A. Util.

3
Acoustic & Lighting Systems
Task No. 3: Different Architectural Acoustical Materials
A.) Flooring
Flooring is a comprehensive term for a permanent covering of a floor, or to the
process of applying a particular floor covering.
Floor covering refers to the generic description of any applied finished laid over a floor
structure. Both of the aforementioned terminologies: “Flooring” and “Floor cover” can be
used in either way but are specific aspect about floor- covering is that it is made up of
particularly loose-laid materials. Materials in flooring are almost stereotypically classified
as carpet, laminate, tile and vinyl.
A Floor Isolation It is advantageous to leave a 5mm gap between the wall and the
acoustic floor panel when installing acoustic floor panels on new construction and
renovation floors. Once the acoustic floor has been built, this space will allow the
installation of the acoustic edge strips. Packing shims should be used all the way
around the perimeter of the floor to maintain a constant spacing. After installing the
acoustic floor panels throughout the whole floor, take out the packing shims and insert
acoustic edge strips into the void. For this application, ResoEdge flanking strips from
Resonate are appropriate

Phase 1: Floor preparation

The first step in putting carpet or installing tiles is to tidy your workspace. A clean,
dry, and level base is essential for a successful installation.
Replace any outdated metals or loose tack strip before installing soft surfaces such as
carpets to ensure a smooth carpet installation. Begin by carefully preparing the floor for
installation by flattening, sealing, and cleaning it.
In the case of a popping tack strip or a floating floor, failure to undertake sufficient
prep work will make the installation procedure stressful and the end project
unsatisfactory. Getting things properly the first time will also save you time and money
in the long run.

Phase 2: Floor installation

When your surface is complete, you may begin putting your floor. This method is
rather simple if you follow the installation instructions for your specific type of floor. If
you run into any problems, you should seek the advice of a flooring contractor.
Phase 3: The Finishing
T moldings, quarter round, base baseboards, and other trimmings that are properly
cut, stained, and finished may even make a badly constructed floor seem decent. This
stage of your floor installation will need some ingenuity since you may need to adapt
your trim to fit your application.
Final Tip
Most installers struggle with transitions such as reducers and T-moldings. If you are
unable to nail the molding to the surface, try gluing it to the surface with construction
adhesive at the bottom and hot-melt glue on the sides - to keep the molding in place
while the construction adhesive sets. This can assist to minimize costly mishaps caused
by someone stepping on the molding before it has fully adhered to the surface, as well
as delays in your flooring installation.
B.) Walls
The primary function of a wall in architecture is to delimit a space and to support the
roof. Whereas sustaining a roof is a specific architectural and structural difficulty,
delimitation may be seen not just in landscape shapes but also in human social
behavior. The wall forms territories in both circumstances, dividing two places with
distinct contents. The constructed wall depicts the real method in which two disparate
locations collide, interpreting the strong relationship between them. A wall is a structure
and a surface that defines an area, supports a weight, offers security, shelter, or
soundproofing, or is aesthetically pleasing. There are several types of walls, such as
walls in structures that form a key element of the superstructure or separate inner
rooms, which are occasionally used for fire safety.

-Insulation for interior walls

The vibrations that cause undesired noise to penetrate a wall assembly can be
diminished with the correct insulation. Consider using insulation with greater NRC and
STC values
-Soundproof panels or tiles Sound-dampening tiles can be a choice, depending on the
space and design. Although not often designed for aesthetics or ideal for living
environments, these tiles and panels might be appropriate for business workplaces or
coworking spaces.

