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The TrusTrace Traceability Roadmap

is a practical guide to implementing

traceability in your company’s supply

chain. Aligning theory with real-life

case studies, interviews and useful

tools to support your journey, the

Roadmap is a holistic guide to

implementing traceability from

ideation to rollout and beyond.

1
Contributors

Author
Megan is a Sustainable Fashion Journalist and
Content Editor at TrusTrace, whose byline appears
Megan Doyle

in Harper’s Bazaar, the Business of Fashion,


Sustainable Fashion
Refinery29, EcoCult and others, covering fashion
Journalist tech, garment worker rights, traceability &
transparency, material innovation and more.

Managing Editor
Heading up marketing and educational efforts, Anja
is the driving force behind TrusTrace's efforts to
share insights and facilitate data-based
Anja Sadock

collaboration in the industry. Anja is the managing


Head of Marketing

editor of 'The Traceability Playbook' and ‘The


at TrusTrace
Traceability Roadmap’, as well as 'The Knowledge
Hub' - a platform for key legislation and traceability
insights.

Case Studies and Interviews


Baptiste

Carriere-Pradal
As chair of Policy Hub and Co-founder of 2BPolicy,
Chair of Policy Hub
Baptiste is helping to unite the apparel and footwear
and co-founder of industry to speak in one voice and propose policies
2BPolicy that accelerate circular and sustainable practices.

Cecilia
Cecilia leads the Maritime Anti-Corruption Network,
Müller Torbrand
a global business network working toward the vision
Chief Executive Officer of a maritime industry free of corruption that enables
of the Maritime
fair trade to the benefit of society at large. She is an
Anti-Corruption Network experienced anti-corruption expert with 15 years of
expertise in the compliance field.

2
As an Innovation Analyst at ashion for Good s
F ’

J a e Crowle
m s y
Innovation Platform, ames focuses on
J

Innovation Analyst at
transparency and traceability initiatives, innovation,
F ashion for Good and implementation for brands and associated
partners.

Karolin is a Product Specialist at GS1 standards,


creating the opportunity for companies of all sizes to
Karolin Catela

identify, capture and share unique information,


Product Specialist at

across the entire supply chain. Karolin is a specialist


GS1 Sweden
in traceability with years of experience in
standardization, development and implementation
across industries and in different companies.

Kit is Vice President at the research and data


analytics firm, Kharon. He helps lead global
Kit Conklin
business development and advises clients on the
Vice President of Kharon use of data to augment and scale sustainability,
traceability, and geopolitical risk management
programs.

Matthew Xu, a corporate compliance and


sustainability expert with 20+ years of experience, is
Matthew Xu
currently leading CSR & Sustainability in ASICS
CSR and Sustainability North America. He has developed ESG strategies,
Lead at ASICS implemented ethical sourcing and vendor
management programs, and provided sustainable
solutions for major global companies.

Natalie Grillon is Executive Director of Open Supply


Hub, an accessible, collaborative, supply chain
Natalie Grillon
mapping platform, used by stakeholders across
Executive Director of
sectors and supply chains. Championing access to
Open Supply Hub open data and transparent practices, Natalie has
worked for a decade to launch innovative solutions
to complex problems in global supply chains.

Sherr a ay F z l

Sherry is the Senior Manager of Global ESG &


Senior Manager, Global Sustainability Solutions at apestry. She has over
T

ESG & Sustainability 20 years of experience in Information echnology &


T

Solutions at apestry
T
Integrated usiness Processes and is establishing
B

the digital core for a multi brand operating model.


-

3
Advisors
As the co-founder and CTO of TrusTrace, Madhav
oversees the Product, Engineering and
Madhava Venkatesh
Sustainability/Innovation teams and sets the product
Co-founder & Chief and technology vision for the company. Madhava
Technology Officer at has been building solutions for 22+ years in cutting-
TrusTrace edge technology areas like Cloud & IoT, is a
member of the Forbes Technology Council.

As the co-founder and COO of TrusTrace, Sarva


leads the business operations and has extensive
Saravanan Parisutham
experience in leveraging technology to solve
Co-founder and Chief complex challenges. He has overseen numerous
Operating Officer at enterprise-scale traceability implementations,
TrusTrace helping brands achieve their business and
traceability goals successfully.

Special Thanks To
Jenny Wärn, Jo Johnston, Jocelyn Chan, Krister Gangfløt, Ramanathan Venkataraman, Santosh
Mohanram and Shameek Ghosh.

About TrusTrace
About Fashion for Good

TrusTrace was founded in 2016, with the objective Fashion for Good is the global platform for
to fundamentally change the way fashion is innovation. Fashion for Good unites the entire
produced and consumed, after the four founders fashion ecosystem, from brands, manufacturers and
witnessed the detrimental effects of pollution of the suppliers, to consumers, to collaborate and drive the
local rivers, soil and air coming from unregulated change towards a circular industry.

dying factories and textile manufacturers in their


local community in Coimbatore, India. 

At the core of Fashion for Good is its Global


Innovation Programme. The Innovation Programme
TrusTrace offers a market-leading platform for supports disruptive innovators on their journey to
supply chain traceability and compliance, that scale, providing hands-on project management,
empowers brands to know, prove and improve the access to funding and a robust ecosystem of
impact of their supply chain. The validated data mentors and experts. Fashion for Good also initiates
collected through the platform can be used for risk Foundational Projects, consortium projects that
management, compliance, product claims, footprint bring innovators, brands, manufacturers and
calculations, the ability to confidently and easily funders together to validate technologies and
share data about product origin and impact, and processes, to accelerate supply chain
much more.
implementation.
4
TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION 6
DEFINING YOUR NEEDS 9
Defining Goals, Objectives and Outcomes 11
Industry Drivers 12
Key Considerations 14
Case Study: How Tapestry Defined its Goals 16
NAVIGATING LEGISLATION AND COMPLIANCE NEEDS 17
Three Categories of Legislation 18
Gathering Data for Compliance 19
Interview: Impact and Future of the UFLPA 21
Interview: Anticipating and Preparing for Incoming Laws 24
ENSURING YOUR ORGANIZATION IS ALIGNED AND READY 27
Internal and External alignment 28
Assess Your Readiness 29
Sourcing Models 30
Key Considerations 32
Case Study: Launching the ASICS Traceability Transformation 34
Case Study: How Tapestry Ensured Organizational Readiness 36
Find the Right Solution for Your Needs by Fashion For Good 37
The Traceability Innovation Landscape 39
Case Study: How Tapestry Found the Right Solution for Its Needs 43
How to make your implementation successful 44
Timeline and Planning 45
Prepare for Program Rollout 46
Project Team, Roles and Responsibilities 48
Key Considerations 50
Case Study: How Tapestry Launched a Successful Pilot Program 52
WHAT HAPPENS NEXT 53
Interview: Standardizing Traceability Industry-Wide 55
Interview: Taking Cues from the Maritime Anti-Corruption Network 57
Interview: Envisioning Fashion’s Traceable Future 59
A CALL TO ACTION 61
TOOLKIT 63
How to Calculate Return on Investment 65
Define Your Vision, Goals and Milestones for Traceability 68
Define Your Team and Establish Roles & Responsibilities 69
Define Your Program Roadmap for Implementation 70
GLOSSARY 71
INTRODUCTION

6
INTRODUCTION

Shameek Ghosh

Despite a widespread understanding of its


CEO and Co-founder
importance, there is still not enough
TrusTrace established knowledge on exactly how to
achieve traceability.

In just a few short years, supply chain


traceability has been recognized as the

The first playbook established the Three
Levels of Traceability — Supplier Mapping,
central tenet of the fashion industry’s Product Traceability and Material
sustainability transformation. Despite a Traceability — and detailed how to achieve
widespread understanding of its these vital rungs on a ladder towards total
importance, both to achieve internal supply chain visibility.

sustainability commitments and comply


with legislation, there is still not enough As the why of traceability has become
established knowledge on exactly how to clear, the next question is how do you
achieve traceability.

actually achieve it? Our ambition with the


Traceability Roadmap is to help you
There is no sustainability without understand and achieve this. We have
traceability. Regardless of whether brands expanded on the foundational knowledge
want to avoid greenwashing, communicate from the previous book with a practical
product information with consumers, guide to every stage of the traceability
adhere to labeling criteria, or abide by journey.

increasingly robust regulations, all of this


can only be achieved by identifying and While the examples in this book are from
tracing a complex network of suppliers and the apparel & footwear industry, the
manufacturers.

methodology can be a useful reference for


other industries that share similarly
In TrusTrace’s first Traceability Playbook, complex and high-impact supply chains. 

released in June 2022, we outlined the


business case for implementing traceability The fact is, there is no easy or immediate
and the wider considerations for brands — solution to establishing robust traceability.
including incoming regulation, material Each supply chain and each business is
innovation, and the circular economy. unique, so the right solution depends on a
range of factors — from the size of
7
your business and goals you want to The Traceability Roadmap is broken into
achieve to the maturity of your processes distinct sections: the theory, key
and the product categories you operate in.

considerations, secrets to success, case


studies to help you understand how brands
To give a comprehensive overview of the have applied the theory to their own
traceability and sustainability solutions on traceability journey, plus interviews with
the market, we have collaborated with the experts, and a toolkit with downloadable
sustainability accelerator Fashion for Good, templates that you can use to get started. 

who were also part of the first playbook. 

We have collaborated with sportswear


One thing is for sure — capturing, brand ASICS and Tapestry, owner of
analyzing and building strategies based on Coach, Kate Spade, Stuart Weitzman and
primary data is essential, no matter the size newly launched Coachtopia, on a series of
of your business. So many of fashion’s real-life case studies explaining how these
ESG commitments thus far have been groups established their own traceability
founded on generalizations and secondary programs with the support of TrusTrace.

data points that are outdated, vague or


downright incorrect.

In this Roadmap, we will cover how to


define your business's traceability needs,
It’s no wonder that fashion has made little ensure your readiness for traceability, find
progress in reducing overall emissions.

the right solution provider, and guarantee a


successful implementation. In the final
Across the industry, everyone from the C- chapter, we discuss the importance of
suite to sustainability, legal, production and continuous development post-
sourcing teams are facing unprecedented implementation to ensure the return on
challenges and demands in this arena. your traceability investment.
Everyone has an important role to play in
ensuring that traceability not only gives you
data, but enables you to create impact. We
are here to support you by sharing the best
practice for supply chain traceability, based
on our years of experience in implementing
global traceability programs.  

The Traceability Roadmap is here to


educate, support, and guide you on your
journey. It is divided into sections that
mirror the journey a typical company will go
through when initiating and implementing a
traceability program. 

8
DEFINING
YOUR NEEDS

OUTCOME OF THIS CHAPTER

This chapter will give you a clear


understanding of business needs
across functions that drive traceability,
as well as the key challenges in
achieving those needs. It will help you
to identify your goals, outcomes,
success indicators, and prepare you to
calculate to return on investment to
ensure buy-in from your stakeholders.
9
DEFINING YOUR NEEDS

With no one size fits all traceability solution, To gain the support of decision-makers in

it’s crucial that each company rigorously your company, it’s important to present the

investigates and defines its needs when business case for a traceability platform.

developing a traceability strategy. At The selling points go far beyond achieving

TrusTrace, we have seen many companies compliance or ESG commitments — the

get stuck in analysis paralysis — unable to data acquired through a traceability system

move forward with a clear strategy because can help to make your company more

they’re thinking too long-term. 

efficient too.

