ABSTRACT

Denim garments is one of the most preferable apparel items in recent era especially to the youth. Day by day
the popularity is increasing but the matter of concern is that the last finishing process, washing requires a
huge amount of water, energy and organic and inorganic chemical. To safe our planet and to ensure a
sustainable environment there is no alternative of going through combined and waterless washing process.
This study show how much water, chemical & time, we are wasting with traditional process unnecessarily for
denim washing & also represents the cost effective & sustainable way. This thesis has concentrated on the
issue of sustainability by reducing steps of washing thus the consumption of time, water and chemical has also
been reduced. Garments were processed by removing the desize bath, double wash after every steps of
washing & reducing the softner & pH control bath without changing quality & shade & strength. 3\1 RHT
denim garments was taken for experiment and trialed in sustainable way. Various technical tests like color
fastness to rubbing, wash, water, perspiration (acid and alkaline) ,pH test, strength of tearing, strength of
tensile test ,BOD and COD were performed . The performance of garments, washed in sustainable way, was
good compared to lengthy conventional processed garments.

Chemical description
Ulterior pw-100i
It’s an anti-back staining agent, works as anti-redeposition of color and dirt also has soil release property. A
liquid substance with pH level 6 to 7. Recommended dose is 1 to 3 % based on bath solid substance . It’s a
product of ULTERION and mailing address is Ulterion International, LLC

Megasoft BBK
It’s a textile-softening agent used in the textile processing industry to achieve softness and fullness of textile
materials. It is cationic in nature and pH level is 5 to 6. Recommended dose is 1 to 3% on the weight of fabric.
It’s a product of CLENA and mailing address is S &D Associates,163/1A,no.36,old kesbewa road,
raththanapitiya , Sri Lanka

Anti-crease-256
It is popular as anti-creasing agent and used in denim, twill and all types of cotton fabric washing. It’s a
composition of fatty ester and non-ionic in nature with pH level 7.Recommended dose is 1 to 2 gram per liter
upto 65 degree centigrade temperature. A product of GDS and mailing address is 122/1 love road,teggaon
industrial area, Dhaka.
Sirrix NE
It’s a neutralizing agent , synergetic composition of organic acids for efficient and precise pH control. It’s a
product of Clariant and mailing address is: Clariant International Ltd, 19987.03.06.e

Stonezyme D5
Highly concentrated neutral cellulase enzyme having good grain, contrast and low staining property.
Recommended temperature is 40 to 45 and pH level is 6 to 7. It’s a product of KDN and mailing address is:
KDN Biotech (Shanghai ) Co.,Ltd

GENZYME-MCS 90
A neutral cellulase enzyme with pH level 6 to 7. Recommended doses are: 1 to 1.5 for only enzyme wash and
0.75 to 1.25 for stone enzyme wash at 40 to 45 steam. It’s a product of GDS and mailing address is: 122/1 love
road,teggaon industrial area, Dhaka.

Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD):

chemical oxygen demand (COD) test is commonly used to indirectly measure the amount of organic
compounds in water. Most applications of COD determine the amount of organic pollutants found in surface
water (e.g. lakes and rivers) or wastewater, making COD a useful measure of water quality. It is expressed in
milligrams per liter (mg/L), which indicates the mass of oxygen consumed per liter of solution

Most organic matter are completely oxidized by boiling of chromic acid & H2SO4 to produce carbondioxide &
water.

Hence measured quantity of effluent sample and distilled water is reflaxed separately with excess amount of
potassium di chromate(k2Cr2o7) in both solution are measured by titration with ferrous ammonium sulphate
using ferrion indicator.The difference two readily will give COD.

PROCEDURE:

1.Take 20 ml efflulent sample 250 ml reflex flask.

2.Add 5gm copper sulphate as catalyst

3.Add 30ml sulphuric acid

4.10ml 0.25N potassium dichromate(k2Cr2O7)

5.Reflux for 2 hrs.

6.Cool & add 80ml distilled water.

7.Add 2-3 drops ferrous indicator and titrate against 0.1N Ferrous ammonium sulphate(cool change bluish
green→wine red).
8.Take reading as V1.

9.Repeat experiment with pure distilled water and 2nd reding as V2.

10.COD of effluent sample is V2-V1.(The blanks experiment takes care of any thermal decomposition of
potassium dichromate(K2Cr207).

Biochemical oxygen demand (BOD):

Biochemical oxygen demand (BOD) is the amount of dissolved oxygen needed (i. e., demanded) by aerobic
biological organisms to break down organic material present in a given water sample at certain temperature over a
specific time period. The BOD value is most commonly expressed in milligrams of oxygen consumed per litre of
sample during 5 days of incubation at 20 °C and is often used as a surrogate of the degree of organic pollution of
water.

Steps of measuring BOD:

1. At first liquor is collected in a bottle

2. 95 ml of liquor is taken in a cylinder and 5 ml distilled water is added

3.then 100 ml solution is taken in a beaker and shaked to mix it properly.

4. by using DO meter Dissolved Oxigen -1 (DO-1) reading is taken.

5.the solution is stored in bottle in standard temperature (20’C) for 5 days.

6. after 5 days DO-2 is measured again.

7. from the result of DO-1 & DO-2 ,the value of BOD is measured . the difference of DO-1 and DO-2 is devided by
the volume of solute (0.05 L) to measure BOD value.

COLOR FASTNESS TO PERSPERITION (acid & alkaline medium) : To measure the persperition here followed
ISO-105-E04 method. Persperition is measured in two medium, alkali & acidic medium. In acid medium
required solution are-Sodium chloride -5 g/l, L-Histidin Monohydro chloride-0.5 g/l, Di-sodium hydrogen ortho
phosphate dihydrate-2.2 g/l & rest are distilled water.

Sample size--4*10 cm,

Multifibre size--4*10 cm.

Solution --1:50

At first attatch the sample & multifibre by sewing & dissolved this into solution at Ph-5.5 for 30 min .Removing
the extra water,set up on perspirometer with poly acrylic plate & use pressure bar.Then set up at 37±2 °C for 4
hrs in woven m/c then dry at 60 °C. Then grading the color change & color staining with multifibre.
For alkali medium required solution are-

Sodium chloride-5 g/l, L-Histidin monohydro chloride-0.5 g/l, Sodium di-hydrogen ortho-phosphate di-
hydrate-2.5 g/l & rest are distilled water. Here controlled pH=8.

Sample size--4*10 cm,

Multifibre size--4*10 cm.

Solution --1:50

At first attatch the sample & multifibre by sewing & dissolved this into solution at Ph-8 for 30 min .Removing
the extra water,set up on perspirometer with poly acrylic plate & use pressure bar.Then set up at 37±2 °C for 4
hrs in woven m/c then dry at 60 °C. Then grading the color change & color staining with multifibre.

COLOR FASTNESS TO WATER: According to method-ISO-105-E01 color fastness to water was measured. At
frist Attach the sample with multifibre & dissolved in distilled water at room temperature for 30 min. Remove
extra water set up in perspirometer with poly acrylic plate & press with pressure bar.Then set up at 37±2 °C
for 4hrs in woven m/c then dry at 60°C. Then grading the color fastness to water.

Sample size- 4*10 cm

Multifibre size-4*10 cm

Distilled water-1:50

COLOR FASTNESS TO WASH: The colour fastness to wash was evaluated according to ISO 105-C06.Here required
solution are ECE reference detergent B=4 g/l , Sodium perborate-1 g/l & rest are distilled water. Then grading
the color fastness to wash..

Sample size- 4*10 cm

Multifibre size-4*10 cm

Solution ratio: 1:50

Put the sample in steal biker with steal ball 10pcs at 40°C for 30 min .Here gyro wash m/c is used. Then rinse
with normal water & dry at 60 °C.

COLOR FASTNESS TO RUBBING:

The colour fastness to rubbing was evaluated according to ISO 105-X12 . Color fastness to rubbing are measure in
two condition .

1.Dry rubbing
2.Wet rubbing

Required instrument-

Crock meter.

Sample size-more than 10.4 cm

Rubbing cloth-5*5 cm

Rubbing cycle-10±1/10sec.

TEARING STRENGTH TESTING:

Tear strength was evaluated according to ISO ASTM-D2261. Universal testing machine (UTM) was used for
the measurement of various mechanical properties (Tensile strength, Tensile modulus, Elongation-at-break,
Bending strength, Bending modulus etc.) of the composite. The load range, speed, measuring unit, gauge length
etc. can be selected over a wide range. A computer is compiled to the instrument with relevant software. There
is a fixed jaw and a movable jaw. The sample is inserted within the jaws and pressure is applied by an input
system. The testing results are obtained from the output system.

M/C name: Universal strength tester,

m/c speed=300 mm/min

sample size=7.5*20 cm.

Standard tearing to warp=4.5 lbs

Standard tearing to weft=4 lbs

TENSILE STRENGTH TESTING:

The specimen for tensile strength measurement was prepared according to ASTM-D5034 standard . Crosshead speed
of 10 mm/min and gauge length of 50 mm were maintained. The load was continuously applied to the sample till it is
fractured. The loads and the corresponding extensions were recorded by the computer.

SAMPLE SIZE=10*15 cm.

Set up the sample between jaw & check the data from monitor.

Standard tensile strength for

Warp=60 lbs

Weft=50 lbs.
PH TESTING: Here ph is measured according to metod:ISO-3107.Liquior is prepared by adding 0.1M KCI in 1l
distilled water. 100 ml of this solution take into the biker & add sample.Set the biker on shaker & run 2 hrs.
After 2hrs measure the ph of sample with ph meter.

Requirement instruments,

1.Mechanical shaker

2.Ph meter

Sample weight=2 gm (size 0.5 mm)

LITERATURE REVIEW
Washing is a new finishing process in textiles field which has emerged as a new developing process in recent
time. Value addition of product is now greatly dependent on smooth and précised washing process. Since it’s
a new trend, very few research works have been conducted on this issue specially on sustainable washing
process. Some thesis works on washing and sustainable denim washing are enlisted below with brief
discussion :

1. L. Heikinheimo etc. all woked on ‘Treating Denim Fabrics with Trichoderma Reesei Cellulases’ and their outcome
was ‘Purified cellulase EG II is most effective at removing color from denim, producing a good stone washing effect with
the lowest hydrolysis level. Treatment with CBH I does not produce any stone washing effect, even at high enzyme
dosages. The commercial cellulase Ecostone® L produces a good stone washing effect, but the experimental cellulase
mixture Cellulase B removes color only with the highest enzyme dosage, i.e., when the amount of EGS in the mixture is
high enough.’