Phase 1: Improve in Insulation

Measure from floor to ceiling and multiply by the number of between-the-studs areas
you need to fill to determine how much rolled or batted insulation to purchase. That is
your whole ancestry. The breadth of the insulation you buy will be determined by the
distance between the studs. To figure out how many rolls or batts you'll need, divide the
total lineage by the length of the batt (typically 8 feet) or roll (other lengths are
available).
Determine if the studs are 2x4 or 2x6 by measuring their depth. The R-value you
choose will be affected by this. Attempting to squeeze R-19 or R-21 into an R-13 slot
would be challenging and would result in the R-19 or R-21 value not being obtained.
Phase 2: Clean Wall
Determine if the studs are 2x4 or 2x6 by measuring their depth. The R-value you
choose will be affected by this. Attempting to squeeze R-19 or R-21 into an R-13 slot
would be challenging and would result in the R-19 or R-21 value not being obtained.
Trim Insulation
Phase 3: Trim and unroll insulation
If you're working from a roll, you may either trim for length while the insulation is laid
out on the floor, or you can start at the top of the space you're filling, roll down to the
bottom, and trim there using a utility knife. If you're dealing with batts, you'll most likely
have 8-foot lengths and won't need to cut at all. Gently press the insulation into the
opening between the wall studs, trimming around electrical outlets.

Phase 4: Staple Insulation Edges

Snug-fitting insulation does not require attachment but faced insulation has stapling
flanges—extra paper facing along each side edge that allows you to staple it to the side
of the wall stud. Because open-faced insulation cannot be stapled, it must fit snugly in
order for friction to hold it in place.
Insulation Installation Tips for Walls
-Always avoid compressing the insulation. While this appears to have little influence on
its efficacy, eliminating the air between the fibers significantly reduces the R-value.
-For maximum function, if a roll or batt is too long for a location, it must be shortened
and never folded over itself.
-When completed, remove your work clothing from your usual laundry and run the rinse
cycle twice.

Install acoustic foam behind your recording gear. Sound bouncing off the walls can
distort and distort your recordings. Consider installing acoustic foam behind a mixer or
workstation if you do music there. Covering a complete wall can considerably minimize
sound reflection; but while recording, you just need a single panel to see a difference.
Place the foam in between both of your studio monitors or speakers. Acoustic foam will
not effectively soundproof a room.
Acoustic foam should be placed on the wall, centered, and at ear level.
Install foam on the opposite walls of your speakers. Installing foam on the wall
opposite your speakers will reduce the amount of sound that bounces back into your
recording equipment.
Rubbing alcohol should be used to clean your walls. Remove filth from the walls you
want the foam to go on with a clean towel or cloth wet in rubbing alcohol. Cleaning the
walls before placing the acoustic foam will aid in its adherence. Do not use standard
household cleaners as they will reduce the foam's adhesive. Measure the foam panels
and the wall where they will be installed. Place the foam panels side by side on a level
surface and use a tape measure to note their total length and breadth on a sheet of
paper.
If the foam panels don't fit, cut them using an electric cutting knife. A clean edge may be
obtained by cutting the foam with an electric knife. Hold the panel on its narrow end and
cut through the acoustic foam with a carving knife. Then trace the foam panels on the
wall. Using your measurements, make an X in each corner of the installation location.
C.) Ceiling
The above surface or surfaces covering a space, as well as the underside of a floor
or roof, are all examples of ceilings. Ceilings are frequently utilized to conceal the
construction of floors and roofs. Ceilings have been popular places for decoration since
the beginning of time, whether by painting the flat surface, emphasizing the structural
members of the roof or floor, or treating it as a field for an overall pattern. In modern
architecture, ceilings are classified into two major types: suspended (or hung) ceilings
and exposed ceilings. Some architects have attempted to conceal large quantities of
mechanical and electrical equipment, such as electrical conduits, air-conditioning ducts,
water pipes, sewage lines, and lighting fixtures, by hanging ceilings some distance
below structural components. To support plasterboard sheets or acoustical tiles, most
suspended ceilings employ a lightweight metal grid hung from the structure by wires or
rods.

Installation of Gypsum Board

Drywall is often put by screwing it directly to wood or metal studs and joists situated in a
structure's walls or ceilings. Occasionally, drywall is put with specific drywall nails
instead of screws in wood-framed structures; however, this is becoming less prevalent.
Following the installation of the drywall panels, the seams between the individual panels
are filled with joint compound and taped to give a smooth surface. To achieve a flat
sheet, the points of connection (the screw positions) are additionally filled in with joint
compound and smoothed off. After the joint compound has cured, the surface of the
walls is sanded to ensure that it is flat and suitable for painting.