In an ever-changing traceability landscape, So, how should you approach your

it’s important not get distracted by the traceability strategy? By investing in

uncertainty of what’s to come. Legislation, traceability solution providers that you trust

a tumultuous economy and unforeseen to help you reach your short-, medium- and

global events continue to shift the priorities long-term goals.

and actions of the industry, and it is

impossible to have perfect knowledge To define these, think beyond current

when you set out to implement traceability.

legislative requirements and create a more

holistic strategy that will make your

When building a plan without knowing the businesses robust and future-proof.

exact challenges you might face along the

way, it’s critical to strike the right balance

between developing a long-term vision and

ensuring you get started. 

10
Defining Goals, Objectives What are your objectives? 

The specific objectives you want to achieve


and Outcomes in order to reach your goals. These could
include:
Without establishing your goals, objectives
and desired outcomes, a traceability % To ensure your products and supply
program is sure to derail and will fail to chain comply with regulations in all the
create a meaningful impact. Before regions you sell i!
starting, define the following: 

% To make accurate product claims


through the correct sustainability labels
What are your goals?
% To confidently communicate
The business drivers pushing your sustainability credentials to consumers
organization towards a traceability without greenwashin)
solution. These could includee % To audit your supply chain for fair labor
conditions or assess its environmental
% To comply with regulations like the footprint in order to identify how to
European Commission’s Green Claims improve

Directive, the Uyghur Forced Labor


Prevention Act (UFLPA), and the What are your desired outcomes?

German Supply Chain Act to secure The measurable benefits that will signal the
presence in key market success of this initiative. These could
% To sell your products through retailers include:
with stringent sustainability policies
% To attract conscious consumers with % To ensure all sustainability claims are
evidence-based claims about your backed up by robust dat
products % To automate the labeling of products
% To increase stock price or attract sold through online retailer
sustainability investments like green % To ensure the availability of all
bond information for regulatory compliance in
% To make meaningful impact in your one single location
supply chains to reduce carbon % To communicate with your suppliers on
emissions, improve biodiversity, and a common platform and manage data
enable social changes

collectio!
% To improve the accuracy of your data
and reduce the workload for you and
your suppliers

11
Industry Drivert Companies keen to support their
suppliers through this transition to more
fn Compliance with Legislation 

sustainable materials need to be able to


identify and collaborate with them.
Legislation is a driving factor in the
industry’s push to implement traceability. 3 Circularity Companies committed to
The spectrum of laws and regulations that implementing repairs, recycling or
are linked to traceability is broad (and resale schemes should collect data on
continuously expanding) which makes it the products and materials received
difficult to know exactly what data your back into their ecosystem. This includes
business should be collecting and how.

data on the volume of products


recycled, repairs completed and resale
The laws that apply to your business will figures. Collecting this information will
depend on the regions you manufacture help companies understand the impact
and sell in, the requirements of third-party of circularity initiatives, and narrow their
retailers you stock products with, and the focus to the most effective scheme. By
scale of your operations. For more gathering data on repairs, for example,
information and to hear from policy experts, companies can make informed design
read the next chapter called Navigating and production decisions for more
Legislation and Compliance Risksx durable products.+

>n Meet Sustainability Commitments

3 Decreasing emissions Companies


that have overall emission reduction
Many companies have made public ESG plans in line with science-based targets
commitments to reduce the environmental require a traceability solution to know
and human impact of their operations. To where the most impact is being made in
achieve these goals, a traceability solution their supply chain. Analysing data
is necessary. Some commitments includeU collected through a traceability system
is the only way to build an effective,
3 Moving to sustainable materials targeted emissions reduction strategy.

Companies that plan to increase the +


overall percentage of recycled, natural 3 Social impact Companies that are
or preferred materials in their product committed to respecting human rights
offering need to know who is supplying should ensure that they work with
their materials. If a company wants to facilities promoting fair and safe working
move from virgin to recycled polyester conditions. Analyzing data on social
or conventional to organic cotton, it practices and impact is key to achieve
needs proof that the materials are this.
indeed certified recycled or organic.

12
- Increase Business Efficiencies 

A traceability solution will provide you withN

There is a strong business case for i Quick access to data You can collect

collecting, analyzing and acting on primary all data points in one unified traceability

data. With primary data, you can have real system with easy access to information

time visibility of material movement across about your supply chain and products.

the supply chain, and can leverage this When all your data is structured in a

information to achieve business single location, activities like sharing

efficiencies.

data on product credentials (with

evidence) for retail partners, country of

A traceability solution gives you access to origin data for customs agents and

data that can not only improve your Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR)

understanding of the environmental and reporting on supply chain compliance is

social impact of your business, but also streamlined and simplified.]

enables you to weed out inefficiencies,

unwanted costs and waste. It paves the i Audits Companies are able to easily

way for a more dynamic, efficient and track the behaviour of their suppliers for

strategic business.
auditing purposes when data is

recorded in an accessible format. A

traceability solution allows you to see in

real-time the movement of goods

through their supply chains and keep on

top of compliance. This also means

any changes that happen to your

products in the production phase can be

identified and recordede

i The ability to optimize your supply

chain Companies that gather data and

intelligence around their supply chains

can react to external events with greater

agility. By understanding suppliers in

more detail, like what they provide, their

supply chain network, and how they

operate, companies can identify

alternative supply chains or weed out

inefficiencies based on the business

requirements. This can reduce costs,

time to market, and overproduction. 

13
Key Considerations

3 Balancing the short- and long-term


Consider the value of short-term and
There are a few key aspects to defining long-term goals. Starting with imminent
your needs when choosing a traceability laws will help tackle your immediate
solution provider. These considerations can risks, but don’t disregard the inevitable
help you win the support of key decision- rise of more robust, wide-sweeping
makers in your business by identifying the legislation around the world. To stay on
business value of traceability top of incoming laws and future-proof
your business, it will pay off to be
3 Risk vs. reward Consider the upfront ambitious, committed, and forward-
cost vs potential losses for thinking.
noncompliance or disintegration of
consumer trust. Buying a traceability
solution requires financial investment in
systems and teams, but the
inconvenience, reputational risk, cost
and delays caused by failing to comply
with laws like the UFLPA or being sued
by disgruntled customers are far
greater.
3 The value of primary data Whether
you want to do an LCA, comply with
regulations or improve your social
impact, just having an overview of your
supply chain is not enough. You need to
know exactly what goes on in it. Having
a robust, real-time view of the flow of
materials and goods enables you to
proactively optimize your operations
while building a resilient and fair supply
chain. Primary data can help you make
decisions that will transform your
business for the better.

In the Toolkit:

You'll find the Outline of Traceability


template to help you define your
vision, objectives, key milestones
and KPIs, as well as how to calculate
ROI based on your key focus areas.
14
THREE SECRETS TO SUCCESS
1.
Involve key stakeholders early on: ensure you capture all
potential needs and understand the interdependencies of
different goals before you start prioritizing them. Consider how
your traceability needs align with the wider business goals.

2.
Be crystal clear: define the value
and outcome you want to achieve
and set specific targets against
these. This makes it easier to align
internally, measure progress and
perform corrective actions.

3.
Get started: given the nascent nature of traceability, as well as the current and
upcoming laws governing this space, it will be impossible to get everything right
from the beginning. The key is to get started with the highest short-term priority,
still keeping long-term objectives in mind, and correcting your course as you
move forward.

15
Case Study:

How Tapestry Defined its Goals

It wasn’t about perfection; it was about

Sherry Fazal
having a general idea of our business
Sr Manager, Global ESG
needs, our customer expectations and the
& Sustainability
ESG story we want to tell about our
Solutions at Tapestry
company.


Tapestry’s strategic pillars for ESG are Our it was about having a general idea of our

People, Our Community and Our Planet. business needs, our customer expectations

Our work on sustainability is robust and our and the ESG story we want to tell about our

goals are significant: one of our most company. Our first step was to create a

critical goals is to achieve 95% traceability high-level roadmap that was going to guide

and mapping of raw materials to ensure a us as we built the systems but could be

transparent and responsible supply chain flexible when we needed to pivot or adjust.

by 2025. When we initially set the goal, it FY21 was a foundational year.

was about working backwards from there

— we knew that if we needed to trace our We knew the power of small wins, so we

materials, we needed to map our supply started with those and built on the

chain. 

momentum, which gave us the confidence

to tackle bigger challenges. For example,

One key learning was that it’s not just one of our commitments is to ensure 90%

about connecting tier one suppliers, tier two of leather is sourced from Gold and Silver-

suppliers and beyond, but having rated tanneries. We partnered with

substantial data sets and ensuring data reputable leather suppliers to ensure

integrity. We focused on cleansing the data tanneries were up to standard.

in our supply chain before we even tried to

connect the people. A company’s If they weren't, we wanted to help get them

traceability reporting is only as good as the there, not walk away from the vendor.

accuracy of its data.

That’s a really important part of Tapestry’s

work - we recognize we’re all on a journey

Early 2020 was the start of us having an together and it’s about making real

integrated systems architecture to support sustainable progress.

Tapestry’s sustainability journey. We knew

we needed systems and had to start

somewhere. It wasn’t about perfection;

16
NAVIGATING LEGISLATION
AND COMPLIANCE RISKS

OUTCOME OF THIS CHAPTER

This chapter will draw a bigger picture of


the legislative landscape today and in the
future, with the help of experts Kit Conklin
from Kharon, and Baptiste Carriere-Pradal
from Policy Hub. This chapter will help
you understand the key categories of
laws affecting apparel and footwear and
the data needed to comply with each of
these. Equipped with this knowledge, you
can align your broader organization,
which is covered in the next chapter.

17
NAVIGATE LEGISLATION AND COMPLIANCE RISKS

There are three main categories of environmental or social claims made with
legislation to be aware of and develop your reliable and relevant evidence.
data collection strategy around: due Requirements can range from top-line data
diligence, claims & labeling and to highly granular information around the
sustainability reporting. Not all regulations product life-cycle, such as environmental
fit neatly into one bucket. Some, like the scoring, circularity, traceability, and other
EU Ecodesign for Sustainable Products sustainability information.

Regulation Proposal, will cover aspects


from several categories.  

An example is the French Anti-Waste for a


Circular Economy Law (AGEC), which
Due diligence includes laws that require relates to the claims and labeling of
companies to identify and mitigate materials on consumer-facing labels.
environmental and/or social risks along AGEC requires companies to make

their supply chain. Laws on forced labor weight-based declarations of recycled


require data on a product shipment level to material content and disclose the
prove that goods have no forced labor in traceability of main materials by showing
any part of their supply chain, requiring the countries of origin. 

collection of country-of-origin
documentation. Deforestation regulations Sustainability Reporting laws standardize
can require specific locations of individual requirements for reporting, such as how to
farms.  

report on targets and progress towards


Scope 1, 2, and 3 emissions reduction,
Due diligence laws will also help you both in absolute and relative terms, as well
achieve social impact goals, such as as for the total company and per product.

implementing living wages or safer working


conditions. A code of conduct is not robust As many laws are still at the proposal
enough to achieve social impact goals. To stage, the exact requirements are not yet
achieve living wages in their supply chains, defined. Leading companies have already
companies must have visibility of suppliers, started collecting and analyzing granular
access to information about the wages of data per shipment, so they are ready when
their employees, and a collaborative laws come into force. Beyond what is
relationship with factories to implement required by compliance, companies can
wage increases.

also use this data to get a granular


understanding of their supply chain to
Claims and Labeling laws require accelerate positive social, environmental
companies to substantiate any and business impact.
18
Gathering Data for

Compliance

By now, fashion companies are well aware

that they need data to comply with

regulations. But identifying what data they

need to gather is the most important piece

in the puzzle.

