WEAVING TECHNOLOGY

Woven Fabrics
process of interlacing two sets of yarns at right angles.

Yarns lie along the vertical direction are warp yarns while
those lie to the horizontal direction are weft threads.
 Yarn Preparation woven fabric
 Good yarn preparation is important for efficiency and fabric quality.
 Yarns from spinning machine is not suitable for direct use to form fabrics.
 The warp yarns subjected to higher stresses than the weft yarns.
 Therefore, the preparations of warp and weft yarns are different.

Process flow chart of yarn from spinning to weaving

Winding process:
 Transfer of yarn from one form of package to another but, under
proper tension and in proper manner(remove yarn faults)
Warping
 Many warp yarns are processed together to produce a warp beam.
 Yarn cones are placed on the creel and wound side-by-side under
uniform tension to produce a large parallel warp beam.
Sizing or slashing process
 Although many faults of the warp yarns are removed at winding
and warping, the yarns are not yet good enough to withstand
the abrasive actions at weaving.
 The yarn is coated with sizing with the help of slasher machine.
 The sized yarns are then wound on a final warp beam and are
ready for the loom.
Objectives of sizing:
 To increase the strength of yarn
 To get the required number of ends
 To cover the hairiness of yarn
 To make yarn surface smooth and pliable.
 To maintain flexibility in yarn
Drawing-in and Tying-in:

 Drawing-in is the process of threading each warp yarn through the drop wire,
heddles and the reed.

 Tying-in is the cutting-off of the old warp and end-to-end tying of the yarns from
the new beam .
Basic motions of a weaving machine
 Basic motions of weving

To produce woven fabric, three operations are necessary

1.Shedding
Lifting of some of warp yarns to divide in to two
sheets. This creates an opening (shed) between them.

2.Picking
Passing the weft thread through the shed

3.Beating up
Pushing the newly inserted pick in to the already
woven fabric.
Weaving and Woven Fabric

The interlacing of warp and weft yarns is

accomplished with a machine known as ‘loom’
They may be a hand loom or a power loom
The power loom is referred as the weaving machine
Selvage

 Two salvages parallel to warp yarn direction

or length direction .

 How do you identify the length direction of a

sample without selvages?

 Select the direction with high yarn density.

How to decide the warp direction
In warp direction no. threads per inch is high.

Warp yarns have high twist.

Warp yarns finer (less count) than weft –yarns.

Warp yarns have less crimp.

warp yarns are filaments out of spun and filament

plied yarn is probably warp for single and plied yarns

Size particles are available at warp yarns

Terms related woven fabrics.
 Warp yarn - Set of lengthwise yarns

 Weft yarn - Set of crosswise yarns

 End/ends - Single lengthwise yarn/yarns

 Pick/picks - Single crosswise yarn/yarns

 GSM- Weight in grams value of a fabric per square meter

 Warp count – Thickness of warp yarn

 Weft count- thickness of weft yarn

 Weave- Interlacing pattern of warp and weft yarns

 Fabric density- Total number of warp and weft yarns in a square area.
Fabric Notation

 Standard method of indicating important parameters of woven fabric.

 Warp yarn count X Weft yarn count , width, composition, weave,

finishes
Warp density X weft density

 Ex: 30 s X 20 s , 60”, 65% 35% Polyester/cotton, twill, soft finish

108 X 60
 Woven fabric quality parameters

Warp yarn=ends

Weft yarn =Picks

 Ends per Inch – E.P.I.

 Picks per Inch – P.P.I.

With high E.P.I. and P.P.I., fabric will be more strong, thicker
and heavier.
Fabric construction parameters and characteristics.
 Constructional parameters
 Fibre composition
 Warp count / Weft count
 EPI /PPI
 Weave
 GSm
 Cut table width

Characteristics of woven fabric

 Strength
 Strechability
 Thickness
 Dimensional stability
 Drapability
 Hand feel
 Crease recovery