Suspended Ceiling Board

Acoustic ceilings and acoustic wood panels
Acoustic panels are sound-absorbing wood
panels used for acoustic conditioning and
reverberation control, and they are installed
as part of the room's wood walls and acoustic
ceilings.
Alternate Method: Cut the given wire into four
pieces. Attach one piece of wire to each of
the four eye hooks on the back of the
panel, then attach the other end to four evenly spaced hooks in the ceiling. Hooks are
not included. Any hook rated for hanging plants should suffice. We prefer Ooks hooks.
Hanging plant chain is a lightweight, non-heavy-duty chain. Attach the chain to the four
eye hooks with S hooks, then to the four hooks in the ceiling. This allows you to count
the links, allowing the panel to hang more level and parallel to the floor. Another
alternative is to run the chain over the two feet, requiring just two hooks in the ceiling.
Phase 1: Create Your Grid
It takes considerable planning to create an equally spaced suspended-ceiling grid. Use
graph paper with 1/4-inch squares to plan out your tile placements.

Phase 2: Even It Out

Even in a square space, adjacent walls might differ in length by 1-2 inches. For
example, if one end of your space is 14 feet long and the other is 14 feet 2 inches long,
draw a line 7 feet, 1 inch from either side. Marking your center line at 14 feet will result
in no border on one side of your room and a 2 inch border on the other. This will cause
your room to appear unbalanced.
Phase 3: Make a Grid Plan
A wall angle must be installed on each of your perimeter walls when installing a
suspended tile system. This is a slender L-shaped metal element that supports the tile's
edges. Install these angle pieces so that they are 2 to 3 inches lower than the lowest
object on your ceiling, allowing you to put your ceiling tiles.
Phase 4: Set up your wall angle pieces.
Make a level chalk line on your walls to serve as a guide while installing your angle
pieces. This line should be located at the top of your angle. Along this line, nail the
angle to the wall. Nails should be spaced every 2 feet. Angle pieces overlap on the
inside corners. Miter them at 45 degrees on the outside corners.
Phase 5: Set up Your Tees
Follow your center line while installing your primary support tees. This will allow you to
install your cross tee slots correctly. If you have any queries regarding this location, go
to the instructions included with your grid package.
Phase 6:
Suspend Your Wire
Connect the wire ends to the screw eyes hooks in the angle pieces' holes. Then,
following your layout design, install your initial tiles in one corner of the room. Cut your
tiles to fit as needed with a razor knife or utility knife. Using a drywall saw, cut holes for
light fittings.
D. Furniture
Upholstered furniture is the best for soundproofing. Plush textiles such as suede,
microfiber, chenille, and corduroy may do wonders for sound absorption in chairs and
couches. Add textured throw cushions to your chair or sofa for even extra
soundproofing. Thick drapes can also help to soundproof a room, especially if there is a
lot of noise coming in via the windows as some sound is absorbed by furniture.
Upholstered furniture, such as chairs and couches, is the finest for absorbing sound, but
you may greatly increase your performance by properly positioning it inside the space.
When it comes to sound absorption through furniture, placement is equally as crucial as
substance.

Furniture can have a surprising effect on the acoustics of a space. If you’ve ever moved
house you’ll already know this. Once you remove all the furniture from a room it’s
suddenly easy to notice the echo.
Soundproofing relies on a few core principles. These include:
1. Mass
2. Isolation
3. Absorption (dampening)
4. Conduction
Furniture basically helps with 2 of these: mass and absorption. Furniture, such as
chairs, sofas and bookcases, is often quite heavy (or mass rich).
This helps to block sound waves from transmitting around a space because, simply put,
it’s harder for sound waves to vibrate something heavy.
The Best Furniture for Absorbing Sound

Panels for acoustics

The primary function of acoustic panels
is to eliminate leftover sound in any
room. Acoustic panels, when properly
fitted in a space, can absorb or disperse
sound from the initial point of reflection.

