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Perspective on Cadmium and Lead in Cocoa and Chocolate


Eileen Abt* and Lauren Posnick Robin

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ABSTRACT: Cocoa and chocolate can contain cadmium (Cd) and lead (Pb) from natural and anthropogenic sources. This
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perspective provides background on the origin, occurrence, and factors affecting Cd and Pb levels in chocolate products as well as
ongoing international efforts to mitigate Cd and Pb in these popular foods, particularly the higher Cd levels observed in some cocoa
and chocolate originating from parts of Latin America. Information on factors contributing to higher Cd levels in Latin America,
including elevated soil Cd, is increasing, but more work is needed to identify successful mitigation methods.
KEYWORDS: cadmium, lead, cocoa, chocolate, mitigation

■ INTRODUCTION
Cocoa and chocolate are products manufactured from dried
The United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has
published a guidance document, Guidance for Industry: Lead
and fermented cocoa beans, the seeds of the cacao tree, in Candy Likely To Be Consumed by Small Children, which
Theobroma cacao L. The cacao tree is a perennial that grows in recommends a maximum level (ML) for Pb in candy, including
tropical regions (within 10° North and 10° South of the chocolate candy, of 0.1 mg/kg.8
equator), primarily in West Africa (e.g., Côte d’Ivoire and Long-term dietary exposure to elevated levels of Cd is most
Ghana), Latin America (e.g., Brazil, Ecuador, and Peru), and strongly associated with adverse effects on the kidneys in
Southeast Asia (e.g., Indonesia and Papua New Guinea). humans, including decreased kidney function.9,10 In 2013, the
Cocoa beans from West Africa constitute about 75% of the Joint Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO)/World
international cocoa bean supply.1,2 Cocoa production has huge Health Organization (WHO) Expert Committee on Food
economic significance, especially in developing countries. In Additives (JECFA) assessed Cd in chocolate and cocoa
certain regions of Latin America, cocoa has successfully products (as well as Cd from other foods). JECFA estimated
replaced coca (the crop used to make cocaine).3 the potential dietary exposure to Cd from all foods, including
There are four major cocoa cultivars for chocolate for high consumers of products containing cocoa and its
production: Criollo, Forastero, Nacional, and Trinitario. derivatives, and concluded that, for these high consumers of
These cultivars, which grow in various geographic areas, have cocoa and cocoa products, Cd consumption was 30−69% of
cocoa beans with differing flavor profiles. The Forastero the provisional tolerable monthly intake (PTMI) (25 μg/kg of
cultivar, which comprises the majority of cocoa beans body weight) for adults and 96% of the PTMI for children
produced, is primarily cultivated in West Africa, with some aged 0.5−12 years. The committee noted that “this total Cd
cultivation in Latin America. The Criollo, Nacional, and dietary exposure for high consumers of cocoa and cocoa
Trinitario cultivars, which grow in Latin America, are known products was likely to be overestimated and did not consider it
for their “fine flavor” and make up about 5% of the to be of concern”.11
international supply of cocoa beans.1,4 The FDA estimated dietary exposure of children to Cd and
Fine flavor cocoas are known for their desirable taste and Pb from 2014 to 2016 based on Cd and Pb concentration data
color. The fine flavor cocoas are used to produce gourmet dark from the FDA Total Diet Study and food consumption data
chocolate with a higher percent cocoa content, including from the National Health and Nutrition Examination Survey
single-origin niche products.1,5 Cocoa bean flavor is a key and determined that dietary Cd and Pb from all sweets (i.e.,
characteristic of cocoa and chocolate quality and depends candy, gelatin, jelly, sugar, and syrup), including chocolate,
largely upon bean genotype as well as postharvest treatment comprises 1.2 and 3.5% of total dietary intake, respectively.12
and industrial processing.4 On the basis of this analysis, cocoa and chocolate were not
There are frequent reports of the detection of the metals
cadmium (Cd) and lead (Pb) in cocoa and chocolate products.
Special Issue: Highlights of AGFD program at 258th
These metals come from natural and anthropogenic sources in
ACS National Meeting, San Diego
the environment and from processing. Pb exposure is
associated with various health effects that include neurological Received: December 30, 2019
and behavioral effects, hypertension and other cardiovascular Revised: April 15, 2020
effects, and reduced renal function.6,7 Elevated blood Pb levels Accepted: April 15, 2020
in children can be associated with neurodevelopmental effects.6 Published: April 15, 2020
This article not subject to U.S.
Copyright. Published XXXX by the https://dx.doi.org/10.1021/acs.jafc.9b08295
American Chemical Society A J. Agric. Food Chem. XXXX, XXX, XXX−XXX
Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry pubs.acs.org/JAFC Perspective

