Industrial Training Report Final 38

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING
Course No.: Tex 500

Course Title: Industrial Training
Academic Semester: Spring 2022
Industrial Training Report on
Mymun complex, DBL Group
Submitted by
Student ID Name
180206126 Md Abdul Hannan
180206136 Syeda Sumaiya Islam
180206144 Parves Khan Sojol
180206167 Rudra Banik
Supervised by
Ms. Nahida Akter
Assistant Professor
Ahsanullah University of Science and Technology

July, 2023
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
Our 8 weeks long industrial training at Mymun complex of DBL Group was a great opportunity
for us to gather practical knowledge about the activities of an industry and experience working
with the professionals. We are thankful to God for giving us the strength and ability to complete
our internship smoothly and successfully.
In the accomplishment of our industrial training successfully, we had the kind support and help of
many individuals. We would like to take the opportunity to convey our earnest thanks to all of
them.
We are deeply indebted to our supervisor Ms. Nahida Akter (Assistant Professor, DTE, AUST) for
her constant supervision, encouragement as well as for providing necessary information regarding
our internship. Her constructive criticism helped us to improve our performance throughout the
internship.
We would like to thank Prof. Dr Lal Mohan Baral (Head, Department of Textile Engineering,
AUST) for his valuable suggestions and for giving us the official permission to conduct the
industrial training at Mymun Complex.
Our gratitude to all the faculty members of Department of Textile Engineering, AUST for their
valuable advices.
Special thanks to Mr. Shahinur Alam (Manager, HR department, Mymun Complex) for
consistently assisting us in every department.
We will never forget the whole hearted guidance of the officials of DBL Group including
Managers, production officers, senior production officers, executives, supervisors, operators and
all other employees. It would not be possible for us to complete the training without their
cooperation and support.
At last, we would like to acknowledge our parents for their blessing and support in every stage of
our life.
Industrial Training Report on Mymun Complex (DBL Group) 1|Page

Table of Contents
Unit-1: INTRODUCTION ............................................................................................................................ 6
1.1 Introduction ................................................................................................................................... 7
1.2 Objectives ..................................................................................................................................... 7
Unit-2: GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT THE COMPANY ............................................................... 8
2.1 Name of the Organization ................................................................................................................... 9
2.2 Overview of the Organization ............................................................................................................. 9
2.3 Board of directors ............................................................................................................................. 10
2.4 Location and Contact Information .................................................................................................... 10
2.5 Vision, Mission, Values ..................................................................................................................... 12
2.6 Concerns of DBL group .................................................................................................................... 13
2.7 Annual Production ............................................................................................................................ 14
2.8 Different Departments of Mymun Complex ..................................................................................... 14
2.9 Major Buyer of DBL Group.............................................................................................................. 15
2.10 Current Project Financer of DBL Group ......................................................................................... 16
2.12 Certificates ...................................................................................................................................... 16
UNIT-3: RAW MATERIALS...................................................................................................................... 17
3.1 List of Fabrics ................................................................................................................................... 18
3.3 List of Dyes ....................................................................................................................................... 20
3.4 List of Chemicals .............................................................................................................................. 22
UNIT-4: DYEING LABORATORY ........................................................................................................... 23
4.1 Objectives of laboratory .................................................................................................................... 24
4.2 Dyeing lab layout .............................................................................................................................. 24
4.3 Machines used in dyeing lab ............................................................................................................. 25
4.4 Lab dip work flow chart .................................................................................................................... 27
4.5 Stock solution preparation ................................................................................................................ 27
4.5.1 Standard salt & soda concentration (for bulk production) ......................................................... 29
Table 4.5.2 Standard salt and soda concentration for Viscose & Mercerized Cotton ......................... 29
4.6 Pantone Book .................................................................................................................................... 30
4.6.1 Types of Pantone Book .............................................................................................................. 30
4.6.2 Significance of PANTONE Numbers......................................................................................... 31
4.6.3 Self-shade ................................................................................................................................... 32
4.6.4 Importance of Pantone Color Guide in Textile Industry ............................................................ 32

4.7 Dyeing process .................................................................................................................................. 32
4.7.1Dyeing process of 100% cotton knit fabric. ................................................................................ 32
4.7.2 Blend Dyeing Process of CVC (60/40) Polyester of Fabric....................................................... 34
Unit-5: BATCHING SECTION .................................................................................................................. 36
5.1 Batching ............................................................................................................................................ 37
5.2 Purpose of Batching .......................................................................................................................... 37
5.3 Batch Card ........................................................................................................................................ 38
5.4 Formula for calculation of cycle time and rope length ..................................................................... 38
5.5 Procedure of Batching....................................................................................................................... 39
5.6 Machine in Batch Section ................................................................................................................. 40
Unit-6: BULK DYEING PROCESS........................................................................................................... 41
6.1 Dyeing ............................................................................................................................................... 42
6.2 Layout of CCL Dyeing Floor ............................................................................................................ 43
6.3 Dyeing machine specification of CCL .............................................................................................. 44
6.3.1(For bulk production) .................................................................................................................. 44
6.3.2 Dyeing machine specification of CCL (for sample dyeing)....................................................... 46
6.4 Machine parts of Winch dyeing Machine (SCLAVOS) .................................................................... 47
6.5 General flow chart of CCL dyeing floor ........................................................................................... 48
6.6 Process flow charts for different type of fabric with different shade ................................................ 48
6.6.1 100% Cotton Fabric dyeing process for dark shade (black): ..................................................... 48
6.6.2 100% Polyester dyeing process for Dark shade (Black): ........................................................... 52
6.6.3 Polyester/Cotton blend dyeing process for light shade (Purple): ............................................... 56
6.6.4 Viscose Dyeing Process for Dark shade:.................................................................................... 60
6.6.5 100% Cotton Dyeing process for White shade: ......................................................................... 63
6.6.6 Turquoise (Dark shade) Color dyeing on Cotton 1/1L Rib fabric: ............................................. 65
Unit-7: FINISHING SECTION .................................................................................................................. 69
7.1 Finishing: .......................................................................................................................................... 70
7.1.1 Mechanical Finishing: ................................................................................................................ 70
7.1.2 Chemical Finishing: ................................................................................................................... 70
7.2 Process Route:................................................................................................................................... 71
7.3 Layout of CCL finishing floor .......................................................................................................... 72
7.4 Finishing machine specifications of CCL floor: ............................................................................... 73
7.4.1 Slitting machine: ........................................................................................................................ 73

7.4.2 Dewatering/ Tubular squeezer machine: .................................................................................... 74
7.4.3 Stenter Machine: ........................................................................................................................ 75
7.4.4 Dryer Machine: .......................................................................................................................... 76
7.4.5 Compactor machine: .................................................................................................................. 77
7.4.6 Brushing/Raising machine: ........................................................................................................ 78
7.4.7 Sueding Machine: ...................................................................................................................... 79
Unit: 8 QUALITY & INSPECTION .......................................................................................................... 80
8.1 Quality Control: .................................................................................................................................... 81
8.2 Objectives of Quality Control: .............................................................................................................. 81
8.1.1 Online Quality Control: ............................................................................................................. 81
8.1.2 Offline Quality Control: ............................................................................................................. 82
8.3 Visual Faults mainly consists of - ..................................................................................................... 82
8.4 Process Flow Chart of Quality Control: ................................................................................................ 84
8.5 Inspection System for Finished Fabric: ................................................................................................ 85
8.5.1 4-Point Inspection System: ...................................................................................................... 85
8.6 Different Types of Faults in Quality Control: ................................................................................... 86
Unit: 9 TEXTILE TESTING SERVICE LIMITED (TTSL)....................................................................... 87
9.1 Textile Testing Service Limited (TTSL): .......................................................................................... 88
9.2 Objectives of TTSL:.......................................................................................................................... 88
9.3 TTSL mainly consists of three departments and those are- .............................................................. 88
9.3.1 Washing Lab: ............................................................................................................................. 88
9.3.2 Physical Lab: .............................................................................................................................. 90
9.3.3 Chemical Lab: ............................................................................................................................ 93
Unit-10: UTILITY ...................................................................................................................................... 96
10.1 Domain of utility ............................................................................................................................. 97
10.2 Functions of utility .......................................................................................................................... 97
10.3 Utility services ................................................................................................................................ 97
10.3.1 Electricity: ................................................................................................................................ 98
10.3.2 Steam supply: ........................................................................................................................... 99
10.3.3 Compressed Air Supply: ........................................................................................................ 100
10.3.4 Gas Supply: ............................................................................................................................ 101
Unit-11: MAINTENANCE ....................................................................................................................... 102
11.1 Maintenance: ................................................................................................................................. 102

11.2 Objectives of Maintenance:........................................................................................................... 102
11.3 Maintenance Procedure: ................................................................................................................ 102
11.4 Types of Maintenance: .................................................................................................................. 102
Unit-12: WTP & ETP................................................................................................................................ 103
12.1 Water treatment plant (WTP): ....................................................................................................... 104
12.2 Effluent treatment plant (ETP):..................................................................................................... 106
12.3 Biological treatment plant: ............................................................................................................ 106
12.4 Chemicals Required for Biological ETP and function: ................................................................. 106
12.5 Quality In-let & Out-let Effluent : ................................................................................................ 107
12.6 ETP Flow diagram (Color City limited) ....................................................................................... 108
12.7 Description of ETP Units: ............................................................................................................. 109
12.7.1 Sludge management system includes:.................................................................................... 112
Unit-13: COMPLIANCE, CSR & SUSTAINIBILITY PRACTICE ........................................................ 113
13.1 Compliance ................................................................................................................................... 114
13.2 Corporate and social responsibilities (CSR) ................................................................................. 114
13.2.1 Children Education Support Initiative ................................................................................... 114
13.2.2 Special Policy for Women worker ......................................................................................... 114
13.2.3 Canteen, Medical & Day Care Facilities................................................................................ 114
13.2.4 Disability Inclusion Program ................................................................................................. 114
13.2.5 Occupational Health and Safety (OHS) ................................................................................. 114
13.2.6 Fire safety policies ................................................................................................................. 115
13.2.7 DBL pharmacy ....................................................................................................................... 115
13.2.8 Bandhan Fair Price Shop........................................................................................................ 115
13.3 Sustainability 5.0........................................................................................................................... 115
13.3.1 DBL Sustainability Pillars...................................................................................................... 115
13.3.2 Environment Management ..................................................................................................... 115
13.3.3 Sustainable Projects: .............................................................................................................. 116
Unit-14: CONCLUSION .......................................................................................................................... 118
14.1 Conclusion: ................................................................................................................................... 119

Unit-1: INTRODUCTION

1.1 Introduction
Industrial training exposes the students to actual working environment and upgrades their
knowledge and skills what they have learned in the university. In an industrial training, students
join a company which is relevant to their study and they have to complete their training within a
particular time period. Students get to know about the practical terms of their study material in an
industrial training. So, it is very important for a student to complete the industrial training sincerely.
Industrial training for the students of Wet processing stream includes the knowledge of Dyeing
lab, Bulk dyeing floor, finishing, quality control, printing, washing, testing lab, maintenance etc.
Students has to gather all the information and techniques related to these sections.
We have got an opportunity to conduct our industrial training at Mymun Complex, DBL Group.
This complex includes Mymun Textiles, Hamza Textiles, Color City Ltd, DB Tex Ltd, TTSL.
1.2 Objectives
• To experience the discipline of working with professionals in the company.
• To relate the theoretical knowledge and work techniques in the work place.
• To develop communication, interpersonal and technical skills.
• To gather the knowledge about the functions of an organization.