2. Arkady P. Sinitsyn, et.al. and all experimented on ‘Application of microassays for investigation of cellulase abrasive
activity and backstaining’ and the result was “Model microassays were used for testing the denim-washing performance
and indigo backstaining.. The performance of four purified cellulases (two endoglucanases and two cellobiohydrolases)
from C. lucknowense on cotton textiles was assayed, and the key enzyme (endoglucanase with a molecular weight of 25
kDa) responsible for high abrasion effects on denim fabrics was found.”

3.Wickramasinghe, and T.; Wickramasinghe investigated on “Process improvement in denim washing” This
research attempts to examine process improvements in denim washing in three directions; product quality, process quality
and environment pollution by water conservation, reuse of chemicals, waste minimization, waste recovery, effluent
control.

4.. A Sadeghian Maryan and M Montazer worked on ‘ One pot denim washing and finishing using organo-
montmorillonite: introducing nano mineral washing and finishing” . In this paper, organo-montmorillonite is
introduced as new material for washing of denim garments in a conventional washing machine to produce old-look
garments without prior desizing and post-chemical softening. Here, pumice stone replaced with organo-montmorillonite in
denim washing to obtain desirable properties.
5.Tyndall, R. Michael experimented on “Improving the Softness and Surface Appearance of Cotton Fabrics and Garments by
Treatment with Cellulase Enzymes” and found that ‘Cellulase enzymes are being used more and more by the denim washing
industry to accomplish a stone washed look without the stones, or at least fewer of them. The use of the enzymes on cotton provides a
softer finish and a different surface appearance. The author compares the use of cellulase alone and cellulase in combination with
stones with regular stone washing.”

6. Md Mashuir Rahman Khan and Md Ibrahim H Mondal studied on ’physico-Mechanical Properties of Finished
Denim Garment by Stone-Bleach Treatment’ and experimented that modification of denim trousers by washing
using pumice stone mixed with bleaching powder was investigated. The fresh-assembled denim trousers,
twill 3/1 weave and composition 100% cotton, have been processed by stone-bleach treatment using
parameters namely concentration of bleaching powder (5.0 to 15.0 g/L) (owl) with 30% pumice stone
(owg) at washing temperature 40oC and at pH 10.5 for treatment time 20 min in the fiber to liquor ratio
of 1:10 in an industrial sample washing machine.

7. Tullia Jack* , represents the laundry habits and resource consumption, to build a picture of the expectations and
actions surrounding the performance of cleanliness in everyday life. These surveys are triangulated against in-depth
interviews with people who had not washed their jeans for three months revealing qualitative insights into influences of
laundry practice.

8. Upama Nasrin Haq¹ and Md. Mashiur Rahman Khan²worked on TECHNOLOGY OF ACID WASH ON WOVEN DENIM APPAREL WITH
DAMP PUMICE STONE. The aim of this work was to study the technology of acid wash with damp pumice stone on woven denim
apparel (jeans)of 100% cotton indigo dyed, 3/1 twill weave.

9. Ali Sadeghian Maryan and Majid Montazerb researched on “ A cleaner production of denim garment using one step
treatment with amylase/cellulase/laccase. In this paper, bio-treatment process, using amylase, cellulase, laccase, and
their combinations applied on denim garment to conduct one step bio-desizing and bio-washing producing old-look
appearance garment is proposed and analyzed.

10. Chi-wai Kan examined on, “CO2 laser treatment as a clean process for treating denim fabric.” In this study, a carbon
dioxide (CO2) laser was used for the colour-fading treatment of denim fabrics. Two types of denim fabrics were laser-
treated: one was manufactured with low-twist yarn spun by torque-free ring-spinning technology, and the other was
manufactured by conventional ring-spun yarn.

11.Michesl eropen v. studied on ‘Process for combined desizing and “stone-washing” of dyed denim “ and
worked on A one-step process for combined desizing and “stone-washing” of dyed denim, wherein the denim is treated
with an amylolytic enzyme in combination with a first abrading monocomponent endoglucanase and a second streak-
reducing monocomponent endoglucanase.

12. J.V Maryan ,studied on ‘Sustainable production of denim garment using one step treatment with laccase”. In this
paper, bio-treatment process, laccase, was applied on denim garment to conduct one step bio-desizing and bio-washing
producing old-look appearance garment is proposed and analyzed and energy,water and raw material consumption was
reduced.

13. Md Zullhash Uddin, et. al. studied on sustainable washing for denim garments by Enzymatic Treatment, this paper
presents the effect of enzyme wash using cellulase enzyme on the properties of denim garments to develop novel design
and fashion. Three parameters in enzyme washing namely concentration off enzyme ,temperature & time at ph 5.5
considered.
14, Md.ibrahim et al. investigated on effect of bleach wash on physical and mechanical properties of denim garments and
this study observed the effect of bleach wash using bleaching powder on 100% cotton indigo dyed denim garments to
develop design & cost effective finishing.garments were processed using three parameters, bleach concentration 5g/l to
15g/l,temperature 40 c to 60 c & time 20min to 40 min.

15.Sumon mir et al. examined the evaluation of mechanical properties of denim garments after enzymatic Bio-washing.
This experiment was carried out to observe the effect of bio-friendly enzyme wash on the mechanical properties of denim
gmts constructed by 3/1 twill weave pattern. Cullulase enzyme in combination with stone & without stone is used for
washing followed by multiple steps. In this study,it is found that ,a garments constructed is largely affected by washing
especially gram per square meter(GSM).

2.THESIS BACKGROUND
ABOUT SUSTAINABLE WASH:

Sustainability is the capacity to maintain a certain process or state indefinitely. Sustainability has been
expressed as meeting the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet
their own needs.
An "unsustainable situation" occurs when natural capital (the sum total of nature's resources) is used up faster
than it can be replenished.
Sustainability requires that human activity only uses nature's resources at a rate at which they can be
replenished naturally.
In case of washing, sustainable wash means the capacity of reduce time, cost & save environments without
compromising the quality of products that was acquired normally.

“Sustainable development is development that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of
future generations to meet their own needs” Brundtland Politician and sustainable development leader
We still lack the know-how and technologies to be 100% sustainable; but we are already doing a great deal and
we can
Move Forward
 by reducing the water consumption required for treating garments
 by reducing the temperatures, required energy and co2emissions
 By using chemicals with lower environmental impact

Purpose of sustainable wash:

 To save the Time
 To save chemical process
 To reduce Process
 To reduce cost
 To save the environments
 To developed new design & fashion as a value added product

 Significant reductions in water and energy

• High concentrations – but reduced consumption of chemicals

• Minimum use of thickeners

• Precise and controlled liquid feed rates

• Flexibility in chemical applications

2.1 ABOUT DENIM:

Denim is a special fabric & it is made of vat dyed colored yarn as warp, on the other hand, white or grey
colored yarn as weft. Denim has become most popular and fashionable products, specially to the teenagers.

FEATURES OF DENIM FABRIC:

 Denim fabric has Vat dyed ( Indigo & Sulphure ) warp and white or grey weft.
 Normally twill weave is used as weave plan of denim fabric
 Usually made of cotton yarn, ring or rotor spun yarns are most preferable for warp.
 Yarn count ranges from 6 Ne to 20 Ne
 Fabic has better durability & strength.
 Denim fabric has good color fastness to wash & light property.

Fabric weight is from 4 to 12 oz/sq.yd. based on weight fabric can be classified into 3 types.

1. Light Weight Fabric: 4 to 7.5 oz/sq.yd

2. Medium Weight Fabric: 7.5 to 10 oz/sq.yd
3. Heavy Weight Fabric: above 10 oz/sq.yd

2.2 history of denim:

The name "denim" derives from French serge de Nîmes, meaning "serge from Nîmes".[3][4]

Denim was traditionally colored blue with indigo dye to make blue jeans, although "jean" formerly denoted a different,
lighter, cotton fabric. The contemporary use of the word "jeans" comes from the French word for Genoa, Italy (Gênes),
[1]
where the first denim trousers were made. Denim has been used in the USA since the mid 19th century. Denim initially
gained popularity in 1873 when, Jacob Davis, a tailor from Nevada, manufactured the first pair of “rivet-reinforced” denim
pants.[5] His concept for making reinforced jeans was inspired when a lady customer requested a pair of durable and
strong pants for her husband to chop wood. When Davis was about to finish making the denim jeans, he saw some
copper rivets lying on a table and used the rivets to fasten the pockets. At this time, clothes for Western labourers, such
as teamsters, surveyors, and miners, were not very durable. Soon, the popularity of denim jeans began to spread rapidly
and Davis was overwhelmed with requests. He soon sold 200 pairs to workers in need of heavy work clothing.
[5]
Nevertheless, because of the production capacity in his small shop, Davis was struggling to keep up with the demand .
He then wrote a proposal to the dry goods wholesaler Levi Strauss & Co. that had been supplying Davis with bolts of
denim fabric.[5] Davis’s proposal was “to patent the design of the rivet-reinforced denim pant, with Davis listed as inventor,
in exchange for certain rights of manufacture”.[5] Levi Strauss & Co. was so impressed by the possibilities for profit in the
manufacture of the garment that they then hired Davis to be in charge of the mass-production in San Francisco.[5]

The story of denim is a tale rich in paradox. Cherished alike by cowboys and models, the fabric is at once a
symbol of the counterculture and the raw material of a major industry. A simple fabric, dating back to 17th-
century France, denim today is ubiquitous: Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood have pushed it into
the forefront of high fashion; and Calvin Klein and Giorgio Armani have made it the basis for billion-dollar
brands. This homage to the much-loved fabric delves deep into the archives to trace the origins and
development of denim. It features rare pictures of icons wearing denim, like Marilyn Monroe and Steve
McQueen, plus specially commissioned photos of rare and classic garments from the 1880s to the present day.
It is complete with a glossary and a guide to valuable vintage items.
Chronological development of denim is as following:

Jeans origin began at 16thcentury. ³Jean´ cloth material is used in Italy for clothing. Almost at the same time a material was
produced in England that would later becalled ³denim´. The name comes from France, from the fabric which they producedcalled,
serge de Nimes (material from Nimes). It was then sold to the Genoese navy.In1849- The origin of jeans started in America.

