Professional Documents
Culture Documents
5 David J. Nemeth
Introduction to, and preceded, their full domestication and more careful atten-
tion to restrictions on their movements ranging from by mild to
Wild pigs (Sus scrofa) in the early Holocene were nimble, severe confinements. Managed restrictions emerged approxi-
fierce combatants for humans who sought them out for sport, mately 7000 BC, and rather simultaneously in both western and
as rites-of-passage and as flesh food in the hinterlands of their eastern parts of Eurasia. Were these innovations in domestic pig
isolated agrarian settlements. In contrast, pigs-as-pork in the rearing motivated by their valuation mainly ‘as-pork’?
Anthropocene have been reduced to unhealthy indolence while Inarguably meat protein is an important component of
awaiting slaughter in industrial factory farms. the human diet; for example, meat protein provides healthy
Of late, improving the welfare of pigs-as-pork in factory cells with essential amino acids. At the same time, it cannot be
farms has become a major campaign issue among organized ignored by pork consumers (much less denied by pork produc-
animal welfare activists. They also aim to improve pig–human ers) that there are abundant alternative sources of meat protein
relations in general by restoring a prevailing human perception available for human consumption as food in addition to the
that narrowly values ‘pigs-as-pork’ to a pre-Modern agrarian pork readily available worldwide: the most familiar are beef,
perception that more broadly values pigs ‘as-pigs’. This idealis- chicken, and fish, but there also many other animal protein sub-
tic goal challenges a dominant ‘pigs-are-pork’ paradigm that is stitutes and alternatives, including insects (Huis 2013). In addi-
presently shared by most factory farmers and the general public. tion to these are the other sources of many non-meat proteins:
The ‘pigs-as-pork’ paradigm is deeply entrenched and has thus nuts, beans, legumes, seeds, and so on. Pork is therefore not a
far proved not readily amenable to change. necessary component of a healthy human diet, even though this
is widely assumed to be the case. My own personal failure to dis-
Pigs-as-pork? cern between pigs-as-pigs and pigs-as pork and its implications
There are nearly eight billion humans worldwide and – to help changed dramatically when I joined Peace Corps in 1972 and
feed them – there are hundreds of millions of pigs-as-pork con- was sent to South Korea.
fined to factory farms around the world, awaiting slaughter.
Statistics reveal that pork is the most-consumed meat world-
wide today (FAO 2014). Forty per cent of pigs worldwide are
Discovering Pigs-as-pigs: My Cheju
in China, where a long history of productive relations between Island Epiphany
humans and their domestic pigs has been well-documented Not very long ago, the famous cultural materialist Marvin
(Simoons 1991; Gade, 2000). Whether Sus scrofa form domes- Harris summed up with certainty his perception of pig–human
tica in China was always valued exclusively or mainly ‘as-pork’ is relations throughout history: ‘Clearly, the whole essence of pig is
the topic I will now address. the production of meat for human nourishment and delectation’
The overwhelming opinion of scholars and the general pub- (Harris 1997). Apparently, asserting pigs-as-pork without any
lic at present is that pigs have been valued essentially ‘as-pork’ need for qualification was neither a controversial topic nor even
throughout recorded history, and less so, or never, valued ‘as- a challenging hypothesis when Harris made this truth claim
pigs’, e.g. as robust, intelligent animals with multiple uses to near the turn of the millennium. Millions of scholars and their
humankind. Wild pigs across Eurasia, the forbears of today’s students around the world simply accepted his ‘pigs-are-pork’
domestic pigs, were certainly robust. Wild pigs, omnivorous assumption as a statement of fact. I did until I arrived on South
herd animals and mammals (like humans) – but ungulates – Korea’s Cheju (Jeju) Island in 1973.
were hunted by humans and their dogs. This was prior to their My encounter with Cheju Island’s gregarious, hyperactive
increasing management by humans in the wild (their semi- domestic privy-pigs was a profound event in my life and perhaps
domestication). Their management in the wild (free environ- epiphanic, for it set into motion my journey down a life-long
ment) did not restrict their movements and can be contrasted research path that to this day remains a gift that keeps on giving.
