SKIN CARE INGREDIENTS, DUPES, AND

DEALS

2019 Guide
What to buy and why

Carolyn Greenwald

Copyright © 2018
Ithaca NY
All Rights Reserved
SKIN CARE INGREDIENTS, DUPES, AND DEALS
Introduction
Chapter One: The Short Answer
Chapter Two: Effective Ingredients
Common Ingredients That Are Not Very Effective
Chapter Three: The Daily Routine
Chapter Four: Cult Favorites and Other Great Products
Chapter Five: Dupes
Chapter Six: Mistakes of The Uninformed
Chapter Seven: What Else Can I Do For My Skin?
Conclusion
 Introduction
In 2018, I started listening to the delightful podcast Forever 35 where
two friends, Doree Shafir and Kate Spenser, talk about self-care, skin care,
and serums. The discussions of what they like, what they use, and what is
effective lead me to start on my own skin care journey. Prior to listening to
the podcast, I had always used moisturizer because my skin felt dry after a
shower and I knew I was supposed to use sunblock daily (but didn’t). That
was it. I was a blank slate.

Starting a skin care routine wasn’t as easy as it sounds. Cosmetic

products are filled with scientific sounding ingredients that all promise
variations on a theme: younger, healthy looking skin. Not knowing what to
buy, I started taking advice from The Strategist column in New York
Magazine. This was a good place to begin, but the different products and
serums were not presented in a way that allowed me to understand what to
use and why. Plus, the website was always encouraging me to buy buy buy
and I knew I didn’t know enough to make smart purchases. I decided that I
was never going to understand the various labels and ingredients unless I
started a chart and wrote them down.

Before I spend real money, I want to know if the ingredients in a product

are “worth it.” Some of the joy of using a product comes from a sense of
indulgence that creates real self-care. At the same time, I don’t want to feel
like a sucker who fell for beauty industry malarkey. In my mind, it is self-
care to know there is science behind the ingredients in the products that I
purchase.

Additionally, it was not immediately clear to me how to use many of the

products on the market. I had questions about whether products can and
should be layered, how to time applications, and whether my skin should be
wet or dry. Again, I looked to science to find my answers.

To figure this out for myself I began reading books, reading websites,
listening to more podcasts and watching YouTube. I read every skin care
book in my public library system and purchased several more. It’s not easy
to figure out who is giving it to you straight and who is trying to sell you
something (hint: almost everyone).

After reading and organizing the best information I could find, I have
pretty much figured out what I should buy and how to use it. Here, I share
what I’ve learned in a manner I think will be most helpful to the next person
looking to maximize their skin care choices. This book is not a paid
endorsement. It is the fruits of my research. I am not a scientist or a
dermatologist. Think of me as your friend in the know.

Chapter One is the short answer. This chapter contains a basic routine
for a reader who just wants to know what relatively inexpensive products to
buy and how to use them morning and evening.

Chapter Two is an in-depth discussion of ingredients. The beginning of

the chapter lists ingredients universally agreed upon to be effective. The end
of the chapter discusses some commonly encountered and often touted
ingredients that have less scientific support. Once you become familiar with
the discussed ingredients, you will be able to shop with confidence knowing
what each ingredient is meant to achieve and whether the products you are
considering contain ingredients that can actually achieve the stated aim.

Chapter Three is a more in-depth discussion of a daily skin care routine.

This chapter includes the order to use products, what ingredients work best
alone, what ingredients work best when combined, and how long to wait
between applications.

Chapter Four is called Cult Favorites and Other Great Products. This
chapter contains lists of cleansers, serums, moisturizers and sun protection.
Of course, there are tons of great products available today and this chapter
lists only a few in each category. Cult favorites are the products mentioned
again and again on websites, podcasts, in magazines, and by celebrities.
Other great products are less beloved but are often very effective.

Chapter Five is all about dupes. A "dupe" (short for duplicate) is a less
expensive product with the same or similar active ingredients in the same or
similar concentration as a more expensive product. It is extremely satisfying
to find a product with the right active ingredients without the sticker shock
price tag. Many cult favorites have less expensive, readily available dupes.

Chapter Six is where I confess all the dumb products I purchased before
I knew what ingredients really work and some inadvertent gems I stumbled
upon.

Chapter Seven asks what else, besides products, can be beneficial to the
overall appearance of your skin. This chapter contains a discussion of
nutraceuticals and vitamin supplements, acne and acne treatments, water,
natural beauty products, gadgets and other available treatments.

The conclusion is followed by a list of references. The information I

acquired while writing this book is readily available but takes a lot of time
to organize, digest, and understand. After reading this book, you can
continue (or begin) your self-care journey knowing that science is on your
side.
 Chapter One: The Short Answer

Skin needs nutrition, oxygen, and clean space to work. Oxygen

molecules cannot penetrate the dermis so your routine will include only
cleaning your skin and providing nutrition.

Morning
1. ​Wash your face with gentle cleanser such as Garden of Wisdom
Cleansing Oil and either a clean wash cloth or sponge.

2. ​Completely dry your face then apply a vitamin C and E combined

serum that comes in a dark bottle such as Timeless 20% Vitamin C+ E
Ferulic Acid Serum.

3. ​Wait as long as possible but before you go outside, apply a broad

spectrum SPF such as Jane Iredale Glow Time Full Coverage Mineral
BB Cream.

4. ​To provide more sun protection in the form of a physical barrier apply
a powder such as Neutrogena SkinClearing Mineral Powder with
salicylic acid or begin your makeup application.

Evening
1. ​Wash your face with a stronger cleanser such as CeraVe Foaming
Face Cleanser.

2. ​Apply retinol (vitamin A) such as Differin Gel.

 3. ​Wait as long as possible and apply a serum with hyaluronic acid and
matrixyl peptide such as Hylamide Sub-Q Anti Age.

4. ​If your skin still feels dry, apply a humectant oil such as rose hip oil or
marula oil.

Once per week, after washing your face, use an exfoliant such as Pixie
Glow Tonic (5% glycolic acid). Ideally you should let it work for several
minutes (or even overnight) before applying any other products.
 Chapter Two: Effective Ingredients
The objective for anti-aging skin care products is to increase the presence
of collagen, elastin, ceramides and keratin, all of which contribute to skin’s
firmness and structural integrity.

Collagen is the main structural protein found in skin and it provides

rigidity.

Elastin is the component of the skin that gives it flexibility and allows it
to snap back.

Ceramides are the fat based (lipid) chemicals that bind skin together on
the topmost layer of your skin (the stratum corneum).

Keratin is tough protein made of amino acids, carbohydrates, and fatty

acids that provides flexibility and protection.

If topical application of collagen, elastin, ceramides, and keratin

increased the amount of these components in your skin cells, skin care
would be a breeze. Unfortunately, for the most part, these molecules are
ineffective as a topical ingredient because they are too large to penetrate the
outer layers of the skin.

Cosmeceuticals promise to fight aging with brilliant lab discoveries of

new ingredients and delivery mechanisms. Unfortunately, most ingredients
do not penetrate the skin very well. Fatty lipids, smaller sized molecules
(nanoparticles) and ingredients suspended in silica shells have the best
chance. It is most likely that the ingredients in many of our products simply
sit on top of our skin until we wash them off.

The ingredients discussed below, when presented in the proper form, are
able to penetrate the dermis and improve skin condition.

Vitamin A
 Topically applied, vitamin A can partially reverse structural changes to
the skin caused by sun damage and aging. Vitamin A enhances the
production of collagen, smooths skin by communicating with the genes
involved in epidermal cell turn over, and acts as an antioxidant.

The active form of vitamin A is called retinoic acid. Prescription vitamin

A products contain retinoic acid in the form of either tretinoin or synthetic
tretinoin (adapalene and tazarotene). Synthetic tretinoin is not as
successful as true tretinoin in reversing wrinkles. With adapalene, for
example, the acid only binds to 1 out of 3 potential skin receptors. The
advantage to this is that the synthetic products have less side effects such as
irritation and redness. The disadvantage is less wrinkle reversal.

There are a variety of vitamin A products that contain retinoic acid.

Differin Gel (adapalene). This product is now available over the counter.
The gel allows for increased absorption and less light sensitivity. This
product is an excellent acne treatment.

