YOSEMITE

BIGWALLS
THE ULTIMATE GUIDE

Erik Sloan
 Reno,
Formation Name
Lake Tahoe
Trail Name 395
Locations To
Hetch Hetchy Rt. 120
P Parking Tuolumne 120 Lee Vining Yosemite
Meadows Creek
49 Highway Name Campground
120 Mammoth Lakes,
Formal Trail Bishop
Groveland,
Climber Trail San Francisco Yosemite Valley
(this map area)
Road 140
Bike Path El Portal, Mariposa,
Streams, Rivers Merced, Santa Cruz Wawona

41
Oakhurst, Fresno, Yosemite
Los Angeles
Falls Wall

Yosemite
Falls Trail

Camp 4 Swan
Wall Slab
To Foresta, P

Tamarack Flat Campground Yosemite

Camp 4 Lodge
To Eagle Peak, P
Yosemite Falls,
Camp 4
lly
Ribbon Gu
Fall Wall ap
lC Ranger er P
E
El Capitan ed Riv
East Ledges Rock Merc

Old Big Oak Flat Rd (Hwy 120) Zodiac El Capitan

Talus P
Picnic Area P Sentinel
P P
P

P El Cap P El Cap Sentinel

Meadow Bridge Creek Presidential
To El Portal, P P Cathedral
P
Tuolumne P Boulder
Beach Picnic
120
Lower Area
Cathedral Middle Cathedral
140 Boulders Lost
P Cathedral
Brother
Wall Higher Cathedral
41 of Ages Cathedral Spires
To Wawona
The Gunsight
Leaning
Dark Side Tower
Wall
Fifi
Buttress Bridalveil
Creek

Artist: Roger Putnam

 To Porcupine To Rt. 120
Flat Trailhead To Porcupine
Flat Trailhead

Mt. Watkins

Snow
Creek
Switchbacks

Cree k
Lost Arrow Tenaya Quarter
North Domes
Dome
Church Rhombus
Sunnyside Bowl Washington Mirror
Bench Wall Column North Lake
Dome
P
Yosemite Arches Gully
Village Wall
The P
Ahwahnee
Half
Back- Dome
packers’
P
North Pines Porcelain
Campground
P
Yosemite Wall
Housekeeping
Stables
Camp (laundry) Curry P
King Air Village
Boulder (Mtn. Shop) Upper Pines Snake Dike Trail
P
Campground
Four M 9 O’Clock Beautiful Trail
ile Tra G.P. Apron Mt.
il ail
Wall Wilderness Parking Broderick John Muir Tr
Lot
Firefall Wall
Liberty
Glacier
Point
Cap

Jericho
Wall

Panorama Trail

Panorama
Cliff

N
Glacier
Point
Road

0 0.5 1 2 Miles

0 0.75 1.5 3 Kilometers

 Warning!
Use at your own risk (assumption of risk):
Climbing is inherently dangerous. Do not rely on information in this book. This is not an instructional
book. This is merely a guide to the bigwalls of Yosemite – nothing more. If you use this book to approach,
climb, or descend a route, always rely first on your own judgment and skill, as conditions may have
changed since this information was compiled or you may find yourself in an environment other than
what has been described in this book. Erik Sloan may have made mistakes in creating this book, as he
relied on a wide variety of sources, some of which could easily have made errors themselves, and/or
were not independently verified.

By using this book you assume the risk of its errors of reportage or judgment.
Disclaimer of Warranties:
Erik Sloan and Yosemite Bigwalls explicitly state that this book contains only opinions about these climbs. There is no
warranty, expressed or implied, of the contents of book. Any liability of the author or publisher with regards to the
content of this book is limited to the purchase price.

Yosemite Bigwalls
4790 Triangle Rd
Mariposa, CA 95338

© Copyright 2021 by Yosemite Bigwalls

All Rights Reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form, or by any electronic, mechanical or other
means, without the written permission of the publisher.

Book Layout and Design: Josh Kalven / Lone Pine Creative

Front Cover: Priscila Mewborne and Erik Sloan on pitch 11 of Zodiac, El Capitan. Photo: Ryan Sheridan.
Back Cover: The Misty Wall. Photo: Ted Distel
Copyediting: “Pass the Pitons” Pete Zabrok

Cam Sizing Chart

Tips Hands Off-width
Crack

Fingers Fists
cm .5 1 2 3 4 5 10 15 20
inch .2 .5 1 1.5 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
.75 6
Z4s/X4s .4
.5
4
5
C4s
.3 3
Black Diamond

.2 2
.1 1
.0 0.75
0.5
0.4
0.3
2
1 C3s
0
00 Aliens
000 1
7⁄8
¾
½
Fixe

3⁄8
1⁄3 4 TCUs 8 Master Cams
3 7
2 6
1 5
Metolius

0 4
00 3
000 2 New Friends
1
0 4
00 3
2
1
0.75
0.5
Wild Country

6
5
4
3 Zeros Totem Cams
2 1.8
1 1.5
1.25
1.0
Totem

0.8
0.65
0.5
 YOSEMITE
BIGWALLS
THE ULTIMATE GUIDE
By Erik Sloan

This book is for my partners – thanks for putting up

with me, lol, and may the adventures never end!
 Texas Flake

What do these ratings mean?

West Face V 5.7 A2 or C3 or 5.13a A0
FA: October 1966 - Warren Harding, Al MacDonald, Glen Denny
FFA: May 2001 - Leo Houlding, Jason Pickles

V Grade V means a climb that generally takes two days, includ-

ing an overnight on the cliff. This makes it a bigwall climb.

5.7 When you see free climbing and aid climbing ratings together,
the free climbing rating (in this case 5.7) is the hardest free
move you are required to do on the route. If you are only
climbing at a 5.7 level, you will have to aid climb A2 as well.

A0 bolt ladder A2 or C3 Means the aid climbing will be A2 (on a scale of A1 - A5) if
you use a hammer (i.e. nail pitons into the mountain). On
the other hand, the aid climbing will be C3 if you aid climb
"clean," (i.e. not use a hammer and rely only on nuts, cams,
and hooks). C1-C5 denotes the clean climbing rating. You
can see that this route is more difficult if you climb clean (C3
instead of A2) than if you use a hammer. This is common
and means that the clean climbing requires hooks or other
insecure pieces that, unlike pitons, might not hold a fall.

5.13a A0 Means if you are free climbing at the 5.13a grade, you barely
have to use any aid. A0 is the easiest grade in aid climbing;
it refers to climbing up a bolt ladder.

5.8 chimney

4 Erik Sloan relaxing on the Nose. Photo: Logan Talbot

 Topo Key
continue

line of rappel

slab

edge or arête

bolt
or rivet
ladder

hook moves
arête
bolt or rivet
Abbreviations:
ledge lb — lieback
thin — to 11/2 inches
knobs finger — 1/2 to 1 inch
face hand — 11/2 to 21/2 inches
climbing
fist — 21/2 to 31/2 inches
ow — offwidth; 31/2 inches
to 12 inches
bush chim — chimney; greater
than 12 inches
optional belay awk — awkward
exp — expanding
straight-in crack var — variation
KB — knifeblade piton
LA — lost arrow piton
incl — including
dikes

belay station 1

conifer

right-facing corner
chockstone

chimney
ledge

rock
scar

left-facing corner
left-facing corner
pendulum or
tension traverse

false belay
right-facing corner
groove roof

straight in
corner or
groove
blocks or boulders
base
of wall
roof
line of approach

Introduction | 5
 AID CLIMBING RATINGS EXPLAINED
The rating of any aid pitch is highly subjective and can fluctuate depending on factors including
your aid climbing skill/experience, free climbing ability, height, and the equipment you have.
The current condition of the climb influences the difficulty as well. The cleanliness of the cracks
and the condition of fixed gear such as bolts, pitons, and copperheads, can make a pitch easier
or more difficult than the suggested rating. Above all, never assume that a rating on a topo
supersedes what you are experiencing on a pitch. Trust your own judgment and experience.

Climbing Grades
The grade of a climb refers to its overall seriousness and is influenced by the route’s length,
difficulty, and continuity. All of the climbs included in this book are grade IV-VI.

Grade IV: A full-day climb that takes a competent team a full day to complete. Grade fours make
you start hiking with headlamps, and often have you walking down in the dark too.

Grade V: A shorter bigwall on which a team will typically take 1-2 nights on the wall.

Grade VI: A wall requiring 2-7 nights for all but the fastest teams. Most bigwall routes in
Yosemite are Grade VI.

Grade VII: Extreme bigwalls that require more than 7 nights on the wall and are also associated
with remote locations, poor weather, etc.

Aid Abbreviations
“A”: Indicates a pitch that requires you to use a hammer to place gear, such as pitons and
copperheads.

“C”: Short for ‘clean aid’ and indicates aid climbing accomplished without a hammer. Cams,
hooks, and nuts are all clean climbing equipment as are hand-placed pitons. This is a relatively
new addition to the rating system, and many climbs in this guide were established before its
introduction and have not been climbed since. Thus, many pitches on these climbs may go
clean despite having an “A” rating.

“F”: This rating refers to a pitch that relies on fixed gear to go hammerless. Such pitches
typically have a few fixed copperheads or pitons which, if missing, will require replacement with
a hammer in order to be climbed at that rating.

“R” : An aid pitch receives an “R” rating if it is particularly dangerous because of loose or
sharp rocks, the possibility of impacting a ledge in a fall, or any other hazard unrelated to the
difficulty of the climbing.

Aid Ratings
A0 or “French Free”: Refers to bolt ladders or short sections of aid where pieces (often bolts)
are pulled on for upward progress. This can also indicate a tension traverse or a rappel (El
Niño on El Cap was originally freed using one short rappel, so was rated 5.13 A0. In 2018, Alex
Honnold and Sonny Trotter established a completely free variation to this route. So now it is
rated 5.13).

6 | Introduction
Beginner Aid (A1, C1-C2): Placements are straightforward, mostly secure, and predominantly
require standard trad climbing gear. A few pieces of aid climbing gear such as hooks,
camhooks, or even a couple pitons (which are often fixed on beginner routes) may be
necessary. These routes are approachable with basic trad climbing skills, enough time, and
proper equipment. Examples: South Face of Washington Column, Regular Northwest Face of Half
Dome, The Nose

Intermediate Aid (A2-A3, C2-C3): Placements can be awkward or difficult, but there is no long
fall potential. A moderate amount of specialized aid gear is required. These routes often have
short sections of hooking, nailing, or copperheading. Any tricky aid sections are short and
close to secure placements. Examples: The Prow, Zodiac, West Face of Leaning Tower

Advanced Aid (A3+-A4, C3-C4): Climbing is consistently more tricky and dangerous. These
routes require you to camhook liberally, nail multiple pitons/copperheads, or hook several
times on any given pitch. Many popular routes of this difficulty have large stretches of fixed
gear (ex. copperheads) that are relatively quick to climb but will not hold falls and are difficult
to replace. Examples: Most El Cap and Half Dome routes.

Expert Aid (A4-A5, C4-C5): These routes require continuously tricky, delicate, and dangerous
climbing and have very long fall potential. They require skills that are only developed through
experience and often push the limits of what is possible with contemporary climbing
technology. Expert routes require advanced knowledge and extreme mental fortitude.

North America Wall. Photo: James Q. Martin

Introduction | 7
CONTENTS
28 The Classics
48 Ribbon Fall
58 El Capitan
134 Freerider Guide
148 Nose Guide
274 Camp 4 Wall
278 Yosemite Falls Wall
292 Arches Wall
300 Washington Column
332 Mt. Watkins
342 Quarter Domes
346 Half Dome Northwest Face
368 Half Dome South Face
374 Porcelain Wall
382 Liberty Cap & Mt. Broderick
396 Jericho Wall
398 Glacier Point Area
406 Lost Brother
411 Higher Cathedral Spire
414 Middle Cathedral
422 Wall of Ages
428 Leaning Tower
444 Speed Climbing
450 Slacklining
460 Bigwall History

Artist: Craig Muderlak

 WELCOME TO BIG

Yosemite’s bigwalls are always awe-inspiring, no matter how many times you see them.
And the adventures that you find on these stunning cliffs… are transformational to say
the least. I love Yosemite! Every part of the park is so uniquely perfect. But the bigwalls,
and bigwall climbing, are what made me really love life. This book is my attempt to
share the insights and wisdom gleaned from over 20 years of climbing these walls with
the best of friends.

With Yosemite Bigwalls: The Complete Guide, we catalogued over 500 bigwall routes.
Problem is, most of them suck. Worse, all the maps in the book look the same, so it’s
hard to tell the good from the bad. Well, suck might be too harsh. It’s just that most
routes get dirty, cracks fill with grass if they aren’t climbed regularly. With this book
I weed out the ‘no fun’ routes, and give you tips to make your climbs smooth. I’ve
climbed most of these, but there are a few still on my to do list (I’ve included some
climbs I look forward to doing, so folks can get an idea of what I think are the better,
less traveled, routes on a cliff ). Every route gets a full-page photo overlay with the
climbing, pitch by pitch, drawn in. Now your friends and family can follow along on
your adventures, whether it’s at home or from the meadow.

10
WALL PARADISE

Really, it’s so awesome being in Yosemite, and sharing with a community of like-minded
climbers is the icing on the cake. But understand that this is not like other climbing areas.
There is no town near here (everyone comes here on vacation). So please be ready to take
care of the trails, anchors, and fixed ropes you use. Please do your part to keep this place
looking good!

Please send corrections/suggestions to erik@yosemitebigwall.com. The role the general

climbing public has played in providing helpful feedback and corrections to these books is
invaluable. It takes a village! You’re the best!

I’m grateful to be able to offer this book – and I look forward to seeing you in the Valley!

Erik Sloan, owner

erik@yosemitebigwall.com

Image from the awesome movie “Two

Nineteen Forty Four” by Tristen Greszko 11
 GETTING HERE
There are four entrances to Yosemite (study the map), three from the west and one from the
east. Hwy 120 East over Tioga Pass is closed in winter, and on big snow years can open as late
as July, so double check it’s open if traveling from the east – i.e. Reno, Bishop, etc. If Tioga Pass
is closed it can more than double the length of time it takes to get from, say, Bishop to the
Yosemite Valley.
Of the three west entrances, Hwy 140 via the Arch Rock Entrance Station is the lowest
elevation, so is the best choice if there is bad weather, or if roads are snowy and icy. You’re
required to have tire chains in your vehicle (4x4 with snow tires are usually fine for driving,
but they still want you to have chains just in case) from the first winter storm (usually mid-late
November) until May.
Hotels in many cities around Yosemite
advertise that they are only a few miles
from the park, but that number is just
the distance to the entrance station, YOSEMITE NATIONAL
which in the case of the south and
west entrances, is over an hour from
PARK To Lee Vining
the Valley. Check the list of distances Hetch Hetchy 120
below from Yosemite Valley Tioga Pass
carefully. Hetch Hetchy Entrance
Big Oak Flat Entrance
Airports in order of Entrance Tuolumne
Meadows
distance: Fresno, Oakland, 120
Crane
Sacramento, San Jose, San To Stockton Flat
Francisco, Reno (summer
Y
only), Los Angeles. Arch THE VA LLE Glacier Point
Rock Entrance
For folks living in the Western
140
USA, Fresno is often the best
option, as there are sometimes To Merced
direct flights and it puts you on the
Valley floor a couple hours after you land. Wawona
Eastern USA folks, and International Climbers,
prefer San Francisco for the many (cheaper) South
direct flights and ubiquitous rental car deals. Entrance
41 To Fresno
Public bus to the park is available via YARTS
(www.Yarts.com) but seriously limited from Fresno,
Merced, Sonora, and Mammoth Lakes. From farther away
(Los Angeles and the Bay Area) public transport is available
through Amtrak and Greyhound.
“Valley Shuttle” within Yosemite Valley is free. Limited, fee based, shuttles are available to
other areas within the park. As of 2020, it is difficult to travel within Yosemite National Park,
outside Yosemite Valley, without a car. The bus system is very limited.
Check out www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/publictransportation.htm for more
information.

12 | Introduction
 OREGON
CALIFORNIA

Reno
Lake
80 Tahoe
Sacramento 50
Lee
395 Vining

Stockton Mono Lake

Groveland YNP
San 120 Mammoth Lakes
Francisco Mariposa
140 Oakhurst Bishop
Merced
Santa Cruz 41 95
Fresno
5

Distances to 99 395

Yosemite Valley:
From west (Hwy 140) Bakersfield
El Portal - 15 mi / 24 km (25-30 min)
Mariposa - 44 mi / 70 km (50-70 min)
Merced - 80 mi / 129 km (1-1.75 hrs)

From west (Hwy 120)

Groveland - 48 mi / 77 km (1 hr)
Oakdale - 90 mi / 145 km (2 hrs)
Sonora - 72 mi / 116 km (1.5 hrs)
Modesto - 119 mi / 191 km (2 hrs) Los
Sacramento - 162 mi / 260 km (3.25-3.5 hrs) Angeles
San Francisco - 189 mi / 305 km (4-5 hrs)

From the southwest (Hwy 41):

Wawona - 28 mi / 45 km (45-50 min)
San Diego
Fish Camp - 35 mi / 56 km (1 hr)
Oakhurst - 47 mi / 75 km (1.25-1.5 hrs) MEXICO
Madera - 89 mi / 143 km (2.5 hrs)
Fresno - 94 mi/ 151 km (2.5 hrs)
Los Angeles - 312 mi/ 502 km (5.5-6 hrs)

Map courtesy of Shannon Joslin, yosemitevalleybouldering.com Introduction | 13

 ENTRANCE FEES
Each park entrance collects entrance fees,
and are staffed generally from 8am to
5pm (If you arrive after/before hours you
can enter and then pay when you leave).

For bigwallers, the 7-day pass won’t be

enough time, so probably best to splurge
for the annual pass.

All Parking Is Free throughout Yosemite

National Park (you do not need a parking
permit).

FEES AS OF 2021:

1. 7-day pass

- $35 per vehicle, $30 for motorcycles Note: If you ride the bus into Yosemite,
- $20 per person if walking in, on bicycle, the entrance fee is included in your fare
horse, or non-commercial with 15+ seats (you do not have to purchase a pass).

2. Annual Passes (good 12 months from the

purchase date)

- Yosemite: $70 per person (you only need one

per vehicle)
- America the Beautiful Pass: $80 and is valid for
all national parks and federal fee areas (Joshua
Tree, Red Rocks, etc.).

3. Other Passes

- Military – free for all active military with id

- Senior Lifetime Pass – one time $80 fee good
for life (must be 62 or older)
- Access Pass – free for all permanently disabled
US citizens.

Free Days: Entrance is free on January 20th (Martin Luther King Jr. Day), April 18 (First
day of National Park Week), August 25 (National Park Service birthday), September 26
(National Public Lands Day), and November 11 (Veteran’s Day).

Photo: David Fulmer

14 | Introduction
WEATHER
May through mid-June (Spring) and mid–September until Thanksgiving (Fall) are the best
times to bigwall climb with moderate daytime temps, and long enough days. The crowds tend
to congregate on just a handful of trade routes, so maybe do those during the less busy times.
Once you get a little experience, it
will be pretty easy to arrive in the
Valley with a handful of worthy
objectives, and to choose based
on your partner’s stoke and any
crowds. Truly, there is almost
always perfect weather on some
of the Valley’s bigwall routes
(though days can be painfully
short in the winter). Be realistic
about the weather on the wall
you are signing up for (temps in
spring/summer/fall tend to be
10–15 degrees cooler on the walls
compared to the Valley floor; in
winter temps tend to be 10-15
degrees warmer).

Spring notes: Some long routes,

like Salathé and Mt. Watkins seep
water, so are not as good in early South Face of W. Column.
season. It tends to be windy in the Photo: William Alonso
spring as the temps are warming
up, and the cold air is in the Valley, 14:46
so some sunny walls can be chilly 14:00
(S. Face of the W. Column routes, Daylight (hours)
12:00
and the Nose often get super
9:33
windy in the afternoon). 10:00
9:36
6 6.5in
Summer notes: Half Dome, 9.8cm
Quarter Dome, Porcelain Wall, 3
Northwest Face of Higher 0.1in
Average precipitation 15cm
Cathedral Spire, and Jericho are 0
all blissfully shady.
99°F/37°C
90
Max temperature
Fall notes: It’s perfect!....unless it’s
smoky, and then it might be not 70
so perfect.
57°F/14°C
52°F
50 11°C
Winter notes: Plan for extra days
as it gets dark well before 5pm. Average min temperature
29°F
Otherwise, it can be surprisingly 30 -2°C

warm and sunny up on the walls, Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
while the Valley is shady and cold.

Introduction | 15
 STAYING HERE
Bigwallers often struggle to find the perfect accommodations in or near Yosemite, because
they can be booked / expensive! Complications like travelling a long distance to the Valley,
fixing ropes and/or vying for optimal times for starting your route mean it can be very hard to
figure out which type of accommodations to reserve. Book early! Mid-May to mid-September
you can only reserve Yosemite campgrounds online at www.recreation.gov. When in doubt,
assume your bigwall trip will have some changes to your plans, so book conservatively. An
ideal setup for most bigwall teams is to get a campsite at the Pines Campgrounds (Upper,
Lower, and North Pines comprise 379 sites that each hold two vehicles and six folks – even
RV’s up to 35 feet long and trailers to 24 feet, see below for full details) for their entire stay, and
share it with friends when you are up on the wall. Beware – ‘gateway’ communities that claim
they are right next to Yosemite are often long drives from the Valley proper (1.25 hrs from the
south Hwy 41 gate and 1 hour from the west Hwy 120 gate). Stay in the Valley or suffer!

Unregulated camping, such as sleeping in your vehicle or in the boulders or forest is illegal.
Fines range from $175 - $275 per person, and can be doubled if you have food with you, which
is by definition improperly stored.

Campgrounds: Reserve campsites in Yosemite at www.recreation.gov. During the peak

season, plan on making your reservations five months in advance! There is a 30-night camping
limit per year, but only 14 consecutive nights can be booked in the park between May 1 and
September 15 – and only 7 of those nights can be in Yosemite Valley or Wawona. Epic!

Camp 4: No place like home for a Valley climber, Camp 4 is high on camaraderie, nearby
climbing and bouldering, and loud campers (if you want to celebrate remember 10pm quiet
hours, and $275 tickets for smoking
weed). $6/night per person gets you
a small patch of dirt in one of the 36
sites, with five other campers. Each site
has bear boxes and a fire pit. The old
bathroom by Columbia Boulder is gross,
but a new one has been constructed
on the east end of the camp. The new
bathroom facility comes with a Yosemite
campground first: coin operated showers!

From mid-February to mid-May, and

from mid-September to mid-November,
Camp 4 operates as a first-come first-
serve campground. The ranger arrives Camp 4
at 8:30am to check people in, and Photo: Tom Evans
beforehand a sign on the kiosk will
indicate the number of available spots.
So count the number of people in line in front of to figure out if you will get in or not. Each
camper must line up at the kiosk and present a photo ID to get a campsite – there are no
exceptions to this rule, and no reserving for your friends.

Mid-November to mid-February Camp 4 operates on a self-registration basis. Camp is usually

empty during this time, so don’t worry about being able to get a site.

16 | Introduction
 Lower Pines Housekeeping
Campground Camp

Pines Campgrounds (Lower, Upper and North Pines): The three Pines campgrounds, located
right below Half Dome at the east end of the Valley, offer a lot to climbers – the option to sleep
in your car, the ability to bring your pet, and the ability to share your site, all for $26/night. No
showers/laundry there, but decent bathrooms and the water is great. For laundry and showers,
go to Housekeeping Camp or Curry Village. Reserve sites at www.recreation.gov.

Other Yosemite Campgrounds: Bridalveil Creek Campground (sick spot by Glacier Point) and
Wawona Campground (food options at the nearby Wawona Hotel) are to the south of the Valley
off Hwy 41. Hodgdon Meadow, Crane Flat, Tamarack Flat (sweet vibe!), White Wolf, and Yosemite
Creek campgrounds (Summer only but super nice) are to the north of the Valley off Hwy 120.

Yosemite Valley Lodging: Book all YV Lodging at www.Travelyosemite.gov. The basics are
tent cabins at Curry Village (start at $70, noisy/rustic) and camping suites at Housekeeping
Camp (start at $100, so good with insane beach/view but definitely loud), standard size
motel rooms at Yosemite Lodge ($300, deluxe spot right next to Yosemite Falls), and the fancy
Ahwahnee Hotel (starts at $500 for a small room, $1200 for a suite).

Within Yosemite National Park: Foresta and Yosemite West are two small communities that are
located within the park. Many small and large homes are rented on airbnb and other websites
(starting at $300). Foresta, a little closer, is a knockout location. Yosemite West is better if you’re
coming from the south (Fresno, Los Angeles).

Outside Yosemite National Park: There are tons of places to stay outside the park, though all
are at least an hour drive (Yosemite View Lodge in El Portal is the exception, just a half hour from
the Valley). Yosemite Bug Hostel and Resort (fall, winter and spring), and Rush Creek (summer)
are a couple of the better, closer options.

Introduction | 17
 AMENITIES
Gas: There is no gas available in Yosemite Valley! Fill up at Oakdale, Mariposa, or Oakhurst
on your way into the park. The closest gas stations are El Portal (15 miles downhill, you can
almost coast there) and Crane Flat (17 miles uphill). Wawona (27 miles) also has gas. All park
gas stations offer pay-at-the-pump 24 hrs a day. There is no longer gas available in Tuolumne
Meadows. Gas in the park averages $1.50 more per gallon compared to towns outside the park.

Climbing Gear: The Mountain Shop at Curry Village has a great selection of bigwall gear. Their
hours change regularly, so call to check if they have what you need and when you can get it:
209-372-8396. You can always email me and ask if you need to borrow/rent some bigwall stuff
last minute: erik@yosemitebigwall.com.

Climbing Guides: Located inside the Yosemite Mountain Shop in Curry Village, Yosemite
Mountaineering School (209-372-8344) offers the only legal guiding service in Yosemite. The
guides are good, experienced professionals!

Internet / Cell Service: As of 2021, internet is spotty in the Valley. Degnans, in Yosemite Village,
and the Curry Village Guest Lounge offer free public wifi, but it’s inconsistent. All the hotel
guests in the Valley get free wifi, but it doesn’t always work.

Cell service is primarily available for Verizon and AT&T subscribers, though now there are
a couple of other carriers that share their towers, like Straight Talk Wireless, T-Mobile, and
Google Phi which work sometimes. Cell service in the Valley is often overloaded and unreliable.
Yosemite Village has the best service. Have a meeting place or backup plan in case someone’s
phone doesn’t work.

Food: Groceries are available at the

Village Store in Yosemite Village, as
well as the Curry Village Gift Shop
and the Yosemite Lodge Gift Shop
(limited selections). Plan on shopping
for your trip at the big grocery
stores you will pass on your way to
Yosemite!

There are a bunch of restaurants in

the Valley, but not a bunch of good
food (mostly resort / burgers-and-
fries type fare). In Yosemite Valley,
Degnan’s Deli has decent sandwiches
and in the summer months the
upstairs is a pizza loft. Curry Village Mtn Room Restaurant at Yosemite Valley Lodge
has the pizza deck, bar, and food
court, but the quality is hit or miss. Yosemite Lodge has a number of restaurant options. The
Basecamp is a food-court-style eatery (formally the ‘caf’). The Lounge (formally the Mountain
Room Bar) has basic food along with a full selection of drinks, and vintage Yosemite Climbing
photos courtesy of the Yosemite Climbing Association. The Mountain Room Restaurant offers
perhaps the best upscale dining in the park, and is less expensive than The Ahwahnee Hotel –
The Ahwahnee has both a bar and spectacular dining room.

18 | Introduction
Marijuana is not sold and is not legal in
national parks (federal land). Fines for
smoking pot are $175-$275 per person.
All of the cities outside the park, except
Fresno, have cannabis dispensaries.
Bikes: Definitely bring your bike to the
Valley! Cruising around the Valley is the
best way to orient yourself to the lay of
the land. Traffic jams are real during the
summer months! Bikes aren’t allowed
off the pavement here. Bike rentals are
available at Curry Village and Yosemite
Lodge for $36/day, but you can’t keep
the rental bikes for multiple days (bike
rental hours are usually 9–5 ish)
Important Phone Numbers
Emergency? Fire? Accident?
Call 911. The Park dispatch will answer and direct
your call to the appropriate department for help.
Don’t be afraid to ask for help!
Pizza Deck or Mountain Shop Open?
209-372-1001(24hrs) Aramark Dispatch
Weather/Road Conditions
209-372-0200 (24hrs - recorded message)
Live webcams (good weather resource):
www.YosemiteConservancy.org/webcams
Campground Reservations Message (how
many spaces are left at campgrounds?)
209-372-0266

Medical Clinic (209-372-4637): The Campground Reservations

small clinic in Yosemite Village (on the
road that leads to the Ahwahnee) can
splint or brace minor injuries. All serious
injuries are referred to the bigger
hospitals in Merced (1.5 hrs) and Fresno
(2.25 hrs). If you experience a serious
accident, call 911, and an ambulance
will take you to the hospital.
877-444-6777 and www.recreation.gov
Wilderness Permit Reservations
209-372-0740 and
www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/wpres.htm
Lodging Reservations
801-559-4884 and www.TravelYosemite.com

Rescue Services: Yosemite Search and Rescue (YOSAR) are up to the task of any Yosemite
emergency. They can lift you off the side of Half Dome in a couple hours, but if you were not
prepared you could be billed for the rescue ($$$). Call 911 to report emergencies!

Showers: Showers are available year-round

at Curry Village, as well as seasonally at
Housekeeping Camp. The Yosemite Bug
Hostel and Resort, forty minutes from the
Valley, is popular with climbers on rest days
– it has a spa, and the food is great too!

Laundry: In season (mid-May to mid-

September) laundry facilities are available at
Housekeeping Camp.

Shuttle Bus: A free shuttle bus service

drives around the Valley, making numerous
stops, and operates from 7am to 10pm. The
shuttles, though super cool for sightseeing,
are not that convenient for bigwall climbers
as they all make a one-hour, one-way loop,
and don’t access certain areas (like Leaning
Tower and Ribbon Fall). Yosemite Valley Lodge

Introduction | 19
 BEAR INFO
Yosemite’s black bears, which typically have brown,
blonde, or reddish-brown coats, are surely more
famous and sought after than climbers. Traffic grinds
to a halt when one ambles by, hungrily seeking the
berries, grasses and dead animals that constitute
its diet (black bears are not aggressive and are not
predators – they only eat dead things or plants). The
greater Yosemite area is home to a healthy population
of about 400 bears, and as many as 30 can be in the
Valley at any one time. They’re so cool!

Sadly, after bears get accustomed to high-calorie

human food, they often have to be killed. Anyone
living on grass and berries would switch to pursuing
human food after trying pizza for the first time. For
Yosemite’s bears, once they get human food three
times, they are killed.

Bigwallers regularly contribute to bad bear behavior

in Yosemite, forgetting food in their packs at the base
while fixing ropes, or failing to properly store food
while on the wall. Do not leave any food in haulbags
or packs at the base of your climb, ever! Bring your
food to the base on your final carry. Bear-proof
lockers, called ‘bear boxes,’ are provided at all parking
areas. Please be diligent to remove all food, trash, and
scented items from your car. (When I was younger I A bear seen 1000’ up
was more lax about this, and had several bear break- on Royal Arches, 5.7!
ins – those bears are dead now so please take this
seriously!)

If sleeping at the base of the wall, make sure your

food is 50 feet (15m) up 5.10 or harder terrain – these
bears can climb! Ringtail cats, large squirrels and
other vermin thrive at the base of the walls – so make
sure your food is also in a sturdy container. And if
you see trash or food left out by clueless folks, do the
bears a favor and throw it out!

A bear has never attacked a human in Yosemite, but

we kill more than a dozen bears each year with our
cars. Slow down – bears often dart across the road
during lowlight hours.

Until the 1970s the National Park Service maintained

feeding areas for the bears, giving them trash while
tourists took pictures. We are now in the process of
reversing generations of bad behavior. It takes time,
but we’ll get there! Please keep bear boxes
clean and organized!

20 | Introduction
ENVIRONMENTAL CONCERNS
Unsafe Bolts and Rappel Equipment: Yosemite’s bigwalls are
littered with old, often recalled, anchor hardware. If you veer
off the trade-route path, it is important to educate yourself
about old bolts, and to be vigilant about backing up any
anchors that have become unsafe. Please chip in to fix this!
Loaner bolt kits, with free bolts, are available through the
ASCA (safeclimbing.org). The Bolting Bible on slackline.com is
another great resource.

Trails and Fixed Ropes: The developed trails to Yosemite’s

walls take constant care to maintain. Please stay on the trail
and remove any branches or rocks that might have fallen or
rolled onto them. It takes a village!

The fixed ropes on the East Ledges Descent off El Cap, to the
Heart Ledge, and to the base of Half Dome need to be replaced
each season. Please chip in if you use these lines, and email me
if you have a rope to donate – erik@yosemitebigwall.com

Smoke: California has experienced devastating droughts in the

last decade, which led to an estimated 100+ million trees dying
statewide. Lately, that has meant long and difficult fire seasons,
often with at least two weeks of disruptively smoky weather,
often during the fall climbing season. The 2020 fires brought
the worst conditions, with easily a month of very hazardous air
conditions here, including park closures.

Litter: Trash blows away from tourists on the top of Half Dome
all day long, often making its way to the base of the wall. With
over four million visitors each year, Yosemite needs your help
to keep looking good. Plan on packing out your trash as well as
any other trash you find. Thank You!

NPS and Climbers: The National Park Service (NPS) staff Photo: Antti T. Nissinen
in Yosemite has done an amazing job at establishing the
premier Search and Rescue team in the country and seeking
out partnerships with climbing organizations. There is still so much work to do! Climbers have
criticized the rangers for harassment and excessive force (document it if it happens!). Meanwhile,
there is no local organization in charge of replacing bolts and rappel anchors, and deciding
what safety guidelines should be followed in doing so. Even the basic information about climbs
here can be difficult to find. Finally, there is no reason we can’t also have a climbing museum in
Yosemite Valley, complete with a interactive climbing exhibit where the general public can learn
about, and experience, some of the vertical awesomeness we get to enjoy (we surely don’t want
five million folks walking over to Swan Slab while we’re trying to climb).

Arguably, we bigwallers love Yosemite as much as anyone. So let’s all become a part of our
vibrant future by dedicating some of our time here to keeping Yosemite amazing. There are
plenty of ideas in the paragraphs above. It takes a village!

Introduction | 21
 Thank You, Thank You, Thank You’s!
A million thanks to my talented photography, graphics and artist friends. The art and photography
you see in my books was almost entirely donated by these incredibly generous climbers! ... If you
need inspiration for your house or office, support these heroes!

Jimmy Chin Ryan Sheridan

Corey Rich Mickey Sensenbach
Ted Distel - @digitalstokephoto Michael Bolte
Peter Mortimer – Senderfilms.com Andy Bardon
Mikey Schaefer – Mikeylikesrocks.com Dave N. Campbell
Ben Ditto – BenDittoPhoto.com Tristan Greszko
John Dickey – Dickeyphoto.com Marek Jakubowski
Shawn Reeder – ShawnReeder.com Neil Chelton
Chris Noble – noblefoto.com Rachel McCullough
Jeff Johnson – JeffJohnsonphoto.com Tom Lambert
Cedar Wright – #cedarwright cedarwright.com Lance Colley
Renan Ozturk – Camp4Collective.com Stan Hampton
Dana Felthauser – Danafelthauser.com Roger Putnam
Tom Slater – Slatervision.com Schuyler Collett
Keith Sauer – Sauerdough.wordpress.com Stick Figure
Glen Denny – Glendenny.com Werner Braun
Cheyne Lempe – Cheynelempe.com Alex Honnold
Taylor Sincich – @twsincich King Cobra
Steph Abegg - Stephabegg.com Karl Baba
Josh Helling – @helling_josh Ryan Kirtland
Drew Smith – Drewsmithmedia.com Dan McDevitt
RJ Franklin – Rjfranklin.com Mountain Project
Lucas Barth – Lucasbarth.com Kevin Deweese
Samuel Crossley – Samuelcrossley.media Brandon Adams
Craig Muderlak – Muderlakart.com Mark Westerberg
Eric Hanson – Blueplanetvr.com “Pass the Pitons” Pete Zabroc
Greg Downing – Hyperacuity.com Tom Evans
Andrew Burr - @andrew_burr Cazadores
Gabriel Mann Will Alonso
Andy Kirkpatrick Odesza
Mash Alexander Darren Radford, Rusty, 2 Bud Joe,
Elliott Bernhagen and the crew from the Mtn. Rm Bar!
Bryan Gohn The Coronavirus

22 Photo: Lukas Barth

 Fern Spring Water
The best water in Yosemite
Always open!
Always cold!

Photo: Karl “Baba” Bralich 23

 BIGWALL STEWARDSHIP
Yosemite’s bigwalls were designated as Federal Wilderness in 1984 as part of the California
Wilderness Act. The Wilderness Act mandates the National Park Service (NPS) to protect
wilderness character— distinguished by pristine undeveloped nature, and unrestricted
freedom and adventure (woo-hoo!). To keep Yosemite’s walls as wild as possible, the NPS has
established climbing management rules. Please adhere to the following regulations, and do
your part to leave Yosemite’s walls better than you found them. Remove old webbing and tat
and replace with quicklinks where appropriate, replace aging bolts which you can get for free
from www.safeclimbing.org, and always stick to trails to cover shortcuts and added trails.

Remember – climbing is not a guaranteed activity in Yosemite; it is incumbent on us, the

climbing community, to show that we can celebrate and care for these routes. Please do
your part!

Wilderness Permits and Camping on Bigwalls

As of 2021, Wilderness Permits are required for overnight bigwall routes. Read about the new
permit system at climbingyosemite.com. Camping at the base of any wall in Yosemite Valley
is prohibited. That being said, bivying one night before you start climbing has become more
accepted in recent years, but of course all food must be stored in bear boxes, or 50 feet up the
wall. Camping at the base of Half Dome and other backcountry walls is only allowed with a
valid Wilderness Permit (technically, camping on the summit of Half Dome is not permitted,
but on the wall is ok). NEW: Camping one night on the summit after your climb is allowed
without a permit, although If you are camping on the summit without a bear canister, your
food must be hung over the edge.

Wilderness Permits are free and are available at the Wilderness Center, or Visitor Center, in
Yosemite Village. Best part is a wilderness permit allows you to camp in the Backpacker’s
Campground in the Valley for one night before your climb, and one night after your climb, for
$6/night (Backpacker’s Campground is awesome and is right next to Washington Column).

As with all camping in Yosemite, Leave No Trace (LNT) principles and regulations apply. All
food must be stored in bear canisters and all trash carried out – your toilet paper too! Camp
and dispose of human waste at least 100 feet from water or trails, and bury human waste 6-8
inches underground.

For details about permits stop by the Wilderness Center, visit www.nps.gov/yose/
planyourvisit/wildpermits.htm or call (209) 372-0740.

Fires
Fires are prohibited on the summit of El Cap and Half Dome, where high use has made it hard
for the soil to prosper. Elsewhere, if you camp on a summit you should only build a fire using
dead and downed wood, and only use established fire rings.

Human Waste
Packing out and properly disposing of your human waste is required of every Yosemite bigwall
climber. Prefabricated human waste disposal bags like Wagbag or RESTOP are convenient,
clean, and easy to use. Paper bags, or one gallon Ziploc bags, work if the nicer options are not
available. Toss them in a cheap, 3 gallon paint bucket that you have slung up with webbing.

24 | Introduction
Carry your container down and discard your waste in the bear-resistant dumpsters such as
those at the bottom of the East Ledges descent of El Capitan. If you are using paper bags they
should be disposed of in pit toilets, which you can find right next to the dumpsters at bottom
of El Cap descent. Please do not drop plastic bags into pit toilets because they clog the pumps
used to empty the toilets.

Food Storage
Bears, raccoons, ravens and squirrels deliberately seek food at the bases of bigwalls because
they have successfully broken into climber caches in the past. Do not leave any food, drinks -
even Gatorade-style sports drinks, toiletries or trash at the base of the wall. The best practice
to keep the bears away from climber’s stuff is to hike water, ropes, and hardware up and/or
fix pitches, and then hike up your food up last, only when you plan to start up the wall. If you
have to store food and scented items at the base, store them in bear-resistant canisters and
hang them at least 50 feet off the ground on 5.10 or harder climbing. If you can reach your
food without climbing gear (even free-soloing), it is not stored correctly. Bear-proof lockers
are available at El Capitan Bridge, El Capitan Picnic Area (Ranger Rock) the Zodiac parking
area (Devil’s Elbow), the Ahwahnee Hotel, Bridalveil Falls parking, Curry Village Parking (Apple
Orchard), and many other places.

Remember to also remove all food, scented items, and even empty wrappers from your car. If
you leave these items in your car a bear may break into it, and/or your car may be impounded -
this happens to a few climbers every year!

Peregrine Falcon Closures

In 1978 during the FA of Sea of Dreams on El Cap, Jim Bridwell, Dave Diegelman, and Dale Bard
discovered a nesting pair of Peregrine Falcons - the first confirmed nest in the Park in 36 years.
Climbers have helped wildlife biologists consistently since then to ensure the species survives.

To help the falcons thrive, the NPS closes areas to climbing during the nesting season, typically
March 1st through July 15th. The NPS will open areas earlier if no nesting activity is observed.
In 2019, 12 nesting pairs were monitored forcing 7 climbing closure areas in Yosemite, and they
fledged 24 young.

Visit http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingclosures.htm to find out about

current closures.

Abandoned or Unattended Property

Leaving property on Yosemite’s bigwalls unattended for longer than 24 hours is not permitted
and your gear may be impounded. If it’s impractical to return within 24 hours, label and date
equipment, ropes, and water bottles with your contact information. Leaving stashes of gear
on the summit of El Cap has become popular with bigwall free climbers, but is not legal. If
you must stash your stuff, definitely do not leave any trash, scented items, or food – let’s work
together to keep Yosemite looking great.

Fixed Ropes
Fixing ropes on walls is allowed only on a temporary basis (technically, the rope must be
used each day, or at least once in each 24 hour period, to not be considered abandoned). If
you fix ropes, only do so immediately before beginning your ascent, and remove them once
committed to the route. The “established” fixed ropes below Heart Ledges, East Ledges, and
the Slabs approach to Half Dome are not maintained or condoned by the NPS (essentially they

Introduction | 25
 look the other way because these ropes are used so frequently by climbers and SAR members),
and should always be inspected carefully. Always be prepared to climb or descend without the
fixed ropes!

The recent popularity of bigwall free climbing, which often involves rapping down to ‘work’
pitches, has occasionally had a negative effect on other climbers who were trying to ascend a
route the traditional, ground-up, way. Definitely try to move any fixed lines out of the way of
other parties, and be gracious and helpful as much as possible. We are all here to celebrate the
mountains!....and you never know when that other person could lend a crucial helping hand,
like if your rope gets stuck or your headlamp dies.

Base Jumping
Base jumping, unfortunately, is not legal in Yosemite. The fine is around $300 your first time,
but can be several thousand dollars, and you can get banned from the park for repeat offenses.

Tossing Haulbags from Bigwalls

Never toss your haul bags off of a wall! This practice is dangerous, can result in more trash
at the base of climbs, and has caused false alarms of fatal falls more than once. A slight
convenience for you could be traumatic for people below. It is also so easy to hire porters to
carry your bags down now, so there is no excuse for throwing haul bags.

Clean Climbing
On the wall, avoid nailing when it is safe to do so, and refrain from gardening (intentional
gardening, or the removal of dirt, plants, or rocks is illegal). Fabricating holds or changing the
natural climbing environment is unacceptable, and you will be ticketed.

Bolting and New Routes

Only hand-drilled protection or anchor bolts are permitted in Yosemite. Motorized power
drills are prohibited. The new route and bolting policies in Yosemite are very liberal, especially
considering that most routes are in designated Wilderness. That said, new routes can have
many impacts on the surrounding environment including permanent bolts, vegetation loss,
erosion of soils, and disturbing animal habitat. There are hundreds of established wall routes in
Yosemite - is your first ascent really worth the impact?

Dogs
Dogs are allowed in Yosemite. They must be on a leash and cannot be more than fifty feet from
pavement – pets are not allowed on any of the trails. Each year more and more folks bring their
pets to the park, and the wildlife here suffers. This is a wild place – please don’t bring your dog!

Take Care of the Places You Love

Most bigwall climbers follow all park regulations while having incredible experiences climbing
here. Unquestionably, the best way to continue maintaining climber freedoms (and limiting
regulations) is for each of us to help the park by educating our friends, helping to maintain the
trails and fixed anchors, picking up trash, and volunteering in community functions like the
Yosemite Facelift (www.yosemiteclimbing.org). Look forward to seeing all you future Yosemite
stewards out there giving back!

Regulations may change and you are expected to be up to date. For the latest information
check www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbing, the Camp 4 kiosk, or any of the Wilderness
Centers in the park.

26 | Introduction
ver ticallstore.co m
AND TRAD GEAR
OF BIG WALL, AID
HUGE SELECTION
“Pass the Pitons” Pete Zabrok on Atlantic Ocean Wall. Photo by Neil Chelton, courtesy PZ.
 THE CLASSICS
Beginner/Shorter
Routes (easier to harder) Formation Page # Grade Free Rating Aid Rating
South Face Washington Column 308 V 5.12c V10 5.8 C1
Skull Queen Washington Column 310 V 5.8 C2F

West Face / Westie Face Leaning Tower 434 V 5.13a A0 5.7 A2 or C3

Gold Wall Ribbon Fall 50 V 5.13a R 5.9 C2

Southwest Face Liberty Cap/Mt. Broderick 392 V 5.8 C2
Lost Arrow Direct Yose Falls Wall 290 VI 5.8 C2+

Beginner/Longer
Lurking Fear El Cap Southwest Face 74 VI 5.13c 5.6 C2+

Regular NW Face Half Dome 350 VI 5.12 5.9 C2

West Face El Cap West Face 72 V 5.11c 5.10 C1+

The Nose The Nose 148 VI 5.14a 5.8 C2

Triple Direct El Cap Southwest Face 144 VI 5.14a 5.9 C2
South Face Mt. Watkins 334 VI 5.13b 5.8 C2+F
Salathé El Cap Southwest Face 128 VI 5.13b/c 5.9 C2

Intermediate/Shorter
Southern Man Washington Column 306 V 5.8 A1 or C2+F
The Prow Washington Column 316 V 5.6 A2 or C3

Wet Denim Daydream Leaning Tower 432 V 5.13d A0 5.7 A3+

Laughing At The Void Ribbon Fall 52 VI 5.7 A2+

Ten Days After Washington Column 318 V 5.7 A2+
Mideast Crisis/HJ Washington Column 328 VI 5.7 A2 or C3
Bulging Puke Arches Wall 298 V 5.8 A3
Good Ol' Boy Camp 4 Wall 276 VI 5.8 A2+
NW Face Higher Cathedral Spire 412 VI 5.13 5.8 A3+
Pegasus Quarter Dome 344 V 5.12 5.7 A2

Direct NW Face Porcelain Wall 376 VI 5.7 A3

Scarface Liberty Cap/Mt. Broderick 388 V 5.12 5.9 A2 or C3

Dante's Inferno Yosemite Falls Wall 288 VI 5.9 A3

28 Photo: Austin Siadak

Pitches Sun Exposure Approach Descent Notes
11 Sunny .75 - 1 hr 3-4 hrs Best Beginner Route Ever!
11 Sunny .75 - 1 hr 3-4 hrs More South Face Gold!
Mid-afternoon to
8 1 hr 2-3 hrs Steep! Dry (ish) In A Storm.
sunset
11 Sunny 1.5 hrs 2 - 3 hrs Hot, Right Next To The Creek Goodness!
10 Sunny 1.5 - 2.5 hrs 3-4 hrs Bright, By The Trail Goodness!
15 Sunny 3 hrs 4 hrs Tyrolean To The Rim For The Descent!

Late morning to
19 1-1.5 hrs 4-6 hrs Kinda Burly Approach…Epic Splitters!
early evening
23 Afternoon to sunset 2.5 - 4 hrs 4-6 hrs Epic Topout @ 8800 Feet!
Afternoon to early
17 1.5-2.5 hrs 3-4 hrs Mandatory 5.10 free! Wowza!
evening
28 Sunny 15-20 min 2.5-4 hrs The Best of the Best!
30 Sunny 15-20 min 2.5-4 hrs Best Bivy Ledges Route!
19 Sunny 3.5-5 hrs 4-5 hrs Alpine Bliss! Hot, but often wet in spring!
33 Sunny 15-20 min 2.5-4 hrs The Best of the Beasts!

10 Sunny .75 - 1 hr 3-4 hrs Funky But Cool!

11 'Til early afternoon .75 - 1 hr 3-4 hrs Epically Good!
Mid-afternoon to
7 1 hr 2-3 hrs Short and Sweet/Steep!
sunset
11 Sunny 1.5 hrs 2 - 3 hrs Thin Crack Odyssey!
12 'Til early afternoon .75 - 1 hr 3-4 hrs Rowdy Big Brother To The Prow!
13 'Til early afternoon .75 - 1 hr 3-4 hrs Who Likes Steep Splitters?
12 Sunny .75 - 1 hr 3-4 hrs Off The Beaten Track Fun!
13 'Til early afternoon .75-1 hr 4 hrs Splitter, if Grassy ish.
10 1 hr of Sun! 1.5 - 2 hrs 3-4 hrs Epic Shady Goodness!
14 1 hr of Sun! 4-6 hrs 4-6 hrs Alpine Shady Perfection!
Mid-afternoon to Alpine, Leaning-Tower-Style Bolts and
13 2-3 hrs 4-6 hrs
sunset Cracks.
13 Sunny 1.5 - 2.5 hrs 3-4 hrs Off-The-Beaten Track Gold!
12 Sunny 3 hrs 4 hrs Alpine Mellow-ness.

29
 THE CLASSICS
Routes (easier to harder) Formation Page # Grade Free Rating Aid Rating
Misty Wall Yosemite Falls Wall 282 VI 5.9 A3
Zodiac El Cap Southeast Face 250 VI 5.7 A3 or C3+
Eagles Way El Cap Southeast Face 266 VI 5.8 A3

Intermediate/Longer
Grape Race The Nose 146 VI 5.9 A2+

Tangerine Trip El Cap Southeast Face 236 VI 5.7 A3

Virginia El Cap Southeast Face 238 VI 5.7 A3

Squeeze Play/ Lost World El Cap Southwest Face 78 VI 5.7 A3

West Buttress El Cap Southwest Face 80 VI 5.13c 5.9 A3

The Shield El Cap Southwest Face 120 VI 5.6 C4 or A3

The Muir Wall El Cap Southwest Face 122 VI 5.8 A2+ or C4

Tis-sa-ack Half Dome 358 VI 5.8 A2+

Mescalito El Cap Southeast Face 204 VI 5.7 C3F or A2

Dihedral Wall El Cap Southwest Face 94 VI 5.14a 5.8 A2

North America Wall El Cap Southeast Face 218 VI 5.8 A3 or C4

New Dawn El Cap Southeast Face 196 VI 5.7 A2+
South Face Half Dome 370 VI 5.8 A3

Excalibur El Cap Southwest Face 100 VI 5.9 A3

Never Never Land El Cap Southwest Face 86 VI 5.7 A3

Octopussy El Cap Southwest Face 84 VI 5.9 A3

Horse Chute El Cap Southwest Face 88 VI 5.8 A3

Son of Heart El Cap Southwest Face 106 VI 5.7 A3+

30
Pitches Sun Exposure Approach Descent Notes
15 Sunny 3 hrs 4 hrs Most Epic Moderate Aid Location Climb!
15 9-5 (ish) .75-1 hr 2.5-3 hrs All Time Classic!
19 9-5 (ish) .75-1 hr 2.5-3 hrs So Good!

27 Sunny 15-20 min 2.5-3 hrs Less Natural Nose Climb.

2nd Only To The Zodiac For Best Iffy Weath-
17 9-5 (ish) .75-1 hr 2.5-3 hrs
er Route!
17 9-5 (ish) .75-1 hr 2.5-3 hrs Fun T. Trip Variation
Late morning to
20 1-1.5 hrs 4-6 hrs A Little Spice In A Great Location.
early evening
Late morning to
20 1-1.5 hrs 4-6 hrs Epic Wide (aid) In There!
early evening
Late morning to
29 15-20 min 2.5-3 hrs All Time Epic Splitter!
early evening
Late morning to
30 20-25 min 2.5-3 hrs Splitters For Dayz!
early evening
21 Afternoon to sunset 2.5 - 4 hrs 4-6 hrs The Zebra So Good!
26 'Til early afternoon 25-30 min 2.5-4 hrs Dawn Wall For The Rest Of Us!
Late morning to
25 45 min 4-6 hrs Classic Location Climbing.
early evening
27 9-5 (ish) 35-45 min 2.5-3 hrs A Good Bump Up From Mescalito.
25 'Til early afternoon 25-30 min 2.5-4 hrs So So Good, After Mescalito.
17 Afternoon to sunset 3-4 hrs 4-6 hrs Sunny Alpine Bliss!
Mid-morning to
28 30-45 min 3-5 hrs Burly Wide!
early evening
Late morning to
20 1 hr 4-6 hrs Best 'Left Of The Shield' Moderate!
early evening
Late morning to
19 1 hr 4-6 hrs Direct Route For Never Never Land.
early evening
Late morning to
22 45 min 4-6 hrs Short Splitter Headwall Is All Time!
early evening
Mid-morning to
28 15-20 min 2.5-4 hrs Magical Location Climb - 1971!
early evening

Photo: Corey Rich 31

 THE CLASSICS
Advanced/Shorter
Routes (easier to harder) Formation Page # Grade
Afroman Washington Column 324 VI
Re-Animator Washington Column 312 VI
Reason Beyond Insanity Ribbon Fall 54 VI
Jesus Built My Hotrod Leaning Tower 431 VI
Electric Ladyland Washington Column 322 VI
Lunar Eclipse El Cap Southeast Face 256 VI
Roulette Leaning Tower 438 VI
The Shortest Straw El Cap Southeast Face 248 VI
Strange World Porcelain Wall 380 VI
Zenyatta Mondatta El Cap Southeast Face 246 VI
Aurora El Cap Southeast Face 236 VI
Lost in America El Cap Southeast Face 242 VI
Native Son El Cap Southeast Face 232 VI
The Promised Land Half Dome 362 VI

Advanced/Longer
Tribal Rite El Cap Southeast Face 192 VI

Flight of the Albatross El Cap Southwest Face 118 VI

Iron Hawk El Cap Southeast Face 234 VI

Cosmos El Cap Southwest Face 98 VI

Atlantic Ocean El Cap Southeast Face 230 VI

South Seas El Cap Southeast Face 208 VI
Zenith Half Dome 364 VI
Sea of Dreams El Cap Southeast Face 216 VI
Wyoming Sheep Ranch El Cap Southeast Face 222 VI
Girdle Traverse El Cap Southeast Face 270 VI
Reticent Wall El Cap Southeast Face 198 VI
Space El Cap Southeast Face 206 VI
Tempest El Cap Southeast Face 210 VI

32
Free Rating Aid Rating Pitches Sun Exposure Approach Descent
5.6 A3+ 11 'Til early afternoon .75 - 1 hr 3-4 hrs
5.8 A3+ 11 Sunny .75 - 1 hr 3-4 hrs
5.7 A3+ 12 9-5 (ish) 1.5-2 hrs 2 - 3 hrs
5.7 A4 9 Mid-afternoon to sunset 1 hr 2-3 hrs
5.7 A4 12 'Til early afternoon .75 - 1 hr 3-4 hrs
5.7 A4 18 9-5 (ish) .75-1 hr 2.5-3 hrs
5.6 A4+ 8 Mid-afternoon to sunset 1 hr 2-3 hrs
5.7 A4 15 9-5 (ish) .75-1 hr 2.5-3 hrs
5.8 A4 11 Mid-afternoon to sunset 2-3 hrs 4-6 hrs
5.6 A4 16 9-5 (ish) .75-1 hr 2.5-3 hrs
5.7 A4 16 9-5 (ish) .75-1 hr 2.5-3 hrs
5.10 A4 16 9-5 (ish) .75-1 hr 2.5-3 hrs
5.9 A4+ 16 9-5 (ish) .75-1 hr 2.5-3 hrs
5.8 A4 15 Afternoon to sunset 2.5 - 4 hrs 4-6 hrs

5.8 A3+ 23 'Til early afternoon 25-30 min 2.5-4 hrs

Mid-morning to early
5.9 A4 28 25-30 min 2.5-4 hrs
evening
5.9 A4 24 9-5 (ish) .75-1 hr 2.5-3 hrs
Mid-morning to early
5.7 A4 24 30-45 min 4-6 hrs
evening
5.9 A4 24 9-5 (ish) .75-1 hr 2.5-3 hrs
5.8 A4 22 'Til mid-afternoon 30-40 min 2.5-4 hrs
5.8 A4 21 Afternoon to sunset 3-4 hrs 4-6 hrs
5.9 A4+ 26 9-5 (ish) 35-45 min 2.5-3 hrs
5.8 A4 22 9-5 (ish) 35-45 min 2.5-3 hrs
5.10 A4 72 9-5 (ish) 1 hr 4 hrs
5.7 A4+ 21 'Til early afternoon 25-30 min 2.5-4 hrs
5.10 A4 28 'Til early afternoon 30-40 min 2.5-4 hrs
5.8 A4+ 20 'Til mid-afternoon 30-40 min 2.5-4 hrs

Photo: Tom Evans 33

 THE CLASSICS
Expert/Shorter
Routes (unordered) Formation Page # Grade
KAOS El Cap Southeast Face 244 VI
Jet Stream Half Dome 366 VI
When Hell Was In Session Porcelain Wall 378 VI
Surgeon General El Cap Southeast Face 254 VI
Born Under A Bad Sign El Cap Southeast Face 260 VI
Plastic Surgery Disaster El Cap Southeast Face 262 VI
Kali Yuga Half Dome 360 VI

Expert/Longer
Jolly Roger El Cap Southwest Face 110 VI
Continental Drift El Cap Southeast Face 224 VI
Disorderly Conduct El Cap Southeast Face 188 VI
Nightmare On California Street El Cap Southeast Face 220 VI

34
Free Rating Aid Rating Pitches Sun Exposure Approach Descent
5.7 A4+ 13 9-5 (ish) .75-1 hr 2.5-3 hrs
5.9 A4 12 Afternoon to sunset 3-4 hrs 4-6 hrs
5.9 A5 15 Mid-afternoon to sunset 2-3 hrs 4-6 hrs
5.9 A5 13 9-5 (ish) .75-1 hr 2.5-3 hrs
5.9 A4+ 14 9-5 (ish) .75-1 hr 2.5-3 hrs
5.8 A5 13 9-5 (ish) .75-1 hr 2.5-3 hrs
5.10 A4 17 Afternoon to sunset 2.5 - 4 hrs 4-6 hrs

5.11 A5 23 Sunny 15-20 min 2.5-4 hrs

5.10 A4 15 9-5 (ish) .75-1 hr 2.5-3 hrs
5.9 A4+ 22 'Til early afternoon 25-30 min 2.5-4 hrs
5.10 A5 19 9-5 (ish) 35-45 min 2.5-3 hrs

Photo: Chris Guinn

35
 ESSENTIAL YOSEMITE EQUIPMENT
Personal Gear
Bigwall Harness
The trad climbing harness you already have is probably perfect for
bigwall climbing, as long as it has a haul loop on the back and plenty of
gear loops. The commercial “bigwall” harnesses are designed for long
difficult walls, where you are on lead for many hours each pitch. They
are too bulky/heavy for free climbing and the simple, efficient climbing
found on easier/clean walls.

Aiders
Aiders can have both differing step heights and overall lengths, so it
would be best if you can borrow a pair your first couple times to see
what style you like. Ladder style aiders with a plastic spreader bar are
the most popular. If using standard aiders, folks 5’9” and taller should
get aiders with a 14” step height (Yates and Metolius), shorter folks
should get aiders with shorter steps (BD, Petzl).

Adjustable Aiders
Adjustable aiders are suitable only for cleaning pitches, not for leading.
They are more comfortable than regular aiders, but wear out quickly
and don’t work well for cleaning traverses or lowering out. Adjustable
aiders are specialty tools for speed climbers, otherwise not really viable.

Daisy Chains
There are two types of daises: standard and adjustable. Standard spectra daises are more
versatile, lighter, and longer lasting. It is nice to have one adjustable (a third daisy) on steep
routes like the Leaning Tower or Mideast Crisis. All but the shortest folks should buy 140cm/55”,
or the longest daises available.

Ascenders
Also called jumars or jugs, ascenders are sold individually so make sure you
buy a left and a right- handed ascender. Jugs wear out slowly so these are a
good item to borrow from a friend if you can.

Fifi
The Fifi hook lets you move around the belay and stay secure. It allows you
to hook into a piece while aid climbing to rest. Tie the Fifi through your

36 | Introduction
harness at about the length of your belay loop using strong webbing. The
proper length changes depending on whether you are climbing a slab or an
overhanging wall. Generally you want your Fifi to be a length where you can
just hook it in when your waist is at the piece.

Gloves
Buy fingerless gloves at the mountain shop or pick up a cheap pair at the
hardware store and cut the ends off just after your last joint, and wrap the
ends with duct tape. Your hands get worked on the wall, so take care of
them! Nowadays, say if one person is leading several pitches in a row on a
wall, teams will bring one pair of full-fingered, thin ‘mechanic-style’ gloves for
cleaning, and then fingerless ones for the leader (or on free walls sometimes
the leader doesn’t need gloves).

Belay Device
On the wall you usually belay with a GRIGRI or similar auto-lock device, but
each climber in your team should always have an ATC-style belay device
as well - as a back-up and for rappelling. A light, simple one is fine because
you will likely not use it much (maybe only for the fixed lines on the East
Ledges Rappels).

Nut Tool
Get a sturdy nut tool so you can tap on it to remove stuck nuts.
The Metolius tool with built in wrenches is good for Yosemite,
where the bolts are often loose.

Helmet
Helmets are like jeans, they come in all shapes and sizes so pick the one
that fits you best. Make sure it has clips to secure a headlamp.

Knife/Prusiks
Always carry a knife to cut old webbing off anchors or fixed pieces. Always
carry two Prusiks (6’ loops of 6-8mm cord, tied up in a neat knot) as
backup ascenders.

Headlamp
Buy a headlamp with a good beam for spotting anchors in the dark.
Bring a small, simple beam headlamp to use at camp, and as a backup.
If climbing in winter or spring, make sure you have (at least) two
waterproof headlamps.

Sticky Rubber Approach Shoes

These are probably the most important piece of personal gear you
should buy. Approach shoes make your experience of walking to
your climbs, climbing on your climbs, and walking down from your
climbs much more secure and enjoyable. Yosemite is full of talus and
treacherous boulder fields, which are where approach shoes really
shine. Also crucial on the climb, approach shoes will make busting a
short section of 5.5 seem casual compared to wearing regular hiking
boots. While not cheap, you can often find approach shoe closeout
deals online.

Introduction | 37
 Knee Pads
Thin knee pads, worn under your wall pants, are key for the rigors of wall climbing.
Grab a pair at an outdoor store on your way to the Valley – the thin ones used for
volleyball or worn by baseball catchers are perfect.

Free Climbing Shoes

Get comfy/sturdy shoes that you can wear for several hours. You carry more
weight in equipment on the wall, so there is more pressure on your feet. If your
shoes are too tight you will suffer more, climb slower, and have less fun.

Ditty Bag
This rugged chalk-bag-sized bag of goodies stays on your harness for all except
the most difficult free climbing pitches where you don’t want to carry the
extra weight. Bigwall climbing is a slow-paced sport, often involving being a
pitch above your haulbags and partner for long periods of time. The ditty bag
keeps you happy and productive. A Camelback is another option that can be
used in the same way.

Ditty Bag Supplies: 1. (2) copies of topo 2. 1” climber’s tape, for cuts or to put
over nicks in the rope 3. Small amount of duct tape rolled up 4. Energy bars/
gels 5. Sunscreen 6. Sunglasses 7. Camera, use it! 8. Lighter 9. Lip balm, drink
more water! 10. Can opener 11. Watch (optional).

Camera
Wall climbing is tiring, but the moments you capture on the climb will become
priceless mementos of your adventure. Look out for pitches that traverse or make
yourself take a break on lead to catch a particularly good, top-down angle pic.

Wall Clothes
Remember two words: wool or synthetic. These are the only fabrics that are warm
when they’re wet. Storms can happen at any time, and tend to be very cold, so be
prepared. Even underwear should be synthetic. Nylon pants can be rolled up to the knees if
it’s hot. Don’t wear shorts because you could get a rope burn in a lead fall that could become
infected and serious on the wall. Wear wool/synthetic socks. That said, a thin, hooded sunshirt is
also a must – most walls are sunny!

Puffy Jacket
Synthetic jackets are warm when wet and pack a lot of warmth into a small
package. This is key when you’re on the wall, and things get buried in the
haulbags. A puffy in a stuff sack stashed in your smaller bag can make the
difference between comfort and misery when it suddenly turns cold. Most
of the year nighttime temps on the wall are close to freezing or below, so a
good puffy jacket makes getting out of your sleeping bag in the morning
much easier.

Rain Gear
Bring a great rain jacket, preferably a rubberized “fishing” style one.
Yosemite’s deep cracks can become icy waterfalls after as little as a twenty-
minute rainstorm. Kayaker dry-suit tops work great too. Bring rain pants only
if there is a chance of storm, as you will be wearing nylon wall pants already.

38 | Introduction
Shared Personal Gear
GRIGRI
On the wall, where you often have your hand off the brake end of the belay
to retrieve gear, get in the haulbags, or grab a snack, a GRIGRI or equivalent
assisted-braking belay device is essential. Each climber should also bring a
personal belay device in addition to the GRIGRI, for rappelling or as a backup.

Baby Hammer
Yosemite has awesome nut placements, which means nuts get stuck very
easily. Jerking a nut to clean it can bend and damage the wire, so always tap out
nuts that you have weighted with a mini, lightweight hammer and your nut tool.
The $1.99 hammer from the bin in front of the hardware store works perfectly!

Hammer
Once you venture off the easiest walls, you’ll want to bring a full-size hammer
in case a fixed piton or copperhead is missing and you have to replace it.
Hammers last a long time, so this is a great item to borrow.

Funkness Device
This is used with a full-sized hammer to clean pitons, after you have first
loosened them by hitting them up and down. It’s a keeper sling so you don’t
drop stuff. The funkness is hard on gear, but if you get a cam stuck sometimes
a couple tugs with the funkness will free it up. Dedicate two old biners to the
funkiness, and mark them with red tape or nail polish to make sure they don’t
sneak back on the rack.

Gear Sling
Not necessary for your first wall, but once you start carrying 3 sets of cams plus
other gear, a comfy gear sling is key (not shown are the tethers on top you
should add for additional racking).

Belay Seat
Lightweight and easy to stowe, fabric belay seats are great for your first walls.
Once you’re headed up the Zodiac or something similar, bring a plywood
belay seat as the angle steepens and you are hanging more in your harness.

Music
Nothing helps you motivate in the morning like your favorite tunes. Music will help you relax
after dinner, and is a great companion at a long belay.

Hand/Teeth Care
Your hands take a beating on the wall. Bring wet wipes to clean your hands before dinner, and
hand salve to repair any dings and scrapes. Cut down on clutter with one tube of toothpaste
and one pack of floss. These items can all go in the “dinner” stuff sack.

Stuff Sacks
You’ll need a few, different sized stuff sacks for your wall climbs. For
example, break your food into separate bags for breakfast, dinner and
snacks. It can also be nice to have one bag that has both windbreakers,
and maybe one puffy jacket for the belayer.

Introduction | 39
 Water
Two-liter soda bottles are great. I stop at a drug store on my way into Yosemite and pick up
one-gallon water bottles. They don’t pack as well as two-liter bottles, but you know they are
new so they won’t leak (and you don’t need as many of them). Outfit your bottles with clip-in
loops of 3-4mm cord (or shoe laces) girth-hitched around the top. One small strip of duct tape
is nice for keeping the girth-hitch tight.

Camping Gear
Stove/Pot
Hard to beat the hanging Jetboil or MSR all-in-one cooking setup. No matter how tired you are,
make yourself heat up (at least part of ) your dinner and you will feel better, and sleep better.

Poop Tube
For storing and transporting poop, most folks just grab a cheap, 3-gallon painting bucket at the
hardware store (tape webbing around it – don’t rely on the metal handle), or a small dry bag
can work too. Bring a full roll of toilet paper every time, just in case. For pooping, WAG bags or
similar are studier than paper bags and already have detergent in them to mitigate smells.

Portaledge/Fly
If there is any chance of storm, always bring a rainfly. Practice
setting your portaledge up, while hanging, before attempting
to do so on the wall. For Lurking Fear, Half Dome, Liberty Cap,
and Mt. Watkins where you only need a ledge for one night,
definitely go with the G7 POD inflatable ledge. On routes
like the Zodiac and Tangerine Trip where you sleep in your
ledge every night, definitely bring a regular portaledge. John
Middendorf, one of the original pioneer ledge makers, briefly
produced two new fantastic portaledges, the D4 and the
Delta2, in 2020 (I’m in the Delta2 on the front cover). John has
made his designs open-source (Thanks John!) and Durango
Sewing Solutions is currently manufacturing them. If deciding
between older ledges: the Runout Customs 10 lb double is the best standard ledge for most
folks. Two heavier guys should go for the 15 lb Metolius ledge with spreader bar. The BD ledge
is 20 lbs and burly, so good for expeditions or if you’re super tall.

Sleeping Bag
Bring a synthetic bag. I like to bring a lighter weight bag and just plan to sleep in my puffy
jacket if it’s cold.

Inflatable Sleeping Pad

These are great for the many less-than-flat-or-level bivy ledges on
walls. They are also more warm than a foam pad. Pad the ground
with your rain jacket or haulbag so it doesn’t get a hole.

Bivi Sack
Bring a good one if there is any chance of a storm. It’s hard to beat
the BD Hooped bivy with its sewn through clip-in point.

40 | Introduction
Emergency Bivi Sack
If there is little chance of storm, save weight by bringing a 3-4 oz
emergency bivi sac. These sacks are very warm, so if you are trying
to climb fast and light, like on Half Dome, they pair well with a
puffy jacket and an inflatable sleeping pad for a decent night’s
sleep without a sleeping bag.

Gear
Offset Nuts
Bring 1 set of regular and 2 sets of brass micro nuts (one #3, then doubles of brass #4-6). The
brass ones get damaged easily if you try to jerk them out, so bring a baby hammer to tap them
out with your nut tool.

Cams
It’s a Totem Life!

Offset Cams
Bring 1-2 of each size for most routes. Borrow, scrounge, get these cams however you can. They
will make your bigwall introduction much easier. Fixe and Black Diamond’s are way better than
the others.

Cam Hooks
Bring 2 each Narrow and Wide. Camhooks are indispensible for
efficient climbing on walls. They fit into cracks that take pitons or tiny
nuts, but tend to be much more secure (and fast). They can help you
move beyond a section you would otherwise nail, or they can allow
you to motor through sections of thin nutting. Learning to cam hook
can be spooky, so practice before you get on the wall.
Narrow Camhooks
Hooks
(Grappling, Cliffhanger, and Talon are the names of Black
Diamond hooks) Bring a Grappling hook even on easy wall
to occasionally help transition from aid to free climbing.
A standard set of hooks is 1-2 each Talon or Bathook,
Cliffhanger, and Grappling (filed to a point). If the rack
calls for a large hook bring the Pika Ibis 3” hook. Sling your
hooks with strong webbing.
Cliffhanger Talon
Lead and Haul Lines
Use a 9.9mm or thicker lead line. If possible, splurge for a new rope before your first El Cap
climb. It will help you climb more confidently. For a haul line use an old 9 or 10mm climbing
rope (so if you have any trouble with your lead line you will have a spare).

Beaks
Refers to Peckers, Tomahawks or Krukonogis. Medium and big beaks can
be hand-placed as “hooks” in thin cracks and are pretty secure, but I like
to still tap them a couple times with the hammer to make sure they stay
in place. Big beaks get stuck easily so tap gently. Americans invented
beaks but the new Russian Krukonogis are impressive as well.

Introduction | 41
 Long Slings/Quickdraws/Cordelette
Bring 10-12 quickdraws, 5-7 ‘alpine draws’ or quickdraws made from long slings. Also bring 8-10
lightweight shoulder-length slings.

On most easy walls, your anchor will consist of two to three modern bolts equally spaced apart.
So a cordelette is overkill most of the time and just takes longer to setup and take down (and
only creates one power point). I prefer to use shoulder length runners and create two different
power points (easily done with three bolts, using two for one power point, and one shared and
one different bolt for a second power point). One power point is for the lead line, the other is
for the hauler. Slings are also great for coiling ropes, sticking through your sleeve of a jacket to
clip it on the back of your harness while cleaning, etc.

Biners/Locking Biners
Buy the lightest weight biners you are comfortable using. In addition to every piece on your
rack having its own racking biner, bring 14 free biners on a beginner wall with two people, and
21 free biners with three people. On grade VI climbs always bring 21 free biners. Lightweight
locking biners are great for the essential stuff you clip to your harness, like your ditty bag, belay
device, knife/prusiks, free shoes, ascenders, and hauler. Anything clipped under your haulbag
should be on a locking biner, as stuff tends to flip around down there. If you are short lockers
you can tape the gate shut, say on your poop tube or other things you don’t get out too often.

Rivet Hangers
These hook over rivets, or hangerless bolts, on aid pitches. Keep
one on each aider for leading pitches with rivets. Avoid the “cinch”
or butterfly style hangers as they do not hold falls.

Extended Rivet Hangers

If you need rivet hangers for the route and you are under 5’7”, bring
a couple of these.

Keyhole Hangers
These slide over hangerless bolts. They are stronger than rivet
hangers, but they take longer to fit on, and sometimes don’t fit, so
always bring both these and wire rivet hangers. Tie on a short clip-
in loop so you don’t drop them.

Knot Protector
Cut the top off a plastic water bottle. This keeps your haul line from
getting shredded over edges (the top of the water bottle fits over
er

your haul bag knot as a protector). Feed the end of your haul line
ang

through the water bottle and clip to your haul bag. Easy to make,
H

free, don’t forget this!

hole
Key

Hauler
Always bring two pulleys in case you drop one. The Micro Traxion
or similar is ok for your first walls, but once you start bringing
any amount of stuff you’ll want a Pro Traxion (bring the Micro as
backup). Always feed the haul line through the hauler, setting it up,
before giving it to the leader – this speeds things up, and hopefully
means it won’t get dropped.

42 | Introduction
Haul Bag
Bring one smaller, 4000+ cu. in. haulbag for rack, snacks, rain gear.
Bring one 7000+ cu. in. haulbag for everything else. The really
big haulbags are not ideal because it is very difficult to get to the
bottom of them.

Lowerout Line
Use 40-50 feet of 8-9mm rope to anchor the haul bags, and to lower
them out safely using a munter-mule knot.

Swivel
Bring a swivel when you go for the Nose, Salathe, or Lurking
Fear. Don’t bring it for your first, shorter walls, which tend to not
traverse as much (bring snickers instead ;).

Heads (Copper or Aluminum)

These are usually fixed on beginner climbs. They are essentially a
hammered nut which you shape BEFORE you slide it in the rock.
Unlike a nut, after sliding it in the rock you paste it in using a
center punch and hammer.

Center Punch
Bring a 1/8” punch if you are bringing copperheads for your climb.
They are great for removing old heads, and work pretty good for
placing new ones. Punches are available at a hardware store.

Artist: Mash Alexander

Introduction | 43
44 Photo: Tom Evans
Yosemite Search and Rescue
are the angels of Yosemite!
Support the team at friendsofyosar.com

45
Marek Raganowicz solo on Plastic Surgery Disaster, 5.8 A5, El Cap. Photo: Tom Evans

ElCapReport.com

Tom and Erik at the El Cap Bridge, 2007

Tom Evans has mentored and chronicled
climbers on his ElCapReport.com for over 20
years. Tom climbed Half Dome in 1970, using
only pitons, and made several early ascents of
El Capitan! Now a retired school teacher, Tom
typically spends 6–8 weeks in the Valley each
spring and fall, entertaining all of us with his
enthusiasm and wit. He’s a first Dad to some,
and a second to the rest of us…

Thanks Tom, We Love You!

47
 Ribbon
Fall
Ribbon Falls

Reason
Beyond
Insanity

Sky
People Awesome 5.3 hike / scramble
The to the summit of El Cap
Solar Hourglass
Power
Gates Arête
Ribbon Fall
Amphitheater
Silent Line /
Gold Wall
Chockstone lly
Chimney Gu
ap
E lC

Ribbon
Creek

Gold Wall Approach Trail:

Best approach for all routes
(unless Ribbon Creek is flowing)
In spring, approach all routes east
of Ribbon Falls (Dyslexia-Ribbon Candy)
via the east side of Ribbon Creek

Little
Wing

Foresta
N

Look for faint trail

just after the first
large boulder
Old Big Oak
Flat Road
road Valley Loop Trail
blocked

P Lurking Fear Pullout

locked gate P
El Capitan
El Capitan Bridge 1/2 mile
Meadow

Approach
This approach is steep and strenuous; allow 1.5-2.5 hours with a heavy pack. Park at a locked gate
on the right side of Northside Drive ~0.25 miles west of El Capitan meadow. Walk up the switch-
backing Old Big Oak Flat Road (closed) for 0.25 miles until it starts heading west. A faint trail begins
on the right, just after a large boulder. Start behind this boulder to begin the trail, which leads into
the woods and initially east toward Ribbon Creek. Once you reach the braided creekbeds of Ribbon
Creek, hike uphill on the west (left) side of the drainage. About halfway up the slope, the trail leads
away from the stream to the base of the Gold Wall. Just before reaching the Gold Wall, continue to
the east to access all other routes.

Descent
For Gold Wall, Laughing at the Void, and Gates of Delirium: Rappel the route.

For all other routes, hike a few hundred yards to the Valley Rim trail, and walk east 15-25 minutes to
the summit of El Cap, and then continue down the East Ledges Descent (4-6 hours - highly recom-
mended, see page 60). Alternatively, turn left on the Valley Rim trail and hike 7.5 miles to Tamarack
Flat Campground or 10 miles to the Hwy 120 at Foresta.

48 | Ribbon Falls
 6-12
1) The Gold Wall
5
1a) Silent Line var.
2) Laughing at the Void
3) Sky People
4) Reason Beyond Insanity
4 5) Hole in the Sky
6) Dyslexia
7) Keel Haul
8) The Ecstasy of Gold
9) Gates of Delirium
10) East Portal (no topo)
11) Solar Power Arête
12) Gold Ribbon
13) Vain Hope (no topo)
14) Ribbon Candy
1,2
15) Chockstone Chimney
16) Blue Collar
17) Indecision Time

13
14 Sherwood
Forest Descent
(6 rappels)

15
16 17

1a
12

13

3
1 2
4,5
6
7
8,9
10 11 12,13 14 17
15

Photo: Ryan Kirtland

16 49
 Gold Wall is rarely done as a
bigwall anymore. it’s included
here more as a bonus free climb.
Gold Wall is a good route to practice Gold Wall V 5.13a R or 5.9+ C2
french-free, and has a short aid FA: May 1965 - Layton Kor, Tom Fender
section at the start so a good
warm-up to bigwalling. FFA: 2004 - Dean Potter
Amazing, sunny route!

6 120'

old descent route

10a move or C1 (not recommended)
manzanita
jungle

5.9 splitter scramble up brushy

deep hands ledges to flat, summit-like
area
9 180’

5 100' 40’ rap

5.7 move
1-2"
wild belly
crawl through
window 5.9 C2+ 115’
chim rap
1-3"
p
C1 use long runners
5.9+
flare Descent: Rappel with one 70m rope
200' 4
100'

5.9 stem
C2 (wet in spring)
2-3" beautiful
splitter
Rack:
C2+ 3 Beaks: 1 ea #2
2 ea #3
5.9
2 Angles: 1 ea 1/2”, 5/8” steep
120' lb
2 x 7' ledge
Offset Cams: 1 ea
bivy for 1 2 Heads: 1 ea #2, #3
C1 8 165'
Hooks: 1 ea
.5-3" 95’ rap
2 Camhooks: Narrow 5.5
5.10 sustained Laughing At
fingers to off-hands 150' The Void,
or C1 belay takes Thin Line
Silent Line Rack: .75-2"
Nuts: 1 ea regular and micro
Cams: 2 ea .4”-1” 4.5"
5.11 or C1
3-4 ea 1.5”-3”
1.5-3"
2 ea 4” 95’ rap
130' “Gold Wall” 1 ea 5” 5.9 ow and
100' 3 Offset Cams: 1 ea chimney

1-2"
10b
Silent 10c or C1
Line 5.9 ow move
(Better Way)

p
p 7 100'

2 130'
205’ to ground

4" 10d flared hands 5.9 hands

or C2 glory!

11b or C2

110' 1
Laughing 6
C2 At The Void 7
A0 5.13a R
reach

5.8

5.9+

50 | Ribbon Falls
 9,11 180’

5.9
165’8,10
5.7
9

5.6
5.9
100’ 7
120’ 8
A2
5.9 7 120’
6 120’ A2+
Rainbow
90’ 6 Ledge
Tunnel 10a
Through C2
5 100’
5 115’

5.9+ C2
200’ 4 4 180’

5.10
A2

3 170’

100’ 3 C3
or A1
10c

2 100’
130’ 2
C2
11b
or C2 1 105’
110’ 1 C1
5.9 C2
or 13a Laughing at the Void
Silent Line /
Gold Wall

Photo: Ryan Kirtland 51

 Laughing at the Void VI 5.7 C4 or A2+
FA: May 2000 - Jerry, Sigrid, & Lynnea Anderson
Gold Rush Finish: March 2011 - Erik Sloan, Ryan Baker 95’ 10

Gold Wall
raps

old descent route 4 180’

(not recommended) manzanita 90’
jungle rap 5.7
9 100’
C2

11 180’

5.6 70’
40’ rap C4 or rap
5.7 move A2

8 120’
Descent: Rap the route Glory A1
(most parties leave their Splitter!
haulbags on Rainbow Ledge, 115’
rap
climb to the top, and then .3-1”
C2
grab their stuff while rapping
5.9 stem
down - similar to South Face wet in spring
of Washington Column). “Gold
Rush”
A2 beaks

Gold Wall
5.9
steep
lieback C2

3 170’

10 C3 thin 7 120’
Gold Wall
raps
A2+
beaks
few
.3-1”
Rack:
Beaks: 1 ea #1 loose
2-3 ea #2
C2
5-6 ea #3
3 LAs: 1 ea #2-4 A2

2 Angles: 1 ea 1/2”, 5/8”

Nuts: 1 ea Thin
leave haulbag here Line
Cams: 3 ea .3-1.5” 90’ 6

2 ea 2-4.5” Rainbow Ledge

bivy for 2
4 Heads: 1 ea #1-#4
2 100’
5.7
3 Hooks: 1 ea talon,
cliffhanger, grappling 190’ to ground

Camhooks: 2 ea

C2 C2
.3-3” link 1 & 2
w. 65m rope
5 115’
5.9 or
C1 5.7
or
1 105’ C1

Gold Wall C1
.3-2.5” .3-4”

head C2

C1
C2 groove

300’ to Ribbon Creek

52 | Ribbon Falls
 Laughing at the Void is characterized by perfect splitter
cracks interspersed with a couple bolt ladders. The climbing is
always moderate, the ledge is decent for two, and the mist
from the nearby falls is rarely more than pleasant. This is the
best beginner nailing route because it is short, and the cracks
are in the middle of the wall not tucked in a corner. Laughing
at the Void is a little harder than Skull Queen, and is a logical
next step after climbing The Prow.
Plan: Hike up with a light pack your first time to dial in the
trail - easy once you know where to go, but steep! Ribbon Fall
is one of the first waterfalls to dry up each year, so often by
mid-May there is just water running down the wall. So if you
9,11 180’ plan it right, you can have all your water already right near the
base! To get water, hike a couple hundred feet over to the
creek.

5.9 Most parties fix two pitches and sleep at the base, then climb
165’8,10 to Rainbow Ledge on day two. The route above is more
5.7
challenging, so if you are a total beginner it might be best to
9
rappel from Rainbow your first time.
5.6
5.9
The Elements: Laughing at the Void is in full sun most of the
100’ 7
120’ 8 day, though it does benefit from the mist of Ribbon Fall in
A2
spring, making it a little more cool. Retreat by rappelling the
5.9 7 120’ route.
6 120’ A2+
Rainbow FA History: Jerry and Sigrid Anderson are the original (OG)
90’ 6 Ledge pioneer fixed anchor stewards of Yosemite. Jerry recalls
Tunnel 10a
Through C2 replacing the original bolts on the South Face of the Column.
5 100’
5 115’
“They came out just by pulling on the quickdraw!”
5.9+ C2
200’ 4 For this route, which they climbed with their daughter Lynnea,
4 180’

5.10 they put in only the best bolts available: stainless 3/8” bolts on
A2 the bolt ladders as well as at the anchors. Incredibly, all were
drilled by hand (ouch)!
3 170’

100’ 3 C3 They climbed during a stormy spring, and drilling all those
or A1 bomber bolts took a lot of time. “We were living up there on
10c the wall for at least a week,” recalls Jerry, “just hanging out
having a good family vacation.”
2 100’
130’ 2
C2 The Andersons climbed a nearby free route above Rainbow
11b Ledge, which is dirty and of lower quality. My friend Ryan and
or C2 1 105’ I added the direct finish in 2011. The direct finish is good, but
110’ 1 C1
5.9 C2 is a little bit harder and adventurous.
or 13a Laughing at the Void
Silent Line /
Gold Wall

Photo: Ryan Kirtland 53

 Reason Beyond Insanity VI 5.7 A3+
150' 5 FA: 1995 - Sean Easton, Dave Sheldon
A2
Approach: 1.5 -2 hrs
Descent: 3 - 6 hrs
10 The descent is long but mostly easy walking. First
8" you scramble (30 - 45 min) up a steep manzanita
A3
and talus field to reach the rim of the Valley,
C2 loose
where you immediately find the wide, flat Pohono
trail. Follow the trail right or East (30 - 50 min)
to the summit of El Cap. From here walk down
5.7 exposed slabs (south or toward the edge of El
4 180'
Cap) until you reach the top of the Nose, marked
by several flat bivy spots next to trees, just fifty
“The Long Arm feet ( 15 meters) above the edge of El Cap. Walk
of the Law”
A3+ beaks left on the faint trail and exposed slabs of the
A2+
RURPs East Ledges Descent. The East Ledges Descent
& beaks
is relatively straightforward, but it can also be
Rack: 9 90'
easy to get off route your first time. Study (or
4 RURPs ideally print out) the East Ledges Descent info
20 Beaks: 4ea #1, 6ea #2, from pages 60-61.
pins & 10ea #3 A3+ “The Maze”
heads 5 KBs: 1 ea #1-#5
13 LAs: 3 ea #1-#3
2 ea #4-#5
A3 4 Angles: 2 ea 1/2”, 5/8”
5 Sawed Angles: 2 ea 1/2”- 3/4”
1 ea 1” 180' 8
3 130' “Suspended
Nuts: 2 ea micro, 1 ea regular Particle
Cams: 3 ea .5-3.5” Pitch”
500’ of
2 ea 4.5”, 8” A3 manzanita to
19 Heads: 4 ea #1 Valley rim.
C1
4" 5 ea #2-#4 60' 12

4 Circleheads: 2 ea #2, #3
“The Hooks: 2 ea
Refuge Area” 5th
Camhooks
2 170' 5 Rivet Hangers 5.6

A2
70' 7
The Asylum
C1
5.6 good bivy
for 4
5.6

A2 beaks 11 130'
A2

5.6

A3
200' 1 6 170' 1"

C1 arrows
& blades
Hole in
the Sky
A1
10
C2 camhook A3 arrows
!

“We shared a similar drive, work

C1 ethic, and could both suffer like
blank
starving third world dogs.”
back wall Dave Sheldon

sweet flat ledges 5

Ribbon Fall
54 | Ribbon Falls
to East Ledges descent

Reason Beyond Insanity (RBI) is arguably the best aid line in

Ribbon Fall, though it is not climbable in early spring when
60’ 12 the waterfall is running (Laughing at the Void, nearby, is top
quality though much easier, and is climbable in spring). The
A2
11130’ rock is clean and steep, there is a plush bivy ledge, and the
A3 upper roof pitches are outrageous. RBI is easier than Afroman,
but a little harder than Zodiac or the Shield, and has a more
10 130’
remote/alpine feel than those routes.
A3+ Plan: Hike up with a light pack your first time to dial in the
(Crux) 9 90’ trail (easy once you know where to go, but steep!) Ribbon Fall
A3+
“The Maze” A is one of the first waterfalls to dry up each year, so often by
8 180’
mid-May there is just water running down the wall, only 30 ft.
A3
to the right of the route. So if you time it correctly, you can
The have all your water already at the base!
Asylum
70’ 7 Most parties fix two pitches and spend three nights on the
A2 wall and a night on the summit - because you hike over to the
6 170’ top of El Capitan, to descend the East Ledges Descent, it can
be nice to spend a night on top of El Cap.
A3
The Elements: RBI is slightly shaded by the amphitheater
150’ 5
A2 walls, getting sun from 9/10am to 4/5 pm. While the steep
pitches in the middle would be fairly dry in a storm, for the
most part this route runs with water when it storms. Retreat
180’ 4 by rappelling the route; some down-aiding may be required
above pitch 5.
A3 FA History: Sean Easton spotted the line and recruited Dave
Sheldon to join him on the FA. Easton had attempted the line
3 130’ in 1994, but bailed after two pitches due to poor weather. “We
were a strange team,” recalls Sheldon, “Easton was a hard
C1
drinking, full-on Canadian climbing bum who showed up in
170’ 2
Camp 4 with his stuff in a green trash bag, and me, a sensitive
A2 upper middle-class kid fresh out of college looking for some
sort of real education, or at least a way to postpone life a little
bit longer. In the end we found that we shared a similar drive,
work ethic, and could both suffer like starving third-world
200’ 1 dogs.”
Laughing at Sheldon’s lead through the massive, overlapping ‘Maze’ roofs
the Void C2 was the highlight. “The pitch was so insanely steep, I finished
drilling the belay around 1 a.m. Then while setting up camp, I
couldn’t get my ledge together as it was a prototype junker
Silent Line /
some smooth-talker had sold me. After an hour of struggling I
Gold Wall
was finally able to lie down, rest, and eat my dinner ration for
the day - one Powerbar. Sean ‘conserved’ water by saving his
King Cobras until the last couple nights and having them for
dinner. It was a typical dirtbag situation.”
Photo: Ryan Kirtland 55
 Gates of Delirium IV 5.12a or 5.11a A0
FA: 2002 - Sean Jones, Jake Jones

Sean Jones is one of the most prolific FA'ists in

the modern era of Yosemite. He put up many
hundreds of pitches in the Valley including a
whole new crag above and to the west of Ribbon
Fall that has about 60 pitches on it. As Sean says:
6 60’
"Thats like two Noses!"
killer view
of falls!
hanging belay 150’ 9 roof
4-5”

5.9
ramp

alcove
5 110’ rappel anchor

10a
11a
scrappy

giant arête
thin

5.9 9 pitches of
moderate climbing
up arête to rim,
followed by
long, burly walk
8 110’ off back to
4 110’ Valley Rim trail
to East Ledges
Rack: of El Cap
descent
Ecstasy Nuts
of 10 most parties rappel
Gold Cams: 2 ea .3”-3” from here
11a with one 70m
1 ea 4”,5” steep rope
10b ow 5.11d
thin
lieback

3 110’
11b
fingers
chimney
11a ow
10b var.

10a
big hands 1 1/4”
E.O.G. 110’ 7 steep!
2 70’

Keel A1
10c
Haul
Dyslexia
blocky
10c roof 9

110’
1 5.11
step across
11a
thin

400’ to 12a East 10d

Ribbon Fall or A0 Portal wide &
stemming

150’ to Gold Ribbon,

Solar Power Arête 10c
crack switch
Ribbon Creek
may be difficult to 6
cross during spring

56 | Ribbon Falls
Sean Jones on his other, less classic, Ribbon Falls route
Sky People (5.11c). Photo: Shawn Reeder
El Capitan

The Nose New Dawn

Salathé Wall

El Niño
Lurking Fear

West Face Far Southwest Face Southwest Face The Dawn Wall North America Wall
Pg 70 Pg 74 Pg 92 Pg 184 Pg 214

58
Approach
You can approach most El Cap routes by parking on Northside Drive by
the meadow directly below the cliff. Take the obvious trail just west of the
intersection of Northside Drive and El Cap Crossover for 10-15 minutes to
the base of the Nose.
For routes to the east of the North America Wall, park at the large 'Zodiac
Pullout' on the right of Northside drive ~500’ before (east) of El Cap
Meadow. Walk into a clearing and then go right, around a large boulder
and angle up to the talus field above. Hike directly up the talus to the base
of the wall. If you have a particularly heavy load, you may want to use the
standard (Nose) approach - but better to just take two, moderate loads.
For the routes from the West Face to the Nose, you just follow a trail along
the base of the wall.
Bear boxes are located at the Zodiac turnout, at the El Cap Picnic Area
(Manure Pile Parking), and at El Cap Bridge.

Zodiac

East Buttress

Southeast Face
Pg 228

Photo: xRez.com 59
 El Capitan
East Ledges Descent
easy trail
from top of Nose, Zodiac
trail through manzanita forest
(not recommended) -
use if there is rain or snow Descent from the Nose
easy trail
from top of Nose, Zodiac
B
trail through manzanita forest From the summit of the Nose, walk east along the
(not recommended) -
use if there is rain or snow edge of El Cap on mostly exposed slab, 50 to 100
B
meters in from the edge, until you reach the Zodiac
creekbed
topout marked by a sidewalk-width ledge running
perpendicular to the cliff. This first portion of the
creekbed

large boulder with cairn on top

descent is very easy and straightford—you are just
large boulder with cairn on top walking down
trail through easy,
dense exposed slab—staying near the
manzanita
forest (not recommended) -
A use if there is rain or snow
Horsetail trail through dense manzanita
Fall exposed steeper wall
forest (not recommended) -
A slab use if there is rain or snow
C
Horsetail
Fall exposed steeper wall
East Buttress slab 5.2
topout C down-
climb
East Buttress 5.2
topout down- forest wild
climb dikes
D

forest wild
dikes
D

True Summit 7,569 ft

The Nose

easy walking
down slab

creekbed

The Zodiac manzanita

forest

East Buttress topout Wild Dikes

crux
(routefinding)
East Ledges
Rappels

easy trail
through
forest
Ranger Rock
(Manure Pile)

El Capitan
60 Picnic Area
edge of the cliff but not dangerously close to it. You
never get more than 100 meters away from the edge
of the cliff. From Zodiac you zigzag down through
manzanita to a creekbed. Follow the creekbed down
toward the edge, where you will see a large boulder,
with a cairn on top, that marks where the trail re-
enters the manzanita forest for a few hundred feet
to the topout of the East Buttress. (a non-distinct
area of slabs and trees). (A) Alternative: If these intial
slabs are wet or icy you will have to traverse the slab
to the north and work your way down an obvious
manzanita forest which runs down the side of the
exposed slab (B).
Descent from the East Buttress
From the East Buttress topout, walk down, zig-
zagging along mostly exposed slab until you can
traverse across skier's left to a forested trail next
to the steep wall (C). This trail ends at a large slab
that faces the “Wild Dikes” formation on the left (D).
Move down a short 4th class section in front of the
Wild Dikes and walk skier’s right across the drainage
(E). Scramble more or less straight down, until you
reach a ledge with a small pine tree (F). Four rappels
bring you to a large ledge above a drainage (G).
Scramble east down some 4th class and take the
climber’s trail back to the El Capitan Picnic Area. The
descent takes 1.5-3 hours.
Alternatively to the East Ledges, you can walk
0.25miles to the summit of El Cap and follow the
Eagle Peak and Upper Yosemite Falls trails for 8.5
miles toCamp 4. This is a grueling alternative to the
East Ledges.

wild Pink numbers 1 show linking between this topo and the photo below.
dikes
D
wild
dikes
E D
steep wal 1
crux, exposed slab section l
of East Ledges - Photo below was taken from 1
this area shown in more detail Tree at the bottom

ex sla
of exposed slab

po b
that tries 2
E

se
to lead you astray.

d
steep wall
F
steep wall
100’
alternate rap route 3
(not recommended)
90’ 5.2
East Ledges no
4 pitches to climb up rap line: Route
1- 5.10 4
5.7+
2- 5.11 bolted, 100’
3- 5.10 bolted F
4- 5.7
140’
fixed ropes
steep, smooth
wall
East Ledges
G Route

5.2

N 4
3
creek E
bed

Ranger
Rock

Nutcracker
bear boxes,
restroom, and dumpster

parking 1

Northside Drive
El Cap Picnic Area
El Capitan | 61
 WEST FACE 6
1) Mr. Midwest 4
2) The West Face 5
3) Realm of the Flying Monkeys
4) Allied Forces
5) Mirage
6) Lurking Fear 1-3

2
4

1 3
2

1
4

2-5

62 Photo: Ryan Kirtland 6

 Photo: xRez.com
14,15 14,16
1-10
17,18

11
15
15a

3 10a
8 5,6

16
18

17

6
10 15a

7
2a
2 14

11

17
18

1
15-17
2

3 18
4
1) Lurking Fear 5
2a) Squeeze Play var.
6,7
2) Lost World
3) Hole World 14
4) West Buttress 13
5) Octopussy
6) Never Never Land 8
9
7) Aquarian Wall
8) Winds Of Change
9) Wings Of Steel 14) Heart Route
10,11
10) Horse Chute 15) Salathé Wall
10a) Horseplay var. 15a) Freerider
11) Dihedral Wall 16) Golden Gate
12
12) Cosmos 17) El Corazón
13) Excalibur 18) Magic Mushroom
FAR SOUTHWEST FACE 13,14
63
 SOUTHWEST FACE
5,7a
6-9 24 21
11,14 13,15 12,16 20 23
10
18a 17ab,18 17,19 25-27
4,22
2,3

18a 24
17
19

1
12
22a

18 17ab

21
17b
9,14
11 10
4
6 17a
27

22

24 26
20
22a 18 13 25
23
15
14
5 14 17
12 21

24

13 15 23
22 18
4 18a
11
15a

21
10

7a 8 25
6
11,18
9 24
7 13
3
15
17,23 12

1 2 20
10

19
7a,22 21
15

1) Aquarian Wall
4
2) Horse Chute
3) Dihedral Wall 7a
12
4) Bermuda Dunes 20
7
5) Golden Gate
6) Pacemaker 24
7) Heart Route 15
7a) Free Heart Route 15a,18 25
26
8) Verano Magico* 12
9) Son of Heart
10) Jolly Roger 2,3 16
15
11) Sunkist 18a) Free Magic Mush.
12) Quo Vadis 19) Skylab variation* 20
22
13) Flight of the Albatross 20) Mediterraneo
14) El Corazon 21) Ephemeron 4,7 27
15) The Shield 22) Salathé Wall 18
15a) Dorn Direct 22a) Freerider 10
16) False Shield* 23) Triple Direct
17) Muir Wall 24) The Direct
15a
17a) Premuir 25) Grape Race 12
25
17b) The Shaft 26) The Nose 24
17,18a
18) Magic Mushroom 27) The Real Nose 4,5,18
20,22,23 21

64 Photo: xRez.com
 3, 5-8,
THE DAWN WALL 1,2,4
13 14
11
18,10
7a
9, 15,
1) The Nose 16,19
2) Central Scrutinizer
2
3) Tribal Rite 10
4) The Real Nose 1,4 20,21
5) Genesis 8
6) Disorderly Conduct
7) New Dawn
7,13
7a) Passage to Freedom
8) Reticent Wall
9) Adrift 14

10) Free Dawn Wall

11) Mescalito
12) Martyr’s Brigade
14
13) Wall of Early Morning Light 7a
18

14) Space
15) South Seas 9
16) Atlantis 2
8
17) Block Party*
18) Tempest 5
18
19) Pacific Ocean Wall 6 11
20) North America Wall
16
21) El Niño
9

3 18
1,4
6 5 9,11,
7a 7a 7,10, 14
13

8 19,15
1
5 14
2
7
9,11

7a 9 18,16 15
10,11 14

9,13
7
8
6
9
10-13

18,16
15
14
9,10
4
11

7
16

17
16

7a
15 18
9-11
14 17

19 20
6
21

1
13
12

2 4-11 Photo: xRez.com 65

 1,2
1) Every Man for Himself 6) Nightmare on California Street 15) Iron Hawk
2) Pacific Ocean Wall 7) Wyoming Sheep Ranch 16) Highway to Hell
6 3) Sea of Dreams 8) Continental Drift 17) Hamas Fights For Freedom
4) Ring of Fire 9) Heavy Metal and Tinker Toys 18) Native Son
5) North America Wall 10) El Niño 19) Scorched Earth
3,4,5 11) New Jersey Turnpike 20) Sticky Rice
7,10,12
12) Heartland 21) Aurora
8
13 13) Gulfstream 22) Tangerine Trip
14) Atlantic Ocean Wall 23) Virginia
9,11
9 11 24) Lost in America
14-17
25) Ned’s Excellent Adventure
5
26) KAOS
27) Zenyatta Mondatta
10
6 18-23
25
1 3
24,26,27

13

5
10

24
25

4,6
2
12
5,10 19 21
3
27
1 22
8
17

7 9
11
15

4 5
18
3 14
1 2

6
5

16
21
9
20

16
14 15
19
23
25
17
22 24
21

9
18 20
16
8,10

11,12
24

17
8 25
Photo: xRez.com

10

23 27
18 20 14,15, 19 24,25 26
16,17 22,23
13

66
1 2 3
4 5 6 7 8
9 10-12 NORTH AMERICA WALL
 SOUTHEAST FACE 1) Abstract Expressionist*
2) The Shortest Straw
12) The Secret Passage
13) Eagle’s Way
3) Zodiac 14) On the Waterfront
2,3
5,7
4) Surgeon General 15) High Plains Dripper
5) Lunar Eclipse 16) Pressure Cooker
6) Born Under a Bad Sign 17) Get Whacked
4
7) Free Zodiac 18) Chinese Water Torture
8, 11,12 6,9
8) Plastic Surgery Disaster 19) Waterfall Route
10 13-15 9) Bad Seed 20) Lost in Translation
19 10) The Prophet 21) Dark Star
11) Bad to the Bone 22) East Buttress
16,17

8
11,12

5 18,21

20
9 22
5 10 16

11,12 13
10
9 17
11 20
17 18
10
R ock

20
21
fall

17
6 12

8 19

17

16 20

14
10,11 15

19
12

4
2 12,13
17
16
1 18
3,7 8
5 6

16 17

20 22
21
7-9 10-13 15 16-20
5,6 14
1 2 3 4

Photo: xRez.com 67
 SOUTHWEST FACE
2,6
4,7
FREE ROUTES
3,3a 8
9

6 7

5a
8

3a

4 3

6
7

3 8

5a

4
1) Dihedral Wall
2) Free Heart Route
3) Free Muir (The Shaft) 1
3a) Premuir
4) Free Magic Mushroom
5) Salathé 2
5a) Freerider
6) Golden Gate
7) El Corazon
8) Platinum Wall (The Direct)
9) The Nose 9

8
3,4

5-7
68 Photo: xRez.com
A Note About Bigwall Free Climbing

It really surprised me when I wrote

my first guidebook and asked Tommy
Caldwell to write a ‘Bigwall Free
Climbing Standards’ section and he
brushed off my request, saying:
The New Yorker
Magazine
“There have always been so many
different definitions of what free
climbing means on bigwalls - I support
all of them: Free As Can Be, Team Free,
Team Redpoint, Redpoint, and Free are ”Bring something worth reading to your bivi”
all valid styles of bigwall free climbing.
To me, if someone says they free - Chongo
climbed the route they free climbed
the route. It’s all about pushing your free
climbing limits!”