In the table on the next page, we have

called out the data requirements for six

major laws facing fashion businesses.

Having the data to hand will be central for

compliance with other laws and

regulations, as many have overlapping

data requirements.  

In the following chapters we’ll speak to two

industry experts, Kit Conklin from Kharon

and Baptiste Carriere-Pradal from Policy

Hub and 2BPolicy on how these laws are

impacting fashion businesses across the

world.

For a more extensive view on laws &

regulations, please visit the

TrusTrace Knowledge Hub. 

19
Category Example laws Data needed

Due Diligence US: The Uyghur Forced Labor Per purchase order and shipment:
Prevention Act (UFLPA)

Supply chain map, country of origin


of all suppliers, payment, production
EU: Ban on Forced Labor and transportation documentation.

Claims and EU: Corporate Sustainability Same as above including supply


Labeling Due Diligence Directive chain information, due diligence
Proposal (CSDDD) policies and measures to effectively
monitor, manage and mitigate risks,
to publish annual due diligence
strategies and statements.

FR: The French Anti-Waste for Geographical traceability of the 3


a Circular Economy Law major manufacturing steps
(AGEC) (weaving, dyeing, assembly/
finishing).

Amount of recycled material, and


recyclability of the product.

The presence of hazardous


chemicals, and microfibers if >50%.

Sustainability EU: Corporate Sustainability Environmental and social impact of


Reporting Reporting Directive Proposal the supply chain, including Scope 3
(CSRDP) emissions and wages

US: SEC Proposal for Climate- Same as the EU CSRDP as well as


Related Disclosure Rules carbon emissions

Cross- EU: Ecodesign for Sustainable Performance requirements on


category Products (ESPR) - Including durability, reparability, circularity,
Digital Product Passport (DPP). waste, pollution, carbon footprint,
harmful substances, destruction of
unsold goods, and more.

The DPP requires relevant


information about the full lifecycle of
the product, for easy consumer
access to decentralized information.

20
Interview:

The Impact and Future of the UFLPA


Kit Conklin
Traceability takes time to do right, and it
Vice President of takes time to do it well, so brands should
Kharon be thinking about this before laws are
enforced.

As of June 2023, the Uyghur Forced Labor



Conklin shares his knowledge on the best-
Protection Act (UFLPA) has been in effect practice approach to complying with the
for a year. This rollout of this unique, UFLPA, how it compares to similar laws
precedent-setting law has put the fashion internationally, how the law will evolve in
industry on notice: take the rising tide of the coming year, and whether it is
regulation seriously or face financial and effectively eradicating forced labor from
reputational risks. The UFLPA has helped fashion’s supply chains. 

to catalyze the adoption of traceability


solutions for compliance, but its impact on TrusTrace:

global trade and geopolitical relations is far Kit, can you tell us a little about the
more significant. 

impact that the UFLPA has had since it


came into effect

To understand exactly how the UFLPA has in June 2022?

and will continue to impact apparel and


other imports into the United States, we Kit Conklin:

sought the expertize of Kit Conklin, Senior The UFLPA took a lot of the sustainability
Fellow at the Atlantic Council and Vice world by surprise because it’s the most
President at the research and data complex piece of legislation that has ever
analytics firm, Kharon. 

been passed globally targeting this type of


issue. We have seen a huge uptick in the
Conklin helps lead global business number of shipments that have been
development and advises clients on the detained by CBP via their new UFLPA
use of data to augment and scale authorities — the U.S. Customs and Border
sustainability, traceability, and geopolitical Protection (CBP) has detained hundreds of
risk management programs. He has apparel shipments so far.
worked on China issues for over 15 years
and has testified in front of Congress on For an extended version of this interview,
the UFLPA.

visit the TrusTrace Knowledge Hub.

21
The CBP explicitly stated that cotton would compliance. For example, if cotton
be prioritized for enforcement, but what makes up 60% of your shipment, you
we’re starting to see now is other would prioritize tracing this supply
commodities being detained as well. This chain. But if materials that make up a
includes things like polyester, leather small percentage of your shipment are
products, and a broader expansion of also at risk of detainment under the
detentions targeting goods made with UFLPA, does this advice still ring true?

forced labor outside of Xinjiang.

I think the risk-based approach to UFLPA


Some in the industry have continued to due diligence is an appropriate response
believe that the UFLPA only focuses on by the industry. You have to start
Xinjiang cotton, but the law is infinitely somewhere, so starting with your high-risk
more complex and broad. It allows the commodities makes sense. Cotton, over
authorities to target shipments across the last three or four years, has been
every industry and, sometimes, prioritized for enforcement, but for the last
enforcement has nothing to do with the year, we’ve seen thousands of other
inputs themselves but rather the shipments being detained for purposes that
companies involved with the manufacturing have nothing to do with cotton. You might
process.

have learnt to crawl with cotton, but now


you have to figure out how to walk and then
I recently had a conversation with a chief run with all your other materials. 

sustainability officer for one of the world’s


largest brands and he raised an interesting It’s a mindset shift from an enforcement
point that I don’t think many in the industry perspective. There is no other law in the
are thinking about: commodities that aren’t U.S. that says you’re guilty as an importer
fabrics. Things like metals in shoes, for until you can prove your innocence. The
example. A lot of times the due diligence on rebuttable presumption [a legal principle
those smaller commodities may not be the that presumes guilt until innocence can be
same as the traceability work that’s being proven] sends a clear signal to the industry
done for cotton. If you have inputs in your that proactive due diligence is now a legal
shoes that are metals made with forced requirement. 

labor, the CBP has the authority to detain


that product, even if everything else in the Forced labor legislation is emerging in
shoe may not be made in Xinjiang.

the UK, Europe and beyond, including


The Dutch Child Labour Due Diligence
Companies are often told to conduct Act, the UK’s Import of Products of
due diligence on the highest volume Forced Labour from Xinjiang
material as a starting point for (Prohibition) Bill, and the European
Parliament’s

22
Proposal For a Ban on Goods Made Many fashion businesses have been
Using Forced Labour. How do they slow to react to and prepare for
compare to the UFLPA and does legislation, despite often getting a few
compliance with one forced labor law years of advance notice. What impact
mean your business is compliant has the rollout of the UFLPA had on
globally?

those businesses? Would you


recommend a different approach? 

The rebuttable presumption is a very


unique part of the U.S. regulatory regime. When the UFLPA was signed into law in
The reason it was added was because December 2021, a lot of brands took a
many in Congress believed it was the only wait-and-see approach to see what the
way that industry would comply with the regulators would do. [In June 2022], the
law to the fullest extent. If you look at the regulators came out at 100 miles an hour
other laws that have passed or have been and started enforcement rapidly from day
proposed for forced labor bans, a one. As a result, the businesses that took
rebuttable presumption is not included. 

that approach were caught off guard and


had their goods detained at the border.
From a regulatory and compliance They went through very long, expensive
perspective, brands need to comply with applicability reviews to see if those goods
the UFLPA if they have U.S. business. But could be released. There was a huge
the UFLPA is so strenuous that it will help amount of risk that they would be caught
enable them to comply with European laws flat-footed once enforcement began. 

and, if the UK strengthens its modern


slavery legislation, it would help with It boils down to how quickly companies
compliance with that too. The same goes recognize and appreciate that traceability
for Canada, Mexico and other jurisdictions. 

can’t be achieved by flipping a switch.


Implementing traceability and supply chain
However, it’s not the other way around. If mapping takes time. It takes months to find
you’re a European or UK brand and you’re that information and get it from your
concerned about the proposed EU bans, suppliers and their suppliers, all the way
complying with those doesn’t mean you’re down the chain.

in compliance with the UFLPA.

So if you wait until the law is being


The way the UFLPA works, if you collect enforced, you’re already months behind.
the data, do the mapping and implement You risk regulatory action and being called
traceability, you’re going to have the out publicly by NGOs, political leaders, or
majority of the regulatory documents that the media, which would pose a significant
you need to comply with the proposed reputational risk.

forced labor bans around the world. 

23
Interview: Anticipating and Preparing for
Incoming Laws

Baptiste
It’s complicated, yes. But it’s manageable.
Carriere-Pradal
You need to be able to understand the
Chair of Policy Hub and complexity of the issue at hand to be able
co-founder of 2BPolicy to implement a proper solution.

The fashion industry is facing a wave of



“While talking to major brands, many of
legislation. In the next five years, ambitious them are members of tens or hundreds of
lawmakers in the EU, U.S. and UK will initiatives focusing on forced labor, child
require fashion companies to track, labor, living wages, health and safety,
measure and report on a wide range of carbon, water, ocean waste plastics, you
social and environmental issues, from name it,” says Carriere-Pradal.

forced labor to deforestation and beyond. 

“This is an industry that has so many


Despite this, few businesses are ready to challenges to tackle with so few means.
take the necessary steps towards The reality is however that with the
compliance, says Baptiste Carriere-Pradal, available means and time, we won’t be
chair of Policy Hub, an organization that able to solve everything in the next 5 to 10
represents the apparel and footwear years. We need to prioritize, then brands
industry to propose policies around should have a phased approach to data
sustainability and circularity.

collection depending on identified risks and


legislation.” 

“Too many brands wait until the ink is dry


on regulations before they do anything, and So where should brands focus their
that’s where the problem lies,” he says. attention? Carriere-Pradal says there are
“Very few brands want to anticipate four requirements that brands should be
regulations, but we can already anticipate prioritizing. “The first element brands will
the majority of the data points that they have to disclose is their scope 3
need to capture.” 

emissions,” he says. “To have a fair


approximation of this, you need to know
Some industries face one major challenge your materials mix and the country of origin
— the aviation industry is primarily of this raw material.” Next are requirements
concerned with decarbonization, for for deforestation and forced labor.
example — but fashion faces a variety of
issues.
24
“For both of these, the primary information “But they tend to be systematically
required is the exact origin of a good. In the underfunded, under-resourced, and the
case of deforestation, you need to know staff are stretched,” says Carriere-Pradal.
the origin of the hides you import. Then, “When you have one person leading
you need to be able to trace the origin of all ‘decarbonization’ for a full company, with a
your risky raw materials given the forced limited budget, what is exactly the expected
labor regulations.”  

output?”

While some of these requirements won’t be Carriere-Pradal’s final message for the
implemented for a few years, Carriere- industry is a word of warning: “You are
Pradal says that brands should start likely to overspend millions on fast tracked
collecting a wide range of information from solutions if you don’t anticipate the impact
suppliers now to anticipate future of the data that will go public on your
regulations. “It’s easier to gather a lot of shareholders, customers, and
primary data and then you can improve stakeholders.”

over time,” he says. “The issue here is that


if you’re too selective, you might have blind “Companies need to anticipate upcoming
spots.”

legislation, work with their peers, identify


adequate solution providers, and develop a
Undoubtedly, partnering with a traceability compliance road map to allow a smooth
solution provider is the only way to gather transition from a unregulated sustainability
and sort the scale of data needed to meet strategy to a fully regulated one.”

these requirements. “A brand wouldn’t have


the capacity to do this alone because it
requires a huge amount of effort. You need
to have a traceability solution to do this
work,” says Carriere-Pradal. “It’s
complicated, yes. But it’s manageable. You
need to be able to understand the
complexity of the issue at hand to be able
to implement a proper solution.”  