Retin A (tretinoin). Retin A has the most research-based support for its
acne and wrinkle reducing abilities. It is available only by prescription.
Some users find it too irritating.

Renova (tretinoin). Renova also contains true tretinoin in an emollient

cream. It is available only by prescription.

Tazorac cream (tazarotene). Use this cream to treat psoriasis.

If you don’t have a prescription for vitamin A you can buy a product with
retinol (rather than with retinoic acid). Retinol is the name for the entire
vitamin A molecule. Your skin will incorporate the retinol and convert it
into retinoic acid. The conversion process weakens the active ingredients so
a retinoid product with .5% active ingredient is comparable with a dose of
.05% retinoic acid product.

In cosmetics, the percentage of retinol, the delivery system, packaging

and other ingredients present are all important. Retinoids are air and light
sensitive. It is best to purchase a product packaged in a tube or a dark pump
rather than a clear bottle.

There are several types of retinol found in cosmetic products. These

include retinyl acetate, retinyl linoleate, retinyl propionate (a retinol
ester), retinyl retinoate (possibly the most effective form of retinol),
retinyl palmitate (the least effective form of retinol, useful for sensitive
skin).

Vitamin B
Topically applied B vitamins also enhance skin structure. In skin care
products, the most often used vitamin B is niacinamide, a derivate of
vitamin B3. Niacinamide can prevent water loss, supports collagen
formation, can stimulate the skin’s production of ceramides, and can
increase keratin in the epidermis.

Using a product with niacinamide will reduce the appearance of fine lines
and wrinkles. Niacinamide also has exfoliating properties, similar to the
alpha-hydroxy acids (discussed below). Niacinamide can lighten skin.

Look for a product with a concentration of 5% and use it for twelve

weeks to demonstrate effectiveness. Niacinamide and N-acetyle
glucosamine are usually combined into a complex. They also work well to
hydrate the skin.

Another, although less popular vitamin B, is pantothenic acid, vitamin

B5. B5 helps skin retain moisture by acting as a lubricant.

Vitamin C
Vitamin C is a proven stimulant for the production of collagen and can
thicken skin. It is also an antioxidant.

Water soluble vitamin C is called L-ascorbic acid. Some scientists favor

the fat-soluble form of vitamin C which can penetrate the skin on its own.
Fat soluble vitamin C is known as vitamin C ester (an ester is a chemical
compound that combines an acid and an alcohol). Ascorbyl palmitate is
the best known vitamin C ester. It is made by combining L-ascorbic acid
with palm oil. Products containing vitamin C esters should get better
penetration and absorption. Vitamin C esters have a neutral pH and are
nonirritating and non-stinging. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is a slow release
vitamin C ester.

Vitamin C breaks down when exposed to air and oxygen. Only buy
vitamin C packaged in a dark bottle. An airless pump bottle is best. In fact,
oxidized vitamin C can actually cause free-radical formation (free radicals
are toxic oxygen molecules that lead to cell degeneration). Once opened,
vitamin C products will lose effectiveness after six months.

Vitamin E
Vitamin E is stored in skin cell membranes and makes them smooth and
supple. Vitamin E promotes normal keratinization (the turnover of dead
skin cells). Vitamin E reduces inflammation and helps wounds heal. There
is only so much vitamin E that the cell membranes can take in before they
become saturated. At that point, the rest just goes to waste.

Vitamin E is commonly listed in ingredients as tocotrienol, tocopherol,

alpha-tocopherol and tocopherol acetate. Tocotrienol is better at
preventing free radical damage than traditional vitamin E (alpha-
tocopherol).

Exfoliating Acids
Exfoliating acids encourage your skin to shed dead skin cells and can
also fight wrinkles. You can also shed dead skin cells as effectively with a
scrub, but you won’t get the anti-wrinkle effect unless you use an acid
which can penetrate beyond the surface of the skin.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) are the go-to exfoliating acid. These
acids will loosen the outermost layer of dead skin cells, help increase cell
turnover, unclog pores, and increase the absorption of moisturizers. AHAs
do not cut through oil so they are not the product to use if you have oily
skin (see BHAs below).

There are five major types of AHAs: glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic
acid, citric acid and tartaric acid. Glycolic acid and lactic acid are the
most popular and have the most accumulated scientific research confirming
their effectiveness. Glycolic acid can improve the appearance of skin,
increase collagen production, and improve pigmentation. Citric acid can
slough off brown spots and dull skin. Lactic acid is the mildest and is also
hydrating. There are hundreds of published studies on the effectiveness of
glycolic and lactic acid in increasing cell turnover.

Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) are the oil soluble cousin of AHAs. The
main BHA is salicylic acid. Salicylic acid binds to keratin in the skin and
helps to soften it. Choose salicylic acid if you have acne prone skin. Unlike
AHAs, salicylic acid is oil soluble and is able to penetrate the oil in the
pores and exfoliate the built-up skin cells inside the oil glands. It also has
anti-inflammatory properties.

A third option are polyhydroxy acids which are similar chemically to

AHAs but have a larger molecular structure which limits penetration and
therefore can be less irritating.

When choosing an exfoliating acid the two considerations are

concentration and pH. AHAs work best in a concentration between 5-8%
with a pH of 3 to 4. BHA works best in a 1-2% concentration also in a pH
of 3 to 4. A product with 10% acid will sting and burn. If the pH is less than
3.5, the product will likely irritate your skin. It is hard to know the pH of a
product unless you contact the manufacturer but the better companies will
list the pH on the product page.

According to The Age Fix (see reference guide), you do not need to buy a
product to exfoliate with lactic acid. All you need is a wash cloth soaked in
plain whole milk, and if you wish you can add apple juice. Leave the milk
on your skin for two to four minutes. This will give you a light chemical
peel with two bonuses: the fatty proteins in the milk are moisturizing and
milk has anti-inflammatory properties.
 Moisturizers
There are two ways that serums and lotions can moisturize your skin.
Lotions provide an occlusive barrier that prevents the moisture already in
your skin from evaporating. Ingredients that perform this function include
petroleum jelly, mineral oil, and silicones. Lotions can also attract
moisture to you skin by including an ingredient that has an affinity for
water. These ingredients are called humectants and they bind water to the
surface of your skin. Glycerin, sorbitol, and hyaluronic acid are the most
common humectants. Hyaluronic acid is the humectant mentioned most
often on packaging.

Like collagen and ceramides, hyaluronic acid is natural component of

skin tissue. Synthetic forms of hyaluronic acid are an excellent skin care
ingredient. Hyaluronic acid boosts cell moisture content and has cell
communicating abilities. It can improve the firmness of the skin and its
overall tone. Hyaluronic acid also acts as an antioxidant. The salt form of
hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, may better penetrate the skin better
than the non-salt form.

Another powerful moisturizer used in many products is dimethicone.

Dimethicone is a type of silicone that can immediately plump out fine lines.

Facial moisturizers should be lightweight, non-comedogenic (not leading

to blocked pores that cause acne) and wrinkle reducing.

Your hands and your face have different cosmetic needs because the skin
on your hands is much thicker and is washed more often. Hand lotions
should be heavy barrier creams that protect.

Oils
Plant and mineral oils are helpful for boosting skin moisture but do not
“repair” your skin. Oils contain Omega 3 and Omega 6. These essential
fatty acids (EFAs) can act as antioxidants and have anti-inflammatory
properties. Oils degrade quickly so topical application usually leads to more
free radicals attacking your skin. Despite their popularity, there is little
direct data to prove that face oils are anti-aging or help with scars, stretch
marks, and skin lightening.

Here are some of the most popular oils:

Argan Oil/Moroccan Oil has three times more vitamin E than olive oil.
It is often mixed with cheaper oils so check the ingredients list.

Jojoba Oil is a wax very similar to our skin’s natural oils. This oil helps
with moisture retention and the penetration of other active ingredients.

Marula Oil is a popular antioxidant oil mostly composed of oleic acid

and linoleic acid.

Olive Oil is an anti-inflammatory monounsaturated oil containing oleic

acid.

Rose Hip Oil can be a source of antioxidants.

Squalane (produced from plant sources) acts as an emollient and

promotes a soft and smooth feel to the skin. It is rapidly absorbed when
applied topically so it does not leave an oily residue. It is also an
antioxidant.

