TRADITIONAL TEXTILES OF INDIA

PASHMINA, KASHMIR:

• Refers to type of 'firie-cashmere wool

• Wool _comes from Pashmina goat - inner wool
• Pashrnina goat, a specicil·b·reed of goat of the Himalayas. in Nepal, Pakistan and
India . .
• Pashmin-a shawls are hand spun, woven and embroidere.d in ·Kashmir
• Uses':-scarfs, wrap~ and stoles
· • · Soft,·light weight. They are -known ·for softness and warmth .

. BAND.HIN/, RAJ.ASTHAN:
. .
• They are oo.t~urfi..il
··•·.. .
sari_s.arid odhni dyed by tie and dye process
. . . · Colour:S:
' .
yeJlow,
. :
red, blue~. green and . black
.

• . Deslgns: dots; squares, .waves a·nct·s~lpes ..

• . .-P~pular i~t Guj:arat, Kathiawar, Rajas-than- and Sihd .
· ·• ~otifs: animals-, birds; flowers and dancing. dolts ·
· • A1so;known as Choonaris

I. DACCA MUSLIN, BENGAL-:·

' .

• -Finest muslin produced by hand or inachin.e

• ~fso known as Abi,---Rawan (flowing water), Ba.ft H~wa (w,ov_e1l:,a.ir) and ..
.Shabnam·{ev~ning,.c;le-w.) _. .. . .-
· •· Sa~i ·colou~: grey_wJjJ!e~ black with ·t>lu~ or black .~eSi~r1s. O.c~~;io,nally they are
w.oveM wittrbright -~oloured cotton. Or silver or,gold'th~e.ads .:·.. . .
• With .wo·v~n pattern is "Jam'daa11i.patterns 11 _ . _. . _- ,-'.,· : _: ,_:_· ,, ' _ ·.. .
. . . . . ; :t •

• An_chal or p~llus ar~ richly decorated arid sarUs buttas

..: :·~' ' · Motifs: jasmine .flowers and- are WOV8fl ar~unil~aves· . .··: . .
•· . Bird.s, ani~a'I~ and hum.an. beings . .. . . . . ·.. ....
, ; ,· . ,
-

• · Designs ~re_ ~ccepte·d - of Persian origin and depic\ incident~ _from Hindu
mythology
. PATOl:A, GUJARAT:

• Characterised _by w~-a.~ing 6.fsepa,rately dyed warp arid ·weft ya'rns -·

• Word Patola come;;frbm·Sanskrit yvord Pattal .
• Motifs-: walnu( dandrig g,r.1/ p~rt.ot; elephant, leaves, flowers arid geometrical .
patterns. (lmporta:n't desi~n~R.afran·Chowk) ·· ·. ·
• Manufactured in Patna, Ahmed~b<:')d, Surat, Cambay
. - - d
• Colours: vivid and pleasantly harmonise
 CHANDER/, MADHYA PRADESH:

• Chanderi refers to shimmering cotton fabric

• Famous for Light weight, sheer luxury and glossy transparency
• Practiced in Chanderi in Madhya Pradesh
• Motifs : swans, gold coins, trees, fruits, flowers and heavenly bodies
e Chanderi clothes are available in silk, cotton and cotfon silk blend

POCHA'IVIPALLI, ANDHRA -PRADESH:

• S'ecti.o ns of warp and weftyarns are tied first to achieve prefixed design
knowr} as. lkpt d:esig~ _
•· Sing,le·'fkats-wat;p:,yanrrsi-s,He-dyed- and'inte:rweaved.with weft yarns
• Double t kats -b:ot h warp:,and ·w;e;ft are,:ti·e :- dyed and -positioRed in such a way
that-b:oth weft and war.p,reinfor~e-,eacfu:._oth'EH;- at the resist dyed pfac~ to
achteve·a ·Saree d esig:n -""""·CaUeci·as: Tie-and '. dye w.e ave
•· -Pochafop-a-lH handloomS:are'-.ma-c:te•-in-.;.coUan:, .sHk and cotton silk mix

MOLAKALMOORU( KARNATAKA:

·• :'Molakalmoor'u is .a town in Chitracfurga district~ Karnataka

• Sarees woven iri hand1oom ·
- ------ -· -~-- -
• Mntifs: fruit.s,
.
. .
·animals
. .
and
.
birds~ ·tr~ral designs with t.icli palloos
.

