Welding Machine Buyer's Guide <<<

...and tutorial for students

If you're new to welding, the wide array of products on the market may appear
mind-blowing at first. Just like Ford, Toyota and Mercedes Benz in the auto
industry, there are several major welding manufacturers. The big boys are
Lincoln, Miller, Hobart (now owned by Miller), ESAB and Thermadyne.

And just as automakers turn out sedans, pickups, sports coupes and SUV's, there
are several "makes" of welding machines, each serving a different purpose. The
most common are called MIG, TIG, Stick and Oxyacetylene welders. There are
also more expensive but versatile multi-process machines, as well as engine-
driven (fuel-powered) welders for work off the electrical grid. If you're
unfamiliar with the different welding processes, check out Skills to
Learn before proceeding here.

As a new or aspiring welder, your prospects for employment will increase if you
understand the features of many different types of equipment. Being able to
decide which model works best for a particular assignment, and which filler rod,
wire or stick electrode best meets code requirements will help qualify you to work
as a supervisor, project assistant, weld technician or purchaser at your company.
This article starts with the basics of how to choose a machine, then shows you
how to read spec sheets included in the product sales literature. You'll also get to
test your knowledge by evaluating the pros and cons of two sample machines on
the market.

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Step 1: Determine the type(s) of metal you'll be welding on.

Most welding is done on carbon steel, in the form of either pipe or sheet
metal. Carbon steel (which is ordinary steel) can handle a lot of heat. Unlike the
other metals listed below, this one is very forgiving when too much heat gets
applied by a novice welder. Nearly all welding processes accommodate carbon
steel. And you don't need a lot of features on the machine to produce a good-
looking weld.

Stainless steel is much more finicky in how it deals with heat. Composed of steel,
chromium and nickel, this alloy steel is used for food/beverage vessels and many
other products, largely because of its anti-corrosion properties. It's typically
welded using MIG or TIG machines and requires less current than carbon steel.
You can also find stainless steel stick electrodes. This allows you to use a stick
welding machine to get the job done. Of course, the base metal must be thick
enough to stand the heat.

Aluminum is on another planet entirely. As a non-ferrous metal, aluminum

conducts heat so well that you constantly need more of it to keep your puddle
molten. At the same time, the work piece distorts easily if it gets too hot.
Consequently, aluminum frequently requires more complex equipment to get the
job done. You can use a MIG machine (especially one with a pulse welding
feature), but many wirefeed mechanisms have trouble feeding the aluminum filler
wire, so a special spool feeder must also be purchased. A good TIG welding
machine is designed to weld aluminum. An AC power option is standard. An
inverter, square wave, balance control and pulse feature are also helpful for
welding aluminum. Naturally, these features add to the product cost.

Although it's not the preferred choice, a stick welding machine can also weld
aluminum. Like stainless steel, the base metal must be thick enough to stand the
heat.

Titanium (used on custom bicycles and airplanes), chromoly (used on

motorcycles and automobiles), and other alloy steels and exotic metals have their
own thermal sensitivity issues that welders must take into account. Because
these metals are so expensive, you don't want to be making mistakes when you
weld on them. Hence, they generally require a sophisticated TIG machine, along
with plenty of set-up and fit-up, and a seasoned veteran at the controls.

Step 2: Establish a current range that covers all possible metal

thicknesses.

The thicker the metal, the more current needed to weld a joint with good
penetration. Since the cost of a welding machine is based in part on how much
juice it generates, you'll have to determine in advance the maximum thickness of
base metals and fixtures you're going to be working on in your shop.
Thick structural steel and pipe thicker than a half inch requires the use of a heavy
duty MIG welding machine or a Stick welder. According to Miller Electric, you
need one amp of power for every one-hundredth (i.e. .001) inch of mild steel
thickness. For example, a 1/8" (.125 in) sheet of mild steel requires approximately
125 amps. Stainless steel needs about 10% less juice than carbon steel, while
aluminum needs about 25% more. Current settings are also tied to the diameter of
welding rods, as explained in this Miller tutorial for setting machine parameters.

Conversely, working with very thin metal requires different settings on a more
sensitive welding machine. Now the objective is to provide just enough heat to
get the job done. Sometimes a low current induces an unstable arc, and that's a
welder's nightmare. Besides that, if too much heat enters the base metal, the area
surrounding the weld weakens or melts. So many of the features described in the
paragraph above about aluminum will also apply when welding on extremely thin
stock for any metal type.

If you're careful, you can use an oxyacetylene kit to weld thin ferrous material, but
make sure the torch can accommodate a tiny three-ought (i.e. 000) sized welding
nozzle. This form of welding is discussed further in the "Cutting and
Grinding" section.

Step 3: Decide if your welding will take place inside a home shop, a
warehouse or out in the field.

