TOPIC 2-FINISHING

Finishing in building construction refers to the final stage of the construction process,
where the interior and exterior elements of a building are installed or applied to achieve
a functional and aesthetically pleasing appearance.
Dry lining fixing
Dry-lining a wall means attaching plasterboard to a wall, which gives you a smooth finish to
decorate straight away. It's much easier to get a good result this way than with wet plaster and it
is easier alternative to re-plastering.

FIXINGS TECHNIQUES

1. Nails

Nails are an ancient method of holding two items together and although crude, they are relatively
cheap and simple to use. They are mainly used in timber applications for example, to hold
together glued joints, for attaching plasterboard to walls and ceilings, and for nailing down
floorboards and roof battens.

There are many types available and include:

 Round, plain-head wire nails

 Lath nail
 Clout nail
 Roofing nail
 Cut clasp nail
 Pipe nail
 Tack
 Upholstery nail
 Panel pin
 Staple

2. Screws

Unlike nails which are hammered in, screws require fixing with a screwdriver. For this purpose,
they come with various head shapes – slotted, cross-head (Phillips) or other – and in a choice
of materials. When fixing materials together or attaching items to a wall, screws can be
preferable to nails as they typically give a better clamping force and can also be removed and
reinstated in a reverse process to that of fixing.

When used in masonry walls however, rawl plugs are required to give a better grip into
the material being fixed into, whether masonry or concrete. In these applications, screws are not
driven into the wall directly but into a rawl plug (usually plastic) that is inserted into a drilled
hole. These are available in moulded or extruded plastic or
the traditional fibre material. Expansion sleeves are also available for use with masonry nails and
are used for fixing wall linings and skirting boards.

In woodwork, when screws are used with an adhesive, there is usually no need to
temporarily clamp together the two pieces as might be needed when just using an adhesive.
 Screws are typically made of mild steel, but are also available in corrosion-resistant stainless
steel and brass. Some may also be plated with zinc, chrome or brass.

The typical elements of a screw are:

 The head, which determines which type of screwdriver can be used – e.g whether cross-
head or slotted – and allows the screw to be driven. The screw head itself can take
various forms according to the work in hand. These include countersunk, roundhead (or
domed), raised head, mirror screws or pan head (self-tapping)
 The shaft, which comprises a shank (and which acts as a dowel) below the head, and the
threaded portion which is generally around two thirds of the shaft length and ends in a point to
allow easier starting.

Screws are usually described by their length and their shank diameter (gauge or SWG – usually a
number from 1-20).

Other accessories that can be used with screws include caps, cups and sockets.

3. Nuts and bolts

A bolt is a type of fastener, usually made from metal, that commonly comprises a head at one
end, a chamfer at the other, and a shaft characterised by an external helical ridge known as a
‘thread’. Bolts are typically used to hold materials or objects together, or to position objects.

The chamfer at the opposite end of the head provides a slightly bevelled edge which helps with
inserting the bolt into holes and nuts. Bolts typically (but not always) require a nut which is
applied via torque while the bolt is held in place (or vice versa). Vibration or
dynamic loads may loosen nuts, necessitating the use of locknuts, lock washers or thread lockers
which can provide resistance to loosening.

Special plugs (anchors)

A range of special wall fixings are available which can be used to provide fixings in
hollow walls. As the screw is turned into the anchor/ fixing, grippers expand to apply a force on
the other side of the material, be it plasterboard or ply etc, thereby giving a good grip and fixing.

4. Rivets

A rivet is a mechanical fastener for making a permanent join between two or

more metal sheets. Riveting is the act of fastening or securing two plates with one or more rivets.
The rivet comprises a shank with a plain end (or tail), and a head on the other end. The rivet has
proved to be one of the most reliable and safe means of fastening, forming a permanent and
structurally robust join.
 5. Adhesives

Adhesives are bonding agents used to join materials by glueing.

6. Welding

Welding is a technique that can be used to join metallic components through the application
of heat. It produces a secure and strong joint by combining two metals into one rather than other
processes such as brazing and soldering that bond the pieces together.

Others

Other types of fixing include:

 Soldering.
 Clamps or cramps.
 Crimps.
 Staples.

