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Juicy peach-
and-tomato
salad with crispy
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50+ FRESH, EASY RECIPES FOR A COOL SUMMER


C E L E B R AT I N G E V E R Y D AY
E X T R A O R D I N A R Y AT S T E Y N C I T Y
S TA N D S | H O M E S | A PA R T M E N T S
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JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

CONTENTS
DINNER PLANS
Kick-start your best year
ever with these budget-
friendly midweek meals
that are big on veg and
grains. 19
JUICY DETAILS
COVER PHOTOGRAPH MYBURGH DU PLESSIS PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY FOOD ASSISTANT CLAIREELLEN VAN ROOYEN

Summer fruit stars in


Abigail Donnelly’s clever
sweet and savoury dishes,
from mango noodles RAW POWER
to strawberry tart with Outsmart loadshedding
lemon posset. 72 and celebrate the flavours
and textures of summer
STEAM WORK with no-cook dishes by
Clem Pedro’s delicious Khanya Mzongwana. 110
(and feel-good) steamed
recipes are an easy way to THE TEST OF TIME
boost your post-holiday We pay tribute to the
meal planning. 80 legacy of Luke Dale-
Roberts’ iconic restaurant
GRILLED with an exclusive look
Get maximum flavour at his new book, The
from minimal effort with Test Kitchen. 118
Hannah Lewry’s griddled
squid, Mexican pork, TESSA’S TABLE
korma paneer, and then Our pick of recipes
some. 90 from Tessa Kiros’s new
cookbook, Now & Then,
FIRST TO MARKET that will take you to
Discover why Cape Town Greece, Italy and
was a key destination for Mexico. 126
global player Time Out
Market, what it could WALK THIS WAY
do for the food scene, Discover the Overberg
and what you should eat (and its unique food and
when you get there. 100 wine) on the four-night
Diversity Trail. 138

TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 5


OFF THE MENU REGULARS COLUMNS

 Food trends We predict what 8 Editor’s letter 64 TASTES THAT BIND


you’ll be eating and drinking a lot 12 Subscribe to TASTE for R427.50 When it’s dinner for one, Sam
more of this year for six issues (you save 25%), and Woulidge makes herself an easy,
34 On our radar The rise of female you could win a REN hamper cheesy soufflé omelette.
chefs, plus the cooking show we worth R3 500 66 TASTES LIKE MORE
can’t get enough of 14 Sign up to TASTE’s newsletter Storyteller Nabo Binase credits
36 Everything you need to know and you could win Mepal lunchbox her grandmother with laying the
about … almonds gear worth R2 285 foundation for her career in food.
38 Food nerd to follow 16 One lucky TASTE reader will 68 INDIGENOUS GENIUS
Justin Major win a two-night stay for two at A memorable plant-based dish
39 The team loves … plant-based the Cellars-Hohenort Hotel & Spa at an award-winning restaurant
noodles worth R20 000. inspired Mokgadi Itsweng to
144 Follow us on Instagram,
recreate a version at home.
40 Anatomy of a dish The chicken-
and-mushroom casserole at Meraki YouTube and TikTok, or like TASTE
by Charlie Lakin in Hillcrest, KZN on Facebook, to watch Clem Pedro
make his harissa-roasted broccoli.
42 Woolworths food hero
Ready-cut cake slices
44 Cook the cover Juicy peach-
and-tomato salad with crispy
onions
46 Spotlight on Constance Hotels
page page
and Resorts, Mauritius 110 72
50 Wine What (and where) to drink
in 2024 page page
52 Happy hour Savoury cocktails 90 80
54 The Taste case Joseph
Dhafana’s pairings
56 A few words on…
The grape smash
58 Scene Stealer Where to eat
when in Brussels

6 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


5 COLOU RS . 8 B L ADE SHAPES .

Your taste. Your knife.


Your choice of colour.
E D ITOR 'S L ETTER

My year of fruit
“EVERY YEAR, FRUIT I don’t cook savoury dishes with fruit
IS THE MUSE OF OUR very often, unless you count tomatoes
SUMMER KITCHEN.” (which do count, obviously), but I am
I wish I could claim to have said this, especially partial to a fruit dessert. I’d go
but it was actually the very glamorous so far as to say that over the years I have
and prolific author and food writer, perfected the art of the tarte tatin –
Sarah Copeland in an issue of Food & always with apples in winter and
Wine. But, it is true of my kitchen, too. gloriously sweet nectarines in summer.
I am irresistibly drawn to the fruit aisle The classic French upside-down tart
at this time of year – although I do pine - made with just sugar, fruit, sometimes
for the village markets of France – where butter and pastry – is deceptively simple,
I first discovered real coeur de boeuf but I only really hit my stride when I
tomatoes in the town of Cavaillon (we acquired a Le Creuset tarte tatin dish.
call them “exotic”or “heirlooms”) and fell This is the non-negotiable, IMO.
hard for baby marrow blossoms stuffed I have only failed once, when I tried
with goat’s curd and the famously to make a plum tarte tatin to impress
fragrant melons (cantaloupe) for which at a dinner that was also a kind of job
the town is celebrated. interview, I felt. I hadn’t tested plums
I still like to buy sweet orange melons (which give off a lot of juice and need
when they are not quite ripe (I don’t sniff extra chilling time), I was nervous and
them, I’m not Gérard Depardieu. I look also, rushing (my default state). When I
at the ell-by date). Then I leave them on baked the tart an hour or so before
the windowsill to ripen in the sun until leaving for dinner, what was supposed to
I can smell their distinctly floral perfume become the pastry base, once flipped, saying “delicious” (if you know her, you
when I walk into the kitchen in the pulled away from the sides and shrank to know). It makes you want to rush out and
morning. Then they are ready. the size of a saucer. Panicking, I defrosted spend every last cent of your December
On the last holiday before the Cherub more pastry in the microwave (do not try salary on burrata and peaches, because,
joined the world, my sister, brother-in- this at home) and had no choice but to well, it’s summer and it won’t last forever.
law, the Salad Dodger and I went on bake the tart at the host’s home. I was Personally, I can always find a reason
mortified by my ineptitude, this was a to buy the best-quality fruit, or seafood
food job after all, but by some miracle and lamb, or cheese and wine, for that
“When I baked the bestowed by the plum gods, it worked. matter, especially when I am cooking for
tart the pastry And here I am, nine years later, writing family and friends which is what I love
base pulled away my editor’s letter for TASTE. to do on holiday.
and shrank to the At the time of year when everyone Maybe you are still on holiday too right
size of a saucer” worth their artisanal salt has a prediction, now, or maybe you’ve started work, set
mine is that this will be the summer of some goals, or just dropped the kids back
stonefruit tarts, as well as the odd cherry at school with a twinge of happy
clafoutis – a throwback to my first French anticipation for what the year might
a barge trip in Burgundy. On our very holiday – and maybe an Abigail Donnelly bring. Unlike summer – and those perfect
first day, we hit up the market in Louhans pavlova piled high with summer berries blackberries I bought last week – you can
for supplies. We bought baguettes, olives, on top of a vast quantity of whipped hold onto that feeling for longer than you
cheese, peaches and the last of the cream streaked with granadilla pulp. think. And life will be sweeter if you do.
summer strawberries and had a picnic And while we are forecasting, I may
alongside the river Seille, while waiting also attempt to braai some heirloom
to meet “Le Boat”. I don’t know if it was tomatoes, thickly sliced, for the grilled
the terroir, or the fact I’d just discovered squid salad (p 94) that Hannah Lewry
I was pregnant or simply because it was described on the cover shoot as “one of
peak season, but those were the best the most delicious recipes I have tasted in Follow me on Instagram
strawberries I have ever tasted. years”. Hannah has a particular way of @KateWilsonZA

8 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


EDITORINCHIEF
Kate Wilson

EDITORIAL CONTENT & ART FOOD TEAM OPERATIONS


DEPUTY EDITOR Michelle Coburn FOOD DIRECTOR Abigail Donnelly GROUP OPERATIONS MANAGER Liesl Nicholson
GROUP ART DIRECTOR Jess Bailey DEPUTY FOOD EDITOR Khanya Mzongwana ACTING PRODUCTION CO-ORDINATOR
ART DIRECTOR Martin Jacobs SENIOR CONTENT CREATOR Clem Pedro Delené van der Lugt
SENIOR MULTIMEDIA DESIGNER Rugshaana Abrahams CONTRIBUTING FOOD EDITOR Hannah Lewry
CHIEF COPY EDITOR Lynda Ingham-Brown CONSULTING DIETICIAN Mariza van Zyl PUBLISHING TEAM
PHOTOGRAPHERS Jan Ras, Shavan Rahim GROUP ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Kelly Cloete
CONTRIBUTORS PRODUCTION MANAGER Shirley Quinlan
DIGITAL & COMMERCIAL CONTENT Ami Kapilevich, Annette Klinger, Bianca Strydom, Brita
HEAD OF DIGITAL CONTENT Katharine Pope du Plessis, Claire-Ellen van Rooyen, Dirk Pieters, Ellah ADVERTISING & MARKETING
COMMERCIAL CONTENT EDITOR Fatima Saib Maepa, Emma Nkunzana, Heiner Klaus, Jacqueline BUSINESS MANAGER Yvette Samaai
ONLINE EDITOR Annzra Naidoo Burgess, Jeanne Calitz, John van Zyl, Joseph Dhafana, +27 21 417 1156 yvette.samaai@newmedia.co.za
CONTENT PRODUCER Lesego Madisa Josh van Zyl, Justin Patrick, Kieran Stevenson, Manos KEY ACCOUNT MANAGER Tharien Nel
Chatzikonstantis, Luke Dale Roberts, Mokgadi Itsweng, +27 21 417 5168 tharien.nel@newmedia.co.za
VIDEO CONTRIBUTORS Myburgh du Plessis, Nabo Binase, Nickey Bothma,
GUEST HOSTS Keletso Motau, Mogau Seshoene Raymand Buitendag, Richard Holmes, Sadiqah Assur- WOOLWORTHS EDITORIAL BOARD
VIDEOGRAPHERS Ant Hoard, John Taylor, Romy Taylor, Ismail, Sam Woulidge, Shaen Adey, Siba Mtongana, HEAD OF BRAND COMMUNICATIONS Elizka Ferreira
Sadiqah Assur-Ismail Tessa Kiros, Toby Murphy, Vusi Ndlovu EDITORIAL LEAD Raphaella Frame-Tolmie
MARKETING MANAGER FOODS
Tumi Monare

EXECUTIVE TEAM
CEO Aileen Lamb COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR Maria Tiganis STRATEGY DIRECTOR Andrew Nunneley
CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Venette Malone CEO MEDIA24 Ishmet Davidson

What’s your favourite fresh summer dish?

“Tiger’s milk dressing on everything! “There are some beautiful tomatoes “I’m going to be grilling loads of “A HUGE bowl of fresh summer
On mangoes, baby marrow ribbons, at Woolies right now – ripe, juicy Woolies’ Patagonia squid, tossing it in fruit. Tons of litchis, slices of crunchy
noodles, prawns, Flavourburst avos.” heirlooms, amasi cheese, caperberries lemon juice, parsley, chilli and olive oil watermelon and a handful of cherries
– Abigail Donnelly and sweet herby vinaigrette is a fave!” and eating it with my tomato salad!” – perfection!” – Fatima Saib
– Khanya Mzongwana – Hannah Lewry (See recipe on p 94.)

CONVERSION CHART
250 ml = 1 cup 125 ml = ½ cup 65 ml = ¼ cup 15 ml = 1 tablespoon 45 ml = 3 tablespoons
190 ml = ¾ cup 85 ml = ¹⁄ cup 5 ml = 1 teaspoon 30 ml = 2 tablespoons 60 ml = 4 tablespoons

COMPETITION TERMS AND CONDITIONS * Woolworths products featured are subject to


The winners will be the first correct entries drawn after the closing date. In the event of the judges not being availability and may not be available at all stores.
able to contact the selected winner on contact details supplied, an alternative winner will be selected. The All prices include VAT and were correct at the time
judges’ decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. The prize is not transferable and may of going to press. Offers available while stocks
not be converted into cash. Employees of Woolworths, New Media and the prize sponsor company, their last. Not all products and ingredients featured are
families, agencies or any other parties associated with the competition may not enter. Only one entry per available from Woolworths. While all precautions
person will be allowed. All details correct at time of going to print. Note that some expenses may not be have been taken to ensure the accuracy of
included in the prize. Visit taste.co.za for prize-specific information and terms and conditions. Entry is limited information, neither the publisher and editor, nor
to South African residents over the age of 18. Unless otherwise specified, the closing date for all giveaways New Media, can be held liable for any inaccuracies,
and competitions in this issue is 23 February 2024. Terms and conditions apply, see above. injuries or damages that may arise.

SUBSCRIPTIONS & DISTRIBUTION Subscriptions hotline: 087 353 1291

Repro by: New Media Printed by: CTP Printers


33 173
Q3 2023
Published on behalf of Woolworths
by New Media, a division of Media24 (Pty) Ltd, 8th floor,
Media 24 Centre, 40 Heerengracht, Cape Town, 8001
Telephone: +27 (21) 406 2002 newmedia.co.za

10 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


WW W. ON EH UNDREDP ERCEN T . CO.Z A

BEYOND BOUTIQUE®

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overlooking the luscious garden and famous underground hide providing unlimited viewing angles of the Big Five and
many other herds replenishing themselves every day and night at their favourite waterhole.
It’s malaria free, it’s family friendly, it’s Beyond Boutique®.

Reservations: 27 (0) 21 794 6561 | Email: stay@thelastword.co.za

www.thelastword.co.za
SUBSCRIBE & WIN
Subscribe to TASTE magazine and save 25% (pay just R427.50 for six issues).
Plus, you could win one of three REN hampers, each worth R3 500

REN was created when the


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SIX EASY WAYS TO SUBSCRIBE FROM INSTAGRAM


1. Call 087 353 1300. This number can also be called for renewals. “Nothing like a one-dish meal on
2. For international subscriptions, call 021 065 0033.
a Monday evening! One-pot pork
3. SMS “TASTE” to 32361.
4. WhatsApp “TASTE” to 087 353 1333. chops by @wwtaste ticks all the
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12 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


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Your lunch reboot


Kick-start 2024 with a great lunch strategy you will want to stick to.
We’ve got all the recipes and equipment you need!

Win Mepal
lunchbox
gear worth
R2 285

Sign up to the TASTE newsletter and you could


win five Mepal products to help ease the back-
to-school panic. The prize includes two Cirqula
bowl sets, a large Bento lunchbox, Ellipse lunch

PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION KHANYA MZONGWANA FOOD ASSISTANT ELLAH MAEPA
pot and Ellipse water bottle.
Made in Holland, Mepal has developed a
What’s the worst thing you’ve ever witnessed someone eat for distinct Bauhaus-inspired style for its functional
lunch? We’ve seen some pretty desperate desk lunches in our plastic products over the past 60 years. From
time – a single unseasoned avocado (gasp), a solitary, stale freezer to microwave storage and nestable
rice cake, and a can of dry tuna (cue coughing fit). bowls, classically shaped dinnerware and on-
Where once we had drawers full of condiments and snacks, the-go bottles, Mepal products are as beautiful
hybrid working has made a mess of our lunch game (RIP the as they are clever. Made from near-indestructible
array of snacks we left in our desk drawers back in 2020!). materials, they're designed to suit your lifestyle –
This is the year to fix this. Coming up in our January whether it’s on the table, outside, or on the go.
newsletters: achievable lunch ideas that won’t break the bank,
ruin your mindful eating, or leak all over your laptop bag. The prize includes: A three-piece Cirqula
We’ve got lunches under R50 per serving and adult lunchbox shallow bowl set in blue; a three-piece Cirqula
ideas; we’ve got edible bribery for the kids’ lunchboxes and deep bowl set in white; a large Bento lunchbox
quick ideas to make at home on those WFH days. Say goodbye in green; an Ellipse lunch pot in denim; and
to sad lunches forever! a 700 ml Ellipse water bottle in denim.
How to enter:
Sign up now to get back on track and start the year Visit taste.co.za/newsletter-sign-up and sign up
with a little something to look forward to: lunchtime! before 22 February 2024.

SIGN UP! Head to taste.co.za/newsletter-sign-up

14 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


CO MP E TITION

One lucky TASTE reader will win a two-night stay for two in a luxury
double room at the Cellars-Hohenort Hotel & Spa, valued at R20 000

The Cellars-Hohenort Hotel & Spa is tucked away within nine acres of lush gardens in Cape Town’s historical Constantia Valley. A short
15-minute drive from the city centre, the five-star hotel is part of The Liz McGrath Collection, and a proud member of The Small Luxury
Hotels of the World. Each of the 51 elegant guest rooms and suites, including two private villas, boasts breathtaking views of the Table
Mountain range and the property’s extraordinary gardens. The guest lounge and bar areas, as well as The Conservatory restaurant, were
recently transformed with brand-new design and interiors; a contemporary new menu; and a talented young head chef to head up the
kitchen brigade. Armed with solid experience and youthful passion, head chef Daniel Blignaut is supported by group executive chef of
The Liz McGrath Collection, Tronette Dippenaar, to offer a contemporary, world-class culinary experience presented with warm South
African hospitality. Foodies are also drawn to the classic high tea served in the Hohenort building on its wraparound terrace, while
picnics are popular during the summer months, too. Reservations are essential. thecellars-hohenorthotel.com

THE PRIZE: A two-night stay for two people in a luxury double room with verandah, including breakfast daily, valued at
R20 000, with a complimentary room upgrade, subject to availability. Ts&Cs apply. To enter, visit taste.co.za.

Readers’ offer: TASTE readers enjoy 10% discount on any new bookings between 1 May 2024 and 31 August 2024. Quote: WW Taste (Jan/Feb 2024)

16 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N

SUMMER SIPPING
Summer is truly upon
us and it’s the perfect
time to enjoy a glass
of fine white wine –
Cape Point Vineyards’
Sauvignon Blanc is the
perfect choice. With a
riot of fruity flavours on
the nose – apricot, pear,
apple, granadilla – and
a hint of fynbos and
dried herbs, this wine

PHOTOGRAPH SADIQAH ASSURISMAIL PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY FOOD ASSISTANT CLAIREELLEN VAN ROOYEN
is pure sunshine in a
glass. With its bright and
refreshing acidity, it will
drink well now, but the
aromas will still develop
beautifully for the next
two to five years. Cheers!
cpv.co.za

SERVING
SUGGESTION
Prepare
Woolworths’ frozen
vegetable pot-
stickers according
to package
instructions. Serve
with Woolworths’
Asian-style salad
dressing for a quick
and delicious
dipping sauce.

DRINK RESPONSIBLY. NOT FOR PERSONS UNDER THE AGE OF 18.


W EE KN IGH T DIN NE RS

Load up on veggies and


grains (and flavour!) with Brita
du Plessis’ midweek family
meals that’ll help you ease
into the new year in exactly
the right way. Bonus: at under
R50 per head, they’re good
for your budget, too

PHOTOGRAPHS JAN RAS RECIPES


AND PRODUCTION BRITA DU PLESSIS
FOOD ASSISTANT JOSH VAN ZYL

TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 19


W EE KN IGH T DIN NE RS

SORGHUM-
AND-BEETROOT
HADDOCK SALAD
“The nuttiness of sorghum
is a perfect match for earthy
beetroot and smoky haddock.”

Serves 5
EASY
GREAT VALUE
Preparation: 20 minutes
Cooking: 40 minutes

Woolworths red
sorghum 250 g
baby beetroot 650 g,
washed and peeled
olive oil, for drizzling
Woolworths lightly smoked
haddock 300 g
milk, for poaching
sea salt and freshly ground
black pepper, to taste
watercress 2 x 40 g packets
green apples 2, cut into
matchsticks

For the dressing, whisk:


crème fraîche 250 g
lime 1, zested and juiced
parsley 10 g, finely chopped
dill 10 g, finely chopped

1 Cook the sorghum


according to package
instructions and set aside.
Place the beetroot on a lined
baking tray and drizzle with
olive oil. Roast for 40 minutes
at 180°C. 2 Place the haddock
in a shallow pan, half cover
with milk and season. Bring to
a gentle simmer and poach
for 4–6 minutes. Tear into
large pieces. 3 Arrange the
watercress on a platter and
add the beetroot, haddock
and apple. Dollop with the
dressing and serve.
HEALTH-CONSCIOUS,
WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE
WINE: Laibach Ladybird
Red Blend

SORGHUM-
AND-BEETROOT
HADDOCK SALAD
R50 PER SERVING

20 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


TOMATO-AND-
SPINACH SPAGHETTI
R42 PER SERVING

TOMATO-AND-
SPINACH SPAGHETTI
“I love a light and fresh summer pasta
with just-cooked bursting sweet tomatoes,
barely wilted spinach and grassy olive oil
with a kick of chilli.” 1 Heat the olive oil in a pan until
just smoking, then pour over the
Serves 4 chilli and leave to infuse for
EASY 10 minutes or until cool.
GREAT VALUE Season well. 2 Cook the
Preparation: 10 minutes spaghetti in salted boiling
Cooking: 30 minutes water for 10 minutes or
until al dente. Drain, rinse
olive oil 4 T and keep warm. 3 Drizzle
red chilli 1, finely chopped the tomatoes and garlic
sea salt and freshly ground black with 2 T chilli oil and roast at BREAK BREAD
pepper, to taste 200°C for 10 minutes. 4 Blitz Never discard leftover
spaghetti 400 g the parsley, basil and ciabatta garlic bread. It adds
Woolworths baby Rosa tomatoes 200 g together in a blender, season and a lovely textural
garlic 2 cloves toast in the oven at the same time as the crunch to any pasta
parsley 10 g tomatoes for 10 minutes, or until crispy. dish. Blitz it up for an
basil 10 g 5 Toss the hot tomatoes, spinach, instant pangrattato
and add a little grated
Woolworths Heat & Eat garlic spaghetti and feta and remaining oil and
Parmesan if you like.
ciabatta 1 x 180 g, cubed serve scattered with the bread mixture. Better yet, make a big
spinach 300 g, finely shredded HEALTH-CONSCIOUS, MEAT-FREE batch and freeze it.
feta 100 g, cubed WINE: Creation Syrah Grenache

TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 21


W EE KN IGH T DIN NE RS

LOADED TEX-MEX
SWEET POTATOES
WITH GUACAMOLE
R38 PER SERVING

LOADED TEX-MEX coriander 10 g, roughly chopped


SWEET POTATOES Woolworths jalapeño topping 130 g
WITH GUACAMOLE
“Who doesn’t love a roasted sweet potato For the guacamole, mash:
combined with Mexican flavours? This dish avocado 1
is an easy one to scale up for a crowd. And if lime 1, zested and juiced
you’ve lit a braai, slow-roast the potatoes in coriander 10 g, roughly chopped
the coals instead of in the oven.”
1 Rub the potatoes with 1 T oil and
Serves 4 season well with salt. Roast at 200°C for
EASY 30–40 minutes, or until soft. 2 Mix the
GREAT VALUE chicken with 1 T oil and 1 t mild seasoning
Preparation: 15 minutes and brown in a pan. Remove and set
Cooking: 40 minutes aside. 3 Heat the remaining oil in the pan,
add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add
large sweet potatoes 4 the tomatoes, remaining mild seasoning
olive oil 3 T and the sugar and bring to the boil.
salt, to taste Reduce the heat to a simmer and add the ON THE PULSE
free-range skinless chicken breast chicken, corn mix and coriander and heat
Turn this into a
1, sliced into strips through. 4 Split open the sweet potatoes vegetarian dish by
Woolworths mild seasoning 2 t and spoon in the chicken-and-corn mix. using your favourite
garlic 2 cloves, crushed Dollop with the guacamole and drizzle canned pulses or beans
peeled and diced tomatoes 1 x 410 g can with the jalapeño topping. instead of chicken.
brown sugar 1 t DAIRY-FREE, WHEAT- AND
Woolworths frozen roasted Mexican- GLUTEN-FREE
style corn mix 250 g WINE: Diemersfontein Malbec Reserve

22 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


W EE KN IGH T DIN NE RS

CHARRED GREEN SALAD Tenderstem broccoli 230 g garlic 1 clove, crushed


“Everything tastes a better with a little char. sugar snap peas 200 g, sliced
Griddle the greens and nectarines on the nectarines 4, sliced 1 Cook the cauliflower rice according
braai for that extra summer flavour.” Woolworths butter-basted chicken to package instructions. 2 Heat a griddle
breasts 3, shredded pan and chargrill the vegetables and
Serves 6 flaked almonds 50 g, toasted nectarines in batches. 3 Shred the
EASY chicken and toss with the cauliflower
GREAT VALUE For the dressing, whisk: rice, vegetables and nectarines. Drizzle
Preparation: 15 minutes Woolworths white balsamic with the dressing and top with the
Cooking: 20 minutes condiment ¼ cup flaked almonds.
lemon 1, zested and juiced HEALTH-CONSCIOUS
Woolworths cauliflower rice honey 1 T WINE: Woolworths Signature Merlot
2 x 80 g packets olive oil ⁄ cup

SWAP SHOP
Instead of butter-basted
chicken breasts, you
could use Woolies’
free-range paprika-and-
coriander chicken steaks
and add South American
flavour with chimichurri
salad drizzle.