Unit-2: GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT
THE COMPANY

Company Profile
2.1 Name of the Organization

Dulal Brothers Limited (DBL Group)
2.2 Overview of the Organization

➢ Name of the factory: Dulal Brothers Limited (DBL Group)
➢ Corporate office: Capita South Avenue Tower, 6th Floor House 50, Road 03, Gulshan
o Avenue Gulshan 1, Dhaka 1212, Bangladesh. Telephone: +880-2-58817735Email:
info@dbl-group.com
➢ Management: Abdul Wahed (Chairman)
• M.A.Rahim (Vice-chairman)
• M.A.Jabbar (Managing Director)
• M.A.Quader (Deputy Manager & Group CEO)
➢ Factory type: DBL Group is one of the largest and 100% export oriented composite knit
garments and textile manufacturing industry in Bangladesh.
➢ Garments capacity: 13 million pcs/month
➢ Knitting capacity: 100 tons/day
➢ Dyeing capacity: 130 tons/day
➢ Printing capacity: 35 tons/day
➢ Washing capacity: Normal wash 68,440, Acid wash 20,000 pcs/day
➢ Spinning capacity: 51000 kg finished yarn/day
➢ Annual turnover: 870 million USD
➢ Man power: 45000

2.3 Board of directors
Abdul Wahed (Chairman)
M.A.Rahim (Vice-chairman)
M.A.Jabbar (Managing Director)
M.A.Quader (Deputy Manager & Group CEO)
2.4 Location and Contact Information

Factory Location:
Mymun Complex is located at Nayapara, Kashimpur, Gazipur. The distance from AUST to
Figure 2.1 Google map location of the factory and distance from AUST
Industrial Training Report on Mymun Complex (DBL Group) 10 | P a g e

Mymun Complex is about 35.8 km (via Dhaka-Ashulia Highway
Location and Contact Information of Corporate Office-
Capita South Avenue Tower, 6th

Floor House 50, Road 03,
Gulshan Avenue
Gulshan 1, Dhaka 1212,

Bangladesh.
Telephone: +880-2-58817735
Email: info@dbl-group.com
Fig 2.2: Location of Corporate Office from AUST
Fig2.3: Mymun Complex

2.5 Vision, Mission, Values
Vision: We envision to sustain and grow as a diversified global conglomerate.
Mission: To exceed stakeholders’ expectations with key focus on environmental, social, and
corporate governance.
Values:
Integrity Passion Adaptability Care Excellence

2.6 Concerns of DBL group
• Dulal Brothers Ltd
• Jinnat Apparels Ltd
• Flamingo Fashions Ltd
Apparels and • Jinnat Fashions Ltd
Knitting • Mawna Fashions Ltd
• Jinnat Knitwears Ltd
Spinning • Matin Spinning Mills Ltd
Fabric printing • DB Tex Ltd
• Mymun Textiles Ltd

Fabric Dyeing and Finishing • Color City Ltd
• Hamza Textiles Ltd
Garments Printing • Thanbee Print World Ltd
Packaging • Parkway Packaging and Printing Ltd
Ceramics
• DBL Ceramics Ltd
Distribution • DBL Distribution Ltd
• DBL Telecom Ltd

ICT and Telecommunications • DBL Communications Pvt. Ltd
• DBTEL
Sports • DBL Sports Ltd
Dredging • DBL Dredging Ltd
Sewing Thread
• Color City Ltd
Pharmaceuticals • DBL Pharmaceuticals Ltd

2.7 Annual Production
The Annual Production of Mymun Complex is 17,700 Tons.
• PRODUCT MIX
• 100% Cotton
• 100% Polyester (Spun & Filament)
• 95% Viscose
• Nylon
• CVC (Chief Valued Cotton)
• PC
• Grey Mélange
2.8 Different Departments of Mymun Complex

Production related department:
• Planning and Control

• Batch Section
• Chemical Store
• Dyeing Lab
• Pretreatment and Dyeing Floor
• Finishing Section
• Quality Control Section
• Printing Section
• Textile Testing Services Limited
• Washing Section
• Maintenance
• Utility
• Water Treatment Plant
• Effluent Treatment Plant

Supporting Departments:
• Procurement
• Human Resources
• Management Information System
• Research and Development
• Finance and Accounting
• Administration
• Marketing
• Medical
2.9 Major Buyer of DBL Group

2.10 Current Project Financer of DBL Group
2.12 Certificates
OHSAS 18001:2007 standard
Global Organic Textile Standard

(GOTS)
Organic Content Standard (OCS-IN)
Oeko-Tex Standard 100
ISO 14001
ISO 9001
Global Recycled Standard (GRS)

UNIT-3: RAW MATERIALS

3.1 List of Fabrics
1. 1% grey mélange, Single Jersey (Scoured)
2. Single Lacoste, 100% pique cotton
3. 100% Polyester, Slub, Single Jersey
4. 100% Cotton, 200 GSM, Single Jersey
5. CVC 60/40, Fleece fabric
6. Single Jersey, 95% cotton & 5% lycra
7. CVC 65/35, Pique
8. 100% cotton, 2×2 rib
9. CVC 60/40, 1×1 rib
10. 100% cotton, 120 GSM, Single Jersey
11. PC 60/40
12. PC 65/35, Fleece fabric
13. 100% cotton, lycra rib
14. CVC 60/40, slub, 220 GSM
15. 50% Cotton& 50% Modal
16. 100% Viscose
17. 48% cotton + 48% Polyester + 4% Mod Acrylic
18. PC 65/35
19. 100% loose slub
20. PC 50/50, 1×1 rib
21. PC 80/20 Single Jersey
22. 83% polyester & 17% lycra, Single Jersey

23. 100% cotton, 1×1 rib
24. 100% polyester

25. 70/30 fleece fabric
26. 70% Polyester & 30% Viscose
27. 60/40, 2×1 rib
28. 82% polyester & 18% lycra
29. 95% Viscose & 5% lycra
30. 70% polyester & 30% viscose, Single Jersey
31. CVC 80/20, fleece fabric
32. Lycra fleece
33. 65% polyester & 35% Viscose, 2×1 rib
34. 100% cotton waffle
35. CVC 80/20 Single Jersey
36. 52.5% Cotton & 47.5% Polyester
37. 60% Cotton & 40& Polyester , Lycra fleece
38. 50% Polyester & 50% Cotton, Single Jersey
39. 75% Cotton & 25% Polyester, pique
40. 100% Polyester, 1×1 rib
41. 50% Cotton & 50% Modal, slub
42. 88% Cotton & 12% Viscose, B.Terry
43. 60% cotton & 40% polyester, Waffle
44. 65% Polyester & 35% Cotton, 2×2 rib
45. 100% cotton slub
46. 50% polyester & 50% cotton, Slub

47. 75% Cotton & 25% Polyester, Single Jersey
48. 52% Polyester & 48% Viscose
49. 60% Viscose & 40% cotton, fleece
50. 50% polyester & 50% cotton, Terry
51. 57% Viscose+ 38% polyester+ 5% lycra
3.3 List of Dyes

Dye Class Manufacturer Dye Name
Reactive Dyes Bezema • Bezaktiv Rubine S Max
• Bezaktiv Blue SFR
• Bezaktiv Cosmos Red S-C
(Fluorescent)
• Bezaktiv Cosmos Navy S-
C(Fluorescent)
• Bezaktiv Turquoish SBF
• Bezaktiv Red S-2B
• Bezaktiv Blue SGLD
• Bezaktiv Red S-3B
• Bezaktiv Yellow S-3R
• Bezaktiv Turquoish VG
• Bezaktiv Yellow S-8G
• Bezaktiv Blue V-2B-133
• Bezaktiv Blue S-Matrix
• Bezaktiv Red S-Matrix
• Bezaktiv Yellow S-Matrix
• Bezaktiv Blue SLF
• Bezaktiv Red SLF
• Bezaktiv Yellow SLF
Huntsman • Novacron Deep Cherry S-D
• Novacron Super Black G
• Novacron DK Blue WR
• Novacron Yellow S3R
• Novacron Red SB
• Cibacron Red FNR

Dystar • Levafix Amber C-A
• Levafix Fast Red C-A
• Levafix B/Yellow C-A
• Remazol Deep Black GW
• Remazol B/Green 6B
• Remazol Yellow 3GL
• Remazol Orange RGB
• Remazol Orange RR
• Remazol Yellow RR
• Remazol Red RR
• Remazol Blue RR
• Levafix Blue C-A
• Levafix Orange C-A
• Levafix Br, Red E-4BA
• Levafix Yellow C-A
• Levafix Brill Blue E-FFN
• Levafix Brill Red E-6BA
Disperse dyes Huntsman • Terasil Blue WW-2GS
• Terasil Red WW-BES
• Terasil Yellow W-6GS
• Terasil Navy GR-LC
• Terasil Violet BL-150%
• Terasil Red-FBN
• Terasil Red-WRS
• Terasil Red-WFS
• Terasil Red-W4BS
• Terasil G/Yellow-W3R
• Terasil Blue BGE-200%
Clariant • Terasil Blue WW-2GS

• Terasil Red WW-BES
• Terasil Yellow W-6GS
• Terasil Navy GR-LC
• Terasil Violet BL-150%
• Terasil Red-FBN
• Terasil Red-WFS
• Terasil Red-W4BS
• Terasil G/Yellow-W3R
• Terasil Blue BGE-200%
• Drimarine Red HF-G
• Drimarine Blue K2RL
• Drimarine Violet K2RL

• Drimarine Red K8B
Rifa • Rifazol Navy Blue-SE

Corporation • Rifazol B/Blue RSPL
3.4 List of Chemicals

Auxiliaries Use
Caustic Soda (NaOH) Alkali
Tubingal 9270 Softener
Citric Acid Acid
Hydrogen Per Oxide (H₂O₂) Bleaching agent
Hydrose Reducing agent
Cellusoft Combi 9800L Peroxide killer
Kleerix NAC Acid for neutralization
Oxinol LLS Anti-creasing agent
Mega B-R9 plus Enzyme for bio polishing
PRESTOGEN SB Levelling agent
SARABID MIP Levelling agent
RUCOGEN WBL Detergent
Sodium Sulphate Salt for exhaustion of dyestuffs
Winscour RDC Soaping agent
Soda Ash(Light) Fixation of dyestuffs
Neosol BA- LD Sequestering agent
Albaflow FFC Penetrating agent
Albatex AB-45 Buffer

UNIT-4: DYEING LABORATORY

4.1 Objectives of laboratory
❖ Prepare lab-dip according to the swatch of the buyer.
❖ Recipe correction for shade matching.
❖ Provide the recipe to the floor according to the approved swatch.
❖ To minimize the variation between bulk production and lab-dip.
❖ Testing of new dyes in the store.
4.2 Dyeing lab layout
Dyeing lab
Lawar machine
= Lab dyeing machine
= Padder operating machine
= Washing machine
Robo lab
= Oven dryer machine
= Sink
= Pipetting table
Spectrophotometer machine
Light Box

4.3 Machines used in dyeing lab
Machine Name : Lab Padder Operating Machine
Manufacturer: SHANGHAI
01 Origin : China
No of Machine : 01
Machine Name : Lab Dyeing Machine

Manufacturer: WERNER Mathis AG (Labomat)
Origin: Switzerland
02
No of Machine :12
Capacity : 24 jars
Machine Name : Lab Dyeing Machine (Data Color)

Manufacturer: AHIBA IRpro
Origin: USA
03
No of Machine :08
Capacity : 20 jars
Machine Name : Washing Machine

Manufacturer : Ariston
Origin : Italy
04
No. of Machine : 05
Capacity : 7 kg B

Machine Name : Oven Dryer ( CARBOLITE)
Manufacturer : James H. Heal
Origin : England
05
Machine Name : Spectrometer Flash SF 850

Manufacturer : USA
06
Machine Name : Light Box System

Manufacturer: Shenzhen three NH technology
07
Machine Name : Motorized Pipette

Manufacturer: RAININ
08

4.4 Lab dip work flow chart
Swatch/qtx/pantone reference from merchandiser
Input swatch/qtx in spectrophotometer and purchase pantone swatch with qtx by online.
Predict recipe by DATA color and save it DATA color or manually using our previous
records.
Dye at lab dyeing machine. Soaping, drying and conditioning at room temperature.
Shade check by spectrophotometer and also visually under appropriate light,
Make correction recipe by spectrophotometer and also manually for 2nd batch dyeing.
if necessary Repeat the process for 3rd and 4th batch.
Select 3-4 shades both visually and DATA color and store batches in
DATA color.
After getting approval marking approved shade and make recipe card for production.
4.5 Stock solution preparation

For small-scale lab operations, the amounts required may be too small to weigh out accurately,
making it difficult to repeat the procedure with any degree of precision. For example, a 0.5% shade
for 5.0 g of fabric requires 0.025 g of dye. In such cases stock solutions of dyes and other
ingredients are prepared as described above and the required volumes measured out accurately into
the dye bath. For example, 1g of dye dissolved in 200 ml of water gives a 0.5% stock solution. For
each 1g of fabric, 0.01 g of dye is required to provide a 1% shade (o.w.f); 0.01 g of dye is contained
in ml of stock solution. Therefore for every 1 g of fabric, 2 ml of stock solution will be required to
produce a 1% shade. The same reasoning applies to other additives; for example, the composition

of 10% Glauber’s salt, based on the mass of fabric, is calculated in the same way as a 10% shade
of dye.
The general formula shown which may be used for representing the amount of stock dye
solution required:
Fabric weight × Shade%

