You are on page 1of 25

K?

<<JJ<EK@8C>L@;<KF9LP@E>FNE@E>8N@;<$9<8D9F8K

WIDE-BEAM
Your Guide to

BOATING
9LP@E>K?<
G<I=<:K9F8K
N?@:?;<J@>E6
N?<I<KF:IL@J<
=@E8E:<:?<:BC@JK

,
K<JK<;
N@;<$9<8D C@M@E>
9F8KJI<M@<N<; 8=CF8K
8n`[\$Y\Xd
eXiifnYfXk]ifd
9cl\nXk\i9fXkj%

:?FFJ@E>PFLI ;lkZ_YXi^\#
g„e`Z_\#n`[\$Y\Xd

design
eXiifnYfXk¿fi
n_Xk6N\\ogcX`e
k_\[`]]\i\ek
kpg\jf]YfXkj%

T
he phrase ‘Dutch barge’
has become synonymous
with elegant wide-beam
craft. Yet there are some
40 genuine Dutch designs – never
mind the countless other wide-beam
craft often lumped in with them.
Which one should you choose?

CLO<DFKFI
This is the most common Dutch
barge style. When first introduced,
between the wars, they were among
the first designs of motorised
craft: barges had previously been
sailed or hauled. They had more
generous and comfortable passenger
accommodation at the stern. Hence
the two words: ‘luxe’ and ‘motor’.
A modern-day luxemotor follows
the same general design, but with
living accommodation instead of
8df[`Ô\[
the cargo hold – purpose-built
clo\dfkfi
for a new craft, or converted
[\j`^e]ifd
from a historic carrying craft.
8hlXc`e\%
The luxemotor is notable for its

)PFLI>L@;<KFN@;<9<8D9F8K@E>
Choosing your design

attractive lines, with a pointed, canal system, its simple but robust

8djk\i[XdBXd\c\feXkÕ`Zbi%Zfd#::$9P$J8
angular bow, gently sweeping construction able to cope with rough
gunwales (sides) with a slight dip, handling at locks and moorings, and
and a curvaceous stern sometimes its 6ft 10in beam narrow enough
referred to as a ‘duck tail’! to go anywhere – inland, that is.
New-build luxemotors can be as The box-like cabin construction is
short as 35ft – a far cry from the simple to build, and makes excellent
maximum-capacity carrying craft use of the limited space available.
of old, which might be a full 100ft Now, many narrowboat builders
or so. They are a good compromise have started to build craft to the
between graceful appearance and same design – but wider. These
bluff practicality, able to maintain a are unable to navigate the smaller
steady speed through the water and Midland canals, but do offer very
undergo short coastal voyages. For spacious interior accommodation
a cruising boat with excellent live- while remaining affordable. They
aboard potential, there are few better. are especially popular as ‘apartment
boats’, mostly residential but with
KA8CB the option of weekend cruising.
The sailing tjalk, sometimes Narrowboats are differentiated
described as looking like a by their stern deck, whether
Dutch clog, was the main sailing long and open (‘cruiser’), long
predecessor of the luxemotor. Its and enclosed (‘semi-trad’) or
lineage as a sailing craft is striking; short (‘trad’). The cruiser style KFG18;lkZ_ carry cargo in France, hundreds
the bulbous bow and stern are an is favoured, but not universal, jX`c`e^kaXcb% have been converted into
obvious contrast to the luxemotor. for wide-beam narrowboats. One residential and pleasure craft, and
Modern tjalks are generally other difference in the wide-beam a walk around a French inland
not sailing craft, of course, but craft is the roof style, which can harbour will show you some
rather steel cruising boats with be almost entirely flat – even luxurious examples of the art.
more pronounced lines than a accommodating a temporary seating The word péniche is sometimes
luxemotor. These are imposing area – or curved to give maximum now used for larger, more modern
craft guaranteed to make an headroom in the centre of the boat. French barges too, but pleasure
immediate impression on the river. boats tend to be of the 38m
GyE@:?<J (‘Freycinet’) standard, thanks
N@;<$9<8DE8IIFN9F8KJ A péniche is a French barge, known to the ready availability of craft
It might sound like a contradiction in the Low Countries as a ‘spitz for conversion and the ability to
in terms, but the wide-beam barge’. They were built to 125ft cruise more scenic waterways.
narrowboat is an increasingly length (38m) especially to fit those
popular sight on Britain’s waterways French waterways which were KI8;@K@FE8C
– though little favoured abroad, enlarged from the 1880s onwards. 9I@K@J?:I8=K
and with limited coastal ability. Its slab sides, blunt bow and For the true traditionalist, you could
The steel narrowboat has become simple round stern are utilitarian consider a carrying barge of British
the most popular craft on Britain’s and hardy. Though still used to design. A few have been converted
for residential use and others are
preserved as leisure boats. Most
have now been fitted with engines.
With the near-extinction of the
C<=K1=fi traditional barges of the Mersey
k_fj\n_f (the ‘flat’) and the Severn (the
gi\]\iX9i`k`j_ ‘trow’), the two types you might
[\j`^e#X see are the Thames barge and,
K_Xd\jYXi^\% more common, the Humber
9<CFN1K_\ keel. Numerous keels survive in
=i\eZ_YXi^\ various states of conversion and
fig„e`Z_\% make spacious residential craft.
;Xm\?Xdjk\iXkÕ`Zbi%Zfd#::$9P$J8

bkpc\iZfebXkÕ`Zbi%Zfd#::$9P$J8

PFLI>L@;<KFN@;<9<8D9F8K@E>*
9lp`e^pfliboat
DXb\jli\pfligliZ_Xj\`jXjX]\fe\n`k_fli\jj\ek`XcÔeXeZ`XcZ_\Zbc`jk

A
barge is possibly the second extra time and money will be as
biggest investment you’ll nothing when you’re buying an Jargon-buster
make in your life – and like £150,000 boat that might take six
buying a house, there are certain months to build. 9JJ1K_\9fXkJX]\kp
safeguards you should take to protect These points are for people buying JZ_\d\#Xc`kkc\c`b\
yourself. a new, fully-fitted boat. You will need k_\DfK%Fgk`feXc#Ylk
Boat purchases can go wrong on to take different precautions if you’re ^ff[giXZk`Z\#]fie\n
occasion, just as with any comparable buying a second-hand boat, a share YfXkj%:fdglcjfip
purchase like an overseas holiday in a boat, or (of course) fitting out a ]fiXccYfXkjfm\i]fli
home, a house extension or a sea- sailaway or shell yourself. If you are p\Xijfc[%
going craft. But although house- buying a 100% off-the-peg boat in
?@EfiJ@E1?lccfi
buying advice is easy to come by, one lump sum, the need for staged
J_\cc @[\ek`ÔZXk`fe
boat-buying advice is rarer. To get the payments may of course not arise.
EldY\iÆXeldY\i
full picture, make sure you have all Remember, too: you’re more likely
le`hl\kfpfliYfXk#
the information to hand. Start with: to have a successful purchase if
n_`Z_j_flc[Y\
■ k_\:XeXcI`m\iKiljk you are a good customer. Just as a
\jkXYc`j_\[Xkk_\
ZXcc'*'*'+'+'+'#fim`j`k minority of boat-buyers have horror
jkXikf]k_\Yl`c[%
nnn%ZXeXci`m\ikiljk%fi^%lb&YfXk`e^& stories about unscrupulous builders,
X$YfXk$f]$pfli$fne so will builders occasionally tell you I:;1K_\I\Zi\Xk`feXc:iX]k;`i\Zk`m\#X
■ k_\9i`k`j_DXi`e\=\[\iXk`feËj about the customer who wanted the Zfdglcjfipj\kf]<lifg\XeYfXk$Yl`c[`e^
?fnkf9lpX9fXk]fi:XeXcfi windows moved after the shell was jkXe[Xi[jkfn_`Z_pfliYXi^\dljkY\Yl`ck%
I`m\iZXcc'(./++.**..#fi\$dX`c cut, or who cancelled an order after 9\ZXi\]lcÆ`]pfl\dgcfpk_\j_\cc$Yl`c[\iXe[
gfjkiffd7Yi`k`j_dXi`e\%Zf%lb all the materials had been ordered YfXk$Ôkk\i`e[`m`[lXccp#pfld`^_kY\[\\d\[
■ k_\NXk\inXpjNfic[8eelXc and the workshop booked. A healthy, k_\Êgifa\ZkdXeX^\iË#Xe[Y\Zfd\[`i\Zkcp
ZXcc'()/*.+)0.'#fim`j`k respectful relationship between i\jgfej`Yc\]fik_\I:;[fZld\ekXk`fe%
nnn%nXk\inXpjnfic[%Zfd customer and builder will maximise
your chance of getting the boat you JkX^\[gXpd\ekj1GXp`e^]fi\XZ_gXikf]pfli
Do as much research as possible: want, on time, on budget. YfXkXjk_\nfib`j[fe\#iXk_\ik_Xe^`m`e^X
read magazines, scour the Internet, And most of all – do enjoy buying cXi^\cldgjldlg]ifek%
and buy every book you can. The your boat.

+PFLI>L@;<KFN@;<9<8D9F8K@E>
Buying your boat

Choosing a builder
M`j`kXkc\Xjkfe\YfXkj_fn#Yi`e^`e^pflic`jkf]
i\hl`i\d\ekjn`k_pfl%K_\Cfe[fe9fXkJ_fnAXelXip #
9`id`e^_Xd9fXk:XiXmXeJ_fn=\YilXip #Xe[@N8
EXk`feXc=\jk`mXc8l^ljk Xi\XccgcXZ\jn_\i\pflZXej\\
Dealing with your builder
e\nYXi^\j]fijXc\ :_\Zbk_\plj\k_\jkXe[Xi[9i`k`j_DXi`e\=\[\iXk`fejkX^\[
;iXnlgXj_fikc`jk#`[\Xccpn`k_Xkc\Xjkk_i\\Yl`c[\ij gXpd\ekZfekiXZkfiXmXi`Xk`fe&Xck\ieXk`m\n`k_n_`Z_pflËi\(''