He believes that brands must invest heavily


in building robust sustainability teams
staffed with experts who have the budget
and support from key stakeholders to make
rapid progress. “In the past and still today,
sustainability teams are a ‘nice to have’ for
many brands.

25
THREE SECRETS TO SUCCESS
1.
Map out data requirements for these
laws, as well as the data you already
have available in high quality. This will
help you discover gaps you need to fill,
or existing data you need to improve.

2.
Analyze the regulatory
landscape with current and
incoming laws versus your risk
profile, to understand which laws
to prioritize first.

3.
Set up a roadmap with prioritized laws, when they come into
force and the data requirements connected to them for your
business, so you have a clear overview of the data you need
to collect by when to ensure compliance.

26
ENSURING YOUR
ORGANIZATION IS ALIGNED
AND READY

OUTCOME OF THIS CHAPTER

This chapter will help you to recognize


the role of internal and external
stakeholders in achieving your
traceability goals. You will hear from
Matthew Xu from ASICS and Sherry
Fazal from Tapestry, who share their
journey to organizational alignment.

27
ENSURING YOUR ORGANIZATION IS
ALIGNED AND READY

The success of your traceability initiative What is External Alignmenta


starts long before the right solution provider  Ensuring suppliers understand why and
has been chosen. After you have defined how a traceability solution is being
your business and sustainability needs, the adopteo
next step is to ensure internal and external  Ensuring suppliers understand the
alignment and readiness to take on a incentives for compliance and risks or
traceability solution. 

penalties for non-compliancZ


 Alignment with service providers —
Without buy-in, support and collaboration their data needs to feed into your
from your key stakeholders within your traceability platform so it’s essential that
organization and your supply chain, it different systems are able to talk to one
would be impossible to create a cohesive anothem
and unified strategy. We will elaborate on  Leveraging your supplier relationships to
the points below in the next chapter: How partner with them on this program
to Make Your Implementation Successful. 

What is Internal Alignment?<


 Putting together your cross-functional
traceability team<
 Defining a clear responsibility
assignment matrix for internal teams
For example
 The IT team is responsible for data
integrations<
 The local buying office is
responsible for supplier alignment<
 Setting a budget<
 Creating a realistic timeline of priorities
and milestoneG
 Identifying and communicating with key
stakeholders from relevant teams,
including the C-suite

28
Assess Your Readiness Some of the tasks that the supplier
engagement team will have to perform
The traceability solution you choose will include:

depend on your organizational readiness `


and maturity. Do you have the in-house B Engaging your community of suppliers
personnel needed to work with a and educating them on the importance
traceability solution provider? Where is of their cooperatioK
your data held and how accessible is it? Do B Outline the vision for sustainability
you have contact with your suppliers? beyond compliance by setting out your
Readiness can be defined in three environmental values and goalT
aspects: 

B Training suppliers to upload information


to your chosen traceability platforV
Data Readiness
B Regular monitoring to ensure supplier
To work with any traceability solution, complianch
companies need a solid foundation of B Responding to issues and queries from
master data — information on products, suppliers to ensure a smooth uptake

suppliers and purchase orders — to ensure


these entities are referred to in a consistent Across the world, garment suppliers
way across systems. The quality, operate at the control of brands and are
granularity and location of your data all often treated as disposable. But brands
matter here. 

beware: a traceability program won’t


succeed without the collaboration and
To assess your data readiness, identify the cooperation of your suppliers. Developing
systems currently holding your brand’s data strong relationships built on mutual respect
and the availability of that data, as this will is crucial. 

have to align with the traceability solution’s


data structure. This task will require a Suppliers should be supported and
dedicated effort by your IT team to motivated to share their data and help you
understand data mapping and establish achieve your traceability goals. Companies
integrations that can push your master data can encourage supplier engagement by
into the traceability system. 

offering incentives such as guaranteeing


them more business, paying a premium for
Supplier Engagement
orders, connecting them to sustainable
At the core of any traceability program is supply chain financing and reducing
the relationships you have with your payment terms. 

suppliers. To manage the constant


communication and collaboration with
suppliers, brands must factor in sufficient
bandwidth, personnel and organizational
structure.

29
This will be driven by two critical factors:
Sourcing Models

your sourcing model and the quality and


maturity of your master data. 

How and where you start your traceability


journey will determine the success of your
These tables sets out three of the most
implementation. Working with your
common sourcing models, the
traceability solution provider, analyze the
requirements for internal readiness and
overall objectives to create a plan for your
realistic goals for the short-term:
program launch.

Sourcing Model Cut Make Trim

Typical Features Brand owns the design & sourcing and controls production

Definite visibility up to T2 suppliers, with the exception of small


components like threads 

Nearly full knowledge (90%+) of the bill of materials used in the


finished product.

More commonly used by high-end and luxury brands

Internal Ensure sourcing partners have needed bandwidth to interact


Readiness with CMT and T2 suppliers

Needed
Ensure IT team bandwidth for enabling integrations (data in &
data out)

Ensure business team bandwidth to define requirements from


various stakeholders

Short-Term Identify T3 & T4 suppliers

Goals
Establish COC from yarn (or T3 stage) to finished goods

30
Sourcing Model Full Package Program with Garment Supplier

Brands own the design and work with T1 suppliers

Typical Features

Brand purchases at fixed cost from the garment manufacturer, but may also

nominate suppliers

Brand has less responsibility & risk, but also less control and data

Cost per garment higher than CMT

Ensuring sourcing partners have bandwidth to interact with T1 & T2 suppliers

Internal

Readiness Establish change management team to work through different phases of

Needed program

Team to engage with T1 as workload will be higher for T1 in coordinating all/

most of the data

Ensuring IT teams bandwidth for ensuring integrations (data in & data out)

Map lower tier suppliers beyond T1

Short-Term

Goals Establish the BOM for all products

Establish COC from fabric stage to finished goods

Sourcing Model Full Package Program with Agents

Brand outsources the design, sourcing and production to external agents

Typical Features

Brand may use this as their core business model or for specific product

categories

More commonly used by fast and ultra-fast fashion brands

Brand has less responsibility and risk regarding delivery and quality, but also

less control and data

Internal Ensuring sourcing partners have needed bandwidth to interact with agents  

Readiness Change management team to work through different phases of program . This

Needed fundamentally changes the current business model, as in current setup

agents take all the risk and workload .We expect this to change with

increased transparency in the supply chai n

Ensuring IT teams bandwidth for ensuring integrations (data in & data out)

Map the supply chains through agents

Short-Term

Goals Establish the BOM for all products

3 1
Key Considerations

Implementing a traceability strategy without


the support and alignment of all your key
stakeholders is like building a house
without a blueprint — the result is unlikely
to resemble your vision or fit your needs.

The right solution for your business will


emerge from discussions with internal and
external stakeholders, taking into
consideration the wider business goals, as
well as your company’s sourcing model
and data maturity. Keep in mind: this
process could take months, but significant
investment decisions shouldn’t be rushed.

After the case studies in the next chapter,


you’ll discover the full spectrum of
sustainability solutions on the market to
help turn this plan into action.

32
THREE SECRETS TO SUCCESS
1.
Involve and align everyone across functions, from IT and
sourcing to sustainability, legal and marketing. Ensure all
stakeholders are on board and understand their role in this
transformation.

2.
Collaborate with suppliers. Bring them along for the journey
and consider them equal partners in this transformation. Build
strong relationships built on mutual respect to ensure a
successful program rollout.

3.
Prioritize based on risks and urgent
needs. You can’t solve every problem
at once, so create a realistic timeline to
achieve tangible goals.

33
Case Study: Launching the ASICS

Traceability Transformation

The ASICS traceability initiative is a


Matthew Xu
corporate transformation from a linear to a
CSR and Sustainability
circular business model. I believe it is
Lead at ASICS
crucial to approach this like any other

transformation project.


When people think about traceability, many When we made the decision to collaborate

brands are still struggling to establish a with TrusTrace, we conducted brand

comprehensive process to address it. In my meetings to introduce their platform to the

view, this represents a transformative ASICS team. We emphasized the unique

endeavour. Drawing on my years of value TrusTrace offered compared to other

experience in corporate transformations, I solution providers we had considered.

believe it is crucial to approach this like any TrusTrace made it easy for me by demo-

other transformation project.

ing the platform and assisting in articulating

our plan.

The ASICS traceability initiative is a

corporate transformation from a linear to a The project charter encompasses

circular business model. Traceability plays opportunities, goals and objectives related

a vital role in achieving transparency — not to responsible sourcing and product

only to share our story but also to integrity. It also outlines specific

exchange best practices and foster deliverables. In the short term, these

collaboration in addressing challenges. 

deliverables will help us address immediate

concerns and risks while achieving

To effectively lead such a transformation, operational excellence and efficiency.

discipline is paramount. With the Whenever the project swings off track, the

assistance of TrusTrace, we developed a charter serves as a compass to realign

robust project charter — a guiding everyone.

document that ensures our team

understands the project’s essential We had three main deliverables:

aspects, success indicators, and developing and implementing the

expectations, thus keeping everyone traceability system, ensuring its adoption

focused. Putting everything in black and by our employees and suppliers, and

white on paper facilitates understanding integrating it with our existing supply chain

throughout the organization. management systems.

34
This integration aims to not only drive
efficiency but to enhance business
resilience. 

From a strategic standpoint, we closely


monitored upcoming laws that would affect
us. For instance, the UFLPA highlighted
cotton as the primary material subject to
mandatory traceability. Accordingly, we
determined the highest-volume products
and identified the appropriate traceability
tiers.  

By creating a project charter, you can help


your colleagues comprehend the various
project phases and plans to pave the path
for implementation. Articulating this to the
management team instills confidence.

The initial step involves running diagnostics


to understand the current challenges and
the urgency for change. Then, we must
guide people in envisioning the future —
how the transformation will benefit the
company — not just in terms of traceability
and sustainability but also for the business
itself to drive resilience.

It’s important to connect the project vision


to the broader company’s mission, as it
resonates with those focused on business
objectives.

For ASICS, our commitment to a better


world revolves around enabling everyone
to live healthy lives through mental and
physical activity. This mission is the driving
force behind our Mission 2030 initiative,
which seeks to establish a holistic
framework of responsible sourcing and
product integrity.
35
Case Study: How Tapestry Ensured
Organizational Readiness
Sherry Fazal
We believe that being partners, rather than
Sr Manager,

Global ESG & dictating our demands, is key to how we


Sustainability Solutions are seen by the suppliers in our value chain
at Tapestry

The commitment to this journey was driven



We believe that being partners, rather than
from the top down; our leadership was dictating our demands, is key to how we
behind us from day one. A full ESG/ are seen by the suppliers in our value
Traceability team was not in place at that chain. We believe this will drive their
point, but the dedication and drive to move willingness to participate.

the needle forward were strong. 