Antioxidants
Antioxidants protect your skin’s collagen from free radicals, the toxic
oxygen molecules generated by pollution, sun damage, and cell renewal.
Unfortunately, most antioxidants are delicate and are often ineffective in
topical skin care products. The concentrations are too small and the
antioxidants in products are probably no longer effective in fighting free
radicals. Antioxidant “dusting” is when a manufacturer lists an antioxidant
but only includes a tiny amount. Look at the ingredient list and make sure it
is toward the top. Buying an antioxidant in jar packaging can be a waste of
money. Once exposed to air, the antioxidant will become oxidized and
deactivated.
 A handful of antioxidants may be topically applied with success.
Vitamins C and E are the best options. Here are others commonly found in
skin care products:

Coenzyme Q10 (coQ10) is an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent

that can also minimally reduce wrinkles. Its best use is that it can
successfully prevent UVA-irradiation damage. Idebenone is the stable form
of coQ10.

Coffee Berry is an antioxidant that combats free radicals throughout the

entire skin cell. Coffee berry also contains exfoliating polyhydroxy acids.

Ferulic Acid is a plant-based antioxidant made from bran. Research

supports its use as a stabilizer for vitamin E and helpful in sun protection.

Ginko Biloba is an antioxidant that can increase blood flow and help
with inflammation from sun exposure.

Resveratrol is found in the skin of red grapes (wine). Like CoQ10, its
anti-aging benefit is that it assists with the prevention of sunlight damage
(with resveratrol the wavelength is UVB). It is a good ingredient in bb
cream or sunscreen.

The antioxidant in green tea is called polyphenol epigallocatechin-3-

gallage or EGCG. However, EGCG is water soluble so it is not well suited
for skin penetration. There is insufficient evidence that topical application is
beneficial to humans.

Other Goodish Ingredients

Bee Venom has some wound healing properties and there is a chance it
can decrease inflammatory acne lesions.

Peptides are fragments of amino acids used to create proteins. There are
three different types of peptides used in skin care products. Peptides can be
effective but only in a limited capacity. Do not purchase an expensive
peptide product in a jar.
 Signal peptides stimulate skin fibroblasts to produce more collagen,
elastin, and other proteins in the matrix of the dermis. Matrixyl (palmitoyl
pentapeptide-4), palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl
tetrapeptide-7 are signal peptides with small but some positive results
producing collagen.

Carrier peptides deliver trace elements, like copper and magnesium,

which help with wound repair and enzymatic processes. It is unlikely that
most signal peptides can penetrate the dermis.

Enzyme inhibitor peptides interfere with the enzyme reactions that

degrade cell structure, so they preserve the collagen in your skin. These
include gamma-aminobutryic acid (GABA) and dimethylaminoethanol
(DMAE). Scientific studies have not proven that these peptides can
penetrate the skin.

Snail mucin is a complex bioactive material containing hyaluronic acid,

glycolic acid, peptides, and other elements. The hydrating effects come
from the hyaluronic and glycolic acids.

Common Ingredients That Are Not Very

Effective
Algae in cosmetics can act as a water binding agent and an
antioxidant. Algae does not reduce wrinkling or heal skin.

Aloe mucin from an actual aloe vera plant helps with wound healing.
However, studies suggest that aloe is not shelf stable and aloe in products
has no healing properties.

Alpha Lipoic Acid is said to help regenerate vitamin C and E and

remodel collagen. However, the science doesn’t support its use other than as
an effective moisturizer.

Botanical Anti-Inflammatories include chamomile, aloe, and licorice.

Despite their popularity there is insufficient scientific support for the claim
that these ingredients have a potent anti-inflammatory effect when applied
to human skin in the concentrations available in cosmetic products.

Ceramides added to topical moisturizers are only absorbed in the

topmost dead layers of your skin so they are not very effective when
applied topically.

Collagen and Elastin molecules are not small enough to penetrate the
skin’s surface and neither molecule can actually fuse with the collagen and
elastin in your skin. This is true even if the product says the collagen or
elastin is “bioengineered.”

Epidermal Growth Factors (EGFs) are derived from plant or human

fetal fibroblasts or bioengineered from human skin. They are supposed to
slow the aging process and trigger cell proliferation. However, there is
insufficient scientific support for their effectiveness.

Kinetin is a plant derived growth hormone that promotes cell division

and slows the aging process in plant cells. There is no scientific support for
the claim that kinetin stimulates cell growth, although it can be an effective
moisturizer.

Stem Cells only work if they are living and products do not contain
living stem cells.

Ingredient Reference Guide

If you want even more of the science or if you have questions about any
particular ingredient, go to the ingredient dictionary on the Paula’s Choice
website which can be found at www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-
dictionary. Paula Begoun, the cosmetic cop, shares her science-based
opinion on the ingredient and often cites scientific studies.
 Chapter Three: The Daily Routine

Step One: Wash Your Face

The purpose of cleansing is to gently remove dirt and cell debris. The
best cleanser for you is the mildest cleanser that will clean your skin
without stripping your skin of essential moisture.

The cleanser should not be harsh and should not leave your skin feeling
dry or flaky. If your skin feels tight after washing with a cleanser, it is not
right for your skin. In general, the more a cleanser foams, the more drying it
will be because it likely contains a larger quantity of detergent. Liquid or
lotion style cleansers tend to be gentler. A good oil cleanser will function as
a super gentle surfactant that loosens dried up debris on your face.

If your skin tends to be acne prone, you want to wash away oil and you
should consider a cleanser that has 2% salicylic acid. Otherwise, use a
separate exfoliating acid not in cleanser form.

Your nighttime cleanser can be slightly stronger to wash off makeup and
dirt.

Micellar water is popular. Micellation is the process which soaps and

detergents break down big chemicals such as oil and dirt (and eye makeup)
into smaller ones so they can rinse off the skin easily. Micellar water will do
a good job removing heavy eye makeup. Otherwise you don’t really need it.
If you do use it, micellar water works best using warm water.

Double cleansing is also popular, especially in Korean skin care

routines. First you use an oil-based cleanser to remove heavy makeup, sun
screen, and pollution. Then, you use a water-based cleanser to wash any
extra dirt.
 Cleansers are a great place to keep it basic and simple. There is no reason
to spend money on an expensive cleanser with added ingredients that will
wash off before they can be fully effective.

Save Time and Money: Skip the Toner

American style toners are mostly just exfoliators that are designed to
close pores and tighten skin. Asian style toners tend to be moisturizers.
Your toner may also contain ingredients that are drying, so while they may
feel smooth and cool, your skin is left parched. Some toners contain
moisturizing and anti-inflammatory substances like (rosewater and
cucumber) to combat their drying effect. A toner containing witch hazel is
rich in tannins and will feel tightening. This feeling is temporary and has no
long-term effect.

The bottom line is that a separate toner is superfluous if you exfoliate and
moisturize.

Evening Step Two: Exfoliate

Exfoliation produces benefits that should be immediately noticeable (in
contrast to serums which take months for effects to be perceptible).
Sloughing off dead skin instantly brightens your complexion and makes it
look fresher. In theory, you could also scrub dead skin cells with a loofa. Or
you can use a home microdermabrasion cream which contains scrubbing
granules. However, since AHAs and BHAs increase collagen production,
they will provide the best result.

If you have dry or sensitive skin, try lactic acid, which is the gentlest
option.

How often should you exfoliate? Exfoliation also removes the vitamin
C and E embedded in the stratum corneum. Stripping these vitamins away
is akin to robbing your skin of its supplies. Heavy duty exfoliators are
meant to be used once per week. Lighter exfoliators can be used daily.
 How long should you leave on the AHA? The first time you use an
AHA, leave it on for one minute and then rinse it off. As you get used to the
product, you can leave it on for longer. Ideally, you will leave it on for 20
minutes before using another product, such as a moisturizer. AHAs work at
a pH of 4. At some point, your skin’s natural pH will impede the AHA.

Step Three: Encourage Repair and

Recovery
The goal here is to repair the skin to healthy levels of nutrients, which
can become depleted by poor skin care, sun and pollution, and over-
exfoliation. When you massage products into your skin you are increasing
the blood supply and that blood is bringing oxygen. While this may increase
blood circulation, this will not increase skin cell absorption.