1853- Levi started a small wholesale business and supplying workers and minerswith work cloths that were very strong and long
lasting.
1872- He became partner with Jacob Davis.
1873- All men and specially workers started to buy jeans because of the durabilityand comfort and the long lasting quality.
1886- Lathers label is sewed on the back of the jeans. On that picture it shows the jean is pulled between the two horses but it
doesn¶t tear and remains strong. Thatadvertisement is just to show how strong denim jeans are.
1890s- The denim jeans were assigned the number.
1920s- Levis jeans became so popular and the leading products in men¶s work
.1930s- In movies cow boys used blue denim jeans very much from then it becameso popular.
1940s- Less jeans were made because of the World War II. Soldiers used jeans for their rest time.
1950s- Denim became popular in the young generations. Some schools in USAbanned students on wearing of denim jeans.
1960s- Jeans became out of fashion because of other dresses.
1970s- Denim jeans took a new forma and shape and it becomes a complete denim jump suit.
1970s-Jeans became uniform of concerts and the Rock n¶ roll events.
1970- Two more brands namely Wrangler and Lee came into play and make jeans.
1970- Jean denim also came into a new form like Bermuda shorts or miniskirts.
1980- Denim jeans entered to the mass market
1990s- Fall of denim jeans due to many others fabric
1990s- Denim was mixed with the others fabric like Lycra.

2.3 Various types of denim:

2.3.1 Dry or raw denim

Dry or raw denim (contrasted with "washed denim") is denim that is not washed after having been dyed during
production.

Denim fibers from an old pair of jeans through a microscope

Over time, dry denim will usually fade, which is considered desirable by some people. During the process of
wear, fading will usually occur on those parts of the article that receive the most stress. On a pair of jeans, this
includes the upper thighs, the ankles, and the areas behind the knees.

After being made into an article of clothing, most denim articles are washed to make them softer and to reduce
or eliminate shrinkage (which could cause the article to not fit properly after its owner washes it). In addition to
being washed, "washed denim" is sometimes artificially distressed to produce a "worn" look. Much of the
appeal of artificially distressed denim is that it resembles dry denim which has faded. In jeans made from dry
denim, such fading is affected by the body of the person who wears them and by the activities of their daily life.
This process creates what many enthusiasts feel to be a look more "natural" than artificially distressed denim. [6]

To facilitate the natural distressing process, some wearers of dry denim will abstain from washing their jeans for
more than six months.[7] Most dry denim is made with 100% cotton and comes from several different countries.
In particular, the United States, Zimbabwe and Japan are popular sources of cotton for making raw denim. [6]

.[6] Patterns of fading

Natural "honeycomb" fades

Patterns of fading in jeans, caused by prolonged periods of wearing them without washing, have become the
main allure of dry denim. Such patterns are a way of "personalizing" the garment.[8]

These patterns have specific names:

 Combs or honeycombs – These are faded lines that are found behind the knees.
 Whiskers – Faded streaks that surround the crotch area of the jeans.
 Stacks – These are created by having the inseam of the jeans hemmed a few inches longer than the actual leg
length. The extra fabric then stacks on top of the shoe, causing a faded area to form around the ankle, extending
up to the calf area.
  Train tracks – These appear on the outseams of the denim. This pattern showcases the selvage by forming two
parallel lines of fades which resemble train tracks.


2.3.2 Selvedge/selvage denim:

Denim jeans showing the selvedge of the fabric joined to make a seam is known as selvedge denim. Selvedge
denim refers to a unique type of selvedge that is made by means of using one continuous cross-yarn (the weft),
which is passed back and forth through the vertical warp beams. This is traditionally finished at both edges with
a contrasting warp (most commonly red); that is why this type of denim is sometimes referred to as "red
selvedge." This method of weaving the selvage is possible only when using a shuttle loom.

Crosshatch / Streak / Rain Denims

Recently, the usage of characteristic yarns, such as slubby and multi count yarns, both in ring
spinning and open end rotor spinning system in denims are on the rise. These yarns need additional
monitoring of Slub parameters. Fancy yarn module of UT-5 serves this purpose with testing of Slub
parameters -Slub frequency, Slub Length and Mass increase in addition to yarn diameter, yarn
density and shape. Aggressive slub parameters tend to lower Yarn Strength and poor performance at
subsequent processes. The minimum tenacity values as tested using Uster Tensorapid for satisfactory
performance level is given in Table-10.4 in Row 3 and 7. Beyond which compromise needs to be made
among Slub parameters or performance levels or cotton fibre characteristics.

Chinos

Two ply chino denims in indigo dyed shade have a unique soft hand feel, Fabric cover and a luxurious
appeal.

Tencel Denim

Woven century luxury cellulosic fibre made from specially grown woods and transformed in non-
chemical process which give feel of silk and comfort of cotton.
Stretch Denims

For stretch denims, Core-Spun Cotton Spandex, Poly Spandex and Type -400 yarns are generally
employed. Core-Spun Cotton Spandex yarns in denims range 10s to 16s Ne and uses generally 70
denier filament; though 40, 55 and 120 denier filaments are also available. The Spandex % of Core-
spun cotton spandex yarn ranges from 3.5 to 5.5 %. The twist multiplier is 4.4.

Union Denims

Denims are differentiated with weft yarns to create Union Fabrics. The union denims produced in
large volumes uses the following weft yarns in the same order – Polyester Texturised Filament,
Stretch yarns of Poly Spandex and Type -400 yarns, and Pre-bleached Linen Yarns.

Poly Denim

Polyester Texturised Yarns in denim applications range 300 to 600 denier, with a tenacity of 4.0 g/tex
and 20 to 27% extension. Bulk which is expressed in %HCC (Hot Crimp Contraction) is about 40 and
nips per metre ranges from 70 to 90 for better performance.
Grey as well as dyed yarns are being used.

Poly Stretch Denim

Poly spandex yarns used in denims range 150 to 300 denier with 6 to 12 % spandex. Nips per metre
for better weaving performance is 100 to 130. Type -400 yarns from Invista used in denim
applications range 150 to 600 denier with a bulk of 50% HCC and nips per metre of 35 to 50.

Linen Vintages

Pre-bleached Linen yarns range 9s to 16s Ne [or 25 to 44 Lea]. Though these yarns have very high
strength of over 3000 csp and 20 cN/tex, due to low elongation of 2% and the natural variation in
yarn, the loom performance as well as full width defects is poor in comparison with normal denim.
2.4 DENIM MANUFACTURING PROCEDURE
2.4.1 PROCESS FLOW CHART:

Yarn collection from spinning factory

↓
Warping
↓
Yarn dyeing
↓
sizing
↓
Weaving
↓
Finishing
↓
Garments Manufacturing
↓
Washing
↓
Inspection
↓
Delivery

2.4.2 YARN COLLECTION FROM SPINNING MILLS:

Normally ring & rotor spun yarns are used as warp, slub yarn of ring and rotor spinning are also being used now
a days .As weft yarn, ring ,rotor, synthetic, core spun are mostly preferable. Lycra & Polyester yarn are mostly
used as synthetic weft.
2.4.3 WARPING :
For denim production 2 types of warping processes is used mostly; direct warping for slasher dyeing
& ball warping for rope dyeing.
2.4.3.1 DIRECT WARPING:
High speed warping also called Beam warping/Direct warping. In high speed warping the yarn is wound
parallel on the warping beam. All the yarns are wound at once and simple flanged beam is used. It is a very high
speed process and is used for making fabric of single colour.

Flow Chart of High Speed Warping

Creel
↓
Beam for sizing
↓
Weaver’s Beam

Features of High Speed Warping

1. It is used to make common fabrics in large quantities
2. It is used to produce weavers beam from single yarn
3. The production is high
4. Large amount of yarn is required to produce a weavers beam
5. Sizing is done
6. Simple flanged beam is used and drums are not required

2.4.3.2 BALL WARPING:

Ball Warping: Equipment required to form the rope of yarn. It involves creeling multiple ends of yarn
( Between 350-500 ends) and collecting them into an untwisted rope for dyeing. the rope is wound onto a long
cylinder called a log on a machine called as a ball warper.

Some Notes

1. Packages of yarn are preconditioned before ball warping

2. Packages are loaded into the creel ( larger lots- magine transefer creeL0 and smaller lots- swing gate or truck
creel
3. Packages are placed on adapters. An adapter support the package of yarn and ensure that the package remains
aligned to the tensioning devices. Wooden plug type adapter are most effective as they require least amount of
exertion to remove the empty package.

Next Step is threading the tensioner located at each yarn package

1. Post and Disk tensioner. It has two posts mounted onto a flat base. two round disk are placed onto each post.
The yarn is threaded between the disk and wrapped around the post. One of the parts is movable so that the
angle of wrap can be varied. More tension can be added to the yarn by adding round weights onto the top disk.
Advantages are 1. Inexpnsive 2. does Marginally adequate job of maintaining yarn tension 3. Simple to thread
up 4. Low maintenance requirements.

Disadvantages are 1. Yarn has a tendency to jump out from between the disks at the rear of the creel. 2. It is
labour intensive- when different tension levels are required. 3. There is more frequency of cleaning up 4. It
doesnt control tension well at higher speed.

2. The driven disk tensioner

It also uses twin disk arrangement, however the disks are supported from below- there are no posts. Tension is
applied from above- there are weights or spring loaded.
A gear under each pair of disks is matched to another gear mounted on a continuous shaft which runs the length
of the vertical tension post. This shaft is connected to a 4 rpm motor which rotates the disk.

Advantage of disk rotation are

1. Thread cutting prevention
2. Dampens out variation due to ballooning action of yarn.
3 There is mor uniform tension
4. Less effor required to change tension levels.

Disadvantages are
1. It is more difficult to thread up, there is more maintenance due to electric motor used and at high speed the
tension control is not well.

2.4.4 WARP DYEING:

Warp yarns are dyed with vat dyes, specially indigo and sulphur dye. 2 dyeing process are mostly used for
yarn dyeing;

About Vat Dye:

Vat dyes are a class of dyes that are classified as such because of the method by which they are applied. Vat
dyeing is a process that refers to dyeing that takes place in a bucket or vat.. The original vat dye is indigo, once
obtained from plants but now produced synthetically.

Vat dyes characteristically require a reducing agent to solubilize them. The most common reducing agent
is sodium dithionite (Na2S2O4), which converts the dye to its "leuco" form that is soluble. Once attached to the
fabric, the leuco dye is then oxidized to the insoluble state which is intensely colored. Chemical reactions such
as oxidation, reduction, pH control are often necessary; even the dissolution process necessitates measuring
out appropriate quantities of caustic soda and sodium hydrosulphite in order to achieve reduction. The dye is
soluble only in its reduced (oxygen-free) form. The fiber is immersed repeatedly in this oxygen-free dyebath,
then exposed to the air, whereupon the water-soluble reduced form changes color as oxygen turns it to the
water-insoluble form. For these reasons, vat dyes are less suitable than fiber-reactive dyes for amateur use.

