TOPIC LIST:

1. Collars
2. Sleeves
3. Cuffs
4. Waist finishes
5. Pockets
6. Edge finishes
7. Fastenings
8. Decoration and embellishment
9. Pressing and ironing
10. Labelling of textiles items.
11. Project work

Collar

A collar is a piece of fabric attached to the neckline. It comes in a variety of

styles, shapes and sizes. Collars are generally classified in three types: flat,
standing or rolled. The two-piece shirt collar is developed from the roll collar
and standing collar.

The following are the examples of collars:

Flat collar Standing collar Rolled collar Two-piece shirt

collar

The following are the procedures of making collars:

(i) Constructing the Standing Collar

Step-1: Fuse interlining to wrong side

of one of the collar band

Step-2: Turn in seam allowance and

stitch the folded edge

Step-3: Put the two collar bands with

right sides together, run
stitch collar

Step-4: Trim and clip seam

Step-5: Turn and press.

(ii) Constructing the Flat Collars, Rolled Collars and Two-piece Shirt Collars

This method is used for flat collars and rolled collars:

Step-1: Put the collar pieces with right
sides together. Fuse interlining
to wrong side of one of the
collar pieces
Step-2: Run stitch and trim seam
allowance

Step-3 Turn collar to right side

 Step-4: Leave collar plain or topstitch
around edge of collar

This method is used for two-piece shirt collars:

Step-1: Put the collar pieces with right

sides together. Fuse interlining
to wrong side of one of the
collar pieces
Step-2: Run stitch and trim seam
allowance

Step-3 Turn collar to right side

Step-4: Leave collar plain or topstitch

around edge of collar
Step-5: Fuse interlining to wrong side
of one of the collar band

Step-6: Turn in seam allowance and

stitch the folded edge

Step-7: Faces sides up, stack the collar

on the band with no interlining.
Then place the interlined band
on top, wrong side up. Stitch
the collar band to the collar
Step-8: Trim and clip seam.
 Step-9: Turn and press. Turn in seam
allowance and stitch the folded
edge

(iii) Attaching Collars to Garment

This method is used for shirt collar and standing collar:

Step-1: With right sides together,

match the stand to the
garment along the neck
seamline.
Step-2: Stitch the under collar band to
neckline; secure the stitching
at both ends.

Step-3: Turn in seam allowance and

machine stitch close to edge

This method is used for flat collar and rolled collar (collar with neckline
facing):

Step-1: Sew the shoulder seams of the

garment and the facing pieces
together

Step-2: Machine baste collar to neck

edge
 Step-3: Pin facing to neckline, with
right sides together. Match all
markings and stitch neckline
seam. Trim and clip seam
allowance

Step-4: Turn the facing to the inside

and press

Step-5: Under stitch facing to neck

seam allowances

Sleeves

A sleeve is the part of the garment that covers the arm. The sleeve usually
joins the garment in a seam that encircles the arm over the shoulder. Sleeves
can be long or short, narrow or full, gathered or pleated. Sleeves can be
finished at the bottom edge with a hem, facing, casing or cuff.
The following are the examples of sleeves:

a) Set-in b) Raglan c) Kimono

(i) Set-in Sleeve

Set-in sleeves fit the body more closely than others. The head of a set-in-
sleeve is always cut larger than its armhole to allow room for movement and
this extra fullness should be distributed round the upper part of the armhole.
Sleeves should be correctly positioned in the armhole by matching notches
ensuring that the fullness is appropriately distributed.

There are two methods for sewing a set-in sleeve:

• Shirt sleeve method (flat construction method)

Shirt sleeve method permits the sleeve to be sewn into the armhole before the
garment side and sleeve seams are stitched. There is very little curve in the
sleeve head and also very little ease stitching required in the sleeve head when
attaching the sleeve to the garment.