Repair skin with either an essence or a serum. What is the difference

between an essence and a serum? An essence is simply a thin, watery
lotion. Think of a traditional moisturizer only more liquefied. A serum is a
lightweight, gel-like moisturizer that is less emollient than your average
cream. Serums are formed from water and oil incompletely mixed. Serums
mix well with skin oils and allow for the easy application of makeup.

Choose an essence or serum if you have oily skin. Choose a cream or

lotion if you have dry skin.

For anti-aging, use a vitamins C and E combined serum in the morning

and a retinol serum or retinol cream at night. If you wish, add a peptide
serum.

For acne treatment, use a niacinamide serum and an BHA.

Step Four: Moisturize

The best products will have occlusive moisturizers, humectant
moisturizers, and hyaluronic acid. Cream moisturizers are thick oil-in-water
emulsions made with mineral oil or lanolin. Moisturizing lotions are lighter.
They have high water content and a specialty ingredient to give them slip (a
nice feel). Gel moisturizers are clear and thick. They are made with less
water than lotions. Oils are occlusive moisturizers. They form a barrier on
the skin and keep other ingredients out.

Spraying an oil and water mixture on your face will provide temporary
hydration and will feel nice but will not provide the same long lasting
moisturization as a cream or lotion.

For daytime, you may wish to use a combination

moisturizer/foundation/sunscreen. These products can be very convenient.
BB Cream (blemish balm) is usually a tinted moisturizer often with the
addition of sunscreen and may contain a dusting of antioxidants. CC
Cream (color and correct cream) is usually a standard liquid foundation
that may contain a dusting of antioxidants.

At night, you may wish to apply a moisturizer or moisturizing oil (such

as squalane) after any repairing serums. If you use a hydrating serum and
your skin feels refreshed, you do not necessarily need a cream or lotion
moisturizer.

Eye Cream (optional)

The majority, professional opinion is that a separate eye cream is not
necessary. Eye cream is simply an additional expensive moisturizer. Use
your regular chosen products around but not too close to your eyes.

There is an exception if you have dark under-eye circles which can be

exacerbated by slow blood flow. To increase the blood flow use a
regenerating eye cream with vitamin K. There are clinical studies
demonstrating that vitamin K in eye cream stimulates microcirculation and
increases collagen production.

Day Time Step Five: Sun Protection

This is not optional! All skin care professionals agree that sun protection
is the single most important step in any skin care routine.
 Sunscreen and sunblock are not the same thing and you may want to use
both daily.

Sunscreens work by absorbing UV rays and changing them into a

wavelength of light that is not harmful to the skin. UVA and UBA are
different wavelengths, both of which cause DNA damage, lead to formation
of free radicals, cause wrinkling, and can lead to skin cancer.

Make sure to use a “broad spectrum” product to protect against both

types. Some sunscreens (especially SPF tinted moisturizers and face
lotions) only protect against UVB. They do not contain the blocking
ingredients that protect against UVA rays (which cause both skin cancer and
premature aging) so check the label.

Chemical sunscreens with avobenzone, octinoxate, oxybenzone need

time (20 minutes) to soak into your skin.

Sunblocks work by creating a physical block that sits on the skin like a
barrier. Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are common sunblocks. These
minerals can be less irritating but they also can be unflattering and leave a
white film on your face. Mineral sunscreens will provide immediate
protection.

You can absolutely use a foundation, tinted moisturizer, BB or CC cream

to achieve sun protection. Loose pressed powders can and should be layered
on top to create a physical barrier.

Do you forget to apply sunscreen to your hands? Here is a “try this at

home” hack for sun protection. Keep an SPF lotion in your car and apply it
to your hands when you stop at a red light.

Application and Combining Products

Putting one product over another can decrease the chance of absorption.
However, most skin care companies say this is fine (no surprise).
Nonetheless, it is best to allow plenty of individualized absorption time,
especially for expensive items.
 Apply vitamin C to clean dry skin. If applied to damp skin, vitamin C
becomes destabilized and inactivated and will have no antioxidant effect.
Leave your vitamin C (or C+E serum) it to do its work before applying
anything additional. If using vitamin C in the morning, wait 10-15 minutes
before proceeding. Some of the product will be absorbed immediately, but
the longer the better.

Apply your exfoliating acid directly to skin and not on top of another
product. Ideally you should let it work for several minutes (20 minutes if
you have it or even overnight) before applying anything else, such as a
moisturizer.

If you buy an exfoliating acid cleanser, know that most of your product is
going down the drain. Buy your exfoliating acid as a liquid that you apply
with a cotton pad or on an already saturated pad.

Common advice is to use a retinoid a minimum of two times per week,

depending on your age. Retinoids need three to six months to show results.
Evidence suggests retinoids can increase sunburns so it is more common to
use a retinol product at night.

Do not exfoliate and then apply a retinoid. The exfoliating acid will
interfere with the retinoid. Many companies say their products take this
issue into account (by microencapsulating the retinol) and have combating
agents, but it seems better just to use them separately.

Similarly, do not exfoliate and then apply vitamin C. The exfoliating acid
will nullify the effectiveness of the vitamin C.

You may use a retinoid with niacinamide. However, both can be irritating
so often doctors recommend using one in the morning and the other at
night.

Scientifically, it doesn’t matter if your skin is super wet or dry before you
apply an oil-based moisturizing lotion. Similarly, it does not matter if you
pat or rub the product on.
 Chapter Four: Cult Favorites and
Other Great Products

Prior to doing this research, I had a deep bias in favor of boutique skin
care companies. Their products seem more luxurious, have more appealing
packaging, and create a sense of inclusion. However, the more important
scientifically supported research and development breakthroughs usually
come from the big companies who put more money into research. If you
want science backed skin care, the larger brands provide a better bang for
your buck. And, ironically, many of the boutique brands are actually owned
by the giant cosmetic corporations.

Here is a list of big companies and some of the boutique brands they
own: Estee Lauder owns Aveda, Clinique, Crème de la Mer, Dr.
Jart+, Origins, Prescriptives, and is an investor in Deciem/The
Ordinary. L’Oreal owns BioMedic, Biotherm, Kiehls, La Roche Posay,
Lancome, Maybelline, Skinceuticals and Vichy. Johnson & Johnson
owns Aveeno, Clean & Clear, Neutragena, and ROC. Shisedio
owns Bare Minerals. Procter & Gamble owns SK-II and
Murad. Unilever owns Kate Sommerville and Murad.

Some smaller companies are still privately owned. These include cult
favorites such as Paula’s Choice, Drunk Elephant, Tata Harper,
Thayers and Sunday Riley.

The products listed below are not necessarily products I endorse and I
have not tried them all. These are the products that I most frequently
encountered online and on podcasts and was most curious about. Paula
Begoun, the cosmetic cop, has a book called Don’t Go To The Cosmetics
Counter Without Me. The latest addition was written in 2012. It has an
amazing directory of companies and products and hopefully the next
addition will review many of the products listed here.
 Cleansers
Remember the goal is to just clean your face for your next product
application. Choose a cleansing oil if your skin is dry, choose a cleansing
milk if your skin is sensitive. Avoid detergents.

Bioderma Sensibio H20: A Micellar water cleanser meant to be left on

rather than washed off. Good for makeup removal. $15/ 8.3 oz.

Biologique Recherche Lait U: A cult favorite almond oil cleanser

with vitamin E, zinc, potassium, and fatty acids. $33/ 8.4 oz.

CeraVe Hydrating Facial Cleanser: A simple serviceable mild cleanser.

An excellent choice. $15/ 12 oz.

Cetaphil: Contains sodium laurel sulfate, a harsh detergent, and

parabens. Can be drying. $9/ 8 oz.

CosRx Good Morning Cleanser: Contains exfoliating acids. $11/ 5 oz.

Garden of Wisdom Cleansing Oil: GoW has several excellent cleansing

oils for a fraction of the cost from other companies. The normal skin option
contains olive oil, sweet almond oil, hazelnut oil and rosemary oil. $3.85/ 1
oz.

Glossier Milky Jelly Cleanser: Contains rosewater (an anti-

inflammatory) and panthenol (vitamin B5) $18/ 6 oz.

Tata Harper Regenerating Cleanser: Gentle non-foaming sunflower

seed oil cleanser. $82/ 4.1 oz.

AHA Exfoliating Acids

Apply the AHA directly to dry clean skin and allow at least 20 minutes
for full absorption.