The launch of Coachtopia, our new sub-


We already had a master data hub for brand focused on circularity, was a great
Product Lifecycle Management, Materials opportunity to get our new vendors on
Management and Enterprise Resource board from day one with the ground rules
Planning data in a centralized repository. for how we wanted to map Coachtopia’s
The next step was understanding how to traceability journey.
slice and dice the different pieces of data to
get accurate ESG/Traceability reporting.

Our supply chain analytics team had


already been working on end-to-end
visibility of our supply chain, using
dashboards and exception reporting, which
helped enable us to make better decisions.

It was our chief supply chain officer’s job to


communicate our journey, including what
we wanted to accomplish, explain what we
need from our suppliers, and find out what
they need from us.

36
Find the Right Solution

for Your Needs

OUTCOME OF THIS CHAPTER

There is no shortage of technology


solutions on the market today. In this
chapter, Fashion For Good Innovation
Analyst James Crowley breaks down the
types of technology solutions on the market
and shares key innovators in each category
to shine a light on the companies driving the
industry forward.
37
Find the Right Solution for Your Needs

by Fashion For Good


Fashion companies should consider these
James Crowley

Innovation Analyst at
innovations as part of a portfolio of partners
Fashion for Good that work together, sharing information to
achieve their goals.

At Fashion For Good (FFG), we have seen



All supply chain stakeholders involved in
a rapid rise in innovation catering to the reducing the negative impacts of sourcing
growing demand for traceability and decisions and improving the integrity and
sustainability solutions in recent years. credibility of supply chain data need to
Traceability innovation can enable understand that traceability involves a
improved inventory management, impact constant pulse of oversight and
calculation and scope 3 data integrity. It governance.

can also assist brands and retailers to meet


the disclosure requirements of incoming In a sense, the term ‘traceability
supply chain due diligence policy.
implementation’ should be swapped for
This innovation consists mostly of Software ‘traceability maintenance’ once digital or
as a Service (SaaS) digital platforms that physical traceability service providers have
can map, track, and help verify information been chosen to meet sustainability
on suppliers, materials, impact, and ESG objectives. 

credentials associated with the life-cycle of


products sourced.

Read on for a deep dive into transparency


and traceability innovation in the textile and
There is no singular traceability solution footwear industry.

that meets all of a user's business and


ESG needs. Fashion companies should
consider the below innovations as part of a
portfolio of partners that work together,
sharing information to achieve their goals.

Different innovations target different ESG


and business use cases.

38
The Traceability Key innovators:

TrusTrace

Innovation Textile Genesis

Retraced

Landscape
Sourcemap

Altana

Key Use Cases-


3 Enabling the visibility and digitization of
Supply Chain Traceability product, supplier, environmental, and
Platforms
social data points needed for credible
 
policy disclosure.
Supply chain traceability platforms are 3 Providing data integrity and system
blockchain or cloud-based solutions that validation for material and product
provide supply chain mapping & certification (such as Textile Exchange's
visualization tools and perform material & standards).

product traceability.

Impact Trackers

They are used to consolidate and verify the


chain of custody documentation Impact trackers are digital solutions that
(transactional certificates, scope take primary data from suppliers to
certificates and associated sustainability measure several indicators, including
standards), perform supply chain mapping, carbon emissions, water and energy
facility profiling, batch and product consumption, land use and biodiversity
traceability, and allow API integration with impact. This allows companies to have
brands/suppliers' internal systems.

visibility and oversight over their impact


hotspots. From here, they can identify
These solutions have a wide scope of the areas to reduce emissions and prioritize
supply chain and have the capacity to actions that will reduce their overall carbon
cover scope 3 (or Tier 1 to 4). footprint. 

For supply chain traceability platforms, a Impact trackers serve as calculating tools
key distinction is between fiber forward and to measure a company's indirect
garment backward approaches.
environmental impact from suppliers,
Service providers with fiber forward customers, and transportation. These
capabilities allow for real-time and secure emissions are typically more difficult to
digital identities to be created in parallel to measure and manage than a company's
the commodity flow. Garment backward direct emissions (Scope 1 and Scope 2),
approaches follow a more traditional but they can represent a significant portion
approach, mapping the supply chain from of a company's overall carbon footprint.
the finished garment backwards.
39
Key innovators:
waste recycling, helping to guide the
Made2Flow
transition of waste to resources in the
Vaayu
fashion industry.

Glimpact

PEFtrust

Key Use Cases"


Consumer Engagement

7 Meeting the requirements of the


Mobile applications that perform
Product Environmental Footprint (PEF),
sustainability ratings on fashion brands for
part of the Single Market for Green
consumer visibility. They use rating
Products Initiative launched by the E&
systems that aggregate standards,
7 Measuring and reporting on internal
certifications and publicly available data
sourcing decisions and sustainability
into accessible scores. This promotes
commitments that have been
transparency across the fashion industry.
established within the company

Customers can use these applications to


stay informed on the ethical and
Circularity Platforms sustainable credentials of brands in order
to make conscious purchasing decisions. 

(Waste Mapping)

Key innovators:

Circularity platforms for waste mapping are


Good On You

blockchain and/or cloud-based digital


solutions. They focus on mapping textile
Key Use Cases"
waste supply for collection, segregation,
7 Consumer engagement with institutional
and recycling purposes. These digital
sustainability rating–
solutions provide data analytics into
7 Can potentially integrate with Digital
volumes, composition, and geo-locations of
Product Passports in the future, linking
waste flows. They enable clarity on waste
brand ratings to product impact analysis

availability and key institutional contacts


required to connect the supply to the
demand of textile waste.

Physical Tracer
Key innovators:

Reverse Resources

Technologies

Satma

Both additive and forensic tracer sub-


Recycle Re_fashion

categories are used to trace and


authenticate fibers and materials, as well
Key Use Cases:

as prove supply chain and geographic


Essential service providers to facilitate the
origins. Additive Tracers are physical
scale of both pre- and post-consumer
additives which are applied to the fibers
textile
and materials on the supply chain floor and
40
detected later to prove their origin. Forensic Social Innovation:

Tracers are technologies that analyze the

micro-particle and biochemical composition Reporting tools enable businesses to listen

of fibers and materials in order to prove and respond to workers and make

their origin. 

improvements in their working conditions

across their business and supply chain.

Key innovators:
This is usually done via a mobile phone

Oritain (Forensic Tracer)


app/call which allows for direct feedback

Haelixa (Additive Tracer)

from workers throughout the supply chain,

using surveys and mobile voice technology.

Key Use Cases:

Catalyzed by incoming corporate due Key innovators:

diligence legislation like the UFLPA, the &Wider

demand to integrate tracer technologies Ulula

into global fashion supply chains has risen. Labor Solutions (WOVO)

This allows companies to prove the

geographic and supply chain origin of Key Use CasesI

sourced fibers in line with the pressing F Compliance with the EU Human Rights

demand for physical verification alongside Due Diligence laws.i

the site and transactional verification. F Achieving internal sustainability and

social impact commitments

41
Fashion for Good’s

THREE SECRETS TO SUCCESS


1.
Create internal team positions focused on1
5 Policy advisory for supply chain legislation evolvement"
5 Traceability integrity for product certification, circularity, and policy data
disclosures (focus: environmental sustainability.
5 Transparency integrity for supplier mapping, working conditions, and HRDD
policy data disclosures (focus: social sustainability)

2.
Categorize your supply chain data into “obligatory data
need” or “non-obligatory data need”, based on business
priorities (e.g. meeting policy disclosure, verifying material
certification, impact tracking for climate disclosures)

3.
Choose traceability service
providers that align with your short-
term needs, as well as your long-term
goals. Look at this as a long-term
investment, and partnership.

42
Case Study: How Tapestry Found the
Right Solution for Its Needs
We knew that there wouldn’t be a single
Sherry Fazal

Sr Manager,
solution that met all our needs, but one that
Global ESG & would fulfill 80-90% of our ESG/Traceability
Sustainability Solutions needs would be a great place to start and
at Tapestry give us the answers we needed.

We knew we needed to find a solution that



Basically, every partner that would use the
fulfilled the needs of four core functions: system for ESG, CSR, or Traceability
General/Administrative/Reporting, Supplier reporting.

Capabilities, Product/Materials Tracking,


and Traceability. We had an extensive We set up a scoring system for each
Request for Proposals (RFP) process that vendor and worked with our cross-
took nearly a year, during which we looked functional partners to select one solution. It
at several systems.

was a laborious project, no doubt, but as a


company, we felt that the TrusTrace
We clearly defined our ideal system’s must- solution offered so much more than a
haves, should-haves, and nice-to-haves. traceability system.

We needed an integrated solution not only


with pre-built APIs and established Since we’ve started using TrusTrace, the
connections with platforms like the Textile platform has become our ESG tracking
Exchange and Worldly [formerly the Higg system and is becoming a part of our DNA.

Index], but one that was able to grow and


flex with us. 

We knew that there wouldn’t be a single


solution that met all our needs, but one that
would fulfill 80 to 90% of our ESG/
traceability needs would be a great place to
start and give us the answers we needed.

We identified who our key internal


stakeholders were, including the Vendor
Onboarding and Compliance team, the
Traceability team, and the Materials
Management team. 43
HOW TO MAKE YOUR
IMPLEMENTATION
SUCCESSFUL

OUTCOME OF THIS CHAPTER

This chapter will give you a solid


understanding of the tools needed for a
successful traceability solution rollout
and the key considerations for
reviewing, analyzing, and expanding
your initiative.
44
HOW TO MAKE YOUR IMPLEMENTATION
SUCCESSFUL
We have established that the successful Some key aspects of developing a
implementation of any traceability program implementation plan:f
starts with careful planning and a
structured approach to ensure the highest ^ Kick off the project with a proper
chances of success. Now, you’re preparing discovery phase. Since every program
to launch. But where to start?

is unique, having a workshop with all


stakeholders to align on the
Timeline and Planning

requirements and finalize the business


priorities is critical.f
Once you’ve picked a solution provider,
partner with them to establish a plan for ^ IT integrations often end up as bottle-
achieving your goals within a specific necks that delay implementation, due to
timeframe. A solution provider with a strong late involvement and limited bandwidth
understanding of the complexities of a of IT teams. Involving IT teams early,
program rollout will be crucial. In addition to and creating a clear systems integration
the platform capabilities, strong program plan, is critical to keep the project on
management support from the solution track.f
provider has proved to be a key ingredient
for successful rollouts. 

^ Take a phased approach. Having a


multi-phase project plan with different
Your solution provider should have a strong goals has usually proven to be
program governance structure, mature successful. In the initial phases, to get
tools for program tracking, a well some immediate success and
established communication matrix, and a momentum behind the program, you
proven support process. This establishes might choose to get started without
transparency of task ownership, risks, and proper IT integrations and focus on
project status, helping you to prioritize easy wins. Gradually, you can increase
actions and make progress. the levels of integration needed and
outcomes expected.

45
Prepare for Program Establishing a Team

Your business will need a core team


Rollout

responsible for launching and managing


the traceability solution. This team will:
Supplier Communication

Accessible and detailed communication Tu Be the super users of the solution:


with all your direct suppliers about the  Learn how to use the traceability
importance and value of their role in your solution
traceability program is critical for success.