How to dry-line a wall

Procedure
A).Prepare to dry-line a wall
To make sure your plasterboard is straight when it's on the wall, you need to mark guidelines on
the walls and ceiling to help you put the boards in the right place.
B).Fit the plasterboard when dry-lining a wall
Plasterboard adhesive sets really quickly. It's a good idea to do just one area of your wall at a
time. Mark on the wall where you want the dabs of adhesive to go before you start. There should
be lines of dabs from the top to bottom of the wall, but don't bridge the joins between sheets of
plasterboard with any of these.
Step 1-Use a marker spray to mark the position of the adhesive dabs 400mm apart (or whatever
the adhesive manufacturer's instructions advice). Then mix your plasterboard adhesive in a
bucket.
Step 2-Using a builder's float and pointing hawk, put dabs of adhesive on the walls.
Step 3-Lift your plasterboard into place, in line with the chalk lines on the wall and ceiling.
Step 4-Use a heavy batten to tap the board flat against the wall. A long piece of 50x100mm
timber will be perfect to do this.
Step 5-Check the board is perfectly vertical with a spirit level.
Step 6-Make sure the board fits snugly against your ceiling. If it doesn't, lift it with a board lifter
or a bolster and wood off-cuts. Do the same with your next sheet of plasterboard.
C). fit a corner when dry-lining a wall
It's a fact that walls and corners are rarely straight. If you want a neat fit you'll need to cut a
plasterboard sheet to the shape of the wall. Measure the gap between the wall and the closest
sheet of plasterboard. Then cut a sheet of plasterboard 250mm wider than the gap, and a small
piece the same width as the gap,
Step 1-Position the plasterboard sheet 200mm away from the corner. Next, place one end of the
small piece against the corner at the top of the wall, and the other overlapping the plasterboard
sheet. Then move this piece down to the floor, tracing the shape of the corner on the
plasterboard.
Step 2-Cut along the line and use a plasterboard rasp to neaten the edge.
D).fit plasterboard in a window recess
Step 1-First, measure the height and width of the window reveals. Then cut pieces of
plasterboard to size and stick them in place with adhesive.
Step 2-Use masking tape to temporarily hold the pieces in position.
Step 3-Measure the width and depth at the top of the window reveal. Then cut a piece of
plasterboard to size and stick it in place with adhesive.
Step 4-Use timber supports between the plasterboard and window sill to hold the top piece of
plasterboard in place while the adhesive dries
E). finish internal corners when dry-lining a wall
To get a perfect finish along internal corners and the join with your ceiling, use a paper-faced
metal angle bead stuck in place with a jointing compound. A steel-bladed internal corner trowel
will help you give the compound a smooth finish.
Step 1-Start by measuring the height of your wall. Cut the angle bead 12.5mm shorter than the
wall height with tinsnips, cutting first from one side to the other
Step 2-Mix the jointing compound in a bucket and spread it on the corner with a filling knife,
covering just beyond where the angle bead will fit.
Step 3-Press the angle bead into position in the corner.
Step 4-Cover with a top coat of jointing compound and smooth with an internal corner trowel.
F). Treatment of joints when dry-lining a wall
When all the joints are dry, fill the join, the next wall and any other gaps with filler. Then all
you'll need to do is apply a drywall primer to the surface and you're ready to decorate.
Step 1-Mix the jointing compound in a bucket and smooth it down or along the joint with a
filling knife or scraper.
Step 2-Cut a piece of jointing tape the length of the joint with scissors, and press the tape in
place.
Step 3-Use the blade of a coating knife to press jointing compound along the taped join, flush
with the surface of the tape. Quickly smooth the surface and feather the edges of the compound
with a clean damp sponge. Make sure you keep rinsing the sponge and wringing it thoroughly as
too much moisture will weaken the joint.
Step 4-Leave the compound to dry. Then sand any bumps very lightly with a sanding block if
you need to.
G). Finish external corners when dry-lining a wall
You can use a paper-faced metal angle bead to make sure you get a strong join at an external
corner. And an external corner trowel will give you a crisp angle to the jointing compound.
Step 1-First, measure the width and height of the corner and cut the angle bead to fit. Put jointing
compound on the corner and stick the bead in place.
Step 2-Cover the corner with a top coat of jointing compound and smooth it down with external
corner trowel.
SECOND FIX CARPENTRY
Second fix includes all of the work that happens after the plastering process. The second fix
carpenter's role is to ensure that the woodwork of the building has all of the finishing touches.
The tasks that happen during second fix include:
 Internal hardwood and softwood doors
 Architraves to door linings
 Skirting and mouldings
 Pre-formed door sets
 Staircase components
 Low level bathroom boxing’s
Architraves to door linings
Architrave is a common household feature. it is the strip of material that rounds off the wall and
door.
PURPOSE- The purpose of the architrave for doors is to hide that joint and any following
shrinkage and movement between the two. Similarly, a skirting board would be used to cover the
weaker plaster at the base of the wall, and act as a trim where the walls meet the floors.
Skirting
Skirting is basically a board that runs along the border between the interior wall and the floor. It
covers the improper edges, avoids scratches from furniture and gives a room a good finish.
Purpose of Skirting
a) -Hide exposed electrical wiring:
b) -Cover the gap between the walls and floor
c) -Avoids marks from furniture
d) -Improve Interior
Types of Skirting
The skirting board can be of different types based on the design and the material used. They are:
1. Pencil Skirting- This can be installed in walls with patterned or plain walls.

2. Wooden Skirting- Wooden skirting is used for ornamental and traditional looking decors.
 3. Metal Skirting- Stainless steel is the material used for metal skirting. SS skirting gives a
rich and modern look to the home space.

4. Continued Skirting-This is a type of skirting which is provided as a continuation of any

element in the interior space.

5. Flush Skirting-In this, the skirting and the plastering are on the same level as they both
flush with each other. This skirting technique gives a seamless look to the interior space.
As the wall and the skirting are on the same level, they do not catch dust quickly as in the
case of other skirtings, where they stay projected out of the walls.
6. Double Layered Skirting-Double layered skirting helps to give a detailed design to the
room.
-SHELVING
-CORNICES
-CUPBOARD FITTINGS