Biologique Recherche P50 Lotion: A combination of lactic acid and

usnic acid, an anti-inflammatory. Everyone agrees it smells awful but it is
effective. $62/ 5.1 oz.

Pixie Glow Tonic: A 5% glycolic acid exfoliating toner with a low price
point that makes it a favorite. $15/ 3.4 oz.

Sunday Riley Good Genes: A 10% lactic acid product that the internet
swears cannot be duped. Also contains arnica and licorice extracts which
may or may not actually calm skin. A cult favorite. $105/ 1 oz.

Dennis Gross Peel Pads: A well regarded mix of AHAs (glycolic acid,
lactic acid, mandelic acid and citric acid). $88 for 30 pads.

BHA/Salicylic acid
Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting Liquid BHA %2: Contains a high
concentration of salicylic acid to clarify, moisturize, and detoxify the skin.
It helps with the appearance of blackheads, enlarged pores, and rough
skin. $29/ 4oz.

The Ordinary AHA + BHA 2% Peeling Solution: Effective treatment

for acne and fine lines. $7.20 / 1 oz.

Retinol Serums
Use a retinol serum one or more times per week depending on your age.

Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Serum: Contains 1% retinol

(hydroxypinacolone retinoate), peptides (including matrixyl) and hyaluronic
acid in a time released formula. $88 1/oz.

Sunday Riley Luna Sleeping Oil: Contains the best research supported
form of retinol ester (retinyl retinoate) and avocado oil. Also contains blue
dye which will be visible on your face and fragrance which some people
find unpleasant. $105/ 1 oz.

Paula’s Choice Clinical 1% Retinoid: Contains retinol, vitamin C,

peptides, and skin calming ingredients in an airtight pump. $56 / 1 oz.
 Vitamin C Serums
Look for a product that contains at least 10% vitamin C, in an opaque
container, possibly combined with vitamin E since they work
synergistically together.

CosRx Triple C Lightning Liquid: 20.5% ascorbic acid. Comes in a

dark vial dropper for product preservation. The most cost-effective choice.
$27/ 1 oz.

Drunk Elephant C Firma: 15% L-ascorbic acid with 1% vitamin E and

0.5% ferulic acid in a fast-absorbing base. $80/ 1 oz.

IS Clinical Super Serum: 15% Vitamin C (l-ascorbic acid) and copper

tripeptide. $88 .05 oz.

Paula’s Choice C15 Super Booster: 15% ascorbic acid with vitamin E
and ferulic acid. $49 /.67 oz

Peter Thomas Roth Potent Serum: 20% THD Ascorbate (the fat-
soluble form of vitamin C) in an airtight pump. $95/ 1 oz.

Skinceuticals CE Ferulic Vitamin C Serum: A cult favorite. 15% L-

ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and 1% alpha-tocopherol (vitamin E). $166/ 1 oz.

Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum: 25% THD

Ascorbate (the fat-soluble form of vitamin C) in an airtight pump. $85/ 1
oz.

Niacinamide Serums
The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + 1% Zinc: Can reduce blemishes
and supplement other acne treatments. $5.90 / 1 oz.

Glossier Super Pure Serum: Niacinamide plus zinc also designed to

calm skin. $28/ .5 oz.

Olay Regenerist Regenerating Serum: Niacinamide plus vitamin E.

$26/ 1.7 oz.
 Moisturizing Serums
Hylamide Sub-Q Anti Age: Hyaluronic acid, copper peptide, and
matrixyl. $22/ 1 oz.

Kate Somerville Wrinkle Warrior: Hyaluronic acid, amino acids, and

glucosamine. $95 1.7 oz.

Skinceuticals Resveratrol BE: 1% resveratrol and 1% vitamin E. $153 /

1 oz.

Timeless Co-10 Serum: 2% concentration of co-enzyme 10, matrixyl,

and hyaluronic acid. $25/ 1 oz.

Vintner’s Daughter Active Botanical Serum: 22 different botanicals

including some (such as rose and lavender) known to irritate the skin. $135/
1 oz.

Essence/Moisturizing Toner
Clinique Even Better Brighter Essence: Sodium hyaluronate,
glucosamine, and licorice. $66 / 7 oz.

SK-II Facial Treatment Essence: A cult favorite Asian style

moisturizing toner that likely does not contain any known anti-aging
ingredients, but has some exfoliating properties. $99 / 2.5 oz.

Pyunkang Yul Essence Toner: An Asian style hydrating toner made

from astragalus root extract. $18.88 / oz.

Moisturizers
CeraVe Facial Moisturizing Lotion PM: Contains ceramides,
niacinamide, and hyaluronic acid. $15 / 3 oz.

Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Lift and Firm Night Cream: Contains

vitamin E, vitamin C, and ceramides. $78 1.7 oz.
 La Mer Crème de la Mer: This famously expensive cream contains
lactic acid from seaweed algae, sea kelp (a water binding agent), lecithin, a
natural moisture, sunflower oil and wheat germ. $175 / 1 oz.

Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair: Squalane, vitamin C, and

hyaluronic acid. $98 1.7 oz.

Oils
It is not hard to find an inexpensive cold-pressed oil. Oils are a good
category for less expensive products.

Drunk Elephant Virgin Marula Luxury Face Oil. Marula oil is high in
vitamin E, omega 6, and antioxidants. $40 /1 oz.

Caudalie Vine[Activ] Overnight Detox Oil: Contains grape-seed oil

and rose hip oil. $50 / 1 oz.

The Ordinary Rose Hip Oil: Rose hip oil contains linoleic acid (omega
6). $9.80 / 1 oz.

Eye Creams
Benton Fermentation Eye Cream: Contains ceramides, hyaluronic acid,
aloe, and vitamin B5. $27 / 1 oz.

Mad Hippie Eye Cream: Contains the peptide matrixyl, vitamin C,

vitamin E, ceramides, and other ingredients. $25/ .5 oz.

Neutragena Rapid Wrinkle Repair Eye Cream: Contains retinol,

vitamin C, and hyaluronic acid. Not dissimilar to full face moisturizers. $22
/ .5 oz.

Peter Thomas Roth Power K Eye Rescue: Vitamin K may be effective

against dark circles. Also contains vitamin C, green tea, vitamin E, and
arnica. $100 / .5 oz.

Shiseido Benefiance WrinkleResist24 Intensive Eye Contour Cream:

Contains chlorella extract (algae), mukurossi extract (a botanical), and
gambir extract an astringent. $60 /.5 oz.

Hand Creams
Belif The True Cream Aqua Bomb: Comfrey leaf and macadamia nut
seed oil. $38 / 1.7 oz.

Kiehl’s Ultimate Strength Hand Salve: Avocado and sesame oil,

squalene, and vitamin E. $28 / 7.8 oz.

Lip Balms
Aquaphor Lip Treatment: Castor oil and vitamin E. $4 / .35 oz.

Burt’s Bees: Beeswax based with vitamin E. $3 / stick.

Kiehls Lip Balm 1: Squalane, aloe, and vitamin E. $9.50 / .5 oz.

Sun Protection
Alba Botanica Sensitive Mineral Sunscreen: Titanium dioxide, zinc,
oils, and vitamin E. $7.50 / 4 oz.

It Cosmetics Full Coverage CC Cream: Zinc and Titanium dioxide,

snail mucin, and 50 other antioxidant ingredients in small amounts.
Available in many skin tones. $38 / 1 oz.

Jane Iredale BB Cream: Mineral cream foundation in many skin tones.

Titanium dioxide. Vegan. $48 / 1.7 oz.

Olay Regenerist Regenerating Lotion with Broad Spectrum SPF 50:

Avobenzone based. Also contains peptides. $27 / 1.7 oz.

SkinCeuticals Physical Fusion UV Defense: Broad mineral spectrum

sunscreen with titanium dioxide, zinc, and plankton. $34 / 1.7 oz.
 Supergoop Everyday Sunscreen Broad SPF 50: A well regarded
chemical sunscreen. $19 / 2.4 oz.

Masks
There are two very different types of masks: hydrating masks and drying
masks. Both types produce immediate results but are not as beneficial as
serums for long term facial rejuvenation. Masks tend to have ingredients
(such as botanical extracts) that sound more beneficial than they really are.