Figure 1. Major steps in industrial cocoa and chocolate production.

major sources of Cd and Pb dietary exposure relative to all is an important factor to consider when evaluating Cd and Pb
foods. levels in retail products in relation to labeled percent cocoa.
There is considerable interest in understanding and Data on cocoa bean processing indicate that Cd partitions
addressing the presence of Cd and Pb in cocoa and chocolate, mainly into the non-fat cocoa solids, while Pb partitions into
particularly Cd, because Cd levels in cocoa beans from certain both the non-fat and fat cocoa solids, with a smaller percentage
areas of Latin America can be higher than in beans from other (10−15%) partitioning into the fat solids (cocoa butter).14
regions worldwide. Chocolate products made from these beans While both Cd and Pb levels are higher in dark chocolate than
can exceed existing limits set by various national authorities, milk chocolate, because dark chocolate contains more non-fat
including the European Union, hampering trade. This cocoa solids, Cd concentrations are more strongly correlated
perspective provides an overview of cocoa and chocolate with non-fat cocoa solids than Pb concentrations, as a result of
production, reviews factors that influence the levels of Cd and the partitioning of Cd primarily into these non-fat cocoa solids.
Pb in cocoa beans and chocolate, and describes ongoing
research to mitigate the presence of these toxic elements. ■ OCCURRENCE OF CD AND PB IN COCOA AND