Sound waves travel through matter by causing particles to vibrate. This might be
particles in the air or particles in a solid item.
A solid object with an open structure traps sound waves since they can enter but cannot
escape due to the density of the item.
The sound waves cause the particles in the material to vibrate, but they lose energy in
the process. They are turned into little quantities of heat energy during the process.
Rugs and Carpets
Carpets are well-known for their ability to absorb sound, making them an excellent
choice for schools, hotels, and office environments. Highly piled carpets or carpets with
a thick underlying cushion are now the best at absorbing and suppressing sound
transmission. Choosing a carpet that best complements your design goal makes it
simple to incorporate into your room. It should also be in line with your financial
constraints.

Phase1: Choosing the Right Carpet Type for You At Flooring America, we provide a
wide range of carpet brands as well as carpet kinds. Plush (or cut) pile, berber cut pile,
berber loop pile, cut-and-loop pile, and commercial loop are the five basic cut styles of
carpet. Each of these carpet kinds is available in a variety of fibers, both natural (such
as Wool, Sea Grass, Sisal, and Coir) and synthetic (such as nylon, polyester, acrylic or
olefin).
Phase 2: Replacing Old Carpet Removing old carpet may be a challenging
undertaking. Years of use, especially if you have pets, can leave your carpet drenched
in grime and animal hair. When it comes to carpet replacement, it's critical to choose a
competent carpet installation.
Phase 3: Laying the Under pad the installer will carefully clean and dry your floor. The
cleaner the underfloor, the cleaner the carpet will feel in the long run. Existing tackless
strips may be left in place by the installation. If there are none, new strips will be
installed. The old carpet cushion will then be removed and replaced with new carpet
padding, resulting in a significant improvement in the feel and performance of your new
carpet.
Phase 4 – Laying the New Carpet pieces must be somewhat larger than the room in
question, with a six-inch overlap. Trimming this overlay may be difficult, and it's critical
that it's done correctly during the carpet repair. Our professional installers get it properly
the first time, avoiding new carpet waste and damage.
Phase 5 – Laying the New Carpet pieces should be somewhat bigger than the room,
with a six-inch overlap. Trimming this overlay may be tough, but it is vital that it is done
correctly during the carpet restoration process. Our expert installers do it right the first
time, eliminating new carpet waste and damage.
Phase 6 – Stretching and Attaching the Carpet To complete the installation, the carpet
must be stretched using a "knee kicker" and then a carpet spreader to attach to the
tackless strips along each wall. Stretching should be followed by final wall trimming,
tucking at the walls, and reinstalling baseboard molding.

Wall hangings (such as tapestries)

The woven materials of tapestry wall hangings operate similarly to other fabrics in
the room, minimizing sound reflection and smoothing the acoustic environment. Fabric
wall hangings give a few unique and great reasons why they should be incorporated to
every home, in addition to the acoustic advantage.

Bookcases (filled with books of course)

A bookcase can shield you from the sounds of your neighbor. Large textbook stacks
may be useful for more than just collecting dust. If you and your noisy neighbor share a
wall, place a bookcase against it. The greater the size of the bookcase, the less sound
will pass through.

Plants

A bookcase can shield you from the sounds of your neighbor. Large textbook stacks
may be useful for more than just collecting dust. If you and your noisy neighbor share a
wall, place a bookcase against it. The greater the size of the bookcase, the less sound
will pass through.
E. Other Areas
We recommend the soundproof adhesive
method for installing Soundproof Cow’s acoustic
panels. This process is easy to perform and
provides fantastic acoustical results. Here’s how
you can do it yourself:

Sand: Your first step is to sand the surface on

which you’ll be mounting your acoustic panel. This
evens the surface to prepare it to accept the
adhesive’s bonding power. Any high-grit
sandpaper will do. After sanding, be sure to clean
any dust and debris.
Level: Use a straight-edge level and a pencil to
mark the area where you’ll be placing your panel. Doing this will ensure your panels are
straight after you hang them.
Screw: Next, you’ll screw the included leveling brackets onto the mounting surface. This
will help your panels lay the correct way on the wall when you install them.
Apply: Apply adhesive to the back of the acoustic panel. Start by adding a line of
adhesive to the perimeter of the panel about two inches from the edge. Then make an
“X” with the adhesive to divide the rectangle into four equal sections. Put a 2- to 4-inch
circle of adhesive in each of these sections.
Install: The final step is to put the panel onto the wall and allow about a day for the
adhesive to cure.