Volume of stock solution required (ml) =
Stock Solution Concentration (%)
In this way the required volumes of dye solution and other additives may be calculated, added
together and subtracted from the total volume of dye bath to obtain the amount of water required.
Also, if the color or chemical dosage is given in grams per liter, the following formula can be used
Fabric Weight × M: L × (g/l)

Volume of stock solution required (ml) =
1000 × Stock solution concentration (%)
The following guideline is for using stock solutions according to the percentage of dye required
for creating or matching a shade –
Table Stock solution according to shade percentage
Shade% Stock solution

1 – 1.99 1%
2 – above 2%
0.1 – 0.99 0.5%
0.01 – 0.099 0.1%
0.001 – 0.0099 0.01%
0.0001 – 0.00099 0.001%
Stock Solution in here is replaced & prepared in a routine basis. Routine as a chart is given
below:

Table Stock solution preparation routine
Stock solution Replacement time

Dyes After every 12 hours
Glauber’s salt Everyday
Caustic soda Everyday
Other auxiliaries Every week
Soda ash Fresh each time
4.5.1 Standard salt & soda concentration (for bulk production)

Table Standard salt and soda concentration for Cotton
Caustic
Shade depth % Salt (solid) Soda (solid) (38° 𝑩𝒆)ml Caustic
gm/Lt gm/lt (449.6) (solid)gm/Lt
<0.1 10 5 -
0.1-0.5 20 10 -
0.5-1.0 30 15 -
1.0-2.0 40 15 -
2.0-3.0 50 18 -
3.0-3.5 60 20 -
3.5-4.0 60 20(5) 2.2 1
4.0-5.0 70 22(5) 2.5 1.1
5.0-6.0 80 22(5) 2.8 1.2
6.0-8.0 90 25(5) 3.0 1.3
≥8.0 90 25(5) 3.5 1.5
Table 4.5.2 Standard salt and soda concentration for Viscose & Mercerized Cotton
Shade depth % Salt (solid) gm/Lt Soda (solid) gm/Lt
<0.1 10 5
0.1-0.5 15 7.5
0.5-1.0 20 10
1.0-2.0 30 12
2.0-3.0 40 15

3.0-3.5 50 18
3.5-4.0 50 18
4.0-5.0 60 20
5.0-6.0 70 20
≥6.0 80 20
4.6 Pantone Book

Pantone book is largely a standardized color reproduction
system. It is used by artists, designers, printers, manufacturers,
marketers and clients in all industries worldwide for accurate
color identification, design specification, quality control and
communication. The below chart is intended as a reference
guide only. The colors here have been matched as closely as
possible.
4.6.1 Types of Pantone Book

There are two types of pantone color book. Both are designed
Figure4.1 Pantone Book
from the Pantone Textile Color
System.
1. TCX: It stands for ‘Textile Cotton Extend’. These are colorful pure “Cotton Swatch” in each
individual color. It looks like a passport guide or chip set. However, TCX Pantone books are
much more expensive because it is a complete cotton swatch. It can cost from hundreds to
thousands of dollars.
Example: PANTONE 19-4052 TCX Classic Blue

2. TPX: It stands for ‘Textile Paper Extend’. In this case
it is made of “Paper Swatch” instead of cotton swatch,
and each swatch is colored in a unique color. The TPX
Pantone Book is much cheaper than the TCX. The TPX
Pantone book has recently been updated to the TPG
Pantone book. TPX & TPG colors are the same, but the
TPG is much more eco-friendly. (Textile Paper Green –
All lead and chromium content removed from TPX Figure 4.2: TPX color chart templates
products for eco-friendly update). Example: PANTONE 17-5126 TPX Viridian Green.
4.6.2 Significance of PANTONE Numbers

TCX and TPX numbers are not just a unique number, they have some special meaning that reflects
some of the characteristics of the colorant. We know that there are three color attributes, namely:
Hue, Value and Chroma. The pantone number here consists of 6 digits, the first two digits of which
express the Lightness of the color, the middle two digits represent the Hue, i.e., Red/
Yellow/Green/Blue and the last two digits represent Chroma i.e., the dullness/vividness or depth
of the color.
For example:
1. PANTONE 13–4720 TCX (Tanager Turquoise)

13 = Value
47 = Hue
20 = Chroma

4.6.3 Self-shade
Self-Shade is the shade of each
single dye. Each single dye has
different color characteristic in
different ratio.
Figure 4.3 self-shade
4.6.4 Importance of Pantone Color Guide in Textile Industry

The Pantone Color Guide is a blessing in disguise for fabric coloration in the textile industry. If a
buyer tells a manufacturer from America that he will need 1000 kg of dyed fabric with ‘light peach
cream color’. But how does he know exactly what color the buyer is talking about? In this case the
manufacturer will get different opinions from colleagues and get confused, but the correct decision
can’t be reached. But this will be easier if he has a Pantone Book, if the buyer says the pantone
number like “Peach Fuzz 13-1023 TPX” instead of the name of the color, then he can easily find
that color from the Pantone Book. In other words, Pantone Book has made it easy to get ideas
about specific colors before dyeing and matching colors with the samples after coloration process.
4.7 Dyeing process

4.7.1Dyeing process of 100% cotton knit fabric.
Recipe:
Fabric weight: 5gm
M: L= 1:8
Glauber’s salt: 40 g/L
Soda ash: 16 g/L
Leveling agent:1cc
Temperature: 60°C

Dyes:
Shade: ORANGE
Bezaktiv Yellow S-3R: .47%
Bezaktiv Red S2B: .119%
Remazol Orange RR: .015%
For Soaping:
Soaping agent (OXYNOL.894): 7 g/l
M: L: 1:10
Time: 30 min
Temperature: 90°c
Dyeing procedure:
Auxiliaries + Dye + Salt + Fabric were added at room temperature.
Temperature gradient 20C/min up to 60°C was set and run for 30 minutes.
After 30 minutes alkali was added and continued at 60°C for 60 minutes.
The sample was rinsed in running cold water until clear water comes out.
Boiled off in water containing 50ml in 1:10 liquor ratio soaping agent and run for 30 minutes.
The sample was rinsed in running cold water until clear water come out.
Then the fabric is squeezed and dried into dryer.

Dyeing Scheme 90⁰
30'
60° 30' 60'
”
RT
Alkali
Soaping agent Drain

Auxiliaries + Dye +
Salt + Fabric
Fig: 4.1 Flow Diagram of Dyeing 100% Cotton Knit Fabric
4.7.2 Blend Dyeing Process of CVC (60/40) Polyester of Fabric
RECIPE
Fabric weight: 5gm
M: L= 1:8
Depargator: 1g/l (40cc for 5g)
Meropan KP (buffer): 0.7g/l (28cc for 5gm)
Gasol WP (leveling agent): 0.5g/l (20cc for 5g)
Acetic acid: 1g/l
Glauber’s salt: 40 g/L
Soda ash: 16 g/L
Leveling agent: 1cc
Temperature: for polyester 130°𝐶for cotton 80°𝐶
Dyes:
Bezactive Yellow –S martin: 0.472%
Bezactive Red – S martin: 0.142%
Bezactive Black GO: 3.849%
Shade: BLACK

For Carbonizing (H2SO4, 98% conc.): 70ml+30ml water
Stock solution: 0.5%
For Reduction Clearing:
Hydrose: 8g/l
Caustic soda: 6g/l
Temperature: 90°C
Time: 10min
Dyeing procedure:
135⁰C × 45’
90⁰C × 10’
Cooling
40C
Drain Hydrose + Caustic
Dispersing agent+ acetic acid+ Dye+ Fabric
Fig: 4.2 Flow diagram of polyester part dyeing Fig: 4.2 Reduction clearing
90⁰C × 30’
60⁰C 30’ 60’
RT
Alkali
Auxiliaries + Dye + Drain Soaping agent

Salt + Fabric
Fig: 4.3 Flow diagram of cotton part dyeing

Unit-5: BATCHING SECTION

5.1 Batching
Batching is the process of organizing the grey fabric to be dyed according to the requirements of
the buyer considering the time of delivery. In batch section, grey fabric is collected from the
knitting section and turning of the fabric is done if required. Then the batch is prepared for dyeing
according to the criteria (order sheet, machine capacity, shade%, type of fabric, machine
availability). After that, the batch is sent for dyeing with the batch card. In a dyeing floor, dyeing
machines have different capacities, different number of chambers and nozzles. So, it is very
important to distribute the fabrics according to the size and capacity of the machine. For this
reason, fabric quantity is calculated considering the machine capacity and nozzle number. Then
different amount of fabrics are divided by weighing. After distribution, the fabrics are turned by
using turning machine if required.
5.2 Purpose of Batching

• To utilize the maximum capacity (90-95%) of the dyeing machine.
• To prepare the batch according to the following criteria-
➢ Order sheet
➢ Machine capacity
➢ Machine availability
➢ Dye shade percentage
➢ Composition of the fabric
➢ Type of fabric
➢ Delivery time
• To collect grey fabric from knitting department according to the order sheet.
• To avoid time consumption for preparing the grey fabrics and arranging them.
• To avoid interruption during dyeing process.
• To prepare batch card and send the fabrics with the batch card and keep a record for future.

5.3 Batch Card
The batch card is prepared for dyeing according to
the buyer requisition. There have all the information
about the fabric.
• Color Name
• Fabric Diameter
• Diameter gauge
• Cut mark
• Fabric type
• Yarn count
• Brand name
• GSM Figure 5.1 Batch card
• LOT no
• Yarn LOT for body/rib/collar
• Yarn LOT for loop
5.4 Formula for calculation of cycle time and rope length

Fabric GSM × Fabric Dia (Open) × 2.54
❖ Fabric Linear Density = m
100 × 1000
Total Fabric Weight
❖ Cycle Time = min
Linear Density × Reel Speed × No.of Nozzle
Total Fabric Weight
❖ Fabric Loading % = × 100
Maximum Capacity of the Machine
Fabric Weight × 1000
❖ Rope Length = m
GSM × Fabric Dia in meter × No.of chambers

5.5 Procedure of Batching
Receive order sheet and prepare the dyeing plan according to the order
sheet.
Check the fabric availability and take required amount of fabric.
Turn the fabric using air turning machine (if required).
Calculat the rope length according to machine capacity.
Separate the fabrics according to the nozzle number and capacity of the machine.
Distribute fabrics for collar/cuff with the body fabric ensuring equal rope length.
Stitch collar/cuff with the body fabric.
Prepare the batch card
Send the fabric with the batch card for dyeing

5.6 Machine in Batch Section
Machine
name Quantity Model Brand name Purpose Machine figure
ST- -to make the

Air fabric in rope
TFRM-
Turning 2 SUNTECH form
500
Machine
-to protect the

technical face
side
Via
- to minimize
Ciurlina
Bag the excessive
75 -
sewing 3 COMATEX friction in
24050
machine surface in bulk
Ghisalba
dyeing
Bergamo
-to minimize
the shade
change/staining

Unit-6: BULK DYEING PROCESS

6.1 Dyeing
Dyeing is one of the most important parts of textile sector. After completing the process of lab dip
preparation, we were supervised to study on dyeing of Color City Ltd. (CCL), a sister concern of
DBL Group, as a part of our advanced wet processing industrial training. It is necessary for us to
know about the different types of dyeing machine, dyeing procedure, and chemicals functions etc.
which are used for dyeing process.
Figure: 6.1 Color City Dyeing floor.