Clearing Valley Loop Trail

(old parking
lot)

El Cap Lieback - Grade I

FA: 1868 - John Muir, Galen Clark

Lurking Fear
pullout
El Cap
parking p
parking Bridge
parking
bear
boxe
s
p

1
Tom’s
El Cap Lake Tree
(seasonal)
El Cap Meadow
Pack it in, pack it out!

good
good bivy swimming
for many
Rack: Me
rce
2

Snacks d Riv
er
Binoculars (10 x 50 is ideal)
Yosemite Bigwall Guide (essential)
Beers (optional)
Blanket (optional)

Descent:
Reverse the route. Don’t drink and drive!

El Capitan | 69
 185’
7

El Cap Arms
OK bivy for 2-3 Mr. Midwest V 5.13 or 5.9 A3
FA: August 1985 - Bill Russell, Doug McDonald
5.10 FFA: May 10, 2016. Eric Bissell, Cameron King
or C1

130’ 13

Thanksgiving Ledge
5.9+
5.9

150’ 12

11a wild roof!

Aid Rack: 145’ 6

C2

10 Beaks: 2 ea #1 5.7 ROTFM

3 ea #2 A2
5 ea #3 10a or C1
5 LAs: 1 ea #1-#5 11 115’
11c
4 Angles: 2 ea 1/2”, 3/4”
Nuts: 1 ea micro, 1 ea regular
Cams: 1 ea .3” “Techno Funk” A2
beaks
3 ea .4-1” 5.12+
5.8 dirty
4 ea 1.25-3”
5.7
2 ea 3.5-5” 135’ 5 5.13 ROTFM
10 Heads: mostly #2, #3 35m rap
Hooks: 1 ea to 4
“Monkey Roof” p 10 150’
free belay
5 Rivet Hangers p 150’ 10
5.12 or A2
10c
5” A2

West
Face
5.9 Free Rack: 12a or
A3
4 100’55m Black Corner
rap
5.6 to W2 Nuts: 1 ea micro
5.11 R
Cams: 2 ea .3”-1.25”
130’
1 ea 1.5” - 4” 9 95’
“Crystal
Offset Cams: 1ea of the Eternal
West Now”
5.6 Face

5.8 5.10
10a hands p
115’ 3 3”-4” Sl
ab

8 130’

10a
lb 5.9+ wild roof
110’ stay right
W2 60m rap pp
A3 to ground
fixed heads
11a
5.9
5.10R
pp
West
Face
2 100’ 11c
thin p 10c
110’
or C1
11b or C1 300’
of 7 185’
beautiful
gold corner super
fun
5.3 El Cap Arms
OK bivy for 2-3
West 11c
Chimney 1 100’ Mr. Midwest ROTFM & 5.10
steeper or C1
West Face
wall
A2 p tips
follow gully, 5.8 lb
12a then move left to arête
5.7
230’
14
use long runners
180’

5.6

Mirage,
Allied Forces 13 110’

4th class/ Girdle

Thanksgiving Traverse
move belay
Lurking Fear 800’ Ledge 13

Awesome Bivy!
70 | El Capitan
 5.3
14230’

5.7
13 130’
5.9+
13

Thanksgiving 5.3 12 150’

Ledge 11a
11 115’
5.8 dirty
10 150’

12a
Black Corner
95’ 9
10b
8 130’

10c R
185’ 7
El Cap
Arms
5.10

6 145’

5.12+
“Techno Funk”
5 135’
5.13
West Face “Monkey Roof”
5.12
4 5”

10a
3 115’
11a

100’ 2

11b
1 100’
12a

West Face

Photo: Ryan Kirtland

71
 West Face IV 5.11c or V 5.10 C1+
FA: June 1967 - TM Herbert, Royal Robbins
6 130’
FFA: May 1979 - Ray Jardine, Bill Price Approach:
This grueling approach takes 75 - 90 minutes,
History: and makes doing the West Face, Valley to Valley
in a day, pretty epic. Follow the main trail on the
5.7 Ray Jardine led the push to
left side of El Cap, passing one fourth-class
free climb the West Face two
section, to the base of Lurking Fear. Continue
years after establishing Yosemite’s
11a along the wall into a large gully, where you angle
10c first 5.13, the Phoenix (5.13a, at
left, out of the gully, up steep dirt and fourth
Cascade Falls). Jardine invented
and occasional fifth class moves. Eventually,
camming devices, which he called ‘Friends’.
11c you reach an open (gully) area where you can
300’
of look right and see the boulder perch that
p super marks the beginning of the route.
140’ 5 belay takes 1-3” fun
5.3
Descent:
10a steeper Allow two to four hours. Walk east toward
wall
glory the Nose (try to avoid walking uphill) until
hands follow gully, 5.8 lb
then move left to arête you can angle down low-angle slabs. From
230’ the Nose topout, skirt the cliff face to the
14

5.8 East, walking a few hundred feet in from the

180’ edge, via the East Ledges. Study the East Ledges
MM
4 130’
Descent on page 60-61.
Realm
5.7 move

150’ 11
11
bivy ledge 13110’
13
Grand Terrace
5.8 Mr. Midwest, exposed slab/ Girdle
fun Thanksgiving Traverse
Realm of the Flying Monkeys move belay 100’ 13
5.9 hands/fist Ledge
poor
steep pro

10a
5.6
3 185’ 5.7
wild face traverse 5.8
5.6
10
10 165’
5.8 140’ 12
12 belay takes
150’ 1-3.5”
5.9 5.8
NO
5.8 lb Rack: crystalline 5.9 face
Nuts: 1 ea regular, micro dike
steep
10d
Cams: 2 ea .3”-3” stemming
amazing move right
1 ea 4” (not needed if ok with 5.9 R) crack
Offset Cams: 1 ea 10b
10a lb
p 99 165’ 10a
p
2 130’
70m to
ground steep face
11
11
wild crack 10a
5.10R pp through
p roof
5.11
p thin
p
p
1 130’ p
5.7
5.5 10d R
beauty
10b 150’ 77 p circuitous
gold corner pitch
90’ 88 p

60’
West 11c
Chimney
Mr. Midwest crack
5.8 switch
El Cap Arms
5.7 4’x6’ ledge
200’ p
improbable 11c
traverse right steep!
(blank looking slab)
p
p Mr. Midwest

5.6

Mirage, 66
Allied Forces

Lurking Fear 800’

72 | El Capitan
The West Face is, for most of us, the best free
climb on El Cap - it’s incredible! The climbing
is much different and more featured than
most Yosemite crack climbs. The 5.11 cruxes
all have fixed pieces, so can be easily aided,
but you still have to be confident climbing 5.3
5.10b above your gear. While not counted as
14230’
an ‘El Cap Route,’ because of its Grade V
rating (the East Buttress, on the other side of 5.7
the mountain, is similar being a Grade III), no 100’ Thanksgiving
110’ 13
13
Ledge
one cares - the West Face is all time glory 5.3
climbing. The best part is this amazing route 5.7
is in the shade until almost noon!
12 140’

Grand 10d
Plan: The hour and a half approach, includ- 150’
Terrace 11

ing a few third class sections, is tough and

5.9
almost worth practicing once. Start early if
attempting this route in a day (recommend-
ed). The first couple pitches are stout, 10 165’
somewhat circuitous, so a little slower. Don’t
be discouraged if they go slowly. As you 10b
climb higher you will feel more confident, 9 165’

and climb quicker. Lurking

Fear
Most parties climb the route in a day, 150’ 7 10d R
5.7 8 90’
because the approach is so strenuous and El Cap
11c
difficult with heavy packs. That said, a fair Arms
130’ 6
number of parties fix a couple pitches, and
bivy at the base. Then they climb to the
11c
summit and descend the next day; the only
downside to this strategy is the time and 140’ 5
energy to go back to the base to retrieve 10a
hands
your bivy gear - maybe not so bad in spring,
when water flows in the gully near the base. 4 130’
FA/FFA History: Royal Robbins and TM
If doing the route in a day is a stretch, 10a Herbert first climbed the West Face over
consider having the second jug pitches to 3 185’ four soggy days in June 1967. They didn’t
speed things up, similar to how folks climb fix pitches, preferring to climb the route
Half Dome or the Nose in a day. This route is bottom to top in one go. With no cams
so classic you will be happy to go back and (they weren’t invented until1976), the
climb it again, to lead the pitches you 10a lb
duo used sky hooks, nuts, and pitons,
missed! Be sure to bring plenty of water! 130’ 2 calling the route 5.9 A4.

The Grand Terrace and the cave on Thanks- In 1979, Ray Jardine - inventor of cams -
giving Ledge are super plush ledges. 5.11 and Bill Price made the first free ascent.
130’ 1

The Elements: West Face is in the sun from Immediately recognized as a plausible
noon until sunset. It gets windy the higher 11c day route, in 1976 John Long and Dale
you climb, so this is still a good objective Bard climbed the West Face in five and a
when it is pretty warm in the Valley. Retreat half hours. In 1999, Timmy O’Neil and
by rappelling the route. From the pitch 3 Hans Florine blitzed the route in under
anchor it is 70m to the ground. two hours.

Photo: Ryan Kirtland

73
 Lurking Fear VI 5.6 C2+ or 5.13c
105’ 7
FA: May 1976 - Dave & Phil Bircheff, Jim Pettigrew
1-4”
FFA: June 2000 - Tommy Caldwell, Beth Rodden
13c
var. Topout Overview
6 110’

5.12 or
12c C1 hooks
or C2 slab
penji 13 140’
.3-1.5” rap
C1 5.3
splitter glory

100’ 5
5.8 loose
or C2
400’ of slabs
NO
12b or C1
12b
or C1 .3-2” thin
12 95’ 19
Note: rap route:170’
to fixed ropes 5.6
130’ 4 10 on easy slabs
3-4.5”
5.10 or good
12a C2+ C2 hook var. bivy
or hooks thin 12c/d var. 135’ 19
C2 thin
.3-2.5” C1 p p p
10b or pp
C2 hooks 100’ 11 160’ to ledge 5.3 cool
150’ 3 .4-2.5”
2-4” C1 Pitches 18 & 19
5.9 or do not link - they
C1 p Grand Traverse traverse too much.
Don’t worry - pitch 95’ NO
Window Pane 13a p West 19 is very quick!
18 NO
Flake or Buttress steep
C1 awk
C2+ crack on
10 110’ 10b 4”
left wall
C2+ 80’ to ledge
190’ 5.12 5.9
2 130’ or camhook
12d or C2 thin Thanksgiving or C1
5.10 A0 Ledge
Lost 17
amazing bivy
World Girdle Traverse 90’ cave move belay
C1
awk 170’ 17
bivy for 2
Motel Zed 5.7
110’ rappel route
1.5” 9
10a 60m ropes
13c Pillar of or C1 mandatory
Despair 4”
5.10
or C1 grassy
steep 4.5”
190’ 11d ow
.6-3” or C1
1 130’ 16 140’
12c or 5.9 fun
hooks or
C1 180’
10b
2” 130’ 8 or C1
11b
.5-3”
5.11
original
route
66m rappel
to 6 10d ow
Rack:
or C2
or C1 Nuts: 2 ea micro, 1 ea regular
hooks 3”-4” for 80’
(better way) Cams: 3 ea .3”-1”
edge of 2-3 ea 1.25”-4” 5.6
SW Face 1ea 5”
drainage 10d 140’ 15
has water or C1 Offset Cams: 2 ea
in spring 10c
7
3 Hooks: 1 ea or C2
Camhooks .3-3” p
nice flat spot p 160’
Approach Overview NO
5.6
Peter 14 130’
Pan good bivy
5.6 for 2
edge of Lurking Lost
SW Face Fear World 5”
West NO
Octopussy
Buttress
Hole Aquarian 5.7
World fun
10d
or C2 awk
5.2 ramp
“Ned’s
Mantel” 5.11 R
5.6 (not recommended) slab
grass 13

left edge of
3rd Class Wings of
Steel slab

74 | El Capitan
Lurking Fear, El Cap’s easiest route, is incredible.
Splitter, straightforward cracks abound. The ledges, 135’ 19
while higher on the route, are decent to palatial. The
5.3
climbing is steep without being intimidating like the
95’ 18
Nose or the Salathé, though there are more short tricky 10b or C1
aid sections than on those routes. Earlier reports of the 11d ow 90’ 17 17 Thanksgiving
hauling being difficult are not true! Lurking Fear is a or C1 Ledge
logical next step after South Face and Skull Queen; it is 140’ 16
a more sustained version of The Prow. The best part is 10b
this amazing route is in the shade until almost noon! or C1 Rappel
140’ 15 Route
Plan: You will need a portaledge for your first night on
the wall. Ideally, inflatable portaledges are best, 10c
because you only need to hang for one night, and their or C2
Rappel
thickness will be deluxe on the sloper ledges at pitch Route
9.5 or pitch 14 the second night. ledge 130’ 14

5.7
10d or C2
Spend the first day dialing in the approach (make sure Ned’s 13 140’

your first load is light), and fixing the first one to three Mantel 5.3
pitches with two ropes, and bivy at the base. There are
12b or C1
deluxe bivy spots right near the base. Day two, climb to 95’ 12 5.12+
pitch 7 or 9. Day three, climb to Thanksgiving Ledge or C2
the summit. The last two pitches are really fast, but the 100’ 11 The
T-ledge is also super cool. Grand Traverse
13a or C2+ (West Buttress)
110’ 10
The Elements/Retreat: Lurking Fear is in the sun from 5.12
noon until five or six pm, but is usually breezy and The Ledge
or C2
cooler after the first seven pitches. 110’ 9 5.9 or C1

5.9 or C1 The Pillar of Despair

The long cracks on this route quickly become waterfalls
130’ 8
during a storm. Climb prepared! Lurking Fear can be
rappelled at any point (two 60m ropes mandatory). 10d or C1
Note on the topo that the rappel route is independent
from the climbing route between pitches thirteen and 105’ 7
seventeen. From Thanksgiving ledge you make several 13c or C1
straightforward rappels straight down.
110’ 6 5.12
12c or C1
FA History: Dave and Phil Bircheff, and Jim Pettigrew or C2
first climbed Lurking Fear in May 1976. They bailed
from pitch 8 their first attempt because they did not 100’ 5
12b
bring enough large hexes and tube chocks to free or C1
climb the sustained 10d offwidth pitch. They comically 130’ 4
jettisoned their haulbag with a makeshift parachute
12a
consisting of their three nylon belay seats. The haulbag
or C2
rocketed to the ground and exploded on impact.
3 150’ Window Pane
They returned with the clean gear, and a new haulbag, Flake
and Jim onsighted pitch 8! They had scoped the ledge
C2+
at pitch 9 from the ground, but were disappointed 2 130’
13c
when they climbed up to only a large stance, which C1
they dubbed the Pillar of Despair. The trio summited
after three and half days on the wall. They named the 130’1

route after a H.P. Lovecraft spooky short story. 11b 5.11

or C2 or C1 Photo: xRez.com
 105’
Free Lurking Fear VI 5.13c
7

1-4”
FFA: June 2000 - Tommy Caldwell, Beth Rodden
rappel
6 110’ 13c anchor

12c
5.12 Topout Overview

penji
.3-1.5” rap
slab 13 140’
11c
splitter

100’ 5

5.8 loose
12b 400’ of slabs
.3-2”
NO
12b
thin
130’ 4 12 95’ 19
3-4.5” rap route:170’ fixed ropes 5.6
to 10 on easy slabs
12a
5.10 good
C2+ 12c/d bivy
hooks - aid line 120’ 19
10b p p
p
130’ 3
100’ 11 160’ to ledge 5.3

2-3.5” 5.9 .4-2.5”

5.11
Window Pane
Flake p Grand Traverse
p 13a West 90’ 18 NO
Buttress steep NO
C2+ 5.12 crack on
190’ 10 110’ left wall 10b
12d
130’ 80’ to ledge
5.9
camhook
Thanksgiving
105’ 2 Ledge 17
Lost amazing bivy
World Girdle Traverse 90’ cave move belay
1.5” 5.11 170’ 17
bivy for 2
13c Motel Zed 5.7
110’ rappel route
9
10a 60m ropes
Pillar of mandatory
3.5”
Despair
190’ 5.10
grassy
steep 5”
1 130’ 11d ow
.6-3”
12c 16 140’
5.9 fun Rack:
3” Nuts: 1 ea micro, regular
.5-3” 180’
original
route 130’
Cams: 2 - 3 ea .3”-1” 10b
11b 5.11 8
or C1 2 ea 1.25”-4”
10d ow 1 ea 5” (only for short section
edge of 3.5-4.5” for 80’ on pitch 17)
drainage SW Face
with water Offset Cams: 1 ea
in spring 5.6
10d 135’ 15

10c
sweet bivy 7
.3-3” p
160’
Approach Overview p
NO
Peter 5.6
Pan 14 130’
edge of Lurking good bivy
Lost for 2
SW Face Fear World
West Octopussy 5”
Buttress
NO
Hole Aquarian 5.7
World fun

11a awk
“Ned’s
Mantel”
5.6 5.11 R
grass slab
13

left edge of
3rd Class Wings of
Steel slab

76 | El Capitan
 135’ 19
FFA History: Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden made 5.3
the first free ascent in 2000. This was Tommy’s first FFA 95’ 18
(First Free Ascent) on El Cap. It was cool being in the 10b
Valley when they were working the climb - Dean Potter Thanksgiving
11d ow 90’
17
17

went up with them and helped them fix ropes and Ledge
140’ 16
taught them some bigwall tricks. During that summer,
as a break from working the route, Tommy and I 10b
onsighted The Shield in daylight - so even when he was Rappel
cutting his teeth on El Cap Tommy was already blazing 140’ 15 Route
fast!
10c
Rappel
Route
ledge 14130’
5.7
10d
13 140’
Ned’s
Mantel 5.3
12b(short)
95’ 12 5.12+
C2
100’ 11 The
Grand Traverse
13a (West Buttress)
110’ 10
5.12
The Ledge
110’ 9 5.9
5.9 The Pillar of Despair
fist
130’ 8
10d
fist
105’ 7
13c
110’ 6 5.12
12c

100’ 5
12b

130’ 4
12a

3 130’

12d
2 105’
13c

1 130’
11b 5.11
Photo: xRez.com or C2 or C1
77
 Lost World VI 5.7 A3
FA: April 1975 - Cal Folsom, Dave Anderson, Mike Warburton

Squeeze Play variation 5.7 A3

FA: April 1982 - Mike Corbett, Gary Edmondson, Rich Albuschkat

14 140’
Topout Overview

C1 5.3
glory
A1
120’ 8
5.8 loose
2’ x2’ 70’ 8 or C2
ledge
“Test Your Mettle” A2
awk NO
Triangle
Roof 12b or C1
A3 KBs thin
C2 13 95’
wild!
A2 120’ 7

5.10 or easy slabs, 5.6

120’ 7
fix rope and jug with haulbag
C2 hook var. 20
“The Holy A2 beaks C2+
Grail” hooks thin .3-2.5” C1
A3 p p 130’ 20
C1 beauty! beaks p

110’ 12
90’ 6 5.3 cool
2’x2’ ledge 120’ 6
.4-2.5”
C1
C2 hooks p Grand Traverse
.3-7”
A2 beaks p C2+ 11 West NO
Buttress 110’ 19
100’
steep 4” NO
110’ 5 crack on 5.10
left wall or C1
belay takes A2 A2 thin
1-3” 5.9
5 belay takes .3-1”
1-3” bivy ledge Girdle Traverse or C1
130’
OK for 2 Thanksgiving Ledge
Squeeze Play amazing bivy
18 60’
(recommended) 120’
8” move Motel 10
110’ easy walking
C2 Lurking Zed 18
.3-1” Fear rappel route
10a 5.7
A2 Pillar of or C1 10”poor
x 1.5’ ledge
bivy
60m ropes
3.5” mandatory
Despair for 2 C1
5.10
4 120’ or C1
C2 The
Lurking Anus grassy
steep 4.5”
Fear C2 11d ow
or C1
7”
17 145’
C2
Rack:
9 Beaks: 3 ea #1-#3 C2 awk 180’
3 KBs: 2 long, 1 short 10b
two 55m raps 3 90’ or C1
to the ground 5 LAs: 1 ea. #1-#5 9 150’
4 Sawed Angles: 1 ea 1/2”-1”
Nuts: 1 ea
Cams: 3 ea .3”-4” C2
2 110’ 2 ea. 5”, 7” 5.6
C3 upside down 135’ 16
camhooks or A3 KBs, LAs
4 Heads: 1 ea #2, #4
Lurking A2 arrow/beaks 2 ea #3 10c
Fear or
Hooks: 2 ea C1 A2 C2
C1 .3-3” p
p 160’

8 5.6 NO
8 140’ belay takes
15
.75-1.75”
good bivy
5.7 5.6 for 2
Collections of plutons that are related to each
150’ 1 5”
other are called “intrusive suites”.The rocks of
5.7 El Capitan are dominantly of the intrusive suite NO

5.10 or of Yosemite Valley. Individual intrusive suites are 5.7

A2 often interpreted to be the roots of large silicic fun
(explosive) volcanoes such as Mt. Rainier or Mt. 11a
or C2 awk
5.8 splitter St. Helens. While climbing in Yosemite, it’s fun to 5.2 ramp
imagine you are climbing through the plumbing “Ned’s
Mantel” 5.9+ C1 move
of volcanoes that were erupting when dinosaurs (not recommended) slab 14
walked the earth.

78 | El Capitan
 Lost World and Squeeze Play are super 20 130’
fun, moderate climbs. The cracks are clean 5.3
and beautiful, and the aid climbing is 110’ 19
10b or C1
never too tricky. The second half of the
route, the Lurking Fear portion, is cruiser 11d ow 110’ 18 18
Thanksgiving
easy free climbing/french-free climbing. or C1 Ledge
The ledges just get better and better on 17 145’

the second half of the route. Squeeze Play, 10b

slightly more classic, is the same difficulty or C1
as Zodiac but feels easier because it is
lower-angled. This is a logical next step 16 135’
10c
after climbing The Prow; or if you climbed
or C2
Zodiac and The Shield but still are not
excited about aid climbing A4, this is the 140’ 15 nice ledge
perfect route. 5.7
10d or C2
14 140’
Plan: Hike up light to dial the approach,
and fix a few pitches. Most parties spend 5.3
12b or C1
three nights on the wall. Don’t worry if the 13 95’

lower part goes a little slow. Once you hit 5.12+

C2 12
Lurking Fear you will climb faster. 110’
Lurking 100’ The
Fear C2+ 11 Grand Traverse
The Elements/Retreat: Squeeze Play is in A2 (West Buttress)
(joins)
the sun from 11 am to 5pm (slightly more
or less depending on the season). These 10 120’
routes follow long cracks that turn into icy Motel Zed
rivers in a storm. Climb Prepared! To C2 The Anus
retreat, rappel the route. 150’ 9
C2
FA History: Cal Folsom, Dave Anderson
and Mike Warburton made the first ascent
120’ 870’ The
of Lost World in 1975. Mike Corbett, Gary 8

A3 A2 Triangle Roof
Edmondson, and Rich Albuschkat added 120’ 7 7 120’

the Squeeze Play variation in 1982. A2 A3

The
Holy 6 120’
West Grail 90’
6

Face C2 A2
5 130’
110’ 5
C2
Lost World
A2
Squeeze 4 120’
Play
C2

3 90’
C3
2 110’
Lurking A2
Fear
150’ 1
Photo: xRez.com 5.10 or A2 79
 West Buttress VI 5.9 A3 or 5.13c
FA: May 1963 - Layton Kor, Steve Roper
Rack: FFA: Tommy Caldwell
9 Beaks: 3 ea #1-#3
3 LAs: 1 ea #2 - #4 Topout Overview
4 Sawed Angles: 1 ea 1/2”-1” slab 15 140’ 400’ of slabs
Nuts: 1ea
Cams: 3 ea .3”-3” 5.3
glory
2 ea 4”, 5”, 8”
Offset Cams: 1-2 ea fixed ropes 5.6
on easy slabs
5.8 loose
Hooks: 1 ea or C2 good
Camhooks bivy
NO 120’ 21
115’ (35m) Lower-out line 12b or C1
thin
14 95’
5.3 cool
135’ 6 5.10 or
C2 hook var.
C2+
grassy hooks thin .3-3” C1
11b or
C1 p p or 12d 110’ 20
p
steep NO NO
1.5-7” Hole crack on
110’ 13 World left wall 5.10 4”
C1 or
11d Grand Traverse or C1
5.9
5.8 13b or A3 or C1
C2
125’ 5 Thanksgiving Ledge 50’
95’ 12 100’ 11 19
amazing bivy
6” Girdle Traverse 90’ cave easy walking
5.10 ow C2+ loose 19
or C1 Lurking 90’ rappel route
Fear 5.7 60m ropes
A3 beaks mandatory
or 13c

bivy ledge
10c The Hole C2
or C1 Lost grassy
Motel Zed World World steep 5”
11d ow
120’ 4 10 100’ or C1
steep 18 145’
C1 sloping gold
ledge 12c
headwall or
.4-5” C2
180’
10b
11a or C1
or
12c C1
C1

5.6 lb
5.6
145’ 3
70’ 9
135’ 17
C1
flake 10c
or
C2
A3 .3-3” p
beaks 160’
p
13c
.5-4” 11c 5.6 NO
free mud
var. C1
A2 16 140’
hard penji good bivy
C2 5.6 for 2
160’ 2 165’ 8 5”
steep! NO
C2
5.8 lb 5.7
Jungle 5.9
“Gold Peter fun
Chimney 11a
Ribbon Pan
Pitch” or C2 awk
5.2 ramp
“Ned’s
10c .5-6” Mantel”5.11 R
or C1 (not recommended) slab
12a 15

Lurking 4“ or C2
Fear 1 110’
5.7
Lost 5.11
World stay C2
Peter left
Pan West Buttress was the 4th route established
5.9 7 145’
5.6 on El Cap. Kor started up the line with a different
5.8 difficult to aid
5.6 partner who balked at the difficulties causing
ow
Kor to enlist Roper.
nice .3-7”
ledge
12c ow
or C1

80 | El Capitan
 21
120’
5.3
110’ 20
10b or C1 Thanksgiving
11d ow
110’ 19 19 Ledge West Buttress is a cool, moderate adventure. Sure, it
or C1
follows a bunch of sometimes wide cracks, but with
145’18
modern cams they are super cruiser C1/C2 fun (the first
ascensionists used only pitons!) There are couple thin
10b or C1 pitches to keep it interesting. The short headwall and wild
135’ 17 Grand Traverse give this route more of an El Capitan feel
10c than nearby Lurking Fear, which never gets these sweep-
or C2 ing, steep views. Lurking Fear actually joins West Buttress
140’ 16 for its final eight pitches.
5.7 Reports that there is mandatory free climbing on West
10d or C2
140’ 15 Buttress as hard or harder than on the Salathé Wall are
5.3 not true - I only climb 5.8/5.9 and l aided or french-freed
12b or C1 every pitch. You have to do one short mandatory free
1495’ section - way way easier than Salathé. Climb West
5.12+
C2 The Buttress for your fifth to tenth El Cap route and you will
110’ 13 11d or C2
95’ Grand be psyched - sure, it might be a little wide for your first
12
11 100’
Traverse couple routes, but once you’ve caught the bug, and
13b or A3 don’t want to break into the harder aid of A4, this route
13c or A3 will be perfect.
10 100’

12b West Buttress is easier than North America or Dihedral

or C2
9 70’ Wall, but harder than Lurking Fear; it is similar in overall
C2 11c difficulty to Zodiac - Zodiac has more little aid cruxes but
The Jungle 1
165’ 8
West Buttress has more pitches, and a longer approach
Chimney and descent.
12a
or C2 Plan: Hike up light to dial the approach, and fix a couple
145’ 7
pitches. Pitch three is slow/more difficult by a bit than the
12c
or C1 rest of the route, so it is nice to fix through pitch 3. Most
Lurking
135’ 6 parties spend three to five days on the wall.
Fear 11b
or C1 The Elements/Retreat: West Buttress gets sun late
125’ 5 morning to an hour or so before sunset. It is a bad route
10c
to do in a storm, as it’s long cracks quickly turn into rivers
or C1
120’ 4 during rain. Climb prepared! To retreat, rappel the route.
C1
12c West Buttress FA History: From the Southside Drive, across the Valley,
it’s easy to see why West Buttress was the fourth route
145’ 3
established on El Cap. The visible cracks go bottom to
13c A3 top! Layton Kor and Steve Roper made the first ascent
160’ 2 during a stormy spring in 1963. Modern climbers shudder
at the thought of climbing the route’s wide cracks with no
cams - this route eats up cams but the pioneers only had
10c or C1 pitons and chocks. Epic!
1 110’
5.6
5.9

Photo: Mark Hudon

81
 Free West Buttress VI 5.13c
FFA: June 2003 - Tommy Caldwell

Rack:
Nuts slab Topout Overview
15 140’ 400’ of slabs
Cams: 2 ea .4-4”
1 ea 7” 5.3
Offset Cams: 1 ea
fixed ropes 5.6
on easy slabs
80’ Lower-out Line 5.8 loose
good
bivy
NO 120’ 21
12b
thin
14 95’
5.3
135’ 6 5.10
aid 12c/d
grassy line
11b NO
p p 110’ 20
p
steep10a 4” NO
Hole crack on 5.10
1.5-7” 110’ 13 World left wall
11d Grand Traverse
5.9
5.8 13b
125’ 5 Thanksgiving Ledge 80’
95’ 12 19
100’ 11 amazing bivy
Girdle Traverse 90’ cave easy walking
6” 19
5.10 ow Lurking 90’ Rappel route
Fear 13c 5.7 60m ropes
mandatory

bivy ledge
10c The Hole 10 120’
Lost World grassy
Motel Zed World steep 4.5”
11d ow
120’ 4
steep
C1 sloping gold 18 140’
ledge headwall 12c
.4-4.5” 180’
10b

12c

5.6
145’ 3
70’ 9
120’ 17

flake 10c

A3 .3-3” p
beaks 160’
p
13c 11c 5.6 NO
mud

A2 16 100’
good bivy
for 2
160’ 2 165’ 8 5”
NO
steep!

Jungle 5.7
Peter 5.9 fun
“Gold Chimney
Ribbon Pan 11a awk
Pitch” “Ned’s
Mantel”
10c lb .5-6” 5.11 R
slab
12a 15

Lurking 4“
Fear 1 110’
5.7
Lost 5.11
World Peter
Pan
5.9 7 145’
5.6
5.6 5.8
ow

nice .3-7”
ledge
12c ow

82 | El Capitan
 21
120’
5.3
110’ 20
10b Thanksgiving
11d ow Ledge
110’ 19 19
145’18

10b
135’ 17
10c

140’ 16
5.7
10d
140’ 15
5.3
12b
95’
14
5.12+
110’ 13 11d The
95’ Grand
12
11 100’ Traverse
13b 13c
10100’
12b FFA History: In the late 90s Steve Schneider made a
solid attempt to free the route, and replaced all the
970’ bolts along the way - Thanks Steve! He was unsuccessful
11c mud though, and later Matt Wilder (first free ascent of South
The Jungle 165’
8

Face of Washington Column) unlocked the crucial 5.13

Chimney
12a sequences, but was ultimately unable to free climb the
whole route in one go. Tommy Caldwell completed the
145’ 7 first free ascent in 2003. Tommy didn’t think the route
12c
was that classic, but he had to battle muddy offwidths
Lurking with free shoes while the rest of us just walk C1 cams up
Fear 135’ 6
11b clean, nearby cracks ;)
125’ 5
10c
120’ 4
12c West Buttress
145’ 3

13c
160’ 2

10c lb
1 110’
5.6
5.9

Photo: Mark Hudon

83
 Octopussy VI 5.9 A3
FA: March 1988 - Dan & Sue McDevitt

12 130’
Winds
of Change Never
Topout Overview .3-3”
5.8 Never
or Land
C1

400’
A2 beaks of slabs
thin nuts
steep
groove
11 125’
fixed ropes 5.6
A2 beaks on easy slabs
rivets added and .3-2”
during FA of good
Winds of Change bivy
A2+ 120’ 19
heads A2 beaks
10 105’
19 C2
5.3 cool
A2+ heads

120’ 6
p 5.9 or
A2 C2 9 125’
p NO
90’ 18
C2 5.4 mantel
steep 4” NO
Orange crack on 5.10
A3 “The Orange or C1
Crush thin Peel” left wall
C2
5.9
or C1
A2
C2 loose 190’ beaks, then Thanksgiving Ledge
17 165’ 130’
.4-2” 17
Lurking
5 160’ Fear cave 5.6
A2+ A3+
1-6” loose
C2 awk
C2
cool Octopus Head A3 beaks, blade
8 130’ 90’
A3 head 16 125’
A2 hooks
150’ to ledge A2
or 5.9+ hand A2 hooks A3
traverse 4 130’ heads,
beaks
110’
C2 Hole A3
C2 loose
World
A2+ 7 110’ 15 50’ ramp
loose ledge for 1 4th Never
Winds of Never Land
C1 180’ 15
hooks
Change
12’x3’ ledge A2
good bivy 3 120’ A2 beaks angles, cams
for 4 Pinnacle of 5.7 Octopussy finishes on
6 A3 Never Never Land or
8-10” Hammerdom or C1
5.9+ ow Hole World
many
5.8
squeeze 5.10 or
Rack: .4-5”
Peter 11 Beaks: 2 ea #1
C2 loose
Pan
4 ea #2
5.9 ow C2
5 ea #3
4-6”
West 8 LAs: 2 ea #1-#4 14 195’
Buttress 5.3 2 80’ 2 Angles: 1 ea 1/2”, 5/8” Long Ledge
5.8 Nuts: 2 ea micro, 1 ea regular 12” x 10’
Lurking 4th
Fear class Cams: 3-4 ea .3”-1.75”
5.6 2 ea 2”-5”
5.7 170’
5.9 1
Aquarian 1 ea 8”
Wall
10 Heads: 3 ea #1-#3
5.7 1 ea #4 A2 arrows
4”
Hooks: 2 ea 13 100’
10-15 Rivet Hangers
200’ A2 or C3

4-7”
C1

12
Octopussy is one of only two Yosemite bigwall FAs to have the
4th
class second ascent made by the first ascent team. Royal Robbins Never Never
getting the second ascent of the Salathe Wall is the other. Land

84 | El Capitan
 19
120’
5.3
110’ 18
10b or C1
180’ 17
17 165’
Thanksgiving Ledge
A2+

125’ 16 Never Never

A2
Hole World Land
50’ 15
5.0
15 180’ Octopussy is a moderate Yosemite wanderer. It starts off
Pinnacle of
5.7 the classic free climb and ledge Peter Pan (scene of the El
Hammerdom
Cap Wedding), then follows thin features to the route’s
C2 namesake octopus head feature. Beautiful thin splitter
Long Ledge 14195’ cracks are interspersed with more riveted pitches, and
some wild traversing. Octopussy is slightly less classic
A2 than Never Never Land because you don’t get to go to
100’
13
the iconic Timbuktu Tower, and the climbing is little less
A2 or
C3 natural. Plus you have to carry all your stuff up the fourth
12
130’ class approach, instead of being able to haul from lower
A2
joins down on NNL. This is a logical step up from Zodiac or Ten
Never Days After, and is about the same difficulty as Mescalito.
125’ 11
Never Land
A2+ Plan: Hike up light to dial the approach, and fix the first
105’ 10
A2+ three pitches to Peter Pan ledge. The fourth class on the
approach really punishes folks who try to carry too much,
9 125’ so take it easy and make more trips ;) Peter Pan is such a
A2 classic ledge, make sure to spend a night there when you
8 130’
start. Most folks spend 3 to 5 nights on the wall. Don’t
forget the belay seat!
A2
7 110’ The Elements/Retreat: Octopussy gets sun late morning
Lurking 120’ 6 A3 to an hour or so before sunset. This is a bad route to do in
Fear A3 a storm as its long cracks quickly turn into rivers during
160’ 5 rain. Climb prepared! To retreat rappel the route, some
The Octopus
A3
penjis required.
130’ 4
A2+ FA History: Bruce Hawkins started this route in 1977, but
bailed after 600 feet because of how much drilling would
3 120’ be required - instead he established nearby Never Never
C2 Land. In March 1988, Yosemite local rockclimbing guides
Peter Pan
2 80’
Dan and Sue McDevitt continued where Hawkins left off,
5.8 completing the route over five days. In the early 90s, Dan
1 170’
got the second ascent of the route when he guided a
5.7
client up El Capitan!

Dan McDevitt is one of the most respected, and mild

mannered Yosemite pioneers - kind of like Tom Frost,
he’s just stoked to Climb. As I came to know Dan more
through making the free climbing guidebook, which
includes dozens of Dan’s incredible routes, I was so
happy to have replaced the bolts on Octopussy, restoring
it to the same bomber bolt quality as Dan provides on all
his free routes.

Photo: Mark Hudon

85
 Never Never Land VI 5.7 A3
FA: June 1978 - Bruce Hawkins, Mark Chapman

14 195’
Topout Overview
Long Ledge 6” x 10’
fixed ropes 5.6
on easy slabs

120’ 20 good
bivy
A2 arrows
13 100’
5.3 cool

C3 or A2
7 180’

Timbuktu
4-7” grass NO 5.8
C2 95’ 19 20 Tower
steep 4” NO plush bivy
12 180’ crack on 5.10 for 3
left wall or C1
small cams 5.9 or C1
C2 5.9 1-3”
grass or C1 Thanksgiving Ledge
18 120’
18 200’
4-6”
cave 5.6
C2+
bad bolts
A2+ C2+ 6 130’
Lurking
A2 Fear
A2
or C3 100’ 17

130’ 11 4.5”
A2
hooks A2+ C1+
move
left C2+ slime
16 110’
Hole
World A2+ 5.9 or
50’ ramp C2 grass
3.5” missing 5 130’
ledge for 4th bolt
one stance
C1 barnacles
180’ 15 hooks 5.6
180’ fixed heads,
10 p Pinnacle of 5.7 C2 few
cams
small
C2+
Hammerdom or C1 Never Never Land starts
cool many on the first 7 pitches 4 130’
stance steep! .4-5” of Aquarian Wall

C1 C2+ or A2
backclean C2
p

14 195’
C2
3 130’ 6” piece
few .5-1”
130’ 9 Great or C3
Slab

C3+ hooks

5.10 fist
or C1 C2
Rack: 3-4” 8 155’ sawed offs
9 Beaks: 3 ea #1-#3 A2 or C3 5.6 2 140’
4 LAs: 2 ea #2, #3 3”
2 Angles: 1 ea 1/2”, 5/8” 180’
3 Sawed Angles: 1 ea 1/2”-3/4” C1+
thin 160’ 1
5.6
Nuts: 2 ea micro, 1 ea regular 5.7
Cams: 3 ea .3”-1.25” C2
2 ea 1.5”-5” or
A1 Arrows Lurking Fear
Aquarian 500’
1 ea 8” Wall
Offset Cams: 2 ea 5.8
7
6 Heads: 2 ea #2-#4 180’ to ground
Timbuktu
Hooks: 1 ea (inc. pointed) Tower
Camhooks 5.2
10 Rivet Hangers
dropoff Dihedral
Wall 600’

86 | El Capitan
 20
120’
5.3
110’ 19 Never Never Land (which technically starts after the first
10b or C1 seven pitches of the Aquarian Wall) is one of the most classic
200’ 18 routes on the Southwest Face. Initial mellow slab pitches lead
18 120’

Thanksgiving Ledge to one of El Cap’s finest ledges, Timbuktu Tower. Above

A2 17 Timbuktu, the route steepens, and the cracks become thin,
100’ perfect splitters. The cruxes are a few thin piton placements.
A2+
16110’
Other guidebooks which suggest this route will soon go clean
A2+ are so far incorrect. This is a mellow nailing route, but definite-
180’
ly has several pitches that require a few piton placements in a
Pinnacle of Hammerdom 15

row. Never Never Land is a logical step up from Zodiac or Ten

5.7
Days After; it is about the same difficulty as Electric Ladyland,
C2 and is similar to Magic Mushroom. If you are unsure about
Long Ledge 14 195’ taking on this route, nearby Squeeze Play has a few similar
pitches but is a step down in difficulty because it finishes on
A2
the easier second half of Lurking Fear.
100’ 13
C3 or Plan: The lead bolts on pitches 3 - 6 are very far apart. If you
A2 are less than 5’ 10” (1.77 meters) bring extended rivet hangers
180’ 12
and a long stiffened quickdraw. Hike up light to dial the
C3 or
A2 approach, and fix a couple pitches. From the pitch 2 anchor
you can fix straight to the ground via an intermediate anchor.
Aquarian

130’ 11
Then you can haul from the left (west) edge of the Great Slab
C2+ that you walked along at the base, without having to drag
your haul bags up the fourth class approach. Most teams find
180’ 10 it difficult to reach Timbuktu the first day if they did not
pre-haul to pitch 2. Most parties spend 3 to 5 nights on the
C2+
wall. If you spend an extra night on Timbuktu you will live
130’ 9
C3+ longer and smile more. Lots of hanging belays on this route,
155’ 8 so bring a belay seat.
A1
7 180’ The Elements/Retreat: NNL gets sun late morning to an hour
Lurking Timbuktu Tower or so before sunset. This is a bad route to do in a storm. Its
5.9
Fear long cracks quickly turn into rivers during rain. Climb
C2+
6
130’ prepared! There is a rappel route that trends slightly west (or
C2 skier’s right) but generally straight down from Timbuktu.
130’ 5

C2
130’ 4 FA/FFA History: Bruce Hawkins and Mark Chapman made the
first ascent in May 1978. Hawkins initially attempted this route
130’ 3
C2
from the top of the nearby free route Peter Pan, hence the
Peter name. He stopped when he realized how many bolts he
Pan C2 would have to drill, opting instead to climb the first third of
2 140’

160’ 1 A2 or C3 Aquarian Wall to Timbuktu Tower, then continue

5.7 independently from there. Dan and Sue McDevitt later
finished the route that Hawkins started, calling it Octopussy -
also a classic route, but climb NNL first ;)

There was a lot of snow on the summit in 1978, and Chapman

and Hawkins got the brunt of it. “Our first bivy on Timbuktu
Towers might as well have been in a storm as there was so
much water pouring down the wall from the spring runoff,”
recalls Chapman. The pair found the route straightforward
and manageable. “Your basic 5.9 A4 route - not too difficult,
aside from icicles forming on a portaledges at night.” Under-
scoring the skill of Yosemite’s pioneers, only five bivies were
Photo: Mark Hudon required for the first ascent.
 Horse Chute VI 5.8 A3
FA: October 1974 - Charlie Porter, Hugh Burton

Horseplay Variation A3
FA: 1984 - Steve Grossman, Sue Harrington
9
150’ 400’ of slabs
A2 5.8 Rack:
or C3 8 Beaks: 2 ea #1 5.6
3 ea #2, #3
C2 good
5.9
6 LAs: 2 ea #2-#4 bivy
4 Angles: 2 ea 1/2”, 5/8” 130’ 22
3 Sawed Angles: 1 ea 5.8”-1”
100’ 8
cool (uneven) ledge Nuts: 1-2 ea
5.7 Cams: 3 ea .4”-4” 5.3 cool
1 ea 5”,7”
Offset Cams: 2 ea
C2 6 Heads: 2 ea #2-#4
7 130’
Hooks 100’ 21
NO
Camhooks steep 4” NO
crack on 5.10 Lurking Fear Finish
10 Rivet Hangers left wall or C1
5.9

A3
Horse Play Addl. Rack: cave
or
C1 20 move belay/shuttle gear
10 Heads Thanksgiving Ledge
6 100’
.
Triangle Lurking Fear
rappel route
Roof
A2 30’ 15
or C4 Dihedral sloping ledge
C2 Wall 5.9 500’toLurkingFearfinish
Truck Stop orC1
10’x4’ GirdleTraverse Thanksgiving
6”
120’ 5 Ledge
14 150’ C20 160’

A3 P20 4th class 5.8mantel

loose, Aquarian A1
C2+ grassy
or
12d A2 .5-4”
A2 5.7gully
120’ 4
160’ 13 5.9 ow
3x50m
raps to ground P19 40’ 160’ C19 belay takes 2-3’
.4-3”
A1
C2 5.10squeeze var.
A2 P18
C2+
or Black
12b Hero(in)
Corner A2+ Cave .5-4”
A1 5.7chimney
130’ 3
140’ C18

120’ 12
.3-1” 5.8
gold
splitter
P17 A2 Dihedral
C2+
or A3+ 120’ C17 Wall
12b
A3
2 120’ A2
12c
or 130’ 11 A2 wild
C2 Frog Spawn or
4-6” Arch &
C3 steep
.3-1” C1
The 170’ 1
mud P16
Great 130’ C16
Slab
130’ 10

12c or C2+
C2+ A3 or
C2 5.10
grass to The Ledge
.4-2” on Dihedral Horse 15
9 Play Horse
3rd Chute
5.3
Fun!
Delectable
Pinnacle

600 yards to
Aquarian Wall 400’ to La Escuela

88 | El Capitan
 120’ 22
5.3
110’ 21
10b or C1
20
Lurking 1000’
Fear Dihedral
Wall

Thanksgiving
Ledge 20 160’
5.8

19160’
Horse
Play 5.7
C2
18 140’
Horse Chute is a classic, moderate Southwest A2
Face route. The climbing is steep but not epic, 17 120’ Dihedral

A2 Wall
and the two-pitch splitter Hero Corner in the
middle of the route is one of the more beauti- 16 130’

ful dihedrals on El Cap. There is also some grass C2+ Horse

Chute
and wild traversing which keeps this route
30’ 15
interesting even when the pitches are rated 5.9 Truck
14 150’
easy. Slightly harder than Zodiac because of its Stop
A3 Ledge
longer and occasionally dirty climbing, this
route is like a lengthier Squeeze Play. Climb
Horse Chute after you climb the more classic 13 160’
Shield, Squeeze Play, and Never Never Land.
A2
Plan: Hike up light to dial the approach, and fix glory
a couple pitches. This is not a good route in the 12 120’ splitter
early spring season, as the cracks will likely be
A3
seeping wet. Most parties spend four or five 130’ 11
nights on the wall. Bring the belay seat! C1
10 130’
The Elements/Retreat: Horse Chute gets sun C2 9 150’
late morning to an hour or so before sunset. A2 or
HC is a bad route to do in a storm as its long C3 8
100’
cracks quickly turn into rivers during rain.
C2
Climb prepared! To retreat, rappel the route. 7130’

FA History: Charlie Porter and Hugh Burton A3

100’ 6 Dihedral
did the first ascent in 1974. They had each A2 Wall
established El Cap routes before, so were solid 5
120’
at this kind of climbing. Werner Braun, lifelong C2+ or
Valley local and Search and Rescue hero, 12d
4 120’
recalled giving them a ride from Camp 4 the C2+ or
day they blasted. “It was raining out, and I was 12b
3 130’
like ‘Really, you want a ride down there now?
C2+ or
When we got to the meadow, Porter pulled out 12b
a pair of jeans that he intended to wear on the 2 120’

route. Giving me a smile he said ‘See? I got my C2 or

special bigwall climbing pants.’ I dropped them 12c
1 170’

off thinking there was no way they were going

C2+ or
up, but sure enough the next afternoon when 12b
the rain broke and I drove down to the
meadow to check on them, they were already
way up the wall.”

FA History continues on the next page

Photo: Mark Hudon 89
 More Horse Chute FA History: The team
had scoped the splitter corner from the
ground, and were not disappointed. “That
corner is really classic and overhangs in
both directions. From the ground, it was
obviously one of the cool places to climb
on El Cap,” said Burton.

The duo climbed the route incredibly

efficiently, summiting after only three
bivies - that’s faster than most parties do it
today, with all our modern equipment.

Shortly after climbing Horse Chute, Burton

quit bigwall climbing. “Walls ran their
course for me partially because chiselling
hooks and copperheads became popular.
We thought that killed the whole spirit
when people just carved a placement for a
piece of metal.”

The practice of drilling hooks and

chiselling is popular because a route’s
quality is often evaluated by how few bolts
were used on the first ascent - the ‘hole
count’. Drilled hooks and chiselled
copperheads are not included in the hole
count. Royal Robbins started this
unfortunate practice when he climbed
Tis-sa-ack on Half Dome, and said that a
hundred-bolt hole count is too many for
most climbs, but that Tis-sa-ack was, “A
route worth bolting for.” After that,
climbers started trying to do routes with
less than a hundred holes, even if it meant
drilling hooks and chiselling heads. That’s
some bad history right there!

90 Royal Robbins and Tom Frost in The Black Cave, on the FA of The North America Wall (p. 218). Photo courtesy of Tom Frost
Erik Sloan and Timmy Tharp heading into the Octopus Head.
Octopussy, El Capitan (p. 84). Photo: Tom Evans
 SOUTHWEST FACE
5,7a
6-9 24 21
11,14 10 13,15 12,16 20 23
18a 17ab,18 17,19 25-27
4,22
2,3

18a 24
17
19

1
12
22a

18 17ab

21
17b
9,14
11 10
4
6 17a
27

22

24 26
20
22a 18 13 25
23
15
14
5 14 17
12 21

24

13 15 23
22 18
4 18a
11
15a

21
10

7a 8 25
6
11,18
9 24
7 13
3
15
17,23 12

1 2 20
10

19
7a,22 21
15

1) Aquarian Wall
4
2) Horse Chute
3) Dihedral Wall 7a
12
4) Bermuda Dunes 20
7
5) Golden Gate
6) Pacemaker 24
7) Heart Route 15
7a) Free Heart Route 15a,18 25
26
8) Verano Magico* 12
9) Son of Heart
10) Jolly Roger 2,3 16
15
11) Sunkist 18a) Free Magic Mush.
12) Quo Vadis 19) Skylab variation* 20
22
13) Flight of the Albatross 20) Mediterraneo
14) El Corazon 21) Ephemeron 4,7 27
15) The Shield 22) Salathé Wall 18
15a) Dorn Direct 22a) Freerider 10
16) False Shield* 23) Triple Direct
17) Muir Wall 24) The Direct
15a
17a) Premuir 25) Grape Race 12
25
17b) The Shaft 26) The Nose 24
17,18a
18) Magic Mushroom 27) The Real Nose 4,5,18
20,22,23 21

92 Photo: xRez.com
Babsi Zangerl on The Shaft, 5.13 (p.124). Photo: Jacopo Larcher 93
 Dihedral Wall VI 5.8 A2 or C3F or 5.14a
lower or 5.6 downclimb FA: November 1962 - Ed Cooper, Jim Baldwin, Glen Denny
160’ 9

The Ledge
good bivy for 1 5.9 or
C2
30’ of
belay takes 4th class
90’ 17 1-3”
160’ 25

5.9 5.10 squeeze

or
C1 .4-4”
13d C3
var. grass
8 130’ 5.10 or C1+
Free 5.9 or
Belay C1
130’ 16

C3 24 160’
Black Arch 5.10
.4-2.5” or C1
13d .4-4.5”
or
C2
7 140’ C2F
fixed 12b
heads 5.12 or C1
Free
Belay

4th
13b or
C3F or A2
15 110’

C3 23 160’
C2+
or The last four pitches
6 110’ .4-1.5” 13c are dirty and slow
Triangle
Roof 11c
Horse or C1
Chute 110’ 14
14a
C2+ 22 140’
C3F
120’ or 13c
5 C1
C2 slime 5.10 chimney var.
or 12d 600’ to Lurking Fear finish

.3-4” 5.8 Thanksgiving

120’ 13 Girdle
21 Ledge 21 160’ Traverse
C2+ 100’
or .4-4”
12d 5.8 mantel
C2+ or grass
12d ow no
120’ 4
Aquarian
3 ropes p 80’ 12
to ground p 60m to 9 .5-4”
p .4-3” 5.7 gully
.4-3” The Flake
C2+
or
C2+
or 13b
Rack: 160’ 20
belay takes
2-3”
12b 3 Beaks: 1 ea
C2
120’ 11 4 LAs: 1 ea #1-#4 or 5.10 squeeze var.
130’
5.10
3
4 Sawed Angles: 1 ea 1/2”-1”
C2 Black
or 13b Nuts: 2 ea
.3-1” Cave .5-4”
.5-4.5” Cams: 1 ea .3” 5.7 chimney
120’ 19
C2+ 2-3 ea .4”-4” Horse
or 120’ Chute
12b
10
1 ea 5”
C3F Offset Cams: 2-3 ea C1
2 120’ or 13c 5.9 .5-4.5”
5 Heads Squeeze
12c .5-3”
or Hooks: 2 ea 140’ 18
C2
9 Camhooks 5.10
squeeze .75-4”
.3-1” 10 Rivet Hangers or C1+ bad hauling
The 170’ 1 flare
Great 5.9
Slab splitter
17

11b or
C2+

.4-2”
This was the third route put up on El Capitan and the last to use
3rd
over 1000' of fixed lines. It was also the first wall in Yosemite
5.3
fun! to be soloed by a woman: Bev Johnson. Her ascent was in
Delectable October 1978 and took 10 days.
Pinnacle

600 yards to
Aquarian Wall 400’ to La Escuela

94 | El Capitan
 25
160’
5.10 or C1
24
160’
Dihedral Wall, while not classic climbing, is natural and moderate.
5.12 or C1
23
160’ It climbs a striking corner system from bottom to top. Climbing
11c or C1 this route is touching a piece of 1962 history - getting up El Cap
to Lurking Fear 140’
22 following one of the longer continuous crack systems. (Horse
5.10 or C1 Chute, which starts on the first five pitches of Dihedral, has more
100’ 21 21 160’
classic climbing). No pitches stand out as super splitter/notewor-
Thanksgiving 5.8 thy, but the experience of climbing this historic route is awesome.
Ledge
20 160’ The free climbing at the top is fun because you move faster than
5.7
you have for several days; but the hauling on the last several low
19 120’ angle pitches is tough. Dihedral Wall has gone clean, but even that
5.10 or C1
relied on fixed gear which may now be missing; most parties still
18 140’ use a few pitons. Dihedral Wall is similar in difficulty to NA Wall or
5.10 or C1+ Zodiac, but is less classic than either of those routes.
90’ 17
5.10 or C1+ Plan: Hike up light to dial the approach, and fix a couple pitches.
16 130’
12b or C2F This is a route with many large piton scars, which require lots of
110’ 15 clean aid tricks to climb clean. Make sure you have Totem cams,
13c or C2+ offset cams, and don’t hesitate to use a beak here or there. Most
110’ 14 parties spend four or five nights on the wall. Bring the belay seat!
13c or C3F
13 120’ The Elements/Retreat: Dihedral gets sun late morning to an hour
12d ow or C2+ or so before sunset. This is not a good route in the early spring
12 80’
13b or C2+ season, as the cracks will likely be seeping or wet. Dihedral is a
11 120’
very bad route to do in a storm. Its long cracks quickly turn into
13b or C2
10 120’
rivers during rain. Climb prepared! To retreat, rappel the route.
13c or C3F FA History: Ed Cooper, Jim Baldwin, and Glen Denny made the
9 160’
Ledge first ascent in 1962. They famously reached Thanksgiving Ledge on
C3 or
13d that day, and were no doubt psyched to be on such a huge ledge
C2 or 8 130’ after a couple thousand feet with only one other small ledge.
13d Dihedral was the third route established on El Cap, and required
140’ 7 42 days of climbing spread over an eight-month period! Glen
A2 or
13b Denny’s amazing photos from their climb look death-defying as
Triangle Roof 6 110’ their equipment was so crude by today’s standards.
C2+ or
120’ 5 14a Baldwin almost didn’t make the summit when he had a bad
C2+ or accident while fixing pitches. The team was 700 feet up, climbing
12d
4 120’ their manila ropes using prusik knots that they slide up the line.
C2+ or
12b
Baldwin’s prusiks suddenly slipped and he rocketed a hundred feet
3 130’
down, saving himself by grabbing the rope. He burned his hands
C2+ or
12b so badly in the fall he had to take a month off from climbing. There
2 120’ was a lot of going up and down the wall, replacing the ropes and
C2 or so on, before this climb was completed. Incredbily, the team used
12c
1 170’ 4,480 feet of rope, placed 100 bolts, and broke six hammers over
C2+ or the eight months it took them to climb the route! The final push
12b took six days, and started at the 1,900 foot level.

Photo: xRez.com 95
 Free Dihedral Wall VI 5.14a
150’ 9 FFA: May 2004 - Tommy Caldwell
The Ledge
good bivy for 1 5.9
30’ of
belay takes 1-3” 4th class
90’ 16
belay needs new bolts 160’ 27
5.10 squeeze

.4-4”
13d C3 grass
aid belay 5.10
130’ 8
5.9 squeeze
130’ 15

26 160’
Black Arch 5.11 grass
.4-2.5”

13d .4-4.5”
aid belay
fixed 12b
5.11
heads
7 140’

13b
14 110’
13c
25 160’

6 130’ .4-1.5” The last four pitches

Triangle are dirty and slow
Roof 11c

Horse 110’ 13
Chute 14a
24 140’
13c
ledge 600’ to Lurking Fear finish
120’ 5
12d slime (one, thirty meter pitch of 10a, chimney
and a pitch of 5.3).
.3-4”
5.8 Thanksgiving
140’ 12 Girdle
23 Ledge 20 160’ Traverse
100’
12d .4-4”
5.8 mantel
grass/slime
12d ow no
120’ 4
Aquarian
3 ropes p 11 bad rope drag
to ground p 60m to 9 .5-4”
.4-3” 5.7 gully
p
.4-3” The Flake
gear belay
12b 160’ 19 belay takes 2-3”

5.10 5.10 squeeze var.

130’ 3

13b Black
.3-1” Cave .5-4”
.5-4.5” belay takes 5.7 chimney
.6-2” 120’ 18
12b 120’ 10 Horse
Chute
5.10
2 120’ many bolts .5-4.5”
5.9 squeeze
12c 13c .5-3”
140’
Rack:
17
9
.3-1” Nuts: 1 ea .75-4” bad hauling
The 170’ 1 Cams: 1 ea .3”
Great 5.9
Slab
2 ea .4”-4” splitter
1 ea 5” 16
Offset Cams: 1 ea
11b

.4-2”

3rd
5.3
fun!
Delectable
Pinnacle

600 yards to
Aquarian Wall 400’ to La Escuela

96 | El Capitan
 24
160’
5.10
160’
23

5.12
22
160’
11c
to Lurking Fear 140’
21

5.10
100’ 20 20 160’

Thanksgiving 5.8 FFA History: Tommy Caldwell freed the Dihedral Wall in May of
Ledge 2004. The sustained 5.13 and 5.14 route is so difficult it took until
19 160’
5.7 2016 to be repeated. Jorg Verhoeven repeated the route, practic-
120’
18
ing for several weeks before a final, weeklong push. Jorg reported
5.10
the route to be very difficult and sustained for its grade.
17 140’

5.10
90’ 16
5.10
15 130’

12b
110’ 14
13c
110’ 13
13c
12 120’
12d ow
11 160’

13b
120’ 11

13b
10 120’

13c
9 160’
Ledge
13d
8 130’
13d
140’ 7
13b
Triangle Roof 6110’
14a
120’ 5
12d
4 120’
12b
3 130’
12b
2 120’
12c
1 170’
12b

Photo: xRez.com 97
 Cosmos VI 5.7 A4
FA: 1972 - Jimmy Dunn
Direct Finish FA: May 1990 - Jimmy Dunn, John Middendorf

100’ 11

A1
Cosmos was the first El Capitan route to be put up solo. Jimmy Dunn
10 recalls, "I remember talking to El Cap. I was apologizing for being so haul160’
28 195’

cocky as to think I could solo this route." here

C1 and 5.8
A2 circleheads or
5.11 ow
120’ 19 .5-8”
The fixed ropes
on easy slabs 5.9
Window 5.6 or C1
5.7
chimney 9
good 27
bivy Excalibur
130’ 24

belay takes A2
18
.5-2” A2
5.3 cool 26
4.5 .4-4.5”

C1 A2
grass belay takes
8
1-2.5” NO NO
5.8
or C1 100’ 23 25
7 130’ 4”
steep
C1 crack on 5.10
belay takes 17 left wall or C1
1-3” A3
5.9 A3
.5-4.5” A2+
A3+ or
hooks cave C1 22
Lurking Fear Finish
A2 5.9 “Ask Jimmy”
LAs or C2 hooks var.

24
Lurking Fear
rappel route
110’ 6 A1
16 60’

A2 8” x 4’ 23
Direct Finish
ledge .4-3.5” Lurking Fear, (Not recommended)
West Buttress 5.9
A3 1000’(better way) ow
110’
Thanksgiving Ledge 22 Girdle
A3 5 170’ Traverse
15 150’
A3+
A4 loose flake loose

no A3+
stay cams original
right route
A2
A2
Rack: “The Big Chill”
110’
2 RURPs 4 165’
10 Beaks
4 KBs .3-3” C1
21
14
8 LAs: 2 ea #1 C2+ 90’
20
3 ea #2, #3 grovel
5.8
off
60 m 2 Angles: 1 ea 1/2”, 5/8” route
to 15 A3+
A2 3 Sawed Angles: 1 ea 3/4”-1 1/4” A2
Nuts: 1- ea 50’ 3
“Raven’s
1’x10’ ledge
Cams: 2-3 ea .4”-4” reachy hook Roost”
5.7
1 ea 5”, 7” (optional) A2 19
belay takes 13 120’ Offset Cams: 2 ea
.75-2” 120’ 2
3’ x 1’ ledge 15 Heads .3-3.5”
5 Circleheads A3
link 2 & 3 w.
C1 60m rope
Hooks: 2 ea
Camhooks
A2+
10 Rivet Hangers 150’ 1

100’ 12 belay takes 10 1/4” Wingnuts La Escuela

.6-2”
.4-2”

A3
11b
or C1+
The Roof

11

98 | El Capitan
 120’ 24
5.3 Lurking
110’ 23 Fear
10b or C1
Direct
1200’22 finish

Thanksgiving
Ledge

22 110’
A2
Cosmos climbs nice cracks and corners up a beautiful, steep 21

curve in the Southwest Face. Up higher, the angle lessens a A2 20 90’

little, and the route becomes more vegetated, but overall this A3
19
is a good route with only a couple A3+ or A4 pitches. Cosmos
5.7
is harder than the Iron Hawk or Mescalito.
18

Plan: This is not a good route in the early spring season, as

the cracks will likely be seeping or wet. The topo calls for 1/4” C1
wingnuts which you can put on the rivets to tighten down a 17

thin bolt hanger. Most parties spend four or five nights on the A2
wall. Bring the belay seat! Most teams top out on Lurking Fear. 16
50’
A3
The Elements/Retreat: Cosmos gets sun mid-morning to an
15 150’
A4
hour or so before sunset. This is a bad route to do in a storm.
The route’s long cracks quickly turn into rivers during rain.
14

Climb prepared! To retreat, rappel the route until belay 8, then A2

swing west and continue rappelling down Dihedral Wall. 120’
13

A2+
FA History: Jimmy Dunn became the first person to solo an El
Cap first ascent when he topped out Cosmos in 1972. Dunn 12 100’
had tried the route with three different partners, who all The A3
bailed - the last one took a fifty-foot fall while cleaning when a Roof 100’
11

bunch of pins fell out of a flake! A1

His partners may have known what Dunn was in for, because 10

he sufffered mightily on his ascent. On day one he dropped his A2

sleeping bag, day two he took a fifty-footer, higher up he 9
The
broke five drill bits trying to get one bolt in, then his hammock Window
ripped and he had to sleep slouched miserably in his haulbag, A2
an army surplus duffel bag!
8

Dunn was tough, but by the last few days even he started to C1 7 130’
crack. “I remember talking to El Cap. I was apologizing for
being so cocky to think I could solo this route.” He summited A3+
after nine days on the wall. 110’ 6
A3
When he got back to the Valley floor, Dunn got nervous. He
saw Jim Bridwell who had threatened him not to do the climb.
5
170’
Back then, it was common for multiple people to claim that A3+
they ‘saw’ a route first, so it was ‘theirs,’ but the first person to 4 165’
actually go climb the route always gets to name it. But the Bird “Raven’s
C2+
congratulated Dunn instead, and offered to cook him dinner. 3 50’ Roost”
Dunn, glad to be alive, asked Bridwell’s advice on what to A2 2 120’
name his route. “Call it Cosmos,” said Jim. A3
1 150’
In the 90s, Dunn repeated Cosmos, adding a couple variations
11b
plus a direct finish off of Thanksgiving Ledge, though he said or
the latter wasn’t worth recommending. C1+

Photo: xRez.com 99
 Excalibur VI 5.9 A3
FA: 1975 - Charlie Porter, Hugh Burton
75% FFA: May 1992 - Steve Schneider, Bill Price, Jeff Schoen
145’ 10 huge 19 110’
belay takes cave belay takes
.6-2.5” .6-2”
6” 195’
28
A2 haul 160’
thin here
10a

C1 and 5.8 squeeze

130’ good bivy or
Rack:
9
A3 5.11 ow
5.10 ow A3
or C1 .5-8”
original 12 Beaks: 2 ea #1, 85’ 18
9” aid line 5.9
5ea #2, #3 A3 hooks or C1
12c ow
or C1 8 LAs: 2 ea #2, #3 .5-2” belay
takes 1-3”
8” 1 ea #4, #5 17 130’ 135’ 27 11d
or A2
4 Angles: 2 ea 1/2”, 5/8” belay takes .5 - 3” p
4.5” 10d .5-3”
Nuts: 2 ea or C1
85’ 8 glassy
Cams: 2 ea .3”-.4” slab A3 might be
12b ow 3-4 ea .5”-7” better to leave bags here
or C1 160’ 26 and haul from the
1 ea 8”-10” or wood blocks C1 summit (tying ropes
together)
5-6”
for entire
Offset Cams: 2 ea C2+
pitch 15 Heads (extra small) 5.8
90’ 16 good bivy
Hooks: 2 ea 3-5”
Camhooks 5.8
75’ 7 hands
El Cap
3”
10 Rivet Hangers Spire Salathé
12a belay takes Freerider
11c 10 1/4” Nuts face 1-4.5” 50’ 25
or
C2 Bolt Kit or Frosty’s 11d
C2 Claustrophobic fingers
Bivy & hands
10’ x 10’ x 12”
12a 24 130’
or C2+ 140’ 15
10d
fingers
6 160’ or C1
drilled 5.10 ow
hooks 3”
5”
11d
11c thin hands
or C1 or C1
The Round
23
beaks Table 130’

grassy Girdle 13a

Traverse or A2 Freerider,
A3 pin scars 140’ 14 Girdle Traverse

5.9
5 100’
C2
free A3
var. 12d .4-3”
or C2 130’ 22
thin Lancelot’s
5.9 Slot A3
13 120’

6”
3 130’
50’ 4
The Heart Route, 4”
5.6 Bermuda Dunes
5.7 12d ow C2
110’ chim. or C1
150’ from 5
Fix to the
ground with two 150’ 21 160’
70m ropes
The 5.10 or 13a
Slack C3 hooks or C2
5.8 Guinevere’s loose
80’ double 100’ 12 Bed block
cracks on 12a
left wall or C1
2 15’x3’
100’
.5-3” A3
5.6 130’ 20 belay takes
chimney .5-2”
Cosmos 115’ 11 dikes
150’ 160’ 1 5.9
ow .3-1”
8” 11c thin
or C1
3” A2 19 110’
grassy belay takes .6 - 2”
2”
La Escuela 10a
10
1”
400’ to the
Dihedral Wall
5.7
Starts on Sacherer flare
Cracker/ The Slack Right
Little John 250’

100 | El Capitan
 28
195’
5.11 or 5.8 C1
135’ 27
A3 26 160’
C2+

Frosty’s Bivy 2550’

11d or C1
130’
24

11d or C1
The Roundtable 23130’
13a or A2
22 130’
Excalibur is a superb wide crack odyssey. With plenty
of thin cracks between the wide to keep it interesting, A3
this is like a double West Buttress route, but cleaner.
21 160’
The top, above the Roundtable, is fantastic. Frosty’s 13a or C2
Claustrophobic Bivy is unique on all of El Cap. 130’ 20

Plan: Fix four pitches on day one, then plan on 11c or C1

spending five to seven nights on the wall. Bring extra 110’ 19 A3
big cams if you don’t want to have to run it out and 85’ 18
back clean on the wide pitches. A317
130’
10d or C1
The Elements/Retreat: Excalibur is shady until
mid-morning. This route follows long crack systems, 90’ 16
which quickly turn to icy rivers in a storm. Climb 12a or C2 El Cap
prepared! Also, in the spring the cracks can be wet. To 140’ 15 Spire
retreat, rappel the route. From pitch 5 there are 11c or C1
stations straight down (slightly west) of the route.
140’ 14
FA History: Badass Yosemite bigwall pioneers Charlie A3 Lancelot’s Slot
Porter and Hugh Burton made the first ascent in 1975,
130’13
using only pitons, nuts, and hooks.
12d or C1
To negotiate the many wide pitches, Porter milled a Guinevere’s
100’ 12 Bed
variety of aluminum blocks. He made a groove in the
A3
side of each block so either a four or six-inch piton
would stack securely against it. The blocks worked so 115’ 11
well Porter and Burton were able to belay from them, A2
145’ 10
in 8” to 10” sections of crack, thus saving precious
bolts and energy. The pair topped out after nine days 10a
on the wall. 130’ 9
12c or C1
The first pitches had already been climbed by earlier
climbers. The sixth pitch, a thin seam, had been 85’ 8

dubbed ‘The hardest aid pitch in Yosemite.’ Interest- 12b or C1

ingly, this was a pitch where the earlier climbers had 75’ 7
experimented with chiselling placements because the 12a or C2+
crack was so thin. Porter and Burton, who thought 160’ 6
chiselling was bad form, were able to climb the pitch
A3
and avoid the chiselled placements by stacking RURPs
in the thin crack. 100’ 5
12d or C2
FFA History: In 1992 Steve Schneider free climbed 50’ 5.6 3 130’
4

most of the wide pitches on the route, up to a 5.13a The

5.8
grade. He led four savage pitches of 5.12 ow that Slack 2 100’

remain unrepeated today, requiring a mix of offwidth 5.6

1 160’
technique and runout liebacking.
10a
Photo: xRez.com 101
 The Free Heart Route VI 5.13c
FA: June 2015 - Mason Earle, Brad Gobright

25 18

31
Pacemaker 10d R
Golden or A3
Gate small 11b p
A3 “Golden Desert” nuts
p
13a
5.9 move
Pacemaker, or C2
Heart 30
A4 exp Route A3 5.9+
Golden
or C1
24 El Eagle 11a
Corazón
5.11
Pacemaker Tower to 5.6
29 “Fat City” knobs
the People 17 130’
16’ x 3’ sloping ledge
Razor
11d Blade 11a
23 or A3 Son
p of
Heart
12a
or A2
link 30 & 31 w. 5.11
60m rope
5.9

Pacemaker, p 28
22
35’ 16 Heart Route
belay takes
The Heart
.75 camalot
13b
Rack:
Route arête 15 130’ 5.7 Nuts: 1 ea
wide Cams: 2 ea .3”-4”
10a
ow 11a Offset Cams: 2 ea
The “A5 Traverse” pp or A1
Chickenwing p
Chimney Elevator 26
Shaft p p p p 27
11d 13a 12a or
13b or A3+ A3+
or A2 25
face climb
right of
crack
follow splitter
21 on right wall,
move left at
old aid anchor
13a The Heart Bermuda
move Route 110’ 14 Dunes
belay takes
2”,3”
“The Dub Step”
13b 5.12 extreme
down- dyno(13+) 6 90’
or A3
12a p
50’ 4 100’
5 25’
20
12+
move

12+
10c
wet The
STEEP! Heart
11c
Orig.
pp 19 chimney Heart
13 150’ to lieback Route 9 170’

Excalibur 12” Orig.

5.8 Heart
squeeze Route
3 90’ 10” P
5.9R P
Hollow
Flake 7”
4th
10c 5.10 8 180’
or A3 dirty Salathé
12a
12a
Lung Ledge
2 150’ good bivy for 3 10b
The
18
Slack .75-2”
12 90’ 11d Heart Ledges good bivy
11c inobvious downclimb 11c for 5
step right Bermuda
out of chimney Dunes
11a
7 150’
Salathé Muir
105’ Heart
11
Rap
160’ Route
Cosmos 1 5.9 13a 5 ropes
ow to ground
8” “The Brissler
.5-3” Highway”
3” (free route follows
10a leftmost bolts)

2”
10 115’ La Escuela 10a
5.7 1” 6

400’ to the
5.7 Dihedral Wall 5.7
chimney flare
Starts on Sacherer
Cracker/ The Slack Right
9 Little John
250’
102 | El Capitan
 31
100’
11b
Golden Eagle Ledge 30 80’
11a
29 100’

The Razorblade (11a)

100’ 28

“A5 Traverse” (13a) 11a

40’ 27 30’
100’ 25
26
12a
“Golden Desert” 13a
24 40’
Tower to the People 11d
23 40’
5.9
22 100’

Chickenwing Chimney (11d)

21 100’

“The Move” (13a) 20 50’

10c
19 100’

10c
18 100’
5.11
Golden Gate
17 130’
5.11
35’ 16 13b
15 130’
“The Elevator Shaft” (13b)

110’ 14
13b
The Salathé 13 150’
5.10
12 90’

105’ 11 11c The Heart

10a
10 115’
5.7
170’ 9

The Hollow Flake (12a)

8 180’

11c
7 150’
5.12 13a
25’ 6 90’
100’ 4 5

11c
3 90’ “The Dub Step” (13c)
12a
2 150’
The Slack 11a
1 160’
10a

Photo: xRez.com 103

 10 115’

Bermuda Dunes VI 5.10 A4+

5.7

5.7 FA: 1984 - Steve Schneider, John Barbella

chimney

75’
9 200’ 27
18
12”
5.8 5.6
squeeze
10” A2
5.9R
Hollow 7” Salathé 70’ 26
Flake The Laser
Beam
pins and 5.9 crack in
small cams or back
C1 25 100’
A1 slab
5.5
tricky route-
finding 30’ rap to
165’ 17
bivy ledge
Cool 10d
8
or
C1
100’ 24
bivy NO
5.8 P dike
A1 Pacemaker
var.
5.9
10c P C2
A2 P
NO
23

11a beautiful Long Ledge

face or long corner 125’ 16
good bivy for 2
C3 hooks A1
KB var.
5.9 Salathé
7 chimney 5.8
hooks, rivets

A2 A2
A3
10a
165’ 15
22
Salathé
5.8
A1
A2 Steve Schneider, a fun guy, was one of the pioneer KBs
140’
El Cap
bigwall free climbers. He established the free hooks
great bivy
for 4 Spire variations and rappel route to Lurking Fear,
11c
6 and put in substantial efforts to free the A4+
5.7 “The Fishhead
chimney West Buttress and Excalibur. These acts Pitch”
11c
1” significantly paved the way for future free exposed!
165’ 14 The Alcove heads
good bivy for 4 and speed ascents.
chimney 4” 10a ow
6.5” or C1 21
8” 10a 150’
5
The Heart
Route 13c
or
11a
11a
Conan Cracks ow
C1+ Rack:
AKA 8” 5 RURPs A3+
.5-4” loose
Monster 10d fist
Excalibur
Offwidth or 25 Beaks: 5ea #1,
C1 10ea #2, #3 move
100’ 13 left 20 165’
4
10 LAs “Pine Island
10c 90’ Bivy”
A1 ow 4 Angles: 2 ea 1/2,” 5/8”
The
3
8” Ear 5.7 Nuts: Many thin
chimney
3 ea 5-7” Tube Chocks
1-6.5” Cams: 4-6 ea to 4” 1-1.5”
5.8
double 12
cracks on 10d or C1
1 ea 5” A1
left wall belay below
2 bad bolts
120’
Salathé 30 Heads
100’ A2 3 Circleheads 19 160’
grassy .5-2” Hooks
5.6
chimney 10c
or
C1 exp
160’
Cosmos 1 5.9 Free Heart
ow Route slabs
11 105’
8”
The Guillotine
3” A4+
RURPs, beaks
2” .5-3” 18
La Escuela 10a 10a
1” or
C1
10
400’ to the
Dihedral Wall 5.7
Starts on Sacherer flare
Cracker/ The Slack Right

Little John
250’

104 | El Capitan
 25

10d or C1
100’ 24 5.9

Salathé 23
A2
22

The Fishhead A4+

21

A3+ 20 “Pine Island”

A1
19 165’
A4+ “The Gullotine”
18 160’
A2
The Laser Beam “Pass the Pitons” Pete Zabrok, who at the time of this
17 165’
A2 publication has climbed 63 different El Cap routes,
125’ 16 says Bermuda Dunes is one of his favorites: “This
fantastic route climbs through the giant roofs you see
A2
right of the Salathé Headwall. Pine Island is one of the
Salathé 165’ most ‘out there’ places on the whole Captain, and the
15

El Cap Spire A2 long tension traverse above to approach Long Ledge

is quite the challenge. You even get to sleep on El Cap
14 165’
Spire! ‘Valley Giants’ Tom and I replaced the anchor
11a or C1
bolts so it’s good to go.”
The Monster Offwidth
100’ 13
10c or C1 Salathé
12

A2 11 105’

10a or C1
10115’
5.7
9 200’
5.9 R
Salathé
Hollow Flake

11a or C3
7

A3
6
11c or C1
5

11a or C1
4

A1
3

5.8
2 100’
5.6
The Slack 1 160’

10a

Photo: xRez.com
105
 160’ 14
stance

C1 or
5.10
Son of Heart VI 5.8 A3
FA: August 1971 - Rick Sylvester, Claude Wreford-Brown
many 1-1.5” 100’ 24

pro to 7”
5.10
or C1 Nietzsche
Chimney
A1 or C2
camhooks
165’ 23
start left,
move right A2 10b 50’
Rack:
29
or C1
140’ 13 free belay
60m haul
A2 8 Beaks: 2 ea #1 from 21
blades 200’
3 ea #2, #3 (recommended) 5.9 move
12b or Kierkegaard 28 or C2
nuts and 3 KBs: 1 ea #3 5.8, C2
small cams dirty Chimney
2 ea #4 5.9+
5.8 bombay or C1
12 130’ 6 LAs: 2 ea #2, #3 chimney
A2 1 ea #5, #6 22 140’
belay takes Heart Route,
Heart 3.5” 2 Angles: 1 ea 1/2”-5/8” 1-3” cams Pacemaker 5.6
knobs Free Magic
Route grass 4 Sawed Angles: 1 ea 1/2” - 1” Mushroom
belay takes 11 100’ Nuts: 1-2 ea 10d
“Fat City”
.6-1.5” El
Cams: 3 ea .4”-4” or C1
Corazón
5.10
or
5.5 2 ea 5”,7” C1
Salathé 120’
10 1-2 ea 12” (optional) 120’ 21 140’ 27

Heart Offset Cams: 1-2 ea Golden .4-2”

Ledges 9 Heads: 3 ea #2-#4 5.6 Gate
good bivy 5.8 11c
for 5 or Hooks: 2 ea 5.11 or C1
4.5 ropes A3
C2+ Camhooks
to ground 5-7”
.5-4.5” 5 Rivet Hangers C2+
loose
110’ 9 rock finger 5.11 free var. C2
3”
.5-5” 26 150’
10d 20 El Corazón
or
C1 140’ A2
LAs,
8 100’ camhooks
A3 Sunkist
Heart 5.9+ lb belay
Ledges or big swing or
Rappels C1 C2 hooks up/left
5.11 .5-5” blades
or and beaks
C2 or 5.9 A2
belay takes A2
100’ 7 .4-2” “Tonsilectomy 150’ 25
130’ 19 Traverse”
.6-3”
A2 or 3.5
5.10 5-7” cams Corazón A2+
or Magic
Mushroom sawed angles
C1+ C2 Sunkist
or 13a “Coffee Corner”
6 110’
230’ to “8a Traverse” 110’ camhooks 24
Little John C1
5 120’ 18
from 6
13b or C2+
“Poorly Protected
steep California Wetlands”
A2 hooks
12a The gigantic chimneys that Son of Heart is famous for
or C1+
help make it one of "five obvious lines" visible by moonlight.
.4-2” Magic
Mushroom Rick Sylvester led these wide pitches with no cams and
Jolly A2 only a few primitive nuts and hooks. “Runout in those
120’ 4 hooks 85’
Roger
huge 17 chimneys, a piece of my mind exfoliated away.” - Sylvester.
11d R corner
or Heartbreak Hotel
C2+ 1’ x 3’ ledge 15’ wild roof
A3 blades, arrows
Little Magic 80’ 16
John 135’ 3 Mushroom
140’ 3.5”
to ground 11b A2
or .5-3”
C1 12a
or loose
C1 sweet
2 80’ ledge 160’ 15 8”x8’ ledge
5.8 A3 loose
150’
Original 130’ 1
water
start streak good bolts,
bad dowels
5.9+
squeeze Ahab
5.9 exp
fist 10b
Son of Heart first climbed independent terrain to Heart Ledges. squeeze C2+ loose
The FAists did not record the early pitches, so today parties
start on Moby Dick and join the Muir Wall to reach the Heart. 5.10 160’ 14
150’ to
Pine Line

106 | El Capitan
 50’ 29
5.9 or C1 Son of Heart is an adventurous route
28 200’
marked by several large chimneys. An
5.10 or C1 obvious natural line, SOH features some
27 140’ grassy cracks but also some awesome
A3 exposed climbing. Escaping the Heart is
26 150’ amazing! The three chimneys are
A2
challenging even to French free. This
150’
25
route is rewarding if you have already
Tonsillectomy
A2+
Traverse 24 100’
done the long classics, like Mescalito,
Nietzsche
Muir, Shield, Magic Mushroom, etc. It is
5.10 or C1 about the same difficulty as Mescalito or
23 165’ Chimney
Magic Mushroom.
Kierkegaard 12b or C2
Plan: Day one fix the first three pitches,
Chimney 22
140’
and prehaul to Heart Ledge. Day two
10d or C1
climb to Heart. Most parties spend 4 - 6
130’ 21
5.11 or C2+ nights on the wall. Bring a belay seat.
20140’

A3 The Elements/Retreat: SOH long cracks

19 130’ quickly turn into icy rivers in a storm.
Climb prepared! Retreat by rappelling
A2
the route.
18 120’
A2 FA History: Rick Sylvester recruited
Heartbreak 17 85’ Claude Wreford-Brown to belay him on
Hotel A3 the first ascent in July 1971. This was the
80’ 16
A2 first time someone put up an El Cap
160’ 15 route where they led every pitch. It was
A3 also the first ascent that featured 5.10
Rick Sylvester was also the first person to ski climbing, but today with modern cams
BASE jump off of El Capitan. He did three ski 160’ 14 you only have to climb 5.8. And Rick
BASE jumps off the Dawn Wall, the last a only had RURPs, pitons, and bongs for
close call. He crashed through tree branches C2
his ascent - he didn’t even have nuts,
a hundred and fifty feet up, collapsing his 13 140’
copperheads, or cams!
parachute, but miraculously hung up on a A2
tree branch sixty feet above the ground. 12 130’ The chimneys, which define the route,
A2 gave Sylvester trouble. “I went up there
100’ 11 with a pipe dream that the section
5.5 would involve 5.4 clambering over
Heart 120’10
blocks.” Sylvester ended up having to
Ledge 11c or C2+
do 5.10 wide climbing while trying to
9 110’ hammer bongs into the backs of the
10d or C1 cracks. These pitches are still difficult
8 100’
even with big cams today!
The 11b or C2
Muir 7 100’ “The Exposure! Hanging off those
Wall 5.10 or C1+ armbars in the Nietzsche and Kierkeg-
60’ 6 5 110’ aard Chimneys, staring down two
13b or C2+ thousand feet into the void, a huge
“8a Traverse” 4 120’
chunk of my mind exfoliated away.”
11d R
12a or C1+
or C2+ Rick cavalierly planned only five days for
135’ 3
this three-thousand-foot first ascent.
12a or C1
The climb took nine days, and the two
40’ 2 suffered terribly. They spent the last two
5.8
145’ 1 and half days with no food or water, in
Moby
Dick 5.10 nearly 100 degree heat!
Photo: xRez.com
107
 Jolly
Sunkist VI 5.7 A3+
Roger FA: October 1978 - Bill Price, Dale Bard
110’ 22
good bivi
30 50’

200’ 5.9 move

A3
29 or C2
Rack: 5.9+
50’ 21
13 Beaks: 3 ea #1, 4 ea #2 or C1
A2
6 ea #3
A3
2 lead lines 4 LAs: 1 ea #1 - #4 Heart Route, 5.6
helpful 20 100’ Pacemaker
3 Sawed Angles: 1 ea 1/2”-3/4” knobs
Nuts: 1 ea
C1+
Jolly awk Cams: 3 ea .4”-3” El 5.10
chimney Corazón
Roger 2 ea 4” or
C1
1-8”
1 ea 5”, 8”
Offset Cams: 2 ea 140’ 28
19 140’
9 Heads: 3 ea #2-#4 Golden .4-2”
Gate
C1 2 Circleheads: 1 ea #3, #4
loose
Hooks: 2 ea A3 loose
5.9
Camhooks
A2 15 Rivet Hangers
hooks C2
70’ 18
Captain’s 27 80’
Quarters . cool
arête
Jolly cool 2’x15’
Roger
.3-2” A2 ledge A2

120’ 17
160’ 26 Sunkist finishes on
the last 4.5 pitches
of Son of Heart
loose flake

A2 hooks, A2
heads Flight of the
Albatross, 70’
Free Magic Mushroom
130’ 16
heads Magic
Mush.
2”-4” A5 Arch
A3 p Son of
Heart A3+
Muir heads
penji low and p et al.
backclean, 5.6
or use two 80’ 15 140’ 25
lead lines 14 120’
C2

Flight of the
Albatross Grey
11a Ledges
or C3
13 125’ A3
beaks
3”-4”
24 165’
12c A3
or C1 beaks

115’ 12
.3-3”
4”
C2 glory!
11d
or C1

120’ 23
165’ 11
Muir
11b et al.
or C1 A2
weird drilled
hooks
5.8 A2+
or C1 Jolly
Sunkist climbs 4.5 pitches of Magic Mushroom Roger
10 110’
above Mammoth Terraces before entering new terrain.
Heart Ledges Most parties prehaul their kit to Mammoth, then 22
190’ climb the Freeblast the next day.
good bivy Freeblast
for 4+
Mammoth
5 more ropes Terraces
to ground
from Heart

108 | El Capitan
 50’ 30
5.9 or C1
200’ 29

5.10 or C1
28140’
A3
27 80’

A2
160’ 26
A5
Arch
Son of Heart A3+25
140’
A3
The 24 165’

Headwall A3

23 120’
A2+
22
110’
A3
50’ 21 A3
20100’

C1+
19 140’

A2
Captain’s Quarters 70’
18
A2
2
120’ 17 Sunkist
A2
130’ 16
A3
80’ 15 C2
120’ 14 Gray
11d or C3 Ledges
13 125’

12c or C1
115’ 12 Magic Mushroom
11d or C1
165’ 11
11b or C1
Sunkist is one of the best A3 routes on El Cap.
While it doesn’t have the endless splitters of Mammoth
10

the nearby Shield, it’s got a couple superb Terraces

pitches, and tons of interesting climbing in a
spectacular position. Sunkist is a natural step
up from the Shield or Zodiac. It is similar in
difficulty Never Never Land. Freeblast - Salathe

Plan: Most folks climb Freeblast one day, and

then haul to Mammoth and bivy there the
next. Plan on five or six nights on the wall.
Bring a belay seat.
The Elements/Retreat: Sunkist follows long
cracks that quickly turn into icy rivers in a
storm. Climb prepared! Retreat by rappelling
the route.
FA History: Bill Price and Dale Bard made the
first ascent in 1978.

Photo: xRez.com
109
 Son Magic
Mush.
Jolly Roger VI 5.11 A5
of Muir
Heart
Heart 190’ 8 FA: 1979 - Charles Cole, Steve Grossman
Route 15

Mammoth
Terraces 4”
10d Sunkist
5.10
good 14 140’
Heart Ledges bivy
7 for 5 belay takes 4” 23
Salathé
Heart loose C1
Route Magic 5.9
Mushroom 5.9 knobs
Heart Rap
5.9 R Route
5 ropes A3
6 no pro to ground hooks
22
13 5.10
Captain’s rivets hard
Quarters to see
A4+ cool 2’x15’
ledge A2 Rack:
free moves 2 RURPs
mantel 28 Beaks: 8 ea #1, Free
Sunkist Magic
10 ea #2, #3 Mushroom A4+
A4
10 LAs ramp
5.10 face no pro A4+ 6 Angles: 3 ea 1/2”, 5/8” (inc. sawed off) or 14a

5.10
exp Nuts: all inc. many small
5 12
Cams: 4 ea (inc. offsets)
75 Heads A2
Hooks: all
5.10 A4 21
7” exp
beaks
5.9 A2 or
5.13
A5 Golden Doubloon “The Seven
Seas” many small
WAY steep and long! cams & offsets

4
20
11
heads, A5
offset cams heads A2
or 12a

A4 pins &
A4 small cams Free
stellar Magic
hooking Mushroom

3 Crow’s
Nest 19

3” piece
5.6 10
A2

A3 heads, A3+hooks
A1
LAs
A3

5.8, 18
A1
heads

2 5.9
chimney
stance 9 A3+
A4
17
5.10

A4
A5
heads, pins, cams
1 5.11R heads
slab
10d Dorn
Direct 8
Sunkist 110’ A4 ramp
16

5.8 140’ to
ground
This immensely difficult route was put up by two of the
Little leaders of Yosemite wall climbing at the time. Its second A3
John
ascent was done solo by Xaver Bongard, one of the wall 50’ p A3
experts of the 80s who went on to establish The Grand small cams, A2 p
Voyage on Great Trango Tower (VII 5.10 A4+ WI 3) pins
15
with John Middendorf in 1992.
Sunkist

110 | El Capitan
 23

5.9
22

A4+

21

A2 or 5.13
20

A2 or 12a
19 Crow’s Nest
A3+
18

A3+
17

A5

110’ 16
A3
15

5.10
14

A3 and 5.9
13
Captain’s Quarters

A4+
12

Golden Doubloon (A5)

11

A5
10

5.9 A1
9

5.10 A4
Mammoth
190’ 8
Terraces

10d
Heart Ledge 7

5.9 R
6

5.10 and A4+

5

5.10
4

A4
3

A3
2

A4
1
10d
5.8
Little John
Photo: xRez.com
111
 El Corazón VI 5.13b
FA: October 2001 - Die Huberbaum: Alex and Thomas Huber
29
28 210’
11b p
p
p
ow (5 - 8”)
28
5.9+
Golden
Eagle 11a
Muir, Triple Direct
8
5.10 5.6 8 250’
knobs 30’
27 “Fat City” 27
160’ good bivy .5-2”
Razor 11a for 3
Blade Son Mammoth
of Terraces
Heart
12a 5.7
or A2 belay
Heart Ledges takes 110’
Original Finish .75-2”
good bivy for 5
26 belay takes 1.5 - 2” Magic 5.7
Mushroom
Muir
Heart Rap
Route
5 ropes (usually fixed) 7 20’
5.7 p 16 beak total to ground.
wide p move belay 7 120’
120’
11a 18
“A5 Traverse” p p Magic 5.8
12d Half chimney
25 Mushroom
p p p p 24 Dollar
13a 12a finger p
or 5.11 A0 size cams Flight of the
5-7” Albatross 1-4”
10b slick
23 15 5” hard move
10b belay takes p p p to get into
p 1-2” chimney, bomber
6 120’
14 nut just before
“Golden Desert” 5.11
loose,
crux 13a scary Beam
takes 17 C3 Flake 5.9
thin- 11b
fingers p Bobby’s
gear slab Bunny Slope 13
Son of 12c C2 5 110’
Heart p 13a
5.12 Beak
beak p 16 Flake Triangle
22
“Roof Traverse” Ledge
p 13b dyno
C2
Tower to p Magic
13b 11a
21 Son of Mush.
the People
16’ x 3’ p Heart p
sloping ledge Muir, 4 125’
12
et al. double extend,
13a Coffee Corner C2 or back clean 11b/c
or C2 farthest left
Golden Gate, bolt to lessen
Heart Route rope drag
5.9 10d - flaring, so Totems
20 offset nuts and cams
Grey are key
pro to 7” 11 Ledges 3 100’
10b Nietzsche
Chimney .5-1.5” 10c
10c

19

10b
10 2 90’
60m haul link 2 & 3
Rack: from 16 18
w. 60m rope
(recommended)
12b
Nuts: 1 ea micro, regular Kierkegaard 5.7
11a Magic
Cams: 2-3 ea .3”- 4” Chimney Mushroom
P
5.8 bombay 9 205’ 1
1 ea 5”,7” chimney Muir
11b
Many pitches require pitons 17 140’ Flight of the
et al. 5.8 fist
to lead. Aid parties tend to belay takes Albatross 10a rap with 1.5-4”
1-3” cams one 70m rope
remove fixed pins, or they fall 150’ (stop here, and
link to pitch 2,
out so best to bring a few beaks 110’ to
if worried about
falling off the
10d
and angles just in case. 8 8 ground short crux
above pitch 1)
Magic 10c
Mammoth Mushroom fingers
The first 8 - 10 pitches
Terraces (depending on where you
16 belay) of the Salathé Wall
are called Freeblast.

Pine
This route is a remarkable linkup of sections of The Salathé Wall, Line
Flight of the Albatross, Son of Heart and the Heart Route. The
product is a very natural line with fewer thin face traverses than toe of the
most El Cap free routes. Nose

112 | El Capitan
 31100’ 30

11b
Golden Eagle Ledge 30 80’
5.9+
11a 29
29 100’
Golden
Gate The Razorblade (11a) 12a
28 100’
Finish
“A5 Traverse” (13a) 11a
40’ 27 30’
“Golden Desert” (13a), 100’ 25
26
12a
24 13b
Tower to the People 23

Coffee Corner (13a) 22

Nietzsche Chimney (10b)

21

10b
20

Kierkegaard Chimney (12b)

19

10d
18
10b
17
Bobby’s Bunny Slope (12c)
16
12d
15

5.11
14

Beam Flake (11b)

13

Beak Flake (13b)

12

5.9
11

10c
10

11a
9

10a
250’ 8 Mammoth
5.7 Terraces

5.7
120’ 7
The Half
10b or C1+ Dollar
6 140’
5.9

140’ 5 Triangle Ledge

11a or 5.8 A0
4 125’
Free
Blast 11b or 5.9 A0

3 100’
10c or C1
90’ 2

55’ 1 11b or C1
5.8
150’
10c or C1
Photo: xRez.com
113
 115’ 12 Magic Mushroom VI 5.7 A3 or 5.14a
FA: May 1972 - Hugh Burton, Steve Sutton
4”

11d
or C1
200’ sweet bivy
32 130’ 24
165’ 11
Muir, Shield, Pack it in
11b et al. Pack it out!
or C1 A3
or
13a
5.8
or C1 4th
10 150’ 23 110’

190’ good bivy Freeblast 2’x5’

ledge C2 awk
for 4+ or 10d
4”
5 ropes Mammoth .5-5”
5.7
to ground Terraces
from Heart 22 110’
31 80’
Ledges C2 or stance
13b
free belay 5.7
slot
5.8 or or C2F
C1 C1 or 14a
110’ 9
5.10 or C2 fixed

C1 cool Rack: 70’ 30

70’
heads

or 12b 8 Beaks: 2 ea #1, 3 ea #2, #3 P P 21

10d slab
7 LAs: 1 ea #1 or C2 arrows
5” 2 ea #2, #3 A2+ or
29 100’ 13d lb
2 Angles: 1 ea 1/2”, 5/8” fixed
130’ 8
link 28 & 29
4 Sawed Angles: 1 ea 1/2”-1” heads
C2+ w. 60m rope 100’ 20
A1 or 5.12 Nuts: 2 ea or pitches 18-21
Cams: 3 ea .4”-4” 13c use many
small wires
5.9+ flare C2+
or C1 6-8” 1 ea 5”, 7”, 8” (optional) or 13c
Offset Cams: 2 ea 28 100’
7 100’ 5”
6 Heads: 2 ea #2-#4 5.8 110’ 19
4-5” or
5.8 flare Hooks: 2 ea C1 C2
Camhooks or 13a
12b or C2
110’ 6 4 Rivet Hangers
C2 27 120’
4” Flight of the
Chieftain Ledge 120’ 18 Albatross
C1 13c var. 30’x3’ sloping ledge .4-4” Red Bullet 5”
5.10 or C2 p 5.12
Corazón
C3
or C3 or A2
13b Skylab
17 110’
11d or C3 or A2 13a
A1 Original
Muir 5 Chickenhead Ledge 26
Wall 100’ 12b Route 30’x9’ sloping,
The C2
or C1+ use portaledge
120’ Shield Free
.5-2” Magic
60m haul 16 115’ Mushroom
C1 Free from14
Better Magic C2
Way 4 Mushroom 13b dyno
3 150’ C2
110’ 25
5.11+ R 12a
or C2+ wild C2+ Jolly p
Roger Muir
penji C1 Sunkist p et al.
4-6” 5.6
Mediterraneo 130’ 80’ 15
24 14 120’
C2
11b C2
100’
Flight of the Grey
2
Albatross
11aLedges
10a wide or C3
or C1 Burton and Sutton established this route 13 125’
12a 5.8 after only having climbed the Nose, when they
Little 165’ 1 were only 17 and 19 years old. Their 4-5”
John
self-igniting matches spontaneously
10a 12c
or C1 combusted, lighting one of their haulbags on or C1
Salathé fire!
Wall
10a 115’ 12
.3-5”

5.7
or C1
Free Magic Mushroom
starts on the Muir
Wall, via Moby Dick Pine
Line
large
ledge

114 | El Capitan
 50’ 29 32
200’
5.9
200’ 28 80’ 31 5.7
5.9+
Magic Mushroom is the longest, most natural 5.10 or C2
70’ 30 10d or C2
and direct route up the Shield Headwall. Charac- 27 170’
29 100’
terized by endless thin and wide corners, the 13b 26120’ 13c or C2+
28 100’
climbing is a little less classic than the nearby 14a
90’ 25 12b or C2
Triple Cracks on the Shield, but is still very high 12c 27 120’

quality. And it’s an A3 moderate! There are also 160’ 24

11d or C3 or A2
several awesome bivy ledges on the route. It’s a 12c 50’ 26
C2 Chickenhead
25 110’
step up in difficulty from Muir Wall. Technically, 140’ 24 C1 Ledge
it’s similar to Zodiac but feels more difficult 13a or A3
because it is much longer, like a double Zodiac. 23110’
10d or C2
Plan: This is a route where it is important to fix 22 100’
through pitch 4, because the first pitches traverse 14a or C2F Shield
a ton. After that it is glory cruising. Bring the Headwall
21 70’

belay seat. I would fix to pitch 4 day one, then 13d or A2+
20100’
prehaul to Mammoth Terrace on day two. Note -
13c or C2+
you have to store your food in plastic containers if
you’re going to leave your bags on Mammoth - 19 110’
13a or C2
otherwise the mice and ravens will get in them. 18
Then day three start super early jugging your C3 or A2 5.12
fixed lines. The routes through the Shield head- 17 16

13a
wall are notoriously windy and cold all year long, C2 Free Magic
so this is a good route in warmer weather. Most 16 15 Mushroom
parties spend five or six nights on the wall. C2
13b
80’ 15
The Elements/Retreat: The Mushroom gets sun C2 14 120’ Grey
mid-morning to an hour or so before sunset. MM 11a or C3 Ledges
is a very bad route to do in a storm, as its long 125’ 13
cracks quickly turn into rivers during rain. Climb 12c or C1
prepared! 12 115’

11d or C1
FA History: Steve Sutton and Hugh Burton, ages 11 165’

17 and 19, made the first ascent in 1972. The 10a or C1

climb took nine days, and went smoothly. “We
Mammoth
didn’t have to do much drilling. Didn’t have to do 150’ 10 Terraces
much cleaning - it was really clean,” recalled
13b or C2
Sutton. “Our rack probably weighed a hundred
pounds - all pitons and hooks, with no nuts,
9 110’
copperheads or cams.” 12b or C1
8 130’
A1 or 5.12
Their first attempt had ended when a storm
dumped two feet of snow while they shivered on 5.9+
The Alcove
7100’
Mammoth Terrace. If they were higher, they
might have died because they didn’t have a 13c or C2
6 110’
rainfly for their hammocks. They went home, to
Muir Wall 13b or C3
finish high school in Canada, and made a rainfly
for their next attempt. This was how new the 110’ 5 A1
12a or C1+ 4 120’
sport of bigwall climbing was - if you had a 120’ 4 C1
challenge, you had to create the gear that you 11d R or C2+ 3 150’
needed. Epic! 135’ 3 C2
2 100’
12a or C1
Photo: xRez.com 40’ 2 10a ow or C1
5.8
1 145’ 1 165’
Free
Magic 5.10 10a or C1
Mushroom 115
 Free Magic Mushroom VI 5.14a
115’ 12 FFA: May 2008 - Tommy Caldwell, Justin Sjong
.5”
(3x green Alien)
11d

29 50’
130’ 23
165’ 11
Muir, Shield,
10a et al.
200’ 5.9 12b
28

5.8 5.9+
good bivy 13a
10 150’ for 2
22

190’ 13b 2’x5’

5.6 10d
Freeblast knobs Jolly ledge
4” Roger
5 ropes Mammoth 27 aid up to here, put long sling on .5-4.5”
to ground Terraces El 170’ 11bR bolt to protect 13b crux
from Heart 21 110’
Ledges Corazón Son of
thin, straight in Heart 13b stance
no crack ramp
140’ 9
belay takes .75”
(yellow Alien)
5.8 14a
26 120’ fixed
stance heads
sweet
splitter 70’ 20
14a
12b
5”
13d lb
fixed
heads
5.13 100’ 19
pitches 18-21
gear anchor 8
“The Seven use many
Seas” small wires
5.9+ flare 13c
6-8”
25 gear belay
7 100’ 50m to 90’
5 110’ 18
4-5”
5.8 flare
12c 13a
110’
160’ 24

4” Flight of the
120’ 17 Albatross
C1 13c - clip first bolt, then downclimb one body length, and traverse right pins & Red Bullet 5”
6 small cams
belay takes .75” Corazón p 5.12
(.3 camalot / yellow Alien size)
16
13b C3 or A2
(short)
Free 12c Beam
110’ Flake
Magic Jolly
Mushroom Roger Magic 11b
A1 Original Mushroom
Muir 5 Route
Wall 100’ 12b 15
130’ 23
C2
120’ 13a
.5-2” 115’ Beak
C1 Flake
4
150’ 13b dyno
one bolt,
5.11 R one rivet
C2+ p
wild Muir
penji Sunkist p et al.
better stance
5.6
3
Mediterraneo 80’ 14 120’
C2
11b C2
100’ Flight of the Gray
Albatross Ledges
11a
10a wide
or C1 13 125’
2
12a 5.8
Little 165’ some 3 - 4”
John

10a
1
10a
or C1
Rack: hard offset
liebacking -nuts 12c
and tiny cams
ow .3-5”
Salathé Nuts: 1 ea
Wall
Cams: 2 ea .4”-4” 115’ 12
10c Magic
Mushroom Offset Cams: 2-3ea
Free Magic Mushroom
starts on the Muir
Wall, via Moby Dick
Pine
Line

large
ledge

116 | El Capitan
 50’ 29
5.9
200’ 28
5.9+
27 170’
13b 26120’ Magic Mushroom
14a Aid Route
90’ 25
12c
160’ 24
FFA History: In 2008, Tommy Caldwell and 12c
Justen Sjong made the first free ascent. Four Chickenhead
140’ 23 Ledge
years later, Tommy went back and led every
pitch in 20 hours! Magic Mushroom is super 13a
sustained, with a dozen 5.13 to 5.14- pitches 110’
22

10d
and nine 5.12 pitches.
21 100’

14a Shield
Headwall
20 70’

13d
19100’

13c
18 110’
13a
17

5.12
16

13a

15

13b
14 120’
The Heart Grey
11a
Ledges
125’ 13
12c
12 115’

11d
11 165’

10a

Mammoth
150’ 10 Terraces
13b
9 110’
12b
8 130’
5.12
5.9+
The Alcove
7100’
13c
6 110’
Muir Wall 13b
110’ 5
12a ow 120’
120’ 4

11d R
135’ 3

12a or C1
40’ 2
5.8
1 145’

Photo: xRez.com 5.10

117
 Flight of the Albatross VI 5.9 A4
FA: May 1993 - John Middendorf, Will Oxx

Pack it in
Pack it out!
sweet bivy
190’ 28
500’ to top
of Nose

150’ 17
Rack: 4th
1 RURP
A3+ 16 Beaks: 7 ea #1
“Whipper Will” 5 ea #2
4 ea #3 5.7
2 LAs: 1 ea #2, #3 27 80’
A3 beaks 3 Sawed Angles: 1 ea 1/2”-1” 5.7
El Corazón, Free slot
Magic Mushroom Nuts: 2 ea micro, 1 ea regular or
120’ 16 Cams: 3-4 ea .4-1.5” C1

18”x6’ reachy hook 2 ea 2”-4” 70’ 26

C2
ledge
1 ea 5”
P P
This route name commemorates Will Oxx's Beam
C1 9 Heads: 3 ea #2-#4 10d slab
or or
tradition of BASE jumping off of El Capitan Flake 13a Hooks: 2 ea C1
25 100’
after each ascent. Pioneer Randy Leavitt, 2 Camhooks: 1 ea narrow, wide
who established Scorched Earth and Lost 15-20 Rivet Hangers link 24 & 25
C2+ w. 60m rope
In America on El Cap, started this tradition 15 195’ or
13b
in the 1980s.
Beak 24 100’
Flake C2 5”
5.8
A2 or or
13b C1 C2

23 120’
belay
here if doing Chieftain Ledge
original start 80’ 30’x3’ sloping ledge .4-4”
Dorn C2 Skylab
Magic Mushroom, 5.6 Direct
Sunkist
14 120’
5.8 5.6 Muir
55’ et al. Chickenhead Ledge C3
or A2
sloping, 30’x9’
use portaledge 22 130’ FOTA, Shield
C3 finish on
140’ or 11a Grey Ledges Magic heads Magic Mushroom
ok bivy for 2-3 Mushroom few C2+
13 125’
or A2
.4-1.5” exp
5.8
C1 3”- 5”
or 12c
40’
150’ to Chickenhead
A2
Jolly Original 130’ 21
Roger 180’ A2
Start 12 115’ Quixote Ledge
good bivy for 2, ok bivy for 3
Magic
Mushroom Shield
4” “Walk the Plank” A4 beak tips
C1 or
11d

11 140’
20 95’
C1 The Canoe A2
Muir 2’x20’ ledge
Jolly
Roger 5.8
Son or
of C1
Heart
19 140’
125’ 10 A2 beaks, sawed
10
Heart angles
Route few .3-.75”
A2 Salathé
dirt

115’

The FA team started from Heart

5.5 Magic Ledges, but thought so little of the
18 130’
Mushroom
Salathé first 6 pitches that they recommend
climbing from Mammoth Terraces
via Magic Mushroom. Most parties
A2 or C3
climb the first 10 pitches of
.3-1”
Heart Ledges Salathé to reach Mammoth
5 ropes to Terraces.
ground Muir

17

118 | El Capitan
 28 200’

80’ 27 5.7
5.10 or C2
Flight of the Albatross is a mostly cruiser 70’ 26 10d or C2
path up the stunning Shield headwall 100’ 25 13c or C2+
easily located by it’s iconic Canoe flake, 24 100’

similarly detached like the Boot Flake. 12b or C2

120’ 23
While not nearly as natural or classic as the
Shield, Magic Mushroom or Sunkist, 11d or C3 or A2
Albatross is still a great climb. You get to Chickenhead 22 130’
Ledge C2+ or A2
camp on three plush ledges! Climb this
130’ 21
route after you have ticked off the other The Shield
“Walk the Plank” (A4)
classics. Flight is a natural step up from the
The 95’
Shield or Mescalito. Canoe
20

A2
19 140’
Plan: The FA climbed six pitches of low-an-
gle, dirty cracks above Heart Ledge, I did A2
‘em - no fun, but nowadays folks just climb 130’ 18
Magic Mushroom up to the headwall. Most A2 or C3
17 150’
teams spend three or four nights on the
“Whipper Will” (A3)
wall. This is a summer climb, as it is usually
cool and windy. 120’ 16
“Beam Flake” (C1 or 13a)
The Elements/Retreat: The Shield head- 15 195’
wall is super exposed, so not a good place
in a storm. Climb prepared! Retreat by
“Beak Flake” (A2 or 13b)
rappelling the route, penjis and down-aid-
ing required. MM
The Heart 14 120’
Grey
FA History: John Middendorf discovered 11a or C3 Ledges
and scoped this line in the late 80s, but it 125’ 13
wasn’t until May 1993 that he and Will Oxx 12c or C1
12 115’
made the first ascent. Magic
Original 11d or C1 Mushroom
Why so much time between discovery and Start 11 165’

the first ascent? There have always been 10a or C1

differing opinions, a la Robbins vs. Harding
on the Dawn Wall, about how “natural” a 10

line needs to be to be climbable, or “worth Mammoth

it,” as Robbins put it. Middendorf thought Terraces
when he discovered it that the route would
require too many bolts, but as time went
on he changed his mind. Half
Dollar
The climb went smoothly, thanks to the
trusty espresso maker that Oxx brought
along. Will and John topped out after seven
days. The route name comes from Oxx’s
custom of BASE jumping down after his
climbs - he is definitely the only El Cap
veteran to have never carried haul bags Free
down the East Ledges descent! Blast

Photo: xRez.com

119
 12 175’

The Shield VI 5.6 C4 or A3

FA: October 1972 - Charlie Porter, Gary Bocarde
.3-3”
Pack it in
Pack it out!
12b
200’ sweet bivy 500’ to top or
29 of Nose C2 (many tiny cams)
Magic 11 190’
130’ 20 Mushroom 10b
or
C1 .5-2” Pharaoh Ledge
Rack: C3 Son
of
sloping
9-10 Beaks: 2 ea #1, #2 or
A2 Heart 10
Triple 10 110’
4th 5-6 ea #3 Cracks 30’
4 LAs: 2 ea #2, #3 Heart Most parties
Route good bivy .5-2” pre-haul to Mammoth
Nuts: 2 ea micro, 1 ea regular offset 160’ for 4+ via the Heart Ledges
5.7 fixed lines
Mammoth or
Cams: 2 ea .3” Terraces C1
19 100’
5.7 3 ea .4”-1.25”
few “The Hang” belay
2 ea 1.5”-4” .3-1” C3+ Heart Ledges takes 9 110’
28 80’ .75-2”
1 ea 5” or
A3 The
fixed junk Groove 5.7
Offset Cams: 2 ea Mediterraneo
5.7 Magic
slot 5 Heads: 1 ea #2 Muir Mushroom
2 ea #3, #4 Heart Rap Turning
5.10 or C2 3 Hooks: 1 ea Talon, Grappling, 18 165’ Route Point
70’ 27
Cliffhanger 8 120’
P P C2 4 Camhooks: 2 ea narrow, wide 5 ropes
10d incredible 5.8
face C1 thin to ground Half
slab chimney
splitter Dollar
26 100’
1-4” 10b slick
or
C1+
C2+ link 25 & 26 belay takes p p p
or w. 60m rope 1-2”
7 120’
13b C2 wet
5.9
17 90’ or
C1
25 100’
5” 5.8 move left
Shield Roof C2+ or A2 wild
5.8 many fixed
or Dorn PP pieces
C1 Direct 6 110’
16 160’
C2
24 120’ Triangle
Ledge
Chieftain Ledge retreat
30’x3’ sloping ledge “The Traverse” 5.8 A0
route (first pitch of or 11a
.4-4” Shield)
C2
Skylab C3 or 5 90’
A2 False
Shield
5.9 A0
11d or C3 or 11b
or A2+ 160’ 15
Chickenhead Ledge Muir, Triple Direct 10d
sloping, 30’x9’ 23 90’ flaring pods
Dorn or C2
use portaledge heads Direct
Magic C2+ 4 100’
Mushroom or A2
few exp many
.4-1.5” .4-2” .5-1.5” 10c
or
C1
13b
120’ 22 or
150’ to Chickenhead C2
3 90’
link 3 & 4
Quixote Ledge 14 100’ w. 60m rope
Mediterraneo
good bivy for 2, ok bivy for 3 .5-4.5” 11c
Flight or
of the 5.7
Albatross C3+ C1
or 55’ 2 P
A2 11b or C1
5.5 5.8 fist
21 130’ Magic or C1 link 1 &2
Mushroom
13 195’ 1.5-3.5” w. 60m rope
Grey Ledges Magic 1 150’
C3+ good bivy for 2 Mushroom
or 5.8 chimney
A2 or C2
10c
11d or fingers
C1 or
C1
100’ The Shield starts
on The Salathé &
20
Muir Walls
12d
or camhooks-2.5”
C2
Pine
12 Line

toe of the
Nose

120 | El Capitan
 29 200’

80’ 28 5.7
5.10 or C2
70’ 27 10d or C2
100’ 26 13c or C2+
25 100’

12b or C2
120’ 24 Chickenledge
Ledge
11d or C3 or A2
23 90’

Magic Mushroom C2+ or A2

22
120’
C3+ or A2

Shield Headwall
21 130’
C3+ or A2
C
20 130’

The Shield is in the top five most classic El C3 or A2 Triple Cracks

Cap routes. The Shield Headwall, with its 100’ 19
several-hundred-feet-long perfect splitter C3+ or A3 The Groove
crack, will take your breath away - bigwall 165’ 18
bliss! Once a testpiece, the Shield is very
approachable now, and is considered similar C2
90’ 17
in difficulty to Zodiac - The Shield is longer, Shield Roof C2+ or A2
160’
16
so more involved, so best to climb Zodiac C3 or A2
first if possible. The pitches of RURPs placed “The Traverse”
140’ 15
14 The Muir
on the first ascent have evolved into
bomber #3 beak cracks. The Shield is “The Silverfish” 13b or C2
outrageous climbing in an outrageous 110’ 14
11c or C1 Grey
location! 195’ 13 Ledges

12d or C2
175’ 12 The Muir
12b or C2
10b or C1 Pharoah
180’ 11 Ledge
Mammoth 10
Terraces

Plan: Most folks climb Freeblast one day, and then haul to Mammoth and bivy there the next. Plan
on four to six nights on the wall. Bring a belay seat. The Shield is notoriously cold and windy, so more
of an early summer/summer/ early fall climb. Bring the puffy jackets even in the summer.