Sleeve head is less

rounded because of
shallower curve
The sketch of the shirt sleeve and its pattern

The following is an example of attaching a sleeve by shirt sleeve method:

 Step-1: With right side together, pin and
match sleeve to armhole

Step-2: Stitch seam to armhole

WS

Step-3: Stitch underarm garment and

sleeve seam

• Set-in sleeve method

Set-in sleeve method is firstly stitching the underarm seam of the sleeve and
the side seam of the garment respectively. Then the sleeve is attached to the
armhole.

Standard set-in sleeve One-piece sleeve pattern

Example of set-in sleeves and pattern

The following is an example of attaching a sleeve by set-in sleeve method:

To prepare the garment for the sleeve, sew the underarm seam on the sleeve
and the side seam of the garment.
Step-1: Machine bastes two rows of ease
stitching within the seam allowance

Step-2: Stitch underarm seam of sleeve and

press open

Step-3: Insert sleeve into armhole with right

sides together; pin at all matched
marking

Step-4: To draw up sleeve fullness, pull the

thread from ease stitching line;
distribute eased fullness evenly along
the head

Step-5: Stitch sleeve to armhole

(ii) Raglan Sleeve

A raglan sleeve is attached to the garment by a seam that runs diagonally down
from the neckline to the underarm. A raglan sleeve is designed for comfort and
ease.

For some designs, a dart at the shoulder is used for fitting purpose.

The following is an example of making raglan sleeves:

Step-1: Make the dart at the

shoulder

Step-2: Stitch seams of sleeve to

garment, with right sides
together, match notches and
underarm seams

Step-3: Stitch underarm seam of

sleeve and side seam
(iii) Kimono Sleeve

Kimono sleeve is cut in one piece with the front and back of the
garment The following are the procedures of making kimono sleeves:
Step-1: Stitch shoulder seam, right
sides together and press open
Step-2: Stitch underarm seam with
right sides facing and match
Step-3: Clip seam allowances along
curve. Press seam open

Step-4: Sew a piece of tape over the

curved side seam to give extra
strength

CUFFS
A cuff is an additional piece of fabric sewn at the end of each sleeve. It
serves as an enclosure for the wrists, and it comes in various styles.
These days, it is possible to sew replaceable cuffs since they are prone to
get worn out faster than the rest of the shirts.
TYPES OF CUFFS
 Convertible cuffs
 Link cuffs
 Buttoned cuffs
 Straight band cuffs
BUTTONED CUFFS
This style is considered the most common types of cuffs, and they are
common in casual wear and business attire. They are typically done with
two horizontally placed buttons with ¾-inch space in between. There is also
a certain make where the buttons are placed vertically, but you will only
see this style in custom-made or fashion-forward shirts.
Waistline Finishes

Waistband and waistline finishes hold garments in proper position on the body.
The waistline edge of a garment can be finished with a waistband, facing,
elastic or drawstring casing as follows:

Waistband Facing Drawstring Casing or Elastic

(ii) Waistband

A waistband is a strip of fabric attached to the waistline of skirts, pants or

shorts. It can be cut straight or curved. Waistbands are always interlined to
prevent stretching, rolling and wrinkling.

The following is an example of attaching a waistband:

 Step-1: Attach interlining to wrong side of
waistband

Step-2: Pin right side of waistband to wrong

side of garment, matching notches
and stitch
Step-3: Stitch ends of waistband with right
sides together
Step-4: Trim, clip corners and turn waistband
right side out

Step-5: Fold waistband over seamline to right

side of garment
Step-6: Topstitch along bottom edge of
waistband close to fold

(iii) Waistline Facing

The waistline facing piece is stitched to the raw edge of waistline. It allows
the finished edge of a garment to rest at the natural waistline. It provides a
clean, smooth finish that does not extend above the waistline edge.