M`j`kk_\pXi[jfi[\Xc\ij_`gj#Xe[d\\kk_\gifgi`\kfijfi _Xggp Æm`\nk_\ZfekiXZkfec`e\Xknnn%Yi`k`j_dXi`e\%Zf%lb
YfXkjXc\jjkX]] 8^i\\k_\[\gfj`kXe[jZ_\[lc\f]jkX^\[gXpd\ekj#\XZ_kfY\
8jb`]fg\e[XpjXi\jkX^\[#Xe[Xkk\e[fe\`]jf dX[\X]k\infib`jZfdgc\k\Xjjg\Z`Ô\[n`k_`ek_\ZfekiXZk ÆY\
:_\Zbk_Xkk_\Yl`c[\i_Xj\og\i`\eZ\f]\m\ipk_`e^pfl nXipf]cXi^\[\gfj`kj#X[mXeZ\gXpd\ekj#Xe[Xep
nXekfepfliYfXk gXpd\ekj`eZXj_
Jg\Xbkffk_\ifne\ij`eZcl[`e^i\Z\ekfe\jXe[k_fj\ 8iiXe^\Xd\\k`e^`ek_\Õ\j_efkfm\ik_\g_fe\ kfZfeÔid
_Xm`e^YfXkjYl`ckXkk_\dfd\ek ÔeXc[\j`^e
@ejg\ZkXkc\Xjkfe\f]k_\`igi\m`fljYfXkj ;iXnlgXÔeXcgcXef]k_\YfXkcXpflk#lj`e^X(]k$jhlXi\^i`[kf
8jbn_fn`ccYl`c[k_\j_\cc`][`]]\i\ek #Xe[jXk`j]p i\dfm\leZ\ikX`ekpXYflkd\Xjli\d\ekj
pflij\c]n`k_k_\`ii\glkXk`feXe[hlXc`kp =`e[flkn_Xk\hl`gd\ekn`ccY\Ôkk\[_\Xk\ij#YXkk\ip
8jbXifle[kfÔe[k_\Yl`c[\iËji\glkXk`feÔe[cfZXc dXeX^\d\ek#\kZ% #Z_\Zbpfli\_Xggpn`k_`k#Xe[jg\Z`]p
YfXkZclYjXknnn%XnZZ%fi^%lb#Xe[kip@ek\ie\k[`jZljj`fe Xck\ieXk`m\j`]efk
]fildj
8^i\\XÔeXcgi`Z\#[\j`^eXe[\oXZkjg\Z`ÔZXk`fen`k_`ek_\
I\j\XiZ_ZfdgXep[\kX`cjlj\N\Y:_\ZbXk ZfekiXZk#`eZcl[`e^dXk\i`XcjkfY\lj\[1dXb`e^Z_Xe^\jcXk\in`cc
nnn%ZfdgXe`\j$_flj\%^fm%lb#Xe[i\X[k_ifl^_fc[
d\Xek_\YfXk`jc\jjc`b\cpkfY\Ôe`j_\[fek`d\fiYl[^\k
dX^Xq`e\jkfj\\_fncfe^k_\pm\Y\\ekiX[`e^
:_\Zbk_Xkk_\Yl`c[\i`ji\^`jk\i\[]fiM8KZXcc 8^i\\\oXZkkiXej]\ijf]fne\ij_`gXe[c\^Xci\cXk`fejÆ]fi
'/+,'('0'''kfm\i`]pXM8Ki\^`jkiXk`feeldY\i \oXdgc\#k_\j_\cc$Yl`c[\ij_flc[Y\XjlY$ZfekiXZkfikfk_\YfXk$
Ôkk\i%@jXepfk_\infibjlY$ZfekiXZk\[6N_Xk`]pfli\Ylp`e^
:fdgXi\gi`Z\jn`k_fk_\ijpflj\\`edX^Xq`e\jXjb`]
`kjdlZ_dfi\#YlkXcjfY\nXip`]`kjdlZ_c\jjÆ^\el`e\ k_ifl^_XYifb\i&[\Xc\i6
Èkff^ff[kfY\kil\É[\XcjXi\]\nXe[]XiY\kn\\e 8^i\\Xi\Xc`jk`ZiXk_\ik_XeXdY`k`fljZfdgc\k`fe[Xk\#
Xccfn`e^]fifm\i$ilej
8iiXe^\ÔeXeZ\ljlXccpn`k_XdXi`e\jg\Z`Xc`jk
Do you need to pay VAT? I\Z\`m\X?lcc@[\ek`ÔZXk`feEldY\i?@E ]fik_\YfXk#Xe[
Z_\Zb`k`jdXib\[fek_\_lcc
@]pflËi\Ylp`e^Xn`[\$Y\XdYfXkkfc`m\fe#pfl :fej`[\i\e^X^`e^Xe`e[\g\e[\ekjlim\pfikfdfe`kfik_\
d`^_k_Xm\Xm\ipgc\XjXekjligi`j\`ejkfi\1pfl
Yl`c[ÆZ_ffj\fe\pflij\c]#iXk_\ik_Xe]fccfn`e^k_\Yl`c[\iËj
dXpefk_Xm\kfgXpM8K%
i\Zfdd\e[Xk`fe^\kXc`jk]ifdk_\PXZ_k9ifb\ij#;\j`^e\ij
@eXlklde)''0#?DI\m\el\:ljkfdjZfeÔid\[
k_Xkc`m\$XYfXi[YXi^\jXi\efcfe^\ijlYa\Zkkf Jlim\pfij8jjfZ`Xk`fefe'(.*'.('+),#finnn%pY[jX%Zf%lb
M8K%K_\\oXZkg_iXj\`jÈ;lkZ_YXi^\jXe[j`d`cXi M`j`ki\^lcXicpk_ifl^_flkk_\Yl`c[#`eZcl[`e^Xkc\Xjkfe\m`j`k
m\jj\cjk_XkXi\[\j`^e\[Xe[jlggc`\[]filj\Xjk_\ ÊaljkgXjj`e^Ën`k_flkXggf`ekd\ek
g\idXe\eki\j`[\eZ\f]k_\Zljkfd\iÉ%
8ck_fl^_k_\^l`[XeZ\[f\jeËkjg\Z`]pn_XkÈj`d`cXi
m\jj\cjÉd`^_kY\#dfjkn`[\$Y\XdYfXkjj_flc[
hlXc`]p%K_\d`e`dldj`q\]fin_Xk?DI:ZXccX
ÊhlXc`]p`e^j_`gË`j(,^ifjjkfej%8^ifjjkfe`j`e]XZk
k_\c\e^k_#Y\XdXe[[\gk_`ed\ki\j dlck`gc`\[ Accepting your new boat
kf^\k_\i#k_\eYp'%(-%K_`jd\Xejk_XkeXiifnYfXkj I\Z\`m\XccI\Zi\Xk`feXc:iX]k;`i\Zk`m\I:; [fZld\ekXk`fe
n`ccefkhlXc`]p#Xj?DI:jXpjk_\[\gk_`jk_XkY\cfn
Xe[Z_\Zb`k]fiZfdgc\k\e\jj
k_\^lenXc\j%
K_\[\Z`j`feZXd\]fccfn`e^X?`^_:flikm`ZkfipYp :fej`[\i^\kk`e^X9fXkJX]\kpJZ_\d\9JJ \oXd`eXk`feXjn\cc
YfXk\i:fc`eJkfe\%;lkZ_YXi^\jn\i\f]k\eÊq\if$iXk\[Ë =fidXccpXZZ\gkk_\YfXk
`ek_\(00'j#Ylk`e)''+#?DI:_X[`jjl\[Xgfc`Zp
jl^^\jk`e^k_XkXZXi^f$ZXiip`e^_fc[nXji\hl`i\[%
K_\e\ngfc`Zpi\m\ij\jk_Xk%K_\i\_XjXcnXpjY\\e
Xe\o\dgk`fe]fiÊ_flj\YfXkjËÆÕfXk`e^jkilZkli\j
[\j`^e\[]filj\Èjfc\cpXjXgcXZ\f]g\idXe\ek
_XY`kXk`feÉ#`eZXgXYc\f]Y\`e^X[Xgk\[]figifglcj`fe% What happens if things go wrong?
8cjfq\if$iXk\[Xi\i\gX`ijXe[dX`ek\eXeZ\kf J\kflkXepZfdgcX`ek`eni`k`e^#YXZb\[lgn`k_i\]\i\eZ\kf
k_\YfXkk_fl^_efkkfk_\[fd\jk`Z\hl`gd\ekXe[ pflifi`^`eXcZfekiXZk#[\jZi`Y`e^n_\i\k_\YfXk_Xj]Xcc\ej_fik
Ôkk`e^j #df[`ÔZXk`feXe[Zfem\ij`fenfib#Xe[Xcc
@eZXj\f]XeI:;[`jglk\#ZfekXZkpflicfZXcKiX[`e^JkXe[Xi[j
gXikjXe[\hl`gd\ek]fik_\gifglcj`fe#eXm`^Xk`fe#
f]ÔZ\#n_`Z_`ji\jgfej`Yc\]fi\e]fiZ`e^`k%:Xj\jZXefecpY\
Zfddle`ZXk`fejXe[jkilZkli\f]k_\YfXk%
K_\]lcc^l`[XeZ\ZXeY\i\X[Xknnn%_diZ%^fm%lbYp Yifl^_kle[\ik_\I:;]fi()dfek_jX]k\igliZ_Xj\
j\XiZ_`e^]fi*/&'0%PfliYl`c[\in`ccY\XnXi\f]M8K @]pfli[`jglk\ZXeËkY\i\jfcm\[`e]fidXccp#Zfej`[\ik_\
`jjl\j#Xe[pflj_flc[[`jZljjk_\d`eX[mXeZ\Y\]fi\ 9D=Ôo\[$Zfjkd\[`Xk`fejZ_\d\ZXcc'(./++.**..#fim`j`k
j`^e`e^XepZfekiXZk% nnn%Yd]%fi^%lb

PFLI>L@;<KFN@;<9<8D9F8K@E>,
C@M@E> afloat
DXb`e^pfli_fd\fek_\nXk\iZXeY\`[pcc`ZÆYlk[feËkY\d`jc\[
Ypk_\efk`fef]XÊnXk\i^pgjpË%N\k\ccpfln_Xkkf\og\Zk%

L
iving on the water is a K?<DFFI@E> the opposite, ‘offside’ bank – or in
seductive notion. To wake Most important of all is the decision marinas or basins. On canals, towpath
up in such a beautiful where to moor your boat. moorings are generally run by the
setting, with nature on your The stereotype of the ‘water gypsy’ navigation authority (usually Canal
doorstep, and the ability to take off on is that you drift along until you find & River Trust); on rivers, most
a whim and cruise downriver… it’s a a spot which you fancy, and then tie online moorings are controlled by the
wonder more of us don’t do it. up there until you decide to move on. adjoining landowner. Marina moorings
But if you’re thinking of moving In reality, all but the most committed are operated by private companies.
onto the water, stay grounded. nomads will need to find a permanent Residential use is not allowed at all
It’s not the right answer for mooring – and one which is explicitly moorings. A marina might have 300
everyone, and it’s not as easy to approved for residential use. berths, only ten of which are available
accomplish as you might think. Moorings are either ‘online’ for residential boats. (This is often a
Let’s look at what’s involved. – either beside the towpath or on condition imposed by the local council.)
Many new marinas have been built
in the last five years, but mostly for
cruising boats on the most touristy
canals. They have released some of
the pressure, but residential moorings
are still rare. In areas like London, this
inevitably means they’re expensive, too.
In practice, this means that you need
C<=K1=`e[`e^ to start looking for a residential mooring
Xjl`kXYc\ early – certainly before your boat is
dffi`e^`j ready. You should recognise that it may
ZilZ`Xc% cost you more, and not be in the exact

-PFLI>L@;<KFN@;<9<8D9F8K@E>
Living afloat

location you want. If you have a job in smaller authorities, such as the Avon domestic unit with a large holding
a fixed place, or kids at school, you may Navigation Trust for the Warwickshire tank beneath. The tank can then be
need to change your arrangements. Avon, the National Trust for the Wey, pumped out at a dedicated location.
What if you really want to keep and the Broads Authority. Cassette toilets are more
moving? On the parts of the network The bigger your boat, the more rudimentary, but easy to empty.
run by CRT (most canals and some expensive the licence. You’ll need Pump-out toilets offer home comforts,
rivers), you can moor in the same third-party insurance as a minimum, but you’ll have to move your
place for 14 days before you need to and contents insurance is highly boat to the pump-out point every
move on. Popular mooring locations advisable. Your boat will need to pass time the tank fills up – not much
will have a shorter time limit. You the Boat Safety Certificate every four fun if the canal is iced up! Many
must then move on (rather than just years. (New boats are initially exempt, residential boaters have one of each.
shuffling between two spots). because they’re already built to the A large water tank can be refilled
This is known as ‘continuous European standards.) at any canalside tap, and most
cruising’, and is the only circumstance If you can’t afford a boat outright, marina berths now have a tap
under which CRT will issue a licence to you will need to consider finance alongside. Electricity may come
a boater without a permanent mooring. carefully. Standard mortgages are from a permanent 240V hookup
It isn’t an alternative to a permanent not available for boats, but specialist at a marina berth, or be generated
mooring, but a distinct lifestyle choice. providers offer marine mortgages. from the engine or a dedicated
If you’re new to boating, you should Residential moorings are generally generator, perhaps with solar panels
get some experience on a hire-boat subject to council tax at the lowest to top up. Bear in mind that washing
– including at the depths of winter! band, though the situation varies from machines and the like can be very
– before deciding whether this is for you. county to county. Unfortunately, this energy-hungry, and you will need to
Moorings are advertised in the doesn’t mean that the council will consider your installation carefully if
classified pages of Waterways World collect your refuse as it does for home- you don’t have 240V at your berth.
every month. CRT lists its own owners – you’ll still need to take it to Telephone and even Internet
vacancies online at www.crtmoorings.com, the waterside rubbish disposal! access is now easily available through
and a handy search option enables you mobiles. Post is more of a challenge,
to look for residential moorings. K?<GI8:K@:8C@K@<J and a definite advantage to marina
There are three questions which berths. Continuous cruisers have
K?<C<>8C@K@<J passers-by always ask of boat-dwellers: it hardest of all, especially because
You’ll need a licence for your boat. “Is this your boat?”, “Do you live on banks and insurers will often
This is issued by the navigation it?”, and “Isn’t it cold in winter?”. insist on a permanent address.
authority who control the waterway on A roaring fire, carefully placed, can If you need to keep a car, consider
which it’s moored, and allows you to heat the boat very effectively. Modern where you’ll park it. Marinas may
keep a boat there (subject to mooring) wide-beam craft and narrowboats have parking spaces, but towpath
and, usually, to cruise the authority’s will often have both a stove and a moorings often don’t, and a glut
other waterways. diesel-fired heater powering a set of of boaters’ cars is a sure-fire
Almost all canals, plus the rivers radiators. You can be as warm tucked way to annoy local residents.
Trent, Severn, Yorkshire Ouse, Lee, up on a well-built, properly maintained Finally, think about space issues.
Stort and Weaver are run by CRT. If boat as you would be in a house. But Wide-beam craft are much more
you’re just using their rivers, you can forget to refuel, or suffer a breakdown, spacious than narrowboats, but they’re
save a bit of money by buying a River- and yes – it can be very, very cold. still smaller than houses or most flats.
Only Licence. (If your boat doesn’t The follow-up question is usually You’ll need to ‘declutter’ your life
move, but is a static ‘houseboat’, you about toilets. You won’t have a before moving afloat – not easy for
should buy a Houseboat Certificate permanent sewage connection, so the hoarders among us. And if you’re
instead, but this still costs the same.) your toilet has to include its own moving with a partner, consider how
The rivers Thames, Great Ouse, tank which you empty. This can your relationship could be affected
Nene and Medway are run by the either be a ‘cassette’ toilet, which by living in such close proximity.
Environment Agency – though its is a small plastic unit to be carted
Thames, Anglian and Medway to the disposal point, or a ‘pump- @J@KI@>?K=FIPFL6
licences are separate. There are a few out’ toilet, which is a standard So is it cheaper to live on a boat? No,
not necessarily – but what’s more
important is that you shouldn’t move
onto a boat if you’re just simply looking
for a cheap place to live. Life afloat
is not like anything else; it’s a distinct
community with its own customs and
traditions. You should understand all the
pros and cons before taking the plunge.
Living on a boat can be immensely
rewarding. You wake up with the birds
and the gentle sound of water lapping
at the hull. At the end of the working
LEFT: day, you slip out of the rat race and
Adequate return to a more civilised world. If you
heating is have the persistence to find a mooring,
essential to and you can cope with emptying the
enjoying life toilet and refuelling the stove, it’s a
great way to live.

