Taiwan Panorama 2024 Feb

FEB.
2024 中英文國外版
酒杯裡的台灣風土
酒杯裡的
台灣風土
中華民國一一三年二月
A Glass of Good Cheer

—Taiwan’s Flourishing
Drinks Industry
．零到無限的釀造魔術秀．台灣奇「玉」記
第四九卷第二期
．百百款的台灣泡麵．海廢新演繹
Vol. 49 No. 2 February 2024

CHINESE–ENGLISH BILINGUAL MONTHLY ISSN 1991-525X
記憶深澳岬角象鼻岩
Remembering Elephant
Trunk Rock
圖／文•莊坤儒版面設計•馬英凱
北市瑞芳深澳的「象鼻
新岩」，因長期受海浪拍打 E lephant Trunk Rock was located at Shen’ao in New
Taipei City’s Ruifang Township. Sadly, due to erosion
caused by ocean waves and northeasterly monsoon winds,
及東北季風侵蝕，海蝕拱門的
象鼻部分在2023年12月16日 the sea arch that formed the elephant’s trunk fractured on
斷裂。這特殊地質景觀，只能 December 16, 2023. The spectacular scenery of this unusual
從照片裡重溫美好回憶。 geological formation now lives on only in photographs.
(photo and text by Kent Chuang/tr. by Phil Newell)
編人的
編者絮話語
多元創新的在地產業
文．陳亮君
中華民國113年2月1日出版（月刊）／
中華民國65年1月1日創刊
為讓國內外讀者了解台灣精釀的酒類飲此外，本期的「泡麵」專題，有當歸鴨、
出版者光華畫報雜誌社品，本期《光華》封面故事將帶讀者探訪台麻油雞、藥燉排骨等食補風味的泡麵品項，
發行人／吳釗燮
Publisher: Jaushieh Joseph WU
社長／徐詠梅灣百花齊放的釀製產地，從充滿在地風味的也有加入料理酒包的紹興肉燥拉麵、紹興櫻
Director: Catherine Y.M. HSU
總編輯／陳亮君
Editor-in-Chief: CHEN Liang-chun 啤酒、茶酒，到讓台灣成為國際威士忌新興花蝦拌麵，以及許多國外遊客來台必吃的牛
主編／曾蘭淑
Editor: Esther TSENG
文稿副主編／鄧慧純郭美瑜
產區之台味威士忌，來一趟屬於台灣的酒鄉肉麵口味……等，讓《光華》編採團隊跟讀
Deputy Editors: Cathy TENG, Mei KUO
文字編輯／陳群芳蘇俐穎李雨莘巡禮。者一同品嚐台灣泡麵的好滋味，還有早期泡
Writers: CHEN Chun-fang, Lynn SU, Cindy LI
美術編輯／蕭郢岑馬英凱劉俊良
Art Editors: HSIAO Ying-tsen, MA Ying-kai, 除了精釀酒品，另帶讀者走訪以海芋聞麵的源頭及其歷史淵源，以及與「食」俱進
Lance LIU
攝影組召集人／莊坤儒
Photographic Coordinator: Kent CHUANG
名的陽明山竹子湖，除了賞海芋，這裡還是的台灣泡麵文化。
攝影組長／林格立
Photographic Director: Jimmy LIN 早期台灣蓬萊米的原產區，「……將稻穀倒「我在填寫派駐地時，台北是唯一且優先
攝影編輯／林旻萱
Photojournalist: LIN Min-hsuan
英文編輯／陳瑩潔唐樂榕倪凱駿人風斗中，右手轉動著風鼓手把，左手上的選擇。」西班牙商務辦事處處長Eduardo
English Editors: Audrey CHEN, Robert TAYLOR,
Euba Aldape娓娓道來派駐來台三年多的心
Phil NEWELL
日文編輯／山口雪菜施家騏下搖晃著風鼓揠，稻穀便從風斗落入風穀箱
Japanese Editors: Yukina YAMAGUCHI,
Shila SHIH
印尼文編輯／陳德銘
……」看穀東俱樂部召集人陳永如帶民眾體得與體驗，從台灣的人情味、美味小籠包、
Indonesian Editor: Temmy WIRYAWAN
越南文編輯／武秋香驗碾米的過程，以及講述台灣蓬萊米的由來自行車體驗，到僅需十分鐘就可到的登山步
Vietnamese Editor: VU Thu Huong
泰文編輯／王玉雯
Thai Editor: WANG Yu-wen 與故事。道，再再驚豔了這位來自西班牙的國際友
資深行政編輯／段蜀華
Senior Administrative Editor: DUAN Shu-hwa
社群編輯／蕭淑憶
屬於在地產業的，還有嘉義東石鄉的廢蚵人，更多的分享內容盡在本期「全球視野」
Social Media Editor: Dawa HSIAO
繩與漁網的循環再利用。「一綑一綑回收的單元報導當中。
總監／鍾宜蓉
Marketing Director: Carianne CHUNG
業務協理／陳俊偉漁網整齊地排列，另一端是切成段、等待進而位於花蓮的支亞干遺址，自1929年首次
Deputy Manager: CHEN Jyun-wei
資訊部主任／卓宏基
Director of Information Systems: CHO Hung-chi 熔融爐的廢蚵繩……」如果以嘉義境內的牡被日本博物學家鹿野忠雄發現以後，便一直
綜合服務組／李淑慧
General Affairs: S.H. LEE
蠣養殖面積估算，一年會產出可繞台灣十圈受到考古界重視，可謂數千年前的國際玉器
的1,300公噸廢蚵繩，而這些廢料如何轉化並工廠。看《光華》編採團隊親訪考古現地，
再製成環保絲，提供國際品牌大廠製成機能藉由這台灣考古界的成果，串起玉器遺址、
衣等環保產品，在本期的「產業新創」單元海洋貿易、南島語族等新石器時代的榮景，
當中，有詳細的報導內容。以及還原台灣歷史上的重要片段。 l
Diverse and Innovative EDITOR’S NOTE
Local Industries
O ur Cover Story this month takes read and braised pork ribs with medicinal herbs, GPN: 2006500016 ISSN1991-525X
原刊名光華 Sinorama Magazine
ers on a journey to various micro as well as other options including pork ra 中華民國95年1月改為台灣光華雜誌
Taiwan Panorama
breweries, wineries and distilleries around men with Shaoxing wine, sakura shrimp dry SUBSCRIPTION RATES:
Taiwan. We explore the places where a noodles with Shaoxing wine, and beef noo Republic of China: NT$150 per copy,
NT$1500/year, NT$2600/2 years
diversity of alcoholic beverages are made— dle soup (a musttry for foreign visitors). For
Asia & Paciﬁc Regions: US$40/year,
US$72/2 years by airmail
from beers and teabased drinks with local this story we sampled the delicious flavors
Elsewhere: US$45/year,
US$80/2 years by airmail
flavors to Taiwanesestyle whisky, which of Taiwanese instant noodles, and we trace 社址／中華民國台灣台北市100209中正區愛國西路
has put Taiwan on the map of international the origins and history of instant noodles
2號3樓
Address: 3F, No. 2, Aiguo W. Rd., Zhongzheng
whisky producers. and Taiwan’s instant noodle culture.

District, Taipei City 100209, Taiwan, ROC
郵政信箱／100908台北復興橋郵政第8-398號信箱
We also visit Yangmingshan’s Zhuzihu “When I was asked to state my prefer

PO Box 8-398, Taipei Fuxing Bridge,
Taipei City 100908, Taiwan, ROC
area, famous for its calla lilies. Besides being ences for overseas postings, Taiwan was
讀者服務專線／+886-2-3343-2704
編輯部／+886-2-3343-2750
傳真機／Fax: +886-2-2397-0655
a place for admiring flowers, Zhuzihu is the the only place I even listed.” Eduardo Euba 網址／http://www.taiwan-panorama.com/
place where Japonica rice was first grown Aldape, director general of the Spanish
讀者服務專線／+886-2-2397-0633
E-mail: service@taiwan-panorama.com
in Taiwan. We see Chen Yongru, chairman Chamber of Commerce in Taipei, describes 著作權所有，本雜誌圖文非經同意不得轉載。
如欲轉載，請與本社資深行政聯絡。
of the Zhuzihu Ponlai Rice Seed Field Club, what he has learned and experienced in the 如發現書頁有裝訂錯誤或污損事情，
請寄至本社調換。
lead people in getting handson experience threeplus years he has been stationed here. All rights reserved. Photos and articles may not
be reprinted without our permission.
of rice milling, and we tell the origin story Taiwan has delighted this friend from Spain If you wish to reprint any of our articles or
photographs, please contact our senior
of Japonica (a.k.a. Penglai or Ponlai) rice va with its warm and friendly people, delicious administrative editor.
Damaged or misbound copies returned to us will
rieties in Taiwan. xiaolongbao dumplings, bicycling experi be gladly replaced.
Another example of a local industry is ences, and mountain hiking trails that are
the recycling of oyster shellstring cords and only ten minutes from downtown.
discarded fishing nets in Chiayi’s Dongshi We also report on the Ciyakang heritage
Township. Based on the size of its oyster site in Hualien County. First discovered in
farms, Chiayi County alone is calculated to 1929 by Japanese naturalist Tadao Kano, it is
generate 1,300 metric tons of waste shell an important archaeological site featuring
string cords a year, enough to circle Taiwan an international jade production area dating 本刊物印刷油墨使用環保認證大豆油墨
ten times. We report on how this waste back thousands of years. We visit the site
material is turned into environmentally and use the findings of archaeologists to
friendly yarn used by international brands piece together a Neolithicera story of jade
in products such as technical clothing. mining and carving, maritime trade, and the
Our article on instant noodles features Austronesian speaking peoples, highlight
noodles paired with “tonic” ingredients, ing an important period in Taiwan’s past. l
such as dong quai duck, sesame oil chicken, (Chen Liang-chun/tr. by Phil Newell)
目次
CONTENTS 中華民國113年2月第49卷第2期 Vol. 49 No. 2 February 2024
20 封面故事 Cover Story
6 酒杯裡的台灣風土
—Taiwan’s Flourishing Drinks Industry
8 零到無限的釀造魔術秀
台灣精釀啤酒
Brewing Up Endless Possibilities:
Craft Beers from Taiwan
文•李雨莘圖•林格立
30
20 釀地瓜、稻米和甘蔗的酒
地酒廠的台灣味
Sweet Potato, Rice, and Sugarcane:
Local Distillers Promote Taiwanese
Flavors
文•李雨莘圖•林旻萱
30 當茶遇見酒
茶漿入酒瓶，國酒新詮釋
When Tea Meets Alcohol:
A Fascinating Combination
文•蘇俐穎圖•林旻萱
42
42 威士忌裡的台灣味
噶瑪蘭+OMAR
Whisky, Taiwan Style:
Kavalan and Omar
文•曾蘭淑圖•莊坤儒、林格立
編者的話來自地方的明信片
Editor’s Note Postcards from Home
2 多元創新的在地產業 1 記憶深澳岬角 56 月月好讀

Diverse and Innovative Local 象鼻岩 Variety Pages
Industries 文•鄭育慧
Remembering Elephant
文•陳亮君
Trunk Rock
圖／文•莊坤儒
封面說明：
南投酒廠的蒸餾室，洋蔥型的蒸餾器，飄散著濃厚甘蔗的甜香
與麥芽蒸餾的酯香。（莊坤儒攝，蕭郢岑設計）影像對話 Photo Essay
Cover: The onion-shaped pot stills in the Nantou Distillery’s
stillhouse exude rich fragrances of sugarcane and malt.
(photo by Kent Chuang, design by Hsiao Ying-tsen)
62 《光華》攝影徵件
地方創生與在地產業
Readers’ Photos:
Local Industries and
Regional Revitalization
全球視野 Global Outlook
72 「他」眼中的台灣
西班牙商務辦事處處長
Eduardo Euba Aldape
Through Spanish Eyes:
72
A Diplomat’s View of Taiwan
文•李雨莘圖•林旻萱
80 台灣奇「玉」記
重返2000年前的玉器工廠──
花蓮支亞干遺址
Jade the Obscure:
The Prehistoric Workshops of Ciyakang
文•蘇俐穎圖•莊坤儒
島嶼行旅 Around Taiwan
92 竹子湖不只有「花名」
80
追尋領航台灣米的故事
More than Just Flowers
—Zhuzihu and the History of
Japonica Rice in Taiwan
文•郭美瑜圖•莊坤儒
產業新創 Entrepreneurship
102 與「食」俱進，經典滋味
百百款的台灣泡麵
Tradition and Innovation:
The Protean Power of Instant Noodles
文•曾蘭淑圖•林格立
112 海廢新演繹
102
蚵繩與漁網的循環經濟
Marine Waste and the Circular Economy:
New Life for Shellstring Cords and
Fishing Nets
文•郭美瑜圖•林格立
封面故事
COVER STORY
酒杯裡的
台灣風土
禁止酒駕飲酒過量，有害健康
Don’t drink and drive. Excessive alcohol consumption is harmful to health.
—Taiwan’s Flourishing
Drinks Industry
封面故事
COVER STORY
零到無限的釀造魔術秀
台灣精釀啤酒
釀酒師們靠著創意，讓西方來的精釀啤酒與台灣在地元素結合，迸發出多元、豐富的樣貌。
Microbrewers are using their creativity to combine craft beer, originally a Western drink, with Taiwanese
elements to produce a diverse array of products.
本土精釀啤酒釀酒師們秉著對於釀製啤酒的
熱情，持續嘗試、發想，從四大原料的排列組
Brewing Up
合，一路玩到添加台灣在地食材，打破限制，讓 Endless Possibilities:
Craft Beers from Taiwan
精釀啤酒從台灣這片土地「長」出來。
T
文•李雨莘圖•林格立版面設計•劉俊良
aiwan’s microbreweries, filled with a passion
for their craft, are continually trying out new
論台灣在地食材，水果是許多釀酒師在選材上
ideas and concepts. From rearranging and recom-
的第一目標。得天獨厚的條件下，台灣水果鮮甜
bining the four main raw materials they have ex-
可口，但水果入酒在國際上並不罕見，因此，如 tended their imaginations to add local Taiwanese
何讓水果與啤酒迸發出不同風貌，便是他們的首 ingredients. They have broken through barriers to
要課題。 enable craft beers to really “grow” in this land.
水果入酒，體驗台灣日常
風格如同它手繪笑臉l o g o一樣搞怪的酉鬼啤 When it comes to local Taiwanese ingredients, the