The Elements/Retreat: Shield is super exposed, so not a good place in a storm. Climb prepared!
Retreat by rappelling the route. Down-aid the Shield Roof if retreating, and continue rappelling
straight down on independent anchors to reach Grey Ledges (two ropes required).

FA History: Charlie Porter and Gary Bocarde made this historic first ascent in 1972. The Shield
marked a huge leap in aid climbing difficulty. Porter and Bocarde climbed several entire pitches
using only RURPs and knifeblades. The anchors were usually one 1/4” bolt and a couple of pitons. On
the Triple Cracks pitch, Porter placed 35 RURPS, several times lowering down to back clean so he had
enough to finish the pitch. “While cleaning,” recalled Bocarde, “I was pulling the RURPs out with my
hands. If he had fallen, he would have zippered them for sure.” The pair spent five of their seven
nights on the thin headwall pitches. The team didn’t think the climb was such a big deal, at first. “It
wasn’t until we came down and started retelling the stories from the climb that it all sank in. Then I
started to think, Oh man, maybe we should have been more afraid up there!’” explained Bocarde.

Photo: xRez.com 121

 Muir Wall VI 5.8 A2+ or C4 or 5.13c
FA: June 1965 - Yvon Chouinard, TM Herbert
FFA: May 2001 - Tommy Caldwell, Nick Sagar

110’ 19
175’ 13 5.10 move
stance or C2
bivy for 1
5.7 The
.3-3” 12b Direct
or "Keep close to Nature's heart... and
C2 (many tiny cams) 120’ 18
break clear away, once in awhile, and
1’x4’ ledge
climb a mountain or spend a week in
Magic 10b 12 190’ 11b
or
Mush. C1 Pharaoh Ledge sloping Quo or C1 the woods. Wash your spirit clean."
Vadis .3-3” -John Muir
Son of great bivy A2 angle
Heart Heart for 3-4 or C3
190’ 11 False 60’ 17
Route 11 move haulbags
over here Shield 5.9
160’ or C1 P
P
5.8
Mammoth
Terraces
Salathé Shield
.5-1.5” Quo
Vadis
Triple
Direct Crossroads
good bivy
Rack:
for 2 4 Beaks: 2 ea #2, #3
140’ 16 13a var.
10d 27 150’ 4 LAs: 2 ea #2, #3
or 3 Sawed Angles: 1 ea 3/4”-1 1/4”
C2
Salathé .3-2”
Magic
13b Nuts: 2 ea micro, 1 ea regular
Heart Ledges or
good bivy 120’ 10
Mushroom C2 .5-4.5” Cams: 3 ea .3”-.75”, 1.25”-3”
for 5 C2 4-5 ea 1”
2-3 ea 4”,5”
5.8 11c 15 100’
4.5 ropes or C2+ 1 ea 6”
11c
to ground
.5-4.5” or Offset Cams: 2 ea
.5-5” C1 26 100’ 1 Hook: grappling
110’ 9 5.5 C1 4 Camhooks: 2 ea narrow, wide
or
12a NO 2 Heads: 1 ea #2, #3
.5-5” 14 200’ .5-2”
10d Gray Ledges Quo
or Vadis
C1 ok bivy for 2 5.8 chimney The
or C2 Shaft 70’ 25
loose
8 100’ 11d or 3’x6’ ledge
C1 C2F
Heart 5.9+ lb 5.12 heads
Ledges or C1 100’ (The Direct)
Rappels P
11b .5-5” camhooks - 3” PP 12d 24 120’
or C2 or
C2
100’ 7 13 thin reachy The
A2 Shaft
or 500’ to top of Nose
C3F
5.10 .6-3” Magic
or Mushroom bulge 3rd class
C1+ fix line & shuttle
preMuir 23 140’ haul bags
5.7
6 60’ mantel 30 90’
130’ haul
230’ to “8a Traverse” 110’ from 28
Little John C2
5 13c or A2
from 6 .3-1.5” or C3
13b or C2+ .4-1.5” Quo Vadis
P

29 130’ P
Magic .5-4.5”
12a Mushroom False 22 130’
or C1+ Shield 5.8 and
slab A2
tension
.4-2” or
The PreMuir C3
Direct A2 or C4 thin Quo
Jolly 120’ 4 Vadis 80’ 28
Roger Quo P
huge Vadis A2+
11d R corner or
or 21 165’ C4
C2+ belay takes
.6-1”
Little Magic 1’x3’ ledge
27
John 135’ 3 Mushroom
140’ 11b
to ground or .5-3”
C1 12a or C1
12a awesome
or 1” forever
C1 2 80’
sweet ledge .6-2”
150’ 5.8
The upper third of the central portion
Original 130’1 1 Free Muir
start of El Capitan is composed of Taft Granite.
20 110’ Taft Granite is very silicic and thus
5.9+
squeeze Ahab 11d or harder to fracture than the other rock
5.9 C1
fist 10b 5.10 squeeze
types that make up El Capitan. Therefore,
squeeze or C1+ some geologists hypothesize that the
5.10
Muir starts
on Moby Dick 150’ to
splitter cracks and dihedrals characteristic
Pine Line 19
19 of the Muir Wall are a result of the rock
type it is located in.
122 | El Capitan
 30 90’
C2
5.10 29 130’
A2 or C3
10d 80’
28

The Muir Wall, with 30 nearly bolt-free pitches, 13c A2+ or C4

27 150’
is epic. The position is stunning, and the ledges 12b
C2
are plentiful and cool. The climbing is never too 11d
Ledge
hard, though this is a big step up from the Chickenhead For One 100’
26

Nose - half step up from the Salathé. The C1

Ledge
12a 25 70’
splitter upper dihedral pitches are arguably C2F 24 120’
some of Yosemite’s best. The
A2 or C3F
Premuir 12d
140’ 23
Plan: The best advice I can give is to make sure 13c or 120’
you prehaul to Heart Ledge. Day one fix to A2 or C3 12a
130’ 22 The
pitch 3, and then prehaul if you have time - or 110’ Shaft
prehaul on day two. Either way start early on 12c
A2 or C4 165’ 21 100’ (free var.)
the day you blast - the lower pitches can be 12b
wide, awkward and slow. Most teams spend 12a or C1 30’ 12b
20110’
four to six nights on the wall.
11d or C1
19110’
The Elements/Retreat: The Muir is a bad
place to be in a storm. Climb prepared, and 5.10 or C2
18 120’
rappel before things get really bad. To retreat, 60’ 17 Crossroads
rappel the route - thankfully there are usually 5.9 C1 or 5.13
140’ 16 Ledge
fixed ropes down from Mammoth Terrace. Silverfish
13b 11b or A2 or C3
or C2
Corner 15 100’
FA History: Yvon Chouinard and TM Herbert 11d or C1
made climbing history when they climbed the Grey 14 200’

Muir Wall in 1965: it was the first time a route Ledges

on El Cap was established without fixed ropes,
and with no prior knowledge of the route. The 12d or C2
175’ 13
Muir Wall was not the first two man FA team - Pharaoh
that was on West Buttress in 1963. The duo Ledge 12b or C2+
started up with just two 50-pound haulbags, 10b or C1 12 190’
holding only the essentials and a meager bolt
kit. Mammoth
Heart 11 190’ Terraces
Ledge
Eight days were required for this monster 10d or C2
climb, and Chouinard and Herbert battled 10 120’
oppressive heat as well as storms. By the time 11c or C2+
110’ 9
they got to the upper dihedrals, they were fully
10d or C1
‘in the zone’. “At this point the route becomes
vague in my mind,” recalls Chouinard, “The
8100’
artificial climbing blends into the free. The 11b or C2
7 100’
corners, dihedrals, jamcracks, bulges, are all
5.10 or C1+
indistinguishable parts of the great, overhang-
ing wall. The pitches never end, and one day 60’ 6 5 110’
13b 12a or C1+
merges into another.” 4 120’
or C2+
“8a Traverse” 11d R or C2+
Royal Robbins became the first person to solo
135’ 3
El Cap when he soloed the Muir Wall in 1968.
12a or C1
40’ 2 5.8
1 145’
Moby
Photo: xRez.com Dick 5.10
123
 14 200’
Grey Ledges
200’ 4th ok bivy for 2 5.8 chimney

The Shaft (Free Muir Wall) VI 5.13c

to belay tree
5.7
11d or
33 80’ FFA: May 2001 - Tommy Caldwell, Nick Sagar C1
100’
5.7
slot PreMuir VI 5.13c P
P 12d
FFA: May 2007 - Rob Miller, Justin Sjong P or C2
5.10
camhooks-3”
70’ 32 175’ 13
bivy for 1
PP
slab
10d
PreMuir(p) Rack: .3-3” 12b
or
C2 (many tiny cams)
31 100’ Nuts: 1 set offset
4 #5 offset brass nuts
12 190’
Ball Nuts: 1 medium Magic 10b
13c Mush.
or C2+ Pharaoh Ledge
Cams: 2 ea .2”-.33” sloping
Son of great bivy
3 ea .4”-1” Heart Heart for 3-4
190’ 11 11 haul from
2 ea 2” Route here
30 100’ 160’
5” 1 ea 3”,4”
5.8 Mammoth Salathé
5.8 Terraces

12b
or C2
10d
29 120’ Salathé
Chieftain Heart Ledges
Ledge good bivy 120’ 10 Magic
5.10 for 5 Mushroom
20’x3’ blocky

C3 11c
or A2 or C2+
11d 4.5 ropes
to ground
Chickenhead Ledge 28 12a Muir .5-4.5”
30’x9’ sloping 10b
use portaledge p28 100’ 110’ 9

27
Magic 70’ 26
.5-5”
Mush. loose
The 10d
Shield 1’x6’ ledge
12a
12d or C2F 8 100’
p
Heart 5.9+ lb
120’ 25 Ledges or C1
80’ p27
Rappels
12b 11b .5-5”
or C2
loose A2
or 12d
flakes C3F stem 100’ 7

p26 50’ sustained

chimney .6-3”
Magic
13a 5.10 Mush.
140’
p25
12a 6 110’
110’ 19 bulge 120’ 24 230’ to “8a Traverse” 110’
19 Little John
13a lb 5
5.11 ow from 6
nice ledge 5.10
13b or C2+
.3-1.5” death block
pins
5.7 13c stemming helpful
or C3/A2 12a
Magic
12a Mushroom
120’ 18 50’ p24 The or C1+
Shaft
1’x4’ ledge The .4-2”
12a
Direct
slab
11b PreMuir 23 100’ Jolly 120’ 4
or C3 Turning Roger
.3-3” Point huge
12c corner
11d R
60’ 17 P C3 or
False thin C2+
Shield 5.9
.5-1.5” P 5.11
P Little Magic
Shield 165’
Triple John 135’ 3 Mushroom
Direct 22 100’ 140’
to ground 11b
or .5-3”
140’ 16 13a C1
C1 12b 12a
.6-2” thin lb or
C1 2 80’
.3-2” many 1” sweet ledge
13b/c lb
or 5.8
C2 150’
21 30’
Muir original 130’1 1
Wall start
15 100’ 12b 5.9+
110’ 20 traverse squeeze Ahab
11c around arête 5.9
.5-5” or fist 10b
C1 11d or squeeze
C1
5.5 Muir starts 5.10
5.10 squeeze on Moby Dick 150’ to
Pine Line
14 200’
110’ 19

124 | El Capitan
 33

5.10
32

10d 31
13c
30

12b
Platinum Wall (5.13+)
FFA History: In 2001, Tommy Caldwell and 29
11d
Ledge
Nick Sagar climbed the Muir Wall free. In 1994 Chickenhead For One
28
Kurt Smith, Scott Cosgrove, and Greg Epper- Ledge
12a 27 26 70’
son had spent months working out the free 25 120’
The
variations - the free route finishes on a
Premuir 12d
seven-pitch variation; but incredibly, after 140’ The
months of effort they came up 20 feet short 13c 120’
24
Shaft
when they were unable to free a short 5.13c 12a
130’
section just two pitches from the top. 110’ 23
12c
Platinum Wall (5.13+) 165’ 100’ 22

Kurt, Scott and Greg replaced and added 12b

12a 21 30’ 12b
many bolts on their free attempt. The anchors 20110’

that are now used on the Heart Ledges fixed

11d
lines were drilled during their climb. At the 19 110’
summit, the rangers met them and fined them 5.10
for using a power drill, but Smith had served 18 120’
extensively on Search and Rescue so the fine 5.13 60’ 17 Crossroads
Ledge
was reduced. The effect of the ticket and 140’ 16
13b 11b
litigation was that the team lost their psyche Silverfish
Corner
to go back and finish their free attempt - they 15 100’

were thwarted by only 20 feet! 11d

Grey 14 200’
Ledges
It’s noteworthy that on Lurking Fear, West
Buttress, Dihedral Wall, and Muir Wall Tommy 12d
175’ 13
took over an abandoned project where the
Pharaoh
heavy lifting of putting in tons of bolts, and Ledge 12b
working out the unique free route, had or C1 12 190’
already been done. Not saying that that is a
bad thing, just interesting. This is in contrast to Mammoth
Heart 11 190’ Terraces
say Sean Jones, who found and established Ledge
many long free routes in the Valley and 10d
surrounding areas - putting in tons of work to 10 120’
consolidate trails and use bomber bolts. 11c
110’ 9
10d
8100’
11b
7 100’

5.10
60’ 6 5 110’
13b 12a
4 120’
“8a Traverse”
11d R
135’ 3

12a
40’ 2 5.8
1 145’
Moby
Dick 5.10
Photo: xRez.com
125
 Golden Gate VI 5.13a
haul off left anchor FA: October 2000 - Alexander Huber, Max Reichel
12 140’

12” Magic Mushroom,

El Corazon, Corazón 100’ 34
5.8 210’
squeeze Muir

Hollow
10” P
5.9R P
80’
11 .75-2” 30’
8 8 220’
Rack: 11b p
p
Flake 7” Nuts: 1 ea micro, 1 ea regular p
4th 5.9 move
Son 160’ good bivy .5-2” Cams: 2-3 ea .3”- 4” ow (5 - 8”) or C2
of for 4+
12a 10 150’ Heart
Mammoth
5.7 1-2 ea 5”,7” 33 80’
5.9+
Lung Ledge 10d
good bivy for 3 10b Terraces 4 - 6 Alpine Draws Golden Eagle Ledge
or C1
p
.75-2” 11a
11d Heart Ledges p 110’ 5.10
downclimb 11c 5.6
9 “Fat City” knobs
Bermuda 100’ 32
Dunes good bivy for 5
Magic Razor 11a
Heart Rap Muir Mushroom 5.7 Blade Son
Route of
5 ropes Heart
to ground 12a
7 20’ Turning Point
move belay 7 120’
Original Finish
27 40’
Salathé 100’ 5.8 belay takes 1.5 - 2” 31 100’ El Corazón
Half chimney
18 Pacemaker
Dollar Tower to
5.9 the People
squeeze 10b slick 16’ x 3’
1-4”
5.7 11d sloping ledge
1 - 3”
1-2.5” p p p belay takes 1-2” wide p 40’
11a flake 6 120’ p 26
11c (not as ow 11a No
tight hands as it looks) “A5 Traverse” p
(sandbag) 60m 5.9 30’
40’ 30
haul to 19 p p p p 29 link 26 & 27
belay takes 1” - 1.5” 140’p 17 13a 12a finger 5.9
5.8 move left or A3+ size cams 1.5” - 2”
great bivy El Cap
for 4 Spire
100’ 28
10a No
cracks 25 100’
in back 5 110’
of chimney “Golden Desert” The Heart
crux 8”
The Alcove - good bivy for 4 13a Route
(popular to split this pitch) Triangle takes
Ledge thin -fingers 10a
10a ow gear ow
6.5”
16 150’
5.8 A0 (A4) Chickenwing
or Chimney
11a
200’ 13c 11d
11a or C1+ 4 125’ 5.12 finger-sized
ow cams and
.5-4” 5.9 A0 or nuts face climb
27
Monster 11b right of
10d Fist crack
Crack or
C1 10d Tower to 100’ 24
flaring pods the People
The Heart
13a Route
15 90’
3 100’ move

11d The .5-1.5” 10c p

Ear “The Move”
5.7 Chimney
1-6.5” 12a
180’ link 2 & 3 p
w. 60m rope
10d 10d A few .75 camalot 170’
thin placements on pitch, 23
2 90’ but still sporty p
hands 14 195’

.5-2” Mediterraneo The Huber Brothers have freed Grade VI and VII
10a 10c
10c climbs on every continent with cliffs wet
5.7
large enough to host such climbs. Perhaps their
205’ 1 P 11b
or C1 most impressive feat is their 2009 first free ascent
Free Heart p
Route 5.8 fist of The Eternal Flame (VI 5.13a) on Nameless
rap with 1.5-3” Tower (6,239 m) in the Karakoram. watch rope-
one 70m rope drag
150’
.5-3” 110’ to
165’ 13 ground
10a 10c R
best belay
if hauling 10c
Magic fingers
115’ Mushroom
Golden Gates starts 22 100’
5.7 after the first 17.5 pitches
of Salathé Wall 115’ 20 Pacemaker
10d R
or A3
5.7 5.8
chimney 10a small
40’ nuts
Pine p
Line 18 21 belay takes tiny -1” cams
12 140’
50’
large 13a
ledge reachy
19 The Heart Route,
downclimb Pacemaker
on large white dike
(crux of the route)

126 | El Capitan
 38
100’
11b
Golden Eagle Ledge 37 80’
11a
36 100’

The Razorblade (11a)

100’
35

“A5 Traverse” (13a) 11a

40’ 34 30’
100’ 32
33
12a
“Golden Desert” 13a
31 40’
Tower to the People 11d
30 40’
5.9
29 100’

Chickenwing Chimney (11d)

28 100’ Golden Gate has every style of climbing:
“The Move” (13a) 27 50’ boulder problems, endurance sport pitches,
10c traverses, wide climbing, overhanging
26 100’
pumpy jug hauls, downclimbing, friction
The Salathé 10c slabs, handcracks, tips laybacking, you name
25 100’
100’ 23 it. It's kind of a taste of everything. This epic
“The Downclimb” (13a) 10a 10d R route in a spectacular location is a logical
24 100’
100’ 21
11c 22
50’ 5.8 step up from Freerider. - Emily Harrington
El Cap 20 140’

Spire 10a The

150’ 19 Alcove
The
Monster 13c or C1+
Offwidth
(11a) 18 90’
11d The Ear
10d
17 120’

10c
105’
16

10a
15 115’

5.7
14 140’
Hollow
Flake (5.9 R) 13 80’

4th
10
10 Mammoth
110’
Lung 12 150’
10d 5.7 Terraces
Ledge 120’ 9
11c 11 160’
5.7
Heart 120’ 8
Ledge The Half
10b Dollar
7 140’
5.9

140’ 6 Triangle Ledge

11a
5 125’
Free
Blast 11b

4 100’
10c
90’ 3

55’ 2 11b
5.8
1 150’

10c 127
 The Salathé Wall
In September 1961, Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, and Chuck Pratt started up the Salathé Wall,
determined to establish a bold and clean style of bigwall climbing. They spent three days climbing
to Heart Ledges and returned to the ground to resupply. Two days later, they ascended to their high
point, jettisoned all but three of their ropes, and pushed for the summit – cutting off any easy retreat
or rescue should things go wrong. Along the way they encountered runout face climbing, horrifying
wide cracks, and state-of-the-art nailing. All members of the team were among the best rock climbers
of the day, and they pushed each other accordingly. After nine and a half days of climbing spread over
12 days, having placing only 13 bolts (all before pitch 7), the team stood on the summit and Robbins
declared the route “possibly the best in the world.”

Three years earlier, Warren Harding and partners had broken the psychological barrier presented by
the size of El Cap. In contrast to the bohemian attitude and siege tactics employed by Harding on
the first ascent of The Nose, Robbins and his team set themselves to pushing the physical barrier of
what could be free climbed or aided without bolts. They wore “klettershoes,” with high tops and thick
rubber lug soles. These were heavy and clumsy compared to today’s shoes. For tying in, they used
“swami belts” – many loops of one-inch webbing wrapped around the waist. The climbing rope tied
into it with a bowline, and they used only pitons and hooks for protection. Thus they conquered
top-level face climbing and unprotectable wide cracks.

Despite the groundbreaking nature of this climb, Robbins viewed the use of fixed lines as a blemish
on an otherwise flawless ascent. He returned, the next spring, with Frost and TM Herbert to settle
the score, but the trio had to bail below the Alcove. Later in1962, Robbins finally succeeded to climb
the entire route without fixed ropes over three days with Tom Frost. This is an accomplishment few
teams manage today, even with sticky rubber, large cams, and modern haul systems. Given that most
modern teams still fear the free climbing on the Salathé and use the perennially fixed lines to Heart
Ledges, Robbins’ and Frost’s ascent was truly remarkable.

Royal Robbins Tom Frost

Salathé first ascent photos

courtesy of Tom Frost
 33

Salathé Wall Facts

Long
29 Ledge First ascent: September 1961 - Royal Robbins, Tom
Frost, Chuck Pratt
The First free solo ascent: 2018 - Alex Honnold (Freerider)
Headwall
The First solo ascent: 1972 - Peter Haan
Round Table
The First free ascent: June 1988 - Todd Skinner, Paul Piana
Roof First person to free every pitch: 1995 - Alex Huber
Sous
Le Toit
25 First female free ascent: October 2005 - Steph Davis
The First free attempt: 1979 - Mark Hudon, Max Jones
Block (all but ~250’)
The
Sewer
Number of bolts placed on the first ascent: 13
(all below pitch 7)
Number of pitons used on the first ascent: 55

El Cap Typical ascent time: 3-5 days

Spire 20 Number of days spent on the first ascent: 9.5 days
The
Alcove (over 12 days)
The First one-day ascent: 14:01 June 1989 - Rick Cashner,
Monster Steve Schneider
Offwidth 18 Fastest ascent: 4:55 - May 2012 - Sean Leary,
Alex Honnold
The Ear Fastest free solo ascent: 3:56 - June 2018 -
Alex Honnold (Freerider)

Number of offwidth/chimney pitches: 6

14 Mammoth Number of rock types on Salathé Wall: 5

Hollow Terraces Time span over which most rock of Salathé Wall was
Flake 10
12 assembled: ~2 million years

Lung Freerider first ascent (also first one day ascent):

Ledge
Heart The Half 15:25 - October 1998 - Alex Huber,
Ledges Dollar Thomas Huber
First flash ascent: 2014 - Pete Whittaker (Freerider)
Fastest rope solo ascent: November 2016 - Pete
6 Whittaker (Freerider)
First solo free ascent: May 2007 - Stephane Perron
Number of ascents: <50
Amount of terrain shared between Salathé Wall and
Freerider: ~87%

“It was perfectly clear to us that given sufficient time,

fixed ropes, bolts and determination, any section of any
rock wall could be climbed. To remove this certitude
which tends to diminish our joy in climbing, we planned
an attempt involving two [short] efforts.”
-Royal Robbins
Freerider Photo: xRez.com El Capitan | 129
 Salathé Wall VI 5.9 C2 or 5.13
FA: September 1961- Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, Chuck Pratt "I find that rock climbing is the
FFA: 1988- Todd Skinner, Paul Piana finest, most healthiest sport

Freerider VI 5.13a in the whole world. It is much

healthier than most; look at
FA: May 1998 - Alex Huber
baseball, where 10,000 sit on
haul off left bolts 14 140’ their ass to watch a handful of
Salathé Rack: rap route Magic
players." -John Salathé
Nuts: 2 ea micro, 1 ea regular offset (two 60m 12” Mushroom
ropes )
Cams: 2 ea .3”-.5” 5.8 Muir
squeeze 10” P Son of
3-4 ea .5”-3” 80’ Heart 10
5.9R P 10 110’
Hollow 13
.75”-2” 30’
1-2 ea 4”, 5”, 8” Flake 7”
4th class Heart
Offset Cams: 2 ea Route 160’ good bivy .5-2”
for 4+
Hooks: 1 ea grappling or cliffhanger 12a 12 150’ 5.7
Lung Ledge Mammoth or
10b 10d Terraces
2 Camhooks: 1 ea narrow, wide good bivy for 3 or C1
C1
.75-2”
Freerider Rack: 11d
downclimb 11c Heart Ledges
belay
takes
.75-2”
9 120’
Nuts: 1 ea micro to regular offset Bermuda or C1 11
Dunes
Cams: 2 ea .3”- 3” good bivy for 5
Magic 5.7
1ea 4”, 5” Mushroom Mediterraneo
Muir
1-2 ea 8” (for Monster Offwidth)
Heart Rap Turning
Route 8 20’ Point
move belay 120’
180’ 26 8
12b( 12d if intermediate
or belay not used)
C2 5 ropes total Half 5.8
.75-3” to ground chimney
100’ Dollar
F32
mega friction - extend Enduro
75’ 33 haul to the lip!
11c Corner 1-3.5”
10b slick or C1+
or bomber nut
C2 belay takes p p p just before move
5.6 1-2”
7 120’

70’ 32 160’ 25 belay takes 1” - 1.5” 140’ P 20 Bermuda 5.9

great bivy Dunes or
F31 Sous le Toit for 4 El Cap C1
5.9 crack in poor bivy So Good! Spire
or C1 back for 1 10b 5.8 move left
or 1”
10d pp 31 100’ C1 10a
or C1 slab F30 cracks in the
C2 back of chimney 6 110’
or NO
5.5 10d The Alcove
10c 40’ F good bivy for 4
loose
flakes 10a 10a ow
or C1 6.5” Triangle
10d or Ledge
or 5.7 C1 19 150’
195’ F29 C1 flakes 24 195’ 5.8 A0
100’ 30 200’ 13c or 11a
(1”, 1.5” pieces) ok bivy for 2
10d The
NO or C1+
11a 5 125’
5.9 hands Block ow
(10a if not linked) double extend,
5.8 P Monster
.5-4” or back clean 5.9 A0 or
11d Bermuda 140’ Offwidth 10d fist farthest left 11b
var. watch The bolt to lessen
NO Dunes or C1
10d 11d or C2 rope drag Sewer rope drag
P 10d
ow P hidden crack 10c
(cruxy lb above bolt) or C2 flaring pods
29
at end of ledge or C2
60’ 18 90’
belay takes 40’ 4 100’
Long Ledge
.3-1” 13b good bivy for 2, ok for 3 The
or 11d Ear
11d C2 .5-1.5” 10c
deep fingers link 28 & 29 5.7 Chimney or
& hands w. 60m rope 23 150’ 1-6.5” C1
20
130’ 28 180’ F
‘Karate Kick’
13a P
F28 130’ or “The Boulder 10d 10d or C1
C1 12d C1 Problem, 13a” thin
10d P hands 17 120’ 90’
.4-2.5” Teflon P 3
fingers 19
Salathé
Corner link 3 & 4
.5-2” w. 60m rope
12a lb .75 camalot Free-10a Mediterraneo
Salathé Headwall or C1
11c R rider 10c
3” Teflon Corner .5-3” blind reach or
Belay 19 C1 5.7
70’ 27 85’ 60m Free Heart P
to Route 55’ 2 11b or C1
11a .4-1” 13a 22
18 Spire
hands or 16 105’ 5.8 fist link 1 &2
F27 C2 60m 5.5 or C1 w. 60m rope
The Roof to rap with
80’ 1.5-3.5”
Spire 10b one 70m rope
The Round 1 150’
C1+ or 12a or
26 C1
Table 12a/b .5-3” 110’ to
21 130’ ground
Freerider 10a
5.9 Golden Gate or Magic
squeeze C1 Mushroom 10c
Retreat: or
C1 15 115’ fingers
or C1
If retreating above the Ear, rappel 1-2.5” 11a flake 5.7
11c (not as ow
straight down on anchors from a tight hands as it looks)
nearby route (Bermuda Dunes). If or 5.7
C1 Pine
chimney Line
retreating below the Ear rappel P 20
back down the route to Heart El Cap 14
Ledge, and continue down the fixed Spire toe of the
Nose
lines.

130 | El Capitan
 32
10d or C1
31
10d or C1
f29 30 100’

11d or C2 Long
60’ 29 Ledge
13b or C2
Freerider
f28 28
130’ The
13a or C2 Headwall
Salathé and the Nose share the throne for
27 70’
f27
The the two greatest rock climbs on Earth. If the
The Round Table
180’ 26
Nose is the Yin - or the more receptive and
Roof (12a or C2)
12d or C2 forgiving energy of the pair - the Salathé is
Enduro
Sous Yang personified: here you will have to
25 160’ Corner
Le Toit adeptly change cracks, bust free moves,
10d or C2 The squeak up slabs, wrestle burly chimneys and
160’ 24 Block
offwidths - basically use every tool in your
The 10c or C2
Sewer climber’s tool bag to eke out an ascent.
23 150’

“The Boulder
Salathé is amazing! It is more the 5.10 free
Teflon Problem” climbers route, where the Nose is approach-
Corner (13a) able at a 5.8 C2 rating. Unless you’re an
22 85’
(12d)
10d or C1 offwidth-chimney master, Salathé feels twice
21 130’
as hard as the Nose but is probably only half
El Cap 11c or C1
20 140’
again as hard. The roof and headwall will
Spire The
10a blow your mind!
150’ 19 Alcove
The
Monster 13c or C1+ The Elements/Retreat: Freeblast is shady
Offwidth until mid morning. Salathé follows long
(11a) 18 90’ crack systems, which quickly turn to icy
11d The Ear rivers in a storm. Climb prepared! To retreat
10d or C1 before the Ear, rappel the route back to
17 120’

Heart Ledges. From the top of the Ear you

10c or C1
can rap straight down on another route’s
105’
16
(Bermuda Dunes) anchors.
10a or C1
15 115’

5.7
14 140’
Hollow
Flake (5.9 R) 13 80’

4th
10
10 Mammoth
110’
Lung 12 150’
10d 5.7 Terraces
Ledge 120’ 9
11c or C1 11 160’ 5.7
Heart 120’ 8
Ledge The Half
10b or C1+ Dollar
7 140’
5.9
Plan: It’s best to climb Freeblast on day one, and then haul to
Heart on day two - or possibly continue to Lung Ledge. This way, 140’ 6 Triangle Ledge
you will not have to wonder about the conditions of the fixed 11a or 5.8 A0
ropes as you inspect them on rappel. Bring a knife and bring 5 125’
Free
down any knotted or worn lines, and replace ‘em if you can! Blast 11b or 5.9 A0
From here, progress depends entirely on your experience and
your enthusiasm to bust free moves. Good bivy ledge space is 4 100’
generally available at Heart Ledges, The Alcove, El Cap Spire, The 10c or C1
Block, and Long Ledge. Plan on three or four nights on the wall. 90’ 3
The Hollow Flake is the free climbing crux for most folks, but 55’ 2 11b or C1
Freeblast has a few manadatory face moves too. One 8” cam will 5.8
1 150’
get you through the 5.9 part. Bring the camhooks for the thin
10c or C1
pitches, and some folks have even been known to use a
hand-placed #3 beak on the headwall.
Photo: xRez.com 131
 Rack: Free Salathé Wall VI 5.13b/c
FFA: 1988 - Todd Skinner, Paul Piana
Nuts:1 ea
Cams: 2 ea .3”-3”
1 ea 4”, 5”
Freerider VI 5.13a Scramble down to lowest anchor for downclimb.
FA: May 1998 - Alex Huber If only one person wants to free, then leader
1-2 ea 8” (for the Monster Offwidth) down-climbs and second raps (on a rope that is
Offset Cams: 1ea usually fixed). If both climbers want to free
climb, it can be nice to have a second rope
stashed at Heart, so the leader can
haul off left bolts 11 140’ down-climb, and then tie the two ropes
together to belay the second down, on toprope.
As of 2020, projecting Freerider has rap route
(two 12”
become very popular. Teams often 60m
ropes ) Most folks climb Freeblast
hike to the summit and rap in, to 10” P Muir, Triple Direct first, to check out the
practice the upper pitches. Please be 80’ 8
5.9R P 8 250’ climbing, and get their
Hollow 10 30’
respectful of teams climbing from the Flake 7” . (1” piece nice)
4th class (5.0) bearings on the Big Stone.
ground, and try to minimize fixed 160’ good bivy .5-2”
for 3 The climbing is polished,
ropes on this popular route. Always 12a
Lung Ledge
10 150’
Mammoth and challenging,
10d Terraces
work together, and help each other good bivy for 3 10b
p similar to the rest of the
.75” (.3 BD) piece .75-2” 5.7
out! in broken crack about belay p Salathé. Freeblast is a
level with belay 11d 11c Heart Ledges takes 110’ good practice climb
downclimb 9 .75-2”
Bermuda because there are usually
Dunes
one super good bivy for 5 fixed ropes from
hard move - Magic 5.7
place gear
on the easy bit
Mushroom Mammoth Terrace to the
Muir
before Heart Rap ground, so you can climb
Route Freeblast with one 60m
7 20’
5 ropes (usually fixed) total
move belay
rope and just rappel down
180’ 23 to ground. 7 120’
12b (12d if intermediate on the fixed lines. If the
or belay is not used) 5.8 lines are missing, you will
C2 17 130’
chimney
.75-3” need two 60m ropes to
100’ 5.9 Golden Gate anchor, Half
Enduro squeeze don’t stop here rappel.
(5.7 outside Dollar
Corner of squeeze) 1-4”
11c (sandbag) 10b slick (sandbag)
1-2.5” bomber nut
hands, narrowing 11a flake belay takes p p p just before
down to fingers 11c (not as ow 1-2” move
F29 tight hands as it looks) 6 120’
mega friction - extend (sandbag)
75’ 30 haul to the lip!
160’ 22
belay takes 1” - 1.5”140’ p
16
Sous le Toit Bermuda
poor bivy great bivy Dunes 5.9
5.6 for 1 10b 1” for 4 El Cap
Spire
70’ F28 29
10a cracks in 5 110’
NO back of chimney
5.9 10c
(squeeze, take crack in loose
off helmet and clip to you) back The Alcove Triangle
flakes (best sheltered bivy for 4) Ledge
10d 28 F27 100’
5.7 10a ow
pitches link, slab flakes 6.5”
but only if you 5.5 21 195’ 11a
15 200’
backclean 10d roof
10d The ok bivy for 2
hands 4” cam then 13c (150’ pitch if 4 125’
10d (10a if Block head right you climb this way) double extend,
glory done in two pitches) or back clean 11b/c
impossible to 195’ F26 farthest left
hear from previous ringlocks 140’ Monster
100’ 27 watch The .5-4” bolt to lessen
belay - have a plan Offwidth (11a) rope drag
for communication NO rope drag Sewer 10d fist
using rope tugs, etc. 10c 6.7” 10d - flaring, so Totems
5.9 use long clip bolt so pieces offset nuts and cams
are key
5.8 R P slings! F don’t get pulled into
11d chimney 3 100’
Bermuda 14 90’
10d var. NO Dunes Rap to Heart
ow P The with one 70m .5-1.5” 10c
(cruxy lieback P hidden crack 11d rope (difficult
at end of ledge 6.7” Ear because it is
above bolt) 26 1-6.5” 5.7+ very sideways)
60’ 23 150’
20
Long Ledge ‘Karate Kick’ Chimney
13b good bivy for 2, ok for 3 P “The Boulder 180’ F
Salathé
11d 12d C1 Problem, 13a”
P 10d 10d
deep fingers Teflon P thin 2 90’
& hands 19 hands 13 195’
Corner link 2 & 3
130’ 25 w. 60m rope
13a 12a lb .75 camalot Mediterraneo
F25 130’ or C1
11c R Free- .5-2”
Teflon Corner rider 10a
19
.5-3” blind reach 10c 5.7
10d Belay
fingers .4-2.5”
85’ 60m P
to 205’ 1 11b
22
18 Spire
Salathé Headwall 5.8 fist
3” 5.5 105’ from
Ok ledge for
portaledge bivy rap with 1.5-4”
70’ 24 10b one 70m rope 150’ (stop here, and
link to pitch 2,
11a .4-1” 13a .5-3” if worried about
hands 17 130’ 110’ to falling off the
F24 165’ 12 ground short crux
The Roof 5.9 best belay above pitch 1)
80’ 10a
squeeze if hauling 10c
The Round (5.7 if you stay Magic fingers
23 C1+ or 12a wide in the chimney) Mushroom The first 8 - 10 pitches
Table 12a/b Right side in. Stay 115’
1-2.5” (depending on where you
(big reach) out wide in the 5.7 belay) of the Salathe Wall
11c 11a flake are called Freeblast.
impossible to tight hands (not as ow chimney (airy but
hear from previous as it looks)
easier) until you can Pine
belay - have a plan
for communication reach a jug and pull 5.7 Line
using rope tugs, etc. 16 out onto the face. chimney
El Cap Protect with a few
Spire finger sized pieces in toe of the
132 | El Capitan broken cracks.
11
Nose
 32
10d
31
10d
f29 30
100’
11d 60’11d
11d 13b 29
Long Ledge
Freerider
f28 28
130’ The
13a Headwall
11a
27 70’
The Roundtable f27
The
12a/b 180’ 26
Roof (12a or C2)
12d
Enduro
Sous Le Toit 25 160’ Corner
10d
160’ 24 The Block

The Sewer 10c

23 150’
“The
Teflon Corner(12d)
Boulder Problem” (13a)
85’
22

10d
21 130’

11c
El Cap Spire 20 140’

10a The Alcove

150’ 19
The Monster
13c
Offwidth
(11a) The Heart
18 90’

11d The Ear

10d
17 120’

10c
16 105’
10a
15 115’

5.7
14 140’
11d downclimb
Hollow Flake (5.9 R) 80’ 13

4th
10
10 Mammoth
110’
12 150’
10d 5.7 Terraces
Lung Ledge 120’ 9
11c 11 160’
5.7
fingers
120’ 8
Heart 10b The Half Dollar
Ledge slick
7 140’
Rappel 5.9
Route
(Fixed
140’ 6 Triangle Ledge
Lines)
11a
5 125’
Free
Blast 11b

4 100’
10c
90’ 3

55’ 2 11b undercling

5.8 fist
1 150’

10c fingers

Photo: xRez.com
133
 So You Want To
Climb Freerider, Eh?
By Bronwyn Hodgins

You’ve seen it in “Free Solo.” Honnold climbed it before breakfast. How hard
can it be?

Freerider (12d/13a) follows much of the classic route The Salathé, but with
a four-pitch variation that avoids the sustained 5.13 free climbing on the
insanely steep Salathé Headwall. The Freerider variation was pioneered
by Alex Huber and then established free in-a-day in 1998 with his brother
Thomas, claiming the spot for the easiest free line up El Capitan!

Each season hundreds of climbers arrive in The Valley from all over the
world hoping to get on Freerider. Many more see it as a someday dream
project. In this mini-guide, I take you briefly through my experiences —
it only took me 4 years and 4 attempts to finally send! Then I give some
general tips for bigwall free climbing. The final section is all about Freerider
strategy and preparation, including eight infamous pitches and how to
prepare for them!

For my complete guide on “How To Free El Cap,” visit:

www.bronandjacob.com/freerider

134
Freerider has it all. From glassy slabs
to burly offwidths, technical crimping
to steep cracks, it’s sure to put your
granite skills to the test — especially
while dealing with complex systems,
wild exposure and the exhaustion of a
multi-day bigwall!

Bronwyn on the Scotty Burke offwidth (Pitch 30) in 2016. Photo: Jacob Cook
 My Freerider Story
2015: I first climbed Freerider with Jacob Cook (my husband)
and Chris Bevins in June 2015. I’d only been climbing for two
and a half years. It was our second trip to The Valley — one
year earlier Jacob and I had managed to scrape our way up
The Nose, as bigwall newbies.

The wall was a blast! We hauled an inflatable shark the whole

way and read aloud The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy every
night from our portaledges. We reached the summit in 6 days,
Jacob and Chris both managing to free the route. I was stoked
just to be there and fell in love with vertical camping!

2016: After a year and a half of climbing I found my thoughts

returning to Freerider. I climbed The Salathé over 5 days with
my friend Sam Nightingale, this time not as the tag-along
girlfriend but as an equal partner. I scoped out the pitches as
we aided past, could I free this? I wondered. Don’t be silly.

Then I met Alix Morris (pictured right). Alix is extremely

ambitious and perma-psyched. Like me, she’d only been
climbing for about 4 years, but she’d climbed El Cap
numerous times, including a handful of in-a-day ascents. I was
excited but nervous to join forces with Alix. No, actually I was
terrified. Who was I to think I could free The Captain? I put my
insecurities aside and we quested up the wall.

The next 7 days were some of the most empowering,

exhausting and memorable days of my life. After a full week
of tears, laughter, and battle wounds we reached the summit,
Alix with a free ascent and mine thwarted only by a single
move on the Boulder Problem. The infamous “Ninja Kick”
became my nemesis.

During our week on the wall, we were lapped twice by Jacob,

who this time was attempting Freerider in-a-day, which he
finally sent with Pete Whittaker. A week later Pete made the
first free rope solo in-a-day ascent of El Cap via the route!

2018: Over the next two years Jacob and I moved to

Squamish, BC. I climbed on granite as much as I could and
trained indoors whenever it rained.

In November 2018, Jacob supported me on my successful free

ascent of Freerider over 5 days! I led all the crux pitches and
only weighted the rope three times, lowering and sending
each pitch after. This time it almost felt easy. But it wasn’t easy.
It was the end of a four year epic journey to become the first
Canadian female to free climb El Cap.
136
`

What’s different about bigwall free climbing?

The number one difference on your first FREE wall — compared to, say, The Nose — is that you are
trying to perform up there. Not just on Day 1 and 2, but also on Days 3,4,5, etc. Here are some tactics
I’ve learned over the years:
Sun/Shade. Freerider faces SW and it gets HOT. Watch the wall in days prior and mark down when the
sun hits the slabs, when it hits the crux, etc. Plan your days around this.
Climbing at Night. I bring two headlamps; a cheap one for at the bivy and a powerful one for night
climbing. On my free ascent, we started up Freeblast at 5pm to avoid crowds and get better friction. I
also climbed The Boulder and the second Enduro Corner at night, on purpose, for the best conditions.
Not comfortable climbing in the dark? Practice before!
Pacing. Consider downtime. On my free ascent, I planned a “rest morning” in The Alcove before going
up to send the Boulder Problem that evening.
Partners. This ain’t just a day at the crag! Big Wall climbing is tiring and stressful. You want a partner
who will support you through thick and thin. You want a partnership where you truly care about each
others’ goals and experiences. Most of all, you want someone you know you will have fun with. You’re
in this together - get ready for the adventure of a lifetime!
Make Everything Clippable. Use duct tape and accessory cord (general wall hack, not just for free
climbers) to make tiny clip in loops for all your essentials – phone, battery pack, book, etc.
Thin Tag Line. Possibly the most important Free Wall hack! I bring 60m of 5mm. I lead with only the
gear for the pitch and then tag up the rest (haul line, hauling kit, approach shoes, jacket, etc). I climb
with a microtraxion and at least one glove to make tagging easier.
Go sport climbing! For a trad climber, this will help you gain strength to pull the cruxes and teach
you crucial skills like visualization. Some say you must climb mid 13 to send. I disagree, but if low 13 is
your limit, you better nail the tactics!

Alix Morris on 11d steep fingers high on the wall with Bronwyn. Photo: Jacob Cook 137
 5 Tips for Self Care!
1. Skin Care. Bring a skin kit: tape, nail clippers, baby wipes,
hand balm, superglue, nail file. Wear belay gloves!
2. Foot Care. Bring two sets of climbing shoes (a comfy pair
and a tight pair).
3. Food and Water. Don’t skimp! I budget at least 3 litres per
person per day. I keep clippable water bottles and a snack
sack right at the top of the haul bag during the day — if it’s
buried, you won’t bother!
4. Protection from the Elements. Keep jackets accessible.
On the other hand, you can use the portaledge fly as a
midday sun shelter, since the sun can be as energy-draining
as the cold.
5. Climb Tactically. Don’t just throw yourself at a pitch a
hundred times (like Alix and I did!). If you fall, figure out what
you did wrong, pull the rope, rest/eat a bar, visualize the
sequence and then attack. This type of quick redpointing
often makes the difference between a send and a near miss.
Practice this skill!

138 Bronwyn on the roof traverse (13b) on El Corazon. Photo: Jacob Cook
Now Let’s Get Into Some Freerider Specific Beta!
Freerider is shaped like an hourglass — slabs to start, vert in the middle, and steep cracks at the top!
Consider your strengths/weaknesses. For strong climbers, the hardest grades might not be your crux at
all. Definitely watch out for the numerous unassuming chimneys and offwidths! Or if this is your first wall,
the rope systems might be your downfall. Identify your weaknesses and then practice those skills before!
Strategy: Assess your goals and skill level to make a Game Plan!
Stash at Heart. Do it. Make sure your haul bag is waterproof and critter proof! Write a nice note on your
stash, with the date you intend on collecting it by. Safety note: The fixed ropes to Heart are somewhat
maintained by local climbers and climbing stewards, but use at your own risk and be prepared to pass a
knot or two – please do your part and replace a sketchy rope if you find one. It takes a village!
Day 1. Climb Freeblast, continue on to Lung Ledge or Hollow Flake ledge if you can.
Day 2. Expect to be slow. Lots of traversing and slabby hauling with the heaviest bags, finishing with
The Monster.
Above The Spire. Strategy on the upper half varies. You can access the crux pitch from The Alcove (with
a 60m haul line and lead line you can fix to the base of the crux, but not to the top) or The Block (rap to
the top of the crux on a 60m rope). Higher, bivying at Sous le Toit allows you to have multiple goes on
the Enduro Corner.
Portaledge? There are a few big natural ledges, but a portaledge allows flexibility with your own timing
and (now more important than ever) flexibility while sharing the route with other teams. Consider a G7
Pod (3lb inflatable portaledge), Jacob and I used them on my free ascent in 2018.
Rappel/Retreat: No lie, it kind of sucks. To make it smoother...
All Bolted Anchors (except a couple that it’s possible to skip by linking) Use a quick and simple anchor
set up. Slick transitions will save a lot of time, going up or down!
You can rappel from the top of The Ear to Heart Ledges with a single 70m. Tie knots in the ends and
be prepared for some swinging! Above that you need two ropes.
Rap Stashing. Though often discouraged, this can be a great option. Be respectful. Stash your bag well
out of the way and give priority to teams who are coming from the ground, even if this means waiting at
a hanging belay for ages while you let others pass. Best to rap The Salathé headwall (more direct), bring a
few cams (BD .4-.75) as directionals to avoid getting stuck out in space!
Fixed ropes. As a general rule, avoid it. As an exception, if you are spending a couple days in-a-row using
the ropes, you pull them out of the way whenever you aren’t on them, you give precedence to teams
passing through, and you pull them immediately when you leave, I think this is OK. As free climbers we
need to be careful here. Respect that everyone’s ascent is just as worthy as yours – celebrate with other
teams, regardless of their climbing style!

Jacob Cook on the Boulder Problem with Bronwyn in 2015. Photo: Jacob Bodkin
 The Pre-Freerider Multipitch Tick List!
5.11s - Voyager, The Rostrum, Astroman, The West Face of El Cap
5.12s - The Crucifix, Romulan Warbird, Border Country
Wide - NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral, Steck-Salathe

PITCH WHAT’S IT LIKE GOOD PRACTICE

Freeblast itself! Crest Jewel

Glacier-polished low-angle
Freeblast Slab (direct start), Glacier Point
sustained slab
Apron (any route)
Gradually widening
NE Butt of Higher Cathedral,
Hollow Flake low-angle OW to squeeze.
Steck Salathe
Most dangerous pitch.
6.7” wide 200’ splitter. In-
Sacherer Cracker, Blind Faith
timidating. Tip: slide the 6
The Monster (easier), Generator Crack,
on a sling so you don’t lift
Twilight Zone
the weight of the rope.
Bolted. About V7. Vert on
Vertical bouldering (ie.
The Boulder razor crimps and smears
Midnight Lightning), Border
Problem to a ninja kick or wild
Country
dyno.
5m of desperate glassy Gates of Delirium (easier),
Teflon Corner
stemming. First Blood, Book of Hate
First pitch is better for Moratorium, Voyager and
the crack wizard, second Cookie Monster (all easier),
Enduro Corner
is easier for the sport Tales of Power, Romulan
crusher. Warbird
Pumpy traverse on slopey
huecos. Safety: cannot
Sentinel Traverse (V6), sport
12a Traverse hear between anchors,
climbing elsewhere
have radios or a rope tug
system
Squirm to a bulge which
Ahab, Book of Job, The
Scotty Burke most layback, then flared
Rostrum, New Dimensions,
OW (Pitch 30) deep fists forever. Long
Leanie Meanie
and burly.

140
Check out www.bronandjacob.com/freerider
for my Freerider Ebook: over 50 pages of pure
beta spray down!!!

Dream Big and Happy Climbing,

Bronwyn

Bronwyn at full span on the 12a Traverse with Alix Morris in 2016. Photo: Jacob Cook 141
 9 120’
The Stellar Cellar
6’ x 2’ sloping ledge
13a
The Platinum Wall (aka The Direct) VI 5.13+
FA: October 2017 - Rob Miller, Roby Rudolf bulge
PreMuir
“The Wraith pitch” Grape Race
.4 - 1.25” 170’ 29
The Direct is a great, modern El Cap
route with more bolts than any of 5.11 ow
the other free routes, but it is wet 13c
100’ 8 death block
in spring.

The Hobbit Holes

190’ 39 belay takes The first nine pitches can be climbed as a use rivet hangers PreMuir 12a
practice climb (double rope raps), with / Muir
long slings,
for trees (haul from right) just 14 draws (ten regular and four alpine) 28 40’ The
and 1 ea .3” - 1.25” (double 1” or red Alien ugly 5.11+ Shaft
size) cams. Established during the famous slab
140’ 27 12a
protest against building pipelines on Native
American reservations, Rob called this part 5.13 PreMuir 100’
5.11 of the climb Standing Rock. The Doghead
12a
1ea .4”, .6” 12c
(green, yellow Alien) Muir
The haul from the
Muir summit to 37 26 110’
5.11
5.12
1.25” for belay p 38 150’ 100’
100’ 7 (.75 camalot) mostly 1”,
also .75” - 3” 25 90’
aid with small cams if wet
The 1’x3’ ledge 12b
Muir 13a thin lb
12d
12a “Teahupoo” 36 30’
(wet in Spring) 1” forever
12a
160’ 37
“Short but
5.12 Fierce” .6-2” The Shaft /
Gold Medal PreMuir
12b
70’ 6 Pedestal 130’ 35 traverse
5.12 100’ 24 around arête
11d
5.12 “Hanging
Slab” 5.10 squeeze
80’ 34
5 165’ off route
13d (V7/V8) bolt - don’t 120’ 19
23
The Smile clip, exit left

5.12 p 12c The Muir

The 5.11
Muir
33 100’ 22
13a Triple 4th
“Platinum” Direct 80’ 22 Triple Direct
all tiny cams Crossroads (haul from here
and nuts not from belay 22)
4 185’
60m rap
125’ 32
12a
Freeblast 12a
tension rap
12b
5.11 160’ 21
.5-2”
The Garnet Ridge White
Tower loose
70’ 31 loose
3’x6’ ledge
The Scoop Gold Ledge
3 170’ awesome bivy 5.10+
easy 20 95’
5.12 140’
p 5.12+ 19
30 195’
“Black 60m rap to 14
12b Velvet” 5.12
12d “Speak Friend”
The stem
195’ 18 14 40’
Muir 5.11
2 140’ sustained
chimney leave clipped
5.13- for “Balrog” pitch 5.12
12a
5.12 29 rivet 50’ 13
70’ 15 Grape Race
The
Nose
Rack: “White 5.10+
p 12 160’
18 quickdraws: 14 regular, 4 alpine 5.13 Wizard” 5.12
170’ 1
Nuts: 1 ea medium, offset nuts 80’ 16 “Balrog” 3ea 00 to 1”,
1ea 1.25“, 2” 11a R
Cams: 75’ 17 5.11

11a
3 Aliens: 1 ea green, yellow, red
off route 195’ 12a
2 ea BD C3 00 cam Quo Vadis 60m rap stance
6 ea BD C3 0 cam anchor
11 175’
The Nose 3 ea BD C3 1 cam
2 ea BD X4 .3 cam
180’ to 50’ The Great Crack
ground 2 ea BD X4 .4 cam
5.9
belay 3 ea BD X4 .5 cam (1”) 2ea 00 to 1.5”, 5.12
here
70’ 2 ea BD X4 .75 cam (1.25”) 1ea 2”,3” splitter
Salathé 2 ea BD C4 #1 cam (1.5”)
(Freeblast) “Pine 30m rap
Line” 1 ea BD C4 #2 cam (2”) to 9
5.7 1 ea BD C4 #3 cam (3”)
5.5 exposed “Hood River”
Gully

huge ledge 100’ 10

5.3 2 Wire Rivet Hangers
To start, 120 meter Haul Line
either climb 5.6 mistake bolt Grape Race
12d
Pine Line (5.7),
or scramble up to the 9
ledge via 5.3 or 5.6 Toe of Nose The Stellar Cellar “The Gypsy
scrambling. 9 Pitch”
move belay

142 | El Capitan
 39 190’
5.11 “Teahupoo”
The Direct, aka the Platinum Wall, is the 13a 36 30’ 5.12
creation of Rob ‘Platinum’ Miller with various 150’ 38 37 35 130’
12a 160’
partners over an eight-year period. The first 80’ 34
5.12
well-protected and largely bolted climb on El 13d
33 100’
Cap, Platinum is considered similar to 13a “Platinum”
Growing Up on Half Dome. Platinum is 60% 125’ 32
independent plus 20% newly-free-climbed 12a
terrain, climbing mostly thin features and 70’ 31
5.12 30
slab on the true Nose of El Cap. This is an 195’
amazing, approachable climb as the bolts are 12d
close together compared to the top-roped
29 170’
routes like the Dawn Wall and El Niňo.
40’
5.11 28 12a
Platinum Wall was repeated in 2018, 140’ 27
confirming the rating and the high quality! The Doghead
26 110’
(5.13)
5.12
Platinum starts at the base of the Nose. 25 90’

Legend had it that the first pitch of Platinum, 12a

24 100’
which for years was a harder-to-protect
11d
alternate start to the Nose, might actually
23 110’
have been the first pitch that Warren Harding
5.11
climbed on his first ascent of the Nose. 22
Crossroads Ledge
Longtime local and guide Scott Stowe - who 80’22

had always started the Nose this way - later 12a

21 160’
0
confirmed this as Harding's original route by “Black Velvet” (5.12) White Tower (5.10+)
140’ 20 95’
speaking with none other than Batso himself! 19

Miller and crew added several bolts to the 195’ 18 5.12

pitch, so it is now well protected. To his 5.11 14 “Speak Friend”
“White Wizard” (13a)
credit, Miller repeatedly rejected the idea of 15
5.12
13
calling the route Platinum Wall, but the 16 12 160’
17 5.11
community prevailed....love ya buddy! 5.10+
“The Balrog” (5.12)
12a
175’ 11

The Great Crack (5.12)

Steller Cellar Ledge 10 100’

120’ 9
“The Gypsy” (12d)
“The Wraith” 13a
8 100’

The Hobbit Holes (12a)

7 100’

12d
6 70’
5.12
5 165’’ The Smile

5.12
4 185’

5.11 5.11

170’ 3
12b
140’ 2
5.12 The Nose
170’ 1
11a

143
 175’ 12

Pack it in,
Pack it out!
Triple Direct VI 5.9 C2 or 5.14a
East FA: September 1969 - Jim Bridwell, Kim Schmitz
80’ Ledges .3-3”
12b
or
shuttle C2 (many tiny cams)
gear to
tree Triple Direct climbs only one independent 10b 11 190’
pitch between the Muir Wall and the Nose, or
C1
30 45’ Pharaoh Ledge
but is considered an independent El Cap best bivy
climb because of its historical nature. 10 110’ ledge on the
link 29 & 30 30’ route!
w. 60m rope
5.5 face good bivy.5-2”
Bev Johnson and Sibylle Hechtel made 160’ for 4+
5.7
1.5” piece the first all-female ascent of El Capitan Mammoth
125’ 29 via Triple Direct in 1973. Terraces
12a var.
12c belay
Heart Ledges 9 120’ takes
.75-2”
good bivy for 5 5.7
Magic Mediterraneo
Mushroom
Muir
Heart Rap
Route
10c
or Rack:
.5-3” C1 Nuts: 2 ea micro, 1 ea regular offset 8 120’
Cams: 3 ea .3”-3” 5 ropes total
28 120’ to ground
2 ea 4” Half
5.8
P Wild chimney
C2 or 10d Stance 1-2 ea 5” 110’ 20 Dollar
Offset Cams: 2 ea 5.9+ 1”-4”
or C1
5.6 trough Hooks: 1 ea grappling P 10b slick
2 Camhooks: 1 ea narrow, wide or C1+
pp
5.7 belay takes p 7 140’
1-2”
10d
or 5.7
.75-3” C1 The Real 5.9
Nose 130’ 19 or
poor bivy for 2 C1
27 90’ Quo CAMP
Vadis 5.8 move left
stance IV
5.8 hands False 60’ 17 18 80’ 5.9
Shield Muir or C1+
or 5.9
C1 or C1 P 4-6” 6 110’
P
many Shield Crossroads
1.5-2” .5-1.5” Quo good bivy Triangle
Vadis 5.6 for 2 (pitch traverses Ledge
10d or C1
140’ 16 more than shown) 5.8 A0
13a or 11a
var.
26 150’ Mediterraneo
.3-2”
13b 5 125’
5.9 or
or C1 C2 5.9 A0 or
13a Changing 11b
CAMP V 5.6 poor bivy
var. Corners
14a 110’ 23 for 1
100’ or 15 110’ 10d flaring pods
C2 thin sloping ledge 5.6 5.5 or C2
11c ok for 2 ramp
.5-5” or 4 100’
C1
10d hands
or C1 5.5 .5-1.5”
10c
11a or
or C1+ C1
14 95’ awk
5.8 Grey Ledges
Do not bivy for 2 5.8 chimney 22 110’
25 155’ leave trash! or C2 link 3 & 4
33 90’ w. 60m rope
11d or link 13 & 14 5.7
5.7 CAMP bivy for 2 C1 w. 60m rope
fun VI 11c
13 100’ or Mediterraneo
bad rope drag P C1+ thin
awk P 5.7
12d P Pancake
or P
many C2 camhooks-3” Flake 55’ 2
.75-4” 5.8 ow 11b or C1
var. 10c 5.8 fist
175’ 12 or C1 or C1
Great Roof 1.5-4”
11b
or P 1 150’
link 1 &2
C1 21 130’ w. 60m rope
13d or C2

110’ 24 P
Glowering
3’x3’ ledge Magic
Spot P 10c
Mushroom fingers
10d or C1
or 11d
C1 or
C1
12d Salathé
or C2
Mediterraneo

P Pine
Line large ledge
5.7
20
toe of the
23 Nose

144 | El Capitan
 45’ 30
125’ 29 12a or 5.5 A0
Triple D is a sweetly long, easier classic. It combines 10c or C1
28 120’
the mellower parts of three routes: Salathé, Muir,
and the Nose. The climbing is straightforward and 10d or C1 Wild
the ledges plush, though it lacks the glory of the 90’ 27 Stance
10d or C1
Stovelegs and King Swing on the Nose, or the
Changing 26 120’
splitter Salathé Headwall (better to climb The Nose Corners 14a or C2
or Salathé first). Because you climb the first ten
25 155’ Camp
pitches without hauling (you rely on fixed lines to VI
Heart Ledge for hauling, after climbing Freeblast), 11b or C1
Glowering
Triple D seems less of an ordeal than the Nose, Spot
24 110’

though the aid is a little harder (on the Muir section) 12d or C2
so it is slower and more difficult overall. Super 23 110’
Bonus: Triple D visits a whopping 6 sleepable ledges! Camp V
11a or C1+
110’ 22
Plan: Climb Freeblast on day one. Day two haul to Great 11c or C1+
Mammoth and sleep there or continue onto Roof Pancake
21 130’ Flake (10a)
Pharaoh or Grey Ledges. The traversing pitches to 13d or C2

The Muir
Camp 4 are esthetic, easy climbing but are often
20 110’ 5.9+ or C1
very windy and slower. Plan on three or four nights
on the wall. 5.9 or C1+ 130’ 19 Camp IV
60’ 17
13a or 5.9 C1 80’ The Nose
The Elements/Retreat: Freeblast is shady until mid-
18

140’ 16 11c or 5.6 A0

morning. Triple D follows long crack systems, which
13b or C2 Crossroads
quickly turn to icy rivers in a storm. Climb prepared! Ledge
If retreating before Camp IV, rappel to Mammoth 110’ 15
Grey 11c or C1
and continue down the fixed lines. After Camp IV, Ledges 14
95’
follow the Nose rappel route which goes straight 11d or C1
13 100’
down from the Great Roof directly to Dolt Tower,
and then straight down to the ground. 12d or C2
175’ 12
FA History: Jim Bridwell and Kim Schmitz made the 12b or C2
first ascent in 1968 - Triple D only has 1.5 indepen- Pharaoh
dent pitches, but is considered a route because of its 180’ 11 Ledge
10b or C1
ease and popularity. Bridwell described the climb as, 10
10
Mammoth
110’
“a two-pitch route with a long approach and long 5.7 Terraces
descent. It was an easy break-in and gave us a 120’ 9
sample of three different routes. We were snooping 5.7
around at the time looking for what we wanted to 120’ 8
do later.” The pair went on to put up several routes The Half
on El Cap and Half Dome. 10b or C1+ Dollar
7 140’
5.9

140’ 6 Triangle Ledge

11a or 5.8 A0
5 125’

Free 11b or 5.9 A0

Blast 4 100’
10c or C1
90’ 3

55’ 2 11b or C1
5.8
1 150’

10c or C1
Photo: xRez.com
145
 Grape Race VI 5.9 A2+ Pack it in,
Pack it out!
East
Ledges
FA: May 1975 - Charlie Porter, Bev Johnson
The Great Disgrace variation
FA: May 2001 - Jeff “Fro” Hornibrook, Jon Blair, Bryan “Coiler” Kay shuttle
gear to
125’ tree
CAMP V
ok bivy
110’ 20 for 1 27 40’
10 130’ sloping ledge 5.5
bivy for 2 ramp
.3-1” link 26 & 27
w. 60m rope
C2 thin
or 5.11 11a 5.5
or 1.5” piece
195’ to 8 C1+
awk 125’ 26

9 170’ 19 110’

The Great Crack C2 or 5.12 5.7

11c or
C1+ thin Rack
Pancake 9 Beaks: 3 ea #1-#3
many .6-3” Flake 10b
or 4 LAs: 1 ea #2, #3, #4, #5
C1 splitter or 5.12 C1
Great Roof
2 Angles: 1 ea 1/2”, 5/8” 10c
or
18 130’ Nuts: 1 ea C1
8 115’ 13c or C2
P Cams: 3 ea .3”- .4“ .5-2”
P 2 ea .5”-4” 25 120’
A2 beaks, angles
great siesta or 5.11 C1 or 12d P
Offset Cams: 2 ea Wild
C2Por 10d Stance
for 4
C2 11d 6 Heads: 2 ea #2 -#4
Stellar 7 or
Cellar .4-1” C1 Hooks: 1 ea 5.6 trough
“Teetotaler Mediterraneo
6’x2’ sloping
ledge Variation” Camhooks
5.5
6 Rivet Hangers 10d
5.7 .75-2” or
C1
The Real
Nose
110’ 17
5.9+
C2
.3-1” or The Great Disgrace 24 90’
C1 stance
P Addl. Rack: 5.8 hands
or
6 120’ 5.7 10ea #1 Beaks C1
55m haul Heads: Many
from 15 to 17 many
1.5-2”
(highly recommended)
5.7
120’ 16 30’ 10d or C1
C2F (short) poor bivy lower
for 2 CAMP 5.10 var. 23 150’
170’ 5 IV loose
5.7
5.9
Triple 10d Changing or C1
Triple Direct or Corners
Direct 10c C1
14a
Crossroads or 15 195’ or
C1 5.7 C2 thin
.3-3” 15 135’ 10d
bivy bivy for 1 .4-2” or C1
Mediterraneo for 2 10d A0
C2F few or 5.12 so
.4-2” A4 good!
A3+
“Lynn Hill 5.8
Traverse” belay takes
4 190’ (recommended) 95’ 22 155’
slabby .3-1.25”
ledge 5.7
5.7 10b fun CAMP okbivy for 2
.4-2” or VI
C1 awk
C2 many bad rope drag
or 5.11 George Whitmore loose .75-4”
RPs Plaque 5.8 lb
wild! 5.8 ow var.
A4+
5.9 p so thin
face Nose 70’ 14 11b good
Sickle Ledge or ledge for 1
5.9 mantel C1
.5-2” 5.11
or C2
3 100’ 110’ 21 Glowering Spot
A4 10c
or C1 5.10 3’x3’ ledge
10c or C2 or C1
5.8 lb
.6-2” Fro’s 5” King
Happy Heaven Eagle Swing
Ledge 13 12d
Ledge or
90’ 2 5.9 C2
5.9 ow
.4-3” Great Disgrace
The Direct 10c C1 or 5.9 A4+ 5.11 or C1
or C2 11d belay takes CAMP V
(39 pitch, 5.13d) .6-1”
12 130’ 20
135’ 1
belay for
150’ 11 5.9 Jardine
C2 or or C2 hooks Traverse
11a 11a
var.
.4-4” Grape Race and Tangerine Trip are two of the more blank routes
Grape Race starts after the
on El Cap, both drilled by Charlie Porter. This route was supposed
5.9
first 3.5 pitches of The Nose hooks to continue up the cracks to the right of the Nose, but the FA
heads
Pine exposed beaks A2+ team, after becoming frustrated with the amount of drilling
Line 5.7 5.3 130’ they had already done, bailed onto the Nose. These cracks were
10 later climbed as part of The Real Nose.

146 | El Capitan
 40’ 27
125’ 26 5.11 or 5.6 A0
12a or C1
Wild Stance
The 25120’
A direct and easier aid line to Eagle Ledge halfway up Alcove 10d or C1
the Nose, Grape Race is a fun location climb with a 90’ 24

handful of classic pitches interspersed with many 10d or C1

bolts. The route starts after 3.5 pitches of the Nose, Changing 23 150’
with a few bolt-protected face moves up featured face Corners 14a or C2
and cracks. After that, it's mostly bolts and mellow aid Camp
155’ 22 VI
with one incredible 300' splitter in the middle of the 11b or C1
route. The cruxes are a few thin piton placements. Glowering
110’ 21 Spot
Grape Race has unique views and while the climbing 12d or C2
is not always classic, it gives the cool feeling of
following the true Nose of El Cap. Climb Grape Race Camp V 110’
20

after you climb the Nose, Salathé, and Triple Direct, 11a or C1+
19 110’
and you will be psyched! 11c or C1+
Pancake Flake (10a)
Great
Plan: It’s tricky to fix on GR in season because it starts Roof
18 130’

on the Nose, so best to fix in the afternoon and plan 13c or C1

on starting early the next morning so you don’t 110’ 17
disrupt traffic on the Nose. Camp IV 5.9+ or C1
120’ 16 195’
The Elements/Retreat: Sunny all day, Grape Race is 10d or C1 15

135’ 15 10d or C1
exposed and windy. The upper pitches of the Nose are “Lynn Hill Traverse”
brutal in a storm. Climb Prepared! Retreat by (5.12 or 5.10d A0)
70’ 14
rappelling the route; from Eagle Ledge you can rappel 10c or C1
straight down to Dolt Tower, and continue straight Eagle Ledge 13

5.11 or C1
down to the ground on independent anchors. 5.9 or C2 12 130’

150’ 11
FA History: Charlie Porter and Bev Johnson did the 5.12 or A2
first ascent over seven days in 1974. Porter had a 10 130’

mostly independent route scoped all the way to the 5.11 or C2

top, but became disheartened after the first half was 170’ 9
much less natural than he had hoped. Low on food
and water, the pair decided to finish on the Nose. 5.12 or C2
Ironically, the upper route that Porter had scoped was
super natural, and would later be climbed as part of 8 115’
120’
The Real Nose. Stellar Cellar 7
5.11 or A2
Ledge C2
120’ 6

C2F
5 170’
The Nose
C2F
4 190’
5.11 or C2
Sickle Ledge
100’ 3

10c or C2
90’ 2

11d or C2
1 130’
11a or C1
Photo: xRez.com
147
 The Nose
In 1957, the massive face of El Capitan remained one of the greatest unclimbed walls in North America.
Warren Harding, a surveyor from Lake Tahoe, attacked this challenge with a team of strong local
friends. The team encountered many difficulties: wild pendulums, cracks wider than their primitive
pitons, and a seemingly endless cliff. These hardships were softened by the comfortable ledges on
the route and the fresh supplies of food and wine they hauled up their ropes, which were fixed to
the ground. When winter came, the team left the valley with 1,200 feet of manila ropes fixed up to
Dolt Tower. They returned the following spring, prusiked to their high point and resumed the climb.
The National Park Service required Harding to fix ropes for the entire length of the climb to facilitate
retreat, as no rescue could be offered.

On November 1st, Harding, along with Rich Calderwood, Wayne Merry, and George Whitmore, started
up their lines for the summit push. A few days later, Calderwood descended and Harding, Merry, and
Whitmore continued on. Around sunset on November 11th, Harding started up the last pitch: a 60-
foot crack leading to a blank, 120-foot overhanging wall. That night, Harding drilled 28 bolts through
the overhang, and on the morning of November 12th, 1958 the trio finally stood on top.

The first ascent of the Nose was made, remarkably, with no cams or nuts (only pitons), no harnesses
(they used seatbelt webbing wrapped around their waist), and no hauling system (they prusiked
thousands of feet of fixed rope with 40 lbs duffel bags hanging from their waist).

In 1993, Lynn Hill stunned the Yosemite climbing community by becoming the first person to free
climb the Nose. At the time, Lynn rated the Nose modestly at 5.13b. For years, many top climbers
attempted the route without success. Surprisingly, no one was able to repeat the route free until
2005! By the time Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden became the second and third persons to free
climb the Nose, the rating had been confirmed at a consensus of 5.14a. So Lynn Hill was not only the
first person to free climb the Nose, she was also the first person to establish 5.14 on El Cap!

Lynn Hill on the Jardine Traverse 5.12a

148 Photo: Google, g.co/Yosemite
 28

The
The Nose Facts
Alcove
Wild
First ascent: Nov. 8, 1958. Warren Harding, Wayne
Stance
Merry, George Whitmore
Changing
Corners First free ascent: 1993. Lynn Hill, Brooke Sandahl
23
Camp Typical ascent time: 3-4 days
Glowering VI
Spot Number of days spent on the first ascent: 45 (spread
over 18 months)
Camp V
21 First one day ascent: June 21, 1975. Jim Bridwell,
Pancake John Long, Billy Westbay
Flake Fastest ascent: June 8, 2018. 1:58:07 Alex Honnold,
Great
Roof 19 Tommy Caldwell
First solo ascent: 1969. Thomas Bauman
Fastest solo ascent: 5:50. July 2010. Alex Honnold
Camp IV
17
First all female ascent: 1977. Molly Higgins, Barb
The Gray Bands Boot Eastman
Flake Fastest female ascent: 4:43. Septemer 2014.
Lynn Hill Traverse
Mayan Smith-Gobat, Libby Sauter
Eagle Texas
Flake
Ledge Youngest ascent: 1985. Bertrand Roche (10)
12 Youngest team ascent: 1977. Bill Price (14), Kurt
Jardine Traverse Reider (15)
El Cap
Tower
Dolt Number of people who attempt The Nose each
Tower 9
year: 600-700
Success rate: Around 50%

Personal water ration on the FA: 1 quart/day

Personal water ration today: 1 gallon/day
The
Stoveleg Amount of trash removed from The Nose by
Cracks Climbing Management since 2006: ~1,400 pounds

“As I hammered in the last

bolt and staggered over
the rim, it was not at all
4
clear to me who was the
Sickle
conqueror and who was
Ledge
the conquered. I do recall
that El Cap seemed to be
in much better condition
than I was.”
-Warren Harding

Watercolor by Mindy Wiper

Inspired by a Glen Denny photograph

Photo: xRez.com Free Variations El Capitan | 149

 The Nose VI 5.8 C2 or 5.14a
FA: November 1958 - Warren Harding, Wayne Merry, George Whitmore
Rack:
Nuts:1 ea offset alloy #7 - #11(med & large sizes only)
Micros: 1 ea #3, 2 ea #4, #5, #6 rap route
King Swing tip:
Cams: 1 ea .3” (blue Alien) Do the swing with
2 ea .5”, .7” (green, yellow Alien) 110’ 7 no rack and no haul line.
3 ea 1” (red Alien or .5 Camalot X4) After the swing,
Stoveleg lower the rack using
4 ea 1.25”, 1.5” (.75 & #1 Camalot) original route -
Crack Tribal the haul line to the
3 ea 2”,3” (#2 & #3 Camalot)
2 ea 4” (#4 Camalot)
some hangerless
A is the best, most bolts B glory!
Rite leader on Eagle Ledge.

direct option - climb lower out

Offset Cams: 1 ea .2/.3” (blue/black Alien) haulbags 40’
twin hand cracks to Dolt 5.8 14 130’
2ea .3/.5”, .5/.7”, .7”/1” the bolt right above Hole hands King
60’ 15
(blue/green, green/yellow, yellow/red Aliens) the A , then tension 100’ 6 Swing
right as shown. 5.9 Boot King Swing:
10c Flake 10c lower 16-20'
14 Quickdraws: 8 ‘Alpine Draws’ and 6 regular B is the best option .5-4” or
120’ 6 hands below The Boot.
draws if A is crowded C1 or C1 Your feet should
5.9 lb 4.5”
Camhook: 1ea Narrow 12a 1”
touch the uppermost,
110’ smaller tan dike.
1 Hook: BD Grappling (optional) var.
50’ Lower-out line for the haulbag(s) 205’
5.8
A Eagle
Ledge
C1+ camhook
5
Comfortable Free Shoes or 10a A0 10a lb 5.9
C1 ow
5.9+ or 10d free var.
13 110’
If confident freeing 5.10, bring wild
5.8
less cams, maybe 3ea combining regular 11c
.5-3” 5.6 fingers chimney
and offsets. loose 30m raps to Grape or easier on Texas
Important Note: use long C1 west side Flake New Dawn
runners the ground. Race
If hauling, or using 60m et al.
(250 meters
ropes, use higher anchor. 5.6 if fixing to 6 ) 80’ 5.9 move
Pitch 5 is 205’ from lower
anchor, and 190’ from
higher anchor. 4
NIAD 5.9 100’
5.5 100’ 4
anchor 5.9 12
Sickle Ledge great bivy
Grape P
Race good bivy for 1 5.7 El Cap for 4+
30m Three 60m ropes reach Jardine Tower New
(If hauling from the ground, 5.8 C1 or 11c 50’
this pitch has the biggest lowerout raps! the ground (as of Sept 2016 Traverse Dawn
for the haulbags, 60 ft) 5.9 rope eating you no longer have to 12a or 5.6 Rap Route:
C2 tie your ropes together). Or 5.10 A0 12, two-rope
flake you can rap with one 60m rope raps to the
5.7 3 via three more 30m stations. 120’ 11
ground
face 100’
Just practicing to Sickle?
10c Bring just one rope - it
or
C2 is often very windy on the Nose
5.9
Pitches 1-4 require link 2&3 w. so it is safer to only deal with fist many
5.7-5.9 free moves .6-2” one rope while climbing and
60m rope or 3-4”
or tricky aid. Bring rappelling. C1
offset cams & nuts. What Cams Per Pitch:
If aiding, bring hooks (Regular, not offset, cams -
and camhooks. 5.9
or 100’ always bring your offsets!)
10
C1 90’ 4” 1. 2ea to #1 Camalot,
2 5.8 1ea #2 Camalot
glory 2. 2ea to #1 Camalot,
good bivy for 2 or 1ea #2, #3 Camalot
ok for 4 C1 3. 2ea to #1 Camalot,
10c or C2 11d 200’ 9
If you don’t plan to bivy at Dolt, 9 5.7 1ea #2, #3 Camalot
belay here and climb to 10 in one squeeze 4. 2ea to #1 Camalot
pitch. This tactic avoids dragging 10c Dolt
or 5. 2ea to #1 Camalot,1ea #2 Camalot
The Direct haulbags across Dolt Tower, which Tower
(39 pitch, 5.13d) C1 (save .75 and #1 for last 20 feet)
130’ 1 wastes time and energy. 160’ 5”
6. 2ea to #1 Camalot,1ea #2 Camalot
(save .4/red alien for last 15 feet)
10c fingers 10b Central
fist 7. 1ea .75, #3, #4, 3ea #1, #2 Camalots
or Scrutinizer
or 8. All cams to #2 Camalot, 1ea #3, #4
C1 5.7
C1 Camalot
11a many 9. 1ea .5 to #1 Camalot, all of your #2, #3,
var. 11a 3-5” and #4 Camalots
or C2 10. 2ea to #3 Camalot,
slick jams 5.8 fist
1ea #4 Camalot
.5-3”
Rap Route: 11. All #1 to #4 Camalots. Save both #4s
8 double-rope raps for last twenty-five feet.
belay 12. 2ea to #1 Camalot,
50’ here or 16 one-rope raps
5.9 1ea #4 Camalot
180’ to with a 70m rope from
13. 1ea .4 to #1 Camalot
ground 8 150’ Dolt to ground 14. Camhook. 1ea .1/.2 to .5, 2-3ea
70’
.75 - #3 Camalot
Salathé 15. 2ea to #3 Camalot,
“Pine 5.7 1ea #4 Camalot
Line” fixed ropes fun
C 5.7
5.5 exposed 5.9 lb
Gully

huge ledge 5.3 4.5”

B
Proudest approach, 10b or C1
Pine Line is a two- 5.6 A true base of the
mountain, not
pitch route below
A good with heavy packs
B
the first pitch of the rap route
Easiest (recommended)
Nose. The 5.7 and 5.9 Toe of Nose
C
7
pitches are called only good if you are
pitch -1 and pitch 0 hauling from the ground,
or want to add two pitches
of the Nose. to the Nose
150 | El Capitan
 28 45’

The Nose (continued)

5.5
What Cams Per Pitch: 1.5” piece face
16. All your small cams (unless
140’ 27
doing the Lynn Hill Traverse) to
.5, 2ea .75 - #3 Camalot. 125’ 12a var.
17. 2ea to #3 Camalot CAMP V ok bivy 12c
(lots of long slings) 110’ 21 for 1
18. 2ea to #1 Camalot, sloping ledge
5.6 5.5
1ea #2, #3 Camalot bivy for 2 ramp
19. All small cams to .5, Pack it in,
Pack it out! 70’
2ea .75 & #1 Camalot
20. 2ea to .75, 3ea #1 Camalot, East
1ea #2 Camalot 60’ 28
1” Ledges
21. 2ea to #3 Camalot 10c
Save one #3 if climbing to shuttle or
11c C1
the higher anchor above Camp V or C1+ gear to .5”-2”
22. All small cams to .75, 2ea awkward tree
#1 & #2 Camalot, 1ea #3 Camalot 20 110’
save one .75 for last 15 feet. 28 26 120’
23. Mostly .75 - #2 Camalot sized. Wild
P Stance
Save 1ea #2, #3, #4 for last twenty C2 or 10d
5.7
feet. 11c Central
24. All of your cams to #2 Camalot, or 5.6 trough Scrutinizer
2ea #3 & #4 Camalot. Save .75 & C1+ thin
#1 Camalot for last fifteen feet.
25. All .75 to #2 Camalot sized, plus Pancake 10d
1ea #3 Camalot Flake or C1
26. Mostly finger sized to 2ea #1, #2, 10b .75-2.5” The Real
and 1ea #3 Camalot. Save 1ea offset or Nose
cams for the last twenty feet. Great Roof C1
27. 1ea to .5, 2-3ea .75 & #1 Camalot, 19 130’
1ea #2 & #3 Camalot P P 25 90’
stance
28. Bolts 13c or C2
P 5.8 hands
or
130’ rap C1
P
11d many
or 1.5-2”
C1
10d or C1

Mediterraneo 24 150’

10a
5.7 “The Schnaz” or Changing
110’ 18 5.13 (V9) C1 Corners
5.9+ rap to 16 ,
or continue down 5.11 14a
C1 Jardine Traverse Leave your haulbags tied into or
P the pitch 16 anchor like normal. C2 thin
Usually the leader leads pitch 17
5.7
55m haul & 18 without the haul line, and the
cleaner brings the haul line when 10d hands
from 16 to 18 so or
(highly recommended) they clean each pitch. Then while good! C1
5.7 the leader is setting up the haul
at the top of 18, the cleaner raps
down (it is low angle, so easy to 5.8
EL CAP S 120’ 17 rap down and just walk over to Do not
NAKE your bag(s) - no need to leave the
23 155’
5.10 var. lead line clipped to 16). ok leave trash!
CAMP 30’ 5.7 CAMP bivy for 2
poor bivy for 2 IV loose lower fun VI
5.7 The Real 10d
Triple Nose don’t or C1
5.11 leave clip bolt
Direct or clip this bolt haulbags awk.
C1 16 195’ Dike (a
.3-3” here plite) rope drag
5.7 many 5.8 ow var.
good bivy bivy for 1 .4-2” .75-4”
135’ 16 good
10d A0 ledge for 1
for 1 or
5.12 11a
rap route
or C1
“Lynn Hill Traverse”
(Highly recommended
if you can do it) Central
Scrutinizer 110’ 22 Glowering Spot
5.10 3’x3’ ledge
10b or
or C1
C1

12d
loose or
5.8 lb C2
"F*#k 'em! Rock climbing is so goddamned stupid wild!
in the first place- people moralize about it, but
15
people, myself included, do stupid things."
-Warren Harding
21

CAMP V

El Capitan | 151
It goes boys!
 28 45’

140’ 27 5.7
12c or C1
120’ 26 Wild Stance
10d or C2
2590’
10d or C1
150’ 24
Changing Corners 14a or C2

Camp VI 23 155’
11a or C1
Glowering Spot 22 110’
12d or C2
Camp V 21 110’
11c or C1+
20 110’
11c or C1+
Pancake Flake
The Great Roof 19 130’

13c or C2
18 110’
5.9
Camp IV 17 120’ The Grey Bands
16

Triple Direct 135’ 5.12 or C1

60’ 15 14 130’
5.11 or C1
Boot Flake (10c or C1)
13 110’
Texas Flake (5.8)
12 100’
Jardine Traverse (12a) 5.7 El Cap Tower
11 120’

5.9 fist
100’ 10
5.8
200’ 9 Dolt Tower
5.10 fist or C1
5.8
150’ 8

10b or C1
The Stovelegs
7 110’

5.9 glory
Dolt Hole 6
120’
12a or C1
205’ 5
5.9+

100’ 4
4
NIAD anchor (don’t stop here)
11c or C2
100’ 3 Sickle
10c or C2 Ledge
90’ 2 Rappel
11D or C2 Route
1 130’
11a glass or C2
Pine Line (2 pitches: 5.7,5.9)
5.3 Approach (300’)
Pine Line
Ledge
Photo: xRez.com 5.5
153
 The Free Nose VI 5.14a
FFA: September 1993 - Lynn Hill “It goes, boys!” -Lynn Hill

Rack: rap route

Nuts: 1 ea micro
110’ 7
Cams: 2 ea .4”-4” 165’ 16
Offset Cams: 1 ea Stoveleg
original
50’ Lower Out Line route
Crack 10b Tribal
Rite
glory! lower out
haulbags 40’
Dolt 5.8
Hole hands King
90’
Swing
King Swing:
5.9 Boot lower 16-20'
10c Flake 10c below The Boot.
6 .5-4” hands
or C1 Your feet should
5.9 lb touch the uppermost,
4.5”
1” smaller tan dike.
12a 110’
.
Eagle 15 C1+ camhook
205’
Ledge
5 5.8 10d 5.9
10a lb
ow
5.9+
wild
11c 5.8
chimney
.5-2.5” 5.6 fingers easier on
regular loose Grape Texas
route 30m raps to Race west side New Dawn
Flake
the ground. et al.
5.6 (250 meters 70’ 14
if fixing to 6 ) 5.9 move
If hauling, or using
60m ropes, use
Niad higher anchor 4
anchor 100’ 4 5.9 great bivy
Grape 5.5
Race 5.9 for 4+
P Sickle Ledge
P good bivy for 1,ok for 2 5.7 El Cap
13 50’Jardine Tower New
11d Traverse Dawn
Rap Route:
Rappel using one 60m rope, or 5.6
rope eating 12a 12, two-rope
fix ropes using three 60m ropes via bolted
flake raps to the
3 stations (as of Sept. 2016 you no longer 100’ 12 ground
have to tie your ropes together when fixing).
100’
10c

The first four are slick, 5.9

and not as classic as .6-2” fist many
the rest of the route 3-5”

5.9 six (total) 25 - 30m rappels 100’ 11

90’ 4”
2 5.8
glory
good bivy for 2
ok for 4
10c 11d 30’ 10 5.7
10
squeeze
10c Dolt
Muir Blast Tower
160’ 9 4.5”
130’ 1
10b Central
10c Scrutinizer

11a many
var. 11a 3-5”
slick jams
bolts 5.8 fist
added .5-3”
in Rap Route:
2014
8 double-rope raps
belay or 16 one-rope raps
50’ here
5.9 with a 70m rope from
180’ to
ground 8 150’ Dolt to ground
70’
Salathé
“Pine
Line” fixed ropes
C 5.7
5.9 lb
5.5 exposed
Gully

huge ledge 4.5”

5.3
Proudest approach,
5.6 B A true base of the
mountain, not
10b

A good with heavy packs

rap route
Toe of Nose B Easiest 7
C only good if you are
hauling from the ground,
or want to add two pitches
to the Nose

154 | El Capitan
 The Free Nose (continued)
Pack it in,
Pack it out!
East
110’ 23 Glowering Spot 60’ 29 Ledges
5.10 3’x3’ ledge
shuttle
gear to
tree

12d 29

125’ 22
ok bivy
for 1 slab 12a
110’
sloping ledge
bivy for 2CAMP V 5.6 5.5 12c
ramp

1” 70’ 28

11c
awkward
10c
21 110’
.5”-2” Wild
Stance
27 120’
11c P Central
10d
Scrutinizer

Pancake 5.6 trough

Flake
10b
10d
Great Roof
.75-3” The Real
20 130’
P P P Nose
P 13c

P 26 90’
stance
P 130’ rap
11d
5.8 hands

many
1.5-2.5”
Mediterraneo
10d

5.7 25 70’
110’ 19
5.9
5.9+ rap to 17 Changing
continue down “The Schnaz”
Jardine Traverse 5.13 (V9) Corners
P

5.7 5.11 14a

55m haul
from 17 to 19
(highly recommended)
5.7 10d hands
so
good!

EL CAP S 130’ 18
NAKE 5.8
5.10 var.
CAMP Do not
poor bivy for 2 IV loose 24 155’ leave trash!
5.7 10d ok
Triple The Real or C1 5.7 CAMP bivy for 2
5.11 Nose leave fun VI
Direct
haulbags
here Dike (a
.3-2.5” plite)
5.7 awk.
17
good bivy bivy for 1 .4-2” bad rope drag
55’
for 1 5.8 ow var.
rap route 5.12 .75-3.5”
good
ledge for 1
“Lynn Hill
Traverse” 16 11a

110’ 23 Glowering Spot

El Capitan | 155
 Double King Swing:
a popular, but strenuous for
Rack: the second, way for both
climbers to do the King Swing
Nuts: 1 ea micro
Cams: 1 ea .3” Nose In A Day (NIAD) VI 5.8 C2 or 5.14a during a NIAD. The leader leads
the Boot, then lowers and cleans
FA: June 1975 - Jim Bridwell, John Long, Billy Westbay the gear down to the tan band.
2 ea .4”-3” The second usually climbs
up the bolt ladder, to right below
1-2 ea 4”
Offset Cams: 2 ea (nice to bring 2ea so Water: the tan band, either while
the leader is leading the Boot
(better) or as the leader is
the first leader can make it to Sickle or rap route
lowering and cleaning the gear.
Stovelegs in first block) 14 - 24 hrs: 7 - 8 liters( jugging with KS is hard with a pack and approach
King Swing: shoes, so the double KS is usually
Camhook: 1ea Narrow more than eight liters is difficult) 110’ 7
only done (well) by parties planning
lower 16-20'
8 - 13 hrs: 4 - 6 liters below The Boot. on a less than 8-hour ascent.
Stoveleg
4 - 7 hrs: 2 - 3 liters Crack Your feet should
touch the uppermost,
original smaller tan dike. King Swing NIAD: Double King
route glory! Swing is very popular, but hard.
130’
Easier, so faster for most
The first half of the route tends to have Dolt 5.8 14 parties, is to have the leader
mostly strenuous French-free climbing for NIAD Hole hands King finish the Boot, lower and then
60’ 15
parties. If you bring a 40’ 4mm tagline to pull up Swing King Swing to Eagle Ledge
100’ 6 Boot and fix the rope quickly.
gear when shortfixing, consider not using it on Middle penji is fastest 5.9 Flake The second jugs the Boot,
the first half, or at least to Dolt - the leader 10c
way into the Stovelegs fingers 10c slides the spare rack down
will be gunning it and will benefit from just taking 120’ 6
hands to the leader who is on Eagle,
a break for a few minutes while the second quickly 5.9 lb and then the leader continues
jugs up to give back gear, and to give a drink of water 1” 4.5” leading. The leader short fixes
12a 110’
every few to several pitches. The tagline can be var. from fifteenth belay.
very helpful from the Great Roof to the top, where Eagle C1+ camhook move
most folks tend to aid climb more. 245’ Ledge Second usually
Traditionally, it was common to switch 5
5.8
With practice, you can get to Sickle or ideally hands 10a lb 5.9 belay here simul-climbs the
leaders at Sickle, because the first four 10a A0 ow
to the pitch 6 belay without meeting up. Then for Double King bolts and belays here
are slick and eat up gear. Today teams 5.9+ or 10d free variation
Swing 13 110’
your next meet up might be at Dolt. After Dolt, find it better to meet up at 6 , because move
the leader goes through the King Swing, and gets you only need a couple pieces for the two (1.25”)
all the gear slid back down to them on Eagle Ledge. 11c 5.8
pitches off Sickle. This keeps the team 5.6 chimney
fingers
The next time you meet up after Dolt could be moving through this traversing terrain, and loose or easier on Texas
Grape
the base of the Lynn Hill Traverse, because folks the leader gets a fresh start, or a break if Race C1 west side Flake New Dawn
30m raps
usually liked to be belayed on that pitch. Then the leader is continuing, before the to the ground et al.
you meet again at the base of the Great Roof pitch, strenuous Stovelegs. 5.6 80’ 5.9 move
and pull out the tagline. 12
The leader, who has clipped into 12
(Not using your tagline on the first third to half Simul climb big ledge Is considered
the fifth belay, and lowered down 5.9 100’
of the route can be difficult, because you have Grape Easy 1/3 of a Niad
Race 5.5 as the simul-climber has walked
to conserve gear, and could lead to more stress 4 5.9 simul
Sickle Ledge up the corner to around where it
and less fun. I’m suggesting it here because P climb El Cap
1hr to Sickle is approx. says 5.6 on pitch 5, clips into this 50’Jardine 5.7
the first several pitches move around a lot, and if Tower
a 12-14 hour pace belay briefly, so the simul-climber
you can get even to the pitch 6 anchor before 5.8 C1 or 11c Traverse
can jug against them up to 5 . The
you start using the tagline, you will probably 12a or 5.6 Rap Route:
5.9 cleaner clips into 5 , and puts the
save yourself some time, because this is the C2 rope eating 5.10 A0 12, two rope
Rappel from leader on belay, who just unclips from
area where the tag line is most likely to hang flake raps to the
5.7 3 Sickle with this intermediate anchor, and climbs 120’ 11
up. Personally I always like to have an extra ground
face one 60m rope up to 6 .
set of offset Aliens for aiding the Great Roof 100’
and Glowering Spot, so I give them to the leader
10c
for the first block and they are able to leave or
extra pieces on the first couple pitches, and C2 5.9
move faster. For sure always do what feels fist many
.6-2”
fun and safe!) 3-4”

5.9
or 100’ 10
C1 90’ 4”
2 5.8
3-3.5 hrs to Dolt
glory hands
is approx. a 12-14
hour pace
10c 11d 30’ 9 5.7
9 squeeze
10c Dolt
4” Tower
Muir Blast
130’ 1 short-fix here 165’ 9

10b Central
10c fingers fist Scrutinizer

11a many
var. 11a 3-4”
slick jams
bolts 5.8 fist
added .5-3”
in Rap Route:
2014
16 single-rope raps
belay
50’ here from Dolt to ground
5.9 with a 70m rope
180’ to
ground 8 150’
70’
Salathé 5.7
“Pine
Line” fixed ropes fun
5.7
exposed 5.9 lb
5.5 4.5”
Gully

huge ledge 5.3

10b
B
Proudest approach,
5.6 Atrue base of the
mountain, not
A good with heavy packs rap route

B
Toe of Nose 7
Easiest

156 | El Capitan
 28 35’

The NIAD (continued)

5.5
1.5” piece face

130’ 27
125’ 21 12a var.
12c
110’
5.5 Most parties
CAMP V 5.6 ramp short fix the rope here,
and sometimes one or
70’ two more times through
these last couple pitches,
NIAD so both leader and
Woot! East cleaner can keep moving.
1” Woot! 60’ 28 Ledges
"F*#k 'em! Rock climbing is so goddamned stupid 11c 10c lb
in the first place- people moralize about it, but or C1+
awkward 5.4 .5”-2”
people, myself included, do stupid things."
-Warren Harding 20 110’
28 30’ 26 120’
P Wild
C2 or 10d Stance
5.7
11c
or 5.6 trough
C1+ thin In June 2017, Leah Poppajohn
and Jonathan Fleury set the speed
Pancake record for the Naked NIAD at
twelve hours, a personal best for 10d
Flake the pair. Their advice? “Turns out 1.25”
10b clothes are the only sandbags.” .75-3”
tight hands
Great Roof or lb
19 130’
P P 25 90’
stance
P 13c or C2
A Green
P Gummy Bear 5.8 hands
a day keeps the
130’ rap vampires away! Stellar!
P
11d many
or 1.5-2.5”
C1 From the base of the Great 10d undercling, hands
Roof the climbing gets steeper
and more straightforward. Short- .3” piece
Mediterraneo fixing keeps the rope moving up, 24 150’
even if you slow down considerably
on this final stretch.
5.7 “The Schnaz” 10a
You Got This! 5.13 (V9) tight hands
110’ 18
rap to 16 ,
5.9+ continue down 5.11 14a
fingers Jardine Traverse or
P 100’ C2 thin
Changing
5.7
Corners
10d hands
so
good!
5.7
5.8
EL CAP S 120’ 17 Camp IV is considered halfway on the NIAD
NAKE 23 155’
poor bivy ok
for 2 CAMP 5.10 var. 30’
loose 5.7 CAMP bivy for 2
IV lower VI
fun
5.7 10d
Triple don’t or C1 23
5.11 short-fix here
Direct or clip this bolt clip bolt
C1 195’ Dike (a
.3-2.5” plite) awk. rope drag
5.7 many 5.8 ow var. (not recommended)
good bivy .4-2” .75-4”
don’t clip 135’ 16 good
for 1 this anchor ledge for 1
“Lynn Hill
rap route Traverse” 11a
(Recommended) or C1
10d A0
or Central
5.12
Scrutinizer 110’ 22 Glowering Spot
5.10 3’x3’ ledge
10b 1”
or
C1

12d
loose or
5.8 lb C2
wild! Can’t Stop
Won’t Stop!
15

21

CAMP V

El Capitan | 157
 A MINI-GUIDE TO THE NOSE
The Nose of El Capitan is the greatest rock climb in the world. Why? A mere 15-20 minute walk
from your car and over 1,000 meters (28 pitches!) long, the Nose is characterized by some of
the cleanest, most beautiful cracks anywhere. To top it off, the route visits several stunning bivy
ledges which offer the unique experience of ‘living on the wall’ for a few days. Every climber
who is not afraid of heights should climb the Nose. It’s amazing!

