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DIFFERENT SHARP-

EDGED CUTTING TOOLS.


GROUP 2
MEMBERS:

Kerr Reburiano Jamaica Canayon Jairuz Del Castillo Hanzly Aurellano

Kate Dela Cruz Janella Penilla Francine Oliquiano


List Of Content
CHISEL Work Bench
a. Service
b. Length
c. Blade Edges
d. Handle Attachment
e. Blade Faces
CHISEL
Is an indispensable tool in carpentry which is also
considered as the most mishandled tool
oftenly used for prying, can opener, open cases, or
as screwdriver, etc. It is used for
cutting or carving hard materials such as metal,
stone or wood. A chisel tool has a shaped
cutting edge of a blade on its end, with a handle
that is characteristically made of wood or
metal.
Chisel (Maintenance and
Handling)

1. Check if your chisel is sharp enough. Checking the sharpness of your


chisel is a essential for achieving clean and precise cuts.
2. Inspect chisels regularly. Discard any tool that is bent or shows dents,
cracks, chips, mushrooming or excessive wear.
3. Check the Handle for Damage. All wood chisels have a handle. Most of
them have a wooden handle, which you can strike with a hammer or mallet.
Striking the hammer, though, may damage it. The handle may break or
splinter, in which case you'll need to replace the wood chisel.
4. Always inspect the butt end of metal-handle chisels BEFORE use.
5. Use the correct chisel for the work you want to do.
Chisel (Maintenance and
Handling)
6. Use only hammers that are designed for use with chisels. Preferably, A
wooden mallet will not deform the striking end of a metal tool, as most
metal hammers would. It is also used to reduce the force driving the cutting
edge of a chisel, giving better control.
7. Check the stock (wood) thoroughly for knots, staples, nails, screws or
other foreign objects before chiseling.
8. Clamp the wood to ensure that it will remain fully stable when being
chiselled.
9. Wear safety glasses, or goggles, or a face shield (with safety glasses or
goggles). Safety goggles will shield your eyes from flying debris, sawdust or
wood chips.
10. Use your hand to force the chisel into the wood. With your dominant
hand on the handle and the other wrapped around or pressing the blade,
push the chisel with a slicing motion into the wood. Sometimes you might
find it useful to use the heel of your dominant hand to apply small blows
when the full force of a hammer isn’t needed.
Chisel (Maintenance and
Handling)

11. Move the Chisel Forward and Away. Always cut away from your body and
hands, and never towards them. This will reduce the risk of accidentally
cutting yourself, and it help you maintain better control of the wood chisel
while you work.
12. When keeping the chisels on the work bench, always place them with the
bevel side up. It's usually best to work with the bevel up because the back,
or face, is self-referencing.
13. Place chisels safely within the plastic protective caps to cover cutting
edges when not in use.
14. Store chisels in a "storage roll," a cloth or plastic bag with slots for each
chisel, and keep them in a drawer or tray.
a. Service
a1. PARING CHISEL- - has a thin blade, with
the cutting edge formed by a bevel ground at an
angle of 15o. It is used For light, fine work and
should be used without the aid of a mallet or
other heavy driving tool.
a2. FIRMING CHISEL--- has a heavier blade than a
paring chisel,and its angle is 20o. This chisel is used
forboth heavy and light work; and a mallet may be
used to drive it.
a. Service
a3. FRAMING CHISEL--- has a thicker blade than
the firmer chisel. Its bevel is ground at an angle of
25o, and it is used for rough carpentry work and
meant for the heaviest woodworking (cut notches,
gouge wood, and carve mortises and tenons), so
they’re built extra-durable with reinforced handles
that can take repeated heavy blows without
mushrooming or splitting.
Paring chisel (Maintenance and
Handling)
1. Select the Right Chisel: Ensure you have the appropriate paring chisel for
your task. Paring chisels come in various widths and sizes. Choose one that
suits the size of the area you are working in.
2. Sharpen the Chisel: Before you start, make sure your paring chisel is
sharp. A sharp chisel is essential for clean and controlled cuts. You can use
sharpening stones, honing guides, or a sharpening system to maintain a
keen edge.
3. Securing Your Workpiece: The workpiece needs to be tightly secured. To
keep it from moving while you work, use clamps or a vice. Accuracy and
safety are ensured by this stability.
4. Body Position: Stand or sit in a comfortable and stable position. Your
body should be well-balanced, and your dominant hand should have full
control over the chisel. Keep your non-dominant hand away from the
chisel's path.
5. Hand Placement: Hold the paring chisel with your dominant hand near the
blade's end, applying downward pressure. Your thumb should be on top of
the chisel's blade, and your other fingers should be underneath, providing
support.
Paring chisel (Maintenance and
Handling)

