S Sold to Marlous van Lit using Selz (#HFWA4DMV)

Phaedra© Chain Maille Captured Rivoli Unit Tutorial

Created by: Karen Snyder of O. Sebastian Chainmaille Creations

This tutorial is copyrighted material and all rights and design ownership remain with the author. Only
the person who has purchased this tutorial may produce and sell pieces made using this design tutorial.
This tutorial may not be loaned, taught or reproduced, in part or in full, in any manner (electronic,
photocopying, print, video / audio recording or otherwise) without prior written authorization of the
author. Purchasing this tutorial entitles the purchaser to produce physical items for personal use, as gifts
or for sale in small quantities under the name Phaedra© and credit must be given to the designer. The
tutorial remains the intellectual property of Karen Snyder of O. Sebastian Chainmaille Creations, all
rights reserved. Mass production of the finished product is prohibited.

***PLEASE NOTE*** All testing and finished Phaedra© units were created using cut rings from C&T
Designs, 4756 N. Chestnut Street, Colorado Springs, CO 80907. You can find them on the web at:
www.candtdesigns.com . Cut rings vary from manufacturer to manufacture, regardless of the ID
(internal diameter) quoted by said manufacturers. C&T’s product has proven the most reliable and
consistent and that consistency is critical to the success of producing the Phaedra© unit. The rings sizes
and specs given in this tutorial reflect only C&T rings and successful reproduction is not guaranteed if
rings from other manufacturers are used. C&T Designs is the only authorized manufacturer of Phaedra©
ring packs.

Phaedra© Tutorial, Copyright 2015 by Karen Snyder, All Rights Reserved Page 1
Phaedra© Materials List: You will need two pairs of pliers with smooth jaws (no teeth or serrations) and
a basic working knowledge of opening and closing jump rings.

8mm rivoli - (1) 19g SWG 9/32”, (20) 19g SWG 3/16, (4) 19g SWG ¼”, (1) 8mm Swarovski rivoli
OR
(1) 18g AWG 9/32”, (20) 18g AWG 3/16”, (4) 18g AWG ¼”, (1) 8mm Swarovski rivoli

10.5mm rivoli - (5) 18g SWG 5/16”, (20) 18g SWG 15/64”, (1) 10.5mm Swarovski rivoli
OR
(5) 16g AWG 21/64”, (20) 16g AWG 17/64”, (1) 10.5mm Swarovski rivoli

12mm rivoli - (6) 18g SWG 5/16”, (25) 18g SWG ¼”, (1) 12mm Swarovski rivoli
OR
(1) 16g AWG 3/8” (base ring), (25) AWG ¼”, (5) AWG 5/16, (1) 12mm Swarovski rivoli

Let’s begin! The example shown is constructed in all niobium SWG using a 10.5mm Swarovski rivoli.

Step 1: Assemble your materials. In the picture below, you will see that I have separated the materials
out into sections. The base ring and cinch rings are the same size (in this example, 18g SWG 5/16”) and
the surrounds and connectors are the same size (in this example, 18g SWG 15/64”. I have used different
colors for each section to make the construction process easier to follow.

Phaedra© Tutorial, Copyright 2015 by Karen Snyder, All Rights Reserved Page 2
Step 2: Close eight (8) of the smaller rings from the surrounds section and open all of the rest.

Step 3: Using all of the rings from the surrounds section, weave four (4) pieces of 2-in-2 chain.

Phaedra© Tutorial, Copyright 2015 by Karen Snyder, All Rights Reserved Page 3
Step 4: Thread one pair of rings from each section of 2-in-2 chain onto the base ring.

Step 5: Close the base ring. You should have something that looks like this:

Phaedra© Tutorial, Copyright 2015 by Karen Snyder, All Rights Reserved Page 4
Step 6: Take the first piece of 2-in-2 chain and flip the top pair down, one ring on either side of the pair
connected to the base ring, just as you would when making Byzantine.

Step 7: Thread a connector ring through the pair of flipped-down rings.

Phaedra© Tutorial, Copyright 2015 by Karen Snyder, All Rights Reserved Page 5
Step 8: Flip down the top rings of the adjoining section of 2-in-2 chain and thread the connector ring
from Step 6 through them, thus “connecting” the two sections. Close the ring and you should have
something that looks like this:

Phaedra© Tutorial, Copyright 2015 by Karen Snyder, All Rights Reserved Page 6
Step 9: Repeat the process from steps 6 and 7 until you have used three connector rings. Do not add the
fourth connector ring yet.

Step 10: Insert the rivoli into the piece by sliding it between the pairs of flipped rings. It will want to slide
around but it should sit in there without any tension from the surround rings.

Phaedra© Tutorial, Copyright 2015 by Karen Snyder, All Rights Reserved Page 7
Step 11: Add the fourth connector ring exactly as you did before. The rivoli will likely pop out a couple of
times. This is normal, so don’t get frustrated. (After chasing dozens of rivolis around my work room, I
have concluded that rivolis are so slippery that they must contain butter!) Hold your off-hand thumb
over the rivoli as you thread the connector ring through the surround rings with your dominant hand,
then set the piece down on your work surface to close the ring. I have found that this cuts down on the
amount of time I spend searching for rivolis that went flying out of my hands.

Once you have closed the fourth connector ring, the rivoli will be loosely captured but can still pop out
of the setting. The rivoli is held in place by the “surround” rings that are held together with the
“connector” rings. At this point, the base ring is completely covered by the rivoli. It should look
something like this:

Phaedra© Tutorial, Copyright 2015 by Karen Snyder, All Rights Reserved Page 8
Step 12: The cinch rings will lie over the connector rings added in the previous steps and will thread
through the surround ring pairs that are attached to the base ring.

Step 13: Hold the unit on its side (edge up) with your off-hand thumb holding the rivoli securely in place.
Thread the cinch ring (in this example, 18g SWG 5/16”) up through one half of a pair of surround rings
attached to the base ring then down through the closest half of the adjoining pair of surround rings. As
you can see in the pictures, the cinch ring lays over the connector ring. Lay the unit down on your work
surface and close the cinch ring, keeping the ring angled toward the center. Do not forcefully pull the
two ends of the ring together as this will cause the rings on the bottom of the unit to overlap and pull
the entire structure out of alignment. Once it is closed, your unit should look like the picture below on
the right.

Phaedra© Tutorial, Copyright 2015 by Karen Snyder, All Rights Reserved Page 9
Step 14: Repeat step 12 with the remaining cinch rings, working around the rivoli until you have all four
cinch rings in place. Congratulations! You have just completed your first Phaedra©!

***PLEASE NOTE*** If you have difficulty seating and closing all four cinch rings, check the bottom of
your Phaedra© and compare it to the photo below. If the rings are overlapping, you will need to take
the piece apart to the point where you can remove the rivoli, then put it back in place and continue
forward again. Overlapping rings are caused by pulling too forcefully on the cinch rings when closing
them and / or not keeping them angled toward the rivoli while closing them.

Phaedra© Tutorial, Copyright 2015 by Karen Snyder, All Rights Reserved Page 10
8mm Phaedra© Notes: The 8mm Phaedra© is completed the same way as previously shown but there
are a few things worth noting.

1. The 8mm version works up a bit more loosely in the beginning steps. It is recommended that
you weave all four connector rings and then insert the rivoli. If you are using all stainless steel or
bronze, this will not work. You will need to insert the rivoli before adding the fourth connector
ring.
2. The 8mm version has a higher tendency for the rivoli to pop out so handle it carefully until you
have woven in and closed the first two cinch rings.
3. The completed 8mm version can be tightened significantly by using a stainless steel or bronze
AWG 9/32” ring as your base ring. If you choose this option, you will need to insert the rivoli
before weaving and closing the fourth connector ring.

Phaedra© 8mm earrings in light rose and Argentium silver

Phaedra© 8mm earrings in crystal AB, rainbow niobium & Argentium silver

Phaedra© Tutorial, Copyright 2015 by Karen Snyder, All Rights Reserved Page 11
12mm Phaedra Notes: The 12mm Phaedra© is completed the same way as previously shown with a few
small differences.

1. The 12mm version uses five (5) sections of 2 in 2 chain in the surrounds instead of four (4).
Construction method and steps are still completed in the same order.
2. The 12mm version is larger and heavier than the 10.5mm version but the balance of the
overall piece remains the same.
3. Since there are five sections in the surrounds, the look of the face of the piece is still
symmetrical but differs from the smaller units due to the odd number of cinch rings framing
the rivoli. Please remember this when attaching the unit to a bail or other findings.
4. The rings on the bottom of the 12mm Phaedra© will overlap slightly. This is simply a
product of the number of rings and size of the base ring and is normal – it does not affect
the finished product or structure as it does in the 10.5 and 8mm versions.

12mm Phaedra© pendant in Peacock Eye (special coating) and five colors of niobium

***SPECIAL NOTE***
I have tumbled every Phaedra© that I have made. I’ve used stainless steel shot, burnishing compound, a
drop of dish washing liquid and water. The bottom of the Phaedra© unit protects the foil backs of the
rivolis so well that I have yet to find one damaged after tumbling. Having said that, these only need to
tumble for 1 - 2 hours, which gives them a nice polish and cleaning and smooths out any light tool marks
and / or burrs. Do not tumble any Phaedra© with any treatment or coating on the top surface as this
will most certainly be damaged by the tumbling process.

Phaedra© Tutorial, Copyright 2015 by Karen Snyder, All Rights Reserved Page 12