As mentioned earlier, knowing where you will be welding most of the time figures
into what sort of equipment you should purchase. There are a couple of things to
think about:

Power supply: If you're plugging the machine into the wall (i.e. the power grid),
your choices are as follows:

 115 volt AC - This is the standard power provided to every customer of the
utility company, residential and commercial. A few entry-level arc welding
machines are rated for 115 volts input power, but not many.

 220-240 volts AC - This is a high-power, 30-amp circuit used by most
welding machines. Any industrial location will have this available.
Residential wiring is another matter. Since most welding equipment
requires a 30-amp circuit, you may have to hire a licensed electrician to
wire a circuit from the control panel.

 Single-Phase vs. Three-Phase - Most electrical equipment is designed for
normal "single phase" operation, drawing from the 220-240 voltage line
coming off the grid. However, at many warehouses and other industrial
locations, a "three phase" option is available. In this scenario, a third hot
 wire joins the circuit, making more amperage available to power large
motors. This option also gives you better energy efficiency, so companies
are willing to invest in three-phase machines to save bundle on their
electricity bill. You cannot, however, use a three-phase machine at home.

Offgrid Scenario: If you're welding outdoors and don't have access to the power
grid, you'll need an engine-driven welder, or welder-generator to complete the
assignment. Farmers and welders who work in the field typically buy this type of
machine. Depending on the model, the generators run on gasoline, diesel or
liquid propane (not all three), and may accommodate a stick welding torch, a Tig
torch, or a MIG/Flux-core wirefeed unit and gun. The low end of this product niche
starts at about $2000 and is used only for stick welding. When reviewing product
sales literature, look for the symbols CC (constant current) and CV (constant
voltage). CV machines are costlier, but are the right choice if you're plugging a
MIG/flux cored welder into it. You'll also need to know your power requirements
(i.e. maximum watts) in order to choose the right sized generator. Beware, the
state of California only permits the use of generators meeting low carbon
emission standards, otherwise known as CARB-compliant.

Windy conditions: If you expect to be welding in unsheltered areas where a

breeze is possible, this may negatively affect your welds. The CO2/argon gas
used in MIG to shield the weld's molten puddle until it solidifes will be ineffective,
resulting in oxidation and porosity. Thus, you'll want to be able to switch the MIG
machine over to flux-cored mode (or use a straight flux-cored welder).
Alternatively, a stick welder will work in a breezy environment (but not too breezy)
. Both of these welding processes contain solid deoxidizers within the wire or
rod. They vaporize directly over the puddle during welding, leaving a protective
layer of slag behind.

Step 4: Read product spec sheets so you can compare similar machines
and choose one with the power and features you need.

Here are a few key things to look at:

Duty Cycle: This spec tells you how much uninterrupted welding a machine can
knock in ten-minutes. Traditionally, duty cycle is defined as the number of
minutes out of a 10-minute period a welder can weld at the highest current the
machine offers. After reaching the limit, the machine must be allowed to cool
down.

Duty cycle is given as a percentage. So you have to do the math in your head,
multiplying each percentage point by ten to get the number of minutes you can
expect to weld per ten-minute interval. If you exceed the duty cycle, the machine
heats up and the circuits inside may fry.
For example, a very inexpensive machine with a maximum current of 70 amps
may have a 10 percent duty cycle. This means you can weld for 1 minute out of
every 10 without the equipment overheating or burning out.

In general, light industrial/hobbyist welding machines have a duty cycle of 20%,

medium duty 40-60%, and heavy duty 60-80%. But nowadays manufacturers are
playing with the formula. In order to boast a higher duty cycle, they base the
percentage on a lower amperage setting. So with a machine that provides a
maximum 140 amps with a 10% duty cycle, you might see a rating of 30% at 115
amps instead.

On the up side, you can use the same tactic to get around a low duty cycle for a
machine that otherwise fits all your needs. Just buy the model with a higher
maxiumum current than you expect to use. That way, you effectively increase
your duty cycle.

Open-Circuit Voltage: This is the voltage emanating from an arc welding torch or

gun when current is not flowing. On the one hand, it's sort of dangerous to have a
live circuit sitting around on the work bench with the potential to cause a serious
injury. (That's why OSHA limits OCV on equipment.) On the other hand, OCV
affects the way a torch electrode will perform when striking an arc, so the extra
punch you get at start-up is important in some types of welding.

In particular, E6010 and E7018 rods in stick welding require a reasonably high
OCV. That enables a crisper arc start as the welder scratches the rod against the
metal to begin the weld. A frequent problem for students is the inability to strike
an arc, so a low OCV on a small welding machine may only aggravate the
situation. So you should take note of this figure in the specs. An OCV of about 80
volts is considered normal in a stick welder. In a MIG welder, it can drop to about
35, but it's not a big deal, since in MIG welding the arc usually starts without any
fuss when you pull the trigger.

Thermal Overload Protection: Either a machine has it or doesn't. And you should

only buy a machine that has it. This feature automatically cuts output power to
your torch or gun if the circuit inside starts overheating. The fan or other cooling
mechanism will continue running to help disperse the heat (assuming you leave
the machine turned on). In some specs, this feature is clearly stated. But with
other products you have to check the equipment manual or ask a sales rep. (See
the samples below for more.)