PFLI>L@;<KFN@;<9<8D9F8K@E>.
Bluewater Boats

K?<;<K8@CJ
■9cl\nXk\i9fXkj
■.']kYp()]k-`en`[\$Y\Xd
■:`iZX™(-'#'''

K?<
Beautiful Boat
DXibCXe^c\p\ogcfi\jXelckiXfglc\ek]Xd`cpn`[\$Y\Xd¿
89FM<1 CX9\ccX9 was one of the stars of the
@e[lZk`fe_fY Crick Boat Show this year. At 70ft
ilej]ifdX in length, with a 12ft 6in beam, it is
Zfdgi\_\ej`m\ nearing the cruising limit of a wide-
\c\Zki`ZXc beam on Britain’s inland waterways.
jpjk\d%
<OK<I@FI
The substantial steel shell is of
10/6/5/6mm plate; the thicker-than-
normal cabin top supports the wider
cabin roof, without the springiness
that thinner steel sometimes has.
The hull also has a chine in the
underwater hull, which avoids
the “wide-narrowboat” boxiness
that can give poor handling.
The exterior of the boat has a
swept up bow. Around the side of the
hull, substantial wooden topped steel
rubbing strakes give lots of protection
against grazing lock sides, without
having to run around with fenders.

FE;<:B
C<=K1Jdffk_ The foredeck is quite short but
c`e\jn`k_ manages to pack in the hydraulic
jlYjkXek`Xc anchor windlass and a large under
]\e[\i`e^% deck locker. The cabin sides lean

('PFLI>L@;<KFN@;<9<8D9F8K@E>
in, giving additional tumblehome. one, so set into the granite work
Gunwales are wide, flat and covered surface is a Gaggenau induction hob,
in teak. There are folding steps on with matching Gaggenau double
the cabin sides, as well as the forward oven, integrated fridge-freezer and
bulkhead, to enable easy access to the dishwasher. Under the floor in both the
roof. The centre bollards are sensibly galley and the saloon is a large locker,
mounted on the cabin roof edges. capable of storing vacuum cleaners.
A wooden mast carries the horn
and an all-round anchor light, as 9LEB:89@E
well as a pair of very bright LED Moving forward, there is a corridor
work lights, one facing forward, to port; a low cabinet contains fly
another aft. There is another pair screens that can be placed into ABOVE: Victron Quattro inverters can provide
of work lights on the forward edge the opening windows. A fairly up to 16kW peak power, drawing from
of the cabin roof, and another pair large cabin houses two sets of ensuite Rolls 6-volt heavy duty batteries, which
just in front of the wheelhouse. bunk beds, plus two wardrobes. bathroom. can provide 460Ah at 24V. However,
even these substantial batteries can
8=K:F:BG@KN?<<C?FLJ< >L<JK:89@E only provide power for a limited
The full-width aft cockpit has a D8@E98K?IFFD length of time with high-consumption
wraparound seating area, with deep Next there is a guest cabin. An L- appliances like the induction hob
water-resistant upholstery seating eight shaped day settee pulls out at night in the galley. To overcome this, a
people, while secure lockers provide to a good-sized double berth, with 14kVA Vetus generator is installed
a huge amount of storage. The aft a bedside cupboard, wardrobe and in the cavernous engine room, with
cockpit can only be entered from the under-berth storage to give plenty of its own sound insulated cocoon.
wheelhouse, which itself has folding space. The main bathroom follows: a
sides, along with three stable-type large fully enclosed shower sits next to <E>@E<8E;8E:@CC8I@<J
doors, with the forward windscreen a vanity sink on a granite worktop. The In the engine room, in addition to
lowering hydraulically. Along the Sanimarine macerator toilet pumps the generator to port, is the large
back of the wheelhouse is a bench to a large holding tank and a cold- Vetus D66 engine, which is based
seat, while the helm is to port, with water bidet hose is next to the toilet. on a six-cylinder Deutz block. At
a large instrument panel including 170hp, this is quite large for a boat
depth sounder, VHF radio, electronic D8JK<I9<;IFFD this size; however, it enabled a larger
compass and engine controls. The forward master bedroom feels hydraulic pump to be installed.
very private. A dressing table against Although the main propulsion is
>8CC<P8E;J8CFFE the starboard cabin side faces the through a conventional gearbox, with
Stepping down into the cabin is a king-sized double bed, which has a shaft, water lubricated stern tube
revelation. Ahead of you the bulkhead memory foam mattress, and has LED and four-bladed prop, substantial
is covered in dark smoked glass, lights under the lip of the bed. Bedside hydraulic power is needed for the
while a huge cream leather corner cabinets either side give more space. 160kgf bow and stern thrusters.
settee makes a striking visual impact. In the corner, another curved
The white painted ceiling is set off bulkhead accesses the ensuite LE;<IN8P
by thick vertical solid oak T&G facility, which has all the features At the helm, as well as the usual
panels on the cabin side, with oak of the main bathroom, just in a engine instrument panel, there is a
veneered ply on the hull side. The slightly smaller space. As through LCD screen for the engine controls.
light interior has large double-glazed the rest of the boat, the heating This engine has electronic systems,
ash windows and a huge glazed (here, a towel rail) is powered by which feed even more data back to
dog-box over the saloon. Opposite a Kabola pressure-jet boiler. the helm. The throttle and gearbox
the sofa is a large entertainment controls are also electronic, rather
unit; at the push of a switch, a 50in JFG?@JK@:8K<;<C<:KI@:J than using push-pull cables.
TV rises out of the sideboard. To supply all these systems, the boat The steering itself is power-
The galley is set back against the needs its own power station. For assisted, which means that the wheel
aft bulkhead. This boat is a gas-free general cruising, a pair of 8000W is very light; the electronic display
includes a rudder indicator, which
compensates for the lack of feedback
to know when the wheel is centred.
And there’s another steering system:
to the left of the wheel is a joystick.
This is the control that allows you
to move the boat anywhere, almost
like playing a computer game. The
joystick controls the Vetus Pro-
Docker systems and this is the first
boat to have it fitted in the UK.

M<I;@:K
K_`j`jXe`eefmXk`m\ZiX]k#
jlg\iYcpÔkk\[n`k_\m\ip
LEFT: ZfeZ\`mXYc\Xggc`XeZ\%
The master '(0)-/((-00#
bedroom. nnn%Ycl\nXk\iYfXkj%Zf%lb %

PFLI>L@;<KFN@;<9<8D9F8K@E>((
in, giving additional tumblehome. one, so set into the granite work
Gunwales are wide, flat and covered surface is a Gaggenau induction hob,
in teak. There are folding steps on with matching Gaggenau double
the cabin sides, as well as the forward oven, integrated fridge-freezer and
bulkhead, to enable easy access to the dishwasher. Under the floor in both the
roof. The centre bollards are sensibly galley and the saloon is a large locker,
mounted on the cabin roof edges. capable of storing vacuum cleaners.
A wooden mast carries the horn
and an all-round anchor light, as 9LEB:89@E
well as a pair of very bright LED Moving forward, there is a corridor
work lights, one facing forward, to port; a low cabinet contains fly
another aft. There is another pair screens that can be placed into ABOVE: Victron Quattro inverters can provide
of work lights on the forward edge the opening windows. A fairly up to 16kW peak power, drawing from
of the cabin roof, and another pair large cabin houses two sets of ensuite Rolls 6-volt heavy duty batteries, which
just in front of the wheelhouse. bunk beds, plus two wardrobes. bathroom. can provide 460Ah at 24V. However,
even these substantial batteries can
8=K:F:BG@KN?<<C?FLJ< >L<JK:89@E only provide power for a limited
The full-width aft cockpit has a D8@E98K?IFFD length of time with high-consumption
wraparound seating area, with deep Next there is a guest cabin. An L- appliances like the induction hob
water-resistant upholstery seating eight shaped day settee pulls out at night in the galley. To overcome this, a
people, while secure lockers provide to a good-sized double berth, with 14kVA Vetus generator is installed
a huge amount of storage. The aft a bedside cupboard, wardrobe and in the cavernous engine room, with
cockpit can only be entered from the under-berth storage to give plenty of its own sound insulated cocoon.
wheelhouse, which itself has folding space. The main bathroom follows: a
sides, along with three stable-type large fully enclosed shower sits next to <E>@E<8E;8E:@CC8I@<J
doors, with the forward windscreen a vanity sink on a granite worktop. The In the engine room, in addition to
lowering hydraulically. Along the Sanimarine macerator toilet pumps the generator to port, is the large
back of the wheelhouse is a bench to a large holding tank and a cold- Vetus D66 engine, which is based
seat, while the helm is to port, with water bidet hose is next to the toilet. on a six-cylinder Deutz block. At
a large instrument panel including 170hp, this is quite large for a boat
depth sounder, VHF radio, electronic D8JK<I9<;IFFD this size; however, it enabled a larger
compass and engine controls. The forward master bedroom feels hydraulic pump to be installed.
very private. A dressing table against Although the main propulsion is
>8CC<P8E;J8CFFE the starboard cabin side faces the through a conventional gearbox, with
Stepping down into the cabin is a king-sized double bed, which has a shaft, water lubricated stern tube
revelation. Ahead of you the bulkhead memory foam mattress, and has LED and four-bladed prop, substantial
is covered in dark smoked glass, lights under the lip of the bed. Bedside hydraulic power is needed for the
while a huge cream leather corner cabinets either side give more space. 160kgf bow and stern thrusters.
settee makes a striking visual impact. In the corner, another curved
The white painted ceiling is set off bulkhead accesses the ensuite LE;<IN8P
by thick vertical solid oak T&G facility, which has all the features At the helm, as well as the usual
panels on the cabin side, with oak of the main bathroom, just in a engine instrument panel, there is a
veneered ply on the hull side. The slightly smaller space. As through LCD screen for the engine controls.
light interior has large double-glazed the rest of the boat, the heating This engine has electronic systems,
ash windows and a huge glazed (here, a towel rail) is powered by which feed even more data back to
dog-box over the saloon. Opposite a Kabola pressure-jet boiler. the helm. The throttle and gearbox
the sofa is a large entertainment controls are also electronic, rather
unit; at the push of a switch, a 50in JFG?@JK@:8K<;<C<:KI@:J than using push-pull cables.
TV rises out of the sideboard. To supply all these systems, the boat The steering itself is power-
The galley is set back against the needs its own power station. For assisted, which means that the wheel
aft bulkhead. This boat is a gas-free general cruising, a pair of 8000W is very light; the electronic display
includes a rudder indicator, which
compensates for the lack of feedback
to know when the wheel is centred.
And there’s another steering system:
to the left of the wheel is a joystick.
This is the control that allows you
to move the boat anywhere, almost
like playing a computer game. The
joystick controls the Vetus Pro-
Docker systems and this is the first
boat to have it fitted in the UK.

M<I;@:K
K_`j`jXe`eefmXk`m\ZiX]k#
jlg\iYcpÔkk\[n`k_\m\ip
LEFT: ZfeZ\`mXYc\Xggc`XeZ\%
The master '(0)-/((-00#
bedroom. nnn%Ycl\nXk\iYfXkj%Zf%lb %

PFLI>L@;<KFN@;<9<8D9F8K@E>((
K?<;<K8@CJ
■Efik_n`Z_9fXk:fdgXep
■-']kYp()]kn`[\$Y\Xd
■™(,'#'''

B@E>JC<P
CROSSOVER
DXibCXe^c\pcffbjXkXe`ek\i\jk`e^[\j`^en_`Z_ZfdY`e\jX
;lkZ_YXi^\n`k_9i`k`j_jgXZ`flje\jj¿
K_\Efik_n`Z_9fXk:fdgXep has Northwich boats are built in the 89FM<1>i\Xk of Grace and Favour is built in
built over 200 boats since it began in Czech Republic under the watchful eye c`m`e^jgXZ\ 12/6/5/4mm plate. At 60ft by
1994, making it one of Britain’s most of the UK company. We took a look at Zfdgc\k\n`k_ 12ft, it will not pass through
prolific boat-builders. With both wide- the first of these Kingsley class boats, C:;KM% some Yorkshire locks but will fit
beam narrowboat and Dutch barge which provides a permanent home for comfortably in most others on the
designs in their range, Northwich its owners. wide waterways. The 8ft 6in air draft
decided to add a new, ‘hybrid’ build, of the wheelhouse can be reduced
close to a Dutch Barge but with the <OK<I@FI to about 6ft 4in, which should get
spaciousness of a flat-bottomed craft. The immaculately finished shell it under the lower bridges of the
Trent & Mersey where it is based.
The bow is quite sharp, and
although the gunwale is fairly level,
it rises up quickly to meet the bow
in a nod to traditional barge style.
The stern is a square transom,
with a sturdy stainless steel pushpit
which extends forward almost the
full length of the wheelhouse. The
handrails and, more unusually, the
toe rail, are composed of stainless
steel tubing, which goes well with
the modern look of this boat.
The paint scheme is very muted,
but the light colour of the roof will
C<=K1K_\ help keep the boat cool in summer. In
ZXY`ekXb\jlg common with most barge-style boats,
dfjkf]k_\ windows are fitted in the aft cabin
YfXkËjc\e^k_% side, with portholes further forward.