About indigo dye:

Indigo is most common vat dye and hugely used for denim . indigo dye is water insoluble and has good color
fastness to wash but poor color fastness to rubbing.
Indigo Dye:
Indigo dye,which is one of the natural dyes there have been sustained to use.Indio is come from “Indigofera tinctoru” in
india which is blue in color.The group of the colorants indigo is one of the oldest known as the natural dyes.The naturally
is that occur material is material is Indian,the colorless gluecoside of indoxyl.When it is subjected to a fermentation
process ,free indoxyl was generated by the enzyme hydrolysis & the compound undergoes oxidation in fair to
indigo.There is a challenging dye of indigo due to is not a soluble in water.If it is necessary to dissolved,there should be
undergoing the chemical change.Reduction transform the indigo into the“ white indigo” when the fabric removed from
the dye bath,the indigo will quickly mix the oxygen & join the it to an insoluble & produced colored indigo.In
fact ,environment will affect the color of indigo,as in the vapour phase,the situation is approaches a monomolecular
state ,and the indigo it shown the red.When it is pronounced positive solvatochromism, in polar solvents it should be
violet.And if in the polar solvent,there should be blue.Also,when applied the fabric invat dye,it should be blue.

Indigo dye is imparting in a blue color & has a good wet fastness property.Indigo have the moderate light fastness,and
even there have the fading of the color,there without change of color.As there are availablefor using in the jeans and the
denim item.

About Sulphur Dye:

Sulphur dye is common vat dye for denim,but it has toxicity and bad impact on environment. Sulphur dye is also
water insoluble and it has good color fastness to washing property but very poor color fastness to rubbing
property.

Mainly 2 dyeing processes are commonly used for vat dyeing. These are:

1. Slasher dyeing process

2. Rope dyeing process.

2.4.4.1 Slasher Dyeing Process:

In continuous slasher / sheet dyeing and sizing machine, direct warping beams are used, instead of ball warping
logs in case of Indigo rope dyeing system. The Slasher Dyeing machine is capable of handling Ne count form
9/s to 30/s (OE and Slub both). At the back end of the slasher / sheet dyeing range, the direct warping beams are
creeled. The yarns sheet from each beam is pulled over and combined with the yarns from the other beams so
that multiple sheets of yarns can be made.
 Creeling of direct warping beam in Sheet dyeing machine
In sheet dyeing range, the total No of required ends for a weavers beam are dyed, dried, sized and dried
simultaneously. The back direct warping beam contains 380- 420 ends, similar to rope, but the ends are
distributed evenly over the width of the flanges and the end lay parallel to each other.

This continuous slasher dyeing range eliminates a few intermediate processes of the rope dyeing, such as re-
beaming, sizing. The yarn sheet from the back beam passes through wash boxes, where it is treated with caustic
and subsequently washed with normal water. After squeezing the excess water; the yarn sheet passes through
Dye baths and skied for oxidation as in the case of rope dyeing. This develops the indigo coating on the yarn.
After dyeing, the dyed yarn is washed by passing through 3-4 wash boxes and finally squeezed before allowing
it to pass through drying cylinders. The dyed yarn then enters into the sow box, where it is sized. Subsequently
the yarn sheet is dried.

The yarn sheets then passes through a set of stainless steel split rods, which separate them into individual sheets,
equivalent to the number of section beams in the creel. After passing through the split rods, the yarn sheets are
collected into single sheet and passed through a expansion comb at the head stock, which separate individual
yarns. The expansion comb can be adjusted to the desired loom beam width. Slasher dyeing range typically
consists of 1-2 wetting vats, 4-8 dye baths and 3-4 rinsing troughs. The immersion and oxidation times lie
between 10-20s or 45-60s.

Process Sequence in Indigo Slasher/ Sheet Dyeing:

The passage of flow of yarns in slasher dyeing is shown below-

Pretreatment
↓
Washing
↓
Dyeing
↓
Washing
↓
Drying
↓
Sizing
↓
Drying
 2.4.4.2 Rope Dyeing Process:

Rope Dyeing is considered a superior dyeing technology where the dyeing uniformity achieved is better than
other Indigo Dyeing technologies like Slasher Dyeing.
However, Rope Dyeing is a also a more difficult dyeing technology. One needs to master its nitty gritties to get
the best out of the system.

2.4.5 weaving Process:

For denim fabric weaving different types of weaving m/c can be used, some commom m/c are mentioned
below:

 Air-jet
 Rapier
 Projectile
 Dobby
 Conventional tappet

Main weave plan is 2/1 or 3/1 RHT (right hand twill). On the other
hand ,some special weave planning are as following:

 1/1 (chambray)
 2/2 RHT
 Zigzag twill
 Harringbone twill
 Brocken twill
 Diamond design
 5/1 satin weave
 E.t.c

2.4.6 FINISHING PROCESS:

For denim fabric ,following finishing processes are commonly used to improve the fabric quality & also
to meet standard of buyers:

 Singeing: The fabric is then singed in both or only face side which burn off the protruding fibers from the
fabric surface. Normally denim fabric is singed twice in a single passage of a singeing machine. The denim
finished fabric must have soft and pleasant handle.

 Brushing: In the brushing stage, the grey fabric is brushed to remove the loose lint and loose fluff from the
fabric surface. It also raised the protruding fibers on the fabric surface which are removed in the next stage of
singeing process.

 Softening: After the singing range, the fabric is subjected to a chemical pad treatment. Softeners are often
used in the chemical treatment in order to impart soft feeling of the fabric.

 Skew control: The skewness in denim fabric, particularly in twill weave creates a serious problem in
subsequent garment manufacturing and its washing. Leg twist is a major problem in denim manufacturing. Due
to this problem the leg is rotated in the opposite direction of the twill of the fabric after laundering. Leg twist is
assumed to be happen due to the directional yarn stresses. These are inherent in regular twill weave fabrics and
developed during weaving. During washing the yarn stresses is relaxed which change the regular position of
interlacement between warp and filling yarns. Due to this reason the legs are twisted. Normally leg twist not
shown on garment stage. It only observed after laundering of the garment. Although leg twist appears after first
laundering and it increases progressively with repeated launderings
 Stentering: Stenter is used for control the width of fabric by fixing a definite width
 Sanforizing: Sanforizing is a mechanical finishing process of treating textile fabrics to prevent the normal
dimensional alternation of warp & weft. After sanforizing the residual shrinkage of woven fabric may be zero.

The sole objective of sanforizing is to control the length wise shrinkage of fabric. The maximum percentage of shrinkage
depends on fabric construction and quality but controlled according to the customer specifications.

 Calendering: After grey fabric is subjected to singeing, softening, skewness, sanforizing etc. it is finally
dried to retain its true shape and dimensions. But in this state the fabric becomes least lustrous. Because for
those operations the threads in fabric become wavy and crimped. But if a fabric is to appear highly lustrous then
its surface should be parallel to each other and all should lie in the length direction.
  Desizing: Desizing is the process of removing size materials from fabric. This is done simply passing the
fabric through some hot water bath for several times. Sometimes softener can be used for better removing of
size materials and also for better soft hand feeling.

 Mercerizing: Mercerization is a physio-chemical process where yarn (cotton) is treated with 15-25% caustic
soda solution at a temperature of 200-300C. It is necessary to hold the fabric under tension and wash thoroughly

2.4.7 Washing process:

The technology which is used to modify the appearance,outlook comfort ability & fashion of the garments is called
garment washing. Denim washing is aesthetic finish given to denim fabric to enhance the demand and
to provide strength. Dry denim as opposed to washed denim is a denim fabric that is not washed after
being dyed during its production.
Much of the appeal of dry denim lies in the fact that with time fabric will fade in a manner
similar to that which artificially distressed denim attempts to replicate . With dry denim
however such fading is affected by the body of the person who wears jeans and the
activities of their daily life. This creates what many fell to be more natural, unique look
than pre distressed denim.
It is a new technology by which outlook , size , comfort ability and fashion of a garment are
changed or modified . This technology was first appeared in Bangladesh in 1988.Before
that washing was carried out only in Hong Kong and Singapore , i.e. after sewing
garments were sent to abroad for washing and again brought here back for finishing ,
tagging and packing . As a result , extra overhead cost ( freight , washing charge, time
consumptions ) was drawn in.

The changes occur due to following actions :

1. Mechanical / rubbing / abrasion between garments to garments .
2. Garments to machine; and
3. Chemical action.

Objects of denim washing:

 To develop softness in garments : Size materials applied during manufacturing
present in the fabric are removed which enhances soft hand feel . Additional softness
may be attained by using softener .
 To introduce fading effect : Dyes or pigments are present in the fabric , used during
coloration, are washed out locally or partially which result fading or worn out effects in
the garments.
 To create new fashion : Washing Process of denim bring different outlook ( faded,
color tinted etc ) thus creating new fashion for the new generation especially for
teenagers.
 To satisfy the consumer :As the contraction or extraction (shrinkage ) occur due to
washing , the wearer can use the garments after purchase satisfactory

Advantages of garments washing:

The following advantages are obtained could be gained from the garments washing
—
 Removal of starch or size materials make the fabric soft hand feel.
 Softness could be increased by the addition of softener just at the last stage of washing.
 Dirt, spots, impurities, gum etc, if accumulated in the denim garments during
manufacturing could be removed.
 During washing shrinkage may takes place, therefore after washing there is no
possibility to create such problem.
 Washed garments could be worn directly after purchase .
 Faded or worn out effect could introduced to the garments which creates new fashion.
 Similar outlook can be obtained by different washing techniques.
 Comparatively lower capital is required to set up a washing plant.
 Lower land space and least manpower cost are required to run a washing
plant.

Unavoidable changes / limitations of denim garments washing

Like other processes the garments washing is also not without some limitations. They
included as below-
 Garments size change : Size change takes place due to shrinkage properties of
fabric . The amount of shrinkage properties of fabric determine the size change of the
garments.
 Size material is partly removed : Unfixed dyes may remain on the surface of the
garments and it is necessary to remove completely after washing.

2.4.6.1 Types of denim washing:

There are mainly 2 types of denim washing process.

 1.Dry process

2.Wet process

Dry process has the following process:

 Hand whisker/Laser whisker.