Step 5: Determine if you need to use compressed gases and how you
will purchase, transport and store them.

A variety of gases (CO2, argon, oxygen, etc.) are used for different welding
processes. In the case of MIG, the type of gas you need depends on the process,
the base metal, welding position and environmental conditions. With oxy-fuel
welding, you simply need oxygen and a fuel gas. And a TIG machine typically
uses argon but on occasion may require helium. Besides reading the equipment
literature carefully, you'll want to consider a few other things:

 • If you buy a welding machine that requires a compressed gas (i.e. gas
stored in a tank under pressure), you'll need to occasionally transport the
tank to a supplier for refills. Hopefully, there's a supplier in your area with a
reasonable policy for exchanging and filling empty tanks.

 • The tanks themselves can either be purchased or leased from the
supplier. Cylinders come in a number of sizes, so you'll have to research
how big a tank you need based on how often you'll be using it. As a rule, it
doesn't cost too much more to fill a large tank than it does to fill a small
one.

 • There are lots of safety issues and storage requirements associated with
gas, so be sure you understand what's involved before buying welding
equipment that uses it. If you're thinking of buying a used tank, be sure
your gas supplier will agree to fill it before purchasing. Always keep your
sales receipt and other documentation handy. OSHA requires that all tanks
get inspected every two years.

 • Most mild steel applications in MIG call for a combination of 75 % argon
and 25 % CO2, although you can probably use 100% CO2 with good
results. Welding aluminum in MIG and TIG usually calls for all argon gas.
Stainless steel requires a tri-mix blend of 90% helium,7.5% Argon and 2.5%
CO2. Don't worry, you don't have to mix the gases yourself. You just buy
the blend you need.

 • While having to use compressed gases with an arc welding machine adds
to your costs, you save money on filler rod. MIG filler wire is cheaper and
more efficiently used than stick electrodes. (Self-shielding flux core wire
doesn't require any gas.)

 • Both acetylene gas and oxygen are nowadays extremely expensive.
That's why the oxy-acetylene process is generally used for torch cutting
rather than welding.

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Ready to Play The Price is Right?

Using the criteria above, determine if either of the two products below
can stand up to your scrutiny. Both are advertised online, with product
descriptions and specs provided.

Product #1

 Hobart Stickmate LX 235AC

Read the product description and spec sheet (PDF) This stick welding

machine has a great online price of $299 (plus shipping), with an impressive
current range of up to 235 amps and an OCV of 80 volts max. It's recommended
for steel and stainless steel, can handle stick electrodes up to 5/16" diameter and
a base metal thickness up to 3/8". It also requires a 230V input power source
(make sure you have one available, if you're using a home shop). So far, this all
looks pretty good.

Now dig a little deeper and you'll discover an irksome deficiency. On the stick
electrode chart provide in the specs, one of the most common rods in the
business, E6010, can't be used with this machine. E6010 rods are common in pipe
welding and are part of the certification test. They require a DC current and this
machine is AC only. (E6011 rods are the AC equivalent of E6010, so you can still
obtain the same type of weld.)

Besides the AC-only drawback, at 225 amps the machine has only a 20% duty
cycle. However, the duty cycle graph shows that if you go down to 100 amps, that
figure jumps to 100%. There's no mention of thermal overload protection, just a
note saying the fan stays on all the time. (See next example for more on this
subject.) Finally, the online seller charges a huge shipping fee of
$125+. (Amazon offers the tinier Hobart LX 205 for $299 with free
shipping. This one can be plugged into any 115Vsocket. You can buy
the LX 235 AC for about $375 on Amazon.)
Too bad about this machine being AC only. If you checked the other listings on
the same website, there's an AC/DC model available. The addition of a rectifier
piles over $200 onto the price, but at least now the AC current can be converted
to DC. Stick welding in AC can be precarious with the polarity changing 60 times
per second. (That means the current stops flowing 120 times per minute.)
Probably a good idea to try your hand at AC welding in the overhead position
before committing to an AC-only stick welder.

Product #2

Lincoln Electric Power MIG 180-C

Read the product description and spec sheet (PDF). This MIG/Flux Core

welding machine, selling for $729 (with a rebate offer) has a range of 30-180 amps
in DC only, and requires input power from a 230V source. It can weld steel,
stainless steel and aluminum up to 3/16" thick, or with flux cored wire up to 1/2"
thick. The duty cycle rating is 30 percent.

Unfortunately, the cycle is listed for 130 amps, not the 180-amp max. There's no
mention of thermal overload protection, either. It could be that all Lincoln
machines have this protection, so they don't bother saying so in the literature.
When in doubt, it's easy enough to email the sales department with any
questions. Note: We did check with a Lincoln sales rep, who referred us
to Page D-2 of the product manual. Thermal overload protection is
standard on all their machines.

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