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Longshore transport
Oblique incident wave →
Longshore current
Sand transport in alongshore
direction
(irreversible)
shore
4
Longshore Sediment Transport
𝛼 > 0°
shore
5
Some terminologies
Tidal flow → Flood
current, Ebb current
About wave data and design…
Wave Data Sample,
extracted from global reanalysis data
(https://cds.climate.copernicus.eu/cdsapp#!/dataset/reanalysis-era5-single-levels?tab=overview )
0
1 10 100
Kala Ulang
Coastal Sediment Transport
Sources of beach sand
• Submarine deposits of sediment
• Discharge from rivers
• Collapsed cliffs
• Littoral transport from adjacent beaches
• Biological production
Typical shapes of sandy coast
• Long beach along a coastal plain
• Pocket beach between headlands
• Sand spit
• Barrier beach, barrier island
• Beach ridges
Beach ridges
Some formations
Sediment flow → catchment
to coast
River mouth types
Sediment
plume
Natural Process of Shoreline Change
• Tectonic movements
• Fall/rise of sea level
• Supply sediment from the rivers
• Supply sediment by the collapse of neighboring cliff
• Erosive action of waves and currents
σ𝑁 2
𝑖=1 𝐻𝑖 𝑇𝑖 σ𝑁
𝑖=1 𝑇𝑖 σ𝑁
𝑖=1 𝜃𝑖 𝐻 2
𝑖 𝑇𝑖
𝐻𝑟𝑒𝑝 = 𝑇𝑟𝑒𝑝 = 𝜃𝑟𝑒𝑝 = 𝑁
σ𝑁𝑖=1 𝑇𝑖 𝑁 σ𝑖=1 𝐻𝑖2 𝑇𝑖
H = wave height
T = wave period
𝜃= wave direction
N = number of data in the group
Doc: Prof. Nur Yuwono
Contoh hitungan
Contoh hitungan
H0 T Kejadian H0 T Kejadian
(m) (s) p (%) (m) (s) p (%)
0.50 4.00 4.36 0.50 4.00 5.62
1.00 4.90 0.64 1.00 4.90 1.02
1.50 5.60 0.09 1.50 5.60 0.23
2.00 6.20 0.00 2.00 6.20 0.03
2.50 6.70 0.00 UTARA 2.50 6.70 0.00
5.09 6.90
TIMUR LAUT
45o
a. Tinggi gelombang H = 0,50 m
𝐻0 = 0,5 m, 𝑇 = 4,0 s, 𝑝 = 4,36 %, 𝑚 = 1: 100, arah gelompang
TIMUR pada perairan = 45°
H0 T Kejadian 𝐿0 = 1,56 × 𝑇 2 = 1,56 × 42 = 25,0 m
(m) (s) p (%) 𝐶0 = 1,56 × 𝑇 = 1,56 × 4 = 6,24 m/s
0.50 4.00 8.98
1.00 4.90 2.46
1.50 5.60 1.11
2.00 6.20 0.38
2.50 6.70 0.17
13.10
saat gelombang pecah
𝐻𝑏
= 1.28
𝐻𝑜′
→ 𝐻𝑏 = 0,512 m
𝐻𝑏 0,512
= = 0,0033
𝑔 𝑇 2 9,8 × 42
saat gelombang pecah
→ 𝐻𝑏 = 0,512 m m
𝐻𝑏 0,512
= 9,8×42 = 0,0033 →Grafik
𝑔 𝑇2
𝑑
→ 𝐻𝑏 = 1,2
𝑏
𝑑𝑏 0,614
= = 0,0245
𝐿𝑜 25,0
Find 𝐿𝑏 𝑔𝑇 2 2𝜋𝑑
𝐿= tanh
2𝜋 𝐿
Saat gelombang pecah
Find 𝐿𝑏 𝑔𝑇 2 2𝜋𝑑
𝐿= tanh
2𝜋 𝐿
https://youtu.be/-X-iRACizEI
Saat gelombang pecah
𝐶2 𝐿
→𝐿𝑏 = 9,56 m sin 𝛼2 = sin 𝛼1 𝐶= T sama di mana-mana
𝐶1 𝑇
cos 𝛼0
𝐾𝑟 =
cos 𝛼1
Hukum Snell:
Or:
𝐿𝑏 9,56
sin 𝛼𝑏 = sin 𝛼0 = 25,0 sin 45° = 0,27 →𝛼𝑏 = 15,7° Use iterative process in Ms.
