M A D R I D TOT E

BEGINNER ONE SIZE

 THE MADRID TOTE
THE MADRID TOTE is a large, versatile
carry-all tote bag with side pockets, boxed
corners, and webbing straps. This bag
was designed with grocery shopping in
mind, but you may find it just as useful as
an everyday bag. The techniques involved
in this project are perfect for introducing
the beginner sewist to many of the
foundational skills.

VIEW 1: Create a bag using the same fabric

throughout.

VIEW 2: Create a bag with contrasting

pockets.

VIEW 1 VIEW 2

FINISHED DIMENSIONS:
Width: 15"/38 cm
Depth: 4"/10 cm
Height: 17"/43
Handle Drop: 15" /38 cm

SHOPPING LIST: SUPPLIES & TOOLS:

VIEW 1: VIEW 2: • Ruler
• 1 meter or 1 1/4 yards of self fabric • 0.6 meters or 3/4 yards of self fabric • Tailors chalk
• 3.5 meters or 3.8 yards of webbing. • 1/2 meter or yard of contrasting • Measuring tape
• Thread fabric. • Scissors
• 3.5 meters or 3.8 yards of webbing. • Sewing needle
• Thread • Pins
• Iron

SUGGESTED FABRIC NOTIONS: TECHNIQUES:

• Medium to heavy weight denim, VIEW 1: • Edge finishing
waxed cotton, light to mid-weight • All-purpose thread to match bag • Edge stitching
canvas, oilcloth. fabric and webbing. You may also • Reinforced stitching
WEBBING: choose to have contrast stitching. • Single turned hem
• Cotton, polypropylene or nylon VIEW 2: • Double turned hem
webbing with a width of 1" - 11/4". • All-purpose thread to match self • Boxed corners
Choose a webbing to coordinate fabric, contrasting pocket fabric and
with your fabric. webbing. You may also choose to
have contrast stitching.
• Straight seams

beginner
advanced beginner
intermediate
advanced

1
 PRINTING ASSEMBLY
The tiled PDF pattern is prepared for letter and A4 Prepare pattern pieces for assembly by cutting sheets
printing paper. along the edges indicated by a scissors symbol.
The remaining uncut edges will be used to assist in
Open the pattern using a PDF viewer. We recommend
assembly of the pattern by taping the adjoining edges
Adobe Reader or Adobe Acrobat on a Mac or PC.
to them.
Visit http://get.adobe.com/reader/ to download Adobe
Reader for free if you don’t already have it. Mac users The most accurate cutting method is to use a small
can also choose to open PDFs with Apple’s Preview rotary cutter or craft knife, a ruler with a cork bottom
Application. to prevent slipping, and a cutting mat. If using scissors,
be careful to cut accurately along the indicated lines.
Print all the pages in the document at 100% size.
On each edge to be attached to another tile, you’ll
IMPORTANT: Page scaling is usually turned on by
find diamond marks. Match the paper tiles by aligning
default and will cause your pattern to be printed at
the diamond marks from corresponding pages (eg: 5b
the wrong size. When printing, be sure to disable print
will match to 5b on the neighboring page). Tape pieces
scaling! You’ll save yourself a lot of tears, and the world
together.
a lot of trees.
Follow the assembly diagram (below) as a guide. Once
Before printing the entire pattern, print Page 1 and
the pattern is assembled, you can either cut the pieces
measure the test square. This way, you will know that
out or trace the pieces using tracing paper. This will
your printing settings will correctly print the pattern
allow you to reuse the pattern and make a different
to scale.
size.

NOTE: If you intend to cut out the pattern pieces from

the tiled pattern, you want to avoid having the tiled
pieces separate when cutting. Make sure the places
where the pattern pieces meet between two tiles are
secured with tape.