Are you good enough?

Up until now it has been widely believed that a climber should be able to comfortably lead
5.10 trad before attempting the Nose. While being that proficient will definitely allow you to
free climb more of the Nose, thus making it a little easier and faster, it is not a requirement. The
reality is most of us are not 5.10 trad leaders. Thankfully, climbing the Nose as a 5.8/5.9 leader
is not only reasonable, it’s super fun! In fact, that is how most parties climb the route - because
5.8 in your comfy shoes with two ropes and gear on you, way off the deck, feels hard! I’ll teach
you the tricks of the trade that have allowed me, a regular 5.9 struggler, to climb El Capitan
over a hundred times. And I’ve climbed the Nose around 20 times – it never gets old ;)

What it was like for me:

I probably lived in Yosemite year-round for five years before I accepted that I was never going
to become a solid 5.10 trad leader. I had a lot of sports injuries as a kid, so now I have to stick
to a lot of Yoga, and mellower climbing. Yeah.....eventually I accepted that I would probably
always think that 5.9 felt hard in Yosemite, and that 5.8 was no gimme. Thankfully, around the
same time I realized that I really wanted to climb the Nose anyway. I enlisted my best friend
Richie - another 5.9 master - and we headed for the Big Stone.
Crazy thing is, we were surprised
at how easy it was. Sure, we had
done dozens of bigwall climbs,
but with just the basics dialed:
jugging, hauling, lowering out,
etc, and with the few pieces of
special protection that shine
in Yosemite’s cracks like offset
cams and Totem cams, the Nose
seemed super approachable.
Woohoo! We laughed and
howled monkey calls all the way
up the wall, enjoying the amazing
cracks and awesome bivies.
Since that first time, I’ve been
passionate about encouraging
all capable climbers to go for the
Nose! The good news is, if you’re
an avid outdoorsperson, you’re
probably closer than you think
to being ready for this adventure
climb of a lifetime.
Erik on El Cap Tower! Photo: Kevin Kuhns

158 | El Capitan
History – and how YOU can be as stylin’ as Warren Harding!
As Warren Harding’s team was working on the first ascent of the Nose in 1957, he and some
friends famously hauled a full Thanksgiving dinner 1,200 feet up El Capitan to Dolt Tower –
an entire turkey with all the fixings, and of course wine! This was before climbing harnesses
and hauling systems existed, so they ascended their fixed ropes using prusik knots, carrying
their loads suspended to their swami belt of webbing wrapped around their waists – that’s
dedication. Harding had it right from the beginning, insisting that the new sport of bigwall
climbing had one central tenet: to make sure you have as much fun as possible while climbing
the mountain!
Many new climbing gear inventions were developed during this cutting-edge first ascent of
ElCap. Wall hammocks and stoveleg pitons came into being on the Nose, although the Dolt
Cart – a wheeled contraption used to winch gear up the wall – proved to be big wall theory.
Even though Warren Harding never climbed 5.10 on a bigwall, he sure enjoyed climbing tons
of long free routes in Yosemite, and today we are thankful that his spirit remains alive and
strong in the Valley. With the advent of harnesses, ascenders, cams, nuts and assorted gadgetry
that Harding and his buddies could only have dreamed of, the Nose is now accessible to
regular folks with modern gear so you don’t have to pound pitons every inch of the way. So
tool yourself up with offset nuts, Totem cams, offset cams and camhooks, otherwise you might
find yourself forced to free climb some mandatory 5.10.
What’s the best way to maximize your celebration – in the style of Warren Harding – while
you’re climbing the Nose? For starters, learn to bivy on the wall. You can practice camping on
a small cliff near home, or sleep on a multi-pitch free climb like Royal Arches or at the summit
of After Six. And definitely climb Washington Column first before you hop on El Cap. Think
carefully about the food and drinks you should pack to make your experience as special as
it can be, and don’t forget the tunes – music will make your sunset vista from the Nose even
more golden.

Part of Warren Harding’s pin rack on Dolt Tower. Check out those stoveleg pitons – savage! Photo: William “Dolt” Feuerer

El Capitan | 159
 Some Bigwall VOCABULARY and GEAR:
Coreshot: when a portion of the sheath that surrounds your
rope is abraded, and exposes the ‘core’ below. Every rope
consists of around a dozen core strands which are very thin
and are each rated to the same strength rating as the entire
rope. These strands are protected by a sheath, the colorful
outer part of the rope, which sometimes gets worn on sharp
edges or cracks. Coreshots do not, in theory, affect the
overall strength of the rope, but should be treated seriously
and covered with athletic tape - a temporary sheath - until
the rope can be replaced.
Fifi Hook: a small metal hook that is attached to your
harness similar to your belay loop, tied on with a sling or
rope through both tie-in points of your harness. Like a third
arm the fifi allows you to hang on a piece quickly, either
while French free or aid climbing. It also allows you to move
around hanging belays better, quickly freeing up both your
hands so you can perform tasks.
Camhook: a curved metal bar/hook that fits into a crack
similarly to nuts and cams and allows you to aid climb thin
cracks where pitons would traditionally have been used. A
camhook is different from a regular hook because it does
not work by sitting on top of an edge of rock, but instead fits
inside a crack, and ‘cams’ itself by being twisted tightly. When
you pull or stand on the hook, it catches, and when you let
go or step off, it slides back out of the crack.
Lower-Out Line: a short length of 7 – 9mm rope - a piece of
an old rope is fine - that is used to attach the haulbag to the
anchor, and also to lower the haulbag away from the anchor
on traversing pitches when
the leader has started to haul.

Is A Lower-Out Line
Necessary?
If you don’t use one to dock
your haulbag to the anchor,
it will be difficult to unclip
your load on a diagonal haul.
Even worse, if you manage
to get it unclipped, the
haulbag will swing across
the wall potentially crashing
into obstructions or a corner,
breaking water bottles and
causing untold chaos. The
Nose traverses a lot, so it’s
best to bring a lower-out line.

Living the Dream: Merryn Venugopal on Camp 6

Photo: Rebecca Roberts
160 | El Capitan

Yvon Chouinard sorting the rack, 1969
Photo: Glen Denny
2021 Nose Rack:
Nuts:
1 ea DMM offset alloy #7 - #11(med & large sizes only)
DMM or BD Micros: 1 ea #3, 2 ea #4, #5, #6
Cams:
1 ea .3” Blue Alien ‘Revolution’
2 ea .5”, .7” (Black & Blue in Totems, Green & Yellow in Aliens)
3 ea 1” (Yellow Totem, Red Alien, or .5 Camalot X4)
3 ea 1.25”, 1.5” (Green & Red Totem,. 75 & #1 Camalot)
2 ea 2” (#2 Camalot or Orange Totem)
3 ea 3” (#3 Camalot)
2 ea 4” (#4 Camalot)
Offset Cams:
1 ea .2/.3 (Blue/Black Alien or .1/.2 BD X4)
2ea .3/.4, .5/.7, .7”/1” (Blue/Green, Green/Yellow, Yellow/Red
Aliens)
Camhook: 1ea Narrow
50’ x 7 - 9mm Lower-Out Line for the haulbag
Comfortable Free Shoes: TC Pros or similar
Bigwall Gear:
Personal Gear - each climber should have these:
1 ea Petzl or BD Fifi Hook
2 ea Yates 12mm x 54 cm Dyneema/Spectra Daisy Chain
(regardless of brand make sure these are 54 cm, because
you need the reach when aiding).
2 ea Metolius 4-step Etrier or Yates 5+2 Etrier
2 ea Petzl Ascension Ascenders
1 ea Helmet
1 ea headlamp (I like to bring one extra per team of two)
Team Gear - only one set of each are needed, to be shared
by a team of two or three climbers:
1 ea Petzl Protraxion
1 ea Petzl Microtraxion (bring as backup in case you drop
the Protraxion. You can also use it in a team of three, as
a backup for the third person who ascends the haul line
before you haul.
1 ea BD or Metolius Haulbag, size Large (7000 – 9000 cu in)
1 ea BD or Metolius Haulbag, size Medium (4000 cu in size).
This is optional if you are traveling light, but can be super
nice to put the extra rack, puffy jackets, and snacks in for
easy access. Clip the two haul bags - side by side - into the
bottom of the swivel.
1 ea BD or similar swivel
1 ea lightweight electrician’s hammer for tapping out nuts
161
 Some more thoughts about gear:
Hopefully the sight of your favorite headlamp, cam, or biner plunging earthward will never
occur to you on the Big Stone. But the unfortunate fact is, we all drop a thing or three every
now and then ;) At the very least, you will break or wear out some items in your kit during
your bigwall climbs. So always remember - these big climbs are some of the most priceless,
life-changing and cherished experiences available on Earth, and even if you dropped your
entire rack from the summit, I’m positive that you and your partners will later agree that
you’d still got a great deal on your climb.

How to deal with dropped, stuck, and broken gear

In all probability you’re going to lose stuff, so it’s best to discuss this eventuality with your
team members before you get on the wall. I feel that the best attitude towards lost gear
is that the entire team share the replacement cost, regardless of who caused the mishap.
Think about it: if one member of the team is feeling discouraged, ashamed or bummed
out because they made a mistake, then concentration could suffer. You might climb less
confidently and efficiently, possibly going off-route, or even falling and getting hurt. So
when something gets lost, shrug it off and help maintain the stoke. “It’s no big deal, mate –
don’t sweat it. We’re a team, and we’ll all share in the cost of replacing it when we get down.
In the meantime, let’s send this wall, have fun, and get to the summit!”
Each trad climber develops their own preferences about gear, and that’s good. Use what
you like, for sure. Here are a few thoughts about crucial items:
Rope: With proper storage and care, ropes last many years. That said, getting a brand new
rope for your first El Cap climb could give you a little extra confidence. I’m not saying you
should buy a new rope for your very first bigwall climb. Do a few walls to see if you actually
enjoy bigwall climbing. But when you’re ready to go for the Nose, having a fresh lead rope
can be nice.
I prefer to use an old lead rope in the 9.2 to 9.6mm range for hauling, a good compromise
between lightweight and burly. Should my lead rope ever get a coreshot – which is not
entirely uncommon when climbing around corners and over ledges – then I have a backup.
You should always carry a roll of athletic tape with you on the wall, so if your rope starts to
abrade, you can wrap the damaged section right away to prevent a more serious coreshot.
Aiders: I’m always surprised when I see climbers covered in bright shiny gear, but struggling
to untwist some old, beat-up aiders. Unless you lead 5.11, you will be using your aiders a lot,
so you should invest in a proper pair that you like, and that work well for you.
Lead or Aider Biners: The biners that hold your aider and daisy chain combo gets used
hundreds or thousands of times on the wall. These are your constant connection points,
your safety lines. You need these biners to have a narrow profile, for fitting through fixed
pieces which often have bulky webbing tied through them, but still work really well. Non-
wire gates are best. Buy a couple new Petzl Spirits or BD Nitrons before your El Cap climb
and you will be happy.
Climbing Shoes or Approach Shoes? Like your rope, using the right shoes will make you
climb more confidently on the wall. Don’t skimp on footwear! You will need a pair of
shoes that you can wear for a good part of the day, and you need to be used to climbing in
them. Practice for the wall by climbing many routes, long and short, in your ‘comfy’ shoes.
When you’re on the wall, and you find yourself doing a difficult or funky move, you’ll be glad
you did.

162 | El Capitan
Beth Rodden on Pancake Flake.
Photo: Corey Rich
 ATTITUDE
Your attitudes about climbing color your experiences on the mountain. With the right outlook,
your climbs and relationships flow smoothly. If your rope gets stuck, you rap down quickly
and retrieve it, no problem. If your partner has a hard time on a pitch, you offer to lead an
extra pitch that day, no problem. You anticipate tricky situations and visualize gliding through
them efficiently. But if you are resistant to changing plans and strategies or otherwise have a
bad attitude, your problems can quickly multiply on longer routes. Everything becomes more
complicated the higher you get off the ground, so make sure that you and your partner are
psyched and share the same climbing goals before heading up a bigwall together. Remember
that climbing is a sport with no rules – attitude is everything!
No doubt the most important trait that you should cultivate before coming to Yosemite – far
more important than physical strength – is a spirit of openness about climbing. This can be
hard to understand when you’re standing shoulder to shoulder with stinky people in your
cramped local gym or crag. You want to get away from the crowds, to climb above it all.
Unfortunately for your first few big climbs, you will probably be with other people. Thankfully,
the big mountain vistas, the wildlife, and the incredible rock of Yosemite make sharing the
mountain more fun. And don’t worry, the higher you climb up the wall, the more your team will
fall into a comfortable climbing rhythm, and will most likely be separated from other parties by
a pitch or three.
If other climbers are at the base when you arrive, immediately introduce yourself. You never
know when you might be yelling up in the dark to ask that person where they went on a
particular pitch. Other climbers on the mountain = new friends. If you’re getting along well,
offer to take pictures of each other and share them after your climb. Even better is if you can
retrieve a piece that a higher party got stuck, or show them the East Ledges descent because
you climbed the East Buttress at 5.10b and got it dialed ;) You might even get a free dinner and
make new lifelong friends and partners.
On El Cap, an attentive and open attitude is paramount. Epics will always occur, often at the
worst time. At the very least, you will share a belay or ledge with one or more other parties.
Embrace the experience together, and always remember more friends = more shared joy!
Before I go up on the wall, I love to watch standup comedy videos with my partner(s). Just type
in ‘2021 standup comedy’ in the YouTube search box and see what comes up. Ten or twenty
minutes of laughing together will give each of you plenty of witty-remarks and ammunition for
later, when the shit hits the fan on the wall.

The perennially-stoked Richie Copeland cleaning high on the Nose. Haha just kidding! This is a seldom-climbed pitch, appropriately
named “Spooge Central,” on El Cap’s Hole World... Sure glad I never climbed that one – hee hee! Photo: Ammon McNeely

164 | El Capitan
PARTNERS
Even today, the success rate on the Nose is less than 50%. Sure, a lot of people bail because
they didn’t train properly for such a massive wall, and legitimately didn’t have the skills or
endurance they needed. But many other teams retreat because one partner is no longer
psyched. Bigwall partnerships can be intense, so don’t skimp on selection here! Some bigwall
experience can be indicative of future success, so no effort is ever wasted, but taking a
proactive approach to finding the right partner will greatly further your chances of success.
The best thing you can do to ensure your success on the Nose is to find a partner that shares
your stoke. Sounds easy, right? Kinda. But remember that bigwall climbing is to regular day
climbing the way that backpacking is to day hiking. There are probably tons of people you
would enjoy sharing a rope with for a day, though you wouldn’t want to be stuck with them for
three or four days straight. So think about that. On the wall, you can’t get out of the tent and go
for a walk. You’re stuck right next to your partner, through ribaldry and bathroom chores. Pick
your partner for the Nose with excitement, and be confident that you two (or three – read on
where I recommend not to do teams of three on the Nose your first time ;) are going to have
loads of fun, and really climb well together.
Someone who is skipping workouts while at the same time telling you that they’re stoked to
be up there with you is probably not going to last long. There is no denying that climbing all
day for three or four days is very physically challenging. You cannot make up for your partner’s
lack of fitness while you’re on the mountain - everyone must pay their dues!
Often, the reason parties retreat is something went differently than they had planned, and
one partner didn’t like it so decided that the team should go down. Not good! Unexpected
things happen over and over on the wall, because you are not used to thinking in bigwallese,
the language of bigwalls - but don’t worry, you’ll learn ;) You should view every delay, detour,
or changed plan as a helpful suggestion. Everything happens at the right time – the universe
is probably just trying to get you to that perfect place to watch an epic sunset, whether it’s
halfway up the route, or walking back to your car after fixing pitches!

Mash Alexander on the Nose. You see that? THAT is what you need, that’s what you need right there! Photo: Chris Guinn

El Capitan | 165
 TEAM OF THREE
While climbing a bigwall in a team of three is usually the most fun you will ever have on the wall,
this is not necessarily the case on the Nose. True, you will have more time for photos, music, food,
and for noticing all of the awesomeness around you. But a third set of hands ondeck will come
at a serious logistical cost. The Nose traverses so much that it is not the best for teams of three,
because one person is often jugging a sideways rope. I’ve included my rundown for three-person
teams below because hopefully you will climb more bigwall routes than the Nose, because on
nearly every other route a well-dialed team of three is ideal.

The Rules of Climbing in a Team of Three:

It will almost always take longer and be more complicated to climb in a team of three. But when
you do it properly, it will be way, way more fun!
Two of the team members should be fairly experienced, having each climbed five or more
bigwalls, or else two of the team members should have climbed at least one other bigwall
together. So a team of 3 consists of, at minimum, a solid team of two plus a third person. Of
course, the more experience everyone in the team has the better, but as long as you have two
solid people you’ll have a blast.
The reason why this rule is so important is that bigwall climbing is made up of a series of simple
actions that must be repeated over and over. With a team of two, the best action is often clear.
With a team of three, things get confusing fast. If at least two of your team members do not
understand and agree on the best course of action at each point along your climb, you will
spend too much time talking and figuring things out, rather than have the free time to do the
fun things I mentioned above.

The Simplest - and Best Method to Climb in a Team of Three:

This is the way I almost always climb in a team of three. It reduces cluster, and keeps the team
together so you can support each other (and party) more.
Team: Leader, Cleaner, Third / Free Jugger
Sequence:
1. The leader finishes his/her pitch and fixes the haul line to the anchor bolts right away.
2. The third puts the backup hauler, like a Microtraxion (as I explain below, a Grigri will not work
here), onto the haul line and pulls the rope tight.
3. The third puts both jugs on the haul line and lowers out from the anchor, usually just hand-
over-handing down the lower end of the haul line, which is still anchored to the haul bags, which
are still anchored to the mountain.
4. The third jugs up the fixed haul line, with the Microtraxion providing a backup so he/she does
not have to be tied-in with backup knots.
5. While the third is jugging up the haul line, the leader pulls up 12-18 ft of lead rope and fixes it,
and also makes the equalized anchor for the hauling point, then clips in the hauler.
6. When the third reaches the belay, the third clips into the anchor bolts so that the haul line can
be unfixed, and the haul line pulled tight through the hauler.
7. When the haul line is tight, the cleaner lowers out the haul bags and begins cleaning the pitch.

166 | El Capitan
 8. Either the leader or the third, or both, haul the bags while the other gets ready to climb, or
eats and drinks and re-racks. The third can bring up a little food and water.
9. Whoever is not hauling, or the top person if both people are hauling together, coils the haul
line as the bags come up - don’t let the haul line get wrapped in the bags!
10. When the cleaner arrives, the bags should be hauled and the new leader should have eaten
and drunk water, be re-racked and ready to lead the next pitch.

Explanations/Rules About This Sequence:

1. The beauty of this system is that it keeps the team together and doesn’t involve an extra
rope and a bunch of complicated rope tricks.
2. The third cannot use a Grigri as a backup to get off the belay – most pitches traverse and
likely the Grigri will get locked up with the third in the middle of the traverse and will be very
difficult to release or remove. I’ve seen this, and maybe had it happen to me, so many times –
don’t even think about it. Besides, the Grigri picks up rope each time you move up so you are
less efficient jugging with a Grigri than with a Microtraxion. Use the Grigri for cleaning, which
I’ll explain later ;)

You can haul

together if the
bags are heavy, or
the next leader can
get ready while the
When the leader
third person hauls
reaches the belay
he/she fixes the haul
line first
While leading, pay
attention that
the ropes are not
hung up on any horns
or flakes

The cleaner climbs the

lead line using two
Hanging at the belay:
ascenders, and a Grigri
eat, drink, take pics
as a backup
C E 0082

be merry! SWIVEL

PETZL

C E 0082

SWIVEL

PETZL

C E 0082

SWIVEL

PETZL

While the third is

shooting up the
haul line, the cleaner The third (extra) person
breaks down climbs the haul line
the belay and gets using the Microtrax
ready to clean as a backup - pulling the Micro
tight is what allows you to free yourself from
the lower belay and move your daises from the anchor
to your ascenders, which you’ve put on the haul line

Illustration courtesy of andy-kirkpatrick.com

El Capitan | 167
 FIXING Your Ropes
Fixing is the process of climbing the first section of a route and leaving ropes in place, or ‘fixed’ to the
anchors so you can jug them in the future.
Fixing allows you to return to the ground for more supplies and rest, while later offering you
a speedy ascent back up to your high point. The idea is you can climb a fixed rope a whole lot
faster than you can re-climb the mountain. Fixing on the Nose (recommended for most teams)
means bringing an extra rope, as it takes three 60m ropes to fix from Sickle ledge (pitch 4) to
the ground. Sometimes you can network with other teams and share fixing ropes, reducing the
cluster at the rap stations. This isn’t guaranteed, but worth a mention if you find yourself doing
the initial pitches with some friendly folks.
Only a few of the easier El Cap routes, like Nose, Salathé, and Lurking Fear have dedicated rappel
descents, nearby but off the actual route. These rap stations serve as fixing anchors for attaching
your lines. You climb a circuitous path up the route, and then rappel straight down a blank slab
on the rappel route. On most bigwall routes, when you fix, you fix your ropes to the route’s actual
anchors at the top of each pitch. Three dedicated rappel routes on the Nose, which are separate
descents from Sickle, Dolt, and El Cap Towers, are extremely helpful because the route is usually
busy. This means that there will not be ropes tied all over the route that you are trying to climb,
and that people will not be rappelling down while you are mid-pitch. Having a dedicated rappel
route that also serves for fixing ropes is super handy, but only happens on a few routes.
Pros and Cons of Fixing Ropes to Sickle (as opposed to hauling right from the
base of Pine Line Ledge):
Pros:
1. You don’t have to bring all of your stuff with you when you start, and you can go back down to
retrieve things you forgot. This benefit is huge, especially if you are not experienced, and for this
reason alone it’s probably worth fixing to Sickle.
2. You get to try out the climbing and exposure of El Cap without the initial commitment. Fix
down from Sickle and take a hot shower and eat some pizza - you’ll be twice as stoked!
3. Fixing allows you a day to see which other parties are starting the route, and how their
progress is going, without being stuck behind them.
Cons:
1. Fixing to the ground from Sickle Ledge means you will have to climb the first four pitches of
the Nose with three ropes. If there are only two climbers, this means the second may have to
jug with a couple of ropes in their pack, along with water, wind jackets and snacks. This can be a
significant drawback, especially if your second is not sufficiently burly to jug with such a load. If
your second is on the lightweight side – say 115 pounds or less – then maybe it is better to haul
your load up the first four pitches, and just carry on from there. Either that, or the leader could
use the third rope as a haul line to bring up a mini-load so the second doesn’t have to jug with it.
With any luck, you could meet up with another party which is also fixing down from Sickle, and
agree to share their third rope. But the danger here is that it leaves you out of control. What if you
delay and they blast without you?
2. The reality of climbing the Nose – except in the off-season – is that you will be jockeying for
position with a number of other parties. If you blast and haul the first four pitches, rather than fix
down from Sickle Ledge, then you are already on the wall, and you can quickly find a rhythm that
keeps you a pitch or two apart from other parties. Seeing fixed ropes to Sickle is no guarantee
anyone will show up to use them, and the bail rate from this part of the climb is the highest – the
party ahead of you might soon be gone. So don’t be discouraged – bring enough extra time to

168 | El Capitan
 1
120’

The Nose

Sickle Ledge
11a or C2 Rappels

Salathe / Freerider
Base of The Nose

5.9
Pine Line
(pitches -1, 0
on the Nose)

5.5
5.7

Pine Line Ledge 5.3 easiest approach

5.5

To The Sickle Raps

Clearing Below Trail
The Nose

work your way into the queue. If you bivy on Sickle, an alpine start puts you ahead of the “fixers”.
The last years have seen big traffic jams on the lower part of the route, especially at Sickle Ledge.

Practicing on the lower part of the Nose?

When the Nose is busy, please consider climbing other routes to practice, as causing even one team
to delay starting the route because you are slow on the initial pitches could end someone’s dream
climb. Remember, many Nose teams travel great distances to attempt the route!
Nowadays, you can rap from Sickle Ledge with a single 60m rope, and you can rap from Dolt Tower
with one 70m. These new closer-together rap stations should prove useful – it gets very windy on
the Nose, and there have been numerous rescues due to stuck ropes. These new rap stations should
alleviate some of the congestion, since it is more involved to rappel using two ropes.

El Capitan | 169
 EXPERIENCE THE MAGIC
O N T H E WA L L

FOOD
Your attitude fuels you night and day, for sure, but eating good food
helps too. Eat a lot! It will seem like you never have time to eat, or that
you are not hungry. In truth, you will be burning thousands of calories
per day on the wall. Eat a lot! It’s almost impossible to eat enough food
to compensate for calories burned. I try to get in the habit of eating
a little at each belay - sometimes it’s hard to force yourself to eat, but
you’ll feel better and climb stronger as a result.
You’ll do best if you eat the same foods on the wall as you do at home.
Take a variety of food – including a few special luxury items – and
share with your partner. Everything tastes better on the wall!

Breakfast Ideas: Lunch Ideas:

Bagels w/ cream cheese Premade nut butter &
Granola honey sandwiches

Hard boiled eggs Trail Mix

Apples
Dinner Ideas: Cheese sticks
Pasta with veggies & a can
Chocolate
of chili added
Burritos – beans/chili,
cheese, veggies,
Chocolate
Cookies+nut butter
Miso Soup with ramen
packet

170
Dinner Time on Ahwahnee Ledge, Leaning Tower.
Photo: Austin Siadak
 CROWDS and PASSING Other Parties On The Wall
Most likely you will run into other parties on your first few bigwall climbs, so by the time you’ve
worked your way up to the Nose, you will have a handle on how to deal with crowds and
passing other parties. Be helpful and positive!

Rules of Starting, Fixing and Crowds in Bigwall Climbing:

1. There is no starting line at the mountain where you wait patiently for your turn to climb.
Walk up to the first pitch and start climbing it, or wait right there for the party ahead of you to
finish that pitch so that you can begin. You can’t “hold your place in line” on the wall.
1a. The first team climbing is the first team climbing, with no exeptions. It doesn’t matter if you
fixed pitches two days before, and a team is now above your fixed ropes - possibly even having
climbed them, gasp! The first team climbing is the first team climbing. Of course, teams should
always be working together to ensure that everyone has an awesome experience climbing
the mountain. More climbers equals more shared joy, right? But different teams have different
time schedules and goals, so you’ll either have to climb obscure routes with no one on them,
or you should cultivate an attitude that the universe is bringing you together with these other
climbers for a reason. Nearby climbers can be a real help, like when you want someone to take
your picture because you are “hanging ten” on the high granite seas. Another party could also
be your lifesavers, like when your rope gets stuck, or if you were to get injured.
2. Whatever time someone tells you that they and their partner plan on starting up a route,
that time will usually be off by 4-6 hours. For example, if someone tells you they plan to jug up
to Sickle Ledge at 4am and begin climbing at first light, expect to see them on Sickle at 8am or
later, and climbing by 930am. Bigwall climbers do not lie on purpose, this phenomenon is the
result of most people’s inexperience with the complicated nature of bigwall climbing.
3. If someone is climbing a route in a day or is gaining on your party at a steady clip, they will
most likely have to pass you. Safety is always the number one consideration when allowing
someone to pass. For this reason, it’s best if you let the passing party jug one of your ropes
once you’ve reached an anchor. In return, ask them to fix the next pitch for you to mitigate the
time you lost while they were jugging your rope. Working together like this will almost always
result in a low-stress, win-win situation.
It is unconscionable to tell anyone who is climbing significantly faster than you that they
cannot pass you! This would create a negative attitude around your climb, distracting you and
potentially causing you to drop gear or make other mistakes. We all need to celebrate each
other’s success! In no time, the faster team will be high above, and you and your partners will
be back to having the time of your lives, without anyone breathing down your neck.

What to do if someone is on the first pitch when you arrive:

Introduce yourself and your partner and see what the other team’s plan is. If you are planning
on fixing pitches, you should probably wait there. Watch the leader and see how the climbing
looks, and how efficient this team in front of you appears. Take some time to stretch, pull out
the topo, and compare this pitch to the rest. Organize your gear so that when it’s your turn,
you’re ready. If you’re not planning on fixing pitches – like say on Washington Column – you
could leave your gear at the base and go back for the rest of your kit. By the time you return,
you could find this party a ways up the mountain, and the first pitch free.
Never try to pass someone while they are on the first pitch. This is bad form, and shows you are
not as confident as you say you are. If you really can pass someone quickly, then wait for them
to finish and clean the pitch, and then climb up and ask to pass. If they do want you to pass

172 | El Capitan
them, wait until the leader has reached the anchor, or at least a good stance, and quickly climb
through while clipping their gear. Often it is better to get well-racked and prepared at the base,
then have your leader follow the cleaner up the first pitch. This way, both parties’ stuff is kept
separate and the pass at the first anchor is anticipated, so hopefully it proceeds smoothly. Of
course, you should offer to fix their rope on the next pitch in exchange for letting you pass. On
Washington Column, for instance, there are two different second-pitch options for the South
Face routes, so you can easily pass a party by climbing the pitch they’re not on. Always work
together with your new friends. Sometime down the road, when you are badass and cruising
bigwall routes in a day, you might have to pass a team by climbing a pitch that someone else
is climbing. But in the beginning, err on the side of caution when you’re passing, especially on
the first pitch. It’s almost always better to wait comfortably on the ground than be cramped
with the other party at the next belay anchors.
No matter what, take everything the other party says with a grain of salt. Remember that the
bail rate on beginner bigwall climbs is well over fifty percent, so try to focus on making new
friends with these climbers, and checking out how the first pitch looks as they are climbing
it. Make sure that you are totally prepared, so that when it is your turn to climb you have
everything sorted out as much as possible and you are ready to go right away.

Someone has ropes fixed up the mountain when you arrive:

No worries - climb the route exactly as you have planned. If you reach the top of the other
team’s fixed ropes, and start climbing above them, you are now ahead of that team. Of course,
if the other team arrives and starts climbing their ropes and gets above you, then you will have
to wait for them. So make quick friends and continue up behind them. Hopefully you brought
a camera so you can take some pictures, and plenty of good food and drinks so you can enjoy
yourself if you have to hang out a little while.

Party on the Nose! Photo: Tom Evans

El Capitan | 173
 BAILING - How to get off the bigwall and live to tell the tale
Bailing: descending or retreating before reaching the summit
Bail of the Day: the distinction awarded the climbing team that has the most fun after bailing,
usually by bringing food and drinks to the meadow and socializing

To Bail?
A lot has been written about the persistent desire to bail that will accompany you on your first
bigwall climbs. It’s scary up there! But don’t beat yourself up if you come down. If you really
want to climb the Nose, you and your partner will be that much sharper and more dialed next
time. It’s the best route on earth – no harm in doing the lower sections more than once!
Retreating from a climb is often the smartest thing to do. Live to climb another day! When
you have to bail, take your time and double-check your systems. You’ll be down before you
know it, so no need to rush, even if the weather is less than ideal, or if you or your partner have
been injured. Always double-check everything and move smoothly and efficiently. By far the
majority of climbing-related accidents happen during descents, so be careful!
The Yosemite pioneers often talked about being too scared to bail off bigwall routes. This was
because they were using such crude equipment and there were seldom fixed rappel anchors,
so retreating for them was both difficult and costly as they had to leave their gear behind as
anchors. And rappelling from high up can be terrifying!
Times have changed, and Yosemite climbers regularly and easily descend via long rappel
routes like Royal Arches, Serenity to Sons, or Dolt Tower. When you’re on the wall, retreating
with your haulbag adds a logistical hurdle – it is not as simple as rappelling down and clipping
into an anchor. First, you have to put your haulbag on rappel, then you must rappel together
with your haulbag. At the lower anchor, you must then dock yourself and your haulbag,
possibly while hanging in space with nothing to stand on.
Most people bail off the Nose from either Dolt or El Cap Tower, both of which have a dedicated
rappel route that go straight down to the ground. From El Cap Tower, two 60m ropes are
required – the last rappel, straight to the ground, is longer than 60m, so you have to swing
uphill on that one. There is also a rappel route that goes from the summit all the way down,
cutting straight down from the Great Roof and through the Grey Bands to Dolt Tower.

Bailing with all your stuff off the Nose

This can be straightforward because of rappel routes which go straight down to the ground,
but it is never easy. Here is the common scenario:
1. Leader sets up a two-rope rappel through the chains, then also fixes the lead line to the
anchor using two knots on two bolts, He then raps down with the rack to the next lower belay.
This allows the leader to rappel using a Grigri, which allows ‘no-hands’ operation for freeing a
stuck rope or swinging around to reach the next anchor. If the pitch traverses – common on
the Nose, or is overhanging which is not common, then the leader may need to clip gear on
the way down in order to reach the previous anchor, and not end up out in space or off-route.
If the leader has clipped any gear on the way down the pitch, then he/she will need to first
attach the rope to the bottom anchor, and then jug back up to remove the pieces that were
clipped. The leader must then rappel back down again, pulling himself into the bottom anchor
using the tied-off rope.
2. The second unfixes the lead line. Now the ropes are set up for a normal two-rope rappel.

174 | El Capitan
 3. Put the haulbag(s) on rappel by clipping the locking biner on your rappel device to the main
straps of the haulbag.
4. Attach yourself to the rappel system with one of your daisy chains - clip into the biner on the
rappel device, which is attached to the haulbag.
5. Lower out the haul bag so that it is hanging on the rope, and you are holding it with your
brake hand. The leader, at the anchor below, can always help by pulling the ropes tight from
below. This is called a fireman belay – if your partner pulls the ropes tight from below you
should be able to let go with both hands!
6. Double check that everything looks good, and then connect yourself to the rappel system
(the locking biner) with your second daisy chain.
7. Descend (walk) alongside the haulbag. If the pitch is traversing, have the leader help by
pulling you over to the anchor.
8. When you reach the bottom anchor, tie off the haulbag(s) first, same as you did every time
on the wall using a munter mule knot.
9. Connect yourself to the new anchor with your two daisy chains.
10. Remove the rappel device from the rope, and pull the rope.
11. Repeat steps 1–10 until you reach the ground.

The haulbag is still tied in with the lower-out
line, using a munter-mule on the anchor. J will
reach up and lower the haulbag onto the rope,
and release the munter-mule. When she gets to
the next anchor she will first tie off the haulbag
with the lowerout line, then clip herself into the
anchor, and then lower the haulbag onto the
anchor releasing the Grigri.
The rappel device is clipped right into the
straps of the haulbag. The weight of the
haulbag is on the rope, not clipped to any
person. J and W have clipped into the locking
biner on the rappel device. They are about to
attach their second daisies to the locking biner
(always use two clip-ins) - I just snapped this
pic first because it showed the system cleanly.

W, an adaptive climber,
rappels with a buddy.

Jean, member of Team Five Foot, a

This photo is from the East Ledges Descent, so shows a single (fixed) line like
100-pounder, about to rappel with a
you commonly find there, but the system is the same if you are rappelling
full Grade VI haulbag and a teammate
with two ropes. (J is rappelling with a Grigri because it’s a fixed line.)
attached beside her!

El Capitan | 175
 WEATHER
The weather on the Nose can be surprisingly varied. It can be windy and cool in the Stovelegs,
even on ninety-degree days, but roasting hot on the first four pitches a lot of the time. Above El
Cap Tower, it is generally windy and cooler than the rest of the route. Do long hikes and climbs
before you get on the Nose, so you get used to being outside in direct sun all day. In spring and
fall it gets very cold at night, so pack your puffy jacket so you will be motivated to get up early
and break camp.

Huge granite cliffs are COLD in a storm.

Photo: Alexandre Buisse

Rain?
The Nose is an impractical route if you know it is going to storm. An afternoon thundershower
might be okay, but not a full-on soaker. Like Salathé and Lurking Fear, the Nose follows deep
cracks that quickly turn into rivers and waterfalls in a storm. A crack with water running down
it is nearly impossible to climb. The nearby Zodiac route, on the other hand, stays fairly dry
during storms. If you’re dead set on El Cap, and a storm is forecast, check out the Zodiac. It is
by no means perfect – because there is no bigwall in Yosemite that stays completely dry in bad
weather – but Zodiac will be a lot drier than the Nose.

Too Hot?
If the weather turns out to be a little warmer than you anticipated, do yourself a favor and
either get up at dawn to climb the first four pitches, or wait until after 3-4pm when the base
starts to go into the shade. Iit is almost always windy in the afternoon on the Nose, so if heat
is a concern wake up super early (3am) to start the route – it will take longer than you think to
hike up, jug to Sickle, and get ready to lead. Once you’re into the Stovelegs, the heat should be
much more manageable. Just remember, this is a memory you will cherish forever. You won’t
remember being a little tired because you woke up early - what you’ll remember is climbing an
amazing route in perfect conditions. So go for it!

Too Cold?
If the weather is colder than you expected, definitely consider bringing a small stove for hot
drinks and meals. Nothing gets you stoked like hot coffee - maybe with some chocolate - at
5am on the Big Stone! Heating up that soup can and throwing in some ramen at night will
make you feel like you’re back at your favorite food truck.

176 | El Capitan
Timelapse of the King Swing.
 SPEED CLIMBING and the NIAD
Once you’ve climbed the Nose once, you may find that you begin fantasizing about ascending
those endless perfect cracks unfettered by haul lines, haul bags, and the extra gear. Oh, to be
light and fast on the Nose! Just cruising pitches with a good friend, following quickly with a
light pack, maybe even simul-climbing the 5.5 climbing on and off of Sickle Ledge. FreeBird!

Are you good enough? Could you onsight the NIAD?

If you’ve climbed the Nose before, and do some practice speed climbs, it should be easy
enough to tell if you are up for a NIAD.
For most folks, onsighting the Nose in a Day - the NIAD - would be epic. The Nose, while
relatively straightforward, has a million quirky moves that flow much smoother the second,
third, or fourth time you try it. It’s 28 pitches, so a few extra minutes per pitch learning the lay
of the land, could quickly add hours to an onsight attempt. I’d say you’d have to breeze up
Astroman in 6 hours or so, and knock off the Regular NW Face on Half Dome in 8–9 hours, to
even consider trying the Niad onsight. It’s burly, but onsight is the purest style, for sure.

Warmups:
Don’t do more than one Dolt Run! Instead, climb several of these routes to challenge yourself
by using different techniques, and dealing with many varied logistical hurdles.
South Face of Washington Column in 8-10 hours
Northeast Buttress of Higher Cathedral in 6-8 hours
Regular NWF of Half Dome in 16-18 hours
Southwest Face of Liberty Cap in 10-12 hours
Pegasus on Quarter Dome in 9-11 hours

How do you do it?

Fitness is the ultimate requirement for a NIAD. And you need at least one member of your team
to be able to lead 5.10 trad in Yosemite smoothly and quickly. Most likely, you will have already
climbed the Nose once, so personally I would recommend resisting the temptation to endlessly
practice the first 1–9 pitches – you will get a much better challenge, and learn to think more
sharply on a long route, if you do the excellent ‘warm-up climbs’ on the list above.

Does any special equipment make a difference on the NIAD?

Cams: For sure get the lightest cams you can get, because you need an extra set for short
fixing. Totem cams, Fixe Aliens, or BD offset cams are the go-to these days. The Totem’s unique
shape means they fit in the flared pin scars of Yosemite incredibly well. It’s a Totem Life!
Shoes: For sure you need a pair of free shoes that you can wear somewhat comfortably for
several hours, including occasionally standing in aiders. The pair you wore when you climbed
the Nose in bigwall style are probably perfect.
Rope: Just like with traditional overnight bigwall climbs, having a new rope for a big ascent
can put a little extra bounce in your high step. Just make sure to take it to the gym or crag a
couple times before the big climb to get all the kinks and coils out. While many folks bring just
one rope on the NIAD - 60m x 9.6 – 9.9mm is best - 60 meters of 4mm rope weighs just a few
pounds, and could save you from having to leave behind a lot of gear if you have to bail.

178 | El Capitan
Mayan Smith-Gobat setting the Women's Speed Record (4 hrs, 43 min)
on the Nose, pitch 26, 5.10d. Photo: Cheyne Lempe
 BIGWALL FITNESS
The level of fitness you need to climb a
bigwall is difficult to convey. On paper,
it looks like you only have to be good
enough to climb 5.8 C2 to get up the
Nose. That’s true, but you also have
to be fit enough to haul a big load up
each pitch that you lead. You have to be
ready to spend long days in your harness
where even simple things like taking a
pee are a real chore. And you have to be
able to do these things all day in direct
sun, leading in comfy shoes with two
ropes and extra gear on your harness.
Bigwalling is muy strenuous!

Some Training Ideas

Be in excellent physical shape so that you
can have a good experience climbing
the Nose. An hour on a Stairmaster three
times a week, plus a couple nights a
week at the climbing gym is not nearly
enough. You’ll need long days outside
doing strenuous activities. Approach
climbing El Cap the same as you would
prepare for a triathlon: participate in a
variety of physical activities that cultivate
strength and agility.
The pioneer bigwallers were often
carpenters, so the constant sun exposure
and physical nature of the climbing
came easily. For the rest of us, we can
help ourselves out by mimicking these
early climbers: Volunteer to help replace
bolts at your local crag, or to help
your neighbor with his house remodel
projects. Add biking to and from work to
a healthy list of other athletic activities.
Go backpacking with some extra weight
on your back for the weekend. There are
so many paths to good solid fitness, so
find yours and El Cap will feel like the
vertical vacation it should!
Climbing multi-pitch routes for training
is difficult for many climbers, so wearing
a weight belt at the gym and climbing
for say twenty or thirty minutes at a time
can be helpful. The Stovelegs - even this 5.8 section is steep and strenuous

180 | El Capitan
Yosemite Aid Climbing Practice
Showing up in ‘go mode’ is always a good way to roll, but the reality is many folks find it hard
to practice bigwalling before they get to Yosemite, at minimum fix a rope at your gym or your
local crag, and get jumaring dialed!

1. Bolt Ladder
Where: King Air Boulder right across the street from Housekeeping Camp. Alternatively, at your
local climbing gym before your trip.
Equipment: Fifi, Daisy Chains, Aiders
This highball boulder has two short bolt ladders. They are good in the most basic sense, but are
too short to provide real training. Most folks go to Church Bowl and aid Church Bowl Tree (10b
or C1) – there is also an aid route to the right of Church Bowl Tree so you can practice some
hooking and cam hooking there too.

2. French Free and Basic Aid Leading

Where: Any trad cliff! Church Bowl Tree route is super popular, El Capitan Base (La Escuela and
Delectable Pinnacle) can be good, Swan Slab (Aid Route) is good.
Equipment: All you need for French Free is a fifi hook, some shoulder length slings, and maybe
an aider. For basic aiding get a camhook, a regular hook or two, a fifi, and aiders, plus extra
pieces because you place a lot more gear when you are aiding compared to free climbing.

Practicing nailing on toprope at

Aid Route, Swan Slab Delectable Pinnacle, El Capitan

El Capitan | 181
 FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
1. Texas Flake? It’s a long chimney with no protection, right? How hard is it really?
For folks under 5’7”, Texas Flake is scary. For the rest of us it is pretty easy, just pushing your
back up the flake side, with nice ledges for your feet every six feet or so, on the wall side. I really
only lead 5.8/5.9 here and I love that pitch, it doesn’t feel hard at all ... but I’m six feet tall. A 5’7”
or shorter person would have to do an open-legged stem, which is much more difficult and
scary! Same with the King Swing: shorter folks talk about how much harder it is to get enough
momentum going to do the swing.

2. What’s the best way to do the King Swing and lower out your haul bags and clean the
pitch?
The lower out you do to clean the King Swing is only a few feet farther than the one you do off
of the pitch 5 anchor into the Stovelegs. You set it up the exact same way as every other lower
out - super simple. Because the next pitch is long, it’s better to just have the leader pull up and
coil all the extra haul line, rather than tie the haulbag in short. Your 50’ lower-out line will be
perfect for lowering the haulbag off the anchor.

Watch my lowering out video here: https://vimeo.com/4388859

3. If you’re a competent 5.8/5.9 trad climber, where should you plan to bivy each night in
order to do a 3 or 4-day ascent?
Most folks fix to Sickle and sleep on Dolt, Camp 4, Camp 6, and then the summit. It’s hard to
make El Cap Tower your first day, which is why it’s good to sleep on Sickle, but 5.11 climbers do
it all the time. The best approach for stronger teams is to sleep at Sickle, El Cap Tower, Camp 5,
and then the summit – this gets you to the sweeter bivies on El Cap Tower and Camp 5. If you
do not bivy on Sickle Ledge, but hope to make it to El Cap Tower your first night, then you must
have pre-hauled to Sickle the day before, and leave your car by 3am to begin jugging your
fixed lines. So it’s almost always best to bivy on Sickle. You’re on the climb of your lifetime, so
don’t get too worried about your schedule – just enjoy yourselves!

4. Will I be able to haul 1:1 on the Nose, just walking down the wall while the bags move up?
If you weigh more than about 125 lbs, then you will have no problem hauling 1:1 on the Nose
using a Protraxion or Microtraxion. Lighter folks might want to bring a 2:1 hauling ratchet,
which you can attach to the haul system – you will likely use it only for the first couple of days,
then you can put it away. Since you clip a 2:1 in separately from the Protraxion or Microtraxion,
a heavier partner may choose not to use it. I have a couple 2:1 hauling ratchets to loan out, so
email me if you need one!

5. What do I do if the haul bags get stuck?

The bags will get stuck for sure. You can lower them down a foot, then try to haul them back
up past the obstacle. It takes a little practice to reverse the hauling process to lower the bags,
but you’ll figure it out. If no luck, then call down to your partner and wait for them to get to the
bags to free them – sometimes they will have to clean higher than the bags, and then rappel
back down and over to them to do this, but it’s low angle on the Nose, so no biggee. This is
another great reason to always clean with your Grigri on as a backup ;)

182 | El Capitan
5. How much extra water and food should we take in case of bad weather?
I would bring one gallon per person for five days. Even if you are fixing from Sickle you will
want that much, cuz when you jug up to blast you will be thirsty! The most important thing is
to drink a lot, rather more than you think you should. I try to eat a snack and drink some water
at every belay. If you can get into this habit, you will feel better. So what I’m saying is, don’t
worry about ‘saving’ the extra food and water in case it storms - just eat and drink a lot from the
beginning, and you will feel great and climb better. So even if you have to skimp a bit at the
top due to bad weather or being slow, you’ll feel strong and it won’t hurt.

6. How long should my ropes be? Lead line, haul line and lower-out line?
60m lead and haul ropes are best. They are less hassle to deal with than longer ropes, so
you’ll spend less time coiling rope. 50 feet of lower-out line is great - I bring 8mm so I feel
comfortable docking the bags with the lower-out line using a munter-mule knot.

7. Do people really fill their water jugs at Fern Spring?

Of course! Fern Spring water is the best! If you want treated water, then you’ll have to go to one
of the campgrounds. Upper Pines is the easiest as they have a RV water filling station right in
front of the campground on the left.

Visualize your success (and be glad you’ll probably

never have to prussik up a crusty rope 3,000 feet off
the deck). George Whitmore on Summit Day on the
FA of the Nose. Photo: Wayne Merry

El Capitan | 183
 3, 5-8,
1,2,4

THE DAWN WALL

13 14
11
18,10
7a
9, 15,
1) The Nose 16,19
2) Central Scrutinizer
2
3) Tribal Rite 10
4) The Real Nose 1,4 20,21
5) Genesis 8
6) Disorderly Conduct
7) New Dawn
7,13
7a) Passage to Freedom
8) Reticent Wall
9) Adrift 14

10) Free Dawn Wall

11) Mescalito
12) Martyr’s Brigade
14
13) Wall of Early Morning Light 7a
18

14) Space
15) South Seas 9
16) Atlantis 2
8
17) Block Party*
18) Tempest 5
18
19) Pacific Ocean Wall 6 11
20) North America Wall
16
21) El Niño
9

3 18
1,4
6 5 9,11,
7a 7a 7,10, 14
13

8 19,15
1
5 14
2
7
9,11

7a 9 18,16 15
10,11 14

9,13
7
8
6
9
10-13

18,16
15
14
9,10
4
11

7
16

17
16

7a
15 18
9-11
14 17

19 20
6
21

1
13
12

2 4-11 Photo: xRez.com

 10 150’
The Real Nose VI 5.10+ A4
FA: 1984 - Charles Cole, Steve Grossman
25 30’

5.10 chimney 200’ 17 2015 Rack:

loose flake 4 RURPs 140’ 5.5
face
30 Beaks 1.5” piece 24
A3
9 5 KBs, mostly thin
10 LAs 12a var.
100’ 12c
4 Angles: 2 ea 1/2”, 5/8”
5.10/5.11 ow (65m haul to Cams: 3 ea .3”-4”
A1 var. 195’ ) 1-2 ea 6”
1-2 ea 8” (optional) 70’
185’ 16 Offset Cams: 2ea
A3+ Offset Nuts: 1ea
30’ Hooks: all 10c
or
A2 lower
A4 20 Heads C1
5.7 .5-2.5”
8 160’ The 10d
(UNREAL)
Nose
or . 23 120’
5.11 C1
C1 195’ Wild
beauty P
5.7 C2 Stance
Central
bivy for 1 15 10d A0 .4-2” Scrutinizer
A3 135’ or 5.6 trough
5.12
rap route
7
dirty 22 5.10+ R and
“Lynn belay takes hooks (original
A2 Hill Traverse” .3-1.25” route)
(recommended) 10d
or C1
10b 21 185’
A3 or
C1
6
Tribal The (UNREAL) Nose
5.8 lb loose Rite
wild!
rap route - King 13 130’
last rap requires
70m rope A4 90’ 14 Swing
A3+
Boot
10c Flake 10c hands
.5-4” or or
C1 C1
5
185’ 20
4.5”
Eagle 1.5’ x 8’ ledge
5.9 Ledge 110’
C1+ camhook
“Head of
the Charles” 10a lb A4
ow 5.9

A3+ 12

4 5.8
3”
Texas
Flake 185’ 19
New
New 5.9 Dawn
Dawn move
A3+ A2+
5.9 big awkward
flake
3 11 El Cap
Tower
5.7 5.9 R great bivy
5.8 The for 4+ 18 165’
Nose
C1 or New C2
5.10+ Dawn
LAs
5.7
2 Retreat: chimney
Mescalito rap from El
C2 Cap tower A3-
w/ two 70m 10 “Pecker Glory”
ropes
New (70m ropes
Dawn just needed for 17
A2 last rappel to
ground, rest
are 55 - 60m)

Armageddon: 5.10d slab

10d

El Capitan | 185
 Conrad Anker heading into the Bering Straights, Pacific Ocean Wall, El Capitan.
186 Photo: Jimmy Chin
187
 200’ 8
Disorderly Conduct VI 5.9 A4+
FA: May 1998 - Warren Hollinger, Miles Smart, Bart Groendycke

20 Reticent
15
“Out on Bail” Tribal
Rite
Rummy New
Tower Tribal Dawn
Rite

The first ascent team brought a

John Muir “Double 19 10' long pole with a trigger on it
Hotel Jeopardy”
that could engage cams. They
7 New dubbed this the "Tequila Straw"
Dawn and it is a required piece of gear
“Sure Way to
the John Muir” for a subsequent ascent.
6 130’ Reticent “Freedom
for Life”

Lay Lady
Ledge C1 or
5.11 “Bad Call
amazing bivy Bivy” 14 3rd class,
for many .5-3” shuttle
gear
130’
Use 22
5 120’ “30 Days Tequila
in the Hole” Straw
Genesis
C2+ Reticent
C2
18
4 100’ .5-4”

21 160’
C2F or
A2 C3+ or
13
A2+
.5-2” loose
Genesis loose flake!
blocks
3 140’
C3+ or
A2
“In Your Face”
C1 or
5.10 Use
Tequila
Straw
20

C3F New Dawn

Ledge
Genesis
17

200’ 2
360’ to
12
Rack: 200’
ground Tribal 8 RURPs
A2+
Rite hooks
11 130’ 50 Beaks
5 KBs: mostly short, thin “The Sweetness”
The
Nose Boot
20 LAs: mostly short, thin
Angles: 5 ea 1/2”, 5/8” (+2 sawed) Genesis
Flake Genesis
10c hands
2 ea 3/4” (+1 sawed)
or
C1
1 ea 1”
Nuts: 2 ea Genesis
Cams: 3 ea .3”-.5”
4 ea .6-2”
New 2 ea 3”-6”
Dawn 10 110’
1 200’ 70 Heads
Hooks: all
The
Real
RP and Rivet Hangers
Texas 5.8
Nose Flake New Dawn 10’ Tequila Straw 16
Genesis

**64 holes
“Run for
5.9 El Cap Tower Your Life”
9
C2 Mescalito great bivy
for 4+
5.7

A2
Tequila 8
Tower
The
Nose
slab 15

188 | El Capitan
 130’ 22
C2+
21

A2+
20

19

“Freedom For Life” Harding

Roof
18

“In Your Face”

17

“The Sweetness”

16

“Run For Your Life”

Rummy Tower 15

14

“30 Days in the Hole”

13

12
130’ 11
Boot Flake
C1+
Texas Flake
10 110’

El Cap 5.9
9
Tower 5.9+
8 200’
Tequila Tower

John Muir Hotel 7

“Sure Way To The John Muir”

Lay Lady
Ledge 6 130’

11C or C1
120’ 5

100’ 4
C2
140’ 3
C3

200’ 2
A2+

1 200’
New
Dawn

Photo: xRez.com 189

 Genesis VI 5.11 A4
FA: May 1989 - Eric Brand, Doug Englekirk
3rd class 20 200’

130’ C1
24 backclean
160’ 15

C2+ hooks New

A2 Dawn

A4 (crux of the route)

23 160’
A2
C3+ or
A2+ 19 170’
sawed offs,
beaks, loose
offsets flake! small cams A2

C3+ or
A2
beaks

165’
22 Reticent Disorderly 14 140’ loose, shattered
Conduct
Tribal Rite,
Disorderly Conduct
New Dawn A2
Ledge
A4
no cams thin “The Golden
on pitch Corner”
C3
or A2 NO!
Disorderly
Conduct beak
18 160’ 180’ haul to
150’ Schneiderado ledge
13
C1
1’ x 6’
ledge beaks
110’ 21 A3+
thin
Disorderly
Harding A4 Conduct
Roof wild roof exp
crack “The Blade”
C3F A3
loose
blades,
C2 Disorderly beaks
Conduct 5.10
Disorderly loose
Conduct
20 17 120’
150’ 12 5.8 11b or

A2+
Rack: 10b A0
A2
hooks 30 Beaks
3 Angles: 1 ea 1/2”-3/4” Schneiderado
Ledge
2 Sawed Angles: 1 ea 3/4”,1”
Disorderly Nuts: 1 ea micro, 2 ea regular
Conduct A3 hooks
Cams: 2 ea .3”-1.5” 15’ x 2’ or 5.10R
The A3 11 130’ OK bivy for 2
Nose 3 ea 2”-4”
A3+
1 ea 5” (If climbing the Nose, only one 4” piece is needed)
Hooks: 2 ea all
Texas New hooks, heads
Flake Dawn
Camhooks: all sizes
16 170’
10 RP Hangers
10 10 Thin Wire Hangers
A2
5.9
exp
El Cap
Tower New
Dawn .
The
Nose most parties climb
New Dawn To El Cap Tower 5.10R, A0

15

190 | El Capitan
 130’ 24
C2+

C3+ or A2+ 160’

23

165’ 22
C3 or A2
21 110’
Harding C2
Roof 20 200’

A2

170’ 19
The Golden Corner A4
18 160’
A3+
17 120’
A3
16 170’
A2
160’ 15 5.10R A0

A4
14 140’
A2
150’ 13
The Blade (A4)
150’ 12
A2+
11 130’
A3+
10

El Cap Tower

Dolt
Tower

Lay Lady
Ledge

The Stovelegs

The New Dawn

Nose

Sickle Ledge

Photo: xRez.com 191

 Tribal Rite VI 5.8 A3+
FA: October 1978 - Walter Rosenthal, Tom Carter, Alan Bard

To reach the start of Tribal Rite, climb either the Nose or New Dawn to reach the Boot Flake.

The
Carrot 5 140’
3rd class slab

130’ shuttle gear 9 150’

C3 12
exp sloping
ledges
.5-.75” C2
Reticent A3 fixed
“RURP Pitch” RURPs
fixed heads
fragile flake

140’ 4
11 160’ A3 beaks
2’x12’ ledge
C3 or
3” A2
fixed heads loose
flake! 160’ 8

C3+ or A2 beaks
A2+ hooks A2
many sawed
angles, beaks
3 150’
5.7
10 160’ Reticent
heads, beaks
C2
.5-1” Central .5-3”
Scrutinizer 5.3 New Dawn Ledge loose flake
stay
Central C2+ low
Scrutinizer W.O.E.M.L.
a couple of Disorderly
rivets missing Conduct
A2 beaks

fixed
heads
2 140’ .4-1”
C2 hooks

easy free
A3
beaks 9
120’
7

2’x7’ ledge

Central
Rack: Scrutinizer .6-2”

Central C2+ 15 Beaks: 5 ea #1-#3 C3

awk or
Scrutinizer 2 LAs: 1 ea #2, #3 A2

belay takes
2 Angles: 1 ea 1/2”-5/8”
6 160’
1 120’ 1-1.5” 6 Sawed angles: 1 ea 5/8”,11/4”
loose
2 ea 3/4”, 1”
Nuts: 2 ea
Cams: 2 ea .3”-.4”
.4-1.75” C3F or 3 ea .5”-3”
A3 1-2 ea 4” or 5” (for The Nose or A3
fixed
New Dawn leading up to Tribal Rite) heads
.4-1.5”
Offset Cams: 2 ea
15 Heads: mostly small/medium
bivy for 1 Hooks: 2 ea
Disorderly Camhooks
The Conduct
Nose Boot 15 - 20 Rivet Hangers C3+
Flake
Bolt Kit
5

.
The
Nose
The FA of this climb endured a three-day storm and thus took three days longer
than planned. The team topped out with empty stomachs and deep snow to
negotiate on the descent - a true tribal rite!

192 | El Capitan
 130’ 12
Tribal Rite climbs spectacular cracks right on the
C2
11 160’
edge of the overhanging Dawn Wall. Characterized
by fun, moderate climbing and awesome bivy
C3+ or A2
ledges, Tribal is mega-classic, and is a logical step up
10 160’
from Zodiac, Squeeze Play, or the Shield.
C2
150’ 9 Plan: Most teams approach the route via New Dawn

W.O.E.M.L.
“RURP Pitch” A3 to the Nose, which provides a continuous, spectacu-
160’ 8 lar route at moderate difficulty. Other teams
approach via the much faster Nose; a few have even
A2 started on Grape Race, although you miss the first
120’ 7 pitch of Tribal Rite if you do that start. Plan on 5 - 7
C3 or A2 nights on the wall.
160’ 6
A3 The Elements/Retreat: Mostly sunny until early to
The Carrot mid-afternoon, this is a windy part of the mountain.
140’ 5 The morning sun can be hot and stifling, but by
C3 afternoon it can be breezy and cold.
4 140’

A2+ Tribal is free from major watercourses, but is very

150’ 3 exposed in a storm. To retreat, rappel the route.
C2+ FA History: Walter Rosenthal, Tom Carter, and Alan
140’ 2
A3
Bard made the first ascent in October, 1978. The
team got along really well, and the climbing went
120’ 1
smoothly except for three days lost to storms.
A3 The storms led to a rescue on a nearby route, and
Boot Flake nearly to the trio picking a different name for their
route. ”My mom knew some of the guys in Camp 4,”
recalled Carter, “so she called up a friend and SAR
Texas Flake
member who had been up in the helicopter during
El Cap Tower the rescue. ‘Are those guys okay?’ she asked. My
friend replied, ‘Oh, yes, Mrs. Carter, in fact we just
lowered them some warm milk and cookies.’ So we
almost named the route Milk and Cookies.”
Dolt
Tower Rosenthal led the crux, ”RURP” pitch, where he
placed 29 RURPS in a row, while his bros cheered
Lay Lady him on!
Ledge
They topped out after 11 days on the wall,
and struggled down the snowy descent, their
stomachs growling.
Carter explains the route name, “We just couldn’t
The Stovelegs believe we were so lucky to be able to do a first
ascent on El Cap. Even back then everybody was
The New Dawn thinking El Cap was climbed out. We thought, ‘Look
Nose at this amazing line.....it must be our Tribal Rite!”

Sickle Ledge

Mescalito

Photo: xRez.com 193

 Texas
Flake New
Dawn
Passage To Freedom VI 5.13d
FFA: November 2019 - Tommy Caldwell, Alex Honnold
El Cap Tower
11 great bivy
for 4+
130’
5.7 27
5.7
5.12
10 165’
22 220’ “Tokyo 2020”
Rack:
12 10a ow
aid
belay
2 ea to #1
W.O.E.M.L. 1 ea #2, #3 12c
The Nose 5.13
9 170’
“Paris 2024”
5.10
Girdle
Traverse
130’
8 13a 26 150’
Lay Lady 21
Ledge 5.11 tiny cams
amazing bivy 5.9
for many
P
haul on .5-3”
face not
in corner
7 80’ 5.11 finger-
sized piece slabby ledge
The 13d
150’ 20
Bismark
P 13b
140’
nice 19
12b portaledge
6 120’ bivy
fixed nuts Wino
Tower

Ret
.5-6”

icen
5.11

t
5.9 ramp
13a
13d
8’ horizontal Wino 19 120’ aid line 150’ 25
dyno Tower New Dawn
Ledge
5 100’

5.10+
5.10
130’ 19
18
5.12
takes .75 or #1 camalot
150’ 15
belay takes 13a
.75 camalot 5.12
C3 hooks 13b 13c
100’ 17
100’ 4 “The Tommy Traverse” 100’ 16
11c 80’ 24
“Lynn Hill WEML stance
5.12 Traverse”
Harding
10b Roof
old anchor Dawn Wall 13b wild roof
crack
13d (5.12)
140’ 3 “Alfa Romeo Slab (13d A0)” loose
The Canoe
13c

12d 170’ 14 King

Swing

10c
215’ 23 belay
12c takes 2”, 3”
4.5”

110’
Eagle “As Good
As It Gets”
10a lb Ledge
70’ 2

.4-3”

11c
fingers 13c
10d
135’ Mescalito
1
12b
120’ 13
C2

C2 5.9
.4-2” 22

(nice stance)
Jardine
50’ Traverse (12a)
slab
600’ to
The Nose 12

194 | El Capitan
 27 130’
“Tokyo 2020” (5.12)
26 160’
13d

New Dawn Ledge

25
145’
5.12
Harding 24 80’
Roof 13c
215’ 23

“As Good As It Gets” (13c)

220’22
“Paris 2024” (5.13)
21 165’

5.11

20 150’
12b

Wino Tower 19 140’

The Tommy Traverse (13b) 13d

130’ 18

13a
The
15
150’
Nose 100’ 100’
17
16
10b 11c
170’ 14
Dawn
11c Wall
120’ 13 50’
5.7 70’ El Cap
11

Jardine Traverse (12a) 12 5.7

Tower
10 165’

10a
9 170’
5.10
Lay Lady
Ledge 8 130’
11C
80’
7

13b
6 120’

13a
100’ 5
5.12

13d 4 100’

140’ 3
12d
80’ 2 10d

135’ 1
12b

Photo: xRez.com 195

 New Dawn VI 5.7 A2+ or C3+
FA: June 1972 - Charlie Porter

8 170’
1.25” 150’ 17
(.75 camalot) loose 23 145’
blocks
3rd class slab C1 or
shuttle gear 12c
5.10 ow 130’
or C1 25 .5-6”
1-5” Girdle C1 or grass
Reticent 5.9
Traverse C3 C2+ or 5.12
or A2 5.10+ 200’
7 130’ var. Reticent 16
Reticent
Lay Lady C2+ don’t haul
to here Wino
Ledge C1 or or
Tower Reticent
amazing bivy 5.11 5.12
for many nice
160’ 24 portaledge
haul on .5-3” C3+ or bivy
80’ 22
face not A2+
in corner stance
Harding sawed offs,
6 120’ beaks,
Roof wild roof offsets
5” 13d var.
crack
C3F
C3+ or
C2 A2 or 5.11
or C3
C2 fixed
13b or heads
13c
free
.5-5” belay
5 100’ 21
23 Reticent
Tribal Rite,
100’ Disorderly Conduct
Genesis
New Dawn Ledge
C2F or C2
A2 or 150’
Rack:
15
13a 13c many
.5-2” Passage small
to Freedom cams
8’ horizontal 9 Beaks: 3 ea
dyno 3 LAs: 1 ea #2, #3, #4
4 140’ 140’ 20 6 Sawed Angles: 2 ea 5/8”-1”
(pitch 25 uses many sawed
C1grass or C3 pitches 14-17
5.10 Reticent angles) fixed have many
5.12 Nuts: 2 ea (inc. offset micro) heads bad rivets
A2+ move
C3 or
A2 Cams: 2 ea .3”-1.5”
or 3 ea 1.75”-5”
13c 14 150’
C3 hooks Offset Cams: 2 ea
10 Heads
Passage 100’ .5-1”
to Freedom Hooks: 2 ea
150’ 3 Camhooks
5.12 19
360’ to C3
ground (nice stance) 20 Rivet Hangers: inc. keyholes and fixed
heads
thin-wired
13d
Bolt Kit - most rivets are original
“Alfa Slab” 13d A0 140’ 12
C3F
50’ 13 120’
The
Nose C3F
Genesis C3 large or A2
or A2 hooks WOEML

C2F
150’ 2 Texas Reticent
Flake
19 120’
C2 fixed heads 11
or12c hooks and cams
180’ haul
to 9 C2 or Space,
5.9El Cap Tower A1 Beaks Martyr’s
50’ Brigade
10
5.8 or C1 great bivy
70’ for 4+
5.7 C2 18 165’
.4-3”
The Reticent cool 5.9 or
Real 9 165’ C1
Nose ledge
C1 or The Nose Martyr’s PP 110’
10d Brigade
.75-2”
135’ Mescalito for belay
1
12b Space
10a ow
C2 or C1
In 1851, geologist Dr. Lafayette Bunnell of the 5.9 or
many
large Mariposa Battalion, among the first white C2
cams Mescalito,
C2 people to see Yosemite, estimated El Capitan's Space
.4-2” height to be 1,500 ft. A San Francisco newspaper
believed this to be an outrageous overestimate,
8
and made him reduce his estimate in half before 17
slab The
publishing it. Bismark
600’ to
The Nose

196 | El Capitan
 26 130’
C2 New Dawn is a moderate odyssey up the
New Dawn Ledge 160’
25
incomparable Dawn Wall. Where the earlier
Wall of Early Morning Light climbs bolt ladders
C3+ or A2+ 24 145’ up its lower third, New Dawn climbs fun clean
C3 or A2 cracks, and visits two awesome ledges before
Harding 23 110’ joining WOEML after El Cap Tower. The epically
C3F
Roof 22 100’
awesome ledges make ND feel a tad easier
C2 than nearby Mescalito, but it’s also less classic
21 140’ because of its higher bolt count. ND is similar
C3 or A2 to Mescalito and is a natural step up from
Zodiac or Squeeze Play.
180’20
C2 Plan: Fix three pitches with two 60m ropes,
165’
19 and then plan on four to six nights on the wall.
5.11 or C2 It’s good to prehaul if you hope to make it to
Lay Lady your first night on the wall.
18 150’
The Elements/Retreat: New Dawn gets
12b or C1
intense early morning sun, but can be windy,
Wino 17 200’ shady and cold in the afternoon.
Tower
C3F Fairly steep, ND is not the worst place to be in a
storm, but it’s not nearly as protected as the
16 150’
steeper Southeast Face routes. In winter, large
C3F pieces of ice bombard the face after a storm. To
150’
15 retreat rappel the route, down-aiding and
C3F pendulums are required.
C3 or A2
100’ 14 70’ FA History: Charlie Porter made the first
100’ 12 13
C3F
C2F ascent solo in 1972, though the route had
5.9 11 50’ or A2 Dawn been nearly completed earlier by a strong
Wall
El Cap 10 70’ team lead by Yvon Chouinard. Yvon’s buddy
Tower 5.7
9 165’
Royal Robbins had famously chopped the first
W.E.M.L two pitches of the nearby route Wall of Early
Morning Light during its second ascent, -
10a ow or C1
objecting to the number of bolts used - 328! -
8 170’ and had pioneered this start to the route, but
5.10 ow or C1 had bailed from a couple pitches above El Cap
Lay Lady Tower because of a shortage of bolts.
Ledge 7 130’
Porter had his issues too. On one of his first
11C or C1
nights on the wall on Lay Lady Ledge, he
6120’ accidently dropped one of his haulbags
13b or C2 containing most of his food, his hammock and
100’ 5
sleeping bag. Porter described his mulitple
C2F hanging bivis, “I slept in a belay seat with my
4 140’ upper body in a chest harness and my feet in a
A2+ haulbag. I made a tunic out of my ensolite pad
150’3 by cutting a hole in the middle.” Amazing!
A2+ Thank goodness this climb visits several
150’ 2 awesome ledges! Nonetheless, the climbing
C2F went smoothly and Porter topped out after
eleven days. But he was very hungry!
135’ 1
Mescalito,
C2 Free Dawn Wall

Photo: xRez.com 197

 Reticent Wall VI 5.7 A4+ 200’ 15
FA: November 1995 - Scott Stowe, Steve Gerberding, Laurie Reddel
A4

150’ 8

A3 Martyr’s
New
Dawn 3rd class A4+ Brigade
.4-2” shuttle gear
80’
7 130’
21
WOEML
amazing bivy Lay Lady 50’
for many Ledge New 14
C1 or A1 Wino
5.11 Dawn Tower 5.9
belay takes
nice 13 200’ .5-1”
.5-3” portaledge
175’ 20 New bivy
Dawn exp
6 120’
5”

A2
C2 .5-2”
or
13b
Rack:
.5-5”
free
belay A4+ Beaks: 8 ea #1
5 100’ fragile 10-15 ea #2, #3 Martyr’s
Brigade
7 LAs: 2 ea #2, #3
C2F or Martyr’s 1 ea # 1, #4, #5
A2 Brigade
13a 1 Angle: 1/2”
.5-2” Passage Martyr’s
Brigade
4 Sawed Angles: 1 ea 1/2”- 1” 12 200’
to Freedom 80’ 19 5.7
8’ horiz. New Dawn
et al.
Nuts: 1 ea
dyno
A2 Cams: 3 ea .3”-4”
New Dawn
4 140’ Ledge 1 ea 5”
18 190’
Offset Cams 2-3 ea
C1 or big
5.10 heads 20-30 Heads: inc. circles flake 4”

A2+ move Hooks: 2 ea

A3
A3
Camhooks
25 Rivet Hangers: inc. keyholes
C3 hooks and thin-wires
many
KBs, beaks
65m Ropes (60m barely ok)
Passage
to Freedom 11 160’
150’ 3
360’ to 5.12
ground
**87 holes on FA (kinda bs as some A3
The Irie 17 190’ belays were drilled vertically)
dyno 2’x2’ ledge
C3F 3.5”
“Alfa Slab”
A2+ move 13d A0 A3 Free
Dawn Wall
A3
WOEML
New
150’ 2 Dawn
The upper portion of the Dawn Wall 10 200’
is the source are of the largest rockfall
C1
C2 fixed heads yet identified in Yosemite Valley. 3,600
or 12c years ago, a rockfall that could fill three exp WOEML
16 200’
football stadiums came off this part of
hooks and cams
the wall. This event was possibly timed nice
5.8 stance C2 or
or C1 with a large earthquake in the Long Valley, A1
The A3
Real leading to the hypothesis that the largest New
Nose .4-3”
rockfalls in Yosemite are triggered by Dawn
earthquakes.
C1 or heads
10d A3
exp
1 135’
Mescalito 165’ 9
C2
12bR var.
A4
C2
.4-2”
A3R
.4-3”

5.9
slab
or 5.7 & hooks
15 8
600’ to
The Nose

198 | El Capitan
 80’
21

A1
175’ 20
A4+
80’ 19 A2
New Dawn Ledge 190’ 18
A3

The Irie Reticent climbs thin, beautiful cracks straight up

190’17 the Dawn Wall. After the initial pitches on New
A3 Dawn, Reticent takes off with barely any cam
placements. This route is sustained! After 30-plus
200’ 16 ascents, it is not considered one of the hardest
routes on El Cap, but Reticent is still hard. This is
the perfect A4 route - hard but not overly danger-
A3 R ous or too much copperheading (heads get fixed
200’ 15 and are then not much fun to climb). Reticent is a
logical step up from Shortest Straw or South Seas.
A4+ It is about the same difficulty as Sea of Dreams, but
easier than Jolly Roger or Disorderly Conduct.
Wino 50’
14

Tower 5.9 Plan: Most folks fix to pitch 3 with two ropes, and
200’ 13
then spend six to eight nights on the wall. If you
A2 are shorter than 5’ 10” bring a short cheater stick or
extended rivet hangers for reachy rivets. While
200’ 12 established with 60m ropes, it is nicer to have 70m
ropes.
A3
The Elements/Retreat: Reticent gets first sun, and
160’ 11 can be hot, but is also much cooler and windy in
A3 the afternoon. This is a steep route, but the face
does see significant icefall after a winter storm. To
200’ 10 retreat, rappel the route.
A3
FA History: Steve Gerberding, Scott Stowe, and
Laurie Reddel made the first ascent over ten days
165’ 9 in November, 1995. Gerberding famously ran out
A4 of copperheads before the penultimate pitch.
New Dawn 150’ 8 “That is the only pitch I ever rated A5. Strung out
A3
on beak tips and hooks on loose flakes, high above
Lay Lady Ledge 7 130’ a ledge, I prayed the features would run out so
11C or C1 that I could drill a rivet, but they never did.” Gerber-
ding and Stowe established or repeated - often in
6 120’ a day! - many of the hardest routes on El Cap. Steve
13b or C2
100’ 5
still shows up every year to climb El Cap, still
climbs A4 routes like they’re C1. Scott and Steve
New Dawn C2F
are known for not being so talkative, lol, but Steve
140’ 4

A2+ has gotten less reticent with age ;)

150’ 3
A2+
150’ 2
C2F

135’ 1

C2
Photo: xRez.com 199
 Free Dawn Wall VII 5.14d
FA: January, 2015 - Tommy Caldwell, Kevin Jorgeson

17 80’

Mescalito
New
Dawn
14a 8’ dyno or climb the Loop Pitch
no hands
rest after
dyno 50’
40’
Band of fine-grained 14 13
16 15 90’ 14d p
white rock called “Aplite”
13c 14c rap to good few
Loop 14c portaledge .4-4”
bivy 13b p
Pitch
Loop Pitch is
14a 12 13b 14b
Base 105’
dyno bypass
Camp Girdle
1’X8’ Traverse p
ledge gear belay
160’ 11 3”
Rack: The Molar
Traverse
13c

120’ 5 15-20 Beaks: 10 ea #3, Girdle

Anchorage 5 - 8 ea #2, 3 -5 ea #1 Traverse
Ledge
.4-3” Nuts: 1 ea micro, 1 ea regular 7”
Cams: 2 ea .33”-.5” 5.9

3 ea .75” - 1.5”
Martyr’s
12d 1 ea 2” - 7” Brigade
5 Rivet Hangers 120’ 10 12b
Many pitches require pitons
4 130’
to lead. Aid parties tend to 14b
remove fixed pins, so plan on
.5-3.5” 3 ropes to first aiding many of the pitches
ground wet
to establish the protection. .4-4”
12b

WOEML
9 150’
130’ 3

Adrift

5.12

13c
p
.4-1.5” 13b
p
30’ 8

130’ 2
14a 13d
fixed WOEML
heads
13a 7 100’
beaks

.4-2”
6 190’

110’
130’ 1

fixed heads
11a
New no cams on
Dawn pitch 1
12b

13c
5.8
The Seagull

slab

The Nose 120’ 5

600’ Mescalito
Anchorage
Ledge
.4-3”

200 | El Capitan
 Free Dawn Wall Page 2 40’ of 3rd class
32

25 12b

5.11 1’x10’
ledge

24

New Mescalito
Dawn 31 190’
5.10 ow
12a

5.11 R Space Mescalito

11b ow

12b
23 29
Mescalito, 12c
5.9 Space 30
12b awk

Tempest
28 95’
5.11
sloping Ship’s
The ledge Prow
150’ 22
Bismark 12c

.4-4”
12c

27 140’
.5-6”
Reticent,
Martyr’s
Brigade 5.9
11c
Wino 21 120’
Tower
nice
portaledge Reticent,
bivy Martyr’s
Brigade 5.9
6.5”

26 145’
aid line
13c

.4-2.5” 11d

140’ 19
20
11a

25

13c 1’x10’
ledge

aid line
Tommy Caldwell started the Free Dawn Wall project in the winter of 2007. For three years he worked the line, mostly
13b alone, often spending several days at a time on the wall.
18
40’ 19

The Canoe In 2010, Tommy attempted the route ground-up with a few supportive belayers, until water seeping on Pitch 10
100’ 17
18 stopped him. Tommy started to think he might need a partner for this route. - this beast was hard! Soon after he met
Kevin Jorgeson, a boulderer who had never climbed El Cap. Kevin asked to join the project and Tommy agreed. In 2011,
the duo attempted their first ground up push until pitch 12 stopped them. In 2012, they continued to work on the
middle section of the route.

In 2013 after spending several weeks on the project, Tommy was injured while hauling supplies and the two had to
13d
postpone a ground-up push yet again. Tommy and Kevin returned in 2014. By December, they had led the last
remaining cruxes - pitches 14 and 15 - and the stage was set for another ground-up push. They started up the wall on
Dec. 27, 2014 and arrived on the summit on January 14, 2015.
stance above roof
In 2016, Adam Ondra, age 23, astounded the climbing world by repeating this route over five weeks for his first-ever
17 80’ Yosemite climb (he took his Dad up the Nose on a rest day during the five weeks). Adam dodged several storms during
this time, finishing with an eight-day push from bottom to top. After sending, Adam remarked, "These pitches are not
only bold, but freaking hard too!" In the end, he rated several pitches harder than Tommy and Kevin had.

El Capitan | 201
See more of Corey’s work at:
storiesbehindtheimages.com

Kevin Jorgeson at the (pitch 15) crux of the Dawn Wall.

 32

12b
31

12b 29 12b 12c

30

95’ 28 Ship’s Prow

12c
27 140’

11c
26145’

11d
25

5.11
24

5.11 R
23

5.11
22 150’
12c
Wino Tower 21 120’
13c

140’20

13c
40’ 19 13b
18 100’

80’ 17 14d
14a
50’ 40’
16 1514c 14
13 13b
90’ Molar Traverse
14a 105’ 12

14b 11 160’
W.O.E.M.L. 13c
40’
120’ 10
14b
9 150’
30’ 8 13b
14a 7 100’

190’ 6

13c
120’
Anchorage Ledge 5

12d
130’ 4

12b
130’ 3
13c
130’ 2
13a
130’ 1

12b

Photo: xRez.com 203

 Mescalito VI 5.7 C3F or A2
FA: October 1973 - Charlie Porter, Steve Sutton, Hugh Burton, Chris Nelson

Rack:
4 Beaks: 2 ea #2-#3 WOEML sloping
105’ ledge
Nuts: 2 ea micro, 1 ea regular 9 19 160’
Cams: 3 ea .3”-3” Adrift Space 10a lb
2 ea 4”, 1ea 5” or C1
5.12 10”
1 ea 10” (optional) or
C2+
Offset Cams: 2 ea
13c The
5 Hooks: 1 ea Talon (or bathook)
Bismark
2 ea Cliffhanger, 8 135’
C1
or 12a
Grappling
Camhooks: 1 ea narrow, wide 13d sweet bivy 18 80’
13d for 3
WOEML
9 Heads: 3 ea #2-#4 5.7
12 - 16 Rivet Hangers C1 Keep the
summit clean!
40’ of 4th .5-2”
C3 class
17 120’
7 110’ 26 110’ 5.6
5.5
.3-2”
C3 fixed head

.5-2”
C2+
C2 grass Reach Hook bad bolts
13c 16 135’ Adrift
heads
Adrift and The Seagull 6 90’ 25 80’
Free Dawn link 24 &25 bad bolts
Wall C2 w. 60m fixed
.4-2” C3
rope 4” 10a loose or A2+ heads
Martyr’s
Brigade 5.7 or hooks
Anchorage few
Ledge 120’ 5 C3 .3-1.5”
24 100’
fixed heads
Dawn 140’ 15
Direct .5-3.5”
.4-3” Free
C1 Dawn Wall
or C3
C3 or 12b awk few or A2+
12d .3-1”
bad bolts

4 130’ p 23 95’
A2
C2+ or Ship’s
.5-3.5” 3 ropes to C1 5.11 Prow 135’ 14
ground or sloping
12c ledge C1 Space
Dawn .4-4”
Direct
1-5”
C2+ or 12b 22 140’ (7-8” optional)
5.9 squeeze
130’ 3 or C1
Martyr’s
Brigade
80’ 13
C2 awk 5.4
or Free Dawn
11c Wall C2
few
.4-1.5” .4-3.5”
C2+ Adrift
or 5.9 5” C2
13c or or 13b
C1 21 145’
105’ 12
C2+ or 14b
130’ 2
Girdle C2
Traverse 13d
160’ 11
fixed
C2+or heads C2+
.4-3” C3 hooks
13a or 11d Martyr’s The Molar or 13c
Brigade Traverse
.4-1.5” Girdle
6” Traverse
C3 or 5.9
150’ 11a or
30’ Ledge Traverse 20 C1
130’ 1 p Martyr’s
Brigade
fixed heads Free 5.11 var. 1’x10’ C1
no cams on C3 or 11a Dawn Wall ledge C2 hooks
120’ 10
pitch 1 in the 1990s William and Damian Benegas, or 12b
New circuitous C2+
Dawn pitch C2 famous climbers from Argentina, trained for or fixed
12b .4-3” fixed the big mountains of Patagonia, Everest, etc. 14b heads
heads
5.8 by repeatedly speedclimbing Mescalito, .4-3.5”
usually in around 24hrs.
use long slings
19
C2
slab
9

The Nose The

600’ Bismark

204 | El Capitan
 110’ 26
C2+
10a or C1 25 80’
Mescalito is the prize moderate of the 24 100’

flawless Dawn Wall. Easily one of the ten C1 or 12b

best routes on El Cap, Mescalito dazzles with 23 95’

miles of clean, beautiful small cam cracks C1 or 12c

and an epic location. There is only one Ship’s Prow
140’ 22
sleepable ledge on the route, which along
C2 or 11c
with all the traversing, gives Mescalito a
committing feel even though technically it is 21 145’
quite moderate. Mescalito is like two
C3 or 11d
Zodiacs stacked on top of each other. Climb
Squeeze Play or the Shield before you climb
20 150’
Mescalito. C2
19 160’
Plan: Most folks find it beneficial to fix to
pitch 4 and haul straight from the ground The Bismark (C1 or 12a)
on intermediate stations, as the first few 18 80’
pitches are thin so can seem spooky. These 5.7
17 120’
pitches also have a few fixed copperheads,
so if one of them comes out or is missing, it C3 or A2+
might slow you down a bit. Plan four to six 16135’
nights on the wall, making sure to spend
extra time on Bismark Ledge, one of El Cap’s C3 or A2+
finest bigwall campsites. 140’ 15
C3 or A2+
The Elements/Retreat: Bright and warm to
hot in the morning, Mescalito is shady and 14 135’
much cooler in the afternoon. While steep, 5.9 and C1
Mescalito is not protected during a storm. 80’ 13
The traversing nature of the route can make C2 or 13b
Molar Traverse (C2+ or 14b)
it difficult to retreat - especially in the rain - 105’ 12

11 160’
as you will have to down-aid and pendulum. C2+ or 13a
Climb prepared, and bring the belay seat! FA History: Steve Sutton, Charlie
120’ 10 Porter, Hugh Burton, and Chris Nielson
C2+ or 14b spent ten days on the first ascent in
9105’ October 1973. They placed only 70
C2+ bolts on their climb, and that number
8 135’ could have been even lower if they had
C3 chiseled copperheads and drilled
7 110’ hooks, practices that were becoming
C2 popular among some first ascentionists.
Free 90’ 6
Dawn 120’5 Seagull (C3)
Wall Anchorage Ledge Sutton explained, “It would be better to
12d or C3 place a bolt than to carve the rock. We
130’ 4 never chiseled heads. We thought
chiseling was A1. You might as well just
12b or C2+ place a bolt.” This ethic was tested early
130’ 3 on when Sutton took a fall and pulled
13c or C2+ several heads on the Seagull pitch.
Unable to get the heads back into the
130’ 2
thin placements, he placed three bolts.
13a or C2+ The FA team felt like Mescalito was one
130’ 1 of the greatest routes they had ever
12b or C3 Photo: xRez.com
climbed. “It’s the power of peyote.”
 Space VI 5.10 A4+ 28
FA: July 1985 - Charles Cole
A2

The long
Bismark pitch
9 A3
sweet bivy 19 80’
A3+ for 3
exp
5.7
.5-2” 27

18 120’

Pitches 6-8 fell off 5.6

8 100’
in 1997 rockfall A3+
C2+ heads
.3-2”

loose
17 135’
26
ledge

C3F fixed
7 or A2+ heads

few A3
.3-1.5” RURPs
A1
A2
4.5” 140’ 16
25
stay
right
C3F
few or A2+ A1
.3-1” nuts

A2
link 14 &15 w. 65m rope good
15 ledge
6 70’
24
C1
Tempest,
14 Atlantis
A4+
heads Mescalito A3
A4
heads
13
5 60’ Martyr’s
Brigade long
A3+ A4 pitch
“Pillar of thin
the
4 Community”
A3 A4-
heads
3 35’
stance Charles Cole's Yosemite bigwall resume is 12
23

A2 & impressive - 5 FAs of A4 or A5 routes on A3+

free long
El Cap or Half Dome. He was also the founder pitch
2
of Five Ten shoes, which he sold to Adidas in 2012. A2 beaks,
South New heads
Seas Dawn
A3 A3
RURPs 22

Martyr’s 5.9 C2
Brigade 20 Mescalito

A3 South Seas, 21
Tempest, 5.9 or
1 Atlantis C2
11

keep
South left The
Seas Bismark
Block 19
A2
A4+
heads
Party exp 1996 Rack:
Tempest 5 RURPs
10
10 KBs
A4+ 20 LAs
Gollum loose
9 Angles: 3 ea 1/2”-3/4”
3rd
Cams: 4 ea .4”-3”
slab
2 ea 4”,5”
A3
loose 30-40 Heads
Hooks
Bolt Kit - an oldie but goodie,
expect to have to upgrade
9
the anchors on this route!

206 | El Capitan
 28

A3
27

A3+
26

A3

25

A1
24

A4
23

A3+

22 Mescalito
5.9 C2 20 160’
21

5.9 The Bismark (C1 or 12a)

80’ 19
5.7
18 120’

C3 or A2+
17 135’
C3 or A2+
140’ 16
C3 or A2+

15 C1
14
A3 13
A4
12

Mescalito A2
11

A2
10
A4+
9
A3+
8 100’

A2
A4+ 70’ 6

5 60’

4 A3+
A3
3 35’
120’ 2 A2
A3
120’ 1 The Alcove
A4+

Photo: xRez.com 207

 South Seas VI 5.8 A3+
FA: September 1979 - Charlie Row, Bill Price, Guy Thompson

14 160’

Rack: “Bering
Straights” C1
10 Beaks: 2 ea #1 sweet!
3 ea #2 110’ 22
C2 slab
5 ea #3 difficult
hauling
9 LAs: 1 ea #1 100’ 13 C3 or
A2 easy 5th
3 ea #2, #3 .3-1” C3 or A1
1 ea #4, #5 A3 .3-2.5”
4 Angles: 2 ea 1/2”, 5/8” 100’
12
4 Sawed Angles: 1 ea 1/2”-1” C2 awk
A3
Nuts: 1-2 ea Atlantis heads 160’ 21

Cams: 3 ea .3”-2” 140’ 6

2 ea 3”-5” .3-5”
11 70’
Offset Cams: 2 ea
Tempest A3+ 5.10
12 Heads: 4 ea #2-#4 A3 thin A3 heads or C1
Hooks: 2 ea rope
110’
drag 20
Camhooks Atlantis,
Tempest 100’ 10 C1
12 - 20 Rivet Hangers C1
C2 .3-2”
Bolt Kit .3-3” Highbrow
A3
South Seas 19 Bivouac
150’ 5 finishes on 10b or C1 145’
P.O. Wall
5.8 mantel
9 190’ and C3 hooks
.3-1” nice P.O. Wall
ledge (pitch 13) broken rivets
A2+ .3-1.5”
cam hooks, arrows
A3 fixed
heads
A2 5.8 loose flakes 145’ 18
.3-1” 5.5
Atlantis, 4 110’
Tempest
.3-1.25” C3 hooks
A3 A3 exp.
.3-3”

A2 .3-2”
130’ 8
Aleutian Chain
A2 150’ 3 Atlantis,
arrow 330’ Tempest
to .3-1.25” A3 exp
or C2 camhooks ground
17 140’
C1 A2 “Rubber
mp .3-2” A3 Band Man”
ra Atlantis, C4 or A2
Tempest
C2 .3-1.5”
150’ 7

Great White
70’ 2 C1 Shark 16 145’
.3-1”
Space
(pitch 11) Atlantis
A2+ Black 5.9 ow
Atlantis Atlantis C2 Tower

160’ 1
2-4.5”
A2 5.8R
or
C3
Atlantis 15 60’
Atlantis,
.5-1.5” Tempest 6
South C2
Seas Island
in the .3-3”
Block
Party Sky
A2
Every Man For
C2+hook Tempest Himself 14
Space

Gollum
3rd
Slab

208 | El Capitan
 22 110’
A1 or C3
South Seas is an epically steep, classic route. Right off 21 160’
the ground the climbing is wild, without ever being
5.10 or C1
too difficult. This is arguably the most spectacular A3
route on El Cap. South Seas is a natural step up from 110’
20

A3
Mescalito or Squeeze Play; it is a slightly bigger step up 145’ 19 Highbrow Bivi
from Zodiac because it is longer and more sustained.
A3
Plan: The first pitch is steep and slow, so most parties 145’ 18

fix through pitch 3 on day one, and then spend five to A3 Aleutian Chain
seven nights on the wall. Bring the belay seat - or 17 140’
better yet, this might be a good route to flag your
ledge as it is so steep. A2 or C4
16 145’
The Elements/Retreat: SS gets sun early morning 5.9 ow
until mid-afternoon. It is steep, but the last pitches
would not be a good place to be in a storm. Retreat 60’ 15 Island In
The Sky
from this route is difficult, and involves down-aiding A2
14 160’
and pendulums.
FA History: Charlie Row, Bill Price, and Guy Thompson Bering Straights
made the first ascent in 1979 after spending only six C2
13 100’
days on the wall - impressive! The climbing went
smoothly for them. A unique traverse was made on the A3
12 100’
Rubber Band Man Pendulum, where the two climbers A3+
at the belay used the haul line to pull Row, who was 70’ 11
hanging in space on the overhanging wall, toward A3
100’ 10
them before releasing and slingshotting him over to C2
the next crack. This allowed them to avoid drilling 190’ 9
rivets through that blank section.
A3 PO Wall
130’ 8

A3
The Great
150’ 7 White Shark
C2

6140’
A3

150’
5

A2+
4 110’

A3
C2 3 150’

70’ 2 A2+
160’ 1 The
A2 Alcove

Photo: xRez.com 209

 40’ of
3rd class
Tempest VI 5.8 A4+ 20
FA: June 1993 - Jeff Hornibrook, Cade Lloyd, Brad Jarrett 5.7 R
var.
easy
walking
6 A1
or
12b

South thin heads C1

Seas no
19 190’
A3+ exp

heads,
beaks A1
“The Pecking 14 Adrift or
Order” 12a
Free Dawn Wall

5 Quinlan heads loose

Corner
A3

loose Rack:
13
40 Beaks: 5 ea #1, 18
15 ea #2, 20 ea #3
Atlantis “Twisted 2 LAs: 1 ea #2, #3
A3+ Sister”
Cams: 3 ea .3”-2”, 2 ea #3,
heads, 1 ea 4”, 5” A1
beaks
4 A3 Offset cams: 2 ea
12
Nuts: 2 ea
Adrift 20 - 30 Heads
Lazy Day 6 Circleheads: 2ea #2 - #4
Ledge
A3
exp
Hooks: all inc. large
A3
30 Wire Rivet Hangers 17
good ledge

South
Seas
3
A2 A2+
South RURPs,
Seas heads
no! “Rain of Terror”
C1 170’ 11
Atlantis
hooks Golden 2” exp
Tower 16

huge detached
A3+ flake
heads “The Killer
Whale” P.O.
“Badass A1 Wall
A4 Gerberding”
2
Easter Island
70m to
the ground
Space
Atlantis A3
A3+ 10
South heads
Seas A3+
“Pillar of thin 15
the
pins Community”

Molar
Traverse heads
South 1 “Tom”
Seas 9

Block A3+
Party

A3 Mescalito
Space South
A1 Seas

Gollum 14

3rd
8
slab A3
Girdle
Traverse “Rubber
Band Man”
7

Great C1
Space Girdle
(Pitch 11) White Shark Traverse
6

Atlantis

210 | El Capitan Photo: xRez.com

 20

C1
19 190’
A1
Tempest is, like Reticent, considered one of the best 18
hard aid routes on El Cap. It is characterized by epically
A3
steep and challenging climbing. Tempest is a natural
step up from Native Son or Sunkist; it is easier than 17

Disorderly Conduct or Jolly Roger. A2+ “Rain of Terror”

16
The Elements/Retreat: The last couple pitches follow a A3 Killer Whale
long crack which runs with water in a storm. Otherwise
this is a steep, dry route.
FA History: Jeff Hornibrook, Brad Jarrett and Cayd 15

LLoyd made the first ascent in 1993. They were three A3+
hard-charging Valley locals (Lloyd and Jarrett were on 14

Search and Rescue), and each was pushing himself to A3

Quinlan Corner
the limit to climb as naturally as possible on each lead. 13

They didn’t chisel heads or drill bathooks. A3

The most exciting moment might have been on the 12

“Rain of Terror” pitch, when Jarrett, who was vegan and A2

had only brought vegetables and rice for their ten-day 170’ 11 Golden Tower
ascent, suddenly had a bout of diarrhea while on lead.
A4
Space
10
Pillar of
A3+ the Community
9

A1
8
A3 7
Great White Shark
C1
6

A3+ “The Pecking Order”

5

A3+
4

A3
3

A3+
2 Easter Island
A3+
The 1
Alcove A3

Photo: xRez.com 211

 Pacific Ocean Wall 5.9 C4F or A3+
FA: May 1975 - Jim Bridwell, Bill Westbay, Jay Fiske, Fred East

170’
10 Continental
Shelf

Sea of
26 110’
18 165’ Dreams slab
A3 difficult
hauling rope drag
.3-5”
Pacific easy 5th
Crest
Bering Awkward
Straights C1
p
Sea of
sweet! fixed Dreams N.A.
.3-2.5” 5.10
heads Wall or
p
C2 C1+
“Nothing
120’ 17 110’ 9 Atolls”
A2 or 195’ 25
C4 C3F Old bolts
heads
.3-1”
.3-5”
8 60’
C2
E.M.F.H.
C2 hooks 5.10 loose
16 100’ or C1+
A3 24 110’
Atlantis heads
Link 15 and 16 w. 60m rope C3 5.9 or C1
(backclean)
90’ 7 .3-2”
A3
15 70’ 120’ Highbrow
Tempest 23
A3+ C3+ Bivouac
thin A3 heads or A3 10b or C1
link 6 & 7 w.
60m rope pins 5.8 mantel
Atlantis, and C3 hooks
Tempest 120’ 14
Hook flakes on right, 105’ 6 broken rivets
C2 .3-1.5”
protect with cams

.2-5” .4-3” C3 fixed

heads
5.8 C3 or 145’ 22
or C1 Hooks E.M.F.H. A2 5.5
Central
13
100’ Latitudes E.M.F.H.
nice 100’ 5
ledge 12 50’ C3 hooks
A3+ 170’ haul from 10 A3 heads
fixed junk
.4-2”
South C3 or A2
Seas C3 Link 4 & 5 w. 60m rope .3-1.5”

11 130’
E.M.F.H. 60’ 4
Aleutian Chain
C3 C1+ exp
.3-4” 2 60m ropes
to ground 21 165’
C2
E.M.F.H. C1
Old bolts
Rack: 10 160’ 3
C4 or A2

4-6 Beaks .3-1.5”

4 LAs: 1 ea #1 - #4 4.5” Adrift

8 Sawed Angles: 2 ea 1/2”-1” 20 145’
Nuts: 1 ea regular, 2 ea micro C3 Atlantis
Cams: 3 ea .3”-3” or Black 5.9 deep hands
A2
1 ea 4“, 5”, 7” Tower
Offset Cams: 2 ea
2”-5”
20 Heads: inc. circleheads 140’ to 110’ 2
60m to
ground
Hooks: 2 ea ground 5.7
Camhooks Atlantis 19 60’
10-15 Rivet Hangers bad hauling
C3
Bolt Kit or C2
heads A2 Island
.3-3”
in the
South Seas, 100’ Sky
Atlantis 1 C3 or A2
Tempest Every Man Sea of
Dreams 18
for Himself

.4-3”
Block C1
Party or
11c

Alcove
Pacfic Ocean Wall was established with an irreverent bent - copperheads
175’
and hook placements were chiseled and very poor rivets were used to
Gollum
make the climbing more serious. Unfortunately for the PO, that means it
hasn’t aged well. Bring a bolt kit on this route, and expect to have to use
it. South Seas, an alternate start to this route, is much steeper and
more fun, though you should still bring the bolt kit for the upper PO!
212 | El Capitan
 26 110’
5.10 or C1+
25 195’

5.10 or C1+
Harding 110’
24
Roof A3 Highbrow
120’ 23
Bivouac
C3
22 145’

Aleutian C3
Chain
165’
21

C4 or A2
20 145’ Cyclops Eye

5.9
Island In
Bismark 60’ 19 The Sky
Ledge
C3 or A2
18 165’

Bering
Straights (C1)
C2
120’ 17
A2 or C4
100’ 16
A3+ North
Climber on 70’ 15
Boot Flake A3 America
120’ 14 Central
C2 Latitudes
Texas 100’ 13 12 50’
A3+ C3
Flake
11 130’

C3 Continental
170’ 10 Shelf
Climber on A3
Mescalito 110’ 9 C3F
Dolt
8 60’
Tower
7 90’
C3+ or A3
Lay 105’ 6
Lady C3 or A2
Ledge 5 100’
A3
60’ 4
C2
160’ 3

C3 or A2
110’ 2

C3 or A2
The Alcove
1 100’
11c or C1

Photo: xRez.com 213

 1,2
1) Every Man for Himself 6) Nightmare on California Street 15) Iron Hawk
2) Pacific Ocean Wall 7) Wyoming Sheep Ranch 16) Highway to Hell
6 3) Sea of Dreams 8) Continental Drift 17) Hamas Fights For Freedom
4) Ring of Fire 9) Heavy Metal and Tinker Toys 18) Native Son
5) North America Wall 10) El Niño 19) Scorched Earth
3,4,5 11) New Jersey Turnpike 20) Sticky Rice
7,10,12
12) Heartland 21) Aurora
8
13 13) Gulfstream 22) Tangerine Trip
14) Atlantic Ocean Wall 23) Virginia
9,11
9 11 24) Lost in America
14-17
25) Ned’s Excellent Adventure
5
26) KAOS
27) Zenyatta Mondatta
10
6 18-23
25
1 3
24,26,27

13

5
10

24
25

4,6
2
12
5,10 19 21
3
27
1 22
8
17

7 9
11
15

4 5
18
3 14
1 2

6
5

16
21
9
20

16
14 15
19
23
25
17
22 24
21

9
18 20
16
8,10

11,12
24

17
8 25

10

23 27
18 20 14,15, 19 24,25 26
16,17 22,23
13

214 1 2 3
4 5 6 7 8
9 10-12
NORTH AMERICA WALL
 N.A.,
N.O.C.S.