 Perform all required activities on the


platform
At a minimum, brands should articulate  Work with the solution provider to
configure, test and fine-tune the
 Why are you launching this initiative system before rolling it out to
 How critical this initiative for your suppliers
busines
 How can it impact your business with >u Actively manage the program
the supplier rollout:
 How and why your suppliers play an  Discuss and align with solution
integral role in its succes provider on program rollout
 What the traceability system is being  Attend regular program review
used for and the details of its rollou meetings
 Plans and timelines for training and  Suggest improvements to the
suppor platform or rollout approach
 Information about the point of contact in  Work closely with your IT team to
your brand for supplier queries

facilitate data movement into the


traceability systeZ

hu Coordinate with various teams toj


 Train suppliers on how to use and
make the most of the traceability
solution
 Interface with business teams to
ensure data from the traceability
systems is consumed in the most
effective manner 

46
Platform Rollout

This should be a time-bound activity so that

any improvements can be made to your

Launching a traceability program requires program before it is implemented at scale.

participation from your wider supplier Below, you see an example of a program

community, so effective change roadmap.

management is essential. First, prioritize

your objectives within a timeline, so that

you can track your progress throughout the Delegating Responsibilities 

program execution.

There are certain tasks that will be

managed by your solution provider, by your

At TrusTrace, we recommend working with suppliers, and by your company.

a small subset of your supplier base that Understanding the scope of your

can act as a case study to understand responsibilities helps keep each

various aspects of the program rollout, stakeholder accountable for their actions.

before the large-scale program.

On the next page is an example of how a

Starting small enables you to engage project team can be set up to ensure

closely with your suppliers, monitor their clear roles and responsibilities for

compliance, uncover challenges, receive implementing traceability.

feedback, and correct course accordingly.

47
Project Team, Roles and Responsibilities

Project Owne/
5 Align on vision and objective$
5 Buy in with managemen
5 Align on resource availabilit'
5 Budget approval


Potential People: Head of Compliance/Head of


Business/Head of Sustainability

Project Management Officv Steering Committev


5 Manage program plan and ensure program is on-track^ 5 Program Governance^
5 Ensure cooperation from teams and vendor$ 5 Review progres$
5 Set goals and timeline$ 5 Make intervention$
5 Reporting and tracking

5 Decide on prioritie$
5 Sign off on acceptanc
Potential People: Sr. Leaders from different divisions.
 5 PNL ownership

Direct reporting to Project Owner/Steering Committee


Potential People: Head of Business Units, Head of Sourcing,

Head of IT, Legal/Compliance Teams

Project Manager•
5 Day to day program managemen
5 Track actions, items, deliverables and manage risk$
5 Communicate progress with key stakeholder$
5 Handle requirements and prioritizations from various stakeholders

Potential People: Sr. Program Manager who can handle change management
aspects

Project Lead 1
Project Lead 2
Project Lead 3
Project Lead 4
IT Team Lea
(Supplier Relationship 
 (External Comms (Legal and Complianceà (Key Account
Managementà Marketingà Managersà áÞ Integration$
áÞ U.S. Legal Team$ ½Þ Security
áÞ Representatives from áÞ End consumer comm$ ½Þ EU Legal Teams

áÞ KAM Customer Ê assessmen


local sourcing office$ ½Þ Corporate ½Þ KAM Customer 2

Þ User provisionin
½Þ Procurement team communications Þ Change
management

Coordinate with suppliers Work with key business áÞ Manage integrations áÞ Align on consumer áÞ Lead on the data
on customers and align on with existing IT communication plan: needed for regulation
áÞ Introducing the data needs system$ what data, frequency compliance^
traceability program – ½Þ Handle user of updates, view for ½Þ Prioritize relevant
importance and how provisioning, security end user$ regulation complianc
you plan to rollou assessments, ½Þ Align on Supplier Þ Finalize data sharing
½Þ Coordinate supplier architecture review$ disclosure plan: what format with regulators
trainin Þ Manage change tier of suppliers, what
Þ Ensure supplier management requests datO
complianc and implementations Þ Align on reporting
Þ Decide the initial list of requirements and
supplier$ data needs
Þ Share supplier
feedback to solution
provider for
improvements

48
Supplier Training

Effective participation from all


suppliers. Tracking their participation in
Together with the solution provider, your training sessions is critical for them to
traceability team will need to plan and set continue doing business with youV
up training sessions for suppliers. While the
solution provider can handle questions Create custom documentation that
directly related to their platform, you should provides precise instructions for your
facilitate these sessions, given your direct suppliers to follow. These can also be
relationship with suppliers. In these referred back to at a later dateV
sessions, you can answer questions and
communicate the objectives of the
Establish regular catch-ups for
program. To run effective training sessions, suppliers to share their challenges and
you should consider the following solutions with each other, facilitating
information sharing across your supply
Group your suppliers to be trained chaie
based on geography or value process
so that the information covered and Training in local language has proven
questions answered during these to be a crucial factor in addressing
sessions can be relevant to their role in some of the key challenges of platform
the supply chain. usage.

Share information about the


traceability solution provider ahead of Support Readiness

the training session so that suppliers


can come prepared. Internal teams and suppliers can’t be
expected to adopt a new traceability
Trainings after upgrades and new solution without support. Before you
releases. With the growing launch, understand the systems that your
requirements around traceability, the traceability solution partner has in place to
solution provider is expected to update help the users of their platform. The
the system for additional capabilities support system should typically have:
orto decrease the workload. Ensuring
the users are trained on what is new Easy to understand user manuals
and what is updated is critical. Support videos
Real-time chat support to address
Make your training interactive by unanswered questions
engaging suppliers with Q&As and Webinars around new updates or
quizzes. This will encourage discussion upgrades to ensure users don’t have to
and foster a deeper understanding of rely on support systems 

the platform.

49
A key factor for a low rate of adoption is
that users do not know who to ask for help
or they do not receive prompt support,
leading to delays. To ensure users can
access help when they need it, companies
should test the support functions and
clearly communicate the process of
requesting help to users. 

A typical service-level agreement with


suppliers should include a reasonable
response time and resolution time. Typical
response times should be in minutes to
ensure the users aren’t waiting for long
times and resolution times can be agreed
upon based on the priority of the issue
raised.

Key Considerations

In summary, there are five key aspects of


successfully implementing a traceability
solution that companies should take away
from this chapter. These include

 To establish clearly what you want to


achieve and define the timeline for
achieving your goal
 To involve all the necessary internal and
external stakeholders and establish the
responsibilities of each team
 To foster continuous communication
and collaboration with supplier
 To monitor the information collected to
see progress towards your goal
 To fine-tune processes based on
learnings and feedback from your
suppliers

50
THREE SECRETS TO SUCCESS
1.
Support and incentivize your suppliers to participate in your traceability
program rollout. Work with your solution provider to ensure that effective
communication and support systems are in place.

2.
Analyze and action the data collected through your
solution to achieve ESG, traceability and compliance
goals. A traceability program will fail to create meaningful
change without tangible goals and data-backed decision
making.

3.
Learning from, evolving and
investing more in your
sustainability transformation as
time goes on. Look at your program
rollout as the first phase of a bigger
initiative that will develop over the
coming years.

51
Case Study: How Tapestry Launched a
Successful Pilot Program
Sherry Fazal
The long-term vision is to have traceability
Sr Manager,
and transparency throughout the entire life
Global ESG & cycle of a product. How we get there won’t
Sustainability Solutions be linear — that’s the important part. We
at Tapestry
learn, we tweak, we pivot.

A core program team is key for any



Training is a key part and we learned
implementation. Ours was a lean team of quickly that context is key. We don’t give
five: one person from IT, one person from our suppliers the standard training guide.
materials, one person from traceability, one Instead, we take all the information that we
person from vendor onboarding, and one believe is important and narrow it down to a
person from our social audit and very precise session that has business
compliance team.

context in it. We lean into the narrative of


our story to encourage suppliers to use this
Those folks were at the head of the system.

program and their directives came from our


senior vice president of ESG. Their end-to- The long-term vision is to have traceability
end visibility was how we kept momentum and transparency throughout the entire life
and alignment throughout the project.

cycle of a product. How we get there won’t


be linear — that’s the important part. We
Luck was also part of our success: our tier learn, we tweak, we pivot.

one and two suppliers were already using a


few Tapestry systems, such as our Product Our work in ESG is not an add-on or
Lifecycle Management and Enterprise something that we ‘should’ have — it’s a
Resource Planning in our COC pilot, so key part of our business that is making us
getting them to use the new system wasn’t more resilient and forward-looking. ESG is
difficult.

part of our DNA as a company.

We built out storyboards to share our vision


of where we’re going and where we need
their help. We designed road maps that
clearly documented and trained on what
will be changing in their current process.

52
WHAT HAPPENS NEXT

OUTCOME OF THIS CHAPTER

In the coming chapter, discover what


it takes to create a better future for
fashion: standards, collective action,
and real-time data. Looking to other
industries for guidance, experts
share their insight and vision to
inspire and drive action in the
fashion industry. Discover what it
takes to create change from those
who have helped to successfully
transform their industries for the
better.

53
WHAT HAPPENS NEXT

Short-term action must be paired with long-


term vision for the fashion industry to take
Natalie Grillon

meaningful, unified strides in the right Executive Director of

direction.

Open Supply Hub

In the coming chapter, thought-leaders in


their respective industries explain what it
takes to create a better future for fashion: Stakeholders across supply chains are
standards, collective action, and real-time almost unanimous in the belief that
data sharing.

collaboration is essential if we're serious


about tackling the intractable challenges
Standards body GS1 demonstrates the society currently faces — issues like
value and power of a standardized deforestation, climate change and human
language for traceability.
rights abuses. 

We also take a look at the shipping At Open Supply Hub, we believe that
industry, which has proven that when equitable access to high quality, open data
individual companies come together and about global supply chains is the essential
work to collectively solve a problem, building block to enable systems change.
significant change can occur.
That means ensuring everyone has

access, whether they’re a small civil society
TrusTrace co-founder and CTO Madhava organization operating on the ground in
Venkatesh also shares his vision for the affected regions, or a major international
future of fashion where traceability is corporation. 

inherently built into the industry.

We know from our experience working in


First, a word from Natalie Grillon of Open this way that, when everyone is able to
Supply Hub on the value of collaboration. work freely with supply chain data,
opportunities rapidly open up to shift
industries onto a more sustainable path.


54
Interview: Standardizing Traceability
Industry-Wide
Karolin Catela

If you use standards to connect and align


Product Specialist at data in a specific way, it’s much easier to
Standards Body,
make smart decisions. You can have far
GS1 Sweden more control over how you use your data.

At TrusTrace, we have seen an uptick in



“If you type one or two digits wrong, you
traceability initiatives launched by fashion could be dealing with another product or
businesses, which is undoubtedly a step in batch number altogether,” says Catela. “If
the right direction.

you use standards to connect and align


data in a specific way, it’s much easier to
We believe, however, that establishing an make smart decisions. You can have far
industry standard for traceability is the best more control over how you use your data.”

way to see meaningful results. Not only do


standards increase the speed of GS1 knows a thing or two about setting
transformation, but case studies across standards. In 1973, GS1 introduced the
other industries indicate risk reduction and barcode, which revolutionized the way that
cost-savings for companies that embrace the world shopped. Establishing standards
standards.

creates a solid foundation that every


company within an industry can build upon.

