this month, but reserve
your energy for people who have
lasting potential. By the 21st, you’ll
see clearly who can make the
cut. Before then, practice a bit of
your famous restraint. By month’s
end, a casual connection could
be speeding toward something
that requires an official title.
LIBRA
SEPT 23–OCT 22
SCORPIO
OCT 23–NOV 21
Your first order of business this
month is to fall head over heels…
for yourself. After that, it will be
easier to support the VIPs in your
life. There will also be stricter
criteria for entry into your inner
circle after the 23rd, when your
planetary ruler, metamorphic
Pluto, moves into Aquarius.
SAGITTARIUS
NOV 22–DEC 21
Your star is rising this March,
VINTAGE CORAL FISH
CHOKER, HAUTE VICTOIRE,
$6,200, HAUTEVICTOIRE.COM
CAPRICORN
DEC 22–JAN 19
File an extension on hygge season,
because March will pull you back
to base. Reset your château to
support your current lifestyle,
whether that means turning the
home office into a yoga studio
or vice versa. Also, don’t assume
that everything’s copacetic within
your inner circle. Starting on the
7th, your ruling planet Saturn
embarks on a three-year journey
through your cooperation zone,
making it the perfect time to
negotiate new boundaries.
AQUARIUS
JAN 20–FEB 18
You have a gift for opening minds
with humor, and a touch of shock
value. Your freedom of speech
returns in a big way on March 7,
as restrictive Saturn leaves your
sign after three tough years. And
on March 23, Pluto takes a dive
into Aquarius. Plug in the mic
and broadcast your hot takes—
C OURTESY O F T HE D ESIGNE R.

During the double shot of both the
and slippery equinox and the Aries new moon
(occurring on the 20th and the 21st,
ideas and being respectively), you could finally seal
pulled in wrong the deal on an important contract
directions.” or turn a budding connection
into a bona fide love affair. Keep
—Yasmina Benazzou, putting in the effort, because
founder and designer, these relationships will intensify
Haute Victoire during the April 20 solar eclipse.
as a new moon awakens your or tap the social new moon to
fifth house of fame. Whatever has connect to local groups that do
you bubbling over with excitement
is the very material you need to
positive work in the community.
share with the world. This power
surge could also switch on your
love light, but don’t be impulsive. See the AstroTwins, Tali and
A plot twist may be revealed with
the April 20 solar eclipse that Ophira Edut, in Cosmic Love
influences your final decision. on Amazon Prime Video.