Sea of Dreams VI 5.9 A4+

belay takes 1.25-2” FA: June 1978 - Jim Bridwell, Dale Bard, Dave Diegelman Big Sur
13 160’
great bivy
70’ for 2
27 5.9 ow N.A.
or C1 Wall
7”
5.5 Nightmare
on CA St.
26 130’
150’ 22 A4+
“Don’t Skate
A3 Mate”
5.5
C1
“Expanding Anchor”
A3 12 80’
belay takes .5-4”
.3-3”
C4 or A2 C1
A3
camhooks
21 120’
10a R El Niño finish
25 150’ bad belay bolts Cyclops
Eye “Peruvian Flakes” 100’ 11
.3-1.75”
P.O. bathook
A3 hooks Wall
5.10 or C2
Sheep
.4-3” Ranch, belay takes .3-.75” A3+
100’ 10
Heartland .3-1” Girdle
5.9 Traverse 80’
20 9
5.8 A4 heads
or P.O.
C1 Wall
60’ 24 Continental 5.5 “Hook or Book”
.3-2”
A4 Shelf
8” 5.9
or C1
N.A. The Sheep
Ranch, 8 90’
Wall Igloo N.A.
“Space Station” Heartland Wall
5.7 5.10 Girdle
140’ 19 A2 or A2+ Traverse
El
Niño
“Price is Light” Original 80’ 7
160’ 23 var. Route 160’ haul N.A.
5.7 from 5 Wall
A2+ A2+
.3-1”
hook var.
A3 110’ 18 100’ 6
Bull Dike
150’ haul
from 16 Groovy
A3+ .3-3” Arch
Rack: 17 80’ A3
3 RURPs 22 A3+ “Laura Scudders Traverse”
110’
15 Beaks “RURP Belay”
5
“Ace in Space” 5.7
2-3 KBs 90’ 16
4
120’
10 LAs
A3
2 Angles: 1 ea 1/2”, 5/8” A3 A3
4 Sawed Angles: 1 ea 1/2”-1” “The Blue Room”
A2+
Nuts: 1 ea regular, 2 ea micro 110’ 3
Cams: 2 ea .3”-.4” belay takes 5.6
Bridwell famously reported that the Sea of
80’ 15 1-4”
3 ea .5”-3” Dreams required only 39 original holes. The
1 ea 4”,5” other FAists later admitted to extensive drilling
A3
Offset Cams: 2 ea A2+ Sheep and chipping of hooks on the climb. Richard Jensen
Ranch
30 Heads 160’
“To The and Mark Smith, the FA team of Wings of Steel,
Tooth” Sea
Hooks: 2-3 ea .3-1”
Horse did the 5th ascent of the Sea with Bridwell
Camhooks 120’ 2 watching through a spotting scope from the
120’ 14
10-15 Rivet Hangers meadow. The ascent went smoothly, though
Bolt Kit Jensen and Smith did add bolts to many of
A3
A4 1 195’
the Sea's natural belays. Today nearly all the
belays are bolted.
Sea .3-2”
Horse 5.8
or C1
13 A4
hooks A2+
var. heads

.3-2”

Every Man 100’

for Himself
South Seas,
Atlantis Block A2
Party Tempest P.O. heads
Wall

The
Alcove
200’

Gollum

216 | El Capitan
 Sea of Dreams, characterized by endless hooking and
27 interesting thin features and cracks, is one of the better A4
130’ 26 routes on El Cap. This was one of the first aid routes that
C4 or A2
25150’ linked small features with rivets. Some loose rock in the
5.10 or C2 middle of the route, and some poor rivets, detract a little
24 60’
The Igloo from the quality of the climbing; but the location is
5.7 23160’
NA Wall top-notch110’and the climbing is generally steep enough to
A3 keep any falls safe. After dozens of ascents, the Sea is no
longer in the realm of Kaos or Jolly Roger, but it’s still
22150’ full value. It’s a logical step up from South Seas or Never
A3 Never Land.
Peruvian
21 120’
Flakes Plan: Most folks fix to pitch three and spend five to seven
A3
20
nights on the wall. Most pitches take a variety of gear –
A4 small cams, hooks, heads, etc. Start with a light 2-ea rack
19 140’
and you will get through most pitches, which are short
A2+ enough that you will be able to tag gear anytime.
110’ 18
A3+
Bull Dike 17 80’ The Elements/Retreat: The Sea goes in the shade
A3+ mid-afternoon. The lower half to two-thirds is decent in a
90’ 16 storm, but the top gets significant runoff. To retreat, rappel
A3 the route until you reach the Continental Shelf. From there
80’ 15
rappel to the bottom of the Shelf to a North America Wall
A2+
120’ 14
anchor, and continue straight down on NA Wall anchors.

Big Sur A4 FA History: Jim Bridwell, Dave Diegelman, and Dale Bard
13 160’ made the first ascent in October 1978, rating nine pitches
“Don’t Skate A5 and many more A4.
Mate” A4+
This was the ultimate thin route back in the day. Bridwell
80’ 12
had famously scrutinized the wall, piecing together the
A3
features in his mind. “If you go out to look at the wall right
“Hook Or Book” 11 100’
A3+ after a rain, you can see the features, and whether or not
10 100’ there are cracks, really good.” The Hook or Book pitch,
A4
80’ 9 which features a hundred feet of sideways hooking, is a
Continental 5.9 or C1
8 90’
famous pitch that Bridwell discovered through his scope,
Shelf A2+ and remains one of the most notorious aid pitches in
Yosemite. “I just saw the mottled rock in the middle of a
80’ 7
blank wall and guessed that there would be some stuff
A2+ there.” The team got creative at the belays, and drilled hooks
100’
6 and chiseled some head placements to avoid drilling bolts.
A3 While the route is thin, it’s surprisingly natural so it isn’t too
A3 5 110’ bad. The “Expanding Anchor” and the “RURP Belay” - which
120’ 4 consisted of five RURPS and one bolt - were a couple
A3 examples. Incredibly, they only placed 39 bolts! Subsequent
110’ 3
ascents have placed good bolts at most belays.
A3
The route name was inspired by an Electric Light Orchestra
2 120’ song. “There were other routes on El Cap with pitches that
A3 were just as thought-provoking as on the Sea of Dreams.
But no other route was so sustained,” explained Bard.
1 195’
A2+

Photo: xRez.com 217

 North America Wall VI 5.8 C4F or A3
FA: October 1964 - Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, Chuck Pratt, Yvon Chouinard
140’ 21

17 stance El
100’ massive roof Niño
C1
7 100’ (short)
11a or C3 C2
70’
oks
.5-3” ho 16
13b Cyclops .3-2”
C3 or A1 or C2 massive roof
camhooks Eye
.3-2”
p p p loose Every Man For Himself 85’

C1 .3-5” pp
p Black Cave “Psycho Killer”
15 160’
p three pitch (A3)
variation - see
Wyoming Sheep
Girdle 140’ 6 Ranch topo C2
Traverse
stance .3-3” belay takes
Easy Rotten 20 80’ 1.5-3”
Street 5.6 12c Island
C2
5.7
more crack -
OK bivy switching and 90’
for 1-2 5.7 weirdness
than shown El .5-3”
Niño 12c
The
.3-4” C1 19 and 20 link
Black w. 60 m rope
12a Every Man El
Dihedral for Himself good bivy Niño
var.
12c for 3 11a 19 120’
or C2 18 120’
C1 A3 loose .75-2”
18 5.8 R
5 110’ 5.7 or
12c 14 80’ C3 hooks
170’ haul from 12 C3 or A2
.3-4” rope eating
flakes
12a C2 or 12a C2
or 80’ belay takes 1.25-2”
C1 belay takes
p 13 160’ .5-2” 26
p .3-3”
.5-5” 5.5
La Niña
12a free variation
5.8 or C1 12 140’
25 130’ belay takes .4” and .5”
(5.13) 17
squeeze
Every Man fun Every Man
125’ 4 for Himself 5.8 for Himself
5.7
Mazatlan or C1
narrow - use 5.5
C2+ portaledge
hooks Borderline .5-3” C1
C2 Sea of p
.3-2” Traverse Dreams
100’ 11 p
Big Sur pass haul line and lead line
good bivy around chock stone C4
C2 for 2-3 .5-3” p camhooks
El Niño finish
Rack:
5.7 p or A1
Sea of chim. 10a R bad bolts
Dreams 100’ 24 150’
4 Beaks: 2 ea #2,3 10 p belay takes .4” and 1.5”
3 110’
55m
4 LAs: 1 ea #1,2
5.10 or C1+ loose
2 ea #3
C3 .4-3”
fixed heads 4 Sawed Angles: 1 ea 1/2”- 1” .3-3”
5.9
Nuts:1 ea regular and micros 10c
or C2 5.8
.3-2” Cams: 3 ea .3”-1.5” and
C1+
2 ea 2”,3” move
stay left 5.7 belay 23
1 ea 4”, 5” 120’ 23 original
9 130’ NA finish
2 100’ Offset Cams: 2 ea good bivy for 3 The 5.8 A2
6 Heads: 2 ea #2-4 Igloo Sea of
205’ 11c Dreams
to ground Hooks: 1 ea (inc. pointed) or
C1 easy
.3-1.5” Camhooks 5.7
stay
2 Rivet Hangers right
C3F or A2 5-10 Lower out slings 100’ 22 12d
50’ lower-out line for the haulbags 5.7 R and
C3 hooks
Calavaras 5.7 or C1
140’ 8
1 130’ Ledge 21
60m to 6
5.11+ OK bivy
or C2 for 1
5.7 R El Niño, C3 or
NO A2 beaks
New Jersey if fixed piece is
Turnpike missing, leave C2+ hook var. 10aGirdle Traverse
Wyoming gear and then p or
Sheep El Niño
Ranch rap from the C3
anchor to clean 5.10 weird

C2 Nightmare C1 The North America Wall famously runs through the dark
on .3-2”
California Footstool rock called diorite. This diorite intruded as a ~100’ thick dike
Street
7 that is oriented nearly vertically. Since the Southeast Face
of El Capitan is an approximately vertical surface, the diorite
Continental intrusion looks much larger on the wall than it actually is. Next
Drift
cool time you descend the East Ledges, notice the ~100’ thick
chimney / Flake
band of diorite you walk over as you pass the NA wall.

218 | El Capitan
 80’ 26 5.5 NA Wall was the first route on the southeast face of El Cap, and
C4 or A1 25130’ like other early climbs it has a wandering, natural and
24 150’ adventurous charm. The climbing is never too difficult, and there
The Igloo 5.8 and C1+ are some cool cracks and amazing bivy ledges interspersed with
23120’
5.7 some loose rock and awkward traverses. The cruxes are the
22 100’
blown-out pin scars on pitches 2-4, and a few mandatory 5.7
C3 21 moves here and there. The traversing nature of the climb and its
140’
length mean you will want to have a couple longer, easier walls
C2 under your belt before you get on this one. Climb NA Wall after
Cyclops
Eye 80’
20 you've climbed Zodiac, Nose, Salathé, or something on the East
C1 Face of Washington Column.
19 120’
120’
C3 18 A3 Plan: Most folks fix to pitch three or pitch 4, and then spend
100’ 17 three to five nights on the wall. The NA Wall moves around a lot,
11a or C3
70’ 16 C2 so have your lower-out skills dialed. It’s good for all team
15 160’
members to have a comfy pair of free shoes to wear on the
C2 French free-able pitches.
Black Cave
The Elements/Retreat: The NA goes in the shade mid-afternoon.
14 80’
This route follows major watercourses, so is a very poor choice of
C2 routes if a storm is forecast. Climb prepared! To retreat, rappel the
13 160’ route, down aiding and penji’s required.
C1 FA History: The all-star team of Royal Robbins, Tom Frost,
12 140’
Chuck Pratt, and Yvon Chouinard completed the first ascent in
C2
October 1964. Robbins had climbed the first half to Big Sur
11 100’ Ledge the year before, but turned back because the climbing
Big Sur was difficult and slow.
5.7
10 100’ The gear was so crude in 1964, just pitons and a couple hooks.
10c or C2 Robbins described the route: “The climbing was unusually
difficult. Promising cracks proved barely usable.”
9 130’
11c orC1 But the team was up to the task, and soon they were hanging
Calaveras their hammocks inside the imposing Black Cave. “Suspended over
8 140’ space, we hung one above another, like laundry between
Ledge
10a or C3 tenement flats. Oppressive is the word for the Black Cave. We felt
7 100’ like we had climbed into a cul-de-sac.”
Continental C3
Shelf The overhanging, loose crack above fell to Pratt. As Robbins
6 140’
cleaned the pitch dark clouds rolled into the Valley, making the
5.7 situation even more grim and foreboding. Well after dark and in
C1 light rain, the team was finally able to reach the sheltered safety
110’ 5
C1 of the massive Cyclops Eye.
5.8
Mazatlan 4 125’ On October 31st, the four stood on the summit in a foot of snow,
C2+ enjoying drinks with friends. They had used a mere 38 bolts -
every one that they had brought. At the time, the North America
3 110’ Wall was regarded as the hardest El Cap route.

C3
2 100’
A2
1 130’
C2
Photo: xRez.com 219
 Nightmare on California Street VI 5.10 A5
FA: July 1998 - Warren Hollinger, Grant Gardner
6

Bull
Dike
12

N.A. A4
Wall “The Sky is
Falling”
C1 loose! 19
.3-2”

5 100’
11 Rack:
4 RURPs 5.10
C3 or A1 “Sail Away”
camhooks 40 Beaks
“Missing Link” 5 KBs
C1 .3-5” A4+ 15 LAs
4 Angles: 3 ea 3/4” A1
1 ea 1”
18 wide
4 3 Leepers: 2” “
Easy
stance Nuts: 1 ea “Fun”
loose 10
Street 5.6 Cams: 4 ea .3”-1”
loose 3 ea 1.25”-3”
OK bivy 1 ea 4”,5”
for 2-3 5.7 A4 +
Offset Cams: 1 ea
Big Bro: 1 largest
40 Heads 17

9
Hooks: all
RP and Wired Hangers
A4 65m Ropes
3 “Pacific Coast “5th Class”
Highway”
A3- **63 holes
loose 16

N.A. N.A.
Wall Wall 5.7
Sea of
Dreams A2-
C2
Big Sur “Black Hole Sun”
2 8
WY
Sheep Cyclops
“Moss Landing” 15
Mazatlan Ranch great bivy N.A. Eye
for 2 Wall
A4+
Sea of
A4+ Dreams

“Border Crossing”
5th
loose class
R bad bolt
exp.
“The Dream Ring
is Dead” of Sea of
Dreams Cyclops
Fire Direct El
Every Man 14
Niño
7 “Expanding Anchor” for Himself
belay takes .5-4”
5.4
Heartland N.A.
Wall
N.A. 4th
Wall
1
A4
Sea of
Dreams KBs
“Aqua Phobia”

13
Ring
“Drive-by of Fire
Shooting” loose
6 “Thou Shalt
Not Drill”
A4
Cont.
Drift
N.O.C.S. Ring
of Fire
Wyoming 12
A5 Sheep
N.A. Ranch
Wall
Cont. Heavy
Drift Metal & Hollinger and Gardner spent years repeating many
Ring Tinker The
of Toys
Footstool
of the hardest routes on El Cap, before establishing
Fire this testpiece. The were so Go-For-It! In 2008, ‘Flyin’
Brian McCray R.I.P. came within a few pitches of repeating
the route solo, but ran out of food and water and ended
up having friends drop him a rope at the Cyclops Eye.
220 | El Capitan
 19

5.10
“Sail Away”
A1
18

“Fun”
17

“5th Class”
16

A2- “Black Hole Sun”

15

The Cyclops
Eye
14

A4

13

“Thou Shalt Not Drill”

12
A4
11

A4+ “Missing Link”

10

A4+
9

A4 “Pacific Coast Highway”

8 Big Sur

A4+ “Border Crossing”

6
“Aqua Phobia”

100’ 5
NA Wall
C3
Easy Street 4

NA Wall A3-

A4+
“The Dream Is Dead”

1
“Drive-by Shooting”
A5

Photo: xRez.com 221

 Wyoming Sheep Ranch VI 5.8 A4
FA: August 1984 - John Barbella, Rob Slater
Cyclops Eye variation
FA: 1989 - John Middendorf, Xaver Bongard

to the Sea of 80’

N.A. Wall Dreams 22
belay takes 1.25-2”
15 Wyoming Sheep Ranch originally finished 5.4
on the N.A . Wall. If not finishing via the
Psycho Killer variation, most parties 21 130’
130’ 8 enjoy finishing on the Sea of Dreams, which
is the most straightforward finish.
The Psycho Killer adds a day to the route.
5.8 A4

14 130’ 5.5
.4-2” New Jersey C1
Sea of
Rack: N.A.
Wall
Turnpike Dreams A2
15 Beaks
Calaveras 7 90’
2 KBs Ledge
C4
camhooks or A2
10 LAs
5.7 var. 150’ 10a R
2 Angles: 1 ea 1/2”, 5/8” 5.9 R “Home on 20

A3 the Range”
Sawed Angles: 1-2 ea 1/2”-1”
Nuts: 1 ea few
.3-.4” 5.10 or C2
Cams: 2-3 ea .3”-3” 6 El Niño finish
130’ .4-3” bad belay bolts
1 ea 4”,5”,7” New Jersey
Turnpike
150’ 13
5.9
Offset Cams: 2 ea 5.8
30 Heads C1 or
C1
Hooks: 2 ea “Liz is 60’ 19
.4-3” Tight”
Camhooks 5.7 120’
10-15 Rivet Hangers A3+ The
A4 (short)
Bolt Kit Igloo
120’ 5
easy
5.9 ow 1’x4’ ledge 5.7
12 140’ 5.7
“Woolly Box Bivy” 18 160’
6.5” 100’
5.7

A2
A3+
130’ 4 “Ewe-phoria” thin NA Wall

A2 140’
C2
hooks A3
massive roofs
Sea of 6.5”
Dreams
few A3 “Psycho Killer”
.3-.75” var.
11 150’
(recommended)
A2+ 150’ 17
A4
A3 hooks Cattle
Prod Cyclops
Pillar Eye
340’ 110’ 3
to ground “High Boots
on a Full
Moon Night” 120’ A3

A3

.4-1.5” A4

10 140’
105’ 2 “Sheepalope Bivy” 16 120’

.4-1.5” 3rd
A3
bathooks A3+ thin
“Gumbie’s
Gallows” “Peruvian Flakes”
few
.4-.75” El N.J. N.A. A3
Niño Turnpike 9 140’ Wall
A2
N. A. A3
Wall 1 125’
Continental A4
A3 heads Drift “Welcome to hooks 15
Wyoming”
Nightmare few
on .3-2” Heavy The .3-1” C1
California Metal & Footstool
Street Tinker
Toys
A4
8

222 | El Capitan
 5.4 22 80’
130’ 21
A2 or C4
150’
20

5.10 or C2
The Igloo
19 60’
5.7
18 160’

“Psycho Killer” (A2+) A3

Cyclops 150’
17

Eye A3
120’ 16
Peruvian Wyoming Sheep Ranch takes a direct line
Flakes (A3) through the heart of the North America water
15
A4 streak. Bold, thin climbing linked by some-
times sketchy rivets make this a committing
130’ 14 “Home on climb. Wyoming Sheep Ranch is a cool
the Range” (A3) adventure! It is slightly harder, looser, and less
13
150’ classic than Sea of Dreams or Native Son.
“Liz is Tight” (A3+)
Plan: Most parties fix three pitches and then
140’
12
spend five or six nights on the wall.
“Ewe-phoria” (A3)
11 150’ The Elements/Retreat: This route climbs a
“High Boots On fair bit through the black rock, which shows
A Full Moon Night” (A4) where the water runs, so this is not a good
10 140’ route to do if a storm is forecast. To retreat,
“Gumbies Gallows” (A3+) rappel the route.
9 140’
FA History: Rob Slater and John Barbella
“Welcome To Wyoming” (A4)
made the first ascent in August 1984, but the
8 130’ route already had a colorful history.
5.8
The line was first attempted by longtime
valley guide Peter Mayfield, Greg Child, and
Auggie Klein. They bailed after nine pitches,
Calaveras Ledge 7 90’
including one which featured tons of loose
5.9 R 5.7 hooking, dubbed the “Psycho Killer.”
130’ 6
Slater and Barbella thought that dramatic
A1
route names were overplayed, so they went
A4 with the ‘ranch’ theme, renaming the ‘Psycho
5 120’ Killer’ pitch ‘Welcome to Wyoming.’ They
5.9 ow
contrasted the seriousness of climbing with
A2 lighthearted pitch names.
130’ 4
Pushing themselves to keep the climb as
A3 natural as possible, Slater pulled off a possible
Yosemite bigwall FA first: – when he found
110’ 3
himself in the dark mid-pitch, sixty feet up
A3
the“Liz is Tight” pitch, he lowered to the bivy
2 105’ off a pair or equalized hooks. They used an
ascender on the rope to keep the hooks
A3 tensioned all night, and in the morning Rob
125’ 1
jugged back up and finished the pitch. Yowza!
A3
Photo: xRez.com 223
 Continental Drift VI 5.10 A4 “Lutefisk”

FA: October 1997 - Steve Gerberding, Kevin Thaw, Conrad Anker 180’ 7

A2+
“Trailhead”

12 200’ 15 200’
Heartland loose

5.10
NJ
Turnpike
140’ 6

many
A3- hooks 5.10
5.8
5 200’
loose
“Work or Play?” El Niño,
hooks, 4th
N.A. Wall
heads

5.3
200’ 14 N.A.
11 180’ Wall Calaveras
Ledges

many
drilled hooks
5.9
3” hook 5.7
Rack: .75-3”
5 RURPs
no! 25 Beaks
A3 4 200’
5 KBs H.M.T.T.
12 LAs H.M.T.T.
A3 6 Angles: 2 ea 1/2”-3/4” long pitch 11d
.3-3” or A2
Nuts
Cams: 4 ea .3”-1.75”
belay needs bolts 160’ 10
13 190’
2 ea 2”-6”
Offset Cams: 2ea
50 Heads NJ
11a Turnpike
Hooks: 2 ea + extra Talons
drilled hooks
Rivet Hangers
“The Gorak”
hooks, exp 70m ropes 180’ 3
heads,
beaks
A3- “Extraordinary
“Portage” Alien” 5.9
A4
p
exp thin
seam few
loose small-medium
cams

A4 or
160’ 9 13b
“Galapagos”
A3 exp e
dik
12
loose 190’ Most climbers know that the diorite
2 two 60m ropes of North America is looser than the other
“Les Voyageurs” to Footstool
wandering
hooks rock types on El Capitan. Some
sharp edge “The Missing geologists believe that the weakness
A3
sporty hooks
Link” of this rock caused it to preferentially
13a
weather, leaving behind the harder
granites around it. This may have
El Niño A3 contributed in the steepness of the
southeast face of El Cap.
8 190’
13a
drilled Black Dike
hooks
few small
A3 cams
very
loose N. A. 1 200’
reachy
hooks Wall 5.9 N.J. Turnpike
“Appalachia” “Underground”
WY
Sheep A3-
Ranch
Nightmare
on
“Lutefisk” California Heavy 5.3
Street Metal &
11c Tinker
7 Toys
The
Footstool

224 | El Capitan
 200’ 15
5.10
200’ 14

A3

190’ 13
“Extraordinary Alien” A4

200’ 12

“Work or Play” A3-

11 180’

“Portage” A3-

160’ 10

“Les Voyageurs”
A3
8 190’
“Appalachia”
A3
7 180’
“Trailhead” A2+

140’ 6 NJ Turnpike

5.8
Calaveras 200’ 5
Ledge 5.3
5.9

200’ 4
11d
or A2
180’ 3

“Galapagos”

A4
190’ 2

A3

200’ 1

“Underground”
A3-
Photo: xRez.com 225
 200’ 10 Big Sur

pass haul line around

El Niño VI 5.13c (free with variation)
good bivy chock stone FA: September 1998 - Alexander Huber, Thomas Huber
for 2 5.7 La Niña FA: 2018 - Alex Honnold, Sonnie Trotter
chimney
Sea of .3-3”
Dreams 100’
22

.3-3”
Rack: “The Dolphin”
10c Cams: 2 ea .3”-.5”
or C2 Cyclops C2 N.A.
3 ea .6”-2” Eye 12b
5.7 chimney 21
2 ea 3” belay takes
1.5-3”
9 1 ea 4”
1 ea 7” (optional) 5.7
11c
or 45’ Lower-out Line
C1 12c .5-3”
stay
right NJ
Cont. Turnpike C1
Drift
20
leave haulbags here,
haul from 21 11a
loose
move belay
8 5.3
shuttle bags to 19
A3 fixed .75-2”
here, haul from 9 19 junk
N.A. 5.7 bivy for 2 5.7
Wall 8 or N.A .Wall
Calaveras
Ledges C2 hooks

12c
5.9 “Slalom” belay takes 1.25-2”
.75-3” 18 80’
27

7 200’ 11a or C3 5.5

26

.5-3” 17
Black
long pitch
.3-3”
11d .3-2” Cave
or A2 p p p 13b
p p or C2+ C1
5.5

55’ 6
25
few 1-2”
11a NJ C2 C4
Turnpike loose NA camhooks
wall 16 80’
Rotten 10a
180’ 5 Island
11a
80’ loose 5.10 or C2
5.9 The 15 few cams
12c .4-3” 24
Black N.A.
p Dihedral link 15 and 16 Wall 5.9
w/ 60m rope 5.8
(stance to stance) or
few small-medium cams .3-4” C1
5.12 lb

13b 14
original
Endurance N.A. finish
The 5.8 A2
“Galapagos” Corner Igloo 23
.3-4” 12a
12b easy
Ring of 5.7
Two 60m ropes
to Footstool
4
100’ 150’ Fire
belay takes
Continental 13 .5-2” “La NiÑa”
few Drift 12b 13a
var.
finger-sized “Lucy is a
cams fun 5.13 5.9 or Labrador”
“The Missing 13a leave bags at 11 5.9 var.
Link” haul from 14 N.A. C3 hooks
12
climb to bolt of penji, 5.7 or C1 13a “Eismeer”
3 clip it, downclimb and (better way)
11
make traverse
Royal Arch13c 13a 5.7
short & stout! A0 Sea of N.A. C2+ 12a
Cont. no cams p M&M Dreams Wall seasonally wet
Drift 11 “Man Flake
Powered 10 22
13a Rappel”
Black Dike
Big Sur
few small
cams
2 Sea of
Continental Dreams
5.9 N.J. Turnpike
Drift
1 105’
At one point, the Hubers held the speed record
5.6
for Zodiac (1:51:34) and for the Nose (2:45:45).

The
Footstool

226 | El Capitan
 80’29
5.5 26
25
5.5
The Igloo 24
10a
5.9
“Lucy in a 23

Labrador” (13a) “Eismeer” (13a)

22

12b The Dolphin

Cyclops 21
El Niño is a bold, thin face and crack odyssey up the
Eye 12c
iconic North America Wall, named for the cliff-sized
black streak that resembles the Americas. There are a
11a
19
20
couple chimneys but no offwidths, and much more
12c sparsely bolted face climbing than you find on other
11a 18
El Cap free routes. El Niño combines sections of
17
13b Continental Drift, New Jersey Turnpike, and the
Black Dihedral 80’ Black Cave
16 North America Wall.
11a Rotten Island
80’15 The Elements/Retreat: El Niño goes into the shade
12c
in the mid to late afternoon. This is not a good route
14
to be on in a storm. Below the enormous Cyclops Eye
12a
12b is the only dry place for a storm bivy. To retreat,
13
rappel the route. From the pitch 9 anchor, rappel
12b
5.9 12
“La Niña” straight down on NA Wall anchors.
13c 11 5.13
11
FA History: Alex and Thomas Huber established El
13a 10 Big Sur Niño in September of 1998. This was the first free
“Man-Powered 200’
Rappel” ascent of the Southeast Face - which now contains
Free Zodiac, Secret Passage, and The Prophet.
10c Technically, this was not an all-free route until Alex
9
Honnold and Sonny Trotter added La Niña variation
in 2018, which bypasses the mandatory rappel that
11c the Huber’s route requires.
Calaveras The Hubers spent three weeks preparing their route
8
Ledge 8
for the redpoint, finally completing the line in a
5.9 three-day push. Alex Huber described their experi-
ence: “We exchanged pitons and hammers for
7 200’ chaulk bags. Where previous climbers had nailed
pins into hairline cracks, we free climbed on micro
11d
edges and tiny footholds. El Niño was born.”
British ace Leo Houlding - then 18 years old! - and
6 55’
Patch Hammond did the second ascent a month
11a
after the Hubers and almost onsighted the route.
5 180’
They had just two falls on pitches 3 & 5.
“The Galapagos” In 2003, a crucial hold broke on the Eismeer (pitch
13b
4 26), making the 13a pitch much harder for shorter
13a folks. During the very next ascent, Steve Schneider -
3 funny because he is super tall - established the “Lucy
Black Dike 13a is a Labrador” variation (13a) to bypass the Eismeer.
2
5.9
1 105’
The
Footstool 5.6

Photo: xRez.com 227

 SOUTHEAST FACE 1) Abstract Expressionist*
2) The Shortest Straw
12) The Secret Passage
13) Eagle’s Way
3) Zodiac 14) On the Waterfront
2,3
5,7
4) Surgeon General 15) High Plains Dripper
5) Lunar Eclipse 16) Pressure Cooker
6) Born Under a Bad Sign 17) Get Whacked
4
7) Free Zodiac 18) Chinese Water Torture
8, 11,12 6,9
8) Plastic Surgery Disaster 19) Waterfall Route
10 13-15 9) Bad Seed 20) Lost in Translation
19 10) The Prophet 21) Dark Star
11) Bad to the Bone 22) East Buttress
16,17

8
11,12

5 18,21

20
9 22
5 10 16

11,12 13
10
9 17
11
20
10
17 18

R ock
20
21
fall

17
6 12

8 19

17

16 20

14
10,11 15

19
12

4
2 12,13
17
16
1 18
3,7 8
5 6

16 17

20 22
21
7-9 10-13 15 16-20
5,6 14
1 2 3 4

228 Photo: xRez.com

Sonnie Trotter on the crux pitch of his and
Alex Honnold’s free variation to El Niño, 5.13
 21 100’

Atlantic Ocean Wall VI 5.9 A4 5.9

FA: September 1985 - John Middendorf, John Barbella
C2
130’ 20

Rack: 2’X10’
ledge
A3
11 150’
9 Beaks: 3 ea
8 LAs: 2 ea #2-#5 24 80’
A3 4 Angles: 2 ea 1/2”, 5/8”
Nuts: 1 ea 130’ 19
5.7
Cams: 2-3 ea .3”-.5”
.3-3.5”
4 ea .75”-2”
5.9 2 ea 3-5” 70’ 23 5.9
or or C1
C2 Offset Cams: 2 ea
belay takes
.6-2” 130’ 10 10 Heads A2+ 5.5”
140’ 18
Hooks
Highway
to Hell Camhooks 150’ 22
.3-3”
15 Rivet Hangers A3
A3
9 150’ 140’ 17

A2
Gulf 80’ pins
10a R Stream
.3-1.5” “Florida John Middendorf, beyond being a prolific Yosemite and desert slab A2
Swamps”
rock first ascensionist, helped revolutionize bigwall climbing
140’ 16
A3 with the equipment he designed and marketed through his 21
heads company, A5. Notable products of A5 equipment included A2
A3+ Iron
the first birdbeak, portaledges with machined corners, Hawk
Girdle 140’ 8 bomber haulbags, and nut tools with bottle openers on them.
Traverse A2
John sold A5 to The North Face in 1996, but his innovation
130’ 15
continues, and he now makes the “round-cornered” 5.9
A3+ D4 portaledge, as well as the cantilevered Delta portaledge.
140’ 14
5.10 or
C2
4.5” “Bay of Pigs” A3-
160’ haul from
A2+ 5.5” 7 80’ El Cap Tree
1’-10’ ledge
.3-1” Iron
Hawk A3+
NJ Turnpike
20’
roof A2+ 6 110’ 13 110’
cool

A4 (short)

HFF A3+
Gulf exp
80’ 5
Stream
190’ rap El Cap 5.8 12 130’
4
Tree 120’
Boston
Heavy Metal “Hourglass”
5.8 HTH & Tinker Toys Tea Party
loose Scorched Sticky good bivy for 3 A3+
Earth Rice loose flakes
knobby
face Native
120’ Son
3 2 140’ Tangerine Trip, Gulf A3
4th Aurora Stream
class 5.7 11 150’

ram
p
190’ to 5.8 Girdle
ground or C1 Traverse
1 150’
A.O. Wall’s original direct start experienced
many significant rockfalls in the 2000s, C2 hooks or 5.8
and is no longer climbed. Today, parties
climb the El Cap Tree route to skip
this section.

Highway C2
To Hell,
Hamas Fights Native 5.5
For Freedom Son 5.9+ 5.0
(recommended)

Zodiac
big clearing

230 | El Capitan
Atlantic Ocean is a cool off-the-beaten-track
adventure. The climbing is a bit looser and
more expanding than nearby Zodiac, North
America Wall, and Iron Hawk, but is still cool
location climbing. Like Iron Hawk, the AO
climbs the last pitches of New Jersey
Turnpike, which contains two pitches of 24 80’
scarcely protected slab climbing. Climb AO 5.7
A2+ 23 70’

after you climb Never Never Land and Iron 150’ 22

Hawk. It is about the same difficulty as 10a R
Zenyatta Mondatta. 100’’
21
5.9
C2
Plan: Most folks fix to pitch five and spend 130’ 20 A3
four or five nights on the wall. Bring the belay 19 130’
seat as this route has few ledges.
140’ 18 5.9 or C1
The Elements/Retreat: The AO gets sun A3
from morning to mid-afternoon. It is fairly 140’ 17
steep and protected, though the last eight A2
pitches would be soaked and unclimbable in
a storm. Retreat by rapping the route, 140’ 16
down-aiding and penjis required.
A2 Iron Hawk
FA History: John Barbella and John “Deucey”
Middendorf made the first ascent in Septem- 130’ 15
ber of 1985. The line originally started to the 5.10 or C2+
west, down and left of El Cap Tree, but was 14 140’
terribly loose. Their fears about that section A3+
were confirmed when the first two pitches
fell off a few years later. Singer Smith and I 13110’ Barbella and Middendorf had
re-established these pitches in 1998, only to A3+ Boston Tea scoped an independent finish, but
see them fall off again in 1999. Look around 130’ 12 Party ultimately decided to join the New
at the base, and see if you can find the fallen A3+ Jersey Turnpike topout pitches,
block with the rivets in it! 11 150’ keeping their hole count to an
A3 impressive 58 holes for eight
The difficulties continued above the El Cap independent pitches. The pair did
Tree. Middendorf remembered, “The roof not enchance any placements, or
(pitch 7) was terrifying because of a 130’
10
drill bathooks.
ten-foot-long by three-foot-wide big block in A3
the roof that we named Paul Bunyan’s Coffin. 9150’
Being the first, one never knows if it is poised “Florida Swamps” (A3+)
to fall. But time has determined that the 8 140’
block is pretty stable - it’s still there!” A3+ “Bay of Pigs” (A3+)
Barbella and Middendorf made their climb 80’ Iron Hawk
7

without small cams, greatly increasing the A2+ 6 110’ 80’

El Cap
difficulty of the many thin, expanding Tree
A4
sections. On the crux Florida Swamps pitch,
80’ 5
Middendorf described his seven-hour lead: 5.8 4 120’
“For one sequence of six or so consecutive 5.8
placements, every time I placed a pin the one
I was standing on popped out. Below there 4th class 2 140’
120’ 3

was a low-angle slab that I would have hit if I

5.8
fell; it was quite tenuous and desperate.” 1 150’
Today with small cams, many of the pitches C2
are signifcantly easier.

Photo: xRez.com 231

 Native Son VI 5.9 A4
FA: August 1987 - Troy Johnson, Walt Shipley

Golden Blade variation

FA: August 1997 - Eric George 16 110’

5.6
Rack: 150’ 8
16 Beaks: 2ea #1, 6ea #2, 8ea #3
6 LAs: 2 ea #1-#3 Native Son finishes 110’ 15
Nuts: 1 ea .3-2” on the last two pitches
5.10 nice ledge
of Tangerine Trip
Cams: 3 ea .3”-2” or
LAs C1
2 ea 3”,4”
A3 160’ 14
1 ea 5” (optional for Golden Finger) .3-2.5”
reachy hooks,
Offset Cams: 2 ea mantels 5.7
5 -10 Heads Tangerine
Hooks: 2 ea including large 7 140’ A4 A3 Trip
reachy
Camhooks hooks
exp
15-20 Rivet Hangers 140’ The Golden
13 Nipple
A3 .3-3”
C2 exp

130’ 6
A3 beaks
hooks
140’ 12 Awesome bivy -
top of the headwall
Iron
Hawk A3 hooks
.3-1” one hook
KB Traverse “The Machine
A3 “Who’s Gonna Head Wall”
Win the War?”

5 120’
140’ 11

The Wing The Wing head

.3-1.5” may be El Cap’s
A3+ steepest pitch!
heads Iron
H.T.H Hawk “Iron Son Traverse”
160’ 4 A3
A2 160’ 10
12”
4”
Iron Hawk 5.9 squeeze
El Cap Belay 14
Tree 5.8 R 3 190’
or A4 rotten A2 awkward
loose “The Coral go light/free to Iron The Golden
Sea” this belay and then Hawk
pull up aid rack Finger of Fate
A3 hooks heads
60’ Scorched
El Cap Earth Sticky “Corn
5.8 Flake 160’ 9
Tree
ow Rice Corner”
120’ 4th
H.T.H 2
many 1”-1.5”
nice ledge
5.8R C2
H.T.H
A3 hooks Golden
Blade exp
var. The Equator
fixed heads
belay takes 8 A3 A2
1.5 - 3”140’ 1 .3-2”

A3
Aurora,
Scorched Earth

C2 wild
A5
A2
var.
Highway to Hell
5.9 mantel
out of tree!
(tie the branches together
to reinforce them )
Tangerine Trip
100’

trail enters the trees

after open talus

232 | El Capitan
Native Son is outrageously steep, and is one of the most classic A4
routes on El Cap. It’s like a smaller version of the Dawn Wall’s epic
South Seas, with a little more spice thrown to make you work for it.
Large features are interspersed with thin thought-provoking
climbing. While still serious, the Coral Sea is not as loose and scary as
it once was. Climb Native Son before you climb Reticent or KAOS. It is
a step up from Shortest Straw, but not as hard as Sea of Dreams.
Plan: Most folks fix three pitches and then spend four to six nights on
the wall. The first six pitches are challenging and steep, so plan some
extra time on these pitches. Except for the ledge atop pitch two, 110’ 16
there are no other ledges on this route. Bring the belay seat! 5.5
15
110’
The Elements/Retreat: Native Son gets sun until late afternoon.
5.10 or C1
Steep and protected, this is a good route in a storm! To retreat rap the Golden
route, down-aiding and penjis required. From the base of the Wing Nipple (A4)
14 160’
you can rap, with some swinging, over to the El Cap Tree. From there 140’ 13
two sixty-meter raps get you down. A3
FA History: Walt Shipley and Troy Johnson made the first ascent in 140’ 12
August 1987, an active period for the Southeast Face during which C2
three routes were established: Heartland, Native Son, and Scorched
Earth. Shipley and Johnson knew that their route would be incredi- Machine
140’ 11 Headwall
ble, having climbed the nearby routes Iron Hawk and Aurora to scope
the line. Johnson recalled, “We were excited - once we got going - we
A3
understood the only way down was up. The gravity and ground have
160’ 10
a downward pull on you, but the gods pull you up. The Coral Sea and
Golden Finger
the Wing stand out as the most challenging and exciting. Halfway up A2
of Fate
the Coral Sea I was run out on beaks and copperheads, and Walt calls
out casually, ‘Hey, don’t you think you should drill a rivet now?’” 160’ 9
The A3
The epitome of frugal dirtbags, the pair had a grand scheme for Equator 8 150’
obtaining the rivets they neeeded for their climb. “I had a graveyard
shift grooming the slopes at Squaw Valley,” recalled Johnson. “In the A3
workshop they had extra machine bolts lying around, and I would 140’ 7

pocket them for climbing. Many of the rivets put up on Native Son
are from the machine shop at Squaw.” A3
The climb went super smoothly. Johnson recalls, “not to sound 130’ 6
immodest, but at the time I didn’t think much of it! We were busy
A3
dreaming of our next route.”
120’ 5
Walt Shipley died in a kayaking accident in 1999. Beloved in the The
Yosemite climbing community where he worked on Search and 160’ 4
Wing (A3+)
Rescue, Shipley was remembered at his memorial by his good friend
A2
John Middendorf. “Everyone knew him as an intense man, always El Cap
passionate and full of life. I spoke of his loyality to his friends, and his Tree 190’ 3 Coral
incredible energy, of our climbs together, how I have rarely felt such a A4 Sea
bond with my climbing partners, and of the way - despite Walt’s wild
temperament - you could always count on him to help you out. He
constantly proved his commitment to his friends, no matter how 120’ 2
intense it got on the wild routes he loved.”
A3

140’ 1
A3
Photo: xRez.com 233
 Iron Hawk VI 5.9 A4
FA: September, 1978 - Dale Bard, Ron Kauk
160’
24

70’ 13

A2+ 21 100’
5.7
link 12 & 13 5.9 Reachy
w. 60m rope
12 115’ C2
A2+ 130’ 20
70’ 23
2’X10’ A3
ledge
C2
A2+

95’ 11
150’ 22
120’ 19

A2
5.9
or C1
160’ 10

5.5” 10a R
C1 145’ 18 slab
The Spoon

21
A3

A2+
"Let go of everything except what you need to stay on the rock."
Gulf A2
9 150’ Stream pins
- Ron Kauk
“Knifeblade Traverse” A4 130’ 17
A2
130’ 8 fixed Native
circleheads Son
A2+
New Jersey A2
Turnpike
160’ 16

A3

50’ 7 A2
C2 Native
Son
A.O. Wall,
Girdle 6 110’
Traverse 15

A4(short) A3
Iron Son
variation
El Cap
80’ 5
Tree
160’ haul 140’
C2
Rack:
5.8 from 12 14 9 Beaks: 3 ea #1-#3
190’ rap
4 2 KBs: Short
120’
5 LAs: 1ea #1 - #5
A2+
5.8 awk 5 Sawed Angles: 2 ea 5/8”, 3/4”
loose Scorched Sticky 1 ea 1”
Earth Rice .5-4.5”
Highway Nuts: 1 ea regular, 2 ea micro
to Hell Native
Son
120’ Cams: 2-3 ea .3”-4”
3 2 140’ Tangerine Trip,
4th Aurora 1 ea 5”, 7” (not needed
5.7
class 13 if doing the Iron Son variation)
ram Offset Cams: 2 ea
p
190’ to 5.8 Girdle 10 Heads
ground or C1 Traverse 10 Circleheads (mostly #2)
1 150’
Hooks: 2 ea
Camhooks
C2 hooks or 5.8
10 Rivet Hangers

C2
Native 5.5
Son 5.9+ 5.0
(recommended)

Zodiac
big clearing

234 | El Capitan
Iron Hawk is a classic though wandering line, and is a
great introduction to A4 climbing. It climbs many classic
features, and feels more moderate than the other A4
24 160’
A2+ 5.7
routes around it. Definitely not mellow, the runnout slab 23 70’

climbing at the top is stout! The KB Traverse, now with 150’ 22

10a
aging copperheads where secure knifeblades used to fit, is 100’’
21
110’
the horizontal equivalent of the Shield’s Groove pitch. Iron 5.9 5.5
Hawk is a logical step up from Zodiac, Mescalito, or Golden 110’
Squeeze Play. 130’20 A3 Nipple (A4) 5.10 or C1
19 120’
Plan: Most folks fix to the El Cap Tree, and then spend four 160’
5.9 or C1
or five nights on the wall. In winter and spring, the top slab 145’ 18 140’
pitches may be wet and unclimbable; in that case, you can A3 A3
do the Iron Son variation and finish on Native Son. If you 140’ Iron Son Finish
later climb the Atlantic Ocean Wall you will get to enjoy all 130’ 17 C2
but 1.5 mellow traversing A2 pitches on Iron Hawk. A2
Machine
160’ 16 Headwall
The Elements/Retreat: Iron Hawk gets sun from morning
til mid-afternoon. It is steep and protected during a storm, A2
save for the final third of the route. If bad weather is 15
A3 Native Son
forecast, plan to do the Iron Son finish. To retreat rap the 14140’
route, down-aiding and penjis required.
A2+
FA History: Dale Bard and Ron Kauk first climbed Iron
70’ 13
Hawk in October 1978. The strong team of Steve Sutton A2+
and Hugh Burton had previously climbed to the roof 110’
12

above El Cap Tree, but bailed. A2+

Bard described his motivation for the climb: “I was into 95’11 “The Artist’s Palete”
‘location climbing.’ I’d pick an intriguing place on the wall
and then find a way to climb to it.” Iron Hawk climbs the A2 The Spoon
beautifully-colored ‘Artist Palette.’ “It looks like the Jolly 160’ 10
Green Giant decided to do some brush strokes.”
One of the most spectacular pitches for the pair was the A2+
Knifeblade Traverse, a beautiful horizontal knifeblade and KB Traverse 9 150’
Lost Arrow crack. “I remember thinking, ‘This is so insane!’ I A4
felt lucky to have had the opportunity to lead that 130’ 8
unbelievable pitch,” remembers Kauk. A3
A few pitches from the top, the pair joined the New Jersey C2 50’7

6 110’
Turnpike route, which they had helped establish the year El Cap
before. On NJT, Kauk and Bard were the ace free climbers, A4 Tree
serving as the rope guns for the final slab pitches. “When I 80’ 5
5.8 4 120’
was up there, all I had in my mind was to push it. I climbed 5.8
to good stances and I had a bolt kit, but I just kept running
it out. I was brought up in a certain era where you would 4th class 2 140’
avoid drilling a bolt at all costs,” recalled Kauk. 120’ 3

5.8
Kauk named the route for a character in John Neihardt’s 1 150’
book Black Elk Speaks, which he read at belays. C2

Photo: xRez.com 235

 Aurora VI 5.7 A4
FA: September 1981 - Greg Child, Peter Mayfield
8 105’

A3
16 120’
5.6 or
C1
Scorched Red .5-5” 5.6 14 150’
Earth Tower
cool P C2+ No
crystals
150’ 7 The American Zone 150’ 15 .3-3”
belay takes
.6-2” 5.10 nice ledge
1’X6’ ledge (uneven)
or Aurora finishes
C1 on T.Trip
.3-2”
A4
heads few Native 5.7
Son T.Trip
.5-2”
A3+ hooks

13 140’

Rack:
14

mantel
12 Beaks: 4 ea #1-#3
3 LAs: 1 ea #1 - #3
3 Sawed Angles: 1 ea 5/8”-1”
140’ 6
Bat Nuts: 1 ea A3
Flake Cams: 3 ea .3”-4”
1 ea 5”
C1 2 ea 7”
Offset Cams: 2 ea A3
awk
chimney 10-15 Heads: mostly #2, #3 12 145’
6.5”
3 Circleheads
Hooks: 2 ea
Camhooks
A3+ 15 Rivet/Keyhole Hangers few
.3-1.5”
Sticky A2
Bat
Rice
Cave A3
exp
110’ 5 Gong
400’ to belay takes Flake
ground .75-3”

wild 5.8 11 140’

chimney
Scorched
C2 Earth
125’ 4
Golden
belay Finger
takes 2-4” A2+ The
of Leavittator
T.TP P Fate
link 3&4 C3 rip P
w. 70m rope P “The All-Time-
3 110’ Head Crack”
Scorched C2 A3
Earth

r
A2 5.8 solab
Sticky 140’ 2 C2
Native C3+
El Cap Son 165’ hooks Rice 10 130’
Tree S2 C2
.5-3”
sloping 60m to Native black
ledge ground Son streak
Golden
Blade
var.
C2+ Virginia A3 hooks

ram 9 140’
p 50’ Girdle
Traverse wet in spring/summer
5.6
1 150’
5.8 or
C2 hooks A3+
exp

original
Aurora starts after start
the first 3.5 pitches C2
of Tangerine Trip
5.5
5.9 5.0 A2
recommended

236 | El Capitan
Aurora is a sometimes wild but never too epic odyssey
up the Southeast Face. It follows many natural features,
linked by short sections of rivets. It is similar though
slightly easier than Native Son, and is a logical step up
from Iron Hawk, The Shield, or Never Never Land.
120’ 16
Plan: Most folks fix to pitch 3 or 5 and then spend four 5.6
15 150’
nights on the wall. The American Zone is the only ledge
5.10 or C1
on the route (portaledge still required), so make sure to
camp there.
The Elements/Retreat: Aurora gets sun from mid-morn- 150’ 14
ing to mid-afternoon. This route is very steep but in the A3+
spring it suffers from seepage and runoff on pitches four
and five. To retreat rappel the route, down-aiding and 140’ 13 Tangerine
penjis required. A3 Trip

FA History: Peter Mayfield and Greg Child made the first 145’ 12
Gong
ascent in September 1981. The pair had not scoped the A3 Flake
route thoroughly. “We briefly checked out the line with 11
140’
some borrowed binoculars and then went for it. This
Golden Finger
gave the route a real unknown feeling,” remembered A3
Of Fate
Mayfield. This contrasted with other FAists of the day,
who notoriously scoped routes with high-powered 10 130’
telescopes, and had pitches and belays all planned out.
A3
The duo was delighted when nearly continuous features
140’ 9
appeared, requiring them to drill only 58 bolts on the
entire climb. Mayfield and Child used many natural A3+
belays, which were later bolted. Mayfield didn’t approve.
“I think it’s a shame that anchors get bolted no matter Red 8 105’
Tower A3
what. Creating intricate natural anchors used to be part “American
of the game, but now that is out of style. It is assumed 150’ 7 Zone”
that on a wall you have to have three bolts at each belay.”
A4
Mayfield got quite the surprise the second night while
kicking back on his portaledge. “At dusk, hundreds of 140’ 6

bats emptied out of a crack right next to my portaledge.

Bat A3+
Their flight path was six inches above my face and the 120’
Cave 5

ledge gently vibrated as many of them bumped into the

C2 4 125’
straps. After what seemed like an eternity, the bats
A2+
stopped pouring out, my terror subsided, and I was able
to go to sleep. Then a few hours later, the same scenario 3 110’

unfolded in reverse as the hundreds of bats returned to C2

the crack.” 2 140’
C2+
The men topped out after nine days on the wall. They
named the route for the colorful section of wall they 1150’
climbed through, the sunsets they had admired, and for C2
their mutual interest in the Aurora Borealis.

Photo: xRez.com 237

 9 130’
5.8 Tangerine Trip VI 5.7 A3
1’x6’
ledge .5-4” FA: March 1973 - Charlie Porter, J.P. St. Croix 14 165’

head v 10c
a r. or C1 “Sobriety”
ramp 5.8 or
Sticky C1
Rice
5.8

130’ 8

C2 .3-1”
hooks C1

A2 90’
or sawed offs 17
.5-4”
C3
C2 awk
5.7

13 140’
5.6

110’ 7

5.8 rotten
150’ 16
Gold Corner
C2 loose 5.10 nice ledge
or C2
C1 .4-4” awk
.3-4 .3-2” (for Virginia pitch)
A2 .3-3”
5.9 or Native 5.7
C1 A3 Son
130’ 6
wide
12 140’
110’ V6
C2
C2 hooks
130’ 15

C2 A2 awesome p NO!
loose thin splitter
C2+
.3-1.25”
.3-3”

A3 hooks
5 160’ V5 120’
Aurora C2
many
.3-2” A2+ thin
“Avatar”
C2 A2+ few 165’
.3-1.5” 14
11 165’
C3 or
A2 sawed
angles A2 fixed heads
Aurora hooks
p p
A2 or p
wild p
Virginia Rack:
4 330’ to ground 4 Beaks: 1 ea #1
penjis 80’
3 110’ V4 1 ea #2 few
C1 fix to intermediate
C2 Virginia Station 2 ea #3 .3-.6”
link 3&4 A2 arrows
w. 60m rope or C3 4 LAs: 1 ea #2
V3 140’
2 ea #3
or 1 ea #5
5.8 lab
140’ 2 C2 s 3 Sawed Angles: 1 ea 5/8”-1” A2
A2+ fixed Nuts: 1 ea regular, 2 ea micro
heads
C2 more rivets Cams: 4 ea .4”-1” 10 150’
.5-3” and features
than shown
C2
2 ea 1.25”-4”
A2
1 ea 5”
Lost in
Iron 110’ V2 America 6 Heads: 2 ea #2-#4
Hawk 60m
C2+
to ground Hooks: 2 ea
5.7 .5-5” C2+
Camhooks
ram 10-15 Rivet Hangers
p 50’ Girdle L1 140’ 5”
5.6 Traverse
A2 nice ledge 5.9 or
1 150’ C1
V1 90’ A2+ 9

C2 hooks A2+ p .5-3”

off 5.6
route
A3 Lost In
America In spring of 1952, Bob Swift, Will Siri, and Bill Dunmire climbed to
Virginia A3 thin El Cap Tree. This was the first significant climb on El Capitan and
C2
aks is still the route used to start most of the climbs in this area.
5.5 A3 be
5.0
They climbed, in part, to assess whether El Cap Tree was a
5.9
(recommended) Jeffrey pine or Ponderosa pine. It was a Ponderosa (R.I.P.).
Zodiac,
big clearing

238 | El Capitan
 Tangerine Trip is a rare southeast face moderate - an A3 route
in an ocean of much harder A4 routes. The pros are that this
route is so steep you can climb it when other routes are wet,
and the location is sublime. The cons are it’s a bit traversing,
and has long stretches of bolts. Definitely less classic than
Zodiac, T Trip is still awesome fun. The lack of stances or ledges
at most belays, and some trickier traversing climbing make it a
couple letter grades harder than Zodiac. T Trip is a logical step
up from Ten Days After, Mideast Crisis, or Lurking Fear.
90’ 17
Plan: Definitely start on the first pitch of Lost in America and 5.6
then climb the 3rd and 4th pitches of Virginia - and then 16 150’
continue up the Trip - to avoid doing the downclimbing on 5.10 or C1
pitch 4 that is often very wet and difficult for the cleaner. If you
know you will eventually climb nearby Aurora, you won't miss
15
any Trip pitches by doing this start, as Aurora does the first 3.5 130’ C2+
pitches of the Trip.
165’
14
Most folks fix to pitch 4 their first day. Bring the belay seat! The
wall is steep and the climbing can be a little slow at times, so
most people end up hauling on day 2 and climbing to pitch 5 C2
13 140’
or so. Note that pitch 5 is long and can be slow to lead and
clean. Most parties spend 3 to 4 nights on the wall. C2
12 140’
There are small ledges on top of pitches 7 and 9 which make a
hanging bivy much more enjoyable, because you have a place A2+
165’
11
to set things down on the ledge, like your stove or beer.
A2
The rivets on this route are newer, and have really big heads, so
bring larger rivet hangers or extra stoppers that you can use as 10 150’
rivet hangers.
A2
The Elements/Retreat: The Trip is in the sun from mid-morn-
ing to mid-afternon. It is one of the most protected routes on El
Cap, but the top two pitches definitely get soaked - C1 and 5.6, 130’ 9
“Sobriety” (10c or C1)
so not that epic but can be tough in snow. To retreat rappel the
route, down-aiding and penjis required. From pitch 7 down, 130’ 8
rappel down the more direct Virginia route. A2 or C3
Gold 110’ 7
FA History: Royal Robbins attempted the route solo in 1972 Corner
but turned back after placing 50 bolts in the first 700 feet. In C2 A3
April 1973, Charlie Porter and J.P. de St. Croix made the first 130’ 6 6 110’
ascent over a stormy ten day period. C2
“Avatar” 5 160’ A3 Virginia
The wall is so overhanging that even though it stormed for the A2
5 120’

first eight days, the team barely got wet. Porter led the whole A2+
Black A2
route, St. Croix having never climbed a wall and having just
Cat 4 110’
met Porter a few weeks before - and this was the era of hip 110’ 3 A2
belays and hammock bivis! Porter was dismayed when the C2 3 140’
upper features on the route turned out to be mostly blank. 2 140’ A2+
Several pitches of bolts were required. In the 80s and 90s, the C2+
2 110’
original dowels that Porter placed shallowly terrified repeat
ascentionists. My partners and I replaced the bolts in the early 1 150’ A2 Virginia

2000s over several ascents. C2 1 90’

A3

Photo: xRez.com 239

 Virginia VI 5.7 A3
FA: March 1992 - Steve Bosque, Chuck Clance
17 90’

5.6
130’ 8
.3-1” 11 165’
C2 C1
hooks
A2 fixed heads 150’ 16
A2 hooks
or sawed offs 5.10 nice ledge
C3 or
5.7 C1

.3-2.5”
few Native 5.7
.3-.6” Son
150’ T7
110’ 7

Gold Corner

C2 loose A2 thin 130’ 15

p NO!
.3-2” 10 150’ C2+
A2
.3-3”
5.9 or A2
C1 A3
130’ T6
wide
C2+
110’ 6
.5-4.5” Aurora
C2 hooks
14 165’
4.5”
C2 A2 awesome
loose thin splitter 5.9 or
C1
9 130’

1’x6’ .5-3.5”
ledge
A3 hooks 10c
head v or C1
T5 160’ 5 120’
ar.
many ramp
Avatar .3-2”
A2+ few Sticky
C2 .3-1.5” Rice
C3 or 5.8 or
A2 sawed C1 .5-4”
angles C2 awk
Aurora
8
p p 13 140’
Virginia
A2 or p
wild
penjis
p
4 60’ Rack:
T3 110’ T4 330’ to ground 9 Beaks: 2 ea #1 5.8 rotten
C1
C2 3 ea #2
link 3&4 A2 arrows 4 ea #3
w. 60m rope or C3 C2
3 140’
5 LAs: 1 ea #2, #5 .4-3.5” awk
or 3 ea #3
5.8 lab
140’ T2 C2 s 4 Sawed Angles: 1 ea 1/2”-1”
A2+ fixed Nuts: 1 ea regular, 2 ea micro
heads
C2 more rivets Cams: 3-4 ea .4”-1”
and features 12 140’
.5-3”
than shown 2-3 ea 1.25”-4” C2
C2
1 ea 5”
Lost in
Iron 110’ 2 America Offset Cams: 2 ea
Hawk 60m
C2+
to ground 6 Heads: 2 ea #2-#4
5.7
Hooks: 2 ea
.3-1.25”
ram Girdle Camhooks
p 50’ Traverse L1 140’
10-15 Rivet Hangers
5.6
A2 nice ledge
T1 150’
A2+
1 70’ C2
C2 hooks A2+ p .5-3” A2+ thin
NO 5.6 Lost in 11
A3 America
start
A3 thin Virginia is named in loving memory Virginia Parker, daughter of
C2
A3 beaks
longtime Yosemite - Ahwahneeche basketweaver Lucy Parker,
5.5
5.9 5.0 who died in a car accident.
(recommended)
Zodiac
big clearing

240 | El Capitan
 Lost in America VI 5.10 A4
FA: June 1985 - Greg Child, Randy Leavitt

5 100’
Rack:
145’ 10 11 Beaks: 3 ea #1, #2
A1 5 ea #3
.3-2”
3 KBs: 1 ea #3-#5
A2 5 LAs: 1 ea #1
A2+ or 2 ea #2, #3
C3
2 Angles: 1 ea 1/2”, 5/8”
bat hooks below
dicey flake C3 loose
Nuts: 2 ea micro, 1 ea regular
Ned’s Cams: 3 ea .3”-2”
Badlands A3 exp 2 ea 3”, 4”
4 150’
2 ea 5”
.3-3” 9 135’ Offset Cams: 2 ea
C1 fingers
12 Heads: 4 ea #2-#4
Hooks: 2 ea inc. large
sharp! A4 loose
10-15 Rivet Hangers
A2+ backclean
145’ 8

.3-2.5”
.3-2”
A3
loose 50’ 16

pass haulline east

A3 of small tree
heads 5.7
fist 5.10 var.
link 15 & 16 or not recommended
A3 w. 65m rope C1
135’ 3 7 140’ 140’ 15
belay takes
1-2” 5.6
C1+ ramp
A2 C2+

few .3-1.25”
A3 fixed junk
Ned’s heads .3-6.5”
LAs
5.9 ow
slab
6 150’ 120’ 14

A3 Bay of Pigs
The fixed
Girdle A2
Cauliflower heads
Traverse T. Trip hooks rope drag
belay 8
NO
155’ 2

5.10R 5.8R
A2 A2 awk
blades Ned’s “Beeferoni”
A3 var. 13 110’
5
C2 awk

added rivets
Lost in America
finishes on Z.M.
Big 150’ 12
Country
.3-2” Z.M.
A3 thin
original Pitch 13
route
C1
Girdle
Traverse
140’
1

Ned’s Place of Dead Roads

Virginia
A2+

.3-3” 11 135’
5.6
ramp
Ned’s Fly or steep!
A2 Die
A3+
fixed
T.Trip A3 beaks heads
Zodiac
big clearing
slab

10

242 | El Capitan
Lost in America is Southeast Face glory: steep, intimidating, and
relatively straight up. The cruxes are a few short loose sections.
Lost In America is similar to Zenyatta Mondatta but has more
classic climbing and is less loose. It is a good step up from the
Shield, Never Never Land, or Mescalito. L n A was famous when
established for having mandatory 5.10 climbing, a rarity in the
Yosemite bigwall world, but that section is no longer mandatory
as weaker free climbers - me and my partners, haha ;) - found an 50’ 16 5.7
aid alternative to that pitch.
140’ 15140’
Plan: Most folks fix to pitch 2 or 3 and spend four nights on the A3
wall. The wall is so steep that it can be strenuous to fix too high! 120’ 14
Bring the belay seat. A2

The Elements/Retreat: L n A gets sun from mid-morning to 110’ 13

C2
mid-afternoon. It is awesomely protected until you reach the 150’ 12
Zenyatta Mondatta top-out pitches, which get hit badly with A3
runoff. So unlike Tangerine Trip and routes that join it like Native Zenyatta
Son which only have two easy topout pitches that get hit by the 135’ 11 Mendatta
elements, on L n A you have to climb 3.5 wet pitches to the top. “Fly Or Die”
Climb prepared! To retreat rappel the route, down-aiding and A3+
penjis required. 10 145’

FA History: Greg Child and Randy Leavitt made the first ascent A2
in1985. This was considered one of the last direct “prize” routes 9
135’
on the Southeast Face, and the pair didn’t talk to anyone upon A4
reaching the Valley but headed straight for the cliff. “We mindful- 8 145’
ly avoided the greatest single danger to the route, the Mountain
Room Bar,” recalled Child. A3
7140’
This wasn’t a fast and light alpine-style ascent. Child recalled, C1+
“We had a hedonistic desire to attain unsurpassed levels of
comfort in an overhanging environment, which accounted for 6 150’
Bay Of Pigs
the overkill wattage of our ghetto blaster, pillows for the
portaledge, changes of underwear, shaving kit, pre-moistened 5.10 R or A3
A3
towelettes, books, newspapers, gourmet food, and other excess- 5 100’
es totalling 400 pounds.” A3
4 150’
On pitch three, they were dismayed to find proof that someone
else had been to their spot: a fixed nut. But the nut turned out to
be from an early attempt at the Girdle Traverse. Child cheater- A3
stick-clipped the nut, avoiding drilling a few rivets through a 3135’
blank section, although rivets were later added to this section.
They called the pitch “Astral Lasso.” The Cauliflower A3
The team topped out after ten days. During their climb, they 155’ 2

witnessed a strange flash of light from a Tomahawk missle test. A2

Child wondered, “What if the mysterious display had been the
detonation of an atomic bomb? What if we were the only 140’ 1
survivors? Nowhere to go, nothing to do, no one to give a damn
about our climb. We’d be Lost in America.”
A3

Photo: xRez.com
243
 5 175’ KAOS VI 5.7 A4+ 60’ 13
FA: April 1993 - Steve Gerberding, Dave Bengston
pass haul line
east of tree
5.7
fist 5.10 var.
or not recommended
C1

5.6
A4+ beaks 140’ 12

Rack: belay takes

1-2” ramp
2 RURPs A2
A4+
hooks 15 Beaks: 5 ea #1-#3
watch
bivy
5 KBs: 1 ea #1-#5 A3 rope drag
12 LAs: 3 ea #1-#3 fixed junk
120’ 4 1 ea #4 thin

2 ea #5
5.8
wide 4 Angles: 2 ea 1/2”, 5/8”
loose 120’ 11
4 Sawed Angles: 1 ea 1/2”-1”
Nuts: 1 ea
A2 Cams: 3 ea .3”-4”
20 Heads A2
Hooks: 2 ea inc. pointed and large rope
Rivet Hangers - this route has very drag
3 150’ reachy rivets!
Bolt Kit

A3 beaks 10 160’
& hooks
C2 awk
Note: 2018 rockfall signifcantly watch
altered this pitch - much loose Kaos finishes on rope drag
rock is still present, and rivets may the last six pitches
be needed. of Zenyatta Mondatta
A3
7 150’ A2
Lost in
America
2 190’
A3+
Zenyatta thin
Mondatta

A4+ slab
A3+ hooks
thin A2+
9 120’

A3+
6 140’

1 200’ A3
stretcher
9 O’Clock Roof 160’ 8
A3+

A3+ 5 A3 sustained
A3+
beaks, heads
1.5”
Zenyatta
Mondatta
Abstract
Expressionist C3 hooks

ramp
ZM
Zodiac
Shortest 7
11c or C1 Straw

KAOS travels through some of the more geologically diverse terrain

on El Capitan. One can find six of the seven different rock types on
El Capitan on this route.

244 | El Capitan
 Cyclops Eye 60’ 13
5.7
140’ 12
A3
The Golden 120’ 11
Nipple A2
160’ 10
Pacific Ocean

A3+
9 120’

A3+
The Golden 8 160’
Finger of Fate
A3
150’ 7

A4+
Baja North America
Zenyatta
Atlantic Ocean

The Artist’s 140’ 6

Mondatta
Palette Nine O’ Clock Roof
A3+
Sea of 5 175’
Dreams
A4+

Continental Shelf 120’ 4

A2
Panama
150’ 3
The Wing
A3

El Cap Tree 190’ 2

Black Cat
A3+

200’ 1

A3+

The Footstool
Photo: xRez.com 245
 Zenyatta Mondatta VI 5.6 A4 or C4F
FA: September 1981 - Jim Bridwell, Peter Mayfield, Charlie Row

11 160’

50’ 16

pass haulline east of small tree

5.7 A3 sustained
fist 5.10 var.
link 15 & 16 or not recommended
beautiful w. 65m rope C1
aplite dikes 1.5”
140’ 15
6 120’ Lucky Streaks
belay takes
(sweet) Bivy 1-2” 5.6
ramp C3 hooks
C2 C2+
5.8
or
C1 awk Kaos 2.5”
A3
fixed junk 10 120’
This was the last independent line to be thin
established on El Capitan, climbing watch
C2 rope drag
entirely through new terrain. A4
beaks
120’ 14
Girdle 5 130’
Traverse

.75-3” A2
.3-3”
rope
5.8 drag
hands C1
loose
Shortest Straw
140’ 9
A3 R The
Saw Blade
13 160’
125’ 4
2’x4’ 5.5 C2 awk C1+
ledge watch awk
rope drag
C2+.3-2” .3-3.5”
C1 C2
slab hooks
A3 hooks A2
Lost in
beaks America
The A2
A3 White Circle splitter
3 130’ thin

Right Ventricle Variation 8 150’

FA: June 1998- slab
.3-2” Nine O’Clock Roof
Bryan Law, Chris Kerrick A2+ p
Addl. Rack: 12 120’
C3 bathooks
A3
Few Blades, Arrows C3+
1 ea Baby Angles
Extra Heads (inc. circle)
A3
2 115’ A3+
heads
240’ to
ground
A3
.3-.75” A3+ hooks
A3
7 120’
A3 11
heads/ beaks
A3
thin
130’ 1 Rack: or
C3
12 Beaks: 4 ea #1-#3
C3 3 LAs: 1 ea #1-#3
hooks Lighting Bolt
4 Sawed Angles: 1 ea 1/2”-1”
Roofs
Nuts: 1 ea
Cams: 3 ea .3”-1.25”
.3-1” 2 ea 1.5”-4” C2
Abstract awk
Kaos
A3
Expressionist Offset Cams: 2 ea
heads hang food 8 Heads: 2 ea #1-#4 6
here
Zodiac Hooks: 2 ea (inc. 3” hook)
Shortest Camhooks
5.11lb Straw 10-15 Rivet/Keyhole Hangers

246 | El Capitan
Zenyatta is an old school classic. It follows a relatively natural line through some
cool features, but also has plenty of loose rock and poor rivets. It is a logical step up
from The Shield or Mescalito. It is a big step up from Zodiac, but is doable if you
loved the Zode. ZM is similar but shorter than Sea of Dreams. ZM is good, but it is
more of a location climb because you climb many iconic features; it is not as good
quality as Shortest Straw or Lost in America, which are nearby and similar, but it’s
still cool.

Plan: Most parties fix two pitches and then spend four or five nights on the wall.
There are no good ledges, but all belays will accommodate two portaledges. This
might be a good route to flag the portaledge.

The Elements/Retreat: ZM gets sun from 9am to 5pm-ish. It is super overhanging,

so protected during storms, until the last 3.5 pitches. These topout pitches are 50’ 16
5.7
circuitous and slow, so are not good in stormy conditions. Climb prepared! To 140’15
retreat rappel the route, down-aiding and penjis required. A3
120’ 14
FA History: Jim Bridwell, Charlie Row, and Peter Mayfield made the first ascent over
seven days in 1981. Ron Kauk, Dale Bard, and Kim Schmitz had done the first six A2
pitches, but bailed. Then Bridwell, Mayfield, and Craig Calonica went for it, but got 160’ 13
caught in a big storm and rapped, leaving their ropes fixed. First ascents have
A3
always been coveted in the Valley, but when Bridwell and Mayfield came back with
Charlie Row to finish the route they were shocked to find that “some clever
120’ 12
assholes,” as Bridwell described them, had pulled their fixed rope tight and cut it.
Because of the dynamic nature of the rope, the end bounced up and then hung A3+
twenty feet above the ground. Bigwall climbers are remarkably inventive and 11 160’
persistent, though, and the trio quickly overcame this obstruction by stick-clipping
an ascender to the line, and continuing on their vertical way.
A3
This route was originally horrifically loose and dangerous - it had five A5 pitches in a 10120’

row when established. Today, while much cleaner, ZM still has some of the worst A4
rivets on the Southeast Face. Bridwell, the ringleader, bragged about purposely 9 140’
drilling the rivets shallowly to increase the difficulty. After the snafu with the fixed The Saw Blade
rope, the obstacles just kept coming. “Everyone was giving a hundred and ten
A2
percent of themselves, as was evident in the standard of climbing being produced,” 8 150’
recalled Bridwell. “The hard pitches felt like a sport aid climb,” remembered Nine O’ Clock Roof
Mayfield, “very discontinuous, with lots of hooking, tensioning, and copperheading
from small feature to small feature.” A3+
120’ 7
Mayfield was only 19 at the time, and Bridwell had to teach him how to make A3
Lightning Bolt
difficult copperhead placements while on lead. It was only his second bigwall Roof 6 120’

climb! Bridwell was well known for mentoring younger climbers. “Throughout his
life,” Mayfield said, “Jim always identified climbers with potential, and then inspired C2
them to achieve that potential.” 130’ 5

The going was slow at times. “One pitch per day might seem ludicrous to the A3 R
uninitiated, but first ascents of this extreme nature require at least twice as much 125’ 4
energy, concentration, and time than do subsequent ascents,” explained Bridwell. A2
Today’s ZM climbers couldn’t imagine doing the route without beaks and small
offset cams, but in 1981 they were lucky to have knifeblades and some original 130’ 3

rigid-stem Friends. Bridwell’s wife Peggy suggested the route name: the title of a
the popular album by The Police. A3
115’ 2
Twenty years after making the first ascent, Mayfield repeated ZM with his son
A3
Braden. At that time, there were tons of fixed heads on the route, so instead of the
intro to an El Cap nail-up that Peter had envisioned for Braden, the pair climbed the 130’ 1
A3
route placing only a couple pins. Nowadays folks use more beaks than heads, so
clean climbing on fixed heads is less possible.

Photo: xRez.com
 The Shortest Straw VI 5.7 A3+
FA: March 1990 - Rick Lovelace Peanut
40’ 12
Rack: Link 11 & 12 2’x6’
Ledge
1-3”
12 Beaks: 3 ea #1, 4ea #2, 5ea #3 w/ 65m rope 5.8 or
(only if soloing) A2 C1
3 LAs: 1 ea #1-#3
Nuts: 1 ea (2ea micros)
11 160’
Cams: 2 ea .3”-1.5”
Best bigwall topout! Zodiac
2 ea 1.75”-5”
15 90’
Offset Cams: 1-2 ea
C3 hooks
12 Heads: 4 ea #2-#4 C2
Hooks: 2 ea (inc. pointed) easy hooks
1ea 3” hook .4-2” 10b or
C2F or A2
Camhooks “Sun & Steel”
NO
15 Rivet Hangers
5.2 ramp reachy
NO 5.5 120’haul
85’ 14
5.5
C2 140’ 10
3’x15’ ledge

160’ A3 hooks,
5 5.7 heads
hand traverse
in
free shoes C2 th 13 110’
.3-1”
helpful (#3, #4 camalot useful)
few .5-1.5”
A2 beaks,
.3-4” arrows
10d
sharp or C1
Z.M. 5.10R var. edge
4-5” for 80’

5.9 lb
or
C3F or A3+ (short) C1 9 130’
4 100’
A3 loose

Z.M. 12
pitch 5 A2hooks
.5-2”

C2
.3-.75”
Zenyatta
A2 beaks Mondatta 8 130’ "It’s all A1 until you fall!" - Rick Lovelace
The C2
NO! Saw Blade
false ladder Abstract .5-2”
3 130’ Expressionist

A3heads The
.3-3” Nine O’Clock Roof
White Circle
A3+ hooks A2
“Journey Through The Brain”
A3 hooks 7 130’
1’ x 6’
Welcome Home
Ledge
2 140’

A3
heads A2+

Zodiac
pitch 7
.3-1.25”
A3
Beaks
1 130’ 110’ 6

A2

Abstract .3-1”
Expressionist
C1
.3-4”
Zenyatta Zodiac
Mondatta A3 heads
hang hooks
food C2 loose
iffixing 5

cave

248 | El Capitan
 Shortest Straw is top-notch, technical thin climbing in a first-rate location. This
15 90’ route defines the more modern aid routes, which link thin features using hooks
10b or A2 and rivets. The White Circle section is outrageous! This is an excellent first harder
14
85’ route on this part of the wall, as it’s short and follows better rock than Zenyatta
12a
or C2 Mondatta or Lost in America. Shortest Straw is a natural step up from the Shield,
13 110’ NA Wall, or Afroman.
10d or C1 Plan: Most parties fix two pitches, and then spend four or five nights on the wall.
40’ Peanut Ledge
12 Peanut Ledge is the only sleepable ledge, but the portaledge bivis are awesome.
Bring the belay seat - or better yet, this might be a good route to flag your ledge
160’ 11 A2 as it is so steep. The Straw is a less committing than other routes of its rating,
C3 because you can so easily climb onto the Zodiac after six pitches if your stoke
“Sun and Steel” goes south.
The Elements/Retreat: SS gets sun from 9am to 5pm-ish. This is one of the best
10 140’ routes to do in poor weather, as only the last couple pitches receive runoff. To
retreat, rappel the route. From pitch 4 you can rap down and slightly toward the
A3 Nose on Zenyatta Mondatta anchors.
FA History: Longtime Valley local Bill Russell spotted this line and recruited Rick
9130’
A3 Lovelace to attempt it in 1989. The pair bailed onto Zodiac after six pitches
because of slow progress. Lovelace returned solo in 1990 and re-led the route
The Saw Blade from the ground, removing many of the rivets that Russell had placed because he
8 130’ found nearby cracks that he was able to use instead.
Lovelace cruised the first four pitches, but then decided to fix and rap down. “I
A3
dropped my rappel device and then my headlamp wouldn’t work. I changed the
Welcome Home bulb and battery but still nothing. So I took it as a bad omen and rappelled off
130’ 7
Ledge right then. I tied every line I had together, but when I came to the end of the ropes
I was still 30 feet above the ground. The only thing left to do was to tie together all
my aiders and all of my slings. When I got down a huge 13-day storm came in. If I
A3
had been on the wall, I would have been clobbered.”
6 110’
After the storm, Lovelace returned to his high point and spent eight more days on
C2 the route. Lovelace was not fond of aid ratings, so he only rated two pitches on his
160’ 5
climb, calling them both A1+. To him, it was simple: “It’s all A1 until you fall.”
Unfortunately because this climb is right next to the much easier Zodiac, people
A3+ thought the A1+ rating meant it was an easier climb and started up. Several rivets
140’ 4 were added on the first couple pitches when climbers found themselves in over
their heads.
A2
“It was just cool being up there in the middle of winter with nobody on the wall.
130’ 3 Nobody in the Valley. You know what it’s like to be up there by yourself? It’s like,
‘well, we’re just here toiling.” - Rick Lovelace
“Journey Through
A3+
The Brain”
140’ 2

A3

130’ 1

A3

Photo: xRez.com 249

 Zodiac VI 5.6 A3 or 5.13c/d
FA: October 1972 - Charlie Porter
145’
6
Pearly Gates Ledge
FFA: October 2003 - Alexander and Thomas Huber
2’ x 6’ ledge
good bivy for 1

micro 120’ 11 Lunar Eclipse

nuts C3/A2 or 5.9
hooks
Best bigwall topout! 5.3 step
11c or 90’ great ledge
A3 beaks 15 (difficult to reach)
C2
loose
Black Tower C2
5.8 ow C3 or easy hooks
var. A2 hand placed Devil’s Brow
sawed angles 10b or A2
.4-2” fixed junk C2
5.8 C1 12c var.
NO
5 160’
10 120’
C2 or 5.8 5.2 r Note: do one poor storm bivy
NO amp 85’
5.5 120’ haul from
13 to 15
inverted 14
11b camhook 5.5
10d C3F
or C2 3’ x 15’ ledge or
5.6 A2
5.6
Dead End 5.7 .3-2”
Free hand traverse
Ledge 1’ x 8’ Zodiac
5.8 or 12a C2 thin 13 110’ Mark of steepest pitch
C1 few .5-1.5” (wild traverse) Zorro
.4-2”
C2+
original 10d
route or C1
sharp 12d var.
edge 4-5” for 80’
150’ 9
best
5.9 lb bivy
or C3 or
C1 A2 or 12b
4 140’

The Nipple 5” awk

tie two 60m ropes 11d Peanut 12 160’ C1
together and fix on or C1 Ledge
Shortest Straw 2’ x 6’ A2 or C3 inverted camhooks
anchors great bivy 5.8 or 13c/d
115m
to ground .4-3” for 1

Shortest 10b or
Straw C1
.4-3” 8 140’
5.6 5.7
Dead Bird A2+ fixed heads
Ledge backclean or 13c
3 140’
3’ x 4’ ledge Flying The
Buttress .3-1.5”
10b or White Circle
C1 C2 + or 12a
Shortest Surgeon
Straw pitches 2 & 3 .3-3” General C1
can be very wet
in winter and spring , 11
so during these times awk
you must fix to 13a
pitch 4 before C3 cam hooks
hauling or
reachy bolts A2

head El Portal 7 110’

C2 camhook
Shortest C2 or 5.13
Straw
A3 beaks, heads
2 60’
150’ to
ground
C2+ 5.8 or C1

NO

C1
Rack: Shortest
Straw
5.7 6
Surgeon
General
C3
4 Beaks: 1 ea #1, #2 or
1 120’ C2 hooks
or 2 ea #3
A2
Nuts: 2 ea micro, 1 ea regular offset
.3-2” Cams: 3 ea .3”-1.25”
A3+
bathooks, rivets,
chiseled heads (no fun) 2 ea 1.5”-4”
Waiting For The Sun var. 2-3 ea 5” (you only need one 4” and one 5” piece before pitch 13)
FA: Dec. 1993 - Bryan Law
C2+ Offset Cams: 2 ea
6 Hooks: 2 ea (pointed)
3 Camhooks: 2 ea narrow, 1 ea wide
2 Heads: 1 ea #3, #4
6 Rivet Hangers

250 | El Capitan
 Steep and intimidating but eminently doable, Zodiac is one of
the best bigwall aid routes anywhere. Beautiful thin cracks,
15 90’ stances or ledges at most belays, and the ultra-classic White
Circle pitches make Zodiac a five-star route. And it’s only fifteen
10b or A2
14 pitches! It’s so steep your haulbag never touches the wall,
12a 85’
hanging fifteen to twenty feet out in space! Zodiac is
or C2 13 110’ intermediate in the sense that the Nose and Lurking Fear are
beginner climbs -- sure, you have to have the right equipment,
10d or C1 and on the Zodiac you will need to camhook, hook, and most
160’ 12 Peanut Ledge likely place a couple beaks. But when you’re tooled up with
the right kit, it is straightforward and even considered ‘easy’ by
aid climbers.
C2+ or 12a Plan: Most parties fix to pitch 3 or 4 the first day, and bivy at
120’
11
the base. In winter and spring when there is runoff, you have to
fix to pitch 4 - and you cannot bivy at 4 when you start up.
12c or C2
Devil’s Brow From there, plan three to four days on the wall. You will need a
120’ 10 50' lower-out line for your haulbag for pitch 4, so slide your
rope protector fifty feet up your haul line, and butterfly your
load in at the 150-foot point. This gives you 50’ of lower-out
Mark of Zorro
C2+ 12d line, which you can use to dock your pig. The Pearly Gates and
150’ 9 Peanut Ledge are deluxe one-person ledges where you can sit
and cook, so plan to bivy there. Most parties place only a few
The Nipple
beaks. That being said, be careful on the Black Tower pitch
13c/d or C3 where several leaders have broken a leg trying to clean climb
140’ 8 White Circle using sketchy fixed gear. It’s best to play it safe, and nail a
13c couple beaks.
A2+
Flying
Buttress The Elements/Retreat: Zodiac gets Sun from about 9am to
110’ 7 5pm-ish. Arguably the best iffy weather route, pitches 2 - 4 and
“El Portal” 13 - 15 get hit by runoff in a storm, but the rest of the pitches
5.13 or A3 are steep and protected. To retreat rappel the route,
down-aiding and penjis required. From pitch 4 you can rappel
145’ 6
Pearly Gates straight down on Shortest Straw anchors.
11c or A3
Black Tower FA History: Zodiac was originally rated A5, and you can
occasionally meet climbers in the El Cap Meadow who climbed
160’ 5 the route back in the 80s, when it was considered hard A4.
11b or C2 Charlie Porter, a top climber of his time, had to make two
attempts before he completed the first ascent, solo, over seven
days in October 1972. Over time, lots of flakes that were stuck
in the cracks fell out - similar to the Nose as revealed in old
140’
4
12a photos of the Stovelegs. Now on Zodiac, you’ll find beautiful,
11d or C1 splitter small-cam-swallowing cracks where earlier climbers
Dead Bird
Ledge had to nail expanding flakes.
140’ 3

The name was partially attributed to a famous serial killer, the

C2 5.9 ‘Zodiac Killer,’ who was at large during the climb. “I would go up
10d
on the wall, come down, and learn that he had killed again. His
13a killings seemed to be timed with when I was on the climb,”
260’ remembered Porter. “This was also the time (the 70s) when
C2+
110’ 1 everyone was running around talking about the stars.” The
A2 or C3 10d R wildest moment of the climb might have been on the Nipple,
Free Variation where right at the tit the crack becomes too wide to nail.
Calling it ‘hard 5.9’, Porter simply pared down his rack and
liebacked the wide crack with no pro. This section is considered
solid 5.11 today, but most folks aid it with a #5 Camalot!
Photo: xRez.com 251
 7 145’
Pearly Gates Free Zodiac VI 5.13c/d or 5.7 A3 Rack:
2’ x 6’ ledge FFA: October 2003 - Alexander and Thomas Huber
good bivy for 1
FA: October 1972 - Charlie Porter Nuts: 1 ea
micro Cams: 2 ea .3” - 4”
nuts
Best bigwall topout!
11c
19 90’ Note: this route
relies on much fixed
Black Tower
5.8 ow
gear which may be
15
var.
10b
missing
.4-2”
5.8 12a
NO
6

nice 3” x 3’ ledge 5.8 NO Note: do one

(seasonally wet) 85’ 18 120’ haul from
11b 17 to 19
Dead End 10d Lunar Eclipse
3’ x 15’ ledge 5.9
Ledge
5.6
5.6 great ledge
1’ x 8’ ledge backclean (difficult to reach)

5.8 5 12a 17 110’

few .5-1.5” 14
.4-2” Devil’s Brow
10d
original
route sharp 12c
edge 4-5” for 80’
poor storm bivy

5.9
11c

13

12a
tie two 60m ropes 11d Peanut 16 .3-2”
together and fix on or C1 Ledge Mark of
Shortest Straw 2’ x 6’ steepest pitch
anchors great bivy 5.8 Zorro 12d
115m
to ground .4-3” for 1
10b 12
Shortest
Straw .4-3”

5.6 15 12a 12b

4
Dead Bird Ledge
3’ x 4’ ledge 10b Lunar
.3-3” Eclipse
3
The Nipple
4.5” awk

10d
downclimb 13c/d
11
5.9
head

camhook
2 13c
B.U.B.S. The
10
60’
White Circle
p Flying .3-1.5”
150’ to 12b p
ground Buttress
Shortest p p 13a move C1
C2+
Straw

13a
C3 cam hooks
Plastic
C1 Born Surgery
Lunar gold 1
Disaster
C3+ Eclipse Under
120’ rock A Bad p 9
or
A2 Sign 10d R
p
.3-2”
10a R
C1
50’ 13b/c

C2 dark
rock
5.8
8
Shortest
To work the second free ascent, Tommy Caldwell first took Straw 5.7
his dad up the traditional Zodiac in 2 days. A week later Surgeon
7 General
he sent the Free Zodiac ground-up over 5 days.

252 | El Capitan
 19 90’
10b
18
12a 85’
17 110’

10d
160’ 16 Peanut Ledge

12a
15

12a

14
Devil’s Brow
12c
120’ 13

Mark of Zorro
12d
150’ 12
The Nipple
13c/d
140’ 11 White Circle FFA History: Over five months in 2003, Thomas and Alex Huber freed
13c the Zodiac. The route, until then, had been considered impossible to
10
Flying Buttress free because of its steepness. The next year, Tommy Caldwell repeated
13a the route with less than a week’s effort spread over two attempts.
110’ 9
“El Portal”
5.13
5.7
8

145’ 7 Pearly Gates

11c
Black Tower

160’ 6
11b
5

12a

4 Dead Bird Ledge

3

5.9
10d
2
13a
60’
1
110’
10d R

Photo: xRez.com 253

 belay takes
180’ S13
1” - 3”
Surgeon General VI 5.9 A5
FA: May 1990 - Eric Kohl, Walt Shipley
The S7 140’ A3 hooks
White Circle
Slacker’s Toil VI 5.9 A5
FA: May 2001 - Jim Beyer
T7 slab
A4+
“Fetal Alcohol hooks
Syndrome”
exp
Surgeon General 180’ S12
A3
“The Great Sword”

S6 160’ A5-
loose/sharp!
.3-3”
Rack:
belay takes 2 RURPs
.4” - .5” A1
.3-1” 25 Beaks slab
A2 8 KBs
Zodiac 10 LAs overhang
Pearly A4-
4 Angles: 2 ea 1/2”, 5/8” A4
Gates
2’ x 6’ ledge Cams: 3 ea .3”-2”
good bivy for 1 T6 2 ea 3”,4”
A3
very loose Offset Cams: 2ea
A4+
5.9 bad fall 20 Heads: mostly
#2 and #3 A3
3-4” S11 165’
Hooks: all
belay takes
5 165’ 3”
A2+ hooks
A1
loose ramp

Slacker’s Toil exp

A5
2001 Rack: exp
A3+beaks

A5 Rack .3-3”
Slacker’s Toil,
3/8” Hangers Lunar Eclipse T11 Surgeon
General
1/4” Keyhole hangers A5
200’ S10

Slacker’s Toil
finishes on the last
4 pitches of Zodiac
5.8 A2+
4
A3+ belay takes
.75” - 1”
Lunar
5.6, Eclipse
A2
The
A3 Devil’s Brow
Lunar Eclipse
A2 Slacker’s
Toil A3+ hooks
3 95’ belay takes .75” - 1”

A3+
S9 T10 165’

A4

“Festering
“The Foe” Deformities” A5+
A4+
exp A4
hooks
180’
2

A3+ cams T9
hooks
5.7 A1 arête
3” “Cliff Swallows
Attack!”
exp
.4-4” S8 155’

A4
A4+
A4

Lunar
165’ 1 T8 Eclipse
The
White Circle A2
A3+ hooks arrows “The Milky Way”
light dark
rock rock
“Velcro Fly” S7
A3
A4 sawed angles
T7
Zodiac
Lunar
Eclipse

254 | El Capitan
 180’ 13

A3
180’ 12

A4
11 165’

200’10 A3+
Lunar Eclipse The Devil’s Brow

A3+ Lunar Eclipse

9 165’

“Festering A4
Deformities”
8 155’

A4+
7 140’
“Fetal Alcohol
Syndrome” (A4+)
160’ 6
A2

5 165’

A5

4 80’
A3+
95’ 3
The Foe A4+
180’ 2
A4

165’ 1

“Velcro Fly” A4

Photo: xRez.com 255

 140’
8
Lunar Eclipse VI 5.7 A4
FA: July 1982 - John Barbella, Steve Schneider

18 90’
A3
KBs, LAs 70’ 14 C2
C3/A2 easy hooks
slime or 5.9 120’ Surgeon
General 10b or A2
hooks 13 .4-2” fixed junk
Zodiac 20’x2’ ledge
great bivy for 3 NO!
A3+
hooks C2+
Lunar Eclipse 5.2
finishes on the last NO ram
120’ 7 4 pitches of Zodiac p 5.5
200’ haul 5.5 85’ 17
from 5 10d
or C2 3’ x 15’ ledge

A1
“Bite the The
Dike Ramp” 5.7
A2+ Devil’s Brow Plastic hand traverse in 110’
C2 th
16
Surgery
12 Disaster
120’ few .5-1.5”
A3
hooks Surgeon General, A2+
130’ 6 Slacker’s Toil 10d
or C1
sharp
P.S.D. edge
.5-4” loose 4-5” for 80’
“White Line Bad Seed,
Fever” B.U.B.S.
cool aplite dikes! C2
or 10a 5.9 lb
or
A4 KBs, C1
beaks,
hooks stay
Devil’s left
Tower Bad
100’ 5 Seed Peanut 15 160’
5.5 Plastic 11 120’ Ledge
Surgery 2’ x 6’
Cats & Frogs B.U.B.S. Disaster great bivy 5.8
Ledge for 1
15’x5’ sloping ledge
C1 Shortest 10b or
Straw C1
4 90’ .4-3”
5.7
5.8
or C1 A2+

C2 + or 12a

10 130’
A3 14
hooks, heads

130’ 3
C2
A2
“Left Hand hooks Plastic
.5-4” of Darkness” Surgery
Slacker’s Disaster
Toil
A2+ 140’ 9

A2
arrows

2 60’ “The Milky Way”

Free Zodiac,
Girdle
Traverse 2’x6’ ledge
200’ to
ground Rack:
loose 12 Beaks: 2 ea #1, 4 ea #2, 6 ea #3
5.9+ 4 KBs: 1 ea #1-#4
or A1 Girdle
Slacker’s A3 9 LAs: 1 ea #1, #4, #5
Traverse sawed
Toil
8
3 ea #2, #3
Free 2 Sawed Angles: 1 ea 3/4”, 1”
Zodiac
160’ 1 Nuts: 2 ea
Cams: 3 ea .3”-4”
A3 Offset Cams: 3 ea
light dark 15 Heads
rock rock
gold Hooks: 2 ea
rock
Surgeon Born Under 10 Rivet Hangers
General A3 a Bad Sign
heads Bolt Kit

Zodiac

256 | El Capitan
 18 90’
10b or A2
17 85’
Lunar Eclipse is another Southeast Face primo route. A notch harder,
C2
16 110’ and at times looser than Zodiac, Lunar packs in plenty of awesome
climbing, and includes a couple cool ledges, making it a moderate
C1 or 10d alternative to the more sustained nearby routes like Shortest Straw or
160’ 15
Peanut Ledge
Lost in America. But the A3 is more challenging than cleaner routes like
Squeeze Play or Horse Chute.
C1
Plan: Most parties fix two or three pitches and then spend 3 - 4 nights
C2 on the wall. Make sure you sleep at the classic ledges at 5 and 15!
C3 or A2
14 70’ Devil’s
13 120’ Brow
The Elements/Retreat: Lunar gets sun from mid-morning to late
afternoon. This route gets hit by substantial runoff, so can be unclimb-
A2+ able in winter and spring, and is definitely not a good choice if storms
Zodiac 120’ 12 are forecast. To retreat rappel the route, down-aiding and penjis
A2+
required.
11 120’ FA History: Steve “Shipoopi” Schneider and John Barbella made the
first ascent over six days in 1982. The first few pitches had been
A2+
10 130’
climbed by Charlie Row, who left his ropes but abandoned the
climb. Almost as important: Schneider led the whole climb wearing
a straw-colored sombrero, most definitely staking claim to the First
A2
140’ 9 Sombrero Ascent of El Cap!
“The
Milky Way” A3 On their first night, the pair slept on the ledge at the top of pitch 5.
From time to time, the runoff from nearby Horsetail Fall would
140’ 8 drench them, awakening hordes of granite-colored frogs. So they
named this spot “Cats and Frogs Ledge”.
A3+
The crux pitch 8 (now rated easier than pitch 6 only because of
120’ 7
dangerous bathooks and rivets on that pitch) was Schneider’s lead
“Bite The Dike” (A3)
and it didn’t disappoint. “I hooked forever, and then, finally, after 60
feet of hooks and worthless gear, I got a decent placement with a
130’ 6
tied-off knifeblade. I don’t know when I realized that the fall
“White Line Fever” (A4)
potential was severe enough that I could have nailed the huge ramp
100’ on the previous pitch had I whipped, for I only rated the pitch A4. As
Cats and 5

Frogs Ledge I made ascents of other El Cap testpieces, I realized this pitch must
C1 have been A5. This pitch now sports a “chicken bolt” halfway
4 90’
through the hooking, severely reducing the consequences of a
A3 fall........I will always remember the original pitch 8 as a pinnacle of
130’ 3
my younger, bolder days as an aid climber. In other words, today I’d
“Left Hand be clipping that ”chicken bolt” for all it was worth.”
of Darkness (A2+)
60’ 2
FA History continues on the next page
5.9+ or C1
160’ 1

A3

Photo: xRez.com 257

 T H E E L CA

More Lunar Eclipse FA History: The pair’s choice of hardware gave them trouble, too. They
brought aluminum dowels, as used in the past by pioneers like Porter and Bridwell on the
less-steep areas of El Cap. But on the overhanging rock of Lunar Eclipse, the rivet hangers they
brought kept sliding off the dowels, leaving the leader unprotected. Barbella suggested they
tap the ends of the dowels upward, but on two occasions Schneider fell when the dowel he was
standing on rotated 180 degrees in the rock and spat him off! As of 2021, Lunar still has a bunch
of bad dowels, but hopefully not for long – please bring a bolt kit and repair them.
Back in 1982 when there were many A5 routes on El Cap, rating the route only A4 may have
been an unconscious mistake. The second ascent team added rivets to many of the harder
pitches, believing that something must have broken off, and not considering the immense
reach of Schneider, who is 6’4” with a positive ape index. Schneider and Barbella named their
route after a total lunar eclipse, which they witnessed right before their climb.

258
P BR I D G E

More Lunar Eclipse FA History: The pair’s choice of hardware gave them trouble, too. They
brought aluminum dowels, as used in the past by pioneers like Porter and Bridwell on the
less-steep areas of El Cap. But on the overhanging rock of Lunar Eclipse, the rivet hangers they
brought kept sliding off the dowels, leaving the leader unprotected. Barbella suggested they
tap the ends of the dowels upward, but on two occasions Schneider fell when the dowel he was
standing on rotated 180 degrees in the rock and spat him off! As of 2021, Lunar still has a bunch
of bad dowels, but hopefully not for long – please bring a bolt kit and repair them.
Back in 1982 when there were many A5 routes on El Cap, rating the route only A4 may have
been an unconscious mistake. The second ascent team added rivets to many of the harder
pitches, believing that something must have broken off, and not considering the immense
reach of Schneider, who is 6’4” with a positive ape index. Schneider and Barbella named their
route after a total lunar eclipse, which they witnessed right before their climb.

Photo: Tom Evans 259

 Born Under a Bad Sign VI 5.9 A4+
FA: 1979 - Bill Price, Tim Washick

135’ 6 needs second bolt

A4
thin
Bad to B.U.B.S. finishes
the Bone on Eagle’s Way/
Waterfall Route
Kama-Kazi Cracks
climb out the apex cool 1’x4’ ledge
of the roof, to the
RURP seam on the 5.7 or A2
face above blades, beaks, 11
RURPs better bivy ledge
A4 (haul straight to pitch 12)
Devil’s Brow
10 135’
Plastic
Surgery upside-
Disaster down A1 Bad
needs second bolt 5 155’ Seed
Bad to Eagle’s
bad bat the Bone Way
5.9 hooks
A3
Bad LAs
Lunar Cats & Frogs Devil’s Seed
Eclipse Ledge Tower The Falcon’s
135’ nice bivy Plastic Nest
4 155’
Surgery A3 exp 14
Disaster
5.9 135’ 9
ow A2 pins
bad bolts - belay
takes 2”, 3” 5.9R
don’t haul to here var.
slab
10d A3 C2 hooks
or beaks or 5.10
A2

A3 5.7

heads
3 135’ 13 50’
135’ 8
A2
4” or 5.11
A3+ Waterfall
hooks NO! A1 145’ 12 Route
A2
or
13d
many
beaks
“C1 Beauty”
A4
“The Amazon” loose
A3
A4+ beaks

grassy & wet

11

2 135’

bathooks
Rack:
5.8 8 RURPs
beaks 40+ Beaks
Popcorn
8 KBs
7 145’ 12 LAs: 3 ea #1-#3
Flake
1 ea #4
A3 A4 beaks 2 ea #5
heads 10 Sawed Angles: 1 ea 1/2”-1 1/2”
brass nuts Nuts: 1 ea (brass very important)
light dark “Copper Eclipse” Hari-Kari Cracks Cams: 3 ea .3”-2”
rock rock Lunar
Eclipse 2 ea 3”,4”
10 Heads
1 115’
light Hooks (including extra large hook)
rock
A4+ ramp Rivet Hangers
dark A3 beaks, 15 ea 1/4” wingnuts (for threaded rivets)
Surgeon ramp beaks heads
General Bolt Kit

Zodiac
50’ 150’ Eagle’s Way
200’

260 | El Capitan
 155’
14

A2

13 55’
A2
145’ 12
A2
C1 Beauty
A4
Devil’s Brow 11
10 135’
A3 Eagles Way
135’ 9

A3

8 135’

A4+
Popcorn Flake
7 145’

Hari-Kari Cracks A4+

135’ 6

A4
Kama-Kazi Cracks

155’ 5 Devil’s Tower

5.9

135’ 4
Cats and Frogs
Ledge A3
135’ 3
“The Amazon” (A3+)

135’ 2

“Copper Eclipse” (A3)

1 115’
A3

Photo: xRez.com 261

 Plastic Surgery Disaster VI 5.8 A5 The
FA: June 1991 - Eric Kohl Falcon’s
Nest
13

6 165’

A3 or
A3 5.10

2016 Rack: Bad to

The Bone
“Trust Your 2 RURPs bad belay bolts 12 et al.
Mechanic” A4
20 Beaks
2-3 KBs 5.8

hooks A4+ 8 LAs

B.U.B.S. 4 Angles: 1 ea 1/2”, 5/8”
1 ea 3/4”, 1”(sawed)
5 165’
Nuts hooks
Ball Nuts: 1 ea
Devil’s A3+
Tower Cams: 3 ea .3”-2”, 2ea 3”, 4”
5.8
Bad
20 Heads
Seed Hooks: all pointed A4
Keyhole Hangers 11
B.U.B.S.
65 m rope
A3
**42 holes
A3
A4
4
hooks

4th
Devil’s Brow
10 165’

A1+ A2+
3 165+’
Lunar A1+
Eclipse
A2+ loose

“Scatterbrain” A5
hooks A2
9 120’
stay
Surgeon left
General
A2

A2+

A3 8

A4+
hooks Lunar
Eclipse

hooks
1 165’ Belay takes 4”
Girdle Girdle A4
Traverse Traverse

7 165’
A4
Free hooks
Zodiac A5
Bad “Suicidal Failure”
Seed

A3+

A3

Eagle’s Way 6
100’
Zodiac
300’

262 | El Capitan
 13

A3
12

A4
11

A4 Devil’s Brow
10 165’
A2+
Lunar Eclipse
120’ 9
A2

Lunar Eclipse A4
7 165’
“Suicidal
Failure” A5

165’ 6
“Trust Your A4+
Mechanic”
5 165’
Devil’s Tower

3 165’
“Scatterbrain” (A5)

A4+
1 165’

A4

Photo: xRez.com 263

 5

The Prophet VI 5.13d

FA: October 2010 - Leo Houlding, Jason Pickles
The
Falcon’s
“The Screamer”
Nest
13b R 170’ 13
or A4 hooks

A2 pins
5.10+ 5.9R
move or
A1
Plastic slab
Surgery
Disaster 11b
cave
“The Final
150’ Defense”
4

5.8
13b
13a R 12 50’
or A3+
A3+ or 12b
4” or A2
loose 5.11
130’ 11 Waterfall
“The Marginal “Da Vinci Code” Route et al.
Belay- Not Gay” 13d R
or A2

C1 Beauty
130’ hooks
A3 or
12a/b
Rack: The Secret
5.8 13a
V8 start
Nuts: 2 ea micro, regular Passage
Cams: 2 ea .3”-4” 12c R 10 50’

2 Wire rivet hangers cool 1’x4’

loose 5.7 ledge
20 Long quickdraws 9
3’x2’ 3 B.U.B.S. The Prophet,
ledge
Many slings Eagle’s Way
Devil’s Brow
12b
5.9+ or A3+
“The Devil’s loose
Reach-Around 13a R
Variation”
stops at
alternate belay 13c R Eagle’s
11d X 8
“The Devil’s Dyno” Way
no pro

grass

“The Guillotine”
easy 13b R 100’

200’ 2

12c
or A1

7
4th
12b
6 A3 hooks
The Secret
Passage
A4

5.9
“Grit-esque
Expando” Bad to
12b R The Bone
or A2 Eagle’s
Way
190’ 1
“The Dreamer”
13b R
5.7 hands or A4
& fist

Girdle
Traverse

5
12b R or A2 Girdle
“The Train Traverse
Wreck”
This improbable line ascends some of the most radically overhanging
dark rock terrain on El Capitan, often over aid pitches rated A4. Leo and Jason
light worked on their route for 10 years before sending, including multiple
5.4 rock
ground-up attempts that resulted in serious injury.
Zodiac 400’

264 | El Capitan
 13 170’

“The Final Defense” (13b)

12 50’
12b or A2
130’ 11

C1 Beauty (13d R)
The Secret Passage 10 50’

9
5.7

8
“The Devil’s Dyno” (13c R)

“The Gullotine” (13b R)

12c
6

13b R or A4
“The Dreamer”
5

13b R or A4
“The Screamer”

13a R or A3+

11d X
2 200’

5.9 The Secret Passage

“Grit - esque Expando”
12b R or A2 1 190’

5.7

5.12 R or A2 “The Train Wreck”

Photo: xRez.com 265

 Eagle’s Way VI 5.8 A3 or 5.13c R (The Secret Passage)
FA: June 1976 - Mark Chapman, Jim Orey

The Falcon’s Nest

150’

170’
16
10 90’

A2 beaks
A3 5.9R
var.
P some missing
A1 slab bolts/hangers
9 C2 hooks
The Falcon
Secret 110’
or 5.10
Dihedral
Passage Eagle’s Way finishes
.5-4” on Waterfall Route
C2 13a 5.7
awk var.
no
14
15 50’
90’ 8
A2 loose
4” 4” or 5.11
Waterfall
5.11 or C2+ or 130’ 14 Route et al.
A2
C2
link 7 & 8 or
w. 60m rope loose 13d
7 90’ 170’ haul
13c to 5
“C1 Beauty”
var. The Secret
The Passage finishes
Seagull A2 on Bad to the Bone

The
A2+ Secret
Passage 13 150’
cool 1’x4’ ledge
On the
115’ 6 P Waterfront 5.7 or A2
B.U.B.S. 100’
5”
A3 or P
5.12 Eagle’s Way,
Devil’s Brow The Prophet
High Plains A2+
Dripper loose
5 180’ sla The pins,
220’ haul b Prophet A3 heads
to 3
12 100’
On the Waterfront

“Peach Fuzz” 5.7 fun

5.8 A3
5.10 R C2 best way
var.
fixed
.5-1.5” junk
100’
4 80’ 11

leave haulbags here 5.2 link 4 & 5 w.