6. Angle of Attack: The angle at which you hold the chisel is crucial. For
paring, you typically want to hold the chisel at a shallow angle, usually
around 15 to 20 degrees. This allows for precise cutting without the chisel
digging too deep into the wood.
7. Cutting Technique: Paring is a controlled slicing motion. Start by
positioning the chisel at the edge of the area you want to remove material
from. Apply gentle downward pressure and push the chisel forward while
keeping the blade in contact with the wood. The motion should be smooth
and controlled. Avoid using excessive force.
8. Direction of Cut: When paring along the grain of the wood, follow the
grain direction for smoother results. When paring across the grain, be even
more cautious and take thinner shavings to avoid tear-out.
9. Accuracy: Take your time and work slowly. Check your progress
frequently to ensure you're removing material precisely as needed. Paring
chisels are for finesse, not heavy removal.
10. Safety: Always wear safety goggles or glasses to protect your eyes from
flying wood particles. Be mindful of your fingers and hands, keeping them
well away from the chisel's path.
Paring chisel (Maintenance and
Handling)

11. Maintain Sharpness: Stop and sharpen your chisel as needed to maintain
its edge. Dull chisels are more likely to cause accidents.
12. Finish and Sand: After using the paring chisel, you may need to do some
finishing work and sanding to achieve the desired smoothness and surface
quality.
Firming chisel
(Maintenance and Handling)

1. Sharpness: Ensure that your chisel is sharp. A dull chisel can be difficult to
control and may lead to accidents. Sharpen the chisel using a sharpening stone or
honing guide if needed.
2. Mark Your Workpiece: Use a pencil or marking knife to mark the area you want
to chisel. This helps guide your work and ensures precision.
3. Secure the Workpiece: If you're working with a smaller piece of wood, you can
hold it securely with one hand. For larger pieces or if you need both hands free,
use clamps or a vice to secure the workpiece.
Firming chisel
(Maintenance and Handling)

4. Chisel Technique - Hold the chisel firmly with both hands, one hand near the
blade and the other at the end of the handle. - Position the chisel with the
beveled side down onto the marked area. - Angle the chisel slightly (about 20-30
degrees) to the wood's surface. - Use a mallet or a hammer to gently tap the chisel
to start removing material. Start with light taps and gradually increase force as
needed. - Work in small sections and make multiple light passes, rather than trying
to remove too much material at once. - Keep your hands behind the cutting edge
to avoid accidents. Always cut away from your body.
5. Control and Accuracy: Practice control to achieve the desired depth and shape
of the cut. You can make relief cuts or use a coping saw or fret saw for intricate
shapes. 6. Finishing: After removing the excess material, you may need to clean up
the chiseled area using a file, sandpaper, or a finer chisel, depending on the
project's requirements. 7. Maintenance: Keep your chisels clean and sharp.
Regularly hone and sharpen them to maintain their cutting edge.
Framing chisel
(Maintenance and Handling)

Safety Precautions: Before you begin, make sure you wear appropriate safety gear,
including safety glasses, hearing protection, and work gloves. Keep your work area
clean and well-lit. Always keep your hands and body away from the path of the
chisel's cutting edge.
1. Select the Right Chisel: Choose a framing chisel that suits your project. Framing
chisels come in various sizes, but they are typically wider and heavier than bench
chisels. The width of the chisel should match the width of the joint or cut you intend
to make.
2. Inspect the Chisel: Ensure that your framing chisel is in good condition. Check for
any nicks, chips, or dull edges. If necessary, sharpen the chisel using a sharpening
stone or a honing guide. 3. Prepare the Wood: Mark the area where you want to make
the cut or shape the wood. Use a carpenter's pencil or a marking knife for accuracy.
Framing chisel
(Maintenance and Handling)

4. Position the Chisel: Hold the chisel with both hands, one hand near the blade's tip
for guidance and the other at the end of the handle for leverage.
5. Angle the Chisel: Hold the chisel at a slight angle to the wood surface, typically
around 20-30 degrees. The bevel side of the chisel should be facing the waste wood
that you want to remove. 6. Start the Cut: Begin the cut by tapping the chisel gently
with a mallet or hammer. Use a wooden mallet to avoid damaging the chisel's handle.
Start with light taps to create a groove or kerf along the marked line.
7. Deepen the Cut: Gradually increase the force of your strikes to deepen the cut.
Always aim your strikes accurately, trying to stay within the marked lines. Take your
time and work slowly, especially if you are new to using a framing chisel.
Framing chisel
(Maintenance and Handling)