()PFLI>L@;<KFN@;<9<8D9F8K@E>
Northwich Boat Company

N?<<C?FLJ< swallows a large sofa, footstool


<E>@E<IFFD and recliner chair. The light oak
The wheelhouse provides a pleasant, finish contrasts well with the cream
sociable space and is manually painted finish to the cabin sides. Oak
removable. For many waterways it veneered ply sits on the hull side,
will not be necessary to take it down while the Squirrel multifuel stove is
for day-to-day cruising – so check the in a large raised slate hearth, with
bridge heights in the cruising guide! the flue pipe bent to get a good
The engine bay is accessed by two clearance away from the tumblehome
steel hatches. Crawling space access is of the cabin sides. The owners have
provided to the weed hatch and to the fitted a large LCD TV against the
auxiliary systems. The engine is a Beta forward bulkhead, although they
Marine 75hp engine, which should give have also bought a large picture to
ample power for cruising, and has a cover it when they aren’t using it!
large battery charging capacity for the The portholes and windows have
six 110Ah gel batteries (plus two more neat folding shutters: these are
batteries for the 95 Kgf bowthruster). rebated, so that when they’re closed,
A Travelpower 230V alternator is also no chinks of light come through. A
fitted, giving up to 3.5kW of power set of side doors to port in the saloon
for domestic items on board. When give more ventilation; again, these are
the engine is off, a Sterling combined covered with the folding shutters.
2500W inverter/charger takes over the The windows are all double glazed,
job of supporting the mains electricity. including the roof hatches. Behind the
The Webasto diesel central heating linings is a very substantial 85mm of
boiler is also mounted here, which insulation which, combined with the ABOVE: The floor space needed. It extends into
also heats the twin-coil calorifier and solid oak floorings, good number of helm in the the cupboard which contains the
the radiators throughout the boat. radiators and the stove, should keep sociable washer-dryer – a Miele unit, an
the boat toasty warm in cold weather. wheelhouse. upgrade on the standard. The owners
>8CC<P The lighting through the boat is concede that this was expensive,
Entering the boat by the doorway mainly halogen downlighters though but expect it to outlast them!
to port, you arrive in a large galley the owners are considering changing A macerator toilet is fitted, with
with a U-shaped arrangement, and these for LED bulbs as power a large holding tank forward and
a long but thin worktop opposite. consumption is currently quite high. a washbasin on a small cupboard
The galley has solid oak units, with in the corner. Very chunky sliding
a reformed granite worktop. Despite D@;:89@E doors close off the mid cabin and
the presence of a slimline dishwasher, The addition of a mid cabin gives bathroom, which is both practical and
a full size 230V fridge and freezer a flexible space, both for overnight avoids wasting space by having to
hidden behind the cupboard doors, guests and as an office/room to leave clear areas around each door.
there is still lots of storage throughout. escape to. There is enough space
The stainless steel hob is matched for a decent working area with a D8JK<I:89@E
by a large oven and grill underneath. proper office chair, as well as power The head of the bed is under the small
The galley is partly obscured from supplies for laptops and TVs. glazed escape doors, which lead to the
the saloon by a raised section, forward deck. Drawers and cupboard
with a second, higher worktop, 98K?IFFD surround the bed, including a 9ft wide
to act as a breakfast bar – as well A quadrant shower is fitted against set of wardrobes against the loo wall,
as subtly dividing the boat up. one bulkhead. Northwich followed and a small bedside chest of drawers
the owners’ suggestion of bending each side. Underneath the bed is more
J8CFFE the waterproof membrane on one storage, as well as some tank space.
In the saloon, the space for side into a curve, to give more
freestanding furniture comfortably elbow room without adding to the LE;<IN8P
In our experience, wide narrowboats
from Northwich prove relatively
easy to handle once you get used
to them. This barge crossover is
no exception and the owners have
found no difficulty in turning
the boat and handling it.

M<I;@:K
K_\YfXk`jYfk_^ff[mXcl\Xe[
Zfd]fikXYcpÔkk\[%K_\:q\Z_
ZiX]kjd\e_Xm\[fe\X^ff[afY`e
X[Xgk`e^Xe8e^c`Z`j\[m\ij`fef]
Xj\d`$;lkZ_YXi^\%K_\\ok\ieXc
jk\\cnfib`jifYljk#Xe[k_\
LEFT: ZXY`e\kipXYfm\n_Xknflc[Y\
Huge storage \og\Zk\[]fik_`jgi`Z\iXe^\%
space in the '().'.-'(-'#
galley. nnn%efik_n`Z_YfXk%Zfd %

PFLI>L@;<KFN@;<9<8D9F8K@E>(*
K?<;<K8@CJ
■E\n9fXk:fdgXep
■-']kYp()]keXiifnYfXk$
jkpc\n`[\$Y\Xd
■™('.#0',

Emperor King
DXibCXe^c\p\oXd`e\jXgXik`ZlcXicpgiXZk`ZXc#mXcl\$]fi$dfe\pm\jj\c¿
Jk\gg`e^XYfXi[Xn`[\$Y\Xd#
narrowboat-style boat makes you
realise how much more space you
get for your money. The New Boat
Company’s Emperor is the latest
incarnation of its value-for-money craft
which comes packed with everything
you need for life afloat. You can see
why most end up as residential boats,
though they are perfectly capable as
cruising boats in their own right. The
test boat was £107,905, including a
few extras over the £104,950 standard
boat.
useful function. The aft deck itself, KFG1 while being close to the engine and
<OK<I@FI meanwhile, is massive, with a taff 9\Xlk`]lccp Webasto diesel heating system.
The 60ft by 12ft beam boat is rail round the stern that half a dozen Ôe`j_\[^Xcc\p%
built for the New Boat Co by people could probably perch on! 89FM<1Jc\\b >8CC<PJ8CFFE
Collingwood in Liverpool. The eXiifnYfXk Not that space would need to be
outside shows the distinctive roof, FE;<:B cffb`e^c`e\j% saved. The 12ft beam gives you the
which is higher than the handrails. Under the deckboards, the sizeable floor area that would need at least a
This does give even more volume 2.2-litre Canaline 52hp engine looks pair of 70ft narrowboats to match!
to the interior while still being able quite tiny in the engine bay. In here, Down the wide steps into the boat,
to get under bridges. The bow deck you easily have enough space for you have a galley to port, with a
is quite large in volume, but short fitting a generator, storing a couple dining table space to starboard. In the
compared to the length of boat. It of bikes and all the tools you might galley, a stainless steel hob unit is set
does look a little odd, but a longer need. The large calorifier is also in into a very attractive wooden work
deck would not serve any more here, saving space inside the boat, surface, a hard-wearing alternative

(+PFLI>L@;<KFN@;<9<8D9F8K@E>
New Boat Company

to the current fashion for granite.


The deep Belfast sink is much larger
than on most boats, while there is a
huge amount of storage around the
galley and a large fridge. The eye-
level grill and oven has a stainless
steel microwave fitted above.
To starboard, a loose dining table
for four people felt about right,
though a bigger one could easily
be accommodated. Against the aft
bulkhead is a dresser unit, with
drawers, shelves and the electrics
cupboard. A second dresser is
in the saloon, backing onto the
galley bulkhead. The cream effect
T&G roof is an option, and one
probably worth having, along with
the chrome pack, which gives a
sophisticated air to the boat.
The enormous saloon had a three-
seater leather sofa and coffee table
fitted; you could probably add another
two-seater and a chair without it
feeling crowded. A large single white there is a work surface with the ABOVE: A
radiator to starboard is under one optional freezer fitted here, as well fantastic
gunwale. The area under the opposite as space for a washer/dryer and amount of
gunwale is a space crying out to be another cupboard. Remove one of space.
filled with some shelving, which could the cupboard doors, and this would RIGHT: The
add even more flexibility to the space. make a useful desk. The bathroom
Against the forward bulkhead is a itself has a large shower, along with bathroom.
Morsø Squirrel solid fuel stove, set a full-height airing cupboard, lots of
in an enclosed hearth, which meets smaller cupboards, a pump-out toilet
the code of practice. However, the (with a large holding tank) and a
‘chimney’ which contains the flue washbasin set into the counter top.
is open, and has two roof vents as The forward bedroom has a large
well, and I would expect that much walk-round double berth against the
of the heat generated would just go bathroom bulkhead, giving a great view
straight out! This could be solved out through the glazed forward doors.
by boxing in the flue slightly more. Storage is everywhere: three large
That said, with the black tiling and wardrobes, a dressing table, bedside
LED lighting (fitted as standard cabinets and drawers abound. Still, the
throughout the boat), it does look cabin retains a bright and spacious air,
stylish. More cupboards and shelves partly due to the generous headroom. office space, to give a family enough
flank the stove, with useful 230V The boat makes a comfortable space to live and cruise afloat.
sockets all around the saloon. floating apartment for two people.
A second cabin can be fitted (from <E>@E<
98K?IFFD9<;IFFD around £1,450) which could have The standard Canaline engine is more
The bathroom comes next. However, a double berth with wardrobe and than powerful enough: probably the
as the boat is so wide, in the corridor dressing table, or even with bunks and upgraded 70hp would only be needed
if you regularly frequented fast flowing
tidal waters. The engine installation
is quiet even without any sound
insulation fitted. The boat tested had
an optional bow thruster tube, but
without the thruster – allowing the
owner to upgrade in the future without
major surgery to the boat. Underway,
the boat produced little wash and was
easily handled in the marina without
a thruster; the engine having lots of
grunt to move the boat as needed.

M<I;@:K
K_`j`jXgiXZk`ZXcYfXkk_Xk
dXb\jZil`j`e^fii\j`[\ek`Xc
LEFT: j\ej\fek_\n`[\inXk\inXpj%
The master '(-'+/,0*.-#
bedroom. nnn%e\nXe[lj\[YfXk%Zf%lb

PFLI>L@;<KFN@;<9<8D9F8K@E>(,
WIDE LIGHT

:XeXeXcc$gfik_fc\YfXkjk`cc]\\cc`^_k
Xe[X`ip6I`Z_Xi[=X`i_lijkÔe[jflk%%%
K_\g_iXj\ÊXgXikd\ekYfXkËhad wildly from the proportions of the
probably never appeared in Waterways modern narrowboat, though its 60ft
World until ten years ago. Today, length will prevent it from passing
they’re one of the fastest growing the locks of the Yorkshire waterways,
species on our waterways. Spacious, which seems a shame for the sake of
comfortable and contemporary, they just 2ft. Of course, this is not really a
aim to combine the dream of city- boat designed for extended cruising,
centre living with the appeal of the but the flexibility to relocate is part
waterways – at a more affordable price of the appeal of an apartment boat.
than a bricks-and-mortar apartment. The stern is cruiser-style with
One example of this new breed is standard tiller steering and a pillar-
Perula, from Tristar Boats based at mounted single-lever control. Lockers
Redhill Marina at Trent Lock. are provided on either side of the steps
down into the saloon – and yes, this,
<OK<I@FI like so many these days, is a reverse-
Perula’s 10/6/5 shell was built by layout boat. Steps up to the roof are
Soar Valley Steel Boats, formerly of a welcome touch, in the absence of
K?<;<K8@CJ Chesterfield, but now back in the any helping hand from benches.
■Ki`jkXi9fXkj Soar Valley at Redhill. The lines
■-']kYp(']k are fairly typical for a “wide-beam J8CFFE
■™0/#''' narrowboat”, or “fat boat” as they Perula is an all-porthole boat – but
are more unkindly known. Perula is you might not guess it on stepping
10ft wide, which does not depart too into the bright, airy saloon. Four