49
I discovered that the domestic pigs on the island were perceived, customs. They wear boar skins [my italics] and live in leather
valued, and utilized by islanders primarily as-pigs (full of vital- houses. In winter they live in caves’ (T’angso, circa 661–663 CE).
ity) in contrast to as-pork (dead meat). Encountering privy-pigs We can deduce from these events and descriptions that
for the first time on this island, and then contemplating the T’amna envoys visiting China at that time were recurrent visi-
conditions of their captivity there, and on pig–human relations tors bearing tribute. They had ample opportunity during these
world wide and throughout history, I suddenly became awak- tribute missions (and, therefore, early on in the evolution of their
ened to the importance of the intrinsic value of life through their own productive subsistence agricultural systems) to observe
example. I was forced to examine my basic assumptions about and experience the Han Chinese pigsty–privy structures already
human food-ways in space and time and how it was that I came in place. We can assume here for discussion purposes that they
to perceive pigs-as-pork in the first place. respected the wisdoms of their hosts and adopted pigsty-privy
practices on Cheju Island. They seem to have imported their
Site and Situation breed of privy-pig from China (Choi et al. 2014).
Cheju Island is an isolated and long-inhabited dormant volcano
in the northern reaches of the East China Sea. Soon after my More Empirical Observations
arrival, I discovered thousands of functioning privy-pig struc- The straw-covered privy structures I encountered are on the
tures attached to escape-proof corrals each containing one left in Figures 5.1A and 5.1B. The pig shelter is on the right in
or two privy-pigs. Most of these structures were crudely con- the rear of the pen in Figure 5.1A (although the model has no
structed (as seen in Figure 5.1A). Their archetype, I eventually apparent pig shelter in its architecture). The pig in Figure 5.1A
learned, had remarkable provenance and antiquity as well as stands with its fore-hooves in its crude, stone-hewn food dish
distant origins. while waiting in expectation of the next food delivery. There was
invariably one bowl per pen.
Cheju Island Privy-pig Trait-complex Origins I observed rural Cheju Islanders tossing all manner of
Functioning pigsty-privies are no longer extant on Cheju Island. unused organic wastes toward the food bowls. The alert and
They suffered a swift extinction by a draconian government perpetually hungry omnivorous pigs voraciously consumed
decree which banned them during the 1970s. How long were everything offered. Islanders had to train piglets to eat human
these functioning pigsty-privies an integral part of the produc- faeces, and human faeces seemed to be the main diet of these
tive subsistence Cheju Island peasant landscape before being privy-pigs. A reader of some of my earliest published researches
outlawed? DNA tests of pig bones excavated from island sites on the Cheju Island privy-pigs reported:
occupied 2000 years ago reveal the presence of both wild and Nemeth points out the consequences for archaeological interpre-
domestic pigs. Thus, pig domestication on the island was prac- tations of the American mindset that considers pigs only as food.
tised more than 2000 years ago (Kim et al. 2011). Productive He shows that on Cheju Island in Korea, even though pigs may
pig–human proximity and relations on Cheju Island can be char- eventually be eaten, they functioned in the recent past as trans-
acterized as initially predator–prey relations, as was characteris- formers of human waste into fertilizers as well as meat, with the
tic of early pig–human relations throughout Paleolithic Eurasia. pigsty–privy an important part of the ecosystem. Furthermore, in
Chinese T’ang dynasty (618–906 AD) histories relate that as considering the role of pigsty-privies in the ecosystem of disease,
early as 316–317 CE the tribal chief of Cheju Island (then called rather than being an unsanitary practice that promoted illness,
‘T’amna’) paid tribute at the Chinese court. These visitors were they helped keep some endemic parasites in check. This example
described as follows: ‘The people [of T’amna] follow humble of the need to extend our notions about pigs is especially useful
50
as a cautionary tale for archaeological explanations involving the wool may be more valuable than their flesh, or cattle that are
role of pigs in early domestication, as well as their place in urban kept for their milk or for use as draft animals, pigs have had no
economies and the rise of complex societies. (Nelson 1998: 1998). primary nonmeat uses [my italics]’ (Gade 2000). Thus, pig-as-
My conclusion about the valuation of pigs-as-pigs in ancient pork remains the dominant paradigm for their valuation in the
and medieval peasant subsistence agro-ecosystems on Cheju present, and is still applied to interpreting the significance of
Island in Korea are much in concert with those of Albarella, who pig–human relations in the past. This pigs-as-pork paradigm
has published on the valuation of pigs-as-pigs in Northwestern mentality today prevails to shape and to justify the unhealthy
Europe peasant agro-ecosystems. He acknowledges (Albarella welfare state in today’s modern factory farms.