■ COCOA AND CHOCOLATE PRODUCTION


The primary steps of cocoa and chocolate production are
CHOCOLATEINFLUENCE OF PERCENT COCOA
AND GEOGRAPHIC ORIGIN
Two well-documented factors influencing Cd and Pb in cocoa
shown in Figure 1. After harvesting and removal from pods, the and chocolate are the percent cocoa content of the product
pulp- or mucilage-covered cocoa beans are fermented and and the origin of the cocoa beans. A number of studies have
dried prior to processing.1 Fermentation, a 3−5 day process, is demonstrated a moderate to strong correlation between Cd
responsible in part for producing the flavor notes in chocolate. and Pb levels and percent cocoa.15−18 For example, Villa et al.
During processing, the cocoa beans are cleaned by various analyzed Cd and Pb in Brazilian chocolate and observed
means, including sieving, aspiration, and magnets to remove correlations between Cd and Pb levels and percent cocoa, with
dust, stones, and pieces of metal or other debris. Subsequently, R2 values of 0.907 and 0.955, respectively.17 Abt et al.
shells are removed, and beans are broken (winnowing) into examined 126 cocoa and chocolate product samples from
smaller fragments known as cocoa nibs. Beans and nibs are Africa, Latin America, and unidentified origins and found
roasted to develop their flavors and then ground and heated to Spearman correlations between percent cocoa content (on the
produce cocoa liquor.13 basis of product label) and Cd and Pb to be 0.71 and 0.52,
Cocoa liquor is an intermediate product, which is respectively.15 Similarly, other published literature has reported
subsequently processed into a non-fat component, cocoa higher levels of Cd and Pb in dark chocolate than milk
solids, and a fat component, cocoa butter.13 Various portions chocolate, which is attributed to the higher percent cocoa
of cocoa liquor, cocoa solids, and cocoa butter are combined solids in dark chocolate.15,17,19
with other ingredients, for example, sugar, vanilla, and milk, to Geographic origin has also been shown to influence Cd and
make finished chocolate products. Processors may combine Pb levels in cocoa and chocolate. Table 1 summarizes findings
different sources and amounts of these raw materials to from studies that examined both Cd and Pb levels in cocoa and
produce the finished product.1 Some producers identify the chocolate, including information on the geographic origin of
percent cocoa on the label of chocolate products. The percent cocoa beans.
cocoa on a label can indicate either non-fat cocoa solids or In general, cocoa and chocolate from Latin America (with
total (i.e., fat and non-fat) cocoa solids. The fact that percent the exception of Brazil) have higher Cd levels than products
cocoa labeling may refer to either non-fat or total cocoa solids from Africa, while Cd levels in products from Asia tend to fall
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Table 1. Summary of Selected Studies Examining Cd and Pb Concentrations in Cocoa and Chocolate Products Including
Information on the Geographic Origina
mean ± standard deviation (n), unless otherwise noted
Cd (μg/kg) Pb (μg/kg)
study product type Africa Asia Latin America Africa Asia Latin America
Abt et al.15 milk chocolate 42.3 ± 24.9 97.0 ± 96.4 11.0 ± 8.9 13.9 ± 19.4
(n = 7) (n = 12) (n = 7) (n = 12)
dark chocolate 105.4 ± 107.3 424.7 ± 292.4 27.2 ± 13.7 24.9 ± 25.7
(n = 8) (n = 26) (n = 8) (n = 26)
cocoa nibs 621.2 ± 384.6 3.6 ± 4.2
(n = 7) (n = 7)
cocoa powder 122.7 ± 196.2 1349.8 ± 919.7 61.9 ± 51.4 170.1 ± 121.7
(n = 6) (n = 13) (n = 6) (n = 13)
Abt et al.22 milk chocolate 151.4 ± 195.6 20.1 ± 7.7
(n = 6) (n = 6)
dark chocolate 164.4 ± 141.7 24.2 ± 14.7
(n = 10) (n = 10)
cocoa nibs 331.1 10.7
(n = 1) (n = 1)
cocoa powder 403.8 ± 88.2 196.4 ± 203.4
(n = 3) (n = 3)
Bertoldi et al.20 dark chocolate 144 615 ± 398 8.3 23.5 ± 25.0
(n = 1) (n = 8) (n = 1) (n = 8)
West Africa South America West Africa South America
dark chocolate 201 ± 31 142 ± 51 19.7 ± 7.9 11.0 ± 8.1
(n = 2) (n = 2) (n = 2) (n = 2)
East Africa Central America East Africa Central America
Dahiya et al.23 chocolate 244 (10−2730)b 1915 (236−8040)b
(n = 23) (n = 23)
Indiac Indiac
Devi et al.24 chocolate 190 ± 270 1820 ± 1340
(n = 22) (n = 22)
Indiac Indiac
Iwegbue44 chocolate 70 ± 60d 80 ± 80d
Nigeria Nigeria
Jalbani et al.25 chocolate 353 ± 25 2480 ± 190
(n = 20) (n = 20)
Pakistanc Pakistanc
Lee and Low19 chocolate 320 1500
(milk/dark) (n = 18) (n = 18)
Malaysia Malaysia
Mounicou et al.14 cocoa powder 133 ± 20 602 ± 73 125 ± 7 52 ± 10 229 ± 69 150 ± 9
(n = 3) (n = 7) (n = 1)e (n = 3) (n = 7) (n = 1)e
Ghana Malaysia Bahia, Brazil Ghana Malaysia Bahia, Brazil
cocoa powder 94 ± 14 170 ± 25 191 ± 39 769 ± 154
(n = 3) (n = 1)e (n = 3) (n = 1)e
Ivory Coast Habuna, Brazil Ivory Coast Habuna, Brazil
cocoa powder 738 ± 53 197 ± 0
(n = 1)e (n = 1)e
Ecuador Ecuador
cocoa powder 533 ± 16 11 ± 3
(n = 1)e (n = 1)e
El Oro, Ecuador El Oro, Ecuador
cocoa powder 1833 ± 20 173 ± 12
(n = 3) (n = 3)
Venezuela Venezuela
Vanderschueren et al.21 chocolate 200 ± 110 120 ± 70 330 ± 300 <20f <20f 20f
(n = 33) (n = 14) (n = 22) (n = 33) (n = 14) (n = 22)
Central America Central America
chocolate 580 ± 520 <LOQf
(n = 69) (n = 69)
South America South America

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Table 1. continued
mean ± standard deviation (n), unless otherwise noted
Cd (μg/kg) Pb (μg/kg)
study product type Africa Asia Latin America Africa Asia Latin America
Villa et al.17 milk chocolate 10.6g 27.6g
(n = 9) (n = 9)
Brazil Brazil
dark chocolate 47.8g 68.5g
(n = 11) (n = 11)
Brazil Brazil
a
Continent of origin is noted in publications. Information on region/country of origin of cocoa beans is provided here when noted in publications.
b
minimum−maximum. cPublication indicates that products were purchased locally, but origin of cocoa beans is not indicated. dSample size is not
specified. eEach sample is analyzed in duplicate or triplicate. fMedian. gMean of means is calculated for presentation in this table.