first option for many brewers is fruit. But it is already a
酒，除了有精釀啤酒愛好者推崇的實驗酒款R&D
common practice internationally to add fruit to beers.
系列，也有許多在國際比賽中獲獎的明星酒款，
Thus the first test for Taiwanese brewers is how to cre-
例如：「吐司去（掉的）邊大冰紅」、「撥雲霧 ate a new style of drink combining these two things.
見蓬萊仙島」等。 Fruit beers: Everyday flavors of Taiwan
其中，2022年獲得日本國際啤酒競賽（Inter- The brand Ugly Half Beer not only has its experi-
national Beer Cup）銀牌的「芭樂鹽小麥」，便是 mental “R&D” series that is much recommended by
把稱為國民水果的芭樂加入酒中。 craft beer lovers, many of its beers have won prizes at
international competitions.
基底使用發源於中世紀德國北部的鹽小麥啤
One of these, “Guava Gose,” the winner of a silver
酒，這款帶點鹹味的酸啤酒，遇上產自台灣的土
medal at the 2022 International Beer Cup in Japan, is
芭樂，讓檸檬酸和芭樂果香在酒中作用，呈現出 made using guava, known as Taiwan’s national fruit.
近似熱帶水果的多層香味，而果肉的甘甜味則在 For the base the company uses Gose beer, which
珊瑚礁鹽的襯托下，郁而不膩，整體喝來是一款 originated in northern Germany in the Middle Ages.
清爽、適合夏日飲用的酒款。 When this sour-tasting beer is combined with Taiwan-
但先等等，好戲這時才要上場。在倒滿黃澄酒 grown guavas, the lemony sourness of the beer and
the fragrance of the guava combine to give the beer a
液的杯中，撒上由鹽、糖和梅子混合而成的甘梅
multilayered aroma redolent of tropical fruit. Mean-
粉，這時入喉的口感變得濃郁、厚重，不僅完美
while, the sweetness of the fruit pulp is set off against
重現夜市甘草芭樂的酸甜滋味，更帶來有如品飲
coral reef salt crystals, adding to its appeal. The overall
甘草芭樂果汁的錯覺。 sensation of drinking it is one of refreshment, making
「芭樂蘸梅粉是一個很『台灣味』的吃法。」 Guava Gose ideal for summer consumption.
釀酒師王明易透露，團隊拍板製作這支酒款後， But wait, the best is yet to come! Sprinkle some plum
為了尋找最能呈現台灣人記憶中甘草芭樂味的關 powder (a mixture of salt, sugar, Asian plums, and lico-
鍵角色──甘草梅粉，嚐遍市售多款產品，最終 rice) into your glass, and the mouthfeel of the beer as it
從工廠外觀、l o g o設計，到團隊氣氛，都可以感受到酉鬼啤酒活潑、特立獨行的
風格。
You can feel the vitality and unique style of Ugly Half Beer from the appearance of their
brewery, the design of their logo, and the team spirit of their employees.
選擇了台灣人從小到大最熟不只東方人著迷，飄洋過海後，也擄獲許多西方
悉的小包裝梅粉作為配件。人的心，那何不將啤酒和茶湯結合呢？
那梅粉，怎麼搭配啤酒最合適啤酒頭釀造從家釀起步，歷經吉普賽酒廠時
呢？王明易的答案是「都可以」。期（形容沒有固定酒廠釀製啤酒的小型精釀啤酒
團隊原先設定飲用方式是調酒常見的廠），直至2023年成立釀造觀光酒廠，總計七、
「鹽口杯」，讓人在品酒的同時，可以八年的時間內，他們曾推出多款獨特的精釀啤
嚐到梅粉帶來的多重滋味，但她也分享，產酒，引發許多話題，例如：原先是愚人節玩笑，
品推出後有許多消費者發揮創意，有人是一口卻弄假成真的香菜啤酒；與餐飲集團合作，讓人
梅粉、一口啤酒，也有人選擇把梅粉直接混入酒無法想像風味會是如何的青花椒啤酒。
中，各種方式全憑個人喜好，這也是團隊在發想但真正讓啤酒頭聲名大噪的，其實是根據24節
時選擇保留下來的「空間」，如同不一定每個台氣設計的系列啤酒。其中四個酒款以茶葉作為輔
灣人都會在吃芭樂時蘸梅粉，他們希望透過這樣料，不但廣受台灣消費者喜愛，在國際更是獲獎
的小巧思，讓喝酒的人體驗到台灣民眾日常吃甘無數，單「立秋」一支品項，總計就為啤酒頭贏
草芭樂的樂趣。得七張啤酒賽事獎牌，當中包含堪稱精釀啤酒界
奧運級比賽的世界啤酒盃（World Beer Cup）。
茶湯入酒，撲朔迷離的東西風味
結合東方美人茶遠飄英國後得其名的軼事，以
另一個台灣人的日常，自然也不能忘記「喝及英式IPA與之相似的熟果味，「立秋」將東西
茶」。小小一座島，孕育了百種茶葉，在這裡的方的古老飲品，不論在歷史，或是氣味上完美融
每個人都能找到自己最愛的一盞茶。它的魅力，合。而獲獎數緊追在後的「雨水」，背後也有啤
芭樂鹽小麥單喝味道清爽，加入靈魂
角色梅粉之後，則變得濃郁。
Guava Gose craft beer has a refreshing
taste that is enhanced by adding the
critical ingredient of plum powder.
goes down your throat becomes richer and denser. It per- plum powder? Wang Ming-yi’s answer is that “anything
fectly reproduces the sweet and sour taste of the popular goes.” Initially the team expected that people would
night-market treat of guava with licorice powder, creat- adopt the “salt-rimmed glass” method often used in
ing the illusion of drinking licorice-flavored guava juice. bartending, but with plum powder instead of salt.
“Guava dipped in plum powder is very much a down- However, she notes, after the product came out many
home Taiwanese snack,” says brewer Wang Ming-yi. Af- consumers came up with creative alternatives, with
ter the team at Ugly Half Beer decided to make this beer, some people taking a smidgen of plum powder on their
they tried many plum powders available in the market tongue followed by a mouthful of beer, and others opt-
in search of one whose flavor would most authentically ing to mix the plum powder directly into the beer. Such
match Taiwanese people’s collective memories of guava methods are based on individual preferences, for this is
with plum and licorice powder. Ultimately, they selected
a plum powder that comes in small packets, which is the
most familiar kind to Taiwanese, as the ideal accompa-
niment to their Guava Gose.
So what’s the best way to enoy Guava Gose beer with
除了市場普遍喜愛的酒款，酉鬼啤酒也不斷推出其他少見、創
新的實驗性啤酒，希望讓更多人看見精釀啤酒饒富趣味的一
面。
As well as beers that are widely popular in the market, Ugly
Half Beer also continually comes out with rare and innovative
experimental beers, hoping to show more people the fun and
diverse side of beer brewing.
11
「喝酒的人，會覺得這就是蘇格蘭愛爾啤；喝
茶的人，則會說這就是金萱茶該有的風味。」
宋培弘說。
這段撲朔迷離的故事，也是啤酒頭創造24
節氣的設計主軸之一。宋培弘表示，不論是
茶葉，或是24節氣系列其他產品使用到的冬瓜
糖、咖啡、文旦、玉荷包等台灣食材，都不單
單只是將東西方味道融合，「它們都是有原
因，才能和啤酒交織出這些味道、故事。」
中藥入酒，既熟悉又陌生
位在宜蘭員山的吉姆老爹精釀啤酒工廠，選
擇一起釀入酒中的，則是中藥。
2020年，他們與在地中藥行廣生藥房合作，
推出蘭城舊味系列「棗安啤酒」及「棗眠啤
啤酒頭創辦人宋培弘，為我們細說茶葉與啤酒之間撲朔迷離
的故事。酒」。兩支酒皆使用金棗蜜餞入酒，並分別佐
Taiwan Head Brewers cofounder Ray Sung tells us the complex
story of the connections between tea and beer.
以兩種不同功效的藥湯，「棗眠」以安眠中藥
為發想，搭配靈芝、菊花、麥門冬等藥材，讓
這款啤酒具有舒眠的效果；「棗安」則使用提
神、補氣的中藥，加入龍眼肉、紅蔘等。
酒頭釀酒師們的精細設計。以麻油雞、薑母鴨為例，中藥入菜對多數台
釀酒師宋培弘和我們細細拆解其中玄妙。首灣民眾來說是日常，使用米酒等蒸餾酒釀製藥
先，位於英國北方的蘇格蘭，氣候多雨潮濕，與
雨水時節空氣潮濕感相似，故命名雨水。
接著，蘇格蘭不僅是國際上威士忌的主要產
區，也有產生出該國獨特的啤酒種類，「因為
啤酒和威士忌釀製步驟差不多，只差在有無蒸
餾。」他說。不過，和威士忌不同的是，低溫其
實不利於啤酒酵母發酵。
因此，在濕冷環境的影響下，蘇格蘭當地釀
出的啤酒出現了當時被認為是缺陷風味的奶油
味，但久而久之，卻變成蘇格蘭愛爾啤酒的招牌
特色。「而在台灣唯一一種有奶油味的茶葉，就
是茶葉改良場培育出的金萱。」啤酒頭釀酒師們
啤酒頭創辦人段淵傑熱情地和我們解說每一支啤酒的風味
將這兩種元素結合在一起後，讓「雨水」喝來不差異。
僅有濃濃奶味，還能在尾韻感受到茶的回甘感。 Taiwan Head Brewers cofounder Jay Duan explains to us the
different flavors in each beer.
12
啤酒頭24節氣系列，引入隨歲時節令變化，品飲不同風味與酒精濃度的飲酒習慣，改變啤酒只能夏天喝的刻板印象。
The “24 Solar Terms” series put out by Taiwan Head Brewers incorporates the tradition of consuming drinks with different
flavors and alcohol concentrations according to the changing seasons, challenging the widely held idea that beer is only
for summer.
a “space” that the team deliberately chose to leave open only after arriving in distant England, with British-style
when they came up with the idea for the product. And India Pale Ale and its fruity notes, this beer perfectly
because not every Taiwanese necessarily eats guava blends venerable old Asian and Western beverages in
dipped in plum powder, they hoped to employ their terms of both history and flavor. Meanwhile “Jin Xuan
clever idea to enable beer drinkers to experience the Tea Ale,” made for the “Rain Water” solar term, com-
pleasure of consuming guava with licorice powder that bines a Scotch-Ale-style beer with Jin Xuan oolong tea,
is such a part of daily life for so many people in Taiwan. and has won nearly as many awards.
Tea beers: Combining Asian and Western flavors Brewer Ray Sung, one of the brewery’s cofounders, ex-
Another part of daily life for Taiwanese is of course plains the thinking behind the latter beer. First, Scotland
drinking tea. Tea’s charm has not only captivated has a damp and rainy climate, reminiscent of the Rain
Asians, but it has also won many hearts in the West Water solar term, which begins in late February. Second,
since crossing the ocean. In that case, why not combine while Scotland is internationally renowned as a source of
beer and tea? whisky, it also produces its own unique beers. “The steps
Taiwan Head Brewers has designed a series of beers for making whisky and beer are much the same, differ-
based on the 24 “solar terms” of the traditional Chinese ing only by the distillation process,” says Sung. However,
calendar. Of these beers, four have tea as an additive. a big difference with beer as compared to whisky is that
These have not only won widespread affection from low temperatures hamper fermentation.
Taiwanese consumers, but also received countless As a result, beers brewed in Scotland, with its cold,
international awards. The beer named after the solar wet environment, have a creamy flavor. Once consid-
term “Beginning of Autumn” (labeled “Taiwan Tea Ale ered a defect, over time this became a defining feature
2” on the bottle and named “Oriental Beauty Tea Beer” in the appeal of Scottish ales. “Meanwhile, in Taiwan
on the company website) has won seven competition the only tea variety with a creamy flavor is the Jin Xuan
awards for Taiwan Head Brewers, including a bronze at oolong tea developed by the Tea and Beverage Research
the 2018 World Beer Cup, which is considered the most Station.” By combining these two elements together, the
prestigious contest in the craft beer community. master brewers at Taiwan Head Brewers not only gave
Combining Oriental Beauty tea, which got its name Jin Xuan Tea Ale a rich creamy taste, its finish also has
13
酒，更是民眾在身體虛寒時補身體的選擇之一，破中藥湯苦澀、難入口的既定印象。
但中藥精釀啤酒，可就陌生許多。不過，中藥材中也有甜味的選擇，為何最終
為了化解消費者對中藥啤酒的未知感，釀酒會使用金棗呢？劉書維坦言，他們曾試過紅棗和
師劉書維選擇加入醃漬金棗作為原料之一。他表枸杞，但都遇到了一些問題。以枸杞來說，釀造
示，融合中藥和蜜餞，不僅降低了消費者看到產 2,000公升酒液時，需要的使用量過大；紅棗雖果
品的衝擊度，同時也能創造驚喜感，讓消費者留粒較大，相對沒有使用量問題，但卻出現與鳳梨
下對蘭城舊味系列的印象。等台灣水果同樣的甜味消散狀況。
糖漬後的金棗，不僅補足鮮果肉酸度過強的缺除了成本和風味考量，劉書維更提到安全性的
點，保留果皮濃郁香氣的特色，也讓金棗因果皮問題。他說，每項食材在進入釀酒製程時，都要
厚、天然精油衍生的釀酒問題迎刃而解，最重要經過反覆測試，不僅因為要保留風味或甜味而改
的是，在平衡中藥苦味的同時，也因為醃漬中帶變添加時機點，還要多留心啤酒裝瓶後到送達消
有的鹹感而不會過度甜膩，讓人能順暢品酩，打費者手上的過程中，是否有任何風險疑慮，「做
不只搭配中藥和醃漬金棗的「蘭城舊味」系列，吉姆老爹還有以米、茶葉等原料釀製的台灣味啤酒。
J&D offers both its Old Time Yilan Flavors series made with medicinal herbs and candied kumquats, and Taiwan-flavored beers
14
brewed using ingredients such as rice and tea.
禁止酒駕 14
飲酒過量，有害健康
the sweet aftertaste of tea. “Beer drinkers will see this as
a Scotch ale, while tea drinkers will say it has the char-
acteristic flavor of Jin Xuan oolong,” says Sung.
This complex story is one of the main strands in the
design of Taiwan Head Brewers’ 24 Solar Terms line of
beers. Ray Sung says that whether it be tealeaves or the
local Taiwanese ingredients used in other products in
the Solar Terms line, their use is not only about blending
釀酒師劉書維從大學畢業就加入吉姆老爹，並運用所長，釀
Asian and Western flavors. “We have our reasons for us-
造出許多結合宜蘭在地原料的酒款。
ing all of them, as only in this way can they intermingle Brewer Douglas Liu joined Jim and Dad’s Brewing Company right
after graduating from university. He uses his expertise to produce
with beer to produce the flavors and stories that they do.” many beers that include local Yilan County ingredients.
TCM beers: Familiar yet strange
Jim and Dad’s Brewing Company (J&D), located in
Yilan County’s Yuanshan Township, has chosen some- Adding TCM herbal ingredients to comestibles is a
thing quite different to mix into their craft beers: herbs common practice for the majority of Taiwanese people.
used in Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM). For example, using a distilled beverage such as rice
In 2020 J&D worked with the local Guangshen Herbal wine to brew medicinal spirits is one of the ways peo-
Pharmacy to come out with two “Old Time Yilan Fla- ple combat the condition known in TCM practice as
vors” beers called “Kumquat Kiss Good Morning” and “deficiency cold.” However, TCM herbal craft beers are
“Kumquat Kiss Good Night.” Both beers are infused quite unfamiliar to people in Taiwan.
with candied kumquats, but paired with herbal ingre- To address consumers’ unfamiliarity with TCM beer,
dients with different functions: Kiss Good Night was brewer Douglas Liu chose to add candied kumquats as
inspired by sleeping aids used in TCM and incorporates an ingredient. He says that combining TCM herbs with
medicinal ingredients that include lucid ganoderma, candied fruit not only reduces the shock that consumers
chrysanthemum, and creeping liriope, giving this beer feel on seeing the product, but can also generate a feel-
a soporific effect. Meanwhile, Kiss Good Morning con- ing of delight, leaving consumers with a deep impres-
tains refreshing and stimulating herbal ingredients, sion of the Old Time Yilan Flavors product line.
including red ginseng and dried longan. Using candied kumquats not only compensates for
the strong acidity of the fresh fruit while retaining the
rich fragrance of the peel, it also solves the brewing
problems produced by the thickness of the peel and
the presence of natural essential oils. Most importantly,
while the kumquat balances out the naturally bitter
flavor of the TCM ingredients, the brine used in the
pickling and candying process adds a slightly salty
sensation, so that the kumquats are not too sweet. Thus
people can enjoy the beer without concerns about the
擺放木桶的工廠一角，是釀造廣受消費者歡迎桶陳系列啤酒
的重要場域。
These wooden kegs placed in a corner of the brewery are part of
the process for brewing wood-aged beers, which are very popular
with consumers.
15
酒廠的最大核心，就是產品到客人手上不會有問
題。」他說。
釀製啤酒如同一場化學實驗，每個加入製程的
元素，都可能為啤酒帶來不同變化，究竟要如何
在兼具安全的同時，在啤酒這張畫布上，展現出
原料該有的風味，就全憑釀酒師的功力了。
相思木入酒，品嚐土地滋味
水果、中藥和茶，這些對台灣人來說再熟悉不
過的味道皆可入酒，那相思木呢？
走進高森興業位於新竹的廠區，率先映入眼簾
的，是堆疊近兩層樓高的相思木原木。作為一家
從砍伐到成品製作的木材工廠，高森除了製作紙
高森興業總經理陳昱成創立公司數十年來，持續為國產材多箱和客製緩衝材，也生產建材、家具。
元發展思考新出路。
Since founding his company Gao Sen several decades ago, 儘管紙箱創造的收益已足夠支撐公司營運，但
Chen Yucheng has always been thinking of ways to develop new
applications for domestically produced materials. 總經理陳昱成仍不因此而滿足，他不斷地思考，
國產木的極限能到哪邊。這樣的動機，因而孕育
出於2014年成立的子品牌「蛋牌」。
蛋牌不走一般木材廠商的路，致力為木材創造
新生命，商品包羅萬象，例如：浴缸、家具、樂
16
禁止酒駕 16
widely held impression that TCM herbs are bitter, astrin-
gent and unpalatable.
However, there are sweet-tasting options among TCM
ingredients, so why did J&D ultimately use kumquat?
Douglas Liu admits that they previously tried Chinese
jujube (Ziziphus jujuba) and goji berries, but had problems
with both. With the latter, for instance, brewing a batch of
2,000 liters of beer required too large a quantity of goji ber-
ries, causing them to abandon them in the end. Although
jujubes are larger in size, so that fewer are needed, they
have the same problem of their sweetness becoming dissi-
pated as affects other Taiwanese fruits like pineapples.
Liu also mentions the issue of food safety. He says that
each time a new ingredient is added during the brewing
process, there must be repeated trials. Brewers not only
adjust the timing of when the new ingredient is added to 蛋牌發想將相思木餘材加入啤酒釀造，讓木頭香喝得到。
Design company The Egg came up with the idea of using acacia
optimally preserve its fragrance or sweetness, they must wood in beer brewing, making it possible to drink beers with a
also pay close attention to whether there are any risks in woody flavor.
that may affect the beer after it is bottled and on its way
to consumers.
Brewing beer is like a chemistry experiment, and each
element added to the process can cause different changes
in the beer.
17
禁止酒駕飲酒過量，有害健康 17
器、木地板，還有水杯和運動用品。那是怎麼想經過一年研發，相思木精釀啤酒系列「初相
到釀製啤酒的呢？「切割相思木的時候，刀具和思」、「醉相思」和「忘相思」，於2019年末
木頭摩擦產生了一股香味，我們思考想要怎麼利正式誕生，有趣的是，三支風味不同的啤酒，
用這個味道，才想到說可以釀酒。」蛋牌品牌經各自吸引到了不同客群。酒精濃度3%的「初相
理孫啟豪說。思」口感清爽，較受女性消費者歡迎；醉意較
他也透露，團隊最初想到的其實是威士忌，濃的7%「醉相思」和9.9%「忘相思」則受男性
但木桶釀造以年為單位，在成本上有一定程度及精釀啤酒喜好者族群喜愛，但幾乎消費者都
的壓力，因而改鑽研精釀啤酒。有志一同地為喝到木頭味道感到驚艷。
沒有釀酒硬體設備和釀酒經驗的蛋牌，帶著金黃酒體中，除了有烘烤後的碳化層在桶槽
相思木入酒的想法，在新竹找到最終合作酒經過45天發酵，在酒液中留下的醇香木質味，
廠，開始與釀酒師反覆試驗，希望覓求木頭釀還有內裡的原木帶來的厚實感，不僅是蛋牌為
酒的可能性。但在過程中，出現一個問題。國產木產業創造的新方向，也或為台灣精釀啤
為保存相思木碳化後的香味，團隊不假思索酒產業中台灣風土味的另一詮釋。
地在試驗初期烘烤整支木頭，卻意外在放入發這片土地上，還有許許多多的釀酒師正在為
酵槽後產生活性碳效果，硬生生地將應帶有麥創造更多「台味」精釀啤酒而努力。若有機
香的啤酒，濾到清澈、無味。孫啟豪笑說：會，不妨淺嚐幾口，或許不是每支酒都能深得
「那時候的啤酒喝起來像有酒精的水。」但團你心，但一定能讓人喝到真正來自台灣風土的
隊沒有放棄，仍持續努力。韻味。 □
18
禁止酒駕 18
product companies, endeavoring to innovate and find
new uses for wood materials, such as bathtubs, fur-
若來到酒吧，不妨點一杯精 niture, musical instruments, wood flooring, and even
釀啤酒，淺嚐幾口台灣在地 water cups and athletic equipment. But where did the
原料釀造出的獨特風味吧。
Next time you visit a bar in idea of brewing beer come from? “When acacia wood
Taiwan, why not order a craft is cut, the friction between the cutting tool and the
beer? It will give you a taste of
the special flavors that can be timber produces a pleasant aroma, and we thought
brewed with local ingredients.
about how we could put this fragrance to use. That’s
when we came up with idea of brewing beer with it,”
says brand manager Sun Qihao.
Lacking any brewing equipment or experience, The
Egg brought their idea for brewing beer with acacia to
some brewers for repeated experiments in search of
possibilities for making acacia beer. However, during
the process a problem turned up.
To preserve the fragrance of acacia wood after
carbonization, the development team unhesitatingly
burned entire pieces of wood into charcoal during the
trial period, but to their surprise, after the carbonized
Acacia beers: The flavor of the land wood was placed in a fermentation tank an activated
Flavors that are highly familiar to Taiwanese in- charcoal effect was produced and the beer was left clear
cluding fruit, TCM herbs, and tea, can all be added to and flavorless. Sun Qihao says with a laugh: “Drinking
beer. But what about acacia? the beer from that period was like drinking water with
Entering the factory campus of Gao Sen Establish- alcohol in it.”
ment Company in Hsinchu County, what first strikes After a year of development, The Egg formally
the eye is a two-story-high pile of raw acacia timber. launched its acacia craft beer series. Forty-five days of
As a wood products firm that handles everything from fermentation in a tank with partially carbonized aca-
tree felling to manufacturing finished products, Gao cia wood gives the golden-yellow beverage a pleasant
Sen makes products ranging from cardboard boxes woody fragrance and a feeling of substance. This prod-
and custom-made cushioning packaging materials to uct not only represents a creative new direction for the
building materials and furniture. domestic wood industry, it offers an alternative interpre-
Although the profits generated by cardboard boxes tation of “the flavor of Taiwan” in local craft brewing.
were enough to keep the company in business, General In this land of Taiwan, there are many brewers work-
Manager Chen Yucheng was not satisfied with that and ing to create craft beers with a “Taiwan flavor.” If you
was constantly thinking about what the limits were for have the chance, why not try some? Although not every
domestically produced wood products in Taiwan. This one is sure to win your heart, they will certainly enable
is what motivated him to found the subsidiary brand you to experience a taste that reflects the natural terroir
“The Egg” in 2014. and social customs of this island. l
The Egg follows a different path from most wood (Cindy Li/photos by Jimmy Lin/tr. by Phil Newell)
19
封面故事
COVER STORY
釀地瓜、稻米和甘蔗的酒
地酒廠的台灣味
Sweet Potato, Rice, and Sugarcane:
Local Distillers Promote Taiwanese Flavors
職人們將風土濃縮在酒液中，讓人嚐到最純粹、原始的台灣地酒滋味。
Expert distillers concentrate the essence of our island’s natural terroir and cultural environment
into locally made spirits that embody the purest and most original flavors of Taiwan.
20
文•李雨莘圖•林旻萱版面設計•劉俊良
T aiwan has lo ng e njo yed an ab u n dan c e of
agricultural products. Moreover, rice, sweet
potatoes, and sugarcane can do more than serve as
物產豐饒的台灣，稻米、地瓜和甘蔗不僅可
供糧，釀酒也是綽綽有餘。雖無現代化釀酒工 foods: they can also be used to make alcoholic bev-
erages. While ordinary people did not in the past
藝，百姓仍藉著生活中唾手可得的器材，揉捻原
have access to modern fermenting and distilling
料、水和其他元素，釀出一桶桶香醇酒水，或為
techniques, they could always use whatever equip-
台灣地酒雛形。 ment they had to hand to bring together raw in-
gredients, water, and other elements and produce
tasty alcoholic drinks. T his was the embryonic
民間家用自釀文化歷經日治時代徵收酒造稅， form of localized alcohol production in Taiwan.
以及國民政府時期菸酒專賣制度後，逐漸被商業
製酒的光芒蓋過，但卻不影響酒水留在記憶中的
Kinou Luo, founder of Heng Chi Distillery, tells the
絕妙滋味。
story of how a corporate chairman in his 70s, whom Luo
說到曾有素未謀面的70歲董事長指名買恆器地 had never met before, made a point of ordering the dis-
瓜酒的故事，恆器製酒創辦人羅己能口氣中隱約 tillery’s sweet potato spirit. Luo’s voice reveals the deep
透著當時的感動，「他說以前年代不能私釀酒， emotion he felt at the time: “He explained that in the past
但多出來的地瓜還是會釀一些，然後誰家辦喜事 it was illegal to privately produce alcoholic beverages in
就拿出來送，而恆器地瓜酒就是他阿公那時候釀 Taiwan, but people with extra sweet potatoes would still
make their own liquor, which they would give away to
的味道。」
whoever’s family was celebrating some special occasion.
蕃薯島的家釀地瓜酒 He said that Heng Chi sweet potato spirit tasted just like
the liquor his grandfather made back then.”
但他初嚐地瓜酒滋味的地方，是在日本。醇 Homemade sweet potato spirit
厚又帶有地瓜蜜香氣的酒水，明明如此熟悉，卻 However, the first time Luo ever tasted sweet potato
又有些陌生。「台灣為什麼沒有地瓜酒？」全憑 spirit was in Japan. “Why doesn’t Taiwan have sweet
這個想法，羅己能決定回台開設酒廠、釀製地瓜 potato spirit, too?” Armed with this inspiration, he de-
cided to open a distillery in Taiwan to make it.
酒。
With a background in the machinery industry, Luo
出身機械產業的他，於2011年正式投入釀酒產
first sought out books and information to understand
業，並和多數開放民間釀酒時起家的釀酒師一 the principles of liquor distillation, and then through
樣，靠著查找資料和閱讀書籍，了解製酒原理， practical experimentation he gradually established his
再透過實際操作釀酒過程，逐步建立釀製地瓜酒 process for distilling sweet potato spirit.
的程序。 At the Heng Chi distillery, located in Taoyuan, the
走進恆器製酒位於桃園的釀酒廠房，空氣瀰漫 air is filled with the rich fragrance of roasted sweet po-
tatoes. We listen as Luo explains the process of brew-
濃濃地瓜烘烤後的香氣，邊聆聽羅己能的介紹，
ing and distilling sweet potato spirit.
邊了解地瓜酒的釀製流程。廠房一角，機器正辛
He tells us that before sweet potatoes are fermented,
勤地攪拌著地瓜泥與酵母。 they must first be thoroughly steamed. Potatoes of
他和我們說明，地瓜進入蒸餾前，需蒸熟，這 any size can be used, so Heng Chi buys Tainung
樣製程下的地瓜果實不分大小皆可使用，恆器使 No. 57 sweet potato “rejects” that don’t meet market
21
「格外品」地瓜大小不一、外型不討喜，卻是地瓜酒香的重要來源。
“Ugly” sweet potatoes come in irregular sizes, but while their appearance is
unprepossessing, they are an important raw material for making sweet potato spirit.
用的台農57號地瓜皆是特別收來的「格外品」，看完地瓜製作，他接著邀請我們一品地瓜酒。
它們多半因外觀或尺寸不符市場標準而難以售得酒體看來清澈，風味層次卻相當多變，入口時先
好價格。是帶來地瓜獨特厚實蜜甜感，轉瞬間又變得清
「我和農夫說：『你把好的東西賣掉，不漂亮爽。
的我跟你買。』」羅己能多次親赴產地，除了為酒入喉後，羅己能回憶起結識重要人物的故
使農家放心把地瓜交到自己手上，也確認環境狀事。疫情期間，恆器構思門神保平安的概念，希
態、安全性等。望覓求與彩繪師合作，最後聯繫上雲林縣水林鄉
去化格外品的做法，不僅可以為農民帶來額蕃薯厝順天宮的廟宇彩繪師洪平順。
外收益，還能減少浪費。他舉例，以一分田（約數次親訪、懇談，洪平順最終首肯「借出」出
300坪）來算，稻米可收穫約2,000∼3,000公斤，自他手的門神圖。外盒設計放入廟宇大門的門神
地瓜則是3,000∼7,000公斤，且在多數農家施行禮讚地瓜酒禮盒甫推出，不僅成功在市場引起話
慣行農法的狀況下，仍有約30%收成會是格外題，也使大眾重新注意到洪平順這位文化部認定
品。的國寶級大師。巧合的是，水林鄉正好也是台農
農夫看來需額外費心處理的醜地瓜們，對羅已 57號地瓜主要產地。
能來說，卻都富含地瓜酒所需的蜜糖味。經過處產地串聯酒、酒再串聯藝術家，一組渾然天
理，綿密的地瓜在一次次蒸餾過程中，釋放出果成的行銷素材，羅己能卻說：「我希望大家多認
肉中最精華的滋味。識老師就好。」因為他不希望把產品直接推到消
22
蒸餾方式產出的地瓜酒清澈如水。
The body of the liquor looks clear, and the nose is com-
Distilled sweet potato spirit is as clear as water. plex and layered. On taking a sip, the first sensation
is the distinctively powerful sweetness characteristic
of sweet potatoes, followed in an instant by a sense of
standards in terms of size or appearance and therefore refreshment.
can’t be sold for a good price. As the spirit glides down our throats, Luo recounts
“I tell farmers, ‘You sell the good ones, and I’ll buy the story of how he got to know a very important
the ugly ones.’” Luo has spent a great deal of time in person. During the Covid-19 pandemic, Heng Chi con-
production areas, both to ease farmers’ minds about ceived the idea of putting out a product with paintings
putting their sweet potatoes in his hands and also to of door gods on the packaging, to symbolize protec-
confirm the environmental safety of the farms. tion of people’s wellbeing. Their search for an artist to
By taking sweet potatoes that do not meet retail work with finally brought them to Hung Ping-shun,
specifications, Heng Chi not only provides farmers temple painter for Shuntian Temple in the Fanshu area
with some extra income, but also reduces food waste. of Yunlin County’s Shuilin Township.
After processing, repeated rounds of distillation After several in-person meetings and heartfelt con-
release the essence of the flavor of the dense mass of versations, Hung finally gave the nod to “lending out”
sweet potato. images of door gods that he had painted. The outer box
Luo invites us to taste-test some sweet potato spirit. for these products shows a temple door god looking
除了地瓜純酒，恆器酒廠創辦
人羅己能也將威士忌桶陳、水
果酒等與之結合，創造出地瓜
甜蜜香外的不同面貌。
Besides making pure sweet
potato spirit, Heng Chi Distillery
founder Lo Chi-neng also
combines barrel-aged whiskey
and fruit wines with his main
ingredient to create novel
products that go beyond the
aroma of sweet potatoes.
23
訪客們一踏進中福酒廠，最先看到的便是擺滿藥酒的蜂巢型酒櫃。
When visitors step into the Yudo winery, the first thing they see is a
honeycomb cabinet displaying medicinal wines.
費者面前，寧願把商標隱藏起來，「先讓客人被櫃，才是中福酒廠的重頭戲。
酒香吸引、親自了解故事，這樣才有意義。」就只見馬何增陸續將七罐酒放在桌上，由左至
如同70歲董事長靠著恆器的地瓜酒找到家釀味那右分別是無酒精的甘酒、米香檳、吟釀、米酒、
般，羅己能希望讓更多台灣人在地瓜酒香裡，看梅子酒、茶酒和咖啡酒。這樣的順序是以米釀製
到家鄉的模樣。酒的流程，同時也是中福酒廠累積20年成績的縮
影。
創造稻米釀酒的無限可能
品著由台中糯70號製成的無酒精甘酒，和氣泡
米酒是台灣的長銷酒款，也是許多媽媽料理家口感十足的米香檳，馬何增話說從頭。當年剛從
常味的關鍵角色。軍中退役的他，赴中國轉任職台灣的某一生技公
對宜蘭三星鄉的鄉親來說，他們料理中的那司，不久後，將麴菌培育研究案帶回台灣執行，
一味，來自中福酒廠。鄉親們騎車到酒廠買酒，並以生產清酒為目標。
已是日常光景，中福酒廠創辦人馬何增透露，還不懂釀酒的他，靠著在軍中養成的實作精神，
有遠從台北來的客人指名就要印有父親肖像的米摸索製酒流程，最終成功產出中福酒廠的第一支
酒，他笑說：「大家來了把錢放在桌上，東西拿清酒。但因當時市場對清酒認識不多，銷售量不
了就走，這裏很像最大的雜貨店。」佳，為了酒廠生計，他只好將清酒再次蒸餾，製
這家「雜貨店」，其實是宜蘭縣第一家取得成米酒，並命名「磨耐閤」（意即台語「無奈
製酒執照的酒廠。來此參觀的訪客們，多數會先何」）。
被蜂巢型藥酒櫃和50年歷史的碾米廠機器的場面中福酒廠的清酒路臨時轉了方向，故事也在此
給震懾住。不過，隔壁品酒間中，環繞四周的酒中場休息，此時他神祕地從未貼酒標的小罐玻璃
24
on approvingly at the sale of these sweet potato spirit For the people of Yilan County’s Sanxing Township,
gift packs. This not only caused a stir in the market, it this kitchen staple comes from the Yudo Distillery and
also brought new public attention to Hung, who has Winery Company. It is common to see local people riding
been named a living national treasure by the Ministry their motor scooters to the winery to buy alcoholic bever-
of Culture. Coincidentally, Shuilin is also an important ages. Its founder, Ma He-tseng, says with a smile: “Every-
production center for Tainung No. 57 sweet potatoes. body comes and puts their money on the table and leaves
The links between the production area, the liquor with their purchases. We are like a big general store.”
and the artist naturally suggested numerous marketing Most of the visitors who come here to tour the facility
angles. But Kinou Luo says: “It’s enough for me if more are initially struck by the honeycomb-shaped medicinal
people learn about this master painter.” He doesn’t wine cabinet and the 50-year-old rice-mill machinery in
want to push his product directly in consumers’ faces, the winery’s foyer. However, it is the tasting room next
but prefers to hide the trademark. “It is more meaning- door, lined with cabinets of alcoholic beverages, that is
ful if customers are first attracted by the fragrance of the real highlight at Yudo.
the spirit and personally come to understand the story We watch as Ma He-tseng lines up seven bottles on
behind the product.” Just as the corporate chairman the table: alcohol-free amazake (sweet sake), rice cham-
in his 70s rediscovered the flavor of his grandfather’s pagne, ginjo sake, rice wine, plum wine, tea wine, and
home-distilled alcohol through Heng Chi’s sweet po- coffee wine. This sequence is based on the various steps
tato liquor, Luo hopes that even more Taiwanese people involved in producing each of the beverages, and it of-
will be reminded of their hometowns amidst the fra- fers a microcosm of the accomplishments that Yudo has
grance of sweet potato spirit. accumulated over the last 20 years.
Limitless possibilities for rice wine Back in the day, Ma had just left military service, and
Rice wine has long been popular in Taiwan, and it he went to China to work in a Taiwanese-owned biotech
has played a key role in family cuisine made by moth- company. Not long afterward, he returned to Taiwan to
ers across the island. work on a research project to culture koji mold (Asper-
gillus oryzae) for the purpose of producing sake.
While Ma lacked an understanding of the sake brew-
ing process, he applied the practical spirit he had de-
veloped in the military to successfully produce Yudo’s
first sake. However, because at that time there was little
awareness of sake in the market, sales lagged. To keep
the company afloat, his only option was to distill the
sake into rice wine, which he named after the Taiwan-
ese expression for “no alternative.”
層架上的每瓶酒，背後都有中福酒廠創辦人馬何增與許許多
多農民們，共同努力為台灣米尋找全新可能的故事。
Each drinks bottle on the shelves here has a story behind it about
the joint efforts made by Yudo Distillery and Winery Company
founder Ma He-tseng and many farmers to find new possibilities
for Taiwanese rice.
25
瓶倒出一小杯清澈的液體，要我們猜猜這是桌上
的哪瓶酒。
透明酒液聞來香氣四溢，喝來口感滑順，一時
讓人說不上這股味道究竟來自何物，他笑吟吟地
公佈解答，是米酒。他解釋，會有這樣的環節，
是因為中福釀製出來的米酒，口味與市售料理米
酒不盡相同，若未事先告知，許多訪客會誤認為
其他酒款，故衍生出這樣的環節，希望能藉此打
破對米酒的既定印象，讓客人願意單獨品嚐米酒
的風味。
這款於2015年獲得財政部優質認證酒品評鑑
中米酒組銅牌的蘭陽米酒，也是中福酒廠的轉捩
點。優良製酒技術傳開後，不僅鄉親成老主顧，
中福酒廠與農民合作酒款皆看不到明顯酒廠標誌，為的就是也有許多農民慕名而來，希望能將過剩稻米製
讓品酒人能記住台灣稻米釀出的最美好滋味。酒。
The winery brand name is not prominently displayed on the rice
wines that Yudo produces in collaboration with farmers. The 但馬何增看得更遠，他除了協助釀製米酒，也
reason is that they want to let consumers focus on the excellent
flavor of wines made from Taiwan rice. 嘗試輔導農民施行計畫耕種、復耕古米種。擺在
Having described how Yudo’s focus turned away But Ma had even longer-term plans in mind. Besides
from producing only sake, Ma pauses and mysteriously making rice wine for these farmers, he also tried to
brings out an unlabeled glass bottle, from which he guide them to undertake planned cultivation and re-
pours a glass of clear liquid. Then he asks us to guess sume cultivation of rice varieties from the past.
which of the drinks bottles on the table it matches. The plum wine, tea wine, and coffee wine that Yudo
The clear liquor is fragrant and has a very smooth has gone on to produce are a small part of the inno-
mouthfeel, but we cannot readily identify what in- vative possibilities the company has devised for rice
gredient gives it its flavor. Ma laughs and announces wines. Ma says with a laugh: “To tell you about every
that this is rice wine. He explains that because Yudo’s one of our wines would take three days and three
rice wine tastes different to the cooking rice wine gen- nights.” For behind every one them lies the whole-
erally sold on the market, many visitors (unless told hearted commitment of the master wine makers as well
in advance) will guess that this some other beverage. as the sweat and tears of the farmers who have assid-
Through this kind of comparison, he hopes to break uously grown the rice and the fruit that make up their
down people’s stereotypes about rice wine. ingredients.
Rice wine production marked the turning point for Recovering the ideal taste of sugarcane
Yudo. As the firm’s reputation for making premium Sugarcane was introduced into Taiwan in the era
wines spread, not only did local residents become long- of Dutch colonial rule (1624–1668), and thanks to the
time customers, many farmers also came forward hop- island’s hot, humid climate, it was grown in large
ing to turn their surplus paddy rice into wine. amounts. It therefore became one of the options for
26
米酒旁的吉野吟釀，便是中福酒廠與青農任永旭「二水」和「三水」。「頭水」品質最好，又稱
共同努力多年，於2020年正式推出的成果。「甘蔗酒」；「二水」略帶雜質，則稱「離仔
接續下來的梅酒、茶酒和咖啡酒，則是中福酒酒」；「三水」不僅雜質更多，還帶有惡臭，名
廠為米酒創造新可能的小部分軌跡。放下酒杯，為「糖蜜酒」。
環視擺滿整間品酒室的酒瓶，馬何增笑說：「這但隨著法規限制民間釀酒、製糖產業沒落，甘
裡每支酒講完，可能要花三天三夜。」因為每支蔗製酒也逐漸消失。
酒背後有釀酒師真摯的心意，還有農夫辛勤地耕直至今日，全台灣僅存兩間仍製糖開工的糖廠
種稻米、照顧果樹的血汗與淚水。中，虎尾糖廠便是其中一間。每年12月中旬的採
收季，都能看到五分車忙碌的身影和台鐵列車擦
執著釀回甘蔗最好的味道
身而過的奇妙景象，而剛採收下來的甘蔗，讓空
甘蔗，是製糖的主要原料，於荷據時代引入台氣瀰漫著一股甜味。
灣，受惠於氣候的潮濕和高溫，產量豐盛，故此「那是我小時候喜歡的味道。」虎尾釀創辦人
成為許多民眾釀酒的選擇之一，是僅次米酒和地鄭文維如此評價，而這股味道也是他堅持釀進蘭
瓜酒的第三大酒項。姆酒的風味。
傳統釀造法是將甘蔗汁，透過反覆煮沸、加走進虎尾釀酒廠，我們隨鄭文維從釀酒廠、酒
入「離仔土」（石灰類粉末）的過程，提煉出砂窖，再進到品酒室，流暢地看完一支酒從原料處
糖，依次剩餘下來的水，分別被稱為「頭水」、理、蒸餾，再到陳釀的過程，但虎尾釀蘭姆酒的
ordinary people to use to produce alcoholic beverages,

making it the third most popular foundation for such
drinks after rice and sweet potatoes.
However, after legal restrictions were placed on
the making of alcohol by private citizens in the 1920s,
lasting until Taiwan joined the World Trade Organiza-
tion in 2002, and the sugar industry went into decline
from the 1960s, the use of sugarcane to make alcoholic
drinks also gradually disappeared.
Today, the Taiwan Sugar Corporation’s Huwei Refin-
ery is one of only two remaining working sugar refin-
eries in Taiwan. Each year at harvest time you can see
the intriguing sight of narrow-gauge sugarcane trains
passing alongside trains of the Taiwan Railway Admin-
istration, while fresh-cut cane fills the air with a sweet
aroma. 來到虎尾釀品酒室，創辦人鄭文維（左）倒上一杯蘭姆酒，
“This is the fragrance I loved as a child,” says Favor- 為每位訪客述說酒杯中封存的故事。
In the rum tasting room, Favorland founder Cliff Cheng (left)
land distillery founder Cliff Cheng, and it is the flavor pours out glasses of rum and tells visitors the stories behind the
drink.
he insists on recreating in the rum that he produces.
27
誕生，可就沒這麼順利了。究竟自己喜歡的味道，市場接受嗎？消費者給
2013年取得酒廠執照後，鄭文維將虎尾主要農的答案，或許是肯定的。虎尾釀蘭姆酒上市後數
作物──稻米、甘蔗作為虎尾釀製酒主力釀製原月內銷售一空，還有一位法國品酒師向他表示：
料，但眼看米威士忌於2016年問世，以甘蔗作為「虎尾釀蘭姆酒是他在台灣喝過的蘭姆酒中，最
原料的蘭姆酒卻遲遲不見蹤影。好喝的。」
鄭文維坦言，因為釀出來的蘭姆酒風味，始終但鄭文維也補充，口味偏好沒有對錯，和臭
與他在採收季時聞到的味道不符。豆腐並非人人愛一樣，虎尾釀蘭姆酒想傳遞的是
經過多次嘗試後，他才發現，關鍵在於使用他作為虎尾在地子弟與土地相處多年的記憶，
的原料型態不同。多數源於加勒比海地區的蘭姆如同創立虎尾釀的宗旨：「用職人的心釀造土地
酒，是將糖蜜加水稀釋，再加入酵母發酵後，經記憶。」就是要讓喝到虎尾釀酒的人，都能感
多次蒸餾而成，儘管符合大眾市場期待，卻不是受專屬虎尾的滋味。「因為好喝的酒太多了，要
他要的味道。做出有靈魂、生命的酒，才能嚐到文化真正的味
而源於法屬馬丁尼克島的農業蘭姆酒（又稱道。」他說。
法式蘭姆酒），則是使用甘蔗汁作為原料產製蘭小心翼翼地打開全工廠僅存一瓶蘭姆酒，將淺
姆酒，因此讓鄭文維靈光一閃，決定以此作法為咖啡色的酒液倒入杯中，淡淡蔗香從杯中飄出，
基礎，並輔以蔗糖稍加改良，置入木桶中陳釀兩入喉後在口中散開的糖蜜香，讓人彷彿看到過往
年，虎尾釀蘭姆酒於2020年正式上市。「糖都」虎尾在甘蔗採收季時的盛況。 □
酒窖中的每一個木桶，都蘊含鄭文維記憶中最美好的米香和甘蔗甜。
Every cask in the barrel storehouse embodies the rice fragrance and
sugarcane sweetness of Cliff Cheng’s memories.
甘蔗汁和蔗糖經過蒸餾，將虎尾糖廠採收季時空氣中的甜
味，精萃在虎尾釀蘭姆酒中。
By fermenting and distilling sugarcane juice and raw cane
sugar, Favorland imbues its rum with the essence of the sweet
fragrance that fills the air at sugarcane harvest time.
Entering Favorland’s Huwei distillery, we follow Favorland’s rum sold out within a few months of
Cheng as he shows us the well-established process of reaching the market. There was even a French somme-
making rum, from the processing of the raw ingredi- lier who told Cheng: “Favorland rum is the most deli-
ents to distilling to aging. However, Favorland’s initial cious rum I ever tasted in Taiwan.”
attempts to distill rum did not go so smoothly. However, he adds that there is no right or wrong
After getting a distillery operating license in 2013, when it comes to taste. Just as not everyone enjoys
Cheng decided to use Huwei’s main crops—paddy rice stinky tofu, Favorland aims for its own unique style: It
and sugarcane—as the major ingredients for Favor- wants its rum to convey memories of the long-term re-
land’s production of alcoholic beverages. However, lationship between the people of Huwei and its land, so
while his rice whisky hit the market back in 2016, his that people who drink Favorland rum can taste a flavor
rum, made from sugarcane juice, was still nowhere to that belongs exclusively to Huwei.
be seen. Cliff Cheng carefully opens the only remaining bot-
Cheng says that this was because the flavor of the tle of Favorland rum at the distillery, and as he pours
rum he distilled was never the same as the aroma that it the delicate fragrance of sugarcane wafts out of the
he had smelled at harvest season. glasses. In our mouths the rum releases a sweet taste,
Most rums are made by diluting sugarcane molasses and in our mind’s eye we see the abundant sugarcane
with water, fermenting it with yeast, and then distill- harvest of days gone by in Huwei, once known as Tai-
ing the resulting liquor multiple times. Although these wan’s sugar capital. l
rums meet the expectations of the market, they don’t (Cindy Li/photos by Lin Min-hsuan/
have the flavor he was looking for. tr. by Phil Newell)
Rhum agricole, as made on the French Caribbean is-
land of Martinique, has fresh sugarcane juice as the raw
material, and Cheng decided to use this method as his
foundation. After he modified the process by adding
raw cane sugar to the juice, Favorland rum finally hit
the shelves in 2020.
虎尾糖廠裡，五分車來來去去載運採收後甘蔗的畫面，是當
地人的共同記憶。（莊坤儒攝）
The sight of narrow-gauge trains shuttling freshly harvested
sugarcane into the Huwei Sugar Refinery is part of the collective
memories of local residents. (photo by Kent Chuang)
29
封面故事
COVER STORY
當茶遇見酒
茶漿入酒瓶，國酒新詮釋
酒與茶，同為跨文化、跨國界的流行飲料。然，比起台灣因2002年加入WTO廢除菸酒專賣
制度，釀酒產業後來才跟上；作為茶產區，茶，更像是台灣人根深蒂固的依戀。
農業社會裡，路旁、廟口、涼亭裡的奉茶，現代社會便利商店裡的罐裝茶，街上的手搖飲，
品牌琳琅滿目。台灣人用茶傳達情感，把茶當作年節、洽公的贈禮，對某些人來說，茶還是投
資標的。
是以，隨著酒產業急起直追，從風味的探索、風土的呈現與釀造的技術等講究，從釀酒、調
酒、到品酒，許多酒界人士都從茶取經，甚至兩相結合，期望從中傳遞台灣獨具的酒語言。
When Tea Meets Alcohol:

A Fascinating Combination
A lcoholic beverages and tea are both popular cross-cultural drinks. However, in contrast to the only
recent rise of the private-sector beer, wine, and liquor industry in Taiwan following the abolition of
the alcohol and tobacco monopoly system upon our accession to the World Trade Organization in 2002, tea,
of which Taiwan is a major producer, has long been loved by Taiwanese.
In the wake of the rapid rise of the alcoholic beverage industry, much meticulous attention has been de-
voted to the exploration of tastes, the manifestation of Taiwan’s terroir and cultural environment, and brew-
ing and distilling technology. From brewing and distilling to mixology to connoisseurship, many people in
the world of beer, wine, and liquor are drawing lessons from the realm of tea. Indeed, some have gone so far
as to combine the two, hoping to thereby produce a vocabulary of alcoholic beverages unique to Taiwan.
From groupings as small as families to ones as large Government General of Taiwan in the era of Japanese
as nations, dietary culture is linked to history and is rule. Her mother, a child of a prominent local family,
stored in collective memories. Tea is an important ele was born at Wangyangju, a historic house in New
ment that threads through the history of Taiwan. Taipei City’s Yingge District. Stories like these from
In 1869, Scottish merchant John Dodd and Dadao long ago laid the foundations for Laura Lu’s deep emo
cheng based businessman Li Chunsheng exported tional attachment to Taiwan, and she says: “I’ve always
“Formosa Oolong Tea” from Tamsui to New York, wanted to help more people learn about Taiwan.” Many
launching the rise to prominence of Taiwan tea. years ago, she happened upon two teas that are hard to
The story of Taiwan through tea find in the market: premium quality Oriental Beauty
Her grandfat her handled procurement for t he tea produced in Hsinchu County’s Beipu Township,
文•蘇俐穎圖•林旻萱版面設計•劉俊良「東方美人」（Oriental beauty tea）。
小至家族，大至國族，飲食勾連著歷史，貯存以茶為引，說台灣故事
群體的記憶。茶，則是在台灣歷史中穿針引線的祖父是日治時代，總督府的採購；來自地方望
重要信物。族的母親，出生在鶯歌市定古蹟「汪洋居」裡頭
1869年，英國商人約翰•陶德與大稻埕商人李 ……這些遠久以前發生的故事，點點滴滴，匯集
春生，將「Formosa Oolong Tea」從淡水出口到紐成可觀的感情基礎。對台灣始終有著難以言喻的
約，開啟台茶大時代。情深，「一直想讓更多人認識台灣。」Laura說。
新竹北埔有一勤儉的茶農，將錯就錯將經小多年前，無意邂逅坊間罕見，新竹北埔產的頂級
綠葉蟬咬過的白毫烏龍製成茶，獨具的蜜香卻大東方美人茶，以及當年被日本人進貢給天皇享用
受歡迎，茶商爭相搶購，茶農以此回鄉宣傳，同的日月潭阿薩姆紅茶，一向喜歡喝茶，也喜歡歷
鄉無人相信，揶揄該茶為「膨風茶」，而茶飄洋史的她，靈機一動，心想，可以讓更多人藉台灣
過海銷售到英國，竟受到英國女王的喜愛，賜名茶看見台灣，為此，她創辦了「綠茗堂」。
31
茶是台灣在國際被識別的重要文化符碼。
Tea is an important cultural symbol by which Taiwan can
distinguish itself in the international community.
品牌底下的茶只有12支，但手採一心二葉的好 and Assam tea from the Sun Moon Lake area of Nan
品質，加上精品等級的設計，十多年前，還不講 tou County, which back in the day was presented to the
究茶包裝的年代，綠茗堂的亮眼形象，快速地在 Japanese emperor for his personal consumption. Lu,

who has always enjoyed tea, got the sudden inspiration
市場上打開了知名度。累積至今，已銷售到60幾
to use Taiwan tea to draw more people’s attention to
個國家，常是外交官餽贈外賓的伴手禮，從日籍
Taiwan, and to this end she founded “Le Vert thé.”
音樂家坂本龍一，到法國國會議員、W TO的官 Only 12 teas are sold under this brand name, but
員，都收過綠茗堂的茶。 they are handpicked onetip twoleaf teas of high
只不過，台灣人喝台灣茶，以純飲為宗，講 quality varieties and are presented with boutiquelevel
求原味、清香、單一品種，與歐美客習慣加糖、 packaging design. More than a decade ago, at a time
加奶（如英式奶茶）、喝複方（如早餐茶、伯 when little attention was paid to tea packaging, Le Vert
爵茶）的習慣大相逕庭，如何讓外國人認識台灣 thé quickly became wellknown in local markets for