ASSEMBLY DIAGRAM

B
MADRID TOTE
POCKET
MATCH POINT: MATCH POINT: VIEW 1: CUT 2 SELF
TRANSFER TO RIGHT SIDE OF FABRIC TRANSFER TO RIGHT SIDE OF FABRIC VIEW 2: CUT 2 CONTRAST

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A
MADRID TOTE
BAG BODY
VIEW 1 & 2: CUT 2 SELF
CUT: 2 SELF

STITCH LINE:
SHARE YOUR MAKES WITH US! TRANSFER TO RIGHT SIDE OF FABRIC
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2

• GATHER TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
Make sure you have all the necessary
items at hand so you are ready when
you need them.
• PREPARE FABRIC: Pre-wash, dry, and
iron fabric and trims before starting
your project, unless fabric care states
otherwise. This will prevent your
finished garment from shrinking.
GET READY
• CUT YOUR FABRIC: Cutting • TRANSFER PATTERN MARKS TO
layouts will show you how to lay out FABRIC: Before removing the pattern
your fabric and pattern pieces in pieces from the cut fabric, transfer
preparation for cutting. Determine all necessary pattern markings to
your fabric-cutting layout by your bag the right side of the fabric. Follow
version, size, and fabric width. Pin the symbol legend on your pattern
pattern pieces to the fabric (or use to understand what the symbols
pattern weights) and cut away. represent.
• SEW: All pattern pieces include a
1/2" (1.3 cm) seam allowance, unless
otherwise indicated. Pin and sew all
pieces with right sides together unless
otherwise indicated.

PATTERN INVENTORY CUT LIST

View 1 View 2
A: x 2 self A: x 2 self
A B B: x 2 self B: x 2 Contrast

A: Bag Front B: Pocket

FABRIC PATTERN
CUTTING LAYOUT
Right side Wrong side Right side of pattern. Place
of fabric of fabric piece face up onto fabric.

VIEW 1 VIEW 2
45" & 54" (114 & 137 cm) Width 45" & 54" (114 & 137 cm) Width

SELF SELF CONTRAST

Selvages Selvages Selvages

AA A AA A
BB B BB B

Fold Fold Fold

23” = .623”
m =/ 5/8
.6 myd
/ 5/823”
yd= .6 m / 5/8 yd 23” = .423”
m =/ 1/2
.4 myd
/ 1/223”
yd= .4 m / 1/2 yd
37”m= /1.1
37” = 1.1 m / 1 37”
1 yd yd = 1.1 m / 1 yd

3
 SEWING TERMS AND TECHNIQUES
BACKSTITCH:
A reverse stitch is sewn at the beginning and end of a
seam to prevent the stitches from unraveling, ensuring
that your seam will be secure.
BASTE:
A hand or machine stitch. Long stitches that temporarily
hold layers of fabric together until a permanent stitch
is sewn. To sew a machine baste stitch, set your stitch
length between 4-5 mm
GRAINLINE:
In a sewing pattern, a grainline refers to a line marked
onto each pattern piece. It is used to indicate how to lay
the pattern piece onto the fabric.
In fabric, grainline refers to the yarns that make up the
fabric. There are two directions of yarns; warp runs
along the length of the fabric or selvage edge. The weft
runs perpendicular to the length.
When placing the pattern onto the fabric, place the
pattern's grainline parallel to the warp grain or selvage
edge. This ensures that the grainline is straight for each
piece, ultimately creating a quality project that does not
distort.
MATCH POINT:
A pattern marking that is transferred to the fabric. It is
used during construction to assist in correctly placing
pieces together.
NOTCH:
Pattern markings found along the perimeter edge of the
pattern piece. Notches are used to assist in correctly
aligning edges when sewing pieces together. While
cutting fabric, a small snip is cut into the edge, no
deeper than 1/4" (6 mm) in the location of the pattern's
notch symbol.
4
EDGESTITCH:
A row of stitching alongside a seam or edge. An
edgestitch is sewn onto the right side of the fabric, 1/8"
(3mm) from the edge or seam of a garment. Since the
stitch is visible on the outside of the project, select a
thread keeping in mind that it will be visible. Experiment
with your stitch before you start, determining the
suitability of thread and stitch length.
TOPSTITCH:
A stitch is sewn from the right side of the fabric,
typically 1/4" (6 mm) from the edge or seam of a garment,
unless otherwise indicated.
PIVOT:
Performed when there is a change in the direction of
a stitch. Drop the needle into the fabric at the end of
the first stitch direction, lift the presser foot, rotate the
fabric around the needle, drop the presser foot and
continue the stitch in the next direction.
SEAM ALLOWANCE:
The distance between the cut fabric edge and the stitch
line. The pattern has a built-in seam allowance on all
pieces. Seam allowances can differ in width throughout
the project, so pay attention to the instructions so that
the correct allowance is used. It is essential to use the
directed seam allowance to that all pieces align properly,
and in the case of a garment, that it fits as intended
when complete.
SELF:
This refers to the main fabric used in a project.
STITCH LENGTH:
The length of each stitch is changed for various fabrics,
threads, and types of stitches. The length of each stitch
is measured in mm, and there are typically 10-12 stitches
per 1" (1.2 cm) in a regular stitch; therefore, 2.5 is the
usual setting for a regular stitch length. Basting stitches
are usually set between 4-5 mm.
 SEWING • Sew the Pocket's hem, stitching 3/4" • Pin the Pocket (B) to the Bag (A)
INSTRUCTIONS (2 cm) from the edge. Once sewn, along the bottom and side edges.
press the finished hem.
1/2" (1.3 cm) seam allowance are included • Baste the Pocket (B) in place,
in the pattern. sewing along the bottom and
Backstitch at the beginning and end of
A
side edges at 1/4" (6 mm) seam