 Hand sanding
 Tacking/tagging
 Destroy
 Grinding
 P.p spray
 3D Crinkle
 Laser
 Pigment spray
 Ozone treatment

Wet process has the following process:

 Desizing
 Enzyme
 Bleaching
 Neutralization
 Tinting
 Fixing
 Softening

There are some special washing procedure, these are noted below:

 Acid wash
 Stone wash
 Towel wash
 Ball wash
 Foam wash
 Burn out wash
 Sand wash
 Ice wash
 Sock wash
  Net wash
 E.t.c

2.4.6.2 briefly discussion about various types of wash

12.3Briefly discussion on all the washing processes:

 whisker:
A dry washing process mainly done to get stain effect with the help of emery paper.

 Blasting (hand /sand):

Mainly done to remove color and to get a fade effect. it can be obtained either hand or sand blasting process.

 Destroy /tearing:
Tearing effect is obtained by destroying the warp yarn with the help of tearing machine

 Tagging effect:
Designed area is pinned up, Deep shade effect is brought about in tagged area, color is not removed from this area.

 3D effect:
Three dimensional effect is brought about on fabric surface.This is performed by spraying / dipping and heating. This is a
permanent wash effect.

 Fashionable wash:
Based on new trend fashionable wash is done. Fashionable wash accessories are used to obtain this effect. Towel, stone,
ball, foam, sock etc. accessories are used for fashionable wash.

 Rinse wash:
This is normal washing process only with water at room temperature.

 Enzyme wash:
Liquid, powder, bio polish, lackage enzyme are used to get washing effect. Powder enzyme provide the blue shade.Bio
polish enzyme remove hairiness, Lackage enzyme provide bleach like effect.

 Bleach wash:
For blue shade/ reddish shade bleaching is carried out . Different bleaching agents impart different types of shade and
tones.

Denim Bleach

In this process a strong oxidative bleaching agent such as sodium hypochlorite or KMnO4 is added during the washing
with or without stone addition. Discoloration produced is usually more apparent depending on strength of the bleach
liquor quantity, temperature and treatment time. It is preferable to have strong bleach with short treatment time. Care
should be taken for the bleached goods so that they should be adequately antichlored or after washed with peroxide to
minimize yellowing. Materials should be carefully sorted before processing for color uniformity.

Objective:

To remove the size material from the garments.

8. To remove the starch present on the garments.
9. For soft feeling to wear the garments.
10. To increase the color fastness and rubbing fastness.
.

Mechanism of bleach action:

Color in most dyes and pigments are produced by molecules, such as beta carotene, which contain
chromophores. Chemical bleaches work in one of two ways:
Oxidizing bleach works by breaking the chemical bonds that make up the chromophore. This changes the
molecule into a different substance that either does not contain a chromophore, or contains a chromophore that
does not absorb visible light.
Reducing bleach works by converting double bonds in the chromophore into single bonds. This eliminates the
ability of the chromophore to absorb visible light

Chemistry:
The process of bleaching can be summarized in the following set of chemical reactions:
Cl2(aq) + H2O(l)------- H+(aq) + Cl–(aq) + HClO(aq)
The H+ ion of the hypochlorous acid then dissolves into solution, and so the final result is effectively:
Cl2(aq) + H2O(l)---- 2H+(aq) + Cl–(aq) + ClO–(aq)
Hypochlorite tends to decompose into chloride and a highly reactive form of oxygen:
ClO– -------- Cl– + O2

After bleach washing we get this change:

 Color
 GSM decrease
 Softener
 Strength
Enzyme Wash:

Enzymes are proteins, found in all living organisms, plants, as well as animals and microorganism. All organisms produce
a wide range of enzymes. Enzyme washing is ecologically friendly due to the natural origins of enzymes. Enzymes act on
living cells and can be work at atmospheric pressure and in mild temp and pH.

In recent years, there has been increasing interest in the use of environmentally friendly, nontoxic, fully biodegradable
enzymes in the modern textile technology finishing process. Enzymatic treatment can replace a number of mechanical
and chemical operations, which have been applied to improve the comfort and quality of fabrics by now. In the textile
industry enzymes are applied mainly to get a cleaner fabric surface with less fuzz, to reduce tendency to pill formation,
to improve handle, to smooth surface combining with traditional softeners. The development studies of this area have
been focused on applying enzymes on cellulose materials based on cotton, linen, viscose and their blends with
synthetics fibres.

Cellulase enzymes are a mix of enzymes that depolymerise cellulose into glucose and other lower molecular. In fabric
made of cellulose fibres, the cellulase enzymes are by hydrolyze removing the fibres of the surface, even the ones who
holds dye . The neutral enzymes gives less back staining and works best with pH value between 6,0- 8,0 and shows best
activity at 55° C. Acid cellulose enzymes works best in the pHrange of 4,5-5,5 and have optimum activity at 50° C.

For denim washing, mainly three types of enzymes are being used. That is neutral, acid and bio polishing enzymes. The
process has to be strictly controlled because of the enzymes sensitivity to temperature, time and pH. These three
parameters highly affect the result and too big variations can cause damage on the fabric . After finishing an enzyme
wash, a washing process that rinses the garment has to be done, to make sure there is no enzyme residue left. This
process can be made in different ways and it will also give the garment a better appearance .

Objectives of enzyme washing:

1. To remove the size material from the garments.
2. To remove the starch present on the garments.
3. For soft feeling to wear the garments.
4. To increase the color fastness and rubbing fastness.
5. Especially develop the “Bio-polishing’’ affect cotton/Denim.
6. Enzyme improves the anti-pilling properties.
7. Enzyme attacks more the surface of the fabrics and gives a very smooth surface.

Types of Enzyme:
Mainly two types of Enzyme:
1. Acid Enzyme
2.Neutral Enzyme
Form of enzyme:
a. Powder
b. Liquid form.
The chemistry of enzyme:
Enzymes are naturally-occuring proteins capabale of catalyzing specific chemical reactions & being catalysts,facilitate the
reaction without being consumed.After catalyzing the chemical reaction,therefore the enzyme is released & is able to
catalyze another reaction & so on.

Enzyme have a protein like structure with primary,secondary,tertiary & quanternary structures & are susceptible to
denaturing(degradation due to temperature,ionizing radiation ,light,acids,alkalis & biological effects factors).The textile
& clothing sector is now a major user of enzymes during manufacturing & after-care.Cellulases are widely used in textile
application.Cellulases are high molecular colloidal protein catalysts in metabolic form & are commonly produced by soil-
dwelling fungi & bacteria.Industrial cellulases are complexes of a number of cellulases,cellobiase & related enzymes in
non-uniform composition,with molecular weight ranging from 10,000 to 400.000.

Cellulases comprise a multicomponent enzyme system,including endoglucalases(EGs) that hydrolyse celllusoe chains
randomly,cellobiohydrolases(CBHS) that split cellobose from cellulose ends & cellobiases that hydrolyses cellobiose to
glucose.EG or EG-rich preprations are best for aging & defibrillation of fibre surfaces,while complete cellulase systems
are best for cleaning & depilling effects.In general,there are two major commercial classifications of cellulase enzymes
based on optimum ranges: ‘acid cellulases’ ,exhibit the the most activity within the pH range 4.5-5.5,at a temperature of
45-55°c,while‘ neutral celluases’ are more effective in the 5.5-8.0.pH range at 50-60°c.Currently,acid cellulases & neutral
cellulases & neutral cellulases are more commonly used.With alkaline cellulases,there is a possibility of applying the
enzymes in combination with reactive dyes from a dye bath.

LOCK AND KEY THEORY OF ENZYME ACTION:

The Lock and Key analogy first postulated in 1894 by Emil Fischer. Here the lock is the enzyme and the key is the
substrate. Only the correctly sized key (substrate) fits into the key hole (active site) of the lock (enzyme).

Larger keys, smaller keys, or incorrectly positioned teeth on keys (incorrectly shaped or sized substrate molecules) do
not fit into the lock (enzyme). Particular lock can only be open by correctly shaped key. Key fits lock-turns, it thus
opening the door for reaction to proceed. Enzymes reject dissimilar substance and accept substrate -reaction proceed.

APPLICATION OF VARIOUS ENZYMES IN TEXTILE INDUSTRY

Amylases: Used for desizing.

Cellulase: Used for bio-polishing and denim finishing.

Protease: Used for wool finishing.

Catalase: Used for bleach cleanup.

Laccase: Used for discoloration of indigo dyes.

MACHINE AND MARERIALS

Industrial Washing Machine:

Features:
 1. Single door design for general washing, sweater and knit washing machine.
2. Automatic washing timer and pre-set front and backward rotation.
3. Option to install 4 steps gear box or frequency controller for speed control for different requirement of
garments.

4.Option with water level ruler

Figure: front loading washing machine

MACHINE SPECIFICATION:

NAME: FRONT LOADING WASHING MACHINE

MODEL: MKM-480

BRAND: DANIS

CAPACITY: 480 lb

ORIGIN: TURKEY

ROTATION: DOUBLE

VOLTAGE: 380 Volt, FREQUENCY: 50-60 H

Industrial Water Extractor:

Features:
1. Special Design for Industrial Laundry
2. Stainless steel inner basket, durable and strongly built
3. Equipped with shake absorbing spring
4. With hand clutch for fast-stop
5. Installed with insulated motor and automatic clutch for fast start and longevity

Figure: Industrial water extractor

MACHINE SPECIFICATION:

NAME: CENTIFUGAL HYDRO EXTRACTOR

BRAND: TONGXIN

ORIGIN; CHINA

ROTATION: ANTI-CLOCK WISE

SIZE: 2182 X 1580 X 888

VOLTAGE: 380 Volt, FREQUENCY: 50 Hz

IMPUT POWER :7.5 KW

Industrial Drying Machine:

Features:
1. Preset forward and backward rotation of inner basket.
2. Stainless steel inner basket, clean and durable Equipped with thermostat.
3. Solenoid steam value set for steam save and temperature control.

Figure: Industrial dryer

MACHINE SPECIFICATION:

BRAND: TONGXIN

ORIGIN:CHINA

MODEL: LDS-300

TYPE: STEAM

VOLTAGE: 380 Volt, PRESSURE: 0.3-0.6 MPa

POWER: 8.4 KW, ROTATION: DOUBLE

UNIVERSAL STRENHTH TESTING MACHINE

A universal testing machine (UTM) was used for the measurement of various mechanical properties (Tensile
strength, Tensile modulus, Elongation-at-break, Bending strength, Bending modulus etc.) of the composite.
The load range, speed, measuring unit, gauge length etc. can be selected over a wide range. A computer is
compiled to the instrument with relevant software. There is a fixed jaw and a movable jaw. The sample is
inserted within the jaws and pressure is applied by an input system. The testing results are obtained from the
output system.

Fig.4.3: Image of a Universal Testing Machine

Specification:

Model: H5OKS-0404

Band Name: HOUNSFIELD

Country of origin: UK

Electrical data: 230 volts, 50/60 Hz, 5.2 KW (Heat), 1 Phase, 23 amp (in full load).