(-PFLI>L@;<KFN@;<9<8D9F8K@E>
Tristar Boats

factors combine to prevent the boat sized enough for someone who
feeling too dark. Most obviously, the works as a freelance to consider their
walls, ceiling and units are all white. main space. The through corridor is
A generous side-hatch provides a lot slightly offset from the starboard side.
of light when opened, with the reverse This gives the opportunity for extra
layout also giving the option to open shelving and avoids the cramped feel
the rear doors. The saloon and galley of a side corridor. The angles and
are one room, demarcated by eye- corner detailing in these bookshelves
catching Formica-topped units. And give a ’50s aviation feel to the unit,
finally, there is a straight-through chiming with the Formica in the
corridor on the starboard side, which galley. This room could be converted
does give the boat a more open to a second bedroom if required, and
feeling when the doors are left ajar. with that in mind, the bathroom is
The white walls mean there is no situated between the two bedrooms.
need to disguise the radiators, which
are supplied by a Mikuni MX40 98K?IFFD ABOVE: visually breaking the progression
diesel-fired boiler. The owner made The retro styling and sky blue colour The exterior through the boat. Perula does have
a point of calculating the exact return in the bathroom. The enclosed is well bench seating on either side of the
heat loss from the radiators and shower compartment is a real attention proportioned. well deck, but most of the time, we
matching the number to the size of grabber, with a metal-edged, curved- would expect the cruiser stern to be
boat, eventually settling on five. corner entrance. The toilet is a used as the outdoor ‘social space’.
The pine floor is left bare for Dometic vacuum cassette unit, which One welcome innovation here is
free-standing furniture, currently can be pulled out from under the an opening cabinet set into the cabin,
bar-stools and a sofa which again small hand-basin. As is now becoming which contains a Morco Eco-Plus
provides a welcome splash of colour. standard practice, the pumps are easily instant gas water heater. In the 1970s
Pull-out drawers towards the stern accessible by removing small panels. and ’80s, no narrowboat was complete
give unobtrusive storage space. without a Paloma instant water heater
9<;IFFD – but as with gas-fired fridges, the
>8CC<P The full-size fixed double is on the safety-related requirement for such
The boat has an understated retro port side, with the steps and door appliances to be room-sealed has
theme to its design, and this is nowhere to the bow staying to starboard made them almost extinct. Fitting the
more apparent than the galley.The rather than returning to the centre. heater in an exterior cabinet is a clever
work-surface is a sky blue Formica The rounded shelving and sky blue answer to this and the convenience
throughout, with rounded corners and Formica make another appearance of instant hot water on tap is hard to
a swooping edge to divide it from the here. Pull-out storage is provided deny; this is something we wouldn’t
saloon. Beneath the Formica are three under the bed, with gunwale-height be surprised to see in high-end boats.
layers of half-inch birch ply, with each cupboards opposite. One omission
sheet offset from each other to give is any reading lights: though there <E>@E<
strength, screwed and glued together. is an LED in the ceiling directly Propulsion is provided by a Barrus
The appliances are fairly standard above the pillows, a lower-level 50hp Shire-series engine. The
for this level of boat, with a twin oven, light would have been welcome. 10ft beam makes for a much less
five-burner hob, fridge and microwave. cramped ‘engine hole’ than in a
The oven is mounted in a central 9FN narrowboat, with good accessibility
pillar, which looks appealing but does A disadvantage of reverse layouts for maintenance. The PRM-150
leave a dead corner on the port side. is that the bow can become the gearbox connects to a Centaflex
forgotten part of the boat, almost a flexible coupling. Though Perula has
JKL;P ‘back yard’ which remains unused been designed to minimise energy
Perula has initially been fitted out as a most of the time. This is especially consumption, a full six 110Ah
single-bedroom boat with study. The true when, as with Perula, there is domestic batteries are fitted plus a
study is a real home office, generously no window through to the bedroom, starter, with two alternators (160A
and 50A). A Sterling galvanic isolator
should offer some protection against
corrosion. There is no bow-thruster,
but Tristar’s future boats will be
fitted with a tube to keep it open as
an option. The river-capable engine,
cruiser stern and inverter make it
appealing for weekends away and
occasional longer breaks, and the 10ft
beam should be okay on nominally
wide but under-dredged canals.

M<I;@:K
=fik_\gi`Z\#k_`j`jX^ff[
ZfdY`eXk`fef]c`m\$XYfXi[jgXZ\
LEFT: Xe[Zil`j`e^ZiX]kk_Xkn`ccjl`kX
The retro Zflgc\b\\ekfdfm\fekfk_\nXk\i%
designed '.0.-'0.'+)#
galley. nnn%ki`jkXiYfXkj%Zfd

PFLI>L@;<KFN@;<9<8D9F8K@E>(.
Tristar Boats

factors combine to prevent the boat sized enough for someone who
feeling too dark. Most obviously, the works as a freelance to consider their
walls, ceiling and units are all white. main space. The through corridor is
A generous side-hatch provides a lot slightly offset from the starboard side.
of light when opened, with the reverse This gives the opportunity for extra
layout also giving the option to open shelving and avoids the cramped feel
the rear doors. The saloon and galley of a side corridor. The angles and
are one room, demarcated by eye- corner detailing in these bookshelves
catching Formica-topped units. And give a ’50s aviation feel to the unit,
finally, there is a straight-through chiming with the Formica in the
corridor on the starboard side, which galley. This room could be converted
does give the boat a more open to a second bedroom if required, and
feeling when the doors are left ajar. with that in mind, the bathroom is
The white walls mean there is no situated between the two bedrooms.
need to disguise the radiators, which
are supplied by a Mikuni MX40 98K?IFFD ABOVE: visually breaking the progression
diesel-fired boiler. The owner made The retro styling and sky blue colour The exterior through the boat. Perula does have
a point of calculating the exact return in the bathroom. The enclosed is well bench seating on either side of the
heat loss from the radiators and shower compartment is a real attention proportioned. well deck, but most of the time, we
matching the number to the size of grabber, with a metal-edged, curved- would expect the cruiser stern to be
boat, eventually settling on five. corner entrance. The toilet is a used as the outdoor ‘social space’.
The pine floor is left bare for Dometic vacuum cassette unit, which One welcome innovation here is
free-standing furniture, currently can be pulled out from under the an opening cabinet set into the cabin,
bar-stools and a sofa which again small hand-basin. As is now becoming which contains a Morco Eco-Plus
provides a welcome splash of colour. standard practice, the pumps are easily instant gas water heater. In the 1970s
Pull-out drawers towards the stern accessible by removing small panels. and ’80s, no narrowboat was complete
give unobtrusive storage space. without a Paloma instant water heater
9<;IFFD – but as with gas-fired fridges, the
>8CC<P The full-size fixed double is on the safety-related requirement for such
The boat has an understated retro port side, with the steps and door appliances to be room-sealed has
theme to its design, and this is nowhere to the bow staying to starboard made them almost extinct. Fitting the
more apparent than the galley.The rather than returning to the centre. heater in an exterior cabinet is a clever
work-surface is a sky blue Formica The rounded shelving and sky blue answer to this and the convenience
throughout, with rounded corners and Formica make another appearance of instant hot water on tap is hard to
a swooping edge to divide it from the here. Pull-out storage is provided deny; this is something we wouldn’t
saloon. Beneath the Formica are three under the bed, with gunwale-height be surprised to see in high-end boats.
layers of half-inch birch ply, with each cupboards opposite. One omission
sheet offset from each other to give is any reading lights: though there <E>@E<
strength, screwed and glued together. is an LED in the ceiling directly Propulsion is provided by a Barrus
The appliances are fairly standard above the pillows, a lower-level 50hp Shire-series engine. The
for this level of boat, with a twin oven, light would have been welcome. 10ft beam makes for a much less
five-burner hob, fridge and microwave. cramped ‘engine hole’ than in a
The oven is mounted in a central 9FN narrowboat, with good accessibility
pillar, which looks appealing but does A disadvantage of reverse layouts for maintenance. The PRM-150
leave a dead corner on the port side. is that the bow can become the gearbox connects to a Centaflex
forgotten part of the boat, almost a flexible coupling. Though Perula has
JKL;P ‘back yard’ which remains unused been designed to minimise energy
Perula has initially been fitted out as a most of the time. This is especially consumption, a full six 110Ah
single-bedroom boat with study. The true when, as with Perula, there is domestic batteries are fitted plus a
study is a real home office, generously no window through to the bedroom, starter, with two alternators (160A
and 50A). A Sterling galvanic isolator
should offer some protection against
corrosion. There is no bow-thruster,
but Tristar’s future boats will be
fitted with a tube to keep it open as
an option. The river-capable engine,
cruiser stern and inverter make it
appealing for weekends away and
occasional longer breaks, and the 10ft
beam should be okay on nominally
wide but under-dredged canals.

M<I;@:K
=fik_\gi`Z\#k_`j`jX^ff[
ZfdY`eXk`fef]c`m\$XYfXi[jgXZ\
LEFT: Xe[Zil`j`e^ZiX]kk_Xkn`ccjl`kX
The retro Zflgc\b\\ekfdfm\fekfk_\nXk\i%
designed '.0.-'0.'+)#
galley. nnn%ki`jkXiYfXkj%Zfd

PFLI>L@;<KFN@;<9<8D9F8K@E>(.
Burscough Boat Company

RoomyI<J@;<EK@8C
K_\Z\ekiXc
XkkiXZk`fef]Xn`[\$
Y\Xd`jk_\\okiX
jgXZ\%DXibCXe^c\p
cffbjXkXYfXkk_Xk
gifm`[\jXdgc\iffd
]fic`m`e^XÕfXk¿
K_\YfXk$Yl`c[\ijXkCXeZXj_`i\
ZfdgXep9lijZfl^_9fXkj have been
creating boats for over 25 years, and
are particularly proud of the quality K?<;<K8@CJ
of the materials used in the process. ■9lijZfl^_9fXk:f
The company produces a full range ■-']kYp((]kn`[\$Y\Xd
of narrowboats, wide-beam boats and ■™(*'#'''
Dutch barges, and among those that were
exhibited at the 2012 Crick show was
Ansuka II, a 60ft by 11ft wide-beam boat. roof lowers hydraulically as well, ABOVE:
Ansuka II sports a particularly making low bridges on the Continent The well
generous wheelhouse and attractive or UK waters easy to navigate. Down
claret and cream colour scheme. inside the cabin, galley to port has a spacious
Wide side decks and raised handrails comfortable dinette opposite. This saloon.
make moving around the boat easy, should allow four people to comfortably RIGHT: The
with plenty of space for working dine and is a useful extension to the forward
lines in locks and when mooring. galley space. The galley itself has a master cabin.
By only having side-entry doors, large domestic sized fridge with separate
this allows a full-width seat across freezer, plus a washing machine. The
the back of the wheelhouse, thus large lounge has a solid fuel stove
providing a very sociable space. with a glazed corner sideboard against
The handling of the boat should the hull side. The owner has added a plus glazed sidedoors, which both
be easy – as well as sensibly placing pair of two-seater brown leather sofas, let in a good amount of light.
the wheel centrally, the 65hp Vetus which blend well into the attractive The bathroom follows, which has
diesel engine not only drives the finishes, including the wooden floor. a huge shower, as well as the usual
propeller, but also a hydraulic pump A large private double berth amenities, which befit a cruising home.
that supplies power to bow and stern cabin comes off the corridor and is Sensibly the owner has specified a
thrusters. This should make Ansuka II complete with storage and dressing cassette toilet, rather than a pump-out;
handle very easily in confined waters. table/desk, giving plenty of space. the Dometic unit had a large ceramic
The comprehensive electrical system This second bedroom gives any bowl, looking more like a conventional
should also make the boat self-sufficient guests their own privacy and is one loo than other plastic units.
when away from home moorings. advantage of having a wide-beam The master cabin is in the bow,
On Ansuka II, once the wooden side boat. The corridor running to port with lots of storage and, as elsewhere
screens are lowered, the wheelhouse has both large arch-topped windows, in the boat, designer radiators that are
effective and blend in well. Unusually,
there is a solid bulkhead forward,
without windows or doors onto the
foredeck. This makes the cabin feel
very private. As in the rest of the boat,
the white panelling on the ceiling gives
light and space, and the oak panelling
on the sides gives a warm feel to
the interior. A superb boat built to
the owners exacting requirements.