its eyecatching image. To date its products have been
茶？因為喜歡創新，Laura借力使力，以酒開創
sold in over 60 countries and are often given as gifts
by diplomats to foreign dignitaries. Personages from
the Japanese musician Ryuichi Sakamoto to members
of the French parliament to officials at the World Trade
Organization have received Le Vert thé tea.
However, when Taiwanese drink Taiwan tea, they
mainly do so in its pure form, emphasizing its natural
flavor and clear fragrance and consuming unblended
teas. This is quite different from the custom in the West
of adding sugar and milk (as for Englishstyle milk tea)
or drinking blended teas (such as breakfast tea or Earl
Grey). What could Lu do to get more foreigners to learn
about Taiwan tea? A lover of the novel and innovative,
對台灣饒富情感的Laura，創辦綠茗堂，藉茶講述這片土地
的故事。 she turned to alcoholic beverages to open up new pos
Laura Lu, who feels a deep emotional attachment to Taiwan, sibilities. She worked with the W Hotel in Taipei’s Xinyi
founded “Le Vert thé” to tell the stories of this land.
District to promote options combining tea with alcoholic
beverages. In the bar on the hotel’s 31st floor, bartend
了另條路。她與台北信義區的奢華酒店W Hotel ers brewed tea on the spot and mixed it into cocktails,
合作，在高空31層的酒吧推出結合茶與調酒的餐 which they served with Chinesestyle foods and drinks,
點，讓調酒師現場沖茶，加入調酒，並且搭配中 and this proved to be very popular with foreigners.
式餐飲，大受老外的好評，原本預計三個月、半 Originally planned to be only a shortterm activity of
年的短期活動，卻足足持續了三年。 three to six months, this project lasted for three years.
Lu has retained this inspiration, and later she brought
這一份感動被留了下來。後來，她帶著產品
her products to the Taiwan Tobacco and Liquor Corpo
前往台灣菸酒公司提案，「以前在博愛路上有
ration (TTL) to propose a joint project. “My grandfather
著兩處辦公室的祖父，說不定就曾在這裡辦公 formerly had two offices on Bo’ai Road, so perhaps he
哦？」這樣的念頭一閃而逝。爾後，雙方順利得 worked right here?” was a thought that flashed through
到共識，推出名之為「台灣印象」的聯名茶酒調 her mind. She and TTL subsequently agreed to launch a
飲。嫣粉的「粉色珊瑚海」，結合日月潭紅茶、 series of tea–alcohol mixed drinks called “ThéJà Vu.”
33
台酒的琴酒、屏東的西瓜，瑰麗的顏色如映照在酒的優勢：「因先天擁有的苦味與單寧所形成的
海岸線的霞光，也像海中妍麗的珊瑚。或如另一迷魅韻致，取以調飲，都能創造不遜於酒品的豐
款「山嵐星河」，金黃閃爍的色澤，如高山茶燦富質地與複雜層次，特別茶，因本身寬容度夠，
亮，風味結合了梨山高山茶、新鮮梨子與山櫻且從綠茶青茶紅茶到產地系譜森羅龐然，更是備
花酵母製的清酒，「每一支調酒，就是一個故受青睞。」
事。」她說。
調酒師回頭尋「茶」
大調飲時代的台灣特色
對於外國人，尤其歐美客來說，取徑調酒，比
此時，餐飲市場正是飲品相互混搭、調合、起直截端茶上桌，更能引發共鳴。
實驗的年代。又稱雞尾酒的調酒尤其顯著，從傳「世界50大酒吧」、「亞洲50大酒吧」、「米
統作法：取蒸餾烈酒，混搭非酒精飲料、食材，其林」的榜上常客Indulge Bistro，創辦人是被譽
到近來衍生以茶或果汁為基底、全無酒精性調飲為「華人雞尾酒教父」的王偉勳，他談起自己從
Mocktail，凸顯調酒師的個人創意，也強調飲料酒出發，卻涉足台茶領域的緣由。
背後的文化、歷史內涵。 16歲國中畢業後即入行，擔任調酒師超過30
在「越在地，越國際」的年代，台灣茶，成年，其中，長達10年的時間都在東京、大阪、紐
為台灣調酒師傳達地方特色的不二選擇──而這約、倫敦等國際大城市工作。長年與老外共事，
樣的加法美學，對於素來以包容、創新著稱的台深刻地體會到不同族群、文化的差異，「法國人
灣，顯得裡應外合、毫不陌生。畢竟，與調酒近講葡萄酒，蘇格蘭人有威士忌，日本人可以說清
似的調飲手法，不早就嫻熟運用在街頭巷尾的手酒，我曾經拿高粱酒來表達台灣，才發現自己對
搖飲店中了嗎？高粱的製程根本都不熟悉。」
而以茶入酒，除了飲料自然而然具備「台灣下午，休息時段的酒吧，王偉勳信手沏起東方
性」，並呼應餐飲市場強調在地的時代潮流，飲美人茶。時間拉到15年前返台初期，為了尋找台
食作家葉怡蘭在〈調飲新時代〉更提及了以茶入灣文化的象徵與差異性，他開始領著團隊在台灣
調酒原料來源多元，更易傳遞故事。圖為綠茗堂與台酒公司聯手推出的「台灣印象」系列。
Diverse ingredients can be used in making cocktails, making it easier for them to convey stories.
The photo shows the “ThéJà Vu” series of drinks put out jointly by Le Vert thé and the Taiwan
Tobacco and Liquor Corporation.
Taiwan in the age of mixed drinks a great deal of time learning about Taiwan tea, before
Today the beverage market is in an era of mixing, finally returning to work in his original profession of
blending, and experimentation. This is especially mixology. He has high standards for the alcoholic drinks
marked for mixed alcoholic drinks, also known as he composes. He admits that mixology is not that diffi
cocktails. From the recombination of traditional cock cult, and that all cocktails are based on a combination
tails (distilled spirits blended with non alcoholic of sour and sweet. However, one cannot have only sour
beverages and ingredients) to the recent emergence and sweet to make a good mixed drink—the ingredients
of completely alcoholfree “mocktails” made with tea have to have a certain logic, and have a story or cultural
or fruit juice, mixologists have been showing off their background to them. Blending in elements of Taiwan tea
personal creativity while also drawing attention to the is a good way to give a distinctly Taiwanese character to
culture and history behind their drinks. the art of cocktails, which originated in the West.
In an age when people are encouraged to “think However, most teas have elegant, delicate flavors,
globally, act locally,” Taiwan tea has become the top whereas alcoholic beverages have strong and vigorous
choice for local mixologists to convey somet hing tastes, so how did Wang combine the two in such a way
unique about Taiwan.
Adding tea to alcoholic beverages naturally gives
the resulting drinks a “Taiwaneseness” and resonates
with the trend in the food and beverage market to em
phasize local products. But there is another advantage
to this mixture that has been noted by culinary writer
Yeh Yilan in an essay entitled “A New Era for Blended
Drinks”: “Because tea has a charm produced by its in
herent slightly bitter flavor and tannins, when used in
blended drinks it can create a rich texture and complex
layers that are in no way inferior to alcoholic beverages.
Teas in particular have a naturally broad compatibility.
Moreover, the complex lineages of green and black teas
from different production areas enhance their appeal.”
The Five Elements
In particular, foreigners and especially visitors from 出於對台灣文化的好奇，作為調酒師的王偉勳，一步步涉足
台茶領域。
Europe and the Americas will feel a greater sense of
Curiosity about Taiwanese culture prompted bartender Aki Wang
identification with mixed tea–alcohol drinks as com to progressively cross over into the field of tea.
pared to tea served directly.
The Indulge Experimental Bistro, which has been that one element did not overshadow the other? He
listed as one of Asia’s 50 Best Bars and cited by the points out that the compatibility of tea and alcoholic
Michelin Guide, was founded by Aki Wang, who has beverages depends on the grasp that the mixologist has
been called “the godfather of cocktails among ethnic of these two expansive fields of learning. The optimal
Chinese.” He talked to us about his reasons for bringing demonstration of this is the “Five Elements Formosa”
Taiwan tea into the world of alcoholic beverages. bottled cocktails produced under the name of Indulge
Wang, an experienced bartender who started in the Bistro. These five mixed drinks, named after the five
business at age 16, worked in international locations elements (or “five agents”) of Chinese philosophy—
including Tokyo, New York, and London, then spent metal, wood, water, fire, and earth—imply the five tea
35
六大產區走訪。走入茶園、結識茶農，甚至後來出，茶與酒的融合度，關乎調酒師對於這兩大領
買下了險些廢耕的農田留種復育。他稱以東方美域知識的掌握能力。以Indulge Bistro名義推出的
人屢屢獲獎的「茶狀元」姜肇宣、因碧螺春揚名「五行茶雞尾酒」是絕佳示範，「金、木、水、
的「三峽茶王」黃文雄，還有老字號茶館「相思火、土」五支調酒，個別暗示北中南東離島的五
李舍」的主人李威德為老師。他們教導他茶的相座茶園。
關知識，關乎茶的種作，茶葉的優劣、品茶與泡以「金」來說，採用的是有「金酒」別稱的
茶的方式等。氤氳茶香裡，當他逸興遄飛地分享琴酒為風味基底，再加入七里香與白桃，一來呼
著一路走來的見聞與收穫，無疑證實著他在茶領應包種茶特有的白花香後韻，也暗示茶園所在地
域的戮力之深。 ──坪林漁光村的風土環境。一如他繪聲繪影地
描述：「從山腰往下看，可以看到大蛇一般的河
一支調酒，一座茶園，一片風土
流蜿蜒，耳邊會聽到山上的廟敲鐘，茶園周遭栽
回歸調酒本業，王偉勳對出手的調飲要求嚴種著七里花與水蜜桃。夕陽西下，曬成整片金
謹，他直言，製作調飲不會太困難，「酸＋甜」黃。茶園周遭的風土，包括夏摘的包種、花果的
即是所有調酒的基礎；但好的調酒，不能光只香氣、黃昏的顏色、金屬撞擊的聲音，都被放到
有酸、甜，材料的選用要有邏輯，還要兼具故事酒裡頭。」
性、文化性，而不是討巧跟風。融合台灣茶元
用酒語言，介紹台灣茶
素，是不錯的方法，讓發源自西方的調酒，有了
台灣落地生根的模樣。因為擔任不少酒品牌大使，常赴海外出席活
但多數的茶滋味高雅縹渺，酒則風味雄渾強動，王偉勳也常以茶酒代表台灣來作外交。因
烈，如何能讓兩者相融，不顧此失彼？王偉勳點歐美人大多嫻熟Old Fashioned（經典雞尾酒）、
在調酒中結合台灣茶，訴說風土的故事，也
傳達出台灣的獨特性。
Combining alcoholic beverages with Taiwan tea
can tell the stories of Taiwan’s terroir and culture
and convey the uniqueness of the island.
36
禁止酒駕 36
石門產的阿里磅紅茶、仙楂、海 most Europeans and Americans are familiar with clas
鹽、蛋白等滋味交疊，肖似古早
味紅茶、鹹蛋糕的風味，對台灣
sic cocktails like the Old Fashioned, the Martini, and
人頗有似曾相識之感。 the Cosmopolitan to produce related drinks. “Before
The interaction of various flavors
produced in New Taipei’s Shimen
you introduce yourself, you have to first pay respect to
District, including Alibang black tea, the other party’s culture and traditions.” For example,
Chinese hawthorn, sea salt, and
egg white, creates a taste similar he replaces the bitters that are an essential ingredi
to old-fashioned black tea and
Taiwanese salt sponge cake (a.k.a.
ent in any Old Fashioned with Tungting (Dongding)
savory cake), giving Taiwanese a oolong tea, causing people to ask with surprise: How
sense of familiarity.
can this Old Fashioned be so fragrant? He always ex
plains patiently that the source of the osmanthus and
longan aromas in this “Tungting Fashioned” is Taiwan
Tungting oolong tea.
plantations from which the tea is sourced, located in “I choose similar elements to substitute for classic
northern, central, southern, and eastern Taiwan as well elements, or to enhance a particular feature.” These bev
as the offshore Penghu Islands. erages act as a leadin that sparks foreigners’ curiosity
Taking “Metal” for example, the foundation of the about Taiwan, and from tea–alcohol beverages they can
drink is gin (because “metal” in Chinese is pronounced be introduced first to Taiwan tea, then to tea producing
jin), to which orange jessamine flowers and white peach areas, then to Taiwan’s terroir and cultural environment
are added, and these work in concert with the distinc and its diverse array of unique products. In this way,
tive orange jessamine aftertaste of Pouchong (Baozhong) foreigners can be left with a deep impression of Taiwan.
tea. The drink also hints at the environment of the tea
plantation, located at Yuguang Village in New Taipei’s
將台灣印象融合其中的五行茶酒。
Pinglin District. Wang vividly describes the scene: The “Five Elements Formosa” series of tea-based
alcoholic beverages give consumers a lasting
“Looking down from the mountainside, you can see impression of Taiwan.
a river snaking through the valley, your ears pick up
the sound of bells from mountain temples, and the
land around the tea plantation is planted with orange
jessamine and peaches. As the sun sets in the west,
the whole is bathed in a goldenyellow light. The ter
roir of the tea plantation—including summerpicked
Pouchong tea, the scent of flowers and fruit, the color of
the sunset, and the metallic striking of the bells—has
been fully incorporated into the drink.”
Introducing Taiwan tea through alcoholic drinks
Wang has served as an ambassador for many alco
holic beverage brands and frequently travels overseas
to attend events. He routinely interacts with foreigners
by using tea–alcohol beverages as a representative
product of Taiwan. He takes advantage of the fact that
37
入行近30年，王偉勳（左）打造
實驗室，將主觀的個人經驗數據
化、科學化。
Aki Wang (left), who has been a
mixologist for nearly 30 years,
has founded a laboratory to turn
his professional experience into
quantified scientific data.
馬丁尼、柯夢波丹等經典調酒，他順勢借力，高年級釀酒師的國酒夢
「在介紹自己以前，必須先致敬對方的文化與經
以茶入酒，成為許多外籍客人在台灣流連忘返
典。」好比如，他把Old Fashioned中必備，由龍
的理由。而在臨別之際，他們可以帶走哪一支作
膽草等藥草製成，風味厚實的苦精，以同樣具渾
為伴手？走在作為國家大門的桃園機場，免稅商
厚甘韻的凍頂烏龍取而代之，讓客人驚嘆詢問，店中陳列的各類酒款中，有一支特別的存在，是
為什麼Old Fashioned能如此香氣撲鼻？他再不疾由「賀木堂」推出，以高粱酒為基底的茶酒。
不徐地介紹，這一杯「Tungting Fashioned」，桂 2010年才成立的賀木堂，在眾酒廠當中堪稱年
花、龍眼的香氣來源，是來自台灣的凍頂烏龍。輕，不過，品牌的四位創辦人，均是在酒業服務
「我會取類似的元素取代經典元素，或者將超過30年以上的老將，他們是：前公賣局局長鄭
重要特色加以放大。」經過此番穿針引線，打開世津、前台灣菸酒公司總經理賴舜堂、前台灣菸
外國人對台灣的好奇，從茶酒說到台灣茶，說到酒公司董事長蔡木霖、前台灣菸酒公司總務課課
茶產區，再說到風土、物產的多樣性。還能適度長阮金賀。
引台灣茶與酒類比，讓外國人心領神會，「倘若賀木堂的成立，乘載著四人老驥伏櫪的壯心。
他們說，強調果香的法國波爾多紅酒很棒，我們擔任賀木堂董事長的蔡木霖談及，2002年時，民
也可以介紹，因小綠葉蟬著涎有著紅色漿果香氣間釀酒倏然開放，過渡期的市場，難免亂象紛
的東方美人。蘇格蘭說他們有高地威士忌，我們呈，甚至偶有假酒事件發生，這些社會議題成為
可以介紹，產在2,000公尺以上因為結霜才有的幾位高年級釀酒師聚會時的話題，繼而催生出他
冬片。當外國人提海島威士忌，我們也可以談產們的創業想法，「台灣實行專賣制度超過百年，
在低海拔的海濱、採重烘焙的海口茶。」如此一製酒技術都掌握在公賣局手上，開放之後，民間
來，能讓外國人為台灣留下深刻的印象。一窩蜂地做酒，但卻不知道如何做『好的酒』。
38
禁止酒駕 38
Dreams of a national alcoholic beverage Hometown’s chairman, recalls the situation after it be
Drinks made by adding tea to alcoholic beverages came legal for privatesector operators to brew or distill
are among the things that many foreign visitors find so their own alcoholic beverages in 2002. Inevitably there
attractive about Taiwan. When the time comes to leave, was a great deal of confusion in the market during the
what kind of drink can they take with them as a sou transitional phase, and there were incidents of counterfeit,
venir? At Taoyuan International Airport, the alcoholic adulterated, or even toxic beverages. These issues became
beverages on display in the dutyfree shop include one a common topic of conversation when these four old pros
very special option: a drink produced by the Home got together, and inspired them to found this enterprise.
town Liquor Corporation that is made by mixing Kao A potential national drink
liang (gaoliang, i.e. sorghum) liquor with tea. “Setting an example” implies the highest standards.
Hometown, founded in 2010, can be considered Hometown, whose product line mainly comprises
young in comparison with many other manufacturers Kaoliang based drinks, allows its founders to fulfill
of beers, wines, and liquors, but the brand’s four found professional dreams that they were unable to realize at
ers were all veterans with more than 30 years of expe TTL within the strictures of a governmentrun enter
rience in the industry. They are Zheng Shijin, former prise. Hometown’s brand image is one of dignity and
director of the Taiwan Tobacco and Wine Monopoly strength, but not without vigor. The flavors are created
Bureau; Lai Shuntang, former president of the Taiwan by combining Kaoliang liquor with Taiwanese agricul
Tobacco and Liquor Corporation (TTL); Tsai Muhlin, tural products, thereby demonstrating the abundance of
former TTL chairman; and Ruan Jinhe, former head of such products in Taiwan and the creativity of the drinks’
TTL’s Department of General Affairs. skilled producers. At Hometown, the sourcing of raw
The founding of Hometown represented the aspi materials is not limited by the Government Procurement
rations of these four industry veterans. Tsai Muhlin, Act, so the firm can select high-grade ingredients and it
積極發展茶酒系列的賀
木堂。
Hometown Liquor Corporation
has been actively developing
a series of tea–alcohol
beverages.
39
賀木堂創辦人鄭世津（左）與蔡
木霖（右）。
Two of Hometown Liquor’s founders:
Zheng Shijin (left) and Tsai Muh-lin (right).
因為在公賣局任職，我們才有機會累積技術上的陸羽」系列最受歡迎，包含高山茶酒、烏龍茶
實力，藉著退休後成立私人公司，也將技術帶了酒、阿薩姆茶酒等。
出來，希望為社會豎立下典範。」蔡木霖娓娓道說來，讓茶遇見酒，不是今人的創舉，「茶
來賀木堂成立的初心。酒採茗釀之，自然發酵蒸餾，其漿無色，茶香
自溢。」蘇軾在千年前，即有此異想天開。但
茶酒，可以是國酒
茶與酒相遇的形式，隨著時代的演進，終能臻
典範，代表了最高標準。以高粱酒產品為主力至成熟，有調酒師在吧台，運用最基本的浸漬
的賀木堂，彌補了公家單位未能完整實踐的職人（infuse），將適量茶葉浸泡在基酒，即成最簡易
夢。品牌形象，端莊大器，卻又不失活力。口味版的茶酒，但由於茶湯仍將持續氧化，必須即席
以高粱酒搭配台灣農產品為主，用以展現台灣豐飲用，不利長久保存。也有如王偉勳利用電磁攪
富的物產與職人創意。原料的取得，不再受採購拌器，以肖似煮塞風咖啡的方式，將茶葉萃取後
法之限，可以盡情選用上等材料，也更易於溯源過濾，成為高濃度「茶漿」，再加入其他風味，
品管。最關鍵的製程，從製麴、發酵、蒸餾的溫進而與酒結合。
度、壓力與流速，乃至對員工的訓練與要求，各至於成品看上去如水一般剔透澄淨的賀木堂，
方面細節都竭盡可能地顧得圓全。技術含量最高。製酒過程中的各變數經過整理與
不同於更普遍的液態發酵，賀木堂的高粱，調整，利用科學儀器的輔助，將茶葉與高粱酒共
採中式白酒的傳統製程，以麴餅進行固態發酵，同蒸餾，成為透明的茶酒，是茶還是酒，難辨彼
再逐一剔除掉不好的成分，豐富的微生物組成帶我，撲鼻酒香中，茶香縷縷不絕，同時能確保百
來豐富的香氣，滋味醇厚、層次紛繁，但又沒有年不壞。
高粱常見，因甲醇、酯類而發出的酒臭味。這一「茶酒，是最可以代表台灣的酒類。」蔡木
橫空出世的作品，實則上是「復刻」，「五、六霖認為。承繼了華人釀酒綿遠的文化內涵，與台
○年代司令官所喝的高粱，就是這個味道。」鄭灣的獨特物產。酒的寬容，茶的獨特，讓不同輩
世津相當自豪地說。而賀木堂的酒，均以此為基份、不同領域的專業人士從中取道，有志一同，
底，發展出34種口味，其中又以代表茶酒的「最各自打造出心目中，足以代表台灣的一滴入魂。□
40
禁止酒駕 40
is easier to implement traceability and quality control. made. Next, other flavors are added to the liquid tea and
They carefully oversee every detail of the most critical the final blend is combined with an alcoholic beverage.
steps in the production process, from the yeast starter Hometown, whose finished products are as trans
culture to fermentation to the temperature, pressure, parent as water, requires the highest level of technol
and rate of distillation, as well as the training and re ogy. They use scientific instruments to assist them in
quirements for staff. regulating and adjusting all the variables in the liquor
Hometown has developed Kaoliangbased beverages making process as they distill tealeaves and Kaoliang
in 34 flavors. The most popular are the “Tea Liquor” liquor together to create their clear tea–alcohol drink.
series, made by combining tea with alcohol, which in It is hard to say whether the resulting product is tea
cludes HighMountain Tea Liquor, Oolong Tea Liquor, or an alcoholic beverage, as there is a steady tea aroma
and Black Tea Liquor. amidst the alcohol fragrance. At the same time, their
In fact, combining tea with alcoholic beverages is products have a very long shelf life.
not a modern idea. But the form that this combination “Tea–alcohol drinks are the type of alcoholic bever
takes has evolved and matured over time. Today most age that can best represent Taiwan,” says Tsai Muhlin.
bartenders use the most basic method, infusion, im They build on the ancient cultural tradition of alcohol
mersing a suitable amount of tealeaves in a base alco production among ethnic Chinese people while also
holic beverage to make the simplest type of tea–alcohol incorporating Taiwan’s distinctive tea products. The
drink. However, because tea in its liquid form will compatibility of alcoholic beverages and the unique
rapidly oxidize, these drinks must be consumed right characteristics of tea make it possible for professionals
away, as they are not suited to longterm storage. Mean from different generations and different fields of exper
while some, like Aki Wang, use a magnetic stirrer to tise to find a common path forward. Working together,
produce a highly concentrated waterbased liquid tea, each can produce the kind of extraordinary beverage
after which the tealeaves are removed and the liquid is that in their minds best represents Taiwan. l
passed through a filter, similar to how syphon coffee is (Lynn Su/photos by Lin Min-hsuan/tr. by Phil Newell)
茶對台灣人相當日常，
以茶入酒更是自然而
然。
Tea is a part of everyday
life for Taiwanese, so it
makes a natural additive
for alcoholic beverages.
41
封面故事
COVER STORY
威士忌裡的台灣味
噶瑪蘭 +OMAR
美國影集《金融戰爭》裡，劇中的女演員
Maggie Siff喝了噶瑪蘭Vinho 葡萄酒桶威士忌
後，發出「Wo w∼」的讚嘆聲，男演員P a u l
Giamatti對她說：「沒錯吧！現在台灣的酒做得
比蘇格蘭好。」
文•曾蘭淑圖•莊坤儒、林格立版面設計•劉俊良
天氣清朗，蘭陽平原映照著層層山巒。位於
噶瑪蘭威士忌
宜蘭縣員山鄉的噶瑪蘭酒廠遊客如織，近一年來
湧入不少韓國遊客，原來韓國「防彈少年團」的
隊長RM，在一個脫口秀《SUCHWITA》節目中
推薦「噶瑪蘭經典獨奏Oloroso雪莉桶威士忌原
酒」，引發韓國旅客的造訪風潮。
Kavalan Whisky
噶瑪蘭酒廠自2008年推出第一瓶台灣本土釀
造的威士忌以後，截至2023年為止，總共在全球
各類威士忌競賽中，囊括了798面金牌；年產量
1,000萬瓶，名列世界前十大單一麥芽威士忌酒
廠，銷往世界60多個國家及地區。
究竟這不到20年歷史的酒廠做對了什麼，讓世
界因品酩台味威士忌而認識台灣？
噶瑪蘭威士忌酒廠是台灣威士忌的創始廠。
The Kavalan Whisky Distillery was Taiwan’s first whisky distiller.
找對了人，一炮而紅
金車集團創辦人李添財2005年創設威士忌酒
廠時，外界並不看好，內部更是亂成一團，高薪
聘請來的兩位蘇格蘭威士忌專家，無法拿捏台灣 S w a n的到來，有「威士忌界愛因斯坦」之稱的
不同於蘇格蘭的氣候環境與釀造條件，對於從磨 Jim Swan，針對台灣特殊的氣候、環境，重新調
麥、糖化、發酵到蒸餾的過程與參數，眾說紛整製程參數與定位。
紜，莫衷一是。 2006年與Jim Swan同一天報到的噶瑪蘭酒廠資
直到擁有生物與化學博士的蘇格蘭籍顧問J i m 深調酒師楊順清用「撥亂反正」來形容Jim Swan
42
Whisky, Taiwan Style:
Kavalan and Omar
T aiwanese whiskies have become so well known that they are now appearing on US-made TV shows.
During an episode of the American T V show Billions, a taste of Kavalan Solist Vinho Barrique
whisky elicits a “Wow!” from actress Maggie Siff, prompting co-star Paul Giamatti to respond: “Right?
The Taiwanese do it better than the Scots these days.”
We arrive at the Kavalan Distillery in Yilan’s Yuan- gle Cask Strength while a guest on Suchwita, a Korean
shan Township on a clear, bright day. There we learn TV talk show that involves chatting while tippling.
that South Korean tourists have been visiting the dis- Kavalan introduced Taiwan’s first domestically made
tillery in large numbers in recent years, in no small whisky in 2008 and has gone on to win 798 gold medals
part thanks to RM, leader of the South Korean boyband at international whisky competitions in the years since.
BTS, recommending Kavalan Solist Oloroso Sherry Sin- It now produces 10 million bottles of whisky per year,
43
噶瑪蘭烈酒研究所主任楊順清認為：「你只要喜歡
它，它就是屬於你最好的威士忌。」
Zerose Yang, head of Kavalan’s Spirits Research
Institute, says: “If you like our whisky, you’ll really like it.”
的貢獻。四年後，從海外傳來一個令人振奮的消節都重要。
息，開啟了噶瑪蘭威士忌在全球威士忌競賽中他指出，現今每年各項威士忌大賽無年分的類
「獎」不停的序幕。別中，噶瑪蘭威士忌由於富含濃郁果香、熟成度
這個消息是英國泰晤士報刊登台灣噶瑪蘭單夠，縱使在盲測的情況下，評審都能斷定是噶瑪
一麥芽威士忌，在蘇格蘭一項由威士忌鑑賞家進蘭威士忌酒廠，得獎已是常態。再加上因為台灣
行的「伯恩斯之夜」（Burns Night）」盲測中，位於亞熱帶，熟成速度是蘇格蘭的三倍，很難掩
以黑馬之姿，打敗三家蘇格蘭與一家英格蘭威蓋「來自台灣」的風味。
士忌，榮獲冠軍。亞熱帶台灣也能釀出好威士不論是主打原酒的單一風格，或是調配工藝的
忌，2010年麥芽威士忌年鑑（Malt Whisky Year 創作，針對普飲、收藏等不同的市場，噶瑪蘭威
Book）將台灣列入世界威士忌產區。士忌酒廠至今已有30款酒上市。
「你只要喜歡它，它就是屬於你最好的威士
找對方法，不斷得獎
忌。」自認是「酒鬼等級」的楊順清，推薦原
選用形似台北101大樓瓶身的噶瑪蘭經典單一汁原味的波本原酒（Cask strength），雖是高達
麥芽威士忌，至少在波本、雪莉橡木桶熟成滿四 58.6%的酒精強度，由於口感圓潤，甜感的感受
年以上，富有亞熱帶芒果、青蘋果、櫻桃的水果度更強，成為他平時在家心血來潮小酌，或是與
香，自2014年至2020年拿到29項威士忌競賽的金朋友小聚的基本配備。
牌，名副其實成為噶瑪蘭酒廠的「金」字招牌。如果心情不好想喝酒呢？「噶瑪蘭威士忌蘇
身兼烈酒研究所主任、首席化學分析師的楊順打調酒 KAVALAN Highball」這罐以經典單一麥
清反問道：「你知道設備、原料、製程、風土、芽威士忌為基底，強調辛口的威士忌調酒，楊順
職人，那一個因素最重要嗎？」答案是每一個環清開玩笑地說：「真的會愈喝愈辛酸。」特別的
噶瑪蘭酒廠是全球各類威士忌競賽中的常勝軍。
The Kavalan Distillery is a frequent winner in
international whisky competitions.
44
distributes its products to more than 60 countries and “brought order to chaos.” Yang tells us that these ef-
territories, and is one of the ten largest single-malt forts bore fruit in 2010, when a Kavalan single-malt
whisky producers in the world. whisky outperformed three Scottish and one English
The company has had great success in convincing whisky in a blind Burns Night tasting organized by
the world to taste Taiwanese whiskies. What has it the UK paper The Times. The surprise win turned out
done right? to be only the beginning of a long succession of inter-
The right people national awards and accolades for Kavalan whiskies.
King Car Group founder Lee Tien-tsai established The right methods
Kavalan Whisky in 2005. Sold in a bottle meant to suggest Taipei 101, the
The company then hired biochemist Jim Swan, single malt Kavalan Classic is aged at least four years
known as the “Einstein of whisky,” in 2006. Once on in oak bourbon and sherry casks and has a fruity
board, Swan tweaked Kavalan’s production processes flavor with notes of mango, green apple and cherry.
to account for Taiwan’s climate and environment. The whisky won 29 gold medals in competitions from
Zerose Yang, who joined Kavalan on the same day 2014 to 2020 and has truly become Kavalan’s “classic”
as Swan and serves as its senior blender, says Swan single malt.
亞熱帶島嶼的獨特氣候可以加快威士忌的熟成速率，同時帶來層次豐富的風味特性。
In Taiwan’s subtropical climate, whiskies mature quickly and acquire layers of distinctive flavors.
45
是，這罐調酒在日本賣得特別好，可能是日本人
壓力太大了，喜歡這種酒感強、氣泡感很重，回
甘辛口的酒。
楊順清透露，當年他提親的時候，則是帶著
Oloroso雪莉桶威士忌原酒。「亞熱帶氣候很能展
現雪莉桶中帶著太妃糖、果乾等風味的個性，加
上台灣人很喜歡雪莉桶厚重的風格，拿來送禮，
大氣、好看、又擱紅！」
展現製酒工藝，行銷各國
金車總經理李玉鼎有一句名言：「樹與樹的距橡木桶透過刨、烘、燒烤桶處理，既保有前身葡萄酒的香
氣，又回復桶活性，圖為燒烤桶。
離是風，人與人的距離是酒。」開發團隊銜他之 Oak barrels, which are infused with the aromas of the sherry
they once held, are refreshed by a process of shaving, toasting
命，開發下一世代經典款，「層豐雪莉三桶」便 and re-charring, in preparation for maturing a new batch of
應運而生。楊順清說，開發過程中，就廠內七種 whisky.
不同的雪莉桶原酒進行調配，經過長達一年多的
測試，終於勾兌出以Oloroso雪莉桶威士忌為主
軸，加入甜雪莉代表的PX（Pedro Ximénez）桶及忌實驗室」（WHISKY LAB），吸引各國喜歡威
Moscatel桶，呈現多層次、豐郁口感，適合不同士忌的遊客，一探台灣威士忌的多樣風味。
場合，餐前或餐後品酩的百搭款，亦展現噶瑪蘭為應付行銷60多國的通路訂單，尤其是機場免
酒廠的創作理念。稅店訂單爆增，其中又以歐洲、美國、韓國與中
疫情解封，國內外旅遊逐漸回溫，噶瑪蘭酒廠國名列前茅。金車噶瑪蘭酒廠目前正在興建熟成
自2019年開園至今已吸引超過1,000萬入園人次，三廠，預計2024年完工，希望未來讓全球更多人
尤其是可自行DIY，調配自己喜歡風味的「威士品嚐台灣威士忌的味道。
46
「威士忌實驗室」（WHISKY LAB），讓遊客聞香、
試飲，寫下試飲筆記後，可自行調配自己喜歡風味
的威士忌。
Kavalan’s Whisky Lab enables visitors to smell and
taste various whiskies, and then blend one that
perfectly matches their preferences.
Zerose Yang, who is also the chair of King Car’s brought along a bot tle of Kavalan Solist Oloroso
Spirits Research Institute and its chief chemist, says Sherry Single Cask Strength. “Taiwanese really enjoy
that Kavalan whiskies’ strong fruity aromas and suf- the extravagant flavors of a sherry cask, and our sub-
ficient maturation have made them regular winners in tropical climate really highlights the toffee and dried
blind testing in the “no age statement” category of in- fruit flavors of this kind of cask. This whisky makes a
ternational whisky competitions. Taiwan’s subtropical great gift. It’s stylish, looks good, and is even red!”
climate causes its whiskies to mature three times as International sales
fast as those aged in other regions, giving them their With domestic and international tourism picking
own unique “made in Taiwan” flavor profile. up since the lifting of pandemic restrictions, Kavalan
Kavalan has 30 whiskies on the market, including has received more than 10 million visitors since 2019.
cask strength and tempered bottles, that target both Its Whisky Lab, where guests can blend whiskies to
drinkers and collectors. their own taste and explore the many flavors of Tai-
“If you like it, you’ll really like it,” says Yang, rec- wanese whisky, is a particularly popular destination
ommending an unadulterated cask-strength ex-bour- for whisky lovers.
bon whisky. Though the spirit clocks in at a potent Kavalan is currently constructing a third distillery
58.6% ABV, it has a smooth and round mouthfeel and to meet strong global demand for its products, and es-
intense sweetness. Yang says he likes to enjoy a few pecially from duty-free shops in Europe, the US, Korea
glasses at home or with a few friends. and China. The company expects to complete the new
He also reveals that when he visited his fiancée’s facility in 2024 and hopes that it will enable still more
parents to discuss the wedding arrangements, he global citizens to experience Taiwanese whiskies.
噶瑪蘭燈籠型的蒸餾器，所蒸餾的酒液，酒體不太
厚也不太薄，取其中庸之道，達到酒體與酒香的最
佳平衡。
Kavalan’s lantern-shaped pot stills produce an alcohol
with a perfectly balanced body, neither too heavy nor
too light.
47
南投酒廠酒窖。
The barrel storehouse at the
Nantou Distillery.
南投酒廠入口處明顯的威士忌酒瓶，上面坐著「抽稅的天使」。
The angel seated on the oversized whisky bottle at the entrance to the Nantou
Distillery represents the “angel’s share.”
「浴火重生」這四個字，恰足以形容台灣菸酒公司南投酒廠，從921大地震的
OMAR威士忌
重創中東山再起；而浴火重生後的鳳凰，便是在全球六大威士忌競賽中囊括許
多大獎的「OMAR威士忌」。
中台灣的暖陽照著南投酒廠二層樓高的橡木南投酒廠設立的初衷，原是為了照
桶品酒室閃閃發亮，比人高的威士忌酒瓶上坐著顧台灣的果農，利用生產過剩的水果
Omar Whisky
「抽稅的天使」，引發威士忌愛好者會心的一來釀白蘭地與葡萄酒。
笑。造訪此酒廠，除了品飲全球獨一無二的荔原本即有生產蘇格蘭調和威士忌的
枝、柳丁風味威士忌外，也可以進行全台唯一從南投酒廠，為了彌補原酒的不足，2008年投入威
橡木桶取酒的桶邊品飲體驗。士忌麥芽工廠的生產線，由台灣第一位去蘇格蘭
學蒸餾學的前廠長林錦淡，調整參數，作出原酒
逆境轉身，風土優勢
威士忌。
1999年921大地震重創南投酒廠，六棟儲酒庫南投酒廠將自家蒸餾的威士忌品牌，以蘇格蘭
全部付之一炬。由於儲酒庫裡全是酒精，消防員的蓋雅古語 OMAR 命名，意指「琥珀」。歷經
無力救火，包括窖藏20∼30年的白蘭地，任其燒許多的實驗與測試，2015年推出全世界第一支，
了三天三夜，總損失達台幣40億元。也是全球唯一酒廠釀造的「荔枝酒單一純麥威士
天使抽稅（Angel’s share）
指威士忌藏放於橡木桶中，水與酒精會通過桶材蒸發，古時民智未開，以為是被天使喝掉，故稱為「天使抽稅」。
在蘇格蘭，每桶儲酒量的損失約為1.5∼3%；台灣由於潮溼，天使抽稅「稅率」為蘇格蘭的3倍左右，戲稱台灣的天使比
較會喝。
在台灣由於熟成速度快，一般在蘇格蘭12年才能裝瓶的威士忌，在台灣約4年即可裝瓶。
48
禁止酒駕 48
T he Nantou Distillery of the Taiwan Tobacco and Liquor Corporation (TTL) has enjoyed quite a re-
surgence since the Jiji earthquake reconstruction effort. You might well describe it as having arisen
from the ashes, with its Omar Whisky label the emergent phoenix.
The warm sunlight of Central Taiwan sparkles in- Jiji Earthquake and lost six of its warehouses to fire.
side the two-story-tall barrel-shaped tasting room, These had stored alcohol and blazed so intensely that
where the sight of an angel representing the “angel’s the fire department had no chance to extinguish the
share” sitting atop a giant bottle brings a smile to visit- flames, which burned for three days and three nights.
ing whisky fans. Distillery guests can not only taste its Included in the NT$4 billion in losses were brandies
unique lychee- and orange-flavored whiskies, but also that had been cellared at the distillery for 20 to 30 years.
sample whisky drawn straight from the cask. Established to support Taiwanese agriculture, the
Advantageous local conditions Nantou Distillery made wines and brandies from ex-
The Nantou Distillery was badly damaged by 1999’s cess domestic fruit production.
The Angel’s Share