INCUBATOR (WOVEN):This is used for drying purpose.

Specification:

MODEL:LDO- 030E
Band Name: Labtech.

Country of origin: South Korea

Electrical data: 220 volts, 50 Hz.

MACHANIKAL SHAKER : this istrument is used to prepare uniform solution of liquor from cut-pieced
fabric. It shakes the solution at the rate of about 60 cycle per minute for 2 hours and results a uniform solution.

Specification:

MODEL:3005

Band Name: GFL

Country of origin: JARMANY.

.Color Fastness to Rubbing Tester:

This instrument is used to rub the sample piece against standard white fabric to measure the staining of color
with respect to grey scale.
Machine Specification:

Name: Electronic Crock Meter

Model: 680 MD

Brand: JAMES H HEAL

Origin: UK

Electrical data: 110-240.volts, 50 Hz.

4.1.5 ELECTRONIC BALANCE

Electronic Balance is used to measure weight, mainly for GSM.

 Fig.4.5: Image of an electronic balance

Specification:

Model: HZY-A200

Range: Max-200gm

Brand Name: HUAZHI

Readability: 0.001 gm

Country of origin: USA

PERSPIROMETER :

This is used to measure the color fastness to perspiration for both acid and alkaline medium.
Machine Specification:

Brand: JAMES H HEAL

Origin: UK

DO METER : Dissolved Oxygen(DO) Meter is mainly used to measure the amount of dissolved oxygen by the
micro-organism present in the liquor.

 PH METER: pH meter is used to measure the level of alkalinity or acidity of the solution.
  Model: Five easy plus

Country of origin: swizerland

Others: to execute the experiment smoothly, some more instruments were also used ,Those are listed
below:
.

Chemical used for denim washing

Different types of chemicals are being used in washing processes, their description is provided briefly :

 Anti-back staining agent: it heips to save the garments from the possibility of back-staining of color
during washing operation. It creates an emulsion which protects the white weft yarns, pocket and level
from being stained.
 Enzyme: Enzyme are protein substate which performs only specific works as
catalyst, enzyme can work in both neutral and acidic medium. Based on the
working medium enzyme can be divided into 2 catagories; neutral enzyme and
acidic enzyme.

 Bleaching agent: bleaching agents are oxidative substance which perform

oxidization of vat dyes and make the shade lighter. Mainly calcium hypo chloride
and potassium permanganate are hugely used for denim bleaching .

 Desizing agents: Desizing can be performed in 3 ways; by mechanical abrasion,

by chemical treatment and also by thermal process(heating). Anti-back staining
agents, caustic soda and desizing powder are common desizing chemicals for
denim washing.
 Pumic stone : we use pumic stone for abration purposes. Normaly pumic stone
size 3 to 5cm. Typically it is light/white color.

 Neutralizing agent: after bleaching/pp or oxidizing process, reducing agents are used as
neutralizing agent. Neutralizing reaction is nothing but a basic or acid based tritration reaction. Sodium
meta bi sulphate, h2o2, hypo, amino acids are common neutralizing agents.
 Tint: direct and reactive dyes are commonly used as tint for denim washing. Also common salt or
glubar salt are used during tinting to enhance tint exhaustion and tint leveling.
 Softening agent: cationic softener are commonly used for denim softening after final wash.
 Fixing agents: Cationic fixing agents are used to fix the tint by increasing the size and molecular weight
of tints thus tints become water insoluble and color fastness to wash and rubbing become enriched.
 pH controlling agents: To maintain the convenient pH of washing bath organic acids or soda ash is
used commonly
 Anti-creasing agent: Crease-Resist finish or "wash-and-wear" or "wrinkle-free" finishes are achieved by
the addition of a chemical resin finish that makes the fiber take on a quality similar to that of synthetic fibers.
1. Glass Rod: it is used to mix solution .

2 .Beaker: this is used to store liquor.

3.Bottle: this is used to store liquor.

4.Tear & Tensile Strength Tester: strength of tear and tensile is measured by this instrument.

Machine Specification:

Name: Tensile/Tearing Strength Tester

Model: M250-3CT

Brand: TESTOMETRIC

Origin: United Kingdom

5.Color Fastness to Rubbing Tester.

Machine Specification:

Name: Electronic Crock Meter

Model: 680 MD

Brand: JAMES HEAL

Origin: Germany
The colour fastness to rubbing was evaluated according to ISO 105-X12, Tests for colour fastness – Part X12: Colour
fastness to rubbing 23 . Two specimens, of each warp and weft direction measuring a minimum of 50 mm x 140 mm,
were cut from testing sample. The tests were made with both wet and dry rubbing cloths.

GSM Cutter: This instrument is used to cut the garment in circular shape whose diameter is 11.29 cm and are
is 100 square centimeter.

6.Grey Scale: this is used to measure the grading by comparing with sample.

7.Crocking meter: To the measure the rubbing & crocking of gmts ,we use crocking meter.

Garments washing is one of the most important finishing treatments applied on apparels which have vital
use to create special outlooks and improving the fashion. Technologically washing is one of the most
important fashion elements for clothing industry and production of washed garments depends on the
machine quality. In order to achieve an optimum effect of washing process, on the woven fabric in
different washing time, Enzyme Wash and then Silicone wash were carried out for cotton fabric. However,
there are some of the comments that when the garments have longer washing time, use of the chemical
on the washing procedure will affect the physical and mechanical performance. The aim of this study is to
determine the effects of industrial enzyme silicone wash combined with silicone wash. For this study
currently fashionable regular Non- denim (100% cotton with twill 3/1 weave construction) trouser was
chosen. The selected Non-denim trouser has been processed by enzyme and then silicone wash. In order
to evaluate the washing effects on Non-denim trouser, changes of fabric handle, fabric specification
(ends/inch, picks/inch, surface density, warp & weft yarn linear density), fabric strength has been
determined during and after was

Garments washing is one of the most important finishing treatments applied on apparels which have vital
use to create special outlooks and improving the fashion. Technologically washing is one of the most
important fashion elements for clothing industry and production of washed garments
Denim garments are looked at as a major trend setter by our youth. The spread of denim culture
all over the world brought with it a trend of fast changing fashions. One after another several
washes were introduced such as stone wash, acid wash, moon wash etc. Over the last decade,
India has probably seen the most dramatic and exciting changes in the washing of denim
garments. As per the denim garments export market, this high quality garment has superior
aesthetics and great value for price. In terms of the quality aspect, back staining plays a vital role
in improving the appearance of the denim garment.

Back staining: Back staining implies soiling of the weft thread and the pocket lining by detached
indigo or its reduced leuco form. Back staining mainly occurs during desizing or stone washing or
enzyme stone washing.

Back staining means a tendency of the released indigo dye to redeposit on the Surface of the
fibers in the literature as it is claimed that back staining is dependent on the pH and for the type
of enzyme. According to our results back Staining depends only indirectly on pH.

Introduction.

Garments washing is one of the most important finishing treatments applied on apparels which have vital
use to create special outlooks and improving the fashion. Technologically washing is one of the most
Denim garments
important fashion elements for clothing industry and production of washed garments.
are looked at as a major trend setter by our youth. The spread of denim culture all over the world
brought with it a trend of fast changing fashions

The current smartness & fashion of teenagers are totally depend on jeans items. They are too much addicted
to denim item because of durability, fashion & aesthetic look. So denim items are now so much popular in the
world. But this aesthetic look are given by denim washing process is very critical & lengthly. Different process
required different time & it also the last process of gmts before finishing. Sometimes for its lengthly process
rejection possibility is more. So if rejection is more then FOB will be more which is not profitable. Moreover,
for its lengthy process, require more water, chemical & time also which is non profitable & non friendly for
environment. Water is the natural & environment resource. In denim washing huge water are used which is
emitted as a waste water that destroy our soil fertaility & productivity. As a result denim items popularity is
hindered day by day. So producer of denim item & buyer are searching a process by which they can buy or
produce low price denim item which will be cost effective, energy effective & environment friendly.

OBJECT OF THIS THESIS:

Same quality by using less process, less water, less chemical & less time.

1. Saving of time
2. Reduction of cost

3.Production of environment friendly denim items.

4.Reduction of the water & chemical consumtion.

5.Reduce the process friction & save the gmts from rejection.

6.Evaluation of BOD & COD.

7.Evaluation with conventional process.

3.6TEAR STRENGTH The tear strength property of a fabric is its ability to resist a tearing
force . Tear strength is an important property for the durability of a pair of jeans. Since
the tear strength indicates of the strength of the yarn, this will therefor affect the jeans
durability . During the user phase, laundering of jeans will account for a large part of its
total wear . Tests made in previous studies have shown that the tear strength of jeans
will decrease after laundering, and that loss of durability and tear strength will proceed
with number of launderings. While evaluating possible differences between pre washed,
stone washed and enzyme washed jeans after 25 launderings, the strength loss was
found to be similar for all three. It was also found that in cases where softeners were
used during laundering, the decrease of tear strength was larger. The study could also
state that if the enzyme wash process is not carefully monitored, the fibre and fabric will
get decreased tear strength properties . Studies have examined how the tear strength is
affected by laundering and the elastane content of the fabric . There was a tendency of
elastane containing fabrics increasing their tear strength after a few washes.

TEAR STRENGTH:

Tear strength was tested with the Elmendorf method, the ISO 13937-1, Tear properties of fabrics – Part 1:
Determination of tear force using ballistic pendulum method 21 . Specimens were randomly taken form the garment
and torn in the testing apparatus. The mean tear force across warp and weft were calculated. Test load D was used
during the tests.

COLOUR FASTNESS TO RUBBING:

ENZYME WASHING Enzyme wash is a method when garments are washed in a cellulase-based liquid instead of being
washed with stones. The cellulase enzymes are abrading the surface of the cotton fibre. During strict control, damage on
the fibres’ strength and highlights on seam can be resisted. The same hand can be achieved with enzyme washing as
with stone washing, but in a microscopic level, this process is more merciful towards the fibres . There are four kinds of
enzymes for washing: 21 • Amylase • Cellulase • Laccase • Catalase Cellulase enzymes are a mix of enzymes that
depolymerise cellulose into glucose and other lower molecular. In fabric made of cellulose fibres, the cellulase enzymes
are by hydrolyze removing the fibres of the surface, even the ones who holds dye . The neutral enzymes gives less back
staining and works best with pH value between 6,0- 8,0 and shows best activity at 55° C. Acid cellulose enzymes works
best in the pHrange of 4,5-5,5 and have optimum activity at 50° C. Enzymes will attack a specific molecular group. For
denim washing, mainly three types of enzymes are being used. That is neutral, acid and bio polishing enzymes. The
process has to be strictly controlled because of the enzymes sensitivity to temperature, time and pH. These three
parameters highly affect the result and too big variations can cause damage on the fabric . After finishing an enzyme
wash, a washing process that rinses the garment has to be done, to make sure there is no enzyme residue left. This
process can be made in different ways and it will also give the garment a better appearance .