between those from Latin America and Africa.14,15,20−22 Table 2). Soil pH is considered the most important factor
(Several studies have identified lower Cd concentrations in affecting Cd phytoavailability; as soil pH increases, Cd
cocoa beans and chocolate from Brazil compared to other areas
of Latin America.)14,17,20 In contrast, Pb concentrations do not Table 2. Summary of Soil Properties and Agronomic
follow this same geographic pattern. For example, Bertoldi et Factors Affecting Cd Concentrations
al. found that Cd levels in South American cocoa beans were
soil properties/
significantly higher than those in West African cocoa beans, agronomic factors effect on the Cd concentration in cocoa beans
while there was no significant difference in Pb levels based on
pH increase in soil pH decreases Cd absorption
geographic origin of cocoa beans.20 Bertoldi et al. stated that
salinity (chloride decrease in soil chloride concentration decreases
Pb in chocolate may result primarily from production process concentration) Cd absorption
contamination, with a smaller Pb contribution from the raw soil zinc increase in soil Zn decreases Cd absorption
beans.20 Vanderschueren et al., who used elemental finger- soil amendments addition of biochar/lime decreases Cd absorption
printing to trace the origin of chocolates, found that Latin (biochar/lime)
American chocolate had significantly higher levels of Cd in soil cadmium increase in soil Cd increases plant Cd
comparison to African and Asian chocolates, while Pb levels concentration
were not found to be associated with origin.21 Like Bertoldi et
al., Vanderschueren et al. concluded that Pb in chocolates solubility decreases. Optimal growth of cacao trees occurs at
likely results from the production process instead of the cocoa a soil pH of 5.0−7.5,32 and when soil pH is greater than 6, Cd
nibs.21 Several studies in Table 1 found Pb levels to be binds with organic matter, Fe and Mn hydrous oxides, and clay
substantially higher than Cd levels; these authors attributed the minerals in soil,31,33 reducing its phytoavailability. A number of
higher Pb levels to contamination of raw materials (e.g., cocoa field studies have been conducted on cacao trees in
beans) and contamination during manufacturing.19,23−25 Ecuador,26,34 Honduras,27,35 Peru,36 and Trinidad and
Reasons for the geographic differences observed for Cd and Tobago,32,37 examining the relationship between soil and
Pb levels in cocoa and chocolate are discussed below.


agronomic factors and Cd phytoavailability. Adding liming
material, an alkaline substance comprised of calcium carbonate
SOURCES OF CD AND PB CONTAMINATION AND that increases the pH of soil, can decrease soil Cd
FACTORS AFFECTING CD AND PB LEVELS IN phytoavailability, thus reducing Cd concentrations in cacao
COCOA BEANS trees.32,37,38 However, the addition of liming material to soil
Cd and Pb in cocoa and chocolate come from both natural and can also reduce Zn phytoavailability.
anthropogenic sources in the environment as well as from Zn is chemically similar to Cd and competes with Cd for
processing. Soil Cd appears to be an important driver of Cd uptake by the cacao tree. Uptake of Cd depends upon Zn soil
levels in cocoa and chocolate. Soil Cd concentration may result content, and cacao trees take up more Cd when the soil
from geological sources, including volcanic sediments, mining content of Zn is lower. Thus, Zn soil content can be increased
activities, and use of phosphate-based fertilizers or municipal to reduce Cd uptake by cacao trees.38 Soil salinity (specifically
sludge in agriculture.14,26−28 Pb in soil may stem from naturally chloride ions) also plays a role in Cd solubility, and tree uptake
occurring concentrations in areas where the cacao trees are of Cd is thought to be greater with increased chloride
grown, agricultural practices (i.e., fertilizer application, use of concentrations based on studies in other crops.39 Use of soil
lead-containing pesticides, or soil amendments), and atmos- organic matter (e.g., livestock manure and biochar) has been
pheric deposition of Pb from industrial or vehicular shown to reduce Cd mobility through adsorption or complex-
emissions.29,30 ation of Cd on the soil organic matter.40 Recent application of
The patterns of uptake of Cd and Pb from soils by cacao Cd isotope analyses to assess Cd profiles and sources in soil in
trees are very different. Cd is more mobile in soils than Pb and Latin America may help provide additional information on
is readily absorbed by the cacao tree.31 The fraction of soil Cd factors affecting Cd concentrations in cocoa beans, such as the
available to cacao trees for uptake (phytoavailability) depends potential role of cocoa trees in concentrating Cd in the upper
upon various factors that include soil pH, concentrations of soil layers.41
metals competing for uptake [e.g., zinc (Zn)], soil salinity (as a Pb, in contrast to Cd, has low soil mobility because Pb binds
result of chloride ions), soil organic matter, and metal- strongly to organic and/or colloidal materials, although this
adsorbing iron (Fe) and manganese (Mn) hydrous oxides (see mobility may be affected by many variables, including pH,
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cation-exchange capacity, mineral content, and biological and intake data, percent of PTMI, and percent of possible rejected
microbial conditions. Pb absorbed by the cacao tree may be samples. Since beginning its work, CCCF has established Cd
retained in the roots and may not always be translocated to the MLs for two categories of chocolate: from ≥50 to <70% total
rest of the tree.42,43 cocoa solids on a dry matter basis (0.8 mg/kg) and ≥70% total
Pb contamination of cocoa beans after harvest occurs during cocoa solids on a dry matter basis (0.9 mg/kg). Development
fermentation and drying (because cocoa beans may be exposed of additional Cd MLs is under consideration, and the
to Pb-containing soil and dust or other atmospheric committee will consider the “concept of proportionality”
emissions), during shelling and winnowing (because pieces between the percent cocoa solids in the cocoa and chocolate
of cacao bean shells contaminated with Pb can contaminate the products under consideration and the proposed MLs.47
product), and also during smaller scale manufacturing and To complement the ML-related work, CCCF is also
storage processes that may not comply with good manufactur- developing a COP for the prevention and reduction of Cd
ing practices (because manufacturing equipment and storage contamination in cocoa beans. This COP will help farmers,
containers for chocolate may contain Pb soldering).23,30,44 primarily those in Latin America, affected by the elevated Cd