2007) that pigs in medieval European agro-ecosystems were val-
ued in part as pork, but adds this caveat: ‘It would, however, be Speaking for the Pigs: Five Freedoms
grossly unfair to regard them as mere meat producing machines; ‘Rural dwelling is no longer tied to rural working and the popu-
pigs were much more than that.’ He goes on to itemize their lation has become several steps detached from food production.
additional value to humans: ‘They were living creatures that Thus pig keeping is no longer familiar and the vast majority of
contributed substantially to the shaping of the medieval com- the [human] population has little idea how pigs are now reared,
munity, to its organization, settlement, movements, everyday slaughtered and processed’ (Marchant-Forde 2009).
activities, seasonal cycles, entertainment, and also feelings.’ Contemporary animal welfare advocates like Marchant-
Albarella also quotes Wiseman (2000): ‘It has been writ- Forde have taken it upon themselves to inform and persistently
ten that pigs’ role as a major contributor to the development of update the public about what they perceive of as persisting farm-
medieval society has rarely been acknowledged’, and proceeds to ing practices that have negative impacts on the welfare state of
conclude: ‘It is a fair point, which should remind us of how much those farm animals now confined, reared, and rendered into
domestic animals have helped in our history, and how little they human food resources – including pigs raised as pork – awaiting
have received in exchange’ (in Albarella 2007). slaughter on factory farms. Their reminders are often harsh and
Subsequent to my observations and experiences among are delivered in various communications media – for example,
Cheju Islanders while in the Peace Corps, I increasingly began in graphic art (Figure 5.2).
to wonder the extent to which initial interpreters of the terra- In factory farms, as Sue Coe represents them below, an
cotta models in Chinese tombs (see Figure 5.1B) failed to realize unsympathetic but cruelly efficient machine environment and
they were pigsty-privies? For example, in one popular history the absence of any living space allocated for pigs-as-pork await-
book there is a photo of an excavated tomb model of a ‘pigsty’ ing slaughter prevails. The abuse and slaughter occurs far from
accompanied with this caption: public awareness, yet apparently with tacit public approval. The
Ceramic Model of a Pigsty. Chinese farmers regularly raised pigs, assumption conveyed in the illustration is that few humans
keeping them in walled-off pens and feeding them scraps. This and especially pork-eaters have any overriding motivations to
Han Dynasty model of such a pigsty was placed in a tomb to repre- attempt to achieve healthy and humane balances between pro-
sent the material goods one hoped the deceased would enjoy in the duction efficiency and animal welfare in factory farms.
afterlife’ (McKay et al. 2011). Just so, animal welfare activists have taken upon themselves the
It seemed possible that even the archaeologists who early role of ‘speaking for the pigs’ to educate the ‘careless’ public about
on interpreted these tomb models as ‘pigsties’ for raising pigs- these abuses, one of which is deprivation of living space for pigs
as-pork were slow to realize or publicize that they were in fact awaiting slaughter. Animal welfare advocates speaking for pigs
not pigsties attached to gravity-fed silos, or granaries. I asked proselytize that Sus scrofa domesticus is an intelligent, sentient,
myself if a massive misperception of pigs-as-pork in the present and gregarious herd animal, and prone to play in captivity where
and applied to interpreting the past might be entrenched to the permissive space allocation characterizes the prevailing conditions
degree that it clouded the perception and judgement of archae- of their managed rearing (Horback 2014; Marino & Colvin 2015).