The following is an example of attaching a waistline facing:

Step-1: Attach interlining to the facing

pieces
Step-2: Join the side seams of the front and
back waist facing
Step-3: Finish the lower edge of facing with
overlock stitching or a hem
Step-4: Sew the waistline of the facing to
 the right side of the waist seam

Step-5: Under stitch facing to seam

allowance

Step-6: Turn the facing to the inside of the

garment and slipstitch at the side
seam and to zipper tape

(iv) Drawstring Casing or Elastic Casing

The drawstring or elastic is inserted in sewn casing area. The drawstring or

elastic will allow the garment to be passed through the hip and fit the waist
comfortably.
• Drawstring casing

The following is an example of preparing a drawstring casing:

Step-1: Prepare a drawstring of which the

length is twice of the waistline for
running into the casing
Step-2: Make two eyelets which should be
placed 2.5 cm from the centre front,
in the middle of the waistband casing

Step-3: Overlock or press the upper edge of

the waist area
Step-4: Fold and stitch the waistline casing
 Step-5: Make a double row top stitching in the
middle of the waistband casing area

Step-6: Insert a drawstring through the

eyelets into the double row of
topstitching. Evenly space the
waistline fullness

• Elastic casing

The following are the procedures of preparing an elastic casing:

Step-1: Lay elastic into a casing and fix

both ends of the elastic with the
safety pins. Take care not to twist
the elastic

W
S

Step-2: Connect ends of elastic by

stitching a square on the
overlapped area and crisscrossing
it for strength

Step-3: Close the opening by edge-

stitching
(H) Pockets

Pockets are small bags sewn either on the outside of a garment or into a
garment seam or opening. Pockets can be functional, decorative or a
combination of the two.

There are many different types of pockets. The following are being used
commonly:

Patch pockets In-seam pockets Front hip pockets

(i) Patch Pockets

Patch pockets are sewn on the surface of garment. They can have rounded or
square corners at the base. Patch pockets can be styled into skirts, pants,
blouses, shirts, jackets or coats.

The following are the procedures of making different forms of patch pockets:

Step-1: Turn under top edge of

pocket hem 6 mm, and
press
Step-2: Turn the upper edge
along fold line; press and
stitch

For rounded pockets,

bastes around curved
edges

Step-3: Turn in remaining seam

allowances. For rounded
pockets, pull thread to
ease in fullness on curves. Square
Notch curves (if
necessary) and press

Pointed

Round

Step-4: Topstitch around edge of

pocket in place.
Reinforce corners by
backstitching or by
stitching a small triangle
or square
(ii) In-seam Pockets

In seam pockets are sewn into the seam of a garment, usually the side seam.
They cannot be seen when the garment is worn. They can be cut as part of the
garment front and back or it can be cut from a separate pattern piece and
stitched to the seam.

All-in-one in-seam In-seam pocket with In-seam pocket without

pocket extension extension
The following are the procedures of making in-seam pockets with extension:

Step-1: Stitch one pocket section to

each front and back extension

Step-2: Press seam towards pocket

 Step-3: Pin right sides together and
marking matched

Step-4: Stitch along seam and around

pocket, reinforce corners of
pocket with small stitches
ws
Step-5: Clip seam allowance of back section
of garment at the corners and
press open the garment seam
allowances above and below the
pocket

Step-6: Finish and reinforce raw edges of

pocket with an overlock stitch ws
(iii) Front-hip Pockets

Front hip pockets are angled or curved pocket designs on the front of pants
and skirts. They are attached to the waist and side seam of the garment.

The following are the procedures of making front-hip pockets:

Step-1: Cut a pocket piece and a

facing piece.

Step-2: Pin and stitch pocket facing

to the garment, right sides
together, along opening edge
of pocket
Step-3: Trim the seam allowance and
notch curves
Step-4: Understitch or topstitch
seam to keep it from rolling
to the right side of garment

Step-5: Pin pocket to facing, right

sides together, along the
pocket curved edge

Step-6: Pin the pocket in place by

matching the waistline and
side seam of the garment.
Machine bastes along these
edges
Step-7: Stitch pocket facing and the
under pocket around the
curved edges of the pocket