Do not be fooled by masks claiming to “detox” your skin. Only your

internal organs can remove toxins so these masks are not purifying and do
not detoxify your pores.

A moisturizing face mask will add immediate hydration until it is rinsed

off. They are great after an evening of over-indulgence or a poor night’s
sleep.

Clay masks absorb oil. A mask with kaolin (a mineral-rich clay), sea
mud, or charcoal will provide a gentle exfoliation. Kaolin is also called
china clay or white clay. A clay mask can make your pores appear smaller
(but it will not last). A clay mask may also be antibacterial and anti-
inflammatory (but these effects also will not last). Bentonite clay (with
volcanic ash) is very absorbent and works well on oily skin. Seaweed
Masks may contain alginate. When the mask dries it forms a film that feels
tightening. This may give the look and feel of lifting but the benefit goes
away when you wash off the mask.

It is easy to make masks at home that can give your skin vitamins and
antioxidants naturally. The following suggestions come from The Age Fix:
An at-home apricot mask provides vitamin A. An at-home pineapple mask
provides vitamin C. An at home orange juice and lemon juice mask will
function as an AHA with vitamin C. An at-home mask made from coffee
grounds and olive oil will provide antioxidants and exfoliation. When
purchasing masks, avoid irritating ingredients such as lavender, fragrances,
and mints, and remember that most botanical ingredients will do nothing for
skin (although licorice is a known lightening agent).
 Aztec Secret Indian Healing Clay: 100% calcium bentonite clay. $9 /
15.5 oz.

Benton Snail Bee High Content Mask: Snail mucin, glycolic acid, and
hyaluronic acid for hydration. $25 / pack of 10.

Dr. Jart + Brightening Infusion Mask: Contains niacinamide, vitamin

C, and licorice. $9 / 1 mask.

PureDerm Collagen Eye Zone Mask: Contains collagen (which cannot

penetrate the dermis), green tea extract, and vitamin E. $24/ 10 pack.

SK-II Facial Treatment Mask: Like the essence, the active ingredient in
this mask is the patented yeast (galactomyces ferment filtrate) as a source of
peptides. A cult favorite. $95 / 1 mask.

Summer Fridays Jet Lag Mask: Another cult favorite that includes
vitamins, ceramides, and antioxidants. $48 / 2.25 oz.
 Chapter Five: Dupes

Dupes are products with the same or similar active ingredients in the
same or similar concentration as a more expensive product. Looking for
dupes is a great way to familiarize yourself with effective ingredients.

To find dupes, begin with the ingredient list. Since cosmetics are not
regulated by the FDA, companies do not have to list their ingredients on
their product website. Luckily, the Sephora, Dermstore, and Ulta Beauty
websites have complete ingredient lists for all the products they sell. After
finding the ingredient list, review the company’s product page for any
notable active ingredients. Google the first few ingredients and any active
ingredients and search for similar products.

If you love a product from a boutique company that is actually owned by

a large cosmetic company, you may find a dupe in their less expensive line
based on the exact same research and development. The following example
comes from The Beauty Brains podcast. It reports that Skinceuticals
A.G.E. Interrupter, which costs $168 for 1.7 oz, has the same patented
active ingredient (proxylane, a sugar that helps defend against water loss) as
L’Oreal Revitalift Triple Power Intensive Antiaging Day Cream, which
costs $25 for 1.7 oz.

You may be able to compare products at www.skincarisma.com/skincare-

product-comparison. Search two or more products and click compare. If the
products have been entered into the site (and the most popular brands are
often listed), the site will provide a product overview including price. It will
list notable ingredients and notable effects, ingredient preferences (such as
paraben free or vegan), and the comedogenic rating.

You can use this website to confirm dupes and also to prove otherwise.
For example, if you do a google search for a Tatcha The Water Cream
dupe, many people suggest using Belif The True Cream Aqua Bomb. The
skincarisma compare products tool confirms that both products fall into the
face skin care moisturizers category, however they are not really all that
similar. The Tatcha contains sodium hyaluronate and titanium dioxide,
which promotes wound healing and offers sun protection. The Belif
contains panthenol and ceramide 3, which promotes wound healing and is
anti-aging.

Alternatively, you can type a product into skinskoolbeauty.com and they

will suggest dupes.

The greatest dupe company is The Ordinary. Their serums and products
range from as low as $5 to $18. The products are named after the active
ingredient, such as AHA, and its percentage concentration.

The cult favorite vitamin C product is Skinceuticals CE Ferulic

Vitamin C. This product, which costs $166 per ounce, has a well-known
dupe, Timeless Skin Care 20% Vitamin C Plus E Ferulic Acid Serum,
which costs $17 per ounce. Both products are 15% vitamin C (ascorbic
acid), 1% vitamin E (tocopherol), and 0.5% ferulic acid. Skinceuticals has a
patent on a serum with 5% to 20% L-ascorbic acid, 0.5% to 5.0% ferulic
acid, and 0.5% to 2.0% vitamin E with a pH range between 2.5 -3.5. The
Timeless serum has a pH of 2.4.

La Mer Crème de la Mer was formulated way back in 1994. Its

specialized ingredients are algae, sea kelp, sunflower oil and wheat germ. If
these ingredients were worth $85 for .5 ounces then everyone else would be
using them and research and development teams at all the giant cosmetic
companies would have confirmed their superiority. Most people find that
good old Nivea Cream, which costs $6 for 13 ounces, is a serviceable dupe
because the products rely on the same base: mineral oil, petroleum, and
glycerin. The La Mer also contains antioxidants and an AHA, but since it
comes in a jar those products are likely to be destabilized.

The great white whale of dupes is Sunday Riley Good Genes, which
costs $105 for 1 oz. The internet is convinced that this product cannot be
duped. Good Genes contains 5% lactic acid and has a pH of 2.6, which is
low and releases more exfoliant on your skin. It also contains several
temporary brightening ingredients. According to Sunday Riley the other
active ingredients in Good Genes are licorice, lemongrass and aloe. Not
surprisingly, The Ordinary has a product simply called Lactic Acid 5%
which costs $6.50 for 1 oz. You could use this product with a licorice,
lemongrass, and aloe serum such as Eminence Organics Bright Skin
Licorice Root Booster-Serum which costs $56. However, since the
lemongrass and licorice root extract are the last two ingredients in Good
Genes, and they are not known to have any anti-aging benefits, it may be
better to use a second product with ingredients used in Good Genes in
higher quantities. The first two ingredients in Good Genes are prickly pear
extract and blue agave extract. The suspending oil is squalane. Youth to
The People Super Berry Hydrate And Glow Oil is a prickly pear and
squalane serum that costs $44 for 1 oz.

Biologique Recherche P50 is also a cult favorite exfoliator. It cost $115

for 8.4 oz. There are several versions of P50, including a 1970s version that
is very harsh and leaves most people’s skin red and irritated. The standard
P50 has at least five exfoliating acids: gluconolacone (a poly-hydroxy acid
that is gentler than glycolic acid), lactic acid, malic acid, salicylic acid and
phytic acid. P50 is also known for its terrible smell because it contains cider
vinegar and sulphur. The first four ingredients in P50 are water,
gluconolactone, lactic acid and propylene glycol and niacinamide.
Similarly, the first four ingredients in Glossier Solution Exfoliating Skin
Perfector are water, lactic acid, glycolic acid, and gluconolactone and it
also contains niacinamide. The Glossier product costs $24 for 4.4 oz.

Dennis Gross Peel Pads are so popular there are now several versions.
The Alpha Beta Daily Extra Strength Pads cost $88 for 30 pads and contain
various acids: glycolic acid, salicylic acid, mandelic acid, lactic acid, citric
acid, malic acid and willow bark extract (potentially a BHA). British
company Nip + Tuck Glycolic Fix Night Pads Extreme contain 5%
glycolic acid, salicylic acid, lactic acid, and niacinamide and cost $12 for 60
pads. Alternatively, natural beauty product Juice Beauty Green Apple Peel
Brightening Pads contain malic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid, and
gluconolactone and cost $12 for 14 pads.

Skinceuticals Resveratrol BE contains resveratrol, niacinamide,

antioxidants, and vitamin E and costs $153 1/ oz. Paula’s Choice Resist
Weightless Advanced Repairing Toner contains resveratrol, niacinamide,
antioxidants and vitamin E and costs $24 for 4 oz.

Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair costs $68 for 1 oz and contains
bifida ferment lysate, tripeptides, squalane, sodium hyaluronate and vitamin
E. Missha Time Revolution Night Repair costs $49 for 1.69 oz and
contains bifida ferment lysate, tripeptides, sunflower seed oil, sodium
hyaluronate and vitamin E.

SK-II Facial Essence cost $169 for 5.5 oz. Its active ingredient is a
patented version of the yeast galactomyces ferment filtrate. This ingredient
is a yeast that may improve skin’s barrier and may brighten skin but is not
known to have any anti-aging properties. Soko Glam Benton Firmation
Essence also contains galactomyces ferment filtrate. It costs $27 for 3.38
oz.

Tata Harper Restorative Eye Cream costs $98 for .5 oz. The first five
ingredients are aloe, water, safflower oil, lavender (which can be irritating)
and glycerin. The active ingredients are arnica, helichrysm essential oil (an
anti-inflammatory oil), menyanthes trifoliate and date palm extract, two
botanicals with dubious skin care benefits. Burt’s Bees Skin Nourishment
Eye Cream also contains aloe, water, safflower oil and various botanicals
and costs $18 for .5 oz.

Peter Thomas Roth Power K Eye Rescue contains vitamin K and

arnica and costs $100 for .5 oz. CSI (Cosmeceutical Science Institute) sells
Recovery Eye Cream with vitamin K and arnica and costs $14.50 for .5 oz.
 Chapter Six: Mistakes of The
Uninformed

When I first sought out skin care recommendations, I was easily swayed
by online endorsements and eager to find bargains.

My first purchase was the CosRx Triple C Lightening Serum after I

read about it in New York Magazine. At $27 for 1 oz., it seemed like a
reasonably priced product. However, I knew nothing about vitamin C. I did
not know what it was supposed to achieve and that it was unstable. I did not
always bother to return the dropper to the bottle and soon the product turned
orange. At that point, whenever I used it I was introducing free radicals to
my skin. (I have since thrown the bottle away).

Why did I purchase Mario Badescu Seaweed Night Cream and Mario
Badescu Protein Night Cream? Mario Badescu is a respected company,
their packaging is a simple green on white (very pharmaceutical looking),
and the prices are mid-range. The seaweed night cream comes in a jar
(meaning any antioxidants have been destabilized) and contains elastin,
collagen and sodium hyaluronate. I now know the elastin and collagen
cannot penetrate the dermis even if the elastin is “hydrolyzed.” Its
advertised special ingredient is bladderwrack extract to “soften and nourish
the skin,” which I now recognize as meaningless jargon. The protein night
cream also comes in a jar. It contains very basic moisturizers such as
petroleum, glycerin and dimethicone. It also contains a dusting of retinol
palmitate and collagen both of which are unlikely to be stable, in sufficient
quantities to have any effect, or achieve dermis penetration.

Straight talk here, I am embarrassed to say I purchased a number of

products from Perricone MD. Dr. Perricone has been approaching
cosmeceuticals from a scientific angle for decades and he has written
several best sellers. Unfortunately, the majority professional opinion is that
many ingredients he espouses, such as DMAE, are not all that effective and
he packages most products in jars. I purchased the Firming Neck Therapy
(since discontinued) which contains resveratrol, vitamin E and sodium
hyaluronate in a jar, ingredients definitely not worth the cost of this product.
I also purchased his broad spectrum SPF with 4% titanium dioxide. There
are tons of way less expensive creams with 4% titanium dioxide.

For exfoliation I purchased Bio-Peel Neogen Lemon Gauze Peeling.

The Bio-Peel pads contain mostly citric acid and a small amount of tartaric
acid, glycolic acid and lactic acid. Lemon has a low pH and is not
considered one of the superior exfoliating acids.

I bought The Ordinary Caffeine Solution 5% EGCG after I saw before

and after pictures posted on a Facebook group page of a woman first with
large bags under her eyes and a second picture with seemingly transformed
non-puffy eyes. First of all, under eye bags are not one of my skin concerns.
Secondly, there is no clinical evidence that EGCG when applied topically,
can fight under-eye bags and there is no clinical evidence that caffeine has
any benefit for puffy eyes. This woman probably just had a better night’s
sleep before the second picture.

I bought two different hyaluronic acid serums at the same time not
knowing what either product was meant to achieve. I bought the Sub-Q
Anti Age Hylamide from Deciem which is hyaluronic acid plus peptides
and The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5. These serums are both
pretty much the same thing except one contains peptides. I certainly didn’t
need to buy both.

I bought a sample size of Biologique Recherche Lotion P50. At first my

skin hated it and became red and blotchy. I have since learned to use it
properly with better results. However, I do not notice a difference between
the P50 and the less expensive Pixie Glow Tonic.

Although it was dumb luck, I did make a few decent purchases. I bought
Andalou Naturals Natural Tint SPF 30 with resveratrol. This is a BB
Cream with 20% Zinc Oxide and a dusting of resveratrol and coQ10. The
tube says the product is “age-defying.” I now know that this means simply
that the cream provides sun protection. The ingredients are not anti-aging.
Nonetheless, this is a good product because I use it and get the SPF
benefits.

I tried the Neutrogena SkinClearing Mineral Powder with microclear

technology because it was on sale for $1. The powder has SPF and it creates
a barrier that protects your skin from sun damage. The powder also contains
salicylic acid and it keeps away acne very nicely. I have since purchased
this product at its full price of $11.

I fully recommend the Benton Snail Bee High Content Mask. I now
know that the effects of masks are short lived, but this mask will take you
from tired looking to normal in twenty minutes.
 Chapter Seven: What Else Can I Do
For My Skin?

Nutraceuticals and Nutrient Supplements

The health of your skin and its appearance is closely linked with your
overall health. Diet, environmental exposures, stressors, and lifestyle habits
can influence the genes that influence the condition of our skin. So yes,
your diet will affect the condition of your skin. In general, a diet of healthy
low sugar foods is associated with fewer wrinkles and younger looking
skin.

The list of skin friendly foods will surprise no one: olive oil, fish, yogurt,
fruits, and green vegetables. The foods associated with skin wrinkling are
also no surprise: fatty processed foods, high fat dairy products, and sugar.
We all want to eat more of the former and less of the later.

In addition to eating a healthy diet, there is good research to suggest we

should all be drinking green tea daily. Green tea contains important
antioxidants and anti-inflammatory chemicals. There are dozens of studies
to confirm its biological effects ameliorating sun damage. Green tea has
also been shown to improve dermal elastic tissue. The highest grade of
green tea is Japanese Matcha. Look for a high concentration of EGCG per
ounce.

Your diet can also impact your skins' resistance to sun and pollution
damage. Lycopene, a member of the vitamin A family called carotenoids, is
an antioxidant with UV protecting properties. Lycopene is found in apricot,
grapefruit, watermelon and tomato. Fish oil and/or additional fatty acid oil
supplements can help protect your skin from UV damage and may slightly
increase the dermal thickness and elasticity.
 Taking supplements is tricky because the industry is unregulated. An
evening primrose oil supplement has been shown to improve skin
smoothness. A borage oil supplement may help with skin hydration.
However, there almost no evidence that ingredients ingested orally enhance
collagen, elastin, or fibroblast production. For example, while marine fish
collagen supplements may contain signal peptides, collagen and peptides
entering our digestive systems are not delivered to our skin.

What about vitamins C and E? High oral doses of vitamins C and E can
actually create increased levels of free radicals. Similarly, a number of
studies have indicated that beta-carotene taken as a supplement acts as a
pro-oxidant.

Acne
Acne is caused by increased oil production, clogged pores, and bacteria.
Acne can be triggered by hormones, stress, and foods. Acne should be
treated with antibiotics, exfoliation, oil removal, and vitamin A. The
antibiotic will help to kill off the P. acnes bacteria. Regular exfoliation and
the use of retinoids will slough off dead skin cells.

Blackheads and whiteheads are caused when a buildup of sebum and

dead skin cells clogs the inside of a pore which can become infected with
bacteria. Blackheads are open comedones. Dead epidural cells block the
pore, oxidize in the open air, and turn black. The oxidized keratin on top is
black, but underneath is white. Whiteheads are closed comedones. Because
the comedone is covered by the epidermis, the cyst remains white. The
word “noncomedogenic” means a product or ingredient that will not block
the pores and cause acne.