GREEN GRAIN SALAD


R49 PER SERVING

TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 23


PITAS STUFFED
WITH MOROCCAN-
STYLE MEATBALLS
R50 PER SERVING

PITAS STUFFED WITH seasoning 1 T in the last few minutes of cooking. 2 Toss
MOROCCAN-STYLE oil 2 T the chickpeas, tomatoes and harissa paste
MEATBALLS apricot jam ¼ cup in the remaining oil and roast at 180°C
“Who says sizzlers are only for the pan? Spiced chickpeas in brine 1 x 400 g can, drained for 15 minutes. 3 Spread the inside of
up and finished off with a lick of apricot glaze, Woolworths Rosa tomatoes 200 g each pita pocket with hummus and stuff
turn them into little meatballs perfect for Woolworths fresh harissa paste 75 g with lettuce, coriander, roasted chickpeas
stuffing into crispy pitas with all the toppings.” pita breads 6, lightly toasted and halved and tomato and meatballs. Drizzle with
hummus 180 g yoghurt and serve.
Serves 6 iceberg lettuce ¼, shaved WINE: Tamboerskloof Syrah
EASY coriander 15 g, finely chopped
GREAT VALUE plain yoghurt 200 g
Preparation: 20 minutes NEW BRAAI FAVOURITE
Cooking: 25 minutes 1 Remove the sausage meat from Mould the spiced lamb-and-beef filling onto
the casings and mix with the Moroccan wooden skewers, kebab style, and cook
Woolworths lamb-and-beef sizzlers seasoning. Roll into 24 small balls and them on the braai. Remove the cooked meat
2 x 450 g packets brown in 1 T oil over a medium heat until and add to warm wraps with all the fillings
to enjoy around the fire.
Woolworths Moroccan tagine cooked through. Glaze with apricot jam

24 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


W EE KN IGH T DIN NE RS

LAKSA-POACHED coconut milk 1 x 400 ml can until fragrant. 2 Pour in the coconut milk,
CHICKEN AND NOODLES Woolworths chicken liquid stock stock and water and add the chicken.
“I’ve always been a lazy cook who loves a concentrate 1 sachet Bring to the boil, cover, reduce to a simmer
one-pot meal, so this is my kind of supper. water 1 litre and cook for 1 hour. Add the butternut in
A tub of Woolies’ fresh laksa paste adds bags whole free-range chicken 1 the last 10 minutes of cooking time.
of flavour to the coconut milk and chicken.” butternut 1, peeled and cut into 3 Remove from the heat and portion the
half-moons chicken, discarding the skin and bones.
Serves 6 pak choi 200 g, sliced Return to the pan and add the pak choi.
EASY Woolworths pad Thai noodles 400 g 4 Pour boiling water over the noodles
GREAT VALUE coriander 5 g and soak for 5 minutes. Drain and divide
Preparation: 15 minutes mint 5 g between 6 bowls. 5 Ladle over the chicken
Cooking: 1 hour limes 2, for serving and veg and serve immediately topped
with the herbs and a squeeze of lime juice.
olive oil 2 T 1 Heat the oil in a large saucepan, add DAIRY-FREE
Woolworths fresh laksa paste 150 g the laksa paste and fry for 1–2 minutes or WINE: Iona Ten Barrel Chardonnay

LAKSA-POACHED
CHICKEN AND NOODLES
R50 PER SERVING

TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 25


W EE KN IGH T DIN NE RS

EXPERT TIP
Take your time sautéing the
onions to render them soft and
sweet, just shy of caramelising.
Make sure you counterbalance
all the sweetness by adding the
right amount of salt. And since
it’s summer, add a glass of good-
quality white wine to the pan
to deglaze for extra depth.

PEA-AND-BASIL
RISOTTO WITH
LEMONY CHILLI RICOTTA
R46 PER SERVING

PEA-AND-BASIL RISOTTO garlic 2 cloves, crushed


WITH LEMONY CHILLI risotto rice 400 g
RICOTTA hot vegetable stock 1½ litres
“Sweet frozen peas are a winner for flavour frozen petits-pois 500 g
and convenience. Pair them with creamy basil pesto 125 g
risotto and dollop a hit of lemony, acidic
ricotta on top to melt through and round For the lemony chilli ricotta, mix:
it all off.” chilli flakes, to taste been absorbed. Repeat until all the stock
lemon 1, zested and juiced is used, about 20 minutes. Stir through
Serves 4 Woolworths Ayrshire ricotta 250 g the peas with the last addition of stock.
EASY 3 Remove from the heat, stir through the
GREAT VALUE 1 Heat the oil in a pan over a low heat. pesto and adjust the seasoning. Dollop
Preparation: 10 minutes Add the onion and garlic and sauté for with lemony chilli ricotta and serve
Cooking: 30 minutes 8 minutes or until soft and sweet. Add the immediately.
rice and stir for another minute to coat. HEALTH-CONSCIOUS, MEAT-FREE,
olive oil 2 T 2 Add 2 cups stock and bring to a simmer, WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE
onion 1, finely chopped stirring continuously until the stock has WINE: Nitida Sauvignon Blanc

26 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N

REALITY
BITES

Make this the year you say


goodbye to boring desk
lunches. No one needs to
settle for soggy canteen
salads and vending
machine sarmies.
Plan ahead and pack
a lunchbox that’ll actually
PHOTOGRAPH SADIQAH ASSURISMAIL PRODUCTION BRITA DU PLESSIS FOOD ASSISTANT JOSH VAN ZYL

be the highlight of your


work day. Woolworths’
range of good-to-go
trout bites, skewers and
cream cheese rolls are
the perfect companion for
slaws and mini multiseed
rolls, making lunches
that are worth stepping
away from your desk.
woolworths.co.za

SERVING SUGGESTION Toss Woolworths’ Asian slaw and dressing with


edamame beans. Top with pickled ginger, avocado and trout bites for a fresh
lunchbox solution. Slice open mini brown seeded rolls and dollop with a little
mayo. Stuff with sliced cucumber and trout-and-cream cheese rolls.
EAT THIS, DRINK THAT,
BUY THESE. RIGHT NOW.
COMPILED BY ANNETTE KLINGER

CO F F E E 2 .0
TASTE food director Abigail Donnelly has called it: mesquite coffee
will be big news in 2024. Made by slow-roasting the pods of the
mesquite tree, it can be brewed just as you would a regular cup
of coffee and has a nutty, caramel flavour with a natural sweetness,
but no caffeine. The best part? It’s produced in the heart of the
Karoo by a company called MannaBrew. Turn the page for more
of Abi’s predictions for the year in food.
PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION BIANCA STRYDOM FOOD ASSISTANT RAYMAND BUITENDAG

TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 29


O F F THE MENU

Dishing the future


Dinners for one, textural heat, vegetables acting like vegetables (at last!) and the
“new” ancient grain set to dethrone quinoa. TASTE’s food director unveils the food
trends you’ll be seeing this year

N O S U B STIT U TE
While no one is denying the revolutionary effect meat
replacements and seafood substitutes have had on the plant-
based industry, there is a growing urge to return to vegan
basics. No carrots posing as salmon ribbons, or beetroot-hued
soya patties mimicking meat. Rather, there’s a celebration of
the inherent flavours and textures of vegetables and vegan
ingredients: the umami might of shiitake, the sweet earthiness
of lentils, the nutty taste of sorghum. The ingredient you’ll
see more of this year? Tofu’s chunkier sibling, tempeh (below),
now available at Woolies.

30 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


OF F T HE M ENU

AMAZING
G R AI N S
Quinoa, the hard-to-pronounce,
easy-to-enjoy superfood, has
become ubiquitous in South African
kitchens, due in large part to the
UN naming it the ingredient of
the year in 2013. Now, it seems to
have passed the torch to its cousin
kañiwa. Indigenous to the Andes,
kañiwa is smaller, darker and sweeter
than quinoa, with more iron and
without the saponins that give
quinoa its slight bitterness when
it’s not rinsed. Enjoy it as you would
quinoa – as a savoury breakfast
cereal, in salads or in stews.

TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 31


O F F THE MENU

M O R E H E AT
In a trend that is surprising
no one, spicy condiments
and seasonings are still
going strong. Building
on last year’s momentum
of all things swicy (sweet
and spicy), 2024 is about
enjoying “complex heat”
and its counterpart “textural
heat”. So hot right now?
Salsa macha – Mexico’s
answer to Chinese chilli crisp
– an oil-based condiment of
dried chillies, garlic, peanuts
and oregano; chilli ketchups,
driven by Heinz’s new spicy
t-sauce range; and bright,
fruity Calabrian chillies –
the new it capsicum.

32 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


OF F T HE M ENU

TI N Y B E AUTI F U L TH I N G S
Small treat culture. Joy snacking. The TikTok generation
is all about carving out moments of self-indulgence
during the day, whether it’s with a five-minute
facial or bougie pastry and matcha latté. Enter the
“snackification” of the food industry and, with it, the rise
of the single-serving treat. Our favourite iteration of this
trend? Pre-cut cake slices (see p 42 for more). Because
nothing says treat yo’self like a tea party for one.

TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 33


O F F THE MENU

HOT RIGHT NOW

On our radar
From little treats to our latest Netflix binge watch, these
are all our current craves

WORD ALERT:

LITTLE TREAT CULTURE


Coined by TikTok, the term refers to indulging
yourself with small spoils to boost your mood.
Something like this fresh fruit sando made
with Japanese milk bread, cream cheese
mousse and seasonal fruit, available on
Thursdays and Fridays at MochiMochi
Japanese Café in Cape Town.
@mochimochi_za

DON’T MISS WCafé’s new summer menu features this belter of


a salad with tomatoes, basil pesto yoghurt, peppered cream cheese, basil
and pomegranate rubies. “It’s my favourite dish from the new menu:
a classic flavour combination with plenty of texture and freshness that
really showcases some of our incredible, seasonal ingredients,” says
Woolies product development manager Scott Parker. Even better news
for residents of Somerset West is that they can have it for dinner now
that Waterstone’s WCafé is open until 10 pm. Now watching:
FIVE STAR CHEF
PHOTOGRAPHS SHAVAN RAHIM, DIRK PIETERS PRODUCTION
BIANCA STRYDOM FOOD ASSISTANT RAYMAND BUITENDAG

What? Michel Roux Junior puts


seven chefs through “the toughest job
Sisters interview of their lives” for the chance
cooking it for to win their own restaurant at London’s
themselves swanky Langham Hotel.
Last year’s Eat Out Woolworths
Restaurant Awards had an all-
Why? The challenges are geared
female line-up of chefs. “We’re
towards catering to the ultra-wealthy’s
seeing more women taking
every whim. R500 000 taco, anyone?
charge of restaurant kitchens,
Compulsive, voyeuristic watching.
From left: Charné Sampson, Jackie Cameron, Megin injecting spaces with empathy,”
Meikle, Carla Schulze, Ronel de Jager, Motheba says TASTE food director and Eat
Makhetha, Eleanor Coetzee.
Out chief judge Abigail Donnelly. Where? Netflix

34 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N

THE CURE
Woolworths’ wood-smoked, streaky bacon that’s made without added nitrites, is still bacon,
but better. A combination of fruit and spice extracts is used to cure the pork. Deck out your
breakfast table with a full English, give a salty twist to caramel desserts or turn a classic
sandwich into a salad with great-tasting crispy bacon. woolworths.co.za
PHOTOGRAPH SADIQAH ASSURISMAIL PRODUCTION BRITA DU PLESSIS FOOD ASSISTANT JOSH VAN ZYL

SERVING SUGGESTION Place 8 strips bacon and 3 cubed slices sourdough on a baking
sheet and grill for 10 minutes, or until crispy. Remove the bacon and toss the croutons in the
fat on the baking tray. Mix 1 roughly chopped head Crunchita lettuce, 350 g sliced Bella
tomatoes and 1 cubed avocado with the bacon and croutons, then toss with Woolworths’
basil-and-white balsamic salad dressing.
O F F THE MENU

EVERY
YTHING YO
OU NEED
TO KNOW ABOUTT

They’re the lifeblood of granolas, plant-based lattés,


gluten-free baking and a gazillion desserts – in short,
the pantry staple that’ll see you through just about
any gastronomic emergency

Whole Flour
Eat them by the handful: A godsend for the gluten-
raw, candied with cinnamon intolerant, it adds an earthiness
sugar à la German gebrannte and crumbly consistency to
mandeln, or toasted with wheat-free breads, cakes and
sea salt and smoked paprika. cookies, and fudgy texture
Blanch, then whizz up with to marzipan and Indian
roasted peppers and garlic sweetmeat, burfi. Use it to
for a knockout pasta sauce. coat schnitzels, or to thicken
stews and soups.

Milk
WCafé baristas love it for its Chopped, flaked
frothing prowess, and their and slivered
customers enjoy its rich,
velvety mouthfeel. To make They’re world citizens in
your own, soak 200 g almonds desserts from Italian panforte
in water overnight, drain, rinse, to French almond croissants,
then blend with 4 cups water
and strain through muslin
and in savoury dishes from
Moroccan tagines to Iranian
ALMONDS LOVE
cloth before sweetening. pilaf. The next time you make
cauliflower soup, crumble over
some blue cheese and scatter
with toasted flaked almonds.
Butter
Blitzed into banana smoothies, Cherries Chocolate Cinnamon
stirred into milky vanilla oats, Essence
slathered on toast with slices The Italians have a soft spot for
of nectarine and honey,
PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION BIANCA STRYDOM

the food flavouring (Amaretto


or tossed through noodles liqueur! Amaretti! Biscotti!) and
with chilli crisp, it’s the gift its place in milk tart is highly
that keeps on giving. divisive. Add a dash to berry
Garlic Green beans Trout
FOOD ASSISTANT RAYMAND BUITENDAG

crumble and thank us later.

DID Almonds come from the


Prunus genus, which includes
cherries, plums and peaches.
They are native to Iran and
are said to have been one of
the earliest cultivated foods
There’s debate about who
first produced marzipan – the
ground almond, honey and
YOU They are not classified as true
nuts but are in fact the seeds
in the world. The US grows
the majority of the world’s
sugar paste – so it has
protected designation of
KNOW? of the fruit. almonds today. origin status in Toledo, Spain
and Lübeck, Germany.

36 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


SMART COOKIE
FIND THE
RECIPE AT
TASTE.CO.ZA
PHOTOGRAPH SADIQAH ASSURISMAIL PRODUCTION JACQUELINE BURGESS FOOD ASSISTANT LERATO MOTAU

We all need something sweet. Fill a tin with these six-ingredient biscuits – made
with Nestlé Caramel Treat and Nestlé sweetened condensed milk – or add
them to the kids’ lunchboxes. You don’t need to be a pro baker to whip up
a batch of these either, you just need one bowl, 25 minutes and a moment
œvȏi˜ViÜ i˜ޜÕÌ>ŽiޜÕÀwÀÃÌLˆÌi°˜iÃ̏i‡iÃ>À°Vœ“
O F F THE MENU

FOOD NERD TO FOLLOW Coffee or tea?

Major’s Kitchen Strong black coffee as


soon as I get to the office
to wake me up. Black
rooibos for the rest of
Creative product manager by day, passionate home cook and content
the day to chill me out.
creator by night, Justin Major dishes on his dream dinner guests,
standard summer sip and pantry staple ride or die

Dream dinner guests


Justin Major
Roy Choi (after a night out bar-hopping
and eating tapas, we’d pour late-night Ice cream order
negronis and cook up noodles with Woolies’ dairy-free caramel-flavoured
whatever I have in the fridge), Khanya coconut ice cream with a pinch of Maldon.
Mzongwana (we have the same taste
in hip-hop and unpretentious, generous
food), and Action Bronson (the F**k,
That’s Delicious host would enjoy Always running out of…
hot Italian fennel sausage and Vinegar (apple cider, balsamic, mirin, rice
crispy basil penne). wine, red wine, Chinese black vinegar).
It’s my preferred acid.

PORTRAIT CHANTÉ JOHANNES PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION BIANCA STRYDOM FOOD ASSISTANT ELLAH MAEPA
Food hero
Noodles or pasta?
My maternal grandmother taught me Dream kitchen gadget
Noodles in a big bowl of ramen broth, the subtlety and importance of specific
soya-marinated egg and chashu pork belly. A sous-vide immersion circulator. A lot of my
cooking techniques. She would roll and
Slurped while piping hot. cooking is low and slow – this would take it
shape her parathas before sunrise to
to a new level.
ensure the butter wasn’t too melted.

Most viral recipe Top tipple


My whole lamb shoulder biryani. A glass of cold Cederberg Bukettraube is my
It turned out to be quite the favourite wine for pairing with cheese and
showstopper, digging through layers charcuterie on a warm summer’s day.
of saffron-scented rice to shred chunks
of tender lamb shoulder.

38 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


O FF TH E M ENU

TASTE IS LOVING....

Plant-
based
noodles
The TASTE team knows nothing
if not how to use our noodles,
and Woolies’ brand-new plant-based
range is taking the edge off our back-
to-work blues. These are our
go-to weeknight dinners. Slurp!

“My favourite way with the spinach-


and-cauliflower noodles is stir-fried,
with Woolies’ new spicy chilli crisp,
fresh coriander, spring onion and
whatever protein I have in the fridge –
meatballs are great!” – Clement Pedro
PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION BIANCA STRYDOM FOOD ASSISTANT RAYMAND BUITENDAG

“I like to toss the cauliflower noodles


through crispy fried bacon and marinated
sundried tomatoes – and a dash of cream
if I have some.” – Abigail Donnelly

“I’ve been having a lot of the cauliflower-


and-carrot fettuccine, tossed through an
oily gochujang dressing of ginger, sesame
oil, rice wine vinegar and gochujang paste,
some cubed yuzu tofu and a sprinkling of
sesame seeds.” – Khanya Mzongwana

FIND THEM AT WOOLIES Look out for the cauliflower-


and-carrot fettuccine, spinach-and-cauliflower noodles
and cauliflower noodles at your nearest store and at
woolworths.co.za R44.99 each for 250 g.

TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 39


O F F THE MENU

ANATOMY OF A DISH

Starring casserole
In his fine-dining interpretation of a classic chicken-and-mushroom casserole, chef Charlie
Lakin pays tribute to the suppliers who helped to earn his Durban restaurant, Meraki, two
stars at the Eat Out Woolworths Restaurant Awards 2023

The backstory: “My The chicken: Charlie The mushrooms: “The The peas: “I love fresh
mum’s chicken-and- sources his free-range blue oyster mushrooms garden peas cooked in
mushroom stew was a organic chicken from are grown by Tyler chicken stock and butter,”
staple growing up, as we Country Road Chicken’s Jackson in Kloof just says Charlie, who gets
had hundreds of chickens Carol and Steve Bailey in down the road,” says his, freshly picked from
running around. But most the Drummond valley. He Charlie, who also forages Camp Orchards about a
were only good to be cooks the chicken poché for porcini and Judas ear kilometre down the road,
cooked in a stew pot grille: first brining it, then mushrooms nearby. “The then delivered straight
as they were tough old poaching it in a light oyster mushrooms are away. “Petits-pois à la
birds,” says Charlie, chicken stock with loads very simply sautéed. francaise is one of my
who grew up on a of herbs from Carol, When ingredients are favourite veg dishes.
smallholding in Yorkshire. before searing it in a pan good and fresh, there’s They’re cooked similarly,
“My dad always had loads with butter. The wing is no point in messing usually with onions and
of mushrooms growing brined again and stuffed around with them.” lettuce, but I popped
on his muck heap that we with a chicken-and-blue the leek into the dish
would pick during the oyster mushroom for the same feel.”
day when my parents forcemeat, deep-fried The sauce: A reduction
were at work. The stew and finished in a of Charlie’s house-made
was built up with reduction of mushroom chicken stock, heavily The leeks: Sourced
whatever was growing in pickling liquor. flavoured with fresh from Chisomo Bean in
the garden; my favourite thyme, brings the dish Merrivale, they’re simply
was fresh leeks.” together, giving it “the charred in a dry pan to
richness of my mum’s add a little bitterness
stew pot”. alongside the sweetness
of the peas.

PHOTOGRAPH KIERAN STEVENSON

Meraki by Charlie Lakin,


7 Builders Way, Hillcrest,
Durban; tel. 067 346 5995;
merakibycharlie.co.za
Follow @merakibycharlie

40 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


Cluny Sully Citeaux Sully 2200

CONFIGURE YOUR OWN COOKER


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O F F THE MENU Military precision
René and her team treat the baking of their
cakes as a science. Take the rainbow cake slice:
each of the 100% natural food dyes are
weighed on a micro scale before being folded
WOOLWORTHS FOOD HERO into the vanilla batter to achieve the correct
colour. When the sponges emerge from the

Piece o’ cake oven, they’re checked against a Pantone colour


chart to ensure the colours are consistent.

The best thing since sliced bread?


Try Woolies’ new cake slices – cut with
crazy precision using a water jet (IKR!?)
and available in four flavours. Product Teamwork makes
developer René Simatos spills the tea... the dream work
There are 24
dedicated team
members working
on Woolies’ new
Waterworks line of cake slices:
The cake slices are cut using a waterjet slicer – an two product
industrial tool that uses an extremely high-pressure developers, three
jet of water, focused into a beam by a nozzle to cut food technologists,
the slices to precision without any damage. four bakers, four
cake assemblers,
one waterjet
operator, six people
to package the
slices, and three
quality controllers.

Handmade with care


The baked sponges and fillings are
layered by hand according to a set of
product specifications determined

PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION BIANCA STRYDOM FOOD ASSISTANT RAYMAND BUITENDAG
by René and her team. There are
several checkpoints during assembly
to ensure the team is on track. Once
the cake slices have been cut by the
waterjet, they’re packaged by hand
to make their way to the store.

Raw materials
Not surprisingly, Woolies uses only the
Start to finish
best ingredients for their slices. The
The whole product
sponges are made using butter and free-
development process
range eggs. Their carrot cake slices contain
for Woolies’ cake slices
real cream cheese, fresh cream and a
took 270 days. Now
lemon yuzu curd. The rainbow slice is
the team produces an
coloured with natural food colouring and
average of 2 700 slices
filled with a decadent, sustainably sourced
a day to keep up with
white chocolate mousse. The chocolate
customer demand.
caramel slice sandwiches vanilla and
chocolate sponge with an in-house
steamed caramel, and is dusted with
Rainforest Alliance Certified cocoa powder. Chocolate-caramel, carrot and rainbow
cake slices, from R40.29 each.

42 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N

SEE THE LIGHTS


JACQUELINE BURGESS FOOD ASSISTANT LERATO MOTAU
PHOTOGRAPH SADIQAH ASSURISMAIL PRODUCTION

New starts are easy with Woolies’ exclusive range of fruity, easy-drinking, light wines. Made
by top wine farms including Villiera and Spier, they’re lower in alcohol – and kilojoules! Need
more excuses to stock up? They happen to be light on your pocket, too. So, go on, add the
Light Rosé (R64.99), Light Chenin Blanc (R69.99) and Light Red (R69.99) 750 ml bottles to your
shopping list. And if you’re really looking for a great-value summer sipper, don’t miss the
three-litre box of Light White (R144.99). woolworths.co.za

DRINK RESPONSIBLY. NOT FOR PERSONS UNDER THE AGE OF 18.


O F F THE MENU

soft herbs (such as basil, parsley


and chives) 2½ cups
olive oil ½–¾ cup

For the crispy onions:


small white onions 2, thinly sliced
cornflour 80 g
salt, a generous pinch
ground turmeric ¼ t
canola oil, for frying

Woolworths ripe-and-ready peaches


4, quartered
Woolworths exotic tomato selection
500 g, quartered
extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling
red wine vinegar, for drizzling
sea salt and freshly ground black
pepper, to taste
Woolworths burratina mozzarella
2 x 125 g tubs
fennel or dill fronds, for scattering
sourdough, grilled, for serving

1 To make the green herb oil, blanch the


herbs (stems and all) in boiling, salted water
for 10 seconds, then place in an ice bath.
Drain and squeeze out any excess water,
then blend with the olive oil to make a
smooth, vibrant purée. Place in a coffee
filter paper in a sieve over a jug or bowl,
or use muslin cloth. Drain overnight.
2 To make the crispy onions, rinse the
onions in cold water, drain and pat dry. Mix
the cornflour, salt and turmeric in a bowl.
Add the onions and toss well to coat. Place
in a large sieve and shake off the excess
cornflour through the sieve. 3 Heat the
COOK THE COVER canola oil in a saucepan. To test whether

Fruit forward
it’s hot enough, add an onion. If it sizzles
and floats to the top immediately, the oil
is hot enough. Carefully fry the onions
PHOTOGRAPH MYBURGH DU PLESSIS RECIPE AND PRODUCTION
HANNAH LEWRY FOOD ASSISTANT CLAIREELLEN VAN ROOYEN
in 2 batches and drain on kitchen paper.
Taking inspo from the Italian Caprese or panzanella salads, Hannah Season with a little more salt. 4 Gently
Lewry combines heirloom tomatoes, ripe peaches, creamy cheese toss the peaches and tomatoes in a bowl
and crispy onions (bread on the side). We call it the “Hanzanella” with the olive oil, vinegar and seasoning.
5 Arrange on a large platter and tear over
the burratina so that the cheese and cream
filling pools at the bottom of the plate.
JUICY PEACH-AND- Serves 4 Drizzle over the green herb oil, season once
TOMATO SALAD WITH EASY more. Serve immediately scattered with
CRISPY ONIONS GREAT VALUE the crispy fried onions, garnished with the
“If you’re looking for a salad to sum up Preparation: 20 minutes, plus overnight fennel or dill. Serve the toast on the side.
summer, this is it! Sweet, juicy peaches, draining time Cook’s note: Add prosciutto if you like.
sun-kissed tomatoes, creamy burratina Cooking: 5 minutes HEALTH-CONSCIOUS, MEAT-FREE
and crispy onions all come together for WINE: Woolworths Weltevrede
the perfect mouthful.” – Hannah Lewry For the green herb oil: Strawberry Rosé

44 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


Healthy eating, made easier.
OXO is available in South Africa, please visit
www.edisonstone.com for more information
O F F THE MENU

to fine wine and food is head sommelier


Jerome Faure, who is passionate about
providing guests with a top-class
experience that respects and reflects the
surrounding environment. “Gastronomy
and fine wine are central to the Constance
experience because they embody our
commitment to excellence. Our team of
international chefs uses food as a narrative
tool to share and celebrate culture and
creativity, crafting each dish to reflect
a story about heritage.”
Imagine experiencing this at a table
drifting on an idyllic lagoon. You can do
exactly that at Le Barachois at Constance
Prince Maurice, the only floating restaurant
on the island. Here, the menu celebrates the
flavours of the surrounding Indian Ocean,
and you will feel the gentle sway of the
ocean as you wine and dine. Constance
SPOTLIGHT ON Prince Maurice also offers Archipel

A wine
restaurant, where you’ll enjoy fine dining
with a Mauritian twist (and your choice
of pool or beach views). Wine lovers take
note: the adjoining cellar houses around

festival in 25 000 bottles and a dedicated tasting area


where you’ll want to spend a few hours
touring the world’s best wine regions.

paradise
And if that simply isn’t enough for you,
head on over to The Blue Penny Cellar à la
carte bistro at Constance Belle Mare Plage,
which has an even more remarkable cellar
accommodating 35 000 bottles from more
than 2 300 wineries. Think Tuscany, McLaren
Vale and Franschhoek (of course!).
You will also find numerous bars offering
The only thing better than in Burgundy, France. Pairing dinners, expert- cocktails, spirits and beers. Constance
indulging in excellent food and led tastings and a gala gourmet dinner are even has its own craft beer made by
wine? Enjoying both in a five-star just some of the events lined up (find out local brewery The Thirsty Fox (we highly TEXT AND PORT LOUIS PHOTOGRAPHS ANNZRA DENITA NAIDOO

island setting, obvs. Make 2024 more at constancehotels.com). recommend the piña colada weiss). But
the year you discover Constance But if you really can’t get away from it’s the wine-and-food pairings that take
SA between 12 and 19 May, you still won’t pride of place, so much so that Jerome
hotels and resorts in Mauritius,
want to miss out on the excellent year- has created sommelier programmes that
where world-class restaurants and round food-and-wine offering at the group’s focus on education and the upliftment of
an impressive cellar guarantee the two hotels on the island. Constance Prince local residents. They’re trained to global
greatest kind of escape Maurice (great for couples) and Belle Mare standards, have opportunities to compete
Plage (perfect for family fun) are just 15 in international competitions, and visit the

W ant in on one of the biggest food-


and-wine parties in the world?
We suggest planning a mid-year break in
minutes apart, and a shuttle service means
you can eat and drink your fill at a total
of eight restaurants. Add the turquoise
best wine regions in the world. “Each bottle,
selected by our knowledgeable sommeliers,
is a chapter of a global story, chosen to
Mauritius at the 2024 edition of La Paulée ocean, pristine beaches and luxurious harmonise with our menus and appeal to all
by Constance – a five-day celebration accommodation to the mix, and you wine enthusiasts. Together, food and wine
inspired by the La Paulée de Meursault, have a foodie’s dream holiday. create unforgettable moments, turning your
a lunch marking the end of harvest season The force behind the group’s dedication meals here into a fantastic memory.” W

46 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


OF F T H E M EN U

WHILE YOU’RE
ON THE ISLAND…
Tear yourself away for half a day to
experience the diverse cultures of
the island through a Taste Buddies
(tastebuddies.mu) street-food tour in
the capital. From dim sum and Chinese
sweets to curries and fresh fruit, you’ll
taste a range of foods that are familiar
but with a unique Mauritian twist.
Read more about the Port Louis street-
food tour at taste.co.za.