8. Remove Waste Wood: As you deepen the cut, use the chisel to remove the waste
wood by levering it out. Place the bevel side of the chisel facing the waste wood and
tap it gently. Be careful not to force the chisel too hard to avoid splitting or damaging
the wood.
9. Check Your Progress: Periodically stop and check the depth and alignment of your
cut to ensure it matches your desired shape or joint.
10. Fine-Tune the Cut: If needed, use finer chisels or other tools to refine the cut or
create more intricate shapes.
11. Finish and Clean Up: Once you've achieved the desired shape or joint, remove any
remaining wood fibers with a smaller chisel, file, or sandpaper. Sand or smooth the
area as necessary.
12. Maintain Your Chisel: After use, clean your chisel, remove any wood shavings, and
store it in a safe place to prevent damage.
b. Length
b1. Butt Chisel--- are typically less than 4 inches in
length. They usually come in lengths of 2-3.5 inches.
Their shape makes them useful for cutting into tight
corners and small edges. For this reason, they
work best on complicated furniture projects such as
cabinets and
desks.
b2. Pocket Chisel-- - a chisel with a length of 8”
and has blade width of 1” or 3⁄4” or 1⁄2” or 1⁄4”.
b. Length
b3. Mill Chisel--- a woodworking chisel
having a blade more than 8 inches long.
Butt chisel, Pocket chisel, Mill chisel
(Maintenance and Handling)
•Regular checks
Since most woodworking tools have parts made of carbon steel, they're
bound to pick up rust at some point so it is important to check them for
errors. Proper storage is the first line of defense.

•Keeping it sharp
Sharpen each chisels cutting edge with 240 grit sandpaper and follow with
400 and 800 minimally.

Step 1: Clean and flatten the bottom of the chisel.

Step 2: Observe the chisel's bevel angle.

Step 3: Begin sharpening without losing your bevel angle

Step 4: Polish and oil. Use a small piece of leather as a stop to remove the
filling and burrs. Wipe the carbon steel portion of the chisel down with oil or
wax as a finishing touch. This will slow down the occurrence of rust.
c. Blade Edges
c1. Square/Straight Edge-- - other types of wood
chisel have straight edges. Chisels with straight
edges are particularly good for paring jobs and
finishing joints with 90-degree angles because of
its rectangular cross-section. A disadvantage of
having a chisel with square edges is that you
cannot get into the corners of acute angled
joints such as a dovetail joint.
c. Blade Edges
c2. Bevel Edge-- - the edges of some wood chisel
blades are beveled. This means that the edges
have been ground down to a specific angle to
allow them access into certain carpentry
joints such as a dovetail joint. The chief
advantage of chisels with bevel edges is that
they can be worked into the corners of
dovetail joints and other joints with acute
angles.
Square/Straight Edge
(Maintenance and Handling)

1.) To sharpen chisel, Lubricate a semi-coarse sharpening stone (around


1000 grit) and set the wheel of the honing guide on it first. Then lower the
tip of the chisel onto the stone. Never start by putting the cutting edge
down first, as this can dull the blade or dig into your stone.
2.) To clean chisel, Remove the wire edge by rubbing the back of the chisel
on 220 grit sandpaper. A few strokes should do it.
3.) To set up chisel, Start with the coarse plate and rub back and forth,
pressing down on the bolster with one hand and using the other hand to
press the blade down flat.
Bevel Edge
(Maintenance and Handling)

1.) To sharpen the bevel, spray auto-glass cleaner onto your steel
sharpening plates, one pump on each plate is usually enough. This is used
instead of water as water tends to leave rust residue on the plates.
2.) Sharpen bench chisels with a 25° bevel angle for best result.
3.) All chisel should be sharpened before use. The chisel should be greased
against rest after use. Always replace the cap.
d. Handle
Attachment

d1. Tang--- is the part of the blade that is slotted


into the handle. Chisels with a tang are typically
manipulated by hand.
d2. Socket-- - is the part of the blade the handle is
slotted into. Chisels with a socket are typically
struck with a mallet.
Tang
(Maintenance and Handling)
1.) Maintain its cleanliness, it should be cleaned or at least wiped before
storing. Since the tang is a metal avoid storing it when wet to prevent the
rust to form.
2.) Always check its condition before and after sorting it out.
3.) Select handle to fit tang. If necessary to use handle having hole too small
for tang, heat same size tang of an old file and insert in handle to burn hole
to proper size.
4.) Before it goes into the handle see if the parts are all in place and not
damaged, to prevent any unnecessary incident.
5.) Considering tang is a handle attachment tool, the handle and the blade
must be attached properly.
6.) When detaching tang chisel, make sure to do it properly to avoid any
damage.
7.) Since tang chisel are manipulated with manpower DO NOT hit it with a
mallet. Extensive hitting of a tang handle chisel will cause the handle to split
and fall off the tang.
Socket
(Maintenance and Handling)

1.) Socket chisel should be arranged or attached properly.