6.2 Layout of CCL Dyeing Floor
S/D 32 Sample dyeing machine 33 to 38 (FONG)

CHEMICAL
OFFICE
ROOM
TO
S/D 21
M/C 19- M/C 38

M/C 1 22(ACME)
S/D 19&20
S/D 17&18
M/C 2 M/C 18
S/D 15&16
M/C 23
S/D 13&14
M/C 3 M/C 17
M/C 24 S/D 11&12
M/C 4 M/C 16 S/D 9&10
M/C 25 S/D 7&8

Bulk dyeing side
M/C 5 M/C 15 S/D 5&6

M/C 26
S/D 3&4
M/C 14
M/C 6 M/C 27 S/D 2
S/D 1
M/C 13
M/C 28
M/C 7
M/C 37
M/C 12 M/C 29
M/C 36
M/C 8 M/C 35
M/C 11 M/C 30
M/C 34
M/C 9 M/C 31 M/C 33
M/C 32

6.3 Dyeing machine specification of CCL
6.3.1(For bulk production)
Machin Machine Manufacture Model Capaci No. of Machine figure

e No. Name r ty Nozzle
(Kgs) s
1500 6
Venus 1200 4
HT-4
M/C
No Athena,
SCLAVOS 1000 4
1-18 & Greece
23-38
900 3
Venus 750 3
HT-3
600 2
500 2

150-
1
250
M/C AM-
300-
No 19- ACME Taiwan ICD 1
600
22 K

6.3.2 Dyeing machine specification of CCL (for sample dyeing)
Machine Machine Manufac Model Capacity No. of Machine figure
No. Name turer (Kgs) Nozzle
s
Athena, Apollo
1-32 SCLAVOS 20-90 1
Greece HTSF-B
Fong’s
National
Engineeri ALLFIT-
33-38 Fong 10-30 1
ng Co. 30
Ltd.,
China

6.4 Machine parts of Winch dyeing Machine (SCLAVOS)
• Main pump
• Side tank
• Reel
• Nozzle
• Heat exchanger
Side Heat
• Unload reel tank exchanger
• Panel board
• Monitor
• Filter
• Motor
Filter
• Salt screw
Monitor Nozzle
Panel
board

6.5 General flow chart of CCL dyeing floor
Grey Fabric Storage
Batching
Loading Fabric
Set Program By Sedo master
Pretreatment
Dyeing
After Treatment
Unload
6.6 Process flow charts for different type of fabric with different shade
6.6.1 100% Cotton Fabric dyeing process for dark shade (black):
Order specification and recipe:
Buyer: C&A
Fabric GSM: 160
Fabric Composition: 96% cotton 4% Elastomer
Fabric Type: Single Jersey
Color Depth: Special (B/R)
Liquor Ratio: 1:7
Pretreatment chemicals:
Rucogen WBL (Detergent): 1.00 g/l

Prestogen-SB (Liquid) (Sequestering agent): 0.80 g/l
Oxinol LLS (Anti creasing agent): 1.50 g/l
Soda ash (light) (Alkali): 3.50 g/l
Hydrogen per oxide (Bleaching agent): 2.00 g/l
ROSSACID N LQUID: 1.30 g/l
Enzyme treatment:
Cellusoft Combi9800 L (Peroxide killer+ biopolishing): 0.70%
Dye stuff items:
Bezaktiv Yellow S-Matrix : 2.446250%
Bezaktiv Red S-Matrix : 1.580800%
Rifazol Navy Blue SE : 3.862700%
Dyeing auxiliary items:
Sodium Sulphate: 72.00g/l
Soda ash: 2.00 g/l linear dossing
Soda ash: 23 g/l progress 2 dossing
DBC 10 (leveling agent): 0.10%
OXINOL LLS (Anti creasing agent): 1.50 g/l
Rossacid N Lquid (Acetic acid): 1.50 g/l
Oxinol CNW (soaping agent): 0.75 g/l
Lexex DL (leveling agent): 2.00 g/l
Winscour RDC (soaping agent): 1.50 g/l

Process flow chart:
Water filling
Temperature raise to 60°C
Fabric Load and Save L:R
Transfer scouring auxiliaries an raise the temperature to 100°C (2.5°C/min),

Run time = 30mins
Fabric Load
Hot Wash at 80°C, (10Lt/kg)
Normal wash at 60°C, (5Lt/kg)
Drain and filling
Then add Caustic Soda (NaOH) and Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2),

Dossing time (5’+5’) and Save L: R
Steam up to 100°C (2.5°C/min), Run time 30 min
Cooling till 80°C, (2.5°C/min)

Raise the temperature to 60°C and start acid
dossing for 5min, Run time 6min
Wash at 60°C, (5Lt/kg)
Recall and check pH, for cotton dyeing

required pH around (6.5-7)
Enzyme transfer (Combi is a neutral enzyme)
Add leveling Agent, dossing time 3 min

Run time 5min
Salt dossing in two steps (20’+20’) and Run time

25min
Dye dossing for 25 min and Run time 5min, Temperature 60°C
Soda ash dosing by steps (1st step Linear dossing 20’, 2nd step Progress2 dossing, 45’)
Color Steam (Fixation process), cut samples and check shade in every
10min interval, if shade match then drops the bath.
Drain and Filling
Aquachron at 60°C, (10Lt/Kg)
Drain and Recall

Acid dossing for 5min,
Run time 6min at 60°C
Drain and filling, Steam up to 85°/90°C for soaping
Dossing soaping chemical and buffer,
Run time 10min at 90°C, 2 times
Aquachron at 85°C, (10L/kg) – Hot wash,

Aquachron at 60C, (8Lt/kg) – Medium wash,
Aquachron at 45C, (4Lt/kg) – Cold wash
Add fixing chemical or softener if required
Unload
6.6.2 100% Polyester dyeing process for Dark shade (Black):

Buyer: HUGO BOSS
Fabric GSM: 180
Fabric Composition: 97% Polyester 3% Elastane
Color Depth: Special(B/R)
Liquor Ratio: 1:7.50
Verinol P-E6(Dispersing agent) – 1.00g/l

Albatex AB-45(Buffer) – 1.00g/l
Citric Acid – 1.30 g/l
Hy.SRHA (Softener) – 3.00 g/l
Rucogen WBL(Detergent) – 0.70 g/l
Albaflow FFC (penetrating agent) – 0.20 g/l
Oxinol LLS (Anti creasing agent) – 1.50 g/l
Citric acid – 0.80 g/l (for achieving dyeing pH)
Dyes stuff item
Neocron Yellow brown SP 3RT 0.315800%
Neocron Black SP 2RT New 7.200000%
Reduction clearing items:
Caustic soda – 8.00 g/l
Hydrose – 10.00 g/l
Multiscour 2201 special – 1 g/l
Add these items for 2 times

Process flow chart:
Water filling
\
Temperature raises to 60°C
Fabric load and Save L:R
Mild scouring with (Soda ash+ Detergent+ Anti-creasing agent+ Anti reducing agent)
Temperature raises to 90°C, (2.5C/min)

Run time= 20min
Cooling until 60°C
Neutralization with Citric acid at 60°C and check pH,

Run time =10min
Drain and recall
Transfer dyeing auxiliaries (Dispersing agent+ Citric acid+ Softener+ dye penetrating agent),
Check pH and attain dyeing pH around (3.8-4.0)
Dye dossing

Heating at different gradient,
(60°-80°C – 1.4°C/min)
(80°-115°C – 0.70°C/min)
(115°-135°C – 1°C/min)
Run time = 40min
Start cooling at gradient of,

(135°-115°C – 1°C/min)
(115°-80°C – 1.4°C/min)
Drain and recall
Raise the temperature to 80°C and carry hot wash for 15min
Drain and recall
Reduction clearing with (Hydrose + Caustic+ Multiscour) at 80°C (2times),

Run time = 15min
Aquachron/ Cold wash at 60°C(4times) at different ratio,

1st time – 4.4 Lt/kg
2nd time – 9.4 Lt/kg
3rd time – 4.4 Lt/kg
4th time – 8.0 Lt/kg
Bath drop and unload the fabric

6.6.3 Polyester/Cotton blend dyeing process for light shade (Purple):
Buyer: H&M
Fabric GSM: 230, 320
Fabric Composition: 60% BCI Cotton 35% Polyester 5% Elastane
Fabric Type: 2*2 Rib, Fleece
Color Depth: Light
Liquor Ratio: 1:7.50
Verinol P-E6(Dispersing agent) – 1.00g/l
Albatex AB-45(Buffer) – 1.50g/l
Citric Acid – 1.30 g/l
Albatex RI (Anti Reducing agent) – 4.00 g/l
Rucogen WBL(Detergent) – 0.70 g/l
Oxinol LLS (Anti creasing agent) – 1.00 g/l
Citric acid – 1.30 g/l (for achieving polyester dyeing pH)
Caustic Soda (alkali) – 4.00 (for cotton part scouring)
Hydrogen Peroxide (bleaching agent) – 3.00
Cellusoft Combi 9800L (Peroxide killer+ biopolishing) – 0.55%
Dyes items:
Polyester: Bemacron Red HP-BS 0.017250%
Bemacron Blue HP3R 0.012000%
Cotton: Bezaktiv Red S-3B 300% 0.019000%

Bezaktiv Blue SW 0.014305%
Sodium Sulphate – 10.00 g/l
Soda ash – 5.00 g/l
Oxinol CNW (soaping agent) – 2.00 g/l
Citric Acid (neutralization purpose) – 1.00 g/l
Process flow chart:

Water filling
Temperature raises to 40°C and auxiliary transfer,

(Dispersing agent, buffer, acid, anti reducing agent)

Check pH (3.8-4)
Polyester dyes dossing for 12min at 40°C
Steam up to 135°C and temperature gradient of 2.5C/min

Run time = 30min
Start cooling until 80°C reaches and then check the shade
Drain and recall
Pretreatment auxiliary transfer for cotton,

NaOH dosing time 5min, H2O2 dossing time 5min
Steam up to 90C (2.5°C/min), Run time = 30min

Start cooling until 70°C reaches then drain
Hot wash at 80C, 10Lt/kg
Acid dosing time 5min, Run time = 6min at 60°C
Normal wash at 60°C (5Lt/kg), Run time = 10min
Drain and recall
Check pH for cotton dyeing (6.50-7.0), if the pH is okay then,

enzyme transfer immediately and check H2O2% with indication paper
Add leveling agent, dosing time 3min, Run time 5min
Dye dosing for 25 min and Run time 20min
Salt dossing in 1st step transfer for 20 min, 2nd step Progressive 2 dosing and Run time 20 min
Soda ash dosing by steps (1st step Linear dossing 20’, 2nd step Progressive4 dossing, 40’)
Color Steam run at 60°C(Fixation process), cut samples and check shade in every 10min
interval, if shade match then drops the bath.
Drain and recall

Normal wash at 60°C,
(10Lt/kg)
Drain and recall
Acid dosing for 5mins,

Run time 6min at 60°C
Raise the temperature to 85C and add soaping chemicals

Run time 10min (carry this process for 2 times)
Hot wash at 85C, (10Lt/kg)

Run time = 10min
Aquachron/ Cold wash (2times) at in different ratio,

1st time – 9.0 Lt/kg at 60C
2nd time – 4.0 Lt/kg at 45C

6.6.4 Viscose Dyeing Process for Dark shade:
Buyer: C&A
Fabric GSM: 200
Fabric Composition: 95% Viscose 5% Elastane
Fabric Type: L S/J
Color Depth: Spectral(B/R)
Color Name: Purple Portion
Liquor Ratio: 1:5
Pretreatment Chemical:
RUCOGEN WBL(Detergent) – 1.00 g/l
Neosol BA-LD (sequestering agent) – 1.50 g/l
Albaflow FFC (penetrating agent) – 0.20 g/l
Soda ash (mild scouring agent) – 2.00 g/l
Citric acid (Neutralization purpose) – 0.80 g/l
Dyeing auxiliaries: Dye stuff items:
Sarabid MIP (leveling agent) – 2.00 g/l Bezaktiv Yellow S-3R 0.456148%
Neosol BA-LD (sequestering agent) – 1.50 g/l Bezaktiv Red S-2B 2.522000%
Albaflow FFC (penetrating agent) – 0.20 g/l Bezaktiv Blue SW 0.745251%
Sodium Sulphate – 60.00 g/l
Sodium Bi Carbonate (alkali) – 2.00 g/l
Soda ash (alkali) – 20 g/l
Citric acid – 1.50 g/l

Winscour RDC (soaping agent) – 1.50 g/l (2 times)
Oxinol CNW (soaping agent) – 0.75 g/l (2times)
Tubingal 9270 (softener) – 1.50%
Process flow chart:
Water filling
Fabric load at 40°C and Save L:R
Add mild scouring auxiliaries (Detergent, Alkali, Penetrating agent) and raise the temperature to
90°C with a gradient of 2.5°C/min, Run time = 20min
Start cooling till 60°C
Aquachron (normal wash) at 60°C, Run time 10min

Drain and recall
Acid (Citric acid) dosing for 5mins,

Run time 10mins at 60C
Drain and recall
Transfer dyeing auxiliaries like (leveling agent, sequestering agent, penetrating agent)
And check dyeing pH (6.5-7.0)
Temperature raises to 80°C with a gradient of 2°C/min