■ INTERNATIONAL INTEREST IN CD AND PB LEVELS


The Codex Alimentarius Commission (CAC) is an interna-
levels. The COP will address mitigation efforts during primary
production and postharvest (fermentation, drying, and
storage). Mitigation efforts during manufacturing and process-
tional organization with the mission to protect the health of ing of finished products (e.g., chocolates) will not be included,
consumers and to ensure fair practices in food trade. The because they are not sufficiently developed. The COP is
Codex Committee on Contaminants in Foods (CCCF), a intended to reduce Cd contamination in cocoa beans and
subsidiary committee of the CAC, establishes MLs and finished products and will facilitate application and compliance
develops codes of practice related to contaminants in foods, with Codex Cd MLs.46 The objective is to complete the COP
by 2021.


including Pb and Cd.
In 2004, Codex published a code of practice (COP) that
recommends agricultural and manufacturing techniques for the MITIGATION EFFORTS
prevention and reduction of Pb contamination in foods, which Given the interest in reducing Cd concentrations in cocoa
includes recommendations relevant to cocoa and chocolate, beans, there has been increased research, conducted primarily
including avoiding the use of leaded gasoline by farmers and in Latin America, into developing Cd mitigation methods.
processors, selecting food ingredients with low Pb levels, and With respect to industry-supported research, as part of a legal
avoiding use of Pb soldering in food processing and storage settlement, some chocolate manufacturers are required to
equipment.45 Recently, Codex approved new work for revision address Cd and Pb levels in their products, in part through the
of this COP to reflect recent information on sources of Pb in work of an expert committee. This committee is tasked with
food and updated measures for reducing Pb in food that have researching sources of Cd and Pb in chocolate products and
become available since the COP was published in 2004.46 making recommendations on measures to reduce contaminant
With respect to Cd, since 2015, the CCCF has been working levels in the products at each stage of production (i.e., growing,
to develop MLs for Cd in cocoa and chocolate (on the basis of harvesting, and fermentation; storage and transport of
percent total cocoa solids). The push to develop MLs is driven fermented cocoa beans; and bean processing and chocolate
by economic considerations, because a lack of Cd MLs in manufacturing);49 like the Codex COPs, this work may
cocoa and chocolate is threatening exports, especially from support changes in growing and processing that lower Cd
developing countries.47 This is in part because the European and Pb levels.
Commission implemented MLs in January 2019 for Cd in Recent literature on Cd mitigation has focused on
specific cocoa and chocolate products.48 Cocoa and chocolate agronomic practices in Latin America that affect the relation-
products that do not comply with these MLs are denied access ship between soil Cd and Cd levels in cocoa beans,34,37 such as
to European markets. Table 3 shows the MLs established by reducing the mobility of Cd in the soil in order to reduce the
the European Commission. uptake of Cd by cacao trees.
One example of research is the use of soil amendments,
Table 3. European Commission Cd MLs in Chocolate and including biochar and liming materials, to reduce the
Cocoa Products phytoavailability of soil Cd in Trinidad and Tobago.32,37
Liming materials together with organic matter increase the pH
European of soil, while biochar, a form of wood charcoal with absorptive
Commission
European Commission food categories (MLs) (mg/kg) properties, complexes Cd when biochar is mixed with soil.
≤30% total dry cocoa solids 0.10 Ramtahal et al. examined the effect of biochar and liming on
from ≥30 to <50% total dry cocoa solids 0.30 mitigating Cd bioaccumulation in cacao trees through
≥50% total dry cocoa solids 0.80 measurement of Cd leaf concentrations under in vitro,
cocoa powder sold to the final consumer or as an 0.60 greenhouse, and field conditions.37 (Significant correlations
ingredient in sweetened cocoa powder sold to the final between Cd cocoa leaf and Cd bean concentrations have been
consumer (drinking chocolate) reported in field studies in Ecuador and Trinidad and
Tobago.)34,50,51 Biochar and liming materials were found to
To develop Codex MLs, CCCF has analyzed data on the be effective at reducing Cd in leaves by reducing the
occurrence of Cd in cocoa and chocolate products submitted phytoavailability of Cd under in vitro and greenhouse
by Codex member countries and observers and considered conditions; however, their effectiveness was reduced under
various analytical approaches, including assessing possible MLs field conditions as a result of factors such as the landscape, soil
by country and region of origin based on percent total cocoa composition, climatic factors (e.g., rainfall), and tree factors
solids in chocolate products and considering occurrence data, (e.g., root depth). The authors recommended additional
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studies on the timing for applying amendments, placement of roasting, and winnowing, on the disposition of Cd and Pb in
amendments (i.e., depth), and concomitant use of other cocoa beans and methods for mitigation.