Fiberglass, rock and slag wool, cellulose, and natural fibers are examples of bulky
fiber insulation materials, whereas stiff foam boards and sleek foils are examples of
sleek foils. Bulky materials in a building cavity hinder conductive and, to a lesser extent,
convective heat movement. To restrict heat flow, rigid foam boards trap air or another
gas. Highly reflecting foils used in radiant barriers and reflective insulation systems
deflect radiant heat away from living spaces, making them especially beneficial in
cooling climes. Other less prevalent materials include cementitious and phenolic foams,
as well as vermiculite and perlite.
Fiberglass is one of the most used insulating
materials and is made up of incredibly thin glass
fibers. It is frequently used in several various
types of insulation, including blanket (batts and
rolls), loose-fill, rigid boards, and duct insulation.
Medium- and high-density fiberglass batt
insulation materials with somewhat greater R-
values than regular batts are now available from
manufacturers. Denser insulation solutions are
designed for insulating areas with limited hollow
space, such as cathedral ceilings.
High-density fiberglass batts have an R-15 rating
for a 2 by 4-inch stud-framed wall, compared to R-11 for "low density" varieties. For the
same thickness, a medium-density batt provides R-13. High-density batts for a 2 by 6-
inch frame wall provide R-21, while high-density batts for an 8.5-inch area provide R-30.
R-38 batts are also available for 12-inch spacing. Fiberglass insulation is created by
spinning or blowing molten glass into fibers. The majority of producers employ 40% to
60% recycled glass content. Loose-fill insulation must be installed with an insulation-
blowing equipment in either open-blow (attic spaces) or closed-cavity applications (such
as those found inside existing walls or covered attic floors). Find out more about where
to insulate.
The Blow-In-Blanket System is one type of fiberglass loose-fill insulation (BIBS).
Because of the efficient coverage provided by this type of application, walls insulated
with a BIBS system are substantially better filled than those insulated with other forms
of fiberglass insulation such as batts.
The more recent BIBS HP is a cost-effective hybrid technology that blends BIBS with
spray polyurethane foam.

Mineral Wool Insulation Materials

The phrase "mineral wool" is commonly
used to refer to two types of insulating
materials:
Rock wool is a man-made substance
formed of natural minerals such as
basalt or diabase. Slag wool is a
synthetic material manufactured from
blast furnace slag (the waste matter that
forms on the surface of molten metal).
Mineral wool includes 75% post-industrial recycled material on average. It does not
need any extra chemicals to be fire resistant, and it is widely available as blanket (batts
and rolls) and loose-fill insulation.

Cellulose Insulation Material

Cellulose insulation is created from recycled paper materials, mostly newspaper, and
has a high recycled content, often ranging from 82% to 85%. The paper is first cut into
small pieces before being fiberized, resulting in a product that fits neatly into
construction cavities.
To assure fire and insect resistance, manufacturers add the mineral borate, which is
occasionally combined with the less expensive ammonium sulfate. Cellulose insulation
cannot settle in a building cavity when put at the right densities.
Cellulose insulation is utilized in both new and existing dwellings, as loose-fill in open
attics and densely packed in construction cavities such as walls and cathedral ceilings.
Installers remove a strip of exterior siding, usually about waist high; drill a row of three-
inch holes through the wall sheathing, one into each stud bay; insert a special filler tube
to the top of the wall cavity; and blow the insulation into the building cavity, typically to a
density of 1.5 to 3.5 lb. per cubic foot When the installation is finished, the holes are
sealed with a plug, and the siding is reinstalled and, if required, touched up to match the
wall. Cellulose can be damp-sprayed or put dry behind netting in new building. A tiny
quantity of moisture is introduced at the spray nozzle tip when wet sprayed, activating
natural starches in the product and causing it to stick inside the cavity. Within 24 hours
of installation, damp-sprayed cellulose is normally ready for wall covering. Cellulose
may also be blown dry and stitched into netting to cover structural voids.