Dye dosing for 35 mins and
Run time 35 mins
Salt dosing in 2 steps (20’+20’) and Run time = 30mins
Migrate the temperature to 60°C and alkali dosing by steps

1st step – Sodium bi carbonate Linear dossing 20mins, R.T= 10mins
2nd step Soda ash progressive dosing – P2,45’ (Start of Color steam)
Temperature run at 60°C and continue color steam
Drain and recall
Hot wash 2 times at 90°C for 10mins (10Lt/kg)
Drain and recall
Acid (citric acid) and softener (Tubingal9270) dosing for 5mins,

attain pH around 5.5, Run time 45mins at 60°C

1st time – 8.0 Lt/kg at 60°C
2nd time – 4.0 Lt/kg at 45°C

6.6.5 100% Cotton Dyeing process for White shade:
Buyer: PUMA
Fabric GSM: 180
Fabric Composition: 100% Cotton
Color Depth: White
Liquor Ratio: 1:7
Pretreatment Recipe:
Prestogen-SB (Liquid) (Sequestering agent + stabilizer): 0.80 g/l
Caustic Soda (Alkali): 1.00 g/l
Soda ash (Alkali): 3.00 g/l
Threephor BX (OBA): 0.1%
Threephor BY-L: 0.1%
Citric Acid: 2.00 g/l (Achieve pH around 4.6-4.8)
Invezyme CAT (Peroxide killer): 0.80% (Acid enzyme)
Winscour RDC (soaping agent) – 1.50 g/l

Process flow chart:
Water filling
Temperature raises to 60°C and auxiliary transfer,

(Detergent, sequestering agent, anti-crease agent, stabilizer)
Dosing alkali (Caustic, Soda ash) in 2steps

1st step Caustic dosing for 5 mins
2nd step Soda ash dosing for 5mins
H2O2 dosing for 5mins

Raise the temperature to 100°C, (2.5°C/min)
Add OBA (Threephor BX, Threephor BY-L),

Run time = 60mins
Drain and recall
Drain and recall
Add citric acid and check pH (4.6-4.8)

Decrease the temperature to 55°C and then add enzyme,
Run time = 30mins
Run time = 60mins
Normal wash 60°C, (10Lt/kg)
Drain and fabric unload
6.6.6 Turquoise (Dark shade) Color dyeing on Cotton 1/1L Rib fabric:
Buyer: H&M
Fabric GSM: 240
Fabric Composition: 95% BCI Cotton 5% Elastane
Fabric Type: 1/1 RIB
Color Depth: Spectral (B/R)
Liquor Ratio: 1:7
Pretreatment Recipe:
PRESTOGEN-SB (Liquid) (Sequestering agent + Stabilizer): 0.80 g/l
Caustic Soda (Alkali): 0.80 g/l
Soda ash (Alkali): 3.00 g/l
Citric acid: 1.30 g/l

Cellusoft Combi 9800L (Peroxide killer+ biopolishing): 0.70%
Dyeing auxiliaries:
Bezaktiv Turquoise VG: 3.036354%
Bezaktiv Blue v-RN SPEC: 1.971403%
Sodium Sulphate: 60.00 g/l
Soda ash: 1.00 g/l
Soda ash: 19.00 g/l
Citric acid: 1.50 g/l
Lexex DL (Levelling agent): 2.50 g/l
Winscour RDC (soaping agent):1.50 g/l (2 times)
Oxinol CNW (soaping agent): 0.75 g/l
Process flow chart:
Water filling
Temperature raises to 60°C and Pretreatment auxiliary transfer,

(Detergent, sequestering agent, anti-crease agent, stabilizer)
Dosing alkali (Caustic, Soda ash) in 2 steps

1st step Caustic dosing for 3 mins
2nd step Soda ash dosing for 3 mins

H2O2 dosing for 6 mins
Raises the temperature to 100°C (2.5C/min),

Run time = 45 mins
Cooling till 80°C and proceed Hot wash (14Lt/kg)
Cooling till 80C and proceed Hot wash at (14Lt/kg)
Proceed Normal wash at 60°C, (8Lt/kg)
Drain and recall
Proceed Acid wash by adding citric acid at 60°C.

Run time = 6 mins
Add enzyme (combi) and later on check the H2O2 % by indicator paper,
Temperature = 60°C. Run time = 60 mins
Transfer dyeing auxiliaries
Dye (Hot brand) dosing for 25 mins,

Temperature = 80°C(2.5°C/min), Run time = 25 mins
Salt dosing in 2 steps (20’+20’) and Run time = 25mins

Cooling till 70°C and Soda dosing in 2 steps
1st step linear dosing, Run time 10mins
2nd step progress 2 Run time 45 mins
Run time = 20mins
Raises the temperature to 80°C at a gradient of 1.5°C/min,

Start of color steam
Shade check in every 10min interval
Drain and recall
Drain and recall

1st time – 9.0 Lt/kg at 60°C
2nd time – 4.0 Lt/kg at 45°C

Unit-7: FINISHING SECTION

7.1 Finishing:
Finishing is the final stage of fabric process. It decides the ultimate appearance and aesthetic
properties of textile materials. It is liable to change various physical and chemical properties of
textile material as per consumer needs.
Objectives
The primary objectives of textile finishing are given below,
1) To improve the attractiveness and service ability of the textile materials.

2) To change the surface characteristics of textile materials
3) To set the fabric, so that it can be maintained its shape and structure.
4) To increase the life and durability of the fabric.
5) To impart new characteristics on fabric like flame retardant or water proof finishes.
6) To facilitate the fabric hand feel.
7) Control the fabric GSM.
8) Make the end product comfortable for wearing.
There are basically two types of finishing.
7.1.1 Mechanical Finishing:

A method used on yarn and fabric to enhance the look, functionality, or hand feel of clothes is
referred to as mechanical finishing. Fabric's qualities, such as shine, softness, smoothness, and
residual shrinkage, can all be changed by mechanical finishing. Mechanical finishing, often known
as "dry finishing," alters both the material's qualities and appearance primarily through physical
(particularly mechanical) processes.
7.1.2 Chemical Finishing:

Chemical finishing, often known as "wet finishing," is the process of adding chemicals to textiles
in order to get a desired outcome. After chemical finishing, the material retains its original
appearance. For instance, a water-repellent coating, a flame-retardant finish etc.

7.2 Process Route:
Open line finish is the final process for open width fabrics. This process route is followed for body
fabric finish. On the other hand, tube line finish is followed for tubular fabrics (collar, cuff). It
increases the cutting efficiency in terms of marker making.
Finishing Section
Open Line Tube Line
Slitting De watering
Dryer/Stenter Dryer
Sueding or/& Brushing (if any) Tube Compactor
Shearing (if any) Final Inspection
Open Compactor Delivery
Final Inspection
Delivery

7.3 Layout of CCL finishing floor

7.4 Finishing machine specifications of CCL floor:
Machine Name Brand Name Origin Quantity
De-watering Santex/Santertech Plus Switzerland 1
Slitting Bianco Italy 6
Dryer Santex Switzerland 2
Stenter Monfort Montex Germany 6
Stenter Bruckner Germany 2
Open Compacting Santex Remar Switzerland 2
Open Compacting Lafer Italy 3
Tube Compacting Lafer Italy 1
Sueding Lafer Italy 1
Brushing Lafer Italy 2
Shearing Lafer Italy 1
7.4.1 Slitting machine:
It is one of the first machine used in finishing section after dyeing completion. It opens up the
tubular rope form fabric to open width fabric and pre dry the little bit before entering on
dryer/stenter. It has a wash-box which contains around 500L of wash liquor and there are two roller
containing nozzle which spray on the fabric and remove enzyme dusts. There is a padder unit
which remove the excess water from the fabric. Turntable and de-twister unit keep a sink and de-
twisting the rope form fabric. The basket unit opens up the tube form fabric.
Objective:
• Opens up the tubular form fabric

• Removes excess water from the fabric
• Removes enzyme dust particle from the fabric
• Prepares the fabric for next stage

Machine parts:
1) J-box
2) De-twister
3) Turn table
4) Basket
5) Dancy roller
6) Conveyor belt
7) Guide roller/free roller
8) Padder Figure 7.1: Slitting machine
9) Sensor roller
10) Monitor
11) Filter
12) Washing Box
13) Spreader roller
7.4.2 Dewatering/ Tubular squeezer machine:

As per name it is easily gettable that this machine will remove the excess water from the tube form
fabric. There is a turntable and de-twister unit which maintain a balance to de-twist the rope form
fabric. There are two padding unit in this machine. The pressure of the chemical padder is less than
the earlier padder which mainly removes water from the fabric. There is a shaping unit in this
machine which helps to increase the diameter of the fabric. The garments components like collar,
cuff, hem fabric (rib, terry) goes through this machine.
Objective:
• To remove the excess water from tubular fabric

• Wash the tubular fabric
• Apply required chemicals like softeners (Tubingle 9270, Albafix ECO) etc. on the fabric
as tube form fabric can’t be chemically process on stenter.

Machine parts:
1. Turn table
2. De-twister
3. Rubber roller
4. J-tray
5. Padder roller
6. Water box
Figure 7.2: Dewatering machine
7. Chemical box
8. Conveyor belt
9. Delivery roller
7.4.3 Stenter Machine:

It is the heart of all finishing machines. By this machine all problems that arise on fabric earlier
try to minimize here. There are few load cell in this machine which sense the tension between the
roller and maintain the speed of the rollers evenly. There is a curl remover on this machine which
remove curl from the knitted fabric edge and there is an endless chain which pass the fabric
throughout the machine at constant diameter that’s why GSM controlling result is excellent on
stenter. Pinning wheel control, the diameter and angle of fabric. Due to over feed roller the width
of the fabric reaches higher than the required dimension, for that reason the chain width has to be
lower than the fabric width.
Objective:
• To dry the fabric

• To control GSM of the fabric
• To control the shrinkage o the fabric
• To remove the fabric spirality and bow.
• To achieve the required shade.

Machine parts:
• Taker in roller
• Machine tensioner
• Load cell (2)
• Over feed roller
• Under feed roller
Figure 7.3: Stenter machine
• Curl remover
• Chain frame
• Pinning wheel
• Heat chamber
• Exhaust fan
• Cooling chamber
• Take up roller
Controlling Parameters:
Montex Stenter machine Bruckner Stenter machine

• Padder pressure: 0-10 bar • Padder pressure: 0-10 bar
• Over feed: (-10 to 60 %) • Over feed: (-10 to 80%)
• Dia setting: (60cm to 260cm) • Dia setting: (60cm to 260cm)
• No of chamber: 7 • No of chamber: 7
• Burner: 14 • Burner: 14
• Temperature: 130 to 180 C • Temperature: 130 to 210 C
• Under feed: (-10 to 10) % • Under feed: (-20 to 20) %
• Wheel pinning: (6 to 20) • Wheel pinning: (6 to 20)
7.4.4 Dryer Machine:

It is another important machine in finishing section specially used for light weighted fabrics. In
this machine shrinkage controlling is excellent compare to stenter as it doesn’t have endless chain
system.
Objective:
• To dry the fabric

• To control the GSM of the fabric

• To implement chemical if necessary.
• To achieve the required shade
Main parts:
1. Feed roller 8) Wheel pin

2. Spreader roller 9) Heat chamber (6)
3. Wash box 10) Exhaust fan
4. Chemical box 11) Take up roller
5. Over feed roller 12) Blower Figure 7.4: Dryer machine
6. Padding roller 13) Vibrator

7. Suction pipe 14) Teflon
7.4.5 Compactor machine:

There are two type of compactor one is Tubular width compactor (Lafer) and another one is open
width compactor known (Lafer/Santex compactor). In lafer machine there are two side in machine.
The front side is called stenter side and the rear side is called compacting side. The main
compacting action done by (cylinder + teflon r/r + felt). Santex branded compactor contains an
exceptional feature name sanforizing zone. This unit is used for special purpose like to increase
the hand feel, luster of the fabric and fin some case for shade lightening purpose.
Objective:
• To control the fabric shrinkage.