The “angel’s share” refers to alcohol and water lost to evaporation while a whisky ages in an oak barrel. Before this evaporative
process was understood, people believed that this portion had been consumed by angels, hence the expression.
In Scotland, each barrel loses 1.5% to 3% of its volume per year. In Taiwan’s warmer climate, the angel’s share is three times
larger. Taiwan’s angels must be heavy drinkers!
49
O M A R威士忌品牌大使余政彥，每年約要主講150場品
酒會。
Omar Whisky brand ambassador Yu Cheng-yen speaks at
roughly 150 tastings per year.
水果威士忌正是把台灣的風土與水果王國的特色，裝入
酒中。
Taiwan’s fruit whiskies bottle elements of our domestic terroir,
culture, and history of fruit production.
忌」，正是累積40多年釀造水果酒的經驗與優
勢，首發款上市當天即搶購一空。
OMAR威士忌品牌大使余政彥指出，這支充滿
台灣水果風味的荔枝酒威士忌，使用彰化芬園黑
葉荔枝，分別用浸漬、發酵方式釀造酒精度12%
荔枝酒，再加入白蘭地提高酒精度，用荔枝促熟
酒去養橡木桶一至兩年，再放入已熟成四年波本
桶威士忌去過桶一至兩年，尾韻可啜飲出新鮮荔
枝的香氣。
就地採購信義鄉的梅子、中寮鄉的柳丁、彰化
二林葡萄等在地農產，以養桶、過桶的方式，陸
續推出的梅子、柳丁、黑后葡萄風味桶原酒威士
忌，還有全球第一支以桂花酒桶過桶的威士忌，
酒、紹興酒、高梁酒來過桶，只是紹興酒過桶後出
成為O M A R威士忌的一大特色，不只得到許多
現奇特的醬香味，不用說，又是一次失敗的經驗。
「台威迷」（「台灣威士忌」的簡稱）的共鳴，
唯一成功的是IPA啤酒桶威士忌原酒，特別請烏
尤其吸引日本品茗者的喜愛，展現了台灣獨特且
日啤酒廠開發精釀啤酒桶過桶後，拿來釀威士忌，
無可取代的風土韻味。
聞起來有啤酒花的香氣，但喝起來是威士忌，台啤
這些風味桶威士忌的上市，背後卻是一連串失
加台威，台味十足。
敗實驗所換來的成果。從頭即參與OMAR誕生的
余政彥說：「芒果、鳳梨、百香果等富有強烈果鎮廠之寶，奇貨可居
香味的水果，以及柑橘體系，我們全都做過，但一個新品牌打知名度，最好的辦法就是參賽得
大多以失敗告終，因為過桶後很難留住新鮮的果獎，為了出國比賽拿獎，南投酒廠特地成立十人
香味。」的品評小組，研究每場競賽歷年得獎的紀錄、評
為了做出獨一無二代表台灣的威士忌，酒廠研審的喜好，先從每年裝桶3,000顆橡木桶中，選出
發人員抱著「不設限」理念，余政彥認為：「大量 600桶高年份的威士忌，再選出前三名參賽。
實驗是讓我們品牌成長，走出全新之路的唯一方 OMAR單一麥芽威士忌自2014年起參加ISC、
法。」南投酒廠甚至與台大森林系合作，以台灣特 SFWSC、MMA、IWSC、WWA及CMB等多項國
有木頭取代橡木進行酒桶實驗，包括整合台灣菸酒際酒類競賽，已獲超過200面獎牌，在全球威士
公司旗下酒廠的酒桶也在實驗之列，例如以紅露忌版圖中搶占一席之地。
50
禁止酒駕 50
When the Nantou Distillery launched its own whisky Omar has even made a whisky finished in a craft-
brand in 2008, it chose to name it Omar, from the Scottish beer IPA cask developed by the TTL Wurih Brewery.
Gaelic word for “amber.” Drawing on its 40-plus years The resultant product has the hoppy nose of a beer,
of expertise in making fruit liquors, the company intro- but the palate and finish of a whisky, and brims with
duced the world’s first lychee-liqueur- barrel-finished Taiwanese flavor.
single-malt whisky in 2015, selling out the first batch on Rare and collectible
the day of its release. International competitions are a great way for new
Omar Whisky brand ambassador Yu Cheng-yen says brands to build a reputation. The Nantou Distillery
that this fruity, distinctively Taiwanese whisky uses ly- created in internal team of ten people specifically
chees from Fenyuan Township, Changhua County. These aimed at winning awards. The team researches each
are macerated and fermented to make a 12% ABV lychee competition’s awards history to identify which prod-
liqueur, the ABV of which is further raised by the addition ucts won awards and what the individual judges’
of brandy. The resultant liqueur is matured in oak casks, preferences are. It then selects 600 of the 3,000 casks
which the company retains. The distillery creates its ly-
chee whisky by first aging the whisky in a bourbon cask
for four years, and then transferring it to a lychee-liqueur-
seasoned cask to age for another one to two years. The
process adds a fresh lychee flavor to the whisky’s finish.
The distillery also makes cask-strength whiskies fin-
ished in plum-, orange- and black-queen-grape-liquor-
seasoned casks using plums from Xinyi Township,
oranges from Zhongliao Township, and grapes from Erlin
Township in Changhua County. Omar has also made the
world’s first osmanthus-liqueur-barrel-finished whisky.
These whiskies have a distinctly Taiwanese character that
has made them popular with both Taiwanese and Japa-
nese whisky aficionados.
參加酒廠活動可以學習許多威士忌的知識。
Participants in a distillery event learn a great
deal about whisky.
51
台灣多地震，價值二億元、按類似梯形矩陣排列的Solera1918雪莉桶，只靠枕木支撐，會不會倒？答案是，當2015年西班牙酒
廠主人親自到台灣擺上去，還原每一個在西班牙枕木的位置，擺完後，就沒有人敢更動了。
This wall of Solera-system PX sherry casks is worth NT$200 million, yet is held together by nothing more than wooden supports.
Nobody has dared to make any changes since the cask supplier personally ensured that the supports were placed just as they had
been in Spain.
造訪南投酒廠，莫錯過一面市價超過二億元的酒廠2008年開發產線時第一年蒸餾的威士忌。由
橡木桶牆，這裡存放著標榜自1918年Solera系統於「天使抽稅」的原因，每年桶內的水位都在
PX雪莉桶的威士忌。下降。2018年開始挑出四桶橡木桶，以水晶瓶裝
每年主講上百場品酒會、酒展的余政彥解釋，瓶，每桶可以裝入250瓶威士忌原酒，每瓶定價
Solera System是釀造雪莉酒的一種陳釀方式，就 10,000元；2023年一桶僅能裝200瓶，瓶身則與
像台灣製作老滷汁的概念。Solera1918即是自西台灣畫家馬白水的《太魯閣之美》、《墾丁》、
元1918年，使用高糖度Pedro Ximénez葡萄品種釀《南海岸》、《美濃鄉村人家》聯名，深具收藏
的PX雪莉酒，不斷陳釀的系統。及投資價值，目前一組四瓶市價預計將超過八萬
由於全球珍稀雪莉桶愈來愈少，2015年台灣菸元，而且都是尚未上市就預購一空。
酒公司從虎視眈眈的蘇格蘭酒商的競爭中脫穎而看好全球威士忌的市場，台灣菸酒公司正斥資
出，自創建近300年歷史的西班牙金三角雪莉酒 13億元興建二棟尖塔造型的威士忌酒堡，屆時可
產區酒莊Ximénez-Spínola，買進了整套珍稀的雪存放三萬顆橡木桶，還有微型博物館在內的威士
莉酒桶，據說是因為莊主有一位台灣媳婦，「有忌工廠，讓消費者可以進行五感體驗，預計2025
關係就沒有關係」。年完工，屆時可以讓更多的「台威迷」品酩深具
這套奇貨可居的雪莉酒桶，裡面裝的是南投台灣風土的好酒陳釀。 □
52
禁止酒駕 52
南投酒廠蒸餾室放置了四座洋蔥
型的蒸餾器，飄散著濃厚甘蔗的
甜香與麥芽蒸餾的酯香。
The Nantou Distillery’s four onion-
shaped pot stills fill the stillhouse
with the scent of sugar cane and
of the esters produced by distilling
the “wash” (fermented barley wort).
of whisky the distillery produces annually and be- made in 2008, the year the Nantou Distillery initiated
gins assessing them, eventually winnowing them whisky production. The distillery began selling this
down to the three that the company will submit to special whisky in 2018, bottling it in crystal bottles
competitions. at a rate of just four casks per year. Initially, each
Omar has entered its single malt whiskies in many cask produced 250 bottles of whisky that sold for
international tasting competitions since 2014, includ- NT$10,000 each, but the angel’s share means that the
ing the International Spirits Challenge, San Francisco amount of whisky in the remaining casks declines
World Spirits Competition, Malt Maniacs Awards, every year. By 2023, the angel’s share had reduced the
Inter nat iona l Wi ne & Spi r it Compet it ion, World volume to just 200 bottles per cask. In that year, the
Whisky Awards and Concours Mondial de Bruxelles. distillery chose to enhance the whisky’s collectability
The distillery has distinguished itself by accumulat- and investability by decorating each of the bottles
ing more than 200 medals to date. with one of four of painter Ma Pai-sui works: The
If you happen to visit the Nantou Distillery, be Beauty of Taroko, Kenting, Southern Coastline or Meinong
sure to check out the “oak cask wall” while you are Village Home. Sold out before they were even released,
there. Believe it or not, the “wall,” which is where the a set of four bottles is expected to be priced at more
distillery stores the whiskies aged in its Solera system than NT$80,000.
PX sherry casks, is worth more than NT$200 million! Convinced of the positive outlook for the global
Global competition for sherry casks is intense, but whisky market, TTL is investing NT$1.3 billion in
in 2015 TTL managed to outmaneuver Scottish dis- building two whisky chateaus with spires at the Nan-
tillers to acquire an entire set of sherry casks from tou Distillery that it expects to finish in 2025. Once
Ximénez-Spínola, a winery in Spain’s famous Jerez complete, these chateaus will house a whisky pro-
wine region with a nearly 300-year history. Rumor duction facility and small museum, store 30,000 oak
has it that TTL was able to arrange the deal because casks, and show visiting fans of Taiwanese whisky
the winery’s owner has a Taiwanese daughter-in-law. just how those whiskies are made. l
“Having connections makes things easier.” (Esther Tseng/photos by Kent Chuang and
This set of rare sherry casks is filled with whisky Jimmy Lin/tr. by Scott Williams)
53
好讀
三個深呼吸 ◎ 鄭育慧
月
一個大學剛畢業的女子罕見地選擇芳療，藉花香、草香、木香漫
拓在每一個她所服務過的老人身上，當精油的芳郁穿過鼻息，一
時間，苦水彷若化作甜泉。
她慶幸自己身為「白浪」（漢人），仍可以透過按摩，付出一點
勞力，進入部落裡去當小孩，享受長輩們的疼愛；透過芳療，短
暫參與他們的世界。
-------古碧玲（《上下游副刊》總編輯）
作品獲得評審團高度肯定，以芳療師身分書寫，文章包含了專業
花草知識、面對各種群體與創傷的體驗，也精準摹寫臺東在地植
物氣味、生態物種和地景地貌。
在醫者與病人之間的倫理書寫掌握距離極佳，更多展現自身的時
時觀照，可讀出她的生命脈絡，且將為之感動。
是一趟巡覽好文的旅程，
更是一回賞讀美篇的心靈停駐……
也是一段遍閱佳構的遨遊，
------江愚（國立臺東生活美學館館長）
透樟樹茂密的枝葉，滲進天主堂廣
三個深呼吸
場，閃爍的黃綠色斑光與樹影隨
一切日常的韻律都始於呼吸，我風輕晃。植物溫柔的芳香繚繞，我
們六位芳療師們進入部落，站在病感受到身體所觸及的另一個身體
人與老人家的身後，雙手穩穩搭著正緩緩起伏，呼吸加深了，如縱谷
他們的肩，無聲地以觸覺告知：我的風般綿延悠長，漸漸成為一顆深
們在這裡。邃寧靜的星球，有著獨特安穩的律
搓暖手心芬芳的精油，將帶有香動。
氣的雙手放到長者的鼻子前，植物身為定居廣大後山的芳療師，服
天然的香氣環抱著眼前的人們，也務的對象遍布整個臺東，從長濱到
圍繞著我們，我輕聲叮嚀：「三個大武，於是時常開著公務車，在依
深呼吸。」山傍海的狹長土地往返奔馳，進到
在臺東廣大的天空下，陽光穿各個部落的文健站（文化健康站）
或是日間照顧據點，為老人家與照在短短十分鐘按摩腿部的過程，
顧者們進行芳香按摩。這位失眠多日、無法入睡的大姐，
這種結合居家醫療與偏鄉長照就在溫柔的撫觸中，輕靠在修女身
的「行動芳療」模式，最早或許是上，安心熟睡了。同時現場瀰漫著
源自二○ ○九年八八風災的救援植物芬芳的氣味，無形中轉化了整
行動。個環境的氛圍。
那年莫拉克颱風重創臺灣，許多於是那位芳療師打電話給好友
人與賴以為生的家園一同遭受土們募集精油，盤算著長期支援所
石掩埋。炎熱的夏日，臺東嘉蘭的需：「人力的部分，至少有我在。」
一間國小化作災民緊急避難中心，十三年後，她依然待在臺東，香氣
聚集了許多失去親人、目睹家園被生了根，留了下來。
淹蓋的人們，驚嚇、恐慌、哀傷的
氣氛瀰漫。 * * * * * *
一位恰好從臺北來到臺東的芳
書名：《三個深呼吸》
療師N i c o l e也想為受災戶們盡些我初次遇上這個芳療團隊，是
作者：鄭育慧
心力，於是每日跟著醫院的救災團在二○一八年大學的寒假期間，我
頁數：256頁定價：360元
隊開車往返一條路況極差的狹窄已從花蓮返回新竹的家，和家人出版時間：2023年10月
山路。那是當時通往災區僅存的道團聚、準備過年，忽然一陣天搖地出版：寶瓶文化
路，據說從山路上俯看整條太麻里動，震動的玻璃窗像要碎裂，我的
溪，會發現曾經費心建築的房舍、第一個念頭是：「震央在哪？該不
橋梁、道路都變成了巨大的沙粒，會出事了吧？」果然看見新聞播報
成為只供回憶的殘骸，被棄置在更震央位於花蓮，幾棟大樓崩塌、公
加巨大的洪流裡。寓在河堤旁傾斜，另外，有朋友正精油，低調穿行在臨時避難收容中
第一位接受芳療服務的對象，是在招募芳療志工團隊，進入臨時避心，靜靜走在紛雜的人群和組合床
位負責煮飯的大姐。她也是受災戶難收容中心替受災戶做按摩，以香板中，這裡燈光總是明亮，所有擔
之一，災後時常胸悶頭痛、喘不過氣陪伴現場的人們。我立刻訂了回心餘震的人們都共同睡在沒有隔
氣，但仍然撐著身體，長期站立煮花蓮的火車票，儘管當時，我其實間的運動廣場。
大鍋飯菜餵飽所有災民，這讓她的任何按摩手法都不會。一位阿嬤床邊放著兩支柺杖，當
雙腿更加水腫了起來，腰和手臂痠從八八風災到花蓮震災，將近我蹲到她身邊，她說腰好痛啊，動
得發疼。十年，資深芳療師Nic ole已累積不了三十二次刀。我納悶著怎麼會動
醫療團隊趁空閒時請她稍坐下少救災、偏鄉照護的經驗，也成為這麼多次刀呢？一邊給她聞了香香
來，芳療師為她做了簡單的腿部按臺東聖母醫院芳香照護推廣中心的按摩滾珠瓶，裡頭有玫瑰、佛手
摩，就在這時刻，眾人詫異地發現的主任。我拿著他們從臺東帶來的柑、羅馬洋甘菊和真正薰衣草，散
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發舒緩撫慰的香甜氣息。和溫柔的氛圍。說來滿奇特的，那不太會講的丈夫。還有另一次，一
她自動解開束腰、掀起衣服，讓種香氣不僅僅是精油的氣味，絕位阿嬤將阿公推到我的面前，說阿
我將精油塗在她的腰上，我輕輕對不只是檸檬香茅加絲柏、大西洋公的手很僵硬，沒辦法自己拿湯匙
撫觸她布滿多道傷疤的腰背，首次雪松和永久花，還包含了一種無論吃飯，總是灑得到處都是，希望讓
明瞭到原來人的身體可以像是被走到哪裡，都能使人安全、感覺被我按摩後他的手可以靈活一點。
貼了好多塊補丁，活似有靈魂的拼溫暖包覆的氛圍。阿公的手托在輪椅上，手指變
布娃娃。於是我開始每個月都到臺東當形、關節腫脹，很明顯的退化性關
當我撫滑過這個彷彿拼湊起來芳療志工，跳上這群芳療師的公務節炎。我握住他冰冷的手，挑選合
的身軀，觸覺讓破碎的肌膚有了車，一起往返部落，為老人家與照適的精油，為每個指節仔細按摩，
延續，她側身瞇眼，天真得像隻撒顧者們做芳療按摩。我們走進依直到手掌漸漸有了溫度。我叮嚀
嬌的小貓，嚷著：「好舒服啊，好山傍海的小馬、有林鵰巡弋的泰源回去後要多注意手部保暖，尤其早
久沒有這麼舒服啊……」離開前，幽谷、海面廣闊閃亮的東河，她們上可以多熱敷，然而同時我也知
阿嬤害羞地問我：「你明天還會來說在臺東生活，任何事情都可以道，經歷了這次按摩，儘管回去有
嗎？再幫我用這罐按摩好不好？」轉化得很快，累的時候開車在路熱敷，阿公其實還是不太可能靠自
然而老人家的記憶似乎不怎麼可上，看看海，看看天空，疲憊就轉己的力量好好吃飯，也難免讓照
靠，隔天她就完全認不得我了呢。化掉了，這是生活在臺東的幸福。顧他的阿嬤不耐煩。
另外一張椅子上，一位奶奶身旁我向肯園的S u n n y 老師談起我
放著紅色助行器，我蹲在她身邊， * * * * * * 的困惑，有時候我真的覺得芳療
聽她說地震時衣櫃、桌子全都倒很沒用，質疑我們大老遠跑去部
下來了，所有東西掉得滿地，連助然而景色再美、天空再廣闊，真落按摩，但人那麼多，一位老人最
行器也被震走，她從十二樓的房間正加入這團隊工作後，我卻時常感多只分配得到十五分鐘，到底是在
爬出來，還好撿回一條命。到像在泥濘中爬行，漸漸發覺必做什麼？「尤其按摩過後，他們的
帶我服務這位阿嬤的芳療師，須習慣面對許多現實狀況。身體還是在壞啊。」
是兩位我現在的資深同事，她們分例如一位年滿七十、膝關節退老師回答：「你不要小看你們在
別蹲在阿嬤的左腳和右腳前，替化又末梢水腫的阿嬤，疲乏感覆做的事情，你們在做的，其實是一
她脫下鞋襪，塗上精油細心按摩，蓋了眼神裡可能存在的光芒，她卻種『膚慰』。在他們的生活裡，很少
我在一旁靜靜看著，記下她們的仍要負責照顧另一位坐在輪椅上有機會可以像這樣被好好對待。」
手法和動作，也記得了有一股香氣的阿公。那是她年邁中風、連話都我靜靜聽著這個回答，臉上刻
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意不顯露任何表情，然而我想起念；透過撫觸，經由肌膚，滲入內屬名Helichr ysum，意思是金黃的
有次活動現場，一位老榮民沉默在屬於靈魂的空間。太陽，在地上永恆發光。
坐在輪椅上，當同事的手放上他的所以，我該怎麼面對我們作為永久花的氣味並沒有一般花朵
肩膀，他的鼻子和眼眶就瞬間紅人類的這個身體，以及身體所承的甜美奔放，前調甚至有些苦澀，
了起來。後來我們才知道，這位老載的疾病、衰老與最終必然的消可能教人皺眉，但再聞久一些，
先生在臺灣沒有妻小，一個人生逝呢？這問題像是卡爾維諾《看會漸漸聞見類似龍眼乾的優雅清
活了好多年，一個人慢慢變老，或不見的城市》結尾，有人詢問旅行香，伴著一股蜂蜜般的甜── 經過
許真的很少有機會能感受到被呵者：「如果最後所有的潮流都將通時間沉澱的苦澀，轉化為安撫人
護、被溫柔觸碰吧。往地獄，一切都徒勞無用，那該怎心的恬靜尾韻，其上又增添許多
在學習按摩手法的過程，最初麼辦？」閃爍跳躍的金黃色斑點。
我總是專注忙於把動作記熟，練旅行者回答：「如果真有一個地菊科的學名A s t e r a c e a e，來自
習抓準肌肉的位置，提醒自己注意獄，它已經在這存在了，那是我們古希臘文的星星（A s t e r），用來形
各種技巧：服貼、緩慢、大面積包每天生活其間的地獄，是我們聚在容星形的頭狀花序，每朵菊花都
圍。直到有次練習結束，療程床上一起而形成的地獄。有兩種方法是由許多微小的舌狀花與管狀花
的前輩回饋：「流程都很熟悉了，可以逃離，不再受苦痛折磨。對大共同組成，一朵花其實就是層層
但就是缺少一種感覺，一種想好多數人而言，第一種方法比較容疊疊的一束花，花朵雖然渺小，卻
好愛這個身體的感覺。」易：接受地獄，成為它的一部分，彷彿匯聚了黑暗中的無數星芒。
再下一次的練習，我才恍然發直到你再也看不到它。第二種方法當星星與太陽交替出現，樟樹
現，當我帶著敬愛去和對方的身比較危險，而且需要時時戒慎憂又從大地萌生鮮綠的嫩芽，曬曬
體對話，明白眼前是一個完整的慮：在地獄裡頭，尋找並學習辨認太陽行光合作用，產生的葡萄糖
人，而非一堆骨骼與肌肉的時候，什麼人，以及什麼東西不是地獄，再轉化成芳香，我們這群芳療師
那樣的「觸碰」帶給彼此的感受是然後，讓它們繼續存活，給它們空們繼續帶著精油，行駛在東部的
很不一樣的。那些我反覆提醒自己間。」山海間，透過香氣與撫觸，和年老
要做到的穩定、服貼、包圍，很自在我們使用的按摩油中，的人們待在一起。一位vuvu（排灣
然地都能展現出來，說穿了，那些許多配方都加了義大利永久花族語，阿嬤之意）牽起我的手，像
該透過雙手表現出來的質地其實（Helichr ysum it alicum），這是是看到孩子回家，露出很開心的笑
並非技巧，而是一份「心念」── 以「化瘀」功效著名的菊科小黃容，這個笑容天真得更像一位快
一份想好好對待眼前這個人的心花，成群生長在地中海沿岸。蠟菊樂、興奮的孩童。我不會說族語，
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我們語言不通，只能用表情和肢聖母醫院芳香照護推廣中心的主我能足夠透徹，把生死都視作
體互動，把同樣的氣息吸進彼此任，曾帶著精油走過許多災難現自然的循環嗎？
的肺葉，肌膚觸碰肌膚，在吸吐之場，以香氣陪伴身心承受巨大衝身為必須不斷置身現場的芳療
間，以靈魂交流。擊的人們。師，究竟要站在何處，才能安穩正
或許我想成為的芳療師，並不我首次與 N i c o l e 老師相遇，起視必然的死別和病苦？
是懂得使用多少種功效驚人的精因於花蓮的震災，那時我還是個
油，而是身為一個人，能和他人有大學生，聽聞災情讓許多人無家可 * * * * * *
真心的互動、一起好好過生活。如歸，於是決定參與花蓮的芳療師
果時間必定會帶走健康的身體、們發起的芳療計畫，到避難收容抵達殯儀館，走向悲傷輔導室
消除珍貴的記憶，至少在共同存活中心當志工，N i c o l e老師也和小玫的路上，我瞥見路旁一隻白腹秧雞
的此刻，我們所行之處都瀰漫著植姐、阿媛從臺東帶了幾箱精油，一的屍體，牠已被移到一棵桃花心
物芬芳的氣息，「三個深呼吸」，同前來服務。木下；一旁的草叢傳來環頸雉雄
手放上肩膀，我看見眼前的老人家現場好幾位失眠多日的受災鳥拍翅、宣示領域的嘓嘓聲。更遠
們露出天真的笑，在香氣中瞇起戶，在短短二十分鐘的按摩中便處的鳳頭蒼鷹也發出求偶時的熱
雙眼，宛若初生的孩童。熟睡了，原本緊繃焦慮的收容中烈鳴叫，提醒我身處春季的野地，
心，充滿各種植物芬芳的氣息，在大地承載死亡，同時也生生不息。
讓香息縫補於無形香氣中，我注視著人們舒緩的面我跟隨N i c o l e老師的腳步再往
容，進而天真地相信了一個幸福浪前走，更往人群靠近，空中一隻白
如果選擇一個職業，是選擇一漫的幻想：無論走到怎麼樣的境尾八哥降落靈堂的屋頂，鮮黃的腳
種觀看世界的方式，我仍在摸索地，身為芳療師，就可以永遠和香爪踩踏三角形屋頂的尖端，對著
芳療師──與植物合作，將香氣引氣待在一起。底下布滿白帳的廣場，牠挺胸，開
入人間的角色 ── 怎麼回應這世然而這次前往殯儀館前，我卻嗓。
界所發生的一切？感到遲疑。進入安靜的室內，放起輕柔的
二○二一年清明連假過後，有兩面對失去孩子的父母，我做什音樂，家屬在我眼前的椅子坐了下
週的時間，我跟隨 N i c o l e 老師來麼都於事無補，那麼我該抱持什來，是一位兒子驟逝的母親。我打
到臺東市立殯儀館，為 0 4 0 2 太魯麼樣的心態進行工作？要怎麼才能開複方精油「心靈花園」，沒有解
閣號列車出軌事故罹難者的家屬穩穩陪伴正在經驗痛苦的他人，同釋任何成分，只將我帶有香氣的
們進行芳療。N i c o l e 老師是臺東時維持自己身為人的溫度？雙手放到她面前，輕輕搧動，請她
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深呼吸，讓香氣環繞她。接著我使覺到身體慢慢放鬆了下來，內在有迫的工作現場，芳療師要能精準理
用了按摩油達瑪，在她的肩膀和背個空間變得開闊，很好，呼吸加深解對方當下的身心狀況，即時挑選
上，輕柔地撫觸。了。最適切的精油，直接就對方所關切
她的身體漸漸變得柔軟，我順通常你不問，我就不會說，你確的重點提供需要的支持。
勢拿起她的手，安放上我的手肘，實可以好好滿足於這享受，不必敏銳的觀察力、對精油的了解
同時以另一隻手緩緩為她塗上按知道這個香氣裡含有什麼精油，與快速掌握，這是許多芳療師花
摩油。她嘆了口氣，瞬間，全身的但如果你懷抱好奇，那麼我也很費大量心力學習，但在現場鮮少
重量彷彿隨著這口氣掉了下來，我樂意告訴你：裡面有檸檬、甜橙、被詢問，也甚少被看見的無形功
感到生命的氣息失落，自己也如杜松漿果，它們是陽光下香甜圓滿課。
塵土，向下墜落。的果實，像充滿熱情力量的孩子，而看似只有肢體活動的按摩，
身旁一位女孩說起哥哥的哪些活潑地想探索這個世界更多；還有其實精華不在於任何可見的手法
部位透過鑑定找回來了，哪些部位檸檬薄荷、芳枸葉，你的呼吸會隨和動作。按摩，是一連串「喚醒覺
骨折，可能還要裝上義肢。「媽媽著這個氣息變得更加輕盈通透，知」的過程，芳療師本身必須足夠
說，就讓修復師慢慢修。」N i c o l e 腹部、胸腔、肩膀和頭皮也都會變沉穩寧靜，帶著純粹的心念，接受
老師輕輕為這女孩按摩，手放上得更輕鬆。按摩的人才能在觸覺與香氣的陪
她的肩膀，又撫滑過她的手。女孩如果你再聞得更深、更仔細一伴下，好好和身體相處，進行專屬
坐在椅子上，以生硬的語調，自顧些，對，讓身體更加放鬆，呼吸愈自己的身心整合。
自的，慢慢地說。來愈沉澱。你會發覺欖香脂和高芳療師的手，是意念的延伸，透
在各種植物精油與人的呼吸交大的喜馬拉雅雪松早已把你包圍，過肌膚的撫觸，體察每個瞬間各
織流動的氣息中，肌膚的撫觸、零守護在四周，形成穩固支撐的結部位觸覺感知的不同，配合呼吸
碎的語言，像是某種無形的縫補，界。在身體之內，香氣牽引記憶緩和表情的改變，即時隨之調整。在
和拼湊。緩流動，身心都舒緩下來，待在這芬芳的時刻，觸及身體裡的魂，這
「當你來到我面前，你可以坐在裡，很安全。」樣的溝通方式，比話語更精微、細
這張舒服的椅子上，閉上眼，或許這些話，我通常都不會說。緻，也更加誠實。
你會看見一片漆黑，這時我打開精在臨床的芳療工作，芳療師時常於是，我對芳療按摩的理解是：
油，請你聞聞心靈花園的氣味，你看起來像「單純在做按摩」，但事芳療師在芳香植物的陪伴下，邀
可以做幾個深深的呼吸，感覺植實上，按摩的背後有許多「無聲的請受作者的靈魂交流共舞，一同
物芬芳的氣息。同時，也許你會感工作」。尤其在個案量大、時間緊探索出新的身心平衡。
61
影像對話 PHOTO ESSAY
62
《光華》攝影徵件
地方創生與在地產業
Readers’ Photos
Local Industries and
Regional Revitalization
食農教育手工割稻（林立昇）
Food and Farming Education in Shuishang (Lin Lisheng)
嘉義縣水上鄉舉辦食農教育割稻體驗，讓大家一起來體驗農作的辛
苦與樂趣。積極推廣食農教育，以創造在地產業的發展，也藉此讓
孩子們更加了解自己的土地。
Chiayi County’s Shuishang Township hosts food and farming
workshops for participants to experience the trials and delights
of agriculture through harvesting rice. By actively promoting
food and agriculture education, the organizers help revitalize
the local economy and give children opportunities to learn about
their homeland.
63
藍染趣（蕭慶良）
Indigo Dyeing in Sanxia (Xiao Qingliang)
新北市三峽藍染節是三峽區地方創生的典範，藍染的工藝技術逐漸被推廣傳
承，透過染布教學重現藍染風情與魅力。河邊體驗藍染活動，提供了遊客共
同體驗溪谷藍染文化的時代風華！
The Indigo Dye Festival in New Taipei City’s Sanxia District is a perfect example
of local revitalization. By holding workshops, the festival draws public attention
to the charm of indigo dyeing, aiming to promote this traditional craft and keep
it alive. The riverside workshops offer opportunities for visitors to reimagine the
glory days of indigo dyeing in an evocative setting.
64
賞蚵田生態之旅（洪秀卿）
Oyster Farms in Wanggong (Hong Xiuqing)
王功漁港是彰化縣唯一的漁港，沿海潮間帶環境相當好，當地漁民多以養殖蚵仔維生，
進而發展許多觀光產業，搭乘鐵牛車挖蛤蜊，賞蚵田生態體驗之旅，自然資源甚是豐富。
Wanggong is the only fishing port in Changhua County. The estuary here offers ideal
environmental conditions for local aquaculturists, many of whom make a living by farming
oysters. The oyster industry has helped catalyze tourism. Visitors can take a ride on a
tractor and admire the oyster farm scenery, harvest clams, and learn about the ecosystem
of the intertidal zone, gaining insights into the rich natural resources here.
65
曬柿餅（張文雄）
Drying Persimmons in Xinpu (Zhang Wenxiong)
新埔因擁有得天獨厚的丘陵地形，以及乾燥少雨的氣候，每當秋冬來臨，當地人便會利用秋陽的炙熱與九降風的狂勁，
透過大自然的催化反應，達到烘乾柿子的作法，讓苦澀的柿子經過曝曬、乾燥與脫水等，轉變成甜香的柿餅。
Hsinchu County’s Xinpu Township has hilly terrain and a relatively dry climate. When autumn arrives locals begin to dry
persimmons, taking advantage of the intense heat of the autumn sun and the vigor of the northeasterly monsoon winds. The
sun-drying process removes the astringent flavor of the fruit, turning it into a sweet and fragrant dainty.
66
玉里小瑞士金針花季（廖良香）
Day Lilies in Yuli (Liao Liangxiang)
花蓮玉里赤科山農場擁有廣達四公頃的金針花田，四周被金針花海包圍，黃澄澄景色美不勝收。農場一方面透過金針
創造出經濟作物，另一方面可以帶動休閒旅遊的區域發展。
Chike Mountain Swiss Farm in Hualien County’s Yuli Township is home to four hectares of day lilies, covering the slopes
with an immense sea of yellow blossoms. The farmers grow day lilies as a cash crop, while also contributing to local
development by stimulating tourism.
慢遊池上（羅淑惠）
Wandering in Chishang (Luo Shuhui)
池上鄉擁有豐富的地質景觀與鄉土人文特質，這邊有著得天獨厚的縱谷景觀，孕育豐富的物產，以產米聞名，有著稻米
之鄉的稱號，是不可錯過的觀光勝地。池上米及秋收稻穗藝術節，更是聞名國際。
Taitung County’s Chishang Township is known for its remarkably rich geological features and local cultural attractions. The fertile
valley here offers an ideal environment for an abundance of crops. Especially famous for its rice, Chishang delights visitors with
a vast patchwork of paddy fields. The Autumn Rice Harvest Arts Festival here has also garnered international acclaim.
67
重現石門梯田（利勝章）
Rice Terraces in Shimen (Li Shengzhang)
新北市石門區的農村再生計畫喚起了在地記憶，推出農村體驗營，寓教於樂，學習插秧、割稻，認識自然生態，讓民眾重新捲起褲管下田耕作，不僅重現在地珍貴的歷
史文化地景，也讓梯田能重新發揮蓄水與耕作效用。
The rural regeneration program in New Taipei City’s Shimen District aims to reawaken shared local memories. Combining education with recreation, it stages agricultural
workshops where participants can try their hands at planting out rice seedlings or harvesting rice. Visitors get to know the natural environment intimately while
engaging in physical labor. The activities not only help revive local history and culture, but also enable the terraced fields to continue to play a crucial role in local water
conservation and agriculture.
陽明山竹仔湖海芋（王瑞夫）
Calla Lilies on Yangmingshan (Wang Ruifu)
竹子湖的海芋花季以兼顧水土保持、休閒
農業、環境生態與花卉產業發展。海芋盛
開時，苞片有如倒立的馬蹄，而植株如同
蓮花般生長在水中，因而又稱為馬蹄蓮。
The calla lilies in Yangmingshan’s Zhuzihu
play a vital role in local soil and water
conservation, recreational farming,
environmental protection, and floristry. The
white spathes of the flowers evoke images of
inverted horse’s hooves, and because calla
lilies grow in water like lotus flowers, one of
their names in Chinese is “horse hoof lotus.”
68
瑞里茶園步道（廖良香）
Ruili Tea Trail (Liao Liangxiang)
嘉義縣梅山鄉瑞峰村，登山步道融入茶園美景之中，一排一排茶樹構成數不清的綠色隧道，遠觀則陳列出幾何之美的樣貌，
在這裡可以環景享受茶鄉風光的景緻。
Ruifeng Village in Chiayi County’s Meishan Township has a hiking trail that winds through tea plantations. Rows of tea plants form
countless green tunnels, revealing their beautiful geometry when seen from a distance. Visitors come here to immerse themselves
in the charming panoramas of tea country.
69
70
台東鹿野熱氣球（王長霖）
Hot Air Balloons in Luye (Wang Changlin)
台東縣特有的夏季盛典，這裡有著光雕音樂會、無人機表演
及煙火秀，是每年夏天在東台灣最受旅客引領期盼的熱氣球
活動。在鹿野高台緩緩升空的熱氣球，那一刻就能為民眾帶
來無比的幸福感，不僅為台東的天空帶來美麗繽紛的色彩，
更可以吸引全世界的旅人來飽覽台臺東美景。
Luye Township in Taitung County hosts a summer festival
that includes a concert featuring light art, a drone show, and
a fireworks display. This is the most popular event in Eastern
Taiwan for tourists interested in hot air balloons. Watching
the balloons rising slowly from the Luye Highlands brings a
tremendous sense of satisfaction. The festival not only brings
gorgeous colors to Taitung’s sky but also serves as a magnet
for international visitors.
71
全球視野 GLOBAL OUTLOOK
Eduardo Euba。
Eduardo Euba, director
general of the Spanish
Chamber of Commerce
in Taipei.
「他」眼中的台灣
Eduardo Euba Aldape
Through Spanish Eyes: A Diplomat’s View of Taiwan