mitigation measures, such as low Cd-bioaccumulating
genotypes.
Zug et al. examined use of fertilizers and the diversity of
■ DISCUSSION
Information on the occurrence of Cd and Pb in cocoa and
nearby vegetation on Cd concentrations in cacao trees grown chocolate and the factors contributing to their occurrence is
on farms in Peru.36 The authors found that reduction in increasing, but more work is needed to identify successful
fertilizer use can mitigate Cd levels in cacao. This is attributed mitigation methods. This is particularly relevant for Cd as a
to many factors, including reduced levels of Cd contributed by result of the elevated concentrations of Cd in cocoa beans
fertilizers, reduced mobility of Cd in acidic soils (because some originating from certain regions of Latin America and
fertilizers can increase acidity), and slower growth of the cacao international limits on Cd in cocoa and chocolate. Higher
tree (resulting in less uptake of Cd). In addition, the authors Cd levels in cocoa beans have the potential to negatively
surmise that use of shade trees, in particular, banana plants, impact trade from Latin America, and this has motivated
may be a factor in phytoremediation as a result of the Cd mitigation research that may assist Latin American cocoa
absorption by shade trees. Traditionally, cacao trees were producers. Pb in cocoa and chocolate may be best addressed
grown with shade trees (agroforestry), which may provide through good agricultural and manufacturing practices,
benefits, such as increased Cd absorption by the shade trees, including those identified in the Codex COP on Pb reduction.
protection from sunlight, and regulation of temperature and The U.S. Government has supported research to develop
humidity, but some modern production farms have switched methods to reduce Cd and Pb in cocoa,58 which may
from agroforestry to monoculture. Some farmers are now encourage the growing of cocoa instead of coca.3
exploring returning to agroforestry. Gramlich et al. also Because of the numerous factors affecting Cd levels in cocoa,
reported lower Cd content in cacao leaves from agroforestry a combination of approaches may be needed for Cd mitigation.
systems in Bolivia compared to Cd levels in cacao leaves from Meter et al. have proposed a “mitigation hierarchy approach”
monoculture systems.35 However, Zug et al. concluded that, in for reducing Cd in cocoa beans in Latin America and the
addition to further examining the influences of fertilizers and Caribbean that includes actions from farm to final product:5
agroforestry, additional parameters that were not measured (1) Avoiding high risk areas (where cocoa is known to
(e.g., availability of soil nutrients) need to be assessed.36 accumulate high concentrations of Cd) for starting new
Genetic strategies, through either breeding varieties of cacao plantations. (2) Minimizing the absorption of Cd by the cacao
trees that take up less Cd or grafting with low-Cd-uptake tree through management of potential sources of Cd, including
rootstocks, provide possible measures for reducing Cd levels in fertilizer and use of soil amendments (e.g., liming materials,
cocoa products.52−54 For example, Lewis et al. demonstrated Zn, and organic matter). (3) Reducing levels of Cd through
that there was a 13-fold variation in Cd bean and 7-fold postharvest steps, including fermenting, drying, roasting, and
variation in Cd leaf concentrations among 10 cacao tree winnowing. However, considerable research is needed to better
accessions (trees from the same species collected from one understand the effectiveness of these mitigation steps and their
location) grown in Trinidad, despite the fact that they were impact on cocoa beans. (4) Reducing Cd in cocoa and
grown in soil with the same Cd concentration.54 chocolate through blending. Blending involves combining
cocoa beans from various geographic regions, which can
There has been less published on process mitigation
reduce Cd in cocoa and chocolate. However, blending cannot
measures for Cd and Pb, aside from the industry practice of
be used to produce fine-flavored chocolates if they are sourced
combining cocoa beans from various geographic regions, which
from a specific region of Latin America.
can have a significant effect on reducing the Cd content in
Although JECFA concluded that total Cd dietary exposure
cocoa and chocolate.1 The fermentation process, which for high consumers of cocoa and chocolate products is not a
develops the flavors of the cocoa bean, may also help mitigate concern, there is still interest in reducing Cd in chocolate
Cd through fermentation-associated production of acids. Cd is products. For Pb, the FDA has stated that efforts to limit
more soluble in acidic conditions, and this may promote Cd consumer exposure in foods to the greatest extent feasible
migration from the cocoa nib. Vanderschueren et al. examined should be pursued.59 Ongoing activities aimed at reducing
the influence of fermentation on Cd distribution in cacao. The both Cd and Pb in chocolate products, including Codex work,
authors found that Cd migration from nibs to the seed coat industry-sponsored research projects, and European Commis-
(only nibs are used in production of cocoa and chocolate) sion Cd MLs, will help accelerate efforts to develop mitigation
occurred if the pH of the nib dropped below 5 following methods.