• To control the final diameter and GSM of the fabric.
• To increase the luster of the fabric.
• To increase smoothness of the fabric.
Figure 7.5: Compactor m/c
Main parts:
1) Feed roller 8) Wheel pin

2) Spreader roller 9) Cooling belt
3) Under feed 10) Delivery roller
4) Blanket (Felt) 11) Folding roller
5) Steam box 12) Tendem roller

6) Over feed 13) Stenter roller
7) Teflon.
7.4.6 Brushing/Raising machine:

Brushing is used after sueding to make the fabric level and clean. It eliminates loose fibers and
extraneous stuff that may have become entangled with the pile. Mainly brushing is done on the
back side of the fabric.
Objective:
• To raise the surface fibre of the fabric, keeping in mind of minimum level of fibre
migration, stress recovery and according to buyer’s swatch requirement.
• Imparting extra softness to the fabric surface.
Figure 7.6: Brushing machine
Main parts:
1) Taker in 6) Rear drag roller
2) Metal detector 7) Back drag roller
3) Spreader roller 8) Tension roller
4) Front drag roller 9) Dandy roller
5) Drum/ Cylinder (2) 10) Delivery roller
Here the drum contains 24 pile rollers. These pile rollers rotate in opposite direction and occurs
main brushing action. The first roller is named pile roller and the immediate next roller is
considered as counter pile roller.

7.4.7 Sueding Machine:
The sueding machine, which consists of a series of rollers covered with an abrasion surface such
as sandpaper or emery cloth, can generate a very moderate kind of raising on fabric. This is also
an mechanical finish which is done on the face side of the fabric. Guide rollers are used to bring
the sueded cloth into varied degrees of contact with the abrasive surface. The surface of the cloth
can be treated to feel like suede leather. Open fabrics as like Single Jersey, Lycra Single Jersey,
Pique, Plain Interlock, Terry, Fleece, 1×1 & 2×2 Rib can go through singeing process.
Purpose:
• To soft the fabric surface and enhance the hand feel.
Main parts:
1) Taker in 5) Rear drum roller

2) Tension roller 6) Back drag roller
3) Front drag roller 7) Dandy roller
4) Drum (1) 8) Delivery roller
Figure 7.7: Sueding machine

Unit: 8 QUALITY & INSPECTION

8.1 Quality Control:
Quality Control is a systematic procedure to ensure that the buyers are receiving their products and
services according to their requirement. To ensure buyers satisfaction, we have to go through a set
of procedures intended to ensure that a manufactured product or performed service adheres to a
defined set of quality criteria. Quality Control unit has a vital role on the development of any
industry. Quality control team works to withhold the guarantee given to the customers by Quality
Assurance team.
8.2 Objectives of Quality Control:

➢ To establish the desired quality standards which are acceptable to the customers.
➢ To discover flaws or variations in the raw materials and the manufacturing processes in
order to ensure smooth and uninterrupted production.
➢ To evaluate the methods and processes of production and suggest further improvements in
their functioning.
➢ To study and determine the extent of quality deviation in a product during the
manufacturing process.
➢ To analyse the root causes for each deviation and take necessary steps which are helpful
in achieving the desired quality of the product.
Quality Control process is managed in two sections.

• Online Quality Control
• Offline Quality Control
8.1.1 Online Quality Control: In the online quality control process, the fabric faults are identified
during the fabric manufacturing, dyeing or finishing process. If the fault is rectifiable, then
necessary steps are taken during the production process. Otherwise the problem is reported to the
QC officers. During online quality control process, shade matching is a sensitive issue. The
operators assess the shade of the fabric after a particular time from loading to compacting to ensure
the required color.

8.1.2 Offline Quality Control: In the offline quality control process, the fabric is assessed after all
the procedures are completed. If any problem is identified in offline inspection, then it gets
investigated to find out in which department the problem was created. Then the officers take
necessary steps to solve it.
Chart of Offline Quality Control
Offline Quality Control
Visual Faults Diameter/GSM Test Report Documentation Final Shade

Checking
Mail
Stock
Problematic
Report
Replacement
Report
GSM Board
Job Card
Inspection
Test Result
8.3 Visual Faults mainly consists of -

Spinning:
✓ Slub
✓ Thick and Thin places
✓ Yarn contamination
Knitting:
✓ Sinker Mark
✓ Needle Line
✓ Holes
✓ Drop Needle
✓ Oil Spot

Dyeing:
✓ Dyeing Spot
✓ Shade Uneven
✓ Crease
✓ Softner Spot
✓ Soda Spot
Finishing:
✓ Finishing Hole
✓ De Watering Mark
✓ Padder Crease Mark

8.4 Process Flow Chart of Quality Control:
Production Process (Dyeing/Finishing)
Online Quality Check
OK Not OK
Quality Assurance Department (QAD)
Offline Quality Check
Department wise problem Diameter Shade

Test Report
(Spinning,Knitting,Dyeing, /GSM Matching
Finishing)
OK Commercially Not OK
OK
Problematic
Packing Delivery
Store Delivery to Garments

8.5 Inspection System for Finished Fabric:
Inspection: Inspection can be defined as measuring, examining, testing, gauging one or more
characteristics of a product on source comparing these with specific requirements to determine
conformity. The purpose of fabric inspection is to determine the quality and acceptability for
garments.
DBL Group uses 4 Point inspection system for the inspection of finished fabric.
After finishing, the fabrics are folded and sent to quality control
department. Then the fabric is inserted in the Comatex fabric
inspection machine. The machine runs in a predetermined speed
and the fabric passes through a light surface. The operator
continuously monitors the faults in the fabric. All the faults will
be recorded and graded using 4 point inspection system and sent
to the officers through a test report. Then the officer decides in
which department the problem was created. Figure 8.1: COMATEX Inspection Machine
8.5.1 4-Point Inspection System:
FAULTY FABRIC LENGTH PENALTY

UP TO 3 INCH 1 point
ABOVE 3 INCH TO 6 INCH 2 point
ABOVE 6 INCH TO 9 INCH 3 point
ABOVE 9 INCH 4 point
ALL HOLES 4 point
Formula for 4 point system calculation:

𝑇𝑜𝑡𝑎𝑙 𝑃𝑜𝑖𝑛𝑡𝑠 𝑠𝑐𝑜𝑟𝑒𝑑 𝑖𝑛 𝑡ℎ𝑒 𝑟𝑜𝑙𝑙 ×36 ×100
Points per 100 square yards =
𝐼𝑛𝑠𝑝𝑒𝑐𝑡𝑒𝑑 𝑟𝑜𝑙𝑙 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ (𝑌𝑎𝑟𝑑𝑠) ×𝐹𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐 𝑤𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ (𝐼𝑛𝑐ℎ)
Grade of Faults according to points:
Points/Area Grade
0-25 points/100 sq. yards A
25-40 points/100 sq. yards B

40-60 points/100 sq. yards C
More than 60 points/100 sq. yards Reject
8.6 Different Types of Faults in Quality Control:
Yarn Contamination Hole Oil Spot
Star Mark Thick and Thin Dye Spot
Soda Spot Yarn Missing Shade Uneven
Soda spot Yarn missing Shade uneven

Unit: 9 TEXTILE TESTING SERVICE
LIMITED (TTSL)

9.1 Textile Testing Service Limited (TTSL):
The Quality assurance Department is assigned to maintain consistently uniform quality of the
material in process and various stages of its manufacturing. To support quality and maintain the
aesthetic property of any product it is required to examine the final product through some identical
tests given by buyers. These tests are followed by the international methods given by the buyers
to support the quality of the products. DBL group holds its own testing Lab. This lab is certified
internationally and reliable to buyers.
9.2 Objectives of TTSL:

➢ To achieving a level of excellence, unwavering accuracy, and timely delivery of test reports
and services.
➢ To maintain quality by identical tests given by buyers.
➢ To ensure quality production.
9.3 TTSL mainly consists of three departments and those are-

• Physical Lab
• Chemical Lab
• Washing Lab
9.3.1 Washing Lab:

It’s basically consist of the machineries used for washing purpose and the tests done here to
measure the properties related to wash such as dimensional stability, some colour fastness test etc.
Mostly performed tests in washing lab-
❖ Colour fastness to Wash

❖ Colour fastness to Rubbing
Colour fastness to Wash Test:
Test method: ISO 105 C06
Required Chemicals and Materials:
• Sample size – 10cm × 4cm

• Multifibre fabric – 10cm × 4cm
• ECE detergent – 4g/l
• Sodium Perborate (NaBO3.4H2O) – 1g/l
• Steel balls (25 pieces )
• Normal water
Required Instruments:
Figure 9.1: Gyrowash
1. Gyrowash
2. Scissor
3. Stitch machine
Procedure:
➢ Sample and multifibre fabric were cut at 10 cm × 4 cm and then stitched.

➢ ECE detergent & Sodium per borate was taken with the sample.
➢ The sample was kept in 60°𝐶 for 30 minutes in Gyro Wash Machine.
➢ The sample was rinsed twice with cold water.
➢ The fabric was dried by hanging or by dryer.
Result: The changes of shade and staining was measured by Grey scale for colour change and
colour staining.
Colour fastness to Rubbing:
Test method: ISO 105 X12
Required materials:
• Sample size – 14cm × 5cm

• Crocking cloth size – 5cm × 5cm
• Distilled water
Figure 9.2: Crockmeter

Required Equipment:
1. Crockmeter
2. Dropper
Procedure: Two types of rubbing are done and those are-
1) Dry Rubbing Process:

➢ The coloured specimen under test is mounted tightly with the help of a clamp on the
track line of the crockmeter.
➢ The rubbing cloth is mounted tightly on the rubbing finger (1.6 cm diameter) with the
help of a clip.
➢ At a rate of one cycle per second, to and fro in a straight line, the instrument is run only
for 10 seconds for 10 complete to and fro movement of the rubbing finger (10 cycles),
where the specimen is rubbed with a downward force of 9N.
2) Wet Rubbing Process:
The rubbing cloth is soaked with distilled water with 100% pick-up. Then the above
process and parameters were followed.
Result: The staining of the rubbed cloth (both dry and wet) was assessed by the Grey scale for
staining.
9.3.2 Physical Lab:

Tests performed in Physical lab-
❖ Pilling and Abrasion test

❖ Bursting Strength test
❖ Tensile strength test
❖ Tear strength test
❖ Button Impact test
❖ Yarn Twist test

9.3.2.1 Machine Specifications:
Machine name Brand name Origin Machine Purpose

Quantity
Martindale Abrasion and James H. Heal UK 2 Pilling and
Pilling Tester Abrasion test
ICI Pilling Tester James H. Heal UK 2 Pilling test
Button Impact Tester SDL ATLAS UK 1 Button Impact test
Titan Universal Strength James H. Heal UK 1 Tensile Strength

Tester test
Bursting Strength Tester James H. Heal UK 1 Bursting Strength
test
Tearing Strength Tester SDL ATLAS UK 1 Tear Strength test
Random Tumble Pilling James H. Heal UK 2 Pilling test

Tester
Twist Tester SDL ATLAS UK 1 Determination of
Yarn twist
9.3.2.1.1 Martindale Abrasion and Pilling Tester:

Test method: ISO 12945-2 (Pilling test)
• Before testing, the sample must be conditioning
(20°𝐶 & 𝑅𝐻 65%) for 16 hours.
• The sample size was 140mm dia.
• Felt size was 90mm dia (upper) and 140mm dia (lower)
respectively.
• From one respective batch 3 sets of sample should be tested. Figure 9.3: Martindale
• Rub cycle was in between 1000-5000 according to buyer Abrasion & Pilling Tester
requirement.

9.3.2.1.2 ICI Pilling Tester/Box:
Test method: ISO 12945-1
• Before testing, the sample must be conditioning for 16 hours.

• The sample size was 125mm × 125mm.
• Machine running at 60 rpm.
• Maximum cycle was 14400. Figure 9.4: ICI Pilling Box
• Each box contains 4 samples (2 lengthwise and 2 widthwise).
9.3.2.1.3 Random Tumble Pilling Tester:

Test method: ASTM D3512:2016
• In this machine, an additional sliver was given with the tested
sample.
• Sliver was approximately 4302tex.
• Machine running at 1200 rpm.
• Running time was 30min/1hr according to buyer requirement. Figure 9.5: Random Tumble
Pilling Tester
9.3.2.1.4 Titan Universal Strength Tester:

• The sample must be conditioning for 20 hours before sample

preparation.
• After the sample preparation another 4 hours conditioning was
done.
• The sample size was (250-300) mm × 50mm.
• Five samples were taken lengthwise and widthwise respectively. Figure 9.6: Titan Universal
Strength Tester
• One sample going through 5 cycle and load varies according to
buyer requirement.