Clockwise from top left: The Laguna Bar at


Constance Prince Maurice; an aerial view of
Constance Belle Mare Plage; dumplings from
B Don B Snack in Port Louis; Archipel restaurant
at Constance Prince Maurice; sushi from Asian at
Constance Prince Maurice; take time out at Prince
Maurice; the central market in Port Louis; a pretty
carved pineapple from the central market.

TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 47


A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N

SERVING
SUGGESTION Toss
150 g Woolworths’
rainbow slaw, 125 g
blanched, sliced
Tenderstem broccoli,
110 g blanched
edamame beans,
1 cubed avocado and
1 T black and white
sesame seeds. Whisk
1 T crushed ginger, 4 t
oil, 2 T rice vinegar,
2 t maple syrup and
1 chopped spring
onion. Prepare 160 g
Woolworths
PlantLove crumbed
savoury soya bites
and 300 g mini
tempeh sizzlers
according to
package instructions.
Serve with the salad.
It’s possible to cut down on your meat consumption without depriving yourself of your favourite
foods. Woolworths’ extended PlantLove range now includes mini tempeh sizzlers, herbed
tofu and crumbed savoury soya bites. Made using soya beans, this range will challenge
everything you think you knew about meat-free cooking. Gone are the days when tofu
and tempeh were just punchlines – when plant-based is this good even hardened carnivores
will want a bite. woolworths.co.za
PHOTOGRAPH SADIQAH ASSURISMAIL PRODUCTION BRITA DU PLESSIS FOOD ASSISTANT JOSH VAN ZYL

SERVING SUGGESTION
Whisk 1 T rice vinegar, 55 g
brown sugar, 3 T fresh lime
juice, 1 cup mayonnaise,
1/2 cup sweet chilli sauce,
3 T fish sauce, 2 seeded
and chopped red chillies,
2 crushed cloves garlic and
1 T honey. Marinate 350 g
Woolworths PlantLove
herbed tofu in half the
marinade for 45 minutes.
Remove from the marinade
and fry in a little oil until
crispy. Cook 150 g vermicelli
noodles. Mix 1/2 thinly sliced
cucumber, 100 g julienned
carrots, 75 g sliced radishes,
2 cubed avocados, 2 sliced
red peppers, 75 g sprouts,
35 g nut-and-seed sprinkle
and serve with the tofu and
the remaining marinade.
O F F THE MENU

WINE

The vino files: Stellenbosch. It produces fresh, zesty wines


with stone fruit aromas and floral, nutty

your 2024 nuances.” Co-owner and sommelier at Acid


Wine Bar in Joburg (@acid_thebar), Jemma
Styer, also recommends trying something

forecast
different. Never heard of the Portuguese
varietal Fernão Pires, also known as Maria
Gomes? You’ll find it on her wine list. “The
Processus Maria Gomes is my current fave.
Crisp and light or woody with a hint of umami? We asked the experts It’s easy-drinking with a beautiful ripe
for their predicitions and must-visit wine bars in Cape Town and Jozi fruit character, but at the same time it
also has an umami undertone and
elegant complexity.”

3 DRINK AGED WHITES


“I’m excited that more people are realising
that white wines are good for storing,” says
wine educator Tuanni Price, founder of Zuri
Wine Tasting. “I am always amazed at the
consistent acidity and freshness that these
wines maintain while developing tertiary
flavours such as nuttiness and earthiness.
My favourite region and grape varietal to
save for later is Franschhoek Semillon.”

4STOCK UP ON CANS
AND DINKY BOTTLES
Cans of hard seltzers, ready-to-drink
cocktails and wines will be even bigger in
2024, according to independent sommelier
Joseph Dhafana. “They’re good for when
everyone wants to drink something
different – perfect for a drinks party at
home, or to pack into a cooler when you’re
heading outdoors.” Add 350 ml bottles of
ILLUSTRATION JESSICA BAILEY PHOTOGRAPHS ELSA YOUNG, NICKEY
sparkling wine to the mix and you have
plenty of options. BOTHMA PHOTOGRAPHY COMPILED BY MICHELLE COBURN

5BECOME A
PÉT-NAT FAN
1 DISCOVER 2EXPLORE Pétillant-Naturel sparkling wines are still on
AROMATIC WINES UNUSUAL CULTIVARS the rise. Lighter in style than Cap Classique
“Varietals such as Viognier, Grenache Moses Magwaza, sommelier at Pretoria’s and Champagne, they’re great fun to drink.
Blanc, Clairette Blanche, Palomino and Prosopa Restaurant (@prosoparestaurant), “I’ve noticed a remarkable increase in both
Semillon are growing in popularity,” says we can thank local winemakers for consumers’ and winemakers’ willingness
says Wikus Human, head sommelier at experimenting with varietals that South to explore new styles lately,” says Jemma.
Marble Restaurant (@marble_jhb) in Africans aren’t familiar with. “For example, “As a result, we’ve seen an increase in the
Johannesburg. “We’ll also see more wine Jordan has released a 100% Assyrtiko – a production of high-quality natural and
lovers drinking white blends containing grape originally from Greece. But my go- experimental wines. The Lelie van Saron
these varietals, with Chenin Blanc and to this summer is Verdelho, a Portuguese Jade Pét-Nat by Natasha Williams is my
Sauvignon Blanc as the dominant grapes.” white grape that also grows well in poolside favourite.”

50 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


OF F T HE M ENU

#TRENDING
3 WINES TO
BUY NOW
Find these online or at your local Woolies

JOHANNESBURG
MR PANTS, @mrpants_winebar great for unwinding. Best of all, you’re
“Marble (above) has an excellent served by a sommelier who can make
Saronsberg Earth and selection, but on an off day my recommendations to suit you.”
Sky White Blend choice is the smallest wine bar in SA. – Moses Magwaza, Prosopa
Moses Magwaza’s cultivar of the year, Everything is available by the glass –
Verdelho, is included in this blend perfect if you want to drink all your WINEBAR, @w_i_n_e_b_a_r
with Chenin Blanc, Viognier and favourites or explore new wines.” “Winebar by Father Coffee in
Roussanne. R149.99 Kramerville is having a lot of fun
– Wikus Human, Marble
with its wine programme, which
QBAR, @qbar_johannesburg is the way it should be, IMO.”
“I love the beautiful lounge, which is – Jemma Styer, Acid Wine Bar

Raise the bar


The best way to develop your palate is at a great wine bar with well-curated lists of local and
international wines. Try these Jozi and Mother City recommendations

House of BNG Nectar Blanc


sparkling wine
Take your favourite bubbles with you
in a carry bag packed with four cans,
each containing an aromatic wine
created by Bonang Matheba and
Villiera’s Jeff Grier. R199.99 for 4

CAPE TOWN
CULTURE WINE BAR, OPEN WINE, @openwine_za
@culturewinebar “There’s a wide “The selection changes every six
Nitida Sauvignon Blanc range of international and local wines weeks or so, which makes it perfect
Semillon at Culture on Bree Street (above). for experiencing South African wines
Two complementary grapes combine Every time I visit, I learn something without having to visit hundreds
to produce this perfectly balanced new. Don’t miss them at the Time of wine farms.” – Tuanni Price, Zuri
food wine that goes just as well with Out Market.” – Victor Okolo, Salsify Wine Tasting
butter chicken as it does with apple
pie and cream. R99.99

TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 51


O F F T HE MENU

HAPPY HOUR

Savour the
moment
If you haven’t heard (who are you?), the hottest
drinks trend right now is savoury cocktails.
Jeanne Calitz navigates this brave new world

Savoury While I hit the brakes at


cocktails go anything protein-flavoured,
way beyond others will look down this
the salty rim of road marked by umami, spicy,
your everyday and briny detours, and floor it.
margarita, or Cheers to you, I say. Countless
the umami finish delights await, including the
of your regular Mexican michelada (lager,
bloody Mary. Tabasco, Worcestershire sauce,
We’re talking broths, people. fresh lime and black pepper)
We’re talking miso. We’re or the Asian-style savoury
talking fish sauce and meat- hunter (fresh lime and chillies,
infused spirits. It’s slightly scary gin, coconut cream and fish
to anyone who, like me, has a sauce). Have at it.
confirmed sweet tooth. But it’s In the meantime, I’ll be
also intriguing enough to send sipping on this beautifully
me on a journey of discovery. balanced busy bee, which
What I’ve found is this: it’s all derives its savoury finish from
about balance, and preference, salted cucumber juice. It’s an
and where you fall on the ideal meeting of both worlds
sweet/salt spectrum. Because a – a whisper of honey meets

PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION BIANCA STRYDOM FOOD ASSISTANT RAYMAND BUITENDAG
touch of umami or salt can go slightly salty, cooling cucumber
a long way towards tempering against the backdrop of
the overwhelming sweetness crisp gin and fresh lemon.
of some drinks. The question is: Perfection, particularly on a hot
how salty can you go? summer’s day. W @jtcalitz

THE BUSY BEE cocktail, it goes without fresh lemon juice 1½ t


“For the salted cucumber saying that you should honey water 1 T (mix
juice, juice one standard put away the floral-heavy equal parts honey and
English cucumber. If you pink gin!” hot water)
do this by blending or
grating, then straining, Makes 1 Shake well, then strain
you’ll get about ¼ cup of into a martini glass.
juice. A juicer will deliver In a shaker filled with Garnish with a sprig
more liquid. Either way, ice, combine: of fresh rosemary,
add a pinch of salt and classic English gin 4 T sliced lemon or a slice
chill. And since you’re salted cucumber of cucumber.
making a savoury juice 2 T

52 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N

SOMETHING
INTERESTING
From viral videos to easy sundowners, this summer is all about
cocktails. Keep things interesting with Tanzaro vermouth.
Inspired by traditional Italian apéritifs, it’s made with Cape
botanicals to add freshness to cocktails. Tanzaro Arancia
packs a punch with zesty flavours of Cape naartjie, while
Tanzaro Bianco is slightly sweeter with flavours of juniper
berries, warm spices and Cape fynbos. tanzaro.co.za

SERVING
SUGGESTION
PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION BRITA DU PLESSIS FOOD ASSISTANT JOSH VAN ZYL

Thinly slice 1 cucumber


and a few oranges.
Shape the slices into
rose shapes and place
into square ice moulds.
To make the orange
ice roses, fill the moulds
to a third full with
Tanzaro Arancia or
fresh orange juice,
and top up with water.
Freeze until set. To
make the cucumber
roses, fill the moulds to
a third full with Tanzaro
Bianco and top up with
water. Freeze until set.
To serve, add one part
Tanzaro to a goblet,
top with the ice
roses and two parts
sparkling wine or
soda water.

DRINK RESPONSIBLY. NOT FOR PERSONS UNDER THE AGE OF 18.


O F F THE MENU

PERFECT PAIRINGS

Match points
A Cinsault (chill it, please!), cool-climate Chardonnay and aromatic
Award-winning
sommelier Joseph
Dhafana is also a wine
and food judge
and the founder of
Gewürztraminer are great matches for sommelier Joseph Dhafana’s @mosiwinesandspirits
favourite recipes in this issue

PHOTOGRAPHS JAN RAS AND MANOS CHATZIKONSTANTIS PRODUCTION TESSA KIROS,


Mince koftas Cinsault Angelfish Chardonnay Paneer korma ABIGAIL DONNELLY AND CLEM PEDRO FOOD ASSISTANT ELLAH MAEPA

The Adama Wines Woolworths Cherry I love the Creation Reserve Chardonnay Gewürztraminer
Cinsault (R87.99) is a juicy, light to (R359.99) as a match for the steamed The easy paneer korma with coconut rice
medium-bodied red with vibrant notes angelfish with aromatic garlic-and-ginger on page 95 calls for an elegant wine, and
of cherries, raspberries, plums and oil on page 88. It’s an elegant single- the Simonsig Gewürztraminer (R99.99)
waterberries, and silky tannins. A hint of vineyard wine from the cool climate of the is the ideal bottle to open. Expect aromas
smokiness is complemented by a lingering Hemel-en-Aarde region, and you can look of white roses, fresh litchi and sweet
ripe and spicy finish, making it a delicious forward to vibrant grapefruit and fragrant tropical fruit. On the palate, you’ll discover
match for the cumin mince koftas on page apple, a hint of honey and a sprinkling layers of poached pear, litchi and candied
130. The cumin brings some earthiness to of cinnamon, as well as the characteristic grapefruit, plus spicy notes, incredible
the dish and chillies add spice, both of buttery, vanilla characteristics you’d flavour intensity and a subtle, sweet finish.
which work well with the wine. The acidity expect from a Chardonnay. The wine's The richness of the minted yoghurt needs
in the wine also complements the garlic, bracing acidity works brilliantly with the the fresh acidity of the wine, which also
paprika and coriander. I recommend aromatic flavours of this light and holds up to the coriander, coconut and
serving it chilled, especially in the heat straightforward dish. garlic. Tropical notes complement the
of summer. dried apricots in the recipe.

54 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


JOIN FOR FREE!
Monthly wine vouchers, event invitations and access
to expert advice are just some of the reasons why
you should join SA’s premium wine club now!

R75-OFF
VOUCHER*
FOR ALL NEW
MEMBERS

Members’-only
offers and prizes

SIGN UP NOW!
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with the camera on
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* TERMS AND CONDITIONS APPLY.

DRINK RESPONSIBLY. NOT FOR PERSONS UNDER THE AGE OF 18.


O F F THE MENU

98
words
on...
THE GRAPE SMASH
Also known as the most
refreshing way to enjoy
local grapes, now
at their peak,

PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION BIANCA STRYDOM FOOD ASSISTANT RAYMAND BUITENDAG RECIPE JEANNE CALITZ
says Jeanne Calitz

Start with your star


ingredient: a handful of
fresh, halved red grapes.
Place in a shaker and add
one fresh lime, quartered,
60 ml tequila or white rum,
20 ml simple syrup and a
couple of sprigs of fresh
mint. Muddle well – you
want the grapes to release
their flavour and the skins to
add pink colour to the juice.
Shake with ice until chilled,
then strain into a tumbler
filled with ice. Garnish with
fresh mint and more halved
grapes. Top with sparkling
water if a taller, less sweet,
drink is more to your liking.
Serves 1

56 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N

GET FIZZY
WITH IT
Stay cool with Woolworths’ new sparkling fermented flavoured drinks. Inspired by
traditional drinks such as gemmer and tepache, these drinks are fermented using
yeast and contain no added preservatives. They’re batch-brewed and locally made
using pineapple, ginger and granadilla. Available in on-the-go 330 ml and
family-sized 1-litre bottles. woolworths.co.za
PHOTOGRAPH SADIQAH ASSURISMAIL PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY FOOD ASSISTANT CLAIREELLEN VAN ROOYEN
SC E NE STEALER

FRITE CLUB
Schengen visa sorted? Make the most of it by adding Brussels to your
itinerary. You’ll discover that there’s much more to the Belgian capital
than its famous moules-frites (but you’ll also be eating plenty of those)
TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHS RICHARD HOLMES

58 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


SC E NE ST EA LE R

1
CHEZ LÉON FOR THE BEST MUSSELS IN TOWN
This has been a fixture in Brussels since Léon Vanlancker first opened Friture Léon in 1893.
Today, some 130 years on, it remains a family business, and while the cobbled alley has
become lined with restaurants touting for tourists, Chez Léon remains one of the more
reliable spots for dining near the Grand Place. There’s a selection of Belgian specialties –
consider the lapin à la Kriek, rabbit in cherry beer – but it’s the moules that draw in hungry diners. Here
they’re offered a dozen different ways, but the 800 g casserole steamed with cream, white wine, onions
and herbs – served with frites – remains the best choice. 18 Rue des Bouchers, chezleon.be, @chezleon1893

2 DELIRIUM CAFÉ
FOR ALL THE
BELGIAN BEER
For a comprehensive
taste of local beer,
look no further than
the Delirium “village”
of bars. In 2004
Delirium bagged a
Guinness world record
for offering 2004
different beers, and
while that’s dipped to a mere 1 600 bottled and draught
beers, it remains the most complete beer experience in the
city. The street-level Monasterium feels a little commercial,
with its “metre of beer” tasting platter, but the basement
Delirium Café is wonderfully atmospheric, with a dizzying
choice of brews. Start with Delirium’s excellent own brand
the Delirium Tremens, a swarthy 8.5% Tripel.
4 Impasse de la Fidélité, deliriumvillage.com

3
MAISON DANDOY
FOR TRADITIONAL
SPECULOOS
OPENING PHOTOGRAPH MARCUS LOKE/UNSPLASH.COM

Since 1829 Maison Dandoy


has been a household name
for producing speculoos, the sweet
Belgian butter biscuit redolent with
cinnamon and cloves. Traditionally given
to children for the celebration of Saint
Nicholas on 6 December, you’ll find
them all year round across the city. The
most glamorous option is the Maison
Dandoy café in the Royal Galleries,
where you can buy speculoos to take
away, or settle in for coffee, speculoos
and a Liège-style waffle. 2 Galerie du Roi,
maisondandoy.com, @maisondandoy

TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 59


SC E NE STEALER

5
4
TO MARKET, TO MARKET PARDON FOR AUTHENTIC WAFFLES
FOR FRESH PRODUCE AND BREAD Before you go looking for a “Belgian waffle”, know what you’re
There’s a lively market culture in Brussels. after. Most are in fact Liège-style waffles, made from buttery
Look out for the foodie markets in Place brioche dough enriched with sugar. Pre-cooked, they’re popular
St Catherine (Saturday, 9 am–2 pm) and as a grab-and-go snack across Belgium. A Brussels waffle is made
Place du Châtelain (Wednesday, 2–7 pm). On Thursday with a thin batter that’s cooked to order. At Pardon you get the
evenings (3–9 pm) head for Place du Grand Sablon and best of both worlds. Their waffle batter, made in house, is an
the Marché Gourmet, where locals flock for drinks and original recipe using less sugar and is served with local seasonal
to fill their shopping baskets. From Friday to Sunday toppings – think farm cream infused with lavender or lemon
(7 am–2 pm) the Foodmet market offers a showcase verbena. 36 Rue de Moscou, Saint-Gilles, pardonbrussels.com, @pardonbrussels
of urban renewal in what was once the city’s abbatoir.

6
GARE MARITIME FOR GLOBAL STREET FOOD
In what was once an industrial railway terminus, the Gare Maritime is today a colourful
collection of public spaces, food counters and concept stores. It’s all set beneath
soaring arches of steel and wood, where a dozen food outlets offer everything from
Korean bao to Italian classics. It’s high-tech, with central touch-screen ordering, and
communal tables for sharing. The best seats are outside on the wide terrace overlooking public
gardens, but you’ll need to get there early. 86 Avenue du Port, tour-taxis.com, @tour.taxis

“Their waffles are an original recipe


and served with farm cream infused
with lavender or lemon verbena”

7
MAISON ANTOINE
FOR TRADITIONAL FRITES
Traditional Belgian frites should
be made using hand-cut
potatoes – usually Bintje – and
twice-fried in beef fat. Most locals swear
by Maison Antoine, which has been frying
since 1948. A huge cone will set you back
just €3.70, with an extra euro for your
choice of sauce – tartare maison is the
classic. Enjoy your cone of carbs in Parc
Leopold, a minute’s walk away. Jourdanplein,
Etterbeek, maisonantoine.be, @maison_antoine

60 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


SC E NE ST EA LE R

10
PISTOLET ORIGINAL
FOR LUNCH ON THE GO
The elegant Sablon district
is just a 10-minute wander
south-east of the centre.
Admire the late-Gothic spires of Eglise Notre-

8
Dame de la Chapelle, before seeking out the
strawberry-red awnings of Pistolet Original.
Crispy pistolet rolls are to Belgium what the
baguette is to France, and on weekends the
boulangeries of Brussels will have queues
out the door. At Pistolet Original the best
IN ‘T SPINNEKOPKE FOR A HEARTY MEAL taste of this Belgian classic is the Américain
This charming neighbourhood estaminet – a bar with food – is a cressonnette; a healthy dollop of seasoned (but
thoroughly local favourite that’s just as welcoming to the lucky raw) beef mince topped with piquant pickles
tourists who stumble upon it. The building dates back to 1762 and has and a pile of watercress. At €5.40 it’s great value
long served as a restaurant and inn, making the wooden benches and for lunch. 24–26 Rue Joseph Stevensstraat, pistolet-
low ceilings of the front rooms the most charming place to drink and original.be, @pistolet_original
eat. On the menu you’ll find a compact selection of Belgian dishes
served in an elevated brasserie style. The classic shrimp croquettes
are made by an acclaimed croquetterie, while local butchers provide
the free-range beef cheeks for their traditional Flemish stew. Or try
NEED TO KNOW
the bloempanch, a black pudding with caramelised apple unique to
Getting there: KLM and Air France
Brussels. It’s all washed down with an impressive collection of Belgian
offer direct flights from Cape Town and
beers. Pl. du Jardin aux Fleurs 1, spinnekopke.be, @in_t_spinnekopke
Johannesburg to Amsterdam and Paris,
with easy train connections to Brussels.
klm.com, airfrance.com

9
ELISABETH CHOCOLATIER
FOR ARTISANAL CHOCOLATE Getting around: Public transport
There are chocolate shops on almost links the airport with central Brussels.
every corner of the old town, but The historic centre is small enough to
most are not worth a second glance. explore on foot, but an extensive tram
In the elegant Galeries St-Hubert, celebrity pastry and metro system is available.
chef Pierre Marcolini has the flagship of his Haute
Chocolaterie while, alongside, Neuhaus (est. 1857) Guided tours: If you want local intel,
lays claim to being the first praline-maker in the look no further than Hungry Mary
city. They’re both excellent, but expensive. A Food Tours. You’ll enjoy a four-hour
Goldilocks option is Elisabeth Chocolatier, which wander that delves into the history
sources artisanal sweets across Belgium, including of the city through its finest
pralines by chocolatier Frederic Blondeel. His chocolatiers, restaurants and bars.
experimental flavours are a delight. 43 Rue au Beurre, hungrymary.com
elisabeth.be, @elisabeth_chocolatier

TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 61


A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N

The first bite of the season’s stone fruit always spells summer. And for the very best and
brightest harvest of yellow and white nectarines, velvet-skinned yellow clings, pert apricots
and ruby-hued plums, you know where to go. If there’s a way to add stone fruit to summer
dishes, we’ll find it. Try nectarines with cured prosciutto and creamy burrata, grill peaches
over the coals to serve with the best ice cream, roast apricots and make home-made “jam”
turnovers with the kids, or impress guests with a layered dessert of wine-poached fruit with
creamy yoghurt and a sprinkling of Muscovado sugar. Or just fill up a bowl and savour the
sun-ripened bounty all summer long. woolworths.co.za
SERVING SUGGESTION
Preheat the oven to 200°C. Combine 1 cup Woolworths
coffee, almond, and hazelnut granola and 100 g crushed
Tennis biscuits in a bowl. Spread on a baking sheet and bake
for 7 minutes. Set aside to cool. Beat 1 cup whipping cream
at high speed using an electric beater until stiff peaks form.
In another bowl, combine 1/2 cup cream cheese, 1/2 cup
mascarpone, 100 g icing sugar and 1 t vanilla paste. Beat
until well combined. Fold in the whipped cream. Cube
2 plums, 2 nectarines and 2 peaches and toss with 50 g
brown sugar. Spoon the crust into dessert glasses, top with
the cheesecake mixture and fruit. Repeat until the glasses are
filled. Sprinkle with remaining crust if desired. Chill for at least
1 hour before serving.
JACQUELINE BURGESS FOOD ASSISTANT LERATO MOTAU
PHOTOGRAPH SADIQAH ASSURISMAIL PRODUCTION
TASTES THAT BIND

Whose dinner?
When cooking for one, Sam Woulidge relies on free-range eggs and
Mrs Beeton's instructions for the perfect fluffy omelette