METHODOLOGY

Raw materials and equipments used:

Raw Material Description:
Garments type: Denim Long Pant
Composition: 100% cotton
Fabric Specification:
Fabric Type: 3/1 Right Hand Twill (RHT)
EPI: 72
PPI:48
GSM: 368 gm/sq. meter or 10.86 oz/sq. yard

Conventional washing method:

In conventional washing method, there was more steps , more water ,chemical and energy consumption than
to sustainable process-skipped washing way. The procedure of conventional washing process is as following:
 process sequence:desize+enzyme+bleach1&2+neutral1&2+tinting+fixing+softening+pH control
total garments weight: 60 Kg
Water Temp Time
Steps Process PH Chemicals Doges LR
(L) (°C) (Min)
1 Desize 600 60 20 ANTICREASE 300 ml 1:10
ANTI-BACK STAINING AGENT 1000gm
STONE 100kg
3 RINSE -2 1200 30 5 1:10
4 ENZYME 600 40 45 CELLULASE ENZYME 800ml 1:10
ANTI-BACK STAINING AGENT 1200 ml
STONE 100kg
6 RINSE -2 1200 30 5 1:10

STABLE BLEACHING
7 BLEACH-1 700 50 15 5kg 1:11
POWDER(KCI)
9 RINSE-2 1200 30 5 1:10
STABLE BLEACHING
10 BLEACH-2 700 50 10 4kg 1:11
POWDER(KCI)
12 RINSE-2 1200 30 5 1:10
13 NEUTRAL 600 50 10 NEUTRALIZING ACENT 1kg 1:10
ANTI-BACK STAINING AGENT 800 ml
15 RINSE-2 1200 30 5 1:10
P.P SPRAY POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE 15 gm/l
PHOSPHORIC ACID 2 gm/l
16 NEUTRAL 600 50 5 NEUTRALIZING ACENT 1.5kg 1:10
ANTI-BACK STAINING AGENT 300 ml
18 RINSE-2 1200 30 5 1:10
19 TINT 500 50 5 DIRECT DYE (ORANGE) 1gm 1:9
 DIRECT DYE (RED) 350ml
GLAUBER SALT 1 Kg
20 RINSE-1 600 30 3 1:10
21 FIXING 500 40 10 FIXING AGENT 500 ml 1:9
22 RINSE-1 600 30 3 1:10
1200
23 SOFTNER 500 30 3 SOFTENER 1:7
gm
24 pH control 500 30 5 3 ORGANIC ACID 200 ml 1:9

In conventional system at first the garments was desized, then 2 rinse wash was applied, then cellulase
enzymatic treatment was done following 2 rinse wash. Based on required shade of standard, 2 times bleaching
was performed, next to it 2 neutralizing treatment was executed by using neutralizing agents. To match
required shade and technical properties of experimented garments tinting, fixing , softening, pH controlling
treatments were performed in separate bath. After desize, enzyme, bleach, neutral applied 2 rinse & after
tinting, fixing used 1 rinse.
Sustainable washing process:
In sustainable washing process process, steps was reduced thus water,chemical ,time consumption was also
reduced. The process is as following;

process sequence: enzyme+bleach1&2+neutral1&2+ tinting +fixing,softening ,pH control

total garments weight: 60 Kg

Step Water Temp Time

Process PH Chemicals Doges LR
s (L) (°C) (Min)

ANTICREASE 300 ml
1 ENZYME 600 40 55 CELLULASE ENZYME 800ml 1:10
ANTI-BACK STAINING AGENT 1200 ml
STONE 100kg
2 RINSE -1 600 30 3 1:10
STABLE BLEACHING
3 BLEACH-1 700 50 15 5kg 1:11
POWDER(KCI)

STABLE BLEACHING
5 BLEACH-2 700 50 10 4kg 1:11
POWDER(KCI)
6 RINSE-1 600 30 3 1:10
7 NEUTRAL 600 50 10 NEUTRALIZING AGENT 1kg 1:10
ANTI-BACK STAINING AGENT 800 ml
8 RINSE-1 600 30 3 1:10

P.P SPRAY
9 NEUTRAL 600 50 5 NEUTRALIZING AGENT 1.5kg 1:10
ANTI-BACK STAINING AGENT 300 ml
11 RINSE-2 1200 30 5 1:10
12 TINT 500 50 5 DIRECT DYE (ORANGE) 1gm 1:09
DIRECT DYE (RED) 350ml
GLAUBER SALT 1 Kg
13 RINSE-1 600 30 3 1:10
 14 FIXING+ 500 40 10+3+3 FIXING AGENT 500 ml 1:09
SOFTENING
SOFTENER 1200 ml
+Ph
CONTROL ORGANIC ACID 200 ml

In sustainable washing system at first cellulase enzymatic treatment was done following 1 rinse wash by
skipping desize . Based on required shade of standard, 2 times bleaching was performed, next to it 2
neutralizing treatment was executed by using neutralizing agents. To match required shade tinting was
performed but ,fixing , softening, pH controlling treatments were performed in same bath. Here we applied 1
rinse after enzyme,bleach, 1st neutral & tint.

Comparison

In conventional process, there is more steps like desize which has been skipped in sustainable process. On the
other hand, in conventional process fixing, softening and pH control was executed in separate bath but in
sustainable process , all of these were combined in a single bath. The amount of water , chemical ,time and
cost are saved in sustainable bath since steps have been skipped . In sustainable washing process , after direct
anzymatic treatment, thus 2 rinse washing steps was also skipped which was done in conventional process.
After enzyme treatment only 1 rinse was applied in lue of 2 rinse . In the same way 3 rinse wash was skipped
sequentially after 1st bleaching process , 2nd bleaching process and 1st neutralizing treatment. So, finally, 1
desizing step and 7 rinse washing steps were skipped in sustainable washing process which were common
steps in conventional washing process.
 Testing methods

Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD):

chemical oxygen demand (COD) test is commonly used to indirectly measure the amount of organic
compounds in water. Most applications of COD determine the amount of organic pollutants found in surface
water (e.g. lakes and rivers) or wastewater, making COD a useful measure of water quality. It is expressed in
milligrams per liter (mg/L), which indicates the mass of oxygen consumed per liter of solution
Most organic matter are completely oxidized by boiling of chromic acid & H2SO4 to produce carbondioxide &
water.

Hence measured quantity of effluent sample and distilled water is reflaxed separately with excess amount of
potassium di chromate(k2Cr2o7) in both solution are measured by titration with ferrous ammonium sulphate
using ferrion indicator.The difference two readily will give COD.

PROCEDURE:

1.Take 20 ml efflulent sample 250 ml reflex flask.

2.Add 5gm copper sulphate as catalyst

3.Add 30ml sulphuric acid

4.10ml 0.25N potassium dichromate(k2Cr2O7)

5.Reflux for 2 hrs.

6.Cool & add 80ml distilled water.

7.Add 2-3 drops ferrous indicator and titrate against 0.1N Ferrous ammonium sulphate(cool change bluish
green→wine red).

8.Take reading as V1.

9.Repeat experiment with pure distilled water and 2nd reding as V2.

10.COD of effluent sample is V2-V1.(The blanks experiment takes care of any thermal decomposition of
potassium dichromate(K2Cr207).

Biochemical oxygen demand (BOD):

Biochemical oxygen demand (BOD) is the amount of dissolved oxygen needed (i. e., demanded) by aerobic
biological organisms to break down organic material present in a given water sample at certain temperature over a
specific time period. The BOD value is most commonly expressed in milligrams of oxygen consumed per litre of
sample during 5 days of incubation at 20 °C and is often used as a surrogate of the degree of organic pollution of
water.

Steps of measuring BOD:

1. At first liquor is collected in a bottle

2. 95 ml of liquor is taken in a cylinder and 5 ml distilled water is added

3.then 100 ml solution is taken in a beaker and shaked to mix it properly.

4. by using DO meter Dissolved Oxigen -1 (DO-1) reading is taken.

5.the solution is stored in bottle in standard temperature (20’C) for 5 days.

6. after 5 days DO-2 is measured again.

7. from the result of DO-1 & DO-2 ,the value of BOD is measured . the difference of DO-1 and DO-2 is devided by
the volume of solute (0.05 L) to measure BOD value.

COLOR FASTNESS TO PERSPERITION(acid & alkaline medium) : To measure the persperition here followed
ISO-105-E04 method. Persperition is measured in two medium, alkali & acidic medium. In acid medium
required solution are-Sodium chloride -5 g/l, L-Histidin Monohydro chloride-0.5 g/l, Di-sodium hydrogen ortho
phosphate dihydrate-2.2 g/l & rest are distilled water.

Sample size--4*10 cm,

Multifibre size--4*10 cm.

Solution --1:50

At first attatch the sample & multifibre by sewing & dissolved this into solution at Ph-5.5 for 30 min .Removing
the extra water,set up on perspirometer with poly acrylic plate & use pressure bar.Then set up at 37±2 °C for 4
hrs in woven m/c then dry at 60 °C. Then grading the color change & color staining with multifibre.

For alkali medium required solution are-

Sodium chloride-5 g/l, L-Histidin monohydro chloride-0.5 g/l, Sodium di-hydrogen ortho-phosphate di-
hydrate-2.5 g/l & rest are distilled water. Here controlled pH=8.

Sample size--4*10 cm,

Multifibre size--4*10 cm.

Solution --1:50

At first attatch the sample & multifibre by sewing & dissolved this into solution at Ph-8 for 30 min .Removing
the extra water,set up on perspirometer with poly acrylic plate & use pressure bar.Then set up at 37±2 °C for 4
hrs in woven m/c then dry at 60 °C. Then grading the color change & color staining with multifibre.

COLOR FASTNESS TO WATER: According to method-ISO-105-E01 color fastness to water was measured. At
frist Attach the sample with multifibre & dissolved in distilled water at room temperature for 30 min. Remove
extra water set up in perspirometer with poly acrylic plate & press with pressure bar.Then set up at 37±2 °C
for 4hrs in woven m/c then dry at 60°C. Then grading the color fastness to water.

