Sunray

Crochet
Bucket
Pattern
Hat

Sunray Bucket Hat

By Brenda K. B. Anderson

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 Sunray Bucket Hat

Bad hair day got ya down? Throw on this cute bucket

hat and gain some extra style points! This warm
weather hat will shade your face while allowing a
breeze to pass though it’s paper-y fabric. A variation
on the half-double crochet stitch creates a brim with
enough substance to keep its shape.

Sizes
Child (Adult Small, Adult Medium, Adult Large)

Finished Measurements
19 (21, 23, 25)” finished hat circumference (measured
just above where brim flares outward) to fit 18 (20, 22, 24)” head Abbreviations
circumference
Ch = chain
Notes for choosing size: This hat does not stretch very much- it
HDCBB = half double
fits best when hat circumference measures about 1” larger than
crochet through the back
actual head measurement. If in between sizes, make the larger
bar (see notes)
size.
Rnd(s) = round(s)
SC = single crochet
SCBB = single crochet
Materials through the back bar
• Approximately 182 (200, 220, 240) yds [166 (182, 201, (see notes)
220) m] 2mm diameter raffia cotton yarn Sl st = slip stitch
• US F [3.75mm] crochet hook or size needed to obtain St(s) = stitch(es)
gauge (see notes) WS = wrong side
• 6 removeable (locking) stitch markers YO = yarn over
• Metal tapestry Needle
• Removeable stitch markers

Yarn Used for Hat Shown

Raffia cotton yarn purchased here on Amazon. It is sold by the cone from the “Rayon Crochet Raffia
Yarn” brand on Amazon. Each cone measures 306-328 yds [280-300m]. It is made of 100% cotton
and wood fiber. This raffia is not a flat ribbon shape; instead, it is a mostly-round twine-shaped
“yarn”.

Gauge
Work through rnd 9 of hat directions. Piece measures 4” in diameter. 17 sts and 19 rnds = 4”

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 Sunray Bucket Hat

Notes
This raffia yarn can be hard on your hands. It is stiff and completely inelastic. Plan to crochet a bit
slower than normal and take frequent breaks to stretch your hands while working on this project.
You may benefit from wearing a glove, silicone thimble or bandage to protect your fingers/hands. A
metal hook with an ergonomic, cushioned handle will help prevent hand fatigue.

The body of this hat is made top-down in continuous rounds without joining. Use a locking stitch
marker to note the beginning of the round.

Special stitches
Half Double Crochet through the Back Bar (HDCBB): This stitch is worked in the round. This is a
regular HDC st made into the back bar of the previous round of sts. The back bar is the horizontal
dash on the WS of a HDC st situated about halfway between the top and bottom of the stitch. Work
as follows: YO, slide hook through the back bar from top to bottom (in a downward motion), YO and
pull up loop, YO and pull through all three loops on hook.

Single Crochet through the Back Bar (SCBB): This stitch is worked in the round. This is a regular SC
st made into the back bar of the previous round of sts. The back bar is the horizontal dash on the
WS of a HDC st situated about halfway between the top and bottom of the stitch. Work as follows:
Slide hook through the back bar from top to bottom (in a downward motion), YO and pull up loop, YO
and pull through both loops on hook.

Instructions
Hat:

Rnd 1: Make an adjustable loop, 6 SC into loop, pull on beginning yarn tail to close loop. Do not join
but continue to work in a spiral. 6 SC. Use stitch marker to keep track of beginning of rnds.

Rnd 2: 2 SC into each st around. 12 SC.

Rnd 3: [2 SC into next st, SC into next st] 6 times. 18 SC.

Rnd 4: [SC into each of next 2 sts, 2 SC into next st] 6 times. 24 SC.

Rnd 5: [SC into next st, 2 SC into next st, SC into each of next 2 sts] 6 times. 30 SC.

Rnd 6: [SC into next 4 sts, 2 SC into next st] 6 times. 36 SC.

Rnd 7: [SC into next 2 sts, 2 SC into next st, SC in next 3 sts] 6 times. 42 SC.

Rnd 8: Place stitch marker in first stitch of each repeat. Use a contrasting marker to keep track of
beginning of rnds. [SC into next 6 sts, 2 SC into next st] 6 times. 48 SC.

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 Sunray Bucket Hat

Rnds 9-11 (9-12, 9-13, 9-14): SC around making one increase between each set of markers. Avoid
placing an increase near an increase from previous rnd. Note: an “increase” means to make 2 SC
into one stitch. 66 (72, 78, 84) SC after working Rnd 11(12, 13, 14).

Rnd 12 (13, 14, 15): Remove 2nd, 3rd, 5th and 6th stitch markers (only two stitch markers remain).
SC around making 1 increase between each set of st markers. 68 (74, 80, 86) SC.

Rnd 13 (14, 15, 16): Sc into each st around.

Rnd 14-25 (15-28, 16-31, 17-34): Repeat last 2 rnds an additional 6 (7, 8, 9) more times. 80 (88, 96,
104) SC after working Rnd 25 (28, 31, 34).

Rnd 26 (29, 32, 35): Place stitch marker in first stitch of each increase in this rnd, remove old
marker. Use contrasting marker to keep track of beginning of rnd. 2 HDC in next st, HDC in next 26
(28, 31, 34) sts, 2 HDC in next st, HDC into next 25 (29, 31, 33) sts, 2 HDC in next st, HDC in each of
next 26 (28, 31, 34) sts. 83 (91, 99, 107) HDC.

Rnds 27-32 (30-36, 33-39, 36-43): HDCBB around increasing once between each set of markers.
101 (112, 120, 131) HDCBB after working Rnd 32 (36, 39, 43).

Rnd 33 (37, 40, 44): SCBB around. Sl st in first st of rnd to fasten off.

Finishing
Weave in ends, block with iron (it is ok to briefly
touch the surface of the raffia yarn with iron). Use
steam if necessary. DO NOT SOAK IN WATER-
the yarn may lose its stiffness or even fall apart.
Note: if you substitute with another yarn (even if
it is a raffia yarn), make a swatch to test blocking
method, as it may differ.

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 Sunray Bucket Hat

My Notes

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