I ’ve been looking at the whole girl dinner


thing on TikTok with a side-eye. A few
olives, a slice of ham, a couple of pieces of
obsessed with is apparently an English
invention and I owe much gratitude to
Mrs Beeton, who left the world careful
Gabrielle Hamilton, which is now no more.
(Sadly, a Covid casualty but her words live
on; her memoir Blood, Bones, and Butter is a
cheese, a tomato or two? That’s not supper. instructions in Mrs Beeton’s Book of must-read, and do search for her old New
That’s a snack. Eaten straight from the Household Management. Much as I love York Times columns online.) On her dinner
fridge while you decide what you’re going the French omelette as served in fancy menu was, surprisingly, an omelette, served
to make for supper. A girl dinner, as far as French restaurants, I am intimidated by with a sprinkling of Parmigiano Reggiano
50-something me can recall, was a tub of the thought of Larousse Gastronomique’s and cracked salt. It was perfection. We
decent ice cream, a large packet of chips precise dictates of using only eggs, butter, ordered it for Seb because he was only five
and last night’s leftover wine. salt and a frying pan. This requires a level of and we thought it would be a good kid’s
I still like to end off the day with delight, expertise of which I’m simply not capable. meal. It was. But we grown-ups wanted it
not denial, so my choice of solo supper But I have managed the art of the fluffy too. Because omelettes are for everyone.
needs to be a bit more indulgent, but omelette served alongside a large glass of The other was on a girls’ trip to Paris with
also no more time-consuming to make good wine and a small leafy salad. Perfect my friend Jocelyn. We had dinner at the
than a cheese toastie. Enter the omelette. for the rare occasions when I’m alone while swanky Hotel Costes, where the DJ, the

PORTRAIT MICHAEL LE GRANGE PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION BIANCA STRYDOM FOOD ASSISTANT RAYMAND BUITENDAG
Nourishing and comforting but able Jacques and Seb go camping. playlist, the gloriously scented candles and
to hold its own in any surroundings, the Some may argue that omelettes, even the gorgeous interiors surpassed anything
omelette will always get my vote. It’s the truly great ones, should only be served we could find to eat on the eye-wateringly
smarter than a casual scrambled egg, for breakfast. Once I may even have agreed expensive menu. But amid the foie gras
more dressed up than a fried one, and with them. But no more. Because I have and snails was the reassuring presence
far more impressive than a boiled egg. had two spectacular, sensational in their of une omelette. We ordered it with an
An omelette feels special; as if you’ve simplicity, French-style omelettes for enormous side order of thin fries and an
gone to a bit of trouble to make something dinner in two rather wonderful restaurants. excellent assortment of wine. Now that,
nice out of, well, an egg. The first was at Prune in New York, the my friends, is a true girl dinner. W
The soufflé-like omelette I’m currently iconic East Village Restaurant owned by @samwoulidge, confessionsofahungrywoman.com

CHEESE SOUFFLÉ butter a knob gently smooth it out so it covers the


OMELETTE surface of the pan. 5 Cover with a
“Serve with a glass of good wine or 1 Beat the egg yolks until well lid and cook over a medium heat for
bubbles and a leafy salad (Crunchita with mixed. Add a good crack of salt and about 2 minutes until the base is nicely
a splash of white balsamic condiment).” pepper. Add 100 g grated cheese browned and the top is barely set. Add
and mix well. 2 Beat the egg whites the last of the cheese and cover with
Serves 1 (I use my trusty stand-mixer) until stiff the lid for another minute until the top
EASY peaks form (like when you’re making has set. 6 You may want to quickly flip
GREAT VALUE meringues). When using an electric the omelette over in the pan to lightly
Preparation: 3–4 minutes mixer this takes about 3 minutes. tan the top. This is not very French, nor is
Cooking: 3–4 minutes 3 Gently fold half the egg whites into it cheffy. But I do it because I’m not a fan
the cheesy yolks and mix until you of underdone eggs. Then carefully slide
large free-range eggs 3, separated have a nicely mixed, loose base. Lightly the omelette out of the pan and onto
sea salt and freshly ground black fold in the remaining egg whites. the plate, folding it over itself into
pepper, to taste 4 Melt the butter in a large non-stick a perfect, fluffy half-moon.
grated cheese 120 g (any cheese will pan over a lowish heat and, when the MEAT-FREE, WHEAT- AND
do, Gruyère would be great but a good butter starts gently foaming, scrape GLUTEN-FREE
Cheddar also works wonderfully) the soufflé mixture into the pan and WINE: Graham Beck Brut

64 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 TEXT SAM WOULIDGE


TAST ES T H AT BI ND

“I have mastered the art


of the fluffy omelette
served with a glass of
wine and leafy salad”

TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 65


TASTES L IKE MORE

Family roots
Food writer Nabo Binase recalls the lessons she learnt in her grandmother’s
garden and kitchen that have shaped and enriched her own food journey

hen I think about my grandmother, On summer weekends, we would wake


W Nombulelo Binase, I’m flooded with
memories of the magical world she wove
up with the sun to harvest the treasures
of the earth. Cabbages, spinach, carrots,
Ukutya co-founder
Nabo Binase is a
through the tapestry of food. Our rural potatoes, pumpkins. The colours and culinary enthusiast
and storyteller
home in eMthini, eMachubeni at Lady Frere aromas of our garden were a feast for the with a passion for
in the Eastern Cape was a sanctuary. I was senses. Each crop had its own unique celebrating ancestral
her trusted sous chef, her eager apprentice, story and we beamed with pride in the ways of eating.
and it was amid comforting aromas and the knowledge that we had planted everything @chumanabo
clattering of pots and pans that our food with our own hands. The bond we shared
journey together began. as we transformed our harvest into a
It was from her that I learnt to master delectable feast for two was unbreakable. words, the grandmothers in my village
the art of sweet, buttered carrots, creamy My grandmother’s message was clear: taught me cooking methods and recipes
mashed potatoes and crunchy greens. she adored the authentic flavours of that had been cherished in our community
She also entrusted me with watching over homegrown vegetables and believed for years, so I learnt the importance of
the garden while she dashed off on an that less was more, often advocating preserving the knowledge that had been
errand in town or sent me out to pick for just one or two key ingredients on passed down through generations. These
ingredients for dinner. These small tasks the plate. women showed me how to knead dough
became significant responsibilities and I recall watching her pluck a ripe tomato for traditional bread and create stews
I soon found myself in charge of preparing from the vine, slice it, and season it simply from different cuts of meat. I was taught
our daily side dishes. with a pinch of salt for us to enjoy as how to ferment amarhewu and make
a snack. A symphony of freshness and umqombothi. And when the village
flavour. “Let the ingredients speak for women came to us to visit, they requested
themselves” was a lesson forever permission to forage for edible weeds in
etched into my memory. our garden. Blackjack, amaranth and nettle.
Little did she know, however, that Their cooking, like my grandmother’s, was
while I was out visiting friends at their rooted in the seasonal and the local. Meals
homes, I was also exploring the diverse always reflected what the environment had
foods of our community, and their unique to offer. This was true farm-to-table cooking
preparations. This was something I was before it became a trend, and I will always
strictly forbidden to do. “Sukuhamba be grateful that our meals together were
usitya, Nabo,” she would say (“Don’t history lessons, connecting us to our roots.
go eating at strangers’ houses, Nabo”). As I grew older, these lessons I learnt in
But, driven by an insatiable curiosity and the sanctuary of my grandmother’s kitchen
ILLUSTRATION JESSICA BAILEY PORTRAIT MBASA WELEMU

a growing love for the rich culinary and garden continued to influence my
traditions of my village, I was taking relationship with food, and I still visit her
my first steps into the world of food for inspiration whenever I get the chance.
exploration. As I ventured beyond our She reminds me to always honour the
home, I discovered new ingredients and ingredients, find joy in the process of
techniques, each household unveiling cooking, not to worry about complicated
its secrets and flavours to me. techniques and use simple seasonings to
Through their actions, rather than allow the true essence of the produce to
shine. This sweet simplicity in the kitchen
has instilled in me the deep understanding
“Food doesn’t just provide that food doesn’t just provide sustenance
sustenance for the body, for the body; it is also a medium for
it’s also a vessel for culture” storytelling, a vessel for culture, and
nourishment for the soul. W

66 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 TEXT NABO BINASE


A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N

GO WITH THE GRAIN


Ancient grains are still big players on the food scene. Did you know last year was the year
of millet? Woolworths’ range of fully cooked grains features new additions including bulgur
wheat, sorghum, quinoa and other fully cooked legumes. They’re super convenient and take
the hassle out of meal preparation. Add to salads, soups and casseroles, or serve as a side
dish. With so many options, we predict these grains will continue their wholesome takeover
well into the future. woolworths.co.za

SERVING
SUGGESTION
Heat 250 g
Woolworths
fully cooked
sorghum and
quinoa mix. Toss
with 15 g
chopped
parsley and 2
chopped spring
onions. Add
125 g sliced
exotic
tomatoes, 2
charred cobs
sweetcorn,
3 sliced
nectarines,
1 sliced
avocado
and 1 round
crumbled feta.
Drizzle over
Woolworths’
PHOTOGRAPH SADIQAH ASSURISMAIL PRODUCTION BRITA DU PLESSIS FOOD ASSISTANT JOSH VAN ZYL

basil and white


balsamic
dressing and
toss.
I ND IG ENOUS
G EN IUS

Taming the beast


While eating her way around SA for the Eat Out Woolworths Restaurant Awards, Mokgadi Itsweng was
so impressed by a dish from Belly of the Beast that it inspired her to recreate her own version

A s a plant-based diner, my first visit


to Belly of the Beast in Cape Town
was one for the books. The name alone
My version of the tomato curry sauce has
tamarind in it and is based on my granny’s
tamarind fish curry recipe (without the fish).
sea salt and freshly ground black
pepper, to taste

conjured images of a real butcher’s delight, I make a tempura-style batter for the For the salsa:
and I expected a dark, moody space with cabbage, which lightly coats it and keeps it tomatoes 2, seeded and diced
animal heads and horns adorning the walls. moist and soft inside the crispy coating. pickled onions 1 t, chopped
I knew that my two lunch companions, The crispy cabbage works well with the lemon juice 1 T
both big meat-eaters, were super-excited to curry sauce and the creamy basmati rice olive oil 2 T
get acquainted with “the beast”. But I was foam, creating the perfect balance of honey 1 t
a little more hesitant. I made sure to call flavour and texture. Crispy onions and salt ¼ t
ahead to double-check that I had made my sliced deep-fried curry leaves add extra
vegetarian diet and allergies clear, and felt flavour and crunch. For the fried cabbage:
reassured when the staff member on the When I eat this dish, it reminds me of the baby cabbages 2, quartered with the
other end of the line seemed completely love and respect the chefs at Belly of The core holding the leaves together
unperturbed by my dietary requirements. Best have for their produce, which can be water 1½ litres
To my pleasant surprise, the interior of tasted in every bite on the menu. And I feel salt 1 t
the restaurant was not as I’d imagined, and happy, inspired, and excited about the local
I was immediately captivated by the open- food industry. W For the batter:
fire kitchen and its tattooed chefs. This get- flour 120 g
together with my sisters promised to be cornflour 1 T
an afternoon filled with good food, good FRIED CABBAGE WITH ice-cold sparkling water 1 cup
wine, laughter and joy. TOMATO CURRY, SALSA, salt 1 t
I’m happy to say that the six-course AND CRISPY CURRY pepper 1 t
tasting menu with wine pairing was filled LEAVES ice cube 1
with some of the most interesting
vegetable morsels I’ve ever had. The Cape Serves 4 to 6 For the basmati rice foam:
Malay influence was evident in how the A LITTLE EFFORT cooked basmati rice 160 g
chef had played with spices, pickles and GREAT VALUE water 2 cups
flavour combinations, making each dish a Preparation: 1 hour, plus sunflower oil 1 T
delicious exploration. The wine server also 30 minutes’ marinating time
took us on a journey of discovering local, Cooking: 1 hour sunflower oil 1 cup, for deep-frying
handmade and unfiltered wines, which crispy onions 30 g, for serving
worked perfectly with the flavourful dishes. For the tomato curry: fresh curry leaves 10, sliced and
From the delicious roosterkoek bread oil 3 T deep fried
course to the risotto and the coconut Cape Malay curry spice 2 T microgreens 20 g, for serving
koeksister dessert, every dish was perfectly cumin seeds 1 t
executed, but my absolute highlight was fennel seeds ½ t 1 To make the tomato curry, heat the oil
the fried cabbage. The humble veg, dried curry leaves 1 T in a pan then add the Cape Malay spice,
encased in a light, crispy batter, was served onion 1, finely chopped cumin, fennel and curry leaves and cook
with a sweet-and-sour tomato curry sauce, garlic 3 cloves, crushed over a medium heat for 3 minutes. Add
basmati rice foam, tomato-and-onion salsa, fresh ginger 1 t grated the onion, garlic and ginger and cook for
and topped with crispy onions and curry chopped tomatoes 1 x 400 g can a further 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes,
leaves. I’d never eaten cabbage like that tomato paste 4 T tomato paste, sugar, and tamarind water.
before. It was so incredibly good that brown sugar 1 T Cook for 20 minutes, stirring continuously,
I dreamed of it often, to the point where tamarind pulp 1 T, dissolved in ½ cup adding a little water if necessary. Add salt
I simply had to try to replicate it. hot water and pepper to taste; the sauce should be

68 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


IN DI GE NOU S GE NI US
PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION BIANCA STRYDOM FOOD ASSISTANT RAYMAND BUITENDAG

“When I eat this, it reminds me of the love and respect


the chefs at Belly of the Beast have for their produce”

well-reduced and full of flavour. Set aside dropping in a small bit of batter. If it floats on the plate, then place 1 T tomato curry
and keep warm. 2 To make the salsa, mix and crisps up immediately, the oil is ready. on top of the rice foam. Place the fried
the tomatoes and onions. In a separate 6 Dip the cabbage quarters into the batter, cabbage on top of the tomato curry, then
bowl, whisk the lemon juice, oil, honey and then gently tap off any excess and place in the salsa next to the cabbage. Top with the
salt until well combined. Add the dressing the oil. Fry for 3 minutes on each side until onions, curry leaves and microgreens.
to the tomato mixture. Marinate for at least golden brown. Remove from the oil using a HEALTH-CONSCIOUS, DAIRY-FREE,
30 minutes before serving. 3 Place the slotted spoon, then drain on kitchen paper. MEAT-FREE
cabbage in a wide bowl, with the leaves Set aside and keep warm in a low oven. WINE: Jordan Origami Merlot
facing up. Bring the water and salt to a slow 7 To make the rice foam, blend the rice
boil, then pour over the cabbage, making and water until smooth. Remove from the
sure it’s completely submerged. Cover the blender and strain through muslin cloth, Cookbook author and
bowl and leave to soak for 10 minutes. squeezing to remove the rice milk from food activist Mokgadi
Drain, pat the cabbage dry using kitchen the pulp. Keep the pulp for later use as a Itsweng was a judge
for the 2023 Eat Out
paper and set aside. 4 Mix all the batter thickener for stews or sauces. 8 Place the Woolworths
ingredients until smooth and light. Add the rice milk and sunflower oil in a blender and Restaurant Awards.
ice cube to keep it cold. 5 Heat the oil in a blend at high speed until the milk is light @mokgadiitsweng
deep saucepan. Check the temperature by and foamy. 9 To serve, place 2 T rice foam

TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 69


A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N

THE CHILL FACTOR


The difference between an average picnic and a memorable one is not just the food.
(Yes, we just said that.) You also need the right accessories. Keep drinks ice-cold and your
feast fresh with Woolworths’ range of insulated cooler bags, picnic totes and double-walled
stainless steel bottles. The range is designed using classy fabrics that are convenient and easy
to clean, so get your party started – outside. woolworths.co.za
PHOTOGRAPH SADIQAH ASSURISMAIL PRODUCTION
BRITA DU PLESSIS FOOD ASSISTANT JOSH VAN ZYL
S UM ME R P RO DU CE

72 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


S UM ME R P RO DU CE

MANGO NOODLES
Anyone who says fruit WITH CARAMEL HAKE
AND TIGER'S MILK
is reserved for sweet R42 PER SERVING
dishes has never tried
Abigail Donnelly’s caramel
hake and mango noodles,
her new take on “poké”
or pork-chop tagliata
with pickled blueberries
PHOTOGRAPHS JAN RAS RECIPES
AND PRODUCTION ABIGAIL
DONNELLY FOOD ASSISTANTS EMMA
NKUNZANA AND CHERI KUSTNER

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S UM ME R P RO DU CE

BOWL OF JOY
This salad is Abigail’s
new take on a poké
bowl – you'll love the
combination of the
fresh ingredients.
You can add noodles,
rice or pasta if you
want to make it go
a bit further.

THE NEW “POKÉ” BOWL


WITH NECTARINES
AND CREAMY GOAT'S
CHEESE SALSA
R26 PER SERVING

“Sharp goat’s
cheese,
pungent
basil and
briny
olives work
beautifully
with the
sweet
nectarines”

74 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


PORK TAGLIATA WITH
PICKLED BLUEBERRIES
R33 PER SERVING

BOTTLE IT!
Keep the pickled
blueberries in a jar or
bottle in the fridge
for up to two weeks.
They’re a great
addition to summer
slaws and delicious
with strawberry ice
cream, too.

TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 75


S UM ME R P RO DU CE

MANGO NOODLES WITH and briny olives work beautifully with the sweet
CARAMEL HAKE AND nectarines. Add some penne to feed a crowd.”
TIGER’S MILK
“Summer fruit “Mango is my favourite summer fruit. Serves 4
holds such We eat a lot of this dish at home, sometimes EASY
special substituting the fish with tempeh, yuzu tofu GREAT VALUE
or pork fillet.” Preparation: 15 minutes
memories for Cooking: 10–15 minutes
me. My gran Serves 4
would import EASY free-range skinless boneless chicken
GREAT VALUE breasts 4
boxes of white Preparation: 15 minutes almond milk 2 cups
peaches to Cooking: 15 minutes ripe nectarines 4, quartered
store in the avocados 2, halved
sunflower oil 2 T parsley, to garnish
back room hake 4 x 150 g portions radishes, thinly sliced, to garnish
cupboard to coconut sugar 2 T
ripen. We’d coconut cream 1 cup For the salsa, mix:
mango juice ¼ cup basil 12 leaves, shredded
eat them by lime juice 2 T Woolworths chevin 1 x 100 g log
the pool, sticky lime zest 1 t sea salt and freshly ground black
juices dripping fish sauce 1 T pepper, to taste
red chillies 2, chopped pitted green olives 12, diced
down our arms. fresh ginger 1 t minced olive oil 2 T
Mangoes were fresh turmeric 1 t minced coconut water ¼ cup
a treat to be garlic 1 t minced ponzu sauce 2 T
mangoes 2, sliced or chopped
eaten on the egg noodles 3 nests, cooked 1 Place the chicken in a pan. Add the
way home from coriander, for serving almond milk and simmer, covered, for 10
school – the basil, shredded, for serving minutes. Allow to cool, then remove from
mint shredded, for serving the pan and slice. 2 Place the nectarines on
white dried spring onions 2, chopped a plate and top with the chicken, avocado,
pips discarded sesame seeds, toasted, for serving parsley, radishes and salsa.
behind us WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE
For the dressing, mix: WINE: Cederberg Chenin Blanc
along the road sesame oil 2 t
were there to rice vinegar 4 t PORK TAGLIATA WITH
mark our route PICKLED BLUEBERRIES
1 Cut out 4 pieces of greaseproof paper “An easy pickle gives you a flavour-packed
long after the slightly bigger than the fish. Heat the oil in side for pork chops. Just add slaw!”
season was a pan. Place the paper in the pan and top
over. And I love with the fish. 2 Cook for 5 minutes over a Serves 4
high heat. Turn, removing the paper, and EASY
our annual cook for 4 minutes. 3 Add the coconut GREAT VALUE
cherry-picking sugar and cream, mango and lime juice, Preparation: 15 minutes
outing – we zest, fish sauce, chillies, ginger, turmeric Cooking: 15 minutes
and garlic. Cook for 3 minutes. 4 Serve on
bottle them a platter with the remaining ingredients. For the pickled blueberries:
with Port to eat Drizzle over the dressing. blueberries 500 g
throughout DAIRY-FREE Woolworths cranberry vinegar ¼ cup
WINE: Kanonkop Kadette Pinotage Rosé water 1 cup
the year.” sugar 120 g
– Abigail THE NEW “POKÉ” BOWL salt 1 T
Donnelly WITH NECTARINES juniper berries 4
AND CREAMY GOAT’S bay leaves 4
CHEESE SALSA fresh ginger 1 x 5 cm piece, sliced
“This salad is packed with great complementary butter 2 T
flavours – sharp goat’s cheese, pungent basil olive oil 2 T

76 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


RASPBERRY PEACH
MELBA SUNDAE WITH
PISTACHIO MACAROONS
R19 PER SERVING

CHERRIES ON ICE
WITH COCONUT
CHUCKLES SAUCE
R21 PER SERVING

thyme 2 sprigs Preparation: 20 minutes 15 minutes, then allow to cool. 5 Place the
sage 6 leaves Cooking: 20 minutes peaches into a bowl and add scoops of the
pork shoulder chops 4 frozen raspberries. Serve with the cream
salt, to taste ripe peaches 4 and macaroons.
apple juice 2 cups WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE
1 To make the pickled blueberries, place Woolworths frozen raspberries 400 g WINE: Woolworths Strawberry Rosé
all the ingredients in a pan and simmer for icing sugar 2 T
5 minutes. Pour into sterilised jars and seal. Woolworths UHT whipping cream, CHERRIES ON ICE
Cool and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks. whipped, for serving (optional) WITH COCONUT
2 Melt the butter and olive oil in a pan. CHUCKLES SAUCE
Add the thyme, sage and chops and fry for For the macaroons: “Show off your harvest of fresh cherries
5 minutes on each side. 3 Allow the chops coconut sugar 1 T with this easy dessert that also stars
to rest for 5 minutes, then slice and serve free-range egg whites 2, beaten Woolies’ Chuckles clusters.”
with the pickled blueberries. pistachios 12, shelled
WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE Serves 4
WINE: Kleine Zalze Cabernet 1 Make a small cross incision into the base EASY
Sauvignon Cinsault of the peaches. Place in a saucepan and GREAT VALUE
add the apple juice. 2 Place a piece of Preparation: 5 minutes
RASPBERRY PEACH greaseproof paper directly on top of the Cooking: 10 minutes
MELBA SUNDAE WITH peaches and simmer for 15 minutes. Allow
PISTACHIO MACAROONS to cool. 3 Blend the raspberries and icing For the sauce:
“Make a double batch of macaroons to store sugar, then spoon into a container and Woolworths Chuckles coconut ice
in the freezer for next time.” freeze. 4 To make the macaroons, preheat clusters 140 g
the oven to 180°C. Mix the coconut sugar cream 1 cup
Serves 4 and egg whites. Roll the mixture into rough
EASY balls and place on a lined baking tray. cherries 400 g
GREAT VALUE Press a pistachio into each one. Bake for

TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 77


S UM ME R P RO DU CE

WATERMELON, CUCUMBER AND


GRAPE SALAD WITH HERBED RICOTTA
GET THE JUICE
R21 PER SERVING For top-quality fruit, look out
for the Flavourburst range, only
available at Woolies. Enjoy as
snacks, or add them to your
favourite summer recipes.

FLAVOURBURST
BLUEBERRIES
Flavourburst
blueberries are
perfectly balanced
and sweet,
making them perfect for desserts,
smoothies and savoury dishes.
Blueberry-and-soya glazed duck
anyone? R94.99 for 360 g

FLAVOURBURST
YELLOW FLESH
NECTARINES
These nectarines
are fragrant,
sweet and juicy –
just as good enjoyed on their own
as they are roasted for desserts
or baked in cakes.
R64.99 for 6

FLAVOURBURST
WHITE
1 To make the sauce, melt the Chuckles Woolworths creamed ricotta 200 g NECTARINES
with the cream in a saucepan and whisk watermelon chunks 12 These nectarines
until combined. 2 To serve, fill a bowl with baby cucumbers 6, thinly sliced are sweet with low acidity, making
them perfect for salads and
ice and place the cherries on the ice. Serve green grapes 1 bunch
pairing with strong flavours such as
the sauce on the side for dipping. dill 2 T chopped, to garnish
soya sauce or vinegars.
WINE: Ken Forrester Noble Late Harvest parsley 2 T chopped, to garnish Kids will love them on their own,
too. R64.99 for 6
WATERMELON, For the dressing, mix:
CUCUMBER AND lime juice 4 T
GRAPE SALAD WITH honey 1 T
HERBED RICOTTA FLAVOURBURST
“The lime-and-honey dressing is the perfect 1 Preheat the oven to 200°C. Place the GEM
AVOCADOS
sweet-sour combo. This is a great dish for ricotta in a baking dish and bake for 10
Buttery and
bulking up with cooked grains or butter beans.” minutes, or until golden. 2 Halve the ricotta
creamy with a unique nutty
and place on a plate. Add the remaining flavour and smooth texture, these
Serves 4 ingredients and garnish with the herbs. avocados are the perfect addition
EASY Drizzle over the dressing. to any Mexican-inspired dish or
GREAT VALUE MEAT-FREE, WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE smoothie. Their large size makes
Preparation: 15 minutes WINE: Woolworths Signature Red Blend them perfect for feeding a crowd.
Cooking: 10 minutes R99.99 for 4

78 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


S UM ME R P RO DU CE

STRAWBERRY TART ice-cold water 1 T 3 Unwrap the pastry and roll out to a
WITH LEMON POSSET almond extract 1 t thickness of 5 mm on a lightly floured
“This luscious tart is light and refreshing board. Line a 23 cm tart case with the
and not loaded with sugar.” For the lemon posset: pastry, leaving a bit over the edges. 4 Prick
cream 4 cups all over with a fork. Line with greaseproof
Serves 6 Woolworths orange blossom honey 2 T paper and fill with baking beans or rice.
EASY lemon juice 2 T Bake for 20 minutes. Cool and remove the
GREAT VALUE paper and rice. 5 To make the lemon
Preparation: 30 minutes, plus strawberries 400 g, sliced posset, heat the cream and honey in a pan
2½ hours’ chilling time caster sugar 1 T over a high heat. Remove from the heat
Cooking: 20 minutes and whisk in the lemon juice. Pour into a
1 To make the pastry, place the flours, sugar bowl and chill for 2 hours. 6 Mix the
For the pastry: and butter in a food processor and process strawberries and caster sugar and allow to
flour 250 g until it resembles breadcrumbs. 2 Whisk macerate for 15 minutes. 7 Spoon the
almond flour 50 g together the egg, water and almond posset into the pastry case and top with
caster sugar 2 T extract. Add to the flour mixture and the strawberries.
chilled butter 175 g process to make a ball of pastry. Wrap WINE: Le Lude Rosé Cap Classique
free-range egg yolk 1 in clingwrap and chill for 30 minutes.