2.) Socket chisel is hit with a mallet. DO NOT hit it lightly that it may fall off
but also DO NOT hit it too hard that cold be a reason to break. But hit it
good enough to ensure that it is tight enough that it won’t come off.
3.) Make sure to maintain its good condition so that it won’t be loosen
quickly. Any tool that rotates in contact with another object will experience
some degree of wear over time.
4.) Make sure that it is clean before putting it away, any dirt should be
brushed off because it can scratch away at the protective coating and trap
moisture which could result to corrosion.
e. Blade
Faces
e1. Flat Face-- - chisel blades with flat faces are
most often used for chopping tasks and for cleaning
up 90-degree angles and square edges.
e2. Bevel Face--- chisels with beveled faces are
frequently used to cut and pare joints that have
sharp internal angles. Note that these are slightly
different from chisels with beveled edges – the
bevels here meet in the middle, but beveled edges
(image from past slide) are not so wide, leaving a
flat section in the middle of the blade (image
from past slide).
e. Blade
Faces

e3. Oval Face-- - chisel blades with oval (or


“rounded”) faces are the least
common and are found mostly on chisels designed
for paring and
carving.
Flat Face
(Maintenance and Handling)

1. Wipe the flat face with a clean, damp cloth after each use. Avoid abrasive
materials that may scratch the surface. Dry it thoroughly to prevent any
water spots or corrosion.
2. Use a honing rod or sharpening stone designed for flat blades. Maintain a
consistent angle and use smooth, controlled strokes. Regular honing keeps
the edge aligned and sharp.
3. Look for signs of warping or bending on the flat face. If you detect any, it
is critical that you have them professionally repaired.
4. Use a soft cutting surface like wood or a soft cutting board to minimize
impact on the flat face. Avoid cutting on hard materials like glass or marble.
5. Store the blade in a knife block, magnetic strip, or blade guard. Ensure it is
dry and free from moisture to prevent corrosion.
Bevel Face
(Maintenance and Handling)

1. Use a non-abrasive cloth or sponge and a light detergent to clean the


bevel face. Pay great attention to the intersection of the bevel and the flat
side.
2. Bevel faces benefit from regular honing. Use a honing rod to maintain the
edge's alignment and sharpness.
3. Use a sharpening stone or honing guide to sharpen the bevel face when it
becomes dull. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for best results.
4. Be mindful of the angle at which you cut with the bevel face. It's designed
to work efficiently at a specific angle, so try to maintain that angle during
use.
5. Avoid twisting or prying with the bevel face. It's designed for slicing and
chopping motions.
6. To reduce stress on the bevel face, use softer cutting surfaces such as
wood or a soft cutting board.
Oval-face
(Maintenance and Handling)

1. Gently clean the oval face with a non-abrasive cloth. Pay attention to the
edges where the oval face transitions into other parts of the blade. Rinse
and dry thoroughly.
2. Oval-faced blades may require specialized techniques. It's recommended
to seek professional sharpening services or consult the manufacturer for
specific guidance.
3. Use a rocking motion when using the oval face. The curved surface is
designed to facilitate this motion for efficient chopping and mincing.
4. As with the bevel face, avoid twisting or prying with the oval face. It's
designed for slicing and rocking motions.
5. Store the blade in a knife block or blade guard to protect the oval face
and prevent contact with other object
Work Bench
is also an important tool in carpentry operation
considering the various tools attached to it.

Work bench is considered as a shop tool and is


needed for the different kinds of on-site or off-
site preparation of wood parts in all construction
projects.
Work Bench
(Maintenance and Handling)

1. Use sanding tool for smoothing surfaces and removing small


imperfections on the table top of a workbench.
2. Make sure the entire assembly is stable enough to withstand the work
that will be done on its surfaces.
3. Check that all bolts have been tightened. A bolt which isn’t tight can in
time cause fractures of the glued sections.
4. All movable parts must be greased with tallow and adjusted regularly. Use
a brush for greasing.
5. Workbench must not be handled abnormally or stored in damp
surroundings.
6. Keep the workbench where the relative humidity, can be kept between
40 and 55% all year around.
THANK YOU
Liceria & Co.

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