B B
every line of stitching, unless otherwise
instructed. B allowance.

B
A
Repeat the following instructions for
both sides of the bag.

A
A
B
A
A
FABRIC KEY B A B
RIGHT SIDE WRONG SIDE
G-1
• Press the upper edge of the Bag
N H N
(A) pieces, preparing for a hem in
WRONG SIDE a later step. First, turn and press
WITH INTERFACING • Using a regular stitch length, sew
the edge towards the wrong side
A-1 A-1 along the stitch line transferred

A
by 1/2" (1.3 cm). Turn the edge over

S
from the pattern, stitching onto
once again, towards the wrong
2" the Pocket (B), and through the
FRONT POCKET side by 1" (2.5 cm) and press.
A A Bag (A) piece.
• Ensure that the "stitch line" is
transferred with chalk from pattern A
B B B onto A
piece
B B
A
B
the pockets.

• Finish the upper edge of Pocket

B A A B
A A
B
A
RA

A
B
(B) with a serge or zig-zag stitch. B B B
A A
B A
B
A B B • Trim all loose threads
B
A
• Place the Pocket (B) piece onto
the right side of the Bag (A). Align
B the notches along the lower edges. WEBBING STRAPS
2"
Connect the upper corners of the
2" A
• Cut two lengths of webbing for
A A
A to the match points on the
Pocket A
the straps. The suggested length
Bag piece. per strap isA70" (5.8 feet), but you
B
• Turn the upper edge of the Pocket B B B B B if desired.
can make them shorter B
A
A(B) towards the wrong side byA 1" A a ruler and tailors chalk to
• Use
(2.5 cm) and press. Pin along the mark a line 1/2" (1.3 cm) in from the
A
folded edge , A
A
B A side edges of the pocket.
B
A B
B
B B A A
A
B B B
B A A
B
A

A
2"
A A 7 B
A
B B
 A
A B A
B
AB A A
B • Arrange and pin the webbing strap • Using tailor's chalk, mark a line 2"
BAG BODY
A
onto the Bag/Pocket piece. Start
by forming the webbing into this
onto the webbing, 2" (2.5 cm)
B A
below the lowest pressed fold A
B
• Place the constructed bag pieces
B A
right sides together. Align, pin, and
shape: along the upper edge of the Bag
sew the side edges at 1/2" (1.3 cm)
(A) piece.
seam allowance. Finish the edges
B with a serge or zig-zag stitch. B
A A 2" A
B
A
A 2" B AA
A B A A B
• The ends of the webbing strap