Sample size- 4*10 cm

Multifibre size-4*10 cm

Distilled water-1:50

COLOR FASTNESS TO WASH: The colour fastness to wash was evaluated according to ISO 105-C06.Here required
solution are ECE reference detergent B=4 g/l , Sodium perborate-1 g/l & rest are distilled water. Then grading
the color fastness to wash..

Sample size- 4*10 cm

Multifibre size-4*10 cm

Solution ratio: 1:50

Put the sample in steal biker with steal ball 10pcs at 40°C for 30 min .Here gyro wash m/c is used. Then rinse
with normal water & dry at 60 °C.

COLOR FASTNESS TO RUBBING:

The colour fastness to rubbing was evaluated according to ISO 105-X12 . Color fastness to rubbing are measure in
two condition .

1.Dry rubbing

2.Wet rubbing

Required instrument-

Crock meter.

Sample size-more than 10.4 cm

Rubbing cloth-5*5 cm

Rubbing cycle-10±1/10sec.

TEARING STRENGTH TESTING:

Tear strength was evaluated according to ISO ASTM-D2261. Universal testing machine (UTM) was used for
the measurement of various mechanical properties (Tensile strength, Tensile modulus, Elongation-at-break,
Bending strength, Bending modulus etc.) of the composite. The load range, speed, measuring unit, gauge length
etc. can be selected over a wide range. A computer is compiled to the instrument with relevant software. There
is a fixed jaw and a movable jaw. The sample is inserted within the jaws and pressure is applied by an input
system. The testing results are obtained from the output system.

M/C name: Universal strength tester,

m/c speed=300 mm/min

sample size=7.5*20 cm.

Standard tearing to warp=4.5 lbs

Standard tearing to weft=4 lbs

TENSILE STRENGTH TESTING:

The specimen for tensile strength measurement was prepared according to ASTM-D5034 standard . Crosshead speed
of 10 mm/min and gauge length of 50 mm were maintained. The load was continuously applied to the sample till it is
fractured. The loads and the corresponding extensions were recorded by the computer.

SAMPLE SIZE=10*15 cm.

Set up the sample between jaw & check the data from monitor.

Standard tensile strength for

Warp=60 lbs

Weft=50 lbs.

PH TESTING: Here ph is measured according to metod:ISO-3107.Liquior is prepared by adding 0.1M KCI in 1l

distilled water. 100 ml of this solution take into the biker & add sample.Set the biker on shaker & run 2 hrs.
After 2hrs measure the ph of sample with ph meter.

Requirement instruments,

1.Mechanical shaker

2.Ph meter

Sample weight=2 gm (size 0.5 mm).

Determination of weight loss % :

Weight loss % in fabric was calculated according to ASTM D3776.Usually,it was calculated from the difference of
unwashed and washed sample weight at the same moisture content and then it was measured in percentage.Sample
was performed in oven dryer at 105°c for 30 minutes in case of both unwashed and washed sample.

Weight loss=(Wt of sample before wash – Wt of sample after wash )x 100 / Wt of sample before wash.

EPI & PPI determination:

We count EPI & PPI in case of different wshed process (wet,dry & modern process) and unwashed (grey fabric)
condition.At first 1*1 inch square areas of sample fabric is marked.Then a counter glass is taken and put on the marked
place of the fabric. Now count the number of ends at three times.As a result we get EPI. Similarly,PPI is also counted.

COST ANALYSIS

Cost of Conventional process

Process Name Water Necessary Doses Amount Rate Cost

Used Chemicals (g/l) (in Kg) (Tk/Kg) (Taka)
Desize 600 Anti- 2 1.2 120 144
backstaining
agent

Anti- 0.5 0.3 60 18

creasing
agent
100 kg 17.8 1780
Stone
Enzyme 600 Cellulase 1.3 0.8 475 380
Enzyme

Anti-
backstaining 2 1.2 120 144
agent

Stone
SAME

Bleach 1400 35% 12.9 9 43 387

Ca(OCl)2
Neutral(2Times) 1200 Sodium 4.2 2.5 66 165
Meta Bi-
sulphite
Tinting 500 Direct Dye 0.015 2450 36.75
Fixing 500 Fixing Agent 1 0.5 450 225
Softening 500 Softener 1 0.5 150 75
pH Controlling 500 Organic Acid 0.6 0.3 245 73.5
RINSING Water 8400
Used
(14x600)
Total WATER 14200 0.1
USED tk/ltr
Total Cost 6617.75
Cost of Sustainable Process:

Process Water Used Necessary Doses Amount Rate Cost

Name Chemicals (g/l) (in Kg) (Tk/Kg) (Taka)
Enzyme 600 Cellulase 1.3 0.8 475 380
Enzyme

Anti-
backstainin 2 1.2 120 144
g agent

Stone 17.8 1780

100 kg
Cytric acid
0.33 0.2 115 23

Bleach 1400 35% 12.9 9 43 387

Ca(OCl)2
Neutral 1200(2Times) Sodium 4.2 2.5 66 165
Meta Bi-
sulphite
Tinting 500 Direct Dye 0.015 2450 36.75
Fixing+ Fixing Agent 1 0.5 450 225

Softening+ 500 Softener 1 0.5 150 75

pH Organic Acid 0.6 0.3 245 73.5

Controling
RINSING 3600(6X600)
WATER
USED
Total 7800 0.1
Water tk/ltr
Used
TOTAL 4149.25
COST
From the study, it’s clear that sustainable process requires less water, less chemicals, less cost than to
conventional washing process. For instance, where conventional process requires 4838.25 taka for production
of 1 lot reversely the sustainable process requires 4149.25 taka . In sustainable process, the cost of desizing
chemicals has been reduced and also the cost of water .

REFERENCES:

1.L. Heikinheimo ‘Treating Denim Fabrics with Trichoderma Reesei Cellulases’,SAGE journals, volume: 26

2. Arkady P. Sinitsyn, ‘Application of microassays for investigation of cellulase abrasive activity and backstaining’, Journal
of Bio-technology, volume:89, page: 233-238

3.Wickramasinghe, and T.; Wickramasinghe “Process improvement in denim washing” ,Masters of Science in
Textiles & Clothing Management, University of Moratuwa, volume: 22

4.. A Sadeghian Maryan and M Montazer ‘ One pot denim washing and finishing using organo-montmorillonite:
introducing nano mineral washing and finishing” ,Textiles Research Journals, January 2015

5.Tyndall, R. Michael “Improving the Softness and Surface Appearance of Cotton Fabrics and Garments by
Treatment with Cellulase Enzymes” ,Textile Chemist & Colorist, June 92,volume:24, page:23-26

6. Md Mashuir Rahman Khan and Md Ibrahim H Mondal,’physico-Mechanical Properties of Finished Denim

Garment by Stone-Bleach Treatment’,Journal of Chemical Engineering, Volume:28, 2013

7.Tullia Jack* “laundry habits and resource consumption, to build a picture of the expectations and actions surrounding
the performance of cleanliness in everyday life”,International Journal of Consumer Studies, 29 August, 2013

8.. Upama Nasrin Haq¹ and Md. Mashiur Rahman Khan “TECHNOLOGY OF ACID WASH ON WOVEN DENIM APPAREL WITH DAMP
PUMICE STONE”, International Journal of Science, Environment & Technology, Volume: 6, 2014, page:90-95

9. Ali Sadeghian Maryan and Majid Montazer ,“ A cleaner production of denim garment using one step treatment with
amylase/cellulase/laccase”,Journal of Clearer Production, Volume:57 ,15 Oct, 2013, page:320-326

10. Chi-wai Kan, “CO2 laser treatment as a clean process for treating denim fabric.”,Dental Material Journals, volume:29,
May29,2013, page:559-565
11.Michesl eropen v. ‘Process for combined desizing and “stone-washing” of dyed denim “,Dental Material
Journals, volume:29, May29,2013, page:559-565

12. J.V Maryan , ‘Sustainable production of denim garment using one step treatment with laccase”, Journals of
Reinforcement Plastic & Composites, 2014

13. Md Zullhash Uddin, “sustainable washing for denim garments by Enzymatic Treatment”,Journals of Chemical
Engineering, Volume:27, 2012

14, Md.ibrahim “effect of bleach wash on physical and mechanical properties of denim garments”,International
Conference on Mechanical Engineering,18-20 dec, 2011

15.Sumon mir “evaluation of mechanical properties of denim garments after enzymatic Bio-washing”,Textiles Research
Journal, 2012
16.MD.Saiful islam,
17,all kinds of chemicals,source>denimach washing ltd.
18.www.google scholar.com

19. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Izod_impact_strength_te
Result & Discussions:

Table :

Process Conventional process Escaped process

Properties Tear Tensile Tear Tensile

direction

Warp 9.8(17) 129.3(182.3) 10 129.4

Weft 6.3(8.2) 55(78.3) 6.2 55.8

Note: ( ) indicate unwash tear tensile.

Colorfastness to rubbing

Condition / Process Conventional escaped

Dry 4—5 4—5

Wet 2 2

GSM CALIBRATION

Condition / Process Conventional escaped

Unwash 368 368

Wash 416
CF to water

unit of measure / Process Conventional escaped

Acetate 4 4

Cotton 4—5 4—5

Nylon 4 4

Polyester 4—5 4—5

Acrylic 4—5 4—5

Wool 4 4

CF to Perspiration ( Alkaline)

unit of measure / Process Conventional escaped

Acetate 4 4

Cotton 4—5 4—5

Nylon 4—5 4

Polyester 4—5 4—5

Acrylic 4—5 4—5

Wool 4 4—5

CF to Perspiration ( Acid)
 unit of measure / Process Conventional escaped

Acetate 4 4

Cotton 4—5 4—5

Nylon 4 4

Polyester 4—5 4—5

Acrylic 4—5 4—5

Wool 4 4—5

Color fastness to wash

unit of measure / Process Conventional escaped

Acetate 3.5 3.5

Cotton 4 4

Nylon 3.5 3.5

Polyester 4 4—5

Acrylic 4—5 4—5

Wool 4—5 4—5

 Conventional escaped

Process PH BOD COD Process PH BOD COD

(PPM) (PPM) (PPM) (PPM)

Desize 8.8 76 212

Enzyme 8.4 70 196 Direct 7.3 30 75

Table
Enzyme
Desize+Enzym 8.7 84 235
e

Tinting 7.7 22 61 Tinting 7.2 21 59

Fixing 8.6 26 72

Softener 7.6 42 117 Fixing 6.7 41 110

+Softener+
PH control 7.3 66 184 PH control
T+F+S+PH 8.9 44 123