Rack: C1

190’ 3
easy simulclimbing 1 RURPs 12c
A3
fixed Eagle’s
9 Beaks: 3 ea #1-#3 RURPs Way
5.5
2 KBs: 1 ea #5, #6 The Secret 10
Passage
3 LAs: 1 ea #2 - #4
180’ haul from 1
4 Sawed Angles: 1 ea 1/2”-1”
(recommended) 10a .5-4”
or Nuts: 2 ea micro, 1 ea regular
C2
Cams: 3 ea .3”-4”
5.11 80’ 2
1 ea 5”
or A2 6 Heads: 2 ea #2-#4
Hooks: 2 ea
10 Rivet/Keyhole Hangers
190’ 1
5-6 1/4” Wingnuts (for putting on hangerless bolts)
2 ea 3/8” Wingnuts

5.7 hands
& fist
Girdle
Traverse

Bad To slick 5.8

The Bone
5.12 R or
"We believed a drilled hole was a drilled hole, whether it came in the
A2 form of a bolt, drilled hook, or chiseled copperhead"
Girdle - Mark Chapman
dark rock Traverse
light
5.4 rock
Zodiac 400’

266 | El Capitan
 Eagles Way is the classic moderate of the
far right side of the Southeast Face. About
the same difficulty of Zodiac, but with
more of an adventurous and at times
looser feel, Eagles Way is the perfect
15 170’
170 choice if you’ve climbed Zodiac and
Eagles Way Tangerine Trip but are not yet interested in
A2 or 5.10
The Prophet stepping up to the A4 game.
50’
14
Plan: Most parties fix three pitches and
A2 or 5.11
The Secret Passage 130’ 13 then spend 3 - 4 nights on the wall.
C2 or 13d
C1 Beauty The Elements/Retreat: Eagles Way gets
12150’ sun from mid-morning to late afternoon.
100’ This route gets hit by substantial runoff, so
The Prophet can be unclimbable in winter and spring,
A3 and is not a good choice if storms are
11 80’ Eagles forecast. To retreat, rappel the route.
Way
A3 FA History: Mark Chapman and Jim Orey
10 90’
made the first ascent over six days in 1976.
Chapman had attempted the route the
A3
year before, but was forced to bail because
9 110’ of runoff from nearby Horsetail Fall.
The Falcon Dihedral (13a or C2) “Friends (cams) weren’t around yet, so the
expanding cracks required delicate and at
90’ 8 times difficult nailing. Today, with modern
5.11 or C2+
7 90’
cams, most of those pitches are probably
The Seagull C1,” recalls Chapman. (He’s right!)
13c
1 A2+
“The chiseling of copperheads was
115’ 6
popular at that time, but I didn’t care for
5.12 or A3 the practice. I’m sure we could have
180’ 5
reduced the number of bolts by chiseling
and made the route somewhat harder in
5.7 the process, but what was the point?....We
Eagles believed a drilled hole was a drilled hole.”
Way - Mark Chapman
4 100’
The Secret Passage
5.2
190’ 3

10a or C2
2 80’

5.11or A2
190’ 1

5.7

5.12 R or C2

Photo: xRez.com 267

 The Secret Passage VI 5.13c (5.12 R)
FFA: October 2006 - Nico Favresse, Sean Villanueva

The Falcon’s Nest

16 150’
9 90’

“The Eagle’s C2
Bone Trap” A2 pins
5.12+ A1 5.9R
5.10+ var.
8
Falcon move
110’ slab
Dihedral
.5-4” 5.10
cave
150’ 15
13a
5.7
90’ 7

4” “The Da Vinci Code” 14 50’

5.11 5.11
5.11 4”
Waterfall
130’ Route et al.
loose
6 90’ 170’ haul 14 13d
to 4
B.T.T.B
The 13c aid line “C1 Beauty”
Seagull 60’ 13

13a
70’
5.12 R/X 13a 12
P P The
On the Secret 150’
115’ 5 P Waterfront The Secret Passage 12c R
4.5” Passage finishes cool 1’x4’ ledge
P on Bad to the Bone 5.7 or A2
5.12R 100’ 11
B.U.B.S.
High Plains Eagle’s Way,
Dripper Devil’s Brow The Prophet
4 240’ sla
220’ haul b
to 3 The pins,
Prophet heads
13c
100’
“Peach Fuzz” 5.7 var.
“Gullotine
5.10 R Parano”
5.11R
A3
100’ Rack: 100’ 10

.5-1.5”
fixed
junk
Slider nuts “The Flying
5.2 Pigeon” 80’
leave haulbags here Nuts: micros to medium
190’ 3 Eagles Way Bad to the fixed
Cams: 3 ea tiny cams Bone RURPs A3
5.5 12c
2 ea .5”-4”
Eagle’s
1 ea 5” (optional) Way
The Secret 9
180’ haul from 1 Passage
(recommended) 10a .5-4”
Note: This route relies on fixed gear.
Bring pitons in case some fixed pieces
are missing.
80’ 2
5.11

190’ 1

5.7 hands
& fist
Girdle
Traverse

Bad To
The Bone
5.12 R
Girdle
dark rock Traverse
light
rock
Zodiac 400’

268 | El Capitan
 FFA History: Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva
made the first free ascent over five days in 2008.
They freed the route ground up, but it took a few
tries. On their first attempt, they were stymied by
a short blank section. Later, they did some day
The Secret Passage 16 150’ missions to practice the lower cruxes.
Nico, a bigwall free climbing veteran by this
5.10+ point, led the charge looking for maximum
adventure and risk. “I knew we could try our best
150’ 15
Eagles Way to climb it in good style: no fixing, no jugging, no
“The Da Vinci Code” (5.11) rappelling, just finding the way up from the
The Prophet
14
ground, and bringing the mandolin and flute for
13a 13 12 some El Cap Freestyle Jamming.”
100’ 11 12c R This style of bigwall free climbing is difficult in
The Prophet Yosemite, because the old aid routes being freed
Eagles were climbed with pitons, which are hard to place
“Gullotine Parano” (13c)
100’ 10 Way while free climbing. This route didn’t disappoint.
Nico recalled, “One pitch is protected with hooks
“The Flying Pigeon” (12c) and fixed copperheads, and a few others have
10 90’ hard cruxes way past the last piece of pro; there
“The Bone Trap” (5.12+) are a few scary sections with loose rock features
9 110’ we couldn't avoid.”
The Falcon Dihedral (13a) Honestly one of the coolest ‘walking down’
90’ 8
experiences I’ve had on the summit of El Cap was
5.11 topping out Lost World in a push and walking up
7 90’ on these two, yodeling away at the top of the Cap
The Seagull - pure musical bliss-out. I’m like, ‘So which route?’
13c
and they beamed, ‘We freed it!’ And I’m like,
115’ 6
damn, they look like they just hiked up here for a
5.12 summit jam session. Definitely check out these
guys’ Youtube videos - they’re wildmen!
230’
5.7
“Peach Fuzz” (10d) Eagles
Way
100’
The Secret Passage
5.2
190’ 3

10a
2 80’
5.11
190’ 1

5.7

5.12 R

Photo: xRez.com 269

 NJTurnpike
N.A. Calevaras etal.
P.O. Mescalito
Wall Wall Ledge
25 OK bivy 34 145’
29 32
for 2-3 C2+or14a
10a
ow C2 13d
belaytakes rap 5.7 Tempest, South
P.O. .3-.75” 33 Space Seas
Seaof 29
Wall 28 80’ A4 C2+
Dreams tricky
hooks The Molar or13a
24
Traverse

270 | El Capitan
23
A.O. 1’ x 8’
5.7 Wall 31 A3
Continental 5.5 ledge WOEML
Shelf A4-
8” 5.9 26 5.7 22 7” “Rubber C2
or C1 140’ Band Man”
scary 5.9
27 rap stance NJTurnpike orC1 30
etal.
C1
Seaof Easy Mescalito
A3+ Space “Great
Dreams Street White Shark”
OK bivy
for 2-3 N.A. Atlantis South Seas,
Wall Shortest
Straw Zodiac 4.5” “BayofPigs” Tempest
13 12 Black 160’haulfrom
160’ A2+
Rap 5.5” 21 190’ ElCapTree
Zenyatta Tower
Mondata 1’-10’ledge
C2+ 5.8, C1
penji off .3-1” Iron
1998 Rack:
head 11 160’ Hawk 2 Beaks
C2 or 5.8 5 KBs
5.8 20’
hands inverted roof A2+ 6 LAs
Dead End camhook cool
loose Ledge 4 Angles: 2 ea 1/2”, 5/8”
5.6
A4 2 Sawed Angles: 1 ea 3/4”, 1”
14 1’ x 8’ ledge Nuts: 2 ea
KAOS Free
(belay 2) rap 5.8 or Zodiac El Cap Cams: 3-4 ea .4“-1.5”
Zenyatta Shortest
Straw C1 80’ 20 Tree
Mondata .4-2” 2-3 ea 2”-4”
5.8 1-2 ea 5”
190’rap
LostinAmerica, 120’ 19 1 ea 7”
Ned’sExcellentAdv.
10 Heads: 5 ea #1-#4
15 10 140’ 5.8 Hooks: 2 ea
155’ penji/rap loose
Clip gear on Highway Native Scorched Camhooks
11d To Hell Earth Sticky
descent or C1 Son Rice 10 Rivet Hangers
McNamara unlocked this previously attempted 120’
.4-2.5” 190’to 18 17 140’
Big route by climbing the route in sections, descending 5.6 ground TangerineTrip,
FA: August 1998 - Mark Melvin, Chris McNamara

Country 4th 5.7 Aurora

the first night from the El Cap Tree, and on the third 9 class
Surgeon
night from Mammoth Terrace. 3’ x 4’ ledge General Lunar ramp
Eclipse
El Capitan Girdle Traverse VI 5.10 A4

A2 8 16
140’ from Zodiac
16 5.9
ground P.S.D. Bad to orC1
The Bone
Lostin 5.9
America 7 Eagle’s
Way 2
3rd
Waterfall
Lunar Route
Eclipse Dark East
Plastic 5.9+ 3 Star Butt.
Surgery 5.5
Disaster 6 rotten
1 3rd
5.8 R
5.7
5 rust move
3rd 4 streaks
 Move belay 600’ Lurking Fear
73 across 3rd class ledges 5.9 bushes
to belay 73 72 Excalibur
140’ 60 70
Bermuda 71
El Cap Dunes cave
greatbivy Spire
Thanksgiving Ledge 67 Salathé
for4 5.7 The
chimney Nose Lurking 69 68
120’ 43 4th belly crawl
Fear 66 180’
10a poor bivy CAMP
for 2 N.N. A3+
The Alcove IV Aquarian 13a 12b
good bivy for 4 Land Dihedral or A2
5.7 Wall Route or
10a ow rap .75-3” C2
6.5” or C1 44 10d Excalibur 100’
80’ 45
59 150’ Muir 10c or
or 42 195’
P C1 11c
200’ 13c Shield P C1 5.7
or C1+ .3-2.5” or C2
11a
ow bivy for 1 .4-2” 65
.5-4” 5.7 Crossroads 10d A0
Monster 10d Fist bivy for 2 or 5.12
Crack or C1
180’ rap “Lynn Hill
Triple
Direct Traverse”
110’ belay takes
58 90’
300’ .3-1.25”
of 46 10b
11d The 5.7 160’ 65 Tribal
Ear super Sous le Toit or
chimney Rite
fun poor bivy C1
1-6.5” 5.3 110’ rap for 1 10b 1” loose 40 130’
or C1 C2 5.8 lb King
steeper or wild! Swing
10d or C1 10d
wall 47 Boot
57 120’ No Flake
follow gully, 41 10c hands
then move left to arête 5.8lb Grey Ledges or C1
.5-2” bivy for 2 5.7
Bermuda 230’ flakes
10c 74 64 160’
Dunes 190’ rap 10c
or 10a The or C1 C1+ camhook
C1 hands Block ok bivy for 2
180’ 5.8 lb
56 105’ 4.5"
P 140’ Eagle
P rope drag 110’ 39
P Ledge
10c
5.6 or C2
.5-3” 10a
or The
C1 48 5.8 New
Sewer Texas chimney
73 Dawn
55 115’ bivy for 1 63
23 150’ Flake
5.7
175’ rap 13a var.
Teflon C1 Boulder
5.7 Problem 5.9 El Cap Tower
chimney Corner
38 great bivy
54 140’ 12a for 4+
12d or
49 C1 WOEML
5.7
Girdle Traverse (continued)

12” Magic .5-3”

5.8 Mushroom Pharaoh Ledge 37 165’
rap The 34 145’
squeeze sloping
10” P 80’ Nose
5.9R P 50 85’ 22
62
Hollow 53 .75-2”
Flake 7” Heart 60m 10a ow
4th Route rap 5.5
to or C1
Son good bivy Spire A2+
of for 4+ 10d many
12a 52 150’ or C1 penjis
Lung Ledge Heart Mammoth large cams
61 130’ off heads
good bivy for 3 10b Terraces
.75-2” or 5.9
C1 squeeze
11d Heart Ledges 35
downclimb 11c or C1 36
Bermuda 51
Dunes or 1-2.5” loose
C1 blocks
bivy for 5 11c
Magic tight hands
Muir Mushroom or C1
60 5.9
or C1
El Cap 1-4.5”
Heart Rap
Route Spire
amazing bivy
for many
Reticent
Lay Lady New

El Capitan | 271
Ledge Dawn
 East Buttress IV 5.10b
FA: June 1953 - Allen Steck, Willi Unsoeld, Bill Long, Will Siri
FFA: July 1964 - Frank Sacherer, Wally Reed

East Buttress is one of the more classic multi-pitch

trad routes in the Valley. Known for having a handful
of superb pitches and a bit of low-angled 135’ 7
The
wandering. This is a Grade IV route more because of
Zodiac
the long approach and descent, and the sometimes
p  5.13d
tricky route-finding and crowds you have to deal with. 5.9 p 5.9+
Fast parties regularly climb it in half a day. East better way ow
Buttress is popular, so start hiking in the dark, East
or if you’re sure you can climb quickly, consider
65’ 6 p
p Buttress
starting midday to avoid other parties. For a bigger
 5.10b
challenge, approach via the four-pitch Moratorium. 5.8

Approach: 5 130’

40 - 60 Minutes
5.8
Park at the Zodiac Pullout, the large dirt p roof
Moratorium
pullout 500 feet before the El Cap Meadow
on Northside Drive. Walk into a clearing in  5.11b
5.7
Zodiac
front of the parking. Walk right around a large Talus
boulder, picking up a faint trail that leads up 4 150’
and right through the woods for just a
hundred feet to the drainage that becomes 5.8 Parking
the Zodiac talus field. Follow a cairned path,
more or less straight up to the wall.
5.7
Walk along the wall to the right,
up, down and around a grassy terrace,
until you reach the base of the route.
70’
11
belay at base 200’ belay takes
of gully 3 2-3”
.
Warning: 5.6 loose
4th Significant rockfalls in 2017
class
have made accessing this climb
120’ dangerous, as you have to walk
directly beneath a very active
Descent: rockfall area to reach
belay
takes 2-3”
50 - 90 Minutes 10 150’
the base of the route.
The East Ledges Descent, from where the p
5.6 5.7 loose
East Buttress comes into it, is short and arête p
fast. There are four rappels, which usually
have fixed ropes, but which will take longer 2 100’ p
if the ropes are missing. Study the East
Ledges Descent spread on pages 60-61. NO 5.7

5.6
130’ 9 pp
5.9
fingers in groove

10b
130’ face
1
5.8 R
5.9
stem

Rack: 135’ 8
p
Nuts: 1 ea
5.8
Cams: 1 ea .3”-.5” wide
2 ea .75”-3” 100’
Long slings
4th To Slab 5.5
class Happy
Pinnacle

The Moratorium  11a p

- add four more pitches to the
East Buttress!
5.5
wild!
7

272 | El Capitan
Photo: Andrew Burr
Camp 4 Wall

1,3,5
2 4

3
2

1
5

2,3 4

1) Camp 4 Terror*
2) Good Ol’ Boy
3) Camp 4 Terrorist
4) Comedy of Terrors
5) Horseshoes and Hand Grenades
274 Photo: Derek Ferguson
Good Ol’ Boy, pitch 7, (p. 210). Photo: Erik Sloan
 Good Ol’ Boy V 5.8 A2+
FA: May 2012 - Richie Copeland, Erik Sloan
Richie Copeland was a prolific climber in the 2000s,
12 100’
climbing El Cap a couple dozen times. He is most
famous for establishing the “El Cap Swing” by leading
the first pitch of South Seas and the second
130’
6 5.7 pitch of Atlantis. Rich went on to attempt
portaledge
required the second ascent of Atlantis in 2010, but had to
A2 dirty retreat when a faulty FA topo caused him to get off
Tower
to the 99% route where he broke his ankle in a short fall (doh!).
5.6 100’ 11

1 mile to
the top of
Yosemite Falls Trail
C2
creek
5.6
wet in 5.7
spring grass
190’ 5
3” cliffs
C1 130’ 10

5.9 C2
splitter loose

5.8 120’ 14
5.10 A2
or grass beak
A1 .75-1.5”

5.7
Note: feel free 5.8
5.6 RA to add bolts
190’ MP MP
5.9 to this section.
30’ 4 RA It is the better
grassy topout. 5.8 R A2+
beaks

bivy for 2
130’
160’ 5.8 13
haul
4”
5.11 or C2 Rack: 9 100’ 180’ haul
5.7
7 Beaks: 1 ea #1 stance
leave
3” haulbags 2 ea #2
here C1
C1 4 ea #3 5.7
few
3
30’ 3 125’ 7 LAs: 1 ea #1-3 .3-2”
Camp 4 el
Terror rapp 2 ea #4, #5 A1 angles 5.3
5.6 leave
4” 2 Angles: 1 ea 1/2”, 5/8” haulbags
here
C1
Nuts: 1 ea A2 (short)
Cams: 2-3 ea .3-3” 100’ 12

2 ea 4” 150’ 8
The 15’x15’
beaks 1 ea 5” Chicken grassy ledge
A2+ .3-3” Wing ledge
grassy Offset cams: 2ea system
C1 easier Hooks: 1 ea A1
way arrows
angles
2 115’

grassy
ledge 5.10 or C1
A2+
5.10 or A2
.3-4”
5.6
Camp 4
Terrorist
110’ 7
A1
Approach:
“The From the bathrooms in the middle of
5.9 Good
Camp 4 Balcony Life” Camp 4, walk uphill past the Columbia
180’ 1 bivy for 2 A1 Boulder, crossing the Valley Loop trail
on a faint path that leads 250’ to the
Camp 4 Wall gully. Follow the gully to
Apple 5.7 beaks the base. 30-50 minutes
Seeds fun “The
Scorpion”
.5-3.5” 12c 5.7 Descent:
5.8
6 Hike up and right (east) for .25 miles
through a manzanita jungle to a seasonal
creek and more open terrain. Continue up
(east) toward Yose Falls till you are on
massive 200’ to the cliffs above the falls. Zigzag down to
pine tree falls
the Falls Trail and descend to Camp 4.
3-5 hours

276 | Camp 4 Wall

 100’ 12
A2
11

11 100’
5.7
130’ 10
A2
9 100’

A2
The 8 150’
Chicken
Wing A2+
110’ 7

“The Good Life” A1 Tower To

130’ 6
The 99%

C2
5 190’

5.10 or A1

Bivy 4 190’
Ledge

5.11 or C2

3
3 125’

A2+

115’ 2
5.10 or A2
Camp 4
180’ 1 Balcony
5.8

Photo: Derek Ferguson 277

Yosemite Falls Wall
Yosemite Creek
trail to Hwy 120 Lost
Arrow

Min
Ne
N
Ah
Falls
Trail Upper
Yosemite Geek
Fall Tower
Lost Arrow Lost Arrow Yosemite
Chimney Direct Point
Misty Buttress
Wall

Wheel of
Torture
Fern Ledge

200 yards sandy

switchbacks through
manzanita and scrub oak
sweet bivy

300 yards of faint trail through trees.

Trend up and slightly left following cairns.

Middle
Earth cliff band
20-30' 20'
dead 3rd class
tree slabs
20' of
4th class cliffs and slabs above

leave
forest Sunnyside Bench steep dirt/sand slope in trees
Sweet swimming exposed
pools during low water step-across
exposed!
200’
Get water here when steep dirt
the river is low.
drop 150 yards
off Sunnyside Bench up drainage
Lower Regular Route 400’ tall
5.4 steep slabs and cliffs
Yosemite Fall talus
field
forest

bridge many
stables buildings

Search gas
to Yosemite and
Lodge pump
Rescue

Indian Visitor
Museum Center
Approach
From the NPS service compound north of the Visitor Center, walk uphill past the stables to the
Valley Loop Trail. Head east for ~100’ to the base of the open talus field. Walk up the left side of
the talus until it meets a blocky cliff. Go up and left on 3rd class until you gain a broad vegetated
ledge called Sunnyside Bench. Follow a faint trail along this ledge until you are overlooking Lower
Yosemite Falls. From here, climb up and right along a 3rd class wooded ramp. At the end of the
ramp climb up hummocky, slabby 3rd class until you gain a manzanita forest. Hike up sandy
switchbacks through the manzanita, following cairns and aiming for Lost Arrow. The trail ends at
the base of the wall below Lost Arrow Direct.

Descent
For Lost Arrow Direct: a) descend a rappel route that starts in The Notch, b) climb from the notch
to the rim via tricky 5.10 A2 (not recommended) c) exit via a Tyrolean Traverse to the rim, and walk
down the Yosemite Falls Trail.

To tyrolean, you will have to have left a rope from the Rim to the Notch before your climb - or meet
up with folks just doing the Tip.

For all other routes: walk down the Yosemite Falls Trail.
278 | Yosemite Falls Wall
Eric Bissell on Lost Arrow Direct, 5.8 C2+ or 5.12c A0 (p.290). Photo: Drew Smith
 1) Sprayfest* 7) Waterfall Wall
2) ...Injustice for All 8) Via Sin Aqua
3) It’s So Awful* 9) Reign in Blood*
4) Wheel of Torture 10) Witching Hour*
5) Via Aqua* 11) Via Sin Liquor
6) World of Pain 12) Miscreant Wall
14,15,1

10 - 12 1

4,5 6 7,9

12

4,5
1-3,8

6
11

10
8 4 9

1
8

3
4
280 Photo: xRez.com 6
 28 29,31, 33
32
24,26, 34
27,30
25
21,22
13,16,
17
15,17 19

17 17
27
28
26

30
17
34

30
29
16
12

25

24

30 31
13

23
15 22

19

21

20
30,31

29 32
18 21 22 27
26 28
23-25

15 18-20 33
13) Electric Ocean 24) Lost Arrow Chimney
14) Escape from Tora Bora* 25) Dante’s Inferno
15) Misty Wall 26) Lost Arrow Direct
16) Summerland 27) Satanic Ritual Abuse
17) L’appât 28) Drain Bamage
18) Misty Wall Alt. Start 29) Max Ex*
19) Reckless Abandon 30) Yosemite Pointless
20) Freestone 31) Rainbow
21) Hurricane Jingus 32) Czech Route
22) Aqua Vulva 33) Yosemite Point Buttress
23) Geek Tower Right Side 34) Min-ne-ah Photo: Ryan Kirtland
281
 Misty Wall VI 5.9 A2 or 5.13a
FA: 1963 - Royal Robbins, Dick McCracken
FFA: May 2017 - Jon Cardwell, Sasha DiGuilian, Marcus Garcia
Miscreant
Wall

Misty Wall is the rare moderate route up a wall chock-full of desperates.

110’ 7 The proximity to the Falls makes it spectacular, but very noisy. In the spring there
5.11 “The slime
is a water source on the slabs in the middle of the approach if you go left toward
fingers pitch” Middle Earth. Otherwise it is best to carry water up, as it is a long way
down to the water from the base of the route. It’s weird because you are right
135’
6
Happy Ledge near a waterfall, but have to carry water up - when the water is low you can fill
sloping - use up at the pools on top of Lower Yosemite Fall, about halfway up the
portaledge
approach trail. 70’ 12
5.10 squeeze
6” chimney
5.8 11 110’
5.9+ R 10c burly chimney (wet in spring)
5.9 R L’Appat
awkward “The Mindfuck”
5 150’ 12a
stance
10d 10 85’
groove
“Croaking
Corner” 5.12
A2 Via Sin The
Liquor
175’ Shark’s Tooth
4
13a roof
Sheridan
Misty 90’ 9
(sweet, but 11a or A1
Via Sin
Liquor sloping) 10a
or 11a blocks
Electric
Ocean A1 A2 sloping ledge
Original steep hands
Route 8 70’
Yosemite (not recommended)
The
Falls Nipple
12a
Via
Sin
Liquor

110’ 3
7
ok bivy
for two
Free Rack:
Miscreant Nuts: 1 ea regular and micros
Wall
5.9 Cams: 3 ea .3”-1.5”
2 ea 2”, 3”
130’ 1 ea 4”, 5”, 6”
2

5.9 R 1” Approach:
75 - 90 minutes
Climb the Sunnyside Bench route (a couple moves of 5.5), which
easy
5th A2
starts just right of Lower Yosemite Fall, or walk up the descent
or route for Sunnyside Bench which starts behind the Visitor Center.
11a
hands / fingers
Reign in
Blood 180’ 1

5.10
or C2
5.8

Reckless
Abandon
5.10 or A2
dirty
10a R or
A2
Aid Rack:
Freestone 6 Beaks: 2ea
original
start 4 LAs: 1ea #1 - 4
Lost Arrow
5” Chimney 4 Sawed Angles: 1 ea 1/2”-1”
5.7
Nuts
Via Sin Aqua Cams: 3 ea .3-2.5”
Fern Ledge
1 ea 4-6”

Approach via Sunnyside Bench Trail

282 | Yosemite Falls Wall

 Lost Arrow
Tip

12 70’
5.8
110’ 11

5.12
85’ 10
The Shark’s Tooth (13a) L’Appat 5.13 a/b R
80’ 9
11a
90’ 8

The Nipple (12a) 7 110’

“Slime Pitch” (5.11)
135’ 6 Happy Ledge
5.10 squeeze
or C1
5.9 r var.
150’ 5

10d or C1

175’ 4
Lost Arrow
10a or A1

110’ 3

5.9

130’ 2

11a or A2 Freestone 5.11c

180’ 1
10a R or A2

Original
Start 5.10 A2

Fern Ledge

Photo: xRez.com 283

 Reckless Abandon VI 5.8 A4+
FA: February 1991 - Eric Kohl

10

12
165’
A1 5
Freestone
slab
A1 A4 “Big Air Dangler”

5.8
9 165’
5.8 4

A3 hooks

11
A4 A3
hooks
A1
thin 5.8 “Goon Rack
flake Crack”
death
block
knobs

A3+
A2
Rack:
10
15 Beaks: 5 ea #1-#3
3 165’ 6 KBs 8

10 LAs
Electric Ocean,
Summerland
A2+
10 Angles: 3 ea 1/2”, 5/8”
1 ea 3/4” - 1 1/2”
Cams: 3-4 ea .4-1”
A3+
3 ea 2.5-4”
1 ea 5-7”
50 Heads
A1
Hooks: all
7
. lasso
horn
**20 holes
2

A1
A4+

“Lucky Charms”
A2

A4
5.8
6 165’

A3+
5.8
Via loose
Sin A2
Liquor

Reign in A4
Blood exp. Freestone Lost Arrow
Chimney A3

5.8
5
Misty Wall,
Electric Ocean

Fern Ledge

Approach via Sunnyside Bench Trail

284 | Yosemite Falls Wall

 Yosemite Point

12
Lost Arrow
A3
11

A3+
10
“Big Air Dangler”
A4 9

A3 Goon Rack Crack

8

A3+
7

A4+ “Lucky Charms”

165’ 6

A3+

5 165’

5.8
A1
4

5.8
A4
3

A2+

5.8
A2
1

5.8
A4

Photo: xRez.com 285

 Lost Arrow Chimney IV 5.10a
FA: September, 1947 - John Salathé, Anton Nelson
FFA: 1964 - Chuck Pratt, Frank Sacherer
Rack:
Nuts: 1 ea
Cams: 2 ea .4”-2”
LA Chimney is old school, burly, wide climbing at its best - 1 ea 3”-5”
an incredible location and summit! This climb, established 1 ea 7” (optional)
The Notch without siege tactics, was the first serious big wall climb
10
in Yosemite, requiring 4 bivouacs. Nowadays folks spend a 5 100’
4th long day on the approach and route, usually meeting up with a
team to do the Tyrolean traverse off the Lost Arrow Tip.

5.9 5.9 Finish the route either by 8 double-rope rappels

ow thin
to the ground, exiting via a Tyrolean traverse,
or by climbing to the Rim from the Notch at 5.9
low-angle
Harding 5.10d or 5.10a A2. chimney
Hole
tunnel

140’ 12 The Rim

9 150’ 4 120’
140’ to rim
via Tyrolean
5.5 traverse

The Rim

5.9 lb

p
5.9
squeeze 1.5” piece
“The Safety 5.9
12b or C1 Valve” ow
bad rope drag
10a 5.9
flare alcove double
cracks pitches 3 & 4
1-1.5” link with a 60m rope
p
100’ 8 5.8
hook left

C2 11 5.8 p 3 80’
10a squeeze loose
rotten Horseman’s
Salathé Ledge 5.9 ow 5.10d
or 5.10a A2 A2 Ledge
3’ x 8’ plush or C1 4.5
The Notch 10d
10a fist ow
or C1 loose
3rd p
5.7
120’ 7 5.8 loose
no p
ram 5.9
10d The Notch 5.10 Dante’s
fingers 10 dirty Inferno
or C1
140’ 2
5.8
8 double rope The pitches climbing
raps to ground out from The Notch
many are runnout, loose,
chockstones 5.9
and dirty. It is much
better to rappel.

6 100’ Approach:
75 - 90 minutes
Climb the Sunnyside Bench route - a couple moves 1 140’
of 5.5 - which starts just right of Lower Yosemite
Fall, or walk up the descent route for Sunnyside Bench,
p 5.8
which starts on the Valley Loop Trial further east of
Lower Yosemite Fall. When the water is low, Geek Aqua
10a Tower Vulva
ow you can fill up your water at the pools at the top of Center
Route
Lower Yosemite Fall, which are just left of the
approach trail after you top out the Sunnyside
Bench. Continue up the Fern Ledge Trail, which is Lost
mostly steep walking with the occasional slab move Arrow
Direct
or sandy section, to the base of the wall.
Misty
5 Wall Freestone
3rd

Fern Ledge
200’ to
Lost Arrow Direct

Sunnyside Bench
approach
286 | Yosemite Falls Wall
Sasha DiGiulian at the crux of the Misty Wall,
5.13a, Yosemite Falls Wall. Photo: John Evans 287
 Dante’s Inferno VI 5.9 A3
FA: June 1989 - Eric Kohl

140’ 12

130’ 6

4th
slab

11 130’

Hunters 5.7
Point
A2

5.9+

C2
120’ 5
A2 groove
10 190’
Bermuda
Palms
A2 (stance) flake
dirty
A2

1997 Rack:
5 Beaks: 1 ea #1
130’ 4
2 ea #2, #3
A2
5 LAs: 1 ea #1-#5
4 Angles: 2 ea 1/2”, 5/8”
2 Sawed Angles: 1 ea 3/4”, 1”
C2
awkward
Nuts: 1 ea
Cams: 3 ea .3-2.5”
2 ea 4”
3 130’
C1 1-2 ea 7” (optional)
15 Heads: mostly #2, #3
5.7 9 125’ Hooks: 2 ea
Lost Camhooks
C2
Arrow Rivet Hangers
Chimney
A2 hooks
5.9 A3 hooks **80 holes

140’ 2

5.9

90’ 8

A2
1 140’

The Burnt
5.8 Cookie
7 130’
Geek Aqua C1
Tower Vulva
Center A2 loose
Route
Hurricane
Jingus Lost Arrow
Dante’s Inferno Direct
starts on Lost
Arrow Chimney

Freestone
3rd
A2

200’ to
50’ to Reckless Abandon Lost Arrow Direct
150’ to Fern Ledge
Sunnyside Bench 6
approach

288 | Yosemite Falls Wall

 Yosemite Point

140’ 12
4th
130’ 11 5.9+
Lost Arrow
A2
190’ 10 Dante’s Inferno is a moderate climb in a
Bermuda Palms stunning position. Less classic than nearby
A2 Lost Arrow Direct and Misty Wall, it’s the
easiest of the three on a cliff that has
9 125’ mostly harder routes. Eric Kohl’s first solo FA
climb in Yosemite, Dante’s Inferno is
A3 notable for its mellowness. Lol, after this
route Eric, who authored a whopping
8 90’
The Burnt Cookie forty-plus grade six first ascents on Yosemi-
A2
7 130’ te’s bigwalls, would barely establish a route
easier than VI 5.10 A4+!
A2
6 130’ Plan: Hike up gear, ropes, and empty water
bottles the first day and find out your
A2 Hunters Point options for getting water. Fix the first
5 120’ couple pitches - if the water is low it is best
A2 to get water at the top of lower Yosemite
Fall; if the water is high, you may be able to
fill up on the slab halfway up the approach,
130’ 4
or be able to fix a rope to a stream near the
base. Most teams spend two nights on the
C2 wall. Plan an extra night for the summit - so
magic up there!
130’ 3
5.9 Lost Arrow Chimney The Elements/Retreat: Calm all day in the
A2 sun, the wind howls on this route at night.
2 140’
Bring a rain fly for the portaledge for sure!
5.9 This is not a good early season route as the
waterfall is too loud, and you are too likely
to get hosed at night from the waterfall
140’ 1 shifting in the wind. To retreat, rappel the
route.
5.8

Photo: xRez.com 289

 Lost Arrow Spire Direct VI 5.8 C2+ or 5.12c A0 Yosemite Point

Approach: FA: June 1968 - Warren Harding, Pat Callis

90% FFA: September 2013 - Eric Bissell
140’ 15

75 - 90 minutes 140’ to rim 70m (235’)

via Tyrolean rappel to
Climb the Sunnyside Bench route - a couple moves traverse Notch
5.5
of 5.5 - which starts just right of Lower Yosemite
12b
Fall, or walk up the descent route for Sunnyside Bench, tree mantel Lost Arrow
which starts on the Valley Loop Trial further east of 150’ 7 belay Tip
Lower Yosemite Fall. When the water is low, The Tip is a popular
2.5-4” half-day climb, which
you can fill up your water at the pools at the top of is accessed via the
Lower Yosemite Fall, which are just left of the 11c/d or C1 1.5” piece Upper Yosemite Fall
Trail from Camp 4.
approach trail after you top out the Sunnyside
Bench. Continue up the Fern Ledge Trail, which is bad rope drag
p
mostly steep walking with the occasional slab move pillar
5.7 Climb the Tip with alcove
or sandy section, to the base of the wall. 1-1.5” two ropes.
3”- 5” Fix one rope below
11d or Yosemite Point
5.10 fingers and rappel to the
Rack: or C1
stellar
cracks!
hook left
Notch. Climb
the Tip using your
Nuts: 1 ea micro, 1 ea regular offsets C2 second rope -
100’ 6 p 14 the follower
Cams: 2-3 ea .3”-4” brings up the
1 ea 5” 2” Salathé Ledge fixed rope as
5.8 5.9 ow they follow.
3’ x 8’ plush or C1, 5”
1 ea 7” 5.7 thin hands
Offset Cams: 1 ea p Satanic 10a fist The Notch
3 Hooks: 1 ea talon, cliffhanger, grappling 5.10d Ritual or C1 loose
5.10c fingers free var. Abuse 3rd
2 Camhooks: narrow or C1 5.7
Second 5.6 wide
5-10 Rivet Hangers chimney (scary)
5.9 hand Terror
Small tent: very windy at night! and fist 80’ 10d
fingers 90’
13
140’ 5 or C1
bad bolts
C1 or 5.10 original route rap
4” route
12 100’ 5.7 loose
5.7 airy step left
rotten chimney
12b
free var.
great bivy
for 3
5.11b 5.9 lb
C2+ or 5.10+
or C1 loose

5.8 ABC
mantel Route p
110’ 11 p
hole
100’ 4
5.9
190’ to
First Error belay 2 C1 or p
great bivy 5.8 chimney 12c p
for 3 or C2
60’ 11 free belay
5.8
5.9 awk
or C1
5.8
squeeze p
C2 or loose
link pitches 3 100’ 12b A2
3 and 4 w/ 5.9 ow 10d
60m rope 7” ow
10b ow or belay takes 10 100’
5.8 and C1 .3-1” p p 5.8

5” loose
5.9+ ow or C1 no p
5.9 ow 3”-4” ram
The Notch 5.10
dirty
C2 camhooks
or 5.11d stemming
190’ 120’ 2
to ground The pitches climbing
haul from here 9 90’ out from The Notch
C1 or 5.7 are runout, loose,
C2 or 5.11 and funky. It is much
C2 or 11c Satanic better to rappel.
Ritual
Abuse
hooks & rivets
C1 or (likely 5.14)
12b/c Second
(some bathooks between rivets)
Error

70’ 1
great bivy
for 5
8 90’
“Free As Can Be” Rack:
5.5
Nuts: 1 ea micro
5.7
Cams: 2ea .3”-1.5”
5.5 rotten
Lost Arrow chimney 1 ea 2”- 5” (5” optional)
Chimney
5.5 Offset Cams: 1 ea
1 Hooks: 1 ea talon
5.9 hands
4 rivet hangers
Lost Arrow
Chimney
7

290 | Yosemite Falls Wall

 Lost Arrow Tip Yosemite Point

Lost Arrow Direct is a stunning 140’ 15 Tyrolean Traverse

beginner bigwall right next to 12b or C2
breathtaking Yosemite Falls. That said, Salathé
the steep and arduous approach, the 14 Ledge
howling wind at night, and the The
strenuous nature of the climbing Second
10d or C1 Notch
make it a better third or fourth wall - 90’ 13
Terror
after you have your systems dialed, 5.7
and can deal with the elements 100’ 12
better. This route is the same difficulty 5.10+ or C2+
as the Prow, but is more involved and 11110’
wandery.
12c or C2 Plan: Most parties fix two pitches, hiking up just their
10 100’
rack and ropes to suss out the approach trail, and to
scope the feasibility of getting water either at the top
11d or C2 of the Lower Fall, or on the slabs below the final part of
990’
the approach - in early season some parties report a
5.11 A0 or C2 spring up and right (east) of the start of the climb. Hike
Second
8 90’ up the rest of your kit, sleep at the base, and spend
Error
two or three nights on the wall - the final night either
5.9 on top if you have a rope rigged for the Tyrolean
7 150’ traverse, or in the Notch if you are planning to rappel.
All the bivies are plush, but tend to be super windy
11c/d or C1
and cold. It is best to bring a small tent to deal with the
A2+ windy night time conditions on this wall.

100’ 6 The Elements/Retreat: The Direct is in the sun most of

the day. This is not a steep route, so is a poor choice if
10d or C1
storms are forecast. To retreat, rappel the route.
140’ 5

FA History: Warren Harding and Pat Callis made the

12b or C1
first ascent over four and a half days in 1968 - Harding
First
Error
4 100’ had attempted the route the year before, but bailed
after just a couple pitches.
5.9or C2
3 100’ This was an early climb in the bigwall history of
10b ow or C2 Yosemite, and the FA team rejoiced that they would
2 120’ not need to spend a painful night in slings or
hammocks, as spacious bivy ledges abound. This is
5.12 or C2 also one of the routes where Harding used his
70’ 1
5.7
technique of drilling bathooks instead of rivets, to save
weight and time - most bathooks where replaced by
rivets in the early 2000s. The pair drilled only 55 holes,
of which 32 were bathooks. This climb could still use a
few anchor bolts where old pitons are in place.
“Several factors make the climb an especially
enjoyable one. First of all is the setting.....It is next to
impossible to put into words the pleasure of watching
the nearby Yosemite Falls during the endless belays. It
is comfortable climb ... finally, though often exhilarat-
ing, the climbing is never severe or horrifying.”
- Pat Callis

Photo: xRez.com
291
Arches Wall
Introduction:
The climbs of the Arches Wall are among the most classic and popular in the Valley.
Dreamy, splitter cracks abound. Sunny, and with short approaches, these climbs
have perfect midday temperatures during the winter but can be scorching in
the summer. Plan on spending extra time on these routes as climbing near other
parties and the descending (whether you rappel or walk off ) tend to take longer
than you expect.

Parking:
Park at Camp 6 Day Use Parking, or at the Curry Village Apple Orchard. Walk or take
the free valley shuttle bus to the Ahwahnee Hotel. While there is public parking at
the Ahwahnee, it is often full.

Wildlife:
In Yosemite Valley, bears are active both during
the day and at night. Before you climb, remove
all food and scented items from your car and put
them in the bear boxes to avoid a break in or a
ticket for improper food storage. Do not leave
food or scented items at the base of climbs, as
squirrels, raccoons, ravens, and occasionally
bears frequent the base areas. When wild
animals eat human food they quickly become
addicted to it, habituated to people, and reliant
upon scavenging. Bears that acquire a taste for
human food will often have to be euthanized
as they begin destroying property, looking for
more. Store your food properly and help keep
Yosemite’s wildlife wild!
Bear at the start of Zodiac. Photo: Karl Baba

North Dome Gully The 7 12

Descent Trail 6 10
Cobra 11

The 5
2
Jungle
4

3 Rappel
Route Pebble
Beach 1) Super Slide
Arches 8,9 2) Ahwahnee Buttress
2
Terrace 3) Serenity Crack &
Sons of Yesterday
4) The Royal Arches
Royal Arches 5) Super Visor
6) The Cobra
7) Arches Direct*
8) Arches Terrace
1
9) Arches Terrace Direct
10-12
10) Tsunami*
2 7 11) Bulging Puke
3 9
12) The Direct (W. Column)
4 8
Ahwahnee Hotel

292 | Arches Wall

Erik Sloan and Garrett Randall living it up
on the Arches. Photo: Samuel Crossley
 Royal Arches is arguably the best climb in Yosemite. Epically long, varied and Royal Arches ratings
mellow, this climb has it all. There are many variations on the lower pitches, which Royal Arches III/IV 5.7 AO or 5.10b 4 can be confusing. Yes,
makes passing parties easier. Most folks spend six to eight hours on the climb! FA: October 1936 - Ken Adam, Morgan Harris, W. Kenneth Davis the climb does have
So make sure to bring snacks, water, and headlamps. If appropriate for your manzanitta one short, 5.10b traverse.
jungle However, there is a fixed
team, simul-climbing can speed things up considerably, with most parties who Grade three (III) means that for confident leaders rope at this spot,
simul-climb spending two and a half to four hours en route. Definitely double your this is a half day climb. That said, the circuitous (easy walking
on sandy hillside) attached to two bolts
rope if you are simul-climbing, meaning have one leader tie into both ends and nature of the climbing, and the long descent and most folks just
then the follower just ties in with a knot at the midway point in the rope - (even rappeling takes a couple/few hours) grab the rope and walk across
otherwise you will be too far apart to hear each other due to the ledgy terrain, contributes to this being a full day, or 4 70’ the traverse, or climb
and the leader will have awful rope drag. I like to use a 8mm x 70m rope for grade four (IV) climb, for most parties who do not it at 5.7 A0 (A0 means
simul-climbing, which is also all you want for the rappel route. climb multi-pitch trad in Yosemite regularly. using aid to pull on equepment

294 | Arches Wall

to get yourself up the mountain)
Now the descent route takes two to four hours also, so really plan for a long day.
Which descent is best? To rappel or to walk off? There are times, and teams, for we5.4
t
each. Love to hike and have plenty of daylight left? Go for the walk off, which has 5.7 glory hands
sprinin
the bonus that you climb over to a spring just after the end of the route, so you g
70’ 3
will be hydrated! Super tired, out of hiking shape, or someone in the team has
had leg injuries or issues? Go for the rappel route for sure. It takes a long time Royal Arches
(sixteen rappels with one rope!), but puts you right back at the base, which is a Rappell Route 5.7 move
minute or two from your car, the bathrooms, and the Ahwahnee Bar. If the 5.3 Rack:
Arches starts feeling too easy, combine it with North Dome for a full Grade IV Nuts: 1 ea
climbing day!
Cams: 1-2ea .3”-4”
Many long slings
60’
Best warmups for Royal Arches: dead
tree
Sunnyside Bench, 5.5: Good for dealing with scrambly terrain, and it being hard to lking
hear or see the leader. Also good for learning if you like long walk offs ;) wa
120’
2
Swan Slab Gully, 5.6: Classic multi-pitch. Royal Arches is just like this, but fifteen
hundred feet longer!
After Six, 5.7: Closest thing to a mini-Arches. Same short approach and awesome,
varied climbing. If you can climb After Six in less than three hours you can do the 5.6 fingers
Arches comfortably in six to eight hours. Great warm up because you will have to 5.5 5.6 on the
deal with unique Royal Arches-like issues, like moving the belay on easy ledgy slick edge/arete
terrain, and potentially lots of folks. (best way!)
5.6
Simul - climb the start of the
route? Because of the walking
between each pitch, the
in g

k
first four are not good l
for simul-climbing,. Better wa 120’
to half your rope and
climb four, regular, pitches, 5.3
and then start simul-climbing 10a
on the fifth pitch.

80’
I like to double my 70m rope 1 5.2
for the first four pitches of move
RA, which are super short so 5.6 lb
10c
having the rope doubled makes
5.5 R
for way less rope pulling up at 5.11 5.9 lb
the end of the pitch, and makes
for faster rope coiling for the 5.6
section of walking that are chimney
between these pitches. On the
5.7 10d
fifth pitch I switch back to alternate
the regular length rope, with start - use
each person tied into an this when 5.6 chimney
end. the chimney
is wet

Serenity Crack,
Super Slide

Ahwahnee
il
hiker’s tra
 Royal Arches (continued)
North Dome Gully Descent

The Summit!

Most folks aid this The Jungle

section clipping into good bivy for 4 Sping
the fixed line and
holding onto it while 5.4
they walk across the Super careful!
slab. Visor The 5.7
Cobra
16 125’ 15
10 110’
Most parties who plan to
1-2” for belay rappel stop climbing here 5.5 slab
5.6 9
5.2
trough runs
10b or
with water in
A0 140’ 15
the spring
Rap
Route
10a/b 5.4
variation 5.7
slab 5.6
thin fingers
Rappel with one 60m rope
(it is best to rappel with one
5.9 rope, so your rope does not 5.6
5.5 5.6
chimney get stuck)
120’ 8

Pebble
Beach
5.6 Good bivy 14 150’
Slick for 4
runs with water in the
spring 5.6 flakes

no!
5.5 ow 5.5
130’
13

5.7
deep hands,
incredible!

5.0 - coil rope and move

belay 100’ right
7 165’
5.5 stem

5.6

120’ 5.6 hands

glory! 12 110’

5.7 stem

125’ 6

5.7 lb
160’
5.6 11 5.8
var.
nice ledge 5.6 115’ belay here if
less experienced,
5.6
cool so you can talk to
5.7 awesome the other climber(s)
125’ dead
5 tree 5.7 lb

easier Here the going get

5.6 (a little) steeper, so
these middle pitches 5.7
of the route are good face
for simul-climbing.

5.7 5.6 lb
4 fingers The Spear

5.6 fist
10
manzanitta nice ledge
jungle

Arches Wall | 295

 Royal Arches Rappel Route
Watch the ends of your rope!

The 9
Summit

5.4

large ramp
Rappel if you are not a strong,
cross - country hiker. The North
Dome Gully descent trail is awesome,
and fairly easy, but long, loose, and
10
has some route finding in spots. Rappeling
takes 2 - 3 hours, but you come out right
The Spring back at the base, a couple minutes from your
5.4 Jungle car.

15
stop climbing
16 11
here if you are
rappelling

It is best to rappel
with one (60 or 70m) rope,
to avoid getting your rope
70’ 1 stuck and being in a
stance situation where you
are on unfamiliar terrain.
With one - rope rapping,
there is no knot, so it is 12
very unlikely that your
rope will ever get stuck. large ledge skip rappeling from 12 to 13
easy w/easy walking and 5.3
70’ 2 walking downclimbing
stance

No 12

obvious ledge
95’ 3
dead tree - old rappel
blank slab route went here
but now tree is large dead tree
dead
13

70’ 4

14

80’ 5 your rope

gets wet in
winter / spring
easy walking
15
Royal Arches
2
ch1 Route
pit
to
6 85’ 15 If rappelling in the dark, it
is best to walk down to the
top of the first pitch and
80’ rappel down the first pitch
chimney from a large tree
rappel above (or down the alternate
115’
start pitch, if you have a
rappel 70m rope). If rappelling during
7 80’ the day, rappel down the alternate
start pitch (70m rope required),
or go to 15 as shown here,so
as not to interfere with other
16
climbers on route.

5.6
8 65’ chimney
pitch 1
alternate
start

90’ 9

296 | Arches Wall

 Bulging Puke V 5.8 A3 or 5.13 A0
FA: November 1981 - Bill Russell, Chris Friel

free
10 165’ route

good bivy
for 2 or 3 4 140’
Angel Ledge
C2
or 300 ‘ to 5.8 A2
5.11 North Dome
Gully Trail loose

.3-4”
Rack or
5.10
12 Beaks: 4 ea #2
8 ea #3
C1 or 5.10 5.8
3 LAs: 1 ea #2, #3, #4 5.2
Nuts: 1 ea regular & micro
Cams: 3 ea .3-3” 120’ 3
50’
9 165’ slab 2 ea 4” 12
loose
Nada Ledge 1 ea 5” 5.5
Hooks A3
5.6 beaks
5.7
massive
5.10
roof
or C2 5.9
4” 4’’ 5.6
wide
140’ 11 120’ 2
nice 5.3
ledge 5.12
5” wide
C1 or 5.10
140’ 8 A2 beak or 5.7 move
rock
Gag Reflex Roof rotten
5.8 or C1 stack

P P
A2 or 12a .3-3” P
wild 5.10
Tsunami
A2 LAs 10 or A1
or 5.11 beaks
Tiger Arch 12a
aka Bile Duct 7 90’ var. C2

A2 beaks 5.13 A0 150’ 1

“Bile Duct
Bypass”
.3-3”
C1
6 195’
Free Rack: 5.10
or A2
beauty 13 draws including long slings
110’ 6 Nuts:1 ea
TCUs:1 ea #0, #00 Harding
A3 Cams: 2 ea .3”-.4” Buttress
short 1 ea .5”
2 ea .75”-3”
Washington
1 ea 4” Column
C2
good bivy Direct
5.10 for 2
5 140’

250’
to ground
A2

3”-4”
12d A0
4th
5

5.8 60 m
5.10 rappel
C2 free to 3
route

4
W. Column

Use approach and descent beta for Washington Column

298 | Arches Wall

 t
cen
des

North
Royal Arches
Dome
Gully

50’ 12
5.10 A3
11 140’
Bulging Puke is one of the best easier aid routes that no one has heard of.
5.12
Beautiful climbing in a prime location, a short approach and a cool bivy ledge
5.8 A1
165’ 10 make this a top tier climb - the free route is dirty and loose, this is only a cool aid
C2 climb ;) Sure it’s a little dirtier than South Face or the Prow, and a little more of
or an adventure style of a climb, but it is very accessible and worthy. Bulging is
5.11
Nada harder than Skull Queen but easier than the Prow, maybe similar in difficulty to
9 165’
Ledge Southern Man but more classic than that route.
C1 or 5.10
Plan: Similar to the South Face of the Column routes, it is totally reasonable to
8 140’ hike in and climb to the pitch 4 ledge your first day, hopefully fixing a pitch or
Gag A2 or 12a two above. Most parties blast for the top the second day but with more time or
Reflex a portaledge, you could easily spend a few days on this route. Light and fast
Roof
7 90’5.13 A0 parties may want to just walk west, and rappel Royal Arches to descend. If you
A2
have a bit of kit, hiking down the North Dome Gully is also straightforward and
110’ 6 fairly quick.
free var.
super dirty The Elements/Retreat: Bulging gets sun from morning to late afternoon. It is
A3 low angled and receives runoff, so this is not a good choice in a storm. To
5
140’ 12d A0 retreat, rappel the route.
A2
5.10 FA History: Local climbing guide Bill Russell and Chris Friel made the first
Angel ascent in November 1981. Ironically, the name came about because several
4 140’
Ledge climbers had scoped the line, but everyone thought it looked too dirty and wet
5.8 A2 or 5.10 to be fun....so Russell and Friel kept the ‘gross’ theme going even though it was
120’ 3 a great route. Chris picked me up hitchhiking to El Cap one day and told me
that story; he was so proud of how good the route was, lol.
5.7

2 120’

12a or C2

150’ 1

5.10 or A2

Ph
Phot
ooo:: Taylo
aylo
ay or SSiinc
ncic
cic
ich 299
Washington Column

North Dome
Washington Gully Descent
Column

Astroman
Harding South Prow
Buttress Face

Arches
Wall Bulging
Puke The
Direct
The
Odyssey
exposed
4th class

Gully

1/2 mile from pavement

to exposed slab below
South Face
more
direct approach
some scrambling
Mirror
Lake
easier
approach
with haulbag

1/4 mile
to Ahwahnee ek
Cre
aya
Ten

Stables
Backpacker’s Camp

N
North Pines
Campground

Merced River
To Curry Village

Approach
From the Backpackers Campground (located on the north side of Tenaya Creek across from North
Pines Campground) follow the paved bike trail toward Mirror Lake. After 0.25 miles, leave the paved
trail at a clearing and walk 100’ uphill to the dirt horse trail that parallels the bike trail. Look for a
faint climber’s trail heading more or less straight uphill. This is the easier Column approach and the
Arches Wall approach. The more difficult boulder-scrambling approach, and the way most peo-
ple descend, is another 200’ along the horse trail, marked by a faint trail that leads to a distinctive
apartment sized boulder at the base of a boulder field. Follow cairns up to the base of the cliff.

300 | Washington Column

 Afroman, pitch 8 (p. 272). Photo: Erik Sloan

Tsunami pitch!

Micah Bisson heading up the Outer Banks (A3) on Afroman (p.324). Photo: Erik Sloan
 1) Tsunami 6) South Central 10
2) Bulging Puke 7) Southern Man
3) The Harding Buttress (no topo) 8) South Face 7-8 9
4) The Direct Route 9) Skull Queen
5) The Odyssey 10) The Re-animator

5 6

4
2
3

7
8

1 9
6 10

7 8

6-10

1-4
302 Photo:
Ph
Phot
oto:
oto: Tayylo
lor Siinccicch
1) The Prow 4 7-12
2) Ten Days After 1-2
3,5,6
3) Electric Ladyland 13,14
4) Crosstown Traffic
5) Endangered Species
6) Afroman
7) Astroman
8) Horney/Johnson
9) Mideast Crisis 3
10) Quantum Mechanic 4,7
9,10
11) Saddam Hussein
12) The Great Slab Route 5 11,12
13) Tora Bora
14) Bad Wall (no topo)
15) History of the Future

6
5
11
3
4,5
12
8-10

15
6 4 11

14
2
10
13

9,10
3-4 12
8
13

3 6

4-5
7
1 15

2 14
9 12,13
11

5 10

2,3
1,4 7-9

5,6
P oto:
Ph otto:
o o Taylo
ayylo
lorr Si
Sinc
ncic
ich
ich
303
 North Dome Gully Descent
North Dome Gully, for the athletic, is the safest way to descend from Royal Arches
or Washington Column. Folks averse to hiking cross country, and possibly having
to route find or backtrack once to get back on route because of multiple trails,
should rappel instead. Once you get this trail dialed, it’s awesome! The views are
sublime...and your rope will never get stuck. After a couple times this is a jubilant
hour to hour-and-a-half jog after a trip up the Arches, or a quick two-hour descent
after a bigwall adventure. That said, only do it at night if you feel really confident
doing so – definitely not for your first time.
Manage this hike by thinking of it in five distinct sections (from the top of
Royal Arches):
1. “The Silk Road” – blissful (though uphill) hiking along the rim of the Valley,
20-30 minutes to the top of W. Column. Heaven on Earth right there.
2. The Crux - sandy traversing trail, with some up and down, and an exposed
traverse and downclimb. Be very alert on this section so as not to follow a sucker
trail that leads down to a cliff. Never do a move harder than 5.0! 30-45 minutes
3. The Gully proper, starts with the easy “Sand Flats” section that leads down to a
couple short, exposed downclimbs. At the bottom make sure to stay high and cut
slightly up and over to the W. Column approach trail. 30-45 minutes
4. W. Column climber’s trail – easy cruising now, just make your way through talus
and forested switchbacks to the paved Mirror Lake bike path. 20-30 minutes. Keep
after it here, as it’s easy to slow down because you’re tired.
5. Nice leg-stretching flats for the last half mile back to the Ahwahnee! 10-15
minutes

ad ”
“ The Silk Ro

The Jungle Bulging

(fresh water spring) Puke
Royal Arches

Ahwahnee
Hotel Backpackers Camp
Mirror Lake Bike Path 5

valet pkng
 North Dome

“Crest Jewel”

Washington
Column the crux -lots of up and down traversing
1

exposed
traverse exposed
down- 2

climb North
Dome “The Sand Flats”
Astroman Gully
exposed
down-
climb
3

South Face NO

Climbers Approach
Trail to W. Column
Photo: xRez.com
5

305
 Southern Man V 5.8 A1 or C2+F
FA: 1992 - Francis Ross, Rich Albushkat North Dome
Gully descent
South Face V 5.8 C1 or 5.12 V10 Sweet
FA: September 1964 - Layton Kor, Chris Fredericks sandy summit!
walking
Skull Queen V 5.8 C2 Pack it in
Pack it out
FA: June 1984 - Chuck Chance, Jeff Altenburg, Steve Bosque

5.3 NO
gravel slab

SQ11

10
rap route (for all routes)
135’130’ to rappel down South Face
5.5
Southern Man Rack: sandy
gully
60m to 120’ 5 5.11 or
SQ5
120’ (good for South Face or Skull Queen) awesome
ledge belay C1 5.10
Nuts: 2 ea regular and micro or C1
takes1-3” 5.6
80’ 3 ea #5, #6 micro steep
SF5 NO
p Skull Cams: 3 ea .3-1”
50m Queen 4.5:”
C1 to C2 5.11 or 2 ea 1.25”-4” 5.7 wild
micros ledge C1+ cool 5.8
1 ea 5”,7” 150’ 9
SQ10 110’
C2+ 150’ SF4 alcove 5.6
move 2 Beaks: 2 ea #3 C2+
left C2
2 LAs: 2 ea #2, #3 10b
90’ 4 Hooks: 2 ea or C1 reachy
.3-1.75” 5.8
or
5.11 or C1 3 Camhooks: 2 ea narrow C1 SF9 130’
.3-2.5”
1 ea wide 3” piece C2+
thin 5.7
Kor Roof 2 Heads: 1 ea #3-#4 loose
5.9 or C1
.4-3”
5.14 5.8 C2 SQ9 100’
South camhooks
nice ledge var. Face
sleeps 2-3 3 5.6 8
SF8 150’
160’
C2
South 3 120’
.3-1”
Central 5.8
Dinner awk C2F
5.6 C2
Ledge chimney
NO
awesome bivy .5-2.5” 120’
for 6 5.8
SQ8
hands
or C1
5.8 C2+ C2
fixed 7 130’
head 5.9 awesome
p 2 95’ The
Southern Man Pharaoh hand crack
starts after three .3- SF7 150’ C1
pitches of South Face 10b 5.7 lb
3” or Re-animator or C2+
p C1 Skull
hands 140’ Queen
NO 10b 11c 5.8 to SF6 .3-1.5”
(big, obvious or 5.10 or
corner) or 5” C1
C1 C1 C2+ thin
thin p 140’ hands
thin crack 5.7 p 6
1 120’ 1 Prow move 5.7 70’ SQ7 C1
on face belay takes
(mandatory)
move belay bad slab .6-1” .3-1.75” 4.5”
5.9 or C1
20’ left on hauling 5.11
ledge or SQ6 120’
5.6 Jo- C2+ C1
Jo thin
Ten thin
5.8 Days
5.8 After
var. or C1 SF6 90’ 5.7
South mantel
A1 thin Face
or C2F 5.7 face C2
an mandatory fixed
om heads
4th tr
class As
steep 5
cliff Afroman SQ5

SF5

306 | Washington Column

 t
cen
des

10 135’ North
Dome
Gully
5.7
150’ 9

C2
8 160’
Southern Man is the funky cousin of the South Face.
Short, boulder-problem aid cruxes are sprinkled
C2+F
throughout some splitter cracks. It is harder, and less
130’ 7
classic, than Skull Queen but is still super fun, and is way
better than South Central.
C2+
Plan: Day one climb to pitch 5, and then rap and bivy on 140’ 6

Dinner Ledge, leaving your rope fixed. Most folks jug C2

early the next day and finish the route that day, rapping
down to bivy on Dinner Ledge a second night, and then A1
continuing down the third morning. You wake up early 5 120’
on the wall, so if you are exhausted consider doing this C2+
schedule, as you will probably be down at your car by
mid - late morning, feeling great. If you wanted to bivy on 90’ 4
the route, pitch 7 would be the only good bivy. Folks who A0
don’t want to practice nailing have been skipping the
5.4
thin crack at the beginning of pitch 6 by climbing up to Sunset Ledge 3 120’
the fifth anchor on the South Face, and then traversing
into the upper, C2 part of pitch 6. Dinner Ledge
5.8
2 95’
The Elements/Retreat: SM gets sun from morning to late
afternoon. Southern Man is low angled and receives
10b 11c
runoff, so this is not a good choice in a storm. To retreat, 120’
1 1
descent
rappel the route. trail
move
FA History: Rich Albushkat and Francis Ross made the belay 5.8
first ascent in 1992, no doubt cranking 104.1 The Hawk -
the classic rock radio station that comes in good on 4th Class
Yosemite’s walls. Scramble

Photo: Taylor Sincich

307
 South Face V 5.8 C1 or 5.12c V10
FA: September 1964 - Layton Kor, Chris Fredericks North Dome
Gully descent
FFA: October 2002 - Matt Wilder
Sweet
Southern Man V 5.8 A1 or C2+F sandy summit!
Approach: FA: 1992 - Francis Ross, Rich Albushkat walking Pack it in
Pack it out!
45 - 75 Minutes. Skull Queen V 5.8 C2
See description on page 300 FA: June 1984 - Chuck Chance, Jeff Altenburg, Steve Bosque
5.3 NO
gravel
slab
SQ11
. rap route (for all routes)
11 130’
130’ to
10
Note: Pitches 8 & 11 have some
5.5 loose rock. If jugging, coil lead
sandy rope as you go so it doesn’t get

5.12 or
South Face Rack: gully stuck or dislodge rocks.

60m to ledge 120’ Nuts: 1 ea regular awesome

100’ C1 10b thin
belay 1 ea micro offsets #3, #4 or C1
takes 1-3” 80’ 5.6
5
2 ea micro offsets #5,#6 steep NO
85’
C1 140’ Skull
Cams: 2 ea .3”-3”, 1ea 4” 10
wild 4.5:”
micros to C2 12c or Queen Offset Cams: 1-2 ea 5.7
ledge C1+ cool 5.8
SQ10 110’
C2+ alcove 1 Hook: grappling(optional) SM9
move C2 Comfy free shoes .4-2” C2+
left loose C2
135’ 10b
90’
.3-1.75”
4
Southern Man 5.8
or C1 reachy
5.11 or C1 Addl. Rack: or
C1
9 120’ .3-2.5”
130’ rappel
2 Beaks: 2 ea #3 5.8
thin 5.7 C2+
Kor Roof 2 LAs: 2 ea #2, #3 loose
Hooks: 2 ea start up chimney 5.9 or C1
Southern then step right .4-3”
C2 SQ9 100’
Man V10 5.8 Camhooks camhooks
p
var. Clance Stance
nice ledge 5.6 2 Heads: 1 ea #3-#4
130’ SM8 8 150’
sleeps 2-3 Cams: 1 ea 5”,7” C2
5.8 .3-1”
South 3 120’
chimney
Central Dinner Skull Queen C2F
Ledge Addl. Rack: loose
NO
awesome bivy Cams: 1 ea 4.5” 5.8 .5-2.5”
SQ8 120’
for 6 5.6 and C2
3 Heads: 1 ea #2-#4 120’ rappel
C1
6 Rivet Hangers
5.8 fixed C2
1 Hook: grappling head SM7 130’
C3F
2 95’
2 Camhooks: narrow The 5.9 awesome
p Pharaoh hand crack
.3- 7 150’ C1
10b 5.7
3” or or C2+
Re-animator
p C1 Skull
hands Queen
Southern 5.8
NO 10b 11c Man .3-1.5”
(big, obvious 5.10 or
corner)
or or 5” belay
takes C1
C1 C1 140’ C2+ vthin
.6-1” to 6
thin 140’ hands
thin crack 5.7
1 120’ 1 move
SM6 5.7 70’ SQ7 C1
on face Prow
move belay bad (mandatory) .3-1.75” 5.9 or C1
20’ left on hauling slab 4.5”
12b SQ6 120’
ledge or
5.6 Jo- C2+
Jo C1
Ten thin thin
5.8 Days
5.8 After
var. or C1 6 90’ 5.7
A1 thin mantel
or C2F 5.7 move C2
(mandatory)
m an fixed
ro 5.12 or heads
4th t
class As C1
steep SM5
cliff Afroman SQ5

Descent: 5

Rapping the route has become popular. That said, it is often very
windy in the afternoon, making rappelling more difficult. The rap
route starts at a tree to the right of the last anchor (the top
anchor for Skull Queen), and raps back to anchors 10 and 9 on the
South Face; from 9 you rap straight down on two independent
rappel anchors, meeting back up with the route at belay 6;
continue rapping the route to Dinner Ledge and on to the ground.
Alternatively, you can walk off via the North Dome Gully. NDG is
steep and sandy, and has some technical traverses, so do not
attempt it in the dark your first time. The NDG trail takes you
right by the base of the climb, where you scrambled up the fourth
class to begin. See photo /description of NDG on page 304.
308 | Washington Column
 t
cen
The only truly novice bigwall in the Valley, the South Face is des
incredible. Thin, stopper-eating splitter cracks abound, only a few
of which need to be aided if you can free climb 5.10a. South Face 130’ 11
North
is like a favorite book that you can read over and over. Dinner Dome
Ledge, just a few easy pitches up, is sandy and palatial. 5.6 Gully
85’ 10
Plan: Climb the King Air Boulder at Housekeeping Camp or aid up 10b
the bolts in the lead cave at your local gym to practice for the Kor 9 120’

Roof bolt ladder. Most parties spend a day getting to the base
and climbing to pitch 3 or 5. To summit in two days, you will need 5.9
to fix to pitch 5 your first day, leaving your rope fixed down to 8
150’
Dinner Ledge. Alternatively, if time allows it is much more
The Chimney
enjoyable to give yourself an extra day for fixing off Dinner Ledge
and enjoying the views, and then top out the third day - often 5.9
rested enough to rappel all the way to the ground and make it 150’ 7
back to the car at a reasonable hour. Most folks leave their haul
bag on Dinner Ledge, and retrieve it when they rappel, but
topping out and going to the true summit can be fun too. SF can
be the most crowded bigwall, so plan some extra time for sharing 12b
6 90’
belays and waiting in the lineup.
Skull Queen
The Elements/Retreat: South Face is in the sun almost all day, 5.12
though it is often windy and much cooler in the afternoon. The 85’ 5 12c
long cracks quickly become icy rivers in a storm – retreat before 5.11
V10 125’
you are in a downpour. To retreat, rappel the route. var.
4

Kor Roof
FA/FFA History: Layton Kor and Chris Fredericks first climbed the 5.4
SF in September of 1964. Kor recalled, “We were slow getting 3 120’
underway, not only because of inner feelings about potential
route problems but also because an animal had eaten most of our Dinner Ledge 5.8
bivouac food during the night.” (Still a problem today! ) The first 2 95’
three pitches to Dinner Ledge had already been climbed, and
only took the pair three hours! Pitches four and five involved 10b 11c
difficult nailing, and took the duo the rest of the day. The pair 1
1
120’ descent
climbed with all pitons, and a few nut-like chocks. Demonstrating trail
move
how difficult it was, at the end of the day the two continued to belay 5.8
the pitch six anchor to endure a miserable night at that stance,
instead of rappelling to the deluxe Dinner Ledge. When morning 4th Class
came, they were delighted to see a splitter crack shooting up the Scramble
wall. They climbed quickly, overcoming the chimney pitch with
what Kor described as, “the well-known technique of struggling.”
Not too bad struggling, though, as incredibly they stood on the
summit by noon - only 1.5 days to climb the FA! Matt Wilder freed
the South Face in October 2002, calling it “a 5.12 version of
Serenity Crack” - the classic 5.10 splitter.
The Ledge: Dinner Ledge can be hot in the summer, so bring a
shade tarp. Ring tails, and aggressive squirrels frequent the ledge,
so bring a plastic container for your food, as hanging your haul
bag on the bolt above Dinner is not effective. Can we please get a
bear box here!

309
 Skull Queen V 5.8 C2
FA: June 1984 - Chuck Chance, Jeff Altenburg, Steve Bosque North Dome
Gully descent
South Face V 5.8 C1 or 5.12 V10 Sweet
FA: September 1964 - Layton Kor, Chris Fredericks sandy summit!
walking Pack it in
Southern Man V 5.8 A1 or C2+F Pack it out!
FA: 1992 - Francis Ross, Rich Albushkat

5.3 NO
gravel slab
The FAists brought a little "voodoo-like" doll with them on the first
ascent. They talked to it, argued over who would sleep with it, and 11 120’

ended up leaving it on a belay bolt. This doll inspired the route's name. rap route (for all routes)
SF11
130’ to
SF10
5.6
sandy

60m to ledge 5.11 or 5 120’

Skull Queen Rack: gully

100’ SM5 C1 Nuts: 2 ea regular and micro awesome

belay 10b
takes 1-3” 80’ Cams: 3 ea .3-3” or C1
5.5
SF5 p 1 ea 5” steep 85’ NO
C1 50m Offset Cams : 2 ea SF10
micros to C2 5.11 or C2 5.7 wild 5”
ledge C1+ cool 3 Heads: 1 ea #2-#4 5.8
C2+ alcove 6 Rivet Hangers SM9 10 110’
move C2 5.6
left loose 4 155’ 1 Hook: grappling C2+
C2
2 Camhooks: narrow 10b
90’ SM4 or C1 reachy
.3-1.5” 5.8
5.11 or C1 or
.3-3”
Skull Queen starts
after the first 4 pitches Southern Man C1 SF9 130’

thin of South Face 5.7 3” piece C2+

Southern Kor Roof Addl. Rack: 5.9 or C1
loose
Man 2 Beaks: 2 ea #3 start up chimney .4-3”
5.14 5.8 C2 then step right 9 100’
var.
South 2 LAs: 2 ea #2, #3 camhooks
nice ledge Face Clance Stance
sleeps 2-3 Hooks: 2 ea 130’ SM8
SF8 150’
Camhooks C2
South .3-1”
3 120’
Central
Dinner
2 Heads: 1 ea #3-#4 5.8
5.6 awk C2F
Ledge Cams: 1 ea 5”, 7” chimney
NO
awesome bivy 5.8 .5-2.5” 120’
for 6 and C2 8

C1
fixed C2
5.8 head SM7 130’
C3F
2 95’ The 5.9 awesome
p Pharaoh hand crack
SF7 150’ C1
.3- 10b 5.7
3” or or C2+
Re-animator
p C1 140’
hands
Southern 5.8 to 6
NO 10b 11c Man .3-1.5”
(big, obvious or 5.10 or
or 5” belay takes C1
corner) C1 .6-1” C2+ thin
C1
thin 140’
5.7 hands
thin crack 1 120’ 1 move
SM6 5.7 70’ 7
on face Prow
(mandatory) .3-1.75”
move belay bad slab 5” 5.9 or C1
20’ left on hauling 5.11
ledge or 6 120’
5.6 Jo- C2+ C1 6 & 7 link
Jo thin thin w. 60m rope
Ten
5.8 Days
5.8 After
var. or C1 SF6 90’
5.7
A1 thin South mantel
or C2F 5.7 face Face C2
mandatory fixed
an
om heads
4th tr
class As
steep SM5
cliff Afroman 5

SF5

310 | Washington Column

 t
cen
des

Skull Queen is the perfect introduction to bigwall aid climbing. 11 120’ North
Dome
Just seven pitches, and lower-angled so not too strenuous, Skull Gully
Queen is super fun. It is harder than the South Face but way 10b or C1
easier than the Prow.
10 110’
Plan: Day one climb to pitch 4, and then rap and bivy on Dinner C2+
Ledge, leaving your rope fixed. Most folks jug early the next day
and finish the route that day, rapping down to bivy on Dinner 9 100’
Ledge a second night, and then continuing down the third C2F
morning . You wake up early on the wall, so if you are
exhausted consider doing this schedule, as you will probably be 8120’
down at your car by mid - late morning, feeling great. If you C2+
have a portaledge, or want to try it out, this would be a decent
70’ 7
route to haul and bivy on a portaledge - in this case it would be
better to continue to the summit and walk down, as rapping 5.9 ow or C1
with the haulbag and portaledge can be tricky and strenuous 6 120’
for beginners; the true summit is killer!
C2
The Elements/Retreat: SQ gets sun from morning to late
afternoon. Skull Queen is low-angled and receives runoff, so is South
5 120’
not a good choice if a storm forecast. To retreat, rappel the Face
route. C2
4 155’

FA History: Chuck Clance, Jeff Altenburg, and Steve Bosque V10 5.11
var.
made the first ascent in June 1984. Drilling the long bolt ladders Kor Roof
made for slow going on the first ascent, and Clance and
Alternburg spent a couple weeks fixing before Bosque jumped 5.4
3 120’
on for the final push. They left a bright yellow haulbag at their
high point. “The thing was so conspicuous that the rangers Dinner Ledge
received frequent calls from tourists reporting climbers 5.8
stranded on Washington Column,” chuckled Clance.
2 95’

The fourth member of the team, who inspired the route’s name, 10b 11c
was a hand-sized, voodoo-like, doll that Altenburg brought 1 1 120’
descent
along. “We often brought it out during the climb and talked to
move trail
it. At night we would argue about whose turn it was with the
belay 5.8
doll,” remembered Clance.
“We had a pretty irreverent approach to the climb. Chuck
4th Class
Clance at one point untied from the lead line while hanging Scramble
only from a zmac rivet.” - Steve Bosque

Photo: Taylor Sincich

311
 The Re-animator VI 5.8 A3+
FA: January 1990 - Walt Shipley, Eric Kohl
Sweet Summit Bivy Spot!
North Dome Gully Pack it in
Descent Pack it out!
5 160’
South 11 130’
Face
sandy 4th class

.3-1”
A3
“New Life”
Rack:
6 Beaks: 2 ea #1-#3 5.8

3 LAs: 1 ea #1-#3 .3-2”

A3+ Nuts: 1 ea regular C2 thin
hooks 2 ea micro
A3+
heads Cams: 2 ea .3-2.5” 10 140’
4 100’ 1 ea 3-4.5”, 7”
A2 or
12 Heads: 4 ea #2-#4 C2+ thin
Hooks: 2 ea inc. pointed

Edge of the South Face

The Ear
A3 exp Camhooks
10-15 Rivet Hangers
A2
rivets
90’ 3
and drilled
hooks
60m
to 1
.3-2”
Dinner 150’ 9
Ledge
A2

2 120’
Hanging Curtain wild!
5.8 hands of Rock
A2+
exp

NO

South Re-animator
Face starts after the
C1 the first pitch of
South Face
120’
1 slab 160’ 8
1 Prow
bad “Give ‘em
hauling Enough Rope”
5.6 slab Jo-
Jo
.3-3” A3 heads
5.8 5.8 Ten
var. or C1 Days
sy

After
Gras

4th an
om
class tr
As
steep
cliff Afroman 6.5” move loose
C2+

7 145’

.3-3”

A2

A3
hooks

6 90’

A3

Kohl and Shipley were partners in bigwall passion, not

A2+ exp
best friends. On this climb, they soloed most of their
pitches, allowing the other person to be free at the 5
belay to relax, read, and get stoked.

312 | Washington Column

 130’ 11

C2
Re-Animator is a steep, challenging route that climbs the 10 140’
true prow of Washington Column. It is known for sections
of thin nailling, hooks, and copperheads interspersed with A2
some nice cracks. More of a location climb, Re-Animator is
150’ 9 Hanging Curtain
way less classic than the East Face routes Afroman, Mideast
Crisis, and Electric Ladyland so climb those routes first. Of Rock (A2+)

Plan: Most folks fix a couple pitches, and then spend 3 - 4 160’ 8
days on the wall.
A3
The Elements/Retreat: Re-Animator gets sun from
morning until mid-afternoon. This route is super exposed,
so would be tough spot in a storm. To retreat rappel the 7 145’
route, some downaiding and penjis may be required.
A3
FA History: Two rowdy bigwall aces, locals Walt Shipley
and Eric Kohl, made the first ascent in January 1990. 6 90’

A3
They were surprised to find lead bolts on the first few 160’ 5
pitches, evidence of an earlier attempt. The fifth pitch was
their first on virgin terrain, so they called it “New Life.” They “New Life” (A3+)
left the first pitches fixed, in case a forecasted winter storm
arrived early. But their ‘retreat umbilical cord’ got cut when 100’ 4

Kohl trundled a large block higher up. “The block went

right over the route and shredded the fixed ropes and we The Ear (A3)
were like, so much for that idea,” said Kohl. 90’ 3

A2
They found the route engaging, with some short tricky
sections, but never too serious. The popularity of this route Dinner Ledge 2 120’
can no doubt be attributed to the many funny bigwall
stories Walt and Eric would often tell about each other.
They might have sandbagged some of the ratings initially, C1
as a few of the harder parts saw rivets get added on the South Face
second ascent. 120’ 1

5.8 or C1
On the third night a storm was forecast. Kohl recalls, “I was
stressed out - getting my rainfly set up perfectly and
everything but Walt was real casual, sitting in his ledge. He
said to me, ‘What are you attached to this world?’ If a grim
storm hit us, Walt would not have cared.” The team topped
out after four days on the wall, and right before a
weeklong snowstorm hit the Valley. Walt Shipley, cool
dude, R.I.P. - died in a kayaking accident in 1999. Eric Kohl
still lives in the SF Bay area where he is originally from, and
still climbs in Yosemite.

Photo: Taylor Sincich 313

 DINNER LE

314
D G E L OV E !

Photos: Gabriel Mann 315

 The Prow V 5.6 A2 or C2+
FA: May 1969 - Royal Robbins, Glen Denny
Sweet summit!
Pack it in
Pack it out!
5 110’
North Dome
Gully Descent 11 70’

camhook 4th
or micronut class

reachy
bolts
5.7 C1 (better way)
squeeze
10 135’
.3-2” C2F
slab
4 115’
5.9
C2F Rack: 5.9 or
C1
or (better way)
C1
3 Beaks: 1 ea #2
.3-3”
2 ea #3 4.5” 4.5”
Nuts: 2 ea micro
1 ea regular belly crawl
Cams: 3 ea .3 -1.25”
Anchorage Ledge 170’ 9
sloping - 3 100’ 2 ea 1.5” - 4”
use portaledge 3’x4’ ledge
1 ea 5”
C2F
3 Heads: 1 ea #2-#4 easy
3 Hooks: 1 ea talon, cliffhanger, gully p
link 2&3
w/60m rope grappling
but be careful
with rope drag C1 2 Camhooks: narrow
around the many
roof at belay 2 .3-1.5”
5.8 or C1
4”
90’ 2 180’ Alternate Pitch 8 belay -
use if hauling, to avoid
C1 5.10+ the haul bag eating
or C1+ flake
.3-1.5”

C2+ p Ten Days 100’ 8

thin pp After Electric 5.9
or A2 Ladyland haulbag
eating
150’ 1
flake
.3-3”
slab
C1+
5.11
or Tapir
C1 5.9 Terrace
or 135’ 7
C1 Ten Days sloping-use
5.6 After 5.6 portaledge
.3-5”
5.9 C2+ thin
Jo-Jo 10a watch rope
South or
or C2 drag
Face 10b C1
splitter
70’
sy
gras

Strange C2
Dihedral Ten Days
.3-3” After
4th
class
Afroman
6 130’

C2F
fixed
heads
few
.3-1.5”

316 | Washington Column

 11
70’
C1
135’ 10
The Prow is the bigger, badder sibling to the South
Face. It is spectacularly steep and splitter. The Prow is
5.9 or C1 challenging for beginners but is definitely approach-
able with the right gear. It is similar in difficulty to the
170’ 9 West Face of Leaning Tower.

Plan: Most parties fix one pitch and spend two days on
the wall. Unfortunately the ledges at 3 and 8 are
C1+ sloping, so require a portaledge. Definitely bring all the
thin cams, offset cams, and brass nuts you can get your
100’ 8 hands on, and if you’re experienced, having a big beak
or two can be nice. Have the taller climber lead the bolt
C1+ ladders, which can be reachy for shorter folks, and
Tapir 7 135’ bring a stiff quickdraw or short cheater-stick if you’re
Terrace under 5’7”.
C2+

Strange The Elements/Retreat: The Prow gets sun from sunrise

Dihedral to early afternoon. It is incredibly exposed, so is not be
a good choice if stormy weather is forecast. To retreat,
rappel the route.
130’ 6
FA History: Royal Robbins and Glen Denny made the
first ascent in 1964. Robbins described the climb, “Wild
C2F piton placements, nuts, runners on horns, a bit of free,
hooks, the whole rigmarole.” Everything went smoothly,
5 110’ though Robbins did take one whipper. “An exhilarating
pitch up a thin dihedral I named Strange Dihedral.”

They topped out after three days, having placed 38

C2F
bolts. Comically, some of the local climbers criticized
4 115’ Robbins for establishing a route that required so many
C2F bolts. A modern route might have that many bolts in a
climb of half the length! TM Herbert said, “Robbins,
Robbins, not you, not you man. Hell, you’ll set a bad
100’ 3 Anchorage Ledge example. Pretty soon we’ll have guys bolting up blank
C2F walls all over the Valley.” And Robbins replied, “But man,
it’s all a question of the climb being worth it. Worth the
number of bolts. Look at the line, man, look at the line.”
2 90’

C2+
150’ 1

5.11 or C1
Descent Trail

10b 10a or C1

4th class

Photo: Taylor Sincich 317

 Ten Days After V 5.7 A2+ Sweet summit!
North Dome Gully Pack it in
FA: January 1987 - John Barbella, Eric Brand Descent Pack it out!
70’
12

4th
class
loose

5.7 C1(better way)

squeeze
135’
11
P5 110’
5 125’
slab
camhook
or micronut 5.9
5.9 or or
C1 C1 (better way)
Electric
Ladyland 4.5”
4.5”

many belly crawl

.3-4” 170’
10
.3-2” C2F C1 3’x4” ledge
P4 115’
r
Corne

easy
gully p
C2F 4 110’
Huge

.3-2.5

.3-4”
5.8 or C1
Anchorage
C2
Ledge Alternate Pitch 9 belay -
P3 100’ 180’
use if hauling, to avoid
sloping 5.10+ the haul bag eating
use portaledge C2F A2 or C1 flake
3 or C3 haulbag
100’ 100’ eating
C2 thin Rack: 9
flake

4 Beaks: 2 ea #2 5.9
link 2&3 C1
w/60m rope 2 ea #3
many C1 beauty
.3-1.5” 2 LAs: 1 ea #2, #3 .3-3” Ten Days After
finishes on The Prow
4” Nuts: 1 ea micro C1+
90’ P2
2 115’ 1 ea regular
Tapir
grassy Cams: 3 ea .3-1.25” 195’ P7 8 Terrace
A2+ fixed heads
2 ea 1.5-3.5” 5.6
sloping-use
.3-1.5” portaledge
1 ea 4.5”
wet in winter/spring
C2+ 6 Heads: 2 ea #2-#4
thin C2 thin
or A2 C2 Electric 3 Circleheads: 1 ea #2-#4 watch rope
Ladyland drag
150’ P1 3 Hooks: 1 ea talon, cliffhanger,
slab Afroman grappling 70’
130’
4.5 1 2 Camhooks: narrow
5.11 slab 5 Rivet Hangers
.3-4.5” or 5.9+ Strange C2
C1 or
C1 Dihedral
5.6 .3-2.5”

Jo-Jo 10a 5.9 A2 fixed

or or
C2 P6 130’
10b C1
South splitter
Face
135’
sy

7
gras

A2
fixed heads
few
4th .3-1.5”
class
Afroman fixed
heads exp.

A2 or C3
P5
70’ 6 fixed circle heads
few Electric
.3-1” Ladyland
A2+ or
C3F
5

318 | Washington Column

 70’ 12

C1 5.7
11 135’

5.9 or C1
10 170’

5.10+ or C1

100’ 9
5.9

C1+ Ten Days After is a more challenging variation to the first half of
Tapir 8 195’
the Prow. Beautiful climbing up esthetic corners make this an
Terrace awesome adventure, though the first two pitches can be a little
dirty - climb them, that will clean them up! This can be an
awesome introduction to placing a few beaks on a mostly clean
climb, similar to what you do on Zodiac. TDA is harder than the
The Prow
A2 Prow, but is a step down from Zodiac.

135’ 7 Plan: Most parties fix two pitches and then spend 2 - 3 nights on
the wall.
A2 The Elements/Retreat: While not in a direct watercourse, only
pitches 3 -5 are steep enough to be sheltered in a storm. The
70’ 6 topout pitches are in a major watercourse. To retreat rappel the
A2+ or C3F 5 125’ route, downaiding and penjis required. From the pitch 4 anchor,
continue rapping straight down on Electric Ladyland anchors.

C1
FA History: Two ace bigwallers going for a practice run, John
Barbella and Eric Brand, put up this route in February 1987. The
wall went smoothly remembered Brand, “This climb was like an
exercise. We weren’t trying to do anything hard. No extensive
4 110’ trickery.” The pair brought their favorite beer - Old English (gross)
- along with a stove and all the accoutrements for kicking back
100’ 3 A2 or C3 on the wall. They topped out after a leisurely ten days. Future
C2
ascents tended to take three days, giving rise to a nickname for
the route, ‘Three Days Max.”
The Prow
2
115’
A2+
C2+

1 130’
5.9+
Descent Trail
10b

Photo: Taylor Sincich 319

 Endangered Species VI 5.8 A4
FA: January 2002 - Jon Blair, Mark Garbarini

This route was put up during the 'New Wave' era of bigwall
climbing, when 60m pitches and concern about the number
of bolts drilled was prevalent. Garbarini and Blair did every
trick in the book to keep their hole count low - they belayed
where other routes criss-crossed their path and built elaborate
Harding natural belays.
Electric Slot
Afroman Ladyland
Rack: Astroman
29 Beaks: 12 ea #1, 4
8
8ea #2, 8 ea #3
A3+
5 LAs: 1ea #1 - #5 beaks
Nuts: 2-3 ea micro,
1 ea regular Afroman

Cams: 5 ea (3 sets
regular to 4”, loose A3+
flake beaks
two sets offset),
1ea 5” Tsunami Electric
Ladyland
8 Heads: 2ea #1 - #4
Hooks: 2 ea Ten Days After Fro-Magnon
A4 Roof
Rivet Hangers beaks Tsulami
Camhooks steep!
3 Eagle Nest
60m ropes Ledge
4”
Afroman belay takes
5” piece
7
A1
beauty
A2
or Afroman
12b

C2 Electric
A3 Ladyland

Afroman
pitch 8
6

2 60m haul
from alt. belay Astroman
A3+
Electric
Ladyland
A3+

dirty North Dome Gully A1

Descent orange
Sweet summit! groove
Pack it in
Ten Pack it out!
Days
After
Afroman 5.3
9 50’ thin
h
4t ass
Crosstown A4 5.3 cl 5
“The
Traffic 40’ loose Watering
Electric Ladyland 1
Hole”
150’
5.2 9
slab
5.9 130’ Astroman “Snow &
4” 5.7 Steel”
sandy
5.9 5.11
The .3-3” or
Prow C2 Afroman
A3
5.10R
Ten Days
After C2
grassy

South
Face
8
5.8 5.7 var.
grass Crosstown
Traffic
Endangered Species
finishes on Electric
4th Ladyland
class Astroman slab
4

320 | Washington Column

 Crosstown Traffic V 5.13a R 6 115’
FA: May 2003 - Alexander Huber, Ben Van de Klooster

12a
Crosstown traffic was established right after
a nearby aid climb (Endangered Species), and
used some fixed copperheads and pitons from chimney
North Dome Gully that climb as pro. Subsequent attemps have
Descent
found that some of this gear is broken or missing,
11 110’
Sweet summit! so bring aid gear to check out this route.
Pack it in
Pack it out!
5.3 T.D.A. 5 110’
130’
11

belay 12b
takes
2-3”
200’ 10
2”
ledge Quantum
Mechanic,
5.7 Mideast Crisis
10d R 120’
p 4
10b R 3.5”
p Ten
Days Endangered
Species
Rack:
After

Nuts: 1 ea 12b
Cams: 2 ea .3”-2”
10 1 ea 3”-4”
p 10a lb Optional:
3 145’
p 2 Beaks
p 9 150’ 2 LAs
belay takes 1.5” 12a mantel
2 Heads p
12a
3”
5.9
Electric Endangered
Ladyland Species
Changing 180’
Corners thin 2

11d var.
11a p 13a
Crosstown
Traffic finishes lb
on Astroman
The
11a Prow
mantel
5.12
Ten Days
After
E.S.
180’ 1
8 Afroman

E.S. 11a
awesome ledge 11b
var.
11c
slab
Orange
Streak p
10c slot
11c var.
lb “Jo-Jo”
10b
glory
hands 10a
7
Electric
Ladyland
2” South
12c 10b Face

11a
var. 4th
Harding class
Slot Crosstown Traffic
Endangered Astroman starts on The Prow
Species

Washington Column | 321

 Electric Ladyland VI 5.7 A4
FA: May 1975 - Gib Lewis, Rick Accomazzo, Richard Harrison

10 120’
Rack:
Eagle Nest
15 Beaks: 5 ea #1-#3
2’x5’ ledge Ledge 2 LAs: 1 ea #2, #3
wild C1
3 Sawed Angles: 1 ea 1/2”-3/4”
splitter 5.9 ow Nuts: 1 ea (2 ea micros #4-#6)
cracks 2-5” Cams: 3 ea .3-2”
Ten 2 ea 3”-5”
Days 5 120’ Offset Cams: 2 ea
After
C1 5-10 Heads: mostly #2-#3
Hooks: 1 ea
A2+ 9 100’
Camhooks
C1 5 Rivet Hangers
A3+
heads
4 105’

p North Dome Gully

Descent
90’ 8
Sweet Summit!
Pack it in
185’ 12 Pack it out!
A3+

3 110’ 5.3
shuttle
A3 loose gear 4th
steep! class
C2+ loose
C2 A2 fun! 50’
12
7 125’ Astroman
A2+ 4” 5.7 20’
rotten sandy
2 130’ 150’ 11

A2
Afroman
Crosstown
Traffic
A2
A2 beaks

C2 C2
loose
6 110’
Ten A4
Days beaks Afroman
After
A3 C1
practice loose
130’ 1
40’ pitch many
.5-4”
slab 5.2
5.9 move belay 5.9
up slab squeeze
or C1
Jo-Jo
10b slab A2 cool!
Prow C1
5.9
.3-3”
South 5
Face
5.11 10
or C2
y

.3-2”
Grass

Astroman

4th
4th
Class
5.7
var.
cave

Afroman
start on
the (grassy) first
pitch of Ten Days After

322 | Washington Column

 185’ 12
5.3
50’ 12
5.7
11 150’

A2
Eagle Nest Ledge 10 120’
C1

100’ 9
Scrappy climbing gives way to the magical, long overhang-
A3+ ing corner system that marks this route. Electric Ladyland is
a wildly steep adventure climb. It is harder than the Zodiac
8 120’ but shorter. It is similar in overall logistics and difficulty to
Squeeze Play or Virginia - it’s shorter and less involved, but
C2+
technically tougher than those routes. This is a cool route to
do after you have done the Prow, Zodiac, and Afroman - it’s
120’ 7
good, but not as classic as those three.
A2+
Plan: Most parties fix two pitches and then spend 3 - 4 nights
on the wall.
110’ 6 The Elements/Retreat: Electric Ladyland gets early sun, so
can be hot in summer. It goes into the shade just after noon,
C1 and can be cool and windy in in the afternoons. Relatively
protected in a storm, Electric Ladyland is steep! To retreat
Ten Days After 5 120’
rappel the route, some down aiding and penjis required.
A2+
FA History: Gib Lewis, Rick Accomazzo, and Richard Harrison
made the first ascent in May 1975. Two days into their
ascent(!) and eager to reach a ledge after continuous
4 105’
overhanging terrain, the wide offwidth tenth pitch started
ominously for the trio. Accomazzo recalls: “Accounts differ
among Richard, Gib and I as to what happened next, and
A3+ who was responsible.....but it is 30 years too late for recrimi-
3 110’ nation, and all of the accounts agree on the essential fact
A3 that the sling, with all of the bongs, tubes and wide hexes,
somehow eluded our collective grasp and fell, without
touching the rock, all the way to the distant trees below.”
2 130’
Rick soldiered on, stacking three pitons together several
A2 times and placing a couple bolts, and Eagle Nest Ledge was
gained. The three topped out the next day, spending only
A4 three days on the first ascent! ....I mean, I think my partner
130’ 1 Theron and I only spent four days on the route, but we had
cams, offset cams, beaks, portaledge and stove - luxury!
5.9+ or C2

Descent Trail

Photo: Taylor Sincich 323

 Afroman VI 5.6 A3+
FA: August 1994 - Jeff Hornibrook, Mark Carpenter

Sweet Summit!
Pack it in
Pack it out!
North Dome Gully
E.L. Descent
125’ 5 A2
E.S. Note: It’s best to break pitch 11 into two sections 11 110’
A1 hooks
as shown, as it is super traversing and loose. Haul
to the intermediate ledge and then shuttle/haul 5.3
loose gear up the 5.3 to the summit.
flake
“Quest to 3rd 11 45’ loose
the West” 4th
A2 beaks 4”
Ten 5.7 20’ Astroman
Days
After
Rack: sandy 120’
10

10 Beaks: 1 ea #1 A1 E.L.
4 120’ or
Electric 4 ea #2 C2
Ladyland C2 5 ea #3
C1
10 LAs: 2 ea #1-#5
A3 hooks, 4 Angles: 2 ea 1/2”, 5/8”
beaks, 4 Sawed Angles: 1 ea 1/2”-1”
blades A1
Endangered
Nuts: 2 ea
Species Astroman Cams: 3 ea .3-1.5” 9 110’

good bivy for 2 2 ea 2-4”

A2 beaks - definitely worth going Offset Cams: 2 ea
to ledge if bivying
9 Heads: 3 ea #2-#4
Tsunami
Hooks: 2 ea A2
3 120’
130’ rap Camhooks A3 short
5 Rivet Hangers 120’ 8
.
C1 or 5.11splitter E.S

1.25-3”

Hornyzontal
C2
5.7 or C2 awk grass
2 125’ “The Outer Banks”
130’
E.S.
C2
off route
rivets A3+ E.L.
grass heads p
“Welcome to the
Jungle”
120’ 7
Ten Days hard penji
After E.L.
A3 A2
beaks
A3
1 40’ practice
pitch
5.2
slab 50m haul 130’
from 2
“Piece of Pie”
.3-2.5”
Jo-Jo slab
1 135’ C2
corner

Ten Days
After
South Face 5.11
f huge

or
C2 6 140’
y
Grass

.3-2”
edge o

Prow
5.10R
Astroman
A3

4th
Class
5.8 “Walk the Line”
grass 5.7
var.
cave
A3+
thin

E.L.
5

324 | Washington Column

 11
110’
5.3
45’
11
120’ 5.7
10

110’ 9 Outrageously overhanging yet moderate, Afroman is

one of the best aid routes anywhere. It is definitely the
steepest route on the Column, possibly in Yosemite.
The Tsunami (A3) Afroman is the Shield of Washington Column, with thin
120’ 8 splitter cracks interspersed with mellow, wandering
pitches. If Afroman were next to the Zodiac, it would be
considered equally glorious!
“The Outer Banks” (A3)
Plan: Most parties fix two pitches and then spend 3-4
nights on the wall. While moderate, the middle part of
the route is super steep, so the going can be slow. It is
120’ 7
definitely worth it to climb a short pitch to the off-route
“Piece of Pie” (A2) bivy ledge on Astroman, just above and right of the third
belay. The rest of the route doesn’t have more than a
stance the whole way! This might be a good route to flag
140’ 6
the portaledge.

“Walk the Line” (A3+) The Elements/Retreat: Afroman gets early sun, so can
be hot, but goes into the shade just after noon. It can be
cold and windy in spring and fall. While the beginning
125’ 5
and middle are steep and protected, the last pitches get
runnoff, and could be difficult (but not impossible) in
“Quest to the West” (A2)
bad weather. To retreat rappel the route, downaiding
and penjis required. From pitch 5 you can continue
straight down, following Electric Ladyland anchors.
4 120’

FA History: Yosemite locals Jeff “Fro” Hornibrook and

Astroman Mark Carpenter made the first ascent in August of 1994.
A3 bivy ledge This was back when parties still climbed nearby
3 120’ Astroman as a two-day route, so the pair had some
entertainment as they watched parties attempt that free
5.11+ or C1 climbing testpiece. The name was inspired in response
“The Hornyzontal” (C2) to the constant “are you guys on Astroman?” calls that
2 125’ Jeff and Mark heard. Hornibrook, who is hilarious,
“Welcome to responded “No we’re on Afroman!” Fro got his nickname
the Jungle” (A3) for being really good at basketball, lol.

move belay 1 40’

(5.2) Descent Trail
1 135’

5.11 or C2

Photo: Taylor Sincich 325

 Astroman IV 5.11c or V 5.10 C2
FA: July 1959 - Warren Harding, Glen Denny, Chuck Pratt
FFA: May 1975 - John Bachar, Ron Kauk, John Long

Sweet summit!
Pack it in North Dome
Pack it out! Gully Descent
Splitter, and offering every type of crack, 10 110’
130’ 5
5 Astroman is easily considered one 5.3
of the top climbs at its grade in the world. belay
takes
It can be tricky, though, because it bakes in the 130’ 10 2-3”
morning sun until 1030 or11 am. This punishing, 200’ 9
2”
often windless heat combined with the ledge Quantum
Mechanic,
challenging cruxes down low, cause plenty of 5.7 Mideast Crisis,
10c lb et al.
folks to opt for practicing the first five pitches, 4”
and then returning to finish the climb later. . 10a
ow/lb

fixed pins and p

copperheads 10d R
10b
flared
3” chimney
Rack: p

Nuts: 1 ea micro
80’ 4 2 ea small, med p
Cams: 1 ea .3” 4” at top 10a lb
of tower
5.9 2 ea .5” -.75” p
roof move
3 ea 1”-2” 9 8 150’
belay takes 1.5”
2 ea 3” small stance
1 ea 4”
3”
loose
5.9

5.8 Changing
hands thin
Corners
11d var.
11a
edges
& lb
3 165’
Overnight 11a mantel
Ledge
The first five pitches
7 165’
are called ‘Astroboy’, 5.7
p "Letting the moves come to me feels better than
chimney awesome ledge
and you can descend forcing my way. Just let the moves come to you.
them with one 70m Extend your spirit, not your ego"
rope (watch the ends). -Ron Kauk
11c lb & stemming
Plenty of parties practice Enduro
Corner Crosstown
the first pitches like this, Traffic
loose
which allows you to try many 11b
p
10c slot
both variations on pitch 1.25-3” var.
two, and to get the appraoch 2 40’
and initial pitches dialed
on what most find to be “Boulder p
Problem” Quantum
a long, challenging day. Mechanic Plank’s
11c 10b stem
var. .5” pro Constant Roof
p on right 13a lb
2”
6-8” 10b
1 180’

slab 5.6 6 100’

10a lb pp

SLAB
110’ 5.10
squeeze
5.7
wet in early Harding Slot
season few 1-1.5” long pants
11c tricky advised
5.6
1.5”
10c lb

South 5
Face,
Prow Afroman

326 | Washington Column

Astroman, pitch 4. Photo: Marek Jakubowski
 Mideast Crisis VI 5.7 A2 or C3
FA: March 1983 - Steve Bosque, Mike Corbett
Horney-Johnson VI 5.7 A3+
FA: October 1988 - Jeff Hornibrook, Troy Johnson
Hotel California 7 140’
Horney-Johnson good bivy
finishes on Mideast for 2
Crisis or Astroman MC was definitely an undiscovered gem when Corbett and
C1
Bosque climbed it in '82. Even modern climbers marvel
C2 loose
A3
12a how a route so steep can have so many splitter cracks,
loose 4.5” 5.9+ barely requiring any trickery like cam hooks or pitons.
C1 or piece moss
5.9 5.11 A2
H6
stay
left awk

A3+ 11d Sweet summit!