ologists and museum curators and scholars like Harris (1997), Crary (2013) writes that it is due to the efforts of the Farm
Kim (1994) and Gade (2000) below? Animal Welfare Council of the United Kingdom that ‘it has
been possible to draw up first principles of good welfare for ani-
mals whether on the farm, in transit, or at the place of slaughter’
Occam’s Razor Misapplied? Crary (2013). These ‘first principles’ manifest in their manifesto
The Korean archaeologist Kim Seong-og (1994) concluded his as ‘Five Freedoms’. These address both the physical fitness and
own detailed analysis of pigs in the food production systems of the mental suffering of pigs and other animals raised destined
traditional East Asian subsistence agro-ecosystems as ‘mainly for mass slaughter in factory farms and they comprise ‘a com-
as a source of nutrition’. Thus, his findings further validated the prehensive check-list to assess the strengths and weaknesses
prevailing, long-held assumption of pigs-as-pork in East Asia of any husbandry system’. For example: freedom from thirst,
disseminated in the literature by Harris (1997) cited above, i.e. hunger and malnutrition, discomfort, pain, injury and disease,
‘Clearly, the whole essence of pig is the production of meat for fear and distress. Among these ‘Five Freedoms’ is the freedom
human nourishment and delectation.’ Also, cultural geographer to express normal behaviour by providing sufficient space [italics
Daniel Gade writing in 2000 (p. 539) persisted in reproducing mine] (Webster 2001).
this dominant pigs-as-pork discourse as recently as the turn of Spokespersons for the factory farm industry vaunt the suc-
the present millennium by claiming that ‘Unlike sheep, whose cess of their mass production of pigs-as-pork in factory farms
51
as an achievement of their space-efficient management of the How and why have pig–human relations deteriorated over mil-
reproduction of pigs-as-pork in a hard-fought battle against lennia from the Paleolithic to the present alarming conditions
starvation. Factory farmers claim that mass pigs-as-pork in the post-modern Holocene, and in spite of these dual ironies:
production is space-efficient and both ‘feeds the world’ and (1) there are now more pigs throughout the world than at any
improves the human nutritional condition: e.g. ‘We can’t let all previous era, and (2) the close proximity of pig populations and
these animals roam free – it’s not an economically sustainable human populations has never been more concentrated? The next
system . . . [although] we have to fulfill our obligations to these section of this chapter will briefly recap the story of the transi-
animals, . . . is it fair for us to starve the world?’ (Dr Janeen Salak- tion of pigs-as-pigs to pigs-as-pork that characterize the chang-
Johnson, Professor of Animal Science, University of Illinois, ing relations between pig and human relations in time and space.
quoted in Crary 2013).
This point of view in support of rational-instrumental ‘best Space, Time and Pig
practices’ in factory farming is obviously hyperbolic (in defence I have described in previous publications what I have observed
of these profitable operations), but hardly convincing in the and experienced first-hand on Cheju Island, and then came
face of many credible arguments to the contrary that have been to believe to be a human–pig symbiotic (or mutualistic) agro-
advanced by contemporary animal welfare advocates. Most ecological trait-complex embodied in the pigsty–privy’s func-
important, the world’s human population is not starving for lack tional and symbolic architecture. I eventually interpreted the
of food. Enough food is produced globally to feed the estimated pigsty–privy in the context of the profound achievement of
total of 7.5 billion humans according to current FAO current Korean Neo-Confucian ideology. The pigsty–privy was a sig-
statistics (FAO 2015). From the point of view of agricultural nificant, insightful element of a ‘sincere’ (Kr. song) landscape
technology, food shortages for existing and growing human ‘inhabited by a ‘virtuous’ (Kr. in) people (Nemeth 1987). I
populations – far into the future – can be solved by applied food accompanied my narrative description of the pigsty–privy in
science and technology. that book with the following illustrative model, incorporat-
However, it is the prevailing perspective across the agricul- ing ideas inspired in part by reading the works of Nash (1967),
tural sciences that any human food shortage ‘problem’ is not a Stilgoe (1976) and Stevens (1974).