TIME SAVER
If you don’t have time to
chill the posset in the fridge
for 2 hours, place it in the
freezer for 30 minutes.

STRAWBERRY TART WITH


LEMON POSSET
R35 PER SERVING

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80 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


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Go virtuous – not flavourless – with Clem Pedro’s post-holiday


recipes, lightly steamed. Break out the bamboo for pillowy
bread, feel-good fish, veg, rice and wontons in broth
PHOTOGRAPHS JAN RAS RECIPES CLEM PEDRO PRODUCTION ABIGAIL
DONNELLY AND CLEM PEDRO FOOD ASSISTANT ELLAH MAEPA

CHICKEN-AND-
MUSHROOM WONTONS
IN CHICKEN BROTH

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STEAMED TOFU AND
GREENS WITH BLACK
GARLIC VINAIGRETTE

STEAMED BRINJALS
WITH SWEET SOYA
AND SZECHUAN SALT

ACID TEST
Use white or brown vinegar to make
the sweet soya sauce (rice vinegar
would make it a little too sweet).

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EXPERT TIP
The vinaigrette develops more
flavour the longer it stands. Make
it the day before, or make a large
batch to keep in the fridge.

“These
brinjals are
my kind
of summer
lunch. They
are amazing
with rice
or as part
of an Asian-
inspired
spread”

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CHICKEN-AND- Woolworths exotic mushrooms Woolworths shimeiji mushrooms 150 g


MUSHROOM WONTONS 300 g, finely diced
IN CHICKEN BROTH chicken mince 300 g 1 In a large mixing bowl combine the
“We grow up associating certain foods sesame oil 2 T mushrooms, mince, sesame oil, garlic,
with moments of happiness and nostalgia. garlic 1 T finely grated or chopped ginger and soya sauce. 2 Place a generous
As we get older, we add to our list of what we ginger 1 T finely grated or chopped teaspoonful of filling in the centre of each
consider to be comfort food. This is definitely soya sauce ¼ cup wonton wrapper, then dip your finger
one of those dishes for me. The rich chicken frozen wonton wrappers 36, thawed into a little water and run it along the
broth and mouthwatering wontons deliver Woolworths crispy onion sprinkle, edges of the wrapper. Bring the opposite
instant feel-good flavour.” to garnish corners together, pinching to seal. Repeat
this process with the remaining wrappers
Serves 4 For the broth: and filling. 3 Line a steamer with a piece
EASY Woolworths organic liquid chicken of baking paper with a few holes in it and
Preparation: 40 minutes stock 2 x 500 ml cartons place the wontons in the basket. Fill a
Cooking: 20 minutes Woolworths chicken bone broth saucepan with water to a quarter full and
2 x 125 ml sachets place over a medium heat. Bring to a boil,
then place the basket over it and cover with
the lid. Steam for 7 minutes or until the
wrappers are slightly translucent. You may
need to steam the wontons in batches. 4 In
a separate saucepan, combine the chicken
stock and bone broth and place over a
medium heat. Heat until just simmering,
then reduce the heat to low to keep warm.
5 Once all the wontons are cooked, break
the shimeiji mushrooms into smaller
bunches and place in the steamer. Remove
the steamer from the pan and keep the lid
on for 1 minute to cook the mushrooms.
6 Divide the wontons between serving
bowls, adding some of the shimeji
mushrooms to each bowl. Pour over the
broth and sprinkle with the crispy onions.
DAIRY-FREE
WINE: Saronsberg Earth and Sky
White Blend

STEAMED TOFU AND


GREENS WITH BLACK
GARLIC VINAIGRETTE
“I’m adding versatile tofu to my must-use list
for 2024. It’s a canvas for flavour. With the
black garlic vinaigrette, it becomes sweet,
tangy and full of umami. The sweet greens
add another flavour note but feel free to use
any seasonal veggies.”

Serves 4
EASY
Preparation: 15 minutes
Cooking: 10 minutes
STEAMED TAHINI MILK
BREAD WITH PICKLED For the vinaigrette:
CUCUMBER AND NUTTY Woolworths black garlic
SRIRACHA DUST 6 cloves, finely chopped
R66 PER SERVING rice vinegar ½ cup
low-sodium soya sauce ½ cup
limes 2, juiced

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I’ve always gravitated


towards cooking with direct
heat – over coals or with
other techniques that create
that golden-brown, sticky
finish we all crave. But there’s
a kind of food magic that can
only be achieved with steam.
It’s about locking in moisture,
creating silky texture, and
bringing ingredients together
while allowing their true
flavours and aromas to shine.
– Clem Pedro

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SWAP SHOP
You could use any
sustainably caught,
firm-fleshed fish
instead of angelfish.

STEAMED ANGELFISH
WITH AROMATIC GARLIC-
AND-GINGER OIL
R47 PER SERVING

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bird’s-eye chilli 1, finely chopped


sugar 1 t SILKY STEAMED EGGS
WITH TOGARASHI-INSPIRED
Woolworths Morinaga Mori-nu silken CITRUS SEASONING
extra-firm tofu 1 x 349 g carton R35 PER SERVING
Woolworths shelled edamame
beans 110 g
mangetout 125 g

1 To make the vinaigrette, combine all the


ingredients and stir until all the sugar has
dissolved. 2 Line a steamer with baking
paper with a few holes cut into it. Arrange
the tofu, edamame and mangetout on
the baking paper. Place the steamer over a
saucepan of boiling water over a high heat
and steam for 10 minutes. 3 Keep the lid
on the basket to keep the tofu and greens
warm and place on the table ready to
serve. Allow your guests to help themselves
and spoon over the vinaigrette.
PLANT-BASED
WINE: West Coast Organic Low
Sulphur Pinotage

STEAMED BRINJALS
WITH SWEET SOYA
AND SZECHUAN SALT
“This is my kind of summer lunch. It’s
amazing when served with rice but can
also be part of an Asian-inspired spread,
with extra sauce served on the side.”

Serves 4
EASY
Preparation: 10 minutes SUNNY SIDE
Cooking: 25 minutes This egg dish is also
delicious served at room
brinjals 2 temperature with rice.
Szechuan peppercorns 3 T
Maldon sea salt 4 T
limes 2, halved

For the rice balls: until completely soft. 2 To make the rice with the rice balls, Szechuan salt and limes.
Woolworths Asian-inspired fully balls, heat the rice according to package PLANT-BASED
cooked rice 1 x 300 g packet instructions. Once cool enough to handle, WINE: Waterford Rose-Mary Rosé
Woolworths Asian sushi nori 2 sheets divide the rice into 8–10 equally sized balls.
black sesame seeds 3 T 3 Cut the nori into strips just long enough STEAMED TAHINI MILK
to wrap around the rice balls. Wrap the nori BREAD WITH PICKLED
For the sweet soya sauce: around the rice, then dip into the sesame CUCUMBER AND NUTTY
Woolworths Asian sweet Indonesian- seeds for a crunchy, decorative garnish. 4 To SRIRACHA DUST
style soya sauce ¾ cup make the sweet soya sauce, combine the “Steamed bread is all about that soft, warm
white or brown vinegar ½ cup soya sauce, vinegar and sesame oil. 5 Crush pillowy texture. This bread is no different, but
sesame oil 2 T the Szechuan peppercorns using a mortar the black tahini adds a slightly nutty, earthy
and pestle, then mix with the Maldon salt. flavour that pairs so well with the sweet-
1 Place the brinjals in a steamer over 6 Place the brinjals on a platter. Cut open tangy pickled cucumber.”
a saucepan of boiling water over a and peel back the skin to reveal the flesh.
medium heat. Steam for 20 minutes, or Pour over the sweet soya sauce and serve Serves 6

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EASY MEAT-FREE to package instructions and serve with the


GREAT VALUE WINE: DMZ Pinot Noir fish and pak choi.
Preparation: 40 minutes, plus DAIRY-FREE
1½ hours’ proving time STEAMED ANGELFISH WINE: HER Adama Chenin Blanc
Cooking: 10 minutes WITH AROMATIC GARLIC-
AND-GINGER OIL SILKY STEAMED EGGS
milk 1 cup, at room temperature “If you’re looking for a fish dish that's light, WITH TOGARASHI-
(plus extra if necessary) delicate, full of texture and atomic flavour, INSPIRED CITRUS
sugar 2½ T this is the one for you.” SEASONING
instant yeast 1 t “It blows my mind how flavourful just eggs
Woolworths black tahini 200 g Serves 4 and chicken stock, steamed together, can be.
flour 360 g EASY Add chilli oil and home-made togarashi
salt 2 t GREAT VALUE seasoning and you’ve got an epic meal.”
Woolworths sriracha-flavoured Preparation: 20 minutes
almonds and cashews 100 g Cooking: 30 minutes Serves 4
Woolworths onion chilli crunch, EASY
for serving angelfish 800 g GREAT VALUE
salt, to taste Preparation: 15 minutes
For the quick cucumber pickle: Woolworths Asian tamari sauce ½ cup Cooking: 10 minutes
rice vinegar ¾ cup rice vinegar 3 T
sugar 1 T red salad onions 75 g, cut into strips free-range eggs 4
ginger 1 t finely grated or chopped chicken stock 1 cup
Mediterranean cucumber 1, thinly sliced For the garlic-and-ginger oil: sesame oil 1 T
red onion 1, thinly sliced canola oil ¾ cup salt, to taste
garlic 6 cloves, finely sliced white salad onions 2, thinly sliced
1 Place the milk, sugar and yeast in a bowl. ginger 1 x 10 cm piece, peeled and Woolworths Asian chilli Szechuan
Mix to combine, then allow to stand for 5–7 cut into strips pepper oil, for drizzling
minutes, or until frothy. 2 Add 2 T tahini,
the flour and salt and combine using a Woolworths fully cooked coconut For the togarashi-inspired citrus
wooden spoon to form a shaggy dough. jasmine rice 2 x 250 g sachets seasoning:
Gently knead in the bowl to form a ball. Woolworths baby pak choi 200 g, Woolworths Asian sushi nori 1 sheet
Cover and allow to rest for 10 minutes, then blanched sesame seeds 2 T, toasted
turn out onto a floured surface and knead black sesame seeds 2 T, toasted
for 7 minutes, or until very smooth. Place 1 Using a sharp knife, score the skin of the poppy seeds 1 T
the dough in the bowl, cover and set aside fish, 3 times on each side, just cutting into salt 1 T
to prove for 1 hour. 3 Meanwhile, make the the flesh but not too deep. Season lightly smoked chilli flakes 1 T
pickle. Combine the rice vinegar, sugar and with salt, then place on a plate. 2 Place a Woolworths crispy onion sprinkle 2 T
ginger and stir until the sugar has dissolved. steamer over a saucepan of boiling water, ClemenGold or mandarin 1, zested
Add the cucumber and onion, stir to place the plate into the steamer and steam
combine and set aside. Place the nuts in a the fish for 20 minutes, or until completely 1 Combine the eggs and chicken stock in
food processor and pulse to make a fine cooked through. This will depend on the a heatproof bowl that fits inside a saucepan
dust. 4 Turn out the dough onto a floured size of the fish. While the fish is steaming, until no strands of egg white are present.
surface and roll out, roughly shaping it into combine the tamari and rice vinegar and Add the sesame oil and salt and combine,
a rectangle about 5 mm thick. Spread the set aside. 3 To make the garlic-and-ginger then scoop the foam from the surface
remaining tahini onto the dough, then oil, heat the canola oil in a saucepan over using a spoon. 2 Fill a saucepan with water
roll into a large sausage as you would for a medium heat. Fry the garlic for 1–1½ to a depth of 4 cm and place a bowl or dish
a cinnamon roll. 5 Slice the dough into minutes in batches until crisp. Drain on (that the bowl of egg will fit onto) into the
3 cm-thick pieces. Line a steamer with kitchen paper. Do the same with the pan. Place the pan over a low heat and
baking paper with a few holes cut into ginger. Set aside the aromatic oil. 4 When cover with a lid. Bring to a steam, then place
it, then arrange the dough in the basket. the fish is cooked, drain off any excess the bowl of egg inside. 3 Cover and steam
Cover and set aside to rise for 30 minutes. water on the plate and carefully transfer for 10 minutes. The edges should be set
6 Fill a saucepan with water to a quarter the fish to a serving platter. Top with the and the centre slightly wobbly. Remove the
full and place over a medium heat. Bring to salad onions. 5 Heat the aromatic oil over a bowl from the pan and top with the spring
a boil, then place the steamer onto it and high heat until just smoking. Pour the hot onion and Szechuan oil. Sprinkle with the
cover with the lid. 7 Steam the bread for 10 oil over the salad onions so they sizzle – citrus seasoning.
minutes or until cooked through. Remove you don’t have to use all the oil. Pour over DAIRY-FREE, MEAT-FREE
the steamer from the saucepan. Serve the the tamari mixture and top with the crispy WINE: Black Oystercatcher
bread with the pickle and nutty dust. garlic and ginger. Heat the rice according Sauvignon Blanc

88 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N

TENDER BENDER
Keep mealtimes fun and easy with
Woolworths’ chicken tender strips – a
new addition to the much-loved crumbed
chicken range. Made from free-range
chicken breast tenderloins coated in an
ancient grain crumb that adds a hint of
nuttiness, you’re guaranteed golden and
crispy chicken with very little fuss. Bake
or air-fry and they’re ready to serve in
15 minutes. Add to picnic baskets, after-
school snack platters or lunchboxes.
woolworths.co.za
PHOTOGRAPH SADIQAH ASSURISMAIL PRODUCTION BRITA DU PLESSIS FOOD ASSISTANT JOSH VAN ZYL

SERVING SUGGESTION Cook 400 g Woolworths' chicken tender strips in an air-fryer or oven until golden brown. Mix
1 cup plain yoghurt and 1 round crumbled feta and spread into 4 halved pita breads. Stuff with 100 g julienned carrots, 90 g
shredded Woolworths’ Crunchita lettuce, 160 g pitted olives and 1/4 sliced cucumber. Top with the chicken tender strips.
E ASY TE CHN IQ UE 2

PHOTOGRAPHS
MYBURGH DU PLESSIS
RECIPES AND PRODUCTION
HANNAH LEWRY FOOD
ASSISTANT CLAIRE-ELLEN
VAN ROOYEN

Starting with a plate


of griddled squid, fresh
tomatoes and crispy
onions that we predict will
become a signature on
your summer table,
Hannah Lewry raises the
char with recipes that
deliver maximum results
with minimal effort

90 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


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GRILLED SQUID WITH


CRISPY ONIONS AND
TOMATO SALAD

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GRILLED KORMA PANEER


WITH COCONUT RICE

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GRIDDLED SMOKY
MEXICAN PORK WITH
CHARRED CORN, LIME
AND FETA SLAW
R36 PER SERVING

FULL-ON FLAVOUR
Chargrilling the fillet creates a delicious crust
of Mexican flavours on the outside while the
inside stays wonderfully juicy and pink.
You might need to finish it off in the oven,
depending on the thickness of the meat.

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GRILLED SQUID WITH


CRISPY ONIONS AND
TOMATO SALAD
Grilling is all about confident cooking. “This is one of the best salads we've made in a
Be brave enough to let the pan get long time. Claire’s dressing is a winner – zesty,
fresh and addictive. If you think you don't like
smoking hot because that’s what gives squid, this recipe will convert you.”
you that perfect sear and crust – and
bags of flavour! Don’t be tempted to Serves 4
EASY
move the ingredients around Preparation: 25 minutes
continuously. Allow the grill Cooking: 10 minutes
to work its magic. You won’t be
For the crispy onions:
disappointed. – Hannah Lewry small onions 2, thinly sliced
cornflour 80 g
salt a generous pinch
ground turmeric ¼ t
canola oil, for frying

Woolworths heirloom tomatoes


500 g, sliced
basil 10 g
mint 5 g
Woolworths Patagonia squid heads
and tubes 500 g, rinsed and dried
olive oil 2 T
sea salt and freshly ground black
pepper, to taste

For the dressing, mix:


lemons 2, zested and juiced
garlic 2 cloves, grated
olive oil 3 T
fresh chillies 2, finely chopped
parsley 2 T finely chopped
sea salt and freshly ground black
pepper, to taste

1 To make the crispy onions, rinse the


onions in cold water. Drain and pat dry. Mix
the cornflour, salt and turmeric. Add the
onions and toss well to coat. Place in a large
sieve and shake off the excess cornflour.
2 Heat the canola oil in a saucepan and test
GRILLED HARISSA- whether it’s hot enough by adding one
AND-YOGHURT CHICKEN onion ring – if it sizzles and floats to the top,
IN PITA BREADS the oil is hot enough. Fry the onions in 2
R58 PER SERVING batches and drain on kitchen paper. Season
with a little more salt. 3 Place the tomatoes

SWAP SHOP
Woolies’ chicken espetadas are a great alternative
if you don’t want to make your own. You could also
cook these chicken thigh skewers on the braai.

94 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


on a platter and scatter with the fresh
herbs. 4 To make the squid, heat a griddle
pan over high heat. Drizzle the squid with
olive oil, season with salt and toss to coat in
a bowl. Grill in batches for 3–5 minutes until
just cooked. Don’t be afraid of dark charred
colour as this creates flavour but don’t cook
for too long or the squid will be tough.
5 Remove from the grill. Serve immediately
over the tomato salad drizzled with the
dressing and the crispy onions on the side.
HEALTH-CONSCIOUS, DAIRY-FREE,
WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE
WINE: Creation Sauvignon Blanc

GRILLED KORMA PANEER


WITH COCONUT RICE
“When you’re craving something simple
but delicious, this is the recipe for you. It’s
fragrant and comforting but still light
enough to enjoy in summer. Grilling the
paneer adds wonderful smoky flavour,
which elevates this everyday curry.”

Serves 2
EASY
Preparation: 10 minutes
Cooking: 20 minutes

Woolworths paneer 1 x 200 g pack GRIDDLED TENDERSTEM BROCCOLI WITH BURNT


olive oil, for drizzling ONION PETALS AND BLUE CHEESE DRESSING
sea salt, to taste R29 PER SERVING
onion 1, chopped
garlic 2 cloves, finely chopped
Woolworths korma paste 50 g
coconut cream 1 x 400 g can
plain double-cream yoghurt 3–4 T and fry for 5 minutes over a medium to crisp texture and charred flavour.”
Woolworths dried apricots 50 g, low heat. 3 Add the coconut cream and
chopped reduce the heat to low. Cook for 5 minutes, Serves 4
Woolworths fully cooked coconut stirring occasionally, until slightly reduced. EASY
jasmine rice 1 x 250 g sachet Stir through the yoghurt and half the GREAT VALUE
mint, for serving apricots, then season to taste. 4 Heat the Preparation: 20 minutes
coriander, for serving rice in the microwave according to package Cooking: 20 minutes
instructions. Toss the paneer through the
For the minted yoghurt drizzle, blend: hot korma sauce and spoon over the rice. tomato paste 1 T
Woolworths double-cream plain Serve with the remaining apricots, the Woolworths mild Mexican seasoning 3 T
yoghurt ½ cup herbs and drizzle over the minted yoghurt. sea salt, to taste
mint 15 g MEATFREE, WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE olive oil ¼ cup
lime 1, juiced WINE: Creation Viognier pork fillet 400 g
water 2 T sweetcorn 4 cobs
sea salt, to taste GRIDDLED SMOKY nacho chips or wraps, for serving
MEXICAN PORK WITH sour cream or plain yoghurt, for serving
1 Preheat a grill pan. Cut the paneer into CHARRED CORN, LIME
even, bite-sized blocks, drizzle with olive oil AND FETA SLAW For the slaw:
and season. Grill each block of cheese until “You can’t go wrong with pork fillet. This baby green cabbages 2, finely sliced
golden and crisp, remove and set aside. affordable cut really stretches to feed a red onion ½, finely sliced
2 Fry the onion and garlic in a little olive crowd. Grilling the corn accentuates its lime or lemon 1, juiced
oil until translucent. Add the korma paste natural sweetness, and brings a refreshing sea salt, to taste

TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 95


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olive oil 2 T pita breads 4, halved


green chillies 1–2, sliced mini cucumbers 1 x 350 g pack
feta 100 g, crumbled red wine vinegar 1 T
hummus, for serving
For the dressing, blend: tzatziki, for serving
coriander 10 g pickled radishes or red onions,
mint 5 g for serving
lime 1, zested and juiced
sea salt, to taste 1 Mix the harissa and yoghurt and season
water 2 T lightly. Slice each chicken thigh in half and
garlic ½ clove, grated place into a bowl. Pour over the harissa
yoghurt and chill for 1 hour or overnight.
1 Preheat a griddle pan. Mix the tomato 2 Preheat the oven’s grill. Thread the
paste, Mexican seasoning, salt and olive oil. 5 WAYS TO chicken tightly onto two large metal
Rub onto the pork and place in the pan.
GRILL LIKE A PRO skewers and place onto a baking tray.
You can also marinate the pork overnight. Follow these expert tips and Drizzle with olive oil and place directly
2 Grill over a high heat for 10 minutes, you’ll soon be serving meat and under the grill for 45 minutes, rotating the
turning every minute or so, and brushing veg with the perfect char and skewers at 5-minute intervals. If the grill
the fillet with any remaining marinade. adding brilliant flavour to your begins to smoke, open the oven’s door
Finish in the oven at 180°C for 5 minutes. favourite summer recipes. slightly for a few minutes. 3 Grill the pita
3 Char the corn over an open flame or in a breads in a hot griddle pan. Smash the
griddle pan until slightly charred. 4 To make baby cucumbers using a rolling pin and
the slaw, toss the cabbage and onion in a Always PREHEAT A GRILL before sprinkle with salt, then place in a sieve over
bowl with the lime juice, salt and olive oil cooking so that it’s super-hot a bowl for 5 minutes to allow the liquid to
and massage for 30 seconds. Cut the corn and ready to add colour to the drain. 4 Place the cucumbers in a bowl and
off the cob and add to the slaw with the ingredients – food should toss with olive oil, red wine vinegar and
remaining ingredients. 5 Slice the pork and never boil. seasoning. Serve with the chicken skewers,
serve on a platter with the slaw. Drizzle dips and pickles.
over the pan juices and dressing. Serve FAT-CONSCIOUS
with nacho chips or chargrilled wraps and Be sure to TOSS VEGETABLES WINE: Woolworths Cape Zesty White
AND MEAT IN OLIVE OIL in a
yoghurt or sour cream.
bowl to coat for even colour and
HEALTH-CONSCIOUS
cooking. If you pour the oil onto a
GRIDDLED TENDERSTEM
WINE: DMZ Chenin Blanc
griddle pan, it will smoke and burn.
BROCCOLI WITH BURNT
ONION PETALS AND BLUE
GRILLED HARISSA-AND- CHEESE DRESSING
YOGHURT CHICKEN IN Grilling is all about HARD AND
“There’s nothing better than the way in
PITA BREADS FAST COOKING for maximum which broccoli or asparagus transforms on
“Turning the skewers regularly will give you flavour. It’s brilliant for veggies a grill. I relish eating them hot off the grill
a crispy char on the outside and succulence such as Tenderstem broccoli with a good drizzle of olive oil, a generous
on the inside. Yoghurt helps to tenderise the and asparagus, which keep their squeeze of lemon and a sprinkling of sea salt.
chicken and also contributes to the crust. crunch. Meat also gets a delicious, Watching my friends’ reactions when they try
For best results, use skinless chicken thighs.” tasty crust while remaining green veg this way for the first time is one of
succulent and tender. my favourite things.”
Serves 4 to 6
EASY Serves 4
GREAT VALUE When toasting bread, BRUSH THE EASY
Preparation: 20 minutes, plus 1 hour’s SURFACE OF THE BREAD WITH GREAT VALUE
marinating time OLIVE OIL before placing it over Preparation: 15 minutes
the heat. This helps it colour and
Cooking: 45 minutes Cooking: 20 minutes
crisp beautifully.
Woolworths fresh harissa paste For the blue cheese dressing, mix:
1 x 150 g tub full-cream plain yoghurt ¼ cup
There’s a fine line between charred
double-cream plain yoghurt ½ cup Woolworths Blue Rock cheese
smoky flavour and food tasting
sea salt and freshly ground black burnt. It’s often good to START 50 g, crumbled
pepper, to taste MEAT ON THE GRILL TO CHAR, lemon ½, juiced
free-range skinless deboned chicken then finish it off in the oven to olive oil 2 T
thighs 600 g continue cooking through. garlic 1 clove, crushed
olive oil 2 T sea salt and freshly ground black

96 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


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FLAVOUR SAVIOUR
If you love anchovies, amp up the flavour by
adding even more than the amount this recipe
recommends. You could also leave them out of the
grilled tomato mixture entirely and place Woolies’
marinated white anchovy fillets on the toast.