An Interview with Eduardo Euba Aldape, Director General
of the Spanish Chamber of Commerce in Taipei
文•李雨莘圖•林旻萱版面設計•蕭郢岑
72
S lightly different from the Portuguese and Dutch,
不同於葡萄牙人、荷蘭人的「福爾摩沙
（F o r m o s a）」，16世紀的西班牙人稱台灣為 who once referred to Taiwan as “Ilha Formosa,”
「艾爾摩莎（Hermosa）」，但一樣的是，意義 the Spaniards in the 16th century called Taiwan “Isla
皆代表「美麗之諸島」。 Hermosa.” These two monikers were alike in that

they both had the same meaning: “Beautiful Island.”
數百年之後，有位西班牙外交官也被台灣這
Centuries later, the beauty and welcoming at-
塊土地的美麗和熱情深深吸引，在填寫外派志願
mosphere of Taiwan have cast a spell on a Spanish
地時，毫不猶豫將「Taiwán」放在第一順位。 diplomat, who without hesitation listed “Taiwán”
as his top preference for an overseas posting.
派駐台灣，是優先選擇
A preference for Taiwan
「這裡假日的時候會有很多人，包含騎腳踏車、 “A lot of people come out here on weekends and hol-
散步、打網球、打籃球等等。」穿著運動服、牽著 idays to ride bikes, take walks, play tennis or basketball,
and whatnot.” Dressed in sports gear and pushing a
一輛台北隨處可借到的YouBike，西班牙商務辦
YouBike of the sort that can be rented just about any-
事處處長Eduardo Euba站在自行車道旁，和我們
where in Taipei, Director General Eduardo Euba Aldape
介紹位於基隆河16號水門外的美堤碼頭。
of the Spanish Chamber of Commerce in Taipei stands
他從2020年到任駐台北西班牙商務辦事處，至 on the riverside bike path and tells us about Meiti River-
今已三年多，公務繁忙之餘，喜歡閱讀、料理、 side Park, located along the Keelung River near the Meiti
登山還有騎自行車。 Evacuation Gate.
這塊從他住所路程僅需10分鐘的綠地，便是他 In the three-plus years since he was named as the
最常來運動的地方，甚至連騎哪個方向可以到淡 chamber’s director general in 2020, in addition to his

busy work schedule Euba’s favorite free-time pursuits
水或南港，他都瞭若指掌，乍時讓人忘記，其實
have included reading, cooking, hiking, and cycling.
他的故鄉是在距離台灣相當遙遠的西班牙。
This swath of greenery some ten minutes from his
他在西班牙國際經濟關係公部門服務資歷約30 home is where Euba comes most often to exercise. Indeed,
年，過去曾派駐至土耳其政治中心安卡拉、塞內 starting from this spot he can ride in one direction all the
加爾首都達卡，以及中國上海，而台灣是他職業 way to Tamsui, or head off in another direction to distant
生涯中的第四個派駐點。 Nangang. As he ticks off his beloved places and routines,
「我在填寫派駐地時，台北是唯一，且優先的 it’s easy to forget that he actually hails from far-off Spain.
Having spent some 30 years as a public functionary
選擇。」Eduardo Euba臉上揚起笑容，和我們說
working to promote Spain’s international economic rela-
起這段故事。
tions, Euba’s fourth overseas posting has brought him to
其實在正式派駐台灣前，他第一次來到台北，是
Taiwan.
11、12年前獲台灣外交部邀請的一趟工作旅程；第二 “When I was asked to state my preferences for over-
次則是派駐上海時，休期期間來台度假的私人行程。 seas postings, Taiwan was the only place I even listed.” A
不論是為了工作，還是休假來台，這兩次在 smile comes over Euba’s face as he recounts this episode.
台灣的經驗都讓他印象相當深刻，「因為台灣友 Prior to his official posting to Taiwan, he had already
善的人民和美麗的風景，讓我被這個國家深深吸 been here twice. On his first visit, 11 or 12 years ago,

he came to Taipei on a working trip at the invitation of
引。」Eduardo Euba說。
73
對台灣的各種面貌，涉獵甚
廣的Eduardo Euba總能信
手捻來，和我們侃侃而談。
Intimately familiar with many
aspects of life in Taiwan, （下圖）從畫中可以看出
Eduardo Euba chats easily with 北中南各地風格的鐵欄
us on a wide range of topics. 杆，到參考名畫《侍女》
的蓬蓬裙女士、描繪知名
藝術家畢卡索的中年男士
背影等，每個人物、背景
和物件都充滿濃濃西班牙
味。（江書逸提供）
(below) The metal gratings
in El Balcón reflect
regional styles in Spain,
while women in hoop
skirts call to mind those
portrayed in Las Meninas
by Velázquez. Chiang
also sketches a middle-
aged man reminiscent of a
fellow shown in silhouette
by Picasso. Every detail is
redolent of Spain. (courtesy
of Chiang Shu Yi)
正式派駐後，在台灣的生活也的確讓他相當滿
意。「所有到過台灣的外國人們應該都會同意，
在台灣只要你遇到困難，都會有人願意伸出援
手。」當以熱情著稱的西班牙人說出這句話時，
想必多數人應該都會認同，台灣人的人情味絕對
是數一數二地令人印象深刻。
那自然景色呢？歐洲擁有世界聞名的自然景觀，
西班牙亦是。不過，他表示，在西班牙首都馬德里若
想忙裡偷閒前往山林放鬆身心，需要花費不少交通時
間；但在台北，僅需十分鐘就可以走到山林間、河畔
旁，最佳範例便是他推薦的美堤河濱公園。
和我們分享完派駐台灣的休閒活動後，他揮揮
手和我們道別，愜意地踩著腳踏板，慢悠悠往淡
水方向前進，身影逐漸消失在落日的餘暉中。那
是他在公務之餘，難得擁有的閒暇時刻，因為平
常的他，其實相當忙碌。
方方面面，串起台西友誼
西班牙商務辦事處臉書專頁「西班牙在地台」
上，每天幾乎都可以看到Eduardo Euba親自出席
各項活動的貼文。
在秘書口中是位效率極高的他，雖然常常是
一人當好幾人用，但從政治、經濟、文化，到歷
史、藝術和教育等，不論什麼領域，他都不放過
任何能促進台灣與西班牙友誼的機會。
74
Taiwan’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs, and on the second no matter what the field, he never misses an opportu-
occasion, while posted in Shanghai, he came to Taipei nity to promote friendship between Taiwan and Spain.
for a short personal vacation. A very straightforward example can be found at the
Those two visits made a deep impression on him. Spanish Chamber of Commerce itself, where a painting
Says Euba: “The friendly people and the beautiful scen- entitled El Balcón (“The Balcony”) hangs on display at
ery really attracted me to this country.” the end of a Mediterranean blue corridor. It was Euba
Since being posted to Taiwan, he has come to feel who commissioned Taiwanese artist Chiang Shu Yi to
thoroughly enchanted by the Taiwanese way of life. create the work.
Asked to comment about Tai-
wan’s natural scenery, Euba notes
that if someone in Madrid feels
like spending some free time in the
hills, it will take quite a while to
get there, but in Taipei you can get
into the mountains or to a riverside
in just ten minutes, and there is no
better example than Meiti River-
side Park.
After telling us about how he
spends his free time in Taiwan,
Euba waves goodbye, marking the
end of a few rare moments in which
he has managed to get away from
his tightly packed work schedule.
Promoting friendship
The Spanish Chamber of Com-
merce in Taipei has a “Spain in Tai-
wan” Facebook page where posts
come out almost daily to report on
activities in which Euba has taken
part.
Euba’s work gets him involved
in many different matters, includ-
ing politics, economics, culture,
history, the arts, and education, but
掛畫完成後，江書逸（左）與Eduardo
Euba（右）在《陽台》（El Balcón）
前留下合影。（西班牙商務辦事處提
供）
After El Balcón was hung at the Spanish
Chamber of Commerce, Chiang Shu Yi
(left) and Eduardo Euba (right) posed for
a commemorative photo. (courtesy of the
Spanish Chamber of Commerce in Taipei)
75
最直接的例子，就在西班牙商務辦事處。倘江書逸轉述，將成品掛上牆面那一天，Eduardo
若親自拜訪辦事處，可以看到牆面上掛滿許多畫 E u b a仔細審視著畫中每個細節，並說：「M u y
作，其中，在地中海藍走廊盡頭的《陽台》（ El bien.（很好）。」短短一句話，讓他感到光榮，
Balcón），便是他在任期間邀請台灣藝術家江書如同古時畫師為教堂榮耀而畫，而他也對西班牙
逸繪製的作品。帶給他的溫暖、熱情而畫。
2021年辦公室整修期間，Eduardo Euba希望能除此之外，在例行舉辦的活動中，也能看到
在走廊掛上一幅代表西班牙的畫作，經過辦公室 Eduardo Euba獨特的巧思。
同仁一番尋覓，最終決定與2020年剛從西班牙學緊跟在中華民國國慶後，每年10月12日西班牙商
成歸國的江書逸合作。務辦事處都會在台北舉行國慶酒會，但近年活動觸
在被太陽眷戀的國度實際生活過，寫實派的角開始伸向其他縣市，包括台中、台南，2024年更
江書逸向Eduardo Euba提案，以更有溫度的插畫預計前往高雄，如此變化便是在他到任之後才出現。
風格，將西班牙藝術、歷史、名人和文化等元「台灣除了首都，還有其他城市、更多不同的
素，放進一個個獨具特色的陽台，就像當地每樣貌。」他認為，將國慶酒會帶到不同都市，會
個角落都帶給他驚喜一樣，希望這幅畫也可以是一個讓西班牙音樂、藝術和美食，透過活動在
讓每位來到西班牙辦事處的人，發現在畫裡埋不同城市宣傳開，並藉此加深西班牙與台灣各地
藏的彩蛋。城市交流的好機會，不僅可以讓更多台灣人認識
這幅幾乎與一個人同高的水彩畫，讓沒有窗戶西班牙這個國家，更可達到促進兩國之間文化、
的辦公室走廊盡頭，彷彿有陽光灑落。藝術等領域交流的目的。
位於基隆和平島的諸聖教堂遺址，是西班牙與台
灣在歷史上首次相遇的紀錄之一。（莊坤儒攝）
The remains of the Convento de Todos los Santos
(Convent of All Saints) on Heping Island, just offshore
from Keelung, are among the physical proofs of the
first-ever contacts between Spain and Taiwan.
(photo by Kent Chuang)
76
參與研討會，與學者共同探究台灣被稱為「艾爾摩莎」時的歷史軌跡，也是Eduardo Euba在台灣
的工作之一。（臺灣西班牙語學會提供）
Part of Eduardo Euba’s job involves attending academic conferences and talking with scholars about
the historical period when Taiwan was called “Hermosa” by the Spanish.
(courtesy of the Asociación Taiwanesa de Hispanistas)
When the chamber’s offices were being renovated in this case, the painting was his way of giving back
in 2021, Euba wanted to hang a painting that would some of the warmth that Spain had shown him.
be distinctively Spanish in style, and in the end he Euba’s creat ive touc h ca n also be noted i n t he
decided to have one executed by Chiang, who had just events and activities regularly staged by his office.
returned to Taiwan in 2020 after completing a master’s On October 12 every year, the Spanish Chamber of
degree in art in Spain. Commerce has long celebrated Spain’s National Day
Having lived for a time in sunny Spain, Chiang, in Taipei, but during Euba’s tenure the chamber has
who paints in a realist style, proposed to Euba that he begun holding celebrations in other parts of Taiwan,
would use warm-toned illustrations to insert images as well.
of well-known Spanish art, historic scenes, celebrities, “Besides the capital city, Taiwan has other cities
and cultural elements into a series of separate balco- and places that are quite different.” He feels that cel-
nies, each one very different from the rest. The intent ebrating Spain’s National Day in other cities gives
would be to encourage every person visiting the Span- people in other parts of Taiwan the chance to become
ish Chamber of Commerce to search for the delights familiar wit h Span ish music, arts, and food, and
hidden throughout the painting. generates good opportunities to deepen interactions
Chiang recalls that when the painting was first hung, among Spain and all parts of Taiwan.
Euba looked it over closely, focusing in on every de- It’s hard to talk about “getting to know Taiwan”
tail, and commented with pleasure: “Muy bien” (“very without mentioning the predictable topic of semicon-
good”). That one short remark filled Chiang with the ductors, but Euba notes that Taiwan is also rich in
sort of pride that a master of centuries past must have terms of culture, the arts, and history, and for exam-
felt after completing a painting for a cathedral. And ples he points to Taiwan’s Austronesian cultures and
77
Eduardo Euba與歐盟成員國駐台辦事處代表們，在金山共襄盛舉淨灘活動。
（西班牙商務辦事處提供）
Eduardo Euba and personnel from the Taiwan representative offices of other EU member nations are shown here taking
part in a joint beach cleanup activity in Jinshan. (courtesy of the Spanish Chamber of Commerce in Taipei)
說到認識台灣的角度，不免俗地提到國際聞只是這段歲月的痕跡，隨歷史洪流掩埋於塵土之
名的晶片。他認為，雖然台灣因為半導體的重要下，直至2019年，在台、西考古學家的聯合努力
性，而躍升世界舞台，但除了蓬勃經濟和產業發下，重現世人眼前，是為如今的和平島考古遺跡。
展，台灣其實還有豐富的文化、藝術和歷史等層而兩年後即將到來的2026年，正好是西班牙
面，例如南島文化和原住民族等，就像一個「包人首度踏上台灣土地的400周年，因此，Eduardo
裹（package）」，等待著世界來發掘。 Euba認為這是一個能讓更多西班牙國民注意到台
灣的好機會。
原來，我們這麼像
他指出，相較台灣，多數西班牙人因殖民時
而想要快速了解一個文化，最直接的切入點期的緣故，而對菲律賓有更多認識。但這在台的
便是飲食。當我們問到最喜歡的台灣美食時，短短16年，卻被Eduardo Euba視為相當重要的歷
Eduardo Euba選了許多外國觀光客也非常喜歡的小史，並希望能藉由400周年的機會，與台灣合作
籠包，並和我們推薦與一個個白嫩湯包有異曲同工舉辦系列活動，讓更多西班牙民眾可以注意到台
之妙的西班牙著名飲食文化「Tapas」。灣，進而產生踏上台灣土地的念頭。
西班牙飲食文化多樣，但當地政府向聯合國教「友誼建立在對彼此的認識上，」E d u a r d o
科文組織申請保護的，不是燉飯、烘蛋，卻是這 Euba如此說道，並接著提起希望同時促進台灣旅
些小份小份的點心。他說，Tapas不只是一份餐客前往西班牙旅遊的想法，讓台灣人也能親身體
點，更是親朋好友聚餐時，能一同分享美味食物驗同樣以熱情著稱的國度。雖然因為疫情影響，
的交流文化，他希望台灣人可以親自到西班牙餐讓訪西的台灣旅客人數一度大幅下滑，但他相當
廳品嘗Tapas，感受兩國同樣對食物有所堅持的文有自信，這樣的狀況會在今年大幅改善。
化內涵。這位笑容可掬的外交官，用自己獨到的視角和
除了對食物的堅持，他還說到，台灣與遠在幾方法，串聯起台灣與西班牙的友誼，下次若在路
萬公里外的西班牙在歷史軌跡上的重疊。上碰到他，不妨和這位台灣的朋友說聲：「Hola,
1626年至1642年間，西班牙人曾短暫來到基隆， cómo estás? （你好嗎？）」 l
78
indigenous peoples. It’s all like a package, he says, ish archeologists unearthed remains they left behind
that is waiting for the world to discover it. on Heping Island, just outside the entrance to Keelung
We are not so different Harbor. The team’s findings are now part of a well-
When asked about the Taiwanese food he likes best, known archeological site.
Euba names xiaolongbao steamed dumplings, which The year 2026, which is now just two years away,
are a favorite with foreign visitors. He then goes on will mark the 400th anniversary of the arrival of the
to recommend that we in Taiwan should get to know Spanish in Taiwan, which is why Euba feels this is a
Spain’s famed “tapas” culture. good opportunity to get more Spanish people to take
Tapas, he says, is more than this or that sort of dish, note of Taiwan.
but an entire way of socializing, where friends and He hopes to seize this opportunity to work with
relatives get together to share good food and good Taiwan in carrying out a series of activities designed
times. He would like to see Taiwanese people partake to raise Taiwan’s profile in Spain.
personally of tapas at Spanish restaurants so they can “Friendship is built on mutual understanding,”
feel how the people of both countries have similarly says Euba, who says he hopes to encourage Taiwanese
exacting culinary cultures. travelers to visit Spain so they can personally expe-
Besides food, Euba also mentions how Spain and rience life in a country that, like their own, is well
Taiwan first crossed paths very long ago. known for the warmth of its people. l
From 1626 to 1642, Spain had a presence in Kee- (Cindy Li/photos by Lin Min-hsuan/
lung, and in 2019 a joint team of Taiwanese and Span- tr. by David Mayer)
採訪完成後，Eduardo Euba和我們道別，
準備繼續沿著自行車道騎向淡水。
At the end of our interview, Eduardo Euba
waves goodbye and prepares to cycle away
on the bike path to Tamsui.
79
全球視野 GLOBAL OUTLOOK
台灣奇「玉」記
重返2000年前的玉器工廠
── 花蓮支亞干遺址
Jade the Obscure:
The Prehistoric Workshops
of Ciyakang
文•蘇俐穎圖•莊坤儒版面設計•蕭郢岑
來到支亞干，山麓上平坦的緩坡，太魯閣族取經日文，
將其命名為「Takaday」。
When the Truku people came to Ciyakang, they called this
area of gentle slopes “Takaday” after the Japanese word
for “high plateau.”
倘若不明究理，遊客對於並無大型景點的支名，將這片山麓上的緩坡命名為「Takaday」。
亞干，大多不會留下多麼深刻的印象。但時空若經過部落青年Apyang Imiq（漢名程廷）的解
倒流回兩千年以前，這一在東南亞規模無出其右說，山林間，原本一概不識的植物逐漸明朗了
的玉器工廠，絕對會令人大吃一驚。起來：有族人用來蓋屋頂的山棕；滋味辛辣的荖
葉；外型與姑婆芋肖似，用來製作芋頭糕的山
三支菸、三盅酒，入山以前，先向祖靈致意。芋；表皮堅韌，可以搓揉成繩子的構樹；因應市
腳踩在太魯閣族人傳說中，巨人腳印所踏之處，百場需求大規模種植的山蘇等。
年以前，因為日本殖民政府實施集團移住政策，看似空蕩的荒地，經過A p y a n g的悉心解說，
他們才從天祥一帶遷居到支亞干（Ciyakang），展現出層層疊疊的歷史紋理。有日治時期所留下
並從日語「たかだい」（高台、高崗之意）命的瓷碗碎片、陶製的清酒蓋、貯水的石槽與護坡
80
C iyakang might not leave a big impression on
the uninitiated. Yet visitors may be surprised
to learn that 2,000 years ago its workshops were the
kang, in what is now Xilin Village in Hualien County’s
Wanrong Township. From the Japanese word mean-
ing high plateau, they called the gentle slopes of this
largest producers of jade in all of Southeast Asia. mountainside “Takaday.”
Our guide, Apyang Imiq, grew up in Ciyakang.
Three cigarettes and three bowls of wine are left as Through his eyes, a seeming wasteland reveals its his-
offerings for the ancestors before we head up into the torical layers. From the modern era, there are shards of
mountains to a place that a Truku legend describes as energy drink Paolyta B bottles left by Truku laborers.
having been flattened by a giant’s footsteps. Some 100 From the Japanese era, there are fragments of porce-
years ago, under a Japanese policy of tribal relocation, a lain bowls, ceramic sake lids, stone cisterns, and earth
group of Truku people from Tianxiang moved to Ciya- retaining walls. And well camouflaged amid the grass
81
入列國寶的人獸形玉玦。（外交部資料）裝飾在頭部的玉鈴。（外交部資料）
This jade pendant depicting two human figures and a beast is listed as a national treasure. A decorative jade circlet. (MOFA file photo)
(MOFA file photo)
用的駁坎；近代的太魯閣族人在勞動後所喝的保的各種玉器，如：裝飾在頭部的玉鈴串飾；造型如
力達玻璃瓶碎片；以及隱藏在泥壤與草叢之間，吸管的圓柱型玉管；戴在手臂上的喇叭型手環；入
數量龐大，卻極容易忽略的石斧、石片刀鋸；以列國寶行伍，形如雙人並列，雙手叉腰，頭頂站著
及呈淡綠色，圓柱形或三角形等不規則形狀的玉一隻雲豹或鹿一類動物的「人獸形玉玦」等。
器廢料，這些物件「走路就可能踢到」的無所不而且，這樣的現象不單出現在卑南遺址，前中央
在，暗示著此處的非比尋常。研究院歷史語言研究所研究員、考古學家劉益昌便指
出，台灣百處以上的遺址，均可見陪葬玉器的存在。
獨領風騷的豐田玉
這些玉器的來源，除了外觀有著鐵、錳、鉻等元
這些起人疑竇的物件，身世可追溯到2,000至素形成的黑色斑點，經儀器檢測後，鋅元素的含量
4,000年前的新石器時代，也吸引了歷代如柯南一特別高，得以被確認為台灣出身。而在中央山脈東
般的考古學家聞聲而來。日籍學者鹿野忠雄是第側的荖腦山區，支亞干溪（壽豐溪）、荖溪、白鮑溪
一人，1929年時他便斷言，這裡可能存在著同時流經之處，則是台灣至今所知，唯一的玉礦所在處。
期東南亞一帶最大的玉器工坊。
「玉」──理解台灣史前文明的重要關鍵物
而這樣的議題，隨著戰後台灣考古研究的發展
逐步受到重視。尤其1980年代，台灣規模最大的豔陽下，我們與Apyang勤奮地揮汗，經過考古
史前遺跡──台東卑南遺址挖掘出土，與矗立在學家與花蓮縣考古博物館團隊的指導下，參與投入
地表上的大型石板同樣可觀的，是地底下的2,000 考古工作現場，或展開地表調查；或用手鏟挖掘土
多具石棺，以及超過萬件的玉飾陪葬品。壤，並以水清洗，篩揀出當中具價值的存在。未消
據出土文物顯示，顯而易見地，對尚未進入鐵片刻，大夥兒便陸續發現有著明顯經人工打製痕跡
器時代，材料選擇仍很有限的史前人類來說，經過的石斧；還有經人工切割的玉石與銳利的石鋸刀，
切鋸、打磨、拋光後，散發著幽綠光澤的玉石，兩者相互比對下，竟能吻合地鑲嵌。面對未知的挑
在當時是最能傳遞出審美品味，乃至身分地位的象戰，以及凝神投入後有所收穫的滿足，呼應著歷代
徵。足作為證明的，是被妥適裝點在已故親人周身以來，考古學家在此孜孜矻矻的心境寫照。
82
細長的中空玉管。（外交部資料）
Slender tubes of jade. (MOFA file photo)
and soil are all manner of stone axes, saws, and irregu- acteristics identify the jade as Taiwanese in origin. And
larly shaped jade remnants—pale green and cylindrical the area around Mt. Laonao on the eastern side of the
or triangular in shape. They are everywhere, and one Central Mountain Range (including the Ciyakang River
can’t help but walk over them. Their ubiquity bears watershed) is the only place on the island known to
witness to the remarkable legacy of this place. have jade deposits.
Unrivaled jade workshops Jade: A key to understanding prehistory
Dating to the Neolithic period, some 2,000–4,000 Under the guidance of archaeologists and a team
years ago, these artifacts have long attracted archaeolo- from the Hualien Archaeological Museum, we work
gists. The first to come was the Japanese scholar Tadao alongside Apyang under the hot sun. Some of us sur-
Kano (1906–1945), who in 1929 conjectured that Ta ka vey the surface, while others dig up soil and spray
day may have been the site of the largest jade work- water on what we unearth, hoping to find something
shops of their era in Southeast Asia. of value. We quickly discover artifacts that were clearly
The site only drew more attention as the field of Tai- crafted by human hands, such as stone axes and sharp
wanese archaeology developed after World War II. In stone saws as well as meticulously cut jade. To our sur-
the 1980s, excavation of the Beinan site in Taitung, the prise, the jade shows evidence of having been cut by
largest prehistoric site discovered in Taiwan, revealed those very same stone tools. We thus have a taste of the
not only large erect stone slabs on the surface but also satisfaction that archaeologists feel when hard work
more than 2,000 stone coffins buried underground, and dedication bear fruit.
along with over 10,000 jade artifacts. Building on Tadao Kano’s research, Liu Yichang
Archaeologist Liu Yichang, a former research fellow began a dig at the Ciyakang site in 1998. What has most
at the Institute of History and Philology of Academia astounded archaeologists is the huge quantities of an-
Sinica, has pointed out that these jade burial artifacts cient artifacts found in the cultural strata here. Shards
have now been found at over 100 sites across Taiwan. of discarded nephrite jade are particularly copious.
There are spots on them created by the presence Taiwanmined nephrite ranges in color from dark green
of iron, manganese, chromium, and the jade material to aquamarine and is commonly known as “Fengtian
contains unusually large amounts of zinc. These char- jade” or “Taiwan jade.”
83
當1998年，承襲著鹿野忠雄的研究基礎，在支作為製造源頭的支亞干一帶，對台灣史前文化發
亞干遺址啟動考古計畫的劉益昌，正是如此吧。展的重要性，無庸置疑。」接手劉益昌等前輩的
讓考古學家大為驚嘆的，便是這些藏身在「文化步履，近年在此進行考古研究的成功大學考古學
層」裡、數量龐大的古老文物。當中最為大宗的研究所副教授鍾國風如此說。此一席話，也說明
玉器廢料，是由民間俗稱「豐田玉」、「台灣了我們遠道來此的理由。
玉」的「閃玉」所製作，有著黝綠到青碧的不同
還原玉器加工工序，台灣謎樣的海上交易吸力
成色變化。──事實上，這些玉礦不僅大舉風行
於史前時代，戰後也曾因地質學家的「再發現」面對著支亞干遺址豐碩的發現，考古學家無
而轟動一時，1960至1970年代還創造出佔全球軟不好奇的是，這些形狀各異的玉器究竟是如何製
玉總產量60%的耀眼成績。作？由於南島語族並沒有文字，全然仰賴口述與
不同的是，玉器在一般人眼中是具有經濟價值個人記憶，當文明由新石器時代進入鐵器時代，
的裝飾物，對考古學家而言，是貫穿台灣數千年關乎玉器工藝乃至相關的文化，歷經長時的汰
來不同時代，富文化意涵的關鍵性文物。尤其，換，所有的蛛絲馬跡，有如被消磁了一般，紛紛
在人類文明邁進鐵器時代以前，必須經過冶煉，深埋在考古地層。舉凡玉器的加工方法、技術的
五顏六色的玻璃珠、瑪瑙、琉璃，甚至是鐵器、傳承、使用方式、工坊運作的方式、玉器消費與
銅器，均未出現，一枝獨秀的玉石，因其稀有、交換模式等議題，均成未解之謎。唯獨可確定的
貴重，加上手工賦予的工藝性、文化性，自然是，玉器製作的背後，涉及買賣、管理、交換、
而然成為台灣新石器時代人類用以區分身分、階運輸等結構複雜的社會體制，足以顯示當時的文
級、財富的上上之選。明已達相當的水平。
「又因玉器陪葬品的存在橫跨全台各地遺址，作為當年蓬勃興盛的大型玉器作坊，支亞干遺
因其特殊性與重要性，日治時期
開始，就有考古學家率隊前往。
Due to the site’s unique importance,
teams of archaeologists have been
coming here since the Japanese era.
84
鍾國風（左）承接前人步伐，近年在支亞干展開研究。
（鍾國風提供）
Following in the footsteps of earlier generations of scholars,
Chung Kuo-feng (left) has been conducting research at
Ciyakang in recent years. (courtesy of Chung Kuo-feng)
In the eyes of archaeologists, Taiwan jade artifacts archaeologists have naturally been curious about how
have more than just decorative value. They are, in fact, they were crafted. Since the Austronesian peoples his-
important cultural relics that span thousands of years of torically lacked writing, they were entirely reliant on
the island’s history. Before smelting techniques were de- oral traditions and memory to pass along information,
veloped in the Iron Age, there were no iron and bronze and when civilizations transitioned from the Neolithic
tools or colorful glass, crystal glass or agate beads. There to the Iron Age, jade craftsmanship and culture were
was, however, jade, which held unique significance gradually lost and forgotten, and are now preserved
during Taiwan’s Neolithic period due to its rarity, value, only within the archaeological record. What is certain
craftsmanship, and cultural importance. Symbolically, it is that behind the production of jade artifacts there lay
came to denote social status, class, and wealth. structurally complex societal systems involving trade,
Indeed, the Ciyakang area has been identified as the management, exchange, transportation, and more. This
source of the jade found in burial sites around Taiwan, complexity bears witness to a civilization that had ad-
giving it “unique importance to the prehistoric cultural vanced to a high level of sophistication.
development of Taiwan.” Walking in the footsteps of As the site of largescale jade workshops, Ciyakang
predecessors like Liu Yichang, Associate Professor offers something unique: Although finished jade ar-
Chung Kuofeng from the Institute of Archaeology at tifacts from here remain somewhat rare, a plethora of
National Cheng Kung University has been carrying out jade waste and processing tools have been left behind.
research in this area in recent years. His statement about Archaeologists are attempting to reconstruct the pro-
the site’s significance explains why we are here today. cess of crafting jade objects from raw stone by studying
Explaining prehistoric mysteries these artifacts and the remnants left over from the pro-
Faced with such an abundance of diverse artifacts, duction process.
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台灣玉因含有鐵、錳、鉻等元素，有著特殊的黑色雜點。
Taiwan jade has distinctive black spots resulting from the presence
of iron, manganese, chromium and other elements.
材料取得的方式主要有二：因颱風、暴雨的
沖刷，從河面、山溝直接撿拾（直到今日，若大
雨剛過，在礦區的河川上游仍不乏玉石原石的蹤
跡），或者直接到玉礦脈頭開採。
接著，工匠利用同樣來自中央山脈採集所得，
以石英片岩製作成的石鋸刀，先將玉礦原石切鋸
成貼近成品所需大小的方形。接著，將方角四邊
的銳角切掉，成為八邊形。
再來，將就近取材的竹管，底部鑲嵌上銳利的
石英刀片，作為「管狀旋截器」，以旋截器耐心地
從兩面旋切出空心。因為工匠會從兩端各別旋切，
址的特殊性在於，此地的玉器成品相當少見，反最後才在靠近中間的位置進行崩斷，故產生的玉核
之，留下了大量製作過程中留下的玉器廢料及加廢料中央往往留下明顯的突脊──考古學家稱這段
工工具。考古學家嘗試從中這些文物裡推敲、還程序為「截方取圓」。如此所得的環形玉料，可再
原玉器從原石加工的過程。進一步打磨、切割、加工，成為戴在耳朵上的玉玦
鍾國風解說，史前人類為了材料取得的方便，（有缺口的環形配飾）或者玉環等飾物。
工坊往往選擇坐落在材料源頭的鄰近，因為河床遺址現場挖掘到的大量四角形、圓柱形，以及
平地容易氾濫，靠近淺山的緩坡順理成章成為了帶有弧度的不規則形廢料，被視為加工過程的重
他們落腳居住的首選。要證明。一看即知的「人工」痕跡，還因切面過
考古學家根據遺址挖掘到的玉器廢料，嘗試恢復加工程序。
From discarded jade dug up at the site, archaeologists have been reconstructing how prehistoric artisans worked jade here.
86
（左圖）在加工過程中遺留下的各種玉器廢料，造型特殊的玉核（左）中央往往會有一條明顯的突脊。
（右圖）在竹管底部鑲嵌石英刀的管狀旋截器。
(left) A wide variety of remnants from jade processing have been found at Ciyakang.
Discarded cores often feature a distinct ridge.
(right) This length of bamboo with quartz teeth installed at one end is a reconstruction
of a tubular saw used for creating jade pipes.
From today’s perspective, prehistoric jade production, Southeast Asia. How did these jade objects reach such
executed entirely by hand, seems both laborintensive distant places? These questions only lead to more,
and primitive. Yet intriguingly it also demonstrated about ship design and navigation techniques. A soli-
technical prowess that is hard to match even today. For tary clue comes from the Zhishan Rock site in Taipei,
instance, how were jade bells, smaller than fingernails, where a fragmented jade artifact in the shape of a boat
crafted? What tools were used to hollow out extremely was unearthed. It appears to be carrying at least four
slender jade tubes? Archaeologists have found it very individuals and possibly even animals such as dogs. It
difficult to replicate these processes using modern tools. can’t help but spark our imaginations.
Archaeologist Hung Hsiaochun, a senior research Now a backwater, once a fashion hub
fellow in the Department of Archaeology and Natural One of the few things that archaeologists unani-
History at Australian National University, has led a mously agree upon with regard to the Beinan site is
team that excavated ear ornaments made from Taiwan- that its finished jade artifacts stand out in terms of
ese jade in various locations, including sites on Palawan their number and cultural sophistication—and by ex-
Island in the Philippines, as well as coastal areas of cen- tension the purchasing power of their society—when
tral and southern Vietnam, and central Thailand. Her compared to other contemporaneous sites in Taiwan
findings lend credence to the “Out of Taiwan” hypoth- or Southeast Asia. Bei nan could be likened to today’s
esis, which posits Taiwan as the “mother island” of the fashion capitals of Paris or New York—a hub of wealth,
Austronesianspeaking peoples. In addition to linguis- style and influence. As the leading source of crafted
tic and genetic evidence, the diffusion of Taiwanese jade jade, Ciyakang led not just Taiwan but all of Southeast
compellingly corroborates this theory. Asia in setting fashion trends.
Many questions remain. These Taiwanese jade ar- Excavated from Orchid Island and popular in South-
tifacts unearthed from Southeast Asia bear witness east Asia but not in Taiwan, “linglingo” jade earrings,
to thriving maritime trade. Yet it’s puzzling how pre- with three pointed protrusions, provide additional evi-
historic humans were able to travel so frequently to dence. They suggest that artisans of Ciyakang not only
87
民眾經過指導後，在文化層進行挖掘。
After receiving guidance, visitors dig in the cultural strata.
於不「自然」的銳利，一度讓鹿野忠雄誤判，這島語族的「母親島」，除了語言、構樹的DNA可茲
是金屬管旋切而得。後來，考古學家利用低倍數證明，台灣玉的移動與擴散，同樣是有力的佐證。
顯微鏡觀察切鋸痕跡，並以遺留在遺址現場大量然而，疑問接踵而來。這些從東南亞出土的台
的石片刀微痕為證，才確認了加工程序。灣玉文物，固然反映了當時代海洋貿易的興盛，
但史前人類竟有辦法如此頻繁地前往東南亞地
尺寸比指甲還小的玉鈴，史前的未解之謎
區，他們究竟是如何辦到？這些玉器又是在什麼
倘以今日文明發展的眼光來看，全面倚賴人手樣的脈絡下運抵遙遠的彼方？然而，舉凡船隻的
加工的史前玉器工藝，既手工、原始又耗時，然設計，以及航海技術與知識等相關問題，均難以
而值得玩味的是，與之同時並存的，是今日仍難求證，惟從台北芝山岩遺址曾出土一只破碎的船
以解釋的技術水平。好比如，尺寸比指甲還小的型玉器，船上至少四人共乘，甚至還有狗一類的
玉鈴，究竟如何製作？極其細長的中空玉管又是動物同船而行，讓後代的我們平添臆想。
用什麼工具加工而得？強調實證的實驗考古學家
今日的後山，往昔的海上時尚之都
嘗試以現代工具「復刻」，竟相當不易復原。
另外，旅澳考古學家、澳洲國立大學考古學和自獨獨可確定的是，考古學家咸認，出土大量玉
然史學系資深研究員洪曉純曾率團隊，陸續在菲律器成品的卑南遺址，在規模、文化水平及消費能
賓巴拉望島，越南中、南部的沿海，以及泰國中部力，放眼同時期的台灣或東南亞，都稱得上數一
等地，挖掘到由台灣玉製作的耳飾。此一發現，呼數二，倘若以今日的眼光來看，當時的卑南，類
應著人類學上出名的「出台灣說」──台灣作為南比於現在時尚薈萃的巴黎或紐約，實不為過。作
88
exported these items but also accepted instructions
to make jade items to order. They bear witness to how
knowledgeable the Austronesianspeaking peoples
were of geography and how adept they were at utiliz-
ing maritime resources.
This history may seem surprising today, when West-
ern Taiwan is routinely given precedence over Eastern
Taiwan. As Wen Mengwin from the Hualien Archae-
ological Museum puts it, “Ethnicity and society are
understood through stories, such as myths, that reflect
the values of the community.” The stories told by the
Ciya kang site hold particular significance now, espe-
cially for people living on the East Coast. After all, as
Wen points out, “What is now called ‘beyond the moun- 花蓮縣考古博物館展出支亞干遺址的相關文物，包含玉器
tains” was actually Taiwan’s front door back then!” 原石、管狀旋截器等。
The Hualien Archaeological Museum has a display of items
Community archaeology related to the Ciyakang site, including rough jade stones, pipe
With its unrivaled archaeological importance, Ciya drills, rotary cutters, and so forth.
kang was designated as a countylevel heritage site in