technical problem but a problem created by cultural, socioeco- The wisdom of Neo-Confucian ideology applied to healthy
nomic and political issues (Buringh & Dudal 1987). The ‘food- welfare state for humans and pigs inferred in Figure 5.3 is to carve
shortage’ narrative is in part a prevailing social construction of an axis mundi settlement out of the wilderness (far left) and sys-
the pigs-as-pork story that serves the interests of factory farm- tematically grow it from an incipient peasant (subsistence) land-
ing and works against the arguments of those animal welfare scape (visible productive agro-ecosystem) into a mature peasant
activists who critique pork-producing factory farming for (subsistence) landscape (visible productive agro-ecosystem)
depriving pigs-as-pork of healthy living space in factory farms and then strive to preserve it as such into perpetuity (far right,
while awaiting their slaughter. middle). Failure to preserve the mature peasant agro-ecosystem
In sum, the factory farm lobby’s misinformation and disin- might result in its reverting to wilderness (far right, top). Or,
formation add up to help explain the present-day general pub- choosing to modernize through industrialization (far right, bot-
lic’s abject lack of concern and motivation to aggressively seek tom) is to choose to fail: industrial modernization, as history
a remedy for those factory farm conditions contributing to the reveals, sets into motion disruptive changes that undermine the
unhealthy welfare state of pigs-as-pork awaiting slaughter. In productive achievement and dynamic equilibrium of the mature
sum, critiques by animal welfare activists of pork-industry fac- peasant landscape. The outcome of the processes of industrial
tory farming lack credibility and are thus far proving ineffectual. modernization is the deliberate transformation of achieved
52
Is
preserved
Incipient Mature
peasant peasant
landscape landscape Becomes
complicated
TIME
natural complexity (the mature peasant landscape) into the arti- Figure 5.4 Diagram of the face of an antique medium-size feng shui compass.
The location of the boar zodiac symbol on the compass is encircled. Photo by
ficial complicatedness of a self-destructive dystopia. David J. Nemeth.
The Cheju Island pigsty–privy I first observed and experi-
enced in 1973 was an achievement of the mature subsistence
peasant landscape, but doomed to failure by the deliberately connects Heaven and Earth and thus comprises a conduit for
disruptive government-implemented Saemaul Undong ‘New ‘heaven’s breath’ to infuse Earth with potentially propitious sites
Village’ movement in an industrializing, modernizing South whereby, once located by a compass-wielding feng shui expert,
Korea. The hard-earned mature peasant landscape shaped over a potentially propitious habitat for humans on Earth is ‘born’.
many centuries by its age-old productive subsistence peasant So, in the context of a traditional agrarian Neo-Confucian
agro-ecosystem is now extinct. cosmology, how would a ‘virtuous’ peasant inhabiting a ‘sin-
cere’ landscape on Cheju Island treat a pig? The answer is: as-a-
Pig–Human Relations: A Cosmological Casualty pig; with respect, and with empathy mixed with awe: ‘Even the
of Modernization in East Asia prosaic pig is said to bear seven spots on its hind legs resembling
The feng shui (K. p’ungsu) surveying compass along with the the seven stars’ of the celestial dipper (Rufus 1913).
Neo-Confucian ideology and cosmology that it embodied are –
along with profound pig–human relations –also simultaneous
Modernity in the West, Land-use Change, and Loss
victims of Modernity in East Asia, in South Korea, and on Cheju of Living Space for Pigs-as-pork
Island. It is instructive and a profound exercise for the purpose Modernization during the Anthropocene also complicated and
of contemplation on pig–human relations to overlay the face of rendered into extinction mature peasant landscapes that had
the feng-shui compass (Figure 5.4) upon the achievement of the once evolved in Europe. Northern Europeans, and the inhab-
‘Mature peasant landscape’ depicted in Figure 5.3. itants of England, for example, also deployed pigsty-privies
The overlay offers some cross-cultural insights into the pro- as integral parts of a productive pre-Modern agro-ecosystem,
found significance of the compass to Neo-Confucian peoples although it is hard to find an educated Englander these days
in East Asia prior to their Modernization. Space, Time, and the willing to validate this unsavory narrative. In a nutshell, indus-
Myriad Things are united as a single comprehensive, integrative, trializing humans worldwide have failed to deliberately act
cosmology symbolized on the compass face. Sus scrofa is prom- successfully against their material self-interest by producing –
inently displayed there, not as-pork but as a force to be reck- rather than rejecting – labour-saving devices and unmanage-
oned with in conjunction with space and time toward achieving able and ecologically destructive complications (Nemeth 1987).