GRILLED PUTTANESCA-
INSPIRED CAPRESE
SEED BREAD TOAST
R44 PER SERVING

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pepper, to taste some lemon and add the onion petals. sea salt and freshly ground black
Sprinkle over the seed mix and parsley. pepper, to taste
red onion 1, halved CARB-CONSCIOUS, MEAT-FREE olive oil 2–3 T
Tenderstem broccoli 400 g WINE: Diemersdal Grenache Rosé fresh chillies 1–2, chopped
olive oil, for drizzling
sea salt and freshly ground black GRILLED PUTTANESCA- Woolworths seeded baguette 1, halved
pepper, to taste INSPIRED CAPRESE lengthways
lemon, for serving SEED BREAD TOAST Woolworths fior di latte mozzarella
Woolworths nut-and-seed sprinkle 35 g “These tomatoes are so good, you don’t even 1 x 150 g tub
Italian parsley, chopped, to garnish have to put them on toast. They're also great fresh basil, torn
in a warm salad with cold, torn mozzarella mixed olives, for serving
1 Spread the blue cheese dressing into and loads of croutons.”
the base of a large bowl or onto a platter. 1 Preheat the oven’s grill to high. Toss the
2 Preheat a griddle pan over a high heat Serves 4 tomatoes with all the ingredients and place
and preheat the oven to 200°C. Place the EASY on a baking tray. Place under the grill with
onion into the pan and cook until charred. GREAT VALUE the oven’s door slightly ajar. Grill for 15–20
Remove from the pan, arrange on a baking Preparation: 5 minutes minutes, tossing occasionally. 2 Brush the
tray, drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with Cooking: 20 minutes cut side of the baguette with olive oil and
salt. 3 Roast the onions for 10 minutes, place cut-side down on a preheated griddle
allow to cool slightly, then separate into For the grilled tomatoes: pan. Grill until slightly charred and toasted.
petals. Toss the broccoli with the olive oil Woolworths mixed tomatoes 400 g 3 Serve the baguette with the grilled
and seasoning, then grill in the griddle pan garlic 6 cloves, unpeeled tomatoes, tear over the mozzarella and
for a few minutes on each side in a single capers 50 g pour over the warm pan juices. Scatter over
layer until the edges begin to char and the anchovies 4–6 the basil and serve warm with the olives.
broccoli is just cooked. 4 Place the broccoli red wine vinegar 1 T HEALTH-CONSCIOUS, MEAT-FREE
on the blue cheese dressing, squeeze over sugar 1 t WINE: WCC Villiera Brut Cap Classique
A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N

SLICE OF
THE ACTION
Now that the rush of the festive season is behind us, it’s time to enjoy the best of
summer. Head to the garden or a local park for some much-needed me-time.
Woolworths’ ham and salami cheese rolls are our go-to hack for making a charcuterie
board for one. Serve with crackers, crudités, fresh berries and a chilled drink and
you’ve got the easiest charcuterie board ever! woolworths.co.za

SERVING
SUGGESTION
Serve
Woolworths’
ham-and-cheese
and salami-and-
cheese rolls with
PHOTOGRAPH SADIQAH ASSURISMAIL PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY FOOD ASSISTANT CLAIREELLEN VAN ROOYEN

sun-ripened
tomatoes,
crackers, mini
cucumbers, dips
such as tzatziki,
sweet blueberries
and nuts.
BE ST O F CA P E TOW N

Need some great local news? The globally renowned food hall concept,
Time Out Market, has opened its Cape Town chapter, bringing together the
best of the city’s restaurants under one stylish roof. Sharpen your appetite…
PHOTOGRAPHS JAN RAS PRODUCTION ABIGAIL DONNELLY RECIPES SIBA MTONGANA
AND JOHN VAN ZYL TEXT KHANYA MZONGWANA

100 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


BE ST O F CA P E TOW N

Pepperoni pizza
by YARD Snyboontjie bredie
by Barakat

Burrata by Carne
West Coast mussels
by The Melting Pot

Gyoza by The
Melting Pot

Tuna tataki
by Sushiya

Shakshuka by NOSH

Assorted pani puri


by Kapoochka

Pasteis de nata
by NOSH

Wagyu sando by
How Bao Now

Tori chintan by
Ramenhead
Nigiri by Sushiya

Dahi samosa by
Kapoochka

Cape Malay
crayfish bao by
How Bao Now
Sliced sirloin
by Carne

TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 101


BE ST O F CA P E TOW N

a soft pretzel while balancing your one of his favourite restaurants on the list
shopping and a beer under one arm I had put together. After several more
at Markthalle Neun in Berlin, you’ll be meetings, they gave me the job of
in on the phenomenon of the high-end collaborating with their team, so
food hall, the regular food market’s older, I introduced them to the chefs I felt
wiser sibling who’s been around and best suited their criteria. We conducted
seen some things. interviews, ate at a few of their
A food hall typically hosts express restaurants, and discussed who would
versions of existing restaurants, not be the best fit. The most exciting part
dissimilar to the food truck phase is seeing how restaurateurs can be more
we never thought we’d move past diverse and accessible in a market like
as a nation. It is also distinguishable this, the first of its kind in Africa.”
through its more elaborate kitchen
set-ups and cafeteria-style seating, The headline chefs
where every table is “the cool table”.
To create a unique experience here, are our own league of
the project required some of South culinary superheroes,
Africa’s finest culinary talents to and there’s a taste of the best of
collaborate, a task that Time Out Market everything here. Chef Hitesh Panchal’s
CEO Sandy Hayek was happy to take on. Kapoochka offers a crisp and flavourful
“To open a Time Out Market in a city, contemporary version of what’s hailed
we need to be able to tap into a rich as the king of Indian street food, pani
culinary scene, and Cape Town is spoilt puri, and dahi samosa – a Punjabi samosa
for choice with outstanding, diverse, with chickpea masala, dressed in their
homegrown talents. What we do is signature sauces, crunchy vermicelli
all about shining a light on that.” and fresh pomegranate – a dish Hitesh
Time Out Market’s general manager, describes as “a samosa wearing a sari”.
Russ Meyer, says it’s been a little over Kapoochka is family-run and Hitesh
a year since they began work on the Cape works with his wife, Manju, and their
Town incarnation of the market, which two sons, Hriday and Tushar. “It’s great
also exists in Miami, New York, Boston, to be grouped with some of South
TO THOSE OF Montreal, Chicago and Dubai, with Africa’s top chefs. We all contribute an
YOU WHO HAVE Porto opening at the end of 2023. important part of the experience – my
EVER UTTERED “The best part of the Time Out
Market Cape Town concept is how it
offering is a tantaliser, inspiring the
customer to go on to try other foods.”
THE WORDS brings the best of the city together under Anyone who has eaten at the EDGE
“WE NEVER GET one roof. This mix of chefs, drinks and pop-up or at Eat Out Woolworths
ANYTHING GOOD cultural experiences is what makes it
truly unique. My favourite part is how
Restaurant award-winner Boma on Bree
knows how special it is that Vusi Ndlovu
AROUND HERE”, we are committed to showcasing local has taken up residence at the market.
talent to a local and global audience, Mlilo, his Pan-African concept with
providing huge exposure for vendors and partner Absie Pantshwa offers exactly
now is the time to eat your words. a platform to reach beyond their existing what its name promises: fire, fat and
The international food market concept communities,” says Meyer. “After we smoke – the founding pillars of much
that premiered in Lisbon in 2014 – as announced in October 2022 that we of their cooking. The menu includes
a physical representation of the iconic were opening the market here, we hired mainstays such as irostile; spicy, smoky
Time Out magazine, first launched in a team who were all from the city – local pork suya; snacking plantain dusted with
London in the sixties – has reached the connection is key.” chilli powder and salt; and pepe wings.
African continent. (Ahead of London It stood to reason that TASTE food Mlilo is stationed parallel to Carla
itself, in fact.) And it has placed itself at director and Eat Out chief judge Abigail Schulze and Matt van den Berg’s How
the V&A Waterfront at the Old Power Donnelly would be appointed as chef Bao Now, which features Asian-inspired,
Station on Dock Road (and previously consultant. “The former CEO at the high-end street food. They met at the
home to the V&A Food Market). London office, Didier Souillat, contacted erstwhile The Test Kitchen, where they
If you’ve been fortunate enough me and we had dinner at Emazulwini, worked under Luke Dale Roberts (see
to have crammed down a Katz Deli
pastrami sando at DeKalb Market Hall
in Brooklyn, snagged a sausage at Above: A Time Out magazine cover from the early nineties overlooks the dining area. Opposite, clockwise from top left:
Tramsheds in Sydney, or torn through A steaming bowl of Ramenhead’s blockbuster tori chintan; Kapoochka’s Hitesh Panchal and his sons, Hriday and Tushar;
How Bao Now’s angry edamame, crayfish bao, Wagyu sando and white rabbit boba; the weekday buzz of the cafeteria.

102 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 103
THE SIBA DELI’S
CHAKALAKA

Clockwise from top left: Julia du Toit and Liam


Smith of popular city ramen bar, Ramenhead;
the Time Out concept has been successful in
cities such as London, Sydney, Montreal and
New York – with Cape Town now joining its
impressive ranks; Vusi Ndlovu manipulates
fire in his favour at Mlilo; every market needs
a pizza, and YARD’s legendary pepperoni pie is
the business; John van Zyl and Michael Persse
of The Melting Pot, where the signature Cape
Malay mussels are a favourite; past covers of
Time Out magazine adorn the walls. Opposite:
Siba Mtongana with chef Mahle Waka at The
Siba Deli, which she says “has been resting
in my belly for many years”.
BE ST O F CA P E TOW N

“Time Out Market coming to this city


reaffirms Cape Town as one of the world’s
leading culinary destinations” – Russ Meyer

TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 105


BE ST O F CA P E TOW N

page 118), who they credit with inspiring is her favourite menu item, but
their love and respect for Asian cuisine. visitors can also expect her signature Below: Team YARD – Fernando Dandou, Eugene Smith
“Fine-dining kitchens have taught us chakalaka (see recipe on page 108), and Benjamin Mukendi. Opposite, clockwise from top
discipline; now we have the opportunity Korean-inspired cucumber salad, coconut left: Ryan Reyes and Peter Tempelhoff at Sushiya; the
eponymous De Vrije Burger; Liyaduma Pike of Unframed
to use flavours and execute them in a corn ribs and what are rumoured to be
Ice Cream with the coconut passion fruit Sunday sundae.
more playful way.” The Wagyu sando among the best chicken wings in town.
is a team favourite – a panko-crumbed Flanking The Siba Deli is Sushiya,
and deep-fried bao stuffed with sous-vide where critically acclaimed chef and traditional Cape Malay cuisine at
Wagyu and a spicy mayo. And there is award-winning restaurateur Peter Barakat. “We are the only fully halaal
the equally indulgent crayfish bao, served Tempelhoff has partnered with chef Shin vendor, so we believe there’s going to be
with a Cape Malay-inspired curry sauce. Takagi – of two-star Michelin restaurant a big demand for what we’re offering,”
South African restaurateur and Zeniya in Kanazawa, Japan – to offer says Anwar, who took home the Rising
culinary maven Siba Mtongana has authentic contemporary Japanese sushi. Star award at the Eat Out Woolworths
channelled her energy into her “We’re aware everything has to go out Restuarant awards this year. “And we
brand-new deli concept, an offshoot fast,” says Peter, “so we’ve kept the always wanted Happy Uncles, our other
restaurant in Salt River, to have a cool
food truck,” Yolani adds, “so we believe
“We have one of the biggest menus – this is a huge step up.”
Anwar’s mother helped develop it, so it’s Anwar and Yolani agree that Cape
been signed off by upper management!” Malay food deserves its followers, and
having a platform to expose international
– Yolani Abrahams, Barakat customers to the food of their childhood
excites them. “We have one of the
biggest menus – you don’t even know
of her eponymous restaurant at The Table offering quite simple and mostly use local how long we sat trying to shortlist
Bay hotel. “Finally bringing The Siba products. The only things we fly in things. Anwar’s mother helped develop
Deli to life has been exceptional, as it’s are the prawns from Mozambique and it, so it’s been signed off by upper
been resting in my belly for years and Namibia, and a combination of Japanese management!” Ou mense onder die
was even captured in the case study that and California rice. We also get our kombers is a contemporary take on an
Harvard Business School conducted on wasabi and ginger from small-scale age-old dish, featuring a fall-apart beef
my career.” The Tuscan artichoke salad producers in Japan.” shin parcel wrapped in a cabbage leaf and
Peter, whose restaurant Fyn won pan-fried, served with baby vegetables.
three stars at the Eat Out Woolworths End it off the right way with fresh
Restaurant awards, is also the man koesisters and sweet boeber.
behind Ramenhead, another key vendor: This is also chef John van Zyl of The
“Ramen is like the grungy bad boy of Melting Pot’s first foray into the market
Japanese food, whereas sushi is its space, but he is staying true to his style
clean-cut brother who probably drives with high-quality dishes, particularly
a Prius.” Here, they sit side by side in those inspired by Cape Town’s seafood
a Japanese super-offering run by Ashley bounty. The fried squid sandwich
Moss and Jennifer Hugé – the team promises to be the break-out star,
behind Ramenhead and Fyn. “We offer followed closely by the crispy fish
two main ramens; one is quite a classic tacos and fresh West Coast mussels
Japanese style and the other is more fun on sourdough, piled with shredded
and modern. The tori katsu curry is fennel salad (see recipe on page 108).
our favourite dish – we developed it “That’s been The Melting Pot’s
specifically for the market. It’s a chicken most-eaten dish since our very first day!”
broth flavoured with Japanese curry,
topped with a succulent, crunchy, Apart from giving
deep-fried chicken thigh.”
The pair has travelled and eaten local chefs a unique
extensively in Japan, and their food platform, the Time Out Group
reflects their knowledge racked up over is also dedicated to creating opportunities
the years. “We want a Japanese person to for youth. Through a partnership
eat our food unflinchingly!” says Ashley. between the V&A Waterfront and
A short walk away, chefs Anwar the Harambee Youth Employment
Abdullatief and Yolani Abrahams are Accelerator, they’ve been able to
cooking up a modern interpretation of unlock jobs within the V&A Waterfront

106 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


THE MELTING
POT'S WEST COAST
MUSSELS
Above, from left: Barakat’s Anwar Abdullatief, Shuaid Baseer,
Obvious Majoni and Yolani Abrahams. Right: Barakat’s
prawn curry with warm roti and snyboontjie bredie.

neighbourhood, including filling 20 of Serves 6 as a side dish until soft and translucent. Add the chillies,
the entry-level positions at the market. EASY garlic and half the ginger (reserve the
Those 20 candidates will go through GREAT VALUE other half to add at the end). Add the
an intensive work-readiness programme Preparation: 20 minutes curry powder and stir to combine.
powered by Solve@Waterfront, Cooking: 25 minutes 2 Add the peppers and cook for a further
Harambee and Passion4Performance. 2 minutes. Add the carrots and stir to
“The aim of the programme is to olive oil 3 T make sure they’re well combined with the
equip them with the essential soft skills medium onion 1, finely chopped other ingredients and coated in the curry
needed for success in the hospitality green bird’s-eye chillies 2, seeded, powder. 3 Add the tomatoes and tomato
industry,” says Russ. “Time Out Market pith removed and chopped paste and stir. Cook until the mixture is
coming to this city reaffirms Cape Town garlic 2 cloves, crushed well combined and slightly thickened, 5–10
as one of the world’s leading culinary fresh ginger 50 g, finely grated minutes. 4 Remove from the heat and add
destinations – something I am very proud mild curry powder 2 T the baked beans, thyme and remaining
to be a part of.” W green pepper 1, finely chopped ginger. Stir to combine, then season with
red pepper 1, finely chopped salt and pepper. Serve warm or cold.
The Time Out Market is open daily from Sunday yellow pepper 1, finely chopped CARB-CONSCIOUS, PLANT-BASED
to Wednesday (11 am–10 pm) and Thursday to large carrots 5, scrubbed, trimmed WINE: Tamboerskloof Syrah
Saturday (11 am–11 pm). and grated
peeled and chopped tomatoes THE MELTING POT’S
1 x 400 g can WEST COAST MUSSELS
tomato paste 2 T “This has been The Melting Pot’s number one
THE SIBA DELI’S baked beans 1 x 400 g can most popular dish since our very first day.”
CHAKALAKA fresh thyme 2 sprigs, leaves picked – John van Zyl
“Crack a few eggs into this chakalaka a few sea salt and freshly ground black
minutes before the end of the cooking time pepper, to taste Serves 5
to transform it into a chakalaka shakshuka.” EASY
– Siba Mtongana 1 Heat the oil in a pan and fry the onion GREAT VALUE

108 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


BE ST O F CA P E TOW N

Preparation: 10 minutes thyme 1 bunch through a sieve and reserve the cooking
Cooking: 15 minutes flour 1 T liquid. Repeat until all the mussels are
mussel stock 1 cup cooked. Strain and reserve the cooking
oil, for frying cream ½ cup liquid. Pick all the mussels from the shells.
large onion 1, diced parsley 1 small bunch, chopped 4 To make the sauce, heat a small amount
garlic 6 cloves, diced of oil in a large saucepan over a medium
celery 1 stick, chopped For serving: heat. Add the butter, onion, garlic and
leek 1, chopped sourdough, thickly sliced and toasted thyme, and sweat until soft and translucent.
thyme 1 bunch baby fennel 6 heads, sliced Add the flour and briefly mix through the
fresh black mussels 1 kg lemon wedges 6 onion-and-garlic base. 5 Add the mussel
white wine 1 cup stock and cream, bring to a boil and cook
1 Heat a small amount of oil in a large for 1–2 minutes. Add the picked mussels
For the sauce: double-boiler and sweat the onion, garlic, and parsley to the sauce and mix. 6 To
oil, for frying celery, leek and thyme. 2 Add some of the serve, top the sourdough with the mussels
butter 100 g mussels and mix well with the vegetables. and fennel, with the lemon on the side
large onion ½, chopped Add the wine, put the lid on, and steam WINE: Spier Private Collection
garlic 3 cloves, chopped for 6 minutes. 3 Strain the cooked mussels Chenin Blanc

1 2 3

NOT TO BE restaurateur and chef Bertus


MISSED… Basson brings his DE VRIJE
NOSH CAFÉ 2 serves three BURGER 3 to the Time Out YARD by chef Eugene Smith
The rest of the line-up is of the city’s favourite coffee Market. Order the blockbuster is turning out delicious pizzas.
studded with must-visit brands as part of a one-stop bacon-and-cheese burger The classics are all accounted
vendors brunch spot within the with their famous hand-cut for, including pepperoni and
market. If you pull up early, chips. blue cheese with caramelised
Meat-lovers, rejoice! Chef have a cup of either Truth, onion – and there are plenty
Giorgio Nava has brought Origin or Tribe and a healthy- of vegetarian options.
CARNE 1 to the market, ish breakfast bowl, or try the
where he serves Italian shakshuka with griddled Founded by Yann Rey,
classics such as arancini, halloumi and sourdough. UNFRAMED ICE CREAM
offers a fresh take on classic Restaurateur and chef Matt
eggplant parmigiana, and
flavours. Come for the roasted Manning offers a curated
a selection of steak cuts,
strawberry flavour, stay for the selection of South Africa’s
including a shareable meat
A market isn't a market tasting flight, which includes fine wines at CULTURE WINE
feast platter. Leave room for
without a good burger five delectable flavours, such BAR, including the Radford
dessert; the famous chocolate
offering. Luckily, celebrated as double carrot cake. Dale Freedom Pinot Noir.
fondant is on the menu.

TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 109


E ASY TE CHN IQ UE 3

BULK IT UP
To make a substantial
vegetarian supper, toss CRUSHED PEA-AND-BABY
the salad through some MARROW SALAD WITH
cooked pasta shells. LEMONADE VINAIGRETTE
R46 PER SERVING

110 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


E ASY TE CHN IQ UE 3

So, you have people to


feed but don’t feel like
cooking? No problem.
Khanya Mzongwana’s
raw recipes celebrate
the colours and flavours
of summer. Not to
mention they’re just the
ace you need when
loadshedding strikes

CHEAT IT!
Stir 6 chopped
anchovies into 80 g
Woolies’ French-style
mayonnaise for
a shortcut version
of this spread.
PHOTOGRAPHS
MYBURGH
DU PLESSIS
RECIPES AND
PRODUCTION
KHANYA
MZONGWANA
RIPE TOMATO FOOD ASSISTANT
OPEN SARMIES WITH ELLAH MAEPA
MAYO AND SARDINES
R31 PER SERVING

TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 111


E ASY TE CHN IQ UE 3

RAINBOW
KACHUMBARI WITH
AVO AND CHILLI
R32 PER SERVING

GREAT FOR
LEFTOVERS
This kachumbari is also
a great sandwich filler.
If you have leftovers,
pack them into burgers
or spoon on top of
chicken schnitzels for a
quick weekday dinner.

112 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


E ASY TE CHN IQ UE 3

“The flavour of
ajo blanco is mild,
but the pickled
grapes really
give it attitude”

AJO BLANCO WITH


PICKLED FROZEN WHITE
GRAPES AND PROSCIUTTO
R47 PER SERVING

GRAPE ESCAPE
Replace the grapes with
fresh peeled melon
slices for a refreshing
and quicker solution.

TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 113


E ASY TE CHN IQ UE 3

1 To make the mayo, place the egg yolks,


vinegar and seasoning in a plastic jug.
Using a stick blender, blitz the ingredients
Preparing food without turning until well combined. Pour the olive oil into
the mixture in a thin stream, blending
on the stove is one of the great joys continuously, until thick. 2 Season the
of eating raw. It’s an opportunity tomatoes. Spread the bread with the mayo,
to enjoy ingredients in their most place the tomatoes and sardines onto the
bread, then sprinkle over the parsley.
natural state – fast and fresh. DAIRY-FREE
All these recipes are really close WINE: Woolworths Hartenberg
to my heart – nothing beats a ripe Chardonnay
tomato sandwich on a hot, sunny, RAINBOW KACHUMBARI
lazy day, or a plate of paper-thin WITH AVO AND CHILLI
slices of shaved butternut finished “Kachumbari is a cooling salad often eaten
as a side with spicy grilled meat and pap, but
with a bold and bright dressing. this one can be enjoyed as a meal on its own.
– Khanya Mzongwana Creamy avocado and the simple sweet-and-
sour dressing make this the ideal middle-of-
the-table salad at any meal.”

Serves 6
EASY
CRUSHED PEA-AND-BABY RIPE TOMATO OPEN GREAT VALUE
MARROW SALAD WITH SARMIES WITH MAYO Preparation: 20 minutes
LEMONADE VINAIGRETTE AND SARDINES
“This salad is great with grilled meat because “The building blocks for the perfect sandwich baby green cabbage 1, very thinly sliced
it’s sweet, fresh, acidic and has a lot of really are all here: ripe tomato slices, a delicious baby red cabbage 1, very thinly sliced
good texture. It also gives the impression that and affordable protein and a luscious red onion 1, halved and thinly sliced
you’ve done a lot of work, when really none is home-made mayonnaise on fresh, white large carrot 1, peeled and finely sliced
required at all – it’s ready in just 10 minutes.” bread. This will make an envy-provoking julienne
work lunch with not much more than a little Woolworths exotic tomatoes
Serves 4 fruit salad on the side. Another way to enjoy 500 g, quartered
EASY these sandwiches is to toast them in a pan green chilli 1, thinly sliced
GREAT VALUE and add a fried egg.” red chilli 1, thinly sliced
Preparation: 10 minutes large avocado 1
Serves 4 white wine vinegar ½ cup
For the dressing, whisk: EASY brown sugar 40 g
lemons 4, juiced GREAT VALUE sea salt and freshly ground black
sugar 2 T Preparation: 15 minutes pepper, to taste
sea salt and freshly ground black
pepper, to taste For the mayo:
extra virgin olive oil 4 T free-range egg yolks 2
white wine vinegar 3 T
fresh raw peas 100 g sea salt and freshly ground black SWAP SHOP
mangetout 100 g pepper, to taste If you don’t want to
green beans 100 g, sliced diagonally extra virgin olive oil ½ cup shave the butternut for
feta 100 g, broken into chunks the recipe on page 117
cucumber ¼, sliced large tomatoes 4, thickly sliced but still want that
vibrant orange look
lemon 1, peel very thinly sliced sea salt and freshly ground black
and delicious flavour,
fresh mint, to garnish pepper, to taste get your hands on the
rocket leaves a handful thick-slice white bread 8 slices new cauliflower-and-
Woolworths smoked sardines in carrot fettuccine at Woolies. All you
Pour the dressing over the salad and toss. vegetable oil 1 x 110 g can, scaled have to do is submerge it in boiling
water for 3 minutes and it’s ready to
MEAT-FREE, WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE and deboned
eat (and still in keeping with your raw
WINE: Kaapzicht Granietkop Italian parsley a handful agenda!). R44.99 for 250 g
Chenin Blanc

114 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


OPEN SESAME
This versatile sesame salt can also be used as a seasoning for cooked veggies
or salads, or you could sprinkle it on eggs for nutty, savoury flavour.

dried mixed herbs 1 t

Toss all the ingredients in a bowl and serve.


CARB-CONSCIOUS, FAT-CONSCIOUS,
HEALTH-CONSCIOUS, MEAT-FREE,
WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE
WINE: Ken Forrester SGM

AJO BLANCO WITH


PICKLED FROZEN
WHITE GRAPES AND
PROSCIUTTO
“Ajo blanco, gazpacho’s nutty cousin,
is a Spanish chilled, almond-based soup,
enriched with bread and olive oil. The flavour
is creamy and mild, but what really gives it GREEN CANNELLINI
attitude is the preparation of pickled grapes BEANS WITH SESAME- SALT-
that accompanies it. I’ve peeled mine and DUSTED BREAD
kept them on the stem for the look, but you R40 PER SERVING
can remove them.”

