Republic of the Philippines

Marikina Polytechnic College

2 Mayor Chanyunco St. Elena, Marikina City 1800

INFORMATION SHEET NO. 4.2

Garment construction process
Darts

Dart is used to give shape to a piece of fabric so that it can fit around the contours of
the body. Some darts are sewn using straight sewn lines and other darts are sewn
using a slightly curved line. Always sew a dart from the point to the wide end.

Dart are the most basic structural elements in sewing and are used in
 The front bodice section, to contour the body.
 The front bodice section, from any perimeter point, toward the apex, to shape
the fabric over the bust, to countour the body.
 The back bodice waist, to fit fabric to the waistline
 The back neck or shoulder seam, to shape the fabric over the upper shoulder
and allow ease over the shoulder blade
 Fitted sleeves, to allow for elbow movement
 The front and back sections of skirts and pants, to shape fabric to the waistline
and allow ease over the hip

PARTS OF DART

3 2

1. Dart width: The distance between the dartlines at the widest point.
2. Dartlines / dart legs: Stitching lines of the dart that outline the shape of
the dart. After the dart has been stitched, the dartline is the seamline of the
dart.
3. Dart length: The length of the stitched dartline.
4. Dart point, dart end/ apex: In the sewing room, the narrowest part of the
dart, located at the end. It should point to the body curve. In patternmaking,
the pivot or bust point on the pattern.
 Republic of the Philippines
Marikina Polytechnic College
2 Mayor Chanyunco St. Elena, Marikina City 1800

Kinds of Darts

1. Plain dart – is the most common type of dart and is used to give shaping to
the bust in the bodice. It is also found at the waist in skirts and pants to
give shape from the waist to the hip. Also knowns as “tappered dart”

2. Contour or double pointed dart. This type of dart is like two darts joined
together at the fat end. It ihape at the waist of a garment. It will contour the
fabric from the bust into the waist and then out again from the hip. Also
knowns as “fisheye dart”

Shaping darts to fit: The dart can be sewn slightly concave or convex so it follows our
contours. Do not move the curve out by more than ¼ inch

 Convex dart - use this for fuller shapes. Sew the dart slightly inside the normal
stitching line, to make a smooth, convex curve.
 Concave curve – this is for thinner bodies as is takes up more fabric. Sew the
dart slightly outside the normal line of stitches, in a smooth concave curve.

CONVEX CONCAVE
 Republic of the Philippines
Marikina Polytechnic College
2 Mayor Chanyunco St. Elena, Marikina City 1800

https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2015/08/19/qa-where-to-place-bust-dart-points

Dart Location

1. Mid-shoulder dart- half of the shoulder and connect it to the tip point of
waistline dart.
2. Mid-neckline dart- half of the neckline and connect it to the tip point of
waistline dart.
3. Mid-armhole dart- half of the armhole and connect it to the tip point of
waistline dart.
4. Under arm/ straight (side) dart. Bust level and connect it to the tip point of
waistline dart.
5. French dart - measure one inch (1”) from bottom to upward and connect it to
the tip point of waistline dart.
6. Center front dart/ center front level - half of the length of the center front
and connect it to the tip point of waistline dart.
7. Center front neck dart - from the center front of the neck and connect it to the
tip point of waistline dart.

8. Center front waist dart - from the center front of the waist and connect it to
the tip point of waistline dart.
9. Shoulder-tip dart - from the shoulder and connect it to the tip point of
waistline dart.

TIPS:

Securing Dart Ends

1. Thread chain – chaining off.
2. Stitch the fold – stitching the fold.
3. Edgestitch the dart – edge stitching the dart line.
4. Knot- knotting the thread.
5. Hide the threads – hiding the threads.

Pressing Darts
All darts should be pressed so there is no pressing imprint on the face side of
the garment. To achieve this, darts should be pressed immediately after
construction and before the section of the garment is joined to another.
1. Place the garment wrong side up and press the dartline flat as it was sewn
to marry the stitches. Do not press beyond the end of the dart.
2. Open the garment out with the wrong side up, place the garment on a ham
or pressing cushion. Press the dart to one side with just the point of the iron
on the stitched line. Press lightly to avoid a pressing imprint on the outside
of the garment.