B
will align to the bottom edge of
B
the bag. The inner edges of the
webbing strap will align to the
A
chalk line that you have marked in
B B
the previous step, 1/2" (1.3 cm) in
A A
from the Pocket's side edge. Pin
the webbing in place to the Bag/
A
Pocket. B A
• As the strap extends past the
upper edge of the Pocket, make
B
sure it is straight as you pin the
webbing to the Bag (A) piece.
A A
B pivot and sew across the webbing.
BBA
B
A
A
2"
B A
• Press the seam allowance over to
B
one side. Both seams should turn
B
• Sew the webbing onto the bag:
Start the stitch at the bottom edge
towards the same side of the bag.
A
B
of the bag and edgestitch along • Align, pin, and sew the bottom
the side of the webbing, sewing edges of the bag together at 1/2"
1/8" (3 mm) from the webbing edge. A
(1.3 cm) seam allowance. Finish with
serge or zig-zag stitch.
A
• When you reach the chalk line,
A

A B • Stop the horizontal stitch 1/8"

B A
B
B
2" webbing
(3 mm) from the opposite

A edge. Pivot once again and

edgestitch down this remaining
A
side of the webbing.
A
B B
2"
A AA
A
B B
B
A

B
8
B A
B B AB
BOXED CORNERS
• At both corners, match the bag's
A side seam to the bottom seam.
A A
B • The upper edge of the bag has
B 2"
• The seam allowances should be
A been pre-pressed in a previous
facing opposite directions; This
A helps to reduce the bulk along the
seam. Align the unfinished edges,
pin and sew across the corner at
1/2" (1.3 cm) seam allowance. Finish
B B
the edge with a serge or zig-zag
stitch.
A B
Tip: When sewing the second
corner, turn the bag's bottom seam
A
allowance towards the same side as
B• Sew the hem by edge stitching along
the first sewn corner; This will prevent
AB
the allowance from twisting along the
seam.
• Trim all loose threads and turn the
bag right side out.
B
A
A
B A
BB
2" B
A 2"
HEM STRAP REINFORCEMENT
• Move the straps away from the • Unpin the webbing straps. Lay
opening edge by pinningA them
to the body of the bag; This will
A
the straps upright, laying overtop
the bag's hem. Using tailor's chalk,
ensure thatBthey remain out of the draw a guideline for a reinforcing
way while sewing the hem.
B
stitch. This guideline is drawn
directly above the existing stitch
step. Use the creases formed from
2"
on the webbing.
A A B
• Draw the first line parallel to the
B
B
AA
that step to turn the opening edge bag's opening edge and 1/8"
in towards the wrong side. The first (3 mm) down from the edge.
fold will be 1/2" (1.3 cm), and the
second will be 1" (2.5 cm). Pin the B
• Next, draw an "X" connecting the
corners of the chalk line to the A
AA
hem in place.
corners of the stitch just below and
parallel to it.
B 2"
A
the folded fabric edge at a scant 1"
• Sew along the chalk guideline,
(2.5 cm) seam allowance.
starting and ending the stitch at
B
the points indicated.
A
A
B
• Repeat this step on both sides of
the two straps.
Tip: It is easiest to sew this stitch with
the inner hem edge facing you, however,
if you are using topstitch thread, sew
the hem with the outside of the bag
uppermost and stitch at 3/4" (2 cm) seam
allowance; This will ensure that you catch
the fabric edge in the stitch.
9
• Sew a bar tack stitch across to the parallel lines of the • Create a fold at these marks, bring the bag's hem
reinforcing stitch. A bar-tack is a tight and narrow zig- edge together so that the inner edges of the hem are
zag stitch. A suggested stitch setting is 2.5 stitch width facing.
and just less and .5 mm stitch length.
• Stitch along this folded edge at 1/4" ( 6 mm) seam
allowance. Sew from the top edge of the bag to the
stitch line of the hem.

• Repeat this step to create four corners of the bag.

2" 2" 2" 2"

BAG SHAPING
• Using a ruler and chalk, mark two lines at each side
of the bag's side seam. The marks should be 2" (5 cm)
away from the seam and perpendicular to the upper
edge of the bag.
VICTORY!
Enjoy using your new tote bag!

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