2010. That initially brought a strong backlash as it af- 由部落青年Apyang帶領民眾走往遺址，象徵著部落族人對
遺址內涵的認同與歷史文化的傳承。
fected the livelihoods of the Truku indigenous people Through his work guiding visitors to the Ciyakang site, Apyang
living there. In order to reach a consensus, the Minis- Imiq, a local Truku youth, symbolizes his people’s recognition of
the site’s importance as well as his generation’s inheritance of
try of Culture, archaeological teams, and community an historical and cultural legacy.
89
踏入鄰近支亞干遺址的花蓮
考古博物館，可進一步理解
考古學的相關知識。
Located near the Ciyakang
site, the Hualien Archaeological
Museum provides additional
opportunities to gain in-depth
knowledge about archaeology.
為玉器製造源頭的支亞干，則是引領全台，甚至取得共識，文化部、考古團隊與部落居民歷經超
整個東南亞地區的時尚重地哩。蘭嶼還曾出土、過十年以上鍥而不捨的溝通，並納入部落族人的
僅流行在東南亞地區的三突起玉玦耳飾「鈴鈴意見與土地權益，希望除了遺址的保存、維護，
翁」（Lingling-O）還可以從旁佐證，當時支亞也兼顧社區經濟創生，找到永續運作的一條路。
干的工匠不僅有能力「外銷」，甚至還能接單，即或考古乍聽離日常生活相距甚遙，但鍾國
利用台灣玉做「代工」生產。風表示：「考古遺址不只有學術價值，同時也具
足以見得，當時的南島語族是多麼諳曉且能擅用有跨世代與多元族群文化的當代性價值與社會責
海洋資源與地理條件的族群啊，「台灣玉在東南亞任。」對於生活在此的太魯閣族人而言更是如
環南海地區廣泛分布的情形，說明了海洋對史前人此，雖說，千年以前在此生活的史前人類，難以
來說不是阻隔而是道路，他們在環南海地區早就行被歸類為哪一原住民族，卻是台灣原住民族共同
動自如了。」台灣史前文化博物館副研究員黃國恩的祖先，倘若族人能理解遺址背後的文化意涵，
在〈跨越千年傳播萬里的台灣玉〉寫道。對歷史文化的累積與傳承也有莫大助益。
這樣的想像，對於今日相當習慣「重北輕目前，在文物現地保存及遺址活化的大方向
南」、「重西輕東」的我們，可謂別開生面。因下，花蓮縣考古博物館、考古團隊及社區居民三
此，花蓮縣考古博物館溫孟威特別強調：「民方攜手，推動以「考古學園」為名，結合社區部
族、社會，會藉由故事（好比神話）來理解族群落與公眾的永續考古行動。活動開場，由部落青
的價值，」支亞干遺址講述的故事對於現在的我年主動帶領遊客走往遺址現場，並講述支亞干當
們，尤其生活在東岸的人們，更是別具意義，畢代歷史的來龍去脈──此舉，象徵了當代原住民
竟，「現在被稱作『後山』的地方，在過去，其對於共有之文化遺產的理解、認同，乃至守護。
實是台灣的『前門』啊！」至於對一般民眾如我們，除了藉此初探考古工
作，也能從中理解數千年前台灣土地上，最原初
結合社區與大眾的考古行動
主人生活的面貌，並窺見人類文明文化共同的演
因其不言可喻的重要性，2010年起支亞干被指進與遞變，且從先民的生活樣貌中，凝塑與召喚
定為花蓮縣定遺址，但卻因影響到原本居住在此海島國家的共感。在這裡，對東岸，對大海，對
的太魯閣族人的生活，一度引起激烈反彈。為了台灣，有了截然不同的想像與啟發。 l
90
residents entered into talks that continued for more tors to the site, explaining the modern history of Ciya
than a decade. Aiming to respect the opinions and kang and conveying Taiwan’s indigenous peoples’
land rights of the tribal people, these stakeholders sense of identity and guardianship over their cultural
have worked to find a sustainable approach for pro- heritage. Heartfelt connections are built through these
tecting and preserving the site while fostering eco- interactions.
nomic development within the community. Apart from conveying basic knowledge of archaeo-
Aiming to both preserve and reinvigorate the site, logical work, these activities give the public a glimpse
the Hualien County Archaeological Museum, archae- into the lives of Taiwan’s earliest inhabitants. We be-
ological teams, and local community residents have come witnesses to the evolution of a civilization and
joined forces to initiate an ongoing archaeological en- culture and gain a sense of connection to Pacific is-
deavor called “Archaeology Academy.” The initiative land nations. The experience sparks our imaginations
stresses “sustainable archaeology” that involves both about Taiwan, the East Coast, and the sea. l
indigenous communities and the general public. These (Lynn Su/photos by Kent Chuang/
events begin with tribal youth actively guiding visi- tr. by Jonathan Barnard)
因河道忽然敞開，遷徙到此的太魯閣族人將支亞干溪命名為「打開的樹洞」（Rangah Qhuni）。
Because the river suddenly widens here, the Truku people who were relocated to this area named the
Ciyakang River “Rangah Qhuni” (“open tree gap”).
91
島嶼行旅 AROUND TAIWAN
竹子湖「花名在外」，因盛產海芋而享有盛名，但在100年前，她是台灣「蓬
萊米」的原種田。現今有農友成立穀東俱樂部，與台灣大學合作，在頂湖的一
分田復耕消失數十年的蓬萊米始祖「中村種」，再現百年前竹子湖的稻作景
象，續寫台灣稻作發展史上的動人篇章。
米飯是台灣人的主食之一，我們正餐吃的米大多是「蓬萊米」，而傳統的米
食，例如蘿蔔糕、碗粿、米粉等，則是使用「在來米」製成的。
台灣蓬萊米，其實是在日治時期育成而來的，近一百年來不斷地改良，品種已
逾200種，不僅有食用米，甚至有機能米、彩繪稻田的觀光用米……，這些蓬萊
米的始祖，原種田基地就在竹子湖。
竹子湖位於陽明山國家公園內，海拔約650至670公尺，原是35萬年前火山噴發
造成的「堰塞湖」，因侵蝕作用產生缺口，湖水逐漸流失枯竭形成一處窪地。她
的東側是七星山、北側為小觀音山、西臨大屯山，向南可俯瞰台北盆地，盆地中
央有高地，將該區劃分為東湖、頂湖及下湖三區。
Z huzihu (Bamboo Lake) is famous for its calla lilies, but 100 years ago it was the
first place in Taiwan where Japonica rice was cultivated. Today, farmers have
founded a club and worked with National Taiwan University to resume cultivation
of Nakamura rice, the precursor of Taiwanese Japonica rice varieties, on a subplot
of land in the Dinghu area of Zhuzihu. The people who have worked together to re-
plant this rice are writing a fascinating new chapter in the history of paddy rice
cultivation in Taiwan.
Rice is one of the main staple foods for Taiwanese. Most of the rice we eat with meals
today is Japonica rice, whereas many traditional rice-based foods, including radish cake,
wagui (savory rice pudding), and rice noodles, are made using Indica rice.
Japonica rice was introduced to Taiwan in the era of Japanese rule (1895–1945), but it has
been continually improved over time and today there are more than 200 varieties. Besides
edible Japonica rices there are also functional varieties, as well as colorful varieties that are
used to decorate rice fields for tourism purposes. The place where the ancestor of these Ja-
ponica varieties was first planted in Taiwan is Zhuzihu on Yangmingshan.
竹子湖農友組成穀東俱樂部，復耕百年前蓬萊米的「始祖」中村種。
Zhuzihu farmers have organized themselves into a club to resume
growing Nakamura rice, a Japonica variety that 100 years ago
became the progenitor of Taiwan’s Penglai rices.
92
竹子湖不只有「花名」
追尋領航台灣米的故事
More than Just Flowers
—Zhuzihu and the History
of Japonica Rice in Taiwan
文•郭美瑜圖•莊坤儒版面設計•馬英凱
93
每到春天，竹子湖的「海芋季活動」總是吸引快手快腳地將稻穀倒入風斗中，右手轉動著風鼓
滿滿的遊客上山賞花，海芋成了她的代名詞。但手把，左手上下搖晃著風鼓揠，稻穀便從風斗落
自2011年，社區居民及海芋農友開始追尋在地的入風穀箱。
稻米歷史：與湖田國小推動「稻鄉課程」，連結「你看，這些飄出來的是空包彈。」陳永如指
在地的稻米文化，農友還組成「竹子湖蓬萊米原著被風吹出的稻殼說，空殼與較輕的雜物會隨風
種田穀東俱樂部」，與台灣大學農藝學系推動復飄出風箱，較重的實穀會落入近端的斜出口。
耕蓬萊米，共耕「苗榜海芋花園」農主高于玄無路過的學童看到罕見的風鼓車在運轉，紛紛好
償提供的田地，2011年開始復耕台稉九號稻米，奇圍觀，有人忍不住動手體驗碾米的「樂趣」，
2016年更種回消失數十年的蓬萊米始祖「中村也有人邊轉動風鼓一邊驚呼：「哇，我是大力士
種」。耶。」陳永如則提醒學童離開風口：「這個（稻
穀）有稻毛，沾黏在身上，身體會癢喔。」
竹子湖「穀東」復耕「中村種」
稻穀就這樣重覆地被送進風鼓車，篩掉雜質，
「草山風，竹子湖雨，金包里大路」是形容粒粒飽滿的實穀接著被送進脫穀機脫殼；第一遍
陽明山氣候的台灣俗諺。12月的冬日，竹子湖微脫出粗糠，再次脫出米糠，最後碾出精米。粗糠
雨，氣溫較市區低了將近五度，遠山山頂雲霧飄與米糠作為有機肥，精米用來食用。「剛碾好的
渺，漫步在山嵐氤氳的山路，頗有詩意。此時，米最好吃，不要放太久，否則香氣會退得快。」
海芋花農、也是穀東俱樂部召集人的陳永如，帶陳永如說。
著經過日曬的三小袋「中村米」，到湖田國小借隔天，近20名穀東俱樂部成員與「磯永吉小
用設備碾米。屋」學會的志工，就齊聚苗榜餐廳，一邊享用中
網購的古董級風鼓車看起來歷經風霜，陳永如村米煮成的米飯，一邊分享種海芋、種稻的農事
（上圖）湖田國小學童看見罕見的風穀機在運轉，紛紛動手體驗。
（郭美瑜攝）
(above) When students from Hutian Elementary School see this
rare old winnower in action, they all want to try their hands at
operating it. (photo by Mei Kuo)
（左圖）竹子湖蓬萊米原種田榖東俱樂部召集人陳永如操作碾米機
碾米。（郭美瑜攝）
(left) Chen Yongru, head of the Zhuzihu Ponlai Rice Seed Field
Club, operates a rice milling machine. (photo by Mei Kuo)
94
竹子湖蓬萊米原種田榖東俱樂部的成員
齊聚，開心地品嚐新米。
Members of the Zhuzihu Ponlai
Rice Seed Field Club joyfully gather
together to try freshly harvested rice.
Zhuzihu is located in Yangmingshan National Park at points to rice husks flying out of the device and explains
an elevation of 650–670 meters. Each spring, the calla lily that empty husks and lightweight sundries are blown out
season there attracts crowds of visitors to admire the flow- by the fan’s draft. Meanwhile full grains of rice, which
ers, and the calla lily has become virtually synonymous are heavier, fall down into an outlet.
with the place. However, since 2011 Zhuzihu residents and The rice is passed repeatedly through the winnower to
lily farmers have been tracing the history of paddy rice in screen out impurities. Next, the remaining plump grains
this area and have restarted rice cultivation here. Farm- are put into a huller to remove the husks and bran, and
ers have even organized the “Zhuzihu Ponlai Rice Seed then milled to produce polished rice. The husks and bran
Field Club” and have been working with the Department can be turned into organic fertilizer, while polished rice is
of Agronomy at National Taiwan University (NTU) to eaten as food. “Freshly milled rice tastes best,” says Chen.
promote cultivation of Japonica rice. In 2016 they began re- “Don’t store it for too long, or it will lose its aroma.”
planting the Nakamura variety, the forerunner of Taiwan- The next day, nearly 20 people, including members of
ese Japonica varieties, which had disappeared for decades. the Seed Field Club and volunteers from the Eikichi Iso
Zhuzihu and Nakamura rice Historical Association, gather at the Miau-Ban Garden
When we arrive at Zhuzihu on a December day, it is Restaurant to enjoy a meal accompanied by Nakamura
drizzling and the temperature is 5°C lower than down in rice. As they eat, they discuss the cultivation of calla lil-
the city. At this time Chen Yongru, head of the Seed Field ies and paddy rice and exchange lighthearted anecdotes.
Club, is carrying three small bags of sun-dried Nakamura People in Taiwan today frequently eat Taikeng No. 9
rice to Hutian Experimental Elementary School, to use
their equipment to mill the rice.
The antique winnower that they purchased online
seems to have been through a lot. Chen Yongru deftly tips
the rice grains into the feeding hopper and uses his right
hand to turn the hand crank for the blower fan while with
his left he shakes the feed quantity regulator up and down.
“Look, the ones coming out here are all ‘blanks.’” Chen
竹子湖的「穀東」在意的不是中村米的口感，而是它蘊含了在地故事。
What the club members of Zhuzihu most care about isn’t the mouthfeel of
their Nakamura rice, but the stories behind it.
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與趣事。稻米，串起農村的濃情味。村種」種在高地成功，在平地多處栽培卻告失敗。
現今民眾常吃的台稉九號米，色澤剔透、口感
中村種、台中65號種苗的搖籃
Q彈，我們觀察，中村米略顯白，米粒中間還有
條棕色線，米飯有淡淡的飯香，口感則偏硬且有台灣大學農藝學系名譽教授謝兆樞說，當時擔
嚼勁。任台中州試驗農場（現為農業部台中區改良場）
「這在當時（日治時期）已是口感很好的米，主任的末永仁，受到台灣總督府農事試驗場技師
現在對穀東來說，這（中村種）是有故事的米，磯永吉的鼓勵，在1923年提出「幼苗插植法」，
不是好不好吃的問題。」陳永如說。成功改良、栽培中村種水稻，產量擴大，栽種面
積也由北往南拓展。
蓬萊米的故事
1926年由「伊予仙石」分離選出耐病品種的
明清時期，中國閩粵地區移民進入台灣，引入「嘉義晚二號」取代「中村種」普及全台。這一
秈稻品種。日治時期，日人吃不慣食味黏性不如年，時任總督府選出「蓬萊米」，作為在台灣栽
蓬萊米原種田事務所更名為故事館，並登錄為歷史建築，持續訴說台灣蓬萊米的故事。
The Penglai Rice Seed Field Office, now renamed the Zhuzihu Ponlai Rice Foundation Seed Field Story House, has
been registered as a heritage site, and continues to tell the story of Japonica rices in Taiwan.
日本型稻（稉稻）的秈稻，因而在台種植稉稻。培改良的新品種日本稻名稱，是取自台灣為「蓬

初期因稻熱病危害，加上台、日日照不同而影響萊仙島」之意，自此，蓬萊米成為在台灣種植日
稻米質量，因此在台灣展開稉稻的育種改良工本稉米的代名詞，秈稻則改稱「在來米」，取其
作。為台灣本地原有的稻米品種。
陽明山國家公園管理處表示，1921年台灣總督府學界研究，台灣水稻培育，以1924年末永仁
研究所農業部技師鈴田巖與州農會技手平澤龜一在台中場以「龜治」與「神力」稻種雜交，並在
郎，調查大屯山一帶產業時，發現竹子湖的氣候類 1929年選出「台中65號」的影響最鉅。謝兆樞
似九州，且三面環山，可避免品種因自然授粉雜說，「台中65號」具高產、良質、能抗稻熱病，
交，以及病蟲害感染的問題，有利於產出純正的稻並在竹子湖原種田採種，其後推廣全台，成為早
種，因此在竹子湖開闢原種田，但是日本稻型「中期台灣蓬萊米栽培的主流。
96
rice, which has translucent grains and a pleasantly firm a new method of planting out seedlings and successfully
texture. We notice that Nakamura rice is off-white, with grew Nakamura paddy rice at low elevations. Cultivation of
a brown line in the middle of the grain, and it has a very this variety expanded southward into Central Taiwan.
mild rice fragrance and a relatively harder texture. In 1926 a new disease-resistant variety, Chiayi Late No. 2,
Chen explains: “Back in the Japanese era, this rice was was bred from Iyo Sengoku rice, and it replaced Nakamura
considered to have a very good mouthfeel. But today, for rice throughout Taiwan. The same year, the colonial govern-
the club members, Nakamura rice is a variety with a mean- ment chose the name “Horai rice” in Japanese (“Penglai” in
ingful story behind it—it’s not a question of whether or not Mandarin, often spelled “Ponlai”) as the name for improved
it is better to eat.” varieties of Japonica rice developed in Taiwan. Indica rice
The story of Japonica rice was renamed “Zairai rice” (“native rice,” pronounced “Zailai”
During the Ming and Qing dynasties, when people from in Mandarin) to distinguish it from Penglai rice, as these In-
China’s Fujian and Guangdong began to migrate to Taiwan, dica varieties were already widely consumed in Taiwan.
they introduced Indica rice varieties to the island. During Academics have concluded that the most impactful mo-
the era of Japanese rule, Japanese couldn’t get used to eat- ment in Taiwan rice history was the breeding of Taichung
ing Indica rice, which has less flavor and is less sticky than No. 65 rice by Megumu Suenaga. This variety was selected
Japonica rice, so they set about breeding and improving Ja- in 1929 from among breeding lines produced by crossing the
ponica rice for cultivation in Taiwan. Kameji and Shinriki varieties, which Suenaga began in 1924.
The Yangmingshan National Park Headquarters notes Hsieh Jaw-shu says that Taichung No. 65 was high-yielding,
that in 1921 Iwao Suzuta, a specialist in the agriculture de- of superior quality, and resistant to rice blast. It was cul-
partment of the colonial government’s research institute, and tivated at the Zhuzihu seed nursery and later promoted
Kiichiro Hirazawa, a technician in the Taihoku Prefecture across Taiwan, becoming the main variety of Penglai rice
farmers’ association, were inspecting farming operations in grown here in the early days of Japonica cultivation.
the Datun Mountains and discovered that Zhuzihu, with
its higher elevation, had a climate similar to that of Kyushu
Island in Japan. Moreover, it was protected on its eastern,
竹子湖蓬萊米原種田故事館陳列古早的農耕景象與農具。
northern, and western sides by mountains, which could re- The Zhuzihu Ponlai Rice Foundation Seed Field Story House has
many early agricultural tools on display.
duce hybridization of rice through natural pollination. Hence
they established a Japonica rice seed nursery at Zhuzihu.
However, while they successfully cultivated Japanese Na-
kamura rice at this elevation, attempts to do so in the plains
met with failure.
Nakamura rice and Taichung No. 65
Hsieh Jaw-shu, professor emeritus in NTU’s Department
of Agronomy, states that in 1923 Megumu Suenaga, then di-
rector of the Taichu Prefecture agricultural research station
(today’s Taichung District Agricultural Research and Exten-
sion Station, DARES), with support from Eikichi Iso, a special-
ist at the government agricultural research station, proposed
97
中央研究院植物暨微生物學研究所特聘研究員
邢禹依說，最重要的是，台中65號一年兩穫，很
多雜交育種皆以之為親本，「台灣 85% 以上的蓬
萊米品種都是它的後代！」
台中區農業改良場也印證台中65號的重要；中
改場助理研究員鄧執庸說，至今200多種台灣水
稻品種中，台農60號、光復401號等，就是以台
中65號為父母本培育而來。中村種因不耐稻熱病
危害，在稻米品種的演進中，最終消失在台灣的
田野間。
而今竹子湖穀東俱樂部成功復耕中村種，台
台化人員檢測廢漁網，確認材質是尼龍6。（林格立攝）
大農藝系教授彭雲明說：「能種出來，有段很 Star jelly, or “lovers’ tears” as it is known in Taiwan, tastes great
fried with eggs.
感人的故事。」是經謝兆樞等人奔走，2014
年獲日本國立遺傳學研究所慨贈種子，並由台
中區農業改良場技術支援，隔年在台大復耕成
功，2016年種回竹子湖。夏季的竹子湖，繡球花接力綻放。
When summer comes to Zhuzihu, blooming
hydrangeas take over the show.
在竹子湖尋稻蹤
磯永吉在台負責稻作育種、研究工作，並創立
台北帝國大學理農學部熱帶農學第三講座（台大
農藝系的前身），他在台大的育種準備室（暱稱
「磯永吉小屋」）、1928年日本政府在竹子湖啟
用的蓬萊米原種田事務所及倉庫（現名為蓬萊米
原種田故事館），分別扮演日治時期蓬萊米學術
研發基地、原種繁殖場域，已為台北市文化局指
定為市定古蹟。
磯永吉被後人尊稱為蓬萊米之父，末永仁育種
蓬萊米，被後人尊稱為蓬萊米之母。已故奇美集
團創辦人許文龍，在2012年贈與台大其親塑末永
仁與磯永吉青銅像，如今立於故事館，持續訴說
台灣蓬萊米的故事。
近年台北市大地工程處整建竹子湖的多條灌溉
溝渠及溪畔，位於東湖、竹子湖社區入口處附近
白鷺鷥悠哉地漫步海芋田中，享受寧靜的山居歲月。
的水車寮步道，有一叉路通往日治時期地方仕紳 A little egret strolls casually among the fields of calla lilies,
enjoying the tranquility of its mountain home.
集資興建的「挨（ㄟ）米間」（碾米廠），雖僅
剩遺跡、一座水車及一面牆，但大地處在牆面旁
豎立一面玻璃牆，詳繪古早水車的構造，喚起人
們對農村的記憶與想像。例如，頂湖的陽明溪溪畔步道，大地處在溪岸運
用「花山砌石工法」，以天然塊石鑲嵌疊砌，營
溪溝整治建步道，串連「台北大縱走」
造自然野溪的樣貌。此步道長約330公尺，串連
溪畔的步道，現在是民眾休閒、運動的所在。煙波裊裊的小油坑、頂湖環狀步道，四通八達。
98
to rice blast, ultimately disappeared from Taiwan’s fields as
new cultivars were developed. But today the Zhuzihu Ponlai
Rice Seed Field Club has successfully resumed cultivation
of Nakamura rice. Professor Pong Yun-ming of NTU’s De-
partment of Agronomy says: “There is a touching story con-
nected to this.” Thanks to the efforts of Hsieh Jaw-shu and
others, in 2014 they received seeds from Japan’s National In-
stitute of Genetics, and with technical support from the Tai-
chung DARES, in 2015 this variety was successfully grown
at NTU, while cultivation resumed in Zhuzihu in 2016.
Tracing the trail of rice to Zhuzihu
Eikichi Iso worked on paddy rice breeding and research
in Taiwan, and he founded the predecessor to NTU’s De-
partment of Agronomy, in Taihoku Imperial University’s
Faculty of Science and Agriculture. He had a workshop at
the university, now known as the Iso House, for breeding
work, and in 1928 the colonial government set up the Peng-
lai Rice Seed Field Office (now the Zhuzihu Ponlai Rice
Foundation Seed Field Story House). These two locations
played key roles as bases for academic study and germ-
plasm propagation of Penglai rice in the Japanese era, and
today both are Taipei municipal heritage sites.
海芋已成竹子湖的代名詞。
Calla lilies have become synonymous with Zhuzihu.
Eikichi Iso has been dubbed “the father of Penglai rice”
by later generations, while Megumu Suenaga is known as
“the mother of Penglai rice.”
In recent years the Taipei City Geotechnical Engineering
Office (GEO) has rebuilt the banks of many irrigation chan-
nels and waterways around Zhuzihu. The Shuicheliao Trail,
located in Zhuzihu’s Donghu area, has a branch that leads to
the spot where in the Japanese era local gentry used pooled
capital to build a rice mill. Although all that remains of it is
a waterwheel and a wall, the GEO has put up a glass panel
next to the surviving wall that depicts in detail the structure
of early mills, awakening our memories and imaginations of
life in rural communities in days gone by.
Segments of the Taipei Grand Trail
The walking trails that the GEO has created alongside
various waterways have become great locations for citizens
to enjoy leisure time or get some exercise.
Hsing Yue-ie, distinguished research fellow at the Institute The Shuiweibalaka Trail, the Yangming Creek Creekside
of Plant and Microbial Biology at the Academia Sinica, says Trail, and the Dinghu Circular Trail are all part of the Tai-
that the most important thing was that Taichung No. 65 could pei Grand Trail, which links together Taipei’s five major
be harvested twice a year. Moreover, it has been a parent mountain chains. It offers hiking, tourism, and cultural
plant for many crossbred varieties produced in Taiwan: “Over experiences all in one go.
85% of Taiwanese Penglai rice varieties are its descendants!” The Calla Lily Circular Trail, in Zhuzihu’s Xiahu area,
Meanwhile the Nakamura variety, which is not resistant follows a stream and winds past calla lily fields. This is
99
陽明溪的其中一條支流為土石流潛勢溪流，大 the most popular trail with tourists who come to admire
地處整治後災害風險低，支流旁設有鐘聲幸福觀 the lilies at flowering season, and the city government has
景台，登高可以欣賞頂湖地區的景觀。 thoughtfully laid out a section of trail that is accessible for
頂湖的水尾巴拉卡步道連接大屯山及竹子湖， wheelchair users and other people with disabilities.
A fascinating chapter of history
步道原本的塊石鋪面改鋪透水材質，大地處還貼
Zhuzihu has passed through various phases in its eco-
心地鋪上木屑，改善濕滑也減輕膝蓋負擔，大大
nomic history. In the Qing Dynasty, the main crops grown
增加步行的舒適感。 there were tea, moso bamboo shoots, and citrus fruit.
水尾巴拉卡步道、陽明溪溪畔步道、頂湖環狀 Under Japanese rule these were replaced by Japonica rice.
步道，串連台北市五大山系的「台北大縱走」路 In the early period after the ROC government relocated
線，一次滿足健行、觀光與文化體驗。 to Taiwan in 1949, temperate-zone vegetables and flowers
下湖的海芋環狀步道沿著溪溝，蜿蜒在海芋農 were cultivated in the cool mountain environment here. In
the 1980s, in response to growing demand for recreational
園旁，花季期間是最熱門的賞花步道。
activities, a shift toward leisure farms began that contin-
再寫台灣稻米的動人篇章 ues today. A survey by the national park headquarters
revealed that farmers introduced Zhuzihu’s most famous
竹子湖的產業更迭，清代以茶業、孟宗竹、柑
cash crop, calla lilies, to the area as early as the 1960s.
橘為主，日治時期以蓬萊米為產業輪替，國民政 “We hadn’t grown paddy rice here for 40 years,” says
府來台時種植高冷蔬菜及花卉，1980年代因應休 Chen Yongru. Zhuzihu is where Japonica rice was first
閒旅遊需求，轉型為休閒觀光農業至今。陽管處 cultivated in Taiwan, and Chen adds: “We feel we should
調查，知名的經濟作物海芋，早在1960年代就由 bring back the glory of our predecessors and pass it along
農友引進種植。 to the future, so growing Nakamura rice is very signifi-

cant in terms of helping the next generation to remember
「我們已經40年沒有種稻了。」陳永如說，竹
the stories of this place.”
子湖是台灣第一粒稉米誕生的地方，復耕是很有
The next time you visit Zhuzihu, don’t limit yourself
意義的事。「我們覺得應該要承先啟後，重現前 to admiring the calla lilies and hydrangeas and enjoying
輩的榮光，讓下一代記得這裡的故事。」 a meal of free-range chicken with wild vegetables. It is
旅遊竹子湖，不只賞海芋、繡球花、吃野菜土 also well worth exploring the many local stories here. l
雞，更值得深度探訪蘊藏在地的豐饒故事。 l (Mei Kuo/photos by Kent Chuang/tr. by Phil Newell)
100
台北市大地處以生態工法整治溪溝，設立造景，讓竹子湖兼具健行、休閒功能。
The Taipei City Geotechnical Engineering Office has used eco-friendly construction methods to manage waterways and create
scenic spots, making Zhuzihu an ideal place for hiking and recreation.
水車寮步道的叉路可通往日治時期的水車遺跡。醒目的地景是熱門的打卡景點。
This branch of the Shuicheliao Trail leads to the remains of a Eye-catching scenic locations provide many popular places for
water-powered rice mill from the era of Japanese rule. travelers to “check in.”
竹子湖至今仍保有稻作遺跡及農村風情。（台北市大地工程處提供）竹子湖的步道串連「台北大縱走」路線，一路走訪台北五大山系。
Zhuizihu still retains its rural style, including its legacy of paddy rice The trails around Zhuzihu form part of the Taipei Grand Trail, which
cultivation. (courtesy of GEO) connect five major mountain ranges in the Taipei area.
101
產業新創 ENTREPRENEURSHIP
Tradition and Innovation:

The Protean Power of Instant Noodles
與俱進，經典滋味
百百款的台
灣泡麵
文•曾蘭淑
圖•林格立
版面設計•馬英凱
台灣文史作家曹銘宗在〈泡麵小史〉這篇文
章中提到，在台灣，雖然「速食麵」是比較正式
W ho invented instant noodles? In Taiwan, we
come across the forerunner of instant noodles,
the world’s first instant noodles with sauce packets
的用字，但一般都稱為「泡麵」，就是用開水泡
containing sumptuous chunks of meat, as well as
了就可以吃的麵。 those featuring distinctively local recipes that make
說到全球泡麵的始祖、全球第一款調理包的 use of Chinese medicinal herbs and huadiao, a classy
泡麵、以及加入花雕酒、藥膳等獨家配方的泡 cooking liquor made from glutinous rice.
麵，都可以在台灣找到。
In the 2017 film This Is Not What I Expected, the male
protagonist Lu Jin (played by the Japanese-Taiwanese ac-
「泡麵是孤獨的食物，是失眠人的好朋友，」
tor Takeshi Kaneshiro) opines that instant noodles belong
男神金城武在電影《喜歡你》裡，將對美食的挑
to lonely souls—people’s best friend on a sleepless night.
剔與完美主義用在速食麵上。他堅持：「泡麵在
Ever fussy about food, Lu applies his culinary perfection-
三分鐘煮透，但將透時未透，麵才最彈牙，時間 ism to instant noodles. “It takes three minutes for instant
是麵的敵人，這一秒的麵和下一秒的麵根本是完 noodles to be cooked through,” he says, “but that al dente
全兩碗不同的麵。」 bounciness happens only at the moment when the noodles
泡麵始祖在台灣？！
上市的速食麵。全球第一包企業化生產的速食
時間對泡麵麵條的軟硬很重要。麵，應該是來自被稱為「速食麵之父」、日清創
在泡麵史上則有一個重要的時間點，來到1946 辦人安藤百福在1958年所開發出來的。
年創立的彰化縣員林清記冰果室，早期夏天賣巧的是，安藤百福也與台灣有關，他是台裔
冰，冬天則以麵茶、雞絲麵為主。旅日作家劉黎日籍的企業家，本名吳百福，出身於嘉義縣朴子
兒、旅台資深媒體人野島剛皆曾為文指出，日本市。
泡麵的源頭是台灣的「雞絲麵」，而且比日本的論及台灣企業化生產的第一包速食麵，源自名
日清泡麵更早問市，指的就是這一家。立食品1967年自日本引進速食麵製造技術，可以
清記冰果室第三代接班人戴逸說，他的奶奶戴乾泡兩吃的雞汁麵──「生力麵」，可惜這家企
謝月鳳在1951年將麵線以豬油油炸，為的是煮起業因經營不善，已退出市場。
來快熟的效果，因為形狀像雞肉絲，就稱為Ke- 反而是歷史第二悠久的「統一麵」，如今全系
si-mī（雞絲麵的台語）。若客人只想外帶麵條，列的泡麵占了台灣市場的48%，成為泡麵產業的
就用土黃紙包著，附上冬菜、柴魚片、蒜酥等調龍頭。統一企業發言人凃忠正指出，以麵粉、飼
味料。料起家的統一企業，為了提升麵粉的利用價值，
作家曹銘宗認為，這種以麵線油炸做成的熟 1969年自日本考察後，1970年開始生產有調味粉
麵，只是小規模生產，還不能算是食品工業生產包的泡麵「統一麵」。
清記冰果室將麵線油炸後，即成為可以用水沖
泡的泡麵。
Deep-frying transforms Qingji Ice Dessert Parlor’s
noodles into veritable “instant noodles.” They only
need to be soaked briefly in boiling water before
being served.
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are just about to be cooked through. Time is the
enemy of noodles. Just one second’s difference will
result in a completely different bowl of noodles.”
Origins
What were the decisive moments in the history
of instant noodles? Qingji Ice Dessert Parlor opened
its doors in Yuanlin, Changhua County, in 1946. In
its early days, Qingji sold ice desserts in summer and
seasoned millet mush and jisi noodles in winter. Both
Japan-based Taiwanese writer Liu Li-er and Japanese
writer and journalist Tsuyoshi Nojima have suggested
that Taiwan’s jisi noodles are actually the prototype of
Japanese instant noodles. Qingji’s delectable invention in
fact predated Japan’s famous Nissin instant noodles.
Dai Yi, Qingji’s third-generation owner, tells us that it
was in 1951 that his grandmother Dai-Xie Yuefeng started
to prepare noodles by frying them in pork fat. The inten-
tion was to reduce the cooking time when they were later
彰化員林清記冰果室的雞絲麵被認為是泡麵的始祖。
Qingji Ice Dessert Parlor’s jisi (“shredded chicken”) noodles are
regarded as the prototype of instant noodles.
boiled in water. Because the crinkly fried noodles looked like

thin shreds of chicken meat, they came to be called “shredded
chicken noodles” (jisi mian in Mandarin, kesi mi in Taiwanese).
The world, however, probably owes its first commercially
manufactured instant noodles to Momofuku Ando (1910–2007),
founder of Nissin Food Products, who developed this new line
of products in 1958.
Nevertheless, Ando himself had close connections with Tai-
wan. A Japanese entrepreneur of Taiwanese origin, he was born
in today’s Puzi City in Chiayi County, his Taiwanese name be-
ing Go Pek-hok (Wu Baifu in Mandarin).
Taiwan is indebted for its first locally manufactured packets
of instant noodles to National Foods, which brought out the
chicken- flavored Sunlih Noodles in 1967. Unfortunately, the
company didn’t fare well subsequently and is no longer trading.
The second oldest, Tung-I Noodles, were developed by
Uni-President Enterprises, whose products still dominate the
industry today, occupying 48% of Taiwan’s instant noodles
market. Uni-President spokesman Tu Chung-cheng says that his
company originally specialized in the production of flour and
animal feeds. In order to enhance the practical uses of its flour,
Uni-President organized a research trip to Japan in 1969 and
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時間成就經典的味道可以回溯至1971年，當時
的統一企業總經理高清愿，招待日本客人到台南
度小月品嚐擔仔麵，「怎麼這麼香」，日本客人
的反應讓高清愿回到公司後，立即指示研發人員
將之商品化，就是同年推出的「統一肉燥麵」。
已經「53歲」的統一肉燥麵，將坐在竹凳上吃
擔仔麵的飲食特色，轉化為可以帶著走的泡麵。
經典的肉燥香，成為時光溫暖的回憶，自上市以
來，不只是統一企業，也是全台泡麵單一品項銷
剛採收的牡蠣經過滾筒擾動，殼、繩分離，蚵繩可
量排行榜上的第一名。全回收。
Recently harvested oysters are turned in a roller
machine to separate the oyster strings from the shells
so the former can be entirely recycled.
食品工業發展研究所資深研究員
陳麗婷認為，泡麵的發展史，反
映當地飲食脈絡的基底。
Chen Li-ting, senior research
scientist at Taiwan’s Food Industry
Research and Development
Institute, says that the history of
instant noodles yields insights into
local food culture.
習性。她以「80／20法則」形容台灣泡麵飲食風
經典不敗，80／20法則
味的變化，80%指的就是統一麵系列、四大天王
「麵好吃、湯好喝，就是那個味。」凃忠正等歷久不衰，仍受消費者喜愛歡迎的長青產品。
直指統一肉燥麵長銷的原因。統一企業1983年推
詮釋食品創新，泡麵是經典
出有牛腱肉料理包的滿漢大餐蔥燒牛肉麵，這是
請來名廚傅培梅研發的配方；1989年針對女性客依據80／20法則，亦是食品研究所企劃室策劃
層推出麵體只有55克的來一客杯麵；1991年針對與整合行銷單元主持人的陳麗婷指出，20%指的
國、高中生推出阿Q桶麵，每項系列的泡麵推出是創新的口味，能在試驗的過程中活下來，就有
均已超過30年，至今仍都是高掛在熱銷排行榜上可能成為未來80%中的長青產品。
的主力泡麵。如何詮釋食品的創新？陳麗婷認為，速食麵創
1973年台灣維力食品公司開發的炸醬麵，獨特新的邏輯，就像組合樂高玩具，將泡麵基本的元
鹹香的豆瓣醬包，成為「乾溼分離」速食乾麵的素──麵體、調味料與包裝，運用想像力，針對
始祖，網民連同味王公司原汁牛肉麵、味丹公司不同的TA，玩出千百種無限可能的樣態。
的味味A排骨雞麵，加上統一肉燥麵，並稱台灣她舉例說，創新的作法可以混搭、聯名，甚至
泡麵的「四大天王」，每一款都是超過30年的長是開發衝突的口味。例如五木拉麵與可樂果推出
青品牌。聯名炒麵，將壓碎的可樂果與避風塘炒蟹、川香
食品工業發展研究所（以下簡稱「食品研究口水雞炒麵做結合，吃麵還可以吃出趣味性。
所」）資深研究員陳麗婷指出，泡麵的發展史，為了與千禧世代連結，味丹將網友對雙響泡
可以反映當地飲食脈絡的基底，扣合飲食文化的「最難吃泡麵」、「太軟爛」等負評，轉化為推
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統一工廠內泡麵全自動化生產，現場仍配置許多人力進行品質的
管控。
工作人員駕著小山貓，翻動曝曬中的廢蚵繩及廢漁網。（莊坤
麵條經過切線刀、快速滾動的輸送帶造波，成為捲捲 Production of instant noodles in the factory of Uni-President
儒攝） Enterprises is entirely automated, but there are many workers on
的泡麵。
site for quality assurance.
Workers driving for
Machines a compact
makingwheel loader
instant turn over
noodles havepiles of waste
blades that
oystercut
shellstrings
dough intoand fishing
thin nets drying
strands, which in thecrinkled
are sun. (photo by Kent
on the
Chuang)
fast-moving conveyor belts.
began to manufacture instant noodles with sachets of fla- Ever-popular flavors

voring powders in the following year. “Delicious noodles, tasty soup—that’s just what we
In time, Uni-President would deliver a series of leg- want,” Tu Chung-cheng pinpoints the secret to the abid-
endary culinary masterstrokes. In 1971 Kao Ching-yuen, ing popularity of Tung-I Minced Pork Noodles. In 1983
then chairman of the company, treated his Japanese guests Uni-President brought out its Imperial Big Meal Chili Beef
to the famous danzai noodles at Tainan’s Du Hsiao Yueh Noodles, which included hearty chunks of beef shank in
restaurant—a flavorsome noodle soup graced with braised a sealed bag. In 1989 it went on to produce Laiyike cup
minced pork and prawns. “How do they make these smell noodles, targeting female customers. The year 1991 saw
so good?” The guests’ appreciative response inspired Kao the launch of its Ah Q “Barrel” Noodles—bigger-sized
to work on inventing danzai-flavored instant noodles, and cup noodles for high-school students. Each of these instant
Uni-President’s Tung-I Minced Pork Noodles came onto the noodle product lines is now more than 30 years old, but
market in the same year. they remain immensely popular with Taiwan’s consumers.
While many Taiwanese people have memories of eating Launched in 1973, Wei Lih Food Industrial’s Jah Jan
danzai noodles on traditional bamboo stools at local eateries, Noodles marked the arrival of a new type of instant
Tung-I Minced Pork Noodles, now 53 years old, have given noodles. Unlike previous products, these noodles, once
this vintage dainty a mobility that suits the modern age. The cooked, are supposed to be eaten “dry,” blended with
classic fragrance of braised pork that comes with it has itself Wei Lih’s signature savory soybean paste. The packet
entered the country’s collective memory, evoking a sense of also comes with a flavoring sachet for the broth, to be
old-time warmth. Since their launch, Tung-I Minced Pork consumed separately. Online commentators dub Jah Jan
Noodles have not only been Uni-President’s best-selling in- Noodles one of the “Four Kings of Instant Noodles.” The
stant noodle product but also topped national sales charts. others are Ve Wong’s Beef-Flavored Noodles, Vedan’s
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出沙茶鍋燒湯麵等新產品的動力，亦展現企業勇除了花雕雞麵、花雕酸菜牛肉麵、麻油雞麵
於改頭換「麵」的決心。等前三名暢銷款外，台灣菸酒公司善用其製酒實
力，使用陳年紹興酒做成料理酒包，再推出紹興
經典口味，變身相見
肉燥拉麵、紹興櫻花蝦拌麵；玉山茅台料理酒包
老牌食品廠金車集團2023年宣布重返泡麵市的蒜香茅台椒麻拌麵；酒香蒙古鍋拉麵使用十多
場，推出睽違30年的金車「漢寶」杯麵。原本種藥酒釀造五加皮料理酒、清酒粕，讓泡麵的湯
80%的經典口味，則必須不斷提醒消費者，藉此頭更濃郁、有層次，都是台灣限定的泡麵產品。
拉近與客群之間的距離。而味王公司也推出威士忌桶麵，搶攻超商通路。
陳麗婷認為，全球每年至少有30萬款新的飲食
與「食」俱進，潔淨高值是趨勢
產品問市，泡麵業者面臨如此嚴峻的競爭，透過
復刻、包裝來變身，才能創造食品的火花。「泡麵更是與『食』俱進的象徵，什麼時代
吃什麼樣的食物，從易保存、便利，到千禧世代
吃泡麵的邏輯，可以很『跳』，也可以與質感
生活串接。」陳麗婷指出，由經濟部產業發展署
主辦，食品研究所承辦的「新味食潮FUN FOOD
TAIWAN」競賽，強調潔淨高值、設計體驗及便
利永續的指標，可以是觀察泡麵創新的趨勢。
她以麵體的創新為例，為迎合健康的趨勢，從
油炸到非油炸；縱使是用泡的，麵體的口感與層
次，也要像現煮的麵一樣，彷彿在拉麵店吃現煮
拉麵的感受。
例如2023年統一企業獲得「新味食潮」銀質獎
的非油炸直麵與龍捲寬麵，即是由技術支撐的創
新。
擁有豐富的製酒實力，台灣菸酒公司推出料理酒包的泡麵，
成為台灣泡麵的一大特色。(莊坤儒攝)
凃忠正透露，沖泡式非油炸麵是統一企業花
With its rich experience of producing alcoholic beverages, 了15年時間才研發出來的產品，後端脫水過程
Taiwan Tobacco and Liquor Corporation has launched a series
of instant noodles accompanied by condiment packs made with 中，以烘乾替代傳統油炸，因此製麵時間是傳統
cooking liquors. These are distinctively Taiwanese flavors.
(photo by Kent Chuang) 泡麵的兩倍。統一企業商業研究中心參考市調、
7-ELEVEN實際銷售數字，推出搭配川式紅油包
的花椒擔擔麵，以及有高麗菜等配料的青蔬椒麻
麵，參加2023年在比利時舉辦的I T I國際風味評
她舉例，強調大份量、具有兩塊麵的雙響炮，鑑，猶如現煮麵的口感，成為台灣第一碗獲得風
用漫畫來變身，增加能見度，亦可帶動其他系列味絕佳獎章二星獎的沖泡式非油炸泡麵。
的產品。小份量的泡麵變得更小，例如韓式泡泡麵的第二要素──調味料，則是要能因應食
菜、蕃茄蔬菜風味維力迷你麵，標榜加180cc的水品潔淨標示的趨勢，透過製程、包裝，減少化學
沖泡，只有90大卡。添加物。
滿漢大餐推出升級版的「金牛肉麵」，研發至於便利永續的部分，鼓勵廠商使用環保包
人員特地到四川蹲點，找到「黃燈籠辣椒」，為材，或是使用在地食材，例如味王「惦惦吃乾拌
湯頭注入了酸甜香辣的層次感；或是只在年節麵」，在麵體中添加新鮮南瓜泥，並使用非油炸
推出、一碗要價248元的「滿漢御品火巴燒牛肉方式製麵，雖非泡麵，但標榜在地風味，又結合
麵」，訴求送禮市場。健康的趨勢。
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Chicken-Flavored Noodles, and Uni-President’s Tung-I repackaging and relaunching classic flavors. Only by doing
Minced Pork Noodles. so can individual brands stand out in a world inundated
Chen Li-ting, senior research scientist at Taiwan’s Food with upwards of 300,000 new food products every year.
Industry Research and Development Institute (FIRDI), She draws our attention to Uni-President’s upgraded
says that the history of instant noodles can yield insights Gold Beef Noodles, a new addition to the Imperial Big
into local food culture, as it is closely bound up with deep- Meal series. For this the company’s R&Dstaff traveled to
seated culinary habits. She applies what she calls an “80/20 China’s Sichuan Province, where they discovered the “Yel-
rule” to describe the evolution of Taiwan’s culture of in- low Lantern” chili pepper (a variety of Capsicum chinense).
stant noodles. The higher percentage, 80, refers to endur- This magic ingredient lends a multiplicity of flavors to the
ingly popular products like Tung-I Noodles and the rest of broth—sour, sweet, spicy, with a pleasant scent. Designed
the Four Kings. for the Lunar New Year, Uni-President’s Imperial Pashao
Competing for classic status Beef Noodles, which cost NT$248 per serving, are avail-
Chen, who is responsible for planning and integrated able only during the festive season.
marketing in FIRDI’s Planning Office, goes on to tell us that Taiwan’s state-owned Tobacco and Liquor Corpora-
“20%” refers to innovative new products. If these should tion (TTL) draws on its rich experience of manufacturing
survive initial market competition, they stand a chance of alcohols to produce its own instant noodles. Aside from
becoming one of the “evergreen” classics of the 80% group. its three most popular products—Huadiao Chicken Noo-
Chen explains that there are several ways to achieve dles, Huadiao Beef Noodles with Pickles, and Sesame Oil
innovation, including mashups, co-branding, and even Chicken Noodles—TTL’s Minced Pork Ramen and Sakura
bringing together seemingly conflicting elements. For ex- Shrimp Dry Noodles are flavored with mature Shaoxing
ample, Wu-Mu Ramen and Lian Hwa Foods’ Koloko Pea rice wine; the company also combines its Yushan Mau Tai
Crackers have joined forces, combining crushed crackers liquor with spicy, garlicky noodles; and its Mongolian Hot
with Hong Kong fried crabs and Sichuan chicken fried Pot Ramen, known for the exquisitely flavorful broth, con-
noodles. Their co-branding strategy aims to arouse curios- tains wujiapi liquor and rice-wine lees, using more than
ity as well as whetting appetites. ten medicinal ingredients. These intoxicating noodles are
Innovations available only in Taiwan. Another company, Ve Wong, has
Fierce competition, Chen tells us, compels manufactur- launched its own whisky-flavored instant noodles, vying
ers of instant noodles to resort to creative strategies such as for space on the shelves of local convenience stores.
統一企業率先推出沖泡式非油
炸麵，口味也有創新風味。
Uni-President is one of the first
companies to develop non-fried
instant noodles, combining them
with innovative flavors.
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海外市場吸力，飲食文化的延伸一大特色。陳麗婷指出，台灣具有「罐頭王國」
的基底，再做技術的延伸，例如從粉包加入原名
陳麗婷認為，能夠吸引海外人士購買，主要
為「殺菌軟袋」的調理包，推出40年以上、全台
來自飲食文化的吸引力與延伸，例如對韓風的喜
第一碗擁有肉塊料理包的滿漢大餐，創出年銷
愛，轉而到韓國泡麵；欣賞日本職人對拉麵的細
3,000萬碗的好成績，成為經典的案例。
緻與龜毛，移情到日本泡麵；而台灣呢？
滿漢大餐是許多韓國人來台灣的指定伴手禮，
如果說泡麵是飲食文化的延伸，陳麗婷認為，
現在連韓國便利商店也能買到，堪稱是另類「台
第一非牛肉麵莫屬，國外的遊客來台灣必吃牛肉
灣之光」。
麵，速食麵復刻這樣的飲式風味，加上方便攜
第二是國外做不來的台酒系列的泡麵。據傳台
帶，保存期限長，成為首選。
灣菸酒公司十年前，將窖藏15年的花雕酒，作成
特別是透過料理包的豐富度，成為台灣泡麵的
料理酒佐料包，推出兩年後，拜社群口碑的推波
助瀾爆紅，甚至一度缺貨，目前仍是位居台灣民
眾最喜愛十大泡麵排行榜上。
第三則是帶有傳統飲食文化記憶的泡麵，除了
肉燥麵，還有「神還原」夜市小吃的蚵仔麵線、
肉焿麵，以及當歸鴨、麻油雞、藥燉排骨等食補
風味的泡麵，特別吸引香港、馬來西亞華人市
場。王子麵、科學麵、張君雅等系列，「乾吃」
的零嘴泡麵，也是台灣的特色。
不論是加班、熬夜的宵夜，或是月底沒有錢的
正餐；用來追劇的小點或是颱風天的存糧；抑或
是出國旅遊的良伴、送外國友人的伴手禮，逛夜
市的炒泡麵、吸湯汁的火鍋滷味麵，台灣百百款
的泡麵，不只有著眾多口味的熱鬧，更是代表島
嶼的經典滋味。 l
藥膳排骨泡麵，吃得到排骨，藥膳風味清香迷人。
A bowl of instant noodles with pork ribs stewed with medicinal
herbs promises both the texture of real meat and the attractive
fragrance of traditional herbs.
110
Future trends Many Korean tourists in Taiwan buy Imperial Big Meal
Chen Li-ting observes that the Fun Food Taiwan instant noodles as presents for their friends and families
Awards—organized by FIRDI and sponsored by the Indus- back home. So popular are these noodles that they can
trial Development Administration of the Ministry of Eco- now be found in convenience stores in South Korea. It’s
nomic Affairs—place a high premium on purity, design, not far-fetched to call them Taiwan’s pride and joy.
convenience and sustainability. These criteria can help us The second authentically Taiwanese attraction is TTL’s
identify future trends for instant noodles. range of instant noodles, enlivened by special alcohols
Referring to the noodles themselves, Chen says that that cannot be found elsewhere in the world.
there’s a tendency to move away from oil frying in order to The third is that group of instant noodles which carry
meet the growing demand for healthy food. For example, memories of traditional food culture. Apart from minced
Uni-President’s non-fried broad noodles, which won silver pork noodles, there are instant noodles that reincarnate
at the 2023 Fun Food Taiwan Awards, are an innovation the flavors of familiar night-market snacks, such as oys-
made possible by new technology. ter vermicelli, battered pork and noodles in thick soup,
Tu Chung-cheng reveals that Uni-President spent 15 and “tonic” dishes such as dong quai duck, sesame-oil
years developing its non-fried instant noodles. For the dehy- chicken, and pork ribs stewed with herbs. These are par-
drating process, the company uses heat rather than oil fry- ticularly popular among Hongkongers and Malaysians
ing. Non-fried noodles thus take twice as long to produce. of Chinese heritage. Other characteristically Taiwanese
Global appeal products include crispy, cracker-like noodles that do not
If instant noodles may be regarded as an extension of need to be cooked: Prince Noodles, Science Noodles, and
local food culture, what is it about Taiwanese instant noo- GGE (Little Girl Zhang Junya).
dles that can lure international taste buds? For Chen, beef Some have instant noodles as late-night meals while
noodles are unquestionably the most saliently Taiwanese they’re working overtime, doing homework or preparing
invention. Most foreign tourists have Taiwanese beef noo- for exams. Others turn to instant noodles for their main
dles on their must-eat lists. Beef-flavored instant noodles meals when they run out of money before payday. Still
win out because they not only capture the island’s culinary others have them for snacks while watching live broad-
soul but have the added strengths of being convenient and casts, or store them up for typhoons. Instant noodles
long-lasting. come in handy when we’re traveling abroad, and they
One prominent feature of Taiwanese instant noodles is may be presented as gifts to our overseas friends. Tai-
the richness of the sachets of flavorings and other ingredi- wan’s instant noodles not only pamper our palates with
ents that accompany the noodles. Uni-President’s Imperial myriad flavors but also perfectly capture our island’s
Big Meal series first introduced sealed bags with chunks of unique tastescapes. l
cooked beef more than 40 years ago. Now selling some 30 (Esther Tseng/photos by Jimmy Lin/
million packets per year, the series is a classic success story. tr. by Brandon Yen)
統一企業經過8.5小時烘乾的麵條完全沒有任何添加物，象徵潔淨高值的飲食趨勢。
Uni-President’s non-fried noodles take 8.5 hours to dry. Additive-free, they cater to the
increasing demand for clean and healthy food.
111
產業新創 ENTREPRENEURSHIP
廢漁網回收，難在需要投入大量的
人力，拆解、分類、回收網上不同
功能的物品。
The hard part about recycling
fishing nets is that it takes a
great deal of human labor to
disassemble, sort, and recycle
the various materials used in
them.
海廢新演繹
蚵繩與漁網的循環經濟
Marine Waste and the Circular Economy:
New Life for Shellstring Cords and Fishing Nets
文•郭美瑜圖•林格立版面設計•馬英凱
台灣的養殖技術與漁業發達，餐桌上總不缺鮮美的魚蝦貝類。早年，海域四
周的海洋廢棄物可見廢漁網、廢蚵繩，是海洋生物的幽靈殺手。如今，漁民、
公民、企業與政府聯手，主動回收這些廢漁具，使之進入循環經濟體系，製成
高質化的服飾與生活用品，成了「鍍金」商品。
G iven the technological level of Taiwan’s aquaculture industry and the scale
of its fisheries sector, there is never a lack of fresh seafood available for din-
ing tables. In the past, the oceans around Taiwan were polluted by marine waste
such as abandoned fishing nets and discarded oyster shellstring cords. Today,
with fishermen, aquaculturists, citizens, enterprises, and government all working
together, such waste fishing gear is being proactively recycled. It has become part
of the circular economy, and is being made into high-value-added clothing and
goods for everyday life, becoming a truly “gilded” product.
112
廢棄的蚵繩與漁網，透過台化的領先技術，還原並再製成環保絲。
Using cutting edge technology. Formosa Chemicals and Fibre Corporation recycles waste
oyster shellstring cords and fishing nets and makes them into environmentally friendly yarn.
113
嘉義縣環保局長張輝川說，海洋廢
棄物回收的最大難題在於去化。
Zhang Huichuan, director of the
Chiayi County Environmental
Protection Bureau, says that the
most difficult step in recycling
marine debris is finding uses for
the recovered materials.
冬陽暖照，嘉義東石鄉的季津合作社洗蚵台灣的牡蠣養殖主要分布在西南沿
場，許多外縣市的蚵農將採收的牡蠣（台灣稱海，從彰化、雲林、嘉義、台南及澎湖、
蚵仔）運到這裡淘洗，在地剖蚵，處理廢蚵殼連江縣等地都有。嘉義有外傘頂洲做為天然
及廢蚵繩。屏障，水中營養源豐富，成為全台最大的牡蠣
採訪之日，大貨車載進場的牡蠣來自台南，產地，縣內東石鄉及布袋鎮的養殖海域面積廣
塑膠簍裡一串串牡蠣被倒進分離槽，牡蠣與蚵達一萬公頃，年產牡蠣9,181公噸，佔全國產量
繩瞬間分離：滾筒卡住蚵繩，牡蠣從輸送帶滑 47.15%。縣府以境內的牡蠣養殖面積估算，一
進塑膠簍裡。年會產出1,300公噸廢蚵繩。若以台灣海岸線一
接連兩、三簍之後暫停，作業平台的工作人圈1,200公里計算，廢蚵繩足足可以繞台灣十
員拿起剪刀，剪斷卡在捲軸的蚵繩，下方的工圈，這還不包括外縣市送到嘉義洗蚵的數量。
作人員收集後將之運送至暫置場曝曬，再駕著塑膠蚵繩泡在海水，久了變硬，只能使用一
小山貓碾壓繩子上殘留的牡蠣殼，接著將沒有次，以往僅少數廢蚵繩被回收，利用物理法直
殘留牡蠣殼的蚵繩洗淨後曝曬，最後打包送進接熔融再製成蚵繩，用途有限，其餘無處去
嘉義新港鄉的台灣化學纖維股份有限公司（以化，最後去了哪裡？棄置？焚化？掩埋？這始
下簡稱「台化」），繼續下一站循環再生。終是難解的城市治理事項。
「2019年時，同仁在八掌溪出海口調查海底
嘉義縣府為廢蚵繩找出路
垃圾時，發現海底怎麼都有一條一條硬硬的東
牡蠣濾食浮游生物，蚵農會先將牡蠣殼以塑西，像鋼絲一樣，帶回來研究之後發現，原來
膠材質的繩索綁成蚵串，再置於海水中，讓蚵是泡在海裡許久的蚵繩。」嘉義縣環保局長張
苗附著在殼上生長，少則半年採收，多則兩、輝川說。
三年養成老蚵才收成。四年前，嘉義縣前任環保局長張根穆曾親訪
114
塑膠製的蚵繩泡在海水中，久
了變硬，屬於一次性產品。
（郭美瑜攝）
The plastic cords used in
漁夫將採收的牡蠣送進洗蚵場再處理，現場就可回收蚵繩。
oyster shellstrings harden
（莊坤儒攝）
over time when immersed
When aquaculturists bring harvested oysters to a washing facility
in seawater, making them
for processing, it provides an opportunity to recover the shellstring
single-use products.
cords. (photo by Kent Chuang)
(photo by Mei Kuo)
Under the warm rays strings to grow into oysters that can be harvested in as
of a winter sun, we arrive little as six months or as long as two or three years.
at the Jijin Cooperative, Oyster aquaculture in Taiwan is mainly concentrated
the largest private-sector oys- along the southwest coast in Changhua, Yunlin, Chiayi,
ter washing operation in Chiayi and Tainan, as well as in Penghu and Matsu. Two town-
Cou nt y ’s Dongsh i Tow n sh ip, ships in Chiayi County—Dongshi and Budai—produce
where many oyster farmers from 9,181 metric tons of oysters annually, accounting for
the surrounding region bring their 47.15% of the national total. Based on the area occupied
harvested oysters to be washed and by oyster farms in Chiayi, the county government calcu-
shucked. The cooperative also handles lates that within its jurisdiction some 1,300 metric tons
waste oyster shells and shellstring cords. of waste oyster shellstring cords are generated each year.
On the day of our visit, a large truck has brought This is enough cord to circle Taiwan’s coastline
oysters from Tainan. Oyster shellstrings loaded in large ten times over, and that doesn’t include the quantity
plastic baskets are tipped into separation machines,
and in an instant the oysters are stripped from the
cords that hold the shellstrings together. 廢蚵殼也可進入循環經濟體系，可再生製成建材、拖鞋、織布等。
The shellstring cords are transported to a holding （莊坤儒攝）
Waste oyster shells that enter the circular economy can be used
area to be dried in the sun, after which workers drive to make building materials, footwear, fabrics, and more.
(photo by Kent Chuang)
a compact loader over them to crush any oyster shells
that remain attached to the cords. Then the shell-free
cords are washed and dried in the sun again. Finally,
they are baled and shipped to the Formosa Chemicals
and Fibre Corporation (FCFC) in Chiayi’s Xingang
Township, where they enter the next stage of the recy-
cling process.
Finding uses for waste shellstring cords
Oysters feed on plankton, and farmers thread syn-
thetic cords through oyster shells to create shellstrings
(a.k.a. clutch strings), which they suspend in seawater.
Oyster spat (larvae) attach themselves to the shell-
115
剛採收的牡蠣經過滾筒擾動，殼、繩分離，
蚵繩可全回收。
Freshly harvested oysters are tipped into a
roller machine that separates the cords from
the shellstrings, enabling the cord material to be
recycled.
台化，探詢有沒有辦法再利用廢蚵繩。張輝川 2022年台化與金洲簽署廢漁網回收合作意向
說，台化事先不知蚵繩屬於哪一種塑料，經過書，當時台化董事長洪福源說，目標是要達到
分析，才發現是尼龍6（又稱耐隆6，以下簡稱「We produce. We recycle.」的企業社會責任。
N6），而且成分很單純，因此促成回收案。來到台化新港廠聚合廠區，廠方引領我們循
著生產線，了解廢蚵繩及廢漁網的回收再製流
台化「自己生產、自己回收」
程。一綑一綑回收的漁網整齊地排列，另一端
「我們原本就有回收N6，並還原成己內醯胺
（Caprolactam, CPL），但都是下腳料。」台化
生產含N6製成的纖維絲線，並以化學法散聚回
收（解聚、分解）下腳料，若要回收再利用N6
的廢蚵繩並非難事，而這項技術，全球僅台灣
台化、韓國曉星及義大利Aquafil擁有。
台化加入N6製品回收，要從2018年與國際服
飾品牌P a t a g o n i a合作說起，當時台化越南廠將
廢尼龍漁網還原成C P L，再製成環保絲，提供
Patagonia生產機能戶外運動服飾。
以往，台化製造的N6也提供全球第二大的
漁網製造商、金洲海洋國際股份有限公司
製作漁網。有了與Patagonia合作的經驗，
蚵繩泡在海水中，久了變硬，僅能使用一次。
The cords used in oyster shellstrings harden
after being immersed in seawater for a long time,
so they can only be used once.
116
工作人員駕著小山貓，翻動曝曬中的廢蚵繩及廢漁網。（莊坤儒攝）
Workers drive a compact loader over piles of waste shellstring cords
and fishing nets drying in the sun. (photo by Kent Chuang)
attached to oysters sent to Chiayi from other areas to