Pack it in North Dome
thin Gully Descent
Pack it out! 12 110’
6 130’
11a ow shuttle 5.3
5”
A2+ many 4.5-6” gear
C1 .75-2”
or 120’
Three pitch 11b 12
free variation S.H.
to Quantum Mechanic, Electric
called ‘Quantum Leap’ Ladyland
H5 150’ 1.5”
5”
C1 or 11a 5.7
p 12c thin
5 120’ 10d R p
or C3F
C2 10b R
p
Steep!
“Captain C2
Fantastic”
.5”
Saddam p
Hussein
C2+ loose
A3+ or A1
C1 or 11a 5.11 Astroman
H4 90’
Quantum
Mechanic
Rack: C1
1.5-4” G.S.R.
3 Beaks: 1 ea #2, 2ea #3 Quantum
5” 4 120’ Mechanic
2 Angles: 1 ea 1/2”, 5/8” 120’ 11 C1 belay
p
Mean 350’ and one Nuts: 1 ea 5.10 or C2
Street A2 more station C2
many
1-2.5”
to ground Cams: 3 ea .3-1”
5.11+
H3 85’
C1 or 12a 4-6 ea 1.25-3.5” squeeze
2 ea 5” var.
C2 loose
Astroman or 5.11 2 ea 7” (if climbing Planck’s Constant var.)
p Offset Cams: 2 ea
A3+ 5.7 3 Heads: 1 ea #2-#4 12c
Enduro 3 100’ Hooks: 2 ea
Corner
11c 3 Camhooks: 2 ea narrow, wide p 10 90’
C2 p
C2 C1
many or 12d
H2 1.5-3”
C1 Planck’s Horney/Johnson Addl. Rack: outrageously
Constant 10 Beaks steep!
C2 hooks 5.13 or C2 9 180’
or 5.10 4 KBs C1
2 120’ 6-8” C1 or 12b
6 LAs p pitches 8-11
C3 or
A2 wet 8 Angles require many
5.11 4” C1 cams 1.5-4”
10 Heads: mostly #3, #4
pp .4-5”
Astroman
10d or
120’ C2+ rotten
1 140’
170’ 8
5.7
loose
wet in early G.S.R blocks
season 5.7
5.5
5.9 Saddam
5.6 munge The Great Slab
Hussein

Quantum
Mechanic
4” Great Slab Route
loose
grassy
5.8 loose
roman
o Ast
25’ t

100’ 7
to Afroman
H Horni-Johnson

328 | Washington Column

 12
110’
5.3
Mideast Crisis is an awesome, moderate
adventure climb characterized by incredible 120’ 12
splitter cam cracks interspersed with some less 10b R or C2
clean pitches. This is the perfect training climb for
El Cap! The awesome bivy ledge in the middle of Astroman 11 120’
the route breaks up long sections of wildy steep
climbing. Mideast is harder than the Prow but “Photoelectric Effect Tree” (12c or C2)
easier than Zodiac. 10 90’
Plan: Most parties fix four pitches on day one, 12d or C1
180’ 9
and then spend two to three nights on the wall.
Plan to haul from pitch 4 even if you are not
fixing, as the first few pitches are low-angled and
circuitous, and can be dirty. After pitch 4 the “Probability Wave” (10d or C2+)
route is incredible! 170’ 8

The Elements/Retreat: Mideast gets early sun, so

can be hot, but goes into the shade just after “Classical Physics”
noon. It can be cold and windy in spring and fall. (5.8 loose) The
In summer, with the afternoon shade the East Great Slab
Face of the Column always feels cooler than the 140’
Leaning Tower. To retreat, rappel the route.
7 9
Hotel California
12a
“The Particle Pitch” (5.9+)
FA History: Yosemite pioneers Steve Bosque and or A2 8 140’
Mike Corbett made the first ascent in March 1983.
130’ 6 Eye of Einstein (11a ow)
The climbing went smoothly, and they marveled 5.11 or C2
at the perfect cam cracks. “We had the original 7 140’
rigid-stem Friends, and they worked great,”
recalled Bosque. 120’ 5 “Grey” (12c)
A storm hit the wall on their third day, dumping a C2+ 6 140’
foot of snow, but Bosque and Corbett were safe in or 11a “Orange” (5.11)
the overhanging corners. “The wall is so steep up
120’ 4 5
there we didn’t get hit by a drop of water.”
“Tunnelling Electron” (12a or C2)

100’ 3 4

C2 5.11
Plancks Constant (13a)
3

2 120’ 2

5.11
C3 or A2 1

5.9 munge
Astroman
Original Start
120’ 1

Descent Trail
5.7

Photo: Taylor Sincich 329

 Quantum Mechanic V 5.13a
FA: June 2002 - Rob Miller, Jay Selvidge
Quantum Leap Var. V 5.12a
FA: May/June 2011 - James Lucas, Madaleine Sorkin, Ben Ditto
Wildly steep and splitter, QM requires
every type of climbing technique, and a 9 140’
good head for occasional loose / brittle Hotel
rock. California
Ok bivy for two

C2 loose “Particle Pitch”

12a
5.9+
moss
A2
stay
left 140’ 8

Sweet summit!
Pack it in North Dome
11d Gully Descent
Pack it out! 16 110’
“Eye of Einstein”
130’
11a ow
5” 5.3
many 4.5-6”
11b .75-2”
120’
7 140’ 16
S.H.
Electric
Ladyland
1.5”
5”
“Grey”
p
p 12c thin
120’
p 10d R
p
Steep!
Mideast Crisis, 6 140’
Quantum Leap var. 10b vR
.5”
“Orange” Saddam p
Hussein

“Preferences of Nature”
“General Relativity”
Astroman 11a
11a 5.11

1.5-3.5” 14 120’
5 110’
80’ 15 10d 12c
p 350’
to ground
many
Astroman
1-2.5”
12a
Rack: “The Observer”
11a
Nuts: 1 ea squeeze
“Tunneling Electrons” Cams: 3 ea .5”-4”
p 1-2 ea 5”
Enduro 11a
Corner
2 ea 7” “Photoelectric
Effect Tree” 12c
4 80’
11c pp
90’ 12 13 60’
12d
6”
11 a “Lorentz Transformations”
awk With this low crux it is
easy to work it on day one, 5.11 “Schrodinger’s Cat”
Planck’s
and then fix two ropes to the 5 pitches of roofs
140’ 3 Constant Roof ground (the higher cruxes
140’ to 13 a
intermediate are splitter cracks, so easier
to pull through) Mideast Crisis belay
station 12b move
6-8” p 11 150’
32 80’
11c 4” belay takes 2-4”

Mideast pp 1-4”
Astroman Crisis 60’ 1 “Probability Wave”
130’
sandy 5.6 10d
120’
G.S.R.
170’ 10
5.7 140’ to
the ground 25’ downclimb to
wet in early Changing Corners belay on 5.8
season Astroman
5.9+ Saddam
munge The Great Slab
Hussein
5.6
“Classical
Physics”
4” G.S.R.
Original Quantum loose,
Mechanic start--dirty, grassy
not popular man
ro
o Ast 5.8
25’ t
9
120’
to S. Face
4th class

330 | Washington Column

 12
110’
5.3
FFA History:
120’ 12
Rob “Platinum” Miller and Jay “Shaggy” Selvidge
10b R or C2
made the first free ascent in April 2002.
QM was established when Chongo Chuck lived in the Astroman 11 120’
Valley. Chongo's fanatical interest in physics caused
many Valley climbers to take up the subject. Selvidge “Photoelectric Effect Tree” (12c or C2)
has a master’s degree in math from UC Berkeley, and 10 90’
worked at the time programming satellites for NASA.
12d or C1
The theme for the climb was inspired by the climb's 180’ 9
tremendous steepness.
Yuji Hirayama made the second free ascent, onsight,
later that year. “Probability Wave” (10d or C2+)
170’ 8

“Classical Physics”
(5.8 loose) The
Great Slab
140’
7 9
Hotel California
12a
“The Particle Pitch” (5.9+)
or A2 8 140’
130’ 6 Eye of Einstein (11a ow)
5.11 or C2
7 140’

120’ 5 “Grey” (12c)

C2+ 6 140’
or 11a “Orange” (5.11)
120’ 4 5

“Tunnelling Electron” (12a or C2)

100’ 3 4

C2 5.11
Plancks Constant (13a)
3

2 120’ 2

5.11
C3 or A2 1

5.9 munge
Astroman
Original Start
120’ 1

Descent Trail
5.7

Photo: Taylor Sincich 331

Mt. Watkins
3,4,6 2 7
1 5,8
9

9
5

1 4

2,3 4,5

6,7 8
Mt. Watkins is an incredible, El
Cap-sized alpine bigwall, with
a grueling half-day approach
and descent. The pace of life up to 5.6
back in Tenaya Canyon seems if fixed ropes
far removed from the hustle 1) Hook, Line, and Sinker
and bustle of the Valley proper.
are missing
2) Seido
You will likely see few people 3) South Face
and no signs of civilization 4) Soul Garden
after you leave Mirror Lake. The 5) The Prism
first 800 feet of Watkins is low 6) Tenaya’s Terror
5th class scrambling to reach 7) Soul Shakedown
a comfortable terrace, from 8) Bob Locke Memorial Buttress
where the routes begin. So 9) Escape from Freedom
don’t plan on leaving anything
at the base, because you will
not want to go all the way
back up the approach slabs to
retrieve your gear. Like El Cap,
the cracks here are deep and
parallel, though slightly grassy. Tenaya Canyon Trail
Tenaya Creek
332 Photo: Erik Sloan
 South S. Face
Face Free

Soul Garden,
The
Prism
Tenaya’s
Terror

Soul
Shakedown
rope up
point for
S. Face

nice flat
spot
3rd

5.5
5.7

Mount Watkins is in the sun all day

long, so definitely bring extra water
for these routes. 3rd

5.5 face
if corner 5.7
is wet

5.8 or
fixed rope

Snow Creek
Switchbacks

5.5
clean corner
Snow 5.4 face
2.5 miles from Mirror Lake Creek
to start of 5th class
400’
Mirror Lake
bike rack & begin 5th class where
restroom cross here trail rejoins Tenaya Creek
in spring
Mirror Lake Loop Trail

informal
Mirror trail ek
Lake Cre
aya
Ten

Half Dome
NW Face
approach

Approach Descent
Hike east on the Mirror Lake loop trail for 1 mile until One mile scramble up, around, and down to
before it crosses Tenaya Creek. Follow a faint hiking Snow Creek Trail, 4.5 miles down the trail to
trail on the north side of the creek, staying within a Mirror Lake, 5.5 miles back to Yosemite Stables.
couple hundred feet of the creekbed for 1.5 miles
until the trail brings you within a couple hundred
feet from the base of Mt. Watkins. Continue a few Easy three mile
hundred yards east and pick up a faint climber’s hike to hwy 120
trail that ascends 400’ to the beginning of the 4th k (summer only)
class approach. It takes 3-6 hours to get to the 5th ee
Cr
w
class. The 5th class section is difficult with heavy Sno
loads (or if fixed lines are missing) and takes an
additional 1.5-3 hours.

Descent
From the summit, hike north ~0.5 miles to the Snow
Creek Trail. From this point hike either ~3 miles east South Face  5.13a
to Highway 120 or ~7 miles down the Snow Creek
Trail to Mirror Lake.
Photo: Marek Jakubowski
 South Face VI 5.9 C2+F or 5.13b
100’ FA: July 1964 - Warren Harding, Chuck Pratt, Yvon Chouinard
11 Red Feather Ledge FFA: 1996 - Brooke Sandahl, Steve Sutton
good bivy
for 3
5.9 To Valley via
Snow Creek trail (7 Mi)
To CA HWY 120 (3 mi)
5.10 summer/fall only
5.8
no 10 150’
pro
5.5
Awesome

9 150’
bivy for 2 great bivy
12a free var
killer topout
C2 hooks 90’ 19
few beaks or 5.11 5.6
Tenaya’s big P
11a Terror arête 12a thin slab traverse
thin nuts
or C1+ 5.9 lb
3”
8 140’
Sheraton Watkins 18 110’
bivy for 3
pitches 7 and 8 1.5-4”
are circuitous, and
5.9 usually involve runouts
sweet on 5.8 / 5.9 ground. Multiple incredible!
10c hands
Rack: anchors make these pitches
more confusing.
or C1
2 Beaks: 1 ea #2, #3 5.9 mantel
Nuts: 2 ea micro, 1 ea regular offset
7 135’ Free Rack:
Cams: 2-3 ea .3-1” (3 ea Black Totem!) 17 150’ Nuts: 1 ea
5.8 Cams: 1 ea .2”
3-4 ea 1-2”
4” 2 ea .3”-.5”, 3”
2 ea 3 - 4”
Offset Cams: 2 ea awkward 3 ea .75“ - 2”
Tenaya’s flare
2 Hooks: 1 ea Grappling, Cliffhanger 120’ 6
Terror
1ea 4”
2 Camhooks: 1 ea narrow, wide 10d Offset Cams: 1 ea
or C2
10 Long Slings or Alpine Draws 16 150’
10c or C1
4” lb
4” 10d
P 5 120’ grassy flare
10c
slick pitches 3-6 10a
or C2 grassy & slippery traverse
Seido
15 100’
The lower pitches climb 4 140’ Soul Garden
a little slow due to 5.8
fun
wandering and some grassy 5.6
cracks. Don’t worry, the route 10d
5.11 or C1
loose
just gets better and more flake 12a Seido wild 13b dyno
straightforward the higher 115’ rap (leader
(harder if you’re short)
you climb! 5.8 lowers if simuling, 180’ 3
120’
second raps) 5.10 14
arden
splitter Soul G

115’ rap 5.7 Seido

35m rap does 2 watch
not reach anchor. - 250’ simulclimb 5.10 rope
You have to walk 120m haul 5.9 or C1 drag
across an easy from ground poor pro
ledge. “Pendulum Bypass”
150’ 13 12d free var.
12a
free var. 180’ to
leave haulbags ledge 5.9
here while climbing slab
to 2
1 5.12 4”
The Prism, Soul Garden
180’ rap or C1

5.9 R
Descent: 250’ easy
simulclimb 90’ 12
Hike uphill (north) for twenty to thirty Tenaya’s
Terror 5.8 R or penji left
minutes, to the summit, trending 5.6
5.9 R
slightly to the left (west) but mostly var. P
Soul
straight up. Once on the true summit, Shakedown 10b 10d fingers
best or C2
angle left (northwest), which will take way
you through some thick forest before 11

breaking into the open, and eventually Red Feather Ledge

meeting up with the Snow Creek Trail. approach
Turn left, and follow the Snow Creek Trail large, flat ledge
seven miles to Mirror Lake. In late summer,
it is much easier to hike three miles right (east) from the true summit to reach Highway 120,
on mostly gentle, open terrain. You will reach Highway 120 a half-mile before Olmstead Point,
at a large pullout with a gated dirt road.

334 | Mt. Watkins

 19 90’
12a or C1
18110’
10c or C1
17 150’

10d or C2
16 150’
10d or C1
15 100’

13b or C1
14 120’

5.10 or C1
150’ 13 12d or C1
South Face is an incredible “alpine Nose” route. 12 90’
Tucked away from the hustle and bustle of the 10b Red Feather
100’ 11
Valley proper, sporting bottom to top splitter cracks 5.8 R Ledge
5.10
a la the Nose and with several spacious bivy ledges, 10
150’ 5.5
the South Face is one of the best. It is harder than
the Regular Route on Half Dome, but not by much. 150’
9

12a or C2
It is similar in overall difficulty as the Nose. The Sheraton 8 140’
gentle hike that leads out to Mt. Watkins from Watkins 5.9
Mirror Lake is as magic as the climb. Once there, the 5.8 7 135’
6 120’
burly fourth and fifth class scramble to the base of
10c or C1
the climb rewards the light and fast. This wall is hot 5 120’

and sunny! 10c or C2

4 140’

Plan: Do not plan to leave anything at the base of 10d or C1

3 180’
this route, as the long approach makes going back
to the base to retrieve any items completely 5.8 5.10 or C1
impractical. This route definitely requires an alpine 2

approach: a stove with dehydrated food, a 12a

lightweight water filter to get water near the base, 180’ 1
5.6
and bringing only essential clothing will make your
experience more fun and less work. Day one hike
out hopefully with all your gear - and scope the
route and the fixed ropes that lead to the base,
maybe filter water at the creek below the cliff. If
possible, shuttle all your stuff to the base and bivy, up to 5.6
or bivy by the creek in the canyon. Day two climb to if fixed ropes
Sheraton Watkins or Red Feather Ledge. Day three are missing
top out and probably bivy on top, as the walk down
is long. Day four walk back to the Valley (7 miles).

The Elements/Retreat: Watkins roasts in the sun

all day long. It can be hot in the spring, but this is
not a good spring route because the deep cracks
run with water. If it is a drought year you might be
able to climb it in May, but you will know in the first
few pitches if the cracks are wet or not. Summer is
scorching so this is best as a fall route. Do not do
this route if bad weather is forecast. To retreat,
rappel the route.
Tenaya Canyon Trail
Tenaya Creek

Photo: Erik Sloan 335

 South Face FA History: Warren Harding, Chuck Pratt,
and Yvon Chouinard made the first ascent over five days
in July 1964. The team legendarily hosed themselves on
this sweltering wall by only bringing 1.5 quarts (48
ounces) of water per person per day! Still, they ran out
of water the last day as they had assumed that they
would only need four days for the climb. “Warren had
nearly fainted several times from the heat,” Pratt
remembered. Yvon was speechless with fatigue
and I was curled up in a semi-stupor trying to utilize a
small patch of shade beneath an overhang.....by the
fourth day Yvon had lost so much weight from
dehydration he could lower his climbing knickers
without undoing a single button. Warren had refused to
take water that day, as he was only hauling. Warren’s
sacrifice was a display of courage and discipline that
I have rarely seen equaled.”

FFA History: Brooke Sandahl and Steve Sutton made

the first free ascent over ten days in 1996. Incredibly, the
pair attempted to free the route onsight, ground up, just
cleaning out the cracks and free climbing as they went -
of course this meant aiding each pitch first, then
cleaning the cracks and bolting new face variations, and
then going for the redpoint. After eight days on the wall,
and having freed all but the last ninety feet - including
the 13b crux - the pair ran out of water and had to aid to
the summit. They returned a couple days later and freed
the last pitch, a devious and crimpy 5.12.

Today, most difficult wall routes like this are approached

from the top down, with extensive top-roping before a
redpoint attempt is made. Sandahl described the crux:
“It was just the coolest thing, to follow this circuitous
path up this gigantic wall and to literally have to jump
between the holds to link the bottom two-thirds of the
route with the upper third. I mean, how wild is that? One
small blank section that came so close to shutting us
down...but didn’t!”

Lance Colley and Sarah Sugarman topping out the

336 South Face, Mt. Watkins. Photo: Zachary Moon
Seth Carter and Jimmy Hayden topping out the FA of
Soul Garden, 5.13b, Mt. Watkins. Photo Andrew Burr 337
 Rack: Soul Garden VI 5.13b
Nuts: 1ea Regular and Micros FA: June 30, 2014 - Sean Leary, Jimmy Haden, Seth Carter
Cams: 2 ea .3”-3”
1 ea 4“, 5”,7” 19

12a 18

4” 12d

South
South Face 14 Face

TT

17
wild dyno
13b (harder if you’re short)

13b 5.11 ow
Seido 13

12

Sheraton South Face 12d

Watkins
7 good bivy for 2
16

5.8
11
5.11 ow
6

5.8
The 15
5 Prism
12b
11c
tight 00 cam 12b
12a
4 10
Tenaya’s
Terror 4th 14

12c
11a
9
3
5.10
12b ow “Golden Eagle”
12b
key piece for
avoiding ropedrag
long slings/ backclean

2
8

11c
11a

1
Prism belay
South Face 5.8
Route slab
180’ to South
the ground Tenaya’s Face
Terror

7
10d
Soul Garden starts on Sheraton Watkins
belay here The Prism
5.6
Approach

338 | Mt. Watkins

 19
12a 18
12d
17
5.11 ow
16
5.11 ow
15

12a
14
13b
13

“Soul Force” (13b)

12
12d
11
12b
10

11a
9

“Golden Eagle” (12b)

8

11a
Sheraton Watkins 7

5.8
6

5.8
5
12b
4

12c
3

12b ow
2

11b
1

10d

up to 5.6
if fixed ropes
are missing

Tenaya Canyon Trail

Tenaya Creek
Photo: Erik Sloan 339
 The Prism VI 5.10 A3+
FA: August 1992 - Urmas Franosch, Sean Plunkett edge of
South
Face
15

dike A3+ hooks

14

move
belay A3

7 7

13
4th

6
A3

A3

1996 Rack: Soul

Shakedown 12
1 RURP
The
8 KB 5 Tower 11
12 LA A3+
7 Angles: 3 ea 1/2”, 5/8”
1 ea 3/4”
Soul
Cams: to 5” Garden 4th
Heads A3+
or 12b
Hooks Tenaya’s
Terror 4th class
Rivet Hangers ramp 5.7
Soul
Shakedown
10
4

A2 5.9
or 12c

move
belay
9 9
3rd class
3 to top
Tenaya’s 21
A1
Terror 5.8
5.9
flare
8
5.9 A1
A1

5.9 20
A1 flare
or 5.11
2
A1
A3
5.7
A1 19
7

A2
5.10 in
right crack
5.8
Oiled Bone Dike 5.10 18
17
South Face 5.10
Route 16
1 180’ to 5.6
the ground edge of
South Face A2
slab
Bob Locke
15 Buttress
10c
Tenaya’s
Terror

5.6
Soul
Shakedown

app
roa
ch

large, flat ledge

340 | Mt. Watkins

 21
5.9 A1 20
A3
19
A2
18
A2 16 17
15 Oiled Bone Dike (5.10)
A3+
14

Soul Shakedown A3
13
A3
The Tower 11
12

5.7 A3+ Bob Locke

10

5.9
9

8
5.8
5.8 A1
7
4th
6

A3
5

12b or A3+
4

12c or A2
3

5.9 A1
2

South Face
5.10 A1

10c

up to 5.6
if fixed ropes
are missing

Tenaya Canyon Trail

Tenaya Creek

341
Quarter Domes
Quarter
Dome

Nashville
Skyline
make large switchbacks
up vegetated areas
of the slab Pegasus,
Route of All Evil

bushy
slab big obvious
white oak tree Half Dome
slab NW Face
approach

leave creekbed Mirror

at fresh talus ek
Cre informal Lake
0.5 miles aya trail
Ten
cross here Mirror Lake Loop Trail
stay in creekbed in spring
after Mt. Watkins Mirror Lake
bike rack &
restroom
2.5 miles
Snow
Mt. Watkins Creek Snow Creek
approach Switchbacks

Mt. Watkins
N
Approach
Hike east on the Mirror Lake loop trail for 1 mile until right before it crosses Tenaya Creek. Follow a
faint hiking trail on the north side of the creek, staying within a couple hundred feet of the creek-
bed for 1.5 miles until the trail brings you within a couple hundred feet of the base of Mt. Watkins.
Continue past the Watkins approach trail and stay in the creekbed for another 0.75 miles to where
the creekbed becomes wide and open and you can see the Quarter Dome 4th class approach. It
takes 3-4 hours to get to the base of the 4th class. The 4th class approach is difficult with heavy
loads and takes an additional 2-3 hours.

There is an alternate approach from the summit of Quarter Dome, via the Clouds Rest Trail. Hike up
(or down from Tenaya Lake in the summer) the Clouds Rest trail until you reach a year round spring,
a quarter mile or so after the Half Dome trail veers left. After filling your water bottles at the spring
hike cross country to the summit of West Quarter Dome. Follow the obvious gully down along the
base of the wall (one short 5.5 downclimb section or rappel). This approach is easier, and you can
stash bivy stuff at the summit before descending to the route, but isn’t as appealing from a ‘hike up
to the mountain and climb it’ sense, so is used less.

Descent
Hike southwest along the summit ridge, following rolling hills until you meet the Half Dome Trail in
the woods below the base of Sub Dome. Follow this for 7 miles to Curry Village.

www.mosesclimbing.us
Cam Hooks, Wall Tools
Tomahawks, Heads, Logan Hooks
Keyhole Rivet Hangers
Lightweight Bolt Hangers

Manufacturing quality aid climbing gear

342
 1) Nashville Skyline
2) Pegasus
3) Route of All Evil
4) Workers Revolt
1-3 5) North Face- West Quarter Dome

2 4
1
3

Photo: Mikey Sensenbach 343

 Pegasus V 5.7 A2 or 5.12
FA: September 1962 - Yvon Chouinard, Tom Frost
FFA: 1979 - Max Jones, Mark Hudon

14 95’

5.5

7 90’
p
Rack: many
fixed
angles p
10a
or A1
4 Beaks: 2 ea #2, #3 13 140’
10a 2 LAs: 1 ea #2, #3 (for original pitch 10 only) p

3 Sawed Angles: 1 ea 5/8”-1” A2

6 180’ Nuts: 1 ea inc. micro 10a NO
Cams: 4 ea .3”-1.5”
5.9
2 ea 2”-3”
1 ea 4” C2
5.8 or
fun! Camhooks 11d

5 90’ 12 140’

5.9
tension
p
5.8 1”
or
5.9
5.11 All Time
4 90’ huge reach Finger Crack

5.7 C1

10a A1 or 5.12 (crux)

3 170’ tension
dirty or 5.10 11 135’

C2
or
10d

5.7
5.8 loose
100’ 10

pp
130’ 2 5.6 face Original Route (not recommended)
belay could (12’ traverse) 5.8
use bolts
A1 arrows
10c
5.8 or 5.9
A0
90’ 9

10a/b
hands 5.7
C2F
or 10c
140’ 1
5.5 5.8 (10’ traverse)
pp
5.7 chimney

8 150’
2’ x 4’ ledge
Great
Bivy 5.8
5.3

10b

7 pp 7

"It really doesn't matter what you do, suffering, camping, 4th
humping gear, laughing with your friends, good views, climbing, 3’ x 6’ bivy ledge class
placing gear, it's all good, it's all life."
-Mark Hudon

344 | Quarter Domes

Pegasus is an awesome, full-shade adventure climb with a burly approach. The rock is less than vertical, and fairly featured
and awesomely gritty, though a few of the cracks can be grassy. The experience of being tucked away in Tenaya Canyon,
with clear views of the massive Mt. Watkins across the way make this a magical place. This is an alpine-style climb where
you are forced to go fast and light, or suffer while spending a day or two just getting to the base with heavy packs. This is
the perfect warm up for the Regular Route on Half Dome - there are ten less pitches, but the challenging approach is a few
hours longer, there is no spring at the base, and you might get off route or have to bust a couple more difficult moves.
Quarter Dome is much shadier than Half Dome, getting just an hour of sun a day!

14 95’

140’13 10a or A1
11d or C2F
12 140’
10d or C2
100’ 10
11
135’ All Time Finger
10c or 5.9 A0 Crack (5.12 or A1)
9 90’
10c or C2
8
150’
10b
7 7 90’
10a
6 180’

5.8
90’ 5 5.94 90’
10a
3 170’

5.8
130’ 2

10a/b
5.5 1 140’

Plan: Most parties hike out and fix the first pitch, and bivy at the
base. The temperature inversion in the fall is significant, so it can
be downright warm at the base of Quarter Dome as the cold
sinks down into the Valley, making it reasonable to go with a
lightweight bivy setup. Most parties go to the top on day two,
and hike over and bivy at the base of Half Dome that night, and
continue down the Slabs Approach the next morning.
The Elements/Retreat: Shade baby shade! This route is low-an-
gle, so would be very difficult in bad weather. To retreat, rappel
the route.
FA/FFA History: Yvon Chouinard and Tom Frost made the first
ascent in september 1962. Max Jones and Mark Hudon made the
first free ascent in 1979.

Photo: Mikey Sensenbach 345

Northwest Face
Half Dome

To John Muir Trail,

Yosemite Valley
via the Mist Trail Half
Sub Dome
Dome

RNWF
DNWF
Tis-sa-
ack Kali
Yuga
Bushido
Gully

to Zenith,
Bushido,
Jet Stream

Porcelain
Wall

best
descent
15’ route
rope

Approach 80’
rope
During low water, go to Mirror Lake 70’ 5.6
50 m
rap
and cross to the south side of Tenaya 5.5 rope var.

Creek before the bathrooms via easy 5.6

40’
rope
rock hopping. During high water, take
the Mirror Lake Loop Trail, starting from
the south side of Tenaya Bridge. The talus
approach trail branches off the Mirror
Lake Loop ~200’ past Mirror Lake and is sweet
marked by a dip in the trail and a large fixed
rope
flat spot

boulder on the left. Hike up 0.25 miles to

an open talus field that leads to the base
of the slabs. Continue up and right (4th fixed
class) to the base of a cliff and ascend rope

a fixed rope (5.5 if rope is missing). 30’

above the fixed rope, the trail cuts left
along a narrow catwalk. The Half Dome
trail heads left along the catwalk, and the 4th class N
Porcelain Wall trail heads right. Continue
along the catwalk to the main drainage, exposed
talus cone
following a well-cairned trail with 3 more
fixed ropes for ~1 mile to the base. take southern Mirror Lake
Loop Trail when Mirror Lake
To Curry Village,
Campgrounds
trail starts is too high to cross
across from boulder
Tenaya
Bridge
Bike to Mirror Lake,
cross at spillway when
Bathrooms Bike water is low
Rack

To the Ahw
ahnee

346 | Half Dome

 Big Sandy

2015
rockfall

Descent
Follow the hikers’ trail (cables)
down to the shoulder at the base
of Sub Dome. Walk down and left,
staying close to the base of the
wall, until you reach the base of
the Northwest Face (1-1.5 hours).
Continue down the approach.
Alternatively, follow the hiker’s
trail 8.5 miles to Curry Village.

Photo: xRez.com 347

 1,4-7,9

8
10
11

7
4
6
5

25 4

2015
2 rockfall

6
1 5
25
9
7 8

4 5,6
1) North Ridge IV 5.10d R
2) Northwest Buttress 7,8 9
3) Una Iglesia En El Cielo 10
4) Regular Northwest Face 11
5) Blue Shift
6) Arcturus
7) Same As It Never Was
8) Psychedelic Shack
9) Direct Northwest Face
10) Queen of Spades
11) Shadows

348 Photo: Taylor Sincich

 12,14

13,15-17

18,21-23

19

21-23 20, 24
14

13 19

20

15
16

24

12 19
18 23

16
15 22

13 21 22-24
20,25
19
18
15 17 12) The Vodka Putsch
13) Tis-sa-ack
14) Kali Yuga
15) The White Room
14 16) Zenith
16 17) The Big Chill
18) The Promised Land
19) Artic Sea
20) Bushido
21) The Jet Stream
13 22) Repo Man variation
23) White Trash Vacation
24) Solitary Confinement
12
25) Peripheral Vision
14,15

349
 Regular Northwest Face V 5.9 C2 or 5.12c A0
FA: June 1957 - Royal Robbins, Mike Sherrick, Jerry Gallwas
10b
FFA: 1975 - Jim Erickson, Art Higbee
tips
5.8 loose 100’
200’ to cables Visor
100’
160’
10b
downclimb
23 120’
5.7
100’ free 11 60’ mantel
variation

10b 12c 10a

loose PP or
C2
5.8
10d R 80’ 10 P P 22 90’
PP
A0 Robbins Traverse

9 100’ 12c or A0
100’
alcove C2 hook or 12a
5.9
loose
5.9+
Rack: 5.6 21 90’
5.9+ chimney
4th
120’ Nuts: 1 ea micro, regular 2-4”
8 Cams: 2-3 ea .4-1.5” Thank God 20 40’
P P
1-2 ea 2” - 3” Ledge
1 Hook: grappling 19 P
12d 120’ 12a
2 Camhooks: 1 ea narrow, wide var. or
C1
The Zig
Zags
135’ 7 P
P
link 18 & 19 10b
Gully

4th w/70m rope or

5.8 C2
PP 18 100’
5.8 bulge When Royal and team topped 12a
out of the FA of the Regular or
5.5 C1
poor bivy
for 2
Route, Warren Harding was
5.9
6 145’
the only person who hiked or 17 120’
sloping
to the summit to congratulate C1 Big Sandy bivy
ledge 5.8 for 2
5.11+ var. P
.6-3”
or them. This underscores
C1 5.7
how cool Harding was - he The
no Direct
5.9 was just pumped to see NW Face
or no! 5.9
C1 folks getting up the bigwalls! sling horn for fun
follower Double Crack
5 100’
100’
5.11 16
lb 5.9
loose Same As It
Higbee 11d Never Was
5.9 fingers var.
Dihedral
.5-
5.12 1.5” 110’
4
Huber ‘Hedral
10a 15 100’
or 11d var.
C1
11a
var.
11c or A0
Descent: 1 - 1.5 hrs to the base Blue
Shift
3 105’ Descend cables and continue down P
the stairs to the base of Sub Dome. 5.9 fist
1-3” 5.8 Skirt left around shoulder on an easy
PP 14 70’
or trail back to the start of the route.
C1
link 13 & 14 5.9 squeeze
w. 55m rope or 5.7 stem(stay further out)
100’ 2
P 5.5

5.9
Arcturus
P
P
13 100’ Note: Pitches 12-22
or P
have many fixed pieces
C1
.5-2” 5.7
chimney
P 1 160’ Blue
5.11 Shift 12 160’
11c
var. Direct NW or
10c
or Face C2
C1
Same As It P
Arcturus Never Was P loose flake
5.8 P
or Crescent
C1 Crack 5.5 mantel
loose In 2015, 200 ft (60m) of
the route fell off here!
0.5 miles to spring 11
Half Dome
Trail
Best to bivy bivy
away from base
as HD is known
for rockfall

350 | Half Dome

 120’ 23
5.8
90’ 22 Thank God Ledge
The Regular Route is the summer to fall alpine 12c or C2 90’ 21
20 40’
prize of the Valley. Shady, and half a mile 19 120’
5.9+ chimney
vertically above the Valley floor, the vibe here is
12a or C1
magically chill; the climbing is natural and
100’ 18 The Zigzags
moderate. The view up unfettered Tenaya
12a or C1
Canyon adds to the remote, heavenly feeling,
120’ 17 Big Sandy
and the fresh water spring at the base is the
icing on the cake! 100’ 16 5.9
5.9
While many pitches are rated 5.9 or easier, The 15 100’
Reg is much harder than South Face of the 5.9 fist
14 70’
Column. Not an epic sandbag, it’s just a route 5.9 squeeze
that makes you bust mandatory free moves, 100’ 13 The Chimneys
traverse all over, and navigate some loose rock 5.7
compared to say, straight up Jam Crack. 12 160’
Climbing Royal Arches to South Face of North 11c or C2
Dome is a starter training day for Half Dome, 60’ 11 Robbins Traverse
and should be an easy day; linking the East 80’ 10 (10a or C2)
Buttress of Middle Cathedral to the Northeast 5.9+
Buttress of Higher Cathedral is solid training for 4th class 9 100’
Half Dome in a day. Of course climb both routes 120’ 8
first - NEB is a stout day in its own right your Plan: In season, this is one of the busiest routes in
first time. For sure climb the South Face of the 135’ 7 the Valley. Approaching the wall before noon while
Column first - no matter how many days you the approach is in the shade, and fixing a couple
5.8
are planning on Half Dome - to dial in your aid pitches and getting a feel for the climbing and how
6 145’
climbing and jugging. You can even jug with a many parties are climbing, is the best plan. Plenty
small pack to get a feel for it. of parties fix and then go all the way to the summit
5.9 or C1
the next day, walking back down to the base late to
5 100’

5.9 fingers reach your comfy sleeping bag and fresh spring
4 110’ water. Lots of other parties bring space blanket bivy
10a tight hands sacs, lightweight inflatable pads and puffy jackets,
11c or A0 Bolts and spend a night on Big Sandy ledge. For those
3 105’
going slower, The Reg is the route where the new
5.8 or C1 G7 inflatable portaledges will shine - you get a
2 100’ plush sleeping pad and portaledge in one!
5.9 or C1
The Elements/Retreat: HD is in the shade until
160’ 1
mid-afternoon. Afternoon thunderstorms happen
10c or C1 every year, though not every day like they do say
on the Diamond in Colorado, and should not be
taken lightly. The base of HD is almost seven
thousand feet and the summit almost 9,000 ft! -
snow or hail is possible during a storm event in the
summer. Climb Prepared! All but the fastest
climbers should bring a synthetic puffy jacket, in
case you move slower than expected or there is
a storm.
To retreat rappel the route, some penjis may
be required.

Photo: Taylor Sincich 351

 Free Regular Northwest Face V 5.12c A0
FFA: 1975 - Jim Erickson, Art Higbee
FA: June 1957 - Royal Robbins, Mike Sherrick, Jerry Gallwas

200’ to cables Visor

Rack:
24 120’
Nuts: 1 ea micro 5.7
Cams: 2 ea .4”-3” mantel

5.8
PP 23 90’

12c

flake 4” heinous
12a
look closely for 10b
tips 22 90’
traverse 5.9
12 100’
5.8 loose chimney 2-4”
21 90’
100’ 11 160’ Thank God
10b Ledge
not this downclimb
corner P
13 12d 12a
100’ 10 var.
135’ 7 20 70’
P
12c 10a
10b
loose no PP or link 18 & 19 Zig
5.8 80’ C2 w/60m rope Zags
10b
10d R PP

5.8 bulge A0 Robbins Traverse PP 19 100’

9 100’ 100’
5.5 12a
poor bivy
for 2
6 165’ 5.9
sloping loose 5.9
ledge 5.8 4th
Regular Route 18
.6-3” 120’ Big Sandy bivy
P for 2
8
P P
5.9 The
5.7 Direct
no NW Face
5.11
lb 5.9
Same As sling horn for fun
It Never follower Double Crack
Was
135’ 7 P 100’
5 P
11d 17
Higbee 5.9
var. 4th
Dihedral loose
.5- 5.8
5.12 1.5” 110’ Same As It
Never Was
4 Huber ‘Hedral

11c 11d var.

tiny nuts
16 100’

3 105’ Blue
Shift
P
1-3” 5.8 This topo is specifically for the free climbers,
5.9 fist
who use a different variation for pitches
9 - 13. P P 15 170’
100’
2
P 5.5 5.9 squeeze
or 5.7 stem
Arcturus
5.9 P
.5-2” P
100’
Note: Pitches 14-21
P have many fixed pieces
P 1 160’ Blue 5.7
Shift chimney
5.11
10c var. Direct NW
Face 14 160’
11c
Same As It or
Never Was C2
Arcturus
5.8 P
Crescent
Crack P loose flake
P

0.5 miles to
Half Dome
spring
loose
5.5 mantel
Descent: 1 hr
Trail Best to bivy Descend cables and continue down
away from base bivy
as HD is known
13 the stairs to the base of Sub Dome.
for rockfall Skirt left around shoulder on easy
trail back to the start of the route.
352 | Half Dome
Dean Potter in the Zigzags
Photo: Jimmy Chin
 Climb Half Dome! (RNWF Beta)
What is the best strategy for first time (5.10 or lower) climbers on RNWF?
A team of two with the second climber jugging with a small pack.

The biggest mistake most climbers make is thinking that the second will be able to
follow rather than jug. This is too difficult with a heavy pack (two jackets, lots of
food and water, headlamps, approach shoes).

Stoked to have my Glad I have some

comfy free shoes on! water on me!

Day 1: Approach and Fix pitches (4-6 hours)

First, take the paved trail to Mirror Lake. When the

water is low, continue all the way to the Lake and
cross at the bathrooms. When the water is high,
you’ll need to take the Mirror Lake Loop trail to the right
immediately before the Tenaya Creek Bridge (which is a
half mile before Mirror Lake). Study the approach map
and description on page 346.

Hike up the Slabs (which are strenuous but not scary)

in the late morning shade - sun hits the approach around
noon. Bring a tent or hooped bivy sac, sleeping bags,
empty water bottles as there is a fresh water spring at
the base, and tons of food in a bear canister.
Fix the first two pitches (70m), make a huge dinner,
bask in the high country glory, and go to sleep early.
Meet the other climbers and come up with a staggered
start time. Be strategic - let someone start before
you that appears to be much stronger, or who has done
the route before, but be sure to poke your head out of
your tent and make sure that they are actually
starting. If not, get after it!
354
Day 2: Climb!
If you fixed pitches, start jugging at least an hour before
daylight. Otherwise, it is best to start just as it is getting
light. Have fun! Slower parties spend a sometimes brutal
night at Big Sandy or hopefully you can push through to
the top. The descent is just an hour back to the base of
the climb. Before you know it you will be back in your
warm sleeping bag, so really enjoy the summit!
Day 3: Walk down the Slabs to your car (2-3 hours)
Make sure you get a wilderness permit and bear canister from
the Wilderness Center in Yosemite Village before your climb!
Will Stanhope and Jesse Huey near the topout of the
RNWF Free, 12d, Half Dome. Photo: Austin Siadak
 Direct Northwest Face VI 5.14a or 5.10 C2+ or 5.9 A2+
FA: June 1963 - Royal Robbins, Dick McCracken
FFA: 1992 - Todd Skinner

17 100’
Rack: 8 115’
3 Beaks: 1 ea #1-#3 5.8 chimney
3 LAs: 1 ea #1-#3 First
Nuts: 2 ea micro, regular (inc. offsets) Terrace
C2
Cams: 2-3 ea .3”-3” or 12a The Direct is a much more challenging,
2 ea 4” and is more of a traditional bigwall, 80’ 16 horn
1 ea 6” micronuts
climb than the Regular Route next to
Offset Cams: 2 ea it. The rock is looser here, so the going
Hooks: all inc. large is slower. As of 2021, there were still 5.9
7 100’
Camhooks good mostly original bolts, except for those
bivy p
added for free variations. p
p 15 100’ belay takes
1-2”
5.8

5.8 fingers-hands
.25-4”
200’ to cables Visor dirty

100’ 6
5.7 24 120’ 14 80’ belay takes 1-2”
mantel
C2
C1 roof or 12 b
or 10b
thin
5.9 5”
fingers
5.8 5.7 chimney NO!
PP 23 90’
5 140’ belay takes .4-3” belay takes
100’ 13 .5-1”
C1 or
10c steep hands
C2 hook or 12a C1 or
11b awk
.75-5”
5.6 22 90’
5.9+ .4-4”
chimney2-4” 5.7 chimney
21 90’
Thank God
Ledge
4 145’ 3 raps to 12 100’ belay takes 2-3”
ground
from 4 chimney
P
12d 12a 11d steep hands or
var. or C2+ awk
C1 12b or
20 70’ C2 go up bad bolts and
large pendulum or hard
hook C2+ dirty
link 19 & 20 Zig tension left, low
w. 60m rope Zags 3 190’ 11 80’
10b
or cam hooks
C2 5.7 R
PP p C2 thin
19 100’ p or 12c 5.11+
var. tension
p tension traverse, 5.9 or A1
12a hooks
or Grand
C1 80’
80’ 10 Terrace
5.9 80’
or
C1
18
14a 150’ to next dirty sweet bivy for 3+
slab station
Big Sandy bivy
for 2 4-6” 5.6
The 120’
Regular 5.8 110’ 2 9
Route blocky 5.4
chimney
Crescent Arch thin!
17
5.12 or A2+

10a or C1
160’ 5.6
to ground “Bongo Talker”
RNWF belay takes
1 160’ .75-3” 13b

Best to bivy Same As It 8

away from base Never Was
Blue 5.7 C1+
as HD is known Shift Arcturus
for rockfall or
11a lb/ow

.3-5”

spring Robbins and McCracken wore helmets on the

0.5 miles to
Half Dome bivy FA of this climb. A first in Yosemite history.
Trail Tommy Caldwell did the second free ascent in
2007.

356 | Half Dome

 120’ 24
5.8
90’ 23 Thank God Ledge
12c or C2 90’ 22
21 40’

5.9+ chimney 20 120’

12a or C1
100’ 19 The Zigzags
12a or C1
120’ 18 Big Sandy
5.8
17 120’
RNWF
5.8
80’ 16
5.9
15 100’

5.8
14 80’
12b or C2
13 100’

11b or C1
12 100’

11d or C2+
80’ 11 5.9 A0 (tension traverse)
11+ var. 10 80’ Great Terrace
100’ 9 5.6
A2+
115’ 8 13b
12a First Terrace
or C2

7 100’
5.8
6 100’

10b or C1
5 140’

10c or C1

4 145’
12b or C2
3 190’

12b or C2

14a var. C2
2 110’
Crescent Arch
10a or C1
1 160’

5.7 C1+
or 11a/b ow

Photo: Taylor Sincich 357

 Tis-sa-ack VI 5.8 A2
FA: October 1969 - Royal Robbins, Don Peterson
C2 reachy 15 175’
hook and 5.7 mantel
or A2 Beak Club Joy Ledge
bivy for 2
8 105’ 190’ 21
C2 hooks or 5.7 5.11 or
stance C2
shuttle
gear
C1
7”
5.5

5.9 or
7 155’ C2 awk
5.8 move
nice hanging
125’ 20
1-2” bivy 150’ 14 pp Twin Flame Ledge
p
C1 or 12a A2 steep!
really bad bolt p p
The Moai “The (Relationship) Maze” no
“Human Symbiosis” C2
1 + 1 = Infinity .3-4”
C1 Rack: circuitous
75’ many 1-2” 4-5 Beaks: mostly #3
The Zebra 2 KBs: 2ea #5 160’ 19
many 1.75-3” C2
3 LAs: 1 ea #3, #5, #6
2” 6” 2 Angles: 1 ea 1/2”, 5/8”
C1 or 12a Nuts: 1 ea 5.10
loose or C1
Cams: 3 ea .4-1” .4-2”
13 155’
4-6 ea 1.5-2”
5.8 and C1
A2 or C3
4”
(#1, #2 Camalots)
camhooks
2 ea 3”, 4”, 6”, 8”
6 50’ C3
Offset Cams: 1-2ea or A2
C2 loose
4 Heads: 2 ea #2, #3
bad bolt
5.9 flakes Hooks: 1 ea (inc. 3”)
1-5” Camhooks 120’ 18
C1 3 Rivet Hangers
5.7
6” many more
cramped belay 12 125’ bolts than
5 90’ WARNING: The flake above Sunset Ledge shown
3” is a very large flake that moves when climbed
C2 on. The end of pitch 12 is, as of 2018,
6” wide sandy crack...the bit off of the belay “Steel Therapy”
C2 dirty is a chimney. The whole feature
link pitches 4 and 5
p w/ 60 m rope is extremely dangerous.
4 90’
17 120’
A1 Beaks

Vodka A2 Beaks Zenith

5.8 R (beaks for pro)
Putsch

3 110’
11 35’ A2 or C3
haul 165’ wide cam hooks
from ground Dormitory Sunset Ledge 8” (only place you need
great bivy for 3 3’X5’ ledge two #6s)
C2 alcove C1
“Honeymoon 10 150’ 155’ 16
Dreams” stance stance
4” 6”
5.9+ loose bad rope drag
2 110’ C2
better
way A2 Kali
Yuga C3+ or A2

5.7 beauty C2+

Vodka 15 The Ramp Kali

Putsch 125’ 9 C4 or A2 Yuga
stance
1 230’ Twilight Ledge 5”
C2+ or 5.10 C1 C2 loose
.4-5” “Unrequited Love” “Meeting
the Parents”

5.9 move Vodka

Putsch

4th
Tis-sa-ack and her husband were a pair of footsore travelers who
arrived in Yosemite. Tis-sa-ack found a lake and drank all of the
You can belay here with a 70m rope
8
water before her husband could get any. This ignited a vicious
quarrel that angered the Great Spirit. As punishment for their
marital issues, the Great Spirit turned Tis-sa-ack and her
husband into Half Dome and North Dome, respectively.

358 | Half Dome

 Tis-sa-ack is a mega-classic and is mostly cruiser. It’s like a
double-length Prow - a few technical pitches are surrounded
21 190’ by cruiser cam cracks and solid bolt ladders - most bolts
replaced in 2015. Unfortunately, as of 2021 it has a
5.8
20 125’ dangerous section in the middle of the route (see topo),
which will have to be changed by motivated climbers - it’s
The Maze (A2)
probably gonna take a team rapping in and establishing an
160’ 19 alternative to pitches twelve and thirteen. The rest of the
route is amazing, alpine bliss climbing! The Zebra!
C3 or A2
Plan: Give yourself a day and half to hike two loads to the
120’ 18
base, get water from the spring by the base of the Regular
“Steel Therapy” (A2)
Route - a 20 minute walk from the route to the spring - and
camp at the base with a pitch or three fixed. Even if you only
17 120’
fix one pitch you will want to haul from pitch three - one rope
C4 or A2 over to the base of the wall. Most parties spend four nights
175’ 16 Club Joy Ledge on the wall. Plan the same, two-load approach, to the
C2
descent. With a moderate load, returning down the Slabs
155’ 15 approach is reasonable.
C2
150’ 14 The Moai The Elements/Retreat: Tis-sa-ack, which follows dark
C2
streaks, seeps in the spring and is not a good place in a
A2 or C3
13 155’ storm. To retreat rappel the route, some downaiding and
penjis required.
12 125’
C2 Sunset Ledge
FA History: Royal Robbins and Don Peterson completed the
C2 35’
11

10 150’
first ascent in October 1969 - Robbins had attempted the
route the year before with Dennis Henneck and Chuck Pratt,
C2+ but they came down after eight pitches because of slow
125’ 9 Twilight Ledge drilling on the blank sections.
C2
Robbins, who eschewed Bathooks as poor style - they are,
8105’ because they erode and break, often at the worst times - was
C2
forced to drill shallow holes and reuse many bolts at the end
7 155’
of the route, as the blank sections were longer than
The Zebra (12a or C1)
anticipated. I replaced most of these bolts.
6 50’

C2
Tis-sa-ack is the climb of which Robbins famously stated, “It’s
5 90’ a route worth bolting for.” But other FA ists should
C2 act differently. He had said that no route should require more
4 90’
than a hundred bolts, but this one was worth it because the
5.8 R and A1
climbing was so classic. This seemingly innocent statement
110’ 3 The Dorm by the 40-year-old Robbins would be repeatedly cited
5.9+ decades later by FA ists who drilled hooks instead of rivets
2 110’
and installed vertical belays to cover more ground without
5.7
adding more bolts, trying to make their route ‘worthy’ by
1 230’

C2+ or 5.10 C1 drilling fewer than a hundred holes. Climbers are so silly!

Check out Robbins colorful history of the FA:

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/1219700
0700/Tis-sa-ack
Photo: Taylor Sincich 359
 The Kali Yuga VI 5.10 A4
FA: October 1989 - John Middendorf, Walt Shipley
17

A3
wild pitch
through roofs!
9 16

1989 Rack:
A3-
3 RURPs
5.6
5 Beaks chimney
20 KBs
18 LAs A2
5 Bugaboos: long 5.9
The Monster’s Mouth
Ball Nuts: 1 set AKA The Elephant 15
A2+
9 Angles: 3 ea 1/2”, 5/8”
black A3+
1 ea 1”-1 1/2” streak
Cams: 2-3 ea .4-4” 8

35 Heads “Snoopy”
Hooks: inc. large and pointed 5.10
10 Keyhole Hangers A3+ 14

Vodka A3+
Putsch
Note: All rivets 5/16” machine 7
bolts. Belay bolts are 5/16”
button heads or 3/8” machine bolts “The Maze”

13
.
A4

6
A4
The Angel
Tis-sa-ack

12
The Ramp
A3+
The Zebra Tis-sa-ack

5 A3
A3

A3+
11

Lower part of the route,

primarily pitches 3, 4, and 6 , 4 A2+
affected by a series of rockfalls.
4”

A3 10

5.9

A1 A3+
Tis-sa-ack The
2 5.7 White
180’ Room big swing!
A2+ 1

9
brown 5.7
streaks

200’
Zenith
fresh talus 300’

In Hinduism, the Kali Yuga (or "Age of the Demon") is the last of
blocky slab
four stages the world regularly cycles through.

360 | Half Dome

 17

A3
16

A3-
15

A3+
Snoopy
14

A3+
13

A4
12

A3
11

A2+

10

A3+
9 The Monster’s Mouth

A2+
8

A3+
7

“The Maze”
A4

A3+ The Angel

4
A3+
A3
3

A1
2

A2+
1
180’

5.7

Photo: Taylor Sincich 361

 9
The Promised Land VI 5.8 A4
FA: September 1989 - Kevin Fosburg, Jeff Hornibrook, Troy Johnson 300’
3rd class
slabs
A2

“Drill For 1989 Rack: 15

The Thrill” 15 KBs

A2
15 LAs
The 5 ea Baby Angles Jet
Big Stream
Chill Nuts
Cams: 3 ea to 4”
Heads: many
8 Hooks: all types 14
“Have A
Cigar”
A4
A2

13

A2+

A2

6 12

“Pearly Gate”
A4
A3

11

slab A3

A3+
exp

Arctic
4 Sea 10

A2

5.6
Arctic
Promised Land was repeated in Sea A3
the early 2000s by El Cap 3
aces Dave Turner and Josh
Thompson. They both felt the White Trash Vacation,
Jet Solitary Confinement
route to be one of the best they had A3 “The Riptide” Stream
9
ever done. It’s hard to differentiate
because the ratings look similar, 2
but this route is much harder than green Arctic Bushido light dark
lichen Sea
Zenith, the old classic. A4 hooks
rock rock
1

A3+
“The
"It is a crest of granite... perfectly inaccessible, being French
smooth Fry”
probably the only one of the prominent points about dark
Yosemite which never has been, and never will be, rock
trodden by human foot." yellow lichen
on pillar
- CA Geological Survey about Half Dome (1865)

large
white flake
150’ to Zenith
3rd class
Ledge

362 | Half Dome

 140’ 15
A2
160’ 14

A2
13 150’
A2
150’ 12

A3
11 150’

A3+
150’ 10

A3
150’ 9

“Drill for the Thrill” (A2)

150’ 8
“Have a Cigar” (A4)
160’ 7

A2+

160’ 6 The Pearly Gate

A4
150’ 5
A3
150’ 4
A2
150’ 3 A3
150’ 2
A4 1 160’
A3+
The French Fry

Photo: Taylor Sincich 363

 9 160’
A4 Space Ledge Zenith VI 5.8 A4
FA:1978 - Jim Bridwell, Kim Schmitz
bad rivets
110’ 17
Space Flake 2011 Rack:
many .5-2” A2+ 3 RURPs
C2+ exp 9 Beaks: 3 ea #1-#3
exp 1-4”
Tis-sa-ack 5.7 10 KBs: 2 ea #2-#6
10 LAs: 1 ea #1, #4
Orange Beak
8 120’ 16 140’ 3 ea #2, #3
1 ea #5, #6
4 Angles: 2 ea 1/2”, 5/8”
A2+ blades
4 Sawed Angles: 2 ea 3/4”, 1”
The
White Nuts: 2 ea regular, offset micro
5.6 A3 exp
Room Cams: 3 ea .3-2”
.5-1”
2 ea 2.5-4.5”
few .5-1.5” Offset Cams: 1-2 ea
9 Heads: 3 ea #2-#4
7 150’
4 Circleheads
The
White 150’ 15 A3 Hooks: 2 ea (inc. large)
Room Camhooks
A4 fixed junk
blades 10 Rivet

.5-1.5” A2+
exp
165’ 14

190’ 21

6 110’

A2
micronuts
C1 &
.5-5” arrows 5.8 move
125’ 20
5”
The Maze
steep!
C1 A2 .5-2”
belay takes
5 130’ 13 130’ cams .5-2”,
angles
5.7
4 110’
5.7 A2
.5-3” A2+
.5-5”
A4 A4 160’ 19
140’ 3 A3

good bivy
for 2 5.10
12 140’ or C1
A4

A3R
C3
.5-2” or A2
A3 heads
2 100’

120’ 18
A3 .5-2” .75” cam
only piece on pitch
The
Big 11 120’
belay takes Chill
.5-2” A2
blades
125’ 1
little white many more
C2 roof large fallen C1+ bolts than
.5-2” flake awk shown
hole
40’ .5-3”
tension 17
or 3rd class ledges
recommended 200’ from
5.8 R start of 130’ 10
slabs
A2 .5-4”
300’ of
5.6 ledges

slabs big The White

flake Room
A2
Kali Yuga
300’ Entrance to talus 9
Bushido Gully

364 | Half Dome

 190’ 21
5.8
125’ 20
The Maze (A2) Zenith is the classic moderate aid route on Half Dome’s
160’ 19 wild right side. Established in the 70s, Zenith follows
mostly natural features, and is known for its miles of
A0
beautiful thin cracks. Nonetheless, the long approach and
120’ 18
expanding nature of all the routes on HD mean it is a step
up from a similarly-rated route on El Cap. Alpine paradise!
110’ 17 Zenith is about as hard technically as Iron Hawk but is
A2+ more involved.
16 140’

Tis-sa-ack The Orange Beak (A3) Plan: Give yourself a day and half to hike two loads to the
150’ 15 base, get water from the spring by the base of the
A4
Regular Route (a 20 minute walk), and camp at the base
14 165’ with a pitch or three fixed. Most parties spend five or six
A2 nights on the wall. Plan the same two-load carry on the
130’ 13 descent. With a moderate load, returning down the Slabs
A3 approach is reasonable.
12 140’

A3 The Elements/Retreat: Zenith gets sun from mid-after-

11 120’ noon till sunset. This route is fairly protected during a
A2 storm, though the topout would be wet. To retreat rappel
10 130’ the route, some downaiding and penjis required.
A2
Space Ledge FA History: Jim Bridwell and Kim Schmitz made the first
Space Flake (A4) 9
160’ ascent in June 1978. Bridwell had tried the route with
120’ 8 Dale Bard earlier that year - in March when the storms
A2+ tend to hit - but they bailed because of falling ice.
150’ 7 Bridwell and Schmitz had climbed together a bunch,
A2+ having established the Aquarian Wall on El Cap in 1971.
Like many 70s climbers, Schmitz remembers Bridwell
110’ 6
coaching him on how to make difficult gear placements
C1
while on lead.
130’ 5 A2+
4 110’
140’ 3 A4 In 1978, Ray Jardine had just invented the cams he called
A4 Friends, and Bridwell was lucky enough to score a few of
2 100’

A3 the early models to take on the wall. Where in the past

1 125’

5.8 R or C2
Half Dome had been known as an expanding nailing
nightmare, cams made many of the cracks significantly
easier. “Friends really took the bite out of Half Dome,”
remembered Bridwell.

The climbing went smoothly, and the two stood on the

summit after six days on the wall - a solid time even for
today to repeat the route!

Photo: Taylor Sincich 365

 The Jet Stream VI 5.9 A4
FA: September 1989 - Sean Plunkett, Bill Russell

10
300’
3rd class
slabs
12
6
KBs
White Trash
A4 exp Vacation
Promised A3
Land A3 &
5.9 mantels

5.8

9
Arctic hooks,
11
Sea heads A3+
loose
exp A2+
A2 hooks & 5
The bathooks 1-3”
Mastodon A3
4-6”
storm bivy 8
“The Groaner”
Arctic
Sea “Fractured Flake”
Don't touch the top!

10

A4 Bushido
The 4
Maw
7

Dead Fly
Bushido nuts exp Flake “Track II”
loose A3
A3+
hooks

use long
runners A4

6 3
165’
A3

Half Dome is infamous for its expanding flakes. Loose flakes happen for several reasons:
1) Half Dome sticks up above the elevation of the last glaciers, so its surface
has had more time to weather than many other valley walls.
2) Half Dome’s rock does not have deep natural joints that can move
and relieve stress (pressure within the rock).......accumulated stress
gets relieved by shallow flakes popping off the side of the cliff.
165’ 2

The
1996 Rack: Skyscraper

8 RURPs A2+ White Trash Vacation,

Beaks Solitary Confinement
20 KBs
20 LAs
12 Angles: 4 ea 1/2”, 5/8” Bushido
light dark
2 ea 3/4”, 1” Arctic rock rock
3 Leepers Sea
The 1
Nuts: many Promised
Cams: 3 ea 1-3” Land
5.9+
2 ea 3.5-4”
1 ea 6” smooth
“The
20 Heads dark
rock French
Hooks: all types Fry”
2 Camhooks: 1 ea narrow, wide
8 Keyhole Hangers
10 Rivet Hangers
large
white flake
150’ to Zenith
3rd class
Ledge

366 | Half Dome

 12
5.9
A3
11
A2+
The
Promised
10

Land
A4
9

The Mastodon A2
8

The Maw A4
7

Dead Fly Flake

A3+
6

A3+
5

A3
4

A4 “Track II”
3 165’
A3 The Skyscraper
165’ 2
A2+
1

5.9

Photo: Taylor Sincich 367

South Face
Half Dome
Cables
Route

Lost South
Again Face / Karma
Growing
Cataclysmic Up
Megashear ~100 yards past
To Snake cedar grove, look
Dike for faint trail
cut up to climb contouring west
after 2nd exposed
slab move
entire approach very bushy
great forest bivy
look for faint trail & small cairns many large
cedar trees
aim for grove of large pine trees slab

Approach: 2.5 - 4.5 hrs. Park at the Wilderness Cut towards the South Face
Parking lot east of Curry Village. Walk ten minutes on an informal trail that starts sea
~ 0.5 miles past LYV bathrooms son
to Happy Isles, and follow the super popular Mist al s
tre
Trail. For Snake Dike, turn left onto a climber’s am
trail at Liberty Cap (three miles up Mist trail),
and continue cross country to Lost Lake, and sunny exposed
up exposed slabs to the base. For the other switchbacks

Lost routes stay on the John Muir (Half Dome)

Lake trail until you can cut over to the face on
a faint trail through brush.

bathroom
Distance from the top of
:
Nevada Falls to Happy Isles: Little
4.1 miles via John Muir Trail Yosemite
2.6 miles via Mist Trail Valley
Liberty
Mt. Broderick Cap

Merced River

Snake Dike John Muir Trail

approach
stay high longer than Mist Trail,
follow informal trail & cairns but far less steep
Nevada
Fall
To The Valley N

Mist Trail
Descent:
3 - 5 hours. Hike east along the summit
to the cables, and descend. Hike eight miles
to Happy Isle via the John Muir and Mist trails.

To The Valley

368
 Photo: Roger Putnam

5 4
3
2

6
1

4
5

3 4 5
2
1

1) Cataclysmic Megasheer
2) Lost Again
3) Growing Up
4) South Face
5) Southern Belle
6) Karma (no topo)

Photo: Kristal Leonard 369

 South Face VI 5.8 A3
8
FA: July 1970 - Warren Harding, Galen Rowell

3rd
holes
&
bolts
Rack: 15

10 Beaks 18 A2 exp
12 LAs: 3ea #1-4
Sawed Angles: 1 ea 1”-1 1/2” black
bivouac
7
Nuts water 14
groove
“The Great Cams: 1 ea to .3“ -.75”
A3 Escape Hatch” 2 ea 1-4” loose 5.8
17
block
1 ea 4-6”
5.8
Hooks (inc. bathooks)
bombay Rivet hangers
chimney
3/8” Keyhole Hangers
many
13
holes
100’ 6
5 ropes
to ground

A2 A2+
16
A3
Southern
Belle
100’ 5

A2 exp
12 The Ledge

3.5”
12a 15 10a
or A2
11d
holes
&
4 100’ bolts
11a

12c 5.9
or A2
steep! The Tri-Clops
11
5.9
Southern
3 140’ Belle

11c holes
or A2 &
rivets
11a

A2

10
11a
or A2 5.9
thin
A3
120’ 11a
2

5.10 5.6
Southern 1st
Growing Belle bivy
Up Pothole 9 Southern
10c Belle
or
A2
10a

holes
180’ 1 Frying Pan
Ledge
8 5.7

100’

5.9 11a Harding and Rowell first attempted the South Face in November 1968.
hands South
Face They were caught in a winter storm, and were suddenly bivied in the middle
Direct
Lost Again Start of an icy river. Using a walkie-talkie they radioed for help, and what followed
100’
was the first Yosemite rescue off of a bigwall. A helicopter flew to the summit
carrying several rescuers, a long rope, and supplies to get the men warm. The
rescuers fixed the rope, Royal Robbins rappelled down it and helped the men
jumar up to safety. Wowza!

370 | Half Dome

 18

A1
17

A2+
16

A2
15

A2
14

A1 South Face is a diamond in the rough, for

13 sure. (I haven’t done it but talked to a couple
A3
friends who have, who raved about it). The
The Ledge 12 setting is pristine, and with time the original
A1 bathook holes can be replaced by bolts. A
The Tri-Clops bunch of bolt replacement was done around
11
2013, but didn’t deal with the bathooks. The
A2
South Face is super sunny but is more of a
10
fall climb (or early summer) because the
A3
approach and first third of the route can be
9
wet and treacherous in the spring.
10a and A1
8

7
A1
A3

100’ 6
A2

100’ 5

12a
or A2
100’ 4
12c
orA2
140’ 3
11c
orA2
120’ 2
10c
orA2
180’ 1

5.9

Photo: Roger Putnam 371

Sean Jones and Sarah Watson on the
FA of Growing Up. Photo: Shawn Reeder
 GrowingUp
Growing UpVI
VI5.13a
5.13aA0
A0
FA:July
FA: July2007
2007- -Sean
SeanJones,
Jones,Sarah
Sarah Watson
Watson

11c 12
11c
13 A0 10 13a
12c dike 100’
11 12b
tension 10c sustained
lb
5 ropes from 13
to ground 100’ 9

21 90’ 12a

5.7 10b

20 100’
90’ 8

200’ 16
10b 12c/d

7 90’
19 150’

10c
“Awesome 12a
Pitch” wide
sustained 10”
5.10 & 5.10+
sloping
lb

70’ 6

200’ 15 12a
11a 12a
18 200’ 70’ 5

11c 11b
11d

4 90’
sustained
5.10 & 5.11 60’ of A0
12a
14

17 200’ 110’ 3
10c

11b

13
South
sustained Face Southern
Belle
5.10 & 5.11
Rack:
Cams: 2 ea 00 TCU to 2” 100’ 2

1 ea 3”, 4”
19 Quick Draws (half alpine) 12a
thin
16
Frying Pan
Growing Up follows epically splitter corners Ledge
to beautiful, featured slab. The crux seems
to be that you have to lug a portaledge or a 100’ 1

ton of ropes up there, because It is too long

for most folks to do in a day, and the
5.9 11a
traversing nature of the crux pitch makes it hands South
Face
difficult to practice (without a ledge and / Direct
or ample time). Start

373
Porcelain Wall

Direct Northwest Face, pitch 9. Photo: Erik Sloan

Approach
Refer to the Half Dome Approach Map on page 346. During low water, go to Mirror Lake and cross
to the south side of Tenaya Creek before the bathrooms via easy rock hopping. During high water,
take the Mirror Lake Loop Trail, starting from the south side of Tenaya Bridge. The approach trail
branches off the Mirror Lake Loop ~200’ past Mirror Lake and is marked by a dip in the trail and
a large boulder on the left. Hike up 0.25 miles to an open talus field that leads to the base of the
slabs. Continue up and right (4th class) to the base of a cliff and ascend a fixed rope (5.5 if rope is
missing). 30’ above the fixed rope the trail cuts left along a narrow catwalk. The Half Dome trail
heads left along the catwalk, and the Porcelain Wall trail heads right. Walk right to a short fixed
rope (5.4 if missing) that leads to a talus field. Climb 1000’ of talus to the base of the cliff. 3-4 hours
from Curry Village.

Descent
Hike east ~0.5 mile until you intersect the Snake Dike approach trail. Reverse this trail down some
3rd class slabs to Lost Lake. Follow the Snake Dike shortcut down between Liberty Cap and Mt.
Broderick to join the Mist Trail. If there is snow, hike east along Lost Lake until you join the John
Muir Trail. Follow either trail to Curry Village. 3-5 hours.

374 | Porcelain Wall

 1

4,5
6

6
8

1) Luminescent Wall
2) Sky is Falling
3) Direct Northwest Face
4) Harding Route (no topo)
5) When Hell was in Session
3 6) Strange World
7) Sargantana
5
8) House of Cards

8
1
4

2 3

4-6
8
7
Photo: Taylor Sincich
375
 Direct Northwest Face V 5.7 A3
FA: Feb. 2012 - Richie Copeland, Erik Sloan

shuttle sandy 45’ 12

best bivy spot
gear bivy
Diving A2 beaks Paradise Ledge
Board

190’ 7
14 50’
11 195’
A3 pins H.R.

5.6

p
No5.7 A2
170’ 13 beaks
1’x3’ ledge
The
“Where all Cemetery
good rocks go 3” piece
to die”
5.6 Sky is
another 100’
bivy spot 6 Harding Falling
10 180’
Route
good bivy for 1 A2
beaks
When Hell
C2 Was in
.3-1.5” Session
115’
5 1.5”
C1 Sky is A2 beaks
stance
Falling
50-55m 12
link 5 & 6
w/ 70m rope

3’’-5”
C2
5.9+ or
C1
Rack: 3”
4 140’ C1 9 Beaks: 1 ea #1 130’ 9
flake
few 1”-2” 4 ea #2, #3 The Midway
Climb this large Papa Pine 2 KBs: long
pine tree for forty camhook nice bivy for 2 (out of view)
feet with two 5.6 5 LAs: 1 ea #2 move
prusiks made 2 ea #3, #4 link 8 & 9
out of rope. w. 70m rope
4” 4 Angles: 2 ea 1/2”, 5/8”
pass C2 loose
haul line Nuts: 1 ea
around 3 160’
trees Cams: 2 ea .3-4.5”
Hooks: 1 ea
Camhooks (only thick)
90’ 8
2 Rivet Hangers Beverage Stand
A1 2’x2’ ledge
2 8’ sections of rope to prusik/aid Papa Pine or
5.9
Small hand saw (optional) maybe for pruning
branches on Papa Pine
Bolt Kit ( just in case)

A3 beaks,
arrows
Sargantana
The Direct finishes
2 120’ 7 on the last 7
pitches of the
Porcelain Wall
(aka Harding Route)
H.R.
WHWIS

5.5 House of
slab
1 180’ Cards
5.9
or C2
Harding
Strange
This route is a more natural start to the
Route
World original 1976 “Harding Route” Porcelain
A2 5.6 Wall route.
loose
Sky is 5.8
Falling or
C2
Sargantana

376 | Porcelain Wall

 Diving Board

50’ 14
A2
180’ 13

A2

Paradise The Direct, similar to the West Face of

Ledge 45’ 12

A2 Leaning Tower, follows some moderate cracks

195’ 11 and many bolt ladders up a steep, intimidat-
ing but beautiful face. It’s like a double
A0 Leaning Tower - with a double approach and
descent thrown in, but with several short aid
Yellow Planaria cruxes (pitons required). Porcelain Wall is a
180’ 10 magical spot! Climb The Direct after you
climb The Prow and Leaning Tower. It’s similar
in overall difficulty as Zodiac.
The Midway A2
Plan: Hike light your first time up the
130’ 9 approach, to suss the trail and see where you
will be able to get water - Mirror Lake for sure,
A0 or sometimes there is a snow field at the base
in late spring. Most teams fix and bivy at the
8 90’
5.9 or A1 base, as there is a nice flat spot 500 feet
before the start of the route. In fall, or during
190’ 7 low water years, you can bike to Mirror Lake,
A3 and hop across rocks to access the loop trail
and get to the HD approach trail, this cuts 30
5.6 minutes off and makes the approach seem
The 6 100’ not that bad. Plan two nights on the wall. The
Cemetary summit at the Diving Board is flat and sandy
A2
115’ 5 and has amazing views of Half Dome.
5.9+ or C1 The Elements/Retreat: Porcelain Wall is in
140’ 4 the shade nearly all day, with just the upper
Papa Pine half getting a few hours of sun. To retreat,
rappel the route.
C2
3 160’ FA History: The original Porcelain Wall route
was climbed by Warren Harding, Steve
Bosque, and Dave Lomba in 1976. They
chopped all the bolts as they cleaned each
A3 pitch, in response to Royal Robbins chopping
2 120’
Harding’s bolts on Wall of Early Morning
5.5 A0 Light. In 2012, Richie Copeland and I climbed
the Direct - we found a more natural path to
1 180’
the start of the route, and then joined
Harding’s line and replaced the bolt ladders
5.6
on the upper part.

Photo: Taylor Sincich

377
 When Hell was in Session VI 5.9 A5
FA: July 1995 - Eric Kohl, Pete Takeda
12

Diving
Board

2005 Rack: 15

Everything, including 3 ea #5 Camalot

***Note: the second ascentionist

reported the belay bolts missing A3 hooks A3
hangers, and that several of the nuts 14
were too rusted to remove to place death
flake 11
a hanger on - doh!
lasso
tree A4
** 152 holes 6 hooks
Yellow
wet Planaria
Oblique A4

A3
5.9
Harding
Route

huge
hooks flake
13
5 10
A2+
Paradise Ledge
The
Direct
A3

5.8
5.6 ramp

exp 12 9

Eric Kohl claimed that "Climbing the FA of the Planaria may

qualify as one of the highlights of my existence as I perceive
loose 4
it to this day." Powerful words from a guy who established
dozens of bigwall routes on all the formations of the Valley.

A1
A5
3

The
Circle of
Death
Sargantana
A2
Warning:
This area experienced
detached major rockfall
Direct in 2010/2011
Harding block
Route A4
2

slab House of
Cards
5.8
A2 7
jungle

Harding
Route Strange World

Sky is
1 80’
Falling

Direct
NW Face A3+
Sargantana
steep!

“Romancing The
Porcelain”

378 | Porcelain Wall

 Diving Board 15

A3
14

A4

13
A2+
Paradise Ledge
12

A3

11

A4
Yellow Planaria

10

Circle A5
8
of Death
A4
7

“Romancing The Porcelain” A3+

6
Tree Lasso
A3

A3
4

A1
3

A2

5.8
A2

80’ 1

Photo: Taylor Sincich

379
 Strange World VI 5.8 A4
FA: August 1999 - Bryan Law, Eric George

11

exp.
“The Red & Black” slab

haul stance
from
1999 Rack: here
10

5 RURPs
12-15 Beaks way steep!
15 KBs: 2 ea inc. long
20 LAs: 3 ea short + a few long
8 Angles: 4 ea 1/2”-5/8”
“The Hand”
Sawed Angles: 1 ea
Nuts: 2 sets (inc. offsets)
Ball Nuts steep 10 move left
Cams: 3 ea .3-3” to thin corners
slabby
2 ea 3.5- 4.5” 5
Offset Cams: 3 ea
25 Heads: inc. circle
Hooks: all
Keyhole Hangers “The “The Four
Lawnmower Roof Bivy”
70m Ropes (recommended) Pitch”

**30 holes 9
Sargantana
House
of Cards heads
. &
Across the canyon from the Porcelain Wall, there is a large beaks
talus field that is composed of the debris from two rock
avalanches. Evidence suggests that one of these rockfalls wide
actually came off of the Porcelain Wall and rolled across
4
the valley, because of the unique physics of very high
“Agent
4 60m ropes volume rockfalls. Orange”
to ground

HOC

3 belay takes
cams 8
5.8
squeeze
4” flakes

Direct H.R.
WHWIS 2

7 hooks
slab House of
Cards
“Right or Flight”
circleheads, RURPs, hooks
loose
Harding
Route
1
4th
Sky is
Falling

Sargantana
6

380 | Porcelain Wall

 Strange World is a good route. Don’t be
11
intimidated because there are no ratings
on the pitches, or the rack isn’t updated.
I haven’t done it, but always wanted to.
I talked to the second ascentionist and he 10

said it was awesome. The bottom half is

easier but sometimes dirty and loose. The Hand
Porcelain Wall is a really special spot ...and 9
this is likely scrappy A3+ at its hardest -
definitely a big notch easier than WHWIS.
“Agent Orange”
Yellow Planaria
8

“Right or Flight”
6

“The Red and Black”

“The Lawnmower”

Photo: Taylor Sincich 381

Mt. Broderick
1) 40 oz of Freedom
2) Free Unemployment Line
3) Unemployment Line
4) South Face (no topo)
5) Thugz Mansion
6) Runaway Train

2,3
1 4

3 To Snake Dike,
2 Lost Lake
1

4 6
5

382 Photo: Erik Sloan

 Liberty Cap
7) Passport to the Sky 16-18
8) Free Scarface 12-15
9) Scarface 19
10) West Buttress
11) Patriot Act
12) Stiff Upper Lip
13) Southwest Face 10
14) Mahtah
15) Bad Moon Rising 8,9,11
16) Direct Southwest Face

20,21

18
17
13

19

14

17,16
16
15

13,14

12
11 17) Wild World
18) Steel on Steel
10 19) Turkey Shoot
7
20) A Joint Adventure
8 21) Fetal Alcohol Syndrome
9

383
 Unemployment Line IV 5.12a or 5.9 A3
FA: November 1982 - Alan Bartlett, Jim May, Steve Gerberding
FFA: June 2014 - Shaun Reed, Scotty Nelson

5.6 var.
5.9 lb

pitch 8 affected (but not erased) by rockfall

3rd 7 big ledge

3rd
5.6

4th 5.10 move

5.8
Original
Route
belay takes
2-3” 5
belay takes
3-4” 6 Descent:
Head down slabs (can be
5.11
or A2 sketchy when wet) to Lost Lake.
Unemployment Line follows a Pick up the Snake Dike Trail and
super cool crack and flake system right descend the gully between
5.12-
or A1 up the middle of the wall, with endless 4 Mt. Broderick and Liberty Cap.
very
liebacking and underclinging, and a This takes you back by the base
fp
gritty touch of loose flaky rock thrown in. to rejoin the Mist Trail.

fp
5.11- 5.11+
or A1 or A3
arrows
sustained

5.9
“Fundercling”
3
5
5.11+
Rack: belay takes
2-4”
or C1

Nuts: 1 ea
5.9
Cams: 3 ea .3”- .5”
2ea .75“ - 3” 5.11+ 2 belay takes
or A0 2-3”
1 ea 4”
10 LAs (if aiding)

Approach:
70 - 90 minutes.
Hike up the Mist Trail until it crosses
the Merced River ~0.25 miles after 1 wandering
Vernal Fall. 200’ past the bridge leave the trail poor pro
5.9
hiking uphill, trending left. When you
encounter cliff bands, trend left as you
go up slabs.
hanging
1 tooth

5.10

5.10
thin
better start 5.9+

Original start
5.9+R
40 oz of Freedom
100’ 100’
384 | Liberty Cap
 Free Scarface V 5.12
FA: June 2010 - Steve Bosque, Josh Mucci
FFA: 2013 - Luke Stefurak, Ben Steel

6 165’
The most popular free route
in this area. Scarface climbs a
hollow
5” Free Rack: couple dirtier pitches to access
several pitches of pristine,
10b Nuts: 1/2 set (optional)
slab Cams: 1 ea .3” white spitters.
3 - 4 ea . 4” - 1”
4” ow 2 ea 1.25”-2”
loose 1 ea 3”
5.10
1 - 2 ea 4” 400’ of 3rd class
to summit
5 110’ 13 200’
“Smuggler’s
Stance”
12b glory Approach:
5.11 splitter! 5.4 70 - 90 minutes.
Massive scar from1872 Hike up the Mist Trail until,
earthquake triggered rockfall. ~0.25 miles before the top
5.11 The rockfall had an estimated of Nevada Fall, you encounter
12 130’
volume of 36,000 m³ and the cliff, go left
5.8 (Mist trail continues up and right).
destroyed much of a hotel located
10b at the foot of Nevada Falls. C2 Traverse left until you can scramble
115’ 5.9 up to the beginning of the route.
4 face 220’ to
75’ 9
Hotel SunRay 13
3’x4’
ledge 10b loose 5.5
5.10 stem
11 165’

p 150’ 10a
11a belay
takes 1-4”
10a
5.9 loose 8 100’

5.9
10b move
5.12
5.7 Cubano Corner belay
red takes hand -
3 10 sized gear)
80’ bush
5.6
5.7 5.11

10d
lb 100’ 7
120’ belay takes
.3-.75”

10d 5.8
2 145’
watch rope drag
5.10 3”
wide
lb C1 10a
5.10 5.8

Patriot Act
loose 5.7
10d lb 6 9
4th

Bad Moon
Rising

1 90’ The Patriot

Act
Scarface SW Face
Aid Route
11a Route wet roofs
3rd
40’ Direct
West SW Face
large
Buttress opening
dead
tree
60’
3rd class 175’ Descent:
Free Rappel with one 70m rope from pitch five,
Scarface 150’
or with two 60m ropes from pitch nine.
Apron
Snake Dike
From the summit, hike northeast down
trail an obvious gully and slabs to a shoulder
approach by skirting base above the John Muir Trail. Join the JMT
to the Mist trail.

386 | Liberty Cap

 200’ 13
130’ 12 5.4
5.9 Face
11 165’

10a
10 140’
10a
75’ 9
Hotel SunRay
11a
8 100’
5.12
Cubano Corner
7 100’
10d

6 165’

5.10

5 110’

12b

115’ 4
10b

80’ 3

10d lb

145’ 2

10d lb

90’ 1
Scarface Aid
11a
Route

Photo: Erik Sloan 387

 Scarface V 5.9 A2 or C3 or 5.12
FA: June 2010 - Steve Bosque, Josh Mucci
FFA: 2013 - Luke Stefurak, Ben Steel

6 165’
5” cam
Rack: Free Rack:
hollow 4 Beaks: 2 ea #1, #2 Nuts: 1 ea
C1 or
5” 2 KBs: 1 ea short/long Cams: 1 ea .3-.375”
10b lb 4 LAs: 2 short, 2 long 4 ea .4”
slab
Nuts: 2 ea micro, 1 ea regular 3 ea .4-.5”
Cams: 3 ea .3-2.5” 2 ea .75-3.5”
4” ow
2 ea 3”
loose
5.10 1 ea 4”, 5”
free var 400’ of 3rd class
C2 3 Hooks: 1 ea talon, grappling, to summit
5 110’ large hook 13 200’
“Smuggler’s 4 Camhooks: 2 ea narrow, wide
Stance”
10 Rivet Hangers
C1 glory
or 12b
5.11
splitter! 5.4
Massive scar from1872
earthquake triggered rockfall.
C2+ thin
or The rockfall had an estimated 12 130’
5.11
volume of 36,000 m³ and
5.8
destroyed much of a hotel located
10b at the foot of Nevada Falls. C2
115’ 5.9
4 face 220’ to
75’ 9
“Hotel SunRay” 13
3’x4’
ledge C1 or C1 or 5.5
5.10 stem 165’
10b loose free
belay
11 150’
p 10a
C2+ belay
or 11a takes 1-4”
C2 or
10a
8 100’
5.9 loose
C1
C2 or or 5.9
C2 or
10b move 5.12
5.7 free belay
“Cubano (takes hand -
3 Corner” red
80’ bush sized gear)
5.6
5.7 C1 or
C2 5.11
or
10d 100’ 7
120’ 10 belay takes
lb .3-.75”

A2/C3
C1 or 10d 5.8
F2 145’
2 100’ watch rope drag
5.10 3”
wide
lb C1 10a
or
5.10 tension 5.8

Patriot Act
C2 loose 5.7
10d lb 6 9
4th

Bad Moon
A1 Rising

F1 90’
1 105’ The Patriot
Act
SW Face
Route
11a wet roofs
A2 3rd
40’ Direct
West SW Face
large
Buttress opening
dead
tree
60’
3rd class 175’
Free
Scarface 150’ Descent:
Hike northeast down an obvious gully
Apron
Snake Dike and slabs to a shoulder above the John
trail Muir Trail. Join the JMT to the Mist trail.
approach by skirting base

388 | Liberty Cap

Alix Morris on Scarface, 5.12b, Liberty Cap. Photo: Austin Siadak
 The Patriot Act VI 5.9 A4
FA: September 2011 - Josh Mucci, Steve Bosque, Lars Johnson

6 130’
120’ 10 belay takes
.3-.75” Bush Cave
C2
5.8
rope drag Descent: loose

Hike northeast down an obvious gully A1

10a
and slabs to a shoulder above the John
or 5.8 Muir Trail. Join the JMT to the Mist trail.
tension
West
loose Buttress 5 120’
5.6

9 165’ A2+
heads/beaks
hooks
A1
9 Scarface 8 400’ of 3rd class
4” to summit
5.6
A2 13 200’
5.8 many beaks
& camhooks
4 120’
5” “Corbett’s
“Chasm of loose
Doom” Corner”
5.4
7 A2

2011 Rack: “Back to

Work!” C2 12 130’
2 RURPs
5.8
20 Beaks (10 small, 10 medium/large) 5.0
A2 heads/beaks “The Ejector Bivy”
10 KBs: 2 ea C2
3 145’
10 LAs: 2 ea 2” 5.9
face 220’ to
6 Baby Angles C2
13
6 Angles: 2 ea 1/2”-3/4” “The Bondage
Box” 5.5
Nuts: 2 ea micro, 1 ea regular 5.9 165’
free
Cams: 3 ea .3-.5” 11 150’
belay
6 10a
2 ea .75-3” A1 belay
1 ea 3.5-5” takes 1-4”
C2 or
30 Heads: 4 ea #1 10a
12 ea #2
"At 62 Lars was the oldest person C1
14 ea #3) A2 or 5.9
Hooks: 2 ea recorded as completing a big wall
Camhooks: 2 ea narrow, wide first ascent in Yosemite. Almost free belay
2 100’ red (takes hand -
10 Rivet/Keyhole Hangers as impressive, we managed to climb 185’ to ledge bush sized gear)
9 pitches without a trundle, which 5.6
is still a personal best for our team.
A testament to the nature of the
route." - Josh Mucci A4 heads/beaks 120’ 10 belay takes
.3-.75”
“No Country
For Old Men”

1 95’

A3 heads/beaks
Bad Moon
Rising

SW Face
Route,
Mahtah
wet roofs hooks Direct
SW Face
40’
5.9 large
Free opening
Scarface West
Buttress
3rd class 175’
Scarface 60’
150’
Apron Apron

180’
Snake Dike trail

approach by skirting base

390 | Liberty Cap

 200’ 13
130’ 12 5.4
5.9 Face
11 165’

10a
10 140’

10a West Buttress

9 165’ 8

Corbett’s Corner
A2
Scarface
7

130’ 6 A2
Bush Cave
C2

120’ 5

A2+

120’ 4

A2
145’ 3

“The Bondage
Box”

A2

100’ 2

“No Place For Old Men” A4

95’ 1
A3

Photo: Erik Sloan 391

 Southwest Face V 5.8 C2
FA: June 1969 - Warren Harding, Galen Rowell, Joe Faint

walk over summit p

to descent gully on back side of Liberty Cap 5 180’

loose 5.7
block squeeze
10 145’ Approach:
1.5 - 2.5 hrs. 5.11+
or
Hike up the Mist Trail until, C1
5.5
~0.25 miles before the top
5.8
of Nevada Fall, you encounter 60’ Crack of God
5.7 the cliff, go left walking along the wall -
the Mist trail continues up and right. Bad Moon Rising,
5.9 4” Mahtah
Traverse left, down, and around until 5.11or C2
p
belay takes you can scramble up to a 3rd class p
2-3” 4 140’
70’ 9 ramp, which cuts across the face.
5.7 or C1
C2 bushwhack
or 5.10
Descent: p

2-3 hrs. 5.9 or

C2 hook
180’ 8 belay takes 1-2” Hike northeast down an obvious gully
and slabs to a shoulder above the John
C2
manzanita Muir Trail. Join the JMT to the Mist Trail. camhook
jungle move
10b
C1 or
or 5.10
Rack: C1
Nuts: 1 ea micro, 1 ea regular offset 3 140’

Cams: 2 ea .3”
5.9 3 ea .4“- 3” 5.9 or
C1 hidden
1 ea 4” splitter
1 ea 5” (optional for pitch 7)
7 160’ Offset Cams: 1 ea
5.9
2 Hooks: 1 ea grappling, talon or bathook C1
Camhook: narrow
5 Rivet Hanger NO!
2 70’
lower down from
bolts and back clean 5.8 or C1
12a
or C1
10a Mahtah
or
3” C2
"My once-keen analytical mind has become so dulled 1 195’
5.8
squeeze/ by endless hours of baking in the hot sun, thrashing
belay takes 125’ 6 tunnel 10c tight hands
1.5-3” about in tight chimneys, pulling at impossibly heavy or
good bivy for 3
loads.... so that now my mental state is comparable C1
5.9 to that of a Peruvian Indian, well stoked on coca
tension leaves." - Warren Harding
p

5.6 5.9 fingers

70’ or C1
Bad Moon
5.10 R Rising
var. p 5 180’
5.9
or C2
The Patriot
Act Direct
10d or C2 SW Face
bivy

180’ rap 40’

West 175’
Buttress apron
Scarface 3rd
60’ 150’ 180’ to ground
Free
Scarface

Snake Dike trail approach by skirting base

Nevada Falls
leave haulbags here (take food with you to base of route) Trail

392 | Liberty Cap

 SW Face of Liberty Cap is a backcountry classic,
with moderate climbing and breathtaking views 145’ 10
5.9 slab
of nearby Nevada Fall. The cracks are mostly 70’ 9
clean and straightforward, and the ledge atop
5.10 or C2
pitch 6 is deluxe for three people. The approach is
8 180’
grueling, and can be busy via the Mist/Nevada
Falls trail. Climb Liberty Cap after you climb Skull
5.10 or C1
Queen, and/or the Leaning Tower. It is similar in
overall difficulty to The Prow. 160’ 7

12a or C1
Plan: For a couple solid 5.10 climbers going fast 5.8 Squeeze The
and light, this route is doable in one night. 6 125’
Ledge
Otherwise, this is a difficult first wall without a 5.10 or C2
portaledge because the first ledge is atop pitch 6, 180’ 5

and the approach takes some time. Unfortunate- 5.7 Squeeze

ly the start leans too much to make fixing more Crack of God (11b)
than one pitch feasible (your haulbag might get 7 80’
stuck in trees near the base, so you need both 12d
5.11 6 115’
your ropes). So best to bring a portaledge and or C2
just sleep at pitch 2, 3, or 4. The location is 140’ 4 12c
magnificent, but communication can be difficult
without radios when the falls are roaring - often
5 100’
C2
until late summer. 12c
4 140’
The Elements/Retreat: Liberty Cap gets sun 140’ 3

from mid-morning till late afternoon. To retreat, Free Variation

12a
rappel the route. Mahtah V 5.12d
C1
FA/FFA History: Warren Harding, Galen Rowell, 3 90’
2 70’
and Joe Faint made the first ascent in 1969. This is 10a
12a
one of the first routes on which bathooks were 2 30’
or C2
used instead of bolts, Harding having developed
1 195’
the technique to make moving over blank
sections of rock easier. Harding didn’t know, but
it turns out bathooks wear out easily, so are not 10c hands
good environmentally because they are not
sustainable. The bathooks here have been
replaced by bolts. The climbing went smoothly, 10d orC1
and in just a couple days the team neared the
top. In fading light, they famously misjudged the
steepness of the final slab pitch, thinking it
looked low-angled, an easy walk off. After a
couple aborted attempts, the three retreated a
pitch to a big terrace for the night. In the
morning, Rowell placed a bolt, and then
squeaked up dirty 5.8 slab to the summit.

Cedar Wright and Lucho Rivera made the first

free ascent in late May, 2013. They called their
route Mahtah.

Photo: Erik Sloan 393

 Mahtah V 5.12d
FFA: June 2013 - Lucho Rivera, Cedar Wright

walk over summit

to descent gully
p 90’
9

loose 5.7
15 145’ squeeze
Direct
Rack: 5.5 11d
SW Face
Nuts: 1 ea 5.8
Cams: 2 ea .3”-1.5”, 3 ea 1” 11b fingers
1 ea 2“-3” 5.6 belay takes Crack of God
.5-.75” 8 150’ 7 80’

5.8 SW Face 12d

Route pp

14 90’ belay takes p C1 6 110’

2-3” p
Direct
5.10 12c SW Face
bushwhack p
12c
or C2

160’ 13
manzanita 5 100’
jungle
12c
5.10
Approach: or C2
70 - 90 minutes.
Hike up the Mist Trail until, 4 140’
5.9 ~0.25 miles before the top
of Nevada Fall, you encounter 12a
or C2
the cliff. Walk left
12 110’ (Mist trail continues up and right).
5.8 Traverse left, down, and around until
dirty 5.10 (better way) you can scramble up to a 3rd class
ramp, which cuts across the face. 5.10 wide

Descent: SW 12a
3 90’

12a Hike northeast down an obvious gully Face or C1

and slabs to a shoulder above the John
10a
30’ 11 3” Muir Trail. Join the JMT to the Mist trail.
thin crack for belay 2 30’
5.8 1
belay takes squeeze
1.5-2.5” 125’ 10 190’

good bivy for 3

5.9

p
11c
10c
5.6 hands

70’
5.10 R
var.
9
Bad Moon Rising
Mahtah starts and
finishes on the
SW Face route
The Patriot Act 11a
Direct
bivy cave SW Face

180’ rap 40’

Free
Scarface

West
Buttress 175’
Apron
Scarface 3rd
60’ 150’ 180’ to ground

Snake Dike trail

approach by skirting base
leave haulbags here (take food with you to base of route)

394 | Liberty Cap

Cedar Wright and Lucho Rivera on the
FA of Mahtah, 5.12d. Photo: Gabriel Mann
395
Jericho Wall
rappel route
to descend 10 140’

Jericho IV/V 5.12a or 5.8 A2+

FA: October 2013 - Josh Mucci, Steve Bosque
FFA: October 2018 - Mark Westerberg, Shaun Reed
5.8

“Big Groaner” 10a loose

C2
5 155’

3”(10d)
Free Rack:
Nuts: 2 ea regular, micro
11a splitter fingers Cams: 3 ea .3”
or C1
2 ea .4”-3”
C1 or 11d 9 110’

C1
tiny cams
12a or C1 10c
watch rope drag C1
4 100’
“One Bolt Per Pitch”
10c
50’ C2 A1 beaks
10c loose
Bivy for 50!
loose
150’
3
180’to 6 90’
2” 10b down 8

5.7 loose
A2

11a 110’ 60m rappel

to 1
hooks
“Daddy Lichen” no!
7
95’
A2 beaks
A2+
sharp edge open project - 5.12?
11b move
.5” - 3”
5. unknown
“Crispy finger
p C1 Corner” crack
10b
watch rope in 11a or C2
the crack
2 150’
5.5 6 115’
Note: Jericho Wall is located just east of 2
Glacier Point Apron. A1 3”

Approach: (30-40 minutes)

hook
A2+ 3”
10c or A2 thin
10c lb
From the Nature Center at
Happy Isles, walk up the service 10c
road (the road says closed but there is “The Trumpet”
a trail right next to it on the left) until 5.7
10c thin hands
a large wooden bridge is visible beaks
orginal
on the left near the river, or you see a wash
cross the road. The approach
10a
fun!
route
10a splitter
Aid Rack:
trail starts on right, 15 feet after the wash, loose 60’ 9 Beaks: 3 ea #1-#3
and heads more or less straight up for fifteen 10a 200’ 60m rappel
5
5 LAs: 1 ea #1-#5
fun! 1 to base
minutes until you reach an open talus field, where A2+ 3 Angles: 1 ea 1/2”- 3/4”
the buttress is easily seen above. 5.5 Nuts: 2 ea regular, micro
Once you’re in the talus, look back at the forest to p
150’ Cams: 3 ea .3-2”
spot a very large pine tree, taller than the rest. This 2 ea 3-4”
tree will help you find the trail on your descent. C2
1 ea 5”
easy 5th, 3 Heads: 1 ea #2
Descent: but little pro
2 ea #3
lly

Hooks: all
y gu

Rappel the route with two 60m ropes.

(Follow the topo for specific rapping Camhooks
dirt

beta) 6 Rivet Hangers

5.5

leave packs here

early season stream

“Horns of Jericho”
FA: Kevin Dewesse(2013)

396 | Jericho Wall

 1-3

2
3

2 3

3
2

2
3

3
1) Horns of Jericho 5.5 A2+
2) Free Jericho 5.12a or 5.10 C1 2

3) Jericho Wall 5.8 A2+

4) Epidemia de Opiáceos 5.7 A3-

4
2-3

1
Photo: xRez.com
397
 Scenic and lower-angled, Glacier Point is a good introduction to Yosemite trad climbing. With many
climbs in the 5.5 - 5.8 range, including runout slabs and some perfect cracks, this is an area that will

climbing means that you can find some morning shade here, but generally these routes are sunny.

Glacier Point Overview

challenge you to trust your footwork on the rock. The north, and northeast facing nature of the

Goodrich Pinnacle
Mr.
Natural
Monday
The Morning Lonely
Grack Slab Dancer The
Marginal
Point Scimitar
Beyond
The
Goblet
5.9
Grunt
The
Cow Green
Dragon
Y
ULL
RG
EP E
S TE

Approach:
10 - 25 minutes.
Approach Glacier Point routes from the
Overview map showing the Wilderness Lot in relation to Curry Village
Wilderness Parking Lot, located just east of
Curry Vilage proper. Pizza
Tent Cabins

AGE
Follow signs for the Pines campgrounds, but Mtn. Gift Curry

DRAIN
Shop Shop Registration
instead of turning left at the first stop sign just

DRAINAGE
east of Curry Village, continue straight down a P
Large Dirt
road that appears to say 'Road Closed - Parking Lot
Authorized Vehicles Only' but which also has a W
Curry
with a square around it, designating the way to Village P
the Wilderness Trailhead parking. Wilderness Lot .1 Mile Bike
Large
Rentals
Boulder
Rockfall: Glacier Point is a large mountain, and
Glacier Point

rocks have been known to fall on all routes. Wear To Pines To

GE
Campgrounds, Yosemite Village Southside
a helmet! If you experience rockfall, immediately

IN A
Drive
Stables

D RA
retreat and leave the area because more rockfall
may soon be coming!
Posts
Wilderness Parking Lot
bear boxes
Bike Trail to Happy Isle

398
 2

1) Hall of Mirrors ««« 5.12c R

Goodrich 2) Galactic Hitchhiker ««« 5.11b or 5.10a C2
Pinnacle 3) Harry Daley ««« 5.8

Photo: Ryan Kirtland

399
 Hall of Mirrors V 5.12c R
FA: September 1980 - Scotty Burke, Chris Cantwell
11

Hall of Mirrors is considered one of the best slab routes

11c
of its grade in the world. Steep and technical, Alex Honnold describes
HOM as ‘Freeblast on steroids’.

10

Approach: Descent:
15 - 25 Minutes. Rappel with two ropes from the
“Lord of 12a Approach as you do for the Grack, pitch 16 anchor, or continue to
Light”
walking east of the Wilderness the rim via easy climbing. From the
11b Parking Lot until you hit a clearing rim, walk to the Glacier Point store
with a little hut and benches. and buy ice cream. Eat ice cream
Turn right and follow a climber’s and make new friends. Hitch a ride,
9 12c traverse - Crux of the route
trail up until you reach the wall. with your new friends, back down
“Unfinished 9th” Turn right and walk down, around, to the Valley.
10d mantel “Treble Clef” and up along the base of the wall
to the route.
8

12a
“Glass Easy 5th to
Menagerie” “The Hang” Glacier Point
Bivouac
7 U-Shaped
Rack: Bowl

Cams: 2 ea 1.25”-2” Rappel the route

“Hall of Mirrors” or climb to rim
Many slings 16
11b
“Hall of Fame”
6

11a 10d
“Steel Wall”
11c

10b
5
15

“Light Phantastic (Clear Lite)”

10d Goodrich 11b
Pinnacle
“Spring Time
Dry Variation” 4
11b
10d “Flake in the Sky”
14
10b good bivy

To the
Mouth “Room Full of Mirrors”
10a 10d
P
13
3

12b “The Thirteenth”

10a sustained
edging

12

12b
Hall of Mirrors 11a
starts on the two
pitch route 5.12
Misty Beethoven 1 “White Line

11a
5.9
11
var.

400 | Jericho Wall

“Don't believe the other brands’ hype: Totem Cams are
the best thing going for Yosemite Bigwalls”
- Erik Sloan
 Galactic Hitchhiker IV 5.11b or 5.10a C2
FA: October 1995 - Lou Renner, Matt Brooks

p
p 10
Ascending a mind-boggling four thousand vertical feet,
Galactic Hitchiker is an incredible adventure with the easy scrambling to
Glacier Point
ultimate topout. GH is know for technical, wandering slab
“The Ramos Crack” 23
with plenty of challenging route finding, aka ‘the adult
5.7
p version of the Royal Arches’. p“The Sting”
p 10b
p
Approach:
9 22

p p
5.6 10a 17
p thin 20 - 30 Minutes p
“Schreck’s
Approach as you do for the Grack, 5.9 Shelf”
walking east of the Wilderness
5.6
p
“The Gap” 10a Parking Lot until you hit a clearing 21
with a little hut and benches. 10b
5.9 11a/b R
Turn right and follow a climber’s variation “The Pilgrimage”
“The Bates 11b
8 p Wall” trail up until you reach the wall. or 5.10 A0
p Turn right and walk down, around,
and up along the base of the wall
5.7 mantel p
5.0 Beck’s Bivy to the route. p 10a

5.8 p 20 Ice Box Ledge

16
thin
10b or C1
3.5” piece “The Pacific p
useful thin Edge” 5.8
7 p
5.9
p
10a p
p 5.9 19
pp “Utopian Plane”
p thin
p 30’ from edge of Firefall
“Zanger’s 5.2
5.9 Line” Wall overlook
pp (way right)
p
Highlander easy 5th
15
Bivy Triplet Bivy
p 5.9
Goodrich 5.6
6 150’ These pitches
Pinnacle traverse much
more right than 4th
14
“The Ramp”
shown
5.6 chimney easy simulclimb
5.5
p 5.9
4th

5 110’ Rack:
Nuts: 1 ea inc. micros 4th
5.7R 10b
Cams: 2 ea .3”-4”
5.9++ p
5.9 R
4 60’ 11a
p or A0
p The Olympic Headwall
13 p pitches 12-14 easy 5th
5.9 10a R
3 150’ reachy!
5.9 18

12
10a R
5.8 “The Flying Saucer”
p
5.9
2 5.9
100’ pp 5.9 lb var.
10a R p
“The Renshaw
5.7 Seam” 5.9

200’ 1 5.9 lb escape

The Oasis 5th class p
11 & rappels 10a
5.4 17

5.7 water, bivy

4th 5.9
p
p 5.1
Descent:
5.7 Walk to Glacier Point store and eat ice
p cream. Make friends with tourists.
p 10
Hitch a ride back down to the Valley
with your new friends.

402 | Jericho Wall

best budget accommodations & best food at yosemite

Cabins, Hostel, tent Cabins, Cafe, Health Spa & groups

6979A Highway 140, Midpines 209.966.6666 YosemiteBug.com
 Photo: Roger Putnam
9 O’Clock Wall

Nine O’Clock Wall is a spectacular location

with really serious climbing. For these topos,
see Yosemite Bigwalls: The Complete Guide.

404
 Sentinel
1 2,3 4 5

3
2

3 2
5

1
2
3

Sentinel, while containing some low-angled,

grassed-over, old-school bigwall routes, is 4
mostly a free climber’s cliff now. The rock is
loose and not great for aid climbing anyway.
For these routes see Rock Climbing Yosemite
Valley: 750 Best Free Routes
6

1) Psychedelic Wall  5.12c

2) Direct Northwest Face  5.12a
3) Uncertainty Principle  5.13a
4) Chouinard-Herbert  5.11c or 5.10a C1
5) Steck-Salathé  5.10b
6) West Face  5.12d or 5.11b C1
Photo: Taylor Sincich 405
Lost Brother
1,2
3

6
7

2
1

1) Goliath (no topo)

2) Back in the Day (no topo)
3) Wayward Son / Call Of The Yeti
5 4) Blood and Coin
6 5) Prowd
6) Magic and Loss
7) Northwest Face (no topo)

1-5

Photo: Ryan Kirtland

406
 Wayward Son 5.12c or 5.11 A0 (1,100’ / 335m)
FA: 2019 - Brandon Adams
13 50’

V6
direct var. 10c
4 90’
9 120’
90’ 12
Rack: rappel to
Yeti Mating
COTY Nuts: 1 ea Ledge
10b
Cams: 1 ea .33-3”
11d
11a Quickdraws: 12
Slings: A few

80’ 3
COTY
COTY 11b

120’ 11
COTY
Approach: 8 50’ rappel to
belay 6
Yeti Mating
Ledge
10a
Park at a turnout on the left side of Southside
Drive 0.9 miles after El Cap Crossover. Walk 12a
COTY
toward the crag until the grade steepens. At
this point, work your way to the right past large 12c
90’ 2
boulders until you reach a rocky gully. Walk up
gully until it ends and you can see the first pitch
on the left. Cut left, following cairns, to the start
of the route. 7 50’
COTY

12b

Blood
&
Descent:
Coin Rappel the route with one 70 meter rope.
11a
10d COTY
6 90’
COTY
10 90’

1 90’

11a

Call of
the Yeti Magic 12b
& Prowd
11c Loss
5 100’
11b

spring 180’ 9 120’

3rd class
11a
loose, bushy
2nd class

Garden Ledge

5.9
COTY

approach
pitch
4

Lost Brother | 407

 Blood and Coin V 5.7 A3
FA: June 2014 - Kevin DeWeese

280’ of 5.8 and C1 Traverse ~20” 5.7R to

to summit reach Call of the Yeti.
5 130’ Rack: Follow to true summit.
The Lost Brother formation is named
21 Beaks: 7 ea #1-3 Call of
“The Iron Throne” for its resemblance to the Three
the Yeti
5 LAs: 2 ea #1-2, 1 ea #3 9 130’ Brothers formation across the
4 Angles: 2 ea 1/2”, 5/8” valley. This is because there is a
Nuts: 1 ea 8 rappels down regional pattern of joints that are
Call of the Yeti inclined towards the west in this part
Cams: 2 ea .3-.5” to “The Black Gate”
3 ea .6-2” of the Valley.
A1
2 ea 2.5-4”
1 ea 5” (optional)
A2 Offset Cams: 1 ea A2 fragile
Hooks: 2 ea grappling and cliffhanger .3-2”

4 90’
Camhooks: narrow and wide
16 Rivet Hangers
Yeti Mating
Ledge
Call of 8 150’
the Yeti “Tyrion’s Mantel”
great bivy
“Sansa’s Folly” for 3+
C2 loose
.3-5”

A2+ detached
beaks block
3 180’
“Ghost Flake”
“ATC Bivy”
Prowd C1 splitter
belay 4
detached
block

A2+
C2 fragile flake

Approach: 7 80’

Park at a turnout on the left side of Southside Drive

detached C1, hooks, and free
block 0.9 miles after El Cap Crossover. Walk toward the crag
until the grade steepens. At this point, work your way to
“Dark Wings,
Dark Words” the right past large boulders until you reach a rocky gully.
“The Heartwoods” C1 munge
A3
Walk up gully until it ends and you can see the first pitch on .3-3”
exp.
beaks the left. Cut left, following cairns, to the start of the route. 6 110’

A2 Descent:
Rappel Call of the Yeti
170’ 2
A2
“Winter is Coming”

Call of
the Yeti A1
“The Moon
Door”
5 130’
Magic
go right, & A2 Prowd
then left Loss

C1, 1 180’
5.7
0.3-4” spring 3rd class

“The Black Gate” loose, bushy

2nd class
5.9
Garden Ledge

approach
pitch
Shuttle haulbags and gear across
large, bushy ledge

408 | Lost Brother

 9 130’

A2
150’ 8 Yeti Mating Ledge

“Ghost Flake”

C2

7 70’
“The Heartwoods” C1
6 110’

“The Moon Door” (A2) 5 130’

A2

90’ 4

“Sansa’s Folly”

A2+
180’ 3

A3 “Dark Wings, Dark Words”

2 170’
Wayward Son
“Winter Is Coming”

5.7
C1

Garden Ledge 1 180’

5.9

Photo: Ryan Kirtland 409

The Cathedrals

Higher
Cathedral
Descent

Cathedral Higher
Higher Spires
Spire Braille Cathedral
Gully Book Rock
Lower
Spire NE The North
Buttress Sea

Bridalveil
Middle Fall
Cathedral Lower
Rock Cathedral
East Mother

t
North Rock

sigh
Lower Spire Buttress Earth

41
approach trail Face Beggar’s

Gun
Central

ay
Buttress

il

hw
The Hex Pillar

ra
Mecca

Hig
of Frenzy

Loop T
Boulder
Toejo

Valley
Cathedral
Boulders

Valley Loop Trail

ng
rki
Southside Drive pa Bridalveil
parking Straightaway
one-way parking parking
Southside Drive
pa

traffic
r

2-way
kin

one way traffic

g

traffic

El Capitan
bathrooms Crossover
be

Cathedral Beach
a
r lo

Picnic Area
ck
pa

er
rk

s
ing

El Capitan
Bridge
N

Approach
For the Cathedral Spires and Higher Cathedral Rock: Park at the intersection of El Cap Crossover
and Southside Drive. Walk south on an informal trail to the Valley Loop Trail. Take the Valley
Loop Trail to the east for a few hundred feet to a trail that switchbacks up Cathedral Gully.