Serves 4
EASY
GREAT VALUE HERBY TROUT
Preparation: 30 minutes, plus 3 hours’ CEVICHE WITH SALT-

chilling time AND-VINEGAR CHIPS


R71 PER SERVING

For the pickled grapes:


extra-virgin olive oil 1½ T, plus extra
for serving
fennel seeds 1 t, slightly cracked
black peppercorns 1 t, cracked
brown sugar 40 g
bay leaves 2
white wine vinegar ½ cup
sea salt and freshly ground black
pepper, to taste
green seedless grapes 150 g, halved TACO TUESDAY
You could serve this
ice-cold water 2 cups ceviche with taco
blanched almonds 170 g shells, freshly cut
avocado and a heap
garlic 2 cloves of shredded lettuce.
fresh, crustless rustic bread
200 g, cut into large cubes
salt, to taste
sherry vinegar 2 T
olive oil ¼ cup
prosciutto 8 slices

1 To make the pickled grapes, place all the


ingredients except the grapes in a bowl

TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 115


and whisk together. Add the grapes, cover
and chill for 30 minutes to an hour. The
longer you pickle them, the tastier they will
be. 2 Place the water, almonds and garlic
into a blender and blend at a high speed
until milky. Add the bread and blend until
smooth. Season with salt, then blend in
the vinegar and olive oil. 3 Strain the soup
through a sieve into a sealable container,
then chill for 2 hours. 4 To serve, divide the
soup between bowls, top with a spoonful
of the pickled grapes and rosettes of
prosciutto. Drizzle with olive oil and serve.
DAIRY-FREE, WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE
WINE: Diemersdal Winter Ferment
Sauvignon Blanc

GREEN CANNELLINI
BEANS WITH SESAME-
SALT-DUSTED BREAD
SMART SUPPER “These wholesome beans in a bowl make it
Roll the salad into rice feel like you really stood over a hot stove and
paper rolls to serve RAW SHAVED cooked! I used cavalo nero to get the beans
with a peanut dipping BUTTERNUT as green as they are and to add earthy
sauce as an impressive WITH GOCHUJANG flavour. The salty bread is the perfect vehicle
summer meal.
DRESSING AND TOFU for mopping up the sauce and beans.”
R29 PER SERVING
Serves 4
EASY
GREAT VALUE
Preparation: 15 minutes
EXPERT INFO
Khanya’s cheat’s tips and favourite ingredient swaps will help For the sesame salt:
you bulk up her recipes and add even more flavour sesame seeds 20 g
salt 1 T

ciabatta 100 g, cut into large cubes


If you’re turning the To make the
cavolo nero or kale 4 leaves
shaved butternut lemony pea salad
salad into rice a little bulkier basil 10 g, plus extra for serving
paper rolls, dip while keeping parsley 10 g
them into Woolies’ things fairly Woolworths hard cheese ½ cup grated,
new ASIAN fancy, fold some plus extra for serving
PEANUT STIRFRY Woolworths extra virgin olive oil ⁄ cup
SAUCE. It’s just as CONCHIGLIONI sea salt and freshly ground black
tasty as a dipping PASTA through pepper, to taste
sauce. R29.99 for 100 g it. R64.99 for 500 g garlic 2 cloves
cannellini beans 1 x 400 g can

If you’re not super- For an extra hit of umami 1 To make the sesame salt, blitz the salt and
strict about things in the juicy tomato sesame seeds in a blender until a fragrant
being raw, serve sandwiches, stir some powder forms. Toss the bread through the
the trout ceviche SMOKED COD ROE PASTE sesame salt and set aside until ready to use.
with some lightly into the mayonnaise.
toasted WHITE 2 Wash the kale well and place into a bowl.
Its delicious flavour is
TORTILLA WRAPS. Pour boiling water over the leaves and
reminiscent of old-school
Add avocado and fish paste. R79.99 for 100 g allow to soften for 5 minutes. 3 Squeeze
shredded spinach and it’s a party! the kale to remove excess water, then
R39.99 for 6 place in a blender with the herbs, cheese,
olive oil, seasoning and garlic. Blend until

116 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


E ASY TE CHN IQ UE 3

smooth. 4 Drain and rinse the cannellini red chilli 1, thinly sliced GREAT VALUE
beans, then place into a bowl. Spoon sweetcorn 1 cob Preparation: 15 minutes
over the green kale paste and gently stir Woolworths fresh trout fillets
through. Spoon the beans onto a serving 400 g, cubed For the gochujang dressing, whisk:
plate. Top with the bread, then scatter fresh coriander 5 g Woolworths Asian gochujang paste 2 T
with the remaining basil and cheese. Tabasco sauce 1 T brown sugar 1 T
FAT-CONSCIOUS, MEAT-FREE salt, to taste rice wine vinegar 2 T
WINE: Woolworths Sparkling Italian salt-and-vinegar chips, for serving vegetable oil 3 T
Lunato Lambrusco Rosso sesame oil 1 t
Combine all the ingredients except the soya sauce 2 T
HERBY TROUT CEVICHE chips. Cover and chill for 30 minutes. Spoon garlic 2 cloves, grated
WITH SALT-AND- onto a platter and serve with the chips. ginger 1 x 2 cm piece, grated
VINEGAR CHIPS DAIRY-FREE, WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE
“This ceviche is a brilliant appetiser on a hot WINE: Woolworths House Chardonnay large butternuts 2, peeled
day. It’s delicious tossed into a salad, too.” Pinot Noir Woolworths firm yuzu-flavoured tofu
100 g, sliced
Serves 6 RAW SHAVED BUTTERNUT fresh mint a handful
EASY WITH GOCHUJANG
GREAT VALUE DRESSING AND TOFU 1 Chill the dressing until ready to use.
Preparation: 15 minutes, plus “You’ll be surprised by the subtly sweet, nutty 2 Halve and seed the butternut. Using a
30 minutes’ marinating time flavour and delicate crunch of raw butternut. vegetable peeler or mandolin, shave the
Use leftover dressing as a marinade for butternut into long, thin slices. Arrange on
lemon 1, zested and juiced chicken, which can accompany your salad.” a platter. 3 Scatter over the tofu, spoon over
limes 2, zested and juiced, plus extra the dressing and tear over the mint.
for serving Serves 6 DAIRY-FREE, PLANT-BASED
spring onions 100 g EASY WINE: Buitenverwachting Buiten Blanc

SCAN TO
LEARN MORE
N EW BO O K E XCLU SIV E

Luke Dale-Roberts,
and some of his staff
members, at The Test
Kitchen. The restaurant
was decorated by his
wife, Sandalene.

118 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


N EW BO O K E XCLU SIV E

TOMATO,
MOZZARELLA,
BASIL

The
One of the most
gifted and awarded
chefs of his time,
Luke Dale-Roberts
PHOTOGRAPHS
revolutionised South
JUSTIN PATRICK
RECIPES LUKE
African fine-dining.
DALE-ROBERTS Khanya Mzongwana
INTERVIEW
KHANYA found out why
MZONGWANA
it was time
to divulge the
secrets of his most

of time
iconic restaurant,
The Test Kitchen,
in his long-awaited
cookbook

TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 119


N EW BO O K E XCLU SIV E

“LUKE HAS
BEEN A At home, both music and food
mattered a great deal, and Luke’s capacity
Philippines. As his career developed, he’d
find himself working alongside many
WONDERFUL to imagine was nurtured, later informing
his culinary trajectory. His father,
a hot-tempered chef, with complex
relationships that drifted from amicable
DISRUPTOR Jeremy, was a renowned composer
of contemporary classical music.
to astringent. But some became lifelong
friends. These interactions are likely to
AND Luke’s Swiss mother, Paulette, was an have helped cultivate that stern yet

INNOVATOR. accomplished cook and follower of


acclaimed British food writer Elizabeth
paternal, gentle-giant energy that his
mentees often use when describing him.
David. Luke remembers following his Luke arrived in South Africa in 2006,
His recipes offer a playground for our mother closely in their bounteous a time when, he says, “There was
senses and memories to explore.” This vegetable garden, harvesting fresh a handful of fine-dining restaurants and
is how Heston Blumenthal describes produce, and helping her bake scones, no tasting menus.” He spent four years
Luke Dale-Roberts in the foreword to bread and biscuits. as executive chef at La Colombe, taking
The Test Kitchen, a cookbook that has As a teen, he quickly grew tired of the the restaurant to 12th place on the San
taken five years to produce. Renowned banality of school, cruising out of his Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants
locally and internationally as a chef who final exam hours earlier than all his list in 2010.
has skillfully channeled all his wild classmates. Later, he ambled out of Then came 24 November 2010.
creativity into his craft, he has smashed engineering college on the third day of The day Woodstock officially became
boundaries with his alluringly dramatic class, clearly forming an early habit of Cape Town’s hottest district, according
food, always with a respectful nod to the
cultures that inspire each dish, and always
with a touch of his trademark humour. “I think I offer the reader an experience that
It’s hard to believe that he almost will give them the opportunity to focus on
became an electrician. their creative energy” – Luke Dale-Roberts
Having lived many lives and worn
many a hat, no job has ever been too
lowly for Luke. He grew up in Punnett’s
Town, East Sussex, in the UK and moving on from things that didn’t to Time magazine, when Luke opened
emerged onto the workforce aged 12, interest him. Fortunately, he did listen The Test Kitchen. The restaurant would
as a paper boy. He transported Portaloos when his uncle gently suggested he might gain cult status and garner many awards
at 14, at 15 he was employed at a local be suited to a career involving hospitality during its 11-year tenure, offering diners
pub assembling ploughman’s lunches, and travel. It interested him. evocative food that was audacious and
and by 16 he was working at the local Luke trained in England and challenging, yet down to earth when
manor house, grafting in the scullery, Switzerland before working in restaurants you really looked into it. Each of the
waitering and doing odd jobs. in countries such as Malaysia and the excellent-quality ingredients were

120 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


Clockwise from left: lamb, rosemary and
garlic; locally sourced ingredients were
paramount; baby garden vegetables
with ssamjang tofu dip; “In Memory of
Sunday Roast”. Opposite: Luke and Cuan
Butterworth at the pass.

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N EW BO O K E XCLU SIV E

“It is a cookbook
that is fashioned
very much like
a tell-all, revealing
details that
were meant
to stay secret”

like a Rubik’s cube according to personal


taste – if you are brave enought to accept
MATURE CHEDDAR- the challenge.
AND-CHARRED “I think I offer the reader an original
LEEK TWISTS experience and that will give them the
opportunity to hone their cooking skills
and focus on their creative energy. Not
only does the book have recipes that have
been meticulously tested and perfected,
but it also has the story of the restaurant
running through it,” says Luke.
Certainly, it may appear intimidating,
but it is the account of an extraordinary
lifetime and a coveted keepsake. When
I hold it, it feels like I’m handling the
biggest bible in the biggest church.
Even if you never had the opportunity
to dine at The Test Kitchen, the book
may inspire you to explore food in a
way you never imagined – and perhaps
to make a reservation at one of Luke’s
existing award-winning restaurants in
Joburg (The Shortmarket Club and The
Pot Luck Club) and Cape Town (Salon,
The Pot Luck Club and The Test Kitchen
honestly sourced, testament to many behind the mind-bending tiramisu Fledgelings). And it is arguably at the last
close relationships with farmers and starter, consisting of barley risotto, – a reimagined in-service training space
producers Luke maintained over the coffee liver jus and lamb sweetbread. offering young cooks, with no access
years. These were dishes “full of Luke takes a deep dive into the to formal training, expert mentorship
curiosity, commitment and emotion”, principles of cooking, offering new in food and hospitality – that Luke’s
says Blumenthal, describing his first techniques and guiding the reader greatest legacy lies. To quote Blumenthal
experience of dining there in 2012. towards the creation of food that once again, “That is inspirational – only
It’s the stories, methods and is both serious and fun, childlike and someone with a heart full of love can do
ingredients behind those dishes that are imaginative – tiny morel burgers, that.” W ttkfledgelings.co.za
shared in The Test Kitchen, a “cookbook” succulent pig’s head with trotter pie
that is fashioned very much like a tell-all, and a parfait of sunchokes for dessert.
revealing details that were meant to stay He plays on a simple foundation centred
secret. “The very first dessert I ate at around an ingredient he wishes to TOMATO, MOZZARELLA,
the opening of The Test Kitchen was honour, and then adds deeply inspired BASIL
the tomato, mozzarella, basil. And now embellishments like fish bone jelly Yoghurt snowballs, basil granita,
I finally have the coveted recipe for those and curry leaf pesto. Each chapter is olive tuille, poached gooseberries
yoghurt snowballs!” says TASTE food generously detailed and admittedly “This was the very first dessert I ate at the
director Abigail Donnelly (see the recipe, technical, but interspersed with simpler opening of The Test Kitchen and now I finally
right). You’ll also discover how the bread components that come together in a flash. have the coveted recipe for the snowballs!”
course originally served in the Light It feels almost as though each recipe’s – Abigail Donnelly
Room came together, as well as the story building blocks could be switched around

122 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


N EW BO O K E XCLU SIV E

Serves 4 to 6
A LITTLE EFFORT ICONIC RECIPE
Preparation: 1½ hours, plus 6 hours’ “SMILEY” SUCKLING PIG’S HEAD
freezing time “I started cooking pig’s head to see what I could get out of it, and I quickly realised
Cooking: 30 minutes the jowl is the most delicious part, especially when paired with apple and blue
cheese,” says Luke. TASTE’s Abigail Donnelly says she’ll never forget his
For the basil granita: interpretation of the smiley. “It’s incredible to see the work that went into that dish
water 2 cups through the recipe in the book. The pig’s head is cured in many spices and citrus
caster sugar 127 g peel for eight hours, then cooked sous vide for 12 hours, then roasted for two hours
lemon juice ⁄ cup before the jowl is removed and fried until crispy. Served with blue cheese crème,
gelatine 2 leaves compressed apple and wild rosemary honey, the flavours were out of this world.”
picked basil 30 g

For the yoghurt snowballs:


cream ⁄ cup
glucose 35 g
caster sugar 45 g
salt 1 g
gelatine ¾ leaf
plain yoghurt 280 g
whole coconut ½ (alternatively, use 100 g
desiccated coconut)

For the olive tuille:


ground almonds 40 g
flour 32 g
icing sugar 80 g
pitted Kalamata olives
50 g, finely chopped
egg whites 64 g
butter 72 g, melted

For the poached tomatoes and


gooseberries:
caster sugar 250 g
water 250 g
black peppercorns 10
cinnamon 1 stick
baby tomatoes 200 g
gooseberries 100 g The “smiley” was served with
picked basil 40 g blue cheese crème, compressed
apple and wild rosemary honey.
To assemble:
stracciatella di bufala 50 g
picked micro basil 5 g

Specialist equipment:
Blender, muslin cloth, ice-cream
machine, dehydrator, 10 ml Parisienne
scoop, stand mixer, silicone baking mat

1 To make the basil granita, heat the water,


sugar and lemon juice in a pot until the
sugar dissolves. Remove from the heat.
2 Bloom the gelatine in iced water until
softened, then squeeze out and dissolve in
the warm liquid. Strain and allow the liquid
to cool to room temperature. 3 In a blender,
N EW BO O K E XCLU SIV E

blend the basil leaves into the granita base around the plate. Add two large olive 24 x 4.5cm-diameter cake rings and place
and strain the mixture through muslin. tuilles. Finish the plate with a tablespoon onto the tray. Line the cake rings with strips
4 Freeze the granita in a small tray. Once of basil granita and a drizzle of the of parchment paper that stand 2 cm higher
frozen, scrape the ice with a fork and store poaching syrup. than the rings. 6 Make an egg wash by
in the freezer until required. 5 To make the WINE: Les Dauphins Côtes du Rhône mixing the egg yolk and milk in a small
yoghurt snowballs, heat the cream, glucose, bowl. 7 Place the dough onto a lightly
sugar and salt in a large pot until the sugar MATURE CHEDDAR-AND- floured surface and roll into a 60 x 30 cm
dissolves. Remove from the heat. 6 Bloom CHARRED LEEK TWISTS rectangle. With the rectangle horizontal,
the gelatine in iced water until softened, “I have loved all of Luke’s bread offerings from pinch 1 cm from the bottom and fold over;
then squeeze out and dissolve in the warm butternut and sage to French country rolls, tap down until it sticks. 8 Scatter the red
cream. Strain and allow the cream to cool. but this one was a standout every time.” onions in a straight line above and parallel
7 Fold the cream into the yoghurt, then – Abigail Donnelly to the fold. Finely slice the leeks and scatter
churn in an ice-cream machine. Store in in a line above the onions, then follow with
the freezer. 8 Meanwhile, set a dehydrator Makes 24 the grated cheese, forming three distinct
to 100°C. Finely grate the coconut and A LITTLE EFFORT layers. 9 Using a pastry brush, brush a line
dehydrate on a rack for 1 hour until dried. GREAT VALUE of egg wash just above the cheese. Trim off
Allow to cool. 9 Once the sorbet has set, Preparation: 2 hours all the dough above the egg wash (use this
use a 10 ml Parisienne scoop (or melon Baking: 15 minutes excess dough to make a focaccia). 10 Lastly,
baller) to shape the sorbet into balls. Roll sprinkle the thyme leaves all over and roll
the balls in the grated dried coconut to leeks 1 bunch the dough into a tight roulade. The egg
cover and store on a tray in the freezer. canola oil a splash wash will seal the roll. Slice the roulade into
10 To make the olive tuille, blend the Maldon salt a pinch 2.5 cm-wide pieces and place each piece
ground almonds, flour and sugar in the white bread flour 550 g into a prepared cake ring, spiral side up.
bowl of a stand-mixer. Lightly squeeze the caster sugar 30 g Cover the tray with clingfilm and leave to
olives to get rid of any excess liquid, then salt 15 g prove for 50 minutes, or until doubled in
add them to the mixture and blend again water 1½ cups size. 11 Heat the oven to 200°C. Brush the
to combine. 11 In a separate bowl, whisk yeast 15 g tops of the twists with egg wash and bake
the egg whites just until frothy. With the free-range egg yolk 1 for 10–15 minutes, turning the tray around
mixer running, slowly add the melted milk 1 t, plus 2 t halfway through, until the tops are golden
butter, followed by the egg whites. Place red onions 2½, thinly sliced brown. Remove from the oven and allow to
the mixture into the fridge for 30 minutes mature Cheddar 200 g, grated rest for five minutes before removing the
to settle. 12 Heat the oven to 180°C and thyme 4 sprigs, leaves picked rings and paper.
spray a silicone baking mat with cooking MEAT-FREE
spray. Using a palette knife, spread a thin Specialist equipment: WINE: Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection
layer of the tuille mixture onto the mat and Stand mixer with dough hook Chenin Blanc
bake for four minutes until golden (longer attachment, 24 x 4.5 cm-diameter
if necessary). Allow the tuille to cool before cake rings, pastry brush
breaking into shards. 13 To make the
poached tomatoes and gooseberries, 1 Heat the oven to 175°C. Cut the leeks in
heat the sugar, water, peppercorns and half lengthways and wrap in tinfoil with a
cinnamon in a pot over medium heat until splash of oil and a pinch of salt. Roast for
the sugar dissolves. 14 Score the tomatoes 30 minutes, or until soft and slightly
and gooseberries. Bring a separate pot of charred. 2 Place the flour, sugar and salt
water to a rolling boil and blanch the into the bowl of a stand mixer with a
tomatoes and gooseberries for 15 seconds. dough hook attachment and mix to
Immediately refresh in iced water, then combine. 3 In a pot over low heat, bring the
peel. 15 Bring the poaching liquid to the water to between 37°C and 42°C. Add the
boil and add the tomatoes, gooseberries yeast and stir to dissolve. With the mixer on
and basil. Reduce the heat to low and allow low speed, slowly pour the water into the
the mixture to steep for 10 minutes. Cool flour mixture, then mix at medium to high
the tomatoes and gooseberries in the speed until a soft dough forms. Continue
poaching liquid in the fridge. Before kneading until the dough is elastic or has
serving, reduce some of the poaching reached the windowpane stage. 4 Place
liquid to a syrup. 16 To assemble, plate the dough into a clean bowl and cover BUY THE BOOK
three yoghurt snowballs. Scatter five with clingfilm. Leave to prove at room Find The Test Kitchen (Penguin
poached tomatoes and five poached temperature for 40 minutes or until Random House) at bookstores
gooseberries around the snowballs. Dot doubled in size. 5 Line a baking tray with and online for R1 500.
some stracciatella cheese and micro basil parchment paper. Grease the insides of

124 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N

THAT’S A WRAP!
Woolworths’ angelfish goujons are this year’s must-have ingredient for busy home cooks. Air-
fry or oven-bake for 8 minutes and they’re ready to serve with salads for a quick lunch, add
to seafood platters when entertaining, pair with a punchy dipping sauce for a no-fuss after-
school snack, or add to wraps for an easy and filling lunchbox solution. With options this
endless, it’s a no-brainer that these ciabatta-crumbed tenders made with 72% wild-caught
angelfish will be a regular on your shopping list. woolworths.co.za

SERVING
SUGGESTION
Cook 500 g Woolworths
angelfish goujons
according to package
instructions. Mix 3/4 cup
mayonnaise with 4 T
basil pesto and spread
onto 4 wraps. Divide
300 g Woolworths
rainbow slaw between
the wraps, top with
sliced Mediterranean
cucumber and the fish.
Roll up and serve.
PHOTOGRAPH SADIQAH ASSURISMAIL PRODUCTION BRITA DU PLESSIS FOOD ASSISTANT JOSH VAN ZYL
CO OK BO OK E XCLU SIV E

Much-loved food writer Tessa Kiros (who grew up in SA), is known


for cookbooks that chronicle a life spent in many lands. These
recipes from Now & Then are inspired by her travels in Mexico,
Greece and Italy, the country she now calls home
PHOTOGRAPHS MANOS CHATZIKONSTANTIS RECIPES TESSA KIROS

126 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


CUMIN MINCE
KOFTA PLATE

TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 127


CO OK BO OK E XCLU SIV E

BLACK BEAN
TACOS

BREAD OF LIFE
“I make flatbreads with a mix of wholewheat and white flour and cook
them quickly so they remain soft and flexible. (They must be soft if you
want to use them like a wrap, but they are also very good well-cooked
and eaten with butter.) These can be heated on the rack of a grill or in a
fire as if you are making kebabs or souvlaki. Leftovers can be frozen.”
(See page 127.)

128 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


ANAIS’ PINK
GRAPEFRUIT FIZZ
CO OK BO OK E XCLU SIV E

CUMIN MINCE For the flatbreads: roughly chopped parsley 20 g


KOFTA PLATE bread flour 300 g lemon juice 1 T
“My family loves this wonderful meal wholewheat flour 200 g sumac 1 t, plus extra for serving
combination. Spiced grilled meat skewers fresh yeast 12 g (or 1¼ t active dry yeast)
served with flatbread, spicy tomato sauce, a tepid water 1 cup plus 3 T 1 To make the tomato sauce, pound the
dollop of yoghurt and an onion-cucumber honey 1 t garlic in a mortar with very little coarse salt.
salad with sumac. A mixture of lamb on the olive oil 2 T Add the chillies and continue pounding to

NOW & THEN: A COLLECTION OF RECIPES FOR ALWAYS BY TESSA KIROS MURDOCH BOOKS.
skewers keeps them soft, as well as beef with a paste. Put the oil in a heavy-bottomed

PHOTOGRAPHS BY MANOS CHATZIKONSTANTIS. AUTHOR PHOTOGRAPH YASMINE NERI


some fat in it. I find the flavours here so For the koftas: pot, scrape in the garlic-and-chilli paste
rounded and well-balanced as a meal.” beef mince (with some fat in) 450 g and sauté until it smells good. Add the
lamb mince 300 g tomatoes, butter, sugar, 1 t salt, and a little
Serves 4 to 6 red onion 1 (180 g), grated on the coarse pepper. Simmer for about 20 minutes,
A LITTLE EFFORT holes of the grater partly covered if splashing, until broken
GREAT VALUE chopped parsley 70 g (1 packed cup) down and much reduced. Pulse here and
Preparation: 40 minutes, plus ground cumin 2 t there using a hand-held blender (or transfer
1½ hours’ proving time ground coriander 1 t to a processor) to get a mixed consistency.
Cooking: 1 hour sweet paprika 1 t Return to the heat for another 10 minutes
or so, partly covered if splashing, until you
For the tomato piri-piri sauce: For the salted yoghurt: have a fairly tight, jammy sauce. Stir often,
garlic 4 cloves, roughly chopped thick Greek yoghurt 200 g especially at the end. Taste and adjust the
coarse salt full-cream natural yoghurt 70 g seasoning if necessary. Remove from the
tiny dried piri-piri chillies lime quarters, for serving heat. To heat up, the pot can be put directly
about 8, chopped, with seeds olive oil, for serving on the grill beside the grilling meat (I like
olive oil 5 T sumac, for serving this served a bit warm). 2 To make the
ripe tomatoes 850 g (about 6–7), peeled flatbeads, place both flours into a bowl.
and chopped For the onion-cucumber salad: Crumble the yeast into a separate bowl,
butter 30 g small long thin cucumber 1 (220 g) add the tepid water and honey and whisk
light brown sugar ½ t red onion ½ (80 g), sliced lengthways to get things going. Whisk in a handful of

130 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


PANNA COTTA WITH
STRAWBERRY AND
VANILLA BEAN
a little of the parsley on the side for
garnishing) and add 1 t salt and a few
grinds of black pepper. Knead all the
ingredients in the bowl very well, like you
would knead bread, punching it down and
re-kneading, until the mince is very soft
and fine and you have kneaded air into it.
6 Divide the mixture into 10 equal parts
(about 90 g each). Using one part per metal
skewer, mould the meat around the skewer
in a long (16 cm), flat sausage shape
extending from the pointed tip. Moisten
your hands with a little cold water to help
the meat adhere tightly, then gently roll the
kofta and skewer on a wooden board. As
the koftas are made, put them on a platter
and drizzle a little olive oil over the meat.
7 Put the koftas on a rack about 10 cm
away from the hot coals or flame and grill,
turning often and nudging the skewers

ADD SOME HEAT


“I often make guacamole
without chilli as most times
there will be salsa roja and
verde on the table and rajas
(chilli pickle) to splash on your
plate. Otherwise, I like to add
the flour together with the olive oil, cover a little chopped jalapeño or
other chilli.”
and leave to activate for about 10 minutes,
or until you see bubbles on the surface.
Add the rest of the flour and 1 t salt, and
mix with a wooden spoon so it comes Roll out a ball on a lightly with your tongs to roll them
together, then change to your hands flour-dusted surface with a rolling over rather than picking them up, until
and mix to a rough dough, adding a pin to a circle about 22 cm. Just before deep golden and charred in parts
splash more water or a little extra flour if putting into the hot oven, brush the top and smelling good, about 10 minutes. Be
necessary. Turn out onto your work surface surface with very little water and sprinkle careful not to overcook as they will become
and knead well for 5–6 minutes until elastic over a little fine salt onto the trays. 4 Bake dry. Move to a plate, scatter with flaky salt,
and soft – not dry. (Pat your hands with a one at a time on a rack high up in the oven drizzle over some olive oil and keep warm.
little flour if it seems too wet.) Return to the for a couple of minutes until you see a few 8 To make the salted yoghurt, place the
bowl, cover with a tea towel and leave for bubbles on the surface through the glass in yoghurts in a serving bowl and season well
about 1½ hours in a warm spot until well the door. Flip over and cook until bubbly with salt and pepper. Turn through, taste
puffed up. 3 Preheat the oven to 220°C but still quite soft (not crisp). Remove and and adjust the seasoning if needed.
and have 2 or 3 pizza or baking trays ready. wrap in a tea towel while you continue 9 To make the salad, rinse and slice the
Divide the dough into 8 balls (just over cooking the rest. 5 To make the koftas, heat cucumber and halve the rounds if large.
100 g each) and leave them lined up on your coals on an outdoor barbeque. Place Place in a bowl and add the onion, parsley,
your work surface covered with a tea towel. all the ingredients into a bowl, (saving just lemon juice and sumac. Season with salt