𝐿𝑜
Excell
cos 45° 0,5
Kontrol →𝐾𝑟𝑏𝑟 = = 0,857 ≠ 0,80
cos 15.7°
(0,80+0,857)
𝐾𝑟𝑏𝑟 = = 0,829
2
Total angkutan sedimen
𝑆 = 𝑝. 𝐴. 𝐻𝑜2 . 𝐶𝑜. 𝐾𝑅𝑏𝑟 2 . 𝑠𝑖𝑛( 𝛼𝑏𝑟 ) 𝑐𝑜𝑠( 𝛼𝑏𝑟 )
𝑆 = 0,0436 × 0,79 106 × 0,52 × 6,24 × 0,8292 sin 15.7° cos 15.7°
𝑆 = 9,62 × 103 m3/th H0 T Kejadian H0 T Kejadian
(m) (s) p (%) (m) (s) p (%)
0.50 4.00 4.36 0.50 4.00 5.62
1.00 4.90 0.64 1.00 4.90 1.02
1.50 5.60 0.09 1.50 5.60 0.23
→ Hitungan dilakukan ulang untuk H0 2.00 6.20 0.00 2.00 6.20 0.03
2.50 6.70 0.00 UTARA 2.50 6.70 0.00
= 1, 1.5, 2, dan 2.5 m 5.09 6.90
TIMUR LAUT
→ Hitungan dilakukan ulang untuk
arah yang lain
TIMUR
H0 T Kejadian
(m) (s) p (%)
0.50 4.00 8.98
1.00 4.90 2.46
1.50 5.60 1.11
2.00 6.20 0.38
2.50 6.70 0.17
13.10
Contoh rangkuman
Wave height bins
(take the middle value)
Depends on
how you
divide the
wave
directions
sum
sum
net
Contoh wave rose table
6,5 km
QUIZ
• Take a look at your study case and sketch your location together with
your wave condition.
➢ Draw your wave dominant condition (put your wave rose)
➢ Create a sketch on how the sediment might moves
➢ Take one sample value of wave height, period, and its direction, then
calculate the sediment transport!
Individual task, due today at 5 pm
Flashback
Contoh Soal Refraksi
𝑔𝑇 2 2𝜋𝑑
𝐿1 = tanh cos 𝛼0
Suatu gelombang, dengan periode 8.5 2𝜋 𝐿1 𝐾𝑟 =
detik (𝑇 = 8.5𝑠) dan tinggi gelombang di cos 𝛼1
9.81 × 8.52 2𝜋5.6
laut dalam adalah 5 m (𝐻0 = 5𝑚) 𝐿1 = tanh
menuju pantai dengan sudut datang 45o 2𝜋 𝐿1
dari garis pantai. cos 45
𝐿1 = 59.7 m 𝐾𝑟 = = 0.87
Dasar laut tersebut memiliki kontur cos 21.96
sejajar. Tentukan tinggi dan sudut datang
gelombang pada kedalaman 5.6 m. 𝐿 59.7
𝐶1 = = = 7.02 m/s
𝑇 8.5
𝐻1 = 𝐾𝑠 𝐾𝑟 𝐻0
7.02
𝐶1 sin 𝛼1 = sin 45𝑜 = 0.3740
sin 𝛼1 = sin 𝛼0 13.27
𝐶0
𝑔𝑇 𝛼1 = 21.96𝑜
𝐶0 = = 13.27m/s
𝑇 = 8.5s 2𝜋
𝐻0 = 5m 𝑔𝑇 2
𝐿0 = = 112.8 m
2𝜋
Gelombang Pecah
Proses gelombang pecah
Jika gelombang menjalar ke tempat yg dangkal, pada suatu lokasi tertentu
gelombang tersebut akan pecah.
Faktor:
1. Kemiringan dasar pantai (slope)
2. Kecuraman gelombang (wave steepness)
Waves becomes Wave breaks
higher and steeper
Shalow water
Deep water
Wave “feels” the bottom
Rumus Tinggi Gelombang Pecah
𝐻𝑏 1 𝐻𝑏 = tinggi gelombang pecah
′ = 1 𝐻0′ = gelombang laut dalam ekivalen
𝐻0 ′ 3
𝐻0
3.3
𝐿0
𝑑𝑏 1 𝑎 = 43.75(1 − 𝑒 −19𝑚 )
=
𝐻𝑏 𝑏 − 𝑎𝐻𝑏 1.56
𝑔𝑇 2 𝑏=
1 + 𝑒 −19.5𝑚
𝑚 = kemiringan pantai
Penentuan tinggi
gelombang pecah
Penentuan
kedalaman
gelombang pecah
Tipe Gelombang Pecah
• Gelombang dg kemiringan kecil
menuju pantai yg datar
• Gelombang mulai pecah pada jarak yg
cukup jauh dr pantai