Descent
Rappel the Regular Route (5.9), on the back (South) side of the Spire (six, one-rope raps). Walk
along the base back to the start of the route, and reverse the approach trail.

410 | The Cathedrals

 1) The High Life (Millertime) 1-5
2) Northwest Face
3) Higher Aspirations
4) Spire It Up
5) Regular Route (no topo)
5

Higher Cathedral Spire

1
5

2 411
Photo: Roger Putnam 1 3
Higher Cathedral Spire
Blue Collar (Northwest Face) VI 5.13 or 5.8 A3+
FA: June 1961 - Tom Frost, Royal Robbins Glory summit!
FFA: 2018 - Kevin Jorgeson
This is a mega classic, old school route 12
4 single rope
right up the middle of one of the Valley’s 5.6 raps to ground
5.9 ow along Regular
most iconic faces. This climb is worth Route
Higher 5.9
Cathedral doing a little aid, if necessary, to experience. hands
Descent The position is topnotch; the route is in the 11

shade nearly all day. 5.9

Cathedral Higher
NW
Face
Spires Braille Cathedral
Gully Book Rock
Higher 6 125’
Lower Spire
NE 5.11 5.7
Spire The North
Buttress Sea
edge
Fissure .4”-4” of NW
Ben 5.11- fist face
60’
sustained
or C2 awkward steep!
huge roof 5.7
Middle
Regular
Route
Cathedral 5.12
Rock 100’
East 80’ 5 wide
Lower Spire Buttress crack 10
approach trail p
Central
5.7 aid
5.7 route
The Hex Pillar
5.4 Tower
Boulder of Frenzy finish
loose of
Rubble
jungle
Cathedral corner
Boulders aid 5.6 5.10
route loose
Valley Loop Trail 4” 5.12

Southside Drive parking 4 100’ 100’ .3-4”

one-way parking 9
pa

traffic Southside Drive 5.12 p

r

2-way Belay takes 1 ea

kin
g

traffic A3 .75 camalot - #3

160’ p heads A3+
(A2 to p
El Capitan aid free exp
bathrooms Crossover route)
be

Cathedral Beach
a
r lo

Picnic Area p 5.13 5.12

ck
pa

130’ A2 beaks
er

3 p
rk

aid
s
ing

El Capitan route
Bridge
The Guillotine
5.12 70’ 8 Belay takes 2”, 3”
or C2 7
.4-8”
Approach:
60 - 90 minutes aid 5.12 5.12
route
From El Capitan Crossover find a faint trail (A2 beaks)
Chimney of p
that leads a couple hundred feet to the Horrors 1.25”
Valley Loop Trail. Turn right and walk just (before piece
big cams) (.75 Camalot)
ten or fifty feet (depending on which trail 5.8 “KJ Layaway”
chimney
you took) to the Spires Gully / Cathedral p 5.13- lb
Boulders trail. Turn left and head up to the
popular Hex Boulder, where the Spires Gully 5.10+
p 2 85’ 6 Free Rack:
trail cuts right and up. As you approach the roof Nuts: 1 ea
or C2 .3-4”
Higher Spire, look for a side trail that cuts over Cams: 2 ea .3“-1.25”
to the cliff. 5.11 lb 2-3 ea 1.5“- 4”
aid
“Hand Over 2 ea 5”
Descent: route
C2+
1
Fist Crack”
200’ 1 ea 8”
Rappel the Regular Route (with one 60m rope ), to
which involves four easy rappels down the ground
Aid Rack:
backside of the mountain. Follow the trail back 10d fingers 10 Beaks: 2 ea #1
down along the base, then reverse the approach 140’ 4 ea #2, #3
trail. 3 LAs: 1 ea #2-#4
3 Sawed Angles:
1 ea 5/8”, 2 ea 3/4”
.3-2” Nuts: 1 ea
Cams: 3-4 ea .3-1.25”
5.10 2-3 ea 1.5-3.5”
or
C2 loose 2 ea 5”
1 ea 8”
The High 3 Heads: 1 ea #2-#4
Life Higher
Aspirations Camhooks
200’
Toe
of Spire Gully All significant spires in Yosemite are located near the rim of the Valley,
Spire Trail above the level of the recent glaciations. Spires are geologically fragile
100’
features and cannot resist the erosive power of a glacier.
412 | The Cathedrals
 12
5.8
5.9 ow 11

5.8

5.12
100’ 9 10 10 60’
The Tower of Rubble
5.7
5.6
loose
5.10
9
100’ 8

A3+ 5.12-
8 Regular Route
7 7 5.9
5.12
A2
13-
“KJ Layaway”
125’ 6

Fissure Ben 5.11 Fist

or C2
80’ 5

5.12 or C2

4 100’

The
Guillotine
5.13 or A2
130’ 3

Chimney 5.12 or C2
of Horrors

2 125’

“Hand Over Fist 5.11 or C2+

Crack”
140’ 1

5.10 or C2

Photo: Roger Putnam

413
Middle Cathedral Rock
1) East Buttress  5.10c
2) Sacherer - Fredericks (no topo)
3) Kor-Beck  5.9 (no topo)
4) Space Babble (no topo)
5) Bircheff - Williams  5.11d (no topo)
6) Central Pillar of Frenzy  5.9 (no topo)
7) Stoner’s Highway  5.10c (no topo)
8) Powell-Reed (no topo)
9) Pieces of Eight (no topo)
10) Paradise Lost  5.10a R (no topo) 11-13
11) Direct North Buttress
(DNB)  5.11a R
12) Ho Chi Minh Trail  5.11a R (no topo)
13) North Buttress  5.10a

3-10

12

11

2 Weekend At A 13
lberts

4
5 6 7 9
8 10 11,12
414
 15
16

20

17

18
19

17

14

20
19

15 16 17 18 21
14

14) Quicksilver (no topo)

15) Father Time  5.13b
16) Mother Earth
17) Smith - Crawford (no topo)
18) Crazy (no topo)
19) The Flakes (no topo)
20) Border Country  5.12
21) East Buttress of Lower Cathedral  5.10c

Photo: Ryan Kirtland

Photo: Ryan Kirtland 415
 East Buttress is one of the best
multi-pitch moderate routes in Yosemite.
Mostly 5.6 - 5.8, and with barely any wide cracks,
East Buttress is incredible! The 5.10c pitch
is closely bolted, so folks can just pull on
East Buttress III 5.9 A0 or 5.10c 120’ 11

FA: 1954 - Warren Harding, Jack Davis, Bob Swift

the bolts as necessary, which makes the FFA: 1965 - Frank Sacherer, Ed Leeper
whole climb 5.9. 5.9
p 4th
p 7 120’
10c
belay takes
good nuts 80’ Rack: Parties who are
move rotten
gully
5.7 Nuts: 1 ea planning to rappel
Cams: 2 ea .4”-4” usually do not climb
the final pitch
5.8 140’ 10
chimney . rap 5.7
route
(one
4” 60m
rope)
90’ 100’ 6

5.7 chimney Difficult diagonal 5.8

rappel. Tie knots in
sling p end of your rope.
original
route flake
p 11 more, simple, no!
5.6 5.6 one rope rappels
100’
5
3”

belay takes
.75-1.25” 100’ 9
Descent: 5.9 “Fifty Crowded
Rappel with one 60m rope on a 10c
or
Variation”
Approach:
dedicated rappel route just left A0 25 - 40 Minutes
of the tenth belay. Otherwise, do 100’
4 10a From the long pullout on
5.7
one more crumbly pitch to a ledge. Southside Drive (right before
Walk around and up a short hill to the El Capitan Crossover)
gain a larger ledge system and trail follow the wide path slightly 130’ 8 belay takes
that heads climber’s left, across a terrace 2-5”
west for a couple hundred feet
and into the gully between Middle to the Valley Loop Trail. Turn
5.7
and Higher Cathedral rocks. Once right, and walk a couple hundred 90’
in the gully, there are two short feet until you see a post with
3 100’
rappels, or 5.5 downclimbing sections, a carabiner, and the well defined 5.8
and more steep trail that eventually approach trail leading up a gully. 5.9
winds around and descends into the 5.9
The approach to the East Buttress
5.6 awk
gully that you walked up on the approach. 5.7
breaks out right from this gully,
lb
B
so look for cairns after 10 - 15
minutes in the gully, when you are p
p 7
. Link pitches 1 & 2 40’ 2
almost to the wall.
with 60m rope
5.8
Cathedral
5.8
120’ move . Spires
1
Higher
Gully
Higher Cathedral
Lower Spire Rock
Spire NE
A 80’ Buttress
10c
thin
10b
thin B
5.6

11a Middle
10d Cathedral
The Rock
East
Pedestal Lower Spire Buttress
approach trail
Central
A: No Butts About It: 5.10b
gul

The Hex Pillar

of Frenzy
ly

Boulder
5.8 B: Critical Path: 5.11a
Cathedral
5.8 Boulders

Valley Loop Trail

Southside Drive parking

one-way parking
pa

traffic Southside Drive

r

gully 2-way
kin
g

traffic

El Capitan
bathrooms Crossover
be

carabiner post Cathedral Beach

ar lo

Picnic Area
ck
pa

er
rk

Valley Loop Trail

s
ing

El Capitan
Bridge
parking

416 | The Cathedrals

417
 Father Time VI 5.13b Approach:
FA: October 2012 - Mikey Schaefer et al.
Park at the pullout .4 miles past the Bridalveil
7
Falls straightaway on Southside Drive. Follow
the climbers' trail which crosses the Valley Loop
15 off route Trail and up into the Gunsight Gully. The trail
bolt
weaves in and out of the gully.
Beyond the East Buttress of Lower Cathedral,
the trail to Father Time and Mother Earth leaves
Smith- 5.12
Crawford 5.13 the gully and heads east towards the North Face
“Index 11d”
of Middle Cathedral.
6

Smith-
Descent:
Crawford 14 Scamble down to the Gunsight Gully, which
has a couple low fifth class moves to easy
5.12
5.13- hiking. The Gunsight Gully trail meets up with
the approach trail.

“Athletic 12c”
5 10 min hike
to summit
13
5.9

Rack: “The Boulder

Problem”
~1 hr to
Gunsight
Nuts: small - medium 5.13 big sloping
Cams: 1 ea .3”-.5” ramp with anchor
on the edge
2 ea .6“-1.25”
1 ea 1.25“-3” 12
20

5.12- 5.8
4

19

11
5.10
N. Face
Traverse 5.10
5.9
3 loose

18
5.10 N. Face
Traverse
rap to 16

10

2 5.12-

great
portaledge bivy

5.10 17
5.10

5.12
9
1

Mother
Earth

5.10
16

5.10 5.7 8
If rappelling 5.10
route, rap to
Smith/Crawford
anchors 5.11

150’ to 500’ to 7 15
North Face Apron Gunsight Gully
This remarkable ground-up effort took 60 climbing days
spread over two years. It resulted in a modern test-piece
that involves top notch face and crack-climbing.

418 | The Cathedrals

 20

5.8
19

5.9
18

5.12-
17

5.12
16

5.10
15
“Index 11d” 5.13
14

“Athletic 12c” 5.13-

13
5.13
“The Boulder Problem”
12

5.12-
11

5.10
10

5.10
9

5.10
8

5.11
7

5.12
6

5.12

5.9

5.10
3

5.10
2

5.10
1

5.10

Photo: Ryan Kirtland 419

 Border Country V 5.12
FA: September 2009 - Jeremy Collins, Dana Drummond, Mikey Schaefer
Border Country has become a 5.12
testpiece in the same vein that
Stoner’s Highway is considered a
5.10 testpiece. The protection is
10 100’
adequate, but takes careful
climbing and a perceptive eye to find.
200’ rap
to belay 11
165’ 4
165’

5.11+

9 100’

5.8

5.9 dirty (not recommended)

5.12

5.10 100’ 11
NO!

5.11+
8 90’
5.10+

165’ 3
5.12-

North Face
Traverse Ledge 10 100’

Rack: 7 150’

Cams: 1 ea .3”-3”
150’ rap
12 Quickdraws. 5.9

5.10-
6 200’
Approach:
Park at the pullout .4 miles past the Bridalveil
Falls straightaway on Southside Drive. Follow
Rap Here! the climbers' trail which crosses the Valley Loop
50’ rap Trail and up into the Gunsight Gully. The trail
U-Shaped Bowl weaves in and out of the gully.
165’ 2 Beyond the East Buttress of Lower Cathedral,
the trail to Father Time and Mother Earth leaves
165’ 5
NO! the gully and heads east towards the North Face
of Middle Cathedral.

Descent:
5.9+
Rappel the route with two 60m ropes.
Important: Rap from 7 to 5 by using
5.8 the mid-pitch anchor, to the left. Otherwise
you will not be able to pull your rope, or
1 165’ you will dislodge many loose blocks.

5.10 Border Country

By Jonny Copp
“Here it comes to take me down, take me down with a thunderin’ sound
Here she comes with arms spread wide, calling me back from border country
Inch by inch, step by step, shadows are runnin’ in both directions
To Gunsight Cowerin’ down from the echoing sounds bring us face to face
Tighten my boots, make a run, turn to see that my thoughts untied,
Standing still in the blazing sun, nowhere to hide in Border Country
Jonny Copp and Micah Dash, Grabbin’ at the earth, holding on tight, wishin’ for my momma and my sweetheart’s delight
beloved Yosemite climbers, Pull out a pennywhistle, let the old man dance, buying my ticket outta border country”
were killed in an avalanche while
climbing in China.
420 | The Cathedrals
Katie Lambert and Nina Williams
on Father Time. Photo: Julie Ellison 421
Wall of Ages 5
1) Voices Of The Drowned (Mama)
2) Resisting Arrest
3) Misanthropic Execution 6
4) Yellow Corner 7
5) The Age Of Exploration
6) The New Age
7) The Anomaly Variation

4
1 2

2
3
6,7
4

422 Photo: Ryan Kirtland

 Mama (Free Voices of the Drowned) IV 5.12a
FA: 2006 - Sean Jones, Jake Jones

Mama is steep, well-protected

climbing in an outrageous position 30’
right next to Bridalveil Fall. This 9
rap anchor

route faces west, so gets shade 5.8

8

until afternoon.
11a
flare
Rack: 6
“Ice Box ”
Nuts: 1 ea Voices
Cams: 2 ea .3”-3” 11b
1-2 ea 4“ loose!
1 ea 5”
1 ea 7” 5 5.9 Mama 150’
7

Approach: See map on page 428 11c

“Mucho
Frio”
25 - 35 minutes loose
From the bathrooms at the Bridalveil Fall
parking lot, walk toward a house-sized boulder
with a good trail heading up the hill beside
it. Follow the trail uphill for a few hundred feet 11a fingers
until you reach a boulder field (slick when 11c
4
wet). Angle up and right through the boulder 180’ to2
field. Be patient, and look for the cairns
that mark the path. Closer to the wall the
trail splits (see map) off from the main
Leaning Tower trail. Mama starts off 12a lb 3-5”
a chossy terrace up and left of the Watchtower.

Descent:
11a undercling
5.8 squeeze

Rappel the route.

6
3

“Mama was the ultimate collaboration with a

original 12c lb
route 11b great friend, Jake, who is like my brother. We
were both working full time, and just had
2 Sundays to charge on the mission, beat up
from the workweek but psyched to be on the
Voices of
the Drowned 10c stone. That place is wild with all the swirling
ow
A1 energy around the waterfall - some of the early
1 photos of the route had what looked like ghosts
Rattlesnake
Mama
floating around us.”
Buttress
Bridalveil - Sean Jones
Fall Age of
Resisting Exploration
10c Arrest
5.8

Turning
Yeller Yellow
Wall
Misanth.
Execution

gold
rock dark
rock
8’ detached
s pillar
las
cliff d c ly
3r gul The
Watchtower

424 | The Cathedrals

 Enjoy the
smaller stones
of Yosemite
Valley.

Buy the guidebook at

www.yosemitevalleybouldering.com
 Misanthropic Execution V 5.8 A3
FA: August 2004 - Joshua Thompson, Bryan Law belay takes
KBs 4

rap the route

to descend
6

awk heads loose

tension “Sniper’s
Note: This route, with its longer pitches “The Escalator Outpost”
5.8 and expert first ascentionists, is probably Move”
a sandbag for its grade. That said, the line loose
12’ stick move
looks amazing - so go for it after past loose flake.
you knock off a few other A3 routes. A1+ Use 5” cam where
awk crack narrows.

5.9
3

cave 5.8
5
“Safe
yellow House”
lichen
5.7 2013 Rack:
wide
9 Beaks: 3 ea
3 KBs
A1+
3 LAs
4 Angles: 2 ea 1/2”, 5/8”
4 Sawed Angles: 2 ea 3/4”, 1”
thin hooks Nuts: 2 sets
A2 & free Cams: 3 ea .3-3”
small cams, 2 ea 4-5”
pins, heads
rotten
5.8 chimney 10 Heads: mostly #2
Yellow
Corner A1 Hooks: all
2 150’
4 Keyhole Hangers
Yellow
4 Corner heads 12’ Stick Clip

Approach: See Leaning Tower approach (page 428). A2

thin
Descent: Rappel the route. “Metal pins
Blade” steep
Note: Pitch 2 is steep. Either down-aid
and use a stick clip to reach the belay, or
leave it fixed.
A1+
small cams,
nuts

180’ rap to
Voices belay takes 1 below 3rd class
of the small cams approach gully
Drowned A1 cams
Rattlesnake
Buttress
Resisting “The Executioner’s 5.8
Arrest Song”
blades
Age of
Exploration
Turning
A3 Yeller
loose heads, Yellow
hooks Wall

A1+
loose

gold
rock dark
rock

8’ detached
s
las pillar
cliff dc y
3r gull

The
Watchtower

426 | The Cathedrals

 6

5.9
“Safe House” 5

5.8
A1
4

“The Escalator Move”

A1+
3

A2

150’ 2

A2
“Metal Blade”

190’ 1

“The Excecutioner’s Song”

A3

427
Leaning Tower
Leaning
Tower
Chimney

Westie
Face
Brother of
Leaning Tower
Leaning (B.O.L.T )
Mecca
Tower

Lower
Cathedral

Toejo Leaning
Tower Traverse

Yellow
Corner

Valley Loop Wall Of Ages Voyager

Trail
Bridalveil
Fall Mama
El Cap, The
Yosemite Watch- Bird of New Sport Climbing Area
Village tower Prey Mostly 5.11 routes.
Fifi Buttress Set up for single, 70m
rappels.
parking

parking

Center of
the Universe

Southside
Drive

house-sized
parking
parking

boulders

bathrooms, gully
bear boxes

parking
Old dirt road
(old hwy 41)
trail to
The Lurch, Windjammer, etc.

CA 4
1

N
To Tunnel View,
The Rostrum,
Fresno

Approach for Leaning Tower and Wall of Ages

From the bathrooms at the Bridalveil Fall parking lot walk toward a house sized boulder with a good
trail heading up the hill beside it. Follow the trail uphill for a few hundred feet until you reach a boulder
field (slick when wet). Angle up and right through the boulder field. Be patient, and look for the cairns
that mark the path. The Wall of Ages trail heads up and left halfway through the boulder field. For the
Leaning Tower continue until you come to the base of the wall where the trail continues up and right to
a nice flat spot right before the traverse ledge from which the routes start. For these topos, see Yosemite
Bigwalls: The Complete Guide. (45 - 60 minutes)

Wall of Ages Descent

Most parties rappel their route to descend.

Leaning Tower Descent

From the summit anchor, wandering 5.5 downclimbing or two, 50m rappels brings you to the flat area
above the Leaning Tower Chimney. Rappel the chimney with one 60m rope to avoid dislodging loose
rocks. The rappels lead to the base of the wall 250' above where you left the trail to head out on the
Leaning Tower Traverse Ledge. Continue down the approach trail.

428 | Leaning Tower

 1 2 7
3,4
5
6

3 4

1) Disco Strangler 8
2) Jesus Built My Hotrod 2
3) Wet Denim Daydream 3,4
4) West Face 5
5) Heading for Oblivion 6
6) Roulette
7) Love Without Anger
8) A Gift from Wyoming 7
9) Leaning Tower Traverse 5.8 (no topo)

8
Photo: Tom Evans 429
 1
2
120’ 9

4th30’
6
5.5
6 100’
140’ 8
13a or A2 3
5.8 175’ 5 8 40’
150’ 7 A1 5.10 or C1
135’ C2
110’ 7
A3
13a or A3 A3
140’ 6
150’ 6
A2+
4 125’

130’ 5 A4
13a or C2
“Go For The Old E” (A4) 3 150’ 115’ 5
13d or C2 “Battle of the Bulge” (A3+)
90’ 4 80’
A2 12d or A3+

150’
4 115’
140’ 3 2 West Face A3+

A3+ 12d or C3
3115’
145’ 2
A3
1 200’
A3+ 2 115’
C2 A4
110’ 1
120’
C2 1) Jesus Built My Hotrod
1 100’ 2) Wet Denim Daydream /
A3+ Wet Lycra Nightmare (free route)
1 A4
3) Roulette
2

These three routes are a step up from the cruiser West 3

Face. Wet Denim is pretty moderate, maybe as hard as
Ten Days After overall but logistically easier because it’s
shorter. Wet D packs in some outrageous climbing in
just a handful of pitches.The pitch off Ahwahnee is
technically challenging, and most folks clip a couple
nearby free cimbing bolts to make it safer. The roof
pitch at the end is all-time glory climbing!
Jesus and Roulette are as hard as short El Cap nail-ups
like Shortest Straw, but are a lot shorter. They don’t get
climbed that often because at this level of difficulty with
slow intimidating aid, most folks just prefer to be on El
Cap. That said, there is no substitute for practice, and
both of these routes are totally top-notch, and would be
climbed many times each year if not for the bigger walls
like El Cap being so close.

Photo: Tom Evans

430
 Jesus Built My Hotrod VI 5.7 A4
FA: September 1992 - Eric Kohl, Eric Rasmussen

follow
West Face
120’ descent route
9

5.5 West Face

8 140’
Wet
4 90’ Denim
A2

cam hooks 150’ 7 A1

tension & 5.8
A1
loose
Ahwahnee Ledge
3 140’
3 West Face
hooks
heads 1994 Rack:
Guano Ledge 4-6 Beaks
great bivy for 4-5 10 KBs: 2 ea #1-#5
ok bivy for 6-7
A3very loose
13 LAs: 3 ea #1-#3
A3
2 ea #4-#5
4 Angles: 2 ea 1/2”, 5/8”
A2 beaks
4 Sawed Angles: 1 ea 1/2”, 5/8”
A3+
2 ea 3/4”
thin Nuts: 1 ea
6 140’
Cams: 3 ea .3-1.5”
2 ea 2.5”, 3.5”
145’ 2
15-20 Heads: mostly #2, #3
beaks
inc. circleheads
Mini Thin Hooks: 2 ea
A2+ Headwall
Camhooks
A3
Free Jesus belay cams & **20 FA holes
pins

5 130’

A3+ thin
A4
hooks
1 110’
“Go for the After spending much of the first day of the
Old E”
FA making mixed drinks, Kohl was quite
A3
A3 thin intoxicated. While trying to climb into his
4 portaledge that evening, Kohl fell off the
cliff. Fortunately he had tied a loop of rope
120’ West Face
haul
around his waist that arrested his fall.
Heading for
fixed heads
Oblivion

A3+
hooks free
route leave
dead haul bags Roulette
tree here
ok bivy Love
Without descent
for 2 Anger route
300’ to super exposed
ground 5.4

(fix rope)

flat spot

Leaning Tower | 431

 Glory 30’
6 1.5-3”
Wet Denim Daydream V 5.7 A3+ or 5.13d A0
summit!

FA: 1977 - Daryl Hatton, Angus Thuermer easy slab

Dano 100’
Ledge 6
West
Face
good bivy
for 3

insane 15’
A2 roof splitter

C2
loose
great bivy for 4-5
5 175’
3” 3 ‘x 3’ ledge
ok bivy for 6-7
Ahwahnee
Ledge 40’
2 150’ C1

Guano Ledge
loose
5.6 slab
13a or
5.11+R A0
Rack: C3F
7 Beaks: 2 ea #1, #2 or
A3 heads
3 ea #3
easy
hooks 3 LAs: 1 ea #2-#4
2 Angles: 1 ea 1/2”, 5/8”
12d
Nuts: 1 ea .3-3”
sustained Cams: 3 ea .3-1”
C2 2 ea 1.25-3”
.4-1” 8 Heads: 1 ea #1
3 ea #2
awkward mantel 2 ea #3, #4
or C2
3 Hooks: 1 ea talon, cliffhanger, grappling
12b A2+ or Camhooks 4 125’
C2+

.3-1.5”
mostly C1

C2 or 12c This route, surprisingly, required only one new lead bolt .3-2”
1 200’ on the first ascent. Belays have since been bolted, and
a couple flakes have fallen off resulting in added rivets.
13a or C2
camhooks

p 150’ 3

.3-1”
12d
C3F or
120’ off route A3+
bolts heads,
(for free route) beaks
Wet Denim starts
on the West Face route
few
.3-.75” C2
hooks
5.7R

5.11
Jesus
Jesus Heading for Built My 2
Oblivion West Face
Built my Hotrod
Hotrod

Free
Route
dead
Roulette
tree
ok bivy
for 2 Love
Without
Anger descent
super exposed
300’ 5.4 route
to ground
(fix rope)

nice flat spot

432 | Leaning Tower

 Wet Lycra Nightmare (Free Wet Denim Daydream) V 5.13d A0
FFA: 2004 - Todd Skinner, Jim Hewett

A Gift From Wyoming IV 5.13b

FA: 2013 - Alex Honnold

Ahwahnee great bivy for 4-5

Rack: Ledge ok bivy for 6-7
3
Nuts: 1 ea 150’
Guano Ledge
Cams: 2-3 ea .3”-1”
2 ea 1.25“-3” 5.6 slab Approach:
13a 45 - 60 minutes
5.11+R
Glory 30’
1.5”-3”
From the bathrooms at the Bridalveil Fall
9
summit! parking lot, walk toward a house-sized boulder
with a good trail heading up the hill beside
good bivy Dano easy slab
for 3 Ledge it. Follow the trail uphill for a few hundred feet
50’ 9 until you reach a boulder field (slick when
West
Face wet). Angle up and right through the boulder
12d
13a sustained field. Be patient, and look for the cairns
bombay
that mark the path. When you reach the base
“Broken Wing” .4-1” of the wall continue up and right to a nice flat
2 spot below the traverse ledge from which all
70’ 8
awkward mantel Leaning Tower routes start. The last 100’ of
C2
loose
this traverse ledge before the route is super
3” 12b exposed 5.4 - there is often a fixed rope here but
3’ x 3’ ledge
if not, fix your own and shuttle gear.
.3-1.5”
5.10

7 135’ 12c Descent:

loose 1 200’ From the summit anchor, wandering 5.5 down-
climbing or two one-rope (50m) rappels brings you to
the flat area above the Leaning Tower Chimney. Rappel
the chimney with one 60m rope to avoid dislodging
p
13a loose rocks. The rappels lead to the base of the wall
250’ above where you left the trail to head out on the
the Leaning Tower Traverse Ledge to the route.
Continue down the approach trail.
.3-3” 120’

Wet Lycra starts

on the Westie Face
few
.3-.75” C2
hooks

6 125’ Heading for

Jesus Built Oblivion
My Hotrod
13a Free
Route
.3-2”
G4 dead Roulette
5.2 tree

5.9 ok bivy
wide for 2
super exposed
5 45’ 300’ 5.4
G3 to
13d ground (fix rope)
amazing arête 12 b/c
80’ 4 .3-1” more bolts
than shown G2 100’
12d

old bolts nice flat spot

5.10
G1 150’

West Denim
5.7R
13 b/c meandering, with
thin gear
5.11
Jesus West Face
3
Built My In 2006, while working on a direct start to Wet Lycra
Hotrod
Nightmare, Todd Skinner perished in a rappelling accident
Ahwahnee because his belay loop on his old, frayed harness failed.
Ledge V6+ jump from talus -
stick clip first bolt Alex Honnold finished the project years later.

Leaning Tower | 433

 West Face V 5.7 A2 or C3 or 5.13a A0
FA: October 1961 - Warren Harding, Al MacDonald, Glen Denny

Glory 30’ belay takes

summit! 8 1.5-3”
if bivying, belay &
haul from here
Guano Ledge
3 150’ 150’ easy slab
good bivy Dano 80’
Ahwahnee Ledge for 3 Ledge 8
great bivy for 4-5
5.6 slab Wet
ok bivy for 6-7
Denim 11c
13a or
or C2
5.11+R A0 .5-4”
var.
12b stem or lb

easy
hooks 4”

11b or C1+
12d 140’ 7
sustained poor bivy for 1
5.5
C2
.4-1”
80’ so
awkward mantel steep!
or C2

12b A2+ or
Rack: .3-2”
C3 2 Beaks: 2 ea #3 (hand place) C1+
Nuts: 1-2 ea micro, 1 ea regular or 12c
.3-1.5” Cams: 2 ea .3-1” (2 ea regular, 1 ea offset)
2 ea 1.5-2”
C2 or 12c
2 80’
1 ea 4”
Offset Cams: 2 ea 40’
2 Heads: 1 ea #3-#4 (in case they’re missing) 11b
3 Hooks: 1 ea talon, cliffhanger, grappling or
p C2 C1
Camhooks
.4-2”

6 140’
1 120’ Pitches 1&2 link with a 60m
rope. Not recommended – you
need too many draws to clip 11c
every piece in order to be or
benevolent to your cleaner. C1
few
.3-.4” C2
hooks

Heading For many

Jesus Oblivion .4-2”

Free 11c fingers

Route or
dead C1
Roulette
tree
ok bivy Love
for 2 Without 5 80’
Anger descent
300’ to super exposed route
ground 5.4 13a
or
(fix rope) A0
12aR

5.7
nice flat spot slopers
4 100’

110’ haul from 10c

Guano Ledge or
C1

11d
Free mantel
Route
12c 12b or C2
Guano or
Ledge C3
5.11+ reachy
Ahwahnee Ledge free route
slab

434 | Leaning Tower

West Face, which starts from an exposed ledge
three hundred feet off the deck, is outrageously
steep and intimidating for being less than ten
pitches of easier bigwall climbing. The cruxes are 30’ 8
4th 8 80’
a few awkward, flaring placements. The rack is
light because most pitches contain many bolts or 12b or C2
fixed pieces and the cracks take a nice variety of 7 140’
gear. West Face is similar in difficulty to the Prow,
but is half a day easier because it’s shorter.
Plan: Most folks spend half a day shuttling two 12c or C1+
6 140’
loads to the base and maybe fixing the first pitch.
Day two climb to Awahnee Ledge and fix above.
Day three climb to the top and descend. The
popularity of free climbing on the route has 11c or C1
made aid climbing the pitch to Ahwahnee, and
the first pitch afterward, more challenging as 5 80’
fixed pieces are periodically removed for hand-
holds. No big deal for someone with at least one 13a or 5.7 A0
wall under their belt but sometimes it’s challeng- 4100’
ing for total beginners. Nearly all parties climb
the route clean, but there is tons of fixed gear. 150’ 12c or C3
The occasional hand-placed #3 beak can be nice. 3

If a fixed piece is missing you may have to use a Ahwahnee

cheater stick, or do a couple difficult camhook 12d or C3 Ledge
moves. It’s a good idea to have at least a long
quickdraw with a stick taped on it to make a
short cheater stick, just in case.
2 80’
The Elements/Retreat: Leaning Tower gets sun
from mid-afternoon to sunset. It can be surpris- C2
ingly hot in the middle of the summer, compared 1120’
to say Mideast Crisis on Washington Column
C2
which gets the shade in early afternoon. You can
rappel the West Face from any point, but it is not
easy because it is so steep. To rappel, the first
climber goes down, clipping many fixed pieces
to stay in close to the wall, and to be able to
reach the next belay. The second climber then
rappels, and is pulled in by the first climber
below using the ends of the rope, to remove the
quickdraws. This is strenuous and difficult for
both climbers. In theory this is a decent route in
a storm, and the climbing is mostly protected,
but the approach and descent go through a
steep boulder field which can be treacherous
when wet and icy.

Photo: Tom Evans 435

 30’ 8
4th 8 80’

12b or C2
FA History: Warren Harding, with many friends, 7 140’
made the first ascent over a ten-month period.
He topped out with Glen Denny and Al
MacDonald in October, 1961. 12c or C1+
6 140’
MacDonald started the route with Harding on
New Years Eve 1960, but their attempt ended
just 70 feet up when Harding was hurt by a
dislodged rock. When MacDonald asked 11c or C1
Harding if he could move his head at all, Harding
responded, “Yeah. All the way around. I can see 5 80’
pretty good, too - two of everything.” 13a or 5.7 A0
The accident forced Harding to take six months 4100’
off from climbing. But by the following summer
he was back to toiling at his project. It’s wild to 150’ 12c or C3
think that back then no one thought of the 3

impact on the nearby wildlife of having to listen Ahwahnee

to Harding and his friends hand drilling, which is 12d or C3 Ledge
particularly noisy, for days at a time!
The climbing progressed, using fixed ropes for
the entire ascent. Some local climbers began 2 80’
grumbling about Harding’s excessive use of
fixed ropes and bolts. But just like today, the C2
grumbling ceased when the route was repeated 1 120’
and folks confirmed its quality. When it comes to C2
ethics, the more things change, the more they
remain the same.

FFA History: Leo Houlding and Jason Pickles

freed the route, except for the opening 60m bolt
ladder, in May 2001. They rated it 5.13a A0, the
A0 being the aid rating used for a bolt ladder.
They named their route the Westie Face after the
charming Scottish dog breed the Westie.

436 Photo: Tom Evans

 Westie Face (Free West Face) V 5.13a A0
FFA(skipping first two pitches): May 2001 - Leo Houlding, Jason Pickles

Westie Face is wildly steep by

Valley standards. The aid, or Glory 30’ belay takes
Summit! 9 1.5-2.5”
if bivying, belay & french free, climbing is easy
haul from here
Guano Ledge because of abundant fixed gear,
3 150’ 150’ so this is an easy route to check easy slab
good bivy Dano 80’
out. Shady till late afternoon, for 3 Ledge 9
Ahwahnee Ledge
great bivy for 4-5
make sure you bring a tarp to
5.6 slab Wet
ok bivy for 6-7 sit out the heat of the day Denim 11c
13a on the palatial Ahwahnee Ledge.
5.11+R .5-4”
var.
Rack: 12b stem or lb

Nuts: 1 ea
hooks
Cams: 3 ea .3”-1” 4”
2 ea 1.25“-2”
1 ea 3”,4” 11b
12d 140’ 8
sustained Offset Cams: 1 ea poor bivy for 1
5.5

.4-1”
80’ 2
awkward mantel
Approach: so
steep!
or C2 45 - 60 minutes
From the bathrooms at the Bridalveil Fall .3-2”
12b parking lot, walk toward a house-sized boulder 12c
with a good trail heading up the hill beside
.3-1.5” it. Follow the trail uphill for a few hundred feet
until you reach a boulder field (slick when
12c
wet). Angle up and right through the boulder
1 200’ 40’
field. Be patient, and look for the cairns 7

that mark the path. When you reach the base 11b
of the wall continue up and right to a nice flat
p spot below the traverse ledge from which all
Leaning Tower routes start. The last 100’ of .4-2”
this traverse ledge, before the route, is super
exposed 5.4. Fix a rope to shuttle gear.
6 140’

Descent: 11c
From the summit anchor, wandering 5.5 down-
few
.3-.4” C2
climbing or two 50m rappels brings you to the
hooks flat area above the Leaning Tower Chimney. Rappel
the chimney with one 60m rope to avoid dislodging
loose rocks. The rappels lead to the base of the wall
Heading For 250’ above where you left the trail to head out on the many
Jesus Oblivion the Leaning Tower Traverse Ledge to the route. Continue .4-2”
down the approach trail. 11c fingers
Free
Route
dead
Roulette
tree
ok bivy Love
for 2 Without 5 80’
Anger descent
300’ to super exposed route
ground 5.4 13a
(fix rope)
12aR

5.7
nice flat spot slopers
4 100’

110’ haul from 10c

Guano Ledge

11d
Free mantel
Route
12b
Guano
Ledge 12c
5.11+ reachy
Ahwahnee Ledge free route
slab

Leaning Tower | 437

 Roulette VI 5.6 A4 4th class traverse
FA: March 1984 - Earl Redfern, Tom Bepler to West Face descent
route
8 40’

5.6
C1

x
x
115’ 4 x xx x
Rack: C2
.3-1”

29 Beaks: 16 ea #3, 8 ea #2, 5ea #1

6 LAs: 2 ea #1-#3 xx 7 110’

2 Angles: 1 ea 1/2”, 5/8” A3+ many

Sloping Bivy Ledge
thin beaks
Nuts: 1 ea
.3-2”
Cams: 3 ea .3-1”
2 ea 1.25-2” A2
Offset Cams: 2ea
10 Heads + Butterknife few
Hooks: 2 ea ( inc. pointed) .3-1”

Camhooks A3
115’ 3
10 Rivet Hangers (mostly thin) beaks
Bolt Kit xx
A3
rotten

6 150’

few
.3-1.75”
long reach

A4
LAs thin

few
xx 2 115’ .3-.75”
heads -- x x
x
x 5 115’
- xx x x
x
A4
A3+
beaks
ep

x
-x
ee
ee
St

“Battle of
x the Bulge”
x
few x x
.5-2”
A2+
-
- xx 100’
x-- 1
x x
4 xxx x
Heading for x
x
West
Face
Oblivion -

x
x
dead ok bivy
-thin - -A4-hooks Love
Without descent
tree for 2 Anger route
super exposed
5.4
mother
oak
The Leaning Tower is dominantly composed of rocks of the
intrusive suite called Buena Vista Crest. Buena Vista
Crest is younger than the intrusive suite of Yosemite Valley
and includes rocks such as the North America Diorite, nice flat spot
Leaning Tower Granite, and Bridalveil Granodiorite.

438 | Leaning Tower

West Face, pitch 4. Photo: Robin Batha West Face, pitch 4. Photo: Erik Sloan

Ahwahnee Ledge. Photo: Robin Batha

Fifi Buttress
Fifi Buttress is mostly a free climbing crag
now. For these topos refer to Rock Climbing
3 Yosemite Valley: 750 Best Free Routes.

1 4
5

1
2

5 6

2
4
3
1) Center of the Universe  5.11a/b
2) Voyager  5.11c 5
3) Final Frontier  5.13a/b
6
4) Romulan Warbird  5.12c
5) The Vortex  5.12d
6) The Next Generation  5.13a
Photo: Ryan Kirtland
Pitch 13, New Dawn (p.196). Photo: Roger Putnam 441
 Climber on the Zebra on Tis-sa-ack, 5.8 A3,
Half Dome Northwest Face (p.358). Photo: Glen Denny
 YOSEMITE SPEED RECORDS
This is a list of all known speed records in Yosemite Valley. Times are reported in hour:minute
format except for selected records that are listed in hour:minute:second. First-one-day ascents
(FOD) and Solo records are listed for selected routes. Please submit corrections, new/unlisted
records to erik@yosemitebigwall.com.

2021 Speed Records:

Double NIAD – The Nose, El Capitan 18:30 April 2021 Roger Putnam, Beau Skalley
Sunkist, El Capitan 15:57 May 2021 Lance Colley, Tyler Karow

2020 Speed Records:

Squeeze Play, El Capitan 11:08 October 2020 Lance Colley, Cody Hays
Mescalito, El Capitan 13:46 July 2020 Brandon Adams, Roger Putnam
Muir, El Capitan 12:07 October 2020 Brandon Adams, Roger Putnam, Tom Herbert
Aurora, El Capitan 13:02 October 2020 Brandon Adams, Lance Colley

All Speed Records List:

EL CAPITAN:
West Face 1:56:16 November 1999 – Hans Florine, Timmy O’Neil
8:16 June 2000 – Hans Florine (Two El Cap routes in a day solo!)
Mr. Midwest 7:40 July 2001- Hans Florine, Steve Schneider, Jacqueline Florine
Realm of the Flying Monkeys 9:59 July 1999 – Hans Florine, Peter Coward
Mirage 20:02 October 1995 – Steve Gerberding, Dave Bengston, Al Swanson
Lurking Fear 3:04:54 May 2003 – Yuji Hirayama, Nick Fowler
9:20 June 2000 – Hans Florine (Two El Cap Routes in a day solo!)
7:47 September 2014 – Libby Sauter, Quinn Brett (Women’s record)
Lost World 12:25 Sept 2019 Brandon Adams, Rebecca Church
Squeeze Play 11:08 October 2020 Lance Colley, Cody Hays
West Buttress 7:01 April 2013 – David Allfrey, Alex Honnold
20:08 September 1996 – Kevin Thaw FOD
Octopussy 16:08 September 2013 – David Allfrey, Cheyne Lempe, Scott Deputy (FOD)
Never Never Land 11:47 September 2018 Camden Clements, Brandon Adams
Aquarian Wall 23+ October 2000 – Steve Schneider, Greg Murphy, Peter Coward
Horse Chute/Horse Play 20:39 October 2004 – Ammon McNeely, Chris McNamara (FOD)
23 Days October 2013 – Pete Zabrok (Solo)
Dihedral Wall 14:06 September 2002 – Steve Gerberding, Hans Florine (FOD /Hammerless)
Excalibur 16:10 September 1998 – Dave Allfrey, Alex Honnold
Salathe 4:55 May 2012 – Alex Honnold, Sean Leary
16:24 June 2018 – Josie McKee, Diana Wendt
20:06 November 2013 – Cheyne Lempe (Solo)
16:00 June 2000 – Tommy Caldwell (Free)
El Corazon 15:30 September 2014 – Tommy Caldwell, Alex Honnold
Son of Heart 29:24 September 1993 – Hans Florine, Steve Schneider, Peter Coward
Sunkist 15:57 May 2021 Lance Colley, Tyler Karow
Magic Mushroom 20:02 May 2008 Tommy Caldwell (Free)
Flight of the Albatross 9:32 September 2017 Roger Putnam, Brandon Adams
The Shield 8:55 May 2018 Roger Putnam, Brandon Adams
Muir Wall 12:00 September 2014 – Alex Honnold, Josh McCoy (Free via Shaft var.)
12:07 October 2020 Brandon Adams, Roger Putnam, Tom Herbert
Triple Direct 5:15 June 2014 – Alex Honnold, Dave Allfrey

444
 16:42 October 2017 – Josie McKee, Quinn Brett, Lauren DeLaunay
17:29 July 2014 – Hans Florine (solo)
Grape Race 8:21 August 2014 – Roger Putnam, Erik Sloan
The Nose 1:58:10 June 2018 Alex Honnold, Tommy Caldwell
4:43 October 2014 – Libby Sauter, Mayan Smith-Gobat (Women’s speed
record)
21:50 August 2016 Miranda Oakley (Women’s Speed Solo Record)
5:50 July 2010 – Alex Honnold (Solo Triple – Nose, Half Dome, Watkins in a
day solo)
12:00 June 2017 – Leah Pappajohn, Jonathan Fluery. NNIAD - Naked Niad –
First Naked El Cap!
18:30 April 2021 Roger Putnam, Beau Skalley. DNIAD - Double NIAD!
Tribal Rite 16:17 October 23, 2016 – Robbie Brown, Brandon Adams
Genesis 20:25 June 2019 Brandon Adams, Chris Gay and Steven Tata
New Dawn 23:50 October 1999 – Damian & William Benegas
Reticent Wall 34:57 July 2006 – Ammon McNeely, Dean Potter, Ivo Ninov
Mescalito 13:46 July 2020 Brandon Adams, Roger Putnam
Wall of Early Morning Light 23:43 – September 2004 Ammon McNeely, Brian McCray (FOD)
Pacific Ocean Wall 33:02 May 2004 – Ammon McNeely, Ivo Ninov
North America Wall 9:36 September 1999 – Miles Smart, Timmy O’Neil
Wyoming Sheep Ranch 29:31 October 1999 – Russel Mitrovitch, Eric George, Sean Leary
New Jersey Turnpike 12:24:02 June 2014 – David Allfrey, Alex Honnold (Started on first 2
pitches of El Niño)
Atlantic Ocean 23:38 August 2004 – Ammon McNeely, Brian McCray
Iron Hawk 30:42 May 2004 – Ammon McNeely, Cedar Wright
Native Son 23:53 May 2006 – Ammon McNeely, Ivo Nivov
Scorched Earth 22:28 October 2011 – Ammon McNeely, David Allfrey, Skiy DeTray
Aurora 13:02 October 2020 Brandon Adams, Lance Colley
Tangerine Trip 9:28 June 2014 – Alex Honnold, David Allfrey
15:53 October 2002 – Nick Fowler (Solo)
Virginia 13:58 August 2012 – David Allfrey, Scott Deputy
Lost in America 18:04 August 2004 – Ammon McNeely, Brian McCray
KAOS 27:50 December 1999 – Eric George, Sean Leary, Jimmy Haden
Zenyatta Mondatta 16:53 October 2014 – Skiy DeTray, David Allfrey, Cheyne Lempe
Shortest Straw 12:20 October 2002 – Skiy DeTray, David Allfrey, Cheyne Lempe
Zodiac 1:51 October 2003 – Alex and Thomas Huber
10:52 June 2018 David Allfrey (solo)
Lunar Eclipse 11:22 September 2012 – Alex Honnold, David Allfrey
Born Under a Bad Sign 22:22 October 2002 – Ammon McNeely, Chris Van Leuvan
Plastic Surgery Disaster 21:37 June 2001 – Ammon McNeely, Brian McCray
Bad Seed 19:12 September 1998 – Hans Florine, Brian McCray, Wayne Willoughby (FOD/ With
a disabled person)
Eagle’s Way 7:56 June 2014 – Alex Honnold, David Allfrey
On the Waterfront 17:07 July 1999 – Ammon McNeely, Skiy Detray (FOD)
Pressure Cooker 23:41 September 2004 – Ammon McNeely, Ivo Ninov (FOD)
Waterfall Route 6:29 August 28, 2016 – Roger Putnam, Brandon Adams
Chinese Water Torture 17:15 October 1999 – Steve Schneider, Scott Stowe, Lance Allred
Dark Star 20:09 July 2002 – Steve Gerberding, Scott Cosgrove, Al Swanson (FOD)

East Buttress 1:30 September 1997 – Hans Florine, Abby Watkins

445
 CAMP 4 WALL:
Good Ol’ Boy 12:00 May 2014 – Jon Griffin, Ryan Baker, Erik Sloan

YOSEMITE FALLS WALL:

Dante’s Inferno 15:00 October 1995 – Iaschan Rupp and ?
Lost Arrow Direct 7:20 October 2016 – Quinn Brett, Josie McKee

ARCHES WALL:
Royal Arches 0:52:06 May 2000 – Cedar Wright (Solo, Car-to-Car)
Bulging Puke 6:05 October 2017 – Brandon Adams, Sean Warren

WASHINGTON COLUMN:
Southern Man 2:38 June 2001 – Jason Smith, Cedar Wright
South Face 0:53 September 2012 – Alex Honnold, Sean Leary
Skull Queen 2:59 June 2000 – Ammon McNeely, Cedar Wright
Re-Animator 11:56 June 1999 – Chris McNamara, Jacob Schmitz
The Prow 3:01 June 2000 – Jason Smith, Cedar Wright
6:31 October 1999 – Willie Benegas (Solo)
Ten Days After(*) 6:48 July 2015 – Roger Putnam, Justin Jendza(*used Prow Start)
Ten Days After 15:52 July 2015 – Ken Kreis (solo)

MT. WATKINS:
South Face 2:20 June 2012 Alex Honnold (Solo)

QUARTER DOME:
Pegasus 6:00 May 1994 – Greg Murphy, Chandlee Harrell (Quarter Dome and Half Dome in a day)

HALF DOME:
Regular Northwest Face 1:22 June 2012 – Alex Honnold (Solo)
Direct Northwest Face 8:20 June 1998 – Dean Potter, Jose Pereyra
11:25 September 1999 – Miles Smart (Solo)
Tis-sa-ack 14:00 July 2000 – Jake Whittaker, Sean Kriletich
The Jet Stream 18:50 October – 1999 Eric George, Russ Mitrovitch, Jared Ogden

PORCELAIN WALL:
Direct North Face 8:00 June 2016 – Joe Marley, Brandon Adams

LIBERTY CAP:
Southwest Face 6:13 October 2016 – Quinn Brett, Josie McKee

GLACIER POINT:
Galactic Hitchhiker 2:15 Oct 10, 2015 – Jim Reynolds (solo)

MIDDLE CATHEDRAL:
East Buttress 0:29 October 2012 – Sean Leary (Solo)

LEANING TOWER:
Roulette 11:50 May 2019 Brandon Adams, Kristoffer Wickstrom
West Face 1:16 October 2012 – Alex Honnold, Sean Leary
3:37 January 2002 – Nick Fowler (Solo)
Wet Denim Daydream 2:55 June 2013 – Alex Honnold, David Allfrey
7:30 May 2002 – Nick Fowler (solo)

446
Photo: Riky Felderer

Nano 22
At 22 grams, the Nano 22 is the lightest fully-functional
carabiner on the market with unique attributes that set it
apart from other smaller carabiners. Like an inner
working space large enough to use a clove hitch with
ropes of any diameter, a gate opening wide enough for
easy clipping on the sharp end, a prooled nose that
slips in and out of tight chain links, and 8 colors for
individually racking cams.

Actual Size

camp-usa.com
Chris Koppl on Lunar Eclipse, El Capitan (p.256). Photo: Vitaliy Musiyenko
 ELEPHANT ROCK HIGHLINES
A perfect year-around highline area since there are no
Park Exit
road closures like Taft, no bird closures like Rostrum, and
no climbing required like Lost Arrow Spire. The
approach is even shorter than the Rostrum.

All anchors are 3-bolt glue-ins. The 30m wraps a giant

Par
k ing boulder on one side and shares the bolts with the 275m
Y4
1 on the other side.
HW

m
tru
Ros Head
ra il FT
T
00
10

50
m
27
5m

30 m
Elephant Rock
ant`s
Eleph ard
y
Grave

450 Ryan Jenks walking 275 meter

Photo: Bobby Hutton
 ROSTRUM HIGHLINES
Wawona
Tunnel Park
1 mile Exit

41
WY
H
Classic highlining with a short hike. Access the
Rostrum by rappelling off tree into notch, climb an
Rock Wall Trail starts
at the end
easy but airy short 5.6 with .4-2” cams. Use the
of rock wall
climbing rope as your tag line. The 20m is off level.
The 35m is amazing. To tag the far side use a fishing
line and pole from up high on ramp and reel in the
tag. Everything is bolted except far side of 163m.
DON’T wrap house size boulder. It may not be
attached to wall enough, so wrap the smaller
boulders behind it and just use the big one as an A
frame. 60m rope jumps are rigged off the 100m.

10 minute hike
up the slabs
to the road

m
30 mp
Ra
50 m

50 m

lly
oad

Gu
R
il to
Tra

50 m

16 10 7
m
3m 0m

20 m
35 m
Not
ch

The
Rostrum

Easy, short, but airy

5.6 climb to access
the Rostrum side

Ryan Jenks on 163 meter

Garrison on 35 meter
Photo: Kimberly Weglin 451
 LOST ARROW HIGHLINES
The most classic highline area in the world. There is
so much slackline history around this rock including
the very first (high) highline sent by Scott Balcom in
1985. The hike is brutal, the climb is technical but
the exposure is unreal. All rappels are bolted to
access the wall-side anchors. The 16m (55ft) classic
requires 3” to 4” cams. A 50m rappel brings you to 4
glue-in bolts for the 50m highline. A 10m rappel
brings you to 4 normal bolts for the 33m highline.
The spire has 2 glue-in bolts for the 3 lines. Exten-
sive video beta can be found on youtube at
HowNOTtoHighline.

Kim Weglin on 50m

Ryan Jenks on 16m
Kyle Lovett on 33m
Friedi Kühne on spire
Lukas Irmler on spire
Photo: Zollie Goodman

452
 TAFT POINT HIGHLINES

Taft Pa
ingrk
All short lines have 3 glue in bolt anchors
lly
Far side is rigged off trees or boulders Gu
nt
Gia

100 m
195 m
m
h 20
tc
No
To

291 m

m
Taft is a classic and popular area because it’s very

30
exposed and easy to rig (the short lines at least).
Due to the short hike and the scenic views, this area

ing
Poh

Rail
o
has many park visitors unlike most other highline no
Tra
il

areas in the valley. This is also where the largest line

in Yosemite has been set up numerous times at 291

m
50
meters or 954 feet long. This in theory could be
rigged off the bolts for the 50m but it is more
common to rig off the boulders behind them in
order to make it as level as possible. The far side is
either obvious trees to wrap or a scorpion boulder
wrap for the 195m. Toss tag line down the Taft
Point side and rappel off the low angle side to get it
and pull it back up. REALLY PAD your anchor and
webbing when rigging the 50m.

Mauro Poletti walking 195 meter

Photo: Ryan Jenks 453
 We brea
k sh#t and
d
Learn an o human testin
d Laugh g

Live life high... Safely. It’s all FREE at

www.SLACKLINE.com

454
Kim Weglin on Taft 291m
Photo: Ryan Jenks 455
 SIERRA POINT HIGHLINES
Approach/Descent Overview Sierra Point is a newly developed year-round highline
area on the farthest southeast end of the valley. Said to
To Curry
Village
To Mirror
Lake be John Muir’s favorite trail in Yosemite, Sierra Point
Mist Trail &
offers stunning views of Vernal, Nevada, Illilouette, and
JMT trailhead
Yosemite Falls. With a mid-length strenuous approach,
Happy Grizzly Peak
Isles Bus st
op 16
Exit Mist Trail left directly behind technical natural rigging, and tricky navigation down
Nature “rock piles” interpretive
Center,
restrooms
sign into talus rappels, it is not for the budding highliner. The trail itself
was closed in the 1970’s due to a massive rockslide that
After 5 min of talus
buried and ruined many sections of the approach. Due to
scrambling, find
a lightly traveled the difficulty of the missing portions of the trail the NPS
trail leading up
through rock and trees does not recommend that anyone hikes it. For those up
on strenuous 2nd and 3rd
class terrain for 40 minutes for the challenge, you’re rewarded with two scenic
to Sierra Point
adventure highlines! You cannot drive cars to this area of
Sierra Point
the valley so either ride a bike 10 minutes from Curry
Village Parking or take the shuttle bus to stop #16 and
begin the approach on the popular Mist Trail.

To Vernal & Nevada Fall

Mitch Jacobs on the 35m line

Photo: Gabriel Mann

456
 To Grizzly Peak

The near-side anchors are rigged natural-

To Happy ly on cams. There are cracks all over the
Isles
main lookout area ranging in size from .2
to #4 cams and the cracks that take gear
Short 4th class downclimb
are anywhere from 1m to 10m+ back
from the cliff edge so bring lots of rope to
build anchors and back them up. The
static-side anchors are bolted with
Tension traverse
right to deviation bolt glue-ins. A series of deviating rappels are
necessary to access the far side anchors.
Exposed 4th class traverse.
To tag, cast fishing line
from 5-trunk tree to
For the rappels, one 60m rope is needed
Fix rope on tree and
pay out slack to Rappel off
.3 & .4 cams
static side of 73m
to access the 35m line and two 60’s for
deviation bolt

Walk right
the 73m line. The 35m can be tagged by
on ledge
passing a tagline around trees while en
73 m
route to the far-side. Once the 35m is
tagged, a fishing line can be cast the rest
m
35

of the gap to the far side of the 73m.

457
Stone Nudes
The Book: Climbing Bare

StoneNudes features over 200

pages of artwork that illustrates
the harmony between human
form and climbing’s vertical
landscape.
Alex Honnold and Sonny Trotter on the FFA of La Niña, El Capitan. Photo: Austin Siadak
 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BIGWALL
CLIMBING IN YOSEMITE
Yosemite is unique and unlike any other bigwall climbing area – not only are the cliffs right
beside paved roads, but in season the climate is perfect as it barely rains or storms. And the
rock quality? It’s impeccable! Yosemite is a rock climber’s paradise, so it’s only natural that
American climbing developed here.

1940s-1950s
In 1947, John Salathé and Ax Nelson topped out on
the Lost Arrow Chimney after a five-day ordeal –
burly! John forged the world’s first hardened-steel
pitons – today’s Lost Arrows – but that was the limit
of technology. There weren’t any Netflix Yosemite
geology documentaries being filmed at the bivy for
these hardmen – TV hadn’t been invented yet, nor
had computers, sticky rubber, the internet, cell
phones, nor even copperheads and cams.

In the late 1950s, two soon-to-be icons of Yosemite

bigwall climbing crawled out of the boulders, or rather
appeared on the summit of Yosemite’s tallest walls:
Royal Robbins (Half Dome in ’57) and Warren Harding
(El Cap in ’58). They were diametric opposites. Robbins
was a flatlander who lived on the coast and dashed to
the mountains to show his prowess, and promulgated
an ethic of minimalist athletic-focused climbing.
Basically, the guy was kind of an uptight jock. Harding,
a mountain man from Lake Tahoe, succeeded on
El Cap in spectacular style. He didn’t just climb the
mountain; he had Thanksgiving Dinner on Dolt Tower
with several friends – complete with an entire stuffed
turkey and gallons of wine. Harding pioneered an ethic
of celebrating the vertical environment – sometimes
a little over-the top for sure, but simply an awesome
pioneering influence on our sport.

1957 Regular Northwest Face, Half Dome. Royal

Robbins, Mike Sherrick, Jerry Gallwas,
1958 The Nose, El Capitan. Warren Harding,
Wayne Merry, George Whitmore
1959 East Face, Washington Column (later
Astroman). Warren Harding, Glen Denny,
Chuck Pratt
Royal Robbins (top) Photo: Jerry Gallwas;
Warren Harding (bottom) Photo: George Whitmore

460
1960s
By the 1960s, Yosemite bigwalls were a thing, albeit a small thing. Heck, Jim Bridwell talked
forever about how up until the 80s, you knew everyone who had climbed the big routes.
Robbins’ partner Yvon Chouinard was making and selling pitons out of his sedan in Camp 4.
An American innovation, these hardened-steel pitons allowed Yosemite to really be climbed,
as the soft iron pitons from Europe didn’t last long on Yosemite’s bullet-proof granite.

Yvon Chouinard and Tom Frost started Chouinard Equipment, selling pitons, carabiners
and the first nuts and hexes. In the 1980s, the company was sued several times when
climber error resulted in equipment failure. The company was sold to a few of the
employees, who renamed it Black Diamond. Royal Robbins started his eponymous
outdoor apparel company in 1967, and Chouinard followed suit with his own outdoor
clothing company Patagonia, which he founded in 1973.

Robbins, Chouinard, and Tom Frost – a super cool dude, not as uptight as the other two – kept
developing new, largely clean climbing equipment, and cranking out the Yosemite bigwall first
ascents. In 1961, Robbins and Frost climbed the NW Face of Higher Cathedral Spire, a proud
12-pitch route up a clean face that really exemplifies how these guys pushed it. Salathé Wall
was also established that year by Robbins, Frost, and Chuck Pratt. To this day, Salathé invokes a
bold style of ascent – you have to switch cracks, bust free moves, wrestle offwidths and basically
go-for-it so much more than on other routes. This crew’s aid climbing skills would be respected
today too – with no cams or heads. Their 1964 route North America Wall was rated A5 at the
time. In 1965, Yvon and TM Herbert put up the Muir Wall – the first El Cap route established
without reconnaissance or fixed ropes, and the first time an El Cap FA was made by a team of
two. Previous first ascent teams had been three or four!

Layton Kor, Steve Roper and Glen Denny racking up (with friends) for the third ascent of the Nose, 1963.
Photo: Glen Denny

461
 After climbing Nutcracker clean, Summit magazine published Robbins’ “Nuts to You” article
expounding clean climbing ethics, but to this day, this whole notion of clean climbing is
conflicted. Whenever possible, we all want to continue using clean gear to reduce our impact
on the rock, but not to the point of browbeating climbers – as some McGuidebooks have tried
in the past – into taking unnecessary risk. Always put safety first, only then try to climb as
cleanly as possible. It’s an aid route – don’t artificially inflate its rating just to be clean.

Harding kept after it too, establishing so many classic routes and cementing his reputation
as a bigwall party animal. It’s refreshing to know that Robbins didn’t keep everyone at home
doing pullups, wondering if they were good enough. Harding encouraged folks to enjoy the
distractions! The West Face of Leaning Tower, South Face of Mt. Watkins, Southwest Face of
Liberty Cap, The Rostrum and the one-day-to-be Astroman are a few of his prolific ascents
during this era.

There could have been a culture clash when Harding recruited Pratt and Chouinard to climb
the South Face of Mt. Watkins in 1964. But he didn’t get a chance to convince the others of
his better approach to bigwall climbing – there was a heat wave and the three had to climb
as quickly and efficiently as possible. They still almost died of dehydration, bringing only
1.5 quarts of water per person per day on the first ascent of a south-facing wall in July with
100-degree temps - wowza! This story reveals that ethics and style, while made out to be super
important for the early Yosemite pioneers, always came second after choosing solid partners!

The 1960s climbers were incredibly burly because they climbed these routes without
ascenders, sticky rubber, cams, belay devices or even harnesses – only webbing wrapped
around their waists!

1961 West Face, Leaning Tower. Warren Harding, Glen Denny, Al Macdonald
The Salathé Wall, El Capitan. Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, and Chuck Pratt
The NW Face of Higher Cathedral Spire. Royal Robbins, Tom Frost

1962 Dihedral Wall, El Capitan. Ed Cooper, Jim Baldwin, Glen Denny

Pegasus, Quarter Dome. Yvon Chouinard, Tom Frost

1963 West Buttress, El Capitan. Layton Kor, Steve Roper

Misty Wall, Yosemite Falls Wall. Royal Robbins, Dick McCracken
Direct NW Face, Half Dome. Royal Robbins, Dick McCracken

1964 South Face, Mt. Watkins. Warren Harding, Chuck Pratt, Yvon Chouinard
South Face, Washington Column. Layton Kor, Chris Fredericks
North America Wall, El Capitan. Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, Yvon Chouinard, Chuck Pratt
Yosemite gets its first climbing guide – Steve Roper’s A Climbers Guide to Yosemite Valley
Hans Florine is born in June!
1965 The Muir Wall, El Capitan. Yvon Chouinard, TM Herbert
1967 West Face, El Capitan. Royal Robbins, TM Herbert
The Nutcracker, Ranger Rock. Robbins completes the first ascent using only nuts – and
“clean climbing” is born
1968 Lost Arrow Direct. Warren Harding, Pat Callis
First solo ascent of El Capitan. Royal Robbins via the Muir Wall (!)
1969 Triple Direct, El Capitan. Jim Bridwell, Kim Schmitz
Southwest Face, Liberty Cap. Warren Harding, Galen Rowell, Joe Faint
The Prow, Washington Column. Royal Robbins, Glen Denny
Tis-sa-ack, Half Dome. Royal Robbins, Don Peterson

462
Chuck Pratt and Yvon Chouinard in Camp 4. Photo: Glen Denny
463
 1970s
In 1972, Jimmy Dunn became the first person to establish an El Cap route solo with his ascent
of Cosmos. His drills broke and he dropped his sleeping bag halfway up, but after nine days
he stood on the summit. Bridwell had supposedly scoped the line and spread the word that
anyone who went for it without him would have his legs broken. Dunn was a little gripped
when the first person he saw back on the deck was Bridwell, but the Bird was in a good mood.
He congratulated Dunn, and made him dinner.

Canadians Hugh Burton and Steve Sutton also got in on the first ascent blitz in the early 70s. As
teenagers on El Cap, the pair had only climbed the Nose when they ticked their first ascent of
Magic Mushroom. Dang!

By the 1970s, Jim Bridwell – who grew

up in the Bay Area and met Robbins
at a young age, emerged as the leader
and mentor in Yosemite climbing.
His free, bigwall, and alpine climbing
accomplishments are legendary still! Jim
Bridwell pushed climbing on so many
levels until a ripe old age. He partied hard,
but always kept the stoke, and mentored
many notable figures: Ron Kauk, John
Bachar, John Long, Werner Braun and Dale
Bard amongst many others. Bridwell was
the perfect fusion of Robbins and Harding
– he worked hard and he played hard. In
1975, he orchestrated and completed –
with John Long and Billy Westbay – the
first Nose In A Day ascent. They climbed
it using hammers and pitons, yet still
finished in daylight!

Also in ’75, Bridwell acolytes Bachar, Kauk,

and Long freed Astroman, an ascent that
pushed the imaginations of the era’s free
climbers. On the bigwalls, Bridwell was
moving climbing style into the space
between Robbins’ and Harding’s ethics:
He wanted to compete and wasn’t afraid
to manufacture difficulty to keep the
climbing serious. In 1971, he and Kim
Schmitz established Aquarian Wall on El
Cap after several attempts involving some
bad storms. Kim later confided that the
pair believed that chiseling copperheads,
drilling hooks, and placing sketchy rivets –
all to keep the difficulty of an aid climb at
the top level – was going to become more
accepted and commonplace. Bridwell put Bridwell in the 60s (top). Photo: Glen Denny
Bridwell in the 70s (bottom). Photo: Jay Fiske

464
 Bridwell and Dale Bard on Sea of Dreams, El Capitan (p. 216). Photo: Dave Diegelman

up dozens of climbs in this now-not-so-accepted style. By the mid-70s, some first ascensionists
– like Charles Cole, Walter Rosenthal, Mark Chapman and others – were making it a point to
say: “We don’t chisel heads or put in sketchy rivets – if a placement requires drilling, we drill in a
bolt or rivet.” Bridwell was super cool. I’ll always remember the time we fixed ropes to Timbuktu
Tower on Aquarian Wall, and got a bunch of climbers to jug up to attend a raging party a
thousand feet up El Cap. During this time, Bridwell and three friends were climbing Dihedral
Wall in capsule style right next to us – each day the leading team set off, and the hauling team
stayed a couple pitches below moving the bags. They climbed smoothly!

Bigwall climbing was largely a male-dominated sport for the first many years. Little could the
pioneers imagine that women would routinely tick off the hardest climbs in the Valley only a
few decades later.

A big reason for the explosion of bigwall climbing in the 1970s wasn’t just related to the new
gear being developed; it was also helped by the fact that camping limits in the Valley – if they
existed – were rarely enforced. This made it easier to spend a bunch of time in Yosemite and
connect with like-minded folks. Bridwell and his large crew were living in the Search and Rescue
site. Sibylle Hechtel, Bev Johnson, Ron Kauk, John Long, Lynn Hill, John Bachar and many others
raged the Valley scene in the 70s.

In 1977, Ray Jardine designed and introduced the first commercially-available cams, which he
called Friends, and Yosemite climbers rejoiced, along with the rest of the world!

465
 1970 Wall of the Early Morning Light.
Warren Harding, Dean Caldwell
South Face, Half Dome. Warren
Harding, Galen Rowell
1971 Son of Heart, El Capitan. Rick
Sylvester, Claude Wreford-Brown
1972 The Shield, El Capitan. Charlie
Porter, Gary Bocarde
Magic Mushroom, El Capitan.
Steve Sutton, Hugh Burton
Cosmos, El Capitan. Jimmy Dunn.
First Solo FA of El Cap!
New Dawn, El Capitan. Charlie
Porter
Zodiac, El Capitan. Charlie Porter
1973 Mescalito, El Capitan. Charlie
Porter, Steve Sutton, Hugh Burton,
Chris Nelson
Tangerine Trip, El Capitan. Charlie
Porter, J.P. St. Croix
First all-female ascent of El Capitan! Beverly Johnson and Sibylle Hechtel (pictured above)
via Triple Direct
1974 Horse Chute, El Capitan. Charlie Porter, Hugh Burton
1975 Excalibur, El Capitan. Charlie Porter, Hugh Burton
Nose In A Day (NIAD), El Capitan. John Long, Jim Bridwell, and Billy Westbay in 16 hrs!
Electric Ladyland, Washington Column. Gib Lewis, Rick Accomazzo, Richard Harrison
Jim Erickson and Art Higbee free the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome (altered by
rockfall in 2015, no one has re-established the free line but it’s only a pitch and half of bolts).
Pacific Ocean, El Capitan. Jim Bridwell, Bill Westbay, Jay Fiske, Fred East
Lost World, El Capitan. Cal Folsom, Dave Anderson, Mike Warburton
Astroman, Washington Column. John Bachar, Ron Kauk, John Long
1976 Lurking Fear, El Capitan. Dave & Phil Bircheff, Jim Pettigrew
Eagle’s Way, El Capitan. Mark Chapman, Jim Orey
1977 Wet Denim Daydream, Leaning Tower. Daryl Hatton, Angus Thuermer
1978 Never Never Land, El Capitan. Bruce Hawkins, Mark Chapman
Tommy Caldwell is born in August!
Fred Padula releases the film, El Capitan, an ascent of the Nose, shot by Glen Denny.
The most classic El Cap film!
Sunkist, El Capitan. Bill Price, Dale Bard
Zenith, Half Dome. Jim Bridwell, Kim Schmitz
Tribal Rite, El Capitan. Walter Rosenthal, Tom Carter, Alan Bard
Sea of Dreams, El Capitan. Jim Bridwell, Dale Bard, Dave Diegelman
Iron Hawk, El Capitan. Dale Bard, Ron Kauk
1979 Jolly Roger, El Capitan. Charles Cole, Steve Grossman
Born Under A Bad Sign (B.U.B.S.), El Capitan. Bill Price, Tim Washik
South Seas, El Capitan. Charlie Row, Bill Price, Guy Thompson

466
Lynn Hill on Half Dome. Photo: Charlie Row
467
 1980s
By the 1980s, Yosemite’s bigwalls started to get a different type of attention. Free climbers
were thinking, “Why do we gotta stand in aiders to scramble up those walls?” Tons of
new bigwall routes were established. The equipment continued to improve – 1985 saw
the arrival of Metolius TCUs. Colorful historical figures like Peter Croft, Jo Whitford, Walt
Shipley, John Middendorf, Scott Cosgrove, Dave Shultz and many others including Donny
Reid – the coolest guy and OG Yosemite guidebook author – lived in the Valley during this
developmental time in Yosemite’s bigwall history.

Walt Shipley, one of the less documented pioneers of this era, was a really nice guy and was
inspiringly motivated. Longtime Valley climber Pete Takeda remembered him: “Walt was an
aerospace engineer by trade. He’d quit his job to be a climber. He had a wealth of intelligence
and training, and he had an energy that couldn’t be contained by climbing alone. He had
a physical and temperamental resemblance to Van Gough, and the routes he authored are
notorious for being hard and dangerous. He died while kayaking.” In 1988, Todd Skinner and
Paul Piana succeeded on the first free ascent of Salathé Wall, and it was game on for bigwall
free climbing. In the late 80s, John Middendorf established A5 Gear, producing the original
Birdbeak – the precursor to today’s Peckers. Birdbeaks originally came only in the #1 or
smallest size.

1980 Beth Rodden is born in April!

Hall Of Mirrors, Glacier Point. Scotty Burk, Chris Cantwell
1981 Zenyatta Mondatta, El Capitan. Jim Bridwell, Peter Mayfield, Charlie Row
Aurora, El Capitan. Greg Child, Peter Mayfield
Bulging Puke, Arches Wall. Bill Russell, Chris Friel

1982 Lunar Eclipse, El Capitan. John Barbella, Steve Schneider – First Sombrero Ascent of El Cap!
1983 Mideast Crisis, Washington Column. Steve Bosque, Mike Corbett
1984 Wyoming Sheep Ranch, El Capitan. John Barbella, Rob Slater
Bermuda Dunes, El Capitan. Steve Schneider, John Barbella
Skull Queen, Washington Column. Chuck Clance, Jeff Altenburg, Steve Bosque
Roulette, Leaning Tower. Earl Redfern, Tom Bepler
1985 Atlantic Ocean, El Capitan. John Middendorf, John Barbella
Lost In America, El Capitan. Greg Child, Randy Leavitt
Alex Honnold is born in August!
Space, El Capitan. Charles Cole
1987 Peter Croft stuns the climbing community by free soloing Young Honnold.
Astroman, and shortly later linking Rostrum and Astroman solos. Photo: Dierdre Wolownick
Native Son, El Capitan. Walt Shipley, Troy Johnson
First Bigwall Enchainment: The Nose and Northwest Face of
Half Dome climbed in a day. Peter Croft, John Bachar
Ten Days After, Washington Column. John Barbella, Eric Brand

1988 El Cap, Free Salathé. Todd Skinner and Paul Piana do the
First Free Ascent at 5.13
Octopussy, El Capitan. Dan & Sue McDevitt

1989 Dante’s Inferno, Yosemite Falls Wall. Eric Kohl

Kali Yuga, Half Dome. Walt Shipley, John Middendorf
The Promised Land, Half Dome. Kevin Fosburg, Jeff Hornibrook, Troy Johnson
The Jetstream, Half Dome. Sean Plunkett, Bill Russell

468
Steve “Shipoopi” Schneider on an almost free ascent of Excalibur, El Capitan (p. 100). Photo: Chris Falkenstein

469
 1990s
In the 1990s, the women started attacking bigwall
free climbing. Lynn Hill astonished the climbing
world with her free ascent of the Nose: “It goes,
boys.” Steph Davis free climbed the Salathé Wall.
Beth Rodden slept in the trunk of her Honda Civic in
El Cap Meadow – the ladies were kicking butt and
everyone had bigwall fever! Things started heating
up, with plenty of new routes, first free-ascents, and
something novel – bigwall speed climbing.

Aliens and Offset Alien cams fit Yosemite’s pin scars

perfectly and the climbers were literally off to the
races. Peter Croft, Dave Shultz, and Lynn Hill were
some of the early speed and free climbers. Steve
Gerberding, Scott Stowe, and Dave Bengsten were
the ‘dream team’ for the speed aid walls – they
did the first push and first one-day ascents of so
many routes! Steve Gerberding became the first to
climb El Cap a hundred times in 1999. Gerberding
established the modern testpiece KAOS, and with
Stowe put up Reticent Wall. Steve is older now, so
if you see him in the meadow you’ll find him not as Alex and Thomas Huber and Cedar Wright goofing
off at Camp 4 (Cedar was on YOSAR for years).
reticent these days, lol. Photo: Dean Fidelman

Eric Kohl, definitely no socialite, continually pushed the limits of technical aid climbing and bigwall
free climbing, establishing dozens of 5.10 A4 routes - mostly solo. I remember some sponsored
climbers in the late 90s repeating one of his El Cap A5 routes. I think it was Kevin Thaw, Mark
Synnott, and Chris Kalous and they‘re up there adding bolts at the belays - exactly as I would have
done - and 5’7”,110 lbs Kohl is on the ground yelling up that they’re @ssholes for drilling on his
route, and that they should come down if they can’t climb it like he did. But when you’re soloing,
you don’t care if the belay is cramped because you’re never at it. And they didn’t come down.

1990 Shortest Straw, El Capitan. Rick Lovelace

Surgeon General, El Capitan. Walt Shipley, Eric Kohl
Re-Animator, Washington Column. Walt Shipley, Eric Kohl

1991 Plastic Surgery Disaster, El Capitan. Eric Kohl

Reckless Abandon, Yose Falls Wall. Eric Kohl

1992 Virginia, El Capitan. Steve Bosque, Chuck Clance

Southern Man, Washington Column. Francis Ross, Rich Albushkat
The Prism, Mt. Watkins. Urmas Franosch, Sean Plunkett
Jesus Built My Hotrod, Leaning Tower. Eric Kohl, Eric Rasmussen

1993 Lynn Hill stuns the climbing world when she frees the Nose. She calls it 13b (today it is 14a).
Flight Of The Albatross, El Capitan. John Middendorf, Will Oxx
Adam Ondra is born in February!
KAOS, El Capitan. Steve Gerberding
The Tempest, El Capitan. Jeff Hornibrook, Cayd Loyd, Brad Jarrett

1994 Lynn Hill Free Climbs The Nose In A Day!

Afroman, Washington Column. Jeff Hornibrook, Mark Carpenter
Steve Roper publishes “Camp 4” – the best early Yosemite climbing book

470
1995 Reason Beyond Insanity, Ribbon Fall. Sean Easton, Dave Sheldon
Reticent, El Capitan. Steve Gerberding, Scott Stowe, Laurie Reddel
When Hell Was In Session, Porcelain Wall. Eric Kohl, Pete Takeda
Galactic Hitchhiker, Glacier Point. Lou Renner, Matt Brooks
1997 Continental Drift, El Capitan. Steve Gerberding, Kevin Thaw, Conrad Anker
1998 Disorderly Conduct, El Capitan. Warren Hollinger, Miles Smart, Bart Groendycke
Nightmare On California Street, El Capitan. Warren Hollinger, Grant Gardner
El Niño, El Capitan. Alex and Thomas Huber.
Freerider, El Capitan. Alex Huber. El Cap Free climbed at 5.12d!
The Girdle Traverse, El Capitan. Chris McNamara, Mark Melvin
1999 Russ Mitrovitch climbs The Zodiac without a rope in 12 hours! Tom Evans,
Chris Mac, and I were watching him. Brutal to watch!
Strange World, Porcelain Wall. Bryan Law, Eric George
CCH Offset Alien Cams released, piton craft soon fades away
Chris McNamara, 19 yrs old and with fifty ascents of El Cap under his belt, self-
publishes his book Supertopo: Yosemite Bigwalls.

Steph Davis on the Salathé headwall (p.128). Photo: Jimmy Chin

471
 2000s
In the 2000s, bigwall climbing reached its all-
time height in popularity. In 2019 we had a bit
of a revival, but in general the ‘dot-com bubble’
of the late 90s and early 2000s was bigwall
climbing’s modern heyday. The free climbers
were freeing routes left and right, while the rest
of us were still pulling on gear on the 5.9 bits on
the Nose ;).

New bigwall routes were still being developed,

and the gear just kept getting better. Dean
Potter and Steph Davis were raging on the
scene, pushing hard on free, speed, and free
solo climbs. Hans Florine perfected the speed
game. Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden freed
El Cap routes at a blistering pace, then Alex
Honnold showed up and free soloed Half Dome.
Libby Sauter and Mayan Smith-Gobat were
burning rubber on the trade routes.

When BD released its beaks in three sizes, the

speed game really cranked up a notch. Reticent
Dean Potter, El Cap Meadow. Photo: Dean Fidelman
– still considered one of the harder aid routes –
is climbed in a push!

2000 Laughing At The Void, Ribbon Fall. Jerry, Sigrid, and Lynnea Anderson
Golden Gate, El Capitan. Alex Huber, Max Reichel
Free Lurking Fear, El Capitan. Tommy Caldwell, Beth Rodden
2001 El Corazon, El Capitan. Alex and Thomas Huber
The Shaft (Free Muir Wall), El Capitan. Tommy Caldwell, Nick Sagar
2002 Gates of Delirium, Ribbon Fall. Sean Jones, Jake Jones
Quantum Mechanic, Washington Column. Rob Miller, Jay Selvidge

2003 Free Zodiac, El Capitan. Alex and Thomas Huber

Free West Buttress, El Capitan. Tommy Caldwell
2004 Free Dihedral Wall, El Capitan. Tommy Caldwell
Richie Copeland establishes the ‘Alcove Swing’ in its longer, ‘Atlantis anchor’
position. Bigwall Bliss for the Newbies!
BD releases Peckers in three sizes…it’s like “one piton fits all!”
2006 The Secret Passage, El Capitan. Nico Favresse, Sean Villanueva
Reticent Wall in a push! 34 hrs, 57 min. Ammon McNeely, Dean Potter, Ivo Nonov
2007 Growing Up, Half Dome. Sean Jones, Sarah Watson
2008 Free Magic Mushroom, El Capitan. Tommy Caldwell
2009 Alex Honnold Free Solos Half Dome (age 23)!

472
Tommy Caldwell crushing on the Dihedral Wall, 2004 (p. 94). Photo: Corey Rich

473
 2010s
In 2015, Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson completed their ten-year project to free climb
the Dawn Wall. One year later, Czech phenom Adam Ondra repeated Dawn Wall free in only a
few weeks, undoubtedly one of the proudest Yosemite bigwall climbs in history. The following
year, Alex Honnold climbed El Cap ropeless with his free solo of Freerider, proving that nothing
is impossible! Then Tommy and Alex climbed the Nose in under two hours. Geez, the rest of
us punters had better have some serious parties up on the Big Stone to balance out all of this
athleticism, eh? Sheesh.

2010 The Prophet, El Capitan. Leo Houlding, Jason Pickles

2011 Totem cams re-released in America after the initial design had some flaws. Totem Life
Begins!
2012 Direct NW Face, Porcelain Wall. Erik Sloan, Richie Copeland

2013 Free Scarface, Liberty Cap. Luke Stefurak, Ben Steel

Mahtah, Liberty Cap. Cedar Wright, Lucho Rivera
Jericho, Jericho Wall. Josh Mucci, Steve Bosque

2014 Soul Garden, Mt. Watkins. Sean Leary, Jimmy Hayden, Seth Carter

2015 Free Heart Route, El Capitan. Mason Earle, Brad Gobright

Free Dawn Wall, El Capitan. Tommy Caldwell, Kevin Jorgeson
2016 Adam Ondra repeats Dawn Wall (with storms) in five weeks!
2017 The Platinum Wall, El Capitan. Rob Miller, Roby Rudolf (kind of a sad story this really
cool young guy from Santa Cruz Elliot Faber does all the heavy lifting with Rob, like drills
a hundred bolts and frees every pitch over several years, and then they get in a fight and
Rob finishes the climb with Roby)
Alex Honnold Free Solos El Capitan!
2018 Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell climb The Nose in 1:58:07!
2019 Wayward Son, Lost Brother. Brandon Adams
Blue Collar, Higher Cathedral Spire. Kevin Jorgeson
Passage To Freedom, El Capitan. Tommy Caldwell, Alex Honnold

Present Day
There is still a scene in Yosemite, but it has changed a lot from that of the previous
generations. YOSAR – the search and rescue squad – is more tightly controlled by the park
rangers who have taken over as the trained elite. Camping limits are now enforced, making
for more of a seasonal scene – a kind of graduate-level seminar if you will – where each
season you wait to see who joins in the fun. Many of us have taken regular jobs working
at the shops and hotels here in order to live in the Valley. It’s cool, just different. Most
importantly, we still meet up under Tom’s tree in El Cap Meadow to share drinks – legal on
federal land! – catch up with friends old and new, and talk shit. Because the best things in
life should never change. Come join us in the Center of the Universe!

474
Tom Frost, North America Wall (p.218). Photo: Glen Denny

475
 Circumambulate
El Capitan!
Top of The Nose
The East Ledges Rappels -
bring a rope or check
that the ropes are fixed!

The Hourglass
El Cap Gully III 5.5
The Ultimate Adventure Hike!

Start up from the pullout

Park Here
at the end of the meadow
Descend to The Manure Pile
Buttress Parking, and walk
back to the meadow

The summit

Fun Scramble!

Top of The Nose

The Hourglass

Bring a harness and

rappel device for
descending the East
Ledges.
Don’t go left to Ribbon
Fall. Veer right up the
gully.

Bring rock shoes (and This is the view from

maybe a skinny rope) right before the final, 5.5
for the final 5.5 pitch of pitch - most of the gully
the gully. is just wandering,
scrambling.
 Yosemite Locals
People come and go but the true locals stick around Canyon Wren
rain or shine. While climbing in Yosemite Valley,
chances are you will encounter some of the following
birds, mammals, reptiles and amphibians.

Humans and Monkeys aren't the only climbers! Bears

have been spotted on Royal Arches (5.7), rattlesnakes
have been known to come out of cracks, and squir-
rels have onsited your 5.12 project. If you're lucky
you might see some of Yosemite's more elusive
wildlife: Ring-tailed cats, flying squirrels, or even Photo: Gary L. Clark
the mountain lion. Only the attentive are rewarded
with a view of these Yosemite locals. Pileated Woodpecker
Acorn Woodpecker

Photo: Keith Sauer Photo: Vitaly Musiyenko

Great Grey Owl Steller's Jay

Photo: Keith Sauer Photo: Keith Sauer

Climbers are often rewarded with the best views, including views of these cliff- loving birds. Peregrine
Falcons are the world's fastest animal but Swifts give them a run for their money! Look for Ravens catching
the thermals (warm air updrafts) to help them soar.

Peregrine Falcon Raven White-throated Swift

Photo: Tom Slater Photo: Keith Sauer Photo: Dan Maxwell

478
Mule Deer Western Grey Squirrel

Photo: Tom Slater Photo: USFWS

Grey Fox Western Rattlesnake

Photo: Josh Helling Photo: Keith Sauer

Black Bear Bobcat

Photo: Keith Sauer Photo: Keith Sauer

Coyote Mountain Lion Western Fence Lizard

(Blue belly)

Photo: Keith Sauer Photo: Keith Sauer Photo: Keith Sauer

479
 The Sierra Nevada boasts some of
Mountain Pride Sierra Stonecrop
the highest plant diversity in the
United States!
Pictured here are a few of the col-
orful characters from Yosemite's
diverse and vibrant plant commu-
nities. These flowers and towering
trees can be found at your favorite
crag and on the approach. Don't
forget to stop to smell the flowers!
Photo: Dawn Endico Photo: Dawn Endico

Showy Milkweed Mariposa Lily Mountain Dogwood

(with monarch butterfly)

Photo: USDA Photo: Peretz

Photo: Dawn Partensky
Endico Photo: Max Pixel

Paintbrush Harlequin Lupine

Photo: Keith Sauer Photo: Keith Sauer

Did you know? Paintbrush is commonly found near Lupine and not always by chance. Lupine has the ability
to "fix" nitrogen (remove nitrogen from the air and make it usable in the soil) creating a more suitable habitat.
Paintbrush takes advantage of Lupine's remarkable ability to adapt to rocky and nutrient barren landscapes
by parasitizing Lupin, tapping into Lupine roots to aquire some of the wealth.

Snowplant Striped Coralroot Manzanita Western Redbud

Photo: Melinda J. Pierce Photo: Keith Sauer

Snowplant and Coralroot are also parasitic plants.
With no green on the plant (chlorophyll), they can't
make their own food. For food they tap into fungus
underground, which is getting their food from tree Photo: Jim Conrad Photo: Gena Wood
roots. Wild!
480
 SUGAR PINE TREE: LAURA CAMP; SP NEEDLES: JULIE KIERSTEAD NELSON; SP CONE: S. RAE; PONDEROSA PINE TREE: CLYDE FROGG; PP NEEDLES: CLYDE FROGG; PP CONE: CLYDE FROGG; JEFFREY PINE TREE: JHODLOF; JP NEEDLES: NPS; JP CONE: WILLEM VAN BERGEN; DOUGLAS
FIR TREE: PAUL SABLEMAN; DF NEEDLES: MAREK JAKUBOWSKI; DF CONE: PENN STATE UNIVERSIT Y; WHITE FIR TREE: DEREK RAMSEY; WF NEEDLES: MAREK JAKUBOWSKI; WF CONE: USDA-NRCS; RED FIR TREE: JSAYRE64; RF NEEDLES: MAREK JAKUBOWSKI; RF CONE: C.J. EARLE;
CALIFORNIA BLACK OAK TREE: ANLACE; CBO LEAVES: BLM; INCESNSE CEDAR TREE: VICTOR R. RUIZ; IC NEEDLES: MAREK JAKUBOWSKI; IC CONE: WALTER SIEGMUND; GIANT SEQUOIA TREE: MAREK JAKUBOWSKI; GS NEEDLES: DANIEL FUCHS; GS CONE: MENCHI

Sugar Pine

Douglas Fir

California Black Oak

White Fir

Incense Cedar
Ponderosa Pine

Red Fir
Jeffrey Pine

Giant Sequoia

481
 "HOOKING UP is a monumental work that will stand the test of time and should be
required reading for anyone with dreams of the Big Stone." - Alpinist Magazine

Since you already own this guidebook,
you also need to own HOOKING UP. It is
the perfect companion and will help you
reach the summit of your Yosemite big
wall! Cheers, eh?
ORDER: HOOKING UP - The Ultimate Big
Wall and Aid Climbing Manual
EMAIL: ”Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok
passthepitonspete@hotmail.com
Mason Earle and Brad Gobright on the first free ascent
of The Heart Route, 5.13d. Photo: Ben Ditto
Cathedral Peak in Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite
Don’t worry, Mom. We’re going big!
Artist: Naomi Plasterer
 Arin Trook (R.I.P.), Richie Copeland, and Erik on
the summit of El Cap, 2010. Photo: Renan Ozturk

Sadly, each year we lose climbers in

Yosemite, often to preventable accidents.
Safety First-ish!

Richie Copeland (R.I.P.) cruising the crux

of Atlantis, El Capitan. Photo: Tom Evans
Open 24 hours a day, seven days a week, the
Yosemite Chapel (non-denominational) is always
there for you if you need a quiet / peaceful space.

Photo: Faith Moore

 Index - Alphabetical Lost Arrow Direct, Yosemite Falls Wall, VI 5.8 C2+ ...................................... 290
Lost in America, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.10 A4...................................... 242
Lunar Eclipse, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.7 A4 .............................................. 256
Afroman, Washington Column, VI 5.6 A3+ ........................................................ 324
Lurking Fear, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.6 C2+ or 5.13c ........................... 74
Astroman, Washington Column, IV 5.10 C2 or 5.11c .................................... 326
Magic Mushroom, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.7 A3 ................................. 114
Atlantic Ocean, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.9 A4 .......................................... 230
Mahtah, Liberty Cap / Mt. Broderick, V 5.12c/d ................................................ 394
Aurora, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.7 A4.............................................................. 236
Mama, Wall of Ages, IV 5.12a..................................................................................... 424
Bermuda Dunes, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.10 A4+ ............................... 104
Mescalito, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.7 C3F or A2 ........................................ 204
Blood and Coin, , V 5.7 A3 ........................................................................................ 408
Mideast Crisis/HJ, Washington Column, VI 5.7 A2 or C3........................... 328
Border Country, Middle Cathedral, V 5.12 ........................................................ 420
Misanthropic Execution, Wall of Ages, V 5.8 A3 ......................................... 426
Born Under A Bad Sign, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.9 A4+................... 260
Misty Wall, Yosemite Falls Wall, VI 5.9 A3 ........................................................... 282
Bulging Puke, Arches Wall, V 5.8 A3 .................................................................... 298
Mr. Midwest, El Cap West Face, 5.9 A3 or 5.13.................................................. 70
Continental Drift, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.10 A4 .................................. 224
NA Wall, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.8 A3 or C4............................................... 218
Cosmos, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.7 A4 ............................................................98
Native Son, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.9 A4+ ................................................ 232
Crosstown Traffic, Washington Column, V 5.13a R ..................................... 321
Never Never Land, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.7 A3 ................................... 86
Dante's Inferno, Yosemite Falls Wall, VI 5.9 A3 .............................................. 288
New Dawn, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.7 A2+ ................................................ 196
Dihedral, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.8 A2 ..........................................................94
NIAD, El Capitan, VI ........................................................................................................ 156
Direct NW Face, Half Dome, VI 5.10 C2+ or A2+ or 5.14a ......................... 356
Nightmare On California Street, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.10 A5 220
Direct NW Face, Porcelain Wall, VI 5.7 A3 ......................................................... 376
NW Face / Blue Collar, Higher Cathedral Spire, VI 5.8 A3+ or 5.13 ..... 412
Disorderly Conduct, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.9 A4+ ........................... 188
Octopussy, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.9 A3 ..................................................... 84
Eagles Way, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.8 A3................................................... 266
Passage To Freedom, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.13d ............................. 194
East Buttress, El Cap Southeast Face, IV 5.10b ................................................ 272
Patriot Act, Liberty Cap / Mt. Broderick, VI 5.9 A3+ ....................................... 390
East Buttress, Middle Cathedral, IV 5.10c ........................................................... 416
Pegasus, Quarter Dome, V 5.7 A2 or 5.12 ............................................................ 344
El Corazon, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.13b .................................................... 112
Plastic Surgery Disaster, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.8 A5 ..................... 262
El Niño, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.13c ............................................................... 226
PO Wall, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.9 C4F or A3+ ......................................... 212
Electric Ladyland, Washington Column, VI 5.7 A4 ...................................... 322
Prow, Washington Column, V 5.6 A2 or C3 ......................................................... 316
Endangered Species, Washington Column, VI 5.8 A4 ............................. 320
Quantum Mechanic, Washington Column, V 5.13a ................................... 330
Excalibur, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.9 A3 ...................................................... 100
Re-Animator, Washington Column, VI 5.8 A3+ .............................................. 312
Father Time, Middle Cathedral, VI 5.13b ............................................................ 418
Reason Beyond Insanity, Ribbon Falls, VI 5.7 A3+ ....................................... 54
Flight of the Albatross, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.9 A4 ...................... 118
Reckless Abandon, Yosemite Falls Wall, VI 5.8 A4+.................................... 284
Free Dawn Wall, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.14d ......................................... 200
Regular NW Face, Half Dome, VI 5.9 C2 ............................................................ 350
Free Dihedral, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.14a ................................................96
Reticent, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.7 A4+ ...................................................... 198
Free Heart Route, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.13b V10 ........................... 102
Roulette, Learning Tower, VI 5.6 A4+ ................................................................... 438
Free Lurking Fear, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.13c ...................................... 76
Royal Arches, Arches Wall, III 5.7 A0 or 5.10b .................................................. 294
Free Magic Mushroom, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.14a ....................... 116
Salathé, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.9 C2 or 5.13 ........................................... 128
Free Regular NW Face, Half Dome, V 5.12 ..................................................... 352
Scarface, Liberty Cap / Mt. Broderick, V 5.9 A2 or C3 ..................................... 388
Free Salathe / Freerider, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.12d .................... 132
Sea of Dreams, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.9 A4+........................................ 216
Free Scarface, Liberty Cap / Mt. Broderick, V 5.12 ......................................... 386
Shortest Straw, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.7 A4 .......................................... 248
Free West Buttress, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.13c ................................... 82
Skull Queen, Washington Column, V 5.8 C2F .................................................. 310
Free Zodiac, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.13c/d ............................................... 252
Son of Heart, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.7 A3+ .......................................... 106
Galactic Hitchhiker, Glacier Point, IV 5.11b ..................................................... 402
Soul Garden, Mt. Watkins, VI 5.13b ....................................................................... 338
Gates of Delirium , Ribbon Falls, IV 5.12c ............................................................56
South Face, Mt. Watkins, VI 5.8 C2+F or 5.13b ................................................ 334
Genesis, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.11 A4 ......................................................... 190
South Face, Washington Column, V 5.8 C1 or 5.12c V10 ............................ 308
Girdle Traverse, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.10 A4 ....................................... 270
South Seas, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.8 A4 ................................................... 208
Gold Wall, Ribbon Falls, V 5.9 C2 or 5.13a R ..........................................................50
Southern Man, Washington Column, V 5.8 A1 or C2+F............................. 306
Golden Gate, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.13b ............................................... 126
Southwest Face, Liberty Cap / Mt. Broderick, V 5.8 C2 ............................... 392
Good Ole Boy, Camp 4 Wall, VI 5.8 A2+............................................................. 276
Space, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.10 A4 ............................................................. 206
Grape Race, El Capitan, VI 5.9 A2+ ........................................................................ 146
Squeeze Play/ Lost World, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.7 A3................. 78
Growing Up, Half Dome, VI 5.13a A0 ................................................................... 373
Strange World, Porcelain Wall, VI 5.8 A4 ........................................................... 380
Hall of Mirrors, Glacier Point, V 5.12c R .............................................................. 400
Sunkist, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.7 A3+ ....................................................... 108
Horse Chute, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.8 A3 .................................................88
Surgeon General, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.9 A5 ..................................... 254
Iron Hawk, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.9 A4 ..................................................... 234
Tangerine Trip, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.7 A3 .......................................... 238
Jericho, Jericho Wall, V 5.8 A2+ ............................................................................... 396
Tempest, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.8 A4+ ..................................................... 210
Jesus Built My Hotrod, Learning Tower, VI 5.7 A4 ...................................... 431
Ten Days After, Washington Column, V 5.7 A2+ .......................................... 318
Jet Stream, Half Dome, VI 5.9 A4 ............................................................................ 366
The Free Nose, El Capitan, VI 5.14a ...................................................................... 152
Jolly Roger, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.11 A5 ............................................... 110
The Muir, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.8 A2+ or C4 ....................................... 122
Kali Yuga, Half Dome, VI 5.10 A4............................................................................. 360
The Nose, El Capitan, VI 5.8 C2................................................................................. 148
KAOS, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.7 A4+ ............................................................. 244
The Platinum Wall, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.13d................................. 142
Laughing At The Void, Ribbon Falls, VI 5.7 A2+ ............................................. 52
The Prism, Mt. Watkins, VI 5.10 A3+ ..................................................................... 340
Lost Arrow Chimney, Yosemite Falls Wall, IV 5.10a .................................... 286

492
The Promised Land, Half Dome, VI 5.8 A4 ...................................................... 364
The Prophet, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.13d R.............................................. 264
The Real Nose, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.10+ A4 ...................................... 185
The Secret Passage, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.13c/d R......................... 268
The Shaft / Premuir, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.13c............................... 124
The Shield, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.6 C4 or A3 ...................................... 120
The South Face, Half Dome, VI 5.8 A3 ................................................................ 370
Tissack, Half Dome, VI 5.8 A2+ ................................................................................. 358
Tribal Rite, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.8 A3+ .................................................. 192
Triple Direct, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.9 C2 .............................................. 144
Unemployment Line, Liberty Cap / Mt. Broderick, IV 5.12a.................... 384
Virginia, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.7 A3 ........................................................... 240
Wayward Son, Lost Brother, IV 5.11 A0 or 5.12c ............................................ 407
West Buttress, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.9 A3.............................................. 80
West Face, El Cap West Face, V 5.10 C1+ or 5.11c ............................................ 72
West Face, Learning Tower, V 5.7 A2 or C3........................................................ 434
Westie Face, Learning Tower, V 5.13a A0 .......................................................... 437
Wet Denim Daydream, Learning Tower, V 5.7 A3+ .................................. 432
Wet Lycra Nightmare, Learning Tower, V 5.13d A0 ................................... 433
When Hell Was In Session, Porcelain Wall, VI 5.9 A5................................ 378
Wyoming Sheep Ranch, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.8 A4 ..................... 222
Zenith, Half Dome, VI 5.8 A4 ...................................................................................... 362
Zenyatta Mondatta, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.6 A4 ............................. 246
Zodiac, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.7 A3 or C3+ .............................................. 250
Bigwall Free Climbs (by grade)
5.10
East Buttress, El Cap Southeast Face, IV 5.10b ................................................ 272
East Buttress, Middle Cathedral, IV 5.10c ........................................................... 416
Gold Wall, Ribbon Falls, V 5.9 C2 or 5.13a R .......................................................... 50
El Corazon, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.13b.................................................... 112
Father Time, Middle Cathedral, VI 5.13b ............................................................ 418
Golden Gate, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.13b ............................................... 126
Soul Garden, Mt. Watkins, VI 5.13b ....................................................................... 338
South Face, Mt. Watkins, VI 5.8 C2+F or 5.13b ................................................ 334
Free Heart Route, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.13b V10 ........................... 102
Salathé, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.9 C2 or 5.13 ........................................... 128
El Niño, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.13c ............................................................... 226
Free Lurking Fear, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.13c ...................................... 76
Free West Buttress, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.13c ................................... 82
Lurking Fear, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.6 C2+ or 5.13c ........................... 74
The Shaft / Premuir, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.13c .............................. 124
Free Zodiac, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.13c/d ............................................... 252
The Secret Passage, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.13c/d R ........................ 268
Passage To Freedom, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.13d ............................. 194
The Platinum Wall, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.13d................................. 142
Wet Lycra Nightmare, Learning Tower, V 5.13d A0 ................................... 433
The Prophet, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.13d R ............................................. 264
5.14
Direct NW Face, Half Dome, VI 5.10 C2+ or A2+ or 5.14a ......................... 356
Free Dihedral, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.14a ................................................ 96
Free Magic Mushroom, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.14a....................... 116
The Free Nose, El Capitan, VI 5.14a ...................................................................... 152
Free Dawn Wall, El Cap Southeast Face, VI 5.14d ......................................... 200

5.11
Galactic Hitchhiker, Glacier Point, IV 5.11b ..................................................... 402
Astroman, Washington Column, IV 5.10 C2 or 5.11c .................................... 326
West Face, El Cap West Face, V 5.10 C1+ or 5.11c ............................................ 72

5.12
Border Country, Middle Cathedral, V 5.12 ........................................................ 420
Free Regular NW Face, Half Dome, V 5.12 ..................................................... 352
Free Scarface, Liberty Cap / Mt. Broderick, V 5.12 ......................................... 386
Pegasus, Quarter Dome, V 5.7 A2 or 5.12 ............................................................ 344
Mama, Wall of Ages, IV 5.12a ..................................................................................... 424
Unemployment Line, Liberty Cap / Mt. Broderick, IV 5.12a.................... 384
Gates of Delirium , Ribbon Falls, IV 5.12c ............................................................56
Wayward Son, Lost Brother, IV 5.11 A0 or 5.12c ............................................ 407
Hall of Mirrors, Glacier Point, V 5.12c R .............................................................. 400
South Face, Washington Column, V 5.8 C1 or 5.12c V10 ............................ 308
Mahtah, Liberty Cap / Mt. Broderick, V 5.12c/d ................................................ 394
Freerider, El Cap SouthWest Face, VI 5.12d ....................................................... 132

5.13
Mr. Midwest, El Cap West Face, 5.9 A3 or 5.13 ..................................................70
NW Face / Blue Collar, Higher Cathedral Spire, VI 5.8 A3+ or 5.13 ..... 412
Quantum Mechanic, Washington Column, V 5.13a ................................... 330
Growing Up, Half Dome, VI 5.13a A0 ................................................................... 373
Westie Face, Learning Tower, V 5.13a A0 .......................................................... 437
Crosstown Traffic, Washington Column, V 5.13a R ..................................... 321 Yeah bigwalling is scary - if you don’t like it, just get in line.
(Half Dome Cables Route before the permit system.) Photo: Adam Long

493
Erik Sloan is an Alaskan native who has worked in and
around Yosemite since the early 2000s. He first bigwall
climbed in Yosemite at age 20, and was totally hooked.
By age 40 he had climbed El Capitan over 100 times, and
had replaced, with partners, thousands of bolts on
Yosemite Bigwalls (In 1997 Erik, with Chris McNamara,
founded the American Safe Climbing Association with
the goal of replacing all the aging bolts in Yosemite).

Erik is the author and publisher of Rock Climbing

Yosemite Valley: 750 Best Free Routes, Yosemite Bigwalls:
The Complete Guide, as well as a website for Wawona
climbing: https://wawona.yosemitebigwall.com.

Erik and his son Austin

Erik lives in Mariposa, Ca, and still tends bar at the

Yosemite Valley Lodge. His favorite routes are The Nose,
Royal Arches, and Swan Slab Gully. Contact Erik at
erik@yosemitebigwall.com
Check out Erik’s other books!
Photo: RJ Franklin
Airglow over the Valley Photo: Krystal Leonard
Party Wall on Mideast Crisis,
Washington Column.
Photo: Gabriel Mann
Jacopo Larcher and Babsi Zangeri on Magic Mushroom,
5.14a, El Capitan. Photo: Francois Lebeau
“An epic guidebook to the most
epic climbing area on earth.”
- Jimmy Chin