132 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


CO OK BO OK E XCLU SIV E

and pepper and turn through. Taste and large dried red chilli 1, left whole a bit before opening, then add about 1½ t
adjust if necessary. 10 To serve, have the small dried hot chillies 3–4 (piri-piri, salt (depending on your broth) and simmer,
warm piri-piri sauce, cucumber salad and scud, bird’s-eye) uncovered now, for about 10 minutes – or
yoghurt ready on the table with lime sunflower oil 1 T until you have a thick, pulpy stew with a
quarters, olive oil and a small bowl of coriander leaves 1 small fistful little liquid pooling on the top. (Stir often
sumac and parsley. Heat the flatbreads lime juice 1 T so the beans don’t burn and use a simmer
quickly (so they don’t get hard) on both mat towards the end if you have one.) If
sides on the grill and put one on each For the pico de gallo: they are not soft enough yet, add a little
plate. Using tongs, slide the meat off its ripe, firm cherry tomatoes water and cook for longer. If not using a
skewer onto the flatbread. Add a couple 200 g, cut into small chunks pressure cooker, cover almost completely
of dollops of tomato sauce, a couple of onion 40 g, chopped with water in a large pot and simmer for
dollops of yoghurt, a scoop of cucumber small sweet green pepper about 1¾–2 hours or until soft, adding an
and onions, finishing with a little drizzle (such as Padrón) 1, chopped extra 3 cups or so of water and the salt
of olive oil and a good squeeze of lime. radishes 3, thinly sliced in the last hour of cooking. 4 When the
HEALTH-CONSCIOUS coriander leaves 1 heaped T chopped beans are ready, tear in a good handful of
WINE: De Wetshof Limestone Hill lime juice 2 T coriander leaves (saving the rest for serving)
Chardonnay pickled jalapeño slices 2, seeded and remove from the heat. Leftover black
and finely chopped (or 1 small green beans can be frozen. 5 To make the salsa
BLACK BEAN TACOS
“I learnt how to make these beans from
Angela Dwyer, friend and Queen of Cooking “This is an anywhere sauce. A wonderful
for me; an incredible chef and teacher. They spoonful on any meal that adds a nice pop
can be served alone – in a more soupy way and a fresh element to everything”
(add more water then) with crumblings
of goodies such as cotija cheese (or feta),
coriander, lime and salsa roja – or in tacos.
If you don’t have time to make them from Serrano chilli) roja, cut the tomatoes into 6 wedges from
scratch, use three cans of drained beans.” brine from the jalapeño jar 2 t the top to bottom, and the onion into 4
wedges. 6 Heat a large non-stick frying pan
Serves 5 to 6 For the guacamole: and add the tomato and onion wedges on
A LITTLE EFFORT ripe avocados 2 their sides. Add the garlic and large chilli
GREAT VALUE onion 2 T very finely chopped in a single layer (keep the small chillies out
Preparation: 20 minutes, plus overnight small cherry tomatoes 4 (35 g), cut up for now) and dry fry until the undersides
soaking time quite small are well charred but not too dark. (The pan
Cooking: 2 hours pickled jalapeño slices 2, finely chopped may look worryingly dark but will come
lime juice 3 T clean with soaking.) Turn everything gently
For the black beans: coriander leaves 1½ T torn to colour all sides. 7 Turn off the heat. Being
dried black beans 400 g, soaked overnight careful not to scrape the pan too much,
olive oil 4 T For serving: remove everything using a fork into a
large onion 1 (230 g), chopped corn or flour tortillas 10–12 medium-sized tall pot. Cut off just the top
garlic 4 cloves, chopped queso fresco, cotija or feta 200 g stem of the large chilli but leave everything
white wine ½ cup limes 2, quartered else whole, including seeds. Add the small
dried red chillies 2 or 3 (or as many as you radishes 3, finely sliced hot dried chillies and ½ cup hot water
like), trimmed, seeded and finely chopped coriander and blend everything together using a
(or 3–4 pinches dried flakes) hand-held blender until smooth (some
coriander 1 medium bunch, leaves picked 1 Drain and rinse the beans. Heat the olive small bits are okay). Add 1 t salt and the oil.
and stems chopped oil in a wide pressure cooker or sauté pan Simmer, partly covered, for 5–6 minutes so
crushed tomatoes 1 x 400 g can with a lid, and sauté the onion. When it changes from a frothy liquid to a chunkier
bay leaves 2 golden and sticky, add the garlic and when sauce. 8 Chop the coriander and add to the
ground coriander 1 t it smells good, add the wine. Let it reduce, pot with the lime juice. Stir through, then
ground cumin 1 t then add the dried chillies, chopped remove from the heat. Taste and adjust the
vegetable broth 3½ cups (or 1 vegetable coriander stems, beans, tomato, bay leaves, seasoning if needed. Any leftover sauce
stock cube with water) ground coriander and cumin. 2 Add the can be kept in the fridge in a glass jar. 9 To
broth or the vegetable stock cube and make the pico de gallo, place the tomatoes,
For the salsa roja: water. Give a couple of grinds of pepper. onion, pepper and radishes into a bowl
ripe tomatoes 3 or 4 (about 400 g) Close the lid on the pressure cooker. After with the coriander, lime juice, jalapeños
onion ½ (70 g), peeled the first whistle, reduce the heat and cook and brine. Scatter in about ½ t salt. Turn
garlic 2 cloves, peeled and left whole for about 40 minutes. 3 Let it cool down through and adjust any flavours. This sauce

TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 133


CO OK BO OK E XCLU SIV E

1½ cups (3 grapefruit)
lime juice 2 T
sparkling mineral water 1½ cups
ice cubes, for serving

Stir the sugar with the boiling water until


dissolved. Cool. To serve, mix the sugar
syrup with all the remaining ingredients in
a jug. Taste and adjust if needed. Divide
a small handful of ice cubes between
4 glasses and pour in the grapefruit mix.
Cheers!
DAIRY-FREE, WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE

PANNA COTTA WITH


STRAWBERRY AND
VANILLA BEAN
“Panna cotta is one of my favourites – so
simple and pure. I love it even just plain,
or with strawberries, and it’s also delicious
with caramel sauce. These will need a few
hours for chilling in the fridge. In summer,
serve on chilled plates (and not outside
when it’s too hot!).”

Makes 6
EASY
GREAT VALUE
Preparation: 15 minutes, plus overnight
chilling time
Cooking: 15 minutes

For the panna cotta:


large gelatine leaves 2½
(each leaf 7 x 23 cm; 12 g total weight)
whipping cream 2 cups
full-cream milk ¾ cup
sugar 65 g
brandy 1 T
vanilla pod ½, split (or ½ t vanilla extract)

For the strawberries:


must have some oomph. 10 To make the WINE: Pierre Jourdan Belle Rosé ripe sweet strawberries 250 g
guacamole, mash some of the avocado lemon juice 2 t
and leave some a bit chunkier in a wide ANAIS’ PINK butter 15 g
bowl for serving. Add the onion, tomatoes, GRAPEFRUIT FIZZ sugar 30 g
jalapeños and lime, season with pepper “These are the cocktails we had on a Greek
and a generous amount of salt to taste island, made by my niece and dear friend. 1 Place the gelatine leaves into a bowl,
– about 1 t – and add the torn coriander She’s always making wonderful things.” snapping them in half if necessary, and
leaves. Mix through gently and taste for cover with cold water. Leave for 10–15
seasoning. Cook’s note: You could add Serves 4 minutes to soften. 2 Meanwhile, place the
a ham bone to the beans while cooking. EASY cream, milk, sugar and brandy into a heavy-
I cook the beans in a pressure cooker, which GREAT VALUE based saucepan. Scrape the seeds of the
cuts down on cooking time. In Mexico, Preparation: 10 minutes vanilla pod into the cream and throw in the
tortillas are often served rolled up like pod. Bring up to a gentle boil, letting the
cigars on the side of the black beans. light brown sugar 40 g flavours mingle. Remove from the heat.
FAT-CONSCIOUS, MEAT-FREE, WHEAT- boiling water 2 T 3 Remove the gelatine from the water with
AND GLUTEN-FREE freshly squeezed ruby grapefruit juice your hands and squeeze to get rid of excess

134 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


CO OK BO OK E XCLU SIV E

CHERRY PIE

TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 135


CO OK BO OK E XCLU SIV E

24 cm pie dish or a springform tin. I like stone the cherries – don’t break all in half
this plain, or with a little unwhipped if possible, just some – and put them into
unsweetened thick cream.” a bowl. Add the sugar, cornflour and vanilla
and turn through to distribute evenly.
Makes 1 x 24 cm pie Scrape out the cherries evenly over the
A LITTLE EFFORT pastry using a spatula, making sure to
GREAT VALUE scrape out all the slurry as well. 6 Roll out
Preparation: 30 minutes, plus 1 hour’s the rest of the pastry to a circle of about
chilling time 25 cm. Lift on your rolling pin and carefully
Cooking: 1 hour lower over the top of the pie. Turn the
bottom pastry edges into the top layer
For the pastry: so they join – and press with the back of
cold butter 185 g, chopped a small spoon to give a rough scalloped
flour 260 g edge and to make sure they are sealed
sugar 40 g together. 7 Whisk the egg and milk
fine salt ¼ t together in a small bowl and brush lightly
cream and milk 1 scant T of each over the pastry. Make 6 or 7 long slashes
(or 2 T half and half) in parallel lines right across the top. Bake
water, shaking it away. Place the gelatine for about 1 hour, rotating the tin after 40
into the hot cream and stir. Leave to cool, For the filling: minutes. The cherry juice will have bubbled
whisking a few times so the gelatine is ripe cherries 620 g up and darkened in parts, and the pastry
evenly distributed. 4 Remove the vanilla sugar 70 g will be deep golden and glossy. Leave to
pod from the cream mixture, then divide cornflour 1 T cool slightly, before serving on its own,
between six 150 ml moulds. When cooled vanilla extract 1 t or with a dollop of thick cream.
completely, cover and chill for about 6 WINE: Haute Cabrière Chardonnay
hours (or overnight) before serving. 5 To To finish: Pinot Noir
make the strawberries, rinse the berries egg yolk 1 mixed with ½ T milk,
with their tops still on, then put into a clean for glazing
tea towel and pat dry. Trim away the tops thick cream, for serving
and cut into quarters, then cut each quarter
into 3 slices (or more if the strawberries are 1 To make the pastry, place the butter, flour,
big). Place them into a bowl, add the lemon sugar and salt into a wide bowl. Working
juice and turn through. 6 Melt the butter in with your fingers, very gently crumble the
a frying pan on a high heat, add the sugar butter into the flour. Bring the flour up from
and strawberries and cook, stirring, for a the bottom of the bowl, as though you
couple of minutes until the sauce is thick are sifting through sand on the beach, and
and smells great. Remove from the heat continue without pressing too hard, until
and leave to cool. 7 To serve, dab around the mix is in small, even, damp clumps.
the edges of the panna cotta to loosen 2 Add the cream and milk or half and half
with your fingertips, then turn upside and bring the dough lightly together into
down into an individual serving bowl. a damp mass. Flatten a little, cover and put
Shake, holding the mould and bowl, quite into the fridge for about an hour to firm
vigorously to loosen the panna cotta until up. (It can also be frozen at this stage.)
you feel it jiggle out of the mould into the 3 On a very well-floured surface and using BUY A COPY
bowl (you might need to dip the bottoms a floured rolling pin, roll the pastry into a Tessa Kiros’s Now & Then
of the moulds into a bowl of hot water rectangle and fold it roughly over itself into (Murdoch, R695) gathers more
for a couple of seconds – no longer – to three. Do this twice to create a few layers than 150 new recipes into a
loosen). Spoon a heaped tablespoon of in the pastry. Take just a little over half the collectable book that’s part
strawberries and sauce around and serve. pastry and roll it out to a circle of about memoir, part recipe book. From
WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE 28 cm in diameter. (The pastry will be very dishes inspired by her Greek-
WINE: Ken Forrester Viognier moist, so don’t press down too hard with Cypriot heritage, to trips to
your rolling pin to avoid sticking.) 4 Lift the Mexico and the food of Italy,
CHERRY PIE pastry up very loosely on your rolling pin where she has lived for the past
“The pastry is delicate to work with – and and carefully lower it into a 24 cm pie dish, two decades, these are the
difficult when it is very hot – but gives a lovely to come about 3 cm up the sides. Trim and dishes that she and her family
rough, flaky result. I try to use as little sugar as neaten the sides. Put into the fridge to chill and friends love most.
I can with the cherries; adjust this depending while you prepare the cherries. Preheat Find it at good bookstores and online.
on the sweetness of your cherries. I use a the oven to 180°C. 5 To make the filling,

136 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N

NUGGETS OF
WISDOM
Kid-friendly and
adult approved!
Woolies’ new
chicken nuggets
are the ultimate
savoury treat.
They’re made from
lightly coated free-
range chicken so
you can achieve
a satisfying crispy,
golden exterior.
Serve with chips
and an array of
dipping sauces
to make a snack
the kids will love
that rivals any fast-
food takeaway.
PHOTOGRAPH SADIQAH ASSURISMAIL PRODUCTION BRITA DU PLESSIS FOOD ASSISTANT JOSH VAN ZYL

woolworths.co.za

SERVING SUGGESTION Cook 400 g Woolworths’ crumbed chicken and 1 kg Woolworths French
fries in an air-fryer for 10–12 minutes, or until golden brown. Mix 1 cup mayonnaise and 1/2 cup sweet
chilli sauce and serve with the chips, nuggets and 350 g lightly pan-fried Bella tomatoes.
LO CAL TRAVE L

WALK
THIS WAY
Book a spot on the four-night Diversity Trail in the methods of convincing local farmers and
Overberg to immerse yourself in the natural beauty landowners to join the collective Walker
Bay Fynbos Conservancy.
of the region and you’ll even be treated to dinner Guests on the trail are based in the
by a Michelin-chef as the grand finale to your trip Bellavista Homestead, which is a few
PHOTOGRAPHS SHAEN ADEY AND HEINER KLAUS TEXT AMI KAPILEVICH kilometres from the Grootbos Private
Nature Reserve, and where each day’s hike
begins and ends. Accommodation
“It’s an orchid,” he gasps, half to us, half is suitably resplendent (our room had a
Christoff to himself. “Such a tiny space … might vast lounge, a kitchenette, and a walk-in
Longland is become … something like a bonsai.”
Christoff is our guide on the four-night
cupboard), and thoughtfully prepared
meals are served either at the manor
lying prone on Diversity Trail in Walker Bay, and in the days house, delivered to various locations on
a rock, his beard to come he will also show us a perfect
leopard footprint in the mud and fresh
the trail, or hosted by local establishments.
The trail is aptly named; it’s not just
almost touching claw marks on a tree. And over a dinner about the Cape Floral Kingdom. There are
the ground. He of baked linefish with a few glasses of
The Giant Periwinkle’s Wind Scorpion
protea-crowned summits with views from
Die Dam to Cape Point. Secret waterfalls
is mesmerised Sauvignon Blanc and Coenraad de Buys in temperate forests growing in the
by a tiny plant Syrah, he will tell us how motion-sensor
cameras on nearby farms have captured
shady crags. Seemingly infinite expanses
of pristine dunes and Martian aolonite
growing out images of leopards prowling the region, outcrops leading to rarely accessible
of a crack. which has been one of the most successful stretches of the Walker Bay coastline.

138 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


LO CAL TRAVE L

The Diversity Trail includes access to the pristine


dunes and coastline of Walker Bay, culminating
in a visit to the Klipgat Cave heritage site.
Opposite: The adventure starts with a cruise
down the Klein River, with its abundant birdlife.
The Klein River’s source is just 5 km from its
mouth, the shortest distance between a river’s
source and its mouth in the world. But the river
is 80 km long as it winds its way around the
Walker Bay mountains.

Ancient moss-covered inland milkwood buzz of distant chainsaws carried by the As we sipped the wines, Hannes Meyer,
forests. Estuaries splashing with birdlife. famous southerly wind of the Uilenkraal the burly and garrulous winemaker,
And the diversity of the trail isn’t just River valley. pointed to two neighbouring vineyards
about the spectrum of biomes that “Hear that?” grinned Christoff. “That’s directly behind us and explained that
guests visit. It’s also about the variety of the sound of nature returning.” Lomond’s vines are grown on a diverse
experiences that have been thoughtfully The vineyards belong to Lomond but distinct set of terroirs, which is how
curated to first induct and then seduce Wines – a farm that’s leading the way in our two Sauvignon Blancs (Lomond’s
you to the region and its people. championing conservation. The chainsaws Sugarbush and Pincushion) can be grown
You will be plied with a fynbos-infused
gin tasting and storied local wines. On
a boat ride along the Klein River you will “The best glass of wine is a chilled cool-
see a wild beehive and an enormous climate Sauvignon Blanc after a 10-km hike”
perennial black sparrowhawk nesting in
a huge tree. There is a guided tour of the
Grootbos Florilegium (an art gallery that
contains illustrations of regional flora and we heard were from one of three teams in adjacent vineyards but have such
fauna) with botanical artworks so finely that the farm employs full time to clear distinct flavours.
drawn that they are best observed through alien vegetation. After a boat ride across the dam, and a
a magnifying glass, followed by a fynbos- At the base of the hill was a trestle table tasting of two Syrahs that reiterated the
inspired tea-tasting. with two bottles in ice buckets: one of the remarkable terroir, we headed for the
On the third day, we crested a hill and best glasses of wine you will ever taste is cellar for a lunch of cheese and charcuterie
were descending into a vineyard-patched a chilled cool-climate Sauvignon Blanc platters, as well as a standing-ovation
dale with a large dam, when we heard the after a 10-km hike. trout pâté made using the sustainable

TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 139


LO CAL TRAVE L

fish farmed on the property. All the while


Hannes would call for more tastings of
some of the rarer and more innovative
wines that he has created and regale us
with stories about the farm (Lomond was
the first estate in South Africa to use screw
caps) and emphasising their heartfelt
commitment to conservation.
But the crowning jewel of the
experience must surely be the six-course
gala dinner at Schneider’s Cape Floral
Kitchen, which is conveniently located
in the homestead itself. Two-Michelin-
starred chef Jurgen Schneider opened
his restaurant at Bellavista after spending
lockdown in his house at nearby De
Kelders. Emerging from retirement, he
created what is arguably South Africa’s
most unique and hidden culinary gem.
“We didn’t find this place,” says chef
Schneider. “It found us.”
Schneider’s restaurant is interpreting
the most diverse botanical biome in the
world into a cornucopia of flavours and
combinations.
Our tasting journey included a
beautiful flourish on the asparagus-like
veldkool (which Christoff invited us to
taste on the first day of our hike); a sweet
but fascinatingly complex gin-infused
pelargonium jelly; a rich and hearty, almost
meaty, wild herb salad; a breathtaking
salty-sweet butternut soup with Khoi
weed foam (made using the kooigoed
plant, which Christoff pointed out on our
second day and explained that Khoisan
people would use this plant as a mattress
to sleep on); a mock truffle made from
fermented mushrooms and dune spinach;
and a chicken roulade with wild sage that
provided a topic of conversation for weeks
after the hike.
Fresh ingredients for the feast are
harvested from the Grootbos Organic
Farm – a Grootbos Foundation initiative
that, while founded on admirable public-
private partnership principles, floundered
on long-term political will. Fortunately, the

Clockwise from top left: The vineyards of Lomond


Wines are cooled by the famous westerly wind of
the region, producing some of the finest true cool-
climate wines; Jurgen Schneider’s pink grapefruit
aspic with H2O gin cream; the milkwood forests
of the region were once inhabited by Italian WWII
POWs, today some of them bear fresh leopard
clawmarks; Jurgen Schneider’s sorrel-and-vanilla
soup is a triumph; two-Michelin-starred chef Jurgen
Schneider continues to forage and delight at the
Bellavista Homestead.

140 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


LO CAL TRAVE L

Grootbos Foundation provided a safety things I learned so many years ago. hectares in 1999 to 47 members and
net to secure three full-time employees “I’ve always wanted to have a botanical 21 700 hectares today.
and a farm manager. menu. There is a certain bitterness in And the more it grows, the more it
Chef Schneider’s gala dinner is not just blossoms. And the smell is actually the is possible to appreciate the sights and
climactic, it is also symbiotic. Imagine smell of the sea. And in the spring the smells and flavours of the Overberg.
hiking through fynbos for four days – bitterness is lighter. And over the years the And the Overberg does have a flavour.
then having the experience reimagined bitterness gets stronger. That is true about It is the sweet-and-sour surprise of a
on a plate. The hike gives you a greater plants. And maybe also about humans.” dew-flecked geeloogsuring. The sour-and-
appreciation for the food, and each Schneider’s restaurant is an ode to its sweet burst of wild grape growing near a
mouthful transports you back into the surroundings, and a further testament shady stream.
wilderness it came from. to the passion that the inhabitants of And the Overberg has an aroma: the
the region feel for the importance of fruit salad-clove explosion of a waxberry.
“I’ve been foraging connection with nature. The heady cinnamon of the night-scented
for 30 years, first The good news is that it’s working. pelargonium. The barely believable
The passion and acumen of locals like Fanta-grape of a fountainbush. An ancient
in Germany, and the legendary Sean Privett, whose incense burning, and reburning, in order
now here,” says brainchild is the Diversity Trail, and to procreate.
chef Schneider Michael Lutzeyer, the benevolent owner Most importantly, however, the
of Grootbos, is paying off. Overberg has a heart. And it beats so
I foraged at Springfontein Eats [his previous The endemic leopard toads and strongly in the chests of some that it
restaurant in Stanford] as well, but this is southern adders are thriving, as are the reverberates in the minds of others.
a little different. More distinct. I started aardvarks, brown hyenas, and black-backed “What a world we live in,” I overhear
experimenting when we moved here, jackal. A stream at Lomond that had been Christoff muttering to himself as he gets
and after a year of retirement I had new dry for decades has started running again. up from observing a tiny orchid in a crack
ideas. And you know it’s easy, actually, to The Walker Bay Fynbos Conservancy in a rock. “What a world.” W
integrate a classic kitchen with all these has grown from 11 members and 8 500 diversitytrail.co.za; schneiders-kitchen.com
STARTERS AND LIGHT MEALS MAIN MEALS and-ginger oil 88
Ajo blanco with pickled frozen white Black bean tacos 133 Steamed tofu and greens with black
grapes and prosciutto 115 Chicken-and-mushroom wontons in garlic vinaigrette 84
Charred green salad 23 chicken broth 84 The new “poke” bowl with nectarines
Cheese soufflé omelette 64 Cumin mince kofta plate 130 and creamy goat’s
Crushed pea-and-baby marrow salad Grilled harissa-and-yoghurt chicken in cheese salsa 76
with lemonade vinaigrette 114 pita breads 96 Tomato-and-spinach
Fried cabbage with tomato curry, salsa, Griddled smoky Mexican pork with spaghetti 21
and crispy curry leaves 68 charred corn, lime and feta slaw 95
Green cannellini beans with sesame- Griddled Tenderstem broccoli with DESSERTS AND BAKING
salt-dusted bread 116 burnt onion petals and blue cheese Cherries on ice with coconut Chuckles
Herby trout ceviche with salt-and- dressing 96 sauce 77
vinegar chips 117 Grilled korma paneer with Cherry pie 136
Juicy peach-and-tomato salad with coconut rice 95 Panna cotta with strawberry and vanilla
crispy onions 44 Grilled puttanesca-inspired Caprese bean 134
Rainbow kachumbari with avo and seed bread toast 98 Raspberry peach melba sundae with
green chilli 114 Grilled squid with crispy onions pistachio macaroons 77
Raw shaved butternut with gochujang and tomato salad 94 Strawberry tart with
dressing and tofu 117 Laksa-poached chicken lemon posset 79
Ripe tomato open sarmies with mayo and noodles 25
and sardines 114 Loaded Tex-Mex sweet potatoes SIDE SERVINGS
Silky steamed eggs with togarashi- with guacamole 22 Flatbreads 130
inspired citrus seasoning 88 Mango noodles with caramel hake Guacamole 133
Sorghum-and-beetroot and tiger’s milk 76 Mature Cheddar-and-charred leek
haddock salad 20 Melting Pot’s West twists 124
Steamed brinjals with sweet soya Coast mussels 108 Pico de gallo 133
and Szechuan salt 87 Pea-and-basil risotto with Salsa roja 133
Steamed tahini milk bread with pickled lemony chilli ricotta 26 Siba’s Deli’s chakalaka 108
cucumber and sriracha Pitas stuffed with Moroccan-style
nut dust 87 meatballs 24 BEVERAGES
Tomato, mozzarella, basil 122 Pork tagliata with Anais’ pink grapefruit fizz 134
Watermelon, cucumber and grape pickled blueberries 76 The busy bee 52
salad with herbed ricotta 78 Steamed angelfish with aromatic garlic- The grape smash 56

142 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024


NUTRITION FIRST, PLEASE
AT WOOLIES, WE LIKE TO THINK THAT IF YOUR BEST FRIEND COULD TALK,
THEY’D ASK FOR NUTRITION FIRST DOG FOOD. EXCLUSIVE TO WOOLWORTHS,
NUTRITION FIRST HAS BEEN SCIENTIFICALLY FORMULATED, WITH LIMITED
INGREDIENTS, TO GIVE YOUR DOG COMPLETE, BALANCED NUTRITION IN
EVERY LIFE STAGE, WHETHER YOU COUNT IN HUMAN OR DOG YEARS.

Strong bones, Healthy skin, Maize, soya & Immune Easy to


healthy joints shiny coat gluten free defence digest

IN STORE | ONLINE | APP


Catch Clem
making harissa-
roasted broccoli
on TASTE’s
social channels
in January.

PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION BIANCA STRYDOM RECIPE CLEM PEDRO FOOD ASSISTANT RAYMAND BUITENDAG

Harissa-roasted broccoli
with whipped feta yoghurt

2024 is the year that plant-based goes back to being about plants. We asked
Clem Pedro to create a dish that could hold its own against a meaty main.
The contender? Harissa-roasted broccoli. Popping with flavour from a combo of
spice and lemon zest, the brassica is piled on top of a layer of lush whipped feta
and yoghurt laced with fresh herbs. Need more convincing? It works hot or cold,
can be done in the air-fryer and is stupendously carb-clever.
144 TASTE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024
PRETORIA

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