“In the textile industry, companies all have


their own way of identifying things,” says Currently, individual companies are working
Karolin Catela, Product Specialist at GS1 in silos and failing to collaborate, share or
Sweden. “They’re exchanging similar learn from other players around them.
information, but they all do it in their own “There is always competition between
way between the four walls of their companies, so they don’t want to share
company.”

certain information with each other,” says


Catela. “That’s why GS1 is a neutral
When information needs to be exchanged partner. We have rules, we don’t discuss
between different systems, it’s often done prices or competitive information, but we
through PDFs, emails and Excel files, gather companies around a table to
where human error tends to impact results. discuss how to collaborate and move
forward together.” 

55
Regulation will be a driving force for the
standardization of fashion. “The Digital
Product Passport will force brands to
conform to a common way of exchanging
information,” says Catela. “Brands will need
to have 2D bar code or RFID. Imagine if
every company had a different way of
doing this — it will be very ineffective.”

Once the industry can align on common


goals, it will start achieving tangible results
sooner. “If companies are going to reach
their goals, they have to step up,” says
Catela. “Everyone is thinking about
circularity and sustainability, but there is
power in gathering all companies in a
sector. It’s a lot of work, but if they have a
common goal, things will move much
quicker.”

56
Interview: Taking Cues from the Maritime
Anti-Corruption Network
Cecilia

Müller Torbrand
I think we are a bit tired of taking part in
Chief Executive Officer various initiatives and not seeing the
at The Maritime
impact.
Anti-Corruption Network

If fashion needs a blueprint for the power of



the ground? How do you measure that?”
collective action on a global scale, it should Müller Torbrand says that the storytelling
look no further than to the Maritime Anti- element is a crucial driver of action.
Corruption Network (MACN), which was “Unless you hear stories of how your work
established by a small group of shipping impacts individuals, local markets, villages,
companies in 2011.

or whatever you want to achieve, then it


becomes toothless. I think we are a bit tired
Since then, it has evolved to close to 200 of taking part in various initiatives and not
companies around the world, all working seeing the impact.”

together to eliminate maritime corruption. It


does so by developing and sharing best When it comes to building out industry
practices, working with governments, civil initiatives that have the power to shift the
society and NGOs to find the root cause of needle, Müller Torbrand emphasizes the
corruption, and gathering, analyzing and importance of giving a seat at the table to
responding to primary data across the all stakeholders, from multinational
value chain. It provides an ideal case study companies to local SMEs. “When you have
for fashion, which, despite a number of the value chain of customers and suppliers
industry initiatives, has struggled to create sitting around the same table, you don’t
any tangible reduction across its biggest point fingers, you become very solution-
impact categories.

oriented,” she says. “You have to make


sure that everyone sits on the same terms.
So how has MACN improved issues faced A big company should be able to sit next to
by the shipping industry? “By focusing on the person who makes their products in
actions and impact,” says Cecilia Müller order to have a constructive dialogue.”

Torbrand, chief executive of MACN. “I think

we are all looking for that, regardless of So who should foot the bill for these
what area of sustainability you work in. initiatives? It’s a question that the fashion
What is the impact of these initiatives on industry has grappled with for years.
57
MACN’s founding vision ensures the “If you get 20 responses and they’re from
equality of all members, so its funding people who actually work in the
structure reflects this. “Everyone who environment you are trying to change, you
comes into an initiative like MACN has an know if you’re on the right track.” 

equal voice,” she explains. “For example,


just because you are a large company, Creating a positive impact doesn’t happen
doesn’t mean you have more rights to set overnight. Müller Torbrand says some of
all the rules. However, it is important that MACN’s initiatives have taken almost a
everyone make a contribution to the decade to see results in the larger trade
initiative.”

chain, so it’s essential to prioritize urgent


issues first and build on positive impact to
Compliance with anti-corruption regulations grow the initiatives further.

was a contributing factor in MACN’s


founding mission, but the fear of heavy Trying to tackle too many or too different
fines or prosecution was not enough to issues at once may mean that initiatives fail
encourage participation alone, says Müller to make a dent and lose the engagement of
Torbrand. The main driver was the fact that their members or stakeholders. “Especially
despite launching different programs to in challenging markets where you have an
tackle anti-corruption over the years, little ocean of problems, you have to start with
had improved for ship captains in their work one thing in one market, and then let that
environment. “If your program has been create positive rings in the water,” she
running for 10 years and you’re still facing says. 

the same challenges, it might be time to


take another course,” she says. “That is The parallels between fashion and shipping
why sector-driven and industry-specific should give the apparel industry hope that
initiatives are really important. They a unified transformation is achievable. Both
immediately create common ground for sectors are global, complex and face a
addressing risks and finding solutions wide range of issues.

because everyone is working on the same


page.” 

“Don’t look for perfection. It’s important to


just get started and it’s better to start with
Gathering data through surveys, incident five companies than not starting at all,” she
reporting, operational improvements and says. “There was nothing unique about
interviews is how MACN measures its what the shipping industry did with MACN.
global impact, ensuring that the It is something that can be replicated in any
perspectives of those who are most topic and any industry.”  

affected by their work are heard. “You have


to survey the right people who know about

the risk so you get the right responses,”


says Müller Torbrand.

58
Interview: Envisioning Fashion’s
Traceable Future
In the future, real-time data availability will
Madhava Venkatesh
become the norm. Nobody will worry about
Co-Founder and Chief traceability, it shouldn’t exist anymore,
Technology Officer at because it will be completely intertwined
TrusTrace into the business process.

Driving TrusTrace’s product and technology



If every supplier within the system collects
vision, Madhava Venkatesh has his eyes and attaches data — including social
set firmly on the future of traceability in practices, environmental practices,
supply chains. Backed by over 20 years of materials movement, and other
experience in the technology space, his sustainability information — to the product
vision is ambitious — targeting and makes it available to all, then the
inefficiencies and finding streamlined product and the data are interlinked
solutions. 

throughout its entire lifecycle.

At the core of this vision is creating “If it gets to that stage where the
industry-wide, standardized transparency information is given voluntarily, it’s
and data accessibility. “Today, information standardized and can be handled by a
exchange between brands and suppliers is company like TrusTrace, then it becomes
always on-demand — brands have to ask very powerful,” says Madhava.

their suppliers for something and the


supplier responds accordingly,” he says.

Connecting data to products would help


drive the circular economy, establish better
To collect data within this system, the social and environmental practices, and
process is linear, manual and time- accurately measure the industry’s
consuming. “As a solution to this problem, footprint. 

we should convert data sharing into an


individual transparency initiative for every Because of fashion’s built-in power
supplier in the network.”

imbalance, where conglomerates and big


businesses hold the majority of power and
Establishing network-wide transparency suppliers have very little, data is not shared
requires the cooperation of all players in equally. “In fashion, a small brand doesn’t
the supply chain. have the power to convince suppliers,” he
says.
59
“We think that data exchange and access

shouldn’t be dependent on power

dynamics, because every brand and

manufacturer deserves to know their

product information.” 

Eliminating the friction of data exchange

and facilitating the ability to share

information is crucial to building this

transparent network of compliant and

connected players. This would shift the

industry from on-demand to real-time

information exchange. “In the future, real-

time data availability will become the

norm,” says Venkatesh. “Nobody will worry

about traceability, it shouldn’t exist

anymore, because it will be completely

intertwined into the business process.”  

In the last five years, education about

traceability technology has rapidly

increased, he says, but the industry needs

more participation and investment to fuel

growth and innovation.

“Technology is improving and as more

people use it, it will continue to improve.

We encourage everyone to be part of this

technology improvement,” says Madhava.

“As more people come in, more innovation

will happen, and it will only get better.” 

His final message for businesses still

hesitant to take the plunge on a traceability

solution: “You don’t have to start

everywhere. Start on the critical areas, and

the critical products, then go deeper. Don’t

be afraid to be ambitious. Without

traceability, there is no sustainability.”  

60
A CALL TO ACTION

61
A CALL TO ACTION

The fashion industry is under immense No matter how you go about it, we’re
pressure from legislators, consumers and confident of a few universal truths. We
activists to tackle a wide range of urgent know that capturing the right primary data
issues. Until recently, there was little in the is important, but it’s vital that businesses
way of guidance and support to help analyze, learn from, and make informed
fashion businesses navigate their decisions based on this data.

traceability journey. 

To make progress on your goals, a


At TrusTrace, we recognize the knowledge thorough plan, timeline of priorities, and
gap and have sought the expertize of buy-in from internal and external
thought leaders from fashion and beyond to stakeholders is also essential. We firmly
fill it, starting with last year’s Traceability believe that collaborating with your
Playbook. Our ambition with this Roadmap suppliers as respected equals is key to not
has been to provide a step-by-step guide to only a successful traceability initiative, but
achieving your business-critical goals for a more equitable industry.  

traceability, compliance and ESG.

While implementing traceability in fashion


The traceability landscape is constantly is complicated, the work done by other
evolving, and we can never claim to have industries shows us that it’s not impossible.
all the answers or the right solution for your Fashion businesses have all the tools they
business.

needs to transform, paving the way for a


more equitable, environmentally
We hope that this step-by-step guide responsible, and transparent industry. 

supports you through each stage of your


business's traceability journey, from the Want to learn more about how TrusTrace
initial exploration to the rollout and can help your business to launch a
evolution. The templates and worksheets successful traceability program? Book a
embedded in this book will give you the demo here. To read TrusTrace’s first
framework you need to get started.

Traceability Playbook, download your free


copy here.

Below, you can find a helpful Glossary of


Traceability Terms and a Toolkit where all
supporting documents connected to each
chapter of the Roadmap have been
collated for easy access.
62
THE TRACEABILITY TOOLKIT

OUTCOME OF THIS CHAPTER

Apply the theory and insights you have


learned from the Traceability Roadmap
using the Traceability Toolkit. Use the
tried-and-tested templates and
worksheets to kickstart your
brainstorming, planning and
collaboration sessions with your
internal and external stakeholders.
63
Turning nsig ts nto I h I Action

Now that you have read the theory, it is time to turn insights into action. In the following
pages, you will find an example of ROI calculations, as well as practical templates to

support your traceability journey from the get-go. To make it easier to understand the

methodology and apply it, here is a sample brand that we have used as an e xample

throughout the toolkit.

Team Organization

Revenue
Products

USD $10 billion, with 60% from the Sells an assortment of products

US, 25% from the EU, 15% from including apparel, footwear and

Rest-of-World other items

Material exposure
f
Certi ied or Sustainable Materials

50% synthetic, 30% natural fibers, Currently 30% of the overall


20% animal fibers collection is made using sustainable

materials and the target is to

increase this to 90% of the overall


Distribution

collection by 2030
Sells through own webshop, e-

commerce platforms and multi-

brand retailers Sourcing strateg y

30% of products are sourced using

Sustainable Finance

FPP and 70% sourced through the


The company has also raised
CMT model with nominated fabrics
USD$500 Million in debt through

sustainability bonds where the h


Supply C ain

interest rates are tied to the Spread across the globe with a

following sustainability significant concentration in Asia


commitments:

Sustainability Commitments

1. Move 90% of production to certified supply chains by 2030

2. Get 20% more renewable power sources in the supply chain and decrease the

dependence on conventional power sources.

6 4
How to Calculate Return on Investment

Calculating the return on your traceability investment is an important way to prove the value

proposition to your company, driving buy-in from key business leaders. To define the ROI

for your traceability investment, you need to consider your key focus areas, and calculate

and evaluate your risk vs. investment needed.

Define Key Focus Areas:.