If you have blackheads, try using a pore strip such as Biore a maximum
of three times per week. Used more often it will irritate your skin and cause
breakouts.

To treat acne, look for these ingredients: Salicylic acid will keep pores
open. Azelaic Acid contains salicylic acid. Benzoyl peroxide functions as a
drying and peeling agent and it also inhibits bacteria growth. If salicylic
acid and benzoyl peroxide are not working, try a product with sulphur.
Lauric acid (from coconut oil), tea tree oil, and zinc are additional good
anti-bacterial ingredients. You could also take an oral zinc supplement.

Daily Routine to Treat Acne: The four steps for acne treatment are 1)
unclog pores; 2) kill bacteria and reduce excess oil; 3) increase cell turnover
and 4) spot treat.

Wash your face with a salicylic acid cleanser. Unclog your pores with
BHA exfoliation. Increase cell turnover with retinol and niacinamide. This
may be counter intuitive but you should also moisturize. Use a light
hyaluronic acid serum (and avoid creams and heavy oils). Finally, to spot
treat try Mario Badusco Drying Lotion with salicylic acid and calamine
which costs $17 per 1 oz.

For serious acne, consult a dermatologist. A professional can prescribe an

antibiotic such as tetracycline or erythromycin which you can use in
conjunction with a topical retinoid and a benzoyl peroxide antibiotic
cleanser. The doctor may use light treatment to kill bacteria, shrink your
sebaceous glands, and reduce follicle inflammation.

Water
Despite celebrities constantly attributing their genetically perfect
completions to the fact that they drink eight glasses of water per day,
drinking water is probably not going to improve the appearance of your
skin. It is true that dehydrated skin is dull and water is essential to skin’s
metabolism and regeneration. However, there is no clinical evidence that
drinking water can hydrate the skin from the inside out. The way to
moisturize your face is with moisturizer.

Natural Beauty Products

Natural does not necessarily equal good skin care. In cosmetics, labeling
a product “natural” can be very misleading. Ammonium lauryl sulfate is a
salt and it is natural, but it is also a harsh detergent worth avoiding. Many
companies that claim to be natural use coloring agents, preservatives, film
filers and slip agents. If they didn’t their product would become moldy,
discolored, and disgusting.

Natural or organic beauty is often more expensive and sometimes it’s a

good product and sometimes it is not. It is better to review the ingredients
and see if they achieve your aims such as being anti-inflammatory or
providing sun protection.

The science says parabens are not a risk in personal care products but
almost all natural beauty products will strive to be paraben-free.

At Home Gadgets
At home light gadgets are not as effective as medical options used by
dermatologists, however they can be more cost effective. A red light LED
device can help heal wounds and reduce wrinkles. Paula’s Choice
recommends the Tanda Luxe Skin Rejunevation Photofacial Device for
$195. A blue light LED treatment can help with acne but the general
consensus is that an acne sufferer will have better results with a good skin
care regiment rather than with an LED light.

Micro-needling involves using a roller with tiny needles. Research

suggests these rollers stimulate collagen growth. The risk here is that you
are wounding your skin and can eventually damage it.

At home laser hair removal is available with a devise called the Tria
Laser 4x. It is cheaper than salon laser treatments and most people consider
it a good investment.

A home humidifier is worth trying if your skin feels dry. A machine that
boils water into micro-free steam will keep your face moist and reduce
flaking.

Scar Treatments
Silicone sheets are successful in treating hypertrophic and keloidal
scarring (localized ridged area from a wound). Topically applied, vitamin E
does not improve scar appearance.
 Facials
Facials are great self-care. As far as skin care, facials are essentially
massage, exfoliation with a strong percentage AHA, and serum application.
Now that you are well educated, you can do the exfoliation and serum
application at home. Have a facial to pamper yourself not to treat your skin.

Medical Procedures
What you do to your skin is up to you. Botox is effective at reducing
wrinkles. Dermal fillers plump creases. Juvederm is hyaluronic acid
injected into your skin cells. Ablative lasers resurface the skin. Chemical
peels improve the appearance of wrinkles, make skin smoother, and reduce
discoloration. Intense pulsed light (IPL) and non-ablative lasers have the
least dramatic results (maybe a good thing). All of these procedures have
scientifically proven positive results and associated risks.
 Conclusion
Have you ever run into a friend you haven’t seen for several months and
thought “Wow, she looks so much younger!” Me neither. I also tend to think
that all the real housewives and other Hollywood personalities who spend
all day every day on their appearance tend to look exactly as old as they are.
Clearly, there are no miracle products out there that everyone else is using.
The people who care about skin care probably use or have tried the products
mentioned here.

However, it is also true that we feel our best when our skin, the body’s
largest organ, is healthy and blemish free. It is also true that a dewy
complexion is only one part of skin care. The other part is self-care: the
intentional practice of treating your body with loving kindness and making
an effort to feel good, look good, and improve your health.

Since following the recommendations outlined here, my skin looks its

best. I have little or no break outs and the overall appearance is hydrated
and robust. That being said, no one--and I mean no one--has commented
that my skin looks better or that I look younger. The subtle differences are
apparent only to me. Nonetheless, I am glad that I took the time to decipher
the medical terms so I could be more informed about what I put on my skin
now and in the future.

The best advice is to purchase the least expensive product that has the
ingredient you want in the delivery form you want and see if it works. If it
doesn’t, then move on to a more expensive product. Look out for
meaningless phrases such as “soothing botanicals” and “smooths the
appearance of superficial lines.”

Remember that packaging matters. Many of these ingredients, (especially

retinol and vitamin C) are not particularly stable. They will be ineffective if
they are exposed to light and oxygen. Look for products with an opaque
pump delivery system. Do not buy expensive ingredients that come in jars,
especially antioxidants.
 My first-choice product contains the ingredients I want for the least
amount of money. That product can often be purchased from Deciem or can
be found in a drug store brand that also owns a boutique brand. I also feel
comfortable purchasing Paula’s Choice. The products are mid-range in
price and only contain ingredients backed by science. For example, you
won’t find a Paula’s Choice product containing diamond dust (I’m looking
at you Tata Harper).

Some very expensive companies seem not worth the money at all. In my
opinion, these include La Mer, Skinceuticals, Kate Somerville, Mario
Badescu, and Tata Harper. On the other hand, if you have the money and
want to invest it in skin care, Sunday Riley and Peter Thomas Roth
products often include research supported active ingredients.

Today I wash my face with an inexpensive oil-based cleanser from

Garden of Wisdom. In the morning I apply a vitamin C ester, Ascorbyl
Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% in Vitamin F from The Ordinary. I
follow that with a broad-spectrum BB Cream. In the evening, I wash my
face and apply either The Ordinary 2% Retinol, Paula’s Choice Retinol
1% or Differin Gel. Once per week I exfoliate with the products I currently
own: Pixie Glow Tonic, P50 and Good Genes. If I need moisture, I use a
hyaluronic acid serum with peptides.

If you have a product you would like to see included in the next guide,
email your suggestions to:

skincare2019guide@gmail.com.

If you enjoyed this ebook and found the information helpful, please leave
a review and a five-star rating.

https://www.amazon.com/review/create-review/listing
 References
Websites

beautybrains.com
beautifulwithbrains.com
carolinehirons.com
futurederm.com
paulaschoice.com
skinskoolbeauty.com
skincharisma.com

Books

Begoun, Paula, The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here, Beginning Press
(2015).

Begoun, Paula, Don’t Go To The Cosmetic Counter Without Me,

Beginning Press (2012).

Logan, Alan C. Your Skin, Younger, Sourcebooks, Inc. (2010).

Marmur, Ellen M.D.

Simple Skin Beauty. Every Woman’s Guide To A Lifetime of Healthy,

Gorgeous Skin, Atria Books (2009).

Perricone, Nicolas, M.D., The Perricone Prescription. A Physician’s 28-

Day Program For Total Body And Face Rejuvenation, HarperResource
(2002).

Yarosh, Daniel, PhD. The New Science of Perfect Skin, Broadway

Books (2008).

Youn, Antony, M.D., The Age Fix: A leading Plastic Surgeon Reveals
How To Really Look 10 Years Younger, Grand Central Life & Style (2016).