be washed.
When synthetic shellstring cords are immersed in 廢蚵繩去除雜質後曬乾，送到台化，就可以進行循環經
seawater, they harden over time, so they can only be 濟的製程。
After shell debris is removed from waste shellstring
used once. Formerly there was no place to dispose of cords and they are dried in the sun, they can be sent to
the discarded cords, creating a major problem for the Formosa Chemicals and Fibre Corporation (FCFC) for
recycling as part of the circular economy.
local government.
“When colleagues went to the mouth of the Bazhang
River in 2019 to do a survey of undersea debris, they
discovered that there were many lengths of hard ma- recycles N6 production waste using depolymerization
terial like steel wiring. After bringing some back for technology. Recycling N6 shellstring cord would not be
analysis, it turned out that these were oyster shellstring difficult, but only three companies in the world have the
cords that had been immersed in the sea for a long technology to do it: FCFC, Korea’s Hyosung Corporation,
time,” says Zhang Huichuan, director of the Chiayi and Italy’s Aquafil.
County Environmental Protection Bureau (CCEPB). FCFC’s involvement in N6 recycling goes back 2018,
Four years ago, former CCEPB director Chang when it began working with the international clothing
Ken-mu visited FCFC to explore whether there was any brand Patagonia. At that time FCFC’s Vietnam plant
way to reuse shellstring cords. At that time, no one at started converting waste nylon fishing nets back into
FCFC knew what kind of plastic is used to make these caprolactam (CPL) and using this to make environmen-
cords. Analysis showed that they are composed of Ny- tally friendly yarn, which was supplied to Patagonia to
lon 6 (N6), so a recycling plan was proposed. produce functional outdoor and sporting attire. CPL also
“We produce, we recycle.” has industrial uses and can be used in knitted fabrics.
“We were already recycling N6 and turning it back In 2022 FCFC signed a letter of intent to work with
into caprolactam, its main ingredient, but the material the world’s second-largest manufacturer of fishing nets,
we were recycling was production waste.” FCFC’s fi- Kaohsiung-based King Chou Marine Technology, to re-
ber and yarn production includes N6 products, and it cycle fishing nets. At that time FCFC chairman Hong Fu
117
台化人員檢測廢漁網，確認材質單純，是尼龍6。
FCFC personnel use test instruments to check that waste fishing
nets are made of Nylon 6.
台化人員解說廢漁網及廢蚵繩還原成己內醯胺的流程。
An employee at FCFC explains the process of turning discarded 蚵繩再製成環保絲，提供品牌大廠例如N i k e、
fishing nets and shellstring cords back into caprolactam.
Adidas、Patagonia、福懋等製成機能衣。
政府媒合，建立回收產業價值鏈
是切成段、等待進熔融爐的廢蚵繩，工作人員「海廢回收有三大難題。」張輝川以廢蚵
手持檢測儀器，確認皆為N6材質。繩、廢漁網回收為例指出，如何讓漁民有回收
切段成堆的廢蚵繩，被倒入GRS（Global Re- 意願、回收物要暫置何處、最後也是最重要
cycled Standard）認證的熔融槽熔融，再透過散的，是如何去化，這些是推動海廢回收的最大
聚（解聚、分解）及過濾三道純化工序，將之挑戰。
還原成N6纖維己內醯胺（CPL）。 2020年海洋委員會海保署執行「向海致敬──
C P L送進原絲廠再製：添加催化劑，在儲槽海岸清潔維護計畫」，整合海廢回收產業鏈，
加熱、聚合，製成N6料粒，經過押出機製成環包括補助地方臨海19個地方政府清除海廢；委
保絲。成捲的絲餅經過套袋、包裝就可出貨，外執行台灣海域清除、回收海廢作業；成立淨
供下游廠商加工。海大聯盟，號召公民參與淨灘；招募漁民擔任
「再製的CPL與石化提煉的新鮮CPL並無明顯環保艦隊、招募公民擔任潛海戰將，協助清除
差異。」台化說，再製的C P L是經由輕油裂解海廢及海漂。
而來，較石化提煉的新鮮C P L節電15%、減碳以嘉義縣政府為例，縣府在東石及布袋漁港
49%，並可減少耗用石油，降低浪費地球資源。設置處理廢漁網、廢蚵繩回收區，以每公斤15
2021年，金門縣政府也因台化的化學法散聚元高價收購、提供漁民回收獎勵，讓漁民有意
回收廢漁網技術，解決了數十年來堆置在金湖願回收，並委外回收業者分類、去除雜質，最
鎮新塘掩埋場、累積逾70公噸的廢棄漁網，並後提供給台化。
建置回收鏈，讓未來的廢漁具也得以再生。張輝川說，海廢回收後，最終要有去化的管
今（2024）年台化新港廠開闢第二條N6回收道，若能創造高質化的產品，更有回收誘因。
還原產線，未來台、越兩廠每月的廢漁網、廢例如瑞典品牌北極狐（Fjällräven）的背包，原
蚵繩回收產能上看1,250公噸。近年，台化加料之一就是使用台灣廢蚵繩還原的塑料，這種
入海保署推動的海廢再生聯盟，將廢漁網與廢高質化再利用，較原本回收再製成蚵繩的價值
118
Yuan said that the company’s goal was to put into prac- Vietnam are expected to have a combined capacity to
tice the corporate social responsibility principle of “We recycle 1,250 metric tons of nylon fishing nets and oys-
produce, we recycle.” ter shellstring cords. In recent years, FCFC has been
At the FCFC factory in Xingang, staff take us on a tour turning waste nets and shellstring cords into environ-
of the production line to learn about the recycling pro- mentally friendly yarn that it supplies to major brands
cess for oyster shellstring cords and fishing nets. Workers including Nike, Adidas, Patagonia, and Formosa Taf-
use test instruments to verify that all the material is N6. feta Company, who use it to make technical apparel.
Shellstring cords that have been cut into short lengths Building a recycling value chain
are put into melting tanks are certified as meeting the “There are three main problems with recycling ma-
Global Recycled Standard requirements. After melting, rine waste,” says Zhang Huichuan. For example, he
the material is depolymerized, refined and filtered, turn- notes, the biggest challenges to promoting the recycling
ing it back into the main ingredient of N6 fiber, CPL. of waste fishing nets and oyster shellstring cords are
This material is then taken to the filament plant to how to get fishermen to participate, where to tempo-
be remanufactured. The CPL is heated in tanks with rarily store recyclable material, and finally, and most
an added catalyst, resulting in polymerization into N6, importantly, what it can be used for.
which is formed into pellets. These are extruded into N6 Zhang says that after marine waste is recovered,
filament, which is spooled, packaged, and shipped to ultimately there must be channels to dispose of it. If
downstream plants for processing. high-value-added products can be made from it, this
“There is no significant difference between remanufac- will increase the incentives to recover the material. For
tured CPL and virgin CPL refined from petrochemicals.” example, the Swedish brand Fjällräven uses plastic made
Remanufactured CPL is produced by a steam cracking
process, and it requires 15% less electricity than virgin
CPL, reduces carbon emissions by 49%, and decreases the
use of petroleum, thereby saving global resources.
In the future, the FCFC factories in Taiwan and
廢漁網及廢蚵繩，經過化學法散聚回收，可還原成己內醯胺。
FCFC uses chemical depolymerization technology to turn waste
fishing nets and shellstring cords back into caprolactam.
還原的己內醯胺，透過製程，製成環保絲。
Reclaimed caprolactam can be manufactured into environmentally
friendly yarn.
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台化人員再多一道工序，以目測把關環保絲的品質。
FCFC personnel use an added visual inspection to ensure the quality of the yarn.
高了一兩百倍，他出訪瑞典時以此背包為伴手櫃、涼亭、小木屋、置物籃、小椅凳、手機架
禮，當告知受訪者「這是用廢蚵繩製成的」，等。
對方都覺得不可思議。台捷董事長劉興朋說：「回收熱塑性塑料資
2021年，海保署串聯回收再利用業者、品牌源能做出木頭、板建材質感，許多國外訪團成
商、設計商、金融及研究機構，成立海廢再生員都覺得不可思議。」台捷也獲邀參與印尼政
聯盟，透過公私協力，研發海廢再利用商品，府主要城市打造東南亞第一座淨零綠色城市示
至今已有49家企業加入。範計畫，主導城市熱塑性塑料去化、生產基地
去年海保署召開海廢再生聯盟年會，展示海設備規劃、技術人員培訓等。
廢商品化的成果，業者採用廢漁網回收料的製海保署署長黃向文說，廢漁網具有經濟價值
品，包括鏡架、觸感柔軟且通過C N S 15290規之後，漁民及企業更願意主動回收，目前許多
範的嬰兒友善毛巾、洗髮精押瓶、辦公椅滑輪東南亞國家面臨廢棄漁網無處去化的難題，台
等。灣企業有這項技術，未來可望跨國合作，為永
另外，處理熱塑性塑料（具加熱軟化、冷卻續與環保提供解方。
定型特性）再利用的台捷精密股份有限公司，
循環經濟崛起，海洋永續現曙光
主要回收廢漁具上的浮球、浮標、保麗龍P S、
H I P S等，在透過自行研發的原料配比與生產家住東石掌潭村白水湖的嘉義縣牡蠣養殖產
技術，將回收料與其它材質共同改質組成複合銷協會理事蕭明富，養蚵也捕魚，家門口像是
式材料，產出工業棧板、展示架、課桌椅、櫉小型的漁具工廠，自己串蚵殼、織漁網，也自
120
from recycled shellstring cord from Taiwan as one of the desks and chairs, cabinets, gazebos, small cabins, stor-
materials for its backpacks. This kind of high-quality age baskets, stools, cell phone cases, and more.
reuse increases the value of recycled shellstring cords by Taijei chairman Luka Liou says: “By recycling ther-
100–200 times. When Chang went to Sweden, he brought moplastics we can make materials that have the texture
back some of these backpacks as gifts, and when he told of wood or lumber building materials, which many
people to whom he gave one, “This is made using waste visitors to our company find amazing.” Taijei has also
oyster shellstring cords,” they were astonished. been invited by the Indonesian government to join in
In 2020 the Ocean Conservation Administration a project to transform one of the country’s major cities
(OCA) instituted a program of coastal cleanups under into Southeast Asia’s first net-zero green demonstration
a policy called “Salute to the Sea: Coastal Cleaning and city. Taijei will guide the city in handling the disposal
Maintenance Program.” Under the program the OCA of thermoplastics, planning the equipment for a pro-
aims to integrate the industrial chain for marine waste duction site, and training technical personnel.
recycling, including subsidizing 19 coastal cities and OCA director-general Julia Hsiang-wen Huang says
counties to clean up marine debris; outsourcing tasks that now that waste fishing nets have economic value,
related to cleaning up Taiwan’s seas and recycling ma-
rine waste; establishing the Ocean Cleanup Alliance and
calling on citizens to take part in beach cleanups; and re-
cruiting fishermen to join the Environmental Protection
Fleet and citizens to monitor inshore waters, to assist in
cleaning up both sunken and floating marine debris.
For example, the Chiayi County Government has set
up special areas for recycling fishing nets and oyster
shellstring cords in the fishing ports at Dongshi and
Budai. It pays a high price of NT$15 per kilo for these
materials and provides fishermen with other incentives
to recycle, thereby increasing their willingness to partic-
ipate. The county also contracts specialized businesses
廢漁網、廢蚵繩回收還原成己內醯胺，較石化提煉的新鮮己內
to separate out recyclable materials and clean off impu- 醯胺更節電、減碳。
rities, after which they are supplied to FCFC. Recovering caprolactam from waste fishing nets and oyster
shellstring cords saves electricity and reduces carbon emissions
In 2021 the OCA brought together recycling busi- as compared to refining virgin caprolactam from petrochemicals.
nesses, brand owners, design firms, and financial and re-
search institutions to form the Marine Debris Recycling
Coalition. The coalition develops products that reuse ma- fishermen and enterprises are more willing to take the
rine waste and already has 49 participating enterprises. initiative to recycle them. Taiwanese businesses have
Companies are using recycled material from dis- the technology to handle this material, and there are
carded fishing nets to make many products, including prospects for future transnational cooperation, provid-
eyeglass frames, infant-friendly towels that are soft to ing solutions to issues of sustainability and environ-
the touch and meet CNS 15290 safety standards for tex- mental protection.
tiles, shampoo bottles, and office chair casters. The rise of the circular economy
In addition, Taijei Precision Company is recycling Xiao Mingfu, chairman of the Chiayi County Oys-
thermo plastics (polymer materials that soften when ter Aquaculture Association, not only farms oysters
heated and solidify when cooled), mainly recycling fish- but also fishes, and his front yard is like a miniature
ing gear floats, buoys, expanded polystyrene, and high fishing gear factory. He makes oyster shellstrings and
impact polystyrene. They combine recycled material with fishing nets himself, and also takes apart waste fishing
other inputs to make composite materials which they use nets. The floats and weights that he uses for new nets
to produce industrial pallets, display racks, classroom are made from recycled materials.
121
己拆解漁網，新漁網的浮子、鉛子用的皆是回 “In the old days discarded fishing nets weren’t
收料。 worth anything, but now that there are subsidies for
recycling fishing gear, people will even pick up any
「古早時廢漁網不值錢，現在廢漁具回收有
fishing nets tossed away by the roadside.”
補助，且可循環利用，路上棄置的漁網都有人
The island of Xiaoliuqiu off the coast of Pingtung
撿！」蕭明富持梭子來回織著漁網，他意味深
County is Taiwan’s one and only coral reef island, and
長地說：「存（省）一點，要用就有。海洋愈 is a popular tourist destination.
乾淨，愈有東西（海洋生物）。」 Over the past 14 years, Xiaoliuqiu’s Ocean Volun-
南台灣的小琉球，是台灣離島中唯一的珊瑚 teers have made 430 dives and cleaned up a lot of ma-
礁島，也是觀光勝地。2009年屏東縣琉球鄉觀 rine debris including many discarded fishing nets. In
光發展協會與熱心人士成立「小琉球海洋志工 addition, the government has banned gillnet fishing in
these waters. The coral reefs now have a chance to sur-
隊」，在當地旅遊淡季的每周三，自掏腰包背
vive, providing a habitat for undersea life, says Hsu Po-
著氧氣瓶下水淨海，14年來已下水逾400次，清
han, head of the volunteers.
除許多廢漁網等海廢，加上政府禁此海域使用 “Discarded fishing nets are very damaging to the
刺網作業，珊瑚獲得生存空間，海底生物也有 ecological chain of life. It may seem hard to imagine,
棲息之地，志工隊長許博翰說：「許久不見的 but many of our volunteers used to arm themselves
生物，例如鯊魚，也回來小琉球了。」 with spear guns and set up undersea fishing nets, but
許博翰並說：「廢漁網對生態鏈的殺傷力很 now they see things differently,” says Hsu.
Waste oyster shellstring cords, discarded fishing
大，很難想像，小琉球志工隊的成員，有很多
nets…. Let’s take a moment to reflect on the fact that
人曾經拿過漁槍、在水下圍過網，但他們現在
the ocean is not merely the basis for seafood culture
的心情不一樣了。」
or the source of materials for the circular economy. We
廢蚵繩、廢漁網……讓我們省思，海洋不僅有 should also consider how to prevent further degrada-
海鮮文化或回收經濟，避免海洋環境再劣化， tion of the marine environment. l
更是刻不容緩。 l (Mei Kuo/photos by Jimmy Lin/tr. by Phil Newell)
海洋不僅有海鮮文化，人們更應省思何謂海洋文化。（莊坤儒攝）
The ocean is not just the source of seafood culture. We should also think
about the meaning of marine culture. (photo by Kent Chuang)
122
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FEB.

A Glass of Good Cheer

Vol. 49 No. 2 February 2024

whisky producers. and Taiwan’s instant noodle culture.

We also visit Yangmingshan’s Zhuzihu “When I was asked to state my prefer­

20 封面故事 Cover Story

2 多元創新的在地產業 1 記憶深澳岬角 56 月月好讀

全球視野 Global Outlook

島嶼行旅 Around Taiwan

風格如同它手繪笑臉l o g o一樣搞怪的酉鬼啤 When it comes to local Taiwanese ingredients, the

ordinary people to use to produce alcoholic beverages,

When Tea Meets Alcohol:

究茶包裝的年代，綠茗堂的亮眼形象，快速地在 Japanese emperor for his personal consumption. Lu,

爵茶）的習慣大相逕庭，如何讓外國人認識台灣 thé quickly became well­known in local markets for

文•曾蘭淑 圖•莊坤儒、林格立 版面設計•劉俊良

The Angel’s Share

一切日常的韻律都始於呼吸，我 風 輕晃。植物溫 柔的芳香 繚 繞，我

們六位芳療師們進入部落，站在病 感受到身 體 所觸及的另一 個身 體

人與老人家的身後，雙手穩穩搭著 正 緩 緩 起伏，呼吸 加深了，如 縱谷

他們的肩，無聲地 以 觸覺告知：我 的風般綿延悠長，漸漸成為一顆深

圍 繞 著 我 們，我 輕 聲 叮 嚀：「三個 大武，於 是時常開著 公 務車，在依

這種 結合居家醫 療與偏鄉長照 就在溫柔的撫觸中，輕靠在修女身

的「行 動芳 療」模 式，最早或 許 是 上，安心 熟 睡了。同 時 現 場 瀰 漫著

一間國小化作災民緊急避難中心， 十三年後，她依 然 待 在臺東，香 氣

淹 蓋 的人 們，驚 嚇、恐 慌、哀傷 的

山路。那是當時通往災區僅存的道 團聚、準備過年，忽然一陣天搖地 出版： 寶瓶文化

路，據說從山路上俯看整條太麻里 動，震 動的玻 璃窗像要碎裂，我的

溪，會發現曾經費心建築的房舍、 第一 個 念 頭 是：「震 央 在哪？該 不

橋梁、道路都變成了巨大的沙粒， 會出事了吧？」果然 看見 新聞播 報

成為只供回憶的殘骸，被棄置在更 震央 位 於花 蓮，幾棟 大樓崩塌、公

加巨大的洪流裡。 寓 在 河堤 旁傾斜，另外，有朋友正 精油，低調穿行在臨時避難收容中

第一位接受芳療服務的對象，是 在招募芳療志工團隊，進入臨時避 心，靜靜走在紛雜的人群和組合床

位負責煮飯的大姐。她也是受災戶 難收容中心替受災戶做按摩，以香 板中，這裡 燈光 總 是明亮，所有擔

之一，災後時常胸悶頭 痛、喘 不過 氣陪伴現場的人們。我立刻訂了回 心 餘 震 的人 們 都 共 同 睡 在 沒 有 隔

氣，但仍然 撐 著身 體，長期站立煮 花 蓮的火車票，儘 管當時，我 其實 間的運動廣場。

大鍋飯菜餵飽所有災民，這讓她的 任何按摩手法都不會。 一位阿嬤床邊放著兩支柺杖，當

雙腿更加水腫了起來，腰和手臂痠 從 八 八 風 災 到 花 蓮 震 災，將 近 我蹲到她身邊，她說 腰 好痛啊，動

得發疼。 十年，資深芳療師Nic ole已累積不 了三十二次刀。我納悶著怎麼會動

醫 療 團 隊 趁 空 閒 時 請 她 稍 坐下 少救 災、偏鄉照護的經 驗，也成 為 這麼多次刀呢？一邊給她聞了香香

來，芳療師為她做了簡單的腿部按 臺東聖母醫院 芳香照護 推 廣中心 的按摩滾珠瓶，裡頭有玫瑰、佛手

摩，就在這時 刻，眾人 詫 異地發現 的主任。我拿著他們從臺東帶來的 柑、羅 馬洋甘菊和真正薰 衣草，散

她自動解開束腰、掀 起衣服，讓 種 香 氣 不 僅 僅 是 精 油 的 氣 味，絕 位阿嬤將阿公推到我的面前，說阿

我 將 精 油 塗 在 她 的 腰 上，我 輕 輕 對不只是檸檬香茅加絲柏、大西洋 公的手很僵硬，沒辦法自己拿湯匙

撫觸她布滿多道傷疤的腰背，首次 雪松和永久花，還包含了一種 無論 吃飯，總 是灑得到處都是，希望 讓

明 瞭 到 原 來 人 的 身 體 可 以像 是 被 走到哪 裡，都能使 人安全、感覺被 我按摩後他的手可以靈活一點。

貼了好多塊補丁，活似有靈魂的拼 溫暖包覆的氛圍。 阿 公 的 手 托 在 輪 椅 上，手 指 變

布娃娃。 於 是我開始每 個月都到臺東當 形、關節腫 脹，很明顯的退化性關

的 身 軀，觸 覺 讓 破 碎 的 肌 膚 有 了 車，一起往 返部落，為老人家與照 適的精油，為每個指節仔細按摩，

延 續，她側身瞇眼，天 真得 像隻 撒 顧 者 們 做 芳 療 按 摩。我 們 走 進 依 直 到 手 掌 漸 漸 有 了 溫 度。我 叮 嚀

嬌 的 小 貓，嚷 著：「好 舒 服 啊，好 山傍海的小馬、有林鵰巡弋的泰源 回去後要多注意手部保暖，尤其早

久沒有這麼舒服啊……」離開前， 幽谷、海面廣闊閃亮的東 河，她們 上可 以 多 熱 敷，然 而 同 時 我 也 知

阿嬤 害羞地問我：「你明天 還會來 說 在 臺 東 生 活，任 何 事 情 都 可 以 道，經 歷了這次按 摩，儘 管回去有

嗎？再 幫 我用這罐 按 摩 好不好？」 轉 化 得 很 快，累 的 時 候 開 車 在 路 熱敷，阿公其實還是不太可能靠自

然 而 老 人 家 的 記 憶 似乎 不怎 麼 可 上，看 看 海，看 看 天 空，疲 憊 就 轉 己 的 力 量 好 好 吃 飯，也 難 免 讓 照

靠，隔天她就完全認不得我了呢。 化掉了，這是生活在臺東的幸福。 顧他的阿嬤不耐煩。

另外一張椅子上，一位奶奶身旁 我向肯園的S u n n y 老師談 起我

下來了，所 有 東 西 掉得滿 地，連 助 然而景色再美、天 空再廣闊，真 落 按摩，但 人 那麼多，一 位老人最

行器也被震走，她從十二樓的房間 正加入這團隊工作後，我卻時常感 多只分配得到十五分鐘，到底是在

爬出來，還好撿回一條命。 到 像 在 泥 濘 中 爬 行，漸 漸 發 覺 必 做什 麼？「尤 其 按 摩 過 後，他 們 的

是兩位我現在的資深同事，她們分 例 如 一 位 年 滿 七 十、膝 關 節 退 老師回答：「你不 要小看你們在

別 蹲 在 阿 嬤 的 左 腳 和 右 腳 前，替 化 又 末 梢 水 腫 的 阿 嬤，疲 乏 感 覆 做的事情，你們在做的，其實是一

她脫下鞋襪，塗上精油細心按摩， 蓋了眼神裡可能存在的光芒，她卻 種『膚慰』。在他們的生活裡，很少

手法和動作，也記得了有一股香氣 的阿公。那是她 年邁中風、連話 都 我 靜 靜 聽 著 這 個 回 答，臉 上 刻

有 次 活 動 現 場，一 位 老 榮 民 沉 默 在屬於靈魂的空間。 太陽，在地上永恆發光。

We also visit Yangmingshan’s Zhuzihu “When I was asked to state my prefer

爵茶）的習慣大相逕庭，如何讓外國人認識台灣 thé quickly became wellknown in local markets for

文•曾蘭淑圖•莊坤儒、林格立版面設計•劉俊良

一切日常的韻律都始於呼吸，我風輕晃。植物溫柔的芳香繚繞，我

們六位芳療師們進入部落，站在病感受到身體所觸及的另一個身體

人與老人家的身後，雙手穩穩搭著正緩緩起伏，呼吸加深了，如縱谷

他們的肩，無聲地以觸覺告知：我的風般綿延悠長，漸漸成為一顆深

圍繞著我們，我輕聲叮嚀：「三個大武，於是時常開著公務車，在依

這種結合居家醫療與偏鄉長照就在溫柔的撫觸中，輕靠在修女身

的「行動芳療」模式，最早或許是上，安心熟睡了。同時現場瀰漫著

一間國小化作災民緊急避難中心，十三年後，她依然待在臺東，香氣

淹蓋的人們，驚嚇、恐慌、哀傷的

山路。那是當時通往災區僅存的道團聚、準備過年，忽然一陣天搖地出版：寶瓶文化

路，據說從山路上俯看整條太麻里動，震動的玻璃窗像要碎裂，我的

溪，會發現曾經費心建築的房舍、第一個念頭是：「震央在哪？該不

橋梁、道路都變成了巨大的沙粒，會出事了吧？」果然看見新聞播報

成為只供回憶的殘骸，被棄置在更震央位於花蓮，幾棟大樓崩塌、公

加巨大的洪流裡。寓在河堤旁傾斜，另外，有朋友正精油，低調穿行在臨時避難收容中

第一位接受芳療服務的對象，是在招募芳療志工團隊，進入臨時避心，靜靜走在紛雜的人群和組合床

位負責煮飯的大姐。她也是受災戶難收容中心替受災戶做按摩，以香板中，這裡燈光總是明亮，所有擔

之一，災後時常胸悶頭痛、喘不過氣陪伴現場的人們。我立刻訂了回心餘震的人們都共同睡在沒有隔

氣，但仍然撐著身體，長期站立煮花蓮的火車票，儘管當時，我其實間的運動廣場。

大鍋飯菜餵飽所有災民，這讓她的任何按摩手法都不會。一位阿嬤床邊放著兩支柺杖，當

雙腿更加水腫了起來，腰和手臂痠從八八風災到花蓮震災，將近我蹲到她身邊，她說腰好痛啊，動

得發疼。十年，資深芳療師Nic ole已累積不了三十二次刀。我納悶著怎麼會動

醫療團隊趁空閒時請她稍坐下少救災、偏鄉照護的經驗，也成為這麼多次刀呢？一邊給她聞了香香

來，芳療師為她做了簡單的腿部按臺東聖母醫院芳香照護推廣中心的按摩滾珠瓶，裡頭有玫瑰、佛手

摩，就在這時刻，眾人詫異地發現的主任。我拿著他們從臺東帶來的柑、羅馬洋甘菊和真正薰衣草，散

她自動解開束腰、掀起衣服，讓種香氣不僅僅是精油的氣味，絕位阿嬤將阿公推到我的面前，說阿

我將精油塗在她的腰上，我輕輕對不只是檸檬香茅加絲柏、大西洋公的手很僵硬，沒辦法自己拿湯匙

撫觸她布滿多道傷疤的腰背，首次雪松和永久花，還包含了一種無論吃飯，總是灑得到處都是，希望讓

明瞭到原來人的身體可以像是被走到哪裡，都能使人安全、感覺被我按摩後他的手可以靈活一點。

貼了好多塊補丁，活似有靈魂的拼溫暖包覆的氛圍。阿公的手托在輪椅上，手指變

布娃娃。於是我開始每個月都到臺東當形、關節腫脹，很明顯的退化性關

的身軀，觸覺讓破碎的肌膚有了車，一起往返部落，為老人家與照適的精油，為每個指節仔細按摩，

延續，她側身瞇眼，天真得像隻撒顧者們做芳療按摩。我們走進依直到手掌漸漸有了溫度。我叮嚀

嬌的小貓，嚷著：「好舒服啊，好山傍海的小馬、有林鵰巡弋的泰源回去後要多注意手部保暖，尤其早

久沒有這麼舒服啊……」離開前，幽谷、海面廣闊閃亮的東河，她們上可以多熱敷，然而同時我也知

阿嬤害羞地問我：「你明天還會來說在臺東生活，任何事情都可以道，經歷了這次按摩，儘管回去有

嗎？再幫我用這罐按摩好不好？」轉化得很快，累的時候開車在路熱敷，阿公其實還是不太可能靠自

然而老人家的記憶似乎不怎麼可上，看看海，看看天空，疲憊就轉己的力量好好吃飯，也難免讓照

靠，隔天她就完全認不得我了呢。化掉了，這是生活在臺東的幸福。顧他的阿嬤不耐煩。

另外一張椅子上，一位奶奶身旁我向肯園的S u n n y 老師談起我

下來了，所有東西掉得滿地，連助然而景色再美、天空再廣闊，真落按摩，但人那麼多，一位老人最

行器也被震走，她從十二樓的房間正加入這團隊工作後，我卻時常感多只分配得到十五分鐘，到底是在

爬出來，還好撿回一條命。到像在泥濘中爬行，漸漸發覺必做什麼？「尤其按摩過後，他們的

是兩位我現在的資深同事，她們分例如一位年滿七十、膝關節退老師回答：「你不要小看你們在

別蹲在阿嬤的左腳和右腳前，替化又末梢水腫的阿嬤，疲乏感覆做的事情，你們在做的，其實是一

她脫下鞋襪，塗上精油細心按摩，蓋了眼神裡可能存在的光芒，她卻種『膚慰』。在他們的生活裡，很少

手法和動作，也記得了有一股香氣的阿公。那是她年邁中風、連話都我靜靜聽著這個回答，臉上刻

有次活動現場，一位老榮民沉默在屬於靈魂的空間。太陽，在地上永恆發光。

肩膀，他的鼻子和眼眶就瞬間紅人類的這個身體，以及身體所承的甜美奔放，前調甚至有些苦澀，

了起來。後來我們才知道，這位老載的疾病、衰老與最終必然的消可能教人皺眉，但再聞久一些，

活了好多年，一個人慢慢變老，或不見的城市》結尾，有人詢問旅行香，伴著一股蜂蜜般的甜── 經過

許真的很少有機會能感受到被呵者：「如果最後所有的潮流都將通時間沉澱的苦澀，轉化為安撫人

護、被溫柔觸碰吧。往地獄，一切都徒勞無用，那該怎心的恬靜尾韻，其上又增添許多

在學習按摩手法的過程，最初麼辦？」閃爍跳躍的金黃色斑點。

我總是專注忙於把動作記熟，練旅行者回答：「如果真有一個地菊科的學名A s t e r a c e a e，來自

習抓準肌肉的位置，提醒自己注意獄，它已經在這存在了，那是我們古希臘文的星星（A s t e r），用來形

各種技巧：服貼、緩慢、大面積包每天生活其間的地獄，是我們聚在容星形的頭狀花序，每朵菊花都

圍。直到有次練習結束，療程床上一起而形成的地獄。有兩種方法是由許多微小的舌狀花與管狀花

的前輩回饋：「流程都很熟悉了，可以逃離，不再受苦痛折磨。對大共同組成，一朵花其實就是層層

但就是缺少一種感覺，一種想好多數人而言，第一種方法比較容疊疊的一束花，花朵雖然渺小，卻

好愛這個身體的感覺。」易：接受地獄，成為它的一部分，彷彿匯聚了黑暗中的無數星芒。

再下一次的練習，我才恍然發直到你再也看不到它。第二種方法當星星與太陽交替出現，樟樹

現，當我帶著敬愛去和對方的身比較危險，而且需要時時戒慎憂又從大地萌生鮮綠的嫩芽，曬曬

體對話，明白眼前是一個完整的慮：在地獄裡頭，尋找並學習辨認太陽行光合作用，產生的葡萄糖

人，而非一堆骨骼與肌肉的時候，什麼人，以及什麼東西不是地獄，再轉化成芳香，我們這群芳療師

那樣的「觸碰」帶給彼此的感受是然後，讓它們繼續存活，給它們空們繼續帶著精油，行駛在東部的

很不一樣的。那些我反覆提醒自己間。」山海間，透過香氣與撫觸，和年老

要做到的穩定、服貼、包圍，很自在我們使用的按摩油中，的人們待在一起。一位vuvu（排灣

然地都能展現出來，說穿了，那些許多配方都加了義大利永久花族語，阿嬤之意）牽起我的手，像

該透過雙手表現出來的質地其實（Helichr ysum it alicum），這是是看到孩子回家，露出很開心的笑

並非技巧，而是一份「心念」── 以「化瘀」功效著名的菊科小黃容，這個笑容天真得更像一位快

一份想好好對待眼前這個人的心花，成群生長在地中海沿岸。蠟菊樂、興奮的孩童。我不會說族語，

消除珍貴的記憶，至少在共同存活中心當志工，N i c o l e老師也和小玫的路上，我瞥見路旁一隻白腹秧雞

的此刻，我們所行之處都瀰漫著植姐、阿媛從臺東帶了幾箱精油，一的屍體，牠已被移到一棵桃花心

物芬芳的氣息，「三個深呼吸」，同前來服務。木下；一旁的草叢傳來環頸雉雄

手放上肩膀，我看見眼前的老人家現場好幾位失眠多日的受災鳥拍翅、宣示領域的嘓嘓聲。更遠

們露出天真的笑，在香氣中瞇起戶，在短短二十分鐘的按摩中便處的鳳頭蒼鷹也發出求偶時的熱