LEFT: Once the M<I;@:K


wooden side Cfkjf]iffd]fic`m`e^XÕfXk#n`k_
screens are Xcc]XZ`c`k`\je\\[\[]fiZfd]fikXYc\
lowered, the Zil`j`e^#n`k_k_\XY`c`kpkf^`m\
wheelhouse ^l\jkjk_\`ifnejgXZ\%
roof lowers '(.'+/0(-.,#
hydraulically nnn%YlijZfl^_YfXkZfdgXep%Zf%lb %

(/PFLI>L@;<KFN@;<9<8D9F8K@E>
N?<I< can you go?
9i`kX`e_Xj_le[i\[jf]d`c\jf]YXi^\nXk\inXpj#
]ifd]Xdflji`m\ijkfj\Zcl[\[ZXeXcj%

A
ll Britain’s navigable rivers River
are open to the barge-owner, Leeds & Ure
from the royal River Thames, Liverpool Ripon
Lancaster Canal River
to the mighty Severn and Trent. There Lancaster Skipton York Derwent
are many canals to help you get from Canal Leeds River
one to another – and which provide Preston Ouse
enjoyable cruising in themselves. Rochdale Hull
C
Each waterway was built to its own Aire &
size: some have slightly narrower Manchester Calder Calder
locks than usual, others have lower L&L & Hebble River
bridges. Often, the locks get smaller Liverpool Wigan Sheffield & River Ancholme
and the bridges lower as you continue South Yorks Trent
upstream – on the Thames, for Lincoln
example, a low bridge at Oxford stops Macclesfield
Sheffield
large boats from cruising upstream. Canal River
Chester
So if space is important to you, it’s Caldon Witham
River Dee Canal River
vital to choose your cruising grounds Nottingham Trent
Stoke Erewash
before getting a boat built to the Canal
Llangollen Trent &
maximum possible size. In particular, Canal Mersey River King’s
the more historic canals may have low Shropshire Canal Burton River
Soar Welland Lynn
bridges and shallow channels. Union Canal
There are four main ‘cruising Leicester Peterboro’
grounds’ for the barge owner: London
Birmingham River
and the South; East Anglia; the Severn Nene
Staffs &
waterways; and the Trent and North.
Worcs Canal " Middle Level
You can’t get from one to another by Warwick N’hampton
canal, because the connecting locks are River
too narrow for barges. But if your boat Worcester
! Braunston # Great River Cam
Ouse Cambridge
is good enough and you have some Stratford
River Bedford
experience, you can make the passage River
Severn Oxford
on coastal waters. Brecon Avon Canal Grand
Union River
Gloucester
8@I<:8C;<IE8M@>8K@FE Oxford
Canal Stort
>ffc\kfC\\[j1*+d`c\j&()cfZbj River
J\cYp:XeXc9iXeZ_Æ River Lee
Befkk`e^c\pkfJ\cYp1()d`c\j&+cfZbj Wye River Regent’s
Cardiff Thames Canal London
NXb\Ô\c[9iXeZ_1.d`c\j&+cfZbj Bristol
This ancient navigation begins with
River
a fascinating set of locks from the Reading Thames
tidal River Ouse into the now greatly River
Bath Kennet & Basingstoke Wey Medway
under-used docks. Of most interest to Avon Canal Canal Guildford
the leisure boater will be the Waterways
Museum & Adventure Centre, close to KEY:
Goole Boathouse where pleasure boats ■:XeXcI`m\iKiljk■<em`ifed\ek8^\eZp■Fk_\iXlk_fi`kp
cluster, away from the more commercial 8EfZfee\Zk`fe8mfeÆ>iXe[Le`fe
area of the docks. 9EfZfee\Zk`fe>iXe[Le`feÆC\`Z\jk\iC`e\
The canal is then wide and deep, but :EfZfee\Zk`fe>iXe[Le`feÆI`m\iE\e\
can also be a bit bleak as it traverses the
flat open landscape. There is, however, the town. Then come the cooling The main A&C continues past more
the anticipation of meeting commercial towers of Ferrybridge to where, sadly, flooded areas, one the infamous St Aiden’s
vessels, and also the junction with the coal is no longer delivered by water. opencast pit, into which the canal disgorged
New Junction Canal and two locks Now following the river, the navigation itself with disastrous results in 1988.
to add interest before Knottingley is is wide as it wends its way through One of the results was the new Lemonroyd
reached. Here the delightfully different various Ings – waterfilled wildlife Lock which replaced two previous locks.
Selby Canal branches off, which for half reserves – to Castleford. Here the Most of the locks show evidence of
its length back to the River Ouse follows Wakefield Section takes you across the enlargement, but this is a completely new
the tortuous meanders of the River Aire. impressive Stanley Ferry aqueducts to build. Soon a spate of factories announce
Knottingley is interestingly industrial, the eponymous town with its restored the approach to Leeds, but the much
and the navigation suddenly and historic warehouses where you join the older industry of Thwaite Mills Industrial
surprisingly narrows as it cuts through Calder & Hebble Navigation. Museum is well worth a visit.

))PFLI>L@;<KFN@;<9<8D9F8K@E>
Where can you go?

The Leeds waterfront has changed years of campaigning and restoration across Breydon Water, which is an
dramatically in recent years, mostly work carried out by the Surrey & invigorating voyage but one requiring
for the better. The Royal Armouries Hampshire Canal Society and the two care and attention to avoid stranding
Museum and other modern county councils, the Basingstoke Canal at low water. It could be said, at
developments bring life to the waterside represents an oasis of calm in the densely least from a canal enthusiast’s point
as it approaches its end-on junction populated south-east corner of England. of view, that the southern rivers are
with the Leeds & Liverpool Canal. Leaving the River Wey at Woodham, the most rewarding, the Waveney
the Basingstoke climbs steadily up to and the Yare being perhaps prettier
I@M<I8MFEN8IBJ the Deepcut flight of locks, where 14 than their northern counterparts; they
K\nb\jYlipkfJkiXk]fi[1 chambers elevate the canal by a further also offer the opportunity to visit
+)d`c\j&(.cfZbj 90ft within the space of a couple of Norwich, Beccles and Lowestoft,
Shakespeare’s Avon is undoubtedly miles. There follows a series of lakes the latter by way of passage across
one of the brightest jewels in the inland - or flashes - before the final lock is Oulton Broad. The former is one
waterway crown. The river drifts reached at Ash. Thereafter, despite the of the finest small cities in the land,
deliciously through a seemingly timeless brooding presence of Aldershot and while Beccles is an unspoilt riverside
landscape, its progress punctuated by a Fleet, the canal succeeds in preserving town teeming with quaint shops and
series of immaculate towns and villages. its mainly rural identity for the intriguing nooks and crannies. Provided
Tewkesbury – a classic English remainder of the journey to its terminus your craft can pass under Beccles
country town – sets the tone for this shortly before Greywell Tunnel. Bridge, then don’t miss the last few
most memorable of river voyages, having Water supply problems and other navigable miles of the Waveney up
recovered remarkably well from the maintenance difficulties have plagued to Geldeston, a sleepily picturesque
catastrophic floods of 2007. Here you join the waterway in recent years but village which perfectly epitomises the
the Avon from the Severn and, passing perseverance is recommended – this is lesser known side of the Broads.
Bredon Hill and 16th century Eckington a surprisingly lovely canal, especially Many narrowboaters have
Bridge, arrive at Pershore, a Georgian at its western end where a visit to the preconceived ideas of Broadland
town of immense charm, best known lovely Georgian town of Odiham can boating, and wouldn’t touch the area
perhaps for its tasty red plums. There provide a fitting climax. with the proverbial barge pole. They
are a wealth of individual shops and don’t know what they’re missing!
restaurants to enjoy, and pleasant moorings K?<9IF8;J
are provided at the recreation ground. The Broads is the accepted term for the :8C;<I?<99C<
Evesham, some 11 miles upstream, boasts self-contained navigational area based E8M@>8K@FE
a fine waterfront and a host of convivial on five rivers: the Ant, Bure, Thurne, NXb\Ô\c[kfJfn\iYp9i`[^\1
pubs and restaurants – once again good Waveney and Yare, plus various )'d`c\j&**cfZbj`eZcl[`e^Õff[$
moorings are provided by the local branches and the Broads themselves. cfZbj
authority close to Workman Bridge. These are a series of shallow lakes which The C&H is part-canal, part-river
Henceforth the river adopts a have resulted from peat extraction in the – originally the River Calder and
somewhat less manicured air, but 13th and 14th centuries. Hebble Brook, though since the old
its loveliness never wavers. Bidford Pleasure boating on the Broads began branch closed into Halifax, it no longer
- weekend playground of West in the last century and this has always uses the latter.
Midlanders - offers excellent moorings been an extremely popular cruising area, It seamlessly joins the wild Pennine
and good facilities and then you’re on attracting, it has to be said, a different countryside of the Rochdale Canal
the final approach to Stratford. To type of clientele from that of the main to the wide horizons of the Aire &
arrive in this internationally renowned waterway network, including many Calder, with branches at Salterhebble
town by boat represents one of the first-time boaters. The Broads should (the stub of the Halifax Branch) and
great inland waterway experiences. not be despised or avoided on that Dewsbury. The Huddersfield Broad
You can moor right at the heart of the account, however, for there are many Canal is little more than a branch to
action, opposite the Royal Shakespeare remote corners to be discovered, as well Huddersfield, where the Narrow Canal
Theatre (currently undergoing major as prolific wildlife and fascinating local begins its climb.
renovation works), whilst the Stratford architecture. The importance of the BELOW: The Few boaters choose the C&H as a
Canal is accessed some 200 yards Broads was officially recognised in 1988 peace and destination, more usually treating it as a
upstream. There are super shops, plush when the area was designated as the quiet of the transit to be endured on the way to the
restaurants, cosy tearooms, museums, marine equivalent of a national park. Broads. Pennines. In truth, some of the scenery
open top bus trips, the list goes on and In essence, the northern rivers (Ant,
on. Enjoy your time in Stratford! Bure and Thurne) are by far the busiest,
The Avon, meanwhile, is navigable for and indeed Wroxham, Horning and
a further three miles or so up to Alveston. Potter Heigham can resemble Skegness
In the early 1980s plans were published and Rhyl in the height of summer. But
advocating extension of the navigable even on the northern section there are
section up to Warwick, some ten miles plenty of places to escape the crowds,
distant, where a link could be made and to cruise (or, even better, sail)
with the Grand Union Canal. Wealthy gently across Hickling Broad on a
riparian landowners wasted no time in warm summer’s evening beneath a vast
blowing the whistle on these plans and a Norfolk sky is a memorable experience.
potentially exciting project was stillborn. Horsey Mere and Martham Broad are
similarly remote outposts, and from the
98J@E>JKFB<:8E8C latter it is an enjoyable walk to the beach
Nff[_XdAleZk`fekf>i\pn\cc1 at Winterton.
)0d`c\j&)0cfZbj To cross from the Northern Broads
Finally reopened in 1991 following to the Southern requires passage

PFLI>L@;<KFN@;<9<8D9F8K@E>)*
here is very attractive in itself, and the =FJJ;PB<:8E8C The main line from London to
upstream canal section from Brighouse I@M<IN@K?8D Birmingham, this is one of the great
to Sowerby Bridge is most appealing. Kfibj\pkf9fjkfe1+*d`c\j&*cfZbj trunk routes of Britain’s waterway
The locks are broad (14ft) but short N`k_XdEXm`^XYc\;iX`ej1 system. It was enlarged throughout to
(57ft 6in). Boaters with 60ft craft do +)d`c\j&)cfZbj barge width in the 1930s, deepened
occasionally attempt passage, but it The Fossdyke Canal runs from the River and rebuilt.
requires great patience to align the Trent at Torksey through somewhat The job was never quite finished,
boat diagonally in the lock, and is only flat, featureless scenery to Lincoln, so few barges continue as far north
recommended for the experienced. from where the River Witham may be as Birmingham. But certainly the
Several locks still require use of a navigated to Boston and thus the Wash. southern sections are a fine barge
traditional ‘handspike’ – a long piece The Witham Navigable Drains offer canal and you will see numerous wide-
of three-by-two wood – to raise the a further 40 or so miles of navigable beam craft here.
paddles. The locks are full of interest, waterways traversing an archetypal - and Originally built as the Grand Junction
from basic flood-locks where the canal eerily remote - Fenland landscape. Canal, it still bears that heritage today
cuts join the river (at most times you Admittedly not everyone’s cup of tea, with pumping stations, canalside
can breeze straight through) to the and far removed from the mainstream workshops, carefully engineered
attractive spot of Salterhebble. Here boating areas of the Midlands, there reservoirs and flights of well-kept locks;
there’s a rare guillotine-gated lock and is nevertheless much to enjoy on both and the countryside will surprise anyone
the site of an old two-rise staircase. the Fossdyke Canal and the River who – only seen it from the confines
Witham. Aside from the opportunity of of the M1. Nowhere is this heritage
:?<CD<I9C8:BN8K<I visiting Lincoln - Brayford Pool, historic more apparent than the famous canal
E8M@>8K@FE cathedral, excellent shopping etc - and village of Stoke Bruerne, just short of
?\pYi`[^\9Xj`eDXc[fe kf Boston by boat, the principal appeal Northampton. The Grand Union is
:_\cdj]fi[1 of these waters probably lies in their effectively the main street here, with the
(+d`c\j&()cfZbj astonishingly remote nature: away from pub on one side, the canal museum on
Now operated by Essex Waterways the madding crowd etc. You won’t be the other, and little cottages all around.
Ltd (a subsidiary company of the queueing for locks on these waterways! Between Stoke Bruerne and
Inland Waterways Association), the Braunston, another famous canal
Chelmer & Blackwater Navigation >CFL:<JK<I village, there are two major tunnels too
is a comparatively little known but J?8IGE<JJ:8E8C narrow for barges to pass other boats,
immensely enjoyable waterway. Far >cflZ\jk\ikfJ_Xige\jj1 so you will need to pre-book passage
removed from the helter skelter of (-d`c\j&'cfZbj with Canal & River Trust. Dimensions
‘estuary Essex’, it offers delightful The Gloucester & Sharpness Canal is are occasionally restricted past
cruising for private and hire surprisingly little used. Only a relatively Braunston but there is still some fine
boaters alike. Furthermore, since its few miles removed from the popular cruising towards Warwick. This section
takeover by new owners, standards Avon Ring cruising circuit, the G&S was rebuilt in the 1930s with strangely
of maintenance have improved attracts relatively few pleasure boaters to charming concrete bridges and what
immeasurably and a wider range of its charming waters - which is a shame, must have seemed futuristic lock-gear.
facilities are available. for a wealth of interest and some lovely Because the southern sections are
Heybridge Basin is one of those scenery are packed into its short length. within easy reach of London, with
places – like Glasson Basin in Once Gloucester’s fascinating the West Coast railway offering fast
Lancashire – where salt water and docks but somewhat dreary suburbs commuting, residential moorings are in
fresh meet. There’s a mingling of have been left astern, the waterway short supply here.
sailing craft and narrowboats, of traverses a gloriously remote landscape
yachties and canallers. It’s a gloriously beside the broad waters of the River I@M<I>I<8KFLJ<
unspoilt, atmospheric location, and a Severn, with far ranging views across KI@9LK8I@<J
handful of good pubs serve to make a to the Forest of Dean. Numerous B`e^jCpeeÆ<cpÆJk@m\jÆ
visit even more enjoyable. highlights vie for your attention: pretty ?lek`e^[feÆ9\[]fi[
The historic town of Maldon Saul Junction; the immaculately kept Efe$k`[Xci`m\i1.)d`c\j&(-cfZbj
is carefully skirted and then the swing-bridges (all manned); the world I`m\i:Xdkf:XdYi`[^\1
waterway charts a lonely course renowned Slimbridge Wildfowl Centre, (+%,d`c\j&*cfZbj
through the Essex countryside, its established by Sir Peter Scott on the This fine river into Cambridgeshire
route punctuated by regular locks but marshes between the canal and the and Bedfordshire has a fantastic
few signs of civilisation. The banks Severn; and divine Frampton-on-Severn, variety of scenery and a host of
are lined in many places with willow one of the most attractive villages in delightful riverside towns and villages.
trees, the wood from which is still Gloucestershire, with its huge village Several smaller rivers form tributaries:
used to make cricket bats. Villages, green and cluster of pretty pubs. The the best known is the River Cam
like Little Baddow and Woodham canal concludes its journey to the Severn to Cambridge, where numerous
Walter, are set well back from the Estuary at Sharpness Docks, where residential barges are moored.
navigation but repay exploration. moorings are provided for pleasure craft The Great Ouse is navigable up
Eventually tiring of the rural idyll, and you can linger awhile watching, if to Kempston Mill, a couple of miles
the C&BN runs alongside the busy you’re lucky, a coaster or two arriving above Bedford. The county town is not
A12 before terminating at Springfield from some far corner of the globe. a major tourist mecca but it certainly
Basin on the outskirts of Chelmsford. turns its best face to the river and a
It would provide a fitting finale to >I8E;LE@FE:8E8C short stay here is enjoyable enough. But
the route if the waterway could be 9i\ek]fi[ÆLoYi`[^\ÆNXk]fi[ the prime attractions are to be found
extended into the town centre, but Æ9\ib_Xdjk\[ÆD`ckfeB\pe\jÆ downstream, as the river flows through
plans to achieve that objective have 9iXlejkfeÆNXin`ZbÆ9`id`e^_Xd an understated but delightful landscape.
so far made little progress. (*,d`c\j&(,'cfZbj Picturesque villages and elegant market