Cellulose Insulation Material

Cotton, sheep's wool, straw, and hemp are among the natural fibers used as insulation.

Cotton

Cotton insulation is made up of 85% recycled cotton and 15% plastic fibers treated with
borate, the same flame retardant and insect/rodent repellent found in cellulose
insulation. One item is made from recycled blue jean manufacturing trim waste.
Because of its recycled composition, this product requires less energy to produce.
Cotton insulation comes in batts Sheep's Wool
Sheep's wool is also treated with borate to withstand bugs, fire, and mold when used as
insulation. Sheep's wool batts have R-13 and R-19 values for a 2 by 4-inch and 2 by 6-
inch stud-framed wall, respectively.

Straw

Straw bale building, which was prominent in the United States' Great Plains 150
years ago, has resparked interest.
The technique of fusing straw into boards without the use of adhesives was invented in
the 1930s. Panels are typically 2 to 4 inches (5 to 102 mm) thick and faced on both
sides with heavyweight kraft paper. The boards are also useful as sound-absorbing
panels for interior dividers. Some companies have created structural insulated panels
out of multiple-layered compressed straw panels.
Hemp

In the United States, hemp insulation is somewhat unknown and rarely utilized. Its R-
value is comparable to that of other fiber insulation kinds.

Polystyrene Insulation Materials

Polystyrene, a colorless,
transparent thermoplastic, is
often used to manufacture foam
board or beadboard insulation,
concrete block insulation, and a
form of loose-fill insulation made
of tiny polystyrene beads.
MEPS, which is typically used
for foam board insulation, is also
available as tiny foam beads.
These beads can be used as pouring insulation for concrete blocks or other hollow wall
cavities; however, they are incredibly lightweight, readily pick up static electricity, and
are notoriously difficult to regulate.
Expanded polystyrene (EPS) and extruded polystyrene are two more polystyrene
insulating materials similar to MEPS (XPS). Both EPS and XPS are constructed of
polystyrene, however EPS is comprised of tiny plastic beads that are fused together,
whereas XPS begins as a molten substance that is pressed into sheets. The most
typical application for XPS is foam board insulation. EPS is frequently manufactured in
blocks that may be readily sliced to construct board insulation. EPS and XPS are both
often utilized as insulation in structural insulating panels (SIPs) and insulating concrete
forms (ICFs). The R-value of XPS insulation can decrease over time when part of the
low-conductivity gas escapes and is replaced by air, a phenomenon known as thermal
drift or aging. Polystyrene foam board's thermal resistance, or R-value, is determined by
its density. When opposed to foam board, polystyrene loose-fill or bead insulation often
has a lower R-value.

Polyisocyanurate Insulation Materials

Polyisocya
nurate, often
known as polyiso,
is a thermosetting closed-cell foam made of a low-conductivity,
hydrochlorofluorocarbon-free gas. Polyisocyanurate insulation comes in liquid, sprayed
foam, and rigid foam board forms. It may also be formed into laminated insulating
panels with various facings. Polyisocyanurate insulation foamed-in-place is typically less
expensive than foam board installation and can perform better since the liquid foam
conforms itself to all surfaces.
The R-value of polyisocyanurate insulation can decrease over time when part of the
low-conductivity gas escapes and is replaced by air, a phenomenon known as thermal
drift or ageing. According to experimental data, most of the thermal drift happens within
the first two years after the insulating material is created.
Foil and plastic facings on rigid polyisocyanurate foam panels can help slow down the
aging process. Reflective foil, if installed correctly and facing an open-air space, can
also act as a radiant barrier. Depending upon the size and orientation of the air space,
this can add another R-2 to the overall thermal resistance.
Polyisocyanurate is used as an insulating material in structural insulated panels by
some manufacturers (SIPs). A SIP can be made from foam board or liquid foam. When
liquid foam is injected between two wood skins under high pressure, it hardens and
forms a tight connection between the foam and the skins. Polyisocyanurate wall panels
are generally 3.5 inches (89 mm) thick. Ceiling panels can be as thick as 7.5 inches
(190 mm). Although more costly, these panels are more resistant to fire and water vapor
dispersion than EPS. They also provide 30% to 40% more insulation for the same
thickness.