extended fermentation.55 Further research is needed to assess
the influence of nib pH on nib Cd levels and flavor (because AUTHOR INFORMATION
excessive fermentation can affect flavor). Corresponding Author
Efforts have been made to understand the influence of
Eileen Abt − Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition,
processing on the composition of Cd and Pb in cocoa beans United States Food and Drug Administration, College Park,
using analytical techniques to measure the concentrations of Maryland 20740, United States; orcid.org/0000-0002-
Cd and Pb in various parts of the cocoa beans.14,18,56 However, 3314-1438; Phone: 240-402-1529; Email: eileen.abt@
a study by Thyssen et al. used bioimaging with laser ablation− fda.hhs.gov
inductively coupled plasma−triple quadrupole mass spectrom-
etry (LA−ICP−TQMS) to examine Pb and Cd distribution Author
(including that of other elements) in cocoa beans.57 Lauren Posnick Robin − Center for Food Safety and Applied
Application of this technique may help shed light on the Nutrition, United States Food and Drug Administration,
influence of other cocoa processing steps, including drying, College Park, Maryland 20740, United States
F https://dx.doi.org/10.1021/acs.jafc.9b08295
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Complete contact information is available at: Toxic metals in cocoa powder and chocolate by ICP-MS method after
https://pubs.acs.org/10.1021/acs.jafc.9b08295 microwave-assisted digestion. Food Chem. 2018, 245, 1163−1168.
(17) Villa, J. E. L.; Peixoto, R. R. A.; Cadore, S. Cadmium and lead
Notes in chocolates commercialized in Brazil. J. Agric. Food Chem. 2014, 62,
8759−8763.
The authors declare no competing financial interest. (18) Yanus, R. L.; Sela, H.; Borojovich, E. J. C.; Zakon, Y.; Saphier,

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