)+PFLI>L@;<KFN@;<9<8D9F8K@E>
Where can you go?

towns provide frequent distractions: a low lying landscape of water put the attractions on a par with those
Hemingford Grey, Houghton, meadows and marshland. Features of Bath), including the mighty SS
Godmanchester, St Neots, Huntingdon of interest come along thick and Great Britain, located in the Floating
and, best of all, St Ives, with its 15th fast, including Aldermaston Wharf Harbour. Don’t miss the Clifton
century arched bridge complete with with its visitor centre. Plentiful Suspension Bridge either, together with
tiny chapel. locks and a host of swing bridges its informative visitor centre.
At Earith the tidal New Bedford serve to exercise the crew.
River heads off, straight as an arrow, Newbury is a thoroughly welcoming C<<JKFIKE8M@>8K@FE
to the north-east but most boaters town, full of fine shops, restaurants and C`d\_flj\9Xj`ekf?\ik]fi[1
continue along the winding Old West wine bars situated conveniently close to ).d`c\j&(0cfZbj
River to Popes Corner, confluence with the canal. Hungerford – though smaller I`m\iJkfik#=\`c[\ËjCfZbkf
the River Cam. Henceforth the Great – is equally attractive, with tea shops, 9`j_fgËjJkfik]fi[1
Ouse continues through typical Fenland pubs and antique outlets galore. (+d`c\j&(,cfZbj
scenery, passing Ely and Littleport, to But however much you may have These two rivers to the east of London
Denver Sluice and thus a link with the enjoyed the journey thus far, the are always considered as a single entity
Middle Level Navigations. But don’t best of the K&A is just beginning and offer some interesting cruising
rush too much, for Ely and Littleport as you cross the county border into possibilities in an area less visited
both repay leisurely exploration. The Wiltshire. Little and Great Bedwyn are than many, despite their proximity
former is a fascinating little city, with delightful canalside villages set amid to such a huge population. That it
numerous quaint shops and tearooms the gentle hills of East Wiltshire. Then is an area where open countryside is
and an attractive waterfront; plus, of comes Crofton Pumphouse, open scarce has resulted in its designation
course, its magnificent cathedral, which to the public daily in season – steam as the Lee Valley Regional Park.
dominates the Fens for miles around. weekends are held from time to time. Starting in London’s East End,
After Denver Sluice, the Great Ouse Perhaps the finest section of all lies most boaters access the rivers from
is tidal to Kings Lynn and the Wash. between Pewsey and Devizes, as the Limehouse Basin and Limehouse
A connection is available to the Nene canal traces a delightful course through Cut rather than directly from the
from Salters Lode, near Denver, via the Vale of Pewsey, overlooked by the tidal river opposite the O2 Arena.
the Middle Level. Locks are of varying chalky Marlborough Downs. And the The lower section of the Lee was
sizes, and as a general rule, are wider Long Pound – all 15 miles of it – gives be in the spotlight this summer with
downstream; the restrictive 10ft 4in limit the boater the chance to relax and the London Olympics taking place
applies to boats seeking to reach Bedford. enjoy it to the full. beside its banks, and many cosmetic
The famous Devizes lock flight lowers improvements were made to the
B<EE<K8MFEE8M@>8K@FE the canal 237 feet into the Avon Valley waterway ahead of the event.
I\X[`e^kf9i`jkfc1 – a fabulous feat of engineering set amid As the Lee heads northwards,
0*d`c\j&('+cfZbj fabulous countryside. Bradford-on- through Hackney, Tottenham and
It’s impossible to overstate the appeal Avon is followed by two fine aqueducts: Enfield, the pressure of the industrial
of this wonderful coast-to-coast Avoncliff and Dundas. And so to Bath areas to the west are not helped by
waterway. Reopened throughout in – quite simply the most beautiful city the many reservoirs to the east, for
1990, the K&A passes through some in the UK. Any visitor to this Georgian the boater’s view is often only of their
of the finest scenery - and elegant treasure trove is lucky, those who arrive vast embankments. Around Waltham
market towns - that central southern by canal boat are luckiest of all. Enjoy Abbey, an historic town well deserving
England has to offer. the Roman Baths, the Abbey, Pulteney of a visit, true countryside begins as
Bustling Reading - at the River Bridge, Georgian crescents, tea shops the river passes a series of flooded
Kennet’s confluence with the and fine restaurants etc etc. gravel pits, skirting around Hoddesdon,
Thames - gives little indication of the Thereafter, several miles of past the confluence with the Stort,
delights to come further west. Soon, pleasurable cruising on the River Avon then through Ware to its terminus at
however, the K&A establishes itself are on the agenda before your arrival in Hertford.
as a rural waterway par excellence. the ancient seaport of Bristol. There’s The Stort is an altogether more
Part canal, part river, it traverses much to enjoy here too (some even attractive river, and fortunately twice as
long as the Lee above their confluence.
It winds its tortuous way past attractive
towns and ancient mills, through
Harlow and Sawbridgeworth to
Bishop’s Stortford, and amply justifies
the passage through some of the less
appealing areas of East London.

C<<;JC@M<IGFFC:8E8C
C`m\igffcÆN`^XeÆ9cXZbYlieÆ
9liec\pÆJb`gkfeÆ9`e^c\pÆC\\[j
().d`c\j&0*cfZbj
The longest single canal in the country,
the Leeds & Liverpool links the wide
waterways of Yorkshire with those
LEFT: of Lancashire and the River Mersey
Aldermaston – and has recently been ‘extended’ by
Lock on the the construction of the Liverpool Link,
Kennet & allowing boaters access to the very heart
Avon Canal. of the city.

PFLI>L@;<KFN@;<9<8D9F8K@E>),
The canal was built for a local on most of these drains, and turning
form of freight-carrying barge called space is restricted at the furthest-flung
the ‘short boat’, and wide-beam craft corners.
are still well suited to this waterway.
Frequent locks and swing-bridges do, I@M<IE<E<
however, mean that your crew should Efik_Xdgkfekf;f^$`e$X$;flYc\k
be fairly agile. G\k\iYfifl^_ 1
The highest reaches of the canal, -)%,d`c\j&*/cfZbj
around Skipton, are twixt Pennines The Nene is an astonishingly lovely
and Yorkshire Dales and have suitably river; and unspoilt and uncrowded too,
magnificent scenery. The famous many boaters being put off, it would
‘Marton Pool’ section is truly the appear, by the 38 locks to be tackled
most dramatic section of upland canal within its 62 miles. However, most of
anywhere in the UK, as it twists and the once-feared guillotine gates have
turns back on itself across awe-inspiring been electrified so there’s no excuse for
moorland. Industrial Lancashire’s staying away!
conurbations are less immediately Northampton is a distinguished 89FM<1Hl`\k river past a series of delightful villages
appealing but have a certain raw appeal. county town which certainly repays Zil`j`e^fe and stately houses only marred by poor
Finally, in Liverpool, Stanley Dock exploration, but the river’s prime k_\E\e\% mooring facilities.
Locks drop boats down into the old attractions lie downstream, as it flows
docks and boaters pass in front of the through rural England at its best: a I<><EKËJ:8E8C
Three Graces to moor in the splendidly timeless landscape of watermeadows, ?Xp\j$>i\\e]fi[$GX[[`e^kfe$
located Salthouse Dock, close to the weathered mills and quaint villages, :Xd[\e$@jc`e^kfe$?XZbe\p
famous Albert Dock and the new most set well back from the river $C`d\_flj\
shopping city of Liverpool One. because of the threat of flooding. )(d`c\j&(*cfZbj
Thrapston and Wadenhoe are The famous Regent’s Canal and Grand
I@M<ID<;N8P pleasant places to linger, before you Union Paddington Arm together form
J_\\ie\jjkfKfeYi`[^\1 come to Oundle, a delectable stone- an east-west route through London,
(0d`c\j&('cfZbjefek`[Xcj\Zk`fe built town, famous for its public school. from the Hayes/Southall area on the
Way back in the mists of time, the Further downstream is Fotheringay, Grand Union Main Line to Limehouse
Medway boasted several hire bases and forever associated with Mary Queen on the Thames. (From Southall to
was relatively popular with pleasure of Scots (she was imprisoned here Paddington it’s the Grand Union
boaters. Not so today, for its waters and executed in 1587) and boasting Paddington Arm; from Paddington to
are relatively quiet for most of the year a wonderful riverside church. Many Limehouse, the Regent’s Canal.)
– although the Environment Agency regard this as the most beautiful village This route is particularly popular
has recently installed additional facilities on the inland waterway network and with residential barge owners, and
for boaters in an attempt to promote you can moor virtually within the at the classic canal location of Little
additional use of the river. And it’s shadow of the historic church. Venice, near Paddington, you’ll see
certainly well worth making the effort More Fenland scenery is on the a beautiful collection of boats large
to see something of this delightful river agenda as the river approaches and small. Residential moorings are
– not least because the EA has also Peterborough, a thriving city with a fine keenly sought after, and consequently
improved the range of amenities in an waterside promenade equipped with all these are the most expensive inland
attempt to attract more boaters. necessary facilities for boaters. Passing moorings anywhere in Britain; and just
Allington Lock marks the beginning the entrance to Stanground Lock – as with the rest of the London housing
of the non-tidal section. Just upstream which gives access to the Middle Level market, you’ll need to be quick to snap
lies Maidstone – Kent’s bustling county Navigations - the river flows as straight up one of these sought-after berths.
town – but thereafter it’s a rural theme as a die for a further five miles to the Most moorings are ‘online’ (on the
as the river threads its way through sluice and lock at Dog-in-a-Doublet. canal itself) but some former freight
the Garden of England, with lovely basins have been converted for mooring
scenery everywhere you look. There are I@M<IFLJ< purposes.
a number of beautiful medieval bridges, ?ldY\iÆ>ffc\ÆPfibÆ The lock-free Paddington Arm can
attractive villages – notably East 9fifl^_Yi`[^\ÆI`gfe seem a little down-at-heel with its
Farleigh – and timeless water meadows **d`c\jefe$k`[Xc`eZcl[`e^I`m\i unglamorous suburban surroundings.
to enjoy before the head of navigation Li\Xe[I`gfe:XeXc #.cfZbj But Little Venice is a hugely desirable
is reached at Tonbridge. It’s a pleasant *.d`c\jk`[Xc address, while Paddington Basin is
town with good pubs and restaurants Not to be confused with East Anglia’s all modern architecture and gleaming
and well worthy of exploration before River Great Ouse, the Yorkshire Ouse offices. After ducking under the
returning downstream. is the river around which York itself Edgware Road in a tunnel, the canal
was built, and extends via the Ure and emerges by Regent’s Park to form the
D@;;C<C<M<CE8M@>8K@FEJ Ripon Canal to the picturesque city of northern boundary of London Zoo – so
DXiZ_Xe[k_\=\ej Ripon. The very intrepid (or those with you can take a gander at the animals as
The Middle Level offers a link between full length boats) will enter at Trent you pass!
the Great Ouse and the Nene. Be Falls, the slightly less intrepid at Goole, Camden Lock and the canalside
sure to visit March, Ramsey and the but the safest and simplest route is via market need no introduction, and
twin ‘Dutch style’ villages of Upwell Selby from where, provided you get the the towpath is always thronged here.
and Outwell. This is remote and tides right, it is a relatively easy run to The St Pancras area has long been
adventurous cruising, with vast Fenland Naburn and non-tidal water. home to a friendly boat club, and the
skies, unpolluted air and charming This is generally a quiet and unspoilt area is being spruced up with new
towns and villages. Mooring is limited river navigation, gently meandering developments such as the Eurostar