;A Compliance

2. Sustainable Finance

Based on the revenue share from various To support sustainable finance efforts, this

regions, key focus areas will be brand will have to track

The UFLPA, relevant for all products, The percentage of supply chains that

especially cotton, shipped from Asia to are sustainable and find alternate

the US. options for non-sustainable supplierk

AGEC, relevant for all products sold in Track the percentage of renewable

Franc1 power capacity across its supply chains

While the DPP and other EU due

diligence laws are also relevant, they For the project owner who is building out

are not yet in force and would therefore the proposal charter, it is imperative to

come as a lower priority, but included in measure the impact in monetary value.

the longer term scope.  

Considering that the brand has an active

strategy to increase certified and

sustainable materials, making the right

claims about its products is important to

Ensure the brand does not get called

out for greenwashing.

Support the demands from e-commerce

and multi-brand retailers on product

sustainability credentials

65
Calculate Risk

Here is how you could calculate the risks associated with the UFLPA, AGEC, and
sustainable financing.

1a. UFLPA

Assuming the brand has 3 shipments detained by the CBP under the UFLPA per year, the
cost to manually collect relevant documents and work with legal teams could be anywhere
between $60,000 andTasks
Scenarios $6.5 involved
million:

Breakdown of Total Cost 3


costs per shipments (USD)
shipment (USD)

Worst case Cost of data collection $10,000 + $6.5 Million


scenario + Legal fees + Cost of $100,000 +
holding the shipment $50,000 +

at port + Cost of $2 Million

shipment in case it = $2.16 million


can’t be allowed in the per shipment
US
Best Case Cost of data collection NIL + $20,000
$60K
scenario using a system + per shipment
Legal fees
Most likely
Cost of data collection $10,000 + $500K
scenario + Legal fees + Cost of $100,000 +
holding the shipment $50,000

at the port =$160,000 per


shipment
1b. C Assuming 20 of the overall
AGE % 2. Sustainable Finance. Assuming the
$2.5 billion in sales from the EU are sustainable bonds give an interest
attributed to France, the impact of not advantage of 200 basis points over the
having a solution can worst case mean $500 million loan, the interest differential
losing this revenue from the region, e ual
q could be $10 million if the business
to $500 million per year. While we do not doesn’t meet its sustainability goals.
yet know the penalties for non compliance,
-

a best case could be a fine on 2 3 of


- %

French turnover e uivalent to $10 15


q -

million.
66
Calculate Investment
Needed

For the sample brand, we assume that the


total cost of implementing a traceability
solution is around $1 million. This includes
the cost of the solution, cost of teams,
change management costs, and others.

Evaluate Risk vs.


Investment

Considering the key focus areas for this


brand, the monetary impact of failing to
comply with the relevant laws could be over
$30 million:B
$6.5 million for UFLP
$15 million for AGEC B
$10 million for sustainable loans

The total cost of implementing a traceability


solution at around $1 million for this size
brand, including the cost of the solution,
teams, change management and other
costs. With a risk of around $30 million,
mitigated with an investment of $1 million,
a traceability solution would provide an ROI
of 30 for these three focus areas alone. 

The same ROI calculations can be applied


to other business cases, such as due
diligence, supply chain risk analysis, and
implementing Digital Product Passports.

67
Define Your Vision, Goals and Milestones
for Traceability
Defining your needs is key to ensure you get the value you want to achieve out of your
program. It is also necessary to align stakeholders and resources. Below, read what this
could look like for the sample brand.

To complete the template, you can download the blank version here. While you are
focusing on year one, you may want to create rough milestones and objectives for year two
and three, pending on the priorities in your program roadmap.



68
Define Your Team and Establish Roles &
Responsibilities

Implementing traceability is a transformational program that requires a dedicated team with


clear mandate, governance and roles & responsibilities. Below, we have filled in a template
for setting up a project team and defining their roles and responsibilities. To make your own,
download the blank template here.

Project Owne]

c Align on vision and objectiveR


c Buy in with managemenN
c Align on resource availabilitU
c Budget approval


Potential People: Head of Compliance/Head of


Business/Head of Sustainability

Project Management Offic¤ Steering Committe¤


c Manage program plan and ensure program is on-trackŒ c Program GovernanceŒ
c Ensure cooperation from teams and vendorR c Review progresR
c Set goals and timelineR c Make interventionR
c Reporting and tracking

c Decide on prioritieR
c Sign off on acceptanc K
Potential People: Sr. Leaders from different divisions.
 c PNL ownership

Direct reporting to Project Owner/Steering Committee


Potential People: Head of Business Units, Head of Sourcing,

I
Head of T, Legal/Compliance Teams

Project ManagerÃ

c Day to day program managemenN


c Track actions, items, deliverables and manage riskR
c Communicate progress with key stakeholderR
c Handle requirements and prioritizations from various stakeholders

Potential People: Sr. Program Manager who can handle change management
aspects

Project ea L d 1
L d 2

Project ea L d
Project ea 3
Project ea 4
L d IT Team Lea0
(Suppl R l
ier e ation ship 
 (Externa lC
omm s (Lega anl omdC pliance (Key Acco nt u
Management  k
Mar eting  Manager s /, IntegrationR
/, U.S. Legal TeamR , Security
/, Representatives from /, End consumer commR , EU Legal Teams

/, KAM Customer  assessmenN


local sourcing officeR , Corporate , KAM Customer 2

7, User provisionin@
, Procurement team communications 6, Change
management

Coordinate with suppliers Work with key business /, Manage integrations /, Align on consumer /, Lead on the data
on = customers and align on with existing IT communication plan: needed for regulation
/, Introducing the data needs systemR what data, frequency complianceŒ
traceability program – , Handle user of updates, view for , Prioritize relevant
importance and how provisioning, security end userR regulation complianc K
you plan to rollouN assessments, , Align on Supplier 7, Finalize data sharing
,Coordinate supplier architecture reviewR disclosure plan: what format with regulators
trainin @ 7, Manage change tier of suppliers, what
7, Ensure supplier management requests dat
complianc K and implementations 7, Align on reporting
6, Decide the initial list of requirements and
supplierR data needs
2, Share supplier
feedback to solution
provider for
improvements

69
Define Your Program Roadmap for
Implementation 

This is the ultimate overview of your program to guide the implementation process. Ensure
that you have a clear roadmap for the first year in detail, as well as an idea of what comes
after that (balancing short-term action with long-term vision). Revisit the sample brand
roadmap on page 47, then download and fill in the blank template here.

By completing the blank templates in this toolkit, you will be on your way to building a
traceability program that is well-considered, robust and has the best chances of achieving
your ESG goals.

70
GLOSSARY

71
GLOSSARY

Decentralized Data: The process of attaching data to a


product, rather than the owner of a product, using
blockchain technology 

Digitization: The process of converting, streamlining and


API integration: Application programming interface are a converging analogue information from emails, PDFs and
set of protocols that allow different software systems to Excel spreadsheets into a digital format on a unified
share data 

system

Batch-level or Lot-level data: Granular information Due Diligence: The process of auditing your supply chain
pertaining to a defined quantity of a material or product to identify, mitigate, and account for potential
that is processed together 

environmental and social issues 

Bill of Material (BOM): A list of the raw materials and End to End visibility: The ability to track individual items
components, plus the quantities of each, needed to as they travel through the supply chain from raw materials
manufacture a product 

to their final destination

Blockchain: A digital ledger of transactions that is Enterprise Resource Planning (ERP): A software
duplicated and distributed across the entire network of system that allows brands to manage everyday business
computer systems 

operations like accounting, supply chain operations,


compliance and risk management 

Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR): A form of self-


regulation that businesses use to instigate philanthropic, Environmental, Social, and Corporate Governance
activist, or charitable initiatives whereby they engage in or (ESG): A​measurement that companies use to evaluate
support volunteering practices

the extent to which their operations impact three core


pillars of sustainability 

Certificate of Origin: Proof that a product was


manufactured in a specific country or region, used to Evidence request: The process of contacting suppliers,
comply with due diligence legislation 

either digitally or manually, to ask for information about


their operations in relation to a specific risk area 

Chain of Custody (CoC): As materials move through the


value chain, a Chain of Custody can be created by each Fiber Forward Traceability: The bottom-up process of
handler by recording critical information about the lot and tracing a product from the raw material phase to the end
its associated claims 

product in real-time 

Circularity: A model of production and consumption that Fragmentation: Data that has been broken up into
focuses on sharing, leasing, reusing, repairing, and different formats or across different platforms, leading to
recycling existing materials and products for as long as inefficiencies and inaccuracies 

possible 

Full package program with supplier: A sourcing model


Circular Economy: a system based on the principles of whereby the brand owns the design and works with T1
designing out waste and pollution by keeping materials suppliers, but purchases garments at a fixed cost from the
and products in use and regenerating natural systems.

garment manufacturer 

Cloud-based: Storing data through internet programs Full package production with agent: A sourcing model
rather than on central computers or networks

commonly used in fast fashion, whereby a brand


outsources the design, sourcing and production to
Compliance: Adhering to requirements that are decreed external agents

by laws and regulations 

Hard technology: Asset-intensive, physical, science-


Cut Make Trim: A sourcing model whereby the brand based technology, including innovations that integrate into
owns the design, sourcing and control of product existing production systems.
production

72
Product Backward Traceability: The process of tracking Supplier: Any actor within a supply chain that is involved
the supply chain of a product after it has been in the sourcing, manufacturing, or transportation of a
manufactured, otherwise known as top-down traceability 

material or product 

Product Lifecycle Management (PLM): Organizations Sustainable financing: The acquisition of financial
use this to develop new products, as well as track and resources to implement improvements to facilities with a
share data along the entire supply chain 

businesses supply chain 

Purchase Order (PO): A document issued by a brand to Third-party audits: Independent groups that perform on-
a supplier which indicates the styles, quantities, and the-ground assessments of facilities to ensure that they’re
prices for products they have purchased 

working in compliance with certifications 

Real-time data: Information that is collected about a Tier: Supply chains are commonly divided into tiers where
material or product, recorded as the item moves through different functions are performed to transform raw
the value chain 

material into a finished product 

Product Backward Traceability: The process of tracking Traceability: The ability to trace the history, application,
the supply chain of a product after it has been or location of a material or product through recorded
manufactured, otherwise known as top-down traceability 

identifications 

Product Lifecycle Management (PLM): Organizations Transparency: Relevant information that is available to
use this to develop new products, as well as track and all elements of the value chain in a standardized way,
share data along the entire supply chain 

which allows common understanding, accessibility, clarity


and comparison 

Purchase Order (PO): A document issued by a brand to


a supplier which indicates the styles, quantities, and Weight-based calculations: The measurement of a
prices for products they have purchased 

material or product by its weight in order to determine the


content makeup and instances of material wastage. 

Real-time data: Information that is collected about a


material or product, recorded as the item moves through
the value chain 

Request for Proposal (RFP): A document that


announces a company’s new initiative and solicits bids
from potential solution providers. A fashion brand will
produce an RFP to solicit proposals from traceability
solution providers.

Software as a Service 

Scalability: The ability to expand or increase the


implementation of a system or operation to a system-wide
level 

Soft technology: Digital B2C solutions like rental and


resale platforms, as well as B2B solutions like traceability
software 

Standardized data: The process of establishing common


identifiers so that multiple systems auditing different or
overlapping issues can exchange and collate information 

Sub Contracting: Employing people outside of your


organization to do work, either officially or unofficially

73

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