success in the human search for ideal habitats to nurture their One outcome of this downward ecological spiral triggered
‘sincerity’ and ‘virtue’. at the onset of the Industrial Revolution was to presage the
Note that the axis mundi in the mature peasant repre- invention of pork-producing factory farming associated with
sented in Figure 5.3 is represented by ‘The Well’ at the centre land-use change and the abandonment of any respect for the
of the feng shui compass, and that the symbol of Sus scrofa from intrinsic value of pig life. The instrumental-rational logic of
the Chinese zodiac is in close proximity to ‘The Well’, implying its the Anthropocene redefined pigs-as-pork ‘essential’ for human
significance in relation to the search for human perfection. ‘The consumption and justifies the worldwide spread of pork-
Well’ conceptualized from a Neo-Confucian 3D perspective producing factory farms that dramatically deprive pigs-as-pork
53
Thus, while factory farmers are aware of ways to improve Assuming Zygmunt Bauman is on to something with his
pigs-as-pork welfare in factory farms, animal welfare activist concept of ‘liquid modernity’, the emergence of relative space–
case studies ‘speaking for the pigs’ argue with conviction that cost time convergence at this stage of the Anthropocene allows that
considerations and the profit motive nearly everywhere have nul- the chances of pigs flying and/or human’s changing their atti-
lified any widespread implementation of these ‘best practices’. tudes about Sus scrofa from pigs-as-pork back to pigs-as-pigs
And so, in response to question: (1) ‘How much space and are about equally absurd – as well as equally possible.
time do pigs need to be pigs?’, the ethical answer would be ‘Much
more than they are allocated by the cruel and frugal forces of Conclusion: If Pigs Could Fly . . . What Then?
economic growth ideology at this time in history’; and to ques- I have argued in this chapter that pigs ‘as-pigs’ no less than
tion (2) ‘How much space and time do pigs need to be pork?’, the humans ‘as-humans’ require living space to achieve healthy
same forces would argue ‘As little as it takes for our factory farms productive lives. Pigs without living space in factory farms
to maximize efficiency and profitability.’ at this stage of the Anthropocene continue to live in an
Such instrumental-rational responses having become unhealthy welfare state. If pigs could fly, would their lives be
entrenched as the ‘absolutist space and time logic of the worth living?
Anthropocene’ are, however, rendered nonsensical in the con- What could be more provocatively absurd and thus post-
text of post-modernity’s fast-evolving relativist space–time modern than flying pigs? Humans have conjured up this flying
relations. Animal welfare activism in the Internet Age reaches pig scenario for ages. The proposition ‘If pigs could fly . . .’ is usu-
an unprecedented (in size and diversity) audience of dysra- ally considered an adynaton (the exaggeration of an impossible
tional/relativist thinkers. Pork-producing factory farms as we event). However, at present, pigs do fly when they accompany
know them are already verging on the provocative absurdity humans into airspace.
depicted in Sue Coe’s dystopian artistic renditions. The phrase can also be construed to be a counterfactual
conjecture (an unprecedented event, but nevertheless within
Summary the realm of possibility). As a counterfactual, the possibility of
This article has argued – drawing on personal observations in pigs-as-pork taking flight from the severe conditions of their
the field, and deploying models of East Asian Neo-Confucian restricted confinement in a factory farm is not utterly foreclosed –
cosmology and the Western experience of changing pig–human although escape into airspace by a pig of its own accord as
relations in agro-ecosystems ranging from the Neolithic to envisioned in Figure 5.6 remains far-fetched at the present time.
the present Anthropocene – that pigs were perceived and This chapter has interpreted the long history of pig–human
respected as-pigs prior to the Anthropocene, in contrast with relations documented by Albarella (2007) as beginning well in
their being perceived exclusively as-pork with the onset of the relational space–time, but evolving badly for pigs during abso-
Anthropocene. Pigs perceived as-pigs in the relational space– lute space and time. That relationship viewed in retrospect has
time of pre-Anthropocene agro-ecosystems became pigs per- been both remarkable and paradoxical. At present, in post-
ceived as-pork in absolute space–time that coincided with modern relativist space anything is possible – but few pigs are
the onset of Anthropocene agro-ecosystems culminating in as yet escaping the hellacious conditions of their living deaths in
Industrial-Age mass pork-producing factory farms. pork-producing factory farms.
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