9.3.2.1.5 Bursting Strength Tester:
• Before testing, the sample must be conditioning for 4 hours.

• No sample preparation is needed for this test.
• Sample exposed area was according to diaphragm area.
• Pneumatic pressure was applied for this test.
Figure 9.7: Bursting
• Standard time to burst was 20±5 sec. Strength Tester
9.3.3 Chemical Lab:

Tests performed in Chemical lab-
❖ Colour fastness to Water

❖ Colour fastness to Sea water
❖ Colour fastness to Perspiration
❖ Colour fastness to Light
❖ pH of the Fabric
❖ Fibre identification/analysis

9.3.3.1 Machine Specifications:
Machine name Brand name Origin Machine Purpose
Quantity
Incubator James H. Heal UK 2 For Perspiration/Water
fastness test
Electric oven Binder USA 1 Drying
Orbital shaker Digisystem Taiwan 2 For pH check and fiber

analysis
pH meter JENWAY UK 2 pH check
Light and Weather fastness James H. Heal UK 1 Light fastness test

tester
Digital microscope Nikon Japan 2 Fiber analysis
Magnetic stirrer SDL ATLAS UK 1 Chemical mixing
Spray rating tester James H. Heal UK 1 Water repellency test
Colour Fastness to Cold Water Test:
Test method: ISO 105 E01
Test specimen: Sample fabric – 10cm × 4cm; Multifibre fabric – 10cm × 4cm
Testing solution: Water was taken as required.
Procedure:
➢ The composite specimen was put in a dish (2 specimen of a sample).

➢ Water was taken in the dish as required.
➢ The specimen was dipped for 30 minutes.
➢ A glass plate was placed on the composite specimen for 15 minutes at room temperature.
➢ Excess solution was poured off.

➢ Composite specimen with glass plate was placed into the incubator at (37±2)0C for 4 hours
with 12.5 kpa pressure.
➢ The specimen was dried at temperature ≤60°𝐶.
Result: Change of shade and staining is measured by Grey scale

for colour change and Grey scale for colour staining.
Colour fastness to Perspiration Test:
Test method: ISO 105 E04
Test specimen: Sample fabric – 10cm × 4cm; Multifibre fabric

Figure 1.8: Perspirometer
– 10cm × 4cm
Testing solution:
Chemicals Acidic perspiration Alkaline perspiration
solution solution
L-histidine mono hydrochloride 0.5 g/l 0.5 g/l

monohydrate (C6H9O2N3.HCl.H2O)
Di-sodium hydrogen orthophosphate 2.2 g/l 2.5 g/l

dihydrate (Na2HPO4.2H2O)
Sodium chloride (NaCl) 5 g/l 5 g/l
pH 5.5 8.0
Procedure:
➢ The composite specimen was put in a dish (2 specimen of a sample).
➢ Solutions (Acidic and Alkaline) were taken in the two dishes. Here, M: L was taken 1:20.
➢ The specimen was put for 30 minutes.
➢ A glass plate was placed on the composite specimen for 15 minutes at room temperature.
➢ Excess solution was poured off.
➢ Composite specimen and glass plate were placed into the incubator at (37±2)0C for 4 hours
with 12.5 kpa pressure.
➢ The specimen was dried at temperature ≤60°C.
Result: Change of shade and staining is measured by Grey scale for colour change and Grey scale
for colour staining.

Unit-10: UTILITY

10.1 Domain of utility
Utility services support industrial processes. An effective workforce, well-maintained equipment,
and appropriate raw materials are required to produce a high-quality final product. The term "utility
sector" designates a group of businesses that offer necessities like water, sewage services, power,
dams, and natural gas. Utilities are frequently viewed as long-term investments by investors who
utilize them to add dependable income to their portfolios. The global energy and utilities
community, which is defined as people and organizations involved in the geospatial aspects of
planning, delivering, operating, ensuring reliability, and ongoing management of electric, gas, oil,
and water services globally, will be the focus of the Energy & Utilities Domain Working Group.
10.2 Functions of utility

1) Utility provides the required power supply by Generator.
2) Utility provides the required water by Pump.
3) Required steam is supplied from Boiler.
4) Utility ensures the compressed air by vacuum planning system.
5) It gives the Fuel and Gas supply.
6) It gives the proper workshop facilities.
10.3 Utility services

Utility, which is closely tied to the three Ms. It is essential to maximizing both productivity and
profit. Any production unit needs uninterrupted and necessary utility services to operate efficiently.
Being a large project, DBL Group naturally has a substantial project of utilities service. The
utilities include:
• Electricity Supply
• Water Supply
• Steam Supply
• Compressed Air supply

10.3.1 Electricity:
Electricity is one of the most vital things to run the machine in a textile industry. It is the main
power source for running a productive machine. “Mymun Complex” is the most invested and
biggest productive area in the DBL Group. It has eight generators for power supply to ensure
uninterrupted dyeing, printing, finishing, washing etc. operation and help to fulfill their target
production. There are two types of generators,
➢ 10.3.1.1 Gas Generator: DBL group has total 11 gas generator machine and from these 21
Mw of power can be generated. BanglaCAT is the brand name of these generator. Primarily
the demand of electricity is fulfilled by these gas generators. If its not possible then they
have to look for other sources like REB and Diesel generators.
Figure 10.1: Gas generator
➢ 10.3.1.2 Diesel generators: Mymun complex has three diesel generators. One diesel
generator can produce or supply 2.5MW/hour electricity. JENBACHER branded diesel
generators are used there.
Figure 10.2: Diesel generator

➢ 10.3.1.3 REB: The electric power grid capacity is 10 MW.
Figure 10.3: Electric power grid
Power consumption pattern:
Total Mymun Complex power demand is around = (8.5MW - 10MW) per day.
CCL + DB TEX floor demand = 7 MW per day.
Total power generator from 14 machine around = 28 MW (if all are running at a time)
The power demand are generally fulfilled in these sequence,
Gas (primary source) REB (secondary source) Diesel (final source)
10.3.2 Steam supply:

In this modern technology of textile industries, the supply of steam to every productive machine
is necessary. The efficient and effective production is mostly depending on proper supply of steam
at every required points. This supplied steam is produced from Boiler in factory. Boiler processed
natural gases and produced highly heated steam. This steam is supplied to every production section
over the insulated pipe line.
In any type of textile industries there are different types of boilers are available. But the DBL
Group used boilers are-
1. Gas Boiler
2. Thermal Boiler
3. Exhaust Boiler

Total Mymun Complex capacity of boiler 100 ton/hour.
Cochran Gas Boiler (dual

Thermal boiler Exhaustion boiler
Burner m/c)
Figure 10.4
Source of water in Boiler: Soft water from water treatment plant are used in this fire tube Boiler.
All of the boilers are connected with water pipe line to the water treatment plant. Chemically soft
water smoothly supplied to these boilers for proper steam generation.
Chemicals used:
1. Protector 2001 (scale inhibitor for boiler).
2. Eraser 1001 (water scale inhibitor).
3. BM solution (scale inhibitor for boiler)
Chiller:
It reduces the temperature of the water. These are mostly required for all the machines control
panel for protective purpose. There are 2 chillers in Mymun complex and each chiller have 85
ton/hour capacity.
10.3.3 Compressed Air Supply:

Air Compressor is generally used to supply the compressed air to the required place. This
compressor is a machine which converts the power into potential energy stored in pressurized air.

On the other hand, it forces more and more air into a tank and increased the air pressure. In Mymun
Complex of DBL Group, there are 12 air compressors to produced compressed air and supply to
required place in time. All of the compressors are highly capable tor store air and make high
pressure. Compressed air is used for cleaning machine parts, dusts from the fabrics and also for
different purposes.
Figure 10.5: Air compressor
10.3.4 Gas Supply:

The source of Gas is TITAS GAS LTD which is actually natural gas. The gas is supplied to gas
generator or different section (Boiler- for heating water) from the main line of the TITAS GAS
LTD.

Unit-11: MAINTENANCE

Unit-12: WTP & ETP

12.1 Water treatment plant (WTP):
Mymun Complex has own water supply source. There are stored huge amount of required water
in several water tank as well as underground water house. These waters are lifted from deep tube
well by submersible pump and rain water is also collected. This all over system is called the Water
Treatment Plant.
Water Softening Method – “Base Exchange Process”
Depth of each pump: 700ft -1000ft (Raw water tank)
Production capacity: (of deep tube well)
Required water – Average less than 200 m3/hr.
Hardness of unprocessed water: 80-130 ppm
Hardness of processed water: 0-5 ppm
There are three different function vessels used for hardness reduction –
Vessel no 1: Multigrade filter (MGF)
Vessel no 2: Activated carbon filter (ACF)
Vessel no 3: Softener filter (SF)
Total project cost: 143 lacs

Hard Soft
Water Water
Hard water storage tank Soft water storage tank
Sodium
Chloride
vessel
Multigrade Activated Resin filter

filter unit carbon (zeolite)
filterunit unit
Water Treatment Plant (WTP) is essential for any dyeing/printing factory. There are two deep tube
wells by the sides of two treatment plants for MTL, HTL, DB-Tex and CCL. The process flow of
WTP is given above and functions of different sections are given below-
1. Hard water storage tank: Raw water is stored here extracted from deep into the earth and
supplied to multigrade filter unit.
2. Multigrade filter unit: The large size plastic, iron that means solid content are removed in the
multigrade filter unit.
3. Activated carbon filter unit: Activated carbon unit to remove chlorine that means bad smell
and also carbon. It also removes bad color.
4. Resin filter unit: softener unit from the activated carbon unit at the presence of cationic resin
(Zeolite) is reacted with water to remove the hardness of water.

12.2 Effluent treatment plant (ETP):
Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP) is a plant by which waste water is treated in order to make the
waste water environmentally friendly. Now a days ETP is a must for environmental and sustainable
issues. Effluent treatment plant makes sure that water releases from Mymun Complex meets
Bangladesh Environmental Association water quality standard. It is very important & essential to
keep the environment pollution free. Government, Environmental Association and foreign buyers
are creating pressure to set ETP in every textile industry. So to ensure the proper growth of textile
sector and pollution free environment every textile industries have to set up an ETP. In Mymun
complex there are two biological ETP.
12.3 Biological treatment plant:

This process is mainly built up by using micro-organism i.e., Bacteria (Amoeba & Protozoa).
Bacteria are of two types; one is Anaerobic & Aerobic. First one is hazardous for our environment
and second one is friendly for our environment. In here Bacteria break the bond of harmful
chemical by enzyme secretion. As a result, harmful chemical converted into less hazardous sludge.
The sludge produced by this process is also used as different functions like fertilizer, fuel in the
brick field and cement industries.
There are 2 ETP in DBL. Details are given below-
Parameter ETP-1 ETP-2

Max. Capacity 4000 m3 /day 7500 m3 /day
Type Biological Biological
Daily Load 3000 m3 /day 5000 m3 /day
Retention Time 48 hours 48 hours
12.4 Chemicals Required for Biological ETP and function:

➢ 98% H2SO4 - To maintain pH of the treatment water.
➢ Polyelectrolyte – used for coagulation-flocculation purpose and in the
conditioning/thickening of the sludge line.

➢ Decoloring agent - Cationic Polymeric Compounds are used which acts like decolorant,
COD remover as well.
➢ Anti – foaming agent - To prevent foam formation in effluent.
➢ Sodium hypochlorite – for disinfecting purpose.
➢ Aerobic bacteria - To remove organic impurities.
➢ Nitrogen & Phosphorus - nutrients for micro-organism
12.5 Quality In-let & Out-let Effluent :
In-let Out-let Standard (Discharge to

Parameter Effluent Effluent inland surface water)
135 m3
Flow /hr 135 m3/hr 160 m3 /hr
345
BOD ppm 20-30 ppm 50 ppm
300-350
COD ppm 120-150 ppm 200 ppm
1800-2000
TDS 2080 ppm ppm 2100 ppm
TSS 291 ppm 20-50 ppm 150 ppm

DO 0.5 ppm 4.6 ppm 4.5-8 ppm
pH 6-9 7 6-9 ppm
Temperatur
38°C 33°C 40°C
e

12.6 ETP Flow diagram (Color City limited)

12.7 Description of ETP Units:
➢ Raw Effluent Tank: All effluent from different section is collected in this tank.
➢ Cooling Unit: From raw effluent tank, raw effluent is transferred to cooling tank by
drain. In this unit there are many pipes of small dia. At each pipe many spraying unit
are present through which water.
➢ Collection Sump Tank: From cooling unit, effluent is transferred to collection sump
tank. In this tank, all effluent is collected to keep effluent to the plant when required.
➢ Screening Unit: From collection sump tank effluent is transferred to the screening unit
by under drain. In this unit foreign materials are filtered from effluent when it passes
through filter.
➢ Storage & Homogenization Tank: In this tank air is feed to mix up the effluent to
uniform color, pH and other characteristics of effluent of different section. Also DO is
increased.
➢ Neutralization Tank: Effluent is transferred to the neutralization tank from
equalization tank through under hole. H2SO4 is dosed automatically by pump. pH of
effluent reach to 7-8.
➢ Distribution Tank: From neutralization unit effluent is transferred to distribution unit
by pump. At this unit heavy weight effluent is placed lower and light weight effluent is
placed upper layer. In this unit antifoaming agent is dosed manually to reduce foam
formation.
➢ Biological Oxidation Tank: From distribution unit light weight effluent is transferred
to the biological oxidation tank by overflow. In this unit flow of effluent is controlled
by large fan situated at the different section of tank bacteria are supplied manually.
Effluent is oxygenated to encourage the growth of bacteria feed on organic impurities
of effluent and convert them to CO2 and oxidized compounds N2, S, P and other
elements.
➢ Sedimentation Feeding Tank: From biological oxidation tank, the effluent which
contains fewer amounts of impurities transferred to sedimentation feeding tank.
Quaternary cationic polymeric compound is dosed which is effective in discoloring,
flocculating and removing COD.