)-PFLI>L@;<KFN@;<9<8D9F8K@E>
Where can you go?

station and the Guardian’s new changed from its commercial days, population of fibreglass cruisers will
canalside offices; Islington has London’s and the Pennines are ever-present until reassure you. From here, you can cruise
own canal museum and good pubs. the Sowerby Bridge terminus, where it this wide, lightly locked river down to
Recent work has seen the area around gives way to the Calder & Hebble. The Gloucester, where the Gloucester &
Victoria Park improved for canal users, 92 broad locks, all built to the same Sharpness (Ship) Canal takes up the
and the journey through Mile End to rise, are exercise enough in themselves, story.
Limehouse Basin is always pleasant. but if you have any calories left to burn, The river has a tendency to distribute
Limehouse itself is a thriving centre this is ideal hiking country. the rains of Wales over the farmland
of boating with extensive moorings in The western side, as the canal of Worcestershire, so the banks can be
what used to be the Regent’s Canal descends to Manchester, is like high and the views restricted. But the
Dock. The lock here gives access to the curate’s egg: good in parts. scenery has occasional highs – steep
the tidal Thames, while canals head Littleborough continues the theme of gorges and wooded slopes – and much
north to the River Lee navigation. the eastern side, and the newly repaired of the appeal of the Severn is what’s on
Other moorings are available nearby in Irk Aqueduct is a delightful spot. But the banks: the historic cathedral cities of
Docklands at locations such as Poplar Rochdale itself has yet to appreciate Gloucester and Worcester, the market
Dock Marina. its canal, and the Manchester sprawl towns of Tewkesbury and Upton,
Prospective barge-buyers looking is no better. Canal & River Trust staff the frequent riverside pubs with good
to set up a liveaboard mooring on the will assist you through the locks here moorings. (From the Angel at Stourport
Regent’s Canal should be warned that (booking required). to the Boat at Ashleworth Quay, the
these are rarer than hen’s teeth, and The canal looks up (literally) past the pubs of the Severn are a match for any
much more expensive. It’s undeniable, imposing mills of Ancoats, to end on a waterway in Britain.)
though, that this is one of the most high with the Rochdale Nine – a final The locks are operated for you: all
civilised ways of being a London flight burrowing past the back-streets you need to do is wait for the green
resident. of Manchester. Part of the Cheshire light. If you have a powerful enough
Ring, and so never officially closed to engine, you’ll find the miles just drop
IF:?;8C<:8E8C navigation, it emerges blinking in the away as you make your way along the
Jfn\iYp9i`[^\kfDXeZ_\jk\i1 sunlight at the Bridgewater Canal’s river. Be careful after rain, though.
**d`c\j&0)cfZbj basin of Castlefields. The Severn can swell at the slightest
This is a breathtakingly beautiful canal: Like other newly restored canals, the provocation and you’re best to stay
not an easy one, and not without its Rochdale is as yet light in facilities and moored up until it subsides.
problems, but with a raw, natural still arguably under-maintained; but
appeal. if you have the stamina, it’ll repay in J?<==@<C;JFLK?
Unlike the nearby Huddersfield spades. PFIBJ?@I<E8M@>8K@FE
Narrow Canal, restored at a similar B\X[YpkfJ_\]Ô\c[1+*d`c\j&)/
time, the Rochdale goes over, not I@M<IJ<M<IE cfZbj2E\nAleZk`fe:XeXc 
under, the Pennines. The parallel >cflZ\jk\ikfJkfligfik1 9iXdn`k_AleZk`fekfN\ek
railway dives into a tunnel; the nearby +)d`c\j&,cfZbj AleZk`fe1,%,d`c\j&(cfZb
village is called Summit; old quarries Boaters emerging onto the mighty This commercial waterway offers huge
are dotted all around; but the Rochdale Severn from the bucolic Avon at contrasts to the leisure boater: from
twists, turns and climbs as it surmounts Tewkesbury might be tempted to small barge locks not long enough for
one of the greatest geographical misquote Crocodile Dundee. “That’s a full-length narrowboat to the most
challenges of the canal age. It’s one of not a river – this is a river!” modern series of locks built by Canal &
the most memorable experiences on the The Severn is Britain’s longest River Trust; and from former sites of
network. river, though the upper reaches are heavy industry to splendid countryside.
The descent to Yorkshire is a off-limits to boats: the rapids of Wales It begins at Keadby where the barge-
pleasure, too, through friendly little (where they call it Afon Hafren), sized Stainforth & Keadby Canal leaves
towns such as Todmorden and the Shrewsbury and Ironbridge. But once the tidal Trent. In the shadow of the
surprisingly bohemian Hebden Bridge. you reach Stourport, the cruising new gas-fired power station, the unique
The canalside architecture is little starts in earnest, as a strong resident sliding railway bridge releases boaters
onto the long straight to the former ship-
building town of Thorne. The canal then
follows the River Don to the junction
with the New Junction Canal, which
offers a link north to the Aire & Calder.
The SSYN now adopts a more
twisting course as it follows the Don
closely through Doncaster, above where
it uses the river channel itself, along its
surprisingly attractive valley through
Sprotbrough and Conisbrough, with
its hilltop castle, well worth the climb.
Industry returns around Swinton, along
with the long-established Waddington’s
boatyard at the junction with the
erstwhile Dearne & Dove Canal. The
modernised locks continue through to
LEFT: Moored Rotherham, but beyond here the original
up on the barge locks are retained for the intensive
Rochdale. climb up to Sheffield. En route you pass

PFLI>L@;<KFN@;<9<8D9F8K@E>).
Where can you go?

beneath the M1’s Tinsley Viaduct with boats (including those of Salter Bros
Meadowside Shopping Centre close – Thames operators for over 100 years)
by, and the Don Valley Stadium. At down to punts and dinghies. The
the canal’s terminus, the restored basin, scenery is never less than gorgeous, and
with its imposing warehouses, makes a the roll call of riverside towns makes
fitting destination and a good mooring impressive reading: Kingston, Hampton
for the city. (with its palace, park and maze),
Sunbury, Windsor and Maidenhead
I@M<IJF8I are just some of the ports of call on
C\`Z\jk\iÆCfl^_Yfifl^_ÆKi\ek the lower reaches. A feature of the
)-d`c\j&(-cfZbj river is its admirably maintained locks
This tributary of the Trent could be with their colourful and well tended
Britain’s most under-rated cruising river. gardens – and what’s more the locks
It is navigable downstream from are normally worked for you, making
Leicester to Trent Lock, on the for an especially relaxing holiday.
Trent near Nottingham. The Soar Selecting the most beautiful section
is innocuous enough at first, slowly of this delectable river is virtually
disentangling itself from Leicester’s impossible. But, perhaps the length 89FM<1 At Meadow Lane Lock the river is
suburbs. By the time you reach the between Cliveden and Reading may ;\jZ\e[`e^ rejoined and remains the navigation
villages of Mountsorrel and Barrow, just shade it. Here the waterside ?fcd\CfZbfe all the way to the Humber. It gently
it has taken on a green, unhurried houses are at their grandest, the k_\Ki\ek% meanders, boats passing through
air interspersed now and then by lovely towns of Marlow and Henley several large keeper-operated locks,
deep locks and friendly pubs. After need little introduction and Sonning’s to the delightful historic market
Loughborough, it becomes better still: ancient bridge and village are town of Newark with its dominating
water meadows roll away to the sides, exquisitely charming. waterside castle.
spires are sighted both distantly and But the Thames continues to Cromwell Lock marks the beginning
(at Normanton) right by the river, and enthrall, through Pangbourne, Goring, of the tidal river. This needs careful
you might believe you’re only here on Dorchester and Abingdon. Goring is planning to navigate and to make the
sufferance of the wildfowl. especially enchanting - a riverside village most of the tides, but it is an essential
Leicester itself is a lively, confident of quiet beauty. It was the final home through route to the Fossdyke &
city with much to discover: the most of Sir Arthur ‘Bomber’ Harris - chief of Witham at Torksey, the Chesterfield
authentic market you’ll find in Britain, RAF Bomber command in World War Canal at West Stockwith and the
narrow shopping arcades, and a II – until his death in April 1984. Yorkshire waterways at Keadby.
surprising amount of history from And then there’s Oxford. The En route, the historic town of
Roman times onwards. world famous university city doesn’t Gainsborough, setting for George
Barges and wide-beam narrowboats necessarily turn its best face to the Eliot’s The Mill on the Floss, offers just
are very common sights, particularly Thames (you’ll have to hire a punt about the only mooring opportunity
below Loughborough, and several are and explore the Cherwell for that), but other than the adjoining navigations.
used as house-boats. The Soar remains the reach just above Osney Lock is a
quiet but has a few marinas, including a good place to moor for a few hours and I@M<IN<P
new one at Loughborough. Few people explore all the sights at your leisure. K_Xd\jCfZbN\pYi`[^\ kf
moor in Leicester itself, but the suburbs Above Oxford the character of >f[Xcd`e^1)'d`c\j&(-cfZbj
of Birstall and Thurmaston are pleasant. the river changes, becoming quieter, The River Wey flows unostentatiously
Barge owners can also continue to narrower and altogether more intimate. through Surrey’s stockbroker belt,
Market Harborough via the Grand Some 32 lonely miles (and there are providing an oasis of peace amidst
Union Canal’s Leicester Line - a further those who find this section the best of the helter skelter bustle of the South
24 locks and 24 miles - though this all) take you to Lechlade and the end of East. Never outstandingly lovely, the
stretch is mostly used by narrowboats. a river journey with no equal anywhere river nevertheless boasts a number of
Unfortunately, the connection via in the British Isles. attractive reaches and offers a quiet
Foxton and Watford to the Grand diversion from the River Thames.
Union main line has narrow locks, I@M<IKI<EK Wealthy Weybridge – with more
though the bridges and tunnels are wide. ;\in\ekdflk_kf:ifdn\ccCfZb millionaires per square yard than any
c`d`kf]efek`[Xcj\Zk`fe 1+' other town in England – sets the tone
I@M<IK?8D<J d`c\j&((cfZbj2:ifdn\ccCfZbkf for the entire journey. Nearby Coxes
K\[[`e^kfekfC\Z_cX[\1 B\X[YpCfZbJflk_Pfibj_`i\ Mill – long derelict and reputedly
(),d`c\j&++cfZbj EXm`^Xk`fej 1/+d`c\j&(*cfZbj haunted – now serves as luxury
With all due respect to the waterways Rising in the Stoke area, the Trent flats. Beyond the M25 crossing, the
of the Norfolk Broads, the Thames is overshadowed as a navigation by Basingstoke Canal leaves on its journey
is unquestionably Britain’s premier the Trent & Mersey Canal until it into Hampshire as you proceed south
‘cruising playground’, where pleasure comes into its own at Shardlow. It to Guildford – a relaxed city with a
boating first became popular in soon meets the River Soar and the small town feel and numerous cultural
the 18th century. The river flows Erewash Canal at the site of the 2009 attractions and numerous good pubs
seductively across southern England, National Waterways Festival before and restaurants. Several more miles of
through a rich and varied landscape, its the navigation leaves the river to quiet, well-wooded Surrey countryside
banks lined with the homes of the rich divert through Nottingham on the then accompany you to the limit of
and famous. Teddington marks the Beeston Cut. The city has regenerated navigation at Godalming, where you
lower limit of the non tidal navigation. its waterside and it is now a popular can relax, enjoy a meal out and a little
Travelling upstream you encounter thriving area of clubs, pubs – and the shopping, and then retrace your steps
all manner of craft, from large trip law courts! back to the Thames.

)/PFLI>L@;<KFN@;<9<8D9F8K@E>

You might also like