Polyurethane Insulation Materials

Polyurethane is a
thermoset foam
insulating material
with cells that contain
a low-conductivity gas.
Polyurethane foam
insulation comes in
both closed-cell and
open-cell formulations.
Closed-cell foam has
high-density cells that are sealed and filled with a gas that allows the foam to expand
and fill the areas surrounding it. Open-cell foam cells are less thick and filled with air,
resulting in a spongy texture and a lower R-value.
The R-value of closed-cell polyurethane insulation, like that of polyiso foam, can
decrease with time when part of the low-conductivity gas escapes and is replaced by
air, a phenomenon known as thermal drift or ageing. The majority of thermal drift
happens within the first two years of insulating material creation, after which the R-value
remains constant until the foam is destroyed.
Thermal drift may be reduced by using foil and plastic facings on stiff polyurethane foam
panels. Reflective foil, when properly put and facing an open air environment, may also
function as a radiant barrier. This can add additional R-2 to the overall thermal
resistance depending on the size and direction of the air gap.
Polyurethane insulation comes in two varieties: liquid sprayed foam and stiff foam
board. It may also be formed into laminated insulating panels with various facings.
Sprayed or foamed-in-place polyurethane insulation systems are typically less
expensive than installing foam boards, and they function better since the liquid foam
molds itself to all surfaces. The foaming agent in all closed-cell polyurethane foam
insulation manufactured today is a non-HCFC (hydrochlorofluorocarbon) gas.
Low-density foams are sprayed into open wall cavities, where they rapidly expand to
seal and fill the space. Slow expanding foam is also available for use in existing housing
cavities. The liquid foam expands gently, lowering the risk of overexpansion harming the
wall. The foam is water vapor permeable, flexible, and resistant to moisture wicking. It
has strong air sealing properties, is fire resistant, and will not maintain a flame.
There are additional polyurethane liquid spray-foam products made from soy. These
materials may be applied using the same equipment as petroleum-based polyurethane
foam.

Perlite Insulation Materials

Perlite insulation materials are typically found in attics of buildings constructed before
1950.
Perlite is manufactured from very tiny, lightweight pellets created by heating rock pellets
until they explode. This produces a sort of loose-fill insulation consisting of pellets,
which may be put into position or combined with cement to produce a lightweight, less
heat-conductive concrete.

Cementitious Foam Insulation Material

Cementitious insulating material is a cement-based foam that may be sprayed or

foamed in place. Aircrete, a form of cementitious spray foam insulation, comprises
magnesium silicate and has a similar initial viscosity to shaving cream. Pumping air
krete into closed cavities. Cementitious foam costs roughly the same as polyurethane
foam, is nontoxic and nonflammable, and is manufactured from minerals recovered from
saltwater (such as magnesium oxide).

Phenolic Foam Insulation Material

As rigid foam board insulation,
phenolic (phenol-formaldehyde)
foam was formerly common. It is
now available in limited
quantities as board insulation
and as foamed-in-place
insulation.
The foaming agent in phenolic foamed-in-place insulation is air. One significant
downside of phenolic foam is that it shrinks up to 2% after curing, making it less
common nowadays.

Insulation Facings

During the production process, facings are attached to insulating materials. A facing
covers the surface of the insulation, keeps it together, and makes attachment to
construction components easier. Some varieties of facing can also function as an air,
radiant, and/or vapor barrier, and some even provide flame protection. Kraft paper,
white vinyl sheeting, and aluminum foil are common facing materials. If the connections
between the insulation boards are taped and sealed, all of these materials operate as a
vapor and air barrier. Aluminum foil may also be used to create a radiative barrier. Your
climate, as well as where and how you install the insulation in your home, will influence
the sort of facing and/or barrier you require.
Some of the same materials used as insulation facings can be installed separately to
provide an air barrier, vapor barrier, and/or radiant barrier. Some of the same materials
used as insulation facings can also be utilized to provide an air barrier, vapor barrier,
and/or radiation barrier.