➢ Sedimentation or Clarifier: From feeding tank flocculated effluent is transferred to
clarifiers by under hole where flocculated materials are sediment and clear treated
water is out by overflow.
➢ Sludge Recirculation Pit: Under the clarifier flocculated effluent are transferred to
sludge recirculation pit. From this pit comparatively light weight effluent from upper
layer is transferred to distribution unit for reprocessing and comparatively heavy weight
effluent from lower layer are transferred to sludge thickener tank.
➢ Sludge Thickening Tank: Poly electrolyte is fed to the tank manually to make the
agglomerated be gummy for easy deposition below the surface of water.
➢ Sludge Management System: When predetermined amount of sludge is deposited, the
sludge is collected by collection pipe

Screening unit Collection sump tank Lifting Pump
Biological oxidation tank Homogeneous tank Neutralization tank
Cooling tank Sedimentation or clarifier
Figure:12.1 Mechanisms related to ETP

12.7.1 Sludge management system includes:
1. Sludge Collection Bed: It is a bed of sand and stone where sludge is stored and waste
water sludge is filtrated through sand and stone and this waste water again transferred to
collection sump tank for reprocessing.
2. Sludge Drying Bed: Dried sludge is stored here.
3. Sludge Dumping: Dried sludge is dumped according to the order of authority concerning
the environment.
Filter press Sludge recirculation pit Sludge thickening tank
Sludge dumping area Sludge drying area
Figure 12.2: Mechanisms related to Sludge Management

Unit-13: COMPLIANCE, CSR &
SUSTAINIBILITY PRACTICE

13.1 Compliance
DBL group practices OECD Principle which is one of the best principles among the internationally
recognized corporate governance frameworks. This system is based on four basic structures.
Accountability, Responsibility, Fairness and Transparency.
13.2 Corporate and social responsibilities (CSR)

13.2.1 Children Education Support Initiative
Children’s Education Support Allowance (CESA) sponsored the education of two children of each
employee whose salary is below BDT 25000. DBL Group has also taken the initiatives through
CESI to provide career counseling program for students passed HSC.
13.2.2 Special Policy for Women worker
In partnership with amfori and the CSR Centre, DBL Group has signed an agreement for the
Shobola project. The project aims to empower female workers to take up supervisory positions.
“Mothers@Work” program sponsored by BRAC is providing the female workers different
facilities who have infants with them.
13.2.3 Canteen, Medical & Day Care Facilities
DBL has only one canteen for workers and staffs. There is also a medical center for the workers
and there are also extra facilities for female workers. For working women having children are
given day care facilities for their children. So female workers can worker can keep their children
safe while they are working.
13.2.4 Disability Inclusion Program

DBL Group is a partner of Center for Disability in Development (CDD) to include disable people
in their workforce. The Disability Inclusion Program is expanding with the goal of having 1% of
workforce involving individuals with various impairments. Up-to June 2022 DBL recruited 300
Persons with Disabilities (PWD).
13.2.5 Occupational Health and Safety (OHS)

Implemented by the GIZ, one of DBL Group’s dyeing units acquired this certification in April
2016. OHSAS was chosen to further reduce illness, improved risk management, a stronger safety
culture, better hazard awareness, increase awareness about health and safety, and establish a health
and safety management system within the factory.

13.2.6 Fire safety policies
In case of any fire accident, the company has 1 fire exit in each of the floor of the factory. DBL
maintains availability of fire extinguisher in each section and stair areas.
13.2.7 DBL pharmacy

Dbl group has on-site pharmacy open for all employees and their families to guarantee sound
health. Medicine of all kinds is offered at discounted rates. In 2021-22, a total of $ $904,593 worth
of medicines were sold in the 8 pharmacies of all the complexes.
13.2.8 Bandhan Fair Price Shop

Since 2008, Bandhan has sought to lower employees' monthly expenses, protect them from
economic turbulence, and improve their disposable income. Any employee of DBL can buy items
through zero-cash and on-credit transaction and the bills are simply adjusted with their salaries at
the end of the month. Female workers can purchase sanitary napkins from Bandhan at a subsidized
price of 13 cents, which is 71% cheaper than the market price.
13.3 Sustainability 5.0

13.3.1 DBL Sustainability Pillars
DBL has a Five-Pillar Sustainability Strategy, which is referred to as Sustainability 5.0. The pillars
include People, Process, Product, Community, and Environment: thus, integrating a holistic
approach towards Social and Environmental Sustainability
13.3.2 Environment Management

The Environmental Management Department has been established by DBL Group as a distinct
team inside the compliance division to help decrease environmental footprint. There are also
established Standard Environmental policies and Environmental Health and Safety (EHS) policies;

Energy
Noise Water
Biodiversity Waste
GHG ODS and others
Waste
13.3.3 Sustainable Projects:

13.3.3.1 Stenter machine & Eco Booster
Stenter machines used in Dbl floor has an additional Eco Booster unit, It is a cutting-edge heat
recovery device that cleans itself automatically. Additionally, the Eco Booster consumes less water
when cleaning. It saves up to 35% of energy cost.
13.3.3.2 Exhaust Gas Boilers (EGBs)

DBL uses Exhaust Gas Boilers (EGBs), a type of heat recovery technology, to utilize the heat
emitted from the generators. Instead of using excess fuel, heat is captured from the generator
exhausts and utilized to heat the boilers. Different complexes have installed numerous boilers. Up
to 330 million normal cubic meters of natural gas were saved annually by these EGBs.
13.3.3.3 Rainwater Harvesting Plant

Here the rain water is collected from the whole complex and stored in a chamber. Then from that
chamber the water go through multi grade filter system and gets ready for production use. The
Rainwater Harvesting Plant saved 112,657 cubic meters of groundwater till 2022.

13.3.3.4 Water Efficient Dyeing Machine
A modern water-efficient machine utilized in the dyeing process helps to significantly reduce water
use. With these new ACME machines, we are saving up to 15 liters of water when compared to
the older ones by dyeing one kilogram of fabric with only 40 liters of water. Savings on steam,
chemicals, and wastewater treatment are also included in the advantages.
13.3.3.5 Enzyme Dust Cleaner

In Dbl dyeing and finishing procedures, enzymes are utilized in place of hazardous chemicals
because they are biodegradable and represent less of a risk to the environment. Micro-dusts are
created when enzymes are used in the dyeing process. For cleaning, a sizable volume of water is
needed. Mymun Complex use enzyme dust cleaner chemicals instead of just water, which reduces
water use by at least 5 liters per kilogram.
13.3.3.6 Using skylight roofs

Using transparent panels on the celling to utilize daylight instead of turning on unnecessary lights
in the area thus saving energy.
13.3.3.7 Synchronized power sources

This makes optimal choice of using different types of fuel sources prioritizing natural gas at first,
followed by purchased electricity, and finally diesel.

Unit-14: CONCLUSION

14.1 Conclusion:
Industrial Training offers us the opportunity to co-relate our theoretical knowledge with the
industrial practice. It gives us the actual knowledge about man, machine, material, methods,
process, operation and present market situation.
In our 8 weeks long industrial training, we have learnt a lot about Mymun complex as well as
textile manufacturing plant. The knowledge we gathered about the industrial environment and
processes can help us in our future. Throughout our training period, we have also observed the
reasons for DBL Group being the leading organization in the textile sector of Bangladesh.
Despite of having a highly skilled workforce, DBL group is managing their technical works
through software. This is the reason for their high efficiency and excellent management in the
factory. They practice advance technologies in their factories and their latest machineries helps
them to survive in the competitive global textile sector.
We also had some difficulties during the internship period. The processes in the machines are
always running. We could not observe the machine parts properly. We could not collect the
processes which are confidential to the company.
This internship helped us to understand the practical works related to our theoretical study. We
hope that, this industrial training will facilitate us to improve our knowledge about textile processes
related to wet processing industry. We believe with all these, the experience of the industrial
attachment training will help our future life as a Textile Engineer.

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DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

Course No.: Tex 500

Industrial Training Report on

Mymun complex, DBL Group

Ahsanullah University of Science and Technology

Industrial Training Report on Mymun Complex (DBL Group) 1|Page

Industrial Training Report on Mymun Complex (DBL Group) 2|Page

Industrial Training Report on Mymun Complex (DBL Group) 3|Page

Industrial Training Report on Mymun Complex (DBL Group) 4|Page

Industrial Training Report on Mymun Complex (DBL Group) 5|Page

Industrial Training Report on Mymun Complex (DBL Group) 6|Page

• To develop communication, interpersonal and technical skills.

• To gather the knowledge about the functions of an organization.

Industrial Training Report on Mymun Complex (DBL Group) 7|Page

Industrial Training Report on Mymun Complex (DBL Group) 8|Page

2.1 Name of the Organization

2.2 Overview of the Organization

Industrial Training Report on Mymun Complex (DBL Group) 9|Page

M.A.Jabbar (Managing Director)

M.A.Quader (Deputy Manager & Group CEO)

2.4 Location and Contact Information

Industrial Training Report on Mymun Complex (DBL Group) 10 | P a g e

Location and Contact Information of Corporate Office-

Capita South Avenue Tower, 6th

Gulshan 1, Dhaka 1212,

Fig 2.2: Location of Corporate Office from AUST

Fig2.3: Mymun Complex

Industrial Training Report on Mymun Complex (DBL Group) 11 | P a g e

Integrity Passion Adaptability Care Excellence

Industrial Training Report on Mymun Complex (DBL Group) 12 | P a g e

Spinning • Matin Spinning Mills Ltd

Fabric printing • DB Tex Ltd

• Mymun Textiles Ltd

Garments Printing • Thanbee Print World Ltd

Packaging • Parkway Packaging and Printing Ltd

Distribution • DBL Distribution Ltd

• DBL Telecom Ltd

Sports • DBL Sports Ltd

Dredging • DBL Dredging Ltd

Pharmaceuticals • DBL Pharmaceuticals Ltd

Industrial Training Report on Mymun Complex (DBL Group) 13 | P a g e

2.8 Different Departments of Mymun Complex

• Planning and Control

Industrial Training Report on Mymun Complex (DBL Group) 14 | P a g e

Industrial Training Report on Mymun Complex (DBL Group) 15 | P a g e

OHSAS 18001:2007 standard

Global Organic Textile Standard

Organic Content Standard (OCS-IN)

Oeko-Tex Standard 100

Global Recycled Standard (GRS)

Industrial Training Report on Mymun Complex (DBL Group) 16 | P a g e

Industrial Training Report on Mymun Complex (DBL Group) 17 | P a g e

2. Single Lacoste, 100% pique cotton

3. 100% Polyester, Slub, Single Jersey

4. 100% Cotton, 200 GSM, Single Jersey

5. CVC 60/40, Fleece fabric

6. Single Jersey, 95% cotton & 5% lycra

7. CVC 65/35, Pique

8. 100% cotton, 2×2 rib

9. CVC 60/40, 1×1 rib

10. 100% cotton, 120 GSM, Single Jersey

12. PC 65/35, Fleece fabric

13. 100% cotton, lycra rib

14. CVC 60/40, slub, 220 GSM