•. Small or:narrow b:ordersai:eesare woven .with peacock,. man·g o and chakra

border d·esigns
• Check designs and a contrast _border
• Butta sarees are wo.ven in d:obby looms

KANJIVARAM; -TAtl/llL NA/JU:

• It is wovel'r li:r-~ hdenttown of Kanjivaram, Tamil Nadu

• Woven in silk
·• Characte rized by gol.d di_pped silver
• Des-1. gns: vertical
. · .
and horizon t a I 1·n·es·
1 as well as checks
· · t ·. rple green, maroon, blue_and rust
• Colour: vibrant orange to mauve o pu , ·
• Motifs: peacock, parrots, mangoes a nd leaves
-----~
'l

KASAVU, KERALA:

• Finest traditional sarees

• Also known as "Mundum Neryathum"
. _._ _ Qff - white with gold border
• Two-piece cloth - "Settu Mundu"
• Hand woven and 108% unbleached cotton.
• Known for finest of count ih weaving
TRADITION·A L EMBROIDERIES OF INDIA

KASH/DA KASHMIR/EMBROIDERY:

• Kashmir embroidery- Kashida

• Motifs: mostly nature (animal-and human motifs are not seen)
• B·Irds: parrots, cannary; magpte, wood pecker and king fisher
•· Fl9wets: Iris, lotus;LiHy,tulip and saffron, grapes, plums, apples,almorids c;md
cherries
• Fabrics used: silk, wooland cotton
·• Colo Li-rs: whtte, gr-een, pl;ffple, bl·ue, yeltow, black, crimson and scarlet
• Stitches.used: satin, ron~ :~nd short stitch, he~ring.bone and darning stitch

PHUtKARI;.P.UNJA8:
. .

• ·Phul-: flo-w~r; Kad-work ·

• Motifs: flor:t1:I :and geometric patterns ·
• Stit~h/ ~atin·and chai~ stitch,: compact and close stitches, herring bon·e stitch
I
I
• ·R~ugh materiaJ on Whitfr·embroid:ery is doire is Kh~dder with silk thread
• · Col:odts':white, red, .yellowi green ·.. . .
. . ··coJ6ur ofKhadder _materi~I - red, maroon, brown

CHAMBARDOMA:LS:
• · Roomals of Chamba, a state in the Himalayan range .
• Roomal:- square. pjece ofcotton material
/ • Motifs: figures, flowers, leaves
• Material: very fine and of delicate texture
• . Stitch: double
. satin
. stitch
. . h.t nd a wrong s1.d e
• Chamba
· roomal does not have
. af rig. aamythological
· story or a 1egen d
• Central representation - scene rom ·
 .- '
r

KUTCH, GUJARAT:

• The art was taught to the Mochis (shoe makers) who came from Sindh
• Embroidery is pictorial and originaC the mirror work and interlacing stitches
are used
• Embroideries of Kutch, Sindh and Kathiawar are very similar and identical
• Motifs: flo'ral, peacocks, animals, birds, trees, Persian influence can be seen
• Fabrics: cotton and silk
• Colours: white, indigo, blue, crimson, red, green and yellpw
• Stitches: chain, herringbone, interlqdng, darning and bu"tton hole stitch

CHIKANKAFU EMBROIDERY, lJTTAR PRADESH:

• · Lucknow - cradie of Chtkankari embroidery

• M'Otifs: grains Uke rice, millets, flowers, leaves
• Fa~rics: f0uslins and ·cotton
• Stitches: back stitch, herri11g b.one, runntng' stitch
• Characteristics: dainUne5s., delicacy and rrchness

KASU:TI
_. . .. f
;K'r:R. ,ll'I JI.,.. AiO.:-A •
H . -fY.~ JRn:11• # .

• . M·otifs: gopurams of temples; chariot, pa4anquin, lotus and tLilsikatte ·

•· Elephants with howdahs, peacock, biros, animals and flowers
• • • • • • • • ' j

Mater-iaJ: han;d woven cloth of dark colour usually black cotton or silk,red
. - ~ - ,_l _ . - --- ~ -~ - •- --- = _.: -- • ~ - - -'-:,~ . = . _ - ___ _,:__-;;~~-~ ·- _.-:=,--:--__,,.._~ ·-~--=~

purpler green; orang;e and crimson

. , · Slltches.:.baok'stltch, runnl ng:-slitch- horizontal, v~rticaland diagonal
• . ·KasJ:Jti' wor.kers use 'no _.tracf11g or motifs to set the pattern

· · .,,P.URt··e····1,.,-,,U.,.:u:o·w
'''"N ,.-an'r.'1£1uT.'E ,,,_·v1:.·•
. ·p.~
M M · ·.-r = ·.. - •

• · DeHcate and extremely .fine .

•· Practised by both menand women
=· Motifs:·butterfly, elephants .
• "Akyobi" d'esign - worke.d in two shades of red with a.bit of black and white
• Circular d,esigns -- one circle joini.h'g